MILAN FASHION WEEK Spring 2015 Trend Report
September 17th-21st, 2014
Written by Alexa Carlson Fashion Writers: Emma Leuman Marissa Monett
Edtited by: Paige Schultz, Fashion Editor Marissa Monett, Fashion Editorial Assistant
a letter from the editor Each season, the move to Milan signals a turning point in fashion month. Deviating from the mainstream lines of New York and the edgier, street style centric collections of London, Milan’s designs exude power, romance, luxury and glamour. Well, that is, they did until this season. Sticking with the trend of commercialism that was seen on the runways of London and New York, the majority of looks in Milan lacked the typical allure that distinguishes them from those of the other fashion capitols. Items were wearable, beautiful, and of high-quality, but were they jarring, thought-provoking and worthy of their high-fashion label? I don’t have an answer; rather all I have are questions. While I appreciate fashion’s recent efforts to cater to our generation’s consumer, I can’t help but wonder if the industry is making a sacrifice. In the midst of the same trends that I’ve seen season after season, I find myself waiting for something that will make me swoon; a design that will sweep me off my feet and take me back to the days of fantasy fashion that once made runway so difficult to relate to. After all, how inspiring and novel is an ensemble if it can transcend through more than one realm? Milan Fashion Week may be over, but I’m certainly not over it. Paige, Fashion Editor
September 17th DAY ONE By Emma Leuman Fashion has the intriguing ability to capture a particular image. Designers on Day One of MFW played with this concept, using certain fabrics and silhouettes to evoke a particular persona. Suede has a habit of exuding an explorative, freespirited attitude. Although not durable or even water resistant, this textile is reminiscent of the outdoors. Designers played with this association through different iterations of vests and dresses in natural shades of the fabric. At Alberta Ferretti, suede was given a more traditional feel with fringe accents and embellishments. Meanwhile, at Gucci, bold hues were used to give this classic an update. Red and jade suede were tied into tunics and plunge dresses, adding sex appeal of the soft material. In another practice of association, the street style trend of caped jackets draped over the shoulders is associated with a sort of effortless power. Designers emulated this connotation but in new form, adding the strong-shouldered silhouette to gowns and tops alike. Angelos Bratis in particular captured this look, with fluttery “cape sleeves� on many of his ensembles. Alberta Ferretti (photo from Style.com)
Top: Alberta Ferretti; Bottom: Gucci, Angelos Bratis, Gucci (photos from Style.com)
September 18th DAY TWO By Marissa Monett Day Two of MFW exhibited the runways of several respected Italian fashion houses, each in sync with inspiration from the past as they pulled from different eras and juxtaposed vintage patterns with modern forms.. Costume National and Fendi took a step back in time with looks reminiscent of the 70s. Costume National stressed the decade’s tailored, suede jackets accented by distinct stitching and neck scarves while subtly hinting at the era of disco with circle belt buckles and plunging necklines. Fendi took a less literal approach, embracing the time through variations of the mini skirt. With a repeating orchid pattern, bright colors and geometrical fabric-insets, Fendi stood out from the crowd with a youthful collection. Prada’s vision stemmed from a distant past of antiquity and quality. Mixing tall socks in a variety of dull-hued patterns with Mary Jane clogs, Prada alluded to images long ago. The baroque patterns and traditional knee-length jackets and skirts were definitely of a much more mature look as they were constructed of an excellence that no one could dismiss. Costume National (photo from Style.com)
Top: Costume National, Prada, Costume National; Bottom: Fendi (photos from Style.com)
September 19th DAY THREE By Marissa Monett On Day Three of MFW, designers emulated the heritage of Italian fashion. A city of style, quality and allure, Milan held its reputation for strong, glamorous looks. From head to toe, ensembles at Ermanno Scervino were a fusion of sophistication and sex appeal. Looks began with an elegantly imperfect topknot, and moved down into tight, but structured, kneelength dresses of both chest-exposing strapless and shoulder-defining sleeveless constructions. Dress coats caped some of the looks, adding to their feminine charm with impeccably embellished silver beads and lace. Les Copains modernized the idea of traditional sophistication by adding a tropical leaf pattern to some designs and using an earthy color palette. With olives, oranges and tans giving dresses a much more casual look, Les Copains introduced refinement through either clean, shift shapes or more elegant, hip-hugging floor skirts. Sportmax tied the normcore movement to sophisticated style, reproducing classic silhouettes with unpretentious features like knits, unfinished hemlines and flats. Their most elegant ensembles brought a fur-like, jaguar-printed jacket to pencil midi skirts and a tea-length dress. Les Copains (photo from Style.com)
Top: Les Copains, Sportmax, Les Copains; Bottom: Ermanno Scervino (photos from Style.com)
September 20th DAY FOUR By Emma Leuman Year after year, Italian designers seem to polarize themselves from one another with creations that lead toward either an ultra-sexy or minimalistic aesthetic. Day Four of MFW was no exception. Collections didn’t seem reminiscent of each other, but rather on opposite ends of a spectrum. On one end were designers who went for the overtly sensual look. Both Emilio Pucci and Roberto Cavalli incorporated bold prints and textures into their collections, surely to draw in the confident, attention-seeking customer. Roberto Cavalli stuck to earth tones and leather in his presentation, with animal print and crocheted textiles featured, as well. Emilio Pucci went in the other direction, working with bright sunset colors and tye-dye prints. Pucci’s gowns flowed gorgeously down the runway, and, come spring, celebrities will surely embrace these looks. Steering away from this look, Jil Sander and Bottega Veneta went for a more toned-down version of typical menswear-inspired collections. Gone were the structured blazers and tuxedo pants. Instead, menswear staples were refreshed with waisted blazers in soft colors and men’s short sleeve dress shirts tucked into skirts. Roberto Cavalli (photo from Style.com)
Top: Emilio Pucci, Roberto Cavalli; Bottom: Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta (photos from Style.com)
September 21st DAY FIVE
By Alexa Carlson Sheer fabrics have remained on-trend for more than a few seasons now, and they didn’t show any sign of retreating on the Milan catwalks Sunday. Dolce & Gabbana showed beautifully embroidered sheer midi and maxi length dresses with simple black bralettes and high-waist briefs underneath. Even more elegant were the models at Luisa Beccaria, who donned sheer overlays complementing silky, pastel bodysuits underneath floral, embellished maxi dresses. MSGM opted for a little bit more coverage as they sent models down the runway wearing floral-embellished frocks overlain with depth-enhancing, sheer black tulle. Floral prints, a pattern stereotypical to the season, were another trend spotted, though they were hardly what anyone expected. Dolce & Gabbana’s matador-themed runway featured bold, embroidered carnations on red leather and sheer mesh skirts, and large flowers made from raffia gave texture to the looks on Marni’s runway. These looks gave a muchneeded twist to spring’s most classic print, giving consumers another reason to embrace floral for an additional season. Dolce & Gabbana (photo from Style.com)
Top: Dolce & Gabbana; Bottom: Luisa Beccaria, Marni, MSGM (photos from Style.com)
MODA