NEW YORK
FASHION WEEK Fall 2015 Trend Report
February 12th-19th, 2015
Written by Fashion Writers:
Edtited by:
Alexa Carlson Victoria Fok Emma Leuman Alyssa Sage Phebe Myers
Paige Schultz, Fashion Editor Marissa Monett, Fashion Editorial Assistant
a letter from the editor As observers of New York Fashion Week from afar, the logic of runway collections often fades into the abyss instilled by physical distance and stylistic gaps. Though iterated to death, ready-to-wear’s reputation for presenting inaccessible collections to the everyday wearer caused a divide between the industry and the consumer for years. Perhaps in an effort to erase this discrepancy, Spring 2015 Fashion Month showcased mainstream, and somewhat lackluster designs. Fall 2015 NYFW took a similar approach by offering designs more wearable than those of seasons past. Fortunately practicality was manipulated in a more strategic manner, allowing the creatives’ artistry behind each line to become the focus, as opposed to the sacrifice of designers’ autumn collections. With this in mind, the fashion industry, archetypally following suit with fall’s innate charm, appears to be on the verge of a fresh start. Leaving the rude awakening of spring collections in the dust along with the era of unattainable ensembles, the fall approach to fashion is creative and consumer-friendly with designs that serve purposes to clothe and inspire. From luscious dark hues and luxurious fusions of fur, to intricate embellishments and exciting injections of fringe, fall 2015 collections satiated autumn style cravings in ways that bridged stylistic divides. Though several states still stand between New York fashion and our humble Wisconsin abode, several looks possess utility that looks of previous seasons lacked. Flattering silhouettes, layerable separates and sub-zero equipped outerwear transformed “runway” to reality, with visions of ensembles that could last a Wisconsinite long after the brisk days of autumn are gone. Of course there will always be collections that never quite emerge from the abyss. Perhaps Christian Siriano’s fuzzy stilettos aren’t quite your style or Alexander Wang’s 50 Shades of Grey-esque designs are a little too provocative for your liking. Such is the consequence of the push-pull nature of the industry’s fantasy vs. reality dichotomy. Yet, these collections help provide balance as consumers navigate the fine line that bridges the runway and the everyday. Without either consumer needs will not be met, causing them to fall into an abyss of disorientation from too much fantasy or mundanity from creative thirsts unquenched. In that sense, Fall 2015 NYFW may not have closed the gap completely, but it has certainly positioned us in a way that makes fashion once far and away seem a little less beyond our reach.
Paige, Fashion Editor
February 12th DAY ONE By Alexa Carlson Day One of New York Fashion Week started off strong, both in demeanor and design. Taking full advantage of their first day status, designers sent powerful looks that stood no chance of fading into the week’s countless collections. Coach and BCBG Max Azria dominated the day with impressive looks exuding cool-girl confidence and undone edge. Coach’s show was filled with phenomenal outerwear pieces. Tough black leather layered over warm caramel shearling fur allowed for a luxurious juxtaposition of casualness and edge. Silk scarves with pretty calico patterns perfectly accessorized the combination. Fur also made an appearance in BCBG Max Azria’s collection. Focussing on details, the texture accompanied intricate embroidery and quilted textiles on slightly oversized coats over knit turtlenecks. Alongside this autumn look, fringe added a free-spirited air. White and black leather trimming decorated 70s style frocks while a combination of black, white and maroon fringe was used to accent skirts and dresses.
BCBG Max Azria (photo from Style.com)
The thread of cool-girl chic translated to other runways like Nicholas K and Timo Weiland in the form of borrowedfrom-the-boys pinstripes. Nicholas K’s wrap was the epitome of effortless cool. The wrap, edged in leather, was worn with a matching draped pinstripe skirt, black pointed-toe heels, mesh ankle socks and round, sepiatoned glasses. Each element worked together to create a strong runway look, allowing Day One of NYFW to confidently end on a high note.
Top: BCBG Max Azria, Timo Weiland, BCBG Max Azria; Bottom: Coach, Nicholas K, Coach (photos from Style.com)
February 13th DAY TWO
By Alexa Carlson Day Two of NYFW introduced a fresh dose of wearable separates, frocks and maxis in traditional autumn hues. Rich, deep shades stood out in many of the collections with army green and various shades of maroon, plum, orange and cobalt blue commanding attention at several shows. Monique Lhuillier made floral accents into a fall staple, featuring a mix of darker colors like plum, bordeaux and gray. Jason Wu’s army green was especially notable, making an appearance in the collection’s structured coats and dyed fur linings. Bold color schemes complemented the 70s vibes of other collections, as well. Rebecca Minkoff’s blanketlike poncho was eye-catching in a crimson, peach and teal motif, while Zimmerman’s orange turtleneck with teardrop cut-outs proved to be a highlight of the collection. Injections of lighter hues brightened up looks at both shows, with representations of cream-colored pieces to balance heavier pigments. A Detacher’s baggy, cable knit pants deserve a special recognition. Though the “sweater pants” were unconventional, the styling associated with the looks made for an entertaining and memorable show. Jason Wu (photo from Style.com)
Top: Jason Wu; Bottom: Rebecca Minkoff, A Detacher, Monique Lhuillier (photos from Style.com)
February 14th DAY THREE By Phebe Myers NYFW and Valentine’s Day collided to create one of the most hard-core collections in recent history, namely, Alexander Wang’s all black and studded heavy-metal looks. The head of Balenciaga, and his own eponymous cult brand, Wang showed a deep appreciation for the darkest of hues, with models rocking wet hair, heavy combat boots and leather. Always an arbiter of taste, Wang also picked up on a key trend for fall 2015: sheer. Sheer gowns popped up on all of the runways, from Mara Hoffman’s elegant black sheer dress with a brightly colored fuzzy bottom, to Suno’s see-through/floral combination. Wang himself showed a nude sheer dress, with a black harness belt to toughen up the material’s softness. The metallic trend has resurfaced for a few seasons now, being shown by in colorful hues at Burberry and Christopher Kane in recent memory, and shiny fabrics are here to stay, as Project Runway winner Christian Siriano, Misha Nonoo and Mara Hoffman all demonstrated. Siriano and Hoffman showed flashy gold ensembles, sticking with another notable trend - the two-piece set - to create head-to-toe metallic looks. Nonoo created a gorgeous silver blazer dress, encapsulating the trend perfectly with is impeccable fit. Few trends have created as much of a stir as Phoebe Philo’s fuzzy birkenstocks at Celine a few years back. The highly acclaimed designer seemed to place fashion at a divide into those who loved the shoes and those who hated them. Evidently love won the battle, as furry-lined heels and flats made appearances at both Tibi and Christian Siriano. Dichotomies aside, Day Three of fashion week concluded strongly with exciting, attention-grabbing looks that kept fashionites on the edge of their seats. Christian Siriano (photo from Style.com)
Top: Suno, Christian Siriano, Alexander Wang; Bottom: Alexander Wang, Mara Hoffman, Misha Nonoo (photos from Style.com)
February 15th DAY FOUR By Victoria Fok Day Four of NYFW featured some of fashion’s brightest stars. Prabal Gurung showed a beautiful collection featuring soft grey, tan and buttery cream hues contrasted with black, white and bright orange. Natural-faced models with slicked back hair strutted down the runway wearing slinky ensembles featuring an array of details including high slits, beaded designs, chunky furs, and geometric patterns. Feminine silhouettes were a common trend. Designed with the theme of seduction, Diane von Furstenberg sent models down the runway in flirty dresses and slim pinstripe suits in celebration of female power. From a fitted blue power suit to a sheer low-cut lace gown, Furstenberg showed designs that combined femininity with confidence and strength. Of course Furstenberg’s wrap silhouette made an appearance on the runway as well, with Kendall Jenner opening the show in a simple, white version. Another must-see show was Victoria Beckham’s. Beckham took the collection back to where it all started with sexy dresses featured in well-structured designs. Oversized sweaters and coats paired with slinky, beautifully draped fabrics and asymmetrical hemlines introduced a classic yet strong juxtaposition throughout the collection. As a whole, the collection was distinct and flattering, with slim-fitting silhouettes and unique manipulations of architecture allowing it to differentiate itself well from other Day Four fashion week contenders. Prabul Gurung (photo from Style.com)
Top: Victoria Beckham, Prabal Gurung, Victoria Beckham; Bottom: Diane von Fustenberg, Prabal Gurung, Diane von Fustenberg(photos from Style.com)
February 16th DAY FIVE
By Victoria Fok The fifth day of NYFW featured red carpet standards Carolina Herrera and Reem Acra. Herrera’s collection showed a mix of day and evening wear, featuring tweed and wool dresses, fur-trimmed coats, and beautiful gowns fit for elegant galas and red carpet events. At Reem Acra, evening wear was infused with the inspiration from the 70s and the Victorian era. Acra displayed a stunning collection filled with figureemphasizing gowns and delicate, sheer dresses. Playing with a variety of necklines, looks alternated between deep v-cut styles and embellished high-neck designs. Red-carpet-ready standouts included a second-skin, sheer black, high-neck gown. Another must-see show for Day Five was Rag & Bone. Designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright brought a revival to a 2000s trend that merged with 90s aesthetics. Models strutted down the runway in tissue-thin, longsleeve tees paired with lacy camisoles and covered by lace-trimmed slip dresses. Models also donned dresses and skirts over legging-like pants topped with 90s hiphop influenced puffer jackets, demonstrating interesting aesthetic capabilities by assimilating the decades’ trends together. Reem Arca (photo from Style.com)
Top: Reem Acra, Carolina Herrera, Reem Acra; Bottom: Carolina Herrera, Rag & Bone, Carolina Herrera (photos from Style.com)
February 17th DAY SIX By Alyssa Sage Show attendees were offered an immense dose of dramatic silhouettes on Day Six. The most prominent trend graced the runway in the form of loose, wideleg trousers, oversized knits and menswear-inspired outerwear. Major perpetrators of the trend were Narciso Rodriguez, Vera Wang and J. Crew. Amidst the alwaysexpected black and white garments, Narciso Rodriguez’s fall designs explored a pastel, sherbet color palette and embraced long, slender silhouettes with high waists and floor-sweeping trouser hems. The Vera Wang fall collection opted for a relatively darker approach by designing a nearly all-black collection. J. Crew’s fall collection was quite the opposite of Wang’s. While Jenna Lyons did moderate the presence of sparkles in this particular collection, vibrant color-contrasted ensembles were not lacking. The collection introduced fresh colorblock combinations while still generously adhering to the preppy aesthetic that is characteristic to the brand. The Oscar de la Renta show also deserves recognition. The unveiling of the fall collection was memorable not for its adherence to the day’s trends, but because it was the runway debut of the late designer’s predecessor, Peter Copping. While there were subtle references to de la Renta’s iconic celebrations of luxurious elegance and femininity, it was still evident that the collection was the product of new creative direction. Featuring lace bodices and varying necklines, the evening gowns arguably stole the show. Judging from the reported smile on Annette de la Renta’s face following the presentation, Copping’s newly-acquired reign is off to an admirable start. J. Crew (photo from Style.com)
Top: Narciso Rodriguez, J. Crew, Narciso Rodriguez; Bottom: Oscar de la Renta, Vera Wang, Oscar de la Renta (photos from Style.com)
February 18th DAY SEVEN
By Phebe Myers Day Seven featured one of the most exciting newer labels to show at NYFW, Delpozo. Showing a bright and modern collection, Delpozo presented colorblocked knits and button-ups that were made fresh with elaborate beadwork and grey and coral scarves. The boldly-hued, oversized coats of the collection were notable, as minimalistic patterns were complemented by seemingly random, yet perfectly paired, color combinations. Overall, the pieces were innovative and chic without feeling overdone like wearable works of art taken from the gallery of a contemporary art museum. Bridging modern-day trends with those of the past, Day Seven also featured a revival of 20s styles. Always one of the most glamourous shows at fashion week, Marchesa created glorious textures by incorporating both fringe and tulle in their designs. Also opting to incorporate fringe, Bibhu Mohapatra’s lush show featured bright cobalts and siennas paired with luxurious grey fur coats for an enchanting jetsetter vibe. Michael Kors’ show was one of the most buzzed about events of the day, with the prime all-American model trio of Karlie Kloss, Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid making appearances on the catwalk. Kors stuck to his classic guns, using navy and camel as the collection’s main colors. The show was widely hailed as a success with oversized furs, thick tweed and, of course, fringe. Bibhu Mohapatra (photo from Style.com)
Top: Michael Kors, Bibhu Mohapatra, Michael Kors; Bottom: Delpozo, Marchesa, Delpozo (photos from Style.com)
February 19th DAY EIGHT
By Emma Leuman Perhaps in response to the polar vortex or in realization that winter temperatures are actually frigid, Day Eight of NYFW welcomed heavy layers, adding subtle shine to otherwise neutral clothing. Ralph Lauren kicked off the trend by sending models down the runway with fur trapper hats, muffs and mittens. His use of fur in this fashion was an indicator of his signature American style, while Marc Jacobs added his typical twist to the accent. Jacobs utilized a black and white fur to add graphic dimension to some of his looks, which gave an overall eerie tone to his show. Jacobs also utilized the warm textile in more traditional ways, such as in the lapels of his coats and as collars. Another trend quite visible on the runway was an affinity for shimmer and shine during the colder months. While Ralph Lauren created statement jewelry-like embellishment on his tops, he embraced full-body glamour in a few of his finale gowns. Marc Jacobs leaned more on shine, utilizing it on the piping of a few of his coats which caught the light beautifully. Finally, J. Mendel used shine to add his signature sexiness to classic silhouettes. Long sleeve gowns were made less demure, and jumpsuits were given edge. Ralph Lauren (photo from Style.com)
Top: Ralph Lauren, J. Mendel, Ralph Lauren; Bottom: Marc Jacobs, J. Mendel, Marc Jacobs (photos from Style.com)
MODA