ISSUE 223 | JULY 2015 | £6.95 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
THE BUYERS’ GUIDE TRENDS, PRODUCT AND NEWS FOR S/S 16 — BUILDING A BRITISH EMPIRE HARVEY NICHOLS’ ANITA BARR ON PUTTING MENSWEAR BACK ON THE MAP
We are taking appointments for SPRING/SUMMER 2016 Contact us: +44(0)1332 342 068 enquiries@weekendoffender.com Visit us at JACKET REQUIRED 29 & 30 July 2015 The Old Truman Brewery Hanbury Street London E1 6QL www.weekendoffender.com
2 9 & 3 0 J U LY 2 0 1 5
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JULY 2015 | CONTENTS | 07
F E A T U R E S 14
Online Insider Advice, news and issues online
17
Fit for a king Profiling iconic British tailor Turnbull & Asser
19
What is omni-channel without personality? MWB looks at why a brand’s personality is key to both on and offline retail
20
Retail Insider The latest in-store news
27
Product News Rounding up the key stories this month
32
In-season stock Finishing touches
34
In-season stock Ahead of the game
36
Northern ambition Looking at what makes Leeds indie Lambert’s Yard a game changer
38
London Collections: Men The key s/s 16 trends to come out of the London showcase
41
Jacket Required Tom Bottomley highlights some of the finest additions for the s/s 16 edition
47
The buyers’ guide The essential rundown of the s/s 16 buying season
58
Retail round-up MWB goes to the shop floor to see how business is faring
63
Building an empire Looking at how British label Realm & Empire creates a successful collection
66
Italian highlights Six key finds from last month’s Pitti Uomo
68
Fresh from Florence Capturing some of the best streetstyle looks from the grounds of the Fortezza da Basso
70
Northern Soul heads to Soho Oi Polloi’s latest bricks-and-mortar opening
72
Concrete jungle MWB’s seasonal contemporary young fashion shoot
R E G U L A R S 9 10 22
Comment News Interview Anita Barr
88 91 94
Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With… Chloe Ward
Front cover:
Black Eyewear sunglasses 020 7637 2144, N1SQ shirt 0161 831 3700, Soulland shorts 0045 26150186
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E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com
JULY 2015 | 09
COMMENT
— D E P U T Y
E D I T O R
Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — S U B
E D I T O R
Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R
S A L E S
M A N A G E R
Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — H E A D
O F
M E N S W E A R
Jamie Harden jamie@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L
D I R E C T O R
Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O
D I R E C T O R
Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G
D I R E C T O R
Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk
One of my favourite issues to date, the July edition of MWB brings together the very best of what s/s 16 has to offer. From comprehensive trend run-downs to discovering what key brands have in store across contemporary and classic menswear, this issue is your essential guide to the new season. —
— M A N A G I N G
D I R E C T O R
Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —
MWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2015 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —
The start of the s/s 16 buying season kicked off in the capital with London Collections: Men, where MWB once again hosted its Open House in conjunction with the four-day event. Style continued to spill out from catwalks to the streets and, while there were fewer commercial options from designers, there was a plethora of wearable staples from the likes of Oliver Spencer, YMC and Richard James, among others. On p38 we’ve put together the key trends to emerge from LC:M, including wide-fit trousers from the likes of Christopher Kane and Agi & Sam, through to the colour that dominated the runways – green. And although it may take a season or two to translate down the fashion chain to the everyday man, these highlights are designed to keep you one step ahead. When predicting what will be popular in terms of trends and products for the coming seasons, there’s no better place to look than on the streets – or the grounds of Fortezza da Basso, to be exact. The MWB team was on hand at Pitti Uomo to snap the well dressed, and perhaps the slightly overdressed, in the Italian heat. Product, meanwhile, continues to be at the heart of MWB, from our highlights of Florence, through to the news and developments from the key names in mainstream menswear. For young fashion retailers, however, our seasonal street and sportswear photo shoot on p72 takes a look at the pieces we predict will be bestsellers this time next year. As always, I hope to see many of you at the various upcoming trade exhibitions, and I wish you a successful buying season. For up-to-date show coverage and news, remember to sign up to our weekly newsletter on www.mwb-online.co.uk. And, if you have any comments on this issue or the industry as a whole, contact me via email or tweet the team at @mwbmagazine. Victoria Jackson Editor
A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.
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JULY 2015 | NEWS | 10
N E W S
NEW UK AGENTS FOR MAC
WESTFIELD INVESTS IN LUXURY FASHION Westfield London has agreed a multi-million pound investment to expand its luxury shopping area, The Village. Plans will see a number of stores expanded, new luxury names opened and existing retailers relocated to larger spaces. The upgrades reflect growing demand for luxury retail from Westfield London shoppers and increased global luxury spend, which grew by seven per cent in 2014, representing annual sales of £10.1bn in the personal luxury goods market in London alone. Demand from tourists for premium items has also contributed, with luxury sales expected to increase 10.75 per cent in the UK by 2018. “Westfield London is rated the number-one shopping centre in the UK and is in the top-five tourist shopping destinations in London,” says Keith Mabbett, director of leasing for Westfield. “The Village was the first luxury offer inside a shopping centre in the UK and has proved popular, attracting over 100 million visitors since opening in 2008. “We pride ourselves on creating exciting and innovative places for our customers and this major investment in The Village is an important part of this strategy,” he continues. “We work closely with our retail partners to understand how we can support their business ambitions for their stores, and these enhancements are a critical part of these partnerships.” The refurbishment will see fashion brand Versace increase its presence with three stores in Westfield London, including two new stores in The Village – Versace and Versus Versace. Following the success of its pop-up store at Westfield London, shoppers will now be able to visit the first permanent UK Versus Versace store, which opens this month. Shoppers to The Village will also benefit from new retailers arriving in autumn 2015 including Sandro, Jigsaw, Zadig & Voltaire and Claudie Pierlot. In addition, Whistles will launch a new, enlarged store later this year, and Hackett has recently completed a re-fit and opened a new shop. Enhancements also include the launch of a new personal styling service, The Fashion Lounge, which is situated on the second floor of The Village. Improvements to The Village will continue throughout 2015, with further new stores to be announced later in the year.
—
Following its successful showcase at Moda Gent in February, German trouser specialist Mac is driving forward with its penetration of the UK market with the appointment of two new agents. Stephen Gray will manage the South and the Midlands, while David Agar will cover the North of England and Scotland. Following a number of seasons out of the UK market, the German brand is looking to once again target key independent doors, focusing not only on its forward-order collection but also on a comprehensive never-out-of-stock programme. One of Mac’s strongest products to date is its Jog n Jean concept – a design that looks like a fivepocket denim jean, yet is made from stretch sweat fabric to aid comfort and flexibility. Available at £38 wholesale, the Jog n Jean is available through stock and in 10 washes in the forward-order range. —
TEXTILE FORUM INCREASES MEN’S OFFER The Textile Forum will present an expanded edition this autumn, showcasing a comprehensive range of textiles for designers looking to source luxury fabrics. Taking place at London’s One Marylebone on 14-15 October, the exhibition will play host to a range of textile producers targeting both the men’s and women’s sectors. “It will be our biggest exhibition since the first show 13 years ago,” says event organiser Linda Laderman. “While Textile Forum has traditionally been strong on womenswear fabrics, we will be balancing these collections with a bigger selection of fabrics for men’s outerwear and daywear.” New exhibitors at the show include Huddersfield’s Dugdale Bros (pictured) and Dashing Tweeds, while returning favourites include Hainsworth and Holland & Sherry. Find out more at www.textileforum.org.uk. —
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JULY 2015 | NEWS | 11
IN BRIEF
AWARD FOR JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN
PAUL SMITH SUPPORTS NEW DESIGN
Cashmere and tweed specialist Johnstons of Elgin was recognised for its commitment to employing young people through an initiative from Investors in People Scotland last month. The brand received Investors In Young People (IIYP) accreditation in recognition of its modern apprenticeship programme, through which 80 apprentices are currently qualified or in training. “Achieving IIYP accreditation for Johnstons of Elgin means marrying the traditional with the modern – the traditional weaving skills that are to be found in their iconic woollen mill, delivered through modern apprenticeships by enthusiastic young people building their career,” says SNP MP Angus Robertson, pictured above left with Chris Gaffney, group finance director. “The award marks the commitment of the young apprentices and Johnstons of Elgin as their employer, giving them the best opportunities, and getting the best from them in return.” —
Sir Paul Smith has teamed up with the British Fashion Council (BFC) to support and promote emerging designers in the men’s fashion sector. Last month saw the iconic British designer share his Milan showroom during Milan Men’s Fashion Week with rising stars Agi & Sam, Craig Green and Lee Roach, all of whom are forging careers in men’s fashion from London. “As I’ve gained more and more experience, I’ve always tried to give back to the industry,” says Smith. “The event in Milan is a natural progression, and the three designers we’re working with are talented guys, who I think will do well in the future.” The BFC, meanwhile, praised the designer for nurturing young talent in such a unique way. This partnership allowed the designers the invaluable opportunity to present their s/s 16 collections to an audience of press and buyers at Milan Fashion Week,” says Caroline Rush, chief executive of the BFC. —
PITTI UOMO REPORTS RECORD-BREAKING EDITION
MAGEE CELEBRATES 150 YEARS
Italian trade exhibition Pitti Uomo has closed its 88th edition with “record-breaking” figures and increased international footfall, according to event organiser Pitti Immagine. Total attendance at the menswear exhibition – which took place at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence – exceeded 30,000, while visitors from overseas grew by 6.5 per cent in comparison to last year. The figures represent a total growth in attendance of five per cent in direct comparison with the June 2014 edition of the show. “The atmosphere among the stands was filled with energy”, says Pitti Immagine’s CEO Raffaello Napoleone, “We saw collections that were rich in creativity and constructed with an eye on the market, and we received very positive feedback regarding the proposals in the various sections and the new projects launched at this edition.” —
Family menswear label Magee celebrates 150 years in the trade this season with a special anniversary launch at Moda Gent. The brand – which was founded in 1866 in Donegal Town, Ireland – will incorporate all the hallmarks of its heritage into a relevant and contemporary collection for s/s 16. “It’s about striking a balance,” says Charlotte Temple, fourth-generation co-owner of the iconic label. “Part of our collections are more directional and aimed at new and indeed existing customers, but we also maintain our classics, with seasonal hints of colour and design. And, of course, consistent fit and good quality are vital to all our customers.” Specifically Magee has created two anniversary capsule collections – one for spring and one for autumn – each comprising a limited-edition selection of high-quality separates with a focus on the fabrics that have made the brand so iconic. —
TIMBERLAND INCREASES LIFESTYLE FOCUS Global apparel label Timberland continues to build on its identity as a comprehensive lifestyle label with the launch of its new s/s 16 collection. The brand – which made its Moda Gent debut last season – will return to the show this summer with a diversified range created around a refreshed sense of style and youthfulness. “Timberland has huge momentum around the world right now,” says Andy Hewat, Timberland’s country manager for the UK. “Classic products like our original yellow boot are resonating with consumers but, for me, it’s the Timberland apparel range that drives the real excitement and opportunity. This trend toward heritage and authenticity is lifting the brand as a whole - and I believe that Moda Gent provides the platform we need to showcase and highlight our apparel range.” — K-SWISS ACQUIRES ONE-DISTRIBUTION Global footwear and apparel label K-Swiss has acquired skate footwear and apparel manufacturer ONE-distributon. The development – which brings footwear label Supra and denim brand KR3W into its stable – is part of a wider move to become a key player on a global scale. “We are on an aggressive track to be one of the world’s leading multi-brand companies,” says K-Swiss Global Brands’ president, Larry Remington. “Supra and KR3W are labels that meet the distinctions we are looking for in our portfolio.” — NEW CFO AT SUPERGROUP SuperGroup, the parent company behind Superdry, has appointed Nick Wharton to the position of chief financial officer with immediate effect. Wharton has been Interim CFO since February and is now stepping up to the board of the company. He was previously CEO of Dunelm Group and, prior to that, CFO of Halfords Group, as well as having held senior finance positions at Boots Opticians, Boots Healthcare International, Do-it-All and Cadbury Schweppes. Wharton is a chartered accountant and non-executive director of Mothercare. — BIRA TOUR GETS UNDER WAY The British Independent Retailers’ Association (Bira) has taken to the road once again, offering free events for retailers in towns across the UK. Having commenced on 9 July in Wantage, Oxfordshire, the tour takes in eight locations, with stop-offs planned for Barnoldswick, Lancashire; Belper, Derbyshire; Broxburn, West Lothian; Colwyn Bay, North Wales; Kingston-upon-Thames, London; Norwich, Norfolk; and Belfast, Northern Ireland. “As an association that has supported independent retailers for over 116 years, we have a wealth of knowledge in how best to support retailers and help their bottom line,” says Julie Conway, national membership manager at Bira. — NEW RETAIL CONCEPT FOR HARRYS Men’s footwear label Harrys of London has announced the appointment of designer Christian Lahoude to create a new concept for its London flagship. The design will be extended over two floors, offering more space for its expanded collection. There will also be extra space in-store for other footwear services including a shoe-care “bar”. Following the re-opening of the flagship store, the Lahoude design concept will be rolled out across other Harrys of London locations, which can be found in more than 20 countries. —
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JULY 2015 | NEWS | 12
IN BRIEF
ZALANDO INVESTS IN BBB
BRITISH ECONOMY ON “FIRM FOOTING”
Berlin e-tailer Zalando has invested into troubled German trade show Bread & Butter Berlin (BBB), meaning insolvency proceedings for the fashion exhibition could be closed by October this year. Together, the companies are looking to further develop Berlin as a fashion location, with the content of the new BBB concept for 2016 finalised and ready to be communicated later this year. “We were always convinced of the appeal of the BBB fashion event and trademark,” says Christian Graf Brockdorff, insolvency administrator for BBL Bernsau Brockdorff & Partner. “This is why we have supported the continuation. With the new investor on board, the future of it all is now secure and BBB can be lead out of insolvency this year. I would like to thank Karl-Heinz Müller and the BBB team as well as the Centuros consultancy for their support in reaching this goal.” —
The British economy is on a “firm footing”, having grown faster than predicted this year, according to the Confederation of British Industry (CBI). The CBI – which is the business sector’s largest lobbying group and represents the interests of UK business – predicts that the economy will now continue to improve with “solid, steady and sustainable growth” forecast into next year. “Our members are feeling more upbeat than some of the recent official numbers suggest, with our surveys showing that retail and the service sectors in particular are performing strongly,” says John Cridland, the CBI’s director general. “Businesses on the ground are seeing a pretty solid recovery. Business investment is making a strong contribution to growth, while solid consumer spending is underpinned by rock bottom inflation, low interest rates and rising incomes.” —
RETAILERS URGED TO LOOK LOCAL
RETAILERS TO BENEFIT FROM CROSSRAIL
Some 3,000 retailers, manufacturers and designers descended on London’s Tobacco Dock last month for the annual Meet the Manufacture conference and trade show. The two-day event, organised by Make it British, welcomed key speakers such as E.Tautz designer and creative director of Savile Row’s Norton & Son Patrick Grant, chairman of Dr Martens David Suddens and Anita Nagarajan, ethical trading manager at Oasis and Warehouse. Grant, who headlined the event, said, “The future of UK manufacturing has to be in skills, investment in machinery and investment in the fabric of our factories. “Genuine partnerships between the large retailers and manufacturers – not just in the small, niche product lines, but as a genuine, fundamental part of everything that they do – can create an awful lot of jobs and an awful lot of value.” —
Retailers in London’s West End and the surrounding areas are set to benefit from an estimated £10bn revenue project after the opening of Crossrail in 2018. New West End Company, the business voice and representatives of 600 businesses across Oxford Street, Bond Street and Regent Street, revealed plans for multi-billion pound development work in order to capitalise on the arrival of London’s new, high-capacity railway. Plans for a number of projects and major building developments valued at an estimated combined gross development value of £2.5bn are set to attract shoppers to the area and should see retail revenues increase. This is expected to place London ahead of any other European city for retail and cement its place among the world’s top global destinations. —
DEBENHAMS RAISES £5K FOR RETAIL TRUST Department store Debenhams has raised £5,208 for industry charity the Retail Trust through a series of dedicated summer events. The campaign – hosted in conjunction with Barclays Bank – saw the high-street multiple organise Summer Shopping Evenings within seven of its stores last month for Barclays Premier clients. Each event saw shoppers enjoy exclusive previews, discounts, demonstrations and goody bags, while having the opportunity to learn about and support the Retail Trust. The Retail Trust supports the 4.5 million people currently working in retail, offering services such as free counselling, debt advice, hardships grants, course-funding and retirement housing. — TOM JOULE SHORTLISTED FOR AWARD Tom Joule, CEO and founder of British lifestyle brand Joules, has been shortlisted for the CEO of the Year Award at the UK Private Business Awards. Now in their fifth year, the PWC UK Private Business Awards celebrate success and achievement within the vast number of private businesses in the UK, and are presented to the UK’s most successful private companies, entrepreneurs and management teams. Finalists will be announced on 30 September at a gala dinner, which will be held at The Brewery, London. “I’m proud to take a role in encouraging and motivating our teams, and feel honoured to have been recognised on the shortlist,” says Joule. — BOXPARK CROYDON TO LAUNCH IN 2016 Following on from the world’s first pop-up mall, Boxpark Shoreditch, is the impending launch of Boxpark Croydon for summer 2016. The brainchild of Roger Wade, creator of British streetwear brand Boxfresh, the concept saw the refitting of shipping containers, which are then stacked up, creating flexible, low-cost retail spaces and a new form of retail destination. Situated at Ruskin Square, next to East Croydon Station, Boxpark Croydon will embrace the original ethos but will be bigger – offering 80 shopping containers – and more radical. Playing host to handpicked indie labels and fresh-thinking businesses, Boxpark Croydon has a strict “no high-street fascia” rule. — PUBLIC SCHOOL DESIGNS FOR MR PORTER Designer menswear brand Public School has created an exclusive capsule collection for online retailer Mr Porter. The brand – which is headed up by designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow – created the collection around the ethos of “sohpisticated ease”, incorporating sweats, spring outerwear and shirting into the summer offer. “We always have and still shop at Mr Porter,” says Osborne. “These garments reference our guy on the move, and focus on mix-and-match items that can be worn during the day and just as easily at night.” — NEW CHIP TO “REVOLUTIONISE” CLOTHING Researchers at Nottingham Trent University have created a method of embedding clothes with tiny data chips invisible to the naked eye. The development – which its creators say could “revolutionise” the clothing sector – could be used to enhance security, improve stocktake efficiency and allow clothes donated to charity to be tracked all around the world. The method involves embedding radio-frequency identification chips into yarns which are then woven and knitted to create garments. —
Heart of Fashion
Woman Lingerie & Swimwear Accessories Footwear Gent
9-11 August 2015 Moda, NEC Birmingham Register for tickets at moda-uk.co.uk
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JULY 2015 | ADVICE | 14
ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.
ADVICE: WHAT DOES THE MOBILE-FRIENDLY UPDATE MEAN FOR FASHION BRANDS?
KATH DAWSON is a creative director at Strategy Digital and can be contacted via 0845 838 0936.
It’s been around a month since Google’s mobile-friendly update – or Mobilegeddon – came into effect. The update saw retailers big and small scramble to catch up and keep their place in SERPs (Search Engine Results Pages). The latest algorithm is designed to penalise web pages in mobile search results that aren’t mobile-friendly. But not only that, it boosts the sites that are. To put it simply – the update means that having a mobilefriendly website is no longer an option; it’s a necessity. In its push towards creating a mobile-friendly experience across the internet, Google has made it easy for retailers to see what they need to improve to get that all-important mobile-friendly tag. The Google Webmaster mobile-friendly test will tell you if your site is mobile-friendly and if not, what you need to do about it. For instance, it might flag up that the text is too small, the links are too close together or that your content is too large for a mobile viewport – plus many other factors. You can also use Google Analytics for further information about your mobile performance in the Mobile Traffic Overview Report in the Audience section. According to data from Google, the number of UK consumers searching for fashion retailers on their smartphones grew 54 per cent yearon-year in the first quarter of 2015. One of our clients, premium menswear retailer Woodhouse Clothing, is a great example of a fashion brand benefiting from a boost in mobile traffic. Over 70 per cent of the brand’s traffic is from mobile devices. As a result, the label implemented a fully responsive mobile site with enhanced customer account functionality. The result after Mobilegeddon? The brand saw an increase in organic mobile traffic of 42 per cent in the week after the update, in comparison with the week before. The latest Google algorithm should not be seen as a negative thing. In fact, it’s an opportunity for fashion retailers to create the best possible customer experience and ultimately increase their conversion rate. Customers can wave goodbye to mobile sites that require them to zoom in and out and scroll up and across, just to find a link that’s too small to click. This update signals a shift towards an ever-expanding mobile culture, and it’s essential for fashion retailers to be on board. —
WEB WATCH
WWW.EDWIN-EUROPE.COM Japanese denim specialist Edwin has unveiled its latest online development with the launch of a brand new website. Created by web-developing consultancy Sennep, the site has been simplified, highlighting product with strong imagery. “We focused on creating a clean design and user interface to allow customers to move through the buying process with ease,” says a spokesperson for Sennep. “From the branded video clips on the homepage to big, bold product shots, the visual content is maximised within the browser.” —
NEWS
SHOPPERS TO BENEFIT FROM COVENT GARDEN APP Visitors to Covent Garden can now benefit from special offers and services at multiple outlets available via new smartphone app The Pass, which has been designed specifically for the area. Visitors can access offers at retail stores, restaurants and bars immediately by downloading the service for free on phones and tablets via iOS and Android operating systems. Services include rewards from some of Covent Garden’s most popular brands including Clinique, Dior, Aveda, Penhaligon’s, Galeria Melissa, Oliver Sweeney and Blo Blow Dry Bar, as well as restaurants such as Laduree, Joe Allen and Lima Floral. The Pass is the latest retail concept to come to Covent Garden. Recently the area has become known as a launch pad for labels debuting the latest retail concepts. Last year, Marc Jacobs opened a Tweet shop on the Piazza, which saw thousands of consumers tweet in exchange for branded goods. Beverley Churchill, creative director of property company Capco, says, “We’ve spent months developing The Pass to give visitors the ultimate ‘insider’ experience of Covent Garden. For the first time, this new technology allows us to track customers’ favourite offers, so we can learn how Covent Garden visitors like to shop and dine. The best brands across the district are taking part, and more are continually joining. Londoners won’t find the carefully curated offers, services and benefits at any of their other London stores.” — SEARCH ENGINE MARKETING TOOL, SMART FEED, LAUNCHES Twenga, the online advertising and acquisition specialist, has launched a new search engine marketing solution called Smart Feed, which is now available throughout Europe. The innovative solution allows e-retailers to boost the performance of their advertising campaigns on Google Shopping, an increasingly important acquisition channel in e-commerce. The choice of keywords, products, images, campaign titles and bidding level are factors that can drastically impact the performance of Google Shopping campaigns. The new Smart Feed solution helps retailers to master this complexity in order to increase revenue and profitability.
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JULY 2015 | PROFILE | TURNBULL & ASSER | 17
FIT FOR A KING With a clientele list featuring the likes of Prince Charles, Ronald Reagan and The Beatles, British tailoring label Turnbull & Asser is renowned within its field. Paul Markevicius delves into the archives of one of Jermyn Street’s greatest to discover exactly what makes this brand as relevant today as it was 130 years ago. —
If you ask men who like to dress well about Turnbull & Asser (T&A), the recognition is usually shirts, ties and Jermyn Street. Renowned shirt-maker of the English throne and 130 years old this year, it is one of London’s finest bespoke, made to measure and ready-towear men’s outfitters. A key challenge facing T&A – like much of Savile Row and Jermyn Street – is remaining true to one’s own history while cultivating new clientele relationships. It is a delicate balance, leveraging tradition but not being constrained by its inward-looking nature. The T&A s/s 16 collection, shown at LC:M last month, suggests that it is possible to marry Edwardian tradition with modern design and pull off a styling coup. A propitious tailoring alchemy seems to have brought T&A together with Dean GomilsekCole, the head designer for the brand since 2013.
Gomilsek-Cole describes his guiding design principles as time travelling – looking at their celebrity studded history, appreciating the value of the archives within the vast tie collection at T&A and trying to extend it without being stuck in the past. “History acts as a springboard,” he says. “New ideas are hard to pull off but, with modern technology, finer yarns and better finishing taking the designs to new places, we keep the intricacy of weaving while maintaining the blood-line of the shirt at the same time. Ultimately, what we produce should uphold the traditions of the British industry and be of great quality.” Founded in 1885, by hosier Reginald Turnbull and salesman Ernest Asser, the brand was set up in St James’s in the neighbourhood of gentlemen’s clubs and high-end haberdashers. It flourished and grew into a clothier, adding sportswear. The
Queen bestowed the right on Prince Charles to grant royal warrants in 1981 – which he first gave to T&A. Along with the Prince of Wales and other royalty, the brand’s pattern books include Picasso, Charlie Chaplin, Winston Churchill, Sean Connery, Daniel Craig and many more. Colin Firth and Taron Egerton from the recent British spy movie, Kingsman, by Matthew Vaughan, were dressed by T&A. It was the director’s father who influenced Vaughan to bring in his father’s dressing gown – a red silk moire weave – so it could be reproduced for Firth. With the accent on “make it British” as part of the renaissance in the UK textile manufacturing industry, T&A is certainly flying the flag, without trying to smother you with it. Fox flannels are created specifically for the brand, in unique colourways by Fox Brothers >>>
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in Somerset – a traditional English woollen and worsted manufacturer since 1772. Production also uses Vanners and Stephen Walters, both of whom are based in Sudbury and have been weaving silk since the 1700s. The smaller manufacturers Gomilsek-Cole regards as vulnerable, not just to the vagaries of economic cycles, but also by being sucked into the whimsy of fashion, making them dependent on short-lived fads. “Having more arms to the business, being able to respond faster to customer demand and having a stable base of clients, products and service providers are key,” he says. A playful deference to sophistication was revealed at the launch of the s/s 16 men’s collection. The label’s Mayfair showroom transformed into a surreal collaboration between Phileas Fogg and Attenborough with urban skyline graphics as a backdrop. And no wonder – you are taken on a global journey. Silk and wool styling on shirts, ties, scarves, pocket squares and jackets combine with Aztec, African and Japanese jacquards and prints in the designs, in re-imagined shirt styles in linen blends and indigo patterns reflecting the continents represented. Bold contrasts of stripes and checks, and fabric selections on display – raw silk ties matched with African pattern pocket silks presented in a traditional double-breasted designed jacket in powder blue check, with exaggerated yellow cross-stripes. Gomilsek-Cole is daring, yet the checks on checks are never excessive, and foreground texture, quality and balancing intrinsic in the design. Exploring the motif, horizontal stripes on jackets mimic African plains animals, extending from body to sleeve with subtle, tailored finishing. And pursuing the playful line, stripes are dropped into concentric angular
JULY 2015 | PROFILE | TURNBULL & ASSER | 18
patterns on the back, emphasising the torso of the square-shouldered male. “We are not Savile Row, we create our own rules,” says Gomilsek-Cole. Having done so, clearly having fun in the process. Many of the jackets on display have cunning story-based motifs hidden within the designs taken from tie silks, with some produced full width so they can be made into clothing. Evidently, the brand is keen to share the traditions and alluring fascination of men’s tailoring. Inspired by a long-standing and recently hyped film association, they are creating a series of films about the personalities involved from the sketch to the actual garment, to be shown on a T&A micro-site. “People aren’t just buying a shirt – it has been touched by many people along the way; there’s an emotional transaction and transference taking place, and we are looking for imaginative ways to communicate it,” says Gomilsek-Cole. And while T&A has a successful blog – Off The Cuff – as well as an active presence on Facebook and Instagram, “bespoke still requires a fitting in the boutique for all the right reasons.” Up some reassuringly time-worn, creaking polished stairs of the bespoke fitting rooms of T&A, in 23 Bury Street, (off Jermyn Street) I met a gentleman by the name of Martin Wise, cataloguing the archives of T&A. It was as though I had been given an access all areas pass to outfitters heaven for a few precious, unforgettable moments, in a room that held the history of many of the world’s most famous men – their dressing habits, preferences, sizes, types of orders, frequency and volume. “We are really talking about different people,” says Wise. “People who move in different circles and behave differently. Buying 40 handmade shirts
to be sent to a particular location where they spend a few weeks of the year.” Wise goes on to provide an intimate perspective of the role T&A played in the late 60s and 70s as one of the top men’s stores. During its annual sale, legendary queues stretched down the block, spilling into Quaglino’s restaurant opposite with a string quartet playing throughout the Sale. “There was a famous incident when Lord Snowden and David Frost were refused entry into a New York club because they weren’t wearing ties,” he says. “They were wearing T&A Cossack-style shirts. Overnight this style of shirt (a turtle-neck with button at the back) became famous.” Autographed photos of people like Stephen Fry, Ronald Reagan, Daniel Craig, Jason Statham, Walther Mathau, Hugh Heffner in a dressing gown (of course) adorn the walls. And the rogues gallery really does go on, to include sportsmen, politicians and loyal, long-standing customers with their own shirt bags. The things you won’t see – the Day Book in February 1968 – a veritable Lords and Ladies society and celebrity who’s-who; the Pablo Picasso swatches for his shirt collars on a Zephyr shirt, which meant a cool breeze and a quality lightweight weave. Or the pattern book envelopes. Not just any old envelopes. One with the names Ringo, George, Paul and John in blue pencil on the front. And inside, written on the pattern block the same names in the same order, denoting the sleeve length of each of our treasured Beatles, measured not far from where I was standing. And not a young Mr Grace in sight. Paul Markevicius is a senior contributor to Fashion Capital, a leading online resource portal for the fashion and manufacturing industry. www.fashioncapital.co.uk.
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JULY 2015 | REPORT | 19
WHAT IS OMNI-CHANNEL WITHOUT PERSONALITY? Joanna Cruikshank, managing director of omni-channel specialist agency Folk, discusses why personality is crucial to online and mobile retail, in an age where consumers continue to consider the service you give them far beyond the products you sell. —
From the moment I wake up in the morning to the moment I go to bed at night, I’m swimming in marketing soup. There are ads on my phone, on the radio, at the bus stop, online, in print and on the TV. They’re talked about, tweeted about and written about – they’re simply in my daily sphere, whether I want them there or not. Before the industrial heyday, back when new really was new, brands, businesses and their products were there to serve a purpose. Nothing was arbitrary. Everything was crafted with love and precision. Nothing was made with money at its heart – it was about passion, pride and purpose. Craftsmen saw pains, and offered cures. They empowered and were empowered. They were successful because they made a difference. However, the mechanisation of retail meant things could be made at low cost, and all of a sudden purpose didn’t matter anymore. It was all about making things as cheaply as possible, and quality took a back seat. This stood for a number of decades and, among other things, helped to catalyse the ad revolution. Then markets started to become saturated and, as technologies advanced, consumers started becoming more savvy, and more demanding. With the introduction of the Internet, brand communication was no longer a one-way street. Consumers could speak their minds widely, and with ever-growing spheres of
influence. Soon, what people had to say mattered again, and it forced mass-market control to shift more and more away from the manufacturers, and more and more towards the people. They stopped needing you. Suddenly the mass production model looked a little shaky. And, whether you’re scared or excited, that brings us to now. You have to think deeply about what and why you exist. You need to think about what pains you’re soothing. You not only have to think about the consumer, you have to put them first. You have to understand their needs, and solve their problems, because otherwise they’ll just leave you behind. In the beginning there was only one channel – the bricks-and-mortar store – and life was simple. Then with telemarketing and the Internet, things became more complicated. This gave birth to cross-channel – the engagement of digital with retail. And just when we thought we had a handle on it, the Net became mobile, and gave us an even more complicated model to deal with – the multi-channel model, the standardisation of a brand across any number of channels. Omnichannel retail is the most seamless and refined of the channel brethren but, for us, it’s still not enough. You might have your channels in alignment, and your user experience might be out of this world. Your product specs might be unrivalled, and your branding “cool”. So? Why should I give you my money, over all of the other brands that claim the same accolades? I shouldn’t. And I won’t. This is why omni-channel is not enough by itself. You need to know why you’re using the channels you’re using. It’s no good saying, “Everyone’s using Facebook and Pinterest; everyone’s got a new scrolling website or flashy video” – as they won’t mean anything unless you know, to a tee, what they’re for, why they’re useful, and how
they’ll impact the world. That’s how you get our attention. Not with cheap prices, and arbitrary, bandwagon trend selling. Show me a label that’s doing its own version of Gangnam Style, and I’ll show you a brand without its finger on the pulse. You need one purposeful story everywhere. It’s omni-channel Mark II. To find out why purpose is a great starting point, I suggest watching Simon Sinek’s Start With Why Ted Talk. Then have a deep, deep look at your customer, think about what service you are giving them beyond the products you sell. How do you make them feel, why should they care about you and why do you matter? Asking these kinds of questions when it comes to your messaging online will force you to put service and your customer at the heart of what you do and how you do it. This is the type of mindset you need to create experiences that people remember and become loyal to. It’s not enough to simply have a great product and web design; you need to create a full experience. I read somewhere that if your service online makes people say, “That can’t be true” because it’s so unbelievably in service to them, you are on the way to creating a brand experience that will be shared and talked about. Once you have some strong value propositions tied to a “Why”, you can start to plan all of your messaging across your channels. And then everything becomes aligned and more useful to your target audience. Succeeding online is of course a complex combination of art and science, and we can only touch on the very basics in this article. The top line is there is more to e-commerce than selling your products. People don’t buy what you do, they buy why you do it, so make sure you start with being clear on that and see where it goes. Joanna Cruikshank, managing director, Folk www.wearefolk.com
“In the beginning there was only one channel – the bricks-and-mortar store – and life was simple. Then with telemarketing and the Internet… things became more complicated”
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JULY 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 20
RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —
VIEWPOINT Matthew Hanswell, manager of Hatters menswear in Norwich. Hatters is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).
WÅVEN OPENS DEBUT POP-UP British denim brand Wåven recently opened its first London pop-up store, in collaboration with Daniel Peters, the creative director of multi-brand retailer BSSClothing. Opening its doors on Soho’s D’Arblay Street, the shop ran for two weeks and stocked both menswear and womenswear, as well as complementary guest brands Mulo Shoes, Sidian Ersatz, Vanes and many more. During its residency, the concept store hosted a series of denim workshops, offering customers the opportunity to customise product in-store and leave with a one-of-a-kind piece. Workshops included made-to-order patchworking, guided by an in-house atelier and illustration demonstrations. “A collaboration is a great way of connecting audiences to new concepts and products, especially from such exciting British brands like Wåven,” says Daniel Peters, founder of BBSClothing. —
IN BRIEF DEBUT STORE FOR SUPREMEBEING Cambridge brand Supremebeing will open its much-anticipated first store this summer at 33 Marshall Street in London’s Carnaby. The 650 sq ft store will be arranged over two floors in the area’s Newburgh Quarter. As the first chance to shop the entire collection in one retail space, this will be more than just a store, but a creative space for the brand. As a destination to experience everything that Supremebeing represents through its unique, eclectic graphic design aesthetic for which the label is famous, shoppers can expect regular music and art events throughout the year in addition to storeexclusive product releases. —
MONMOUTH STREET TO WELCOME NEW NAMES Club Monaco and Natural Selection are two of the latest names to open bricks-andmortar stores within Seven Dial’s Monmouth Street. Club Monaco has taken an almost 2,000 sq ft shop, trading over ground-floor and basement levels – the fifth UK store for the international fashion brand. Natural Selection, meanwhile, will be housed in a 603 sq ft store, split over two levels. Specialising in menswear, the shop will house the full ready-to-wear clothing line. —
May and June have been strong trading months for us. The weather has been favourable and our ranges have proved popular. This is in spite of the prolific discounting taking place around us. Many of the multiples such as House of Fraser have been holding brand events or flash Sales with 20 per cent off some of the brands we carry. There is no doubt that the full-price selling season is becoming shorter and shorter. Even though we are a small independent, it’s difficult for us to react quickly to these sorts of promotions, not that we would necessarily choose to. I do feel that these mid-season promotions devalue a brand to a certain extent, and it’s a shame. The way in which we differentiate ourselves is by offering a wide selection from a label and providing a high level of service. Within a brand such as Hugo Boss, there are several labels (in this example – Hugo, Green and Black) that we will buy into carefully with the intention of providing our customers with the fit and size they need. As an independent, we try to remain mindful that we are all about the service and product knowledge, rather than existing as a purely “pickup and buy” shop. We also carry a vast range of suits and formal wear, which distinguish us from the high street. The formal wear and suits are a large part of our trade during the spring and summer and will often lead to, or arise from, a casualwear purchase. The two categories definitely complement each other. It’s certainly true that weather impacts men and their shopping habits. We find that men will go out to buy summer clothing when the weather suggests they need to, rather than in advance of the season such as is the case with many women. With largely favourable weather so far this season, we’ve had a good run on Holland Esquire and Barena linen jackets, shorts and short-sleeved shirts. Given the way in which men tend to shop for clothes, we will certainly hoping for a long, warm summer. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk
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JULY 2015 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 21
SHOPPED: STEVE ENGLISH How business been for you recently? It’s been a challenging season, but spring/summer is always a tougher season. You’ve got no Christmas at the end of it, and you just go straight into Sale. Everyone went on Sale early this year, too, and you feel like you have to follow suit – which obviously affects your margins. Overall, we’ve had no real growth, it’s just been steady. There have been fewer sales in store, but more sales online. — What has performed well for you? Nike sportswear and footwear has performed well, as usual, STEVE ENGLISH and Adidas Originals has been good this year – especially the OWNER, COOSHTI, Pharrell Williams collaboration product, including different BRISTOL coloured versions of the Superstar shoe. Edwin is usually our biggest hitter on denim, but denim has generally been a bit slow for us. We’ve done well with Canadian brand Raised by Wolves. It makes its collection in North America, and has really good-quality tees and sweats in particular. Stüssy has also been holding up well, though not quite as strong as last summer. — What plans have you got moving forward? We rebranded the shop last year, but not the website. The website currently represents around a third of our business, but we are about to update it, for a September relaunch. We’re generally expecting it to be about half of the business going forward. It will be more responsive and easier to navigate and use on mobile phones. —
IN FOCUS: BADGER CLOTHING 25-26 BOND STREET, NORTH LAINE, BRIGHTON BN1 1RD
ESTABLISHED: 1988 — BRANDS STOCKED: CARHARTT, FARAH, ORIGINAL PENGUIN, BARBOUR, JOHN SMEDLEY, SCOTCH & SODA, FRED PERRY, MATCHLESS, LEVI’S, LEE, MINIMUM, DOCKERS, PENFIELD, LYLE & SCOTT, SANDQVIST, J LINDEBERG, BARACUTA, SANDERS, G.H BASS “WEEJUNS”
MAYFAIR OPENING FOR BELL & ROSS Premium watch specialist Bell & Ross has opened in one of London’s most iconic shopping areas, Burlington Arcade. Located over three floors, the interior décor of the store has been revamped by the Bell & Ross design team, with a colour palette of beige and black. The ground floor plays host to the reception and sales areas, while the first floor includes a more intimate sales room, boasting walnut wood panelling and luxurious black carpet. The second floor, meanwhile, sees clean lines married with subtle details such as industrial lighting and herringbone oak parquet. The launch of the boutique highlights the importance that Bell & Ross places on expansion. The brand is currently present in more than 60 countries worldwide, with 13 exclusive retail stores and 700 points of sale. —
IN BRIEF
John White is co-owner of Badger with his business partner, Nadia Casimir. The men’s store was started in 1988, with the women’s store added in 1995. The North Laine was off the beaten track back then – now it’s a well-established shopping destination for independents. The men’s shop has always strived to appeal to 25-55 year-old men who want to shop for accessible brands in a friendly, unpressurised environment. It’s also been a priority to show them something new every season. With that, it’s built a very loyal customer base. Originally, the shop was a big stockist of Timberland, Rockport, Levi’s and Schott leathers – which they bought direct from the States. Twenty seven years on, Levi’s is still a strong performer, and Schott will be back in this autumn. These days, Badger has a more eclectic offering, with smarter labels such as J Lindeberg and John Smedley sitting next to Carhartt and Barbour. The premise being, if a guy can do a one-stop shop, he’s happy. White says, “Brighton’s such a fantastic place to live and visit, so at weekends we have customers from all over. Many of them comment on the beautiful old building we have, and really like the mix of brands we offer. We don’t sell online, so it’s of paramount importance to us that customers enjoy their shopping experience and keep coming back.”
WOKING SHOPPING WELCOMES FATFACE Lifestyle brand FatFace is set to open a 2,500 sq ft store in Woking’s Peacocks centre at Woking Shopping, one of the town’s premier retail destinations, this autumn. The label will take up residence in close proximity to the likes of Superdry, Monsoon and Jones. FatFace is a fast-growing retailer which offers a range of clothing and accessories for men, women and children who typify an active, outdoor lifestyle. Having started in 1988 as a business selling T-shirts and sweatshirts in the Alps, it is now one of the UK’s most recognised multichannel retail brands. —
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JULY 2015 | INTERVIEW | 22
INTERVIEW
ANITA BARR A distinguished career in fashion that started off in 1992 on the shop floor at Harrods, where she progressed through the ranks to become a buyer, leading to the role of director of menswear at Selfridges, has not dampened the appetite for success and a new challenge for Anita Barr. Now one year in as group fashion director at Harvey Nichols, Barr reveals all to Tom Bottomley about the big plans afoot to put the highend department store back on the menswear map. — Tom Bottomley: How does Harvey Nichols compare to your time at Harrods and Selfridges? Anita Barr: I’m so excited to be at Harvey Nichols now as we’re about to embark on an incredible journey. It feels like it did when I first joined Selfridges in 1999, at the beginning of huge change and growth for the business. As group fashion director at Harvey Nichols, I am responsible for all the fashion across menswear, womenswear and accessories. — TB: How are you taking the direction of menswear product going forward? AB: Menswear is evolving at a phenomenal rate. There is real excitement around men’s apparel and its evolution with Harvey Nichols. We’re constantly looking for new, exciting brands to bring to market and to ensure we have the best edit of product out there. — TB: Has a change of direction been on the cards for Harvey Nichols for some time? AB: We have a new CEO, Stacey Cartwright, who joined the business in February 2014. Stacey and the senior management team are working to transform the business and deliver an exceptional offer in a contemporary environment with outstanding service that keeps our customers loyal. Harvey Nichols is a well-loved, iconic brand, and being a part of such a transforming chapter in its history is very exciting for me personally.
GROUP FASHION DIRECTOR HARVEY NICHOLS
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— TB: What are the plans for the refurbishment of the menswear area in the Knightsbridge store? AB: In July, we start on the Menswear Project in the Knightsbridge store, where we will close the two lower ground levels and move men’s temporarily up to the fourth floor while we transform the space. The work is scheduled to be completed in early 2016. We will be creating two separate entrances from Sloane Street and Seville Street that will take you straight into menswear, opening internal entrances and installing an escalator to the lower ground floor. In addition to the physical changes, we will be looking at the brand mix, adjacencies, the customer journey and service – the whole experience will be transformed. Our objective is to create the ultimate place for men to shop in London. Once we open the new space in Knightsbridge, menswear will be unrecognisable from what it is today. — TB: How will you cope with the work being carried out? AB: We have spent a lot of time planning out the menswear move and its temporary home on the fourth floor will be a fantastic interim space for menswear. We will have all our key brands on offer and we still have a fair amount of new labels coming in. There will be lots of signage and staff on hand to direct customers to the new space, making it as easy as possible for customers. — TB: When is the Birmingham store relaunch? AB: The Birmingham store re-opens this month. It’s taken nine months to turn around from concept to launch. The existing store is moving to the heart of the new Mailbox development and doubling in size to 45,000 sq ft. This will be our design concept shop, which will showcase all our ideas and vision on how our stores will look going forward. We believe we are creating an unrivalled retail destination, showcasing the best edit of brands within an inspiring luxury environment, providing the ultimate customer experience. — TB: Has the Mailbox destination been a success for Harvey Nichols in the past? AB: Retail in Birmingham has undergone a tremendous transformation since we first opened our doors in The Mailbox in 2001. This year we are seeing yet another transformation. The new Harvey Nichols Birmingham store is part of the wider £10m regeneration of Birmingham city centre, which shows such huge confidence in Birmingham and its future. Harvey Nichols Birmingham has always been
JULY 2015 | INTERVIEW | 23
a trailblazer, and we are certain the confidence in Birmingham’s retail scene through this investment will encourage other big name luxury retailers to view the Mailbox as the home of luxury retail. — TB: What will be on offer in the new-look store? AB: It will showcase over 200 of the world’s most desirable brands across menswear, womenswear, beauty, food and wine, many of which will be exclusive to Harvey Nichols Birmingham. The exquisite edit of labels will be complemented by exceptional services throughout the store, such as our highly trained Style Concierge team, which will be on hand to offer expert advice on seasonal trends and styling tips across fashion and beauty. We have a very strong business in Birmingham for menswear, however we are always looking to improve and expand our brand mix, and have added Balenciaga RTW, accessories and sneakers as well as Neil Barrett, who is performing phenomenally well for us across all our channels. In addition, we are introducing Yeezy Season 1, Pajaar Outerwear, Levi’s and John Elliott. — TB: How will the Birmingham store be different? AB: It will epitomise the future of retail through digital innovation, from the newly launched loyalty app and mobile payments, to a stateof-the-art 360-degree mirror and digital way finders. Harvey Nichols is also taking its window displays and visual merchandising to a new level, with the introduction of a high-impact digital screen positioned above the main Harvey Nichols entrance, accessible through the Mailbox mall. — TB: Are bricks-and-mortar stores still top priority for Harvey Nichols, or has the online business overtaken it? AB: The way people shop is changing. The difference between online commerce and offline commerce is blurring. With investment in our website, we’ve brought new services to our online customer that are traditionally found in-store. And through new technology in-store we will be providing a more digital experience for our in-store customer. The aim is to create an omnichannel service for our customers. — TB: How many different buyers are under your guidance? AB: I am responsible for a team of around 60. At the beginning of the buying process, planning is essential to ensure the teams are aligned with a single seasonal vision and that our edits are curated with our customers in mind, as they are
at the heart of everything we do. There is always a lot of analysis of the previous season – what’s worked and what hasn’t. However, I think it’s important to push the boundaries and constantly try and introduce new brands to the customer. But, if we’re bringing in new brands, it’s important to do it slowly and test the customer’s reaction. — TB: Which brands are performing best for you, and which new labels have you brought in? AB: Givenchy, Balmain, Neil Barrett, Dsquared and Moncler are some of our best-performing brands on menswear. New labels include Fear of God, FourTwoFour on Fairfax, Adyn, John Elliot, One Stroke, Phenomenon, Rochambeau, Premium and GMC (Gods Masterful Children). For accessories, new brands include Carrynest, Cinzia Araia and Hender Scheme. — TB: Are tourists still of massive importance to the success of the Knightsbridge store? AB: We enjoy a loyal home customer, but the international customer is also important to trade. Each year we see an influx of affluent international customers to the city, and this is increasing year on year. We see trade spike during international holidays such as Chinese New Year and Eid al-Fitr. However, overall, the majority of our business comes from our home customer. — TB: What is the new loyalty app all about? What are the benefits? AB: Harvey Nichols’ first loyalty programme is an app-only scheme that rewards customers for each and every pound spent. The programme focuses on offering indulgent experiences in addition to cash-back vouchers. The more purchases you make, the further you climb up the points ladder, unlocking ever-increasing spectacular and unique rewards, from a simple smoothie to a massage or a champagne dinner for four at the OXO Tower. The programme is open to every customer, and benefits are available from day one and can be used in-store every time you visit. — TB: Is the Style Academy something new for Harvey Nichols employees? AB: The Harvey Nichols Style Academy is a new training programme that gives our staff the skill set and confidence to deliver the highest level of service to our customers. The programme teaches staff about styling, seasonal trends, as well as different body shapes and how to complement them through dress. They also gain knowledge on grooming and hair styling.
JULY 2015 | MODA | PROMOTION | 24
THE ESSENTIAL EDIT Moda Gent returns to Birmingham’s NEC on 9-11 August, taking place in conjunction with Moda Footwear, Select and The Loft for a truly comprehensive presentation of s/s 16. — THE LOFT Pop-up marketplace The Loft presents a curated selection of consumer brands with a fast-fashion vibe. Headlining this season are Bjorn Borg, Lizard King, Something Different and The Mountain, offering an eclectic round-up of the sector’s must-have labels right here, right now.
SELECT OLYMP
Presenting an edit of contemporary and directional men’s fashion, Select sits between Moda Gent and Moda Footwear, seamlessly combining the trade’s key sectors. Specialising in modern heritage brands, Select has launched seasonal collections for Wrangler, Duck & Cover, 1 Like No Other, J Shoes and Tyler & Tyler and returns this season with an enhanced selection of labels for the contemporary sector including Knightsbridge, Plain Chaos, Caliban, Il Telaio, Justin Reece and Bunker.
BENVENUTO
MODA FOOTWEAR Taking place in conjunction with Moda Gent, Moda Footwear offers a complement of shoes to buyers in the apparel sector. This season sees the show welcome of a host of new names, including Sebago and Orca Bay, alongside returning favourites Hush Puppies, Dr Marten’s, Base London, Bugatti, Barker Shoes and Chatham.
IKON
DIGEL
AIGLE
ORCA BAY
KNIGHTSBRIDGE
MODA GENT: 6th Sense • Allsize • Amanda Christensen • Ashwood Luggage & Accessories • Atelier Torino • Baileys & Giordano • Ben Green • Benvenuto • Bertoni • Bjorn Borg • Bladen • Brax • Brook Taverner • Brühl • Bruno Saint Hilaire • Cabano • CADOGAN • Caliban • Calvin Klein Socks • Camel Active • Campione • Carabou • Casamoda • Cavani • Claudio Lugli • Club of Comfort • Colour & Sons • Corpus Line • D555 • Dario Beltran • Dasmarca Hat • Digel • DML Jeans • Double Two • Douglas & Grahame • Duke Clothing • Ed Baxter Clothing • Eden Park • Espionage Clothing • Eterna • Falke UK • Farah Classic • Florida Royal Polo Team • Future Cut Cloths • Fynch-Hatton • Gaastra • Gabicci • Gibson • Gloverall • Gurteen • H J Hall • Hattric • Hawkins & Shepherd • Hunt & Holditch • Il Telaio • Jockey • Jupiter Jackets • Kam Jeanswear • Knightsbridge Neckwear • Laser Jeans • Lizard King • M2C2 • Maddox Street London • Mag Mouch Sophos • Magee • Malcolm Hall Design • Meyer-Hosen • Monti Belts • Morley • Morley • North 56.4 • Oakman • Olymp • Pantherella • Peter England • Peter Gribby • Peter Scott • Plain Chaos • R2 Westbrook • Redpoint • Remus Uomo • Replika Jean CPH • Rialto • Richmart • Rockford • Rocola • S4 • Seidensticker • Skopes Menswear • Something Different • Souled Out • Split Star • Swade • The British Belt Company • The Label • Tilley Hats • Timberland • Tom Hagan • Tootal Pyramid • Twisted Faith • Venti • Viyella • Voeut • Warrior Clothing • Wilson & Sloane • Wilvorst • Without Prejudice • Wrangler MODA FOOTWEAR: A&A Shoes • Aeros • Aerosoles • Agilis Barcelona • Aigle • Air4men by Caprice • Airtech • Allrounder • Alpe • Ameri Bag • Analpa • Annabelle • Anne Michelle • Antishokk by Caprice • Ara • Art Footwear • Azor la Mode • BambooA • Barbour • Barker Shoes • Base London • Bass3d • Bedroom Athletics • Belide • Bernie Mev • Beta • Betsy • Birkenstock • Bisue Ballerinas • Blink • Blundstone • Bo-Bell • Bobux • Boulevard • Brakeburn • Brenda Zaro • Brian James Footwear • Bronx • Bugatti • Bunker • Butterfly Twists • Calzados Frank • Caprice • Cat Footwear • Catesby Goodyear Welted • Catimini • Cats Eyes • Cefalu • Charles Southwell • Chatham • Chatterbox • Cherag • Cherry Blossom • Chix • Cinzia Soft • City Shoes • Cloud Footwear • Collonil • Comfort Plus • Comfort Shoe Warehouse • Coolers • Coolers Premier • Cosies • Cosy Comfort • Cotswold Collection • Da Bella • DB Easy B • DB Shoes • DEK • Dickies • Dolcis • Down to Earth • Dr Keller • Dr Lightfoot • Dr Martens • Dude Shoes • Dunlop • Duvet Ducks • Eaze • Edge • El Naturalista • Ella Shoes • Ellie D • Envy • Equity Shoes • Euroleathers • Ewe • Fabulous Fabs • Felmini • Fish N Chips • Flossy Shoes • Fly London • Footwear Today • Four Seasons • Froddo • Front London • Gardiner’s Footwear Specialists
JULY 2015 | MODA | PROMOTION | 25
BE2B Having relocated to its own high-profile area immediately adjacent to the footwear catwalk, the BE2B hub strengthens its position as the industry’s go-to section for retail expertise. Hosting industry experts such as multi-channel software provider Touchretail, stock management and Epos expert Top to Toe and 360 degree product photography specialist Orbitvu, BE2B provides cutting-edge solutions for the contemporary retailer.
RIDER
GENT CAFÉ Located in the centre of Hall 6, the Gent Café will once again play host to live jazz music by the Greg Davis Trio within the relaxed setting of a dedicated break out plaza. Adding a chilled-out ambience to the business of buying, the Gent Café will present live performances during its happy hour events. It will also host the Breakfast Club following its successful debut last season. Sponsored by iconic tailoring label Skopes, the Breakfast Club rewards dedicated menswear buyers arriving at Hall 6 with a free coffee and croissant, helping to get a day of buying off to the perfect start.
CAMEL ACTIVE
GAASTRA
RAISE A GLASS As the industry’s national event, Moda Gent goes beyond the aisles to offer an unrivalled opportunity to network with like-minded professionals. From the complimentary drinks reception at the end of day one to socialising after-hours, the show is the essential meeting place for all aspects of the trade.
TIMBERLAND
LEGERO
ATELIER TORINO
HUSH PUPPIES
XTI
MAGEE
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JULY 2015 | PRODUCT NEWS | 27
P R O D U C T
LONDON LIFE Drawing on its roots for s/s 16, British label Parka London looks to the capital to celebrate its quirks and uniqueness. From the versatility of the people and activities alike, the brand focuses on the unpredictability of British spring time – forming a coherent and versatile range of outerwear. At the heart of the collection sit parkas, inspired by utilitywear synonymous with London street trends. Double-weave cottons, multi-pocket jackets, short shirt jackets and various parka weights give the range a premium feel. Drawing on functionality, fabrication is key; bonded cottons onto mesh linings and waterproof coatings are a core focus for the range. Lightweight versatility with superfine, luxe fabrics, semi lined and unlined with bound internals allows enough warmth for the cooler days. Finally, layering, textures and the addition of print add a new dimension to Parka London’s latest offering, set in a colour palette of khaki, olives, buttery tan, blues and dusky greys, offset with acidic pastels of lime, emerald, sulphur and dusky pinks. —
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RADAR Spotlighting style
NATURAL INSPIRATION Komono bases its s/s 15 collection around visionary American architect John Lautner. The accessories brand has taken inspiration for its latest range of sunglasses from the 60s architect, who was known for his use of progressive design with a space-age flair. The s/s 15 range plays on classic 60s Los Angeles design, with large dramatic frames, bold colours and round shapes featuring throughout. Meanwhile, styles such as the Mirror Series, Bennet and Renee incorporate angular shapes for classic cool design. —
ARCHER + PEYTON ESTABLISHED: 2014 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Crafted in Italy, the brand’s range of luxury socks channel a contemporary meets heritage vibe that’s aimed at the discerning modern gentleman. — HISTORY: Archer + Peyton was created from a desire to deliver a refined collection of men’s socks that complemented rather than competed with suits and outfits. Established in 2014, the London brand offers a collection of luxury and everyday socks, which are designed in the capital and produced in Italy. Garments are crafted with care and attention to detail by a skilled production team. Meanwhile, materials are sourced from Italian yarn producers who have factories in Egypt, where the cotton is harvested, and in Italy where raw cotton is worked into thread and then dyed accordingly. By choosing to hire its production team through small family owned factories, the label keeps a close eye on every stage of the process. The brand maintains strong relationships with its production workers, taking great pride in knowing the full supply chain. The result is four luxury lines available online through the brand’s website www.archerandpeyton.com and in selected stockists including Autograph Menswear, The Merchant’s House Shop and Patey Hats. The collections include the Cosmopolitan Collection, Everyday Luxury, Classics and Swiss Dots. Wholesale prices for the brand’s cotton socks range from £4.50 to £7 per pair, while cashmere options start from £35 per pair. —
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PRODUCT NEWS Spotlighting style
PITCH PERFECT Police has announced that international Brazilian football player Neymar Jr will stay on as brand ambassador for a further two years. The eyewear label confirmed the signing, which will see the continuation of what has been a successful partnership with Neymar Jr, who is a big hit on and off the pitch. The sports star embodies various qualities of the brand, even providing inspiration for previous collections. In 2014, the label’s eyewear collection featured a special model – the Neymar Jr 1 – dedicated to the footballer. —
POOL SLYDE STYLE New to the market for 2015, summer footwear brand Slydes has launched a range of laid-back sandal-style shoes fit for wearing at the pool side. The Slydes collection embodies a streetwear look aimed at the contemporary fashion market. Key patterns include monochrome, tropical, photographs, faux leather, metallic and animal prints. Slydes is stocked at Asos, Urban Outfitters, The Idle Man and Foot Asylum, among others. —
STYLE HIGHLIGHT
NEW DIRECTIONS Iconic surfwear label Quiksilver enters the new season under the creative helm of new CEO Pierre Agnes. The brand’s forthcoming creative blueprint echoes the surf community in the 70s and 80s as the company approaches its 50th anniversary in 2019. Speaking on the future creative direction of Quiksilver, Agnes says, “We want to live and document real travel stories and experiences from people within our brand, and in the process connect with local artists, musicians and designers to grow our creative community. Collaborating, looking for positives and documenting this process allows us to respond and develop a unique visual language that’s raw, honest and undeniably Quiksilver.” —
KICKERS X STAR WARS Iconic footwear brand Kickers has collaborated with Star Wars to produce a special limited-edition collection of shoes for both adults and children. The infamous Darth Vader and Stormtroppers adorn boots, while Yoda, Darth Vader and Tie Fighters have been drawn on the classic Kick Hi silhouette. —
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JULY 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 32
DUCHAMP PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8746 4003
DANIEL WELLINGTON £179 WWW.DANIELWELLINGTON.COM
FRENN €28.80 0035 8503412887
PITTARDS £55.80 07896 922455
JAEGER £25 020 7200 4000
SCOTCH & SODA £20 020 3137 3901
DALACO £6.95 01363 777800
FINISHING TOUCHES A dash of print from a silk paisley scarf, a hint of colour on cufflinks, and texture in the shape of leathers, woven ties and straw effect hats – dressing well this season is all about the detail. — Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
ARNOLD WILLS £20 01572 824385
JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN £29.50 01343 554000
SIMON CARTER £65 020 8683 4475
For wholesale enquiries, please contact Ward Mann or Anna Gras at Double H Agency Ward - ward.doubleh@gmail.com / +44 (0)7810 872 320 Anna - anna.doubleh@gmail.com / +44 (0)203 432 6387 www.uk.eden-park.com Facebook/EdenParkUK
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FRIEND OR FAUX £8 020 7739 7620
JULY 2015 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 34
QUIKSILVER £10 020 7392 4020
ALPINESTARS £8 0039 4235286
AHEAD OF THE GAME Essential buys for any young fashion retailer, baseball caps and snapbacks return for the new season with a focus on interesting finishes. Expect bird motifs, photo-print designs and leather applications. —
VOLCOM £13.40 020 7729 2744 BJORN BORG £10 020 7637 1395
NICCE £8.33 07725 205743
HYPE £10 0116 623 048
SIKSILK £11 075311 63063 CAYLER & SONS £11.48 020 7012 1420
Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
OLOW X JEAN JULLIEN £15 020 7012 1420
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JULY 2015 | PROFILE | LAMBERT’S YARD | 36
NORTHERN AMBITION Bringing not just a fashion store but a whole new retail concept to the city of Leeds, Lambert’s Yard has become an overnight success. Rebecca Jackson caught up with retail director Adam Jagger to find out more about the shopping destination on everyone’s lips. — If nothing else should come from this year’s general election, the term “northern powerhouse”, now firmly in the political lexicon, puts the spotlight on the North of England. In October 2013, before the aforementioned phrase had graced George Osborne’s lips, a popup store called Lambert’s Yard launched in a lessthan-conventional space – one that represents over 400 years of history. Nestled on Lower Briggate in Leeds, the store takes its name from the Lambert family, a wealthy family of grocers that inhabited the building during the 19th century. It’s thought the Grade II listed house, with courtyard and arcade, built around 1600, and is probably one of the oldest still standing in the city. After years of being left to grow into a dilapidated state, until recently the building had a shell-like structure – the perfect starting point for a retail venture with a difference. After utilising the popular pop-up business trend, a successful launch ensued and the shop took up permanent residency in the space during November last year. “We got great feedback from the pop-up store and lots of interest while we were occupying the space,” says Adam Jagger, retail director of Lambert’s Yard.
Working with the original features of the building, Jagger – who has an impressive fashion CV, having held top buying positions at Sarah Coggles, Topman and Asos – and his team created a space with an end result that channels a contemporary heritage vibe. Via a collaboration with art director Jonny Buttons, Jagger worked to create in-store features such as the moveable fixtures and fittings, which allow the team to change the position of clothing rails, tables and display systems – transforming the in-store aesthetic. Split over three levels, Lambert’s Yard incorporates a bar and restaurant called Rare, a retail area and an event space on the top floor. On location alone, it’s a refreshing concept. Leeds has not seen a project of this kind before. Labels only available in London have a new place – a new audience. After all, it might be presumed that a project as ambitious as this should be based in Manchester, often the assumed capital of the North. However, after years of large investments and ambitious building projects, Leeds is attracting a wealth of new independent business start-ups. “Leeds is undergoing a massive regeneration at the moment,” says Jagger. “It feels a bit like East London five or six years ago,
before it became commercialised. It’s a very exciting time for the city and for independents wanting to establish themselves here. London’s got its place and that’s fine, but I feel there’s a movement in Leeds.” With great connections by rail and air, the city is a viable travel option for clients travelling from cities near and far. Good connections are important for Jagger, too, as buying is done in a number of different locations including Manchester and London, as well as internationally in cities such as Paris. However, the main reason Lambert’s Yard has found success so early on is its ability to diversify through the creation of something different from the norm, offering premium, niche one-off brands. And though not ignoring London and the London fashion scene, the retailer has taken a different tack, supporting local labels as well as London and international names. It’s northern – and proud of it. “This is important so that we can keep up with the fast pace of the fashion industry, which is constantly evolving,” says Jagger. “We wanted an independent that was different. We stock premium one-off brands, offering crafted clothing.
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“We’re very niche and that’s worked for us so far,” he continues. “Our product mix is unlike any other store in Leeds. We’re introducing brands that aren’t readily available to many people who live in the area.” This is certainly reflected in the choice of contemporary labels stocked in-store which, although changing frequently, currently include the likes of Blood Brother, Dobson, Stutterheim, Campbell Cole and Kestin Hare. Forward ordering of the store’s menswear and womenswear, homeware and accessories range is restricted, with buying staggered throughout the year. This way, Jagger is able to keep an eye on the latest consumer-driven trends. And it’s an approach that keeps the brand mix fresh. Strategic business moves such as this have helped Lambert’s Yard experience success early on. However, the retailer has also benefited from the recent retail investment in the area – attracting more shoppers than ever before. Thanks to the recent retail developments within the city, including the opening of indoor shopping destination Trinity Leeds last year and Victoria Gate, which is set to open at the end of 2016, Leeds is confidently maintaining its position as the third most successful city for retail
JULY 2015 | PROFILE | LAMBERT’S YARD | 37
in England. Although not short of commercial retail businesses, there is also a growing sense of independent ventures, as attention falls on the less commercial parts of the city. “Footfall is low outside the area we are positioned in, but that’s changing,” says Jagger. “Round here there is so much going on and so much is about to happen that we should see a change in the number of independents directly surrounding us – which can only be a good thing.” There is also a growing recognition of local industry talent; of future designers, buyers and stylists. “I feel there is a lot of up-and-coming talent in Leeds,” says Jagger. “We’re currently working closely with the Centre for Fashion Enterprise (CFE) to reach out to students and hopefully spot and nurture some local talent, and Leeds College of Art has started a fashion marketing course that we’re going to work closely with. I’m going to give guest talks, for example. We’re also working with Kirklees College and Leeds University and hosting a video launch for the students as a venue where they can watch their end-of-year projects in the event space upstairs.” Local talent is clearly something Jagger and the team are keen to support. One way this has
been achieved is through creative events held in the in-store concept space. Based on the top floor of the building, the “industrial craft events” are aimed at the store’s design-conscious target market. “I want it to be an interactive space; a hub for creative people in Leeds to be able to gather,” says Jagger. “There isn’t really anywhere outside London that does this. I want Lambert’s Yard to be that place.” Events held in-store so far include brand launches for labels such as Sheffield urban apparel label Sgr Skl, art exhibitions, book launch parties and workshops. More recently, the store hosted The Leodis Forum 4: The Business of Fashion event, an evening that saw buyers, manufacturers, designers, representatives from start-up brands and many more gather to listen to and to give talks about the British independent fashion industry. It seems Lambert’s Yard’s concept is to constantly surprise visitors, keeping them on their toes in every element. It is this ethos that has enabled the store to do more than just survive its first year as a permanent business, but to thrive. It’s managed to establish itself as an innovative retail concept – with or without its northern tag.
LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN
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JULY 2015 | REVIEW | 38
GIEVES & HAWKES
BURBERRY
AGI & SAM
MATTHEW MILLER
CRAIG GREEN
ALEX MULLINS
XANDER ZHOU
TIGER OF SWEDEN
Joining the likes of Paris, New York and Milan, London Collections: Men (LC:M) has firmly cemented itself as one of the key global menswear fashion weeks, attracting a plethora of home-grown talent and international names. MWB picks the trends to emerge for s/s 16. — CASELY-HAYFORD
E.TAUTZ
GREEN PARTY
SPREAD THE WORD
Although primarily a more toned-down offering this season in terms of colour, there was one shade spotted throughout the s/s 16 collections – green. Less wearable than some ranges, Craig Green’s martial arts inspired offering featured primary green, while lime was the colour of the day at Alex Mullins. Sharp tailoring from labels such as Burberry, Tiger of Sweden and Gieves & Hawkes, meanwhile, created the canvas for rich hues of forest green – giving a modern update to the well-cut double-breasted blazer. —
In terms of smaller details, the spotlight for s/s 16 at LC:M shone on collars – 70s-inspired spread collars to be exact. Featuring on loose-fitting shirts at the likes of Matthew Miller, Tiger of Sweden and Xander Zhou, the trend adds a more causal finish to single-breasted blazers. Jackets, meanwhile, incorporated spread collars on lightweight Harrington styles at E.Tautz and waterproof options from British design duo Agi & Sam. —
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JULY 2015 | REVIEW | 39
HARDY AMIES
MARGARET HOWELL
MAHARISHI
ALEX MULLINS
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN
AGI & SAM
CASELY-HAYFORD
LOU DALTON
EARY MEN
TOURNE DE TRANSMISSION
CHRISTOPHER KANE
E.TAUTZ
COACH
GIEVES & HAWKES
TIGER OF SWEDEN
LAYER CAKE
EASILY PERSUADED
WIDE BOY
Lightweight layering was the call of the day for many designers this season and, taking into consideration the typical British weather, the trend was more about practicality than looking stylish. While Hardy Amies teamed single-breasted blazers with summer macs, Burberry saw rubberised rain coats, tailored shorts, shirts and ties. Windbreakers layered with tees and shirts could be seen at Lou Dalton, while CaselyHayford and Coach partnered Harringtons with loose-fit overcoats. —
A stand-out trend for a/w 15, suede is set to make the transition into the summer months, with lightweight pieces dominating LC:M. In terms of texture, suede was key, with Tourne De Transmission offering a slim-cut biker jacket option in grey-beige. And while other styles, such as the suede driving jacket from Gieves & Hawkes, and printed option from Alex Mullins, were among the highlights, it was the bomber jacket that reigned supreme – with Maharishi creating a longline style, and Katie Eary a rich wine suede bomber. —
Wide-legged trousers provided the perfect respite from skinny denims. Championed by brands such as Agi & Sam, Christopher Kane, E.Tautz, Christopher Raeburn and Tiger of Sweden, the trend’s relaxed nature works with both smarter looks and casual styling, and is set to go mainstream this spring. To style, try playing up to their relaxed nature by dressing them down with a pair of minimal trainers and s/s 16’s key outerwear silhouette – the bomber jacket. —
P R O P E R T Y O F G R E AT B R I TA I N
Spring/Summer Collection 2016 www.realmandempire.com @realmandempire 01858 466729
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JULY 2015 | PREVIEW | 41
JACKET REQUIRED Showtime at Jacket Required, at The Old Truman Brewery on 29-30 July, will see yet more new brands enticing buyers to London from all over the globe. Tom Bottomley highlights some of the finest additions for the s/s 16 edition. —
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MELTIN’POT This is a fresh UK launch for a big international player that is sold throughout Europe and is regarded as a denim powerhouse when it comes to washes, fabrics and construction. UK sales are being headed up by Jason Lynch from Label Lab Group, and those who know him will also know he was MD of Miss Sixty in the UK, and in fact brought it to the UK market in the first place. Lynch says, “I was right then, and I am right now. I am very excited about bringing Meltin’Pot to the UK and Irish markets.” About the company, it was in 1967 that one Casimo Romano from Gallipoli in southern Italy started making workwear from denim to supply a growing local demand for tough and durable clothing. The Meltin’Pot brand is still run by the Romano family, and is today directed by Augusto Romano, who has overseen the brand’s rise in prominence across Europe. The UK now lies in waiting. —
SEBAGO
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ABOUT Being brought to the UK by Ian Garside’s WG Flagship Distribution company, and another Jacket Required debut, About is an innovative underwear brand from the Baltics, created for everyone who sees “beauty in function and comfort in cuts and materials”. Oh yes. Targeting a 25-plus customer who likes a bit of wellness-motivated, good-looking product, it combines the latest technological advancements with design trends. Fabrics enriched with extra skin-protection properties are the order of the day. Innovative, natural textile finishing, based on Aloe Vera, beeswax, silk proteins and antibacterial silver is used, and the fits are also pretty good. It’s operated by a company from Lithuania with more than 45 years’ experience in producing underwear. That’s about all you need to know. —
Footwear brand Sebago is reaching the big 7-0 this year, and what better way to celebrate than with a series of limited-edition anniversary shoes? The brand is staying true to its Life Well Crafted mantra, with a range that is bang on trend while also combining heritage and authenticity with modern flair. “Our love for craft is legendary,” says Joe Wallace, vice president of product and design at Sebago. “It shows in the details of everything we make. It is a truly exceptional collection, with modern takes on our heritage-rich designs.” Following the successful introduction of Neoprene to the Docksides for s/s 15, this season sees the continuation of this category with the launch of Neoprene Evolution, using an Ariaprene material, a form of Neoprene with hypo-allergenic, toxic free and water-friendly properties. White rubber bottoms help to pop the rich and vibrant colour palette. —
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JULY 2015 | PREVIEW | 42
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BETHNALS Never before has there been more desire in the industry to “go back to basics”, and that’s what London unisex denim brand Bethnals is all about – simple, fuss-free denim that speaks volumes without the need to be over-styled. For s/s 16, the focus shifts towards the softer and slouchier silhouette. Showing its most relaxed fit to date, the brand is also exploring delicate bleaching effects and open-twill construction. The classic Tommy Worker jacket in a thick indigo stripe is guaranteed to get the Shoreditch beards whipped up into a frenzy. Who knows, they may even go for the razor. —
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GRAYERS A new one for the Brand Progression stable, this could be another thoroughbred brand. The idea came about when Peter Georgiou, Grayers founder and a 10-year Ralph Lauren veteran and history buff, was reading about Britain in the 1950s. At that time, young men were switching from wearing three-piece suits to gray flannel trousers, known as grayers. Grayers were the must-haves in every man’s wardrobe, from British society chaps to American prep schools. Georgiou saw a gap in the market for a well-crafted clothing collection with great fit, top quality and reasonable prices. This is the result, and there’s more colour than you think, with polos, shirts, shorts and all the other summer essentials taken care of. Already sold on Mr. Porter, it’s definitely not a grey day. —
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ORIGINAL GRADE
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LNDN LNDN is the new kid on the menswear block, launching for s/s 16 with an urban cool signature straight out of Shoreditch. Named after its London roots, the label is the brainchild of husband and wife team Lorraine and Ash Johnson, who have run their cult womenswear brand Pyrus for the past ten years. LNDN ticks all the right boxes in terms of fashion credentials, featuring botanical and painterly inspired prints, with all artwork unique and painted by Ash himself. “We really wanted to translate the success of Pyrus into a menswear brand. What that meant was making effortless styles with unique prints that could work as a complete collection or separates to style with denim,” as the man himself explains. The collection also features chambrays, jacquards and linen blends, with shapes ranging from simple shirts to artisan-inspired French Worker Jackets. —
What can you say about footwear guru David Butler other than you can’t keep this man down? Not content with consistently breaking new, as well as relaunching old brands in the UK, he’s now gone and done his own thing on top of it all. Original Grade is the outcome, and top grade it is. Superb summer shoes with a bit more design input than your average beach promenade strollers, in great colours, and all made in Spain. Drawing inspiration from the first real sneakers with style as worn by the Big Men of the NBA in the 1950s, and the imagery of Broadway Danny Rose, Original Grade will gradually release timeless classics around the world. First up, the Costa Blanca Natural Crepe Resort Shoe. This is definitely one to watch. Butler will also be bringing a whole host of other shoe collections to the show, including Chippewa, Rivieras, Espadrij l’originale, Jerusalem Sandals and Windsor Smith. It’s a positive footwear fest. —
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JULY 2015 | PREVIEW | 43
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KENNINGTON Kennington from California was originally established in 1957 by Stan Tendler in his parent’s garage. The label name was picked from an old English atlas, and the logo was trademarked after Stan spotted a 19th-century trade card in an antique store. An unremarkable beginning for a company that would go on to become a West Coast fashion industry force. It was also one of the original brands to show at Magic. Nearly sixty years down the line, and still based in Los Angeles, Stan remains chairman of the board and oversees all designs. Industry veteran Mukesh Desai is bringing it back to the UK for Jacket Required, and there are some great printed shirts, vests, sweats, grey marl hooded sleeveless tees and printed shorts bringing a touch of 50s and 60s California surf style to these shores for s/s 16. —
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NATIVE SHOES A new addition for a number of names* distribution in the UK – which certainly knows a thing or two about a decent shoe – Native Shoes was established in Vancouver, Canada, in 2009, with a vision to create “future classics” by combining iconic, casual silhouettes with the best of evolving technology. The result is future-forward shoes for men, women and kids, too. Distributed in more than 45 countries, Native makes innovative, creative and, above all, superlightweight products. They are also washable, water-resistant and odour-resistant – with air-flow technology to keep your feet super fresh and shock absorbant, among other worthy attributes. This could definitely prove to be a s/s 16 winner. Cool-looking, happy feet. —
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ROUX Jacket Required will see Roux present s/s 16 with its largest collection yet, featuring extended offerings in jersey and outerwear, with a strong focus on the open-hem silhouette first introduced for this autumn/winter’s collection. There are collarless shirts, sweats and zip-through hooded tops – all on a sportswear-inspired casual theme. Other pieces of note include a re-worked M-52 parka, a funnel collared Breaker jacket and a vented lamb’s suede bomber – all complementing the soft cotton tapered chinos and light loopback jersey sweats, joggers and shorts. Originally launched in August 2014, this young brand is the creation of designer Greg White and advertising agency Kastner & Partners (K&P). Drawing on 10 years’ experience working in London’s Soho, Roux is inspired by the people, architecture and style that embody the area. —
INTRODUCING THE NEW SPRING / SUMMER 2016 RANGE
Sales Enquiries : Just Consultancies Tel : 0207 739 7620 | international@justconsultancies.co.uk
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JULY 2015 | BRANDS | 47
THE BUYERS’ GUIDE MWB takes a look into the news, trends and developments of s/s 16, bringing together your comprehensive guide to the new season. —
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JOULES The new season at Joules sees “outdoors, adventure and wanderlust” influence its latest collection, with silhouettes relaxed and comfortable, and colours rich and bold. The brand’s sub-range, Right as Rain, welcomes a new addition in the shape of the waterproof mac in soft-washed yellow, while the Seager rubber-coated mac joins the line-up in dark charcoal. Other new additions will see a collection of swimwear with sealife-inspired prints, and a larger selection of summer chino shorts. — p
NUDIE JEANS Nudie Jeans consistently sources inspiration from its hometown in Sweden and the local Nordic weather, and s/s 16 is no exception. Denim highlights include deep-washed indigo, marbled and broken–in black, and heavy-worn, hand-repaired 70s blues. A lightweight outerwear capsule also features, with Japanese nylons, lamb nappa and waxed cottons across parkas, bombers and versatile worker jackets key. Utilitarian meets contemporary heritage in a range of small leather accessories, with “soft accessories” such as scarves, socks and underwear also available. — t
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FARAH Farah’s s/s 16 collection adheres to its brand ethos of creating tailored and understated garments that are progressive through their construction, shape and silhouette. Blending performance fabrics and a vibrant colour palette, it offers structured nylon cotton blends combined with a range of technical outerwear to create a premium sportswear feel. Prints utilise primary colours, creating graphic geometric and figurative patterns, alongside a vibrant colour palette focused on rich shades of red, green and blue with modern colour pops of yellow and pink. —
British label Lavenham continues to build on its equestrian roots and brand heritage this season, with a range that combines easy-to-wear jackets and waistcoats with fashion-forward additions designed by the brand’s Japanese design team. Outer fabrics include the signature water-resistant polyester and Brisbane Moss cotton in a series of commercial colour choices. Lining fabrics, meanwhile, include patterns, stripes and textures normally found in formal men’s suiting. — >>>
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JULY 2015 | BRANDS | 48
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ROAMERS & SEEKERS Following the success of its debut a/w 15 collection, this season sees British menswear label Roamers & Seekers venturing into the US market. The brand’s 70-piece s/s 16 collection centres on clean styling and classic British design, providing easy-to-wear pieces created to be timeless and made to last. Highlights include fuse-bonded fabrics, unstructured tailoring and exclusive prints for outerwear. Also key is a progressive shirt programme and the label’s expansion into swimwear. —
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WEEKEND OFFENDER Returning with its latest s/s collection is Weekend Offender. Key pieces include the Sedgwick nylon over-shirt with cotton jersey lining; cotton woven cargo shorts with a “paper-touch” feel; a cotton short-sleeve shirt with an all-over bird print; and a cotton T-shirt with bird print on the neck and chest pocket. Extra layers are provided by a cotton fleece hoody with the brand’s infamous logo printed on the front chest, and a nylon hooded jacket featuring contrast mesh lining and trims as well as a sleeve pocket with reflective branding. —
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EDEN PARK Eden Park’s s/s 16 collection takes its inspiration from South Africa and its landscapes. Preppy and Ivy League influences are seen throughout the brand’s emblematic pieces – jersey, linen shirts and Bermuda shorts. Spring outfits include graphics, quality yarns, cotton and linen blazers, Chambray and check shirts. The colour palette, meanwhile, features shades of blue and pink, accented with khaki, red and yellow. Other highlights include cotton chinos, twisted yarn jumpers and used-look military inspirations. —
Although not visible at first glance, prints dominate the s/s 16 shirting offer from German label Olymp in its newest collection, Sea Haze. Cuts are clean and surface patterns are minimal, but are there nonetheless. Colours range from mint through to green and azure blue, inspired by coastal landscapes, juxtaposed with bold orange to create an interesting contrast. Design inspiration, meanwhile, comes from sports and streetwear, tailored to the younger customer alongside its formal business model. —
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COLOURS & SONS Colours & Sons’ brand ethos sees the label stand for “fashionable, mobile, dynamic and sporty”, which results in it targeting consumers with a young and active attitude rather than those within a specific age bracket. Knitwear and shirts make up the core of Colours & Sons’ offer. These pieces are complemented by sports jackets, down jackets and accessories. Colour schemes are carefully balanced within in each product group. —
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MERC The look of Merc’s s/s 16 collection is heavily influenced by the 60s and 70s – namely the peak of 60s Soho, where the streets were alive with the chant of, “We are the Mods”. Signature looks include smart and slim cut jackets mixed with Sta press trousers. Tailored check trousers, vintage-look cotton knitted polos and button-down check shirts all feature and are teamed with slim-fit shorts. Geometric prints and paisleys are key, and are joined by new “resort” patterns. Colours include 70s-inspired hues of orange, green and brown, contrasted by bold and bright shades. —
JOHN SMEDLEY Making reference to the craftsmanship elements of old, John Smedley’s latest offering – Contemporary History – puts a modern twist on heritage styling. Focusing on heavyweight textures and tone-on-tone pattern, the collection is designed to showcase the brand’s use of luxury fibres. Key shades for the new season include midnight blue, silver and Baltic blue, while signature pieces draw inspiration from archive photography of John Smedley’s Lea Mills factory, transforming it into intarsia knits and new tailored styles. —
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GABICCI VINTAGE Gabicci Vintage has always played a vital part in music and youth culture, worn by the likes of The Specials and Bob Marley and, more recently, Labrinth and Maverick Sabre. The new season sees the brand play homage to its roots, to Mod culture past and present, bringing together knitwear, button-down woven shirts and tailored jackets, blended with design inspiration taken from the catwalk. Attention to detail is at the forefront of every collection, with the brand’s heavy gold G remaining an iconic symbol. —
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SUBTLE HINTS Moving away from bold tropical patterns and statement checks of previous seasons, shirting welcomes a more subtle trend for s/s 16 – micro prints. From intricate floral designs through to barely there polka-dot finishes, the key really does lie in the detail when it comes to one of the coming season’s most dominant shirt trends. For British label Maddox Street London, inspiration is drawn from the English country gent, with the continued use of Liberty intricate floral fabrics, used both as shirting and in subtle detailing. Beneath the classic stripe and check designs at Hatico, meanwhile, minimalist prints are the focus for the new season, in a colour palette of blues, green, rose, viola and orange tones. Blue remains a key colour choice for young fashion-led shirt label Venti, which also welcomes the unveiling of Venti Edition – a combination of Venti Black Label and Venti Limited Edition. The brand steers away from the classic check, updating its offer with a polka-dot print in fine threaded, highly twined 100 per cent natural stretch cotton. For German label Digel, meanwhile, s/s 16 is the season of print and pattern. In addition to small graphic all-over prints, the direction of the trend is towards repeat-patterned, high-contrast designs. Denim, however, remains the all-purpose answer for the summer shirt, given a novel touch for the new season with tonal, small patterning in a garment wash. The story is much the same at shirt label Pure, where prints have been incorporated into the new offering, with exclusive digital designs being developed and produced in Italy, while 1 Like No Other looks towards the art world for influence, citing Frank Stella, Sonia Delaunay and Japanese artist Hiroshige as key points of reference. New additions to Arrow’s s/s 16 collection, meanwhile, include the white shark collar in a fitted 102cm waist, and an all-over paisley graphic print on a white and blue colour story. Eterna welcomes summer semi-plains and innovative weave patterns, with highlights including dots in print or in jacquard patterns, minimalistic designs and micro plaid finishes. Finally, the new season at shirt specialist Olymp plays host to a number of intricate, barely visible prints, with small collars and sportswear elements continuing to define the collection. —
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SPORTING ACHIEVEMENT The sports-casualwear hybrid, which has been a popular option within menswear for the past two seasons, shows no signs of fading away if the first look at s/s 16 is anything to go by. As the more mainstream fashion labels draw influence from sportswear, sweats, drawstring detailing and functionality can be spotted throughout the new season’s offering. Now a complete lifestyle brand, Brax takes a relaxed approach to s/s 16, with crew-neck grey marls, bomber jackets and Pima cotton tees and polo shirts sitting next to its signature trouser offer. At German trouser label Mac, technical, sportive materials and purist designs form the basis of the brand’s Clean Athlete collection. New for s/s 16 is the hooded jacket, designed to be worn with the Pique and melange jogging bottoms. At CG Club of Gents, the focus remains on trend-led designs for the younger consumer. The jog-jean continues to be a bestseller, with elasticated waistbands and trouser leg cuffs, while denim chinos are revamped with hidden pockets. The new season at Atelier Gardeur, meanwhile, sees a renewed focus on giving wearers the best possible cut and fit. New additions to the s/s 16 offer include a 5-pocket trouser and flat front style. Sporty slacks with sportswear details such as drawstring ties and knitted trims make for a relaxed look, while denim flat fronts with maritime details move into the foreground. Finally, Benvenuto Purple marries smart businesswear with function this season. The sneaker suit combines a jersey blazer with activewear pants, finished off with stretch shirts with mesh lining and reflector details. —
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MODERN MILITARY While military influences are hardly revolutionary when it comes to menswear, this season sees the trend receive a modern twist across a number of both classic and contemporary brands. Outerwear label S4 offers a collection of field jackets, coats and blousons, but it is the streamlined city parka in traditional khaki that’s the real highlight. Steering down the more traditional route in terms of camo print, Woolrich presents a series of ultralight bomber jackets incorporating a new Komatsu 20-denier HD rip-stop fabric. A new launch from trouser specialist Bruhl for s/s 16, Bruhl Bros focuses on the young, fashion-conscious menswear market, with slimmer silhouettes, lower-rise waistlines and a 40cm ankle width. Fynch Hatton, meanwhile, takes more of an explorer influence this season, presenting safari jackets, polo shirts in luxury-cotton, jersey-melange and garment washed styles, all in a colour palette of neutrals, olives and khakis. Functionality, meanwhile, is key to the s/s 16 collection from British label Parka London. Double-weave cottons, multi-pocket jackets, short shirt jackets and camo prints all add gravitas to the military trend this season. Another brand to favour hints of khaki is Scandinavian label Suit, which offers a minimal hooded bomber jacket in its latest offering, retaining the minimal design element British label Roamers & Seekers has also achieved. While only in its second season, the fledgling label offers a comprehensive outerwear range, with highlights including fuse-bonded fabric, unstructured tailoring and exclusive prints. Denim label Nagano interprets the military theme with fabrications such as canvas and twill, twice dyed and faded – buyers can expect a colour palette of cool indigo, sandy mustard and stone green. One brand to capture the modern military trend perfectly is British label Realm & Empire. Taking inspiration from the British Army’s WWII pioneering Long Range Desert Group, favourites of the new collection include the lightweight, wind and shower resistant Sandstorm Smock, Ghost Patrol workwear jacket with utility pockets and garment-washed Combat Overshirt. —
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GET SHORTY Usually a staple within any man’s holiday wardrobe, shorts are back with a vengeance this season, moving away from the more daring running short and towards the mid-lower thigh. Lifestyle label Camel Active looks to the ocean for s/s 16, with an understated, sometimes nautical touch. Shorts come in a series of patterned varieties with toneon-tone prints, as well as various denim washes with broken and repaired features. Another brand to be inspired by travels is Calamar, which looks to Barcelona this season, offering a series of maritime classics such as Breton stripes and denim shorts, all in a colour palette of red, white and blue. Suit, meanwhile, offers a looser-cut, tailored option, designed to be worn with smarter pieces for an alternative city look. Trouser specialist Hattric, however, puts the focus on garment dyed Bermuda shorts, in plain and floral prints. Highlights include the Bermuda shorts in jogg denim, printed gabardine used for chino Bermuda styles and the narrow 5-pocket Bermuda short with turned up printed seam. Roy Robson continues this season’s penchant for Bermudas, with cargo and chino options available for s/s 16. The focus is on garment-dyed finishes, a range of stretch cotton fabrics and new weave patterns. —
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JULY 2015 | RETAIL | 58
RETAILER ROUND-UP Autumn will be with us before we know it, but what’s this season been like on the shop floor, and what’s new going forward? Tom Bottomley asked retailers, both well-established and new, for their views. —
SAM WHITLOCK
MARK TAYLOR DIRECTOR, POCKETS SHREWSBURY, NEWCASTLE-UNDER-LYME, WORCESTER, HANLEY AND NANTWICH — How was Pitti for you, see anything interesting? It was a great show with all the Italian brands, but there were also some really good English labels showing there. One we liked that we might pick up was Harris Wharf – a brand by an Italian brother and sister who live in London and produce in Italy. There are some great unstructured jackets in linen mixes and jersey. It’s really easy to wear either smart or casual. Penrose London was strong once again for ties, and we placed an order there. Brands such as Private White V.C. and Barena were also worth noting. — How’s business been in general? It’s been good – we’ve had a strong season, especially on the more formal side in the last couple of months with weddings and horseracing occasions. The soft tailoring we do has once again really helped on that front, with the usual bestsellers being Boss, Paul Smith and Canali. On shirting, Eton Shirts is number one. Younger guys tend to want to mix-and-match jackets and trousers, rather than wear full suits, so buying strategy wise we’re looking at that more going forward. — When do you go on Sale? This month. It’s crazy that so many retailers went on Sale in early June. The summer season had barely started. Men don’t buy like women, who buy well in advance of a season – they buy when they need something. They open their suitcases up for holiday, realise their shorts don’t fit and go out and buy three pairs. —
OWNER, STYLECREEP BRENTFORD — You started out as an online business, so when did you open the shop? I set up my store Stylecreep.com online for s/s 13 while working from my shed, and moved into a 1,500 sq ft old water-pumping station in Brentford in August 2014 – opening a store on site too. It’s a really cool, old building, split across two open-plan floors. We operate 100 per cent from here. — Aren’t you a bit out of the way? I’d seen a lot of great indies with great brands – in supposedly great shopping locations – disappearing. So I wanted to do things a little differently. We’re set off the high street on an old cobbled estate, so it’s more of a destination. Our footfall is substantially lower than a high-street location, but our conversion rate and average orders are substantially higher. Our location has allowed us to create a really nice environment to visit, rather than trying to cram our full offer into a tiny shop unit. Growth has been steady. We’re re-investing every penny, and working harder to reach our clients. The days of just relying on a busy high street to send customers your way are long gone. — What brands are working for you? Labels that have performed well for us this season are Cav Empt, Champion, Filson, Ben Davis, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Lacoste Live, Clarks Originals, Sunspel, Grenson YMC and Folk. There’s also been a move back to workwear and functional pieces. Ben Davis ticks the boxes, hence my decision to take on the distribution for UK. I’m taking it to Jacket Required. —
TOM O’DELL OWNER, O’DELLS SHOREDITCH, LONDON — How has your first year of trading been? It’s been good, better than I thought it would be, so I’m very pleased. I’m glad I decided to go on my own. I was working at Nigel Hall previously, doing marketing and e-commerce. I’m located at 24 Calvert Avenue, off Shoreditch High Street, and up from Oliver Spencer and Ally Capellino. There’s a decent women’s independent next door, too, called Luna & Curious. I only have a tiny shop, but it’s perfect for a start-up. It’s limiting as to what I can put in terms of menswear. — What are you selling? It’s not so much about brands – around 80 per cent of what I’m selling is unique to the shop. Half of the store is menswear, the other half is more homeware, grooming products and leather accessories. I’ve got a Swedish denim brand called Sarva, which is exclusive to the UK at the moment. It uses Japanese selvedge denim. I’ve also got Scott Fraser Collection, which is created by a young designer who makes jackets in London. It’s based on utility and workwear. There are some great British wool jackets. I’ve also got my own knitwear as well, under the O’Dells name, all made in Scotland. There’s cashmere, lambswool and merino wool. In October, there will be a knitted waistcoat, a roll-neck, crew-neck and cardigans. I’ll be looking at wholesaling it as well. If all goes to plan, I’ll be hoping to open a second shop going forward. —
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PAUL STOCKS
FORREST ROSSCRAIG
OWNER, KEITH JAMES MENSWEAR HORSFORTH, LEEDS — What made you take over such an old menswear business? The timing seemed right for me. The shop has been trading for over 40 years, previously owned by Richard Wheelhouse and his father, Keith, before him. I’d been working on building up the online side of the business for the past four years, and decided I wanted to open my own shop. There’s so much discounting online, and it has become increasingly competitive. Richard was looking at selling the shop, so instead of going elsewhere and starting from scratch with a new standalone business, it made sense to take over a well-established business instead, so I bought it off him last August. Now the online shop is more of an add-on for the bricks-and-mortar business. — How have you changed it? I did a complete re-fit in February. It’s been a whirlwind. We’re currently carrying Boss Black, Gant, Hackett, Eton Shirts, John Smedley and Scotch & Soda, among others, so we’re mid to high end. On suiting, we have Benvenuto and Hugo Boss, and we are looking at offering a bespoke tailoring service next season. We are currently in talks with Munro about it. We’re seriously looking at ways of changing our offer to make it more geared towards a bricks-and-mortar store. There seems little point in stocking brands that are discounted so heavily online so early in the summer season, so we want to address that. For next spring we’re looking at sourcing more products, rather than just buying brands. —
DIRECTOR, MANIFESTO DUNDEE — How has 2015 been for you so far? January and February are generally poor. It starts picking up in March, April and May, and then you’re forced to go on Sale in June. The season is too short, and getting shorter. Something has to be done. Brands need to have more control of when their products can be discounted. Whoever went on Sale in the first week of June caused a domino effect. Also, the weather up here has been so cold that people have been walking around in coats, not looking for a new summer wardrobe. — What brands have been working for you? The usual suspects really – Stone Island, C.P. Company, Paul & Shark and Polo Ralph Lauren. Also, Adidas has been performing really well. Since C.P. Company has gone a bit younger, it’s taken on a new audience. It used to be Stone Island’s big brother, but now they’re owned by different companies, and going for the same age group. — What are you looking at bringing in? We’re bringing in Ten C for this autumn, and TSPTR. We brought in quite a few new brands for this season, such as Armor Lux and Bleu de Paname. We’ve had a mixed response. The thing is, we’re very brand-orientated up here. People don’t have much money, so if they’ve spent decent money, they want people to know it. It’s like the old Stone Island adage – nothing tells other people quite how much you’ve spent like that badge on the sleeve. —
DAVID JOHNSON OWNER, JOHN DOUGLAS MACCLESFIELD — What’s this season been like for you? We’ve been avoiding going on Sale for as long as possible. It seemed like most of the shops in Manchester were on Sale by mid-June. We’ve had some productive weeks recently, especially putting together outfits for people for weddings, days at the races and lads wanting to out-do their mates in the style stakes for proms. Gibson London and Remus have been very good on that front. The weather has been a bit of an issue this summer, but we never over-buy spring/summer collections. You can’t rely on the English climate. — What products have been successful? What we call “jean jackets”, as in smart jackets you wear with jeans. We’ve had a really good sell-through with the lightweight Donegal Tweed versions from Gibson London. The agent had talked me round to buying into it early, and I’m pleased he did. There’s also a great matching waistcoat that you can buy separately. Sales of more high-summer product only started to happen in the third week of June, which is annoying because the rest of the industry seems to have gone into Sale. Fred Perry polos, on the slimmer fit, have been very strong for us, though. — Any other news to report? Macclesfield is famous for silk, and we’ve put a silk tie collection together, as a Macclesfield silk Made in England product. The ties are woven, printed and manufactured in Macclesfield under the name of John Douglas Silks, and are available wholesale. —
See us at: INDX Menswear 29th - 30th July 2015 Moda Gent Stand MG03 9th - 11th August 2015 Moda Select Stand SE20 9th - 11th August 2015
T: 01765 640576 E: darren@knightsbridgeneckwear.co.uk www.knightsbridgeneckwear.co.uk
JULY 2015 | REALM & EMPIRE | PROFILE | 63
EMPIRE WARDROBE BUILDING Each fresh season, Realm & Empire’s research for its latest collection begins with a visit to the Imperial War Museum – now rebranded IWM – where archive pieces are selected, books studied and historians consulted. For s/s 16, the theme is the Desert Rats, but original designs are not taken literally, merely used for inspiration, as Tom Bottomley discovers from R&E’s CEO, Stephen Gill. —
Now four years since it launched as a brand, with the s/s 16 collection being its eighth season, Realm & Empire is slowly but surely gaining a bigger following. Online sales up 300% year-on-year on the brand’s own website are testament to that. The autumn/winter 15 collection, set to drop in stores very soon, may possibly be its strongest collection to date, inspired by WWII flyers and ground crew, with a leather A-2 jacket with painted back – like the old “nose art” on fighter planes – being a key piece. But, for s/s 16, the new theme is inspired by the Desert Rats, the famous British 7th Armoured Division that fought in most of the major battles during the North African Campaign. “We have touched on the Desert Rats
before, and we had such a good response from it but we didn’t really, at that point, have enough distribution in place,” says R&E’s CEO, Stephen Gill. “It was actually being requested by customers that we revisit it and build a whole spring/summer collection around it. Obviously it’s got a strong spring/summer link, so we’ve gone back to that but in a lot more depth. The museum found some amazing things in the archive, and we’ve actually developed a camo print from a map that was sewn on to the inside of a beret belonging to one of the original Desert Rats soldiers. Presumably so if he was captured he would have an idea of where he was so he could try to escape.” The starting point of any Realm & Empire collection is giving a brief to the IWM on the
kind of theme they are looking at for the season. Documents, antique pieces from the time and indeed garments are then put together for assessment, and specialists and a historian are brought in to talk about everything they have pulled out in order to aid the research and give important background detail. Once the groundwork has been done, and both the IWM locations in London and Duxford have been visited, a clear picture starts to emerge regarding what the collection should look like. A fascinating way to build a collection for sure. The s/s 16 collection is a full collection of outerwear, overshirts, shirts, waistcoats, trousers, shorts, sweats, polos, tees and knits. Colours are sun-bleached tones of jungle green, stone, navy and orange. “We’ve also incorporated a >>>
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lot of the details found on original garments,” offers Gill. “But it’s not about replicating pieces of old, more about borrowing styles of pockets or functional detailing – but using modern fits, fabrics and design. Not everyone wants epaulettes on a garment, for example. If you copy something 100 per cent it almost becomes too pure and limits the appeal of it from a customer perspective.” The line focuses on a lot of the utility wear, such as a lightweight wind and shower resistant Sandstorm Smock, a Ghost Patrol Workwear Jacket with utility pockets, a garment-washed Combat Overshirt, a slim-leg infantry trouser in a herringbone cotton and an iconic Montgomery summer workwear blazer. There is also a brand new capsule range of gym wear, with gym bottoms, shorts and zip-through track jackets in premium cotton loopback jersey. The PT Patch Hoodie has bold nylon patches in the shoulders and sleeves, and a utility chest pocket. And there’s also a fresh consignment of British-made knitwear, that’s made from fine Merino wool or super-soft 100 per cent cotton, designed in the brand’s studio in Nottingham and manufactured in England. To add a touch more credibility to the offering, the shoot for the Desert Rats collection look-book took place in the impressive themed landscapes
JULY 2015 | REALM & EMPIRE | PROFILE | 64
of the Land Warfare exhibit at IWM Duxford. Realm & Empire originated out of Stephen Gill’s family business Howfleet Limited, which is the holding company. The brand primarily came about because the company was doing a lot of sourcing and manufacturing for the Ministry of Defence (MOD), for about eight years, which, Gill says, was “a huge business.” Gill is the majority shareholder of Howfleet, alongside two others. The holding company also does sourcing for other brands, though no longer for the MOD. The Realm & Empire concept derived when Gill did a management buyout of the family business, with the intention of looking to launch a wholesale brand. “When I started to look into what I wanted that to be, I was quite keen that it would have a strong British link and a strong history start point. It was purely coincidental that I got introduced to one of the commercial people at the Imperial War Museum. It was at a point when a lot of the key government funded organisations, of which the IWM is one, were having their funding cut and were having to be more proactive in looking at how they could develop other lines of revenue. I gave them a proposal, which was kind of a pseudo licensing proposal really, though we would have our own trademark, but use the museum for inspiration for everything we do, and use the IWM shop to sell the product as well.” Going forward, Gill says they are putting more behind developing the brand identity and awareness of Realm & Empire. “We’re doing quite a lot of work with Selectism and sister site Highsnobiety, and we’re currently doing
an exclusive new brand video with them at the Imperial War Museum. The museum has never allowed that before so we’re getting access to areas that other people don’t.” He also says they are looking at other key advertising programmes for print. “We’ve been seeing a big increase in our online sales, with sales up 300% year-on-year, and we want to enhance that growth and build the identity from a wholesale perspective too.” While UK wholesale was previously being handled in-house, it’s now handled by Egomark as the agency for the whole of the UK (with a showroom in Shoreditch’s Hoxton Square) for the first time for s/s 16. There are also big plans afoot to do a pop-up store this autumn, in collaboration with the IWM in Central London and the 75th anniversary of the Battle of Britain as a potential theme. There is also the possibility of some key archive pieces from the museum being displayed, alongside relevant Realm & Empire product being sold – which could well include a version of Churchill’s famous wool overcoat reproduced in limited numbers, with the original actually on display. “It’s exciting that they have initially agreed to work with us on a pop-up,” says Gill. “We just need to get the plans – and location – firmed up.” Fashion and military history walking hand in hand, no less, though thankfully not at all through the valley of death.
See uS at Jacket RequiReD, 29th-30th JuLY, the OLD tRuman BReweRY, LOnDOn www.frankwrightshoes.com
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JULY 2015 | REVIEW | PITTI UOMO | 66
ITALIAN HIGHLIGHTS Pitti Uomo kicked off the international buying calendar last month and, with one of its strongest editions to date, the summer show presented a host of new labels and updated spaces to whet visitors’ appetites. —
FINLAY & CO British eyewear label Finlay & Co returned to the Main Pavilion during Pitti Uomo this season. Best known for its handmade wooden sunglasses, the brand showcased a comprehensive selection of eyewear for s/s 16. Featuring three distinctive new styles made from Italian Mazzucchelli acetate, models include the Draycot – which features almost perfect spherical lenses; the Hudson – a slim-line silhouette; and the Pembroke – a distinct cat-eye shape. Launched in 2012, the brand has enjoyed international success, stocked in US department store Barneys, and Harvey Nichols in the UK. —
WOOLRICH S/s 16 brought new developments for outerwear specialist Woolrich, with the introduction of the Summer Parka. Updated from the Arctic Parka, this season’s model features the new City Fabric – a soft-to-touch, waterproof, breathable triple-layer fabric in a blend of polyester and viscose, retaining the same pocket and hood system as its winter predecessor. The new Rainwear range, meanwhile, sees the continuation of the brand’s collaboration with GORE-TEX® - which includes the GTX Mac, a wind-resistant, highly breathable waterproof outerwear option. —
ESSENT’IAL A new discovery within Pitti Uomo’s I Play area, accessory label Essent’ial is a sustainable brand, established in 2006, that utilises recycled materials such as paper, cardboard and certified FSC cellulose fibre to create everything from notebooks to weekend bags. The s/s 16 collection is the brand’s most comprehensive to date, with highlights including the cellulose fibre wash bags, resembling paper to touch and denim to look at. Other key pieces include the cardboard-effect tablet case with chrome hardware and matching zip-fasten wash bags. —
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JULY 2015 | REVIEW | PITTI UOMO | 67
SAND A regular fixture at Pitti Uomo, Scandinavian label Sand focuses on textures and structures for s/s 16. The collection sees the return of linen mixed with wool and, in an innovative move, linen mixed with banana fibres. Japanese influences, meanwhile, were evident on double-weave jerseys for jackets, as well as shirting with graphic and calligraphic prints. Indigo remains strong for the brand, found in authentic denims but also in refined variations as it is mixed with coloured yarns, jacquards and silk. —
URI MINKOFF The eponymous brand was founded alongside sister label Rebecca Minkoff in 2005. In 2013, the brand relaunched under the creative direction of Uri Minkoff, moving away from the preppy Americana design style it once had and towards more contemporary, clean look it successfully executes today. Drawing inspiration from Minkoff’s travels, the latest offering sees Tokyo meet Sweden. In a timeless colour palette of black, white, blue and tan, the collection now comprises accessories and footwear for s/s 16. —
HAMILTON & HARE Hamilton & Hare was launched in 2012 by founder Olivia Francis. Looking at the female lingerie market’s rise from functional basic to luxury brand, multi-billion dollar market over the last 15 years, Francis saw an opportunity for the male equivalent. Inspired by the original boxing shorts worn by fighters in the ring when they needed to look and feel their best, the underwear and loungewear is designed to have the same effect. Premium fabrics, subtle detailing and an emphasis on fit and form, the collection is considered with the same attention to detail as outerwear. The s/s 16 range features cotton boxers, luxury sweats, tees and a unique boxing-inspired hooded robe. —
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JULY 2015 | STREET STYLE | 68
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FRESH FROM FLORENCE MWB was on hand at Pitti Uomo this season to snap some of the most stylish men in the grounds of the Fortezza da Basso. —
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JULY 2015 | PROFILE | OI POLLOI | 70
NORTHERN SOUL HITS SOHO Manchester’s purveyor of all things desirable in menswear, Oi Polloi opened the doors of its store in London’s Soho in the spring. Tom Bottomley talks shop and togs with co-founders Steve Sanderson and Nigel Lawson. —
Since the opening of Oi Polloi’s London branch in May, there has been a general excitement in the air from customers, brands, well-wishers and press. It’s the kind of buzz often missing these days from physical retail. It’s a shop you have to visit, not just click on, despite the website being very good too, of course. Co-owner Steve Sanderson says, “We’ve been getting a lot of local press in particular, such as the Evening Standard, Metro and Time Out – more traditional old-school press. We’re a ‘real’ shop, so it’s good to be in ‘real’ print. But obviously we’re doing a lot on the digital side, too.” The store is around 1,200 sq ft over the ground floor and basement. It’s deceptively bigger than they had initially thought when they first went to look at it in its old form as a bead shop at number 1 Marshall Street, opposite The Old Coffee House pub on the corner of Beak Street. “We found it through landlord Shaftesbury, and it just felt right for us as soon as we saw it,” says Sanderson. “We were also surprised when we did the shop-fit how much bigger we made it look. It was a bit like a tardis.” The London shop has been a long time in the making for Oi Polloi, having first started to look for the right location three years ago. The timing also had to be right, though the relaunch of the Oi Polloi website came at the same time as doing the new shop which was not the original plan,
or ideal. “That proved a bit tricky timing wise, especially with the buying and everything else to do as well,” says Sanderson. Until now, the website has represented the biggest part of the business, at over 60 per cent, with a large percentage of international customers, particularly from America and Northern Europe, as well as a fair share from London and surrounds – hence it making sense to have a proper shop presence in the capital as well as Manchester. Now with two stores, the sales dynamics may indeed shift slightly. Lawson says, “Both aspects are important to us – real shops and a good online presence. If you’re sat in New York and you’ve heard of Oi Polloi, you can see what we do and buy it. But the presence of an actual physical shop is a whole experience, because you can touch the product, try it on, listen to the music being played and generally pick up the vibe of what we’re all about. You can’t get that on screen. There’s nothing quite like coming into the store and trying on the whole outfit and soaking up the culture. Physically finding something is always going to have a greater buzz.” One of the initial hurdles of opening in London was being able to get in the brand and product mix they desired, especially with the likes of Liberty just around the corner. However, opening in Central London has – perhaps surprisingly – provided no problems on that front, with brands keen to embrace one of the UK’s
finest menswear retailer’s new venture. In fact, in terms of a quality independents, there was definitely a gap in the market to be filled. And Soho’s creative and media types are clearly the kind of punters attracted to a clearly defined edit, as has been Oi Polloi’s appeal from the outset. As the sign in the shop window says, “We sell good clothes.” Tongue in cheek, yes, but you certainly can’t argue with it. “In terms of brands, we pretty much got what we wanted,” says Sanderson. “We certainly weren’t after any conflict.” They just wanted to do what they do best, for their perceived type of customer. Sanderson says they do cross over slightly on certain brands with Liberty, but they have their own kind of customer base. “I think we’re a bit more focused on what we do,” he says. “It’s a particular kind of thing that we don’t stray too much from. Liberty is a department store, and therefore it offers a wider variety. It’s also a little bit more on the fashion tip, whereas we’re more about purist product. Obviously we’re still dictated to a degree by what trends are going on at the moment, but we very much have our own take on things.” It’s a particular handwriting that other retailers have certainly tried to emulate in other parts of the UK, though when it comes to pulling in new brands, or indeed old brands and products waiting to be reinvigorated, they don’t come any better at plucking them out of obscurity than Sanderson and Lawson. The duo first opened
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JULY 2015 | PROFILE | OI POLLOI | 71
CO-FOUNDERS STEVE SANDERSON AND NIGEL LAWSON
on Tib Street in Manchester’s gritty Northern Quarter in 2002, at the time putting together a lot of excellent vintage pieces and dead-stock (among new product from heritage brands bought in), a trait which no doubt helped to forge the backbone of their buying skills. “We focus on the best things we can get in, but we also have to balance that up with a certain amount of commerciality,” says Sanderson. “In a perfect world, you just want to sell the stuff you’re really into, but sometimes you have to sell the stuff that yes you are into, but also sells really well.” Oi Polloi does have the likes of Edwin and Nudie Jeans in London, but it’s far from a volume business. “We’ve had to be considerate of price points as well,” says Sanderson. “There’s good product out there that is still sensible money. It’s not about massive prices.” With the Yen currently weak against Sterling, even the Beams Plus product in Oi Polloi is surprisingly accessible from previous seasons. “It’s been looking to develop its market outside of Japan, so I also think it’s realigned some of its pricing,” says Sanderson. “It’s a good brand for us, we really like it.” Another label that Sanderson is keen to mention is Anatomica from Paris. “It started out as a shop, and they were really the ones who introduced the whole preppy thing to the Japanese,” he says. “The brand itself is more recent, and the sweatshirts are all made in the USA. It’s simple, quite stripped back, but they use really decent fabrics and construction. The guy
“We’ve been getting a lot of local press in particular, such as the Evening Standard, Metro and Time Out – more traditional old-school press. We’re a ‘real’ shop, so it’s good to be in ‘real’ print”
who does the manufacturing is the same one who does Rocky Mountain Featherbed and Mighty-Mac. He finds really good labels and re-does them in a sort of Japanese way.” Very much in the Oi Polloi mould, then. Another favourite is Sassafras from Japan – which Oi Polloi currently has exclusively for the UK. “It’s Japanese gardening clothes,” says Sanderson [while also sporting one of their jackets]. Indeed the concept behind the line is built around functional clothing fit for the allotment (as well as Soho’s pubs and cafés). “Another gem from Japan is OrSlow. Great denim and workwear. These are labels that a lot of people haven’t heard of, but if you look at the likes of Sassafras in particular, it fits in with that whole military/sport/functional thing – it ticks all the boxes.” Always fans of a decent white pump, Novesta – a brand founded in Slovakia in 1939 – is another new addition to the Oi Polloi selection. Sanderson says, “It’s an eastern European simple canvas pump. We’ve always sold canvas pumps, and it’s nice to find a good looking one that’s not madly expensive. They are £40, which is super reasonable, so if you knacker them or get them really dirty it’s not a big deal just to go and buy
another pair. We’ve got Shoes Like Pottery pumps as well, which are really nice. They’re more of a considered purchase at £100.” The whole trainer thing is also, of course, well in the Oi Polloi DNA, and is something the brand knows a lot about, so the best of the Adidas and Nike re-issues are also in the mix, and there is a project “on the go” for a collaboration with Reebok. “We should have it in this month,” says Lawson. “It’s a re-issue of an old style we know and love, but in the highest grade of leather.” It’s the passion behind the product they bring in that makes the likes of Sanderson and Lawson so highly revered in the menswear business. Growing up in Manchester, it was about getting hold of the hard to get hold of decent kit. As Lawson says, “When we were growing up, you wouldn’t have found the likes of Adidas, Barbour, Lacoste, Nike and Levi’s all in the same shop – no chance. “It’s stuff we’ve always put together, but back then there were either sports shops, hunting shops or lads’ casual shops. We sort of moulded them all together into one store that we would shop in.” And now Soho’s sharpest can get their fix of the Oi Polloi mix on their doorstep, too.
RAINS JACKET £33 0161 839 5999 NATIVE YOUTH SHIRT £11.50 0161 835 2064 DML JEANS £10 0161 864 6035
CONCRETE JUNGLE Sports-inspired streetwear makes a return for s/s 16 and, while colour palettes remain sombre, interest comes from print and fabrications. MWB highlights the winning pieces for the new season. —
NATIVE YOUTH JACKET £30 0161 835 2064 GREGORY JAMES T-SHIRT £9.95 07970 643311 DML JEANS £10 0161 864 6035 LUKE TRAINERS £30 01869 366580
RAINS JACKET £27.50 0161 839 5999 CHUNK SHORT SLEEVE SWEATSHIRT £20 020 7609 6758 WAVEN JEANS £18.60 020 7739 7621
ELLESSE TOP £22 07734 487566 URBANEARS HEADPHONES £56.14 0033 32304262
ALPHA INDUSTRIES JACKET £44 01869 366580 CRUYFF JOGGING BOTTOMS £30 0161 222 8048 NICOLAS DEAKINS JUMPER £22 0113 244 6875
THE HOOD BY L’ESTRANGE HOODED TOP £72 07776 184673 SOULSTAR SHORTS £9.99 01623 756644 WEEKEND OFFENDER T-SHIRT £10.74 01332 614755 CREATIVE RECREATION HAT £13 0161 222 8048
WEEKEND OFFENDER JACKET £33.33 01332 614755 DUCK AND COVER SHORTS £15 0844 693 0401 LUKE T-SHIRT £13.50 01869 366580 HEY DUDE SHOES £18.90 01202 575394 MI-PAC BAG £18.75 020 7749 5146
WAVEN DENIM JACKET £23.20 020 7739 7621 UCLA JOGGING BOTTOMS £20 01923 234555 ROAMERS & SEEKERS T-SHIRT £13.60 0117 910 5222
FILA T-SHIRT £9.25 01923 2885501 FILA SHORTS £14.30 01923 2885501 LAWLER DUFFY TRAINERS £29.60 0113 244 6875 HYPE SOCKS £2.49 0116 262 3048
SCOTCH & SODA JACKET £67.30 020 3137 3901 FARAH WHITE JEANS £24 020 7291 7632 AONO T-SHIRT £14 07875 452335 BLACK EYEWEAR SUNGLASSES £67 020 7637 2144
REALM & EMPIRE T-SHIRT £13 01858 466729 CREATIVE RECREATION SHORTS £20 0161 222 8048
N1SQ SHIRT £13 0161 831 3700 SOULLAND SHORTS £60 0045 26150186 BLACK EYEWEAR SUNGLASSES £67 020 7637 2144
N1SQ LONGLINE BOMBER JACKET £25 0161 831 3700 SOULLAND JUMPER £40 0045 26150186 SCOTCH & SODA JOGGING BOTTOMS £44.20 BROOKS CHARIOT RUNNING TRAINERS £35 01202 575394
PHOTOGRAPHS: CHRIS HARVEY WWW.IAMHARVEY.CO.UK STYLIST: VICTORIA JACKSON MAKE-UP ARTIST: LAUREN RIPPIN WWW.LAURENSALLY.CO.UK ASSISTANTS: MIKE BURTON, NGUYEN YEATES-BROWN MODEL: JAMIE YATES WWW.NEMESISAGENCY.CO.UK Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
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JULY 2015 | PEOPLE | 88
COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.
LITTLE BLACK BOOK LOOK MUM NO HANDS! 49 OLD STREET, SHOREDITCH LONDON EC1V
SIMON SAYS The time has come to let Basil go. It’s not that we don’t love him; we do, but it’s hard to see a future for him. He’s very old now, and has difficulty getting going in the morning. He’s served me well, and I am by nature, very loyal. I’ll miss his familiar features, and the memories of our travels together. As you have probably guessed... Basil is our company Mini Countryman. Built in around 1960 (he lies about his age), he sits resplendent in his Simon Carter livery of black paintwork with our cinnamon logos. He’s become a familiar sight around Shepherd Market at he’s great for deliveries. Old cars always have their quirks; his include a floor-mounted starter button, and indicators that don’t self-cancel. This can be inconvenient; many a time I’ve had irate fellow motorists beep their horn at me as their frustration spills over. “Turn for God’s sake, turn!” I bought Basil on a whim around eight years ago. We’d had a great June Pitti and were packing up the stand with Prosecco aplenty and a bulging order book. The phone rang and it was John, the mechanic who tends to my own classic cars. “Remember that old Mini you liked last time you were in?” he said. “Well, the owner has died and his wife wants to sell.” I did remember the Mini. It came in every year for its service and MOT, and each year John scratched his head since the car travelled barely 50 miles between these visits. He’d asked the owner why he bothered to keep it on the road, and got a shrug in return. So I was feeling flush, and full of that pre-global-financial-crisisconfidence so I said, “Yes,” without driving or testing the car. Happy days. We then spent considerable time and fortune having Basil restored. Once on the road, we fought for the treat of driving him. Although 50 years old, he nipped along and hugged corners like glue. Everyone would stop and stare and wave. I liked the sheer functional simplicity of the design; the windows slid open horizontally and the doors opened by tugging on a piece of plastic string. On the downside, the heater was like a small group of tired wasps trying to fart, and every time I went over a speed bump my liver felt as though it had become dislodged. Over time, the novelty wore off. Cold in the winter and prone to running out of fuel thanks to a pathological liar of a petrol gauge, it became harder to persuade staff to use him. Needs must. He’s going on eBay next week. The money raised will be useful for buying a modern company van. Dull, reliable and soulless. Basil, I’ll miss you. Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores.
Look Mum No Hands! was originally created in 2010 as a place where customers could watch the Tour de France, drink coffee and get their bikes fixed at the same time. Five years later and the bicycle-café-comeworkshop occupies two permanent London locations – one in Shoreditch and the other in Hackney. The café also runs a pop-up store, which returns for a third time this summer in the capital’s Southbank Centre. At the café’s Shoreditch location, customers can watch films and live cycle sports on the store’s big screen while taking advantage of the in-store mechanic service. Customers can also pick up own-brand T-shirts, caps, cycling gear and coffee cups alongside products from other independent cycling brands. Coffee is available in-store from Square Mile Coffee Roasters and others. Meanwhile, beer lovers can sample a range of locally brewed craft beer from Kernel Brewery, Beavertown Brewery and Five Points. —
PLAN B
FRANÇOIS LEPELTIER Brand director at Wolverine Worldwide (including Hush Puppies)
If I wasn’t in the menswear industry, I’d be a polo player. I’ve always loved horses and getting an adrenalin rush. — Polo is also a very international sport, and it gives me a chance to use my language skills and meet interesting people from very diverse backgrounds. This is also one of the aspects I enjoy in my current job – the chance to travel and meet fascinating people in our industry. Polo is also a game that requires real focus. Swinging a mallet to hit a ball at break-neck speed is not everyone’s idea of a relaxing weekend, and you have to continually practice to hope to get better. But in the words of the great polo player Winston Churchill, “I am myself an optimist – it does not seem to be much use being anything else.” —
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CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL KEVIN STONE BRAND CONSULTANT AND OWNER OF STONEAGENCIES.COM I have a long-standing association with Baracuta so, as you might expect, I have a decent archive collection of Baracuta jackets from the 50s through to today’s modern interpretations. It’s such a classic wardrobe staple and still made in England. In the s/s 16 collection we have reinvented several of my archive pieces, and they’ve turned out quite spectacular. We’ve called it the Archives collection. At the moment my favourite Baracuta is an oil green G9, which a certain Mr Paul Weller is also rocking. — I also have a grey melange Edwin sweatshirt that’s around four years old. I bought it from Edwin in Shoreditch. It’s been hammered to death, but I always default back to it. The loop-back fabric gives the sweat a great hand-feel, and the attention to detail makes this simple garment very special. — In terms of shirts, at the moment it’s all about a classic BD Baggies Oxford, as worn by Paul Newman – simple, classic and timeless, in white or sky blue. Up until last year, the brand was only available from their Milan showroom, thus there weren’t that many UK stockists. So I always stocked up whenever I came across a retailer who sold them. There’s always a great selection of colours, and they are reasonably priced. — On the denim front I’m a big fan of Nudie’s Thin Finn jean. I’ve got them in several washes. My oldest pair has just had a fantastic overhaul at the Nudie Repair Shop on Berwick Street – great service, and the repairs just add a little something to the jean on its next journey. — With shoes, in winter I default to a pair of Red Wing. I have several variations, but my favourite pair are over 12 years old. They have accompanied me on many trips around the world, and we have become good friends. In the summer, it’s a toss-up between my classic Birkenstocks, or a simple pair of navy Converse Jack Purcell. —
TOP TWEETS Bill Murray @ BiIIMurray I’m not an alcoholic, I only drink 2 times a year. When it’s my birthday and when it’s not my birthday. Caitlyn Jenner @Caitlyn_Jenner Great day yesterday for Father’s Day. We had so much fun off-roading. So much love and support! Love my family! Schott NYC @SCHOTT_Europe “Talk about a #dream, try to make it real” – Bruce Springsteen The Hambledon @TheHambledon We’re strongly considering starting a campaign for mandatory no work days when it’s sunny. Who’s with us? #sunshinedayoff Simon Chilvers @simonchilvers Clapham is like a flip flop hell. Tom Cox @cox_tom Humanity would be better served if before the next iPhone a cat food pouch is invented that doesn’t squirt jelly up your arm as you open it. Warren Beckett @RobotMonsieur Dolly Parton was way better #KanyeWest Base London @base_london What would your ultimate piece of futuristic #fashion do? I could really go for some hover brogues, but maybe that’s just me...
SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.
p MADE IN CHELSEA STAR ANDY JORDAN AT THE RECENT OPENING OF THE CAMBRIDGE SATCHEL COMPANY’S LATEST STORE.
p MODEL NAT WELLER AT THE S/S 16 AQUASCUTUM PRESENTATION AT LAST MONTH’S LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN.
p CUSTOMERS WERE WELCOMED TO THE ALBAM STORE IN JUNE TO LEARN HOW TO CREATE THEIR OWN ALBAM TOTE BAG IN A WORKSHOP HELD BY THE BRAND.
29th - 30th JULY
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THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.
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SPORT AND FASHION PACKING A PUNCH A nominee for the recent UKFT Rise Newcomer Award, and with Oliver Spencer as “brand mentor”, Hamilton & Hare is a men’s underwear label that could be packing more than your average M&S multi-pack. It’s even got sixpack British boxer Frank Buglioni as its brand ambassador. He’s apparently a particular fan of the label’s hooded dressing gown (for that Rocky moment we’ve all done in the mirror when we were young, right? Right?) Founded in 2012, Hamilton & Hare quite simply set out to make the best underwear around. Inspired by the original boxing short, worn in the ring to make prize fighters look and feel their best, its underwear is designed to do just that. “As the first thing you put on and the last thing you take off, it shouldn’t be an afterthought,” says founder Olivia Francis. The launch of new loungewear categories for a/w 15 will add further appeal, and plans are afoot to open a London standalone store. But what’s the Oliver Spencer connection all about? Well, apparently he likes what Hamilton & Hare is doing. It fits in with Spencer’s own kind of design aesthetic. With five successful stores of his own, Spencer is able to bring an abundance of knowledge to the table. A good man to have on side, that’s for sure. Meanwhile, on another sporty tip, Huez could be on the back of someone tearing through a red light on their bike next time you’re late for work in the car and wish you could do the same and get away with it. Launching last year, it’s a contemporary sportswear collection for cyclists, or for those who just want to look like they are. It showcased at the most recent addition of London Collections: Men – in the static show spaces at London’s The Hospital Club (thankfully there was no one in there with a broken leg having been mowed down jumping said red light). The creative director, Nick Bond, was previously at Paul Smith, so the range has a strong design focus and recently launched at The Conran Shop and Present. It’s certainly sharper and less of an eye sore than the average man in neon lycra look.
p HAMILTON & HARE IS UP FOR THE UKFT RISE NEWCOMER AWARD t HUEZ PRESENTED ITS LATEST RANGE AT LC:M LAST MONTH
DAD’S THE WORD According to a recent survey by big men’s fashion retailer Jacamo, 56 per cent of men admitted to copying their son’s style of dress to avoid looking out of date. And a whopping 64 per cent said they had sought their son’s advice when buying an outfit. Among the top five things fathers admitting copying were buying a pair of trainers, rolling up jeans and shirt sleeves and adding a hat to their outfit (for the follicly challenged dads you’ve got to say that’s fair play, and surely it doesn’t have to be a Panama after you hit 40 either?). A spokesman for Jacamo apparently said that, in the past, sons might have looked to their fathers when trying to impress, but now it’s the other way round. It’s not quite the same in my house though, and I’m sure others working in this industry will testify a similar scenario. In the past month alone my son has had a Lacoste polo shirt off me, a vintage Champion sweatshirt (and T-shirt come to think of it), a pair of Lee Riders 101 selvedge jeans and a pair of brand new Chippewa shoes that I’d not yet managed to even get out of the box before being claimed in his name. It
seems the only style tips we swap are the ones that go from my wardrobe to his.
BRIT BRANDS SHOW OF STRENGTH AT PITTI Alas, I was unable to make the most recent addition of Pitti Uomo in Florence last month, but I’ve heard good things, one of which is the amount of British brands that were showing of real quality. Looking further into it, the UKFT revealed that indeed there was a record group of British menswear, footwear and accessories companies that showed, many for the first time. With over 90 UK brands at Pitti, it made us the second largest national group of exhibitors after the home nation. Now that’s a proper Italian job. What’s more, over 20 companies received government grants from UK Trade & Investment under the Tradeshow Access Programme, administered by the UKFT. Great to see that the words of those who know how important fashion exports are to this country are being heeded.
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LAST ORDERS WITH... CHLOE WARD A British success story, lifestyle label Joules is currently making waves on an international scale, especially in the US – a notoriously difficult market to crack. Victoria Jackson speaks to brand director Chloe Ward about the season ahead, the current wholesale strategy and the secret to Joules’ triumph across the pond. — DOB: 20/08/80 Place of birth: Market Harborough Lives now: Hallaton Twitter: @Joulesclothing Instagram: @Joulesclothing — Joules is currently making significant progress in international markets. What do you think the attraction of British brands is globally? I think it’s a combination of things. As a country, we’ve established a great reputation for creative design. People in other countries tend to feel charmed by Britain – they warm to the things that are intrinsic to our culture such afternoon tea, our “funny” accents and our Royal family. International consumers love to buy into our British history and culture, and one way they’re able to do that is through wearing British. I think it’s the reason our brands, especially those like Joules – which have such an identity and a Britishness about them – are such hot property abroad. So many brands struggle to crack the US market – what do you think are the key factors to Joules’ success? You always need to stand out in new environments. We have a very clear handwriting and brand identity – our colour and in-house designed prints are eye-catching. The US really gets what Joules is about. It loves what we do – the quirky English-ness, the colours, prints and humour. We offer a Britishness, which there is a definite appetite for. Our rain boots in particular have seen great growth. What trends for s/s 16 are you highlighting at Joules? The new season for Joules is all about making time off more terrific, weekends more wonderful and holidays happier. A lot of our inspiration was drawn from getting outdoors and being beside the sea – the journey from “shire to shore”. The fit and mood for us is relaxed and casual – we make sure our colours pop and our signature handdrawn prints bring the season to life. What do the next 12 months have in store for the brand? The next 12 months are all about carefully growing Joules in the UK and internationally, ensuring that we keep our customer at the heart of every decision we make. We’ll do this by increasing our retail presence across the UK, giving our customers more opportunity to see products in the flesh and pick up ordered items. In the
US, the next 12 months are all about developing our offering through wholesale channels, and of course continuing to teach Americans what “welly wanging” is through our presence at trade shows. Is wholesale still a focus for the brand in the UK? The wholesale channel is hugely important to us; it represents a third of our business, so we’ll certainly continue to focus on it throughout s/s 16. We’ve seen great results, delivered strong growth and are constantly building on our relationships with our stockists to be able to develop our offering and reach. Wholesale has been particularly pivotal for us internationally, providing us with the opportunities to capitalise on and fuel our expansion. What do you think needs to be done to help bring the UK high street back to life? I would love to see more of an eclectic mix of retailers and brands on the high street. A lot of our high streets are dominated by the big, multiple retailers that often have similar offers. I think brands and retailers with original identities and ideas can inspire consumers. In terms of your personal style, which designers could we find in your wardrobe? Isabel Marant and J Crew. How would you describe your style? Contemporary, classic and colourful.
QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS — Early bird or night owl? Early bird. — Favourite film? The Grand Budapest Hotel and A Good Year. — Biggest vice? Spicy food. — What couldn’t you live without? My family, and our Aga. — Best piece of advice you’ve been given? If you want somebody to do something, make them think it was their idea. —
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