WWB MAGAZINE AUGUST/SEPTEMBER ISSUE 249 by fashion buyers Ltd

WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015/ ISSUE 249 £6.95

THE SHOW ISSUE MUST-SEE MODA The labels, the trends and the new launches at this month’s show SPORTING SUCCESS How the lines between fashion and performance are increasingly blurred NEW DAWN Why now is the perfect time for Claudia Sträter’s UK relaunch

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HIGH PERFORMANCE The key activewear brands not to miss

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THE HEART OF MODA WWB’s comprehensive guide to this month’s show

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SUBTLE NUANCES Contemporary fashion under our photographer’s lens

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SCOOP LONDON A first look at September’s exhibiton

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THE MAIN EVENT Evening and occasionwear trends for s/s 16

102/ F O O T W E A R N E W S The product development and new launches from key shoe brands

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EDITOR’S COMMENT

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NEWS

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BACKSTAGE

Our review of last month’s German shows

108/ R E T A I L F O R U M 111/ E - T A I L C L I N I C Expert e-commerce advice

The other side of womenswear

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114/ T H E L A S T W O R D

TALKING POINT Your views on the issues shaping the industry

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With Tom Joule, CEO of Joules Clothing

INTERVIEW With Stephanie Phair, president, The Outnet

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GOING DUTCH The UK return of Claudia Sträter

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STYLE FILE The latest directional product news

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FASHION RADAR WWB’s brand to watch

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BOHO CHIC The best bohemian styles to get in-store now

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FLEXING THE MUSCLES Reporting on the rise of sportswear fashion

COVER: EMRECO, 0845 34 5 1914

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Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Contributors Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Sub editor Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com

Editor’s comment Isabella Griffiths

Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com Subscriptions Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics & printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

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Last month’s new, all-Conservative Budget, brought up a number of planned changes that are set to have an impact on business, most notably the introduction of a “living wage” of £7.20 per hour, increasing to £9 by 2020. This has caused controversy among industry bodies (see our lead news story on page 10) and retailers, with small businesses in particular concerned that they simply won’t be able to afford it and, ultimately, employment numbers and hours will have to be reduced. Having spoken to several independents about the subject, I get the impression that the concern is not based on a reluctance per se to pay staff a higher rate – many try to pay above minimum wage, or a living wage anyway. However, in most cases, it simply boils down to numbers and affordability to stay afloat themselves. The “hot potato” subject of business rates continues to linger and any progress on this is a long while off, meaning thousands of small businesses are taxed disproportionately and in a crippling manner in the meantime. If business rates were tackled, maybe some budget could be freed up to pay higher salaries but, until then, a compulsory hike in wages will most likely have an adverse effect and leave many fashion staff unemployed or out of pocket. The other proposed move by the government was the relaxation of Sunday trading hours for larger stores. While this doesn’t directly affect

most fashion stores – yet – it will be interesting to see the impact this will have on the retail sector as a whole. The theory behind the proposal is to align consumer shopping habits online with bricks and mortar and create a more equal playing field, but I’m not so convinced it will happen. Firstly, it seems odd that the decision over extended Sunday trading hours will be devolved to local councils and mayors – which could potentially mean a completely incongruous retail scene. But I’m also sceptical whether it will really create more jobs and generate more profits for those retailers concerned, or whether it will just be an experiment that is doomed from the start, whereby the same pot of consumer money will just be distributed differently across more and longer hours. Lastly, as we turn our attention to this month’s UK shows, most notably Scoop, Moda and Pure, we are also reporting back from the buzzing trade destination that is Berlin, which – despite the tragic demise of Bread & Butter – is holding its own as a vibrant fashion metropolis. Take a look at our pick of Berlin on page 106 to get the low-down on labels that are either new or not yet in the UK market. And, of course, don’t forget to take a look at our comprehensive previews of this month’s Moda, as well as September’s new addition to the UK show calendar, Scoop London.

WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company

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CONTROVERSY OVER NEW NATIONAL LIVING WAGE Industry body Bira warns that wage increase could scupper employment in the small business sector.

Small shops will have to cut jobs or hours – or both – as a result of the new National Living Wage announced in the latest Budget, a new report by the British Independent Retailer Association (Bira) warns. The industry body conducted a survey among its members following last month’s new Conservative Budget and the planned introduction of a new rate of the national minimum wage, called the living wage, initially to £7.20 per hour, rising to £9 in 2020. Sixty three per cent stated it would lead to fewer jobs and hours, 31 per cent said it would make no difference, and three per cent estimated it would create more jobs, with a further three per cent stating they didn’t know. According to Bira, it confirms the Chancellor’s announcement that 60,000 jobs would be lost as a direct result of the new rate. Bira further concludes that more than a third of its members have reported reducing employee numbers and hours because of increases in the national minimum wage. Most notably, 90 per cent of businesses with a turnover between one and three million have done this, according to a recent Bira wages survey. The Association calculates that the concession of £1,000 on National Insurance would compensate for less than a year’s worth of the increase in the rate for one full-time employee, and calls it “a largely empty gesture”. Small retailers, even those forecasting no immediate effect, expressed greater concern about the clearly mapped future for the rate. To rise from £7.20 in 2016 to £9 in 2020 will require four sequential annual hikes of six per cent. What this means

for the political independence of the Low Pay Commission is of concern to the Association. CEO Alan Hawkins says, “It will be a body blow to small shops if the government simply imposes the huge jump in cost on a sector already struggling to cope with falling prices, additional pension costs and ever-increasing and punitive business rates. It emphasises the need for the Treasury to push ahead quickly with its promises to review and reform this damaging tax if small shops are to have a hope of coping with this unexpected new burden.” This view is supported by David Greenberg, owner of womenswear indie Chex in Bexley, Essex. “Only us traders know what we can and cannot afford,” he says. “I feel that the minimum wage prospects will lead to a cut in hours, or indeed, a ‘sorry, we have to let you go’ syndrome. The wage increase is another rate to small businesses.” Alexandra Boardman, owner of Alexandra’s in Keswick, already pays the living wage, therefore she does not feel that the wage increase will make a difference to her employers, however she does emphasise that the Budget is not sympathetic to smaller businesses. “The Budget seems to favour larger organisations – the burden of taxation is proportionally larger on smaller organisations and lower income families,” she says. “The National Insurance compensation is indeed an empty gesture, which sounds good on TV. Business rates do need to be addresses, and the proposals that Bira have put forward would make the burden of taxation easier on small businesses.”

FOR DAILY NEWS, ANALYSIS AND UPDATES, VISIT WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

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NEWS IN BRIEF

JACOBSON GROUP SECURES FUNDING

GERRY WEBER OPENS SHOWROOM AT CIFF

Branded footwear supplier Jacobson Group has secured funding from Shawbrook Business Credit to the total of £14m, which will allow the company to continue its international growth strategy. Coinciding with the funding, Jacobson Group has restructured its business by slimming down its non-branded division, putting greater focus on brands and allowing it to open up to new markets and invest further in existing territories. Last year, Jacobson Group resumed control of the US distribution for its Gola Classics brand with the set-up of a US subsidiary. Following this, the group has also launched its Frank Wright and Lotus brands in this territory, with 2015 seeing the move to a new, larger office complex to help facilitate the growth. With a history spanning over 80 years in footwear, Jacobson Group owns a portfolio of brands, including Gola, Frank Wright, Ravel, Lotus and Dolcis.

German womenswear brand Gerry Weber has taken up residence at CIFF Showrooms in Copenhagen’s Bella Centre, showcasing its full brand portfolio including Gerry Weber, Gerry Weber Edition, GW and Gerry Weber Accessories, as well as sister brands Taifun, Samoon and new subsidiary Hallhuber. The 550 sq m space incorporates shop-inshop areas and modern visual merchandising elements, resulting in a holistic presentation area with a relaxed and modern ambience. Ralf Weber, CEO and director of sales and company development at Gerry Weber, emphasises the new showroom’s position as an integral part of the wholesale strategy in Scandinavia. “Our new showroom clearly demonstrates the charisma of our four brand families once again,” he says. “We are looking forward to exploiting potential on the Scandinavian market and increasing our international brand recognition even further.”

BOXPARK CROYDON LAUNCHES FOR 2016 A second Boxpark pop-up mall will open in Croydon for summer 2016, following the success of the world’s first pop-up mall Boxpark in London’s Shoreditch. Founded by Roger Wade, creator of British streetwear brand Boxfresh, Boxpark grew out of Wade’s love of industrial architecture and independent brands. The concept for Boxpark saw the refitting of shipping containers, which are then stacked up, creating flexible, low-cost retail spaces and a new form of retail destination. Situated at Ruskin Square, next to East Croydon Station, Boxpark Croydon will embrace the original ethos but will be bigger – offering 80 shopping containers – and more radical. Playing host to hand-picked independent labels and fresh-thinking businesses, Boxpark Croydon has a strict “no high street fascia” rule. Like Boxpark Shoreditch, it will provide a community of brands, but also food, drink and events. The new Boxpark space, which will open seven days a week, will offer two rows of Box Shops and a high-transparent roof covering an atrium. Elements such as a pop-up cinema, mini music festivals, art installations, theatrical productions and more will be incorporated via a 20,000 sq ft central space.

LEADING MENSWEAR INDIE LAUNCHES WOMENSWEAR One of the UK’s leading indie fashion retailers has announced expansion plans, with a new womenswear concept. Liquor Store, which currently boasts a menswear and lifestyle boutique in Birmingham’s Great Western Arcade and online, will open a new womenswear store in the same location next month. Having first opened its doors in 2012, Liquor Store fast became one of the UK’s leading independent menswear retailers, famed for its hand-picked and forward-thinking brands. PREMIUM GROUP ACQUIRES BRIGHT The Premium Group, organiser of Berlin trade exhibitions Premium and Seek as well as Premium Order in Munich, has acquired street and sportswear show Bright. As part of the deal, Premium will take over the shares of Bright founders Marco Aslim and Thomas Martini, though they both continue in their positions as managing directors with creative influence over the trade show’s future. Along with Seek, the two exhibitions are to create a hub for progressive menswear in Berlin, with the events having exhibited alongside each other for the first time this season with a combined total of 600 exhibiting brands. The shows will continue to run at the same time in the same location. GLAMOROUS OPENS RETAIL STORE Online fashion retailer Glamorous is opening its first bricks-and-mortar store in Manchester’s Trafford Centre this month. Glamorous, which is based in Manchester, is taking a 1,900 sq ft space and will be located on the upper mall, creating a number of local jobs from store management through to retail assistant roles. The brand has seen consistent growth since its launch in 2007 and recently made its first foray into US department store Bloomingdale’s.

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NEWS IN BRIEF

MARKET DEBUT FOR THE BRAND AMBASSADORS

VIVIEN SHERIFF OFFERS DIFFUSION LINE

New London fashion agency The Brand Ambassadors is opening its doors this season, representing Danish labels Mos Mosh and Black Lily, as well as French collection Toupy. The agency was founded by Lucy Walsh, who has 15 years of industry experience, having previously held positions in trade publishing and exhibitions. The Brand Ambassadors’ aim is to launch international designers to the UK and Ireland, with the agency’s three labels also making their debut at this month’s Scoop. Mos Mosh is a denim brand with a selection of semi-tailoring, casual tops and dresses, while Black Lily offers a mix of ready-to-wear and accessories. Toupa, meanwhile, specialises in washable silks in bright colours and prints in contemporary clean silhouettes and chic Parisian styling. Following the agency’s debut at Scoop, The Brand Ambassadors will operate a pop-up showroom in Hammersmith throughout August.

Luxury headwear brand Vivien Sheriff is launching a new diffusion line – Vixen Millinery – at more commercial price points, which are around 75 per cent lower than the main line. Vixen Millinery is based around four principles, including colour matching all key occasionwear brands as well as offering a bespoke colour-matching service; affordable price points ranging between £40 and £100; contemporary and flattering design for a vast range of customers; and sophisticated branding. “Vixen Millinery is the result of significant industry research and strategic positioning, intended to fill a gap in the market,” says founder Vivien Sheriff. “We took into account the shop owners’ feedback, asking them what shapes were most popular, what sold well and what didn’t. Listening to the market and using the feedback to create the collection was key.” The range will make its market debut at this month’s Moda Woman.

ASOS.COM VISITOR FIGURES SOAR Visitor figures at Asos.com saw a significant increase in comparison to June last year. Asos attracted 98 million visits during June 2015, compared to 71 million during June 2014. On 30 June 2015, the website had 9.7 million active customers, which is one million higher than 30 June 2014. The increase in visitor figures reflects an overall strong sales period for the online retailer. Retail sales for the four months leading to 30 June 2015 grew by 20 per cent, while UK growth remained strong at 27 per cent. “After accounting for our price investments during the period, the full-year gross margin is nonetheless expected to remain in line with last year, assisted by tighter inventory control and strong full-price sales,” says Nick Robertson, CEO of Asos. “We anticipate that sales for the full year will be at the higher end of our guided 15-20 per cent growth range. “We have increased investment in our people and our customer proposition, particularly in relation to free returns trials,” he continues. “We therefore expect EBIT margin to remain at the guided level of around four per cent.”

FEEFO WELCOMES NEW REPORT FINDINGS Feefo – the UK’s first closed review platform – has welcomed results from a new report conducted by the Competition & Markets Authority (CMA). Findings from the CMA’s investigation into the UK reviews and ratings market have found that Feefo meets all the recommendations set by the report, which called for review platforms to be more reliable and responsible. Currently, Feefo is working with over 2,000 merchants such as The White Company, Notonthehighstreet. com, Moss Bros and The Wool Company. Feefo ensures reliable reviews by only inviting customer feedback following the actual purchase of a product or service from the merchant’s site. JONATHAN SAUNDERS APPOINTS NEW CEO British luxury brand Jonathan Saunders has appointed Rupert Maunsell as CEO. Most recently, operations director at Mary Katrantzou, Maunsell has held senior management and operational positions at brands including Avenue 32 and Temperley London. In his role as the first CEO of Jonathan Saunders, Maunsell will be leading a series of key hires across the business in order to execute the strategic growth of the brand, following private investment earlier this year. The Jonathan Saunders studio also relocates this month to new premises in Clerkenwell to support the expansion. REPLAY OPENS NEW STORE ON CARNABY STREET Replay opened the doors to its new store on Carnaby Street last month. Having occupied retail space on Carnaby Street for several years, the brand has moved to a new location at 11-12 Carnaby Street, which features 2,500 sq ft of retail space to facilitate the growing demand for Replay. The store will stock the latest women’s and men’s collections from Replay, We Are Replay and Replay One Off.

Heart of Fashion

Woman Lingerie & Swimwear Accessories Footwear Gent

9-11 August 2015 Moda, NEC Birmingham Register for tickets at moda-uk.co.uk

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NEWS IN BRIEF

KINGS OF COLE MAKES UK DEBUT

MARBLE ROLLS OUT SPLIT DELIVERY PROGRAMME

US luxury loungewear brand Kings of Cole is launching to the UK for s/s 16, making its market debut at Moda White this month. The company was founded in 2010 by Elana Brynes and specialises in luxurious loungewear and its signature “boyfriend” hoodie. Already a celebrity favourite with the likes of Jennifer Lopez, Jay-Z, the Kardashians, Selena Gomez and more, the range includes soft hooded sweatshirts, tracksuit bottoms, jumpers and everyday basics in vibrant colours and bold prints, featuring the brand’s recognisable rose gold hardware. Brand adjacencies include Wildfox, Zoe Karsson and Juicy Couture. In its home market the brand is stocked in over 300 independent retailers, including Dash, Fred Segal, Planet Blue and Nordstrom, while there are currently 400 stockists worldwide across Europe, Asia and the Middle East. The brand is looking to establish distribution in the UK through high-quality independents, with its debut at Moda White a key strategic move for the label. The brand is represented in the UK by distributor The Midnight Group.

Following a successful trial in Scotland and in other areas of the UK, Marble is further rolling out its Split Delivery Programme this season. The initiative allows customers to tailor their seasonal buys to suit their individual business requirements, with retailers able to choose colour stories, the frequency of delivery drops as well as schedule delivery dates, resulting in higher sell-through and fresh new stock throughout the season. In addition, the brand has put in place a payment plan option, with up to 20 weeks payment terms, available depending on the size of order. “This is our third season using the multiple deliveries option from Marble,” says Linda Maxwell, owner of womenswear indie Andiamo in Edinburgh. “We have not only seen our sell-though of the brand increase, but also our customers. Some come in weekly, and are delighted to have something new to look at throughout the season. Marble has made it easy for us to do this and given us the chance to buy in a way that we know benefits both our customers and the business.” For s/s 16, the programme will be rolled out across the UK, as well as further 30 of the brand’s global export markets.

JUNE SALES EXCEED EXPECTATIONS A strong finish to June ensured that sales were “the strongest in 18 months”, according to new data released by the BRC-Nielsen Shop Price Index. UK retail sales increased by 1.8 per cent in direct comparison with June last year, representing the strongest growth since January 2014. “The retail industry performed strongly in June, experiencing the best overall sales growth for some time,” says director general at the British Retail Consortium Helen Dickinson. “We also saw welcome signs of growing consumer confidence, with people more willing to trade up, and spend a bit more on big-ticket purchases.” The BRC also praised some of the measures outlined by Chancellor George Osborne in last month’s Budget. “Wages have outpaced inflation for eight consecutive months,” says Joanne DenneyFinch, chief executive at retail analyst IGD. “Although around a quarter of shoppers still expect their personal finances to deteriorate over the next 12 months, this is a big improvement on the 47 per cent predicting the same in June 2012.”

NEW LIFESTYLE BRAND FOR BETTY BARCLAY The Betty Barclay Fashion Group has launched a new lifestyle brand, Betty & Co. The label bridges the gap between fast fashion and the modern, classic Betty Barclay. Targeted at mainstream women, the Betty & Co label will have an independent identity. “Betty & Co is more emotional, younger and authentic,” says product manager Björn Krüger. “Modern-day lifestyle is critical, with everyday versatility and a focus on knitwear and T-shirt essentials.” PICADILLY COLLABORATES WITH MATIS Canadian brand Picadilly has added a new line of ready-to-wear to its product portfolio – day-to-evening dresses designed by award-winning Canadian fashion designer and Project Runway Canada contestant Lucian Matis. The range is based around a melange of placement prints and colour blocking, featured on classic silhouettes. Made in Canada, the dresses are cut, sewn and finished in-house, and are available in sizes 4-18. The range is represented in the UK by Apt Collections. TCA SHOWROOM EXPANDS PORTFOLIO Fashion agency TCA Showroom has expanded its brand portfolio with the addition of UK label Traffic People. The label will be represented by the agency from s/s 16, and will be available to view at TCA Showroom in Chelsea. KASH JOINS JOY BRANNIGAN AGENCY Italian knitwear label Kash has appointed Joy Brannigan, the agency behind Maria di Ripabianca, as its UK representative. Produced by a long established, family run factory in Umbria, the Kash s/s 16 line features the latest advances in yarns such as naturally soft, light cashmere together with silk and cotton mixes. Kash offers individual pieces to complement and update an existing wardrobe, allowing a distinctive, personal style choice.

SEPTEMBER During London Fashion Week S A A T C H I G A L L E R Y, L O N D O N scoop-international.com

2015

ÂŠ Maria Rivans, Delilah, Limited edition print available at saatchistore.com

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For wholesale enquires contact 0845 524 0260 wholesale@elvi.co.uk elviwholesale.com

12.09. – 14.09.

2015 Messe Offenbach GmbH Kaiserstr. 108 -112 · D - 63065 Offenbach am Main Fon + 49 69 - 82 97 55 - 0 · Fax + 49 69 - 82 97 55 - 60 www.ilm-offenbach.de · info@messe-offenbach.de

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Backstage

The events, campaigns and parties not to miss 01/ BRITISH BORN AND BRED Best of Britannia returned to London for its fourth edition last month, once again sporting a stellar line-up of born-and-bred British exhibitors. The event took place in the Nicholls & Clarke warehouse and courtyard on Shoreditch High Street and created a bustling, pop-up department store with the brightest brands in interiors, art, fashion, food & drink, ceramics, jewellery, cycling and motoring as well as an array of music and entertainment. Among the returning fashion labels were menswear tailor Susannah Hall and heritage men’s and women’s footwear brand Cheaney. 02/ MY LITTLE PONY POPS UP AT SELFRIDGES An exclusive My Little Pony pop-up store made an appearance at Selfridges in early July, showcasing the Fyodor Golan a/w 15 ready-to-wear collection from designers Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman. The pair collaborated with Selfridges on the Instagram-friendly installation – licensed by Hasbro – based on the My Little Pony franchise. A giant rainbow welcomed customers to the My Little Pony Land of Magic and Friendship, where mannequins wore customised rainbow pony wigs, and there was a “ponyfication”’ nail station by Nails Inc to help customers get their very own My Little Pony look. 01/

03/ TRAVELLING IN STYLE London taxis recently received a makeover from Havaianas to mark the launch of the flip-flop brand’s summer campaign, #TaxiToSummer. Celebrating the summer season, a fleet of iconic London black cabs with oversized flip-flops on the roofs cruised around London’s landmarks on Summer Solstice day, with branded taxis continuing to drive around the capital throughout the summer. 04/ ACCESSORY LESSON FOR THE BBC The film crew from the BBC’s Escape to the Country series was given a lesson in traditional glove-making during a recent visit to accessory manufacturer Dents. The crew, including presenter Jules Hudson, spent a few hours at the factory as they met Dents’ team of skilled traditional craftsmen and watched the glove-making process including leather-cutting and handsewing. “Jules was especially interested in the hand-sewing techniques and also how to measure the size of a hand,” says Dents chief executive Deborah Moore. “This is so important to ensure the ‘perfect fit’ that has helped make Dents such an iconic brand.” The TV crew also visited the Dents private museum to see the collection of historic gloves and artefacts. The episode featuring Dents will be screened later this year.

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day dresses event dresses

Selling dates: Programme 1: 7 July â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 31 July Programme 2: 2 August â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3 September Contact: Chris Foster-Orr or Aimee Brown Tel: 020 7636 7111 Email: info@fosfashion.co.uk F.O.S Fashion Marketing, 4th floor Morley House, 320 Regent Street, London W1B 3BF

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Talking Point

Your views on the issues shaping the industry The agent view: What we can learn from brand Wimbledon

The retailer view: Perceived value rather than price

When it comes to the Sale, we tend to be influenced far less by what other stores are doing than our own precedent and what our customers are used to. It’s very important that we respect the loyalty our customers give to us and that they have a firm idea of when we will start our Sale. Rather than introduce a flash, impulsive Sale, we always publish our summer and winter Sale dates on the

I love sports, and can play most to a spectacularly mediocre standard. When it comes to exercise, I have been the queen of mediocrity all my life. I particularly love tennis and was blown away by Wimbledon last month. It wasn’t just the tennis that had me hooked, it was the realisation of how much SW19 has transformed itself. An institution renowned for being archaic and set in its ways has done a complete and utter U-turn. It got me thinking that whether you are an independent retailer, a store, an agent or a brand, we can always up our game. Mid championship, we at Latte decided to reposition our own thought process and take a closer look at brand Wimbledon. We may not have the budget of the AELTC, but surely the principles and strategies can readily be applied to all of us? Quiet please while we put our thinking caps on and look for any ideas to help improve and grow our businesses. Game, set and match for researching and listening to their target audience. The new-look, socially savvy Wimbledon is much more customerfocused, with the viewer at the centre of everything. There has clearly been an openness to change by seeking advice from digital marketing experts. The re-branding is excellent; the purple

and green gives a strong brand identity with great design, and is visually impactful. Taking the brand identity and utilising powerful tools such as Twitter, Instagram and Facebook etc has enabled our friends at SW19 to reach out and express themselves, showing a personality we never thought they had. From the moment you “click”, the whole customer experience has been enhanced in a very professional, compelling and relevant manner. Search-friendly, easily navigated with content being shared constantly. Also courting our attention is their mobile app, which is fast becoming readily available to all businesses, including the small and medium sectors. Blogging is another key part of the marketing strategy to expand the Wimbledon network, and it’s used in a way that we learn what makes the brand tick. And the result? We won’t be taking our eye off the ball in terms of product and design, but we have re-shaped our thinking with regard to digital marketing. We now have a “to-do list”, which we are going to action and implement over the next few months. Watch this space at Latte.

website well in advance. We want to be totally transparent in our service, so our customers have a clear choice of how and when to spend their money. They can either purchase something at full price during the season or wait until the Sale to buy it at a discount. The exchange is clear and they know that the item may sell before they come in during the Sale. Our regular customers are rewarded by finding an item that they may have their eye on, but which was previously out of their price range. And we have another customer entirely who visits only for the Sale. It’s important that the needs of both customers are met. As far as mid-season discounting is concerned, we simply cannot afford to do this. Discounting our merchandise mid season is not compatible with running a business and making a small profit. We need to make those sales to pay our suppliers, staff and fixed costs, and meet our overheads. A shortened full-price selling season does little to help this. Having said that, we do need to clear our end-of-season stock twice a year, and I will do this

by the end of July to make space for the arrival of new collections. I think it’s fair to say it would be hard to come by a profiteering and greedy independent retailer. The prices we attach to our goods are intended to enable us to make a living rather than lead a life of luxury. I truly believe the price we attach to our tickets is the true cost of the product, and our customers respect that. It makes no sense to compete on price, and I imagine that our brands would not be pleased if we did. I would much rather serve our existing and future customers with an exceptional shopping experience and fantastic collections than attract their custom by discounting. At the end of the day, I believe that our customers trust us to deliver the best ranges at good value, and we trust them to value quality above price.

Adele Black, creative director, Latte Clothing.

Anne Rowe, founder and owner, Walkers of Pottergate in Norwich, and member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB). www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

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Starting out as the designer clearance cousin to Net-a-Porter in 2009, The Outnet has fast become a retail giant and brand in its own right. Tom Bottomley gets the inside story on The Outnet’s rise from president Stephanie Phair.

Tom Bottomley: What did you think you could bring to the table for the launch of The Outnet back in 2009? Stephanie Phair: I moved from New York to London and this job came up. It only feels like yesterday, but in internet years it’s a long time ago. Things have massively accelerated since 2009. At the time, there weren’t many people who had e-commerce, retail and fashion experience. Whereas I did, with my background at Vogue magazine, working with brands, and in PR and marketing at Issey Miyake. But I also worked for a proper e-commerce start up called Portero for three and a half years – which was a marketplace for very high-end vintage and pre-owned items. It was really the first business that entered into that space. TB: Was it a tough challenge? SP: Well, now there are so many of those companies around, and they are very successful and getting all the attention from the venture capitalists and private equity firms. But at the time, there wasn’t an advantage to being the first mover. When this job came up it was an amazing opportunity to do a start up with an established company in Net-a-Porter. I could utilise my experience in both fashion and e-commerce, with all the fundamentals of online marketing and general management. If you go back to 2009, Net-a-Porter was nowhere near the size it is now, but it punched massively above its weight in terms of name and reputation. It really was the pioneer in this space on a global level, and I felt I had to get involved.

STEPHANIE PHAIR PRESIDENT, THE OUTNET

TB: Did The Outnet effectively start out as the Sale shop for Net-a-Porter? SP: Yes, and before I started the Net-a-Porter team had begun working on the concept and general sense of the business model. It was definitely an idea that came from Net-a-Porter founder Natalie Massenet and her team. I was really hired to bring it altogether for the launch and take it from there. Net-aPorter already had a Sale section on its site, and it was doing pretty well and ticking along, but the sense was it just sat there and wasn’t being leveraged properly. Natalie’s view was there was a customer specifically for the Sale product that you needed to market to and brand. Net-a-Porter could then focus on its full-price business, and another entity could focus on the

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off-price side. So the idea was to be an outlet for Net-a-Porter primarily, but also to build a standalone brand. If you fast forward six years, we’re still an outlet for Net-a-Porter, but the proportion of excess stock that we buy directly from brands is now far superior. TB: At what sort of level? SP: Around 90 per cent of our stock comes directly from labels. So we are very much a standalone brand. In fact, only between seven and 10 per cent of stock now comes from Net-a-Porter. At first, obviously the Net-a-Porter name helped to open doors with brands, and gave us a big leg up, but it certainly didn’t close deals. Our selling point was that their product was going to end up discounted online anyway, whether they liked it or not, so why not have it managed properly by someone who would protect the brand name. It also made sense for them to work on the full price with Net-a-Porter and the off-price with us, so it was a full 360-degree relationship. It meant they could understand the journey of their stock, and it enabled Net-aPorter to be able to take more risks with buying. The buying teams on both sides have to be in sync and understand that it’s one relationship. The Outnet now accounts for around 18 per cent of the overall business. TB: Is it all previous-season stock? SP: It could be a couple of seasons back as well – it depends. We tend to not go too far back because our customer still wants an edited, relevant selection. And, of course, it has to be relevant to the season. TB: Who is The Outnet’s customer? SP: She’s an affluent, high net-worth individual, with an average individual income of around £110,000 a year. She’s around 38 years old, spends a lot on fashion, and buys full-price, discount and vintage. She also trades up, by discovering brands on The Outnet and going on to buy them full price. Her friends don’t necessarily know what is right off the runway, so she doesn’t necessarily need that. We have all that data, and we enable her to express her creativity through styling and fashion. The mixand-match approach is really important.

TB: How much of your business is done in the UK? SP: Around 22 per cent. Around 30 per cent of our business is in the US, but we’ve not really scratched the surface there yet, so there is plenty of opportunity for growth. We source globally, and have a team in New York. Fast-growing markets are also China, Hong Kong, Singapore and the Middle East. TB: How have you distinguished yourselves from the flux of “flash Sale” sites? SP: It is a route we did originally consider, as all the talk at the time was about that format. But we took the decision to go the way we did because, as a business, we were experts in editorial content, marketing, merchandising, product selection, positioning and creating desirability. For us it wasn’t about doing it solely through price and urgency; that was not our DNA. So we decided to go for an open model, which was quite risky at the time, because brands in many ways endorsed the flash Sale model because it was “behind a velvet rope”, so to speak. It was the e-commerce equivalent of the sample Sale, which every brand understands. However, long-term, our strategy has paid off. We’ve shown we’re not just a commercial partner to brands, but a marketing partner in the way we position them. A turning point for us was getting Alaïa on board, and other early important anchor brands were the likes of Valentino, Chloe and Christian Louboutin – big, high-impact labels. TB: How is The Outnet’s own label, Iris & Ink, developing? SP: We introduced it in 2012 as an experiment – a laboratory of ideas. A few seasons in, it’s grown into a brand in its own right. It’s about filling the gaps and fulfilling our customers’ needs with the pieces they desire to mix-and-match with the designer pieces. TB: What is your view on the merger with Italian designer outlet Yoox? SP: I think it’s really exciting. It’s about scale and growth, as well as the ability to cover multiple geographies and customer segments while remaining customer-centric and focused on our positioning. We can be the best partner to the brands because we can offer them a number of different formats. We’re only at the beginning of the journey.

SPRING SUMMER 2016

MODA UK: STAND J20 9th-11th AUGUST 2015 AIS INDX: 5th-7th AUGUST 2015 www.tradeatemreco.com

0845 345 1914

info@emreco.co.uk

Spring Summer 2016

MODA UK: STAND J20 9th-11th AUGUST 2015 AIS INDX: 5th-7th AUGUST 2015 www.tradeatemreco.com

0845 345 1914

info@emreco.co.uk

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Going Dutch After a six-year hiatus, Dutch brand Claudia Sträter is re-entering the UK for s/s 16, presenting a streamlined, contemporary collection founded on the successful core DNA of the label, but firmly aimed at today’s consumer. Isabella Griffiths caught up with the team behind the brand to find out its plans going forward.

When Dutch label Claudia Sträter withdrew from the UK in 2009 after 14 years in the country, it came as quite a shock to most of its approximately 120 stockists. The brand had been a much-loved collection among indies, and its departure left a hole in many stores’ product portfolios. Back then, the label’s management decided to exit all of its export countries and focus on its domestic market while undergoing an internal restructuring process. “We had grown rapidly and were very successful, and in many ways we had become a victim of our own success,” says Frits Helmstrijd, managing director of Claudia Sträter. “We had become a little too fashionable and stylish; we were moving away from our brand signature, and our customer wasn’t recognising us anymore. “So we had to pick up the pieces, recover and reorganise the troops, as they say,” he continues. “We started to put the focus back on our core market, on our core customer and on our core DNA, and we gradually pulled it back. By 2010, we were back on track, but we decided to take things step-by-step and focus on our home markets first, getting it spot on, before going back into exporting.” In 2012, the company was taken over by Belgian FNG Group, which also owns womenswear labels Expresso, Van Hassels and CKS, as well as children’s ranges Fred & Ginger and Baker Bridge. It further put the brand on solid foundations, and now, six years after it first withdrew from the UK, Claudia Sträter is making a welcome return for s/s 16, with fashion agency Apt Collections – which previously represented the range – once again heading the UK distribution. “We’ve decided that it’s a good time to re-enter the UK market,” says Helmstrijd. “We’re in a good place as a company and brand, and we feel we are ready to give it another push. “I called my trusted agents Nigel and Claudia [Hughes, owners of Apt Collections] and we started chatting again,” he continues. “And here we are. It’s familiar territory, and it’s nice

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to be working with the ‘old’ team again, as we always had a great relationship. Saying that, it’s all very well having a good relationship, but if you don’t have a good product – the right product – you can forget the rest.” Helmstrijd is clearly a product man, emphasising repeatedly the importance of the “right” collection that customers can identify with and that hits the spot in terms of appeal and commerciality. Luckily for the company – and UK indies – he is confident that this time around Claudia Sträter is exactly where it needs to be, appealing to the 35-plus woman, with a contemporary, well-made collection and a lifestyle look that sits comfortably alongside the likes of Max Mara Weekend, Luisa Cerano and Marc Cain. The man in charge of the Claudia Sträter handwriting is head of design Ger-Jan De Gilde, who has managed the balancing act between refocusing on the core values of the brand while keeping it relevant to today’s customer. “Over the last few years, we brought back the collection to its former DNA, but also with today’s fashion and trends interpreted,” says De Gilde. “Our target audience, signature and product mix are still the same as when the brand was founded, but we are also relevant to today’s consumer. “Our target customer hasn’t changed, but the way she dresses has, and we have adapted,” he continues. “She would like to wear Claudia Sträter for every occasion, such as going to work, having dinner in the restaurant or taking a walk on the beach, and we are catering for all of that. We are proud of the fact that our products provide a city look, but also represent a business look with blazers, skirts and dresses, as well as the casual look with fine knits and luxury tops for every moment of the day.” In addition to the Claudia Sträter main label, the company also offers a dedicated outerwear collection, Maura, and has also launched a new jeans line for s/s 16 that complements the vast product mix of 250 pieces in each range. With retail prices set between £29 and £599, the collection is pitched just above

mid-market and under the top-end of the spectrum, with Helmstrijd keen to emphasise the value for money of the line. “We are unbeatable on our price-quality ratio – you can challenge me on that,” he offers. This confidence is shared by agent Nigel Hughes, who is looking to return the brand to its former levels of success in the UK. “I think our long-term goal would be to get it into 80-100 stockists eventually, but we will be building it slowly and working together with our retail partners,” he says. “The initial reaction has been brilliant; there is a lot of excitement among indies that the label is finally back.” While wholesale is the focus for the UK expansion, Claudia Stäter’s roots are in retail. Founded in 1970 when Utrecht fashion house Claudia Mode and Modehuis Sträter from Amsterdam joined forces, the brand has 28 own stores in The Netherlands, as well as two outlets and 10 shop-in-shops in renowned stores, with further seven recent openings in Belgium and another new store in Germany. “We come from retail,” says Helmstrijd. “Most companies start in wholesale and then open shops, but we have always operated retail and then went into wholesale. We know what works in retail, and can react accordingly. We are geared towards retail – which helps us immensely with our wholesale clients, too, because we understand the challenges of the market.” Going forward, the brand is looking to expand its export territories further, with Switzerland and Southern Europe a focus, and e-commerce is also expected to become a strong division in the future. “I see e-commerce as a huge growth area for us,” says Helmstrijd. “We’ve only just started, but the fact that women can buy what they want, where they want, when they want on whatever device is wonderful. “But dealing with all the technical developments and the whole omni-channel set-up, as well as asserting our brand identity within it is a challenge,” he continues. “As we’ve done before, we will take it step by step and make sure that we get it right.” www.claudiastrater.com

Spring/Summer 2016 SIZE RANGE: 8-30 GODSKE KIRSTEN KROG DESIGN JORLI HABELLA ROBELL FRANDSEN OUTERWEAR TIA I’CONA Q NEEL QUÉ REFA THAT’S ME BY JAGRO — The Gallery - Dusseldorf 22-28 July 2015 Fashion House 1 2nd Floor - Room 247 to 251 Pure Exhibition Olympia 2-4 August 2015 Stand H130 - H120 London Showroom also open Sat 1st and Sun 2nd August 2015 Weekend of Pure CIFF- Copenhagen 5-9 August 2015 Bella Centre Stand B3 – 241 MODA UK – NEC Birmingham 9-11 August 2015 Hall 18 - stand nos I30 – J30 – J31 Dublin Showroom Fashion City with a Special Event on Sunday 16-Tuesday 18 August 2015

LONDON SHOWROOM: Godske Group UK. Showroom: 65 Margaret Street, London W1W 8SP Tel: 0207 636 3063 Fax: 0207 636 3863 Email: pug@godske.com DUBLIN SHOWROOM: Godske Group Ireland, Unit 5, Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: 00353 1 4295042 Fax: 00353 1 4295043

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Style File

The hottest brands not to miss this month

t TO DYE FOR This autumn sees the arrival of luxury leather goods label Tinct, which is fronted by siblings Ben and Rosie Broad. They share a vision and appreciation of high-quality British craftsmanship combined with a dash of understated originality. Debut pieces include a selection of refined vegetable-tanned leather handbags and wallets, all made in the UK.

u LONDON CALLING Outerwear label Parka London is drawing inspiration from the streets of the capital, and delves into all things spring for s/s 16. In keeping with the brand ethos, classic pieces are given a modern twist whereby silhouettes are playful, while fabric and trims have enhanced technical detailing. Parkas build the basis of the collections and are inspired by utilitywear synonymous with London street trends but with an added luxe feel, featuring double-weave cottons, multi-pocket jackets, short shirt jackets and various parka weights.

ICONIC COLLABORATION The Cambridge Satchel Company and Vivienne Westwood have teamed up to produce a limited-edition range of collectors’ bags for a/w 15. The line combines The Cambridge Satchel Company’s classic design and Vivienne Westwood’s iconic squiggle print in new and exclusive colourways.

t THE KNITTY GRITTY Eleven Everything is a British luxury knitwear label, fusing traditional craftsmanship with contemporary techniques to create striking pieces with timeless authenticity. For a/w 15, the brand is developing its hero pieces further, with chunky knit fingerless gloves, beanie hats, collars and hoods reinvented in fresh, new colourways. The label’s floor-length rib scarf and XL rib wrap are among the key pieces.

p BAGS FOR BEACH BUMS Swymbags is a new range of bags to hold mobile phones, cash, cameras and other valuables while at the beach or on holiday. The brand is the creation of two former city workers and combines smart engineering with fashion to create 100 per cent waterproof bags. The range includes a bum bag, shoulder bag and backpack.

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Fashion Radar

G-LAB Urban elegance dominates G-Lab’s womenswear offering, mixing a distinct avant-garde edge with the brand’s signature performance DNA. German brand G-Lab is the own brand of a former design agency for Harley Davidson, which launched the label in 2010. With a strong motorbike heritage, the brand has performance and technical excellence at its core, though it doesn’t leave anything to be desired when it comes to its fashion credentials either. Offering premium outerwear, the range sports a clean and urban look with a high degree of technical attributes. With styles retailing between £430 and £699, G-Lab sits alongside the likes of Hugo Boss and Belstaff, and will appeal to premium indies and department stores that are looking for the ultimate jacket brand for a style-conscious, urban customer. For s/s 16, the label uses asymmetric cuts and intricate detailing, with avant-garde influences creating a confident, understated look using waterproof and breathable fabrics and a colour palette of clay, navy and black. It’s a relaxed and yet sophisticated style that will look great teamed with jeans and boots or chinos and brogues. The label is represented in the UK by fashion agency Love Brands. www.g-lab.com

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01/ NEON ROSE £12.50 0161 835 2064 • 02/ GLAMOROUS £8.50 0161 8192 229 • 03/ MATTHEW WILLIAMSON £74 020 7713 1105 • 04/ PEOPLE TREE £6 020 7042 8920 • 05/ KIREI £72 020 7221 6663 • 06/ BEAUTIFUL SOUL LONDON Price on request 020 7377 6030 • 07/ LYDC £12.50 0161 8315 762 • 08/ BELLFIELD £9.50 020 7739 7620 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

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Flexing the muscles The increasingly active lifestyle of the modern consumer has given rise to a number of performancewear brands that are crossing the lines between sports and fashion, creating a new, lucrative niche in the market for fashion independents. Isabella Griffiths takes a look at the growth of the sector and the elements driving it.

In today’s health and image obsessed world, where looking and feeling good is increasingly important, it was only a matter of time before sportswear would come into the fashion spotlight. Busy and active lifestyles have become part and parcel of today’s modern consumer, and an increasing number of brands and retailers are catering for this trend. Retailers from all market levels have introduced active and sportswear lines to their product mix, from Missguided and Forever 21 through Urban Outfitters and New Look to Net-a-porter, which created its Net-a-sporter division to cater for this trend. The recent success of US label Fabletics, whose credentials are firmly based on being stylish as well as functional, has further increased the focus on the active and sportswear market. What all of these have in common is a strong emphasis on performance, but also on fashion, with the lines between the two becoming increasingly blurred and the definition of “lifestyle” increasingly associated with the term “active”. But it’s not just the high street and Net-a-porter that are cottoning on to this growing trend, the branded sector has also seen a wealth of labels coming through that are specifically combining sports and activewear with a high degree of style, and are targeting fashion stores instead of sportswear specialists. One such brand is Australian label We Are Handsome, which added an activewear line with a strong focus on fashion two seasons ago. The brand was created in 2009 as a predominantly swimwear range, and was instantly picked up by high-profile stockists such as Opening Ceremony, Net-a-porter and Barneys. It has since evolved its range to include activewear for an array of disciplines while playing in the top league of fashion. “Our first foray into the activewear market was quite an organic step, which coincided with the start of a health-driven trend,” says designer and director Katinka Somers. “Activewear is

fast becoming “regular” wear, and boutiques are wise to this and have the ability to include this element in a streetwear fusion.” It’s the desire to look good in any situation – including the gym – which is driving the fashionable sportswear trend. Fashion agency Love Brands, which sells womenswear labels such as Nu, JQ and Anonyme, recently expanded its product portfolio with the distribution of Elle Sport. While Elle Sport has been around for many years, the brand has recently repositioned its premium sportswear line Black Label, bridging sportswear with womenswear. And it is this collection that is specifically targeted at independent fashion boutiques, with the label showing at this month’s Moda. “Sports fashion is no longer restricted to the sportswear sector since the boundaries have blurred,” says Michael Shalder, director of Love Brands. “Lifestyle collections now encompass premium sportswear as women are embracing sport as part of their lifestyle fashion choices. There was a need to provide these customers with a feminine and well-designed option for sportswear, without the need to visit a pure sports retailer. Women no longer separate their exercise regime from the rest of their lifestyle. What they wear to a yoga class or the gym is part of how they live their life, so they want to look fashionable for this activity and maybe pop to the shops or for a coffee afterwards.” This is mirrored by Stella Heng, creative director of Sports Philosophy, a new activewear label that made its market entry last month. “Increasingly, women hang out during the day and weekend in leggings and trainers,” she says. “Given the growth of the health and fitness industry, more and more women are working out so, before and after their workouts, they hang out in their gear, which makes it important for the pieces to be fashionable.

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“There are many reasons that are driving this trend,” continues Heng. “Firstly, our society’s increasing awareness of the importance of health and fitness has driven the growing fitness market, and people are caring a lot more about what they are wearing in the gym or to their fitness classes. “Secondly, the impact of social media cannot be underestimated either, as women don’t want to be seen in average workout clothes any more,” she adds. “And, finally, in London and Europe, we are slowly acting up to markets such as the US or Australia, where women hang out in their sportswear clothes even if they are not at the gym. Given this trend, it is important that the outfits are fashionable and not just performancewear.” The fashion element may play a key part in the success of the collections, however it’s not to be underestimated that today’s consumers are not willing to compromise on the performance aspect, either, which is why most labels emphasis fashion and functionality and not one over the other. “Both fashion and performance are equally important, and we have done our best not to sacrifice either in our collection and will aim to continue placing an emphasis on both in our future collections,” says Heng. “In the end, we are a sportswear label, so our clothes must assist performance, but I also recognise the importance of the fashion element, which plays a great importance.” Shalders agrees, “Neither element can be compromised. It is for this reason that fashionable sportswear can justify the premium price, and womenswear retailers can feel confident that its adjacency with womenswear makes this price plausible.” It is a logical step that activewear commands its own product category within fashion stores, with those involved in the market believing it is a trend that is here to stay and gain momentum. “This is only the start of activewear breaking the conventions of streetwear and acceptable everyday attire,” says Somers. “Quite like denim, which came in, made itself a mainstay and has evolved over time, activewear is here to stay, and it will be shaped and formed to our ever-evolving lifestyles by high-end houses and high-street retailers for years

SPORTS PHILOSOPHY (PICTURED) IS ONE OF MANY LABELS CATERING FOR THE GROWING DEMAND OF PERFORMANCEWEAR WITH A HIGH-FASHION CONTENT

to come,” says Somers. And Shalders concurs, “Much like denim 10 years ago, I think sports fashion is a category that womenswear retailers will no longer want to ignore.” Love Brands has positioned Elle Sport with a key retail partner, and is looking to roll it out to fashion boutiques across the country. “For us, fashion boutiques will be the main focus,” says Shalders.“Elle Sport’s premium Black Label will appeal primarily to fashion stores.” We Are Handsome’s distribution strategy is based on fashion stores, too. “Due to our desire not to saturate the market, we are primarily stocked in fashion retailers,” says Somers. “As each market is so varied in its needs, so too our stockist strategy varies from market to market as boutiques are interpreting the trend in different ways. In the UK and Europe, for instance, we’ve seen an uptake from fashion retailers whereas, in the US and Australia, the demand for activewear has been driven by specialist retailers.” The fashion/activewear market is arguably still in its infancy, but it is clear that a growing number of players are entering this niche. As developments in fabric technology continue to improve the performance aspect of sportswear and the fashion content is equally increased, so will the synergies between sports and fashion retail – and the potential for more brands and more stockists to come through is considerable. “It’s going to get very crowded as more and more labels try their hand at this form-fitting fashion trend,” says Somers. “Crowded does mean competitive and competitive means more variety, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, but it does make for a challenge for customers in a market filled with lesser quality and more mass-produced garments.” Shalders echoes this sentiment, “I think sportswear will continue to grow and take a larger share in womenswear fashion. There will be more scope from high-impact performancewear through to loungewear for the less intense activities, but the two sectors of fashion and sports will definitely merge and influence each other as the boundaries between different aspects of our lifestyle continue to merge, too.” Looks like the market had better shape up.

Turn overleaf for a round-up of some of the key activewear brands. uuu

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High performance WWB takes a look at the key active and sportswear labels combining technical aspects with a huge dose of style.

SPORTS PHILOSOPHY q

WE ARE HANDSOME

STAEFIT q

VARLEY Varley is a contemporary lifestyle brand founded by Londoners Ben and Lara Mead. It started with swimwear, but has since evolved to also include an activewear range, which was launched earlier this year. The couple split their time between London and California, with influences from both cities visible in the collection. Exclusive prints and sexy shapes sum up the line, which is aimed at city-dwelling women in the 25-35 age bracket, with retail prices ranging between £45 and £90.

ELLE SPORT

ELLE SPORT Elle Sport recently repositioned its premium sportswear range, with its Black Label collection specifically aimed at fashion independents and bridging sports and fashion. Designed in the UK, the collection consists of activewear, performancewear and loungewear created with functionality, femininity and fashion

SPORTS PHILOSOPHY Sports Philosophy is a new London women’s and men’s sportswear brand, with its debut collection having entered the market for s/s 15. Sports Philosophy focuses on top-quality performancewear, featuring unique print designs and reflective artwork to carry the wearer through workout and beyond. Fine Italian fabrics that are breathable, sweat-wicking and UVprotective form the base of every garment. Recycled Polyamide with a light compression fit is also used to assist with blood flow, enhancing performance. The label is pitched at the affordable luxury market, with retail prices at £48 for bra tops, £78 for leggings, and £98 for post-workout wraps.

VARLEY

STAEFIT StaeFit is a new launch by Canadian-born pop singer Stacey Jackson. The collection’s USP is its hypo-allergenic, ultraabsorbent fabric, which was developed exclusively in collaboration with sports fabric technologists and dermatologists. The range includes patented, front-closing tops and sports bras, as well as complementing leggings. Retail prices for tops average at £69.99, and leggings at £49.99.

in mind. Retail prices are £39 for a performance vest top with built-in bra support, £40 for leggings, and £49 for a jacket with hood and pockets.

WE ARE HANDSOME The brand was launched in 2009 as a high-end swimwear label, but expanded into activewear in January, with its latest performancewear offering, Heat 2, quickly snapped up by fashion stockists around the world. Pitched at the luxury end of the market, prices range between £54 and £450. The label has expanded its initial graphic printed capsule range with a variety of fashion-inspired, techy apparel pieces that hold the equally eye-catching signature designs for which the brand has become synonymous.

Following a very successful launch in Italy, Venus Bridal UK are seeking to promote, throughout Europe, our Evening, Special Occasion and Mother of the Bride Collections. We are looking for Experienced Sales Agents to cover UK, Ireland, Europe and Scandinavia. Applications are welcome by submitting your current CV to: Mrs D Booth-Lydon Venus Bridal UK, Unit 9 West Leeds Industrial Park 547 Stanningley Road, Leeds LS13 4EN Tel: 0113 256 9627

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The

HEART of

moda

WWB’s comprehensive guide to s/s 16 at the industry’s national trade event

Moda White... 46 Moda Woman... 48 Moda Footwear... 54 Moda Accessories... 58 Moda Lingerie & Swimwear... 62 What’s on at Moda... 68

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Moda White LAURA BERNAL puts the focus on clean and ultra-feminine silhouettes, with high-quality fabrics, textures and detailing creating a modern and sophisticated collection. JAMES LAKELAND is building on the success of its separates line, with pull-on stretch trousers and knitwear key, and new yarns, colours and textures added. ELISA CAVALETTI is a total-look collection with easy-to-wear clothes for special events as well as everyday glamour. Prints, colours and textures blend with original detailing and accessories for chic yet wearable style. LATTE’s s/s 16 range features an array of fresh summer hues alongside fluid silhouettes, focusing on edgy knitwear, quirky tops, textured tunics and its signature sleeved tulip hem dresses. PAOLA’s clean signature is enhanced by a play of textures and detailing this season. Dresses are key, ranging from chic and elegant occasion styles to glamorous looks for everydaywear. NÜ offers cool, relaxed womenswear with a touch of bohemia. Simple, natural materials, toned-down colours and carefully designed detailing such as embroidery and stitching are key. LAUREN VIDAL’s handwriting includes immaculate soft tailoring coupled with unstructured knits and easy-yet-elegant dresses in combinations of lace, voiles and silks. EVA TRALALA offers new silhouettes to suit a range of shapes and sizes in an array of colours. The brand’s trademark linens are bolstered by soft jersey – plain or striped – with layering pieces or standalone styles. LÉO GUY is introducing a host of new shapes and fabrics to its collection for s/s 16, appealing to a wider age group.

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LAURA BERNAL STAND G50 NEW LAUNCH JAMES LAKELAND STAND I51 ELISA CAVALET TI STAND I70 LATTE STAND I60 PAOLA STAND I58 NÜ STAND G7 1 NEW LAUNCH LAUREN VIDAL STAND H58 NEW LAUNCH EVA TRALALA STAND J68 LÉO GUY STAND I7 1

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Moda Woman RONEN CHEN plays on various textures and materials this season. Modern simplicity, clean shapes and natural, luxurious fabrics are key. FABER includes three main colour stories for s/s 16 with a focus on contrasting elements and combinations of knits and quilting on sleeves, strips, pockets and other details. CRAGHOPPERSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; relaxed and sporty collection heavily features jersey dresses, linen tops and lightweight cottons featuring for the new season. LEBEKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chic and yet understated daytime looks borrow from the sports-luxe theme for s/s 16. Lightweight jackets and blazers are key, as are co-ordinating separates that match but also stand on their own. MARBLE offers lightweight knits in soft and elegant yarns, jersey that drapes the silhouette, printed co-ordinates and figure-flattering jeans in a raft of colours for s/s 16. TARA VAO is designed in Paris and produced in Bali, and offers easy-to-wear clothing with beautiful shapes and soft fabrics ensuring the ultimate in casual and comfy chic. POMODORO provides a new take on classic glamour this season. Modern silhouettes and effortless separates sit alongside delicate florals and graphics for a contemporary look. ZUCKERWATTE is a shirt and knitwear collection consisting of 100 per cent cashmere knitwear, silk/cashmere knitwear and silk/cotton shirts and blouses. Jumpers, cardigans, scarves and stoles complete the range.

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07 06

01/ 02/ 03/ 04/ 05/ 06/ 07/ 08/

RONEN CHEN STAND J59 FABER STAND H28 CRAGHOPPERS STAND K58 NEW LAUNCH LEBEK STAND H11 NEW LAUNCH MARBLE STAND J10 TARA VAO STAND K10 POMODORO STAND I10 ZUCKERWATTE STAND K50 NEW LAUNCH

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Moda Woman ADINI puts the spotlight on dresses this season, with linen shift dresses, sundresses and tea dresses all featuring. Nature-inspired prints on floaty tops and a safari vibe also sum up the range. BRAINTREE has moved into a more fashion-forward and contemporary direction for s/s 16, which sees the introduction of more exclusive prints. TIA offers colourful separates with a focus on dresses, which will take the wearer from day to night, with feminine cuts and flattering fabrics key. EMRECO focuses on cool linen knits, easy jersey dresses and sophisticated summer tees in soft cherry blossom motifs, painterly hydrangea prints and a nautical palette. MARIE MERO presents a feminine collection of contemporary styles, referencing key trends in a wearable manner. Prints and colour play a big part, with dresses and coordinating separates particular highlights. BIANCAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature look is relaxed-casual, with sporty accents key. Soft fabrics and fluid textures form the basis of the range, with gentle, complementing hues adding to the effect. CPM is the younger collection of German label Christa Probst, offering a contemporary range with clean lines and flattering cuts aimed at the modern woman. ROBELL is a feminine, classic and sportive trouser range with fashionable embellishments in flattering body shapes and styles. Decorative fabrics with floral, animal and ornamental prints and jacquards in an array of colours are prevalent throughout. HENRY ARROWAY returns with a contemporary collection of jackets and trench coats, with an array of chic and elegant to more sporty styles. The colour palette is wide, offering bold and more subtle hues.

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09 08

01/ 02/ 03/ 04/ 05/ 06/ 07/ 08/ 09/

ADINI STAND K11 BRAINTREE STAND M18 TIA STAND J31 EMRECO STAND I21 MARIE MERO STAND J21 BIANCA STAND I20 CPM STAND K50 ROBELL STAND I3 0 HENRY ARROWAY STAND J61

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Moda Footwear SUPERGA combines clean, contemporary aesthetics with its century old Italian craftsmanship for an authentic collection of casual footwear. SEBAGO celebrates 70 years this year, and will launch an exclusive anniversary range of its sailing heritage footwear at the show. HUSH PUPPIES returns to Moda Footwear following an absence of several seasons with a comprehensive new line, featuring updated versions of the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most popular silhouettes. LISA KAY presents a new collection of co-ordinating shoes and accessories at the show, encapsulating all the trends of the wider womenswear industry. THINK designs around a philosophy of incorporating no solvents or chemicals into its production without any compromise on style for a range designed to make customers stop and think. IPANEMA brings the beach glamour to the sidewalks of Brazil to the aisles of Moda Footwear with its vibrant new range of distinctive summer shoes. LEMON JELLY arrives from Portugal as a new exhibitor amid the fragrant scent of lemons that sets its colourful shoes apart from the rest. OKA B makes its UK trade debut this season, arriving from the US as a revolutionised version of ballet flats and flip-flops, targeting spa hotels and the luxury traveller. AIGLE makes a welcome return to Moda, combining French authenticity and craftsmanship with the contemporary direction that appeals to the festival-goer and lifestyle consumer. IRREGULAR CHOICE is renowned across the globe for its quirky identity and statement shoes, and the home-grown British label makes a welcome debut at the show this season.

05 07

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10 09 08

01/ 02/ 03/ 04/ 05/ 06/ 07/ 08/ 09/ 10/

SUPERGA STAND V3 SEBAGO STAND V2 NEW LAUNCH HUSH PUPPIES STAND V8 NEW LAUNCH LISA KAY STAND T10 THINK STAND S3 0 IPANEMA STAND X3 LEMON JELLY STAND T15 NEW LAUNCH OKA B STAND X4 NEW LAUNCH AIGLE STAND S4 IRREGULAR CHOICE STAND W10 NEW LAUNCH

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MARIE & BELLA

BEST SELLERS SPRING /SUMMER 2015 N.O.S.

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Moda Accessories ELIZA GRACIOUS returns to the Adorned section with a directional range of jewellery in a variety of finishes designed to stand alone as well as merchandising seamlessly into wider womenswear collections. PIA ROSSINI undergoes a rebranding for s/s 16, bringing its identity in line with its ever-evolving handwriting of stylish accessories with a glamorous edge. The label will also introduce jewellery into its offer. DENTS returns to Moda with a new collection celebrating its wealth of heritage and fine craftsmanship while acknowledging wider trends in its own, understated fashion. HELEN MOORE is a British company specialising in transforming the luxury of faux fur into accessories including boot toppers, hats, scarves and shrugs. ACCESSORIES BY PARK LANE is a family owned company offering a comprehensive collection of jewellery, incorporating leather, pearl, diamantĂŠ and gemstones into contemporary designs. GABY is a firm favourite with womenswear buyers thanks to its wide range of seasonal shades and potential to complement. MISS MILLY presents its most comprehensive collection to date following a period of steady growth. Colours this season centre around striking merchandising combinations of cranberry, amethyst and peacock blue. BOLLA BAGS takes inspiration from country lifestyles, highlighting the classic and timelessly elegant style of distinctive British rural life. BODENSCHATZ has been established since 1927, and combines style with practicality within its range of leather accessories for both women and men. BETTY BARCLAY ACCESSORIES offers a carefully designed selection of on-trend styles and classic basics across its offer of handbags for the contemporary consumer.

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ELIZA GRACIOUS STAND R68 PIA ROSSINI STAND B50 DENTS STAND MF01 HELEN MOORE STAND O30

05/ 06/ 07/ 08/ 09/ 10/

ACCESSORIES BY PARK LANE STAND O78 GABY STAND N10 MISS MILLY STAND P7 1 BOLLA BAGS STAND O38 BODENSCHATZ STAND O28 BETTY BARCLAY ACCESSORIES STAND O28

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Showing this season at: Moda Woman, NEC Birmingham, Stand H38 Pure London, Olympia London, Stand J80 Magic Las Vegas, 17 - 19 August

www.ellaboo.ie

IRELAND Ella Boo Limited Unit 36 Fashion City, Ballymount, Dublin 24 Tel: + 353 – 1 – 4295709 / 4295553 Email: info@ellaboo.ie

UNITED KINGDOM Tate Fashions Bermuda Fashion House, 64B Roseville Road, Leeds LS8 5DR Tel: + 44 – 1132 – 459064 Fax: +44 – 1132 – 436547 Email: info@ellaboo.ie

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Moda Lingerie WACOAL unveils two key lines – Purity and Enchanting (pictured) – focusing on everyday but beautiful styles and decadent design respectively. PASSIONATA is a fashion-orientated lingerie label designed around playful seduction without any compromise to the elegance associated with its French heritage. CHANTELLE is renowned the world over for its elegant design and extensive French heritage. This season sees the brand return to Moda with an enhanced offer for buyers including free luxury packaging. EBERJEY continues with its focus on silhouettes that flatter with its latest collection of boy shorts, thongs, bralets and camis, as well as the traditional bra. TALLULAH LOVE presents a collection inspired by the British countryside in summertime, unveiling a bouquet of blues with pops of sage and golden green in the brand’s signature layers of lace and satin. MAISON CLOSE presents a sophisticated yet daring collection within Moda Boutique, revealing a luxurious collection crafted from satin and lace in a range of enticing silhouettes. SCANTILLY launches this season as the more daring little sister to larger cup-size label Curvy Kate. The collection focuses on sinful opulence, targeting unapologetic women who like to break the rules. NAOMI & NICOLE lends a shimmering finish to its diverse range of shapewear, proving that function isn’t always at the expense of style.

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WACOAL STAND C3 0 PASSIONATA STAND C41 CHANTELLE STAND C41 EBERJEY STAND B10 TALLULAH LOVE STAND C19 MAISON CLOSE STAND D50 SCANTILLY STAND B3 0 NEW LAUNCH NAOMI & NICOLE STAND B14

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Bags | Footwear | Leathergoods Travelware | Fashion Accessories

7 - 9 OCT 2015

HONG KONG fashionaccess.aplf.com

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Moda Swimwear PANACHE is inspired by the splendour of nature this season, taking influence from the rainforest, sea and sky to present a selection of abstract prints in bold and flattering silhouettes. SEAFOLLY is one of Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most significant exports, and this season sees the brand unveil a contemporary new range of swimwear styles at Moda. MOONTIDE designs around the ethos that fit is paramount to ensure a woman feels confident in her swimwear. This season sees a new range of styles designed to that end with the added benefit of new fabrics and colours. LINGADORE presents a new focus on bright shades for swimwear this season, a division that has grown substantially since it was introduced in 2006. Each item is available with co-ordinating cover-ups for a range of seamless merchandising opportunities. SOUTH BEACH is now in its fourth summer season and delivers a fashion-forward collection of swimwear defined by vibrant colours and on-trend prints.

04 01/ 02/ 03/ 04/ 05/

PANACHE STAND C21 SEAFOLLY STAND C50 MOONTIDE STAND C9 LINGADORE STAND C17 SOUTH BEACH STAND C11

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In their words Ahead of Moda Lingerie & Swimwear’s s/s 16 edition, WWB catches up with some of the sector’s key buyers to find out why the show is such an essential date on their calendar.

My favourite aspect of Moda Lingerie & Swimwear is that I can see pretty much everything under one roof. Nothing beats seeing merchandise face-to-face – previous experience of buying from line sheets has proven that it can be disastrous. I also use the show to discover new trends, styles and companies; I’m looking to pick up an additional brand or two this season, as well as buying into specifics. I do think that having one national trade show makes it easier for buyers to see what is available.

“I mainly buy womenswear at Moda, but the lingerie section is really useful for buying into complementary collections of shapewear from labels such as Naomi & Nicole and Miraclesuit. I always like to know what is out there for the new season, and I enjoy the catwalk shows and the presentations – they are a great inspiration for the following seasons, and I always take new ideas away with me.” DEBORAH MCDERMOTT, director, Velvet Exclusive Ladieswear, Ramsbottom, Lancashire

NANCY NELSON, owner, Sobriquet, Eastbourne, East Sussex

“I DO AROUND A THIRD OF MY BUYING AT TRADE EXHIBITIONS, AND THIS

“This season I am looking to buy interesting and colourful collections across the sectors, because lingerie, nightwear and swimwear are key to our success as a department store. Trade exhibitions are so important for networking, meeting key management and looking at all the product together; colours and styling can look very different to brochures. Having models available to check fit is also very helpful. My visit gives me assurance that I have had a good assessment of the season before I commit valuable budget to certain brands, and it’s also a great opportunity to meet and catch up with friends and colleagues to exchange ideas over a coffee.” DENISE GREEN, buyer, Jarrold department store, Norwich, Norfolk

SEASON I WILL BE LOOKING TO BUY INTO SHAPEWEAR AND GREAT FITTING LINGERIE, AS I attend Moda Lingerie & Swimwear when I need an overall look at what is on offer. I love having access to the VIP room – I can sit and chat about collections with other lingerie buyers and swap tips and ideas. It’s great being able to talk business with like-minded people. NICOLA ADAMS, owner, Tallulah Lingerie, Islington, London N1

“In Ireland we rarely get to see items on anything other than a coat-hanger, so attending Moda Lingerie & Swimwear, where we can see collections on a real model, makes a real difference. Having a national show that brings the lingerie industry together means there is a chance to meet other buyers and store owners and swap ideas about brands and collections. Overall, I think Moda Lingerie & Swimwear is a very well-run event and I enjoy going; it’s an essential date on the calendar when we feel like we need some new brands in-store.” SUSAN ALSYBURY, director, Marie Sue Lingerie in Carlow and Newbridge, Ireland

WELL AS KEEPING UP-TO-DATE IN GENERAL WITH ALL THAT’S ON OFFER. ATTENDING MODA IS A GREAT WAY OF SEEING EVERYTHING ON SHOW AND BEING ABLE TO COMPARE SUPPLIERS AT A VERY ACCESSIBLE LOCATION.” SHARON BELL, manager, Hidden Agenda, Southampton, Hampshire

“Attending Moda Lingerie & Swimwear represents a better use of time for me as a buyer rather than seeing brands and agents individually. I do all of my swimwear buying and around half of my lingerie buying at trade exhibitions, so I travel from Edinburgh and spend two days at Moda. Having a national show for the intimate apparel sector allows us to meet up with old friends, as well as see items on actual models, and it’s a great way of comparing brands within a varied space of inspiration.” SARAH ROLLINS, owner, Bravado, Edinburgh uuu

TINA TAYLOR

Showing at

PURE (Stand H98) 2nd - 4th Aug 2015 and MODA (Stand J2) 9th - 11th Aug 2015

01460 65803 info@tinataylor.co.uk

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What’s on at Moda Moda provides a comprehensive programme of expert advice, catwalk inspiration and social events. Don’t miss out on everything the show has to offer this s/s 16.

BE2B Visit the BE2B hub for business inspiration and an insight into the technologies that keep the retail sector ticking. The pop-up area has relocated to a more high-profile location adjacent to the footwear catwalk, and brings together a range of retail services and product providers in one, easy-to-access area. Exhibitors include multichannel software provider Touchretail, stock management and Epos expert Top to Toe, 360-degree product photography specialist Orbitvu, concessions portal for department stores Hallett Retail and bespoke digital marketing expert Pea Soup Digital.

LET LYCRA MOVE YOU Meet the INVISTA LYCRA® team on their plaza in Moda Lingerie & Swimwear, Hall 17. Find out about the brand’s latest developments and, while in the area, visit labels offering the latest in loungewear, nightwear and lingerie design. LYCRA® is a trademark of INVISTA

FAB The Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) is the voice of independent fashion retailers. The UKwide network of FAB members benefit from first class support, savings on essential business services, unlimited free legal advice and specialist representation, helping them to trade more effectively, profitably and sustainably for the future. Passionate about championing independent retailers in a highly competitive market, FAB helps its members stay one step ahead. FAB’s friendly and knowledgeable team will be available on stand MG24 to discuss ways to save you time and money.

CATWALK THEATRE HALL 17 Sunday 9 August 10.00 – 10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.15 – 11.45 Fashion catwalk 12.30 – 13.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 13.45 – 14.15 Fashion catwalk 15.00 – 15.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 16.15 – 16.45 Fashion catwalk 18.00 – 18.30 Evening & Occasionwear catwalk & drinks Monday 10 August 10.00 – 10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.30 – 12.00 Fashion catwalk 12.45 – 13.15 Evening & Occasionwear catwalk 14.00 – 14.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 16.00 – 16.30 Fashion catwalk 17.00 – 17.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk Tuesday 11 August 10.00 – 10.30 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk 11.00 – 11.30 Fashion catwalk 12.15 – 12.45 Footwear & Accessories 14.30 – 15.00 Lingerie & Swimwear catwalk CATWALK THEATRE HALL 20 Sunday 9 August 10.00 – 10.30 Gent catwalk 11.15 – 11.45 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 12.30 – 13.00 Gent catwalk 13.45 – 14.15 Footwear & Accessories catwalk 15.00 – 15.30 Gent catwalk 16.15 – 16.45 Footwear & Accessories 18.00 – 18.30 Gent catwalk & drinks Monday 10 August 10.00 – 10.30 Gent catwalk 11.30 – 12.00 Footwear & Accessories 12.45 – 13.15 Gent catwalk 14.00 – 14.30 Footwear & Accessories 16.00 – 16.30 Gent catwalk 17.00 – 17.30 Footwear & Accessories Tuesday 11 August 10.00 – 10.30 Gent catwalk 12.15 – 12.45 Footwear & Accessories 14.30 – 15.00 Gent catwalk

RUNWAY ASPIRATIONS Real designs are brought to life on the catwalk, elevating the best of s/s 16 to a real-time fashion showcase. Spot the trends, get merchandiseinspired and take home the best of the season to replicate in-store next spring.

RAISE A GLASS As the industry’s national event, Moda goes beyond the aisles to offer an unrivalled opportunity to network with like-minded professionals. From the complimentary drinks reception at the end of day one to socialising after-hours, the show is the essential meeting place for all aspects of the trade.

SEMINAR PROGRAMME Sunday 9 August 10.30 – 11.00 Jonny Ross: social media, Hall 17 10.30 – 11.00 Marie Davies, Amazon - How to make the most of selling online: Key styling tips for different product types, Hall 20 11.45 – 12.15 Hallett Retail: photography, Hall 20 11.45 – 12.15 Trendstop: trend prediction, Hall 17 13.00 – 13.30 Jonny Ross: digital marketing, Hall 20 14.15 – 14.45 Elizabeth Hitchins: getting started online, Hall 20 14.15 – 14.45 Jim Jordan: doubling profits, Hall 17 15.30 – 16.00 Elizabeth Hitchins: multi-channel strategies, Hall 17 17.00 – 17.30 Jon Tromans: blogging, Hall 17 Monday 10 August 10.30 – 11.00 The Fashion Network: fashion funding, Hall 20 11.00 – 11.30 Trendstop: trend prediction, Hall 17 11.00 – 11.30 Top to Toe: stock management, Hall 20 12.00 – 12.30 Jeanette Cheetham: visual merchandising, Hall 17 13.15 – 13.45 Nathan Rous: PR on a budget, Hall 20 13.15 – 13.45 Metail: sizing & fitting, Hall 17 14.30 – 15.00 The Fashion Network: managing cash flow, Hall 17 14.30 – 15.00 Stefan Maurel: menswear trends, Hall 20 15.15 – 15.45 Nathan Rous: PR that works, Hall 17 Tuesday 11 August 10.30 – 11.00 Jon Tromans: social media, Hall 17 11.00 – 11.30 Top to toe: stock management, Hall 20 11.30 – 12.00 Laura Bailey: getting online results, Hall 20 13.00 – 13.30 Jon Tromans: online descriptions, Hall 17

WWW.LEBEK.DE SHOWING AT MODA STAND H11

Subtle nuances Chic, understated styling and a luxe feel sum up the looks in contemporary womenswear for s/s 16.

Dress ÂŁ52 Axara 020 3432 6385 Necklace (just seen) stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Credits Photographs: Chris Harvey www.iamharvey.co.uk / Stylist: Victoria Jackson Make-up artist: Lauren Rippin www.laurensally.co.uk / Model: Ella McNeil www.nemesisagency.co.uk Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

Opposite page: Blue jacket £53 James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 Showing at Moda Stand I51 Shirt £17 Silvian Heach 020 3432 6385 Jeans £25 Silvian Heach 020 3432 6385 This page: White top £40.35 Monari 020 7636 4207 Shorts £32 Axara 020 3432 6385 Shoes price on request Lisa Kay 01923 800081 Showing at Moda Stand T10 Bag stylist’s own

Jacket ÂŁ45 James Lakeland 020 7636 7130 Showing at Moda Stand I51 Trousers price on request Marc Cain 020 7436 0705 Vest (just seen) price on request Marc Cain 020 7436 0705

Opposite page: Shirt price on request Elvine 020 7723 3211 This page: Coat price on request Marc Cain 020 7436 0705 Dress £57 IKKS 020 3432 6385 Boots £48 J Shoes 01858 468123

Jacket £38 MKT 020 7349 9668 Top £49 Latte 0141 204 0699 Showing at Moda Stand I60 Shorts £23 MKT 020 7349 9668

Denim shirt dress with tie waist ÂŁ27.50 Emreco 0845 345 1914 Showing at Moda Stand I21

Jacket price on request Elvine 020 7723 3211 Top ÂŁ15 Tara Vao 0800 612 9009 Showing at Moda Stand K10 Trousers ÂŁ22 Marble 0141 882 6743 Showing at Moda Stand J10

White dress ÂŁ82.09 Marciano 0041 918095000 Pink blouson jacket ÂŁ34.35 Steilmann 020 7291 0522

Opposite page: Jacket £41.50 Parka London 020 7424 6889 Grey acid wash jumper £24 Pomodoro 020 8961 4000 Showing at Moda Stand I10 Jogging bottoms £22.45 Steilmann 020 7291 0522 This page: Trousers £23 Marble 0141 882 6743 Showing at Moda Stand J10 Blouse £24 MKT 020 7349 9668 Cardigan £30.50 Monari 020 7636 4207

www.grizas.com London Showroom by appt only: 5th August - 21st August â&#x20AC;˘ Jeremy Cates: 07770 934 363 E: jeremy@cates.co.uk â&#x20AC;˘ Anthony Packer: 07525 059 100 E: anthonypacker@me.com

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Scoop London 20-22 September, Saatchi Gallery Scoop London is making its debut next month, bringing even more exclusive labels and fresh names to the capital.

Following the resounding success of boutique fashion trade show Scoop, a new addition to the seasonal show calendar is making its debut next month. Scoop London coincides with London Fashion Week, and is held at Scoop’s regular home, the Saatchi Gallery. The timetable has been devised to cater for overseas labels and their production agendas, as well as highend collections, emerging British designers and first and second lines, with the majority of brands showing exclusively at the September dateline, offering newness and an unmissable selection of contemporary designers from the UK and across the globe. “Due to the popularity of Scoop, we wanted to showcase UK and international designers whose collections were not ready or available in August,” says Scoop’s founder and managing director, Karen Radley. “The fact that Scoop London will be taking place during London Fashion Week will also make it easier for international buyers to visit the show, as many of the key stores from Europe, the US and further afield only make it to London once each season.” All accredited buyers registered for Scoop London will be approved for entry to the designer showrooms of London Fashion Week. Buyers can simply show their Scoop badge and a business card at the entrance desk to be fast-tracked into the showrooms. Likewise, all London Fashion Week’s accredited buyers can automatically gain fast-track entry into the brand new Scoop London show. Free transport between the two venues will be provided, with a regular shuttle service running between London Fashion Week’s new location in Soho, and the Saatchi Gallery on the King’s Road. Just like its sister show, Scoop London delivers an eclectic and carefully curated selection of labels. “There is very little crossover between the August and the September shows,” says

Radley, who personally selects each brand to the show. “Both editions stand alone, and buyers can expect a very different line-up of collections. The focus is on freshness and newness. Scoop London is the perfect platform to showcase some of the most exciting international collections, many of which are new to the UK.” Expect to find exclusive womenswear ranges such as Three Floor, Piccione Piccione, James Perse, Masscob, Vuedu, Bella Freud, Niamh O’Neill, Diego Binetti, Ivan Grundahl, Christophe Sauvat and Patrizia Pepe among the show’s distinguished list of exhibitors. Accessories are also heavily represented, with the likes of Delage 1905, Forms Studio, Mathilde Danglade, Sweety Jane, Maison Passage, Amet et Ladoue and The Season Hat among the key exhibitors to the show, covering everything from handbags through jewellery to luxurious scarves. A number of footwear labels are further complementing Scoop London’s diverse line-up. One of the most recognisable being US brand Kate Spade, which will be bringing its s/s 16 collection to the Saatchi Gallery. Acclaimed label Alice & Olivia is also presenting its new footwear collection at the show, while The Jacksons and Chillerton complement the highprofile list. Furthermore, resortwear is a strong product category, with labels such as Ama Sandali, Whykini, Miguelina, Ancient Greek Sandals, Mara Hoffman, Lily & Lionel and Finlay & Co offering some of the best ranges across swimwear, kaftans, cover-ups, sandals, sunglasses and more. Lifestyle products complement the show’s edit, with brands such as perfumery from Bruno Acampora and Connock London or luxurious handmade cushions from Alexandra D Foster among the diversity of ranges available. Turn overleaf for an overview of what the show has to offer.

For pre-registration and a full, up-to-date list of designers showing at Scoop London, visit www.scoop-international.com and www.wwb-online.co.uk.

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FINLAY & CO British eyewear brand Finlay & Co is best known for its iconic handmade wooden sunglasses. This season, however, the label is introducing a non-wooden range featuring three distinctive new styles made from finest Italian Mazzucchelli Acetat. Each shape is available in champagne, opaline blue and tortoise acetates.

10 BAGS LAPALOMBELLA Bags at Italian brand 10 Bags Lapalombella are characterised by the use of innovative materials flanked by leather or technical fabrics such as shading and black rubberised fabrics. The design is clear and well defined, thanks to the geometric cuts reminiscent of Japanese origami.

10 BAGS LAPALOMBELLA

FINLAY & CO

THREE FLOOR

THREE FLOOR The Three Floor aesthetic is bold, vibrant and edgy, contrasting luxe fabrics with statement colours and a playful approach to texture and detail. Dresses are key in the collection, with a new focus on longer lengths and clean, effortless shapes.

TRANSIT

TRANSIT Design and craftsmanship are the hallmarks of Transit, which is sold in some of the most high-profile stores across the globe, with currently 35 export markets. The brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature is classic simplicity with a luxe finish.

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DELAGE With roots as saddler upholsterer for automobiles a century ago, Delage offers more than handbags; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leather craft, using the finest leather and most sophisticated finishes, all made in compliance with the expertise of master saddlers, providing exceptional durability.

MATHILDE DANGLADE French designer Mathilde Danglade adds a hint of Asianinspired refinement to her pieces. She incorporates coloured stones, rough diamonds, old coins or pebbles found on beaches into vermeil, silver and gold pendants, rings and bracelets. Pure and contemporary designs sum up the range.

MATHILDE DANGLADE

DELAGE

DIEGO BINETTI

DIEGO BINETTI The Diego Binetti line is a high-fashion collection aimed at the jet-setting woman of the world. The designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vision is unique and ever changing, with threads of the past and present visible throughout each collection.

SPAZIOIF

SPAZIOIF Italian handbag label Spazioif specialises in linear templates and strict lines that highlight genuine leather. The rigid handles and the functional cuts of the leather hide a new concept of bag, always emphasising comfort and convenience.

PICCIONE PICCIONE A high-impact collection with ultra-feminine designs, Italian brand Piccione Piccione combines impeccable craftsmanship and vibrant prints with beautiful, luxurious fabrics and vibrant colours aimed at confident women with their own sense of style.

NIAMH O’NEILL A rising star in her native, Irish designer Niamh O’Neill’s collection combines an understated elegance, clean lines and contemporary cuts with luxurious fabrics. A deceptive simplicity characterises the designs, relying on precision cutting and innovative details.

GANOR DOMINIC Ganor Dominic’s debut s/s 16 range, Marble, takes its inspiration from Ancient Greek architecture and sculpture. The designs feature various 3D elements, natural marble textures and prints featuring classical art pieces. The shapes are elegant and include both high heels and flat styles.

GANOR DOMINIC

NIAMH O’NEILL

ABIGAIL

ABIGAIL Abigail’s shoes and accessories are created to offer elegance, style and comfort, following an ethical and eco-friendly approach. The designs are fun and vibrant while elegant and comfortable; high-end shoes that take the wearer from day to night, from office to cocktails.

PICCIONE PICCIONE

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Scoop London The designers WWB gets to know the designers behind some of the most creative accessory and footwear labels showing at Scoop London next month. KARINA OIKONOMIDOU KARINA IK

Your label has a distinctive signature style. How would you describe it? It’s very minimal, strong and bold. The influence of geometry can be traced in the designs, especially the details. The forms and shapes of the heels, the platforms and the silhouette itself provide sensuality and sophistication. September will see the highly anticipated launch of Scoop London. What is it about Scoop London that made you decide to debut your collection at the show? Scoop London is a new, exciting opportunity to present our second collection for s/s 16, as it is directed to a much more international premium market. Of course, the amazing location – Saatchi Gallery – is a destination where our target customer is visiting; it’s a creative location not just commercial, and the selection process makes the participation at the show really special. That is why being a part of Scoop London is very important for Karina IK, so that we, as a recently launched niche brand, can make a statement. What is your favourite piece from your upcoming s/s 16 line? For me, it is difficult to say which piece is my favourite as there is something so special in each. If I had to choose, I’d say the Sam sandals. They are very eye-catching, even though the clear minimalistic edge is still maintained. What influences you as a designer? Our lives influence and inspire me. The way we are living and progressing inspire me to go back to the roots and find the authenticity of our existence. I find inspiration mainly in geometry. In translation from Greek, geometry means measurement of land, and I see it as one of the anchors for shoemaking, designing, wearing and living. We all walk every day and take our own paths; it is important to wear comfortable footwear that will give us confidence and power in making good life decisions. The Fatto A Mano factor (handmade) and the top-quality leathers and reptile

skins are the real value – the authenticity of the product. There isn’t a more luxurious product that is not made by hand and by the care of expert craftsmen that have been doing this work generation after generation. I want to create products that people who like and value exclusivity will use in their everyday life. I call it “urban luxury”, meaning that if you like it do not be afraid to wear it on the streets, to meetings, work or parties – every day, anywhere. What is the inspiration behind your s/s 16 line? For this season’s range, OMS 16 (Opus Magnum Summer), the inspiration has been developed further from Opus Magnum Winter 16. Summer 2016 was also inspired by the sacred geometry, very much of ancient architecture especially Armenian, how architectural elements related to nature, and the co-existence of man-made and natural products. Still tracing elements of proportion, high attention to detail, and this time using more contrasting materials, textures, unexpected surfaces and finishes. What is your fashion background? I have a degree in footwear product design and development, so I guess I knew for a long time that I would be working in fashion. I always knew I liked the fashion industry – the whole process of supply chain, distribution and sales always interested me. But on my foundation degree I became obsessed with leathers. I found my passion in working with leathers and 3D. I made a decision that footwear is something so specific and can be really investigated. I realised that shoes are the main detail of an outfit and, if they are of great quality and look good, the rest comes second. What are your plans for the future? We have great plans. For at least the next five years, I will work on Karina IK to build a strong position in the niche market of luxury footwear and build good relationships with the customers, as Karina IK is about personal connection and communication. There are many areas in the market that can be developed, but one step at a time.

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ANASTASIA KOMAROVA FORMS STUDIO

ANNA KOMANIUS CHILLERTON

Your label has a distinctive signature style. How would you describe it? Architecture is reflected in my collection. Creating something that is not only useful but also comfortable is important to me.

Your label has a distinctive signature style. How would you describe it? Chillerton was born out of my own frustration of not being able to find comfortable heels that I could wear all day. The mid-heel shoes on the market were often a little boring in their design, so I decided to create a brand making practical shoes in premium leathers with a focus on beautiful shapes and interesting detailing.

September will see the highly anticipated launch of Scoop London. What is it about Scoop London that made you decide to debut your collection at the show? I think Scoop London will be a great opportunity to showcase my designs and also meet key people in the fashion industry. London is one of the biggest multicultural cities that links people from all over the world. It is important to have a connection with this city and build relationships with influential people in the industry. What is your favourite piece from your upcoming s/s 16 line? The transformer bag. It can be worn in several different ways. Its versatility means it can be worn during the day or for evening events. I personally love to use it as a belt bag while I’m riding my bicycle, dancing or simply shopping. It’s not only comfortable to wear, but it also looks great. What has been your greatest achievement as a fashion label? We’re still starting out as a fashion brand so it is early days. However, I feel our biggest achievement is having the passion, drive and determination to reach our goal and create a product that is comfortable without compromising on style. What influences you as a designer? Apart from architecture, land art sculptures, mountains and oceans influence me as a designer. They’re all so inspiring; I feel like time stops when I am close to them. What is the inspiration behind your s/s 16 collection? The inspiration behind my s/s 16 range was the wish to create a simple bag that is versatile, functional yet beautiful and stylish. We’ve designed different bag covers that can be switched around for difference occasions. What is your fashion background? I think even when I decided to be an architect, I always tried to link my projects to fashion. Architecture gives you opportunity to express your ideas. Fashion does exactly the same. What are your plans for the future? I would like to bring out more collections, and in particular move into women’s clothing.

September will see the highly anticipated launch of Scoop London. What is it about Scoop London that made you decide to debut your collection at the show? I have always enjoyed visiting Scoop because of its size and atmosphere. I think a lot has to do with the organisers getting the brand mix right in a beautiful setting. The second event will be a great addition to London Fashion Week. What is your favourite piece from your upcoming s/s 16 line? My favourite model is the Sandpiper. Based on a classic court heel, the shoe is lightweight with a flexible platform, which makes the 9cm heel super comfortable. It can be dressy or casual, depending how you choose to style it, making it a wardrobe essential. What has been your greatest achievement as a fashion label? Sticking to my vision. What influences you as a designer? I can find inspiration in almost anything if I look at it long enough. But most of my designs are based on a combination of gut instinct, seasonal moods and wearability. What is the inspiration behind your s/s 16 collection? This range is full of playful hints to the world of birds. I have never really been a bird watcher, but it is amazing how beautiful they can be, especially in their colours, patterns and movements. What is your fashion background? I studied tailoring in Stockholm and fashion design at Kent Institute of Art & Design. After my studies, I worked in various PR and marketing roles, and spent eight years at Cutler & Gross. I grew up in the 80s watching Dallas and had never seen such glamour before. I have sketch pads full of my drawings from that time so, yes, it was always in me to design my own brand. What are your plans for the future? To grow the label organically. My main focus is to stay innovative as a brand and keep developing great products that our customers want. I also see the label eventually introducing a men’s collection.

Pure Stand J114 Moda, NEC Stand G10

FRANK SAUL (FASHIONS) LTD. FRANK SAUL HOUSE, STEELE ROAD, PARK ROYAL, LONDON NW10 7AR TEL . + 44 (0) 208 965 1522 FAX. + 44 (0) 208 965 1518 E.MAIL. info@franksaul.com WEB. www.mascaracollection.com Copyright © 2013 - 2016 Frank Saul Fashions and/ or its suppliers. All rights reserved © Crown copyright 2012. All rights reserved

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The main event WWB takes a look at the key trends across evening and occasionwear for s/s 16, and uncovers a style explosion of playful silhouettes, eye-catching details and luxurious fabrics perfect for weddings, summer parties or the races.

Floral crush Whether big and bold or ditsy and scattered, florals dominate s/s 16 styles. Through the many vibrant designs, a subtle trend of delicate Japanese-inspired prints has also emerged. Either way, once again, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no greater way to say summer than with this statement print.

MON CHERI

ZEILA

GINA BACCONI

MON CHERI SHOWING AT MODA , STAND F10 CARTISE SHOWING AT MODA , STAND H30 CARMEN MELERO SHOWING AT MODA STAND E40 CARMEN MELERO

CARTISE

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RUBY RAY

MICHAELA LOUISA

Shades of blue No matter which shade on the spectrum, blue can be worn in a multitude of styles. This season, the versatile hue has emerged as the popular choice for special occasions. The colourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ever-lasting popularity is a testament to its position in the style stakes and its worth as a fashion favourite.

MASCARA

RONALD JOYCE

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MICHAELA LOUISA SHOWING AT MODA , STAND H40 MASCARA SHOWING AT MODA , STAND G10 RONALD JOYCE SHOWING AT MODA , STAND F29 JOHN CHARLES SHOWING AT MODA , STAND E10 VIVIEN SHERIFF SHOWING AT MODA , STAND F20 MORI LEE SHOWING AT MODA , STAND E21

GINA BACCONI

JOHN CHARLES

VIVIEN SHERIFF

CABOTINE

MORI LEE

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The short cut Short, girly designs are the ultimate way to make a feminine style statement this season. Structured options kick out at the waist for a flattering illusion and ladylike silhouette.

CRISTINA WU OCCASIONS

RUBY RAY

MICHAELA LOUISA

VEROMIA OCCASIONS

MICHAELA LOUISA SHOWING AT MODA , STAND H40 VEROMIA OCCASIONS SHOWING AT MODA , STAND F28 GEORGEDE SHOWING AT MODA , STAND H28

CARLA RUIZ

GEORGEDE

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Black and white This season, monochrome features on both classic and fashion-forward styles. Clean lines provide a sophisticated edge to the trend, while different fabrics work together to create a fun look for parties and proms.

MICHAELA LOUISA

GINA BACCONI

MICHAELA LOUISA SHOWING AT MODA , STAND H40 DONA CARLOTA SHOWING AT MODA , STAND K10 L’ATELIER SHOWING AT MODA , STAND G10 RONALD JOYCE SHOWING AT MODA , STAND F29

DONNA ROSI

RONALD JOYCE

DONA CARLOTA

L’ATELIER

w w w. m o r i l e e . c o . u k

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Step up The footwear brands, collection news and seasonal updates not to miss for s/s 16.

LACOSTE Lacoste’s s/s 16 collection focuses on providing its customer with classic and functional shoes with a contemporary signature brand look. Aside from its usual offering of bright colours, the range features pastels and monochrome palettes, and is available in premium leather, featuring soft linings, a moulded insole and extra padding. The comfort-focused range is designed for wearing on the tennis courts or while playing other sport. Comfort and style work together simultaneously to provide a quality shoe for the new season.

RAVEL The s/s 16 collection from Ravel experiments with different textures, which include embossed snake and croc prints. The range is versatile to cater for all needs and also features sporty flat casual pumps for when the summer heat hits, along with luxe, stiletto-heeled sandals featuring woven detailing and reptile print. Summer suede ankle boots, masculine-inspired lace-up flats and block-heeled sandals are provided with a refined update, as seen in the intricate latticework that is applied to styles across the collection.

REEF For s/s 16, Reef continues to build on its popular Swellular Technology platform with the expansion of its Rover Collection. The latest collection mixes signature heritage patterns with the brand’s Swellular Technology, which consists of a contoured foam deck midsole, designed for long-lasting support, and a high-density rubber outsole. For s/s 16, the brand’s outsole has been given a more effective traction profile with deeper grooves. The result is a product that combines function and fashion, aimed at surfers, festival goers, hikers and all-round adventurers.

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CAPRICE

PENELOPE CHILVERS

The comprehensive s/s 16 line from Caprice includes approximately 200 models, all promising to be lightweight, flexible and comfortable. Masculine lines and quality leather materials are used to create dynamic and exciting looks across the new collection. Meanwhile, asymmetric variants, new caps and extravagant details round off the visual effect of the line. In the sporty section, leather materials with elasticated bands are used to create a contemporary look. Soles are flexible and removable to be adapted to each individual wearer’s foot type.

Established in 2005, the Penelope Chilvers collections have grown to include iconic styles such as the brand’s Impossible Boot and the Incredible Boot. These popular carry-over boots will make up the brand’s s/s 16 collection, along with flamboyant styles such as the Dandy slipper. Enduring classics such as the brand’s range of Goodyear welted leather-soled boots and shoes will also continue. The Safari Boot, Jungle Boot and Carmen Boot (pictured) are also a favourite of the Penelope Chilvers collections, updated as always for the new season with lighter materials and textures.

RUBY SHOO For s/s 16, Ruby Shoo presents a collection consisting of new designs and updated classics. The key theme for the new season is vintage botanical, with print highlights including bright florals and soft tones fused with metallics. A capsule collection of special-occasion styles will also be launching, in jacquard fabrics with colours including pink, mint, rose gold and cream.

SPERRY Sperry’s classic boat silhouette model gets a fresh, feminine update for s/s 16, and the brand predicts it will become an iconic style in its own right. A wide range of fun and bright colours are available in this range, with different material mixes also on offer. Premium leather and canvas materials are featured heavily across the range. Overall, the brand offers a shoe with sleeker lines for an increased feminine appearance, a new updated toe shape for a better fit and added features such as Dri-lex moisture-wicking lining technology for improved breathability.

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PETER KAISER Peter Kaiser’s s/s 16 collection focuses on the heel, with playful graphic prints featuring strongly across the line. Inspired by Italy, styles in the new collection feature bold colours, bright shapes and elegant patterns. Classic prints such as the snakeskin variation get a seasonal update, with some styles mixing dots and florals. Various materials such as lace, mesh, suede and leather are combined to create playful use of texture. Summery styles are found in the brand’s range of sandals, sling backs and classic pumps – all available in different heel heights.

LOTUS

PAPUCEI

B4BALLERINAS

The Lotus s/s 16 collection focuses on the creation of contemporary style, aimed at the trend-led crowd. The collection offers a vast range in terms of available styles, with customers able to choose from styles to suit any occasion, from brightly-coloured strappy sandals suitable for hot days on the beach to glitzy shoes for a night out. Collection highlights include the playful use of colour, with the brand’s range of sandals featuring bright colour combinations and colourblocking patterns. From daytime essentials through to weekend wear options and coveted formal styles with coordinating handbags, the brand aims to cater for all.

Romanian brand Papucei introduces a s/s 16 collection that centres on colour. Featuring a core mix of bright and bold colours, which include blue, yellow and black, the brand also experiments with various cut-out styles. Certain styles from the collection introduce gold and brown to make an impact. Meanwhile, white and pink are used to emphasise the feminine side of the collection, and silver detailing provides the finishing touch.

The s/s 16 collection from B4Ballerinas presents its classic model, La Ballerina, in a variety of customisable colours. The ballerina style shoe is made in Italy, using a fusion of traditional Italian manufacturing knowledge and modern technology to provide the customer with an end product reflecting unique design and good quality. Customers can design and customise shoes online, choosing from different patterns and materials including suede, velvet, glitter and patent.

J SHOES J Shoes introduces five new lines for s/s 16 – Relaxed Casuals, the Sacchetto Collection, Everyday Casuals, the Sartorial Collection and the Master Collection. This core range of collection pieces features a contemporary take on classic silhouettes. Aiming at no-nonsense individuals who aren’t dictated by the latest trends, the new range incorporates versatile styles and innovative design, celebrating the ordinary, the quirky and the adventurous.

See us at Moda, 9th - 11th August, NEC Birmingham, Stand T3 Laceys Footwear, 263-265 Hackney Road, London, E2 8NA W: laceysfootwear.com M: sales@laceysfootwear.com T: 02077390398

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Be in Berlin Berlin shows Panorama, Premium and Seek got the buyers buzzing in July. Tom Bottomley went to see what was ripe for the UK market, from the established to the new and relaunched brands ready to take a second look at.

CIRCLE OF TRUST

KING LOUIE

OILILY

SMASHED LEMON

One of the best collections at Panorama from the Dutch brand that celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. Starting out with denim, Circle of Trust has developed into a full range with a real focus on washes and treatments, as well as damaged and repaired looks. Not very long established in the UK market, with sales handled by Love Brands UK, the label has real potential to grow with some independent boutiques. It also opened its first standalone concept store in Amsterdam last December. The appeal is wide, from younger to more sophisticated looks with plenty of pastel colours for s/s 16. There are great jog jeans, washed biker-style leather jackets, biker-influenced jumpsuits, printed tees and 70s hippy styling on tops and skirts.

A brand from Amsterdam that’s been around since 1981 and has not strayed from its vintage-look beginnings. Better known for in-season lines, King Louie has put the focus on pre-order for the last two years, which have seen tremendous growth. There are some fine examples of dresses and coats that lend from the 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s and 80s, but with modern twists and better-quality fabrics. There’s been plenty of this on the UK high street, of course, but this is a step above with real attention to the detail, although still a decent entry price point. The label currently has no presence in the UK market, but is looking for a UK agent to find the right independent boutiques.

Perhaps best known for its childrenswear in the UK, Oilily – another Dutch brand that stood out at Panorama – dates back to 1963. Womenswear was added in 1983, but this is very much a relaunch with a new designer in the driving seat. It’s more modern and sophisticated, with some fantastic handmade prints created in-house. The emphasis is on taking women through the journey from the clothes they loved as children, but putting them into more grown-up looks with a real emphasis on colour and fabric quality. The plan is to be much more selective with distribution this time round – quality over quantity – with higher-end boutiques sought after.

It may seem like an Amsterdam fest, but it’s purely coincidence that this is another brand that stems from The Netherlands’ coolest city. Now in its sixth year, Smashed Lemon has only sold in the UK in small quantities to date, but a new distributor Carol C Collections for s/s 16 looks set to change that. The label sells in around 20 other countries outside of its homeland, so it must be doing something right. More for the 30-plus sophisticated woman who likes a bit of colour and expressive prints – the strength is in the flattering dresses (including one with a stand-out parrot print) and floral print jackets, which are apparently proving a real hit. Prices are really keen, too, with a 3x mark-up the aim for retailers.

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KALA

ECOALF

NORTH SAILS

When in Berlin, find a Berlin-born brand, so they say, and Kala ticks all the boxes. Classy looks, feminine cuts, great colours and high-quality fabrics are key. For s/s 16, there are light lemon, sky blue, juicy green and hot coral tones, featuring silk, chiffon and subtle detailing with belts, bows and drawstrings. The Emmy “flower bomb” dress looks set to be a real s/s 16 sensation. New elegant silk jumpsuits, skirts and jacket combos also stand out, as do striped jersey dresses. Founded in 2007, with three standalone stores in Berlin, as well as around 40 wholesale accounts (small boutiques) in Germany, but nothing as yet in the UK (and looking for the right agent), the brand offers the perfect office to evening transitionwear.

Ecoalf, which showed both women’s and menswear at Seek, was born in Madrid in 2009 with the idea of creating a fashion brand that is truly sustainable, not just playing around with the idea for Brownie points. The goal from day one has been to create the first generation of recycled products with the same quality, design and technical properties as the best non-recycled products. There’s also now a flagship store and showroom in Madrid. In terms of jackets, including ultra-lightweight down in pastel shades, the summer parka with “Because there is no Planet B” printed on the back is a nice touch, and brand statement. Ecoalf is currently only available in Harrods and a few boutiques in the UK, so there’s plenty of opportunity for independents.

Showing at Premium, as befits a premium product, this is very much a relaunch of a US-founded brand based around, you guessed it, sailing (it actually started out making technical sails for boats and ships back in 1958). It’s now under new private-equity ownership, Oakley Capital Limited, led by Eric Bijlsma, former CEO of Scotch & Soda. Robert Polet, former CEO of the Gucci Group, is also an investor, so it’s definitely one to watch. The innovation the brand developed from making sails is being put into the clothing collections – both women’s and men’s. As they say, it’s all in the detail, and s/s 16 is the first season back with womenswear. Nautical-inspired shirts, trousers, jackets and coats with plenty of technical detailing are standard. But it’s also feminine, and wearable.

SMITH’S AMERICAN BY MICHELA GOLDSCHMIED Take one heritage American workwear brand, founded in Brooklyn in 1906, as well as the wife of “the godfather of denim” – Adriano Goldschmied – and, if you’re a buyer, your ears will surely prick up. It’s a capsule line, sitting alongside the menswear, carrying the signature of Michela Goldschmied, who’s put a woman’s touch into the denim and associated products. It’s all about the silhouette, and it’s a first for s/s 16, too. There are dungarees, of course – think the We Can Do It! women’s worker WWII poster and you’re getting the right idea. There are also a couple of brilliant lightweight fabric jumpsuits with zips aplenty.

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Retailer spotlight:

NEW CONCEPT FOR SHOREDITCH Showroom Shoreditch – a new concept store presenting emerging designers – opened last month in the heart of the London district. Allowing emerging or small brands and designers to use the space in a multitude of different and creative ways, the space functions as a store, pop-up, showroom and an optional PR service, and operates as an integrated photographic studio and a bookable event area. Brands stocked include Pocket London, Age of Reason, Baia Bags and Rosa Bloom.

INDEPENDENTS’ WEEK FEVER HITS SALISBURY Local indie retailers in Salisbury celebrated the area’s own Independents’ Week last month – which ran in conjunction with Independents’ Day on 4 July. Indie retailer Repertoire joined in the celebrations, treating its customers to special discounts on some of its biggest brands including Ted Baker and Barbour. Matt Sacco, manager of the store, says, “This was the first year we have been involved in Independents’ Week. Salisbury has a host of great independents and the week drew a whole host of people into the city centre.”

Retail Forum The latest in-store news from the industry

Web watch:

WWW. WOLFANDBADGER.COM

With a host of accolades under its belt, London retailer Wolf & Badger is well-known for its Mayfair and Notting Hill stores as well as its responsive website that’s also full of varied content. Founded in Notting Hill in 2009, the retailer has diversified to target its customer through social media, interactive content and the retailer’s own print magazine, Wolf & Badger, which includes content including brand profiles and news on the latest fashion trends. However, at its roots, the site is still a fully transactional business, which includes options to shop its womenswear, menswear, gifts and homeware sections. Customers can also opt to “shop the look” and share favourite posts via social media.

PAMELA SHIFFER

owner of Pamela Shiffer, Primrose Hill, London NW1 What is your current bestseller in-store? Our bestsellers at the moment are jumpsuits at £129, maxi dresses at £95 and slouch trousers at £79.95 from Quinze Heures. Also our plain, silk batwing tops are storming out at £89.95. Customers are looking for items that are easy to wear with high impact – which is why colour and print is so important. They are also looking for fabrics that don’t crease too easily and that feel cool to wear. Our silk batwing tops are perfect because they give cover to the tops of arms, but are light and flattering at the same time. How have you found trading over the last month? Trading has been a bit of a mixed bag, depending on the weather. However, I’m delighted with our sell-throughs this season. What have you done to drive traffic in-store? Twitter, Instagram and Facebook have been useful and, as a result, we have found new customers. We’ve also had orders from existing customers, especially clients from abroad buying following our social-media posts. The world is a much smaller place these days. What’s on your agenda for the coming month? Visiting shows such as Scoop, Pure, Ciff and Revolver, as well as Who’s Next in September. I will also be overseeing our autumn deliveries and looking forward to getting back onto the shop floor and catching up with our customers.

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Retail therapy: Share your retailing bugbears

AMBIANCE OF COLCHESTER TO CLOSE AFTER 30 YEARS FIVE MONTHS AFTER CELEBRATING ITS 30TH ANNIVERSARY, WOMENSWEAR BOUTIQUE AMBIANCE OF COLCHESTER HAS ANNOUNCED IT WILL CLOSE ITS DOORS LATER THIS YEAR. FOUNDER AND OWNER VICKI WHEELER (PICTURED WITH DAUGHTER MELISSA) WILL CEASE TRADING TO PURSUE FAMILY AND LEISURE ACTIVITIES. FOUNDED IN 1985, LAUNCHING WITH BRANDS SUCH AS LAURÈL, KARL LAGERFELD AND TOMASZ STARCZEWSKI, THE RETAILER HAS SINCE GAINED ICONIC STATUS, CARRYING A MIXTURE OF OCCASION AND CONTEMPORARY PIECES AIMED AT THE 40-PLUS MARKET. “RUNNING AMBIANCE HAS BEEN A PLEASURE AND A TRULY AMAZING EXPERIENCE,” SAYS WHEELER. “MANY OF OUR CUSTOMERS HAVE BECOME FRIENDS AND MANY FRIENDS HAVE BECOME CUSTOMERS. MY LOYAL STAFF HAVE BEEN THE BACKBONE OF THE BUSINESS, AND WE HAVE CREATED A MARVELLOUS AND CLOSE TEAM THAT BRINGS THE AMBIENCE TO AMBIANCE.”

AWARD SUCCESS FOR CHESTERFIELD BOUTIQUE Chesterfield indie boutique Blanc received the Fashion and Footwear Retailer of the Year accolade at last month’s Chesterfield Retail Awards, which recognises the best independent shops, high-street stores and market traders in the Derbyshire town. Anne-Marie White, owner of Blanc, says, “Our team is over the moon. We have been here for four years and the shop is going from strength to strength. We really appreciate the recognition.”

SALLY LONGDEN

owner of Stick & Ribbon, Nottingham “It’s mid July – I open my emails to find one from a brand saying that some forward-order stock is on its way to us. I check what’s going to arrive – eight wool scarves and eight polo-neck sweaters. It seems we are receiving stock for the upcoming seasons earlier and earlier. Before too long, we’ll be receiving all our summer stock in winter, and vice versa. Some labels are happy to delay deliveries to suit, but why are they offering it to us in the first place? It’s lovely to have new stock arriving to tempt our regulars and offer something other than Sale, but it would be great if the brands understood that winter stock won’t appeal when summer temperatures haven’t yet peaked. With our seasons getting later and stock arriving sooner, more indies will feel a need to move towards buying in-season rather than forward ordering.”

Q&A:

How will you be kicking off a/w 15?

ALEXANDRA BOARDMAN

CHLOE MCCAIG

CLAIRE WRIGHT

SUZANNE TEMPLE

Owner, Alexandra’s of Keswick, Cumbria

Owner, Ruban Rouge, Bridge of Allan, Stirling

Co-owner, Stripes, Worcester

Owner, Blue, Bath, Cheltenham

“We have a new brand – Braintree – coming to the store which will sit alongside our ethical brands. We’re also holding an a/w fashion show in the local parish church in early September – which will showcase new store stock.”

“I always invite my regular customers to an event celebrating the new season. I also hold a fashion show in September where we have goody bags and a chance to have a get-together to showcase what will be coming to the store.“

“We will continue to work with Scandinavian brands and introduce some collections that will be exclusive to Stripes. We will also offer numerous promotions in our in-store beauty salon to bring people through our doors and reward our loyal customer base.”

“A/w is more of a continuation on what we already do at Blue. We always include one new brand in-store. This year we are excited about a new Scandinavian label. We will be active on our social-media channels, too.”

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Essential e-commerce advice The expert view: Tuning into the right channel for you and your customers The retail industry is going through a period of rapid transformation, which is driven by technology innovation, empowered consumers and increased competition. Retailers are not only facing increasing competition from other brands, but they are also contending for market share across all of their multiple touch-points. However, retailers need to stop thinking about in-store vs online vs mobile, and instead focus on a strategy dedicated to meeting their overall business objectives, ie drive sales through an engaging customer experience. Online The website is the 24/7 online window to the store, and one of the first opportunities to engage with existing and potential customers. The homepage receives thousands of daily page views, and retailers are often giving everyone the same page experience and content, regardless of whether they are a first-time visitor, returning customer, high spender or deal-driven shopper. This needs to change if retailers are to stand out on the “always on” online high street. Similarly, emails are often seen as the modern-day “junk mail”, as customers are bombarded with information, promotions and content that doesn’t appeal to them. This is because brands do not have the right email personalisation strategies in place to ensure consumers receive tailored content that is personally relevant to them. It is about using personalisation and sending the right message to the right customer at the right time of the shopping journey. In-store Technology can further enhance the customer experience by empowering staff. Digital receipts provide all-size retailers with a digital view of their shoppers. Customers can better monitor their own purchases and are also no longer relying on paper receipts. However, for staff, digital receipts provide the business with an opportunity to analyse and better understand individual customer shopping habits, across in-store and online. They also provide retailers with an additional touch-point with customers after they have purchased, encouraging them to return with personalised product recommendations. Call centres Customers want brands to “know” them and understand their preferences. It can be frustrating for a customer when they contact the customer services team and there’s a gap between their previous online and in-store shopping experiences. By having a holistic view of the customer, taking into account previous online browsing sessions and in-store visits, call centre agents have the ability to cross-sell and up-sell strategic and relevant products. In order to roll out an effective and efficient multichannel strategy, retailers need to evaluate all existing touch points. It is only then that retailers will understand that it is more than just having several channels working in silos, but also about providing a seamless and engaging shopping experience for each individual customer, regardless of channel. Joey Moore is strategy director at personalisation provider Peerius. For further information visit www.peerius.com.

GRACE WOOD

Marketing and e-commerce manager, Accent Clothing. www.accentclothing.com When did you launch your transactional website? The Accent website has been running since 2006. We have always ran it as a transactional site. Are you selling the same stock online as in-store? Yes. It provides our customers with a way to access our stock both remotely and in person. We can target a much wider customer base this way. Is your e-commerce arm growing, and what is driving the growth? Our e-commerce arm is growing year-on-year, and is largely down to the loyal customer base that we’ve built up over the 30-plus years of trading in Leeds. This, coupled with all the outreach, PR and relationship building we do in the city and beyond with our brands has enabled us to reach a larger audience. The website and our social media channels also act as tools for raising awareness of our shop and the brands we hold in-store. What are your plans for the site, and how would you like it to develop? Our immediate plans with the website include moving into further international markets and strengthening our international offering. This way we can reach a larger target audience. The website and strong online presence in general is a good way to do it.

57%

LIKE FOR LIKE INCREASE IN M-COMMERCE SECTOR ON JUNE 2014 Source: IMRG

18%

ONLINE SALES GROWTH IN

JUNE (HIGHEST GROWTH RATE IN 2015) Source: IMRG

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The Last Word with... Tom Joule CEO of clothing brand Joules What’s your earliest childhood memory? A kiss behind the bike shed with Helen Marshall, aged 10. Which song sums you up? Bob the Builder’s Can we Fix it? (Yes we can). I don’t believe in sitting back and waiting for things to happen. What’s the naughtiest thing you’ve ever done? I don’t know, I’ve never stopped being naughty. What are the top three things on your bucket list? A front-row seat at a catwalk show for a luxury brand, the Rugby World Cup Final (where England win), and learning to sail. What’s your favourite tipple? I’ve just discovered different gins and tonic – so refreshing. There are great distilleries local to me that produce fantastic gin – Two Birds and Warner & Edwards. What could you cope better with, no internet or no mobile for the day? Definitely internet – having a conversation answers questions or works out a situation far quicker than email, plus I’d miss not being able to pick up the phone to my family and friends. Would you rather rewind life or pause it? Pause it. Everything that’s happened in the past has got me to where I am now. What makes you laugh? Good banter with friends. What’s your guilty pleasure? Dark chocolate – with ginger or orange or mint or chilli.

Name: Tom Joule Job title: Founder and CEO, Joules From: Market Harborough Lives: Market Harborough

What’s your secret talent? Skiing backwards. I can’t give away any more than that otherwise it won’t be a secret. What achievement are you most proud of? The people I work with, the brand we have created and our uniqueness. If you weren’t founder and CEO of Joules, what would you be doing? Distilling gin… and drinking it.

MODA â&#x20AC;&#x201C; K11 9-11 August 2015

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