WWB MAGAZINE DECEMBER ISSUE 251

WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk DECEMBER 2015/ ISSUE 251/ ÂŁ6.95

SHADES OF INDIGO AFRICAN AMBITION Why Moroccan manufacturing is back on the UK agenda TRUE BLUE Scandinavian denim powerhouse Cheap Monday in the spotlight DIARY DATE The key trade shows not to miss for a/w 16

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ECOMMERCE FOR SMES How to make the most of ecommerce

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EXHIBITION CALENDAR The key shows for a/w 16

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SCOOP WWB introduces three key brands from next month’s show

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PANORAMA Spotlight on the brands making their debut at the Berlin event

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PREMIUM Everything you need to know about the next edition

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FOREIGN SANDS WWB reports from Marrakesh’s Maroc in Mode

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EDITOR’S COMMENT

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NEWS

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BACKSTAGE

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RETAIL FORUM

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E-TAIL CLINIC Expert ecommerce advice

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With Stacey Wood, head of womenswear, Zone Two Agency

The other side of womenswear

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THE LAST WORD

TALKING POINT Your views on the issues shaping the industry

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INTERVIEW With Frank Lyman, founder, Frank Lyman

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STYLE FILE The latest directional product news

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MAKE AN ENTRANCE The best party accessories to get in-store now

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FASHION RADAR WWB’s brand to watch

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SNAPBACK IN TIME Why Cheap Monday’s latest denim innovation is set for global success

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DESIGNS ON DENIM WWB takes a look at the best body-contouring jeans around

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INDEPENDENT SPIRIT 35 years of retail success for Angela of Long Melford

FRONT COVER: MOS MOSH

SINCE 1957 General Enquiries 01392 876390 l Customer Service 0800 294 3373 JosephRibkoff.com

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Editor’s comment Isabella Griffiths

Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics & printing ImageData Group 01482 652323

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Last month’s much-anticipated and much-hyped discount extravaganza Black Friday came and went, followed by Cyber Monday a couple of days later. If anyone was expecting similar scenes of mayhem on the high street as in 2014, where shoppers literally caused a stampede and fisticuffs across stores up and down the country – well, this year was a very different story.

Shoppers voted with their feet, or not, in this case, and preferred to give their credit cards a bashing online, rather than physically fighting it out in stores. However, despite Black Friday falling somewhat flat on the high street, online it proved a massive draw. At the time of writing this, official sales figures were yet to be confirmed, however, first estimates by Experian and IMRG were predicting a rise in online sales to £1.07bn this year, up 32 per cent on the same big shopping day last year, meaning it was the first time that UK online retail sales exceeded the £1bn mark in a single day. Expectations for Cyber Monday were in a similar vein, expected to bring in £943m, up by 31 per cent on a year ago. Considering that overall spend over the whole four-day period across both online and in-store was expected to hit £3.49bn, online sales form a huge chunk of this figure.

I don’t think anyone can ignore the significant and still growing role of ecommerce among today’s consumer habits, therefore I, for one, am not really surprised by the figures. In fact, according to research group Springboard, footfall across the

UK for the weekend was down by 9.6 per cent on last year, despite most retailers spreading out their offers over the course of several days, rather than just Black Friday. Retail parks were the only shopping destinations to have bucked the trend, seeing a 4.9 per cent rise in footfall on 2014, which to a high degree was driven by online shoppers using the click & collect service.

I would be interested to hear how indies up and down the country fared over the discount weekend. Did you join in, or did you manage to stick to your guns? I know of quite a few indies who offered targeted promotions and measured discounts online, so it would be good to hear your thoughts on how this US import is affecting independent retail and what you make of it.

As the year draws to a close, our attentions turn to the all-important Christmas trading period, and the outlook so far is positive. Mintel expects total UK retail sales growth of 2.5 per cent, taking retail sales up to £42 billion. Of course, online will continue to play a huge part in this, and the winners will most likely be those who have a multi-channel strategy that reflects the shopping habits of the modern consumer. With that said, I am a firm believer that product is still the key factor in all of this, so if your merchandise is desirable, sales should follow.

On that note, I wish you all a lucrative few weeks ahead. Merry Christmas and see you in the New Year!

WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company

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RETAILERS NEED TO UP THEIR GAME TO STAND OUT Latest research by Mintel suggests that sales between 2015 and 2020 are expected to grow by 20 per cent, however, diversification and a strong identity are key for retailers.

Consumer spending on clothing rose 4 per cent in 2015 to £53.5 billion, as consumers have adopted a savvier approach to clothes shopping, latest figures from industry analyst Mintel revealed. In its report Clothing Retailing UK, published in October, the research firm reveals that while the clothing sector has performed strongly, the unseasonal weather has impacted retailers’ sales and slowed growth.

Widespread discounting across the clothing sector has continued this year, with many retailers introducing earlier summer sales. Mintel suggests that the high level of clothes on promotion throughout the year has created a discount mentality where consumers expect to buy clothes on sale or special offer.

Sales growth is therefore expected to be weaker in 2015 compared to 2014.

Pureplay and sports retailers, however, continue to be the winning retailers in the sector. Online-only stores are gaining share of the clothing market fast, and while they only account for 5.4 per cent of total clothing spend, it is the channel that has grown the most in the last year, increasing by nearly one percentage point in 2015 in a year-on-year comparison.

Pureplay accounts for around 27 per cent of all online sales of clothing, with Amazon, Asos and Boohoo recording impressive growth.

Sports goods, meanwhile, have gained share to account for over 10 per cent of the clothing market, driven by strong performances at Sports Direct and JD Sports, as well as sports

specialists such as Lululemon Athletica and Sweaty Betty. Sales have been driven by the ongoing fashion trend for sporty styles, with over half of consumers buying sports clothing for leisurewear rather than sport.

According to Mintel, the overall online clothing and accessories market is to reach ÂŁ10.7 billion, accounting for 20 per cent of total spending on the market. Fashion remains the most popular product category bought online, whether on a laptop / desktop computer, a smartphone or a tablet computer.

While multi-channel retailers account for the largest share with around 73 per cent of internet clothing and footwear sales, pureplayers are growing their share.

The report highlights that the main change in the channels used to buy clothes comes from the older age group, who are becoming more confident about buying clothes online.

Consumer research shows that 60 per cent of 55-64s are now buying clothes online, up by 6 per cent from 54 per cent last year. Mature women in particular are increasingly shopping online, with 69 per cent of females aged 45-64 and 55 per cent of females over 65 purchasing clothes online.

Mintel suggests that while clothing remains a highly resilient category, with sales expected to grow 20 per cent between 2015 to 2020, it is also a mature sector that is becoming increasingly overcrowded. As consumer expectations surrounding the shopping experience rise, retailers need to up their game and do more to stand out from the competition.

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NEWS IN BRIEF

SAMUEL DONG ENTERS UK MARKET

DEBUT FOR DIANE SYKES FASHION MARKETING

US label Samuel Dong is launching to the UK through fashion agency LS Agencies, which has showrooms in Leeds and London.

One of North America’s most successful labels, Samuel Dong has established over 2000 accounts across the US and has gone on to forge a global presence across Europe, the Far East and Australia. Its arrival into the UK heralds the next phase of its growth, as it continues to diversify into a full lifestyle concept. “The time is definitely right for Samuel Dong to expand into the UK,” says agent Lawrance Simmons, who represents the brand across the UK and Ireland. “The label has seen incredible growth since it launched in 1999 because the styles fill a distinct gap in the sector – the collection appeals directly to women who aspire to directional fashion while feeling alienated by fast, disposable designs.”

Samuel Dong will showcase its a/w 16 offer at Pure and Moda Woman in February.

Contemporary womenswear brands Marc Aurel and Turnover have joined the brand portfolio of new fashion agency Diane Sykes Fashion Marketing for a/w 16. Sykes, who launched her eponymous agency last month after a long career in the fashion industry, most recently as UK Sales Manager for ceased German brand Hauber, will be representing Turnover for the UK and Irish markets and Marc Aurel for the UK. German brand Marc Aurel is a fully coordinated collection with a focus on stand-out pieces and an edgy yet commercial feel, while Dutch label Turnover offers clean lines with an emphasis on highest quality and exclusive fabrics.

Marc Aurel will be shown at Scoop, while both collections will also be sold in the agency’s showroom at 10 Middleton Place, London W1.

For more information and showing details go to www.dianesykesfashion.com

UK SET TO SPEND £16.5BN ON CHRISTMAS According to new research from e-commerce partner Webloyalty, consumers’ festive budgets are getting bigger, with the UK planning to spend £16.5bn on Christmas shopping this year.

Despite retailers kick-starting their Christmas advertising campaigns in November, the research suggests that over a third of the population don’t actually start their Christmas shop until December, with the average consumer looking to spend a total of £442 this Christmas.

The majority of gift-givers will spend a total of £282.70 on presents, with 17.6 per cent of consumers planning to spend more on Christmas gifts this year.

More shoppers (56.3 per cent) will buy gifts for their partners than their parents (34 per cent), and more will buy gifts for friends (22.7 per cent) than for their wider family (20.1 per cent).

Findings also revealed that four out of 10 consumers plan to use their mobiles to search for festive purchases. The average person is expected to spend 10 hours shopping for Christmas food and gifts online, which is up from nine hours last year. This indicates that as well as more people shopping online, they are also spending far longer browsing due to the increased choice available.

RETAIL RECORD FOR JOULES Last month marked three new store openings for British lifestyle brand Joules: one in Dublin – the brand’s 100th shop – one in Meadowhall, Sheffield, and a larger location in Harrogate. The new shops are part of the brand’s strategic national retail growth, which encompasses market towns, metro sites, coastal and travel locations, and complements Joules’ ecommerce channel and wholesale presence.

DEMAND FOR BOXPARK CROYDON SOARS Boxpark Croydon, which is set to open in summer 2016, has agreed terms for 75 per cent of its retail space just four months after its formal launch in July.

Demand for the shopping centre, which is currently under construction, has been oversubscribed by 250 per cent.

Created with 80 shipping containers and an approximate 20,000 square foot event space with a capacity of 2,000 plus, Boxpark Croydon will be double the size of Boxpark Shoreditch, the original Boxpark development.

YOURS CLOTHING TO OPEN NEW FLAGSHIP STORE Plus-size brand Yours Clothing opened a new flagship store in Castlecourt, Belfast, last month. It’s the brand’s 20th store and the first opening in Northern Ireland, with more outlets to follow.

The store will house womenswear and Bad Rhino, the company’s in-house menswear range.

MARC CAIN OPENS LOGISTICS CENTRE Following a two-year construction period, Marc Cain’s new logistics centre, Cain City, at its headquarters in Bodelshausen, Germany, is now open and fully operational. The state-of-theart buildings house offices, technology, packaging, quality control and returns departments, dispatch processing, a shuttle warehouse and a hanging goods warehouse.

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NEWS IN BRIEF KATE SPADE TO OPEN LONDON STORE US lifestyle brand Kate Spade New York is to open a new store on 182 Regent Street, offering handbags, ready-towear, fashion accessories, small leather goods, tech accessories, jewellery, watches, shoes, legwear, eyewear, stationery and home decor.

NEW NAMES AND FORMAT STYLEFRUITS EXTENDS FOR MODA WOMAN UK REACH With less than three months to go, Moda Woman has confirmed a host of high-profile new names making their debut this season, including Rino & Pelle (pictured), Baleno, Samuel Dong, Olivier Philips, Angel Circle and Baronia. These will be joined by returning labels include Smashed Lemon, James Lakeland, Lauren Vidal, Christina Felix, Hell Bunny, Lily & Me and Eva Tralala.

Moda Woman will relocate within the NEC as part of a reorganisation of the wider exhibition.

New features will include a unisex border between Moda Gent and Moda Woman, and the launch of an Outdoor Lifestyle area. The show will also launch Moda Loves – showcasing directional and contemporary womenswear labels – and Boutique, a new platform within Moda Footwear for women’s contemporary shoe collections.

Moda Accessories will realign its contemporary collections, millinery and trend-led product groups with complementary collections in Moda White, Moda Noir and Moda Loves respectively.

Leading fashion recommendation platform Stylefruits continues to expand in the UK, with retailers such as Boohoo, Missguided, New Look, Very and George among the brands who have signed up. Available online and as an app, Stylefruits has more than 10 million visits worldwide each month and has around eight million Facebook fans. Central to the platform are genuine recommendations for users by users, creating a social shopping hub with targeted traffic and high conversion rates for each store.

Stylefuits has recently launched a new Stylecheck app feature, whereby users can upload photos of outfits or items and get instant feedback from a whole community. “Since the launch of the Stylecheck feature, user engagement and retention have increased significantly. Users open the app twice as often as before and use it twice as long; there have already been over 15 million votes on the photos uploaded so far,” says Matthias Ziegler, co-founder and chief product officer.

MCARTHURGLEN TO DOUBLE RETAIL SPACE BY 2019 McArthurGlen, which owns Cheshire Oaks and Ashford Designer Outlet in the UK, has announced it is looking to expand its global retail space to around 9,687,500 sq ft by 2019.

As Europe’s leading owner, developer and manager of designer outlets, McArthurGlen is looking to capitalise on its strong financial performance, which has seen its total centre turnover grow by almost 30 per cent in the last three years to around 3.5 billion Euros. Since the beginning of this year, McArthurGlen has driven double-digit growth in both footfall and customer spend across its centres and has grown tourism sales by over 40 per cent. The eight McArthurGlen sites that are expanding include Ashford in the UK, La Reggia in Naples, Noventa di Piave in Venice, Serravalle in Milan, Parndorf in Austria, Roermond in The Netherlands and the recently expanded Neumunster in Hamburg. Seven new sites are being planned in Ghent, Malaga, Normandie, Provence, Remscheid and two centres in Istanbul.

“We are well positioned to capitalise on the quickly evolving designer outlet market, and are focused on enhancing and expanding our existing estate as well as looking for new acquisitions and new joint ventures in locations that will allow us to capitalise on new opportunities,” says Gary Bond, managing director of development.

MASAI APPOINTS NEW UK HEAD Christian Lawaczek has taken up the helm of The Masai Clothing Company UK following the retirement of Tim Ormiston, who has been instrumental in building the brand in the UK and Ireland and retired last month.

Lawaczek will be responsible for the distribution and development of the Danish brand as Head of UK & Ireland.

The Masai Clothing Company is currently available through the Fenwick Group of department stores and highquality independent retailers.

HALLOWEEN DRIVES FOOTFALL INCREASE IN OCTOBER Halloween and the half-term holidays spelled good news for UK retailers as footfall leapt by 18.3 per cent in the last week of October. According to global retail and footfall consultancy Ipsos Retail Performance, which compiles the Retail Traffic Index (RTI), average weekly footfall for the month as a whole was up by 4.5 per cent compared to September, although this was 2 per cent lower against the same period last year.

SELFRIDGES ACQUIRES DEPARTMENT STORE ARNOTTS The Selfridges Group has acquired Irish department-store group Arnotts for an undisclosed sum. Selfridges plans to invest in Arnotts by “enhancing the shopping experience”, updating the store environment and introducing new premium brands to its portfolio.

The group purchased Arnotts from Fitzwilliam Finance Partners, which was set up in 2011 by Irish property developer Noel Smyth. Selfridges also owns Holt Renfrew in Canada, Brown Thomas in Ireland and Bijenkorf in The Netherlands.

W H E R E FAS H I O N CO M E S TO G E T H E R

2 1 - 2 3 Fe b r u a r y 2 0 1 6 NEC Birmingham To reserve a stand call +44 (0)1484 846069 Find out more and register for your ticket at moda-uk.co.uk

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NEWS IN BRIEF

MODE SHANGHAI DRIVES DEICHMANN HEAD OFFICE CHINESE FASHION SECTOR CEMENTS UK EXPANSION The second edition of Mode Shanghai, which ran concurrently with Shanghai Fashion Week last month, closed on a positive note, with around 400 designer brands having shown their creations within the city’s 6000 sq m venue of Found 158.

Mode Shanghai attracted a total of 5300 visitors across its three days, the majority of which were buyers, including reputable international buyers such as H.Loranzo and Opening Ceremony.

Mode Shanghai is billed as a key platform for the Chinese fashion markets and is dedicated to improving the business chain and expose young local talents to buyers from all over the world.

“Our purpose is to help designers show their collections not only on runways, but also in a professional trade show, so buyers will see details and make orders. Despite its good reputation, it’s only the second season of Mode Shanghai, and we still have room for key developments,” says Lv Xiaolei, vice secretary general of Shanghai Fashion Week Organizing Committee.

Europe’s biggest footwear retailer, Deichmann Shoes, has announced plans to move its UK head office to a new development in Market Harborough, Leicestershire. The development, called Compass Point, will complete in April 2016 and coincide with the opening of the brand’s 100th store in the UK. The brand launched to the UK 15 years ago, however, the last five years in particular have seen substantial growth, with over 50 per cent of the currently 96 stores having opened in this time frame alone.

Deichmann’s portfolio includes flagships in London’s Westfield Stratford and Westfield London, with plans to open a minimum of eight stores in 2016.

The brand’s new, 1,500 sq m head office will not only provide more room for staff as the brand continues to grow, but will also benefit from tailored space solutions including bespoke range rooms to house the thousands of sample shoes the brand’s buyers work with each season.

J.W. ANDERSON WINS MENSWEAR AND WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR J.W. Anderson scooped the prestigious Womenswear Designer of the Year as well as Menswear Designer of the Year prize at last month’s British Fashion Awards, which were held at London’s Coliseum and voted for by over 800 members of the fashion industry. Guests of the high-profile events included David and Victoria Beckham, Tinie Tempah, Kate Bosworth and Liv Tyler.

The Emerging Womenswear Designer accolade went to Thomas Tait, whilst Grace Wales Bonner picked up the Emerging Menswear Designer award. Other recipients included Jordan Askill, who took home Emerging Accessory Designer, Jourdan Dunn who was named Model of the Year, Burberry who received the award for Creative Campaign and Stella McCartney for Brand of the Year.

The outstanding achievement awards, meanwhile, went to designer Karl Lagerfeld for his unrivalled contribution to the fashion industry, while Mary Katrantzou took home the accolade for New Establishment Designer, which honours a British womenswear or menswear designer that is taking the global industry by storm. Mid-ceremony, supermodels took to the stage to showcase designs by Anya Hindmarch, Burberry, Christopher Kane, Erdem, Paul Smith, Sibling, Topshop Unique and Victoria Beckham.

FARFETCH LAUNCHES SAME DAY DELIVERY Boutique ecommerce platform Farfetch has launched a same-day delivery service, available in nine key cities worldwide, including London, New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Barcelona, Milan, Madrid, Paris and Rome.

Farfetch has both an online as well as an offline presence and operates a network of 300 boutiques, with 50 stores having signed up to the new service, including Feathers in London, Kirna Zabête in New York, Just One Eye in Los Angeles, The Webster in Miami, Jean Pierre Bua in Barcelona, Excelsior in Milan, Gallery + in Madrid, L’Eclaireur in Paris and Gente in Rome.

SUPERGROUP RECORDS STRONG TRADING SuperGroup, the company behind lifestyle label Superdry, has announced a group revenue increase of 22.4 per cent to £254.9m for the half year period ended 24 October, reflecting positive growth in existing retail and wholesale channels and a healthy new store pipeline. Strong sales, particularly within the company’s ecommerce division, delivered retail like-for-like growth of 15.5 per cent in the 13 week period to 24 October 2015, albeit against weak comparatives in the financial year 2015. This follows retail like-for-like sales growth of 20.3 per cent for the first 10 weeks of the year.

SANDQVIST APPOINTS NEW CEO Swedish accessory brand Sandqvist has appointed a new CEO, Caroline Andersson, following founder Anton Sandqvist’s decision to step down from his position. Andersson comes from Craft Sportswear, where she worked as Assortment Manager, and most recently as Commercial Manager. Sandqvist’s HQ is currently located in Stockholm, with 20 employees, three physical stores, an online store and further plans to launch international stores over the next ten years. Moving forward, Anton Sandqvist will devote time to collection design and helping to build the brand internationally.

TWO SCOOPS PER SEASON SCOOP 31 JANUARY - 2 FEBRUARY 2016

SCOOP LONDON 21 - 23 FEBRUARY 2016

SAATCHI GALLERY, LONDON REGISTER AT SCOOP-INTERNATIONAL.COM

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Dazzling Design Canadian brand Picadilly is known worldwide for its elegant signature and individual style that appeals to women of all ages. Now exclusively available in the UK through fashion agency Apt ‌ Collections, the brand is set to take over the market by storm.

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There are few womenswear manufacturing companies in Canada and even fewer that can boast decade-long success.

However, contemporary womenswear brand Picadilly is one of those success stories, and this year marks the 40th anniversary for the Toronto-based, family-run brand.

Following a new collaboration and successful launch into the UK and Irish markets for spring/summer 16 through fashion agency Apt…Collections, Picadilly prepares to raise its profile in the market further still.

The brand’s strength lies in its ability to blend classic, elegant silhouettes and unique pieces that are timeless, ageless and season-less.

It’s a sophisticated and constantly updated contemporary collection that can be worn at home, on the go, or dressed up – focusing on rich vivid colours, prints and textures, with a mix of fabrics and novelty treatments.

Picadilly targets a woman who feels age is just a number and isn’t defined by it. She is confident, knows who she is

and knows what she wants – she is beautiful!

Picadilly today represents a global brand designed for today’s independent, confident and active woman. Stocked in some of the best independent retailers and department stores across the world, Picadilly’s designers fundamentally understand the needs of their target audience and design with this in mind, creating appealing and wearable collections season after season.

Exclusively manufactured in Toronto, the collection boasts eight individual colour themes per season, plus a stock program which totals approximately 450 different styles. This offer is highlighted with Hot Picks short-order programs of best sellers throughout each season for re-orders.

With collaborative capsules designed by some of Canada’s dazzling talents in their own rights – the likes of David Dixon, Joeffer Caoc and Fransciska Veress – alongside Picadilly’s inhouse designer of 17 years, Xiu Luu, autumn/winter 16 looks to be the most exciting yet.

PICADILLY COVERS UK SIZES 8-24 WITH AN AVERAGE WHOLESALE PRICE OF £35 FOR SHOWING TIMES AND REPRESENTATION CONTACT: NIGEL@APTCOLLECTIONS.LTD.UK 020 7580 3202 W W W. P I C A D I L LY FA S H I O N S . C O M

https://facebook.com/PICADILLY https://instagram.com/picadillycanada https://twitter.com/picadillycanada

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Backstage

The events, campaigns and parties not to miss 01/ CHRISTMAS SHOPPING PARTY AT CARNABY Last month Carnaby pulled out all the stops, throwing one of the biggest Christmas parties in London to launch its famous Christmas installations. More than 120 shops, restaurants, bars and cafés across 13 streets united to create the ultimate Carnaby Christmas shopping party, which resulted in a 59 per cent footfall increase. DJs Scratch Perverts launched Christmas with Happy by Pharrell, and shoppers enjoyed the party atmosphere, glitter cannons and a light show which illuminated the skyline with giant glitterballs and stars.

02/ ANTONI & ALISON RELAUNCH DEPARTMENT STORE Design duo Antoni & Alison have reworked their iconic Clerkenwell shop front to create The Antoni & Alison Department Store. Based on the aesthetics of the London department stores of the past, albeit a mini version, this new emporium has been completed ready in time for Christmas.

The store hosts the quirky duo’s signature clothing and accessories, alongside a modern bespoke dress service and a carefully curated collection of past pieces, from vintage T-shirts, dresses and accessories to one-off pieces. A dedicated homeware and interiors section showcases their new range of soft sculpture cushions, signed A&A posters, china, ‘Have Fun’ aprons, souvenir tea towels and many other trinkets.

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03/ BOUX AVENUE CELEBRATES FLAGSHIP LAUNCH Entrepreneur Theo Paphitis, owner of Boux Avenue, hosted the official opening of the lingerie retailer’s new flagship store on Oxford Street last month. The new outlet is the most central London store for the brand and is set to be a key location in its portfolio. Posing with glamorous models on the night, he said: “I feel very proud that we are in a position to be able to bring Boux Avenue to one of the most prestigious High Streets in the world. Taking our place in the fashion capital on Oxford Street will amplify our position in the market, as well as further cement our status as the ultimate lingerie destination. It’s a real milestone, especially for such a young brand, but really highlights how far it has come in such a short period of time.”

04/ DOLLY LLOYD MAKES DEBUT Celebrities, socialites and fashionistas, including Made in Chelsea star Georgia ‘Toff ’ Toffolo and Capital FM’s Pandora Christie, were out in force last month when Teodosia Lloyd, wife of the leisure centre magnate David Lloyd (both pictured), showcased her eponymous collection at the launch of exclusive boutique, Dolly Lloyd London, which is situated on the sought-after Fulham Road. The Teodosia Lloyd range is stocked alongside the brands Love & Fashion and Monica Ricci, with the boutique the sole UK stockist of all the luxury designers.

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Talking Point

Your views on the issues shaping the industry The wonderful business of fashion

DIANE SYKES Owner, Diane Sykes Fashion Marketing We all know that the evolutionary world of fashion is like no other business. A brand’s fate can turn on a penny and seemingly popular labels can be hot one day and the next day not. Or more perplexing for me, world politics can dictate the demise of a beautiful heritage collection like Hauber. No one was more shocked when after 140 years of trading, this collection known for its quality and a complete stalwart of European

Transitional styles guard against unseasonal weather

KAREN DHIR is the buying controller for Browns York. Browns is a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

The weather forecasters are only now predicting that winter is about to arrive, but it is a great relief to report that Ladies’ Fashions have performed well ahead of plan and delivered an excellent sales increase on last year.

fashion ceased trading. As the sales manager for the UK and Ireland I was devastated.

My customers and friends in the industry were quick to point out that when one door closes another opens, so with their tremendous support and just six months later, I’m here having launched my own agency, and so so proud of my beautiful new collections. I am raring to go, but it wasn’t always easy and at times I actually questioned my sanity. When people commented that I was ‘brave’ for starting on my own, it made me a little nervous even though I had been doing this for over 30 years and deep down I felt that I had been building toward this my whole career.

The first two months were particularly nerveracking. What if after all these years in the business I couldn’t find a collection that I wanted to sell or even liked? My brief sounded easy: to look for collections that had a certain ‘Je ne sais quoi’ and yet were commercial. The price point had to be good and of course I wanted the backing of great marketing images. It was then that it occurred to me that this is what retailers do every season when you make the monumental decision to add a new label to your mix. You are the brave ones! And you have this decision to make every six months!

It was wonderful to walk the shows and I met some really helpful positive people, but when I came back from having visited four beautiful showcases including CIFF in Copenhagen and Paris, it was a sobering thought that I had not one label which I loved enough to put my name to.

Fortunately I am a great believer in serendipity so I tried not to over-think things and that, of course, is when it happened. Weirdly, as with most things in life, by word of mouth at a trade party (which I had inadvertently crashed!) and literally in the last week of the season. For weeks and weeks I’d been on tenterhooks and then everything came together beautifully and all in two days.

Diane Sykes Fashion Marketing was born and I was now officially an ‘agent’ with two magnificent labels to launch. Marc Aurel and Turnover are both really well known and equally well respected. I still cannot believe how lucky I am: my first season and landing such winning brands. I am still pinching myself, still reeling from my good fortune, the exhilaration and excitement carrying me through the 15-hour days. What a year 2015 has been… evolution indeed. I love this industry.

This is in large part thanks to the autumn transitional pieces, which have been perfect for adding layers to create new looks and allowing us all to get a little more wear out of our summer wardrobe. Wraps, ponchos, capes and slouchy knits have all been very well received during the unpredictable and unseasonal weather.

It’s great that so many brands are now offering versatile, transitional pieces, which act to sustain our sales and profitability. Our exclusive knitwear collection, Hepburn, has also performed well and delivered us a healthy margin. I am very much looking forward to developing this brand further to include other separates and accessories.

Our collection of seasonal statement pieces sold through very quickly; luxe knitwear and statement coats from companies such as Monari and Oui proved to be very popular. Indeed all our brands have had excellent sell through rates this season, with the real winners being Masai, White Stuff, Robell, Inwear and Lauren by Ralph Lauren. Having held back budget this season across the collections, I am pleased that Sale buys have materialised, which are great for promotional events and also for boosting the margin.

Business has undoubtedly become much tougher with all the challenges we face on the High Street. I believe that being more proactive, creative and embracing developments in social media is necessary to secure success in this difficult retail environment. As an independent store, it does help that we can react quickly to changes and launch new and exciting initiatives to compete favourably with the multiples. The development of exclusive labels, securing and presenting musthave brands in a vibrant and progressive environment and delivering first class customer service is our mission at Browns. In addition, our Reward Card is proving to be an invaluable marketing tool in engaging, inspiring and retaining our customers. Fifty per cent of our transactions come from Reward Card Customers, and on average are £20 higher than other transactions.

We recently held our Customer Shopping Event which was a huge success. There was such a great buzz in the store with customers enjoying fabulous discounts – a wonderful social occasion which kick-started Christmas for everyone. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

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Canadian brand Frank Lyman has been going from strength to strength and is one of the key players in mainstream womenswear. Isabella Griffiths talks to founder and namesake Frank Lyman about what makes the brand tick and his vision for the future.

Isabella Griffiths: Your label Frank Lyman is frequently among the bestsellers in independent shops up and down the country. To what do you attribute this success?

Frank Lyman: I think the key to this is that we try to be stylish, versatile and different. We try to make clothes that make our customers feel better and younger and just give them that feelgood wow-factor. Our fit is tremendous, we get complimented on that all the time, and we sell a lot of styles that are happening and are hot at retail level. A lot of it boils down to being very much in touch with our customers, what they want, and delivering on that. We spend a lot of time and effort listening to our customers and what sells and what doesn’t and that drives our collections.

IG: You started the label 15 years ago and have been selling in the UK for more than 10 years. How important is the market for your global exports?

FL: It is definitely one of our most successful, priority markets.

We have been represented by our agent Michael Black at Premier Fashions for over 10 years now, too, and it’s been a good partnership; the label continues to go from strength to strength every year. The British ladies have been fantastic; they have really embraced the label and seem to just get it. I have always had an affinity with the UK, ever since I stepped off an Air Canada plane many years ago and took a stroll down Oxford Street and shops like Selfridges, which I really admire.

I knew then that the UK would be a good market for us and that we just had to be here.

FRANK LYMAN FOUNDER, FRANK LYMAN

IG: How many stockists do you currently have in the UK, and are you planning to grow this further?

FL: We currently have just over 300 stockists in the UK, and I think with that we have most of the key accounts and key territories covered. We always want to grow, of course, but at this stage it’s more about quality and volume growth within our existing stockists than adding hundreds more retailers to our list. I don’t think stretching us to 600 or 700 accounts would be right for us; instead we want to work even closer with our existing partners and ensure that we perform the best we can at retail and that our sell-throughs are second to none.

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IG: You seem very committed to independents. Is wholesale your only distribution channel, or do you also have retail and e-commerce operations?

FL: We are absolutely, 100 per cent committed to wholesale and working with independents. They are the experts on the ground, they know their markets and customer base best – who are we to interfere with that? I don’t believe in opening our own stores; we don’t want to compete with our own stockists. The same goes for e-commerce. We have a website where we showcase our designs, but we don’t actually sell through it. A lot of our customers sell through their own websites, and we support them, as long as they respect our pricing structure.

I really believe in independents and in giving them the tools so they can make money; only that way will we make money, too. I wish more of my competitors had the same view.

I started out, many many years ago, as a sales agent and I was on the road across Canada for 48 weeks a year, in all weather conditions, and sold to independents. This really instilled in me an appreciation for the work they do and the place they have in retail, and I want to protect that.

IG: Your brand covers a vast product mix across daywear, evening and occasionwear. What are currently your most successful styles?

FL: Dresses have always been key in our collections, but right now we’re doing even better with our blouses, novelty tops and tunics. I believe this reflects general shopping habits of the consumer: they are less expensive and maybe also more versatile and ladies can mix and match separates. Our eveningwear styles have also been a great booster for us and the Lyman range, which is mainly occasionwear styles which we introduced around two years ago, has also taken off and performs great at retail. Our customers are so varied; we have ladies in their 30s through 50s to 70s, and they all wear our styles and wear them very differently, but they all have in common that they want to look good. Everyone looks and dresses younger these days and our collections try to flatter everyone. We have seven designers working under my vice-president of design and a long-standing associate, Johanne Baron, to ensure that we interpret key trends and looks for our customers in a wearable and appealing way.

IG: You have been in the clothing industry for over four decades. What have been the biggest changes you have witnessed?

FL: I’ll tell you what definitely hasn’t changed: people still get as excited about nice clothes as they did in the 70s. That will never change. The way we conduct business has of course changed; technology especially has transformed everything we do tremendously. Everything is faster, and you have to be as fast, too. For us as a company it has meant that we have to react much quicker to new trends or changing market conditions.

Thankfully we produce 98 per cent of our garments in Canada, so we have a lot of control not only over quality, but also how fast we can turn around our collections. Most of the time we can get stock out within 10 days, which is crucial for repeat orders or in-season drops.

Generally speaking, I think you have to be extremely professional all the time. There is no more room for mediocrity – you have to have the right people and the right product at the right time. And you have to be committed, work hard, and have a passion for what you do. I’m very hands-on in all aspects of the business, I’m here at 8am and I clock off at 6pm or later – you have to be.

IG: What does the future have in-store for Frank Lyman?

What is your vision for the brand?

FL: I want the brand to be represented in as many countries as possible and develop it to its full potential. We are making good progress on that front. Last year we moved into new 60 000sqft headquarters just outside of Montreal, which has also taken the business to the next level.

I’m lucky that three of my children are also involved in the business; my daughter looks after the production and sales side, while my two sons deal with business development, buying, marketing and credit rolls, so we all share a passion for the brand and want to see it thrive. My goal is that my customers ring me up and say: “Frank, your collection is selling like nothing else. We have had 100 per cent sell-through and I don’t need to put anything in the sale.” That’s like a million bucks to me. That’s the best feeling in the world. www.franklyman.com

22/ M O D A / P R O M O T I O N moda-uk.co.uk

THINK YOU KNOW

DIDRIKSONS 1913

Changes are coming this February as Moda evolves with a new format for the new season. Returning to Birmingham’s NEC on 21-23 February, Moda will feature new locations for each of its five sectors, and the creation of new unisex areas between Moda Woman and Moda Gent.

Moda Woman returns for autumn with its essential edit of daywear, directional fashion and occasionwear presented in a brand-new format for the new season. Reorganised to create an inspiring buying experience, the exhibition will feature a new unisex border between Gent and Woman, and a newly launched Outdoor Lifestyle area, presenting the best in outdoor and leisure apparel.

Accessories will also undergo an inspiring new makeover, with the creation of adjacencies between contemporary collections, trend-led styles and millinery with complementary collections within Moda White, Moda Woman and Moda Noir.

The reorganisation paves the way for a raft of new and returning labels, making for Moda’s most diverse line-up to date. Ness, Brodie Cashmere, Baronia, Rino & Pelle, House of Cheviot, Angel Circle, Adagio, Samuel Dong, Western Wind, Raspbry, Kate Cooper, Personal Choice, Naya, Didriksons 1913 and Brakeburn are just some of the names confirmed for February at the UK’s national event for trade fashion.

As the industry’s national show, Moda Woman is relied upon by professionals nationwide as the industry meeting hub. The event’s location within a purpose-built facility makes meeting easy, with VIP lounges and breakout zones designed to make catching up with like-minded professionals all part of the experience.

Enjoy the added dimension of new social features this season, as Moda once again coincides with the annual Footwear Industry Awards. Taking place at Birmingham’s National Conference Centre – formerly the Motorcycle Museum – on the Sunday night of the show, the event celebrates the achievements of those in the footwear trade.

Moda will also coincide with the newly launched Intimate Ball – a lavish, black-tie event taking place at brand new event space The Vox. Organised in aid of breast cancer awareness charity Coppafeel!, the new annual event will bring together those in the womenswear, lingerie and swimwear sectors in true industry style.

21-23 FEBRUARY 2016 NEC BIRMINGHAM EXHIBITOR LIST NOW LIVE ON NEW LOOK MODA WEBSITE DON’T MISS A THING THIS SEASON. REGISTER FOR YOUR FREE TICKET NOW AT MODA-UK.CO.UK

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MODA? Go beyond the line sheets to discover fashion as it was intended at the industry’s live event. Tomorrow’s styles are elevated into a real-time showcase as Moda’s inspiring catwalk shows return to the stage, while models are on hand to bring individual brands’ designs to life.

Moda’s ever-popular seminar programme will also make a welcome return this season, bringing the most relevant commercial strategy into the context of your business. Delivered by engaging speakers as part of an interactive forum, each seminar is designed to help retailers stay ahead of their game, no matter how small their set-up.

Experience Moda’s brand new dimension, as Resorts World opens its doors in time for the new autumn season. The integrated £150m leisure and entertainment resort houses one of the country’s only 24-hour casinos, alongside a chic spa-hotel, a cinema, bars and restaurants for the ultimate in post-show entertainment.

Visitors can enjoy pan-Asian influenced cuisine with lakeside views before relaxing at the resort’s New York-inspired sky bar – all without setting foot outside the grounds of the NEC. The Robata Bar & Grill, meanwhile, live streams 60 sports channels, allowing guests to control their viewing choice from their own private booths, ensuring that none of the sporting action is missed when live events coincide with Moda.

Elsewhere in the NEC, Moda maintains its partnerships with all of the NEC’s major hotel chains, offering visitors exclusive rates through Reservation Highway (www.reservation-highway.co.uk). It has never been so easy to drive, fly or travel by rail directly into the complex and to stay over in a relaxed and convenient setting – Moda Woman triumphs once again as the industry’s essential seasonal event.

BRAND NEW: OUTDOOR LIFESTYLE Outdoor Lifestyle launches this season, bringing together lifestyle fashion for outdoor pursuits with a strong focus on the heritage labels for both men and women that define the market.

With a line-up of established labels including Ness, Magee, Alan Paine, Brakeburn, Falke, Chrysalis, Noble Wilde, House of Cheviot, Dents, Harley of Scotland, Tilley Hats, Cap Frehel, Channel Jumper, Dock of the Bay and Henry Arroway, Outdoor Lifestyle adds a whole new dimension to Moda Woman, bringing the Great Outdoors to the sector’s most accessible, national exhibition.

Autumn Winter 2016

www.carolccollections.com

0800 612 9009

Appointments Now Available!

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Style File

The hottest brands not to miss this month q DENIM LOVE Evisu’s a/w range offers a selection of super raw denim, washed denim and distressed denim finishes with hand-painted and embroidered seagull back pockets. The jeans are made of selvedge denim with original shuttle looms.

Using specific thread thicknesses and colour, the brand gives a faithful nod to the way original workwear was constructed, endorsing a high level of authenticity and craftsmanship that goes into every pair of jeans.

u ALL WRAPPED UP Luxury outerwear brand Parajumpers has produced a number of capsule collections for a/w 15, created in collaboration with coveted international creatives.

The exclusive ranges include Kegen, a range of boundary-pushing technical features such as non-stitch, a type of quilting that is practically invisible from the outside, as well as Felted, featuring revised versions of the military parka in felted wool combined with polyester.

Functionality is at the core, with detachable wool linings among the highlights.

BY ROYAL APPROVAL Alice Bow was first catapulted onto the fashion map when it was revealed that the Duchess of Cambridge was a big fan of the UK brand’s comfortable, handcrafted insoles. Made from carefully selected Italian leathers in six vibrant shades, the insoles offer superior orthopaedic padding and suit both flats and heels. If they’re good enough for Kate...

t MODS VS ROCKERS Pepe’s a/w 16 pre collection is embracing a little bit of the 60s and a little bit of the 70s, with a definitive Mods vs Rockers vibe.

Cropped flared trousers, leather jackets, dungaree dresses, polo shirts and more great denim pieces are at the core of the range.

Add to that plenty of checks and the season is wrapped up with just the right amount of edge and attitude derived from the renowned British youth subcultures.

u FIRST CLASS TRAVEL Launched in 2013 by Carol Lovell, who struggled to find the perfect travel accessory during a globetrotting career in travel and executive recruitment, Stow is a collection of luxury travel accessories. Crafted from quality buttersoft leather, the range includes phone-charger cases, jewellery rolls, trinket boxes, travel document holders and more. Each piece is handmade in Spain, with bold colours and contrasting Italian goat’s suede linings.

UK Customer services Tel: 0113 224 0036 Email: info@LSAgencies.com Samuel Dong Showrooms: New York, Montreal, United Kingdom Visit us at: Pure London 14th-16th February Stand M125 Moda Birmingham 21st-23rd February Stand W58

UK agents: Jonathan Claire: Northern England, North Wales Sandra Bevan: South West, South Wales, Midlands, Cheshire Lawrance Simmons: UK Office, London, South East, Home Counties, Ireland Contact customer services for further details

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Make an entrance With the festive period in full swing, WWB selects the most show-stopping party accessories available for in-store delivery now.

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01/ PAPER DOLLS £19.60 0203 617 7668 • 02/ PEOPLE TREE £4 0207 042 8920 • 03/ GLAMOROUS £7.95 0161 819 2229 04/ ZANDRA RHODES £16 0203 006 3994 • 05/ LITTLE MISTRESS £24.80 0203 617 7668 06/ LUCKY EYES LONDON £25 07572 096770 • 07/ RUBY SHOO £19.60 01992 769612 • 08/ BETTY BARCLAY £19.95 029 2062 7736 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

PHIL DAY PARTNERSHIP LTD INVITES YOU TO THE PRESENTATION OF THE ALEMBIKA COLLECTION FOR AUTUMN / WINTER 2016

Showing at: Gilmoora House, 57-61 Mortimer Street, London W1W 8HS Monday 8th - Friday 26th February by appointment only We are also open all through Pure weekend from Saturday 13th - Tuesday 16th February Please contact Michelle for an appointment Phil Day Partnership Ltd, P.O.BOX 22, Oldham, OL3 6YW Tel: 0161 228 0573 / 07968-582690 Email: michelle@philday.net

Agent Ireland: Trevor Lavery Contact: Jo-Ann McShane JV Collections Tel: 07918690597 Email: jvcollections@btconnect.com Showing February - March in Belfast & Dublin Showrooms

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Fashion Radar

LIBERTINE LIBERTINE Danish brand Libertine Libertine manages to craft the perfect balance between simplicity and sophistication with clean, minimalist chic.

The brand was founded in 2009 by designers Rasmus Bak, Peter Munch Ovesen and Pernille Schwarz who have previously worked at Won Hundred and Acne Paper, and has turned heads ever since with its relaxed tailoring and effortless style. The brand’s design ethos centres around high quality, well-made goods, with each season producing totally fresh looks that aim to inspire. Sitting alongside brands such as APC, YMC, Folk, Acne, Margret Howell and Studio Nicholson, the brand caters to a broad age range, with an aesthetic that suits both mothers and daughters. For s/s 16 Libertine Libertine has produced refined silhouettes, drawing inspiration from 1970s Japan and California, as oversized square shapes are paired with linear overcoats to create a look that is cool and understated. The collection has been conceived to be transitional, crossing over from season to season with the brand’s staple, lightweight, breathable knits and light summer dresses key. Wholesale prices range from £24 to £133.

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Snapback in time Launching in the New Year, Cheap Monday brings its all-new ‘Snapback’ denim to the women’s jeans market, 10 years on from its super-successful ‘Skinny’ jeans introduction.

Tom Bottomley finds out more from the Scandinavian denim powerhouse.

Now 100% owned by H&M, forming one of three brands under a separate business called Fabric Scandinavien AB – which also houses the Monki and Weekday brands – the backbone of the Cheap Monday business is a far cry from the one founded by Örjan Andersson and Adam Friberg, out of a small secondhand clothes shop in a Stockholm suburb in 2000.

It was in 2004 that their own first ‘Tight’ jeans hit the market with the all-important standout skull logo on the label. The logo was inspired by the symbols and icons used during the Mexican Day of the Dead Festival (Dia de los Muertos) and was created by Andersson’s friends Björn Atldax and Karl Grandin. Good work there, for sure. So Cheap Monday was born, and the first 800 pairs of jeans literally flew out of the door in just a few weeks. H&M (Hennes & Mauritz AB) liked the cut of their jib, but more particularly the cut of their denim, so much so that in 2008 they bought a 60% share in Cheap Monday. Then in 2010 they acquired the lot and turned it into the desirable denim superpower that it is today.

Chief Operating Officer (CEO) Hakan Strom says: “I guess there was a perfect timing to launch skinny, unisex jeans at a good price approximately 10 years ago. Everything went really fast and we were the talk of the town. We have been pretty good in being consistent in what we do even though we have been growing our business. It´s a clear look with the skinny jeans as the core.”

Enter January 2016, and another phenomenon beckons in the launch of the all-new ‘Snapback’ denim. Cheap Monday’s head of marketing, Nadia Kokni, believes it will be another masterstroke in stamping the brand’s

authority on the denim market. She says: “‘Snapback’ is our new denim fabric concept that we are introducing on selected women’s fits for s/s 16. We really believe in this fabric so we have created three new fits that we think will really impress our consumer.” The fabric uses T400 fibres that help to give a great fit. It’s also, apparently, ultra-comfortable. “We are known for being the king of skinny jeans, but it’s important for us to constantly develop and enhance how our denim feels when worn and to optimise its performance. ‘Snapback’ is definitely a fresh development in our portfolio and we see it as a powerful evolution of our offer.”

T400 fibre is a multi-component yarn in which different polymers are joined together within each filament. The T400 fibre gives greater and more durable stretch and recovery as well as a softer and smoother hand than other textured yarns used for stretch. So Cheap Monday really is stretching it to a new level.

The three new fits are called ‘Mid Snap’, ‘High Snap’ and ‘Flare Snap’. The first is seen as the essential mid rise jean – with a skinny fit, naturally – available in four washes. The high rise waist option also has a skinny fit with skinny legs but it creates more of a ‘perfect’ long silhouette (depending on your body shape of course, and let’s not forget Cheap Monday’s core audience is between 16-24 years old, though the appeal does reach wider). The ‘Flare Snap’ takes on the 1970s flares trend, but gives it a modern interpretation.

The fit is still skinny, but with the flare starting at the knee. Kokni says: “Flares are an interesting trend and an additional option. We feel there is room in a person’s wardrobe for the ‘skinnies’ and the flares. Mixing up styles and looks is the norm,

and we want to deliver the options so our consumers have the choice to have some fun with their look.” Fashion should be fun after all.

Flares currently seem to be all the rage, not seen since their 70s heyday, or brief flit with fashion fame once again in the North with the ‘Madchester’ scene of the early 90s. Kokni continues: “We are seeing flares in variations now.

We have played the proportions to offer cropped and shrunken flares and all varieties of the size of the flare itself. So it’s not only the super extreme or bell bottom style, but all and everything in between. There is so much choice. We see them being styled with simple cropped tees and tank tops, or being part of a more directional layered look that plays with proportions.”

April 2016 will also see the launch of a very limited capsule collection with Faustine Steinmetz.

“Her slow fashion approach with a bold yet fragile deconstructed aesthetic will truly wow,” gushes Kokni. All garments will be based on classic denim silhouettes – jeans, denim jacket and tees, but carefully interpreted into wearable pieces of denim art. Faustine herself is hand-pulling the fabric weaves on certain pieces. “It’s a real fusion of her high-end, slow conceptual approach with our belief that we can bring jeans and fashion to the people with great products at a great price,” adds Kokni. That is pretty much what the brand is all about, after all.

Hakan Strom sees the UK as integral to the continued success of the brand. And certainly a market that picks up on new trends sooner than most: a worthy barometer as to what styles will prove most popular. He comments: “The UK is a very important market for us. It’s one of our top three markets. Our own store on London’s

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Carnaby Street is performing great, and we are proud to have a strong business with key accounts such as Urban Outfitters and ASOS.” On the business side, Strom talks of “getting closer to the buyers” themselves, as they have now taken over markets like the UK and the US to deal directly, instead of going through distributors.

That level of business must certainly have hurt any distributors previously dealing with certain territories’ accounts, that’s for sure. “The move has been a clear boost for our business,” stresses Strom. “Key accounts are very important for us, and we have to do what we can to optimise that part of our business, and to be a good supplier. In the past year or so we have recruited some more senior people for new roles in order for our company to be able to take the next step. The best thing of all is that there is still a lot more to come from us.”

Perhaps slightly surprising given the brand’s Swedish roots – though obviously they had a very strong following among their Scandinavian neighbours – Cheap Monday’s first store opened back in Copenhagen in 2009. Opening three years ago, the second standalone store was indeed on Carnaby Street, which clearly signifies the strength the brand felt it had on these shores. It’s true that the British seem to love a bit of Scandinavian mystique, even if it is primarily about making decent jeans at a competitive price, and putting an unforgettable, in-your-face logo on them.

There’s certainly a strong feeling that the new ‘Snapback’ jeans will give the brand even greater payback. It may be called Cheap Monday, but as a denim business there’s no doubting it knows how to rake in a few quid.

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Designs on denim The jeans sector continues to go from strength to strength, with all-new fabric innovations, treatments and technological advances driving the continued growth of the sector. Body-contouring and figure-enhancing properties have become a significant focus for most denim players, adding further credentials to denim as a key product category. WWB takes a look at the latest silhouette-shaping launches and styles available.

MOS MOSH Danish brand Mos Mosh offers a vast selection of denim styles, with the Naomi Troks the bestseller among them. These jeans have subtle detailing on the pockets, slim fit leg and ‘butt lifting’ qualities thanks to the clever positioning of the studding and the zips on the back pockets. The Naomi Trok comes in a multitude of colours and washes and is available for immediate delivery. In addition, the Deluxe Basic NOOS range Athena also offers five different leg styles and the same fit and flattering look, with great recovery in shape and a high degree of comfort.

SALSA Salsa offers a variety of figure enhancing styles, including the Wonder, known for its push up effect maximised by back pocket design; the Mid-Waist Wonder, a push up jean, also available with skinny leg; and the Secret, the most comfortable and sculpting high-waist jeans in the range, which give the appearance of a flat tummy.

BLENDSHE BlendShe has designed five different fits which promise to suit virtually every woman’s body type. Each of the brand’s ‘Fabulous Five’ range has a distinct imprint and fit that will never waver or change. Washes, colour and leg shapes, however, evolve constantly with the season, making sure that the brand is in tune with fashion, but not a fashion victim.

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WIZARD Wizard jeans have special pockets made from high quality, strong fabric which are then stitched tightly either side of the leg inside the jean to maximise support and pull in and lift up the stomach. The styles feature special bonding which benefit from an exclusive body contouring technology, lifting the bottom, holding the stomach and giving a flattering silhouette to the hips. A full rise means that the jeans come up to and into the shape of the waist, elongating the legs, while natural rise, which is also available, means the jeans come up to the navel and have been cut a little straighter at the top, helping to disguise the dreaded muffin tops.

WRANGLER Wrangler’s latest collection features an athleisure inspired Active Ready line made with comfortable, flexible denim, ensuring wearers look great and can get active in style.

The range includes a selection of jogging jeans that have the visual appearance of denim but are woven with innovative fabric technology to increase comfort and movement. Also available are lightweight seasonal jeans designed with Coolmax, which uses fibres inspired by sports technology.

SAMSOE & SAMSOE Made from premium European denim and finished with Italian trims, Samsoe & Samsoe focuses on the perfect construction and stitching.

A flattering, classic minimalist look is at the core of the collection, with waistbands, pockets and topstitch details having been redesigned to create a sophisticated and wearable aesthetic.

FREDDY JEANS Freddy jeans feature WR.UP technology, based on a series of cuts, silicone inserts and materials to enhance and support the female body. Freddy jeans have become a key player in the active fashion sector, and have a celebrity following that includes the likes of Britney Spears, Abbey Clancy and Eva Longoria. The WR.UP technology is the result of detailed research, certified by numerous exclusive patents.

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MELTIN’POT Iconic denim brand Meltin’Pot, which is relaunching in the UK this season, offers a vast selection of authentic denim. A key style within the range is the Maia, a silhouette shaping jean which incorporates a double inverted seam into each of the back pockets, pulling together and thus lifting the bum to give a flattering look and pertness to the shape. The Maia fit promises to work on any shape, be that super skinny, regular, flare or bell bottom.

GARCIA JEANS

SILVIAN HEACH

Garcia Jeans combines Dutch down-to-earthness and creativity with Italian craftsmanship and sophistication. The brand offers six different fits which offer ultra comfort through the use of stretch denim qualities. Features such as high waists flatten the tummy areas, while straight leg styles will slim and elongate the figure. Fitted at the hips, other key styles also come as medium back and front rise, offering extra comfort because of wide and curved waistbands, which mimics the natural shape of the waist and avoids gaping.

Innovative details mix with high-quality fabrics at Silvian Heach, with a look that appreciates retro influences without falling into pure vintage. The range covers authentic indigo styles to more trendy and unconventional pieces, with a contemporary rock vibe also running through the collection. Cupro and chambray also feature, while treatments include a variety of washes and on-trend tear effects.

NYDJ NYDJ first pioneered the slimming denim category by introducing a jean that was both comfortable and figure flattering, thus igniting a cult following among women worldwide. The brand’s jeans feature its signature Lift Tuck Technology that slims from within to make women look and feel a size smaller. A unique slimming panel with criss-cross design, as well as a high rise that hits at the natural waist create a slimmer frame without gaping at the waistband.

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APT COLLECTIONS LTD | PHONE: 020 7580 3202 | EMAIL: NIGEL@APTCOLLECTIONS.LTD.UK

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MAC Mac Dream Denim is an innovative denim quality with a special fibre composition that results in a particularly soft handle and comfort for every figure type. The style has been a key growth driver for the brand thanks to the use of finest materials and workmanship that combine to offer great fit and figure enhancing properties, allowing the wearer to go down a size. The style is backed up by a fast NOS system.

ATELIER GARDEUR German brand Atelier Gardeur promises to create the “best figure” thanks to a number of features and tailoring tricks in its trouser and denim designs, including shifted forward side seams and a flattering front-back rise ratio. The brand’s own team of expert designers develop specialist prototypes based around comfort, durability, washes and ecological production season after season.

BRAX

SCOTCH & SODA A collection targeting a “true denim explorer”, Scotch & Soda offers an array of fits, from slim to slouch, with washes that are a fresh take on authentic classics. Reworked boyfriend fits are a big focus, especially in the El Capitan stone wash in mid blue. Shades of indigo also feature, with the collection taking on a distinct vintage rock ‘n’ roll theme.

Over at Brax, the brand’s Shakira style has become a bestseller for the brand. Its free-to-move stretch fabric, which features high elasticity and is extremely soft, offers maximum comfort and creates the illusion of being a size smaller. Unlike many other brands, it is not heavy and has no inbuilt panels, with only the stretch quality providing the figure-enhancing properties. This skinny style is available in denim as never out of stock and seasonal colours and jacquards.

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RELISH Innovations and comfort are two of the key style principles at Relish. The brand offers a variety of fits to flatter the figure, including regular, slim, ultra slim, push up and boy fit, with emphasis put on features such as pockets, slim zips on the knees and a variety of washes and treatments.

Dungarees that accentuate the female body shape are the latest addition to the brand’s denim line-up.

JQ The brand’s three key signature styles, Penelope, Daniela and Debbie, represent the body-sculpting cosmetic qualities and the Nip + Tuck effect that the brand is famous for. One of the original stretch denim brands, JQ’s collection also features gabardine, jacquards and light technical denim, as well as super comfort stretch Tencel styles.

MICHELE One of the original figureenhancing and bum-lifting brands, Michele’s Magic range continues to be among the bestsellers. Clever designs and constant innovation ensure that the brand offers newness each season, while its shaping properties, which make the wearer appear at least a size smaller, continue to drive the appeal of the brand. Dark washes, skinny fits, mid-rise and slim silhouettes are among the bestselling features, as well as denim with visual texture such as small jacquards and fine velvets.

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Independent spirit Womenswear indie Angela of Long Melford recently celebrated its 35th anniversary and remains one of the most reputable stores in the country. Isabella Griffiths caught up with owner and namesake Angela Wybrew to find out how she has continued to play in the top league of retailing and what the future has in-store for the business.

In 1980, a young woman queued in line at the post office in Long Melford, a small village in Suffolk, and asked to speak to the post master. Her enquiry had nothing to do with stamps or deliveries, however. Instead, she asked boldly whether he might consider clearing out his Calor gas cans, build a partition wall and rent out part of his premises so that she might open a dress shop. It was quite fortunate, therefore, that the post master granted the request and decided to lease his space.

This young lady was Angela Wybrew and, 35 years on, the eponymous shop she established at that time is a cornerstone of the regional retail scene and Wybrew herself is one of the most respected womenswear indies in the country.

Having started her professional life as a secretary, she found that she was enjoying the interaction with people far more and, after a brief stint as the first female sales agent in East Anglia for her father’s menswear company I.E.H. Jones, she took the big step and set up shop with her husband Paul.

Today, the store occupies the old Maltings building in

Long Melford, an 8,000 sq ft space full of character. Speaking to Wybrew, it is clear that even after all this time her enthusiasm and passion for the industry and retail remain and drive her.

Having recently celebrated her 35th anniversary with a party and fashion show for customers, Wybrew looks back at the legendary business she has built. “When I started out, I never thought we would get to 35 years,” she says. “You just don’t think like that. But here we are. And I still love it as much as on day one. You never stop learning, you never stop evolving; the industry is ever changing with some absolutely lovely people, and that’s the big draw. We’ve had some amazing years.”

Nestled among a diverse mix of shops, bars, restaurants and beauty salons, Angela of Long Melford is a destination store, with the catchment area reaching way beyond the borders of her Suffolk home. In fact, as she is proud to point out, one of her regular customers who used to reside in the area but now lives in Vienna, still flies in four times a year to be kitted out by Wybrew herself – that’s customer loyalty right there. It’s not just

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the personal customer service that the store is known for, but also the wealth of contemporary and premium international labels that attract customers from all over. Most of the brands in the portfolio, such as Basler, Luisa Cerano, Marc Cain, Airfield, Laurel, Joseph Ribkoff, Michele, Condici, Wolford, Gant and more, have been part of the store make-up for years and are exclusive to Angela of Long Melford in the region. “We don’t really rely on passing trade. Our footfall mainly derives from customers who come here specifically, because we are unique in our setting and brand mix,” says Wybrew. “A lot of the independent shops around us have gone; in fact, we are the only clothes indie still left in the area. We are very different to all the high-street stores, and that’s what our customers appreciate,” she adds.

The demise of many indies is not the only change Wybrew has witnessed in her 35-year career in the trade; key changes also include the way customers shop and ultimately dress, and it is an adjustment that is fluid and constant. “Our ladies are buying less these days, so we sell less and therefore we buy less and repeat more on key styles. Back in the day, the fashion trends were a lot smarter; ladies dressed in suits and coordinated sets. Nowadays it’s all about mixing and matching expensive with cheaper styles and everything is a lot more casual. Our customers buy a lot more investment pieces. Instead of buying a whole outfit, they will buy key styles that they can wear with various different looks,” says Wybrew.

The store’s customer base is mainly centred around the affluent 45-plus customer, with the young-at-heart, 60-plus lady at the core, though Wybrew has been actively targeting a new generation of consumer in order to future-proof the business.

“Our most loyal customers are the more mature ladies, but increasingly we have been targeting their daughters, too. It’s not easy to reach out to this customer, as there are so many stores she can choose from, but we are getting there,” concedes Wybrew. “We have increased our social media presence and I have a young member of staff who dedicates a lot of her efforts

on this side of the business, and it’s starting to pay off,” she says.

Angela of Long Melford’s online presence also plays a part in this – though it is non-transactional, it is a sophisticated online platform that represents the store and functions as a digital shop window and introduction to the business – not that this is needed, seeing that the store is so well known. Wybrew has made a conscious decision not to launch an ecommerce arm for the foreseeable future and to focus efforts on in-store sales instead. It’s a calculated strategy that seems to be working for the business. “Going online requires a huge investment; you have to do it properly or not at all. Paul [Wybrew, husband] and I have looked into it, but we have decided that for our customer base it wouldn’t be the right channel. There are so many elements that need to be juggled and considered. For instance, the amount of stock you have to have and which is then out of the shop for x-amount of time, then the returns and cashflow and everything. For the time being we feel we are better off focusing on what we do best, and that’s customer service instore,” she explains. Big growth areas for the store are cruisewear and mother-of-the-bride, which are attracting a lot of demand year-round.

Three and a half decades into retailing, Wybrew has had her fair share of successes and challenges – most notably two major stock market crashes and a great storm in 1987 which wreaked havoc on the roof of the premises and left the store severely damaged – but her passion and energy are unfaltering.

Asked what advice she would give to anyone starting out with a new boutique, she doesn’t hesitate. “You have to be passionate about it, otherwise you may as well not bother,” she says. “And you have to work hard, all the time. And surround yourself with reputable people – your suppliers, your business associates, etc, as all of this reflects on your business. I’ve made my fair share of mistakes, don’t get me wrong, but you have to just pick yourself back up and carry on.” She continues, “And remember, you are only as good as your team and the strength of the brands you stock that season.”

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Ecommerce for SMEs Ian Jindal, editor-in-chief and founder of ecommerce trade magazine Internet Retailing, is also a consultant, keynote speaker and board-level advisor to major retail and consumer businesses including House of Fraser, Marks & Spencer and John Lewis. Here, he applies his expertise to SMEs, and advises how smaller businesses can make the most of ecommerce.

Experts predict that around 85.4 per cent of the UK population shops online and 69 per cent of consumers use credit cards as their primary method of payment. Clearly, the online retail market in the UK is on the rise. The reason? It is a great time to be a shopper, and it’s getting better all the time.

Never before has it been so easy to find and buy the retail products consumers want to have. Thanks to the growth of digital, and in particular mcommerce, consumers can check and compare product details and prices in a few clicks, wherever they are. And, when they have found the item they want, it is just a few keystrokes more to buy and arrange convenient delivery.

Nowadays, customers have high expectations. They want to shop in-store, but they also want the option of looking online – whether that be on their laptop, desktop, mobile or tablet. As a result, retailers are re-evaluating the way they do business. In this new world of omnichannel commerce, the rulebook of how to run a retail business is cast aside, and merchants must adapt to survive.

This sometimes portrays a challenge to large retailers who are changing and adjusting their business model to this new more complex era. But if the big players are struggling, what about the small and medium businesses?

With the high street continuing to evolve, retailers of all sizes need to keep up with modern shopping habits to ensure business growth, drive revenue and keep customers coming back – whether in-store or online. Businesses of all sizes find themselves needing to create an “always on” omnichannel presence or mobile app to attract new and repeat customers.

Many small businesses in particular find this to be challenging. Nonetheless, this challenge should be tackled as an opportunity for them to level the playing field, because the demand is growing, and those who take the lead will win a competitive advantage.

SMEs are more aware of the need but, if we analyse their adoption rate in recent years, there is still too great a rate of missed sales due, primarily, to poor implementation and observation of their customers’ habits.

A study performed in 2013, found out that British SMEs were moving online in order to be more competitive. The

amount of enterprises that created an ecommerce site increased by 19 per cent in the first three months of that year.

In 2014, MasterCard’s MerchantScope study found that while 90 per cent of small companies around the world have an online presence of some sort (though not necessarily a website), only one in five offered ecommerce capabilities. In other words, only 20 per cent of small and mid-sized firms let customers buy their products and services online.

The same study says that small businesses are avoiding implementing ecommerce for two main reasons – cost (46 per cent) and lack of know-how (31 per cent). Now that the underpinning technology that powers ecommerce is mature, scalable and cheap, it is also easier to understand and to implement.

As a result, more and more businesses should seize the opportunity of becoming digital. The scale of change can be breathtaking, and the learning curve steep, but necessary. With this in mind, here are a few simple steps towards success: SIMPLY BE ONLINE An ecommerce website can be relatively cheap and is an effective way to reach a wider audience. Although there may be a lack of technical expertise and understanding, there are off-the-shelf solutions to purchase that can do it for you.

PREPARE TO GO MOBILE Today, customers see mobile as the remote control for the brands they trust. They expect to use their smartphones and tablet computers to manage information.

By 2016, 61 per cent of web traffic will be driven by mobile, so make sure you and your website is ready for your mobile customers. Having adaptable platforms in mind from the beginning will make the investment less costly, but much more effective when seizing this growing audience.

Also, provide a clear purchase path via smartphone and tablet, and test them thoroughly.

ENHANCE THE ONLINE CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE AND JOURNEY It is important to focus on the customer and understand what

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“WITH THE HIGH STREET CONTINUING TO EVOLVE, RETAILERS OF ALL SIZES NEED TO KEEP UP WITH MODERN SHOPPING HABITS TO ENSURE BUSINESS GROWTH, DRIVE REVENUE AND KEEP CUSTOMERS COMING BACK WHETHER IN-STORE OR ONLINE.”

your customer base wants. Whether creating a website, mobile or tablet app, customers want to be able to recognise your brand, easily search for products and buy them without a hitch.

DEVELOP YOUR OPERATIONS AND LOGISTICS SYSTEMS When orders start to take off, it is important that solid logistics underpin your operations. Getting delivery right means traders win more sales, while those who don’t, miss out. Returns or cancellation policies should be built efficiently while ensuring customer satisfaction and providing return on investment.

DEVELOP AND STRENGTHEN YOUR DIGITAL SALES AND MARKETING PLAN Building a successful multichannel sales and marketing strategy is the key to ecommerce sales growth and success. Make sure your messages are consistent across all channels, tailored to specific audiences, and remember to measure, test and learn.

BE APPROACHABLE THROUGH SOCIAL MEDIA Social media can be key to digital strategy. Not only is it a powerful engagement tool, social media also allows brands to have conversations with their customers. Use it effectively to make yourself available and to respond to customers, however they get in touch.

KNOW YOUR CUSTOMERS Personalisation is an established trend in ecommerce, and for a reason.

Successful personalisation means filtering your products or services to display items related to your customers’ previous purchases, buying habits or preferences. Provide your customer with relevant, personalised information which engages them and keeps them coming back.

TRANSFORM BUYERS INTO REGULARS Keep an eye on your customers’ satisfaction and perceived value of the experience they have when shopping from you.

Work on a number of ways to add value to your goods or services, and think of benefits to offer in exchange of their loyalty.

GIVE THEM A REASON TO COME IN-STORE When speaking to customers, online and on social media, give them a reason to come into the shop. Whether this is a percentage discount or complimentary treat, it will drive footfall.

Even if it may sound challenging, what is required can be both simple and transforming. We are now well set up to adapt and change quickly and cost efficiently for future requirements. The high street and retail sector will continue to evolve, and businesses need to keep up with customer’s habits. People are going to be shopping faster and smarter, but the opportunities for SMEs are huge. For those willing to go digital, adapt, offer an integral and outstanding customer experience and fully integrate, there is a bright multichannel future ahead in ecommerce.

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Exhibition calendar

Sponsored by

The key shows for a/w 16 at a glance.

PANORAMA BERLIN 19-21 January 2016 ExpoCenter City, Berlin 0049 30275956040 www.panorama-berlin.com The Berlin trade show returns to the ExpoCenter City for the upcoming show season. New updates include an additional platform located in hall 9, the Nova Concept, designed to showcase contemporary fashion and lifestyle products. Also new this season is the show’s first dedicated shoes and accessories section, showing brands such as Bulaggi, Bullboxer, Exceed Shoes, Coxx-Borba and Fly London. Visitors can also expect to find the usual offering of womenswear collections from brands including Glamorous, Soma London and Brakeburn.

PREMIUM 19-21 January 2016 Station-Berlin, Luckenwalder Strasse, Berlin 0049 (0)306290850 www.premiumexhibitions.com More than 60,000 visitors are expected to peruse over 1,500 collections on offer at the latest edition of the trade show. The a/w 16 fair presents a diverse list of exhibitors, separated into eight categories including Casual, Avantgarde, Rock, Sporty and Playful. Based in the historic halls of Station-Berlin, the venue holds approximately 23, 000 sq m of exhibition space spread over eight halls. As usual, the fair presents a strong portfolio of high-calibre international exhibitors including See By Chloe, Harris Wharf London and Second Female.

COUROMODA 10-13 January 2016 Expo Center Norte Sao Paulo 0055 38976100 www.couromoda.com WHITE 16-18 January 2016 Via Tortona 27, 20144 Milan 0039 234592785 www.whiteshow.it SEEK 19-21 January 2016 Eichenstrasse 4, 12435 Berlin 0049 302088913400 www.seekexhibitions.com BRIGHT 19-21 January 2016 Am Flutgraben, 12435 Berlin 0049 6966962157 www.brighttradeshow.com BIJORHCA 22-25 January 2016 Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 (0)147565282 www.bijorhca.com

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INDIA INTERNATIONAL GARMENT FAIR 20-22 January 2016 Pragati Maidan, New Delhi, India 0091 1242708027 www.indiaapparelfair.com At the 56th edition of the trade show based in New Delhi, over 1,500 buyers are expected to descend upon the apparel and accessories fair.

Spread over eight halls and 17,250 sq m of exhibition space, approximately 400 exhibitors will present a mix of men’s, women’s and children’s garments and accessories. The show continues with a global focus, following the last edition, which attracted over 800 international buyers from 68 countries.

PREMIERE CLASSE 22-25 January 2016 Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 140137483 www.premiere-classe.com PROJECT NEW YORK 24-26 January 2016 Jacob Javits Center, New York 0012 187407092 www.magiconline.com

WHO’S NEXT 22-25 January 2016 Parc Des Expositions, Porte De Versailles, Paris 0033 (0)140137483 www.whosnext-tradeshow.com Continuing into the next season with its presentation of five halls, housing ready-to-wear collections, the Paris trade show splits brands into five areas: Fame, Private, Trendy, Urban and Studio. Over 55,000 buyers and visitors are expected to descend on the next edition, browsing over 800 international collections.

The diverse mix of brands include Lavish Alice, Ruby Ray, Ewa I Walla, Wom & Now, Moonhee and Poe. TRANOI 23-25 January 2016 Palais de la Bourse / Cité de la Mode et du Design, Paris 0033 (0)153018490 www.tranoi.com For the a/w 16 edition, Tranoi will launch Tranoi Parfums, a specialist perfume exhibition to be held alongside the usual offering of men’s and women’s collections. Based at the new show venue Cité de la Mode et du Design, Tranoi Parfums will run in conjunction with womenswear platform Tranoi Preview. The new venue provides the show with a contemporary focus thanks to its design and will run alongside current show venue Palais de la Bourse. Visitors can view collections from the likes of Tallis, Begg & Co and Capri.

SUPREME 30 January-2 February 2016 Bennigsen Platz 1 Kaiserswertherstraße/Ecke Karl-Arnold-Platz 40474 Düsseldorf 0049 894204479 www.munichfashioncompany.com GALLERY STUDIO 2-6 February 2016 Forum, Copenhagen 0045 40330930 www.gallerystudio.dk CIFF 3-5 February 2016 Bella Center, Copenhagen 0045 3252 8811 www.ciff.dk REVOLVER 3-5 February 2016 Meatpacking District, Tietgensgade 65, Copenhagen 0045 39648586 www.revolver.dk MOMAD METROPOLIS 5-7 February 2016 IFEMA Convention & Congress Centre, Madrid 0034 917223000 www.momad.metropolis. ifema.es LONDONEDGE 7-9 February 2016 West Hall, Olympia, London 0116 289 8249 www.londonedge.com uuu

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MODEFABRIEK 24-25 January 2016 Amsterdam RAI, Amsterdam 0031 (0)204421960 www.modefabriek.nl This show season marks the 40th edition of Modefabriek and a completely changed layout for the Amsterdam exhibition. Split into four districts, sections showcase collections defined by categories: contemporary fashion, denim & streetwear, premium labels and sustainable fashion. With an aim to inspire more networking opportunities, the new layout will encourage interaction, innovation and creativity with added elements of design, art, food, photography and music also featuring at the show.

INDX WOMENSWEAR & FOOTWEAR 10-12 February 2016 Cranmore Park, Solihull 0121 713 4453 www.indxshow.co.uk GDS 10-12 February 2016 Messe Dusseldorf, Germany 0049 21145607606 www.gds-online.com

SCOOP 31 January-2 February 2016 Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea London 020 7596 5154 www.scoop-international.com For a/w 16, boutique trade show Scoop will take place at its usual location inside the Saatchi Gallery. A host of new signings will join the show this season, with debuting brands including Fay & Solas and Ultra Tee from the UK, Oakwood from France, Voltan from Italy and US label S’well Bottles. This season’s edition will showcase over 250 contemporary international designer collections across women’s apparel, accessories, lifestyle and perfumery.

LONDON FASHION WEEK 19-23 February 2016 Brewer Street Car Park London, UK 020 7759 1990 www.londonfashionweek.co.uk London Fashion Week showcases over 250 designers to a global audience of media and retailers. It is estimated that orders of over £100m are placed during London Fashion Week each season. For the upcoming season, the show will continue with its new central location in the heart of Soho.

PURE 14-16 February 2016 Olympia, London 020 3033 2015 www.purelondon.com MICAM 14-17 February 2016 Fiera Milano, Milan 0039 02438291 www.micamonline.com CAPSULE LAS VEGAS 15-17 February 2016 The Venetian Ballroom, 3355 S Las Vegas Blvd 0012 122068310 www.capsuleshow.com PREMIERE VISION PARIS 16-18 February 2016 Parc des Expositions, Paris Nord-Villepinte, Paris 0033 170387030 www.premierevision.com MAGIC 16-18 February 2016 Las Vegas Convention Centre and the Mandalay Bay Convention Centre 0031 08577500 www.magiconline.com CAPSULE NEW YORK 21-23 February 2016 Pier 94, 711 12th Ave, New York 0012 122068310 www.capsuleshow.com uuu

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MODA WOMAN 21-23 February 2016 NEC, Birmingham, UK 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk This season sees Moda adopt a new format, with new locations for each of its five sectors, and a new unisex border between Moda Woman and Moda Gent. Alongside established areas Moda White – dedicated to directional, contemporary labels – and Moda Noir, the area for eveningwear and occasionwear, Moda Woman will launch Moda Loves, showcasing fashion-forward, young women’s styles. Confirmed labels include Brakeburn, Rino & Pelle, Junge, Tara Vao, Smashed Lemon, Michaela Louisa, Lily & Me, Braintree, Sahara and Intown.

CPM MOSCOW 23-26 February 2016 Expocentre Fairgrounds, Moscow 0049 211/4396-01 www.cpm-moscow.com ASIA APPAREL EXPO 24-26 February 2016 Messe Berlin, Germany 00852 35889688 www.asiaapparelexpo.com

MODA FOOTWEAR 21-23 February 2016 NEC, Birmingham, UK 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Moda Footwear re-introduces its Boutique platform this season as part of a brand-new focus on women’s footwear. Dedicated to contemporary labels, the area will host a wide range of women’s collections from brands including Lemon Jelly, Peter Kaiser, Lisa Kay, Hoegl, Alpe and Ruby Shoo. Elsewhere in the exhibition, Moda Footwear will play host to its usual wide range of exhibitors including Hush Puppies, Sebago and Aigle.

MODA ACCESSORIES 21-23 February 2016 NEC, Birmingham, UK 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Moda Accessories adopts a new layout, which will see collections within the show maximising their adjacencies with complementary collections within Moda Noir, Moda White and contemporary ranges within Moda Woman.

Held at Birmingham’s NEC, niche and international accessory brands come together to show the latest collections, including Betty Barclay, Artsac, Smith & Canova and Dents.

ILM 27-29 February 2016 Messe Offenbach GmbH, Kaiserstrasse 108-112 Berlin 0049 6982975520 www.ilm-offenbach.de SUPER 27-29 February 2016 Pavilion 3 at Fiera Milano City, Milan 0039 0553693223 www.pittimmagine.com ILM 27-29 February 2016 Messe Offenbach GmbH, Kaiserstrasse 108-112 Berlin 0049 6982975523 www.ilm-offenbach.de CAPSULE PARIS 4-6 March 2016 Tapis Rouge, 67 rue du Faubourg, Saint-Martin, 75010 Paris 0012 122068310 www.capsuleshow.com MOMAD SHOES 4-6 March 2016 IFEMA Convention & Congress Centre, Madrid 0034 902 221515 www.momad.metropolis. ifema.es

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MODA LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR 21-23 February 2016 NEC, Birmingham, UK 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk Moda Lingerie & Swimwear relocates into its own hall within the NEC this season, maximising its identity as the sector’s national show while maintaining convenient adjacencies with Moda Woman. The exhibition will welcome back Triumph, alongside a strengthened roster of other labels including Wacoal, Fantasie, Freya, Panache, Curvy Kate, Lepel and Charnos.

TRANOI FEMME 4-7 March 2016 Palais de la Bourse / Cité de la Mode et du Design, Paris 0033 153018490 www.tranoi.com THE LONDON BRIDAL SHOW 6-8 March 2016 Olympia London W14 020 7772 8300 www.thelondonbridalshow. co.uk

SCOOP LONDON 21-23 February 2016 Saatchi Gallery, Chelsea London 020 7596 5154 www.scoop-international.com Scoop’s second trade show of the season, Scoop London will see over 150 contemporary designers from around the world showcasing collections here. The timetable has been devised to cater for overseas labels and their production agendas, as well as high-end collections, emerging British designers and first and second lines, with the majority of brands showing exclusively at the February dateline, offering an unmissable selection of contemporary designers from the UK and across the globe.

ASIA’S FASHION, JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES FAIR 2-5 March 2016 AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong 0085 225162192 www.asiafja.com In the upcoming edition, AsiaFJA will house over 430 local and overseas exhibitors. Four themed zones will define product categories, with sections including Stainless Steel Jewellery Pavilion, Fashion Accessories Zone, Sense Zone and Fashion Jewellery Atelier. Over 5,400 international visitors from over 90 countries are expected to attend this season’s edition, browsing collections from brands from a diverse list of countries including China, India, Korea, France and Germany.

CHIC SHANGHAI 16-18 March 2016 National Exhibition & Convention Centre, Shanghai 0049 21130264337 www.chiconline.com.cn THE HUB 16-18 March 2016 Central Studios, Xintiandi, Shanghai, China www.thehub.hk FASHION ACCESS 30 March-1 April 2016 Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong 0085 228276211 www.fashionaccess.aplf.com VM AND DISPLAY SHOW 20-21 April 2016 Business Design Centre, London 01945 420068 www.vmanddisplay.com BARCELONA BRIDAL WEEK 29 April-1 May 2016 Fira de Barcelona – Gran Via venue. Av. Joan Carles I, 64 – 08908, Barcelona 020 7723 8327 www.barcelonabridalweek. com/en/inici

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For trade enquiries and for the new AW16 Brochure, call 0844 811 2322 www.regatta.com

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Scoop: New Faces Boutique trade show Scoop will once again gather a host of new names and fresh labels across ready-to-wear, accessories and lifestyle products at its next edition in January. Ahead of the show, WWB introduces three of the many exciting newcomers.

L2 BY LOMA

SCOOP AT A GLANCE DATE: 31 JANUARY TO 2 FEBRUARY VENUE: SAATCHI GALLERY, DUKE OF YORK’S HQ, KING’S ROAD, LONDON SW3 4RY OPENING TIMES: SUNDAY 9. 3 0AM - 6PM MONDAY 9. 3 0AM - 6PM TUESDAY 9. 3 0AM - 4PM PRE-REGISTRATION AND FURTHER INFORMATION: WWW. SCOOP-INTERNATIONAL .COM

What’s the story?

L2 by Loma London is the diffusion collection of the Loma brand – a luxurious, contemporary knitwear brand that launched in 2012. Based in London, creative director and founder Lorna Masters is obsessive about producing beautiful, refined pieces, which are relaxed and effortless. Drawing on her extensive design background for several leading fashion companies, her collections deliver timeless, stylish sweaters with an emphasis on cashmere and cashmere blends. L2 complements the designs of Loma at a more accessible price range without compromising design.

What is the signature of the brand?

L2 is a stylish, elegant collection with a more casual aesthetic. It’s a clean, slightly understated look with a lean towards architectural shapes, utilising highly considered details. There are always graphic stripes and geometric elements, often played against a minimal bohemian vibe. The attention to proportion, fit and detail make the sweater special, but not obvious.

What is the target market?

L2 is a luxury product but with a competitive price point. The range of designs, from bold graphics to classics with a twist, mean that the collection can be worn by many women of different ages.

What has been the biggest milestone for the label so far?

The biggest milestone has been whittling the collection down from hundreds of designs to a handpicked edit of 30 styles. Despite a multitude of ideas, Masters wanted to make sure the debut collection was focused and offer quality rather than quantity.

What can we expect from the a/w 16 collection?

Key styles will have architectural shapes that are different but easy to wear.

There are also some fun styles that have bold graphics. Colours range from soft pinks and blues to classics of charcoal and stone, with pop colours of cherry and bright blue. The collection will always be design-led rather than trend-led, ensuring that the designs will never go out of style.

Ambitions for Scoop?

The January edition of Scoop will be the first opportunity for buyers to see the debut L2 range in its London home environment. “Scoop is a great way to showcase new brands and always has a vast range of buyers, from smaller independents to department stores and international buyers. The other brands that show at Scoop are always of a really high calibre, which is also very important,” says Masters.

Future plans?

In the next few years, the designer would like to develop the brand to offer a full ready-to-wear collection. These pieces will share the same relaxed luxury as the knitwear. Beyond that, a stand-alone store is a long-term ambition so that the full L2 and Loma aesthetic can be showcased.

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CLUSE WATCHES What’s the story?

A relatively young, Amsterdam-based brand, which started in 2013 and has grown rapidly since. The founders, Rudyard Bekker and Ed Postmus, already had successful backgrounds in the watch business, but wanted to be more than retailers and to tell a story through their own products – so Cluse was born.

Early in 2015, the team was expanded and, in addition to its web shop, the brand is now also sold in over 250 stores worldwide.

What’s the signature style?

Drawing inspiration from minimalist fashion and subtle colours, the watches have interchangeable straps, creating a highly versatile product that appeals to many different women and can be adjusted to each outfit.

Who is the target market?

A diversity of women, who all have in common that they are unique, ambitious and self-confident. The Cluse woman likes travelling, socialising and having fun. She likes things that are beautiful yet simple.

What has been the biggest milestone for the label so far?

Cluse recently reached 100,000 followers on Instagram, which was a great milestone as Instagram has been the essential medium for the brand’s communication. Over the past year and a half, Cluse has been involved in many collaborations with cool and inspiring fashion bloggers and Instagrammers, who all represented the collection in the most creative ways.

What can we expect from the a/w 16 collection?

Cluse promises to stay true to its minimalist and elegant identity, but it is also

expanding its collections with more colours, designs and textures to develop, improve and evolve the product. Expect to also find limited-edition releases and playful surprises, though the original Cluse style will prevail.

Ambitions for Scoop?

“The Scoop show’s contemporary character really appeals to us,” says a spokesperson for the brand. “We expect that exhibiting at Scoop will mean being surrounded by cool and inspirational brands, and meeting many interesting people that could be very meaningful in building our retail network in the UK. Our goal is to introduce our brand to the UK retail market, but also have some fun in a great environment in the process.”

Future plans?

The brand is young and ambitious, so the focus is very much on continuous international growth, both on and offline.

HUMANOID What’s the story?

The brand was launched in 1981 in Arnhem, The Netherlands. The name literally means Human-oid, like a human. Over 30 years on, what started as a small collective around Sandra Harmsen and Hans Boelens in Arnhem’s Weverstraat has steadily blossomed into a successful, international fashion brand.

What is the signature of the brand?

Humanoid’s pleasantly unruly early-80s feel remains – expressive, creative, authentic, but always functional and contemporary. Every Humanoid collection originates from this core sense of freedom, and the feel of the materials. They appear to be worn-in and washed, they all match in shades, structures and in layering. Featuring fine cashmere, unstable cotton, suede and leather, every collection is a continuation of the previous one. A large luxurious wrap scarf, symbolising the Humanoid feel, has been a staple from the start.

What is the target market?

Europe and the US remain a key focus for the brand, targeting a wide range of women who simply “get” the Humanoid philosophy.

What has been the biggest milestone for the label so far?

International growth has been significant over the last few years, as well as the success of the brand’s ecommerce store, which has opened up the label to an even wider audience.

The introduction to pre-collections has further been a key development for the brand.

What can we expect from the a/w 16 collection?

The collection has a feminine feel, with a nod to the 70s found across silhouettes, fabrics and colours. Silhouettes are fitted, while cropped jumpers, A-line skirts and tees and jumpers with stand-up collars also feature. High-waisted trousers, padded coats and dresses inspired by dressing gowns can also be found, with details taking inspiration from workwear.

Ambitions for Scoop?

Humanoid is keen to expand its presence in the UK market and has chosen Scoop as the main platform to showcase the collection to new customers and like-minded peers.

What are your future plans for the label?

International growth remains at the forefront for the brand, with a multi-channel strategy that sees expansion through shop-in-shops as well as the roll-out of own stores in the future.

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Panorama

19 to 21 January, ExpoCentre City, Berlin www.panorama-berlin.com

PULZ Danish denim brand Pulz favours a casual, layered look this season – think distressed denim with a striped turtleneck and workwear shirt under relaxed coatigans. Texture play is at the core of this, with fabrics such as jacquards, cable knits, suede, velvet, denim, coated surfaces, melanges and spacedyed materials taking centre stage. The mantra for the season is “never out of style”, focusing on ultimate comfort with loose, slouchy silhouettes and denim styling.

CULTURE Danish brand Culture is centred around trendy, feminine clothing with fine details and high wearability. For a/w 16 the colour palette is dominated by warm and burnt tints, combined with a nod to the 70s and a tailored look for today. Layering is key, mixing corduroy, graphic flower prints, stripes and lace.

MOS MOSH Neutrality is a strong message for autumn at Mos Mosh, both in terms of colours and style. The brand concentrates on a classic core of shapes and silhouettes with tasteful upgraded details. The look is relaxed, with sleek shapes and premium fabrics that are tactile and luxurious to touch. Feminine tailoring makes a definitive statement, while denim also continues to be a focus, with unwashed 70s inspired jeans key.

MOS MOSH COMMA

EXPRESSO

ANA ALCAZAR

PULZ

CULTURE

WWB takes a look at some of the brands exhibiting at the Berlin show this season.

ANA ALCAZAR Fine fabrics, precision cuts and extravagant details are the main characteristics of Ana Alcazar. The brand, established in 1995, is the creation of two Munich based sisters who are also the brains behind the label Tricia Jones. Each year more than 3,500 pieces are created in the design duo’s studio, with a focus on individuality and exclusivity, while also referencing key trends.

EXPRESSO Expresso presents a diverse collection for a/w 16, grouped into several trend stories. Comfort Class is dominated by embellishments such as metal coin medallions, leather scales, open-worked fabrics and woven patterns. Colorama offers simple shapes in combination with expressive patterns and silhouettes that give a nod to the 60s.

Galaxy Glam, meanwhile, is centred around raw natural materials with metal accents, 3D textures and metallic coatings.

COMMA German brand Comma offers a wide range of product categories, from glamorous dresses for special occasions through business and daywear to casualwear and a vast selection of outdoor styles. One of the key players in German clothing, Comma’s identity is sophisticated and feminine, with the brand being sold across 2,500 points of sale globally.

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Premium Berlin trade show Premium will open its doors to more than 1,000 brands next season, with a number of new initiatives ready to be launched. WWB gets the lowdown.

Premium continues to be at the heart of the Berlin Fashion scene and has gone from strength to strength since its launch in 2003.

With 1,000 brands and over 1,800 collections on show each season, displayed over an area of 33,000 sq m, Premium provides an influential fashion portfolio spanning contemporary, directional, lifestyle and avant-garde brands. New exhibitors make up 30 per cent of the brand line-up this season, with new concepts and initiatives adding a further injection of freshness to the show.

This season Hall 8 will be dedicated to power brands whose looks are currently shaping the fashion retail sector in Europe, both across womenswear and menswear. These brands are grouped by their straight, clean, often futuristic designs, high-quality materials and impeccable fit. Brands include Drykorn, Tigha, Filippa K, IKKS and J Lindeberg.

A new section concentrating on the latest trend – activewear – launched last season and will make a welcome return. Activewear brands such as Inner Sunset, L’Etoile Sport and No Ka’Oi will gather in this section, alongside broader exhibitors covering categories such as books, food and lifestyle products.

Following the success of the last three events, the newly designed #Fashiontech conference session format will also be revisited, taking place on 20 January with the aim of informing industry players about the latest developments in the field of fashion and technology. The topics encompass relevant areas of the industry where the two combine, with fashion experts, industry insiders, representatives of digital start-ups, aspiring designers and global players coming together to discuss the latest innovations and their impact on the industry.

To make navigation easier and facilitate a targeted visit, Premium has created its ‘brand match tool’, that matches buyers with relevant brands. During registration visitors are asked to enter key information, e.g. store categories, lines and price range, as well

19 – 21 JANUARY STATION BERLIN, LUCKENWALDER STRASSE , BERLIN 19 JANUARY: 10AM TO 7PM 20 JANUARY: 10AM TO 7PM 21 JANUARY: 10AM TO 5PM WWW.PREMIUMEXHIBITIONS.COM

as styles and desired brands, and an individual user profile is created. Visitors can access this on-site using the Premium app, and with the help of GPS navigation, they can follow a pre-planned route through the trade fair halls. Premium estimates that this makes the visit to Premium around 40 per cent more time-efficient than without the use of this tool.

Furthermore, with joint ticketing between Premium and other relevant shows taking place in Berlin concurrently, visitors with a Premium badge can also gain access to Seek, Bright, Show & Order, the Green Showroom and the Ethical Fashion Show, which are linked via a shuttle system.

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Foreign sands Morocco may initially be thought of as an obscure place for a trade show. However, after much of the UK textile business disappeared in 2011, the country is again emerging as a viable sourcing option. Last month, Rebecca Jackson visited the Maroc in Mode & Maroc Sourcing fair in Marrakech to find out more.

When among the vibrancy of Marrakech, it’s almost impossible to imagine that anything exists outside of this eclectic city.

Looming silhouettes of the Atlas Mountains, which can be seen even from within the confines of the ancient medina, act as a constant reminder of Morocco’s diverse landscape. Great stretches of impenetrable desert lie further south; meanwhile, to the west, is the vast North Atlantic Ocean. Positioned somewhere in between this sparse and varied landscape is Marrakech and the Maroc in Mode & Maroc Sourcing tradeshow.

This year, the 12th edition of Maroc Sourcing and the 13th edition of Maroc in Mode, approximately 1,500 visitors descended upon the manufacturing and sourcing exhibition during 4-6 November. Over three days, approximately 750 buyers from international locations including France, Italy, Spain, Germany and the UK frequented the stands, which were organised in five sections: fast fashion, denim, Moroccan brands, knitwear and technical use fabrics/ work clothes.

For 2015, the fair returned to Marrakech after a three-year stint at the conference and exhibition centre L’Office des Changes in the city centre of Casablanca. Here all exhibitors

showcased their products in one hall. However, upon moving location to the International WTCC racetrack circuit Moulay Hassan in Marrakech, the layout was changed to incorporate two levels. Ninety-five exhibitors were grouped into rooms defined by its section, allowing easier navigation and better flow of the show.

Geographically, the location in Casablanca – the location of a large majority of the textile manufacturing business in Morocco – is more logical than Marrakech. Many of the exhibitors, too, are based in Casablanca. However, the decision to move the show to Marrakech was more about the lure of the city itself and is a decision that was made to appease the wishes of the buyers and visitors to the show, who had requested a more central and easier to reach destination.

Exhibitor Said Barnici, manager of denim production company Vindi II, reinforced the decision to move the show.

“The clients expressed an interest in having it in Marrakech,” he says. It’s a beautiful, vibrant city and it’s better for leisure time if people want to have the weekend here. It’s also more workable in terms of flights. It’s further away to visit the main manufacturing spots Fez, Casablanca and Tangier, but it’s more of an international location.”

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Located on the premises of a famous racetrack circuit that’s still being used at the time of the show, the sound of distant racing cars serves as a reminder of the five-year Industrial Acceleration Project 2015-2020, organised by the Moroccan Association of the Textile and Apparel Industries (AMITH) and the National Agency for Export Promotion (Maroc Export).

The project outlines an aim to help Moroccan suppliers become vertically integrated companies. Through offering a full package manufacturing deal, suppliers can provide clients with a service that runs from initial design to fabric finishes. This is now expected from most European clients and will provide a significant advantage over competitors.

Though the five-year plan is at the beginning stages of action, Moroccan textile manufacture already shows signs of increased trade with the UK market. Even though the proportion of UK buyers at the show was significantly less than those from countries such as France, Spain and Italy, UK representation came from big name brands such as Superdry, Boohoo, Dorothy Perkins, Monsoon and Topshop.

This is a positive sign for the market, considering large UK retailers such as Marks & Spencer and Next closed their factories and ceased production here in 2011. An increased interest in Asian countries, mainly China and Bangladesh, and the poor British pound to Moroccan dirham currency value at the time deterred much of the UK textile manufacture business.

However, interest in Moroccan textile manufacture is growing as it becomes an attractive alternative to countries such as Turkey and Tunisia which have been experiencing political and economic pressure. “Recent geopolitical developments in these countries affects where clients are choosing to do business.

Stability is definitely a draw here,” says Mohammed Tazi, managing director of Maroc in Mode & Maroc Sourcing organisers AMITH. “At the time there was a UK turnover collapse: now we’ve noticed a growth due to many reasons, including currency value improvements. Companies and businesses are returning to Morocco once more.”

Manufacturing developments within the UK market are starting to come to effect. Recently, Marks & Spencer decided to re-open factories in Morocco. Tesco, too, has decided to move manufacture of its F&F clothing range here.

A multitude of fabrics from lace to knitwear were well

represented at the show, proving the diversity and strength of manufacture in the country. The denim section in particular was the driving force behind the show and attracted vast interest, especially from fast fashion brands.

Denim was not only the most popular sector of the tradeshow, but manufacture of the fabric is generally strong in the country. And with denim among the bestselling product categories in UK retail, many domestic manufacturers and suppliers see it as a route into the British fast fashion sector.

Meryem Rachdi, general manager of the Moroccan Denim Cluster, an organisation representing Moroccan denim manufacturing companies, says: “2016 will see a big push into the UK market. There are so many opportunities for trade with the fast fashion sector in the UK. Our production of denim has opened a door and we’re hoping this will translate into an increase in UK clients soon.”

The free trade agreement between Europe and Morocco certainly makes business with the country a viable option. And the move towards increased eco action puts Moroccan production more in line with what a UK client wants. Low impact dyes and controlled water temperatures are used and many projects are underway to take this further. “Currently we are working with Hassan II University of Casablanca, which is a textile school here,” says Rachdi. “We are using researchers to reduce pollution and reduce water usage. It’s a big problem in Casablanca as it’s the biggest industrial city in Morocco.”

Maroc in Mode & Maroc Sourcing exhibitor and textile producer Crossing estimates that 30 per cent of its business is currently dedicated to UK clients. Supplying UK customers such as Topshop, Next and Superdry, the company was based within the denim section of the fair. “We are pleased with how things have gone here,” says Hind Raki, merchandiser for Crossing. “We’ve been visited by our existing clients, as well as potential new ones, and have follow up meetings with a few UK buyers. Our main aim was to make connections and strengthen existing ones and I think the show is a good way to do that.”

At the end of the show, the overall mood was optimistic.

With signs of UK textile business returning to Moroccan soil, many of the suppliers here are positive that business from the UK – widely regarded as one of the most prestigious and sought-after client countries – is on the up.

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Retailer spotlight: SECOND STORE FOR LEEDS INDIE WORCESTER INDIE HOSTS WINTER SHOW Worcester Indie Stripes Fashion hosted an a/w 15 fashion show last month. The Worcester independent’s Winter Forest Fashion Show took place at local bar and restaurant The Provence, and invited guests to enjoy an evening of entertainment. The fundraising event in aid of Worcester Breast Unit showcased jewellery, clothing and hair and make-up for the festive season. After the show, the retailer continued the celebration by offering customers a 20 per cent in-store discount all weekend.

Leeds Indie Accent Clothing has launched a second store in Bradford.

The retailer – which celebrated its 30th anniversary in business last year – opened the doors of its city centre Bradford store, based within Westfield’s new The Broadway shopping centre, in November. The new branch carries Accent’s diverse portfolio of brands including Replay, Lacoste, Scotch and Soda, Swims, True Religion and Boss Kids. Martin Schneider, director of Accent, says, “We’re excited to showcase our unique customer service alongside our global brands to the people of Bradford.”

Retail Forum The latest in-store news from the industry

Web watch:

WWW. HANNAHZAKARI.CO.UK

Indie boutique Hannah Zakari is owned and run

by Rachel Lamb in Edinburgh. Inspired by her love of all things Japanese, Lamb opened the virtual store in 2004 and named the store after the Japanese word “hanazakari”, which translates to English as “blossom” or “blossoming”.

Previously featured in Grazia, Vogue and The Guardian, the accessories and clothing store has amassed a following of customers who desire individual products from niche and independent designers. Customers can shop the products from the transactional site, as well as read the blog featuring designer interviews and inspirational posts. Visitors can also access the retailer’s Pinterest and Instagram feeds, which feature a diverse offering of posts.

SALLY LONGDEN

Owner of Stick & Ribbon, Nottingham What is your current bestseller in-store?

We picked up some cashmere/wool mix ponchos from Luella Fashion which have been a great success. Priced at £75, these have flown out, and several reorders have been required. Good price point, easy to see what they are and perfect for the recent warmer weather we have experienced.

How have you found trading over the last month?

We’ve had a great few months. We are located down an arcade off the main shopping drag and we have focused attention on our signage, which has brought more footfall our way. The independent label encourages out-of-towners to stray off the high street as they are looking for something a bit different to what they can find at home.

What have you been doing to drive traffic in-store?

This season we decided not to go for our normal seasonal fashion shows, but to invite our VIPs and other customers to brand-focused evenings. We brought a few brands together and asked them to provide either goody bags or items for raffle prizes.

What’s on your agenda for the coming month?

The main focus will be on Christmas. We have arranged a few last-minute “dressing for Christmas” events to keep the momentum on evening events, which works well for us.

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Retail therapy: Share your retailing bugbears

RETAIL DESTINATION HOSTS FASHION PARTY

MANCHESTER RETAIL DESTINATION THE AVENUE PLAYED HOST TO A FASHION PARTY LAST MONTH, CELEBRATING ALL THINGS FASHION. BASED INSIDE THE OLD GRANADA STUDIOS, SPINNINGFIELDS, KEY RETAILERS INCLUDING FLANNELS AND PHILLIP STONER USED A ‘CONCEPT STORE’ SET-UP TO DISPLAY COLLECTIONS TO VISITORS. GUESTS WERE ABLE TO BROWSE THE LATEST COLLECTIONS AND ALSO PURCHASE AND TAKE AWAY ITEMS ON THE NIGHT. MODELS WERE ON SHOW THROUGHOUT THE NIGHT TO PRESENT COLLECTION PIECES WITHIN THE PARTY SPACE.

JOANNA DAVIES

Owner, Black White Denim, Wilmslow, Cheshire “My independent boutique is called Black White Denim because we invest most of our spend in black, white and denim. So, why am I constantly contacted by brands who specialise in colour and print and have clearly not done any research into my business? As well as my multi-brand boutique, I have a clothing line called BWD Basics, which I am trying to get distribution for.

Before I contact a boutique I make sure I know the name of the buyer/owner, take a look at their brand portfolio and price points to ensure my brand will be a good fit. If new brands took the time to understand my business instead of barging in with mass communication that goes to all and sundry, they’d have a much better chance of getting a response to their e-mail.”

BOUTIQUE OPENING IN KETTERING Dedicated eveningwear boutique Aimee’s opened in Kettering, Northamptonshire, last month.

Located on Victoria Street, the shop stocks brands such as Jovani, Faviana, Paparazzi Prom

by Mori Lee, Intrigue by Blush Prom and Prom Frocks. Amy Nimmo, director, says, “We will only be selling one dress of each style to ensure no-one will be wearing the same one, so we’re encouraging customers to come early to avoid the disappointment of missing out on their dream dress.”

Q&A:

Julie Michaelsen Photography

How are you celebrating in-store this Christmas?

BECKIE KINGSLEY

HANNAH CONIAM-THOMPSON

YVETTE DAVIES

ADRIANA GREEN

Owner, Ginger, Norwich

Co-owner, Belle & Bunty, London N7

Owner, Thirty Three Boutique, Lymington, Hants

Owner, Scarecrow Boutique, London N8

“We recently held our Festive Fizz shopping night, when we invited customers to come in-store for drinks, music, entertainment and shopping.

This evening launched our late-night Thursday shopping hours, which see us stay open until 8pm.”

“This Christmas we will be getting festive with plenty of mulled wine for our lovely customers, and a Meet the Designers day, where Alice and Hannah will be on hand to help customers find their perfect dress.”

“Our festive window display launched at the end of November. In the window there are lots of decorations including sparkly baubles and glitzy gift boxes and it’s a generally eye-catching display to celebrate the season. We’ve dressed the models in sparkly dresses to emphasise the party feel of the season.”

“Every year on the first Friday of December we have a late night shopping event in Crouch End with other businesses on our road. This year we had live music, free drinks and nibbles and fantastic goodie bags for our customers. It’s our way of saying thank you to all our customers and friends who support us every year.”

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E-tail Clinic

Essential e-commerce advice The expert view: How your online shop will benefit from shop aggregators In order to remain competitive, online shops need to find new ways to distribute and market their products. A very effective way to attract new customers and boost sales is to collaborate with shop aggregators. These websites or apps offer products from a multitude of e-commerce sites in a single online destination, enabling shoppers to cross-shop from a large range of products.

It’s best to work with a well-established shop aggregator.

Reach a Wider Audience Shop aggregators do not only add a new channel to your marketing mix; their existing network actually helps online retailers to build a whole new set of audiences without going through the trouble of doing it inhouse. If you focus on acquiring partners with a wide reach and a multichannel approach who aim at your core target group and core products, you can significantly reduce workload and costs. Be it the enormous reach of a shop aggregator’s website, its shopping app or its strong social media channels, the multichannel approach of well-established shop aggregators provides a unique opportunity to display your fashion products on numerous channels. Even if you don’t run your own e-commerce app or spend large budgets on social media marketing, you will reach your target group where they search for fashion inspiration – on their mobile.

Gain High Quality Traffic High quality traffic – this implies customer engagement, personalisation, emotional bonding and, as a consequence, the willingness to purchase. With the right partner you will benefit from an increase in targeted traffic and conversion rates. The precondition is a shop aggregator which provides not only lists of products, but also additional benefits for the user – unique content or services, such as user recommendations, community features, user-generated content or inspiration.

One shop aggregator which provides these benefits is the recommendation platform Stylefruits. Central to such a platform are sincere recommendations.

Users engage in interaction with other users, give each other advice and recommend their favourite products to a wider audience. This type of engagement is more authentic and trustworthy than any advertisement could be. The provision of means for user interaction or for user-generated content additionally increases the user retention. Consumers will engage emotionally and spend more time on the site – and with your products. This is good for both your sales and your brand.

Get Advice and Direction Based on the amount of data they accumulate due to their wide reach, aggregators have a better understanding of consumer patterns, trends and purchase behaviours. A well-established aggregator can offer advice to retailers and can help online retailers decide, for example, on new categories or assortments with special analysis. That is why we at Stylefruits have developed a “styletracking” tool, a business intelligence software which analyses and optimises marketing activities as well as the sales and assortments for clients in order to implement the perfect strategy for each partner shop. Acting as a partner and a consultant, experienced aggregators can help guide your online shop to a prosperous future.

Ingo Heinrich, founder and CEO, Stylefruits

Web chat: ROSIE LYNESS

Womenswear Buyer, Lambert’s Yard, Leeds www.lambertsyard.com When did you launch your website and is it transactional?

Our website has been a fully functioning, transactional site since early 2015.

What percentage of your business does your site constitute?

The percentage is increasing day on day, which is very positive. At the moment, we are on around 50:50 store sales versus online. It is our long-term goal to drive the majority of our sales through the site as we will soon have a far wider product offering.

Are you selling the same stock online as in-store?

The store is a curated version of online. As all of our fixtures are modular, we have a constantly rotating shop floor showcasing various collections throughout the season, all the while these collections are available online. It’s likely that we will have online-only brands in the not too distant future, as well as local designers with small stock holdings working on an in-store only basis.

Is your e-commerce arm growing and, if so, what is driving growth?

Now that we are more comfortable with where we are, we are starting to drive growth by honing in on what makes us different to other online retailers, defining our customer base and reaching out to them directly as a supporter of up-and-coming UK design talent.

What are your plans for the site and how would you like it to develop?

We are currently developing a multi-vendor marketplace platform, which will allow vendors to operate remotely in terms of managing the product online, stock holding and fulfilling orders all under the umbrella of Lambert’s Yard.

15.5%

Online parcel volume growth in October – the highest rate recorded for the month of October since 2011

*SOURCE: IMRG

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Names and Numbers Atelier Gardeur 020 7580 6244 www.atelier-gardeur.com Betty Barclay 029 2062 7736 www.bettybarclay.com Blendshe 0203 432 6387 www.blendcompany.com Brax 07768 762298 www.brax.com Frank Lyman 0141 204 0699 www.franklyman.com Freddy Jeans 020 7702 0203 www.freddy.com Garcia 0203 432 6387 www.garciajeans.com Glamorous 0161 819 2229 www.glamorous.com JQ 020 7702 0203 www.jqjeans.eu Lucky Eyes London 07572 096770 www.luckyeyes.co.uk Little Mistress 020 3617 7668 www.little-mistress.com Mac 0207 6367111 www.mac-jeans.com Michele 020 7636 4207 www.michele-fashion.de Meltin’ Pot 07833 775641 www.meltinpot.com Mos Mosh 0777 933 2345 www.mosmosh.com NYDJ 020 7323 6652 www.nydj.co.uk Paper Dolls 020 3617 7668 www.little-mistress.com/paper-dolls People Tree 020 7042 8920 www.peopletree.co.uk Relish 020 3432 6385 www.relish.it Ruby Shoo 01992 769612 www.rubyshoo.com Samsoe & Samsoe 0203 137 3901 www.samsoe.com Salsa 020 3432 6385 www.salsastore.com Scotch & Soda 0203 137 3901 www.scotch-soda.com Silvian Heach 020 3432 6385 www.silvianheach.com Wizard 0800 0837 472 www.wizardjeans.com Zandra Rhodes 020 3006 3994 www.zandrarhodes.com

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Next issue AUTUMN / WINTER 16 EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT THIS SEASON’S STYLES, TRENDS, BRANDS AND FASHION NEWS. GOING DUTCH CONTEMPORARY WOMENSWEAR BRAND TRAMONTANA IN THE SPOTLIGHT. THE FASHION SCOOP A COMPREHENSIVE PREVIEW OF JANUARY’S BOUTIQUE SHOW AT THE SAATCHI GALLERY.

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The Last Word with...

Stacey Wood Head of womenswear, Zone Two Agency What’s the naughtiest thing you’ve ever done?

I’m the middle child – do I need to say any more?

What are the top three things on your bucket list?

I would love to launch my own brand and one day live in LA. If I can tick those two dreams off I’ll die a happy girl.

What’s your favourite tipple?

I had a lot of fun in my earlier years; now I would rather have a nice cup of tea with a massive piece of cake from Franzè & Evans on Redchurch Street.

What could you cope better with, no internet or no mobile for the day?

I would love it if I didn’t have either. I miss the days when friends and family would just pop around on the off-chance you were in. Or arranging to meet at a certain place at a certain time and never having the opportunity to cancel. Life was so much easier then.

Name: Stacey Wood Job title: Head of womenswear, Zone Two Agency From: Harrogate Lives: London

What’s your happiest childhood memory?

I come from a pretty big family and have five sisters. When we were old enough my parents would take us all to Corfu where my elder sisters would be constantly chatted up by older Greek men, which was absolutely hilarious for the rest of us.

I remember endless sun-kissed days spent running in and out of the sea with my parents looking on, both relaxed and happy.

What song sums you up?

Bitch by Meredith Brooks. Like the character in the song, I’m a little bit of everything all rolled into one.

Would you rather rewind life or pause it?

Neither. I prefer to always look forward. I’m always looking for ways to free up time to see more of my friends and family. Time goes by so quickly. I never believed my grandfather when he used to tell me that when I was younger.

What makes you laugh?

Just about anything. According to my boyfriend I apparently find the oddest things absolutely side-splitting. The more stupid, the better.

What’s your guilty pleasure?

I have a slight weakness when it comes to cake and have been known to scoff three slices of delicious courgette and lemon cake from Franzè & Evans in a row.

What’s your secret talent?

I remember absolutely everything.

What achievement are you most proud of?

Ask me again in six months time.

If you didn’t do your current job, what would you be doing?

I would love to create and launch my own premium fashion brand.