A FRESH LOOK AT KIDS’ FASHION, FOOTWEAR AND LIFESTYLE PRODUCTS
Incorporating
SCHOOLWEAR BUYER:
STAR MATERIAL The winner and highly commended finalists of the Rising Star Awards TALKING POINT Farfetch launches a kidswear division TIMELESS FASHION The latest on Rachel Riley’s eponymous label
www.cwb-online.co.uk March/April 2016 Issue 99 £9.95
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CONTENTS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
CONT ENTS:
12
24
22
14 REGULARS
FEATURES
SCHOOLWEAR
05: Comment
16: Twenty Questions Q&A with Arancha Heredero and Kirsty Cunningham, co-owners of Windmill and winners of the Best Footwear Store in the CWB Independent Retail Awards 2015
35: News
06: News 08: NCWA 10: Open for business Legal and business advice plus industry opinion 12: Retail Therapy Store profiles and retail news 14: Brands to Watch Editor’s pick of brands 30: Laura loves The coolest products for kids 31: Style guide Wellington boots 42: Talking point: Stephanie Horton, chief marketing officer, Farfetch
18: Star Material The winner and highly commended finalists of this season’s Rising Star Awards 22: Spanish Fashion Reigns CWB spotlights some Spanish brands currently making an impression on the UK 24: Timeless Fashion Rachel Riley on her eponymous childrenswear label
36: BMB sports a new face Blue Max Banner’s (BMB) new group sales and marketing director, Laura Thomas, discusses her appointment and how she plans to apply her industry knowledge to the BMB business 38: The strength of independence David Luke MD Kathryn Shuttleworth on the ever-changing landscape of the schoolwear industry, the government influences on the sector and her strategy for David Luke in light of these developments
26: Fancy Footwork CWB’s pick of footwear taken from the a/w 16 edition of Bubble London 28: The Look of autumn/winter 16 CWB selects its favourite fashion themes from the season
Cover: Outside the Lines 07841 249995 www.outside-the-lines.co.uk MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 03
t n e d n e Indep REtail Awa rds
•2016•
COM MENT: I don’t feel I’m alone in thinking that this season had a decidedly different feeling to it – in a good way. —
All of the a/w 16 trade shows I attended this season, both in the UK and overseas, had the same air of positivity; more exhibitors were taking orders, aisles were busier with buyers, and there was a distinct sense of optimism. The collections showcased were equally strong, with a good helping of fresh, new launches. For a round-up of our favourite a/w 16 themes, which include peter pan collars, metallics and space-inspired creations, check out our trends report, The Look of Autumn/Winter 2016, on page 28. Another notable development this season was the increase in Spanish childrenswear labels investing in the UK; Bubble London, for instance, played host to around 30 Spanish brands. On speaking to UK agents of Spanish labels, there is a definite consensus that popularity is steadily increasing, although the reasons behind this trend are a little less clear. Some brands are benefiting from media coverage in association with the Royal Family, with the influence of the Royals’ Spanish nanny clear as Prince George and Princess Charlotte are seen sporting Spanish labels in recent official photography. High quality, handmade finishes, and a return to classic childrenswear design are other suggestions for the increase in demand. For an insight into some of the key Spanish brands making an impression on our market, see our feature Spanish Fashion Reigns on page 22. With this being one of our footwear focused issues, we also bring you the footwear brand debuts and latest collection
Editor Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Contributors Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Editorial assistant Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Designers Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales executive Fiona Warburton fiona.warburton@ras-publishing.com Subscriptions data@ras-publishing.com Head of childrenswear Lindsay Hoyes lindsay@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics/printing Image Data Group Ltd 01482 652323
CWB is published 6 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 www.cwb-online.co.uk Copyright© 2016 CWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.
COMMENT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
developments from Bubble London on page 26, as well as a selection of wellington boots in our Style Guide feature on page 31. For insight into how children’s footwear independents’ trade has fared over a/w 15, and for their views on the forthcoming season, head to our Open for Business opinion piece on page 10. In schoolwear, the theme of this issue seems to be one of change and evolution. We have an interview with Laura Thomas – the recently appointed group sales and marketing director at Blue Max Banner – on her new role and plans for the business’s sportswear offer. We also hear the views of David Luke’s MD, Kathryn Shuttleworth, on the changing landscape of the schoolwear sector and government influences on the industry. The next issue of CWB is June/July, and it will include our first look at the s/s 17 season as well as the launch of the CWB Independent Retail Awards 2016. Until then, to stay updated on all the latest industry and Awards news, visit cwb-online.co.uk or follow CWB on Twitter and Facebook. Laura Turner Editor
CWB is a joint venture between RAS Publishing and the National Childrenswear Association.
A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication CWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include WWB and MWB. RAS Publishing is an ITE Group company.
MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 05
NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
CWB NEWS: HOLLY HASTIE EXTENDS AGE RANGE
BUBBLE BUMP TO LAUNCH FOR S/S 17
Girlswear label Holly Hastie is increasing its age range to cover baby through to teen, offering the collection from three months to 14 years. The British brand specialises in party dresses and separates teamed with cotton cashmere knitwear. “Many of our customers wanted the s/s 16 range in baby sizes, particularly in the USA and UK,” says brand designer Holly Hastie. “Because so many customers in the Middle East and Japan wanted to place orders in larger sizes, up to early teen, we did a special production run just for them. We then found other customers wanted the new sizes, too.” —
The s/s 17 edition of Bubble London on 19-20 June will see the launch of Bubble Bump, a showcase of maternitywear, nursingwear, nursing lingerie, accessories and newborn nursery goods. This latest addition offers maternity and nursery brands the chance to present their collections alongside Bubble London’s existing line-up of children’s fashion, accessories, gift and homeware labels. For buyers, it represents an opportunity to tap into the ‘bump pound’. Brands already signed up include organic label Frugi and lingerie label Mumba Designs. Bubble Bump exhibitors will be able to choose from a range of stand options, including gallery bays, showrooms and POP rails. Brands interested in joining Bubble Bump should contact Liz Pilgrim on 020 8735 0855, or email liz@maternitybuyer.com. —
WIDESPREAD GROWTH FOR YOUNG SOLES London children’s footwear label Young Soles has key new partnerships for its s/s 16 collection. New accounts with European retailers include Denmark’s international flagship of modern living, design and furnishings, Illums Bolighus, and France’s iconic department store Le Bon Marché. S/s 16 also sees accounts in the new territories of Sweden, Poland and Lithuania; additional stockists in Switzerland, Germany and Spain, and six new partners in the UK, including Alex and Alexa. Elsewhere the brand is expanding its presence in the US and Australia and has added a stockist in Saudi Arabia for the first time. Young Soles’ s/s 16 collection includes nine new styles and larger sizes up to a UK 7.5 (Euro 40) in certain styles. —
TRIUMPHANT SEASON FOR MODA FOOTWEAR
FURTHER GROWTH FOR ORGANIC TEXTILES The organic market saw continued steady growth of 4.9 per cent in 2015 according to the latest Soil Association 2016 Organic Market Report. This is the third year of consecutive growth for the UK organic sector, now worth £1.95bn. In particular, sales of Soil Association certified organic textiles – certified to the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) – are seeing runaway growth at 16 per cent, with the UK market for these products now worth £21.6m. “This is a hugely exciting time for the organic sector, with the market set to break through the £2 billion mark in 2016,” says Martin Sawyer, chief executive of Soil Association Certification. “Thanks to the growth of online, it is now possible for retailers to connect consumers with the broadest choice of organic products.” —
Birmingham trade show Moda Footwear, which includes dedicated children’s footwear zone Mini Moda, ended on a high following three strong days of trading last month. The exhibition, which introduced a new format for a/w 16, was praised by visitors and exhibitors alike for its upbeat and lively atmosphere. “The show seemed so much more buoyant in general,” says Victor Russell, owner of independent footwear store Russell’s of Omagh in County Tyrone. “We liked the new layout and were impressed with the fact that footwear was across a bigger area this time around. We saw the brands we needed to see and were inspired to place orders on new collections.” For the brands themselves, the show’s new layout created an inspiring and relevant platform from which to launch their a/w 16 collections to the trade. “We were really pleased with our positioning within Moda Footwear and achieved the sales along with a lot of new accounts and new interest,” says Simon Mabey, UK sales manager at Hush Puppies. “We would like to return with a bit more of a bolstered presence next season.” Moda Footwear will now look to build upon its success with its forthcoming edition on 7-9 August. —
START-RITE APPOINTS NEW CHIEF EXECUTIVE Ian Watson has joined the Board of Start-rite’s parent company, James Southall, as its new chief executive. Watson succeeds Peter Lamble, who stepped down as the company’s joint chairman after 20 years and now holds a key non-executive role on the James Southall Board. “I’m delighted to be joining a business steeped in heritage and with such a premium brand position,” says Watson. “I look forward to utilising my expertise to build on the successful work of Peter.” For the past eight years, Watson has been European MD of Britax Childcare based in Ulm, Germany, and has a wide experience of international brands and markets. —
MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 06
NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
MEET THE MANUFACTURER SECURES HEADLINE SPONSOR
UK CONSUMER SATISFACTION INSIGHT New research commissioned by online savings provider Webloyalty has revealed most UK consumers are unsatisfied with one or more aspects of their retail experience. More than half of all shoppers use a greater number of retailers than five years ago, with 61 per cent of consumers shopping around more for clothing and 58 per cent for footwear. Three quarters of consumers are unsatisfied with at least one aspect of their shopping experience, with service (53 per cent) and product range (47 per cent) beating price (36 per cent) into third place. Rudeness from staff (57 per cent), poor quality items (44 per cent) and dirty stores (43 per cent) are the top three reasons given for considering defecting to an alternative retailer. Online shopping proved the silver lining, with 71 per cent of respondents reporting themselves satisfied or highly satisfied with the online offering of the retailers they use. —
Meet the Manufacturer, a conference and sourcing event for British manufacturers of clothing, textiles and leather goods, has secured Segura as its headline sponsor for this year’s event in May. Segura provides software that enables businesses across a range of industries, including textile manufacturing and retail, to understand, monitor and control their supply chains. “Segura’s innovative and transparent approach to supply chain issues makes it the perfect partner for Meet the Manufacturer, which is the platform for leading industry figures to come together to support UK manufacturing,” says Kate Hills, Meet the Manufacturer’s CEO and founder. “This comes at a time when there’s an ever-growing enthusiasm and passion for reinstating Britain as the world centre for fashion and textile production and we look forward to working together.” Meet the Manufacturer takes place on 25-26 May at The Old Truman Brewery, London. —
HUNTER APPOINTS NEW CEO
PUMA X SUPERMAN
Vincent Wauters has been appointed chief executive officer of Hunter. Wauters joined the British heritage brand on 1 March from Arc’teryx, having previously been president of the premium outdoor and lifestyle brand headquartered in Vancouver. “I am honoured to join such an iconic brand,” says Wauters. “The combination of heritage, performance and fashion is what makes Hunter so unique. What has been accomplished in the last few years is remarkable, and I look forward to building on this, realising Hunter’s global potential and setting the path towards an ambitious and inspiring brand future.” —
Global sports brand Puma has joined forces with Warner Bros Consumer Products, on behalf of DC Entertainment, to create a kids’ collection inspired by Superman for boys and girls aged 2-12 years. The Puma X Superman collaboration includes classic footwear styles – such as the Suede, Carson Runner and Cabana Racer – in mini versions available in Superman’s suit colourways and featuring the iconic ‘S-Shield’ on the reverse. Also available are accessories, including the Cape Backpack, a range of apparel and graphic T-shirts for boys, Supergirl styles in pink, grey and red for girls and Superbaby sets for infants. —
NEWS IN BRIEF
— Canadian footwear brand Kamik has appointed Hej International as its distributor for the UK and Ireland, a move that will see the brand’s children’s outdoor footwear made available to UK and Irish consumers for the first time. As well as presenting Kamik to its network of specialist retailers, Hej International will support the brand’s UK and Irish launch with a comprehensive marketing and brand development campaign, including PR, social media and attendance at key UK trade shows.
MEET TAO & FRIENDS Tao & Friends is a new London label of childrenswear catering for three months to six years. Currently offering around 40 pieces per collection with plans to expand in the future, the brand focuses on everyday basics, including baby rompers, T-shirts, sweatshirts and sweatpants. Its point of difference is in its creative animal prints and its dedication to charity, with a fixed amount of ¤1 per item sold being donated to chosen childrens’ charities around the world. The first such charity is the Winnicott Foundation, which supports London neonatal units for sick and premature babies. —
DADDY PROOF SETS ITS SIGHTS ON THE UK Dutch organic and Fairtrade babywear label Daddy Proof is seeking a distributor to bring its brand concept to the UK market. Daddy Proof provides colour coordinated poppers on its garments, which allow the fastenings to be quickly and easily matched up with the minimum of fuss. A bunny logo also features on all items to enable parents to quickly determine the front and back of garments. Other design highlights include fold down hand mitts to prevent babies from scratching. The Daddy Proof collection, which is made from certified organic cotton, comprises babygros, bodysuits, trousers, cardigans and hats. —
— British unisex lifestyle brand Lala & Bea for 0-12 years is launching a mix-and-match loungewear range for 2016. Made from 100 per cent organic cotton, the loungewear offer consists of long pants, lounge shorts and both long and short sleeve T-shirts. As with all of its products, Lala & Bea’s loungewear is entirely made in Britain; from the labels to the fabric knitting, printing and manufacturing. Lala & Bea also offers organic skincare and children’s accessories.
— Geox has revealed a 6.1 per cent increase in turnover for the 2015 financial year. Despite footwear accounting for 89.9 per cent of total sales, the brand continued to put a focus on its strong outerwear offering, which amounted to €102.6m in total turnover. Sales in Europe, which accounted for 43 per cent of sales, increased by 4.6 per cent to €375.6m, compared to €359.3m in 2014.
MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 07
NCWA NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
NCWA NEWS: The latest news from the National Childrenswear Association EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR’S COMMENT: It was all over so quickly. The set-up on Saturday proceeded at its normal pace, but from the moment the doors opened on Sunday, time accelerated until in a flash we were breaking down the stands on Monday evening. What a great show Bubble London was. So often, one day of an exhibition may be better than another. Independent retailers may come out in force on one day, but the department stores may be less visible on another (or vice versa). The morning may be buzzing, but the afternoon may be quiet. Some exhibitors may be happy, others may be downright miserable. We have all been at such shows and recognise the signs. In the run-up to Bubble London, I picked up some nervousness. Would the ‘wobble’ in China undermine confidence? Would the possibility of ‘Brexit’ deter foreign buyers? Would the designs and colours on show be sufficient to entice visitors onto a stand and persuade them to place an order? Reassurance came quickly, as a steady stream of visitors arrived on Sunday morning. The new area on the ground floor, POP, was the first to be attacked. With its simple but attractive single rails, the merchandise was easy to appreciate. As visitors moved from the ground floor to the mezzanine and to the gallery, it was evident that Sunday morning at least was going to be good. As the day progressed, the buzz in the aisles was all the more evident. Sunday became Monday (was it true that at least one stand on Sunday evening was still taking orders as the BDC was closing?) and yet more visitors arrived. Buyers from top stores were spotted. As I toured the show, the most regular complaint was that exhibitors had not been able to sit down all day or had had no chance to get lunch, even a cup of coffee. The regular comment was that all the visitors were serious, wanted to buy and had placed orders. As for the visitors, they were cramming as much as they could into their diaries. The programme of seminars was a great attraction, but let us not forget the designs and colours on display. They were stunning and the mix of returning exhibitors interspersed with new brands kept everyone busy. I know that much work will have been going on since Bubble London to confirm all those orders. All the evidence, however, points to the exhibition having been one of the best in recent years. ITE Moda is to be congratulated. The queries we dealt with on the NCWA stand were as varied as usual. I was, however, struck by the number of questions about exporting. My advice is simple: do not attempt to export until you have worked out your strategy and your terms and conditions and put all the necessary paperwork in place. Be sure you have decided whether CIF or FOB applies. (Do you know the difference?) Will you insist on payment upfront on the basis of a pro forma invoice? What currency are your prices in? Have you checked all the labelling rules and other regulations in the countries concerned? Selling abroad can be good business, but you must be prepared, or you may well end up getting your fingers burnt. NCWA can offer you valuable advice and NCWA members can attend seminars organised by the UK Fashion and Textile Association on such subjects as how to exhibit overseas. Do contact Michelle Payne at NCWA if you want to find out more. Visit our website, www. ncwa.co.uk, on which all members have a free page (which can be linked to your own website). Based in Bloomsbury at 3 Queen Square, London WC1N 3AR, our telephone number is 020 7843 9488 and our e-mail address is enquiries@ncwa.co.uk. Elizabeth P Fox, Executive Director
NCWA Council: Chairman: DAVID HULL Agent Vice Chairman: VIRGINIA ROSS Pollyanna Retailer Imm Past Chairman: SHARON BEARDSWORTH Emile et Rose Manufacturer Treasurer: DAVID BURGESS David Luke Ltd Manufacturer
Executive Director: ELIZABETH FOX
www.theleveret.com The Leveret was established in 2012 as a bricks and mortar venture. However, its fully transactional website offers garments for boys and girls aged 0-8 years, stocking the likes of Frugi, Boboli, Kissy Kissy and Toffee Moon. Products range from pyjamas and babygros to knitwear, jumpers and outerwear. Visitors to the website can also shop the range of soft toys, books, hair accessories and even a range of magical fairy doors by British lifestyle and gift brand Not Before Tea. A range of delivery options including click and collect, next day and international are available, making it easier for the retailer’s new and existing customers to shop online. —
MINT BABY & KIDS www.mintbabyandkids.com The current owners of Mint Baby & Kids, Misi and Felix Amos, took over the reins in 2014, though the store based in Houston, Texas, was established in 2007. Stocking a selection of children’s clothing, gifts and accessories, Mint Baby & Kids carries key brands including Kissy Kissy, Hucklebones, KicKee Pants, Mayoral, Chloé, Mima, Little Giraffe, Stokke, Sarah Louise, Hugo Boss, Billieblush, Billybandit, Bratt Décor and Catimini. During 2016 the retailer plans to update the website with a new section, Minty Cuties, whereby visitors can post pictures of their children wearing items from the store. —
Make your voice heard
Council Members: MARK BARNETT Barnett Agencies Agent NUALA MCKENNA Nuala McKenna Agencies Agent DIANE SHAW Agent SARAH TAYLOR Agent MALCOLM TRAVIS Travis Designs Manufacturer RACHEL RILEY Rachel Riley Manufacturer JILLIAN PETRIE Young Trend Retailer DAVID PARKER Baby Melanie Retailer President: KEN SCATES Marketing consultant Vice Presidents: LESLEY FALLON Retail consultant JACKIE COOK Retail consultant
THE LEVERET
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NCWA NEWS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
REBRAND OF LITTLE DARLINGS CHRISTENING
ZUMA UP FOR BOOK AWARD
The Little Darlings Christening brand has rebranded as Little Darlings Ceremony to encompass the variety of occasions, such as communions and weddings, it now produces for. The rebrand has been marked with a new logo together with some new designs added to the current collection of dresses, heirloom robes, boyswear and accessories. Highlights include a new heirloom robe in honour of the christening of Princess Charlotte, which pays homage by using delicate materials and laces in oyster and blush tones similar to the original gown. Visit www.mafana.co.uk to view the full collections. —
Children’s brand Zuma the Dog is a finalist in The Wishing Shelf Independent Book Awards for its book titled Zuma Likes to Dig. News that the brand’s first picture book in the pre-school series, The Adventures of Zuma the Dog, was a finalist coincides with the launch of its fourth book, Zuma the Dog: The Dinosaur Guy. “I am delighted and honoured that we have been chosen as a finalist for this award,” says brand owner Samantha Morgan-Bertish. “It means so much to me that my work and dog character, Zuma, is enjoyed by so many children.” Books for the award were read and judged by children in eight UK primary and secondary schools. Winners will be announced on 1 April. Zuma the Dog launched in 2009, inspired by Morgan-Bertish’s family pet. In recent months, it has secured licensing deals including a clothing range and an online TV show. —
ANGEL’S FACE SWIMWEAR 2016 Founded in 2007, girlswear brand Angel’s Face is acclaimed for its tutu skirts, which are available in over 30 colours and range from infant through to adult sizes. The success of the tutus has enabled the brand to expand and offer a comprehensive girlswear collection, including a new 2016 swimwear collection for 1-11 years, which combines glamorous 50s beach style with factor 50+ UV sun protection. Design highlights of the fully lined swimwear include bows and soft ruffles. The rash tops, meanwhile, are designed to be matched and contrasted with the swimsuits and bikinis and feature frill-capped shoulders and the brand’s hallmark angel wings on the back. Colours include coral, jade, neon pink, purple, blue, orange and magenta. —
AFFENZAHN SCOOPS GOLD AWARD
NEW MARKETS FOR LILLY + SID British childrenswear brand Lilly + Sid has announced significant expansion plans for the new season. Following on from its successful launch in the Far East, the brand is now moving its attentions closer to home via a partnership with Amsterdam based Björn Agency. The initial focus is on Benelux markets for the a/w 16 collection, growing to additional territories for s/s 17. “This is a really exciting time for us,” says brand co-founder Emma Hassan. “Working with Björn Agency allows us to remain focused on our UK growth plans whilst establishing ourselves in new markets overseas. It is great to see there is such an interest in UK design.” —
NEWS IN BRIEF
UK manufacturer William Turner & Son took to Bubble London for the first time this season to launch the new sustainable and eco-friendly children’s bag range, Affenzahn. The animal character bags captured the imagination of buyers as well as parenting website My Baba, who awarded Affenzahn Gold in the Favourite Design category of its My Baba Bubble London Awards. “It was a brilliant first experience exhibiting at Bubble,” says Andrew Smith, sales director at William Turner & Son. “We didn’t quite know what to expect, but we were really impressed with how fun and smooth sailing it was and we were thrilled to receive such a warm response to the collection. We’re very excited to be the exclusive UK distributor for such a fantastic range.” Created from recycled materials, Affenzahn bags are available in two sizes (0-3 years and 4-8 years) and are designed to encourage play and help refine cognitive abilities. —
– Liverpool based Ross Agencies has been appointed UK agent for Italian childrenswear brand Bufi. Established since 1972, Bufi offers a complete collection for 0-14 years, with a special focus on occasionwear. The brand’s ranges include Newborn, Baby, Baptism, Kids, Chic for girls and Michelangelo for boys.
ADEN + ANAIS X DISNEY BABY Aden + anais is launching a Disney-inspired collection in June. The limited edition Disney Baby collaboration, which launches across Europe for s/s 16, will comprise 100 per cent cotton muslin products across the label’s most popular styles featuring exclusive Disney illustrations. “Disney is such an innovative brand, always looking to push its creativity to the next level and strive to create something beyond the ordinary,” says aden + anais co-founder Raegan Moya Jones. “It is wonderful that their vision has extended to aden + anais.” The collaboration includes iconic prints from Disney characters including Winnie the Pooh, Bambi and The Jungle Book. The products will be sold through aden + anais retailers throughout Europe and through the aden + anais website. —
– Solobi Agency has been appointed UK agent of Spanish childrenswear label Canada House - Republic of Kids. Founded in 2003, Solobi is a well-established UK agency, whose brand portfolio, in addition to Canada House – Republic of Kids, includes Mini A Ture, Bora Bora Kids and Toffee Moon.
– The UK Fashion and Textile Association (UKFT) will present a seminar on how to source and manage production effectively on Wednesday 6 April from 2pm-5pm at 3 Queen Square, London, WC1N 3AR. An interactive session to provide an understanding of sampling, production and quality control procedures will feature. More information and a booking form can be found at www.ukft.org.
MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 09
BUSINESS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
Open for BUSINESS Bringing you straight-talking legal and business advice. LAURA MONRO is an associate and STEPHEN SIDKIN a partner at Fox Williams LLP www.agentlaw.co.uk www.fashionlaw.co.uk
WHEN A TRADING RELATIONSHIP AMOUNTS TO A DISTRIBUTORSHIP Does the nature of the relationship really matter? Well a recent judgment of a Spanish Court of Appeal brings home again how trading relationships can morph into a distributorship arrangement and the consequences which can follow. In this case, the parties had a relationship which lasted almost four years. No written agreement was in place. In deciding the nature of the relationship, the Court of Appeal concluded that the relationship between the parties was on the basis of an unwritten distributorship agreement in contrast to a succession of purchase agreements. Various factors were taken into account, including: • the exclusivity of a particular geographical area; • the duration of the relationship; • continuity in the provision of products; • the fact that once the relationship had ended, a new company was appointed as distributor of the products; and • the fact that the manufacturer provided labels for the products. Whilst ultimately it was decided that the distributor had been acting in breach of the distributorship agreement, had this not been the case the Spanish distributor would have been entitled to compensation from the manufacturer on termination. This case follows on from other judgments of the English court and the European Court of Justice over the past few years where a finding that a distributorship agreement was in place meant that the supplier was in breach of a failure to give proper notice. In a 2009 judgment it was decided that there was a distributorship agreement and that it was an implied term that the distributorship agreement should be terminable on reasonable notice. The court further decided, on the facts of the case, that the proper period of notice which should have been given was nine months. As no such period of notice had been given, the distributor had a claim for damages against the supplier for the loss of such nine-month
notice period. The distributor was entitled to compensation under its national law. In 2013 The European Court decided that the trading relationship between the parties amounted to an unwritten distributorship agreement. The distributor was based in Belgium where the national law provides protection to distributors on termination. As such, following termination of the relationship, the distributor sought an order for payment of compensation by the supplier under Belgian law. The problem of a morphing trading relationship can be compounded by the existence and use (or lack thereof) of the supplier’s standard terms and conditions of sale. Such terms and conditions may provide that nothing in the supply of goods by the supplier to the purchaser shall constitute a distributorship agreement. This is a good start. But the English courts will be concerned to establish what has happened in practice. Furthermore the supplier’s failure to use standard terms and conditions of sale – or to use them properly – can put the supplier in a double bind insofar as: • a distributorship agreement can exist without there being in place standard terms and conditions of sale; and • the lack of such standard terms and conditions of sale is likely to leave the supplier exposed on a number of issues including retention of title and limitation of liability for defective goods. Ultimately these judgments highlight the risk faced by suppliers that a trading customer may over time be found to be acting as distributor and the unintended consequences which can follow. © Fox Williams LLP 2016
DAN WAGNER m-commerce expert and founder and CEO of Powa Technologies, a UK technology company specialising in commerce, m-commerce and e-commerce services. HOW TRADITIONAL RETAILERS CAN REMAIN COMPETITIVE WITH THEIR ONLINE RIVALS Research from the British Retail Consortium (BRC) shows a clear and expected increase in the smartphone as a purchasing platform. It is promising to see that international shoppers are a big part of this, with many browsing for UK brands on their mobile device. According to Google and the BRC, apparel and beauty enjoyed the biggest rise of search volumes on mobile devices, between 41 per cent and 51 per cent for the final quarter of 2015. This makes it clear that m-commerce is continuing its expansion and is a platform that consumers want. Further research from Google explains that over half of the searches during peak periods came from mobile devices, proving that offering a true omnichannel approach, with a suitable m-commerce platform, is what consumers are looking for. Traditional retailers are not necessarily doomed. They can transform their offering by bringing together a customer’s in-store and online experience, reaching out to consumers on their mobiles as they walk past a store, for instance, and enabling them to buy instantly on their smartphone. Today’s retail sales show that despite the growth in online retailing, still only 12.8 per cent of sales are internet purchases – the store retains its appeal. Even Amazon is recognising the revolutionary potential of combining bricksand-mortar stores with online infrastructure; it announced plans last year to open its first store in Seattle. However, traditional retailers must act now to embrace the disruptive technology that will keep them ahead of their online rivals. www.powa.com
MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 10
BUSINESS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
Three footwear retailers evaluate how a/w 15 has been for them, and share their thoughts about the season ahead. — ALISON DEWHURST Owner, Shooligans, Harrogate and Skipton, North Yorkshire
How has trade fared for you this autumn/ winter? Trade for the autumn/winter has been quite tough. The weather didn’t get cold until late winter meaning people held off until the sales to buy their boots, and with all the rain and flooding there were days when people were definitely not out shopping. All the mild and wet weather meant we sold more wellies and less high end leather or warm-lined products. Is there a particular style or trend that has sold well recently? A big trend that we have noticed for both boys and girls of all ages has been the Chelsea boot, and I can see that continuing for a/w 16; we will definitely be keeping our shelves stocked with lots of these styles. A lot of customers are buying similar fashions for their children as to what they wear themselves. Biker style boots with buckle details for girls and smart leather styles for the boys. Have customer buying habits altered in any way this year? I think more and more people are looking for value for money. People are definitely still very cautious of their spending and tend to want a pair of shoes to cover many purposes. Are you feeling optimistic about spring/ summer? The last few summers have seen a move away from summery sandal type styles to pumps and lightweight trainer style shoes. We have altered our buying to reflect this so that we have what people are looking for in our stores. So far the reaction to the early spring deliveries has been very positive.
HELEN BAKER Owner, Stepping Stones Shoes, Ashbourne, Derbyshire
How has trade fared for you this autumn/ winter? It’s been our best ever a/w season, despite the lack of snow. Autumn got off to an early start as September turned cool, and the only blip was in November when Black Friday frenzy seemed to take over briefly. We’re on the edge of the Peak District, so practical and warm shoes and boots are always needed here. Which brands have been your bestsellers? Geox, Bobux and Primigi are three very popular European brands which combine great quality with good prices. We also sell an English handmade brand called Ickle Shooz, which are beautifully crafted shoes for little ones. Have customer buying habits altered in any way this year? As the economy grows, so we have seen customers making more multiple purchases in store. Online sales have grown too, but the personal service given with measuring and fitting can’t be beaten. It’s so important for children’s feet to be in well-fitting footwear as they grow. What are you buying into for a/w 16? Boots that combine style with comfort are always bestsellers. A waterproof guarantee such as Gore-Tex is a definite advantage. We love colour, so it’s great to see some lovely new choices in the ranges offered in addition to the safe, neutral options. Are you feeling optimistic about spring/ summer? Definitely. We’re forecast a good summer this year so we’re looking forward to everyone’s thoughts on the canvas and sandal styles. There are some fantastic bright colours and designs in this year’s range. It’s always fun to choose different window displays to suit the time of year, so we’re starting to plan our spring and holiday themes.
KATE BOUVERIE Owner, The Elves and the Shoemaker, Canterbury, Kent
How has trade fared for you this autumn/ winter? It hasn’t been the busiest of seasons because of the warm weather, so sales of winter boots have been disappointing, though business has been ticking over. What’s sold well recently? Ricosta, Bobux, and Petasil have been strong as always. Some Geox and Primigi styles have also sold very well. Ankle boots, particularly the Chelsea boot style have been popular. The softness and flexibility of Bobux shoes appeals to parents of small children. The traditional, classic, stitch-down style of Petasil has also been very popular. I think parents like it as it reminds them of their childhood shoes. And in general, people are buying fewer snow boots. What are you buying into for a/w 16? I think we will be buying more ankle boots and classic styles and colours that work yearround, as well as some fun, bright colours. How do you set your business apart from competitors? By offering a totally child-friendly shop, a very personal and individual service, top product knowledge, as well as selling a wide variety of interesting, fun, well-made and comfortable shoes which fit well. Are you feeling optimistic about spring/ summer? Yes, I do feel optimistic. We have some gorgeous new s/s shoes in store, from great brands which we know our customers love as much as we do. And I think we are all ready for a bit of colour in our lives. We just need a little sunshine now.
MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 11
RETAIL | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
RETAIL THERAPY We reveal our favourite independent boutiques as well as news and store events from the world of childrenswear retail.
HARRODS 87-135 Brompton Road, London SW1X 7XL From humble beginnings as a grocer and tea merchant in 1834, today, Harrods is at the forefront of luxury retail. The lavish eight-floor Knightsbridge store encompasses everything from haute couture to homeware, with more than 330 departments, nearly 30 eateries and premier services that include By Appointment Personal Shopping, Harrods Bank and Gold Bullion. Guided by its philosophy ‘anything is possible’, Harrods continues to push boundaries and reinvent. The most recent development in January saw the first phase launch of the retailer’s new Mini Superbrands concept in its fourth-floor childrenswear department. Completely transformed, the first room houses newly designed boutiques from Dior, Gucci and Loro Piana, providing shoppers with an array of childrenswear styles from each of the brands. Loro Piana’s boutique, in particular, is one of a kind. Harrods is the first department store in the world to launch a standalone childrenswear boutique for the label, carrying the full collection from baby gifting through to toys and childrenswear. Gucci, meanwhile, has created an entirely bespoke shop fit for the department designed by its new in-house creative team. The ‘World of Gucci Kids’ offers the brand’s collections of clothing and accessories for both children and babies. Finally, spanning 2,000 sq ft, Dior’s new children’s boutique is the largest of its kind. The space features clothing for all ages, from babywear to childrenswear, along with the season’s must-haves in footwear and accessories. Soft grey furnishings complete the area, providing a comfortable and relaxing atmosphere. As part of Harrods’ redevelopment of its childrenswear department, three further Mini Superbrands rooms are scheduled to open throughout 2016, with the concept due to complete by autumn. www.harrods.com MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 12
RETAIL | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
LITTLE GOODY NEW SHOES 64 Bridge Street, Ramsbottom, Bury When the owners of a Ramsbottom children’s shoe shop retired in June 2014 after 26 years in business, Little Goody New Shoes stepped up to satisfy demand for good quality and professionally fitted children’s shoes. Opening that October and managed by Lisa Coulborn, Little Goody New Shoes stocks a number of brands supplied by its predecessor, with key collections including Ricosta, Geox, Primigi, Richter, Lelli Kelly, Babybotte and Toughees. Services offered include free checking, measuring and fitting, year-round school shoe stock, customer information on first shoes, gift vouchers and a voucher saving scheme. Coulborn’s future plans include utilising the building’s second floor and increasing the shop’s casual shoes offer up to a size 6/39. www.littlegoodynewshoes.com
THE ICKLE WARDROBE 31 High Street, Market Harborough, Leicestershire Established in 2012, The Ickle Wardrobe is an independent family-run children’s boutique for 0-8 years. With an ethos of ‘letting kids be kids’ to the collection curated by store owner Samantha Pounder, there is also a strong focus on UK, Fairtrade and organic labels including Frugi, Kite, Piccalilly, Pigeon and Sense Organics. Other key brands include Toffee Moon, Bob & Blossom and Indigo Jamm toys. The store has been designed to provide a clean, crisp look, with merchandise stocked by gender and in outfits. The business has a transactional website, with plans afoot to grow the e-commerce arm and also to offer more children’s gift options. www.theicklewardrobe.co.uk
News:
MOTHERCARE X JULIEN MACDONALD Global parenting retailer Mothercare, in association with Select Licensing, has announced an exclusive collaboration with British fashion designer Julien Macdonald OBE. Launching on 20 April in 70 UK Mothercare stores, on mothercare.com and the Mothercare App, the Smile by Julien Macdonald collection comprises 31 pieces of ready-to-wear jersey casuals and limited edition occasionwear for girls and boys aged 0-2 years.
LITTLE CIRCLE Little Circle is a new childrenswear online concept platform that launched in September, with a mission of becoming the long-term fashion solution for parents to dress their growing children. Supporting sustainability and beautiful design, its Recircle service offers a savvy solution for the short lifespan of children’s clothes. Recircle allows customers who buy from Little Circle to send back their children’s clothing for resale once it’s been gently worn and outgrown, in return for credit. After a launch of a debut own-brand girls’ collection, Little Circle is now set to introduce its own boys’ capsule collection for s/s 16. www.littlecircle.co.uk
STEP2WO ACQUIRES ONE SMALL STEP Start-rite Shoes has sold its retail business One Small Step to luxury children’s footwear brand Step2wo. Step2wo has concessions in Harvey Nichols, Brown Thomas, Selfridges Oxford Street and Fenwick Brent Cross. In addition to selling its own-label footwear in its concessions, Step2wo carries brands including Gucci and Armani Junior. The Start-rite brand will continue to be sold through the transferring stores, with all One Small Step stores being rebranded to Step2wo during 2016.
Retail news in brief: TIMBERLAND TO OPEN OXFORD ST STORE Following the refit of its Regent Street flagship last year, Timberland continues to focus its retail strategy on London, with a planned opening of a footwearonly store on Oxford Street in March. The brand’s fifth London branch, the store will be located at 158 Oxford Street and take up 90 sqm of space, stocking footwear with a selection of accessories across menswear, womenswear and kidswear.
H&M TO UPSIZE IN BLUEWATER H&M is to upsize in Bluewater, Europe’s leading retail and leisure destination, to create a new 40,000 sq ft statement store, its flagship for the south east. Due to open in November 2016, the significantly larger Bluewater flagship will incorporate an additional 15,000 sq ft of space, an increase of 60 per cent compared to the current store, and will showcase the full product range including collections for children, teens, women and men.
JOHN LEWIS LEEDS SECURES HEAD OF BRANCH James Prince has been appointed the head of branch for John Lewis Leeds, which is set to open autumn 2016. John Lewis is investing £37 million in the 255,000 sq ft Leeds store, which will be one of its largest outside London. Prince, who started his John Lewis career eight years ago as an operations manager at John Lewis Liverpool and has been head of branch at John Lewis Sheffield for the past four years, will lead the Leeds team of 550 staff. MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 13
EDITOR’S PICK | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
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BRANDS To Watch CWB editor Laura Turner selects the must-have collections to get in-store. —
01: TUTA KIDS
02: GIRLS TALK TO BOYS
Launched last year, fashion forward UK label Tuta Kids offers children’s clothing for six months through to 10 years. Catering for boys and girls, the collection provides a mix of quality styles, luxurious materials and signature details. In terms of pieces, it spans dresses, jackets and playsuits through to everyday essentials such as skirts, shirts, tops, coats, cardigans, trousers, tracksuits and bodysuits. Tuta Kids offers at least 80 unique items per season, divided into boys, girls and babies. Wholesale prices average £15 for babywear and £20 for kidswear. www.tutakids.co.uk
Newly launched in October, Girls Talk to Boys is a new UK brand of childrenswear for 2-8 years. In terms of style, the brand is heavily influenced by Korean and Japanese fashion. Other fundamental design principles are “smart comfort” – such as blazers made of sweat fabrics – and that every garment can be mixed and matched to create endless outfit opportunities. Pieces include bomber jackets, drop crotch trousers, denim pleated midi skirts, button-up shirts and dresses, with key items including the Elliot two-toned zig-zag print cardigan and the high-waist Maggie trousers. Wholesale prices £11-£35. www.girlstalktoboys.com MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 14
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EDITOR’S PICK | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
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03: MAISON CHAOS
04: THE SMALL GATSBY
05: KNIT PLANET
Swedish brand Maison Chaos came into fruition last year, offering children’s fashion for 3-14 years. Made from high quality materials under fair and sustainable conditions, the range is designed to provide freedom of movement, durability and bold expression. With approximately 30 pieces, the a/w 16 collection has a focus on jackets, including an updated version of the classic duffle. There are also basics with a twist, including joggers, leggings, sweaters and dresses. Style inspiration comes from the ‘athleisure’ trend, blurring the lines between fashion and leisurewear. Wholesale prices ¤13-¤89. www.maisonchaos.com
Handcrafted in Vienna, premium children’s fashion label The Small Gatsby was established in 2012 and offers high fashion and couture styles for 0-12 years. The brand spans dresses, suits, skirts, trousers, blouses, shirts, knitwear, leather accessories and newborn gifts; a limited Artist Edition range bearing numbered art prints is also available. The Small Gatsby combines the idea of luxury with the bold vision of exceptional design, with aesthetics and function equally valued. The a/w 16 collection is inspired by classical sports activities such as horse riding, fencing and gymnastics. Wholesale prices ¤70-¤700. www.thesmallgatsby.com
Knit Planet is a new knitwear lifestyle brand catering for six months to six years. Established last year, it offers a range of merino wool knitwear apparel that takes a modern, unisex approach in design. Mix-andmatch pieces include a jumper, cardigan, vest, hoodie, dress, T-shirt, skirt and baby suit, alongside accessories and homeware such as a beanie, snood, scarf, hairband, baby blanket and toy pillows. Key pieces include the ‘bubble trousers’, which can be worn as shorts or as a harem shape pant. Wholesale prices £8-£12 for apparel, £4-£12 for accessories and £5-£12 for homeware. www.knit-planet.com MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 15
CWB RETAIL AWARDS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
TWENTY QUESTIONS WITH... Arancha Heredero and Kirsty Cunningham, co-owners of London children’s footwear boutique Windmill, and winner of the Best Footwear Store in the CWB Independent Retail Awards 2015. 5. What’s your greatest retailing achievement? AH: Winning a CWB independent Retail Award has been such a thrill. We’ve only been trading for two years, so it’s incredibly reassuring and flattering that such a great panel of experts believe in us.
13. What would your dream store be? AH: We have a vision of a very contemporary store with graffiti and clever use of parts of our branding. It would have Scandi-style custom shelving units, a customised floor, updated play area and a new stockroom.
6. What motivates you in your job? KC: Being the best we can possibly be and always looking for new opportunities to grow and improve, so we can provide our customers with the best possible experience.
14. What’s your strangest customer request? KC: A parent once asked if a soft soled cruiser shoe came in an adult size 6 because they looked so comfortable.
7. What do you love about your industry? AH: The diversity of product, the responsibility of care to little feet, and our amazingly helpful reps. Everyone was so quick to welcome us into this small but fantastic industry.
1. What’s an average day in your job role? Arancha Heredero (AH): We are mums first and foremost, so we open the store after we’ve dropped our kids off at school. Deliveries come in during the day, so we process the stock into our POS system. Reps call in to show us new collections, so we all get involved in the buying process. We do our financial planning, setting daily, weekly and monthly targets to ensure our growth is on track. On average we spend 15 minutes with each customer, so on a busy day, we spend most of our time on the shop floor. At the end of the day we have a quick tidy-up and run the reports. Most of our social networking is done after our children are asleep. 2. How did you get into retail? Kirsty Cunningham (KC): I grew up around retail. My dad was a tailor in Yorkshire and had a couple of retail stores. As a child I spent many weekends at trade fairs and loved it. I chose to follow my dream of being a buyer and spent 10 years buying menswear at Selfridges before having children and opening Windmill. 3. What do you love most about your job? AH: Meeting our lovely customers. We love to see them returning and watching them grow up. It’s so satisfying to see a child running around happily in their cool new shoes. 4. What is your least favourite part? KC: Every business has busy and quiet times. While quiet times can be frustrating – waiting for new stock to come in or waiting for the weather to change – there’s always something to do when you run your own business.
8. Who would be your dream customer? KC: We are fortunate to have quite a few A-list customers, but we’d love to see Brad and Angelina with their beautiful brood in-store. 9. How did you decide on the shop name? AH: Whilst we were in the planning stages of our business, I had a dream that I was giving each child a windmill while they were trying on shoes. We now give windmills as a gift with purchases as a result of that dream. 10. Do you have a business mentor? KC: No one in particular, but we soak up any advice or experience we can get from fellow retailers, friends, family and suppliers. My dad was a great source of information when we first opened, and I’m happy to have a few bits and pieces from his old shop in our store. 11. Which is your favourite footwear brand? AH: It’s impossible to choose one, when they are all so different. We love Froddo for its gorgeous colour palette and amazing quality; Pediped is great for first walkers and has exceptional after sales care; Superfit is our most technical brand and we’re amazed by its dedication to foot health; and Petasil is our favourite classic brand and is beautifully made. We also have to champion our new brands like Young Soles, Plae and Toms, without which we wouldn’t have such an innovative mix. 12. If you launched a kids’ footwear brand, what would it offer? KC: This is something we would love to do eventually. We believe the Windmill brand is so strong it would lend itself very well to a range of contemporary classic shoes and boots, well made, with amazing quality. We have a long way to go, but that is the dream.
15. What’s the best and worst piece of business advice you’ve been given? AH: The best was to make sure we’re always on top of our cash flow. We’ve had a few bumps along the way, but we were able to predict them and took action to avoid any disasters. The worst was in the early days; we were talked into buying certain styles that didn’t fit our mix. We stick to our gut feeling now, as we know our customers best. 16. What do you wish you’d known before you started your business? KC: That we’d have to carry so much stock – a bigger stockroom would have been good. 17. Where do you find business inspiration? AH: Social media is a constant source of inspiration. We use Facebook, Twitter and Instagram, and we’re always finding new brands to research, or new innovative ways to display our stock. 18. What’s your productivity secret? KC: We really bounce off each other. We know our strengths and weaknesses and if one of us is low in energy, the other will step up and take over. We’ve learned how to disagree without falling out and we use our sense of humour to keep going. We also have a WhatsApp group that we use for late-night brainstorming ideas and to keep each other up to date. 19. Where do you see your business in five years’ time? AH: We’d like to open a second branch and have a comprehensive online presence. 20. What difference will being a CWB Independent Retail Award winner make? KC: We’ve already made some great contacts with other winners who are sharing the benefit of their experience with us. The award is also making us more visible to emerging brands, who are approaching us as a result. We’re so proud to be the first ever Best Footwear Store winner and intend to wear our CWB crown with pride.
Best footwear store dent Indepen il REta s Award
•2015•
Winner
in association with CWB Magazine. #wearthecrown MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 16
FRODDO is celebrating 70 years this year.
FRODDO AW16 Chelsea Boots have 25 colour options including black in our Back To School collection. Size range 25-40. All leather lined.
www.froddo.com www.KidsNewShoes.com E: pauly.tong@kidsnewshoes.com M: +44 (0)7796 766669 T: +44 (0)1707 888388
Muslinz®
Little Annie Bets are proud to offer a beautiful selection of hair clips and bows, all lovingly handmade in Yorkshire. They are perfect for little girls and adults alike and are made from an ever varying array of quality ribbons and eye catching fabrics in a colour to match every outfit. Don’t have what you want? We’ll even produce bespoke items just for you. Tel: 07792 005309 Email: wholesale@littleanniebets.com
The MuslinZ brand is owned and designed in the UK. MuslinZ have launched a luxury range of 70% bamboo fibre and 30% organic cotton to complement the very popular 100% cotton range. Luxurious 70% Bamboo mixed with 30% Organic Cotton muslin for the soft and silky feel of Bamboo with the added strength of Organic Cotton for durability. This range includes 120cms Wraps, 70cms Muslin Squares and Dribble Bibs. In plain white and a Leaf print in Green, Pink and Aqua Blue. The aim of MuslinZ brand is to offer the very best quality muslin products at affordable prices for all.
For more information please contact: MerryGoRoundUK Unit 13, Twyford Mill Estate, Oxford Road, Adderbury. Oxon. OX17 3SX Tel: +44 1295 810008 Email: sales@merrygorounduk.co.uk www.merrygorounduk.co.uk
BRANDS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
STAR MATERIAL This season’s Rising Star Awards, a competition run by UK kids’ trade fair Bubble London to recognise the most innovative and promising brands launching at the show, was won by From Babies with Love, with Panda & Ping and Outside the Lines highly commended finalists. CWB takes a look at what set the finalists apart. — WINNER: FROM BABIES WITH LOVE Founder: Cecilia Crossley Age range: 0-24 months Wholesale prices: £1-£22.45 Website: www.frombabieswithlove.org When Cecilia Crossley became a mother, she watched children’s charity adverts on television, and with her son in her arms, felt a new and profound strength of emotion. Becoming a parent heightened her concern for the welfare of children universally. This sentiment continued when shopping for her son’s clothes, and was essentially what triggered the idea for From Babies with Love. “I thought to myself; if I could buy beautifully designed baby clothes and enjoy the knowledge that all the profits were used to help children in need, why would I buy anywhere else?” she says. “I searched for brands, retailers or charities to buy such products, but couldn’t find any. So I set up From Babies with Love, a design-led baby brand, and instead of profits going to shareholders, 100 per cent goes to orphaned and abandoned children.” And that is the crux of the brand. It donates 100 per cent of its profits to orphaned and abandoned children around the world. Its vision is that every child has a fair start in life, no matter where they are born. Its mission is to help the world’s most vulnerable children, which it achieves through a partnership with international charity SOS Children, the largest global charity specialising in the care of orphaned and abandoned children. SOS Children creates communities for infants who have nobody else to turn to, having lost their parents through war, famine, disease or poverty. They are cared for by an SOS Mother; they live in family homes in the village with their SOS brothers and sisters. In essence, children who would otherwise be left to fend for themselves on the streets or in slums have a second chance in life. “The children’s circumstances are not their fault and by being loved, cared for and educated, they can go on to lead independent
lives, breaking the cycle of poverty,” continues Crossley. “Take Arun (pictured) from Cambodia as an example. He was just a few months old when he joined his SOS family in the children’s village in Phnom Penh. He moved in with his SOS mother, brothers and sisters, who care for him deeply and shower him with affection – his SOS mother tells us Arun and his siblings love to play peekaboo.” Essentially, From Babies with Love is a pioneering social enterprise with a unique business model in the baby market that taps into to the powerful emotions parents feel for the welfare of children. It also appeals to style conscious parents, who want beautiful, premium products. From Babies with Love is also an ethical, environmentally conscious brand. Its clothing is made with GOTScertified organic cotton, its cotton drawstring bags are Fairtrade, and its greeting cards range is printed on recycled material. In terms of the collection, From Babies with Love strives to bring a contemporary approach to unisex baby clothes, using high quality screenprinting and appliqué details to provide a premium feel and finish. The debut offer comprises 20 pieces made up of babygros, T-shirts, bodies, trousers, dresses, hats, bibs, blankets and muslins. There are also nursery accessories in the form of prints and door hangers and a range of greeting cards. The look of the brand takes inspiration from vintage postal materials collected from across the world, including stamps from the countries in which the children that the brand supports reside. The brand logo is a postmark
to represent the concept of sending; customers send gifts to babies they care about, and by doing so, send help to vulnerable babies. “Our business model delivers to the consumer trend for products that create social change,” says Crossley. “This trend is particularly prevalent in the millennial generation, over 30 per cent of which are already parents. “The majority of people purchasing our products are buying gifts; they may be friends, family members or colleagues. In addition to a stylish product, which can be presented in our drawstring gift bag with a matching greeting card, customers can enjoy knowing their gift is helping others, and enjoy knowing the recipients of their gift will have this heartwarming feeling.” The attention to detail throughout the brand experience is what Crossley believes makes From Babies with Love truly distinctive, as she goes on to explain. “From our business model, through to design, and even our packaging – including a gift box that can be up-cycled into a decorative baby mobile and look books that are printed on the back of posters, which retailers can re-use as POS in their store – every element of our work is innovative and considers environmental, as well as social impacts,” she says. “We believe the details make the difference.” MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 18
BRANDS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
ARUN, FROM CAMBODIA SUPPORTED BY SOS CHILDREN
Current plans see From Babies with Love working on new characters and extending use of its signature Little Kisses print, which features the kiss from the centre of its logo. Following its launch collection, the label is working on ranges in new product categories as well as extending its clothing offer. Crossley is also exploring new markets, recently embarking on a trip to Korea. In terms of growth, in three years’ time the brand plans to be able to offer retailers a wide collection of products. All of these products will be based around From Babies with Love’s animal characters, telling tales of their adventures to countries all around the world where the children its profits support are living in loving family homes. This work will help the brand achieve its three-year goal to support over 50,000 children around the world.
FROM BABIES WITH BUBBLE In addition to winning the Rising Star Award for a/w 16, this season also saw From Babies with Love team up with Bubble London on a competition entitled From Babies with Bubble. The project began early this year, where industry experts were invited to design a new From Babies with Love character. The creations were placed on display at this season’s Bubble London, with visitors to the show invited to vote for their favourite design. The exciting part is that the winning design is now going to inspire a new character to be featured in the brand’s collection. “Because our story, and the stories of the children, resonates and makes people feel happy, we find that there are all sorts of different ways to collaborate with partners,” says Crossley. “We thought about a fun way to engage with everyone involved in Bubble, from the team, the stylists and the media to the visitors themselves. “Our designs represent our story and are great fun to create,” she continues. “We provided a table full of postal materials, a relaxed atmosphere in the trendy House of St Barnabas in Soho, and let the creativity flow.” The winning design voted on by Bubble London visitors was a penguin created by Shehan Perera, communications assistant at Social Enterprise UK, a trade body for social enterprises. “Our designers will take inspiration from the penguin,” adds Crossley. “I can’t wait to see what they come up with.”
>>> MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 19
BRANDS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
HIGHLY COMMENDED: OUTSIDE THE LINES Founders: Philippa Cloete and Kate Please Age range: 3-10 years Wholesale price: From £12 Website: www.outside-the-lines.co.uk
Philippa Cloete and Kate Please created girlswear label Outside the Lines to provide an alternative to what they, as consumers of childrenswear for their own kids, felt the market offered. “Once we had our own children our passion to find great product for them was ignited,” says Kate Please. “The offer in the UK seemed like polar opposites – either high street, predictable, throwaway and very licenceled or, at the other end of the spectrum, the branded offer, which is beautiful, but expensive and unattainable for many.” Outside the Lines aims to be somewhere in the middle of the spectrum, offering product that is accessible, yet still a considered purchase and something to be invested in. “Having worked for many years for some of the British high street’s biggest brands, we felt very strongly we wanted to offer uncompromised product that hadn’t been stripped back for price or to tick a box,” continues Please. “We wanted to create a collection that is beautifully edited and curated to cover different personalities and occasions whilst allowing free spirited youngsters the chance to explore their own style and ‘colour
HIGHLY COMMENDED: PANDA & PING Founders: Philippa Millington & Angela Dimitrijevic Age range: 2-5 years, with a new baby range for 3-18 months available from the end of May. Pyjamas will also be made available up to 9 years for a/w 16/17. Wholesale price: £10-£30 Website: www.pandaping.com
outside the lines’. We pick the best trends and engineer them to still be contemporary but infuse them with extra touches, a sophisticated edge, femininity and a sense of humour that would appeal to both children and parents. Our beautiful, muted colour palette with pops of colour and our investment in rich and interesting fabrics gives a strong look.” Outside the Lines’ curated offer covers most product categories, from knits and washed jeans through to party skirts. The brand has a relaxed look, with all pieces interchangeable and able to be dressed up or down. Feedback on the understated 30-piece debut collection saw a strong response to the outerwear, dresses and use of “hidden detail and pretty touches”.
“We love a Breton stripe with a cool twist or a soft metallic peter pan collar, paired with a beautiful twisted tutu and embellished waistband, finished off with tights and casual boots,” Please adds. Over the next three years the brand plans to focus on building brand confidence and loyalty and expanding wholesale within the UK and Europe through key stockists. Focus will also be placed on branching into other product areas, namely baby, homewear, accessories and possibly boyswear. An e-commerce website is due to launch in August, which will showcase the full collection and help Outside the Lines establish the retail side of the business in conjunction with the wholesale arm.
The concept for Panda & Ping originated from brand co-founder Philippa Millington wanting to find a duvet for her daughter, then aged two years. “I was very excited about giving my daughter a fun, playful bedroom, says Millington. “I painted a chest of drawers a beautiful shade of sea green, only for my daughter to complain it wasn’t pink. Don’t get me wrong, I love pink – I wore pink Converse trainers on my wedding day – I just don’t want my house filled with it. I set myself the challenge to make a duvet cover for my daughter that was fun, bright and engaging
but I couldn’t find any fabric that I liked. It sounds flippant to say, ‘I just designed some’, because it wasn’t as easy as that, but I wanted something that would capture my child’s imagination and wasn’t too grown-up – or pink. It started off with a duvet set, but as you can see, things developed very quickly.” Said developments have seen Panda & Ping’s range grow to include full-sized single duvet sets, pyjamas and blankets, all printed with unique and colourful Panda & Ping character designs including a giraffe, elephant, flamingo and toucan, hippo and a lion. The brand’s current bestseller is the ‘Jumbo’ blanket measuring 140 x 100cm, which has a host of practical uses. The new baby range, meanwhile, includes a fitted cot bed sheet, rompers and a towel-backed pram blanket sold in a useful printed bag. “Our tag line is ‘beautifully childish bedtimes’, which really sums up what we are about as a brand; we offer practical products with fun and attractive designs,” adds Millington. Another big draw for Panda & Ping is the fact it is designed, printed and made in Great Britain and holds the Made in Britain marque. The duo behind Panda & Ping have plenty of ideas in the pipeline. Initially, they plan to expand the product range to offer a more complete bedding line as well as re-colouring prints. Extra sizes have been added in the pyjamas, some new, complementary prints will be introduced, and there’s the possibility of another new character. MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 20
For Girls who know their own style
Launching AW 16 www.outside-the-lines.co.uk • hello@outside-the-lines.co.uk
BRANDS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
SPANISH FASHION REIGNS
NUECES KIDS
PETIT BÉBÉ
There is an increased focus on Spanish childrenswear brands in the UK; a fact exemplified by the host of Spanish labels attending this season’s childrenswear exhibitions and the increasing number of UK agents taking on Spanish brands. CWB selects some key Spanish labels currently making an impression. —
BEA CADILLAC
BABINÉ Babiné offers a clothing range of classic Spanish styles. Catering for 0-16 years, the collection includes rompers and dresses
for babies, smart shorts/trousers and shirt sets for boys, and dresses, blouses and skirts for girls, all with matching accessories. Produced entirely in Spain, Babiné is designed at the brand’s Seville base and manufactured in the surrounding area, which allows the full production process to be overseen. Babine’s UK agent, Roccapina Agency, has seen demand for the brand in the UK growing season on season. Wholesale prices £10-£43. UK agent Roccapina Agency: www.roccapina.co.uk
BEA CADILLAC Despite being well established in the UK, Bea Cadillac continues to go from strength to strength each season and
was recently featured in Vogue magazine. The Malaga based brand has worked hard to tailor every aspect of its business towards making things easy for the UK customer; invoicing is in GBP, for instance. Bea Cadillac is 100 per cent designed and manufactured in Spain, with high attention to detail. Recent developments have seen the brand designing its own exclusive materials. Wholesale prices £33-£42. UK agent Roccapina Agency: www.roccapina.co.uk
CANADA HOUSE – REPUBLIC OF KIDS This season, UK agency Solobi launched Spanish childrenswear label Canada House –
Republic of Kids to the UK. Established in 1953, the brand caters for 0-16 years offering collections of around 250 pieces covering clothing and accessories. The style of the brand is a bold mix of tradition and innovation, with a focus on natural fibres. The brand’s agent, Birgitte Kleftakis of Solobi, believes Spanish adults’ fashion – which she describes as offering “great design, good quality and very reasonable prices” – is helping increase awareness for Spanish design, including childrenswear, in the UK. Wholesale prices £2.50-£20. Short order available. UK agent Solobi: www.solobi.co.uk
FINA EJERIQUE Established in 1993 and catering for 0-14 years, Fina Ejerique creates highest quality, comfortable childrenswear in what is described as “classic renewed” style. Collections offer approximately 150 pieces and include dresses, trousers, shirts, swimsuits and bloomers. UK brand recognition – and sales – soared for Fina Ejerique recently when Prince George was featured in an official photograph wearing one of its Fair Isle jumpers. Wholesale prices £20-£50. Short order available. UK agent AliOli Kids: www.wholesalealiolikids.wordpress.com MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 22
BRANDS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
CANADA HOUSE – REPUBLIC OF KIDS
PAN CON CHOCOLATE
PILI CARRERA
PETIT OH!
BABINÉ
FINA EJERIQUE
NUECES KIDS Launched in 2009, but having made its Bubble London debut this season, is Spanish childrenswear label Nueces Kids. Catering for 1 month through to 16 years, the brand describes its style as “new classic”, providing comfortable clothing with a high quality standard and a focus on handmade products at reasonable prices. Collections comprise approximately 300 pieces. Wholesale prices on request. Short order available. Contact: www.nueceskids.com PAN CON CHOCOLATE Established in 1998, Pan Con Chocolate is a Spanish childrenswear brand full of colour and prints for babies age 3-36 months and children age 2-14 years. The label offers between 150 and 170 pieces per collection, including coats, T-shirts, dresses, trousers, skirts, tops, shirts and baby snow suits. Wholesale prices £13.63-£38.24. UK agent Steven Goodchild: s-goodchild@btconnect.com PETIT BÉBÉ Petit Bébé is the new baby range from Spanish childrenswear label, Bea Cadillac. Launched for s/s 16, Petit Bébé is a direct result of Bea Cadillac’s success in the UK, and the brand’s desire to build and capitalise on this. Although sold at a slightly lower price point than the mainline collection, the baby range is still 100 per cent designed and manufactured in Spain to the same high standards as Bea Cadillac. Having been well received, the Petit Bébé collection has since expanded and for a/w 16 includes woollen items, socks and tights. Wholesale prices £9-£28. UK agent Roccapina Agency: www.roccapina.co.uk PETIT OH! A relative newcomer to the UK market, Petit Oh! has exhibited at Bubble London for the past two seasons. Pastel basics
for 0-2 years are at the brand’s core, with its UK agent Roccapina Agency describing the label as “reasonably priced yet high quality, super soft and in a huge array of colours.” The brand is based in Barcelona, and manufactures in Peru from Pima cotton. Wholesale prices £5.50-£17. Some short order availability. UK agent Roccapina Agency: www.roccapina.co.uk
PILI CARRERA Established in 1963, Pili Carrera caters for 0-14 years. The brand maintains a classic style in all of its designs, and provides clothing for all occasions. White and beige rule within its babywear, with natural tones featuring heavily for older children’s styles. In addition to clothing, Pili Carrera also covers accessories, nursery furniture and buggy accessories. Wholesale prices £20£70. Short order available. UK agent AliOli Kids: www.wholesalealiolikids.wordpress.com MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 23
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TIMELESS FASHION Rachel Riley’s eponymous children’s label seems to be going from strength to strength. After all, when you can count Madonna and Kate Middleton among your list of fans, it can’t all be bad. Following on from the brand’s recent industry recognition from parenting website My Baba, who awarded Rachel Riley Favourite Stand Gold Award in this season’s My Baba Bubble London Awards, now seemed like a good time to find out the company’s next moves. Rebecca Jackson speaks to Rachel Riley to learn more about her business model and classic label. —
MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 00
INTERVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
Rebecca Jackson: Bubble London’s online media partner awarded Rachel Riley Favourite Stand Gold Award in this season’s My Baba Bubble London Awards. What do you think caught their eye? Rachel Riley: Winning the gold award was lovely recognition for the efforts our wholesale team had made to ensure our stand at Bubble looked different: maybe it was the gold glitter carpet and the gold frames around our a/w 16 lifestyle photography? Or maybe it was our ‘soldier’ who always seems to come out to trade shows with us, standing sentry and blowing his horn featuring our logo banner.
appointment of agents, and we have also seen interest from other overseas markets.
RJ: In terms of the collection itself, what did you present for a/w 16? RR: The collection is based around winter prints and tartans, with themes such as migrating birds and squirrels on soft cotton flannels. I love tactile fabrics so there are plenty of these, with fake furs, damasks and soft intarsia knits. There is also hand smocking with kissing doves and winter red roses; our customers seem to appreciate the hand-work in our collection.
RJ: Aside from wholesale, what other channels do you sell through? RR: We have two of our own shops in central London. We also have websites in both the UK and USA, and sell to other e-commerce sites. Customers are very informed nowadays; they like the personal service of a shop, but also the practicality of ordering online.
RJ: What is the company’s current market position? RR: We are medium to high-end and perceived to be good value for money. We are proud of the quality of our fabrics and manufacturing and our clothing is designed to last and to be handed down to the next generation. Our dress prices range from £16 to £49 wholesale. In terms of brand adjacencies, our customers might also shop at Little White Company, John Lewis and Marie-Chantal. RJ: How do you grow customer reach? RR: Since we started, we have always grown through word of mouth, and there is nothing better than being recommended by a friend or relative who can talk about the quality of our products and the service. We’ve also been lucky enough to have press interest in our collections and our lifestyle photography. And as we have grown our wholesale business we have appointed agents in the UK, Ireland and USA. RJ: How is the wholesale side of the business performing? RR: We are very pleased with its progress and plan to appoint further agents for new territories soon. We have had a lot of media coverage in the past year or two, and that has been positive as it has created increased demand for both the seasonal collections and our Heritage collection, which is available for re-order year-round. RJ: How many accounts do you have? RR: We have approximately 120 stockists, and this includes large department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman in New York, Seibu and Takashimaya in Japan and Harrods and Selfridges in London, as well as smaller independent shops in the UK and the USA and websites. We are hoping to increase the number of stockists with the
RJ: Are there any new territories you’re targeting for accounts? RR: At present, we are in discussions with overseas markets, but only time will tell if these are suitable. However, we have been pleased with Orchard Agency who we appointed in the UK recently for the south-east territory, and we plan to appoint new agents to cover the rest of Great Britain. For a/w 16 we’ve also started working with agent Nuala McKenna for Northern Ireland and the Republic of Ireland.
is always inspirational: from Queen Victoria dressing her children in matching sailor suits to the smocked dresses that Princess Anne wore in the 50s, and the matching outfits that Prince William and Prince Harry wore in the 80s. RJ: Are you a fan of social media for business? RR: Yes, we like using social media as it is so instant. We have a business account for Instagram in both the UK and US, which follows the calendar of new season collections. Our customers often share photos of how sweet their little ones look in our clothing, so it is fun for us to share that. I also have a
RJ: Do you plan to open more standalone stores? RR: We are pleased with the performance of the current shops and their growth trajectory, but it demands a great deal of time and attention and of course investment to run shops. So, at present, our strategy is to build our stockists through increasing our wholesale business. That said, I am a shopkeeper at heart, as both my grandparents had shops, so never say never. RJ: How do you balance your own-store retail presence with the wholesale operation? RR: I am a great believer that customers shop locally – especially those with small children because it is the most practical way. And, even though we have a shop in Knightsbridge, we also sell to Harrods, and still find that we can co-exist quite happily in proximity. If an independent has customers coming in, its customers will buy for their needs and wants, so having our own shops would not be a negative influence here. On the contrary, we always make sure that our independent stockists receive the collections first, and we do an attractive ‘welcome pack’ for them, too. RJ: Kate Middleton is a fan of your brand – to what extent has this association helped sales? RR: It has been delightful to see our outfits on Prince George and both personally and professionally I am honoured. He is a highprofile baby, so the media coverage has been extensive and international as the British Royal Family is very popular abroad. Of course, this has brought increased awareness of our company on an international scale as well as in the UK. RJ: Do you feel the Prince George Effect has boosted demand for classic childrenswear? RR: I am sure that classic children’s clothes are now ‘on-trend’ due to this influence, as this is the first time in 30 years that we have a new generation of Royal children. That said, I have always had an interest in what Royal children wore, as the history of children’s clothing
personal Instagram account: @rachelrileyglam, which is more design-led and inspirational. RJ: Are there plans for any new product categories? RR: Last year we did a collaboration with Start-rite shoes and the previous year we expanded the Heritage collection, which had been introduced the year before and proved to be so popular. We continue to add to the Heritage collection, so that is continually evolving, but we do not have any plans to introduce new ranges other than our seasonal collections. RJ: What are the short and long-term plans for the business? RR: We are pleased with our overall growth and will continue to expand wholesale both at home and abroad. We would also like to collaborate with overseas markets and will actively pursue this. We have invested in our websites for both retail and wholesale, so our buyers can view our ranges and place orders in both pounds sterling and US dollars, and we will continue to expand e-commerce actively. MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 25
REVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
FANCY FOOTWORK CWB’s pick of footwear taken from the a/w 16 edition of UK kids’ trade fair Bubble London. —
RAP The result of six generations of family working in the industry, RAP has established itself as a pioneer in a new generation of accessible quality footwear for children. The collection is divided into four groups: pre-walker for 6-18 months; baby for 1-3 years; kids for 3-10 years and teens for sizes 28-40. The brand’s a/w 16 collection is strongly influenced by colours from the 70s and features new flower prints, laminated disco leathers and a rough, tough look for the boys’ collection. Plans for the brand are to increase its product line further, with a wider footwear collection of classic and fashion shoes in sizes 20-35. www.arautorap.com
ANGULUS LITTLE LULU’S Returning to Bubble London this season was s/s 16 Rising Star Winner Little Lulu’s. For a/w 16, the brand focuses on unisex colours, with the majority of styles suitable for boys and girls, as well as models specifically for girls. Metallics feature heavily, as do neutrals highlighted with bright colours, and more colourways have been added to bestselling styles. New designs for a/w 16 include a gold and silver low-top pump, a girl’s black ballet slipper and a velvet T-bar in Bordeaux. www.little-lulus.com
The Scandinavian winter with its many different moods provides inspiration for the a/w 16 Angulus collection. Key models include the TEX Boot in different variations, such as fine artwork detailing in the form of apple trees, lightning and clouds, as well as a new collection of TEX boots in a shorter and lighter version, which are ideal for babies. Also key are biker boots with fringes, stars and a leopard print; a Chelsea boot with heart artwork detail available in a range of colours, prints and materials and a Mary Jane with a bow. www.angulus.dk
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REVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
HUNTLEYS New to Bubble London for a/w 16, British brand Huntleys offers a modern footwear collection for boys and girls available from UK infant 1 to UK junior 13. The brand uses 100 per cent quality leather across its entire range, alongside cushioned arch supports to help aid natural foot growth and full leather lining for extra support. Safety and comfort are paramount and in order to achieve this, all of its shoes have full non-slip, light and flexible soles. www.huntleysshoes.com
MARIA LEON Maria Leon belongs to a family of thirdgeneration artisan shoemakers who develop quality children’s footwear in Arnedo, Spain. With distinctive design, select leathers and permeable linings, the collection seeks to provide unique style, comfort and durability. Highlights include a range of girls’ Back to School shoes, booties, boots, pumps and moccasins as well as a waterproof range and a “rural” range. Orders can also be customised to a buyer’s own choice of leathers and velvets in the new season’s colours and finishes. www.marialeonshoes.com
BOGS FOOTWEAR Bogs Footwear offers children’s winter boots and shoes crafted in eye-catching mixed materials, patterns and plush high loft linings. Features of the a/w 16 collection include insulation that protects in sub-zero temperatures; Rebound technology, which provides cushioning and lasting comfort; while DuraFresh and BOGS Max-Wick fight odour and keep feet dry. Building on the success of its kids’ range saw the brand launch the B-Moc boot for toddlers and upwards this season, starting at infant size 4. Available in a Puff, Fleece and Print design, the boots are 100 per cent waterproof. www.bogsfootwear.co.uk
EL NATURALISTA KIDS
F-TROUPE Launched in 2003, London label F-Troupe is well known for its women’s footwear collections. However, this season, the brand made its debut at Bubble London to showcase a children’s footwear range in collaboration with London artist Rob Ryan. Ryan’s intricate paper cutting work readily adapts itself to screenprinting, which can be easily transferred to ceramics, fabrics, laser cutting and now footwear. Originally applied to classic F-Troupe women’s styles, the Rob Ryan collaboration is now being introduced into a children’s range. www.f-troupe.com
Established Spanish brand El Naturalista Kids has over 30 years’ experience in footwear manufacturing and this season it made its Bubble London debut. For a/w 16, the brand reinvented country and tribal trends while animal print textures added brightness to the collection. New models included trainers with colourful, fresh and daring designs. Grey and black leathers remained key, alongside purple and a new tone, Bordeaux, to bring warmth. www.elnaturalistakids.com
MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 27
TRENDS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
THE LOOK OF AUTUMN/WINTER 2016 CWB selects its favourite themes for a/w 16. — SPACE ODYSSEY Thanks to British astronaut Tim Peake, space and astronomy are the new cool. This look offers everything from retro sci-fi references through to planets, moons and stars. >>> LITTLE GREEN RADICALS
CANADA HOUSE – REPUBLIC OF KIDS
ROCKIN’ BABY
RASPBERRY PLUM
HEAVY METAL An offshoot of this season’s space and sci-fi trend sees metallics feature in sequins, beading, lamé, satin and metallic knit, with silver the colour of choice alongside gold, bronze and coloured options. >>> ANGEL’S FACE
THE BONNIE MOB
QUESTION EVERYTHING
LITTLE WARDROBE LONDON
OH...MY! KIDSWEAR
QUESTION EVERYTHING
PATACHOU
HOLLY HASTIE
PETITE PEARL LOWE
LILLY + SID
LITTLE GREEN RADICALS
OUTSIDE THE LINES
RASPBERRY PLUM
GET COLLARED Collars are big news, particularly the traditional peter pan styles. Less conventional takes include colour contrast collars and styles adorned with detailing. >>> MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 28
TRENDS | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
ON THE SPOT Polka dots are popular for a/w 16, showing themselves both in all-over designs and as a point of interest, with oversized ones in particular forming a key look.
PICCALILLY
>>>
PATACHOU
FRUGI
KITE
TOUCH OF TARTAN The Prince George effect and a resurgence of traditional and timeless childrenswear design sees tartan come to the fore this a/w. Classic navy and red colourways are the most popular. >>> PETITE BEBE
LILLY + SID
WHERE’S THAT BEAR?
ROCKIN’ BABY
LILLY + SID
KITE
PATACHOU
ROCKIN’ BABY
LE MU
ANGEL’S FACE
PATACHOU
PETITE BEBE
WINTER PASTELS In stark contrast to the darker, autumnal colour palettes this season is the option of icy winter pastels. Pale and frosty hues of blue, pink, lilac, grey and green are all key. >>> QUESTION EVERYTHING
WOODLAND CREATURES The popular trend of woodland animals continues in childrenswear this season. Designs featuring foxes are still one of the most popular, alongside birds, rabbits, deer, bears and squirrels. >>> ROCK THE GOAT
TOFFEE MOON
HOLLY HASTIE
LILLY + SID
THE BONNIE MOB
FRUGI
KITE
LEMON LOVES LIME
STURE & LISA
MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 29
PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
LAURA
LOVES
01
02
03
04
05
06
01: RACHEL ELLEN Purse £3.12 0115 9622862
02: AFFENZAHN Elephant backpack £11.25 0161 480 8582
03: SNUGLO Bib £4.75 0800 689 1018
04: LALA & BEA Dye your own organic cotton pyjamas with neon Dylon pens and guide sheet £17 07769 704379
05: WOOLY ORGANIC Organic crinkle bunny ears with teething ring £3.75 01295 810008
06: CMYK LIVING Jungle print quilt £32.48 07448 239802
Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 30
PRODUCT | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
Style GUIDE:
ROCKIN’ BABY £6, 020 3637 5388 —
BOOT UP: Bring a little colour to dull, rainy days with CWB’s selection of fun wellington boots.
Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
FRUGI £12, 01326 558 462 —
BOGS £26, 07837 390248 —
POCO NIDO £11.25, 0114 243 5886 —
MINI MELISSA £22, 020 7377 2570 — MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 31
SCHOOLWEAR BUYER: THE LATEST NEWS AND OPINION FROM THE SCHOOLWEAR INDUSTRY
MAPED HELIX
35: News
36: BMB sports a new face Blue Max Banner’s new group sales and marketing director, Laura Thomas, discusses her appointment and how she plans to apply her industry knowledge to the BMB business.
38: The strength of independence Kathryn Shuttleworth, MD of David Luke, presents her views on the ever-changing landscape of the schoolwear industry, the government influences on the sector and her strategy for David Luke in light of these developments. MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 33
Playing the long game… 1935
Founded to supply functional and affordable clothing.
2000
Introduced dependable fast service levels for delivery and 5 day embroidery.
2002
Initiated a Customer Satisfaction Survey which shows increase year on year.
2006
Our trusted Charter was launched.
2015
We became owned by our employees - we will never be sold.
2015
Awarded Investors in People Gold.
Our aspirations do not change: • Our Values are based on Trust and Care. • We don’t supply schools or consumers direct. • We value our customers and will act in their interest.
t: 0161 477 7791 Free Fax Orderline: 0800 072 0217 e: sales@rowlinson-knitwear.com
www.rowlinson-knitwear.com
The perfect fit.) Trousers and skirts accepted by schools and fashion-conscious girls. Available in 3 colours, black, grey & navy, these approved styles come in a wide range of sizes. From waist 22” right up to 38”, trouser leg lengths of S, R, L, XL and skirt lengths including 16”, 18”, 20”, 22” & 24”, a comfortable fit is ensured. Call: 0161 272 7474 to request a sample or visit davidluke.com to find out more.
All our trousers & skirts are made using polyester derived from post-consumer recycled plastic bottles.
*
SCHOOLWEAR | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
Schoolwear NEWS: The latest news from the schoolwear industry. FRODDO STEPS UP BACK TO SCHOOL OFFER
SCHOOLWEAR ASSOCIATION ISSUES NEW GUIDANCE
Children’s footwear brand Froddo has launched new Back to School styles for 2016 including a smaller Chelsea boot and a boys’ and girls’ double strap style. Froddo’s BTS collection focuses on simple lines, colours to complement school uniforms and Velcro fastener entry systems to provide a simple method for the shoes to be put on and taken off easily. Made from high quality leather, the shoes also provide comfort and protection against foot perspiration. The Back to School collection is available in sizes 25-40. Additionally, Froddo can now provide retailers with in-season top-ups, depending on stock levels, via a new B2B service. —
The Schoolwear Association (SA) has issued guidance to its members about “potentially dramatic” changes to the school uniform supply chain. Following The Department for Education’s (DfE) announcement that its School Uniform Guidelines are becoming statutory, the SA is advising all those involved with any part of the school uniform market to make themselves aware of the changes. The statutory guidelines, which are expected to be in place by the end of next year, will require schools to undertake tendering before selecting suppliers for school-specific uniform. The announcement that the previous guidelines would no longer be optional has led to a rush of enquiries from schools to the association about how to respond. “Although we believe that schools generally make sensible and pragmatic decisions about supply, price and the balance of school uniform, we welcome the changes as we believe they will create greater certainty for schools,” says SA chair David Burgess. “However, this will have an impact on the industry, and we are advising members to contact us to ensure they prepare efficiently.” The SA anticipates one effect of the statutory guidelines is that schools will take more control over who supplies them, with more schools trademarking their badges as a part of the tender process. “The Competition and Markets Authority has said it will monitor the effect of the rules to ensure that schools and suppliers comply with competition law,” continues Burgess. “It is important that the industry responds to this, and as an association we have promised our cooperation with the CMA.” —
EASIER WEEDING BY THE MAGIC TOUCH The Magic Touch has marketed its range of 123Flex and garment vinyl products for many years, with the current range now in excess of over 160 different colours and effects. However, as with all flex products cut using traditional plotters, the transfers need to be ‘weeded’, which is considered the most laborious and costly part of the garment decoration process. “When using flex to decorate garments you cut the flex with a plotter/cutter and then you ‘weed’ away the flex that is not in the design and heat press it on,” says Jim Nicol, MD at The Magic Touch. In light of this issue, The Magic Touch has introduced ‘easy-2-weed’, an improved feature for the existing white 123Flex at no extra cost. Using the latest gravure precision engineering during the manufacturing, an embossed effect on the hotmelt backside is applied, enabling cut lines to be more visible and making the weeding process easier and quicker. —
NEWS IN BRIEF
— To celebrate World Book Day, school uniform supplier Trutex ran a Twitter campaign inviting parents to tweet images of their child’s World Book Day outfit for the chance to win a Trutex blouse or shirt of their choice.
TOP RATED BOROUGH FOR ECO SCHOOLS Caerphilly County Borough has been rated within the top three local authority areas in Wales for its number of Eco-Schools. To date, every school in the county borough has an Eco-School award, with 79 per cent having a Green Flag award, which is testament of their hard work to ensure that they are a sustainable school. Green Flags are renewed every two years. On the fourth renewal, the school is granted an Eco-Schools Platinum award. An international initiative, the Eco-Schools programme provides a framework to support sustainable development and global citizenship in schools. The programme was developed in 1994 by the Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE), and introduced into the UK (including Scotland) in 1995. —
SOUTH KOREA SCHOOL UNIFORM SHORTAGE The closure of a jointly run industrial zone in North Korea has caused a school uniform shortage in South Korea. Manufacturers based in the Kaesong Industrial Complex had to leave behind thousands of school uniforms when North Korea expelled all South Korean workers from the site last month. The South had earlier announced the suspension of its operations at the complex in response to North Korea’s rocket launch and nuclear testing. Strained relations between the two countries have resulted in the shutdown of the joint venture. In light of the situation, South Korea’s education ministry has advised schools to relax their uniform policies until new uniforms can be provided for students. —
— Grove School in Market Drayton has introduced a new logo to commemorate its 50th anniversary. To mark the occasion, the school challenged pupils to help in the redesign of its blazer and tie to incorporate the new logo. However, the remodelled grey blazer has received mixed reviews, with parents going so far as to launch a petition against the new design.
— Last month saw eTrader, supplier of fully responsive and e-commerce enabled websites for garment decorators and promotional clothing companies, launch its new corporate branding and a fully responsive website. The eTrader websites platform has also been refreshed, both in terms of new responsive designs and new functionality.
MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 35
INTERVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
BMB SPORTS A NEW FACE Independent supplier of schoolwear and sportswear Blue Max Banner (BMB) has appointed Laura Thomas as group sales and marketing director, completing its senior management team and board of directors. Thomas has a long-standing career in the sales and marketing of sportswear and her appointment, together with BMB’s acquisition of the Orion Teamwear brand in January, reflects the business’s commitment to creating a strong and competitive sportswear brand with an operational performance to match. She tells Laura Turner how she will apply her industry knowledge and experience to the BMB business and what the plans are for BMB’s sportswear offer. —
Laura Turner: What is your career background prior to joining Blue Max Banner (BMB) as group sales and marketing director? Laura Thomas: My background is in strategic marketing planning. Specifically, I have a long-standing career in the sales and marketing of sportswear, having worked as a group marketing director/deputy managing director for Kukri Sports, a company I joined in 2004. Some of my career highlights include being part of the Kukri team awarded the Team England contract for the supply of performance, leisure and formalwear to the 2014 Commonwealth games in Glasgow. LT: What’s first on your agenda at BMB? LTh: First on the agenda is sportswear, and overseeing the full integration of the Orion Teamwear brand into the BMB stable. I come with a wealth of knowledge from the MTO
sportswear sector and will be drawing upon this. LT: As you mentioned, BMB recently acquired sportswear business Orion Teamwear. What course of events led to the acquisition? LTh: BMB has a great reputation in the schoolwear market, but it didn’t have a sportswear brand to match. BMB already offered a stock supported capsule collection of Orion products, so the relationship was already firmly established prior to the acquisition. When an opportunity came up to acquire the Orion Teamwear side of the business, it made perfect sense for BMB to grow its sportswear offering through this route. LT: What will BMB now be able to offer in terms of sportswear product? LTh: Now, with Orion, BMB can offer the best
possible full schoolwear solution and more crucially, be able to deliver MTO sportswear with BMB service levels. It can provide a full range of performance and trainingwear as well as a capsule range that is stock supported. Just as with schoolwear, BMB’s sportswear offering will continually evolve, offering the best designs and fabrics. LT: As both former group marketing director/ deputy managing director for Kukri Sports and an ex-international netball player, you have extensive sportswear knowledge. What advantage does this pose? LTh: I have experience from both sides, from wearing kit – sometimes good, mostly bad – and then from the other side, where we have the ability to make kit great. Fit and design are hugely important and I’m passionate about delivering on both fronts. MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 36
INTERVIEW | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
LT: How do you view the current state of the school sportswear market? LTh: It has definitely grown over the years. Nowadays, children want to look good and feel good when they play their chosen sport and team games. Confidence plays a big role in team success; it’s also important that the school is well represented and stands out from the crowd. It’s an exciting market to work in, and one which I believe will continue to grow, strengthen and evolve. LT: What do you view as the key areas of growth in school sportswear? And also the main challenges? LTh: With the growth of Academies, more and more schools are looking for a personalised approach that covers all sports – MTO options, sublimation and more modern performance fabrics. The challenge here, for the schools, is to find a supplier that can deliver a team brand kit on time and one which represents good value, as well as providing great performance teamwear that fits the rigours of the sport and the school’s needs. With Orion Teamwear, BMB is perfectly positioned to deliver this with the service levels for which it is renowned. LT: What is your strategy for BMB’s marketing? LTh: As BMB has grown significantly through acquisitions, and has a number of brands within its stable, we are currently in the process of undertaking a full review to simplify our brand architecture. The results of this review will form the basis of our future marketing. LT: Your responsibilities at BMB also include engaging with customers and understanding their needs – how do you plan to do this? LTh: During my first few weeks at BMB, and as part of my role as sales director, I have taken every opportunity to get out and meet as many customers as I can. It’s already providing me with real insights into the wants and needs of our customers, the market we operate in, and in the products. As part of my remit, I plan to continue to do this on a regular basis.
LT: Is BMB’s senior management team and board of directors now complete? LTh: Yes, with myself joining the board on 11 January, and Nigel Osborne as CFO, the Blue Max Banner Group Board is now complete and ready to take the BMB business to the next level.
LT: Are further bolt-on acquisitions a possibility for BMB? LTh: In the past, sound and strategic acquisitions have contributed to BMB’s success and where an opportunity arises, that will still be a possibility. Right now, following the Orion Teamwear acquisition, the key priority is focusing our efforts on a smooth integration within the BMB business and delivering outstanding service to our customers.
LT: What does that involve for BMB? LTh: To invest in new product development as well as intensifying our efforts in marketing and branding. We will continue to build on our strong reputation in the market for providing stock supported products in a huge variety of size options to cater for evolving customer needs. Ultimately, we are working to become the ‘one stop shop’ for all schoolwear needs – both in school uniform and sportswear.
ORION SPLASH TOP
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Children want to look good and feel good when they play their chosen sport and team games. Confidence plays a big role in team success; it’s also important that that the school is well represented and stands out from the crowd.
MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 37
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OPINION | WWW.CWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
THE STRENGTH OF INDEPENDENCE Kathryn Shuttleworth, managing director of school uniform and sportswear supplier David Luke, presents her views on the changing landscape of the schoolwear industry, the government influences on the sector, and her strategy for David Luke in light of these developments. —
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support in the face of this threat to independence.
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With the schoolwear market performing strongly, retailers can feel confident in being in a positive position. But as changes in the market continue, with the perception that it is time for consolidation and vertical integration, we need to work together to retain all the advantages of independence that will keep the market strong and serving well. As I’ve travelled round the UK visiting David Luke customers, I’ve been struck by the strength of the UK independent schoolwear retail market. There is huge diversity in local markets and great differences in the retail style that is supplying them. But one thing remains constant: independence. Offering schools choice is an unrivalled competitive advantage for independent retailers. Getting the right product-to-school fit, at the right price, is something that cannot be done at the brand level of the market when only offering a single range. Additionally, to be able to service a school effectively online and offline; knowing the issues faced locally; understanding the demands and requirements of the schools’ personnel and tuning in to the parents’ and students’ preferences all take understanding and knowledge. To then supply the appropriate product into that market to bring the most benefit to the school takes skill and access to great options. The so-called ‘Australian model’, where national suppliers win contracts with schools
and deliver their product through a local or having little control over pricing and margin retailer, assumes a weak retail sector, unable to within them, could start to reduce the amount win contracts for themselves and without the of credit and stock available and cause a severe resources or skills to determine supply terms. deterioration in service. But this is not what I see around the If the boundaries of factory, supplier and UK. Of course, there are examples of a lack retailer become too blurred, all trade becomes of succession or finance leading to a dearth fair game. The suppliers who retain a policy of of supply in a certain area and this gives supporting retail will quickly need to adopt new the opportunity for some national suppliers models if there is no reciprocal support in the to benefit. Where retail is strong, however, face of this threat to independence. national brands find it hard to gain traction. But let’s not get carried away. Changes So, is it time to ask ourselves how like this are not new. And in spite of the important this independence is? Are we threats, independent retail in schoolwear happy to operate in a market where the remains strong. It is hard to foresee a terms of supply are beyond the control of the time when schools will welcome uniform independent retailer? Will the model work if being made available out of large sports the independent retailer loses a contract with kit warehouses on industrial parks such as a school to a national supplier but agrees to a Shirebrook, perhaps. The independent will joint supply arrangement, whatever the cost? always be able to keep its values more closely With government changes likely to bring aligned with the schools it serves, than those about an emphasis on the tender process, without such freedom. new knowledge and skills may need to be At David Luke, we carried out our learned so success at this does not become business succession at the beginning of this the privilege of those with the resources to year to preserve our independence and enable ‘wow’. Independents have much more depth the continuation of our values. Working closely in their armoury than a fancy presentation. All with owner-managed factories and ownerindependent retailers should be looking at the managed retailers, we have structured our list of academies and schools in the process succession to ensure our own owner-managed of transforming (www.gov.uk/government/ status continues well into the future. We’re publications/open-academies-and-academyall 30- or 40-something, with the advantages projects-in-development) rather than waiting of the founders still being involved, along to be handed the school at a predetermined with quite brilliant staff, and we all care retail price when the costs of managing deeply about what we do. it make it unviable for the We believe strongly in national supplier. this market and that the If the boundaries If the organisations strength of independents is of factory, supplier that take a direct-to-school key to its success. Between marketing approach see the us all, we are a network of and retailer become businesses who are all striving benefits of this model, both too blurred, all trade from winning schools faster to deliver the best service becomes fair game. possible. Vertical integration and an acceptance from may suit some sectors but retailers, the changes to the The suppliers who market could be far-reaching. in this complex network of retain a policy of The depth of financing specialised products and supporting retail services, with a uniquely and stockholding to manage will quickly need to intense peak, it is important the peak we enjoy in our market is shared between the we work with those who adopt new models if respect the market and the elements of our supply chain. there is no reciprocal place we each have within it. Consolidating those elements,
MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 38
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STEPHANIE HORTON Chief marketing officer, Farfetch Farfetch, the online destination for the world’s best independent boutiques, launched kidswear this month. Drawing from its current roster of boutiques, as well as some new specialist signings, the offering covers the 0-12 years age bracket. Farfetch’s chief marketing officer Stephanie Horton, who has been heavily involved in the kidswear launch, reveals more. — Laura Turner: What is Farfetch? Stephanie Horton: Farfetch.com was founded in 2008 by our CEO, José Neves. At the time, independent boutiques were struggling without an online presence and as the popularity of online shopping increased, larger retailers were going online and benefiting from being able to sell to more customers. José’s idea was to offer the best independent luxury boutiques in the world a chance to compete with big online players by coming together on one online platform. For example, if you have a boutique in Lisbon, Dubrovnik or Mumbai, you have your own local clientele. But, these customers are also shopping online, along with a group of other customers who may never set foot in your boutique. So, if you aren’t selling online, it is a huge missed opportunity. José owned a boutique himself called B Store, so this meant he could really relate to what independent retailers wanted and needed at the time; as an entrepreneur this gave him a unique perspective. In essence, we want to revolutionise the way people shop for fashion. We unite over 400 boutiques internationally from London, Miami and Copenhagen to Croatia, Kuwait and Tokyo, into one online destination; this is the foundation of our business. We are an e-commerce brand that successfully bridges the gap between online and offline and who celebrates the independent retailer by giving them a global platform to sell through. The Farfetch partner boutiques occupy a total of more than 1,000,000 sq ft of retail space. The diversity of boutiques and their buyers creates a far broader product offer than e-commerce businesses with traditional buying models, allowing customers to shop an unparalleled range of brands and unique pieces from around the world. LT: What is Farfetch’s current reach? SH: We receive around 10 million monthly visits to the site. LT: Why launch a kidswear division? SH: The highly discerning shoppers who visit us every month for our fashion and lifestyle offering were asking for kidswear to be added. And the recent success of the brand, its growth and international expansion has facilitated this development. The official launch of the kidswear category was on 1 March and we marked it by
working with renowned illustrator Will Broome, who created a bespoke kidswear art gift. LT: What will the kidswear division cover? SH: We are really excited to be launching with 16 boutiques and more than 70 brands. Age range spans newborn to 12 years, covering clothing through to shoes and accessories. LT: What are the criteria for the kidswear category? SH: Every one of our boutiques has been selected for its unique approach, forwardthinking attitude and diversity. Each boutique buyer has their own one-of-a-kind buying style and sources some of the most interesting pieces from all over the world, allowing our customers access to an unparalleled range of brands and unique items. For the launch, we have an amazing selection; from kidswear boutiques such as Carofiglio Junior in Italy and Kids 21 in Singapore to brands including Stella McCartney Kids, Hucklebones, Caramel Baby and Child, Roksanda, Burberry Kids and more.
NAME: Stephanie Horton JOB TITLE: Chief marketing officer, Farfetch www.farfetch.com
LT: What are the growth plans for kidswear? SH: Since we have just launched, we are focusing on providing the best and most diverse offering of kidswear to our customers; ensuring their experience in this new category on Farfetch is of the same calibre as our existing womenswear and menswear. LT: Are there any other developments for Farfetch? SH: In the past couple of months we have partnered with our first boutiques in Morocco (Studio 14), Singapore and Malaysia (Club 21). We’re always looking for new boutiques that can offer our customers something completely different. We still have lots of markets that we’re very interested in exploring. I’m also very happy to announce that we have just expanded into beauty, partnering with industry expert Space NK Apothecary. We’re thrilled that it is our first beauty partner to launch on Farfetch. LT: Tell us something we don’t know about Farfetch… SH: Farfetch has been global from the beginning: we launched the site with 25 boutiques from five countries, and this is an element of the brand which remains at our core. MARCH/APRIL 2016 - 42
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