WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk JUNE 2016/ ISSUE 256/ £6.95
THE SHOW ISSUE MAKE A DATE The essential guide to s/s 17 trade exhibitions FRENCH DRESSING Exclusive interview with Paul & Joe founder Sophie Mechaly DIGITAL DRIVE SilkFred founder Emma Watkinson shares her journey to success
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SCOOP AND SCOOP LONDON TOGETHER UNDER ONE ROOF
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SCOOP AND THE CITY
A sneak peak at next month’s show
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BERLIN EVOLUTION
The latest developments at Panorama Berlin
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FASHION FORWARD
WWB’s essential preview of Premium Berlin
50/ L O N D O N S W I M W E A R SHOW The brands and trends not to miss at this year’s edition
53/ F A N C Y F O O T W O R K
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54/ T H E B U S I N E S S O F FASHION
EDITOR’S COMMENT
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TALKING POINT
Your views on the issues shaping the industry
How brands survive in a challenging market
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RETAIL FORUM
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SOCIAL SHOPPING
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16/ B A C K S T A G E The other side of Womenswear
Interview with Ingo Heinrich, CEO of Stylefruits
08/ N E W S
Key footwear brands in the spotlight
THE LAST WORD
With Esin Akan, founder and designer, Esin Akan
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With SilkFred’s Emma Watkinson
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STYLE FILE
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BLOCK PARTY
The best block heels to get in-store now
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A CUT ABOVE
Paul & Joe celebrates two decades of success
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THE RETAIL BAROMETER
WWB quizzes key indies about the highs and lows of retailing
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EXHIBITION CALENDAR
The shows not to miss for s/s 17
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AT THE SOURCE
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Everything you need to know about Fashion SVP
FRONT COVER: CELIA GOULD
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Editor Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Contributors Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Writer Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com Design & production Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com
Editor’s comment Isabella Griffiths
Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com Sales manager Sam Chambers sam@ras-publishing.com Editorial director Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com Portfolio director Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com Marketing director Stephanie Parker stephanie.parker@ite-exhibitions.com Managing director Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com Reprographics & printing ImageData Group 01482 652323
WWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2016 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.
I recently visited the Internet Retailing Expo, the e-commerce sector’s annual trade show held at Birmingham’s NEC. Apart from being a key platform for e-tailing service and logistics providers, the show also hosts a very interesting seminar programme, where leading figures in e-commerce share their insights. It’s one of my favourite aspects of visiting any trade show, as the knowledge and intel you can gather from such high-profile speakers is hugely valuable. This year’s hot topics centred around the ever-growing mobile commerce arena, as well as personalisation of the online shopping experience, the latter being a bit of a buzzword at the moment. Many of the speakers agreed that translating the service provided on the bricks and mortar shop floor to online was crucial to the success of any e- or m-commerce operation. M&S even employ a dedicated personalisation team, which shows how much onus is placed on this area of the business. The challenge, however, for any retailer, big or small, is getting the correct data to drive it. Personalisation should be subtle, relevant to that particular shopping trip and help customers shop in the easiest and most convenient way. It was clear from the experiences many of the speakers shared that consumers don’t necessarily like engaging with in-store offers that ping into their mobiles while shopping. Things like nearfield promotions that were once hailed as the next big thing didn’t go down well with shoppers, who
considered them spooky and intrusive. However, when used to improve efficiency in-store – for instance to realise that a customer has arrived to pick up a click & collect parcel and to get this ready whilst he or she is making their way to the counter – it is a welcome tool. Personalisation evidently has to be clever and convenient, and not invasive and disturbing: after all, customer satisfaction is the most important metric in retail! It was also interesting to hear how e-commerce players are adapting to the mobile commerce market, with sales through smartphones rapidly outgrowing those through desktop or tablets. Whilst having a responsive website that adjusts to how it is viewed is vital, all of the speakers agreed that predicting the future of mobile, and what’s next for the sector, was impossible due to the speed at which the market is evolving. It’s reassuring to know that nobody in retail has a crystal ball, and that all businesses, large or small, are just adapting to the everchanging landscape as best as they can. Speaking of changing and adapting, one of the features at the heart of this issue is our retail barometer, where we caught up with a number of key indies to find out about current trading, their ‘bread & butter brands’, and the strategies that are driving their businesses. It’s good to see that there are still so many strong indies out there, especially in the mid-market, and that growth is still to be found. It makes for an interesting read indeed.
WWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles include MWB and CWB. RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLC company
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08/ N E W S R E V I E W wwb-online.co.uk
BRANDS BACK ‘REMAIN’ VOTE With the referendum on Brexit imminent, WWB’s straw poll reveals strong support for staying in the EU among brands and suppliers.
With the referendum on Brexit just a couple of weeks away, brands, agents and suppliers appear to be in favour of remaining within the European Union, a straw poll conducted by WWB has revealed. While most acknowledge that the institution of the EU is in need of modernisation and renegotiation, for many the benefits of remaining prevail over the fears of an uncertain future outside of the EU. “We cannot afford to leave the EU. The cost of leaving is estimated at £2,630/head, the cost of staying is estimated at £100/head, so for the cost of a Mars bar a day we have access to all the key markets and benefits that go with exporting into the EEC. The USA has made it blatantly clear that they will not sign any trade agreements until this has been resolved and has indicated that any such trade agreements will be shoved to the bottom of the pile,” says Danny Saul, owner of Frank Saul Fashions, which runs fashion brands Frank Saul, Mascara and L’Atelier. “In short, the UK would move back in time 50 years. As for business, the UK will become uncompetitive due to export tariffs. One could argue that a depressed currency will make our products more attractive; however the cost of administration would increase considerably with the imposed red tape, and a recovery will take absolute years. The other point being: there is no going back once it’s done!” This is mirrored by Michael Shalders, co-owner of fashion agency Love Brands, which represents a number of European labels. “As a business, two concerns strike us immediately. Firstly, the fear of an uplift in extra administration relating to things such as VAT, customs clearance, duty and such like.
Secondly, I have a concern that there will also be a short/ medium term knock-on effect upon consumer confidence. This is something we are experiencing now with big business ‘sitting on its hands’ until a decision is made.” He adds, “I fear if the decision to leave is decided, we will have a period of one or two years of adjustment, during which time businesses will be uncertain of their future investments. This will filter down to consumer level and could be detrimental to consumer spending. Nothing is worse in a marketplace than uncertainty. That much is certain!” Paul Alger, director of international affairs at the UK Fashion & Textile Association, which advises and assists brands on export matters, also backs the ‘remain’ vote: “As the national trade association for the UK fashion and textile industry, UKFT will remain neutral on the EU in/out referendum, but I shall be voting to remain. Personally, I am a raging European. From a business point of view, Europe is our largest export market after the USA and there is no doubt in my mind that our trade with the EU would be damaged if the UK were to leave the EU.” “Even if the UK were able to negotiate a trade deal, I expect that there would be a feeling throughout Europe that the UK had turned its back on it and we could easily see something similar to what happens when two people divorce – in spite of the pleasantries, it almost always turns nasty. The EU is far from perfect and it needs change, but it has kept Europe war-free and generally prosperous for many decades. If we want to change it, we can only do so if we remain part of it.” For more detailed coverage of the EU referendum as well as opinions and analysis visit www.wwb-online.co.uk
FOR DAILY NEWS, ANALYSIS AND UPDATES, VISIT WWB-ONLINE.CO.UK
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NEWS IN BRIEF
NEW LAUNCH FOR HEBE AGENCY
DESIGUAL ROLLS OUT WOW CORNERS
A new fashion agency has launched to the market, introducing Dutch brand Zilch to the UK for s/s 17. Hebe Agency was founded by Joanna Mulcahy, who runs the two Kings Road Fashion boutiques in Leighton Buzzard, Bedfordshire and Woburn Sands, Buckinghamshire. Mulcahy will be introducing Zilch at Pure London in August before taking it on the road, as well as opening a showroom above the Leighton Buzzard store. Zilch focuses on easy to wear mix and match fashion with strong colours and patterns. Currently there are no stockists in the UK, although the brand has a good presence across Europe. Mulcahy will be targeting primarily independent and lifestyle boutiques in the midmarket sector, with contemporary brand adjacencies including the likes of Sandwich, Noa Noa and Great Plains. “I’m looking to open around 40 to 50 stores all across the UK over the first year or two,” says Mulcahy.
Spanish lifestyle brand Desigual is rolling out further Wow corners, both in the UK and internationally. There are currently 200 Wow corners around the world, with the shop-in-shop concepts having recently been made available to UK stores. Typically, Wow corners take up a central location in-store and occupy up to half of a multi-brand shop, featuring special wall design and flooring, as well as the Desigual branding, meaning that each corner is in line with the overall image and customer experience. Desigual offers retailers help with investment as well as support and initiatives such as special events designed to attract customers into the Wow corners. Established in Barcelona in 1984, Desigual employs around 5,000 staff and is present in over 100 countries. It also boasts 23 of its own online stores. The brand is represented in the UK by TCA Showroom.
RED & ROYAL LONDON SETS SIGHTS ON GROWTH UK womenswear brand Red & Royal London is looking to expand its customer base for s/s 17 following its launch last November by fashion entrepreneur Anjan Vij, who has over 30 years of industry experience. The label is making its Moda Woman debut with a collection that encompasses a vast range of ready-to-wear, including structured daywear and sophisticated occasion and eventwear. The brand is targeting a 30-plus customer base and sits alongside the likes of Karen Millen, Coast and Whistles in terms of styling and prices, with average RRPs ranging from £45 for tops to £120 for dresses. Red & Royal London offer a comprehensive range of sizes from 8 to 20, with dedicated plus size styles also available.
JONES BOOTMAKER ROLLS OUT STORE REFITS British footwear brand Jones Bootmaker has rolled out a refit programme to its standalone retail branches, kicking off with 15 key locations initially, 12 of which are in central London, with the remaining branches in Leamington Spa, Nottingham and Edinburgh. The company has appointed international brand communications and retail design agency Mynt with the implementation of the new interior concept, which has been designed around the brand’s British heritage. Jones Bootmaker currently has 118 outlets nationwide, of which 108 are standalone. NEW SHOWROOM FOR TCA AGENCY Fashion agency TCA Showroom has moved its showroom to Islington. The new set-up is located in Fashion House, 137 Essex Road, London N1, where the agency has a vast portfolio of European brands, offering a mix of high fashion and contemporary designs for women. JACK WOLFSKIN SET FOR FURTHER UK EXPANSION Leading German outdoor brand Jack Wolfskin has relocated its southern showroom and training facility to Towcester in a move set to accelerate the brand’s growth in the UK. Located 10 miles from its previous facility in Quinton Green, the new site is a prestigious development set in 80 acres of countryside at Pury Hill Business Park. The setting incorporates high speed communication and IT support, combined with state-of-the-art environmentally friendly technology. Jack Wolfskin launched to the UK in 2010 with major investment in two London flagship stores and the start of a six year sponsorship of Liverpool FC. Currently the brand has six standalone stores as well as an established wholesale distribution network.
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NEWS IN BRIEF
PINK PLANET
NEWNESS DOMINATES AT MODA
SAHARA LAUNCHES S/S 17 PRE-COLLECTIONS
Leading national trade show Moda is building on the success of its revised format and new sector categories with a raft of new signings to its next edition. Moda White, the show’s platform for contemporary and directional womenswear labels, will welcome new UK brand White Vanilla, Dutch labels L’Argentina and La Gauchita, and French brands Fuego, Ananke, Aventures des Toiles and Pink Planet, alongside Toronto label Picadilly, which will launch its new collaborations with leading Canadian designers for the first time at the show. Elsewhere in Moda Woman, Frank Lyman, Orientique Australia, Moshiki and Spanish brand Vilagallo will all debut, while German brand Lebek will make a welcome return. At Moda Accessories, new signings include handbag label Bessie London and scarf specialist Passigatti. Jewellery favourite Dante will also return this summer in a more high-profile location. Moda takes place 7 to 9 August at the NEC in Birmingham.
UK womenswear brand Sahara has launched its first pre-collection for s/s 17, available this month for delivery in November. Designed to meet the changing demands of fashion in times of unpredictable weather patterns, Sahara has created the new transitional offer based on a mid-season ‘buy-it-now, wear-it-now’ concept. Clean, modern lines and a contemporary palette are teamed with the brand’s signature flattering silhouettes, with the collection drawing on unusual artisanal fabrics and techniques. This season has a particular focus on highly wearable jersey and knitwear in muted, sophisticated tones. Wrap-front tops and new asymmetric necklines inject the range with an easy modernity, whilst long lines and cocoon silhouettes strike a balance between comfort and style. Sleek separates and chic, neutral basics also feature. The pre-s/s 17 collection can be viewed by appointment until 17 June.
JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN LAUNCHES LOUNGEWEAR UK knitwear brand Johnstons of Elgin has launched its first women’s loungewear collection for a/w 16. Extending the Johnstons of Elgin product portfolio further, the range is a capsule of luxury cashmere, neutral colour palettes and top quality craftsmanship. Contemporary and easy to wear cashmere leggings, hoodies and jumpers make up the collection, complemented by a luxurious cashmere eye mask and cashmere cable knit socks. Oversized silhouettes and elongated forms are created utilising Johnstons of Elgin’s expertise in whole garment technology, with many of the pieces featuring in the collection having been knitted in one piece, providing highly comfortable, seamless garments. Although the brand has been using whole garment technology for a number of years in 8 gauge, this is the first collection to be created in 12 gauge, creating a finer knit. The loungewear collection will be available to buy from July and will be exclusive to the Johnstons of Elgin Store at 77 New Bond Street and online, with prices ranging between £199-£349.
SCOOP MERGES LONDON SHOWS FOR SPRING 2017 Women’s boutique trade show Scoop is bringing its two events – Scoop and Scoop London – together this summer in the new location of Old Billingsgate in East London. The spring 17 edition of both shows will run side by side from 24-26 July in the larger location, in a new format called Scoop in the City. For one season only, both Scoop formats will be hosted in the new venue, as the Saatchi Gallery plays host to the Rolling Stones retrospective Exhibitionism, which runs until September. Scoop and Scoop London will, however, return to the Saatchi Gallery and their previous datelines next season. The show will once again present its curated selection of brands, with some of the new collections already signed up including the likes of Token, Osklen, Balearmania Ibiza, Ziio Jewellery, Lisa Taylor, Soul Kathriné and Alice in Perfume. LEADERSHIP CHANGES AT BIRA Vin Vara, owner of London’s Tool Shop chain, has been elected to serve as National President of the British Independent Retailers Association (bira). Meanwhile, Michael Weedon, deputy CEO and communications director of the British Independent Retailers Association, is leaving bira at the end of this month. The change is one part of a realignment of the group with a combined headquarters in Birmingham, a streamlined board and a simplified structure to adapt to the pressures that publishing, retail and the association have faced in recent years. NEW BRANDS FOR FOOTWEAR AGENCY North and South Footwear Agencies have been appointed by the Pantone footwear brand, produced by Brex Sa of Switzerland, to be its agents in the UK and Eire. The agency will focus on the s/s 17 range which is due to launch next month. The brand has already shown two collections and has global stockists including Colette, Galleries Lafayette and Merci in France and Tangs and Hypebeast in Asia.
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NEWS IN BRIEF
MICHAEL KORS OPENS LARGEST EUROPE STORE
NEW GLOBAL RETAIL PLATFORM TO LAUNCH
US label Michael Kors has opened its largest flagship store in Europe on London’s Regent Street. Located in a landmark building, the branch is based on a design concept combining an elegant, historic façade with a sophisticated modern interior featuring dark Macassar wood floors and tables, shelves of brushed stainless steel, Venetian wallpaper and Calcutta marble fixtures. “London is one of the world’s great fashion cities and an endless source of inspiration for me personally,” says Michael Kors. “I’m thrilled to be opening a beautiful new flagship on Regent Street that represents everything we do.” Set on three floors, the 16,275 sq ft Regent Street flagship will carry every category of Michael Kors product. “Our Regent Street flagship illustrates the scope of our commitment to the business in Europe,” says John D Idol, chairman and CEO of Michael Kors. “This new European flagship enables us to present the full range of our luxury offering, including our exciting and fast-growing menswear line.”
A new online retailing platform for independent boutiques is set to launch in July, offering retailers a low cost international marketplace with a targeted reach of 22 countries in the first phase of its development. Atterley.com is being launched by investor and non-executive chairman Mike Welch, founder of Blackcircles.com, as well as CMO Nick Freer, and ‘founding partner’ Sarah Murray, owner of Edinburgh designer independent Jane Davidson, who will take up an advisory role. Atterley.com aims to transcend brands and styles and appeal to a wide target customer, with products ranging from independent labels through everyday affordable lines to big brands and high end fashion designers. The business is seeking partner boutiques to join the network, offering access to a large customer base in the UK and internationally, tapping into its existing consumer database of around 250,000 registered users, 10,000 Instagram followers and 25,000 Facebook fans.
CLOTHING DRIVES ONLINE SALES GROWTH E-commerce continued its double digit growth this year, with purchases made online racking up a yearon-year increase of 11 per cent in April, bucking the generally sluggish trend on the high street, latest figures by IMRG Capgemini eRetail Sales Index have revealed. The index was buoyed by healthy sales in clothing/apparel, which recorded a 15 per cent annual increase, building on a similar year-on-year performance in April 2015. The growth was driven by the continued consumer appetite for accessories and footwear, which reported respective year-on-year increases of 25 per cent and 19 per cent. Lingerie performed most impressively, shooting up to 32 per cent year on year; a 19 per cent growth on the previous month. Other sectors which performed solidly last month include gifts, which grew 16 per cent year on year, and home and garden, up by 13 per cent. In the mobile sector, smartphone sales continued to surge at the expense of tablet sales. Sales made on smartphones grew 83 per cent while tablets grew just 3 per cent, falling way short of the 32 per cent annual growth recorded in April 2015. However, the conversion rate for tablets was 1.7 percentage points higher than for smartphones.
CONTINUED GROWTH AT RABE German knitwear specialist Rabe has reported an increase in turnover by 4.8 per cent for the latest fiscal year 2014/15, up to ¤104m across its portfolio of labels, which includes Rabe, Thomas Rabe, Lucia and LeComte. Outstanding sales success was achieved in Germany, the CIS countries, France and the UK, with the company’s export ratio at 30 per cent for Rabe and Thomas Rabe, 56 per cent for Lucia and 45 per cent for LeComte. The company trades in 25 countries and employs 320 staff, serving around 3,000 doors internationally. The brands are represented in the UK by fashion agency Partners in Fashion. VICTORIA’S SECRET SECURES WELSH FLAGSHIP US lingerie retailer Victoria’s Secret is set to debut in Wales with a 10,000 sq ft flagship store in Cardiff ’s St David’s Centre. Opening in late summer, the store will be housed on the Grand Arcade’s upper level, taking the majority of the former H&M premises. Designed by an in-house team, the new Victoria’s Secret store will feature its signature lingerie and sleepwear collections, exclusive fragrances and body care, as well as the Victoria’s Secret Pink and Victoria’s Secret Sport lines. St David’s is anchored by the largest John Lewis outside of London, Debenhams and Marks & Spencer, and also has 200 other shops and restaurants. BOXPARK CROYDON FINALISES TENANTS Boxpark has announced the final tenant line-up for its Croydon development, which will be London’s first dedicated street food and entertainment-led Boxpark concept. Key anchor tenants include Meatliquor, The Breakfast Club and Chilango. In addition, Boxpark will have a series of local Croydon independent businesses on board, including Yumn, The Cronx, Breadtree and Mud. In total, 41 operators will deliver a wide variety of food options – set to open in September of this year.
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Backstage
The events, campaigns and parties not to miss 01/ STARS COME OUT TO REPLAY Denim label Replay celebrated the launch of its new Hyperfree collection, the latest in its series of innovative flexible jeans, with a star-studded event at the Old Selfridges Hotel last month. Footballing legend Neymar Jr and supermodel Alessandra Ambrosio, both faces of the new collection, hit the red carpet for snaps from paparazzi before the exclusive party. Amber Le Bon, Laura Whitmore, Sarah Jane Crawford and Pixie Geldof also attended dressed in Replay. Model Daisy Lowe made a guest appearance, DJ-ing a set of classic tunes. 02/ ROYAL AFFAIR HRH The Duke of Cambridge recently opened The Ralph Lauren Centre for Breast Cancer Research at The Royal Marsden in Chelsea. Funded by supporters of The Royal Marsden Cancer Charity, including a generous donation from Ralph Lauren, the hospital has been redeveloped to the highest specifications to provide a state-of-the-art facility for breast cancer research. “My personal connection with The Royal Marsden goes back to my friendship with Princess Diana when she was its President in 1996,” says Ralph Lauren. “It is a great honour and pleasure to move forward in this fight against breast cancer with her son who has taken over this role. Together I hope our efforts can help save lives affected by this disease.” 01/
03/ BFC ANNOUNCES ONES TO WATCH Fashion industry professionals were brought together with emerging talent from the UK’s top fashion colleges last month for the British Fashion Council’s annual Graduate Preview Day. Meribeth Parker and Sarah Mower, co-presidents of the British Fashion Council Education Pillar, announced the winners of four new design competitions. Chosen by a panel of industry insiders, this year’s winners include Rhys McKenna from the Edinburgh School of Art and Eppyar Hunt from Manchester Metropolitan University, with runners-up Jonathan Preston Moore and Fiona Cartmel (Edinburgh School of Art). 04/ SLOWING DOWN FAST FASHION DOCUMENTARY LAUNCHES New documentary Slowing Down Fast Fashion premieres at the Berlin Fashion Film Festival this month. Launched at a private screening in Central London during Fashion Revolution Week, the film, presented by ethical campaigner Alex James and supported by Fashion Revolution and Campaign for Wool, investigates global fashion production. “The modern mania for fast fashion affects all our lives,” says James. “We want people to make up their own minds and hopefully this documentary will help highlight the conversation around working conditions, fair pay and safety in the garment industry.” 02/
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Talking Point
Your views on the issues shaping the industry Open your eyes – this is the fashion business
JAMES LAKELAND Owner and founder, James Lakeland The last three months have marked a very interesting stage in my career, as I have looked at new opportunities and markets. I took my first trip to Hong Kong and visited Lane Crawford and other top-end retailers. I saw a whole new reality and market, and it really opened my eyes and gave me a good wake-up call. Fashion is all about the possibilities and creativity that the moment
Put principles, values and vision at the heart of retail
LEIGH YATES is the owner of Pink Confetti Bridal Boutique in Leicestershire, a member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB) www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk, and spoke to Melissa Wheeler. My retail background was actually banking, so it was as the result of a personal mission that I
presents to you. Over the last 10 years I have seen the incredible growth of the high street, with Zara taking the lead and the internet being a major link in communicating who you are to the market. As a retailer, you can’t afford to be stubborn and set in your ways. You have to be open to new ideas and create really strong partnerships with your suppliers to grow your business if you have an independent boutique. The supplier-and-client relationship is really important to having a successful business. For instance, I will never forget my first knitwear factory who looked after me and nurtured my business. I have realised that as a brand James Lakeland has increased its scope. We are selling up to size 20 now and we have grown our casual part of the collection, trousers being a major hit in the last two seasons. The occasionwear market has drastically changed, and we are including more outfits, dresses with coats, and long dresses/ eveningwear as the 40 to 60 year old market is now much more fashion conscious than ever. Our philosophy is to look after our customers, send them one piece out of our own shops to satisfy a reorder, host events to create a buzz and promote sales wherever we can.
Travelling opens your mind and makes you aware of the ever-changing market; however the core elements and occasions that women buy for always remain the same: 1. Weddings: Keep in mind that the mothers of the bride and groom want to look fashionable and fresh and definitely not frumpy. 2. Communions: women love to look extra feminine at this occasion, so the colours have to be pretty. 3. The job interview: women always used to wear suits. Now the dress and cardigan can also give a smart look that can be worn again. 4. The holiday edit: from jeans to cut-off trousers and colourful tops and kaftans. Holidays are now all year round. 5. The Christmas party: the top with a bit of detail has become the fastest selling item. And so on. As buyers keep this in mind, plan your drops into your boutiques and look to building your customer base. Not everyone wants to buy high street. Lots of women love personal service and that is what independent boutiques score on. Also, never take anything for granted: nothing stands still and you have to keep your eyes wide open.
decided to venture into the bridal industry and set up my own business. In my early 20s I did have a dream to set up my own shop, but the catalyst was an underwhelming shopping experience with my friend Michelle who was a bride-to-be at the time. I have made five-star customer service central to all we do at Pink Confetti. In my mind, it’s very simple. I want to treat customers the way I would like to be treated myself. Following the success of Pink Confetti home parties, selling handbags and fashion accessories, I made the move into bridal and opened the shop in 2010. From the brainstorming coffee with Michelle, it was a 10-week turnaround to set up and open the shop. The past six years have been a steep learning curve but one from which we have learned a lot and been recognised for our achievements: we were recently awarded the 5 Star Customer Service Award by the Guides for Brides national online directory for the second year running. Establishing a point of difference is critical in order to compete. I have always maintained that the customer experience will be a defining characteristic but I have also endeavoured to carve
out a niche of supporting British manufacturers and designers. I found Nicola Anne, one of our bestselling labels, by chance while visiting one of my jewellery suppliers and I have sought to maintain that theme of carrying exclusively British designers. As I am sure many retailers will agree, cash flow is a major challenge, especially when our garments have such a high retail price. Another hurdle we have to contend with is the excess samples left over at the end of line. Space is money and I have teamed up with fellow local retailers to hold combined sample sales, which works really well. Working with our network of local retailers is something which I have always felt strongly about; we also get involved with many charity events and will shortly be hosting a Macmillan fundraising catwalk show at a hotel in the village. Running my own shop has always been my dream and winning a national award for doing so has been a major highlight. The other highlight is being part of a bride’s special day and the sense of satisfaction we gain from seeing the photographs and hearing their stories. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk
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London-based digital fashion destination SilkFred.com has seen a 400 per cent sales increase as a result of a crowdfunding campaign. Tom Bottomley gets the inside track on the route to success from the brand’s CEO and former London Business Awards finalist Emma Watkinson. Tom Bottomley: What is your background? Emma Watkinson: I have always had a keen interest in fashion; while studying English at the University of Liverpool I grew my knowledge of retail through extensive experience on the shopfloor at Whistles. Following graduation, I moved to Spain to work in buying, merchandising and management at a boutique luxury retail chain called Alta Moda, overseeing a team of 20 sales staff at the age of 24, before heading to New York for editorial experience interning at fashion magazines. It was during my time in New York that the desire to return to retail became apparent. I moved back to the UK and joined luxury online boutique my-wardrobe.com, working with the buying and merchandising teams. Here I developed specialist accuracy in identifying product trends, noticing that smaller independent brands had no clear route to market, and in late 2011 left to start SilkFred.com. TB: Where did the SilkFred name come from and when did you launch? EW: Our initial idea was to call it ‘SilkThread’, because it related to fashion and also ‘thread’ connoted a like-minded community. We then decided to change it to SilkFred because it sounded quirkier, unique and also it gave us flexibility to define our brand culture as we grew. We launched in January 2012.
EMMA WATKINSON CO-FOUNDER AND CEO SILKFRED.COM
TB: How have you seen the business grow and what have you done to advance this? EW: We started with 10 brands selling through the SilkFred marketplace. Today there are over 290, of which 60 signed up between November 2015 and the end of February 2016. We have independent brands including Dancing Leopard, Oh My Love, Quontum and Never Fully Dressed just to give a taste, but all in all it’s an unrivalled choice of unique designs in one place. Brands are carefully selected for their distinctive designs, their independent approach to retail and desirable price point. We would eventually like to scale up to a couple of thousand brands.
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TB: What is an average consumer spend? EW: Our typical spend by a shopper on the site is between £20 and £80. In 2015 we turned over £2.65m which was 500 per cent growth from 2014. In January 2016, which is traditionally a slow month, we managed to beat the previous month. Our shoppers are very active on social media and how we communicate with our shoppers is core to how we operate. I think our honest, engaging approach, along with our constantly refreshed product lines, has fuelled a lot of our growth. TB: How would you best describe your business model? EW: Brands can list their products to sell on SilkFred. It does not cost a retailer to list, but SilkFred will take a 25 per cent cut of the price of each item sold. About 80 per cent of our business is done this way because partnerships with brands are at the core of the business. The other 20 per cent of what is sold we buy in at wholesale. TB: Have you brought any real innovations to the marketplace? EW: Our partnership approach with brands is very distinctive. We are supportive, share data and empower the brands we work with to create truly sustainable businesses. As a result of this, we are able to provide shoppers with clothes that are fashion forward yet commercial and different to what’s on the high street. TB: Did the business initially have a large investment or have you sought one since? If so, how and who from? EW: We started to build a business plan in early 2011. We were funded £150,000 seed money from three investors in May 2011, and I handed in my notice at my-wardrobe the day we received confirmation the investment was going through. The second fundraise was via online crowdfunding platform Crowdcube. We had built the technology, brought some brands on board and we raised £145,000 to invest in marketing and growing the business. We have since raised further funding and continue to grow the business.
TB: How do you manage to stand out from all the other big online players? EW: Our approach is fun, accessible and we don’t take ourselves too seriously. We have a demand driven approach to selling, which means we test, test and test and it’s the shoppers who decide what we buy. Top performing categories at the moment are dresses and jumpsuits. TB: What is your unique selling point that keeps customers coming back for more? EW: SilkFred.com cuts through the noise of online shopping, standing out from the crowd and providing a central destination for shoppers to find original yet affordable pieces that their friends won’t have. TB: How do you stay one step ahead of the competition? EW: We’re constantly challenging ourselves. On the wall at SilkFred HQ is the motto: ‘If everything seems under control, you’re not going fast enough.’ We’re a young company, but growing quickly. We ask questions and encourage the entire team to contribute to every aspect of the business. I want people to question what they’re doing every single day. TB: Where is the business based and what is the set-up in terms of staff, offices and warehousing? EW: We currently employ 30 staff. In early 2014 there were just six of us, so it’s exciting to see the team grow. We have awesome offices in the Old Truman Brewery on Brick Lane which is such a cool area for a business like ours. We’ve been in the Brewery since early 2014, and we’ve had to upgrade to bigger offices three times since. We also have a warehouse in Essex. TB: How are you planning to further grow your business over this year and the next? EW: Online fashion retail is still only a very young market. It’s easy to forget that because so much has changed rapidly in a short period of time. The market is exploding and the opportunity for SilkFred to expand into new territories, and leverage new and innovative retail channels is huge.
WHERE FASHION COMES TOGETHER
SPRING BEGINNINGS AT MODA WOMAN Building on the new-look concept introduced earlier this year, Moda Woman returns to the NEC on 7-9 August with a fresh take on spring style. Taking place alongside sister shows Moda Footwear and Moda Lingerie & Swimwear, Moda Woman is the essential date of the season for buying across the sectors of s/s 17. —
MODA WOMAN At the heart of the fashion industry, Moda Woman brings together the spectrum of womenswear in an inspiration style showcase. New arrivals this season include Vilagallo, Orientique, Isabell and Polarbear and Frank Lyman (pictured).
MODA WHITE Directional and contemporary, White is the platform of choice for the womenswear sector’s leading labels. New arrivals and welcome returns this season include Ronen Chen, Pink Planet, La Gauchita, L’Argentina, Fuego, Ananke, Camelot, Alba Lazari and Aventures des Toiles (pictured).
7—9 AUGUST 2016 NEC BIRMINGHAM
MODA-UK.CO.UK
7—9 AUGUST 2016
MODA ACCESSORIES Offering a wealth of potential for cross-sector buying, Moda Accessories presents an essential collection of handbags, jewellery, hats and scarves to complement this season’s offer. New arrivals this season include Passigatti, Bessie London and Batucada (pictured). Moda Accessories will also play host once again to its popular Adorned platform – the destination for contemporary and unique accessories labels.
MODA LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR Summer is beach season at Moda Lingerie & Swimwear, and a wealth of swimwear labels will unveil their latest collections this August. Ale by Alessandra, Antigel, Huit, Lidea, Hot Honi Swim, Miraclesuit, Maryan Beachwear, South Beach and Watercult are just some of the latest signings at this season’s show.
MODA FOOTWEAR Moda is the perfect place to find footwear labels such as Högl, Peter Kaiser, Pedro Miralles and Birkenstock to complement the season’s key womenswear trends, . Boutique – the plaza for contemporary and fashion brands – will return following its debut last season, while new arrivals include Ecco, Nina New York, Nicola Sexton, Cirqus and Emu Australia (pictured).
MODA NOIR As the UK’s home of eveningwear, occasion and prom attire, Moda Noir gets spring off to a spectacular start, with new arrivals including Gabriela Sanchez and Ariella. Carla Ruiz makes a welcome return alongside the best of UK and international special occasion labels including Veromia Occasions, Dress Code, John Charles, Mascara and Ronald Joyce.
For the full and comprehensive brand list – and details of how to register for your free ticket – visit www.moda-uk.co.uk
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Style File
The hottest brands not to miss this month t GLOBAL TRAVELLER Luxury scarf designer Celia Gould has unveiled her a/w 16 collection which centres around prints and designs based on photographs she took during her global travels, from the reds and golds of a stained glass window in a Buddhist temple in Myanmar to the muted greens on the rooftops of Jerusalem City. All scarves are available in silk chiffon and satin, as well as beautifully light cotton-lined versions to give more volume and warmth.
q LIKE MOTHER, LIKE DAUGHTER UK fashion brand Lucypeachslice has unveiled its expanded Plaza collection for s/s 16, which now includes styles for women that coordinate with the girls’ line. This season’s collection takes its inspiration from designer Emma Prigmore’s photographs taken in New York City’s iconic Plaza Hotel to create an original print. The brand’s styles meet the Organic Textile Standards certification (GOTS) and are known for their quirky prints and architectural details.
BAGS OF STYLE Lifestyle brand Accha’s Geometric Collection Dhurrie Clutches feature bold graphic patterns and are luxuriously finished with suede piping. Founded by Maritzina Slater, the brand’s ethos revolves around the concepts of ‘Living’, ‘Wearing’ and ‘Giving’ which inform each collection.
t TROPICAL FEVER Closet London is saying “Aloha” this summer with its latest collection centred around floral motifs and tropical patterns. The range sets the scene for a paradise sunset with exotic prints, bright stripes and bold colours. Casual silhouettes such as wrap dresses, oversized shirts and pleated skirts are among the key pieces.
p SPRING IN THE STEP Footwear brand Geox has once again stepped up for spring/summer with a range of stylish sandals and casual trainers that incorporate innovative technology developed in its in-house laboratories. Not only on-trend, but also comfortable and ultra wearable, this season’s styles have already become bestsellers in stores across the globe.
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Block party Scoring high in the fashion stakes without sacrificing practicality, block heel shoes are well-suited to s/s 16’s peep toe and sandal styles. WWB picks the top items available for in-store delivery now. 04/
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1/ SHELLYS LONDON £40 020 3728 9988 • 2/ JESSICA WRIGHT FOOTWEAR £21.99 020 7739 0398 3/ KAT MACONIE price on request 020 7403 0002 • 4/ RUBY SHOO £19.95 01992 769612 5/ LULU HUN £12.50 020 7511 6224 • 6/ JUJU £10 01604 718604 7/ SENSO price on request 0061 2935 63339 • 8/ LOST INK price on request 020 3728 7766 Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale
28/ P R O F I L E / P A U L & J O E wwb-online.co.uk
A
cut above Chic Parisian brand Paul & Joe celebrates the 20th anniversary of its womenswear line this year, and with a new flagship shop on Mayfair’s Bruton Street – which opened at the tail end of 2015 – as well as a fresh focus on UK wholesale, there’s plenty for founder Sophie Mechaly to talk about, writes Tom Bottomley.
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Created in 1996, Paul & Joe’s womenswear rise to fashion fame was swift, with the main women’s line featuring on the official calendar of Paris Fashion Week since 1998. Advertising campaigns appeared in the best French and international fashion magazines, and the younger line, Paul & Joe Sister, as well as cosmetics, eyewear, and multiple and varied collaborations have all risen and grown over the years. Sophie Mechaly launched Paul & Joe, named after her two sons, when her parents sold their Le Garage shirt brand that she had grown up with. She says: “When I was a child I was often at the design studio with them. I watched them work so hard. Then, when they sold the brand, I was very sad as I wanted to keep working on its journey. So I retrieved the fabrics left by Le Garage, and I started Paul & Joe. My parents taught me everything, from management to design. My mother was always by my side, and still is.” Mechaly started designing shirts for men in 1995, but then became more interested in womenswear. Paul & Joe became its own global brand with different lines and collaborations. A unique lifestyle offer was always the aim. “The first 10 years were crazy,” she offers. “With lots of clients coming from all over the world. And in 2001, five years after the creation of Paul & Joe, I opened my first stores in London, Tokyo and Paris.” Last year marked the opening of a Mayfair flagship shop for the brand at 28 Bruton Street, which has always been an appealing proposition for Mechaly. She says that lately they have been restructuring the UK market, with a showroom in London to distribute the brand’s lines, mostly to independent retailers in the regions. “But we have also closed some doors to give priority to the Bruton Street shop,” she says. “Of course Harrods remains a major international reference, and we are in discussion with the key department stores as they are very interested in our playful, fresh and feminine collections which are back on trend after some years where the ‘rock’ style dominated.” Interestingly, Mechaly says they now consider the UK the most strategic market in Europe, hence the opening of the new London shop, showroom and fresh impetus on strengthening the e-commerce side in the UK, through Paul & Joe’s own website, as well as with Net-a-Porter, and ASOS for the Paul & Joe Sister offer. “I have always loved the British style and energy, and London is always a source of inspiration,” she says. For the 20th anniversary, Paul & Joe has created 20 women’s shirts with iconic prints, which in many ways pay tribute to Mechaly’s parent and their original Le Garage brand, with Japanese print influences at the fore. “We also celebrated the 20th anniversary at Bus Palladium, a notorious nightclub in Paris where I used to go in the 90s and my favourite place to party in the city,” she says. “I was surrounded by my family, my extended family, the Paul & Joe team and close friends. Bus Palladium maintains that cool 70s atmosphere that we love at Paul & Joe, with music that makes you want to dance the night away with champagne flowing.” As a global lifestyle brand, Paul & Joe has three lines of readyto-wear, as well as accessories, Paul & Joe Femme, Paul & Joe Sister and Paul & Joe Homme. It has also developed a very successful eyewear offer – the number two brand in France after Chanel. There is a home textiles line with Madura, and a line of lingerie and beachwear is launching for spring/summer 17. The Paul & Joe cosmetics range has also been hugely successful for nearly 15 years. “I also now feel ready to create a fragrance to reflect the values of our brand,” reveals Mechaly.
With new projects to work on all the time, Mechaly also talks of exciting collaborations with the likes of Aigle, Converse, Warner, Starbucks and “a beautiful collection we will be launching with Eastpak for s/s17. Every day is different and I am so happy to have on board some very loyal people who share the same passion and vision.” Today the brand has 35 stores worldwide, and is now mostly expanding in Asia, China, Japan, Korea and Taiwan, all very strong markets for Paul & Joe fashion, accessories and cosmetics. The brand also has also some developments and stores in the Gulf region. In Europe, Paul & Joe mostly has stores in Paris (a mix of standalone stores and concessions), but the store Mechaly is the most proud of so far is the new Bruton Street flagship in London. She comments: “It has a brand new concept which reflects our new direction and encapsulates all categories and where all lines are distributed. It’s a really beautiful store in which there is a unique shopping experience.” Mechaly considers bricks and mortar stores to still be highly important to the business and the brand’s growth strategy. She says: “From the very first store which opened in 2001, I have conceived the Paul & Joe stores as apartments where people can feel comfortable and where my clothes can live. In the new store concept, which we have designed with Christophe Delcourt, this follows the same idea. The materials are the same as in my current apartment, that he has also decorated, and the fixtures are the same as in my closet.” Moving forward, Mechaly says they have a lot of projects in China and Korea, but she would love to open a store in New York soon. “I opened my first store in New York in September 2001 in Soho,” – thus having the misfortune of coinciding with the 9/11 terror attacks – “It was a very bad moment, as you can imagine. Since then I have been very reluctant to go back, but I am ready again now.” Despite talk of more shop openings, Mechaly is fully aware that e-business is the future. It’s a model Paul & Joe is investing in considerably, with the objective to create an online business in China, the world’s largest market for e-commerce. Paul & Joe’s current e-business is growing by 40 per cent each year. Says Mechaly: “Last autumn/winter, we started operating online in the UK and this summer we started to sell to the US market. We are learning every day how to be more efficient, and how to create excitement. I am a great fan of e-commerce and I have been shopping online from the very beginning of Net-a-Porter, with its founder, Natalie Massenet, being such a pioneer and a woman that I know and respect so much.” Though Mechaly believes the market is saturated with brands these days, she says that the most important thing to be successful in the long term is to be consistent and loyal to yourself, “because clients need to project themselves in a universe and lifestyle which they are familiar with and understand.” A statement in itself that could have come straight from Massenet. Launching a brand these days she admits would be tough, but reflecting on when she started Paul & Joe, she says: “It was not so easy then either, because Paul & Joe was one of those very rare brands to be positioned as ‘advanced contemporary.’ And, despite buyers loving our collections, they did not know where to put them on the shop floor as such contemporary areas did not exist back then. Now the contemporary market is oversaturated, so it is key to differentiate from the mass.” The way things are going, it seems Mechaly and her Paul & Joe brand are certainly doing just that.
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The retail
barometer
The fashion business continues to be a challenging sector, particularly in the mid to upper end of the market. However, it’s not all doom and gloom, and indies up and down the country are holding their own against the economy, the weather and the competition from the high street and online. WWB quizzes five successful indies about their trading strategies, their bread and butter brands, and that all important retailer/supplier relationship.
ANGELA WYBREW OWNER, ANGELA OF LONG MELFORD, LONG MELFORD, SUFFOLK While it can still be pretty tough for independents, we have seen an improvement in recent months. We’ve had an increase in footfall and customer spend has risen. Our ladies aren’t necessarily buying more, they just seem to be more willing to invest in key statement pieces. The internet has had huge impact on retailers like us. It’s hard to compete on price with online sellers who don’t have our overheads. Recent years have seen the closure of quite a few local independent shops – with fewer of us left, this may even be some of the reason as to why our footfall has increased. The customer mindset has also changed, in that women tend now to buy individual items that they can mix and match as opposed to entire outfits as they once did. With this in mind we carry a more eclectic mix, with key pieces from various collections interspersed with contemporary classics and high quality basics. What this means is that we need to ensure we have the necessary support from the brands we stock. Things like good stock availability within season, providing us with supporting marketing material, images for our website etc. If there’s no partnership there then, regardless of the fashionability of a line, we wouldn’t be inclined to work with them again. With the bigger brands you have the boon of a recognisable name, one that customers will know and have a good association with. Certainly we have brands that we turn to time and again because we know they deliver and because the demand is there. Joseph Ribkoff, Marc Cain, Luisa Cerano, Basler and Michele are among our mainstay performing brands. Quality has always been and will always be the primary consideration. Obviously we have to be mindful of price but you can afford to be more confident if you have the support from the brand, for instance with stock swaps and so on. A good B2B service is invaluable. One of the main things a brand can do to help its retailers is to ensure their retailers have priority in securing stock. We have heard of instances where a garment wasn’t available to the retailer through B2B, but it was on the brand’s own website – to be sold direct to the customer! In the current climate you can’t afford unconditional brand loyalty though. If a collection isn’t working for us we’ll move on and look at new brands. In fact, I like to introduce a new brand each season. It keeps things fresh and keeps us moving forward and evolving as a business. I think that while we’ll always have the online sellers, women are getting fed up of queuing in the post office to return items and are returning to actually visiting the shops. There’s nothing like really good customer service in a beautiful boutique. You can have a coffee, try it on and feel the quality of the garments you’re purchasing. If you look at the food industry, there’s been a return to quality, locally sourced produce. I think the same will be true with fashion retail. Perhaps throwaway fashion has had its day?
LUISA CERANO
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NEIL WELKER MANAGING DIRECTOR, ELLIOTTS OF LYMINGTON, LYMINGTON, HAMPSHIRE “This year has been a bit more challenging, after last year which was fantastic, but has dropped off a bit now. The weather is probably the one key thing that has the biggest impact on trading and is the one thing we cannot control in any shape or form. Also, there is generally a lot of negativity around, with the EU referendum and a lot of the news coverage – either pro or anti Brexit – stoking up fears. All this has only reinforced our strategy that we have to have that focus and consistency and a crystal clear idea of who we are, who our customers are and what we’re about. This has meant that we have definitely focused more on the brands that are solid performers for us and who we have had good and lasting relationships with. Of course we also inject newness each season, but overall it is a lot more important for us to build on existing relationships with our brands. We have found that it is a lot more of a partnership now, whereas before brands tended to dictate the conditions more. Our bestselling brands continue to be the likes of Joseph Ribkoff, Gerry Weber, Olsen and Masai, which we haven’t had for that long, but which has really taken off for us. And then there are the specialist brands, like Michele and Brax, which we buy into because they do trousers tremendously well, and you need to have that specialism when it comes to form and fit and fabrics etc. They, too, do really well for us. In my opinion, the most important thing in the relationship between us and our brands is a combination of loyalty, service, the product and aftercare and support. I mean, if a label like Joseph Ribkoff is actually prepared to work with us on stock and come down here into store and help us with events and get to know our customer, then that is a very fruitful relationship indeed. The biggest challenge for us is to stay consistent and focused – and to get the footfall and the customers through the door. For that, we are very active with a loyalty programme, mailouts, phone calls and brochures, and this is working well and helps us remain the destination store that we are. And then you have the challenges that are based around external factors and have not so much anything to do with the industry itself, but things such as business rates, the introduction of the workplace pension and living wages and how we as business owners implement these – and this is a completely separate, complex chapter of retailing. But all in all, I’m cautiously optimistic and confident that the rest of the year will be good. MICHELE
“ IN MY OPINION, THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IN THE
RELATIONSHIP
BETWEEN US AND OUR BRANDS IS A
COMBINATION OF
LOYALTY, SERVICE, THE PRODUCT AND
AFTERCARE AND SUPPORT.” JOSEPH RIBKOFF
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MANDY DAWSON AMANDA FASHIONS, ASHTEAD, SURREY We’ve had a really strong first half of the year in terms of trading, and we’re very happy with how things are at the moment and are feeling very upbeat and positive. I think it’s a combination of having good, desirable product, and offering that kind of service that our ladies want and that only us indies can deliver. Service is and will always be the key factor in everything we do, and our customers know and appreciate this, which is why they keep coming back. But product is obviously also key, and I have to say that our brands have been really stepping up to the mark. The rise of e-commerce has obviously affected everyone in some way or other, but it’s my impression that people are getting a little bit sick of ordering online and buying things that don’t fit properly and then having to go through all the returns and the hassle of it. This is why we have consciously decided not to have a transactional website, as our ladies definitely still prefer to have that in-store experience. We are concentrating on our bread and butter brands, such as Emreco, Marble and Olsen, which, along with the likes of Michele, Rabe, Bianca and Just White are among our bestsellers, and have been for a long time. They are all reliable brands that deliver season after season, which is very important for us. Overall, I would say that our relationship with our brands has definitely intensified over the last few years; I think there is a mutual understanding that we need to be a partnership, and that we have to be loyal to each other and support each other. Things like support from our brands in terms of promotions, marketing, in-store events, stock swaps and top ups are all paramount for us; Bianca, for instance, are very good in that respect, allowing us to swap in-season, and Michele is a brilliant brand to work with, as they will come down for the day and do a ‘Michele day’ with us, and give us freebies or a pair of trousers for a prize draw. This all contributes to the experience we can give our customers, and I think more and more people are starting to appreciate the independent again. After all, it’s nice to go into a store where the staff are helpful, friendly and knowledgeable, instead of an anonymous experience online or a faceless department store. Going forward, I feel very positive about trading; based on the current season, things are looking good and I have high hopes that this will continue.
“ I THINK THERE IS A MUTUAL
UNDERSTANDING THAT WE NEED TO BE A PARTNERSHIP, AND THAT WE HAVE TO BE LOYAL TO EACH OTHER AND SUPPORT EACH OTHER.”
RABE
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JILLIAN HART OWNER, JILLIAN HART FASHIONS, DERBY Things are good for us at the moment, though factors such as the weather, economy and the general mood of the public are eternal factors that affect consumer spend and our sector. One of the biggest changes we have noticed of late is that customers tend to buy more in-season and react more to the weather and general trends. As an indie, my relationship with my suppliers is therefore more important than ever, and it’s all about a mutual partnership. A lot of my brands will support us with fashion shows or local advertising, and they allow us to order in-season and instantly refresh our stock, which is so hugely important. I feel that the big and established brands are particularly good at this, and we have very good, long-standing relationships with brands such as Joseph Ribkoff, Gerry Weber, Frank Walder, Michele, Lucia, Sommermann and Gina Bacconi, Lucia, Rabe and NYDJ, which are all performing really well for us and are constantly among our bestsellers. I think it boils down to the fact that these brands offer great styles, good fit, have good colour ranges and always update themselves, while also being suitable to all ages. And of course they are great to work with and offer flawless quality, which are two of the most important aspects in the indie/brand relationship. In today’s climate, personal, long-standing relationships with your brands are particularly important; the brand loyalty to us as retailers, but also vice versa. As independents we are unique, and we are needed to offer something different. I think we will thrive as we are becoming fewer, so the bigger independents like ourselves will become stronger. As long as we provide new and exciting products, and service, we will find more customers who are disappointed with the high street and who will find us.
HILARY SHEPHERD OWNER, MAUREEN COOKSON, WHALLEY, LANCASHIRE For us the start of the year and into the spring/summer season was different to normal as we are still suffering the after-effects of the floods the town experienced a few months ago. They affected many of the businesses here and we sustained a lot of damage. We are slowly recovering, and if anything, it has brought the local businesses together more and we work more collaboratively together. The biggest impact on us as independents is the constant discounting from the high street. It has completely changed the shopper mentality and hardly anyone is prepared to pay full price for anything these days. But all you can do is hold firm, which is what we are doing, and so far, this seems to be the right strategy for us. As an indie you always have to move on, and over the last few years we have completely reinvented ourselves with the introduction of our delicatessen Benedicts, and turned ourselves into more of a lifestyle destination. We introduced a few younger brands such as White Stuff, B-Young and Goose Island in addition to our core brand portfolio. We also changed our occasionwear department with less focus on weddings and more on events and general eventwear, as we hear again and again from our customers that they want to wear things again. So we have reviewed our offer and this has also proved successful. The relationship with suppliers has always been important, and there are brands that we have been stocking for years, such as Eugen Klein or Gerry Weber, but we always pepper it with new and fresh labels. Specialist brands such as the trouser houses, such as Anna Montana or Michele are always strong, and I tend to buy into them season after season, and without wanting to isolate any particular brands as our bestsellers, I’m confident to say that I’m very comfortable with my current brand portfolio. Support by brands is important, but at the end of the day the collection itself has to be strong; when I’m out buying, I think of myself as the customer, and if a collection doesn’t grab me and doesn’t make me want to walk onto an exhibition stand, then I walk away, because it will have that same effect on my customers. For me, the biggest challenge as an independent is to remind consumers out there about the high street and bricks and mortar shops. I’m guilty of it too; it’s all too easy to go online or on Amazon and just order something, but at the end of the day, nothing beats a great shopping experience in-store. And us indies do it best.
EMRECO
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The HKTDC Hong Kong Fashion Week
The 23rd edition of HKTDC Hong Kong Fashion Week for spring/summer will take place from 4-7 July 2016, unveiling brand new womenswear, knitwear, fashion tech and footwear zones.
THOMAS KUNG
BETH W STAFFORD
The 23rd edition of HKTDC Hong Kong Fashion Week for spring/summer will take place from 4-7 July 2016 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, with both womenswear and knitwear making their debut in new zones to optimise buyers’ sourcing selection. The premium fair is expected to attract around 1,200 global exhibitors, while the previous edition welcomed 16,000 buyers from 65 countries and regions. Private labels have become increasingly effective marketing tools among fashion industry players to differentiate and upgrade the image of products. Emporium de Mode is a dedicated premium section designed to promote elegant fashion brands. Fashion Gallery, meanwhile, is an ideal platform to display brand labels and high-fashion labels, while the International Fashion Designers’ Showcase highlights unique designers for potential clients. The zoning of the Hong Kong Fashion Week for spring/summer will be fine-tuned to the four major categories of Apparel, Upstream Supplies, Fashion Accessories and Business Matching, with footwear, leggings and socks, eyewear, hair accessories and headwear, belts and ties, and embroidery offering a one-stop platform to cater for the buyers’ demands. Other popular zones will return, including Activewear & Sportswear, Intimate Wear, Infant & Childrenswear, Men in Style and Fabrics & Yarn. Qualified exhibitors will be awarded a ‘Green Solution Suppliers’ insignia on their booth fascia to address the growing demand for eco-friendly apparel. Meanwhile, the Chinese mainland market continues to be a driving force for the Hong Kong fashion industry. As of 29 Feb 2016, Hong Kong’s total exports of clothing and clothing accessories to the mainland and Macau rose 2.2 per cent and 8.8 per cent respectively to $1.42bn and $504m. According to HKTDC’s research, mainland consumers generally find Hong Kong clothing brands trendsetting, fashionable and tasteful. They are willing to pay an average premium of 36 per cent to purchase Hong Kong branded
KEVIN HO
garments. Hong Kong Fashion Week for spring/summer serves as an effective springboard for traders to expand their business in mainland and Asian markets. “This fair is the right place for us to gain exposure to meet buyers,” says Martens Yiu, Managing Director of Deut St. Limited which is expanding into the Chinese market. “Buyers from the mainland and Australia are especially keen to source from us.” Stationed in Hong Kong, Deut St. Limited has been an exhibitor at Hong Kong Fashion Week for spring/summer for three consecutive years, reflecting its confidence in HKTDC’s marketing platform for business promotion. The four-day event will welcome a series of fashion house shows and runway parades alongside the Fashion Week to reinforce Hong Kong’s position as the Asian fashion trendsetter. HKTDC offers business matching services, networking receptions, seminars and buyer forums during the fair, providing a perfect platform for industry players to exchange market intelligence and explore new business opportunities. WGSN and Fashion Snoops have been invited to talk about trends in the market, while the SmallOrder Zone is available for buyers sourcing from five to 1,000 pieces. It is also online at small-order.hktdc.com. — HKTDC Hong Kong Fashion Week for spring/summer Fair Date: 4-7 July 2016 (Mon-Thu) Venue: Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Admission: Trade only. Visitors under 18 will not be admitted. For further information please visit www.hktdc.com/ex/hkfashionweekss/30
S CO O P I N T E R NAT I O NA L LO N D O N 2 4 . – 2 6 . J U LY · O L D B I L L I N G S G AT E S H OW RO O M S WO R L DW I D E
LUISA CERANO SHOWROOM GROUND FLOOR/56 WELLS STREET W1T 3PT LONDON PHONE +44 (0) 207 323 6100 MOBILE +44 (0) 7867 425 111 SHARON.JONES@LUISACERANO.COM HEAD OFFICE LUISA CERANO GMBH WEBERSTRASSE 1 72622 NÜRTINGEN · GERMANY PHONE +49(0)7022/705-140 INFO@LUISACERANO.DE WWW.LUISACERANO.COM
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Exhibition
calendar The key shows for s/s 17 at a glance.
HONG KONG JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR 23-26 June 2016 Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong 0085 2251 62192 www.ubmasia.com — The s/s 17 edition of Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair features around 2,300 exhibitors from around the world. A wide range of jewellery and gemstone products are on offer at the June show. This year, the fair will coincide with The Mineral, Gem and Fossil Asia event, which will be held over the same dates.
TRANOI: MEN’S WOMEN’S PRE-COLLECTIONS 25-27 June 2016 Cité de la Mode et du Design 34, quai d’Austerlitz, 75013 Paris Palais de la Bourse 28, place de la Bourse, 75002 Paris 0033 1530 18490 www.tranoi.com — Joining the fashion calendar three years ago, the pre-collection edition of Tranoi Paris was created to meet the demands of changes to buying trends. Primarily the show is in place for designers to show four collections each year as opposed to what has historically been two main collections. The second edition of Tranoi Parfums will also coincide with the event, showcasing more than 30 niche perfume and fragrance brands.
Sponsored by:
WHITE 18-20 June 2016 Via Tortona 27, 20144 Milan 0039 2345 92785 www.whiteshow.it — SHOW&ORDER 27-29 June 2016 Kraftwerk Berlin-Mitte Köpenicker Str. 70 10179 Berlin 0049 3057 704181 www.showandorder.com — BRIGHT 28-30 June 2016 Am Flutgraben, 12435 Berlin 0049 6966 962157 www.brighttradeshow.com — SEEK 28-30 June 2016 Eichenstrasse 4, 12435 Berlin 0049 3020 8891 3400 www.seekexhibitions.com —
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FASHION SVP 28-29 June 2016 Olympia Exhibition Centre, London 020 8771 3555 www.fashionsvp.com — Fashion SVP is held over two days at Olympia, London, and is designed for brands and retailers buying directly from factories. The international sourcing exhibition provides visitors with the opportunity to meet more than 100 fashion producers offering ‘near-shore’ manufacturing services from Europe, Eastern Europe and the Mediterranean regions. Apart from the exhibition, the show will provide a conference programme, which is free to all visitors. During the event visitors can obtain the latest information on sourcing, evaluate potential new suppliers and network with other professionals in the industry.
PANORAMA BERLIN 28-30 June 2016 ExpoCenter City, Berlin 0049 3027 5956040 www.panorama-berlin.com — For the s/s 17 showcase, Panorama will see more than 700 leading fashion and lifestyle brands show at the event. The international fashion trade show is one of the anchors of Berlin Fashion Week, with more than 50,000 buyers and fashion professionals attending the show each season. Key areas include Nova Concept, a platform for trendsetting fashion and curated lifestyle products.
PREMIUM 28-30 June 2016 Station-Berlin, Luckenwalder Strasse, Berlin 0049 3062 90850 www.premiumexhibitions.com — Premium will play host to over 1,000 brands and 1,800 collections over an area of 33,000 sq m this show season, presenting its offering of fashion and lifestyle products. Attracting buyers from around the world, the Berlin-based show’s portfolio includes 30 per cent new brands in its exhibitions each season, as well as integrating new concepts and including established brands such as Birkenstock, Harris Wharf London, Wood Wood, See by Chloé and Steffen Schraut.
HONG KONG FASHION WEEK 4-7 July 2016 Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong www.hktdc.com 00852 183 0668 MODEFABRIEK 10-11 July 2016 Amsterdam RAI Europaplein 8, 1078 GZ Amsterdam 0031 2044 21960 www.modefabriek.nl — THE LONDON TEXTILE FAIR 13-14 July 2016 The Business Design Centre, Islington, London N1 020 8347 8145 www.thelondontextilefair.co.uk — LONDON SWIMWEAR SHOW 17-19 July 2016 Radisson Blu Portman Hotel, London W1H www.londonswimwearshow.com — PROJECT NEW YORK 17-19 July 2016 Jacob Javits Center, New York 001 218 740 7092 www.magiconline.com — SUPREME 23-26 July 2016 Bennigsen Platz 1 Kaiserswertherstraße/Ecke Karl-Arnold-Platz 40474 Düsseldorf 0049 8942 04479 www.munichfashioncompany.com — GDS 26-28 July 2016 Messe Düsseldorf 0049 2114 5607606 www.gds-online.com —
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INDIA INTERNATIONAL GARMENT FAIR 18-20 July 2016 Pragati Maidan, New Delhi 0091 1242 708027 www.indiaapparelfair.com — As one of the largest and oldest apparel sourcing destinations in India, the 57th edition of India International Garment Fair will host more than 400 exhibitors from around the world. This year will see the introduction of an e-catalogue displaying new styles during the fair. The event – which focuses on showcasing contemporary design – is organised by the Apparel Export Promotion Council.
PURE LONDON 24-26 July 2016 Olympia, London 020 3033 2015 www.purelondon.com — This season’s new theme, A Life Less Ordinary, will express culture and beliefs through inspiring design. Also new this season is the launch of Inside Retail, a retail lab designed for learning and networking events. Seminar content will be provided by key industry speakers as well as independent retailers, offering buyers valuable insights on how to survive and thrive on the high street.
SCOOP AND THE CITY 24-26 July 2016 Old Billingsgate, London 020 7596 5154 www.scoop-international.com — This summer, for one season only, Scoop will take up residence at London’s riverside location, Old Billingsgate. Scoop and Scoop London will come together this season to present one event: Scoop and the City. Fusing together fashion and art, the show will maintain its original focus and will return to the Saatchi Gallery in 2017. The contemporary designer tradeshow will present over 200 exhibitors at the showcase this summer.
INDX WOMENSWEAR & FOOTWEAR 3-5 August 2016 Cranmore Park, Solihull 0121 713 4453 www.indxshow.co.uk — MODA LINGERIE & SWIMWEAR 7-9 August 2016 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk — MODA ACCESSORIES 7-9 August 2016 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk — CIFF 10-12 August 2016 Bella Center, Copenhagen 0045 3252 8811 www.ciff.dk — CAPSULE LAS VEGAS 15-17 August 2016 The Venetian Ballroom, 3355 S Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas 001 212 206 8310 www.capsuleshow.com — MAGIC 15-17 August 2016 Las Vegas Convention Centre and the Mandalay Bay Convention Centre, Las Vegas 0031 0857 7500 www.magiconline.com — CPM MOSCOW 31 August-3 September 2016 Expocentre Fairgrounds, Moscow 0049 2114 39601 www.cpm-moscow.com —
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MODA WOMAN 7-9 August 2016 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk — Moda Woman is the UK’s national trade event for womenswear. The show presents forward order collections across the full spectrum of the industry from eveningwear to contemporary women’s fashion. There are also specific areas for in-season on-trend brands (Moda Loves) and niche, undiscovered labels (Moda Edit). The show takes place adjacent to sister shows Moda Gent, Moda Footwear, Moda Accessories and Moda Lingerie & Swimwear. A wealth of new signings this season includes Frank Lyman, Pink Planet, Fuego and L’Argentina.
MODA FOOTWEAR 7-9 August 2016 NEC, Birmingham 01484 846069 www.moda-uk.co.uk — Moda Footwear is the UK’s national trade event for footwear. The show presents forward order collections across the full spectrum of the industry including men’s, women’s and children’s collections. There is also a specific platform, Boutique, for contemporary women’s fashion labels, which targets womenswear buyers and footwear visitors alike. The show takes place adjacent to sister shows Moda Gent, Moda Woman, Moda Accessories and Moda Lingerie & Swimwear. Globally renowned Danish footwear label Ecco will make its show debut this season.
REVOLVER 10-12 August 2016 Meatpacking District, Tietgensgade 65, Copenhagen 0045 39648586 www.revolver.dk — Copenhagen trade show Revolver has joined forces with Milan-based exhibition WHITE for the s/s 17 showcase. WHITE will be present at Revolver during the event with a dedicated space showcasing 15 Italian fashion brands. The project will aim to increase international awareness of the two tradeshows, while creating a bridge between two cultures. Elsewhere at the show, a raft of contemporary Scandinavian and designer driven fashion brands as well as labels from outside the region will also be in attendance.
PREMIERE CLASSE 2-5 September 2016 Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 1401 37483 www.premiere-classe.com — BIJORHCA 2-5 September 2016 Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, Paris 0033 0147 565282 www.bijorhca.com — MICAM 3-6 September 2016 Fiera Milano, Milan 0039 0243 8291 www.themicam.com — LONDONEDGE 4-6 September 2016 Business Design Centre, Upper Street, London 0116 289 8249 www.londonedge.com — PREMIERE VISION PARIS 13-15 September 2016 Parc des Expositions, Paris Nord-Villepinte, Paris 0033 1703 87030 www.premierevision.com — CAPSULE NEW YORK 17-19 September 2016 Pier 94, 711 12th Ave, New York 001 212 206 8310 www.capsuleshow.com —
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WHO’S NEXT 2-5 September 2016 Parc Des Expositions, Porte De Versailles, Paris 0033 1401 37483 www.whosnext-tradeshow.com — This season’s edition of Who’s Next reflects a Mediterranean theme. Taking inspiration from the history, culture, architecture and landscape of the Mediterranean, the aesthetic of the show will centre around themes including holidays and the sun. French and international ready-to-wear collections are assembled across five different areas: Fame, Private, Trendy, Urban and Studio. Brands showing for the first time include Cortana, Giorgia & Johns and Handred.
MOMAD METROPOLIS 9-11 September 2016 IFEMA Convention & Congress Centre, Madrid 0034 9172 23000 www.momad.metropolis.ifema.es — Momad Metropolis and Momad Shoes will coincide at Madrid’s exhibition centre along with other fashion and accessory trade events, hosting a combined total of approximately 2,800 exhibitors and an expected visitor attendance of over 60,000. Momad Metropolis will bring together 850 labels, showcasing men’s, women’s and kids. Yet again the show is expected to attract an international crowd, which comprised 10.7 per cent of the turnout for last season’s edition.
LONDON FASHION WEEK 16-20 September 2016 Brewer Street Car Park, London 020 7759 1990 www.londonfashionweek.co.uk — London Fashion Week takes place twice a year in February and September, showcasing over 250 designers to a global audience of media and retailers. For the s/s 17 presentation, the show maintains its location in the heart of Soho. The provisional show schedule will be announced during July 2016.
FASHION ACCESS 22-24 September 2016 Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong 0085 2282 76211 www.fashionaccess.aplf.com — SUPER 24-26 September 2016 Pavilion 3 at Fiera Milano City, Milan 0039 0553 693223 www.pittimmagine.com — TRANOI PARIS: WOMEN’S 30 September-3 October 2016 Cité de la Mode et du Design 34, quai d’Austerlitz, 75013 Paris Palais de la Bourse 28, place de la Bourse, 75002 Paris Carrousel du Louvre 99, rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris 0033 1530 18490 www.tranoi.com — CHIC SHANGHAI 11-13 October 2016 National Exhibition & Convention Centre, Shanghai 0049 2113 026 4337 www.chiconline.com.cn — BRAND LICENSING EUROPE 11-13 October 2016 Olympia, London W14 www.brandlicensing.eu — MAROC IN MODE 19-20 October 2016 Parc Expo Circuit Marrakech 00212 5229 42084 www.marocinmode.ma —
MODERN ELEGANCE
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CELEBRATING 40 YRS PICADILLY.CA Apt…Collections T: 00 44 207 580 3202 Showing from: 18th July until 19th August
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At the source
Leading manufacturing show Fashion SVP is set to open its doors later this month, showcasing some of the world’s best garment producers from near-shore territories. Catering for both high volume players as well as bespoke and individual orders from independent retailers, the show is a must-visit for anyone thinking of launching their own fashion label.
The UK’s leading sourcing show Fashion SVP will open its doors for the fifth time from 28 to 29 June at London’s Olympia. Established in 2011, the show has grown rapidly since its inception and now welcomes more than 100 carefully selected garment and accessory manufacturers from 15 countries. The growing popularity and significance of the show is attributed to its focus on near-shore production, with exhibitors from countries such as Turkey, Egypt, Portugal, Italy, Romania, Spain, France and not least the UK itself showcasing their manufacturing capabilities and expertise. “Fashion SVP is the fastest growing fashion trade event in the UK, if not Europe, with 40 per cent growth year on year,” says event director Buzz Carter. “With brands producing more and more collections a year, near-shore sourcing has proved increasingly popular thanks to the obvious benefits such as a reduction in lead times, a shorter supply chain and ultimately lower costs, so a lot of brands are now looking closer to home to meet their production needs. “Fashion SVP brings together top quality manufacturers from across the near-shore territories all under one roof, enabling visitors to source directly from some of the best producers in the world, as well as connect with experts in this field and tap into the huge knowledge and skillset they can offer,” he adds. From high quality womenswear, menswear and childrenswear – including specialist sectors such as knitwear, jerseywear, outerwear, denim, tailoring, activewear, swimwear, lingerie, hosiery and accessories – all areas of garment production will be covered. “Our exhibitors can cater to every need, whether that is high volume production for high street players or more bespoke orders for top end designers. Equally, many of the suppliers can work with small and individual orders, which is ideal for independent retailers looking to launch their own labels at low volumes, a trend we have increasingly noticed at the show,” says Carter. Visitors will be able to explore what each of the manufacturers can offer. Ranging from simple sewing to full service garment production, this includes design services, pattern cutting, grading and sampling, plus specialist services such as embellished garment production, dye and shrinkage testing and fabric sourcing. In particular, there will be a strong presence from Turkish, Egyptian and Portugese manufacturers in special country showcases, highlighting the countries’ most skilled producers. Fashion SVP will also host a number of show features, including the popular ‘Sourcing Briefing’ seminar series, with experts representing Thomas Pink, Kit and Ace, the Ethical Fashion Forum, Harveen Gill Associates, MI Heaven Denim and
YKK Europe already confirmed for the line-up and ready to share insider knowledge on essential sourcing and production topics. New to this year’s edition is ‘Innovations Focus’, an area providing the latest news on technical and product innovation, presenting an exciting 3D printing display where visitors can learn about the impact the technology has had on fashion manufacturing to date and where this development will lead in the future. This area will include a display of 3D printed catwalk fashion, assisted by sector pioneers Electrobloom, Hobs Studios and 3D Systems. — For more information, a full exhibitor line-up or to register for the show visit www.fashionsvp.com
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Scoop
and the City For one season only, boutique trade show Scoop is swapping the Saatchi Gallery for the equally impressive Old Billingsgate, creating a special one-off edition with all the high profile labels, designers and emerging talent the show is renowned for. WWB takes a first peek at what’s in store for the s/s 17 edition.
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This summer will see Scoop taking a vacation to one of London’s historic riverside locations, Old Billingsgate, a spectacular building in the heart of the city of London. Rising from the banks of the river Thames and a few moments from Tower Bridge, this grade two listed Victorian landmark will be transformed into a fashion destination, presenting a new take on Scoop’s trademark fusion of fashion and art. The one-off move to Old Billingsgate comes as the show’s regular venue, the Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea, is hosting the Rolling Stones exhibition Exhibitionism. With the additional space afforded by the new location, both Scoop and Scoop London will be combined in one event under the motto “Scoop and the City” before both shows will return to the Saatchi Gallery on their original datelines the following season. And while the venue may be new, visitors can expect the same high G quality line-up of high-end brands and international designers that the show is renowned for, with this season’s highlights including the likes of Parisian fashion house Cacharel, fellow French label Des Petits Hauts, Diego M from Italy, quirky Portuguese footwear brand Lemon Jelly Shoes and stylish Brit labels Parka London and Primrose Park (all pictured). Further signings include France’s Toupy, Italy’s ROSSO35, Denmark’s Black Lily and Wood Wood, 27 Miles Malibu from the USA and Britain’s very own Lulu Guinness, which will be showing a range of eclectic and unique footwear. These are just some of the many exclusive collections on show, covering everything from ready-to-wear through accessories, jewellery, footwear to beachwear, perfumery and lifestyle products, creating a comprehensive portfolio of products and designers. Scoop runs 24 to 26 July at Old Billingsgate in London. For more information, pre-registration, regular updates and a full brand listing visit www.scoop-international.com or www.wwb-online.co.uk
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Berlin evolution
Not one to remain stagnant in the ever-changing world of fashion, Berlin trade show Panorama is set to unveil a series of new product areas for its s/s 17 edition, including an increased focus on shoes and accessories and the launch of a new concept, HIPSTAR – an area dedicated to the plus size industry. Jörg Wichmann, CEO of Panorama Berlin, tells WWB what’s next for the German show.
What can we expect from the upcoming edition of Panorama? After the successful launch of the NOVA CONCEPT area, we decided to restructure the core segments for the upcoming season. We will separate the segments from one another so they are clearly distinct and offer unique, target groupspecific worlds. With MODERN MAN (Hall 2), we will present an entire hall exclusively for men’s fashion. Moreover, we will present our offer for young women under the heading STYLE HUB in Hall 1. The URBAN LAB, meanwhile, will get an additional hall to present an increased offer of denim and casualwear, while COSMOPOLITAN in Hall 6 is our new area of upscale women’s fashion. What prompted this change to an already successful show? Firstly, we are inspired by the retail market, and by the buyers, who unfortunately have less and less time. We have to make the offerings and their placement within the show very clear, so that visitors can get orientated faster and see and take care of what they came here for in the first place. But since our goal is to create added value, we would like to show retailers something new to inspire them, and we hope this will give visitors more time and a chance to really see all the segments. Retail continues to be tough, both in the UK and Europe. How do you plan on inspiring and informing retailers this s/s 17 season? As a fashion trade show service company, our main task is to create a platform that presents the relevant collections together with buyer-oriented services. We consider it our task to provide inspiration and ideas that can enthuse and inspire retailers to buy into new things. This doesn’t just mean new collections, but it’s about offering alternatives, which we’re doing with NOVA CONCEPT, where we present a lifestyle arena for non-textile products.
To what extent do you think lifestyle products can fuel the fashion retail trade? Today, fashion is more than just owning the right pair of jeans or shoes. Fashion is also about having the right headphones, tea, bicycle or skateboard. As a consumer, the bricks-and-mortar retail trade needs to trigger enthusiasm and broaden your horizons; it needs to present things that are surprising but easily fit into daily life. Last season you introduced a new area exclusively for shoes and accessories. What can we expect from this area for s/s 17? Shoes and accessories are part of fashion like the air we breathe. We wanted to make that clear with a dedicated hall, which will welcome an additional hall in the coming season, fully focusing on this segment and on presenting trending topics. Could you explain more about the new area, HIPSTAR? With HIPSTAR, we present an area for plus size fashion for the first time. In Hall 7B, we have created a special world for HIPSTAR’s premiere; this segment will have 1,100 sq m with over 20 key brands. We are pleased to finally be able to fulfil a longstanding wish of our visitors and to present a portfolio of the most relevant brands in this area.
Has the launch of virtual fashion trade show Panorama Digital been a success? We are very pleased. So far, with over 60,000 visitors from around the world, the digital platform has enjoyed slightly more visitors than the three trade show days themselves. Now we will continue with the process of developing and optimising Panorama Digital. It’s an additional tool for our visitors and exhibitors, and also for us as organisers, but it doesn’t replace attending Panorama Berlin. The trade show is where business and buyers meet and people get the chance to talk. Virtual reality will never replace reality, but it will add a little something extra to the show. What else is new for the s/s 17 season? Since it’s summer, we will set up the popular Street Market again, directly in front of the main entrance. We will create a relaxed atmosphere here with live acts and other activities that will bring visitors and exhibitors together. Exchanging information is extremely important. We know that most retailers don’t necessarily feel like partying, but it is also part of our business, since fashion is an expression of joie-de-vivre and culture. Panorama Berlin will take place on 28-30 June 2016 at ExpoCenter City, 14055 Berlin.
RED&ROYAL LONDON
RED AND ROYAL, 160-162 Cheetham Hill Road, Manchester M8 8LQ T: 0161 834 6281 F: 0161 834 6282 M: 00447774 158821 E: anjan@vivirclothing.co.uk www.redandroyal.com
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Fashion forward
Berlin trade show Premium returns this month with an extensive portfolio of some of the finest designer and lifestyle brands around. From new labels to the latest technology crossovers, WWB takes a look at what this season’s edition has in store.
With more than 1,000 brands and 1,800 collections spread over an area of 33,000 sq m, Premium is one of the largest fashion and lifestyle trade shows in the international arena. Each season the show attracts around 30 per cent of new brands, with the likes of Lap Dip, allSisters, Beta Studios, Dresp, Hey Honey, Sportalm, X-Bionic, Wolfskin Tech Lab, Strenesse, Ksenia Schnaider, Chevalier by Juwelenkammer, Peter Sorensen, Swedish Hasbeens and Temple London making their show debut at this edition. Each of the brands have been carefully selected in accordance with current lifestyle movements and global trends, which are analysed by the organisers season to season. After four successful events, the #Fashiontech conference will once again seek to inform the industry about the latest developments at the interface of fashion and technology, and will be expanded to a second floor. Fashion experts, industry insiders, start-ups, designers and global players will come together to discuss potential or fresh opportunities and new business models, with the most recent event having attracted more than 3,100 participants. #Fashiontech offers an informative programme covering topics and such as ‘E-commerce & The Future of Retail’, ‘Wearable & Design’ and ‘Digital Marketing & Communication’. Start-up presentations, workshops and roundtable discussion will facilitate the exchange of ideas whilst promoting knowledge transfer and the development of new business models. Also new this season is the launch of a new Premium Group
App, which features all three platforms, Premium, Seek and Bright. With a brand new layout, new functions, user optimised navigation and services, this state-of-the-art service tool will provide buyers with all relevant information about all three shows at once and therefore make it easier for buyers to plan their stay and organise their order and working schedules. The show’s Brand Match Tool, a service which matches buyers and brands in a targeted way, is also once again available. At the point of registration, retailers are prompted to enter relevant information regarding store category, product lines, price level, styles and desired brands. This data is then analysed and saved in a personal profile, with customised choices of collections being selected by an algorithm to create an ideal selection of exhibitors. Buyers can retrieve their profiles on-site using the Premium App and can follow their personalised route through the halls of the trade show with the help of the GPS-based navigation. As part of the joint ticketing scheme, visitors also have free entry to Seek, Bright and Show & Order, as well as the Green Showroom and the Ethical Fashion Show, which are all connected by a shuttle bus network. Premium takes place from 28 to 30 June at Station Berlin, Luckenwalder Strasse 4-6. #Fashiontech takes place on 29 June at Kühlhaus, Luckenwalder Strasse 3. For more information visit www.premiumexhibitions.com and www.fashiontech.berlin
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London Swimwear Show
Taking place at London’s Radisson Blu Portman Hotel from 17-19 July, once again The London Swimwear Show welcomes key swimwear and beachwear exhibitors. WWB’s Rebecca Jackson picks the s/s 17 highlights – from bikinis and bandeaus to kaftans and kimonos. S U N S E E K E R The s/s 17 collection from Sunseeker features new camouflage patterns which are inspired by marble stone textures. A wide range of swimwear styles are available, from bikini and high neck top to cross-front halter one-pieces. Key shapes to watch out for include contemporary styled one-pieces and bikinis which are designed to appeal to all tastes. Cup sizing is a focal point for the brand, with a wide range of sizes available. E L I Z A B E T H H U R L E Y B E A C H Established in 2005, Elizabeth Hurley Beach takes influence from the jet set lifestyle for its latest collection. Stocked in independents and department stores worldwide, the London-based brand uses European Lycra to make its s/s 17 line. Available in a variety of colours, styles in the collection include bandeau, halter, pushup and underwired, with some styles offering non-padded or removable pad options. Also included is a selection of crafted one-pieces. S E A S P R A Y For s/s 17, Seaspray presents a range of swim and beachwear which takes cues from the catwalk, travel and iconic destinations. Swimsuits, bikinis, pareos, kaftans and maxi dresses are available in a range of abstract prints and floral designs. Softer fabrics and extra draping are used in the latest collection, while longer body lengths and tummy control options are core design features. C H A R M L I N E The Zebra bikini style from Charmline s/s 17 collection presents a timeless feel. A black and white zebra pattern is used to create a contrast and is available on a diagonal or as a weave option. The brand offers a range of shaping swimwear options which are available in bikini and swimsuit styles, providing wearers with a choice of shaping levels (light, medium and strong) to achieve the
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CLOVER LEWIS SWIMWEAR
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‘one size slimmer’ look. C L O V E R L E W I S S W I M W E A R The Olympians Rule collection from Clover Lewis Swimwear focuses on creating a glamorous look through vibrant colours and bold style. The swimwear was originally developed for women who have undergone breast surgeries, and presents a collection which blends fashion and functionality. Each style maintains various comfort features while also channelling a contemporary look. R O S A F A I A A casual and relaxed 70s retro vibe features in the Rosa Faia collection for s/s 17. A range of graphic designs and vibrant prints are used together with white on the same garment. Accessories include kimonos, casual trousers, transparent tunics, pareos and beach dresses. A key piece is the fringed Waya kimono, which is also designed to be worn as a cover up. F R E Y A S W I M The s/s 17 collection from Freya Swim takes influences from animal safaris, presenting a number of ethnic inspired prints. Tiger, lion and cheetah faces sit among tropical florals fused with flashes of neon. The sweetheart padded bikini top is a collection highlight, featuring lightly padded foam cups and a sweetheart neckline. Also part of the line are a twist bandeau bikini top with detachable straps, the bikini brief and the short style, all available in sizes XS-XL. M A R Y A N M E H L H O R N The s/s 17 collection from Maryan Mehlhorn introduces a wide range of vibrant prints, which sit alongside classic stripes and plain styles. Foam cups with integrated carbon support provide extra comfort without the need for an underwire. The Rocaille bikini style features a red rococo-style print with shell-like patterns against a pure white background. Delicate gradations of red make the pattern appear threedimensional, creating a stuccowork effect. F A N T A S I E S W I M Fantasie Swim introduce the Lanai style for s/s 17, which features a Japanese Shibori print in blue and white hues. Made from a soft fabric, the underwired gathered balcony bikini top is lightly padded to create a rounded shape and offer additional support. Meanwhile, the underwired plunge bikini top features a lower apex for a flattering cut and fit. Other items in the range include an underwired gathered plunge suit, tankini, low-rise brief, mid-rise brief, adjustable leg short and tunic dress. M I R A C L E S U I T Miraclesuit presents a variety of one-piece swimsuits, tankini tops and swim cover ups in its s/s 17 collection. The new range of slimming swimsuits utilises bright colours and fresh prints on styles such as the vibrant Animal Magnetism one-piece swimsuit. Swimwear styles also include added matching options, which includes sarongs and cover up tops.
MARYAN MEHLHORN
FREYA SWIM
FANTASIE SWIM
MIRACLESUIT
Mark your diary now for the largest and most exciting London Swimwear Show ever!
17-19 July 2016
Radisson Blu Portman Hotel, London A superb line up of established and designer brands accompanied by new labels such as Acoolah, Andmer, Bobbies, Emmanuela Swimwear, Forever Unique … join headline names such as Heidi Klum Swim, Jets by Jessika Allen, Stella McCartney, Gottex, Andres Sarda, Michael Kors and much much more. Further details on the show and hotel accommodation from www.londonswimwearshow.com
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LYCRA® XTRA LIFE™ is a registered trademark of INVISTA
P R E V I E W / M O D A F O O T W E A R / 53 wwb-online.co.uk
Fancy footwork WWB looks at some of the key footwear brands showing at this season’s edition of Moda, which takes place on 7-9 August 2016 at Birmingham’s NEC. SABATINE Sabatine presents an offering of classic styles and colour options, which includes navy, white, black and cream among others. Styles vary from court shoes to open toe options and stiletto heels. Fine detailing including cut-out patterns and subtle glitter sits alongside standout features such as large shiny buckles. With matching clutch bags also available, products serve as an ideal accompaniment to occasionwear outfits. RENATA Renata offers Italian made to order shoes to cater to a boutique’s requirement. All colours and heels can be changed to any leather from an extensive colour swatch, making the brand’s range of shoes and matching handbags an ideal complement to seasonal clothing. Shoes come in sizes 32-46 including half sizes. SEBAGO Both the original Sebago Classic Beefroll penny loafer and Docksides deck shoes are handsewn, maintaining the brand’s focus on craftsmanship. For s/s 17, the brand will build on its loafer and deck shoe silhouettes with the introduction of a tassel option and lighter colours in its suede offering. Meanwhile, the brand’s new C3 Cross Channel Circulation technology drains away moisture, enhancing the footwear’s performance. PEDRO MIRALLES Designed and
SABATINE
PEDRO MIRALLES
manufactured in Spain, Pedro Miralles presents trend-led styles that accompany a vast range of key colours and styles in occasionwear. With the option to specify shoe colour and material, it’s possible to create a unique item that’s rarely found in other boutiques. For s/s 17 the brand presents its Weekend collection, featuring block heels, pastel hues and natural materials. TAMARIS Tamaris’ vast collection covers a range of categories, all focusing on creating comfort through a good fit and quality materials. Items in the collection maintain insole cushioning and ‘anti-shock’ effect heels, which are made for all-day wear. For s/s 17, bright colours combine with contemporary styling in designs that are trend-led, yet will complement contemporary clothing ranging from casual styles to occasionwear. PETER KAISER German brand Peter Kaiser presents a modern aesthetic through its offering of footwear and accessories. Bright and bold colours run throughout its collections, with the latest line reflecting poolside glamour. Shoes typically come in classic shapes, varying from closed toe stiletto to block heel sandals. A wide range of classic colour options are made to match the raft of occasionwear styles on the market.
RENATA
SEBAGO
TAMARIS
PETER KAISER
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The business of fashion WWB catches up with three womenswear brands to find out the key factors for success, the ever changing marketplace and the importance of a strong USP.
ABOUT THE BRAND: ALICE’S PIG IS A NEW FASHION BRAND FROM BRIXTON IN SOUTH LONDON, INSPIRED BY VINTAGE STYLE AND ALICE IN WONDERLAND. FOUNDED IN MAY 2013 BY SIBLING DUO AMANDA AND NICOLAI, ALICE’S PIG DESIGNS ALL ITS COLLECTIONS IN LONDON AND HAS AN ADDITIONAL OFFICE IN SHANGHAI. THE BRAND IMAGE COMES FROM A LOVE FOR ALICE IN WONDERLAND, WHERE CRAZY IS NORMAL. THE NAME IS A REMINDER THAT COLLIDING STYLES AND CULTURES CAN PRODUCE SOMETHING INTERESTING AND THAT THERE CAN BE BEAUTY AND SURPRISE IN ANYTHING; EVEN IN A PIG.
AMANDA DE MELEGHY DESIGNER, ALICE’S PIG UK womenswear is constantly evolving. How does this influence your brand strategy? The UK still offers the best design education in the world. Thus, there is always new exciting talent and labels entering the market. However, the high street gets more and more boring. People seem to be play it too safe and everybody seems to be copying everybody else. Unfortunately there is also a trend that a lot of mainstream labels use cheaper and cheaper fabrics. We handpick all our fabrics and work with a textile engineer to keep the quality of the garments high. How important is delivering constant newness to a brand’s success? I don´t think it is. There´s so much noise out there (especially in the digital world) that it is hard to cut through with your own news anyway. I think it is better to create something spectacular from time to time other than constantly trying to come up with something new. Very well established brands basically tell the same stories in varied form over and over again.
What role does having a strong signature and USP play? I think you have to be authentic and not try too hard to be different. The fashion industry is a bit like the movie industry. Sometimes labels or styles strike a chord with the consumers and fly high and nobody really understands why that is. Are retailers and consumers more aware of price? I think people are less price-sensitive than you think. If they like the brand and are quality conscious they are willing to pay a premium. However, we still try to offer our customers affordable prices even though that means that our margin is not the highest. What have you got planned for s/s 17 ? We follow a strong 1970s theme. As always, we have check and tartan statement pieces and are experimenting with new fabrics like printed lace, bamboo and Tencel.
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TERRI WRIGHT WHOLESALE MANAGER, LINDY BOP UK womenswear is constantly evolving. How does this influence your brand strategy? I think the current market is really exciting and fast paced with the emergence of some really cool and quirky brands, providing our consumer driven society with current trends at lightning speed. Customers are hungry for something new and different and brands are adapting to keep up the pace. The success and growth of our label has definitely been due to our commitment to bringing stock in quickly, refreshing our online platforms on a regular basis with new styles and keeping up with demand from customers.
recognition. It’s important to understand your industry and once you target a specific area, you should aim to do this well as opposed to spreading yourself too thinly. Identify what’s working for you and put all your efforts behind that. Are retailers and consumers more aware of price? Price is something that does set us apart from the competition because we ensure our styles are affordable whilst being careful to not lose any of the quality. In today’s market customers are very price conscious. As a company we have a successful wholesale department alongside our retail division, so this is something that we take into consideration when deciding our price points, ensuring the retailers we sell to also have a good enough mark up to make Lindy Bop profitable and successful within their business.
How important is delivering constant newness to a brand’s success? The womenswear fashion market is constantly moving and evolving and I think engaging with your customers through social platforms and keeping them interested with new drops is so vital. Stay still for a second and you drop behind. You should be ahead of your customer, ahead of current trends and certainly ahead of your customers’ requirements. What role does having a strong signature and USP play? Women’s fashion is definitely a competitive market and I think without a USP many brands can struggle to really gain
What have you got planned for s/s 17? Spring/summer 17 will see lots of lovely new prints, bold colours, Cuban influences and classic 50s silhouettes and swing shapes.
ABOUT THE BRAND: LINDY BOP IS ABOUT DELIVERING FUN AND AFFORDABLE VINTAGE INSPIRED FASHION SPECIFICALLY FROM THE 1950S ERA. WITH COMPETITIVE PRICES AND HIGH QUALITY, THE BRAND OFFERS REGULAR NEW DROPS AND HAS AN ONLINE PRESENCE AND WELL AS GROWING WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DIVISION IN THE UK AND INTERNATIONALLY.
SOPHIE BRADBURY BRAND MANAGER, FEVER LONDON UK womenswear is constantly evolving. How does this influence your brand strategy? There is no doubting it is a tough marketplace out there, with many brands competing for similar customer bases and increasing pressure to lower prices whilst maintaining the same quality and innovative design. Our brand strategy remains broadly the same – we are not trying to produce cheap clothes that follow the latest trend, but vintage inspired classic designs for the present day. How important is delivering constant newness to a brand’s success? It is an important factor and in every collection you will see many new designs and current trends influencing these designs. However we also have bestselling styles and customer favourites which always have a place within our collections, with small updates to colourways or prints for a fresh take on our core classics. We find a balance of the two works well for us.
Are retailers and consumers more aware of price? Due to our mid-range price point for our customers the clothes themselves are definitely the main selling point. Pricing is undoubtedly important to them as well, and they want to feel that they are getting good value for money. But they would rather pay a bit more to see a great design and good quality fabrics and finishes than have a reduction in price and see the design and quality of the garments suffer as a result.
What have you got planned for s/s 17? The collection will feature lots of prints and colour and has influences from the 1940s and 1950s, with our signature daywear styles sitting alongside elegant event- and occasionwear.
What role does having a strong signature and USP play? In such a flooded marketplace it is important to stand out from other brands. We are known for our vintage inspired designs and the inspiration we find on our travels. This is then translated into our collections which could be described as ‘modern-day vintage’. ABOUT THE BRAND: FEVER LONDON WAS ESTABLISHED IN 1996 AND ONE OF THE FOUNDING DIRECTORS, DAVID BRADBURY, IS STILL AT THE HELM OF THE BUSINESS. OFFERING BRITISH DESIGNED, VINTAGE INSPIRED WOMENSWEAR WITH A FOCUS ON STATEMENT PRINTS AND ELEGANT SILHOUETTES, THE DESIGNS ARE CLASSIC YET QUIRKY.
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Retailer spotlight:
MAIREAD VICKERS
HARRODS HOSTS POP-UP
LEEDS INDIE HOSTS LOCK-IN
Last month UK department store Harrods played host to a new pop-up shop in its Fashion Lab section. LA-based luxury lifestyle brand Rails took up residence within the iconic Knightsbridge store. The ready-to-wear collection, founded in 2008, is inspired by California living and includes the brand’s signature plaid shirting made with rayon fabric.
Leeds retailer Accent Clothing held an in-store event last month which invited guests to participate in an evening of indulgence. The Ladies Lock-in VIP event provided styling advice on how to dress for summer including weddings and holidays, while offering exclusive discounts of up to 50 per cent. Also on the night, guests could experience complimentary makeovers and nail art sessions as well as watch make-up tutorials.
Retail Forum The latest in-store news from the industry
HAVE YOU OPENED A NEW STORE , LAUNCHED A TRANSACTIONAL WEB SITE , ORGANISED AN EVENT OR HAVE ANY OTHER IN-STORE NEWS? THEN LET US KNOW BY GETTING IN TOUCH AT REBECCA . JACKSON@RAS-PUBLISHING.COM.
Web watch:
WWW.DIZENCLOTHING.CO.UK
Company directors Rebecca Watts and Georgia Weedon launched online store Dizen in August 2015, quickly building its reputation as a go-to fashion store for brands such as Motel, Minkpink, Noisy May and Vero Moda among others. Typically reaching a consumer demographic of female shoppers aged 1826, the store caters mainly for students and offers a 15 per cent student discount to reflect this. Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, Tumblr and Pinterest accounts connected to the retailer’s website promote different brands stocked onsite, highlight new blog posts and present arty or fun images on a daily basis. Dizen also works closely with bloggers through guest blog articles, regular competitions and outfit posts. At just 21 years old, Watts and Weedon have aspirations to build on the success of the site and to eventually produce Dizen’s own brand of clothing.
Owner, buyer & stylist Smock Boutique, Co. Wicklow, Ireland What is your current bestseller in-store? Stripes, stripes and more stripes! Although traditionally associated with the spring season, we are still seeing a demand for the trend as we approach high summer. The classic Breton style top remains a great seller for us, but now we also have the likes of summer shirt dresses, jackets, and even wide-leg palazzo pants in contemporary colours. How have you found trading over the last month? May really kicked off with a bang. Smock is located in a small but busy village and we have had fantastic weather lately (for Ireland!). This combined with a busy summer social calendar means our customers have been out and about more, requesting specific styles and looking at whole outfits rather than just individual garments. What have you been doing to drive traffic in-store? Once a month we do some kind of promotional event; whether it be a fashion show, a ladies’ shopping lunch or an in-store event. We are active on all of the usual social media outlets, most recently joining independent fashion boutique database Frockadvisor. What’s on your agenda for the coming month? Coming towards the end of the month, we have a fashion show in aid of the local primary school. We will also be introducing another new brand to Smock: a Greek occasionwear label called Frock Art.
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Retail therapy: Share your retailing bugbears ‘From l-r: Christine Xu, Michael Van Der Ham and Jasmine Broughton’
AWARDS SHOWCASES DESIGN TALENT
LAST MONTH SAW THE WINCHESTER SCHOOL OF ART ’S FUTURE FEAST 2016 RECOGNISE TOP TALENT AT AN EVENT BASED AT THE VINYL FACTORY IN SOHO, LONDON. THE INDUSTRY-FOCUSED AWARDS AND FASHION SHOW INVITED GUESTS FROM RETAILERS INCLUDING GAP, M&S, NIKE , HARRODS AND HARVEY NICHOLS TO ENJOY AN EDIBLE ART DISPLAY WHILE BROWSING STUDENT PORTFOLIOS. THIS WAS THEN FOLLOWED BY A FASHION SHOWCASE AND AN AWARDS CEREMONY HOSTED BY WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER MICHAEL VAN DER HAM.
KARI C.
Fashion designer and founder of The Collective By Kari C. “Today’s consumers have unprecedented access to information and endless e-commerce options. Even the most affluent consumers are often hesitant to pay full price, so encouraging purchases without discounting is nearly impossible. We have an ongoing sale sign on the shop window to drive traffic in-store. The focus is to engage our clients through social media channels and optimising the use of our database. We gain new clients through collaborations with fashion influencers, other brands and media to provide unique and personalised services. Building long-term relationships has been key to customer retention and driving footfall. Our holistic shopping experience also ensures that we can respond quickly to buying patterns and fulfil demand.”
BOUTIQUE INTRODUCES AMERICAN-STYLE PAYMENT PLAN Nottingham-based store Boutique 11 recently introduced a layaway payment option for its customers. The store, located in the Mapperley area of the city, adopted the scheme which is popular in America and Australia. customers can secure purchases by putting a 20 per cent deposit down, paying the remaining balance within 14 days. Penny Britton, Founder of Boutique 11, says, “Layaway makes the whole process easy as we only stock a couple of items in each style to ensure our stock is always fresh for our customers.”
Q&A:
Who would be your dream celebrity customer?
TEO LLOYD
CARLA MORRIS
EMMA HAYES
ROSE HORSFIELD
Owner of Dolly Lloyd, Chelsea, London
Owner and Stylist, Olwen Store, South Wales & online
Owner of Emma Plus, Brighton
Owner, Pookie Boutique, Silkstone, Barnsley and Harrogate, North Yorkshire
“Blake Lively would be our ideal customer. She has a classic style with a modern twist. I would even compare her to the icon Audrey Hepburn. Dolly Lloyd’s ideal customer is a modern 21st-century classic woman.”
“Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen always look great in such an effortless way. They know the perfect pieces to put together and have the ultimate ‘capsule’ wardrobe. We would love to see our labels worn by either of these amazing style inspirations.”
“Dawn French is a trail blazer who is always in a league of her own. A larger woman who is beautiful, a style icon, a hilarious comedienne, amazing actress and writer. I love Dawn’s style: colourful, arty, effortless and attractive.”
“It would have to be Holly Willoughby. She appeals to real women because she is a working mum who always looks good and is not into high-end, designer labels. I also know she would love some of our stock.”
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Social shopping WWB catches up with Ingo Heinrich, co-founder and CEO of shopping app Stylefruits, which continues to expand its reach in the UK and has its eyes set on further growth.
What is Stylefruits in a nutshell? And what is your USP? Stylefruits is your digital fashion companion. Shopping with Stylefruits is shopping with friends, but online: users benefit from the convenience of stress-free online shopping at home or on the go while also having the opportunity to exchange ideas about the latest trends, find inspiration and get advice. How does it work? Central to the platform is genuine style advice shared between fashion-conscious peers. Thanks to an intuitive design tool, users can compile their own trendy outfits from thousands of items in our database in just a few clicks. These styles can easily be shared via Facebook and other social media platforms, and users can discuss and evaluate their outfits or items before purchase. In just a few clicks, users are directed from their outfits to the partner shops where they can easily make their purchases. When did you launch in the UK, and who are your main customers? We launched Stylefruits in the UK in August 2012. We are working together with a lot of different partner shops. Missguided, Boohoo and New Look are some of our most important partners here. What are the benefits for brands and retailers who sign up to Stylefruits? On Stylefruits, millions of fashion enthusiasts discover handselected products from over 100 partner shops and over 1,000 different brands. With more than 10 million visits per month, over three million app downloads and around eight million Facebook fans, Stylefruits offers its partner shops a high level of visibility among shopping- and lifestyle-oriented female target groups. All users who are directed to the site of a partner shop have already demonstrated an intent to purchase, meaning that partner shops
benefit from an increase in targeted traffic with high conversion rates. Is Stylefruits also suited to independent boutiques? What are the main criteria? Anyone running an online shop carrying a wide range of women’s fashion, accessories and beauty products within the middle price range can become a partner of Stylefruits. If you are trying to reach out to a young, fashion and lifestyle oriented audience, Stylefruits is the right partner. How important is the UK market for Stylefruits? The UK market is a very important market for us. Our data shows that UK customers are more likely to shop via apps than others. Recently, we teamed up with Innofact AG to conduct a representative survey aimed at internet users in the UK about their use of mobile apps. The key findings show that already 65 per cent of people in the UK shop via apps. Clothing, shoes and accessories came out on top as the most popular category for shopping via apps and 31 per cent of people shop using fashion apps more than once a month. That is why the UK market will definitely stay in our focus in the future. Tell us about the latest developments at Stylefruits and your further plans. Recently, we launched a new special feature in our app: the Stylecheck. It allows users to post, discuss, rate and get feedback for outfits in real time. Since the launch of the Stylecheck feature, user engagement and retention have increased significantly. Users open the app twice as often as before, and use it twice as long. The community is extremely active: there have already been over 80 million votes on the photos uploaded so far. At the moment, we are still focusing on our app. In addition, we would like to continue to grow. New markets such as Belgium, Italy or Spain and new segments including kids’ fashion and plus size are very interesting for us.
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Names and Numbers Alice’s Pig www.alicespig.com Charmline 0049 7763 9201 www.charmline.de Clover Lewis Swimwear 020 7993 8594 www.cloverlewis.com Elizabeth Hurley Beach www.elizabethhurley.com Fantasie Swim 01536 766707 www.wacoal-europe.com Fever London 020 3735 8923 www.feverdesigns.co.uk Freya Swim 01536 766707 www.wacoal-europe.com Jessica Wright Footwear 020 7739 0398 www.jessicawrightfootwear.co.uk JuJu 01604 718604 www.jujufootwear.com Kat Maconie 020 7403 0002 www.katmaconie.com Lindy Bop 0161 694 3899 www.lindybop.co.uk Lost Ink 020 3728 7766 www.lost-ink.co.uk Lulu Hun 020 7511 6224 www.collectif.co.uk Maryan Mehlhorn 0049 7763 9201 www.maryanmehlhorn.com Miraclesuit 01423 885374 www.patricia-eve.co.uk Pedro Miralles 0034 9666 30911 www.pedromiralles.com Peter Kaiser 0049 6331 716130 www.peterkaiser.co.uk Renata 01282 425033 www.renatashoes.com Rosa Faia 0049 8034 301249 www.anita.com Ruby Shoo 01992 769612 www.katmaconie.com Sabatine 01282 773891 www.glitzshoes.com Seaspray 01274 360480 www.seasprayswimwear.com Sebago 01489 893777 www.sebago.com Senso 0061 2935 63339 www.senso.com.au Shellys London 020 3728 9988 www.shellyslondon.co.uk Sunseeker 0061 9502 6365 www.sunseekerswimwear.com Tamaris 0049 5231 60500 www.tamaris.com
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Next issue THE SEASON STARTS HERE WWB kicks off s/s 17 with the brands, the trends and the ones to watch. YOUNG ONES The key young fashion brands photographed in our seasonal shoot. FASHION SCOOP The full lowdown on this season’s special edition of Scoop and the City at Old Billingsgate.
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The Last Word with... Esin Akan Designer, Esin Akan
Esin Akan Owner and designer, Esin Akan From: Mersin, Turkey Lives: London What’s your happiest childhood memory? I grew up in a Mediterranean town in the south of Turkey and I loved waking up in the morning with the noise of the boats leaving the coast... sitting on our balcony watching the sea. Which song sums you up? Life For Rent by Dido. Before settling down in London I used to live with a suitcase in many different countries. The idea of being able to live without material attachments gives me the feeling of freedom. What’s the naughtiest thing you’ve ever done? Stealing peaches from my uncle’s garden with my cousins when I was 10. We used to have a summer house complex where all my family had houses with a small garden in each. The peach tree behind my uncle’s had a huge reputation for giving the sweetest peaches on earth. However, we were not allowed to pick them until they were mature. Having been impatient all my life, I could not wait and neither could my cousins. What are the top three things on your bucket list? 1. To have the Duchess of Cambridge wear one of my handbags. 2. Visiting Cuba. 3. Going to New Orleans Jazz festival.
Would you rather rewind life or pause it? Pause and think. Sometimes I feel like I have very little time to think. It happens as I need to make many decisions a day to keep things moving, especially in fashion as everything moves so fast. Rewinding is more about regrets and I do not think that I have many regrets in my life. Things happen for a reason and I always try to look at the positive side of all the things that happen in my life. What makes you laugh? My 10-month-old son, when he tries to grab the handbags of women on the train. Doing quality control in his own way! What’s your guilty pleasure? Strawberries and vanilla ice cream. What’s your secret talent? Choosing the best food from the menu in any restaurant when we go out for dinner with friends and family. I guess I have an intuition for knowing what ingredient goes well with the other. My friends sometimes leave the decision of choosing food to me and most times they are not disappointed.
What’s your favourite tipple? The passion fruit cocktail at Pachamama, a Peruvian restaurant in Marylebone.
What achievement are you most proud of? Winning the Top Business Opportunity award at London business school at the end of Entrepreneurship Summer School in 2013.
What could you cope better with, no internet or no mobile for the day? No internet probably: I do that in Montana when I visit my family there. It feels good to live in the moment.
If you didn’t design handbags, what would you be doing? I would be a sailor travelling the world. I love travelling, seeing new things and experiencing new cultures. That’s why I use my travels as inspiration for my collections.
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