MWB MAGAZINE JUNE 2017 ISSUE 240

ISSUE 240 | JUNE 2017 | £6.95 MWB-ONLINE.CO

KESTIN HARE ON THE GROWTH OF HIS EPONYMOUS LABEL OUR PICK OF THE BEST SWIM SHORTS TO GET IN STORE NOW ESSENTIAL DATES FOR THE S/S 18 BUYING CALENDAR

Sponsored by:

WeWe look look forward forward to seeing to seeing youyou at Moda at Moda Gent Gent 6th6th – 8th – 8th August August Stand Stand N30N30

SKOPES, SKOPES, NEW SKOPES NEW SKOPES HOUSE,HOUSE, 2 CROSS 2 CROSS GREEN GREEN GARTH,GARTH, CROSSCROSS GREEN GREEN INDUSTRIAL INDUSTRIAL ESTATE,ESTATE, LEEDS, LEEDS, LS9 0SFLS9 0SF

WWW.SKOPES.COM WWW.SKOPES.COM

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | CONTENTS | 05

F E A T U R E S 10

Online Insider

Advice, news and issues online

12

Retail Insider

The latest in-store news

17

Product News

Rounding up the key stories this month

20

In-season stock

Poolside perfection

22

The edit

Accessories and add-ons to consider in-store

24

Eyes on Berlin

The brands to catch at Premium, Seek and Bright

26

Panorama

What to expect from the mainstream fashion trade show

28

Paris confidential

The highlights of the forthcoming s/s 18 French trade shows

31

Project New York

MWB speaks to the president of menswear at Project New York, Erik Ulin

32

Jacket Required and the buyer’s eye

Discovering what the key retailers are searching for this season

34

Moda UK

The latest signings across apparel and footwear

36

Exhibition Calendar

The essential dates and locations for the s/s 18 buying season

38

Dressing responsibly

Putting the focus on eco-friendly labels

R E G U L A R S 7 8 14

Comment News Interview

Kestine Hare

40 43 46

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With‌

Warren Anderson

Front cover:

Blend He 020 3432 6387 sales@doublehagency.com www.doublehagency.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | COMMENT | 07

COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — W R I T E R Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@ite-exhibitions.co.uk —

MWB is published 9 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2017 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.

Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —

Following a report that dropped into my inbox earlier this month, it was a refreshing change to hear that despite the rise in online sales – which often dominates the news pages – bricks and mortar stores still remain an essential touchpoint in a customer’s buying journey.

— Research by ShopperTrak, a global provider of consumer behaviour insights and location-based analytics, reveals that while connected consumers have become increasingly used to moving fluidly between both online and offline channels when making a purchase, over a third of UK consumers still shop in-store just as often as they did a year ago.

As you and I already know, shoppers are increasingly researching an item online before heading into a physical store, meaning they now arrive in-store more highly informed than ever before and ready to buy.

Accustomed to receiving high levels of personalisation through e-commerce channels, omnichannel shoppers increasingly expect retail staff to deliver this same level of personal service in store, with a fifth of shoppers saying having more staff on hand to provide one-on-one assistance would enhance bricks and mortar experiences.

This highlights the need for retailers to not only deliver tailored one-on-one encounters, but also the increasing need to understand peaks and troughs in shopper traffic to closely map and optimise the staff to customer ratio.

And while a quarter of those surveyed for the report felt that better staff knowledge would improve the store experience, this is one of many things independent retailers excel at. The beauty of going into an indie is that strong product and brand knowledge is going to be at the forefront of the store’s customer service strategy.

Before I finish and introduce our June issue, which is your first look at the s/s 18 season, it gives me great pleasure to announce the launch of the brand new MWB website, mwb-online.co. With easier navigation, a mobile-responsive design and daily updates from across the menswear industry from news to trade show previews to must-read interviews, it really is something the team and I are incredibly proud of. I’d love for you to take a look and as always, tweet @mwbmagazine or drop me an email with any feedback. Have a great month ahead.

Victoria Jackson Editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | NEWS | 08

N E W S

JACKET REQUIRED LAUNCHES WOMENSWEAR EDIT

8 OUT OF 10 UK SHOPPERS PREFER INDIES A recent survey by Liberis, a UK alternative finance provider, reveals that 8 out of 10 consumers plan to use independent businesses in preference to larger businesses this year.

The survey examines current consumer attitudes towards small businesses, with the data revealing that 65 per cent of respondents were aware that using a smaller provider can be more expensive, but that the benefits of doing so outweighed the increased costs, as 48 per cent still wanted to boost the local economy and support their community.

According to the findings, convenience and leisure are the main reasons why consumers choose a small business over a larger retailer. Fifty-eight per cent of respondents said they use a grocery and convenience store the most, with 55–64 year olds selecting this as their most used type of independent store. Clothing, jewellery, books, music and gift retailers were the second most utilised businesses at 45 per cent.

Almost 50 per cent of those polled said that they shop small to support independent establishments, indicating that this plays an important role in purchasing decisions. Furthermore, 51 per cent of those polled said there is a noticeable difference between the quality of customer service offered in small businesses compared to larger stores.

However, 50 per cent of consumers said that a ’limited product range’ selection is the number one drawback to using a small business. Almost half (48 per cent) said that smaller stores tend to be more expensive.

Very few people, meanwhile, stated brand penetration (e.g. online offering, household name and peer recommendations) as an influential factor in their decision to support a small business, where historically, being a household name has gone in a larger brand’s favour. However, when asked why consumers shop at larger stores, price was the number reason at 47 per cent, with the 65+ age bracket noting price as their main reason to shop at bigger businesses, indicating that this age group keep tighter control over their finances than other age groups.

—

London trade show Jacket Required will showcase a carefully curated edit of womenswear within its next edition.

“Bringing a selection of womenswear to Jacket Required has been something under discussion with brands and buyers for a number of seasons, and it now feels like the time is right,” says Alice Elliott, event director. “We have a number of labels which are extremely relevant to the women’s market as they stand. The upcoming edition will allow our brands to present a strong womenswear edit of its spring/summer 2018 collection to targeted retailers,” she adds.

Now in its 13th season, the show will take place at The Old Truman Brewery between 26-27 July and will showcase s/s 18 collections from established brands such as Clarks Originals, Birkenstock, Deadwood, Girls of Dust, Wrangler and many more.

—

CONTINUED SUCCESS FOR JUST CONSULTANCIES Contemporary fashion agency Just Consultancies, founded by Juls and Steph Dawson, has relocated its Manchester showroom to Tanzaro House, within the city centre. With new signings from Religion Men and Nicce accessories and footwear, as well as the success of its in-house label Slydes (pictured), the company has also undergone a management restructure with the appointment of Jan Vincent Goddard to northern sales manager at the Manchester showroom.

“Tanzaro House is long synonymous with fashion and is rapidly becoming the new fashion hub for Manchester, with more than 15 different brands, agencies and distributors now based there,” says Dawson. “We’ve moved there as the location is now on every northern buyer's agenda, plus the apparent comradery between the different business is exciting for the team at Just to become a part of.”

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | NEWS | 09

NEWS IN BRIEF

GROWING GLOBAL INTEREST AT MEET THE MANUFACTURER

UK CONSUMERS PREPARE FOR PRICE HIKES

This year’s Meet the Manufacturer event, organised

by Make it British, attracted more global interest, with international visitors doubling year-on-year, to account for 8 per cent of total visitor figures.

“When we launched in 2014 we could never have guessed that thousands of people from all over the country, as well as visitors from as far away as America and Japan, would come to a small venue in East London,” says Kate Hills, founder and CEO of Make it British. “Meet the Manufacturer is now attracting companies from all over the world and this makes me more enthusiastic than ever about manufacturing in the UK,” she adds.

A highlight of the event was British fashion designer Patrick Grant, director of E-Tautz and Norton & Sons of Savile Row, talking about his new Community Clothing project that uses a network of factories in the north of England and Scotland.

—

Latest research by market analyst Mintel reports that UK consumers are anticipating an expensive future ahead. Over four in five (83 per cent) Brits are currently concerned about seeing price rises on goods and services, with 59 per cent worried about the mounting cost of groceries, 35 per cent worried about the climbing cost of holidays and 26 per cent fearing that clothes prices will soar. According to the findings, Brits are also worried about ‘bigger picture’ issues. As many as 81 per cent of UK consumers are concerned about the future health of the NHS, while 68 per cent are worried about the UK economy and 67 per cent are nervous about the environment.

People appear less concerned by issues relating to their personal situation, with half (48 per cent) of all adults concerned about their ability to pay the bills and fewer than two in five (37 per cent) worried about their level of debt.

—

FASHION SVP REVEALS NEW FOCUS ON ATHLEISURE

EDEN PARK DRIVES FORWARD WITH GLOBAL GROWTH PLANS

The significant growth of the athleisure wear sector has prompted sourcing exhibition Fashion SVP to launch a dedicated feature for high performance fabrics at its next edition. Athleisure Pace will have a garment display featuring leading apparel producers of athleisure wear, as well as an interactive feature on performance and technical fabric, curated in cooperation with CITEVE, Portugal’s key technological institute in the textile and clothing field.

“Athleisure is growing at an exciting rate and consumers are demanding innovative ideas and designs from the brands,” says Buzz Carter, director, Fashion SVP. “We’re delighted to respond to this fast-moving trend by providing show visitors with up to the minute information and advice.”

The next edition of Fashion SVP takes place at London’s Olympia on 27-28 June 2017. For further information visit www.fashionsvp.com.

—

In line with its 30th anniversary celebrations, French lifestyle label Eden Park is accelerating its global growth plans with a presence at Pitti Uomo in Florence this month, as well as Premium in Berlin, CIFF in Copenhagen and the Magic tradeshow in Las Vegas.

Stocked in 34 countries already, the brand is looking to increase its current retailer base of 536 stockists, with a focus on expanding on an international level.

The s/s 18 season, meanwhile, puts the spotlight on innovation for Eden Park, with the launch of new fabrications for outerwear including linen, nylon and cotton mixes. There will also be a vintage-inspired line of polo shirts, jerseys and multi-coloured sweats and T-shirts in a vibrant colour palette and featuring a specially designed brand crest.

—

OBITUARY: TOM GILBEY The influential menswear designer Tom Gilbey died of cancer on 24 May, five days after his 79th birthday. Many of the themes he introduced in the mid-60s, such as the influence of active sportswear on everyday menswear and the use of technical fabrics, did not gain wide acceptance until much later.

British menswear designer David Edgell, who worked at Gilbey’s studio from the late 70s until the mid-80s, recalls: “Our acceptance of what constitutes as men’s fashion today has a number of roots in the radical vision of Tom Gilbey.

Sportswear, casualwear, leisurewear, formalwear and occasionwear were all been influenced to a large degree by Tom during his long career.

“It is ironic that Tom, having created the safari suit, slipped away on 24 May, the same day as the outfit’s greatest advocate, Roger Moore, also left us. Such symmetry,” he adds.

Gilbey is survived by his second wife, Sally Riley.

— DEADLINE LOOMS FOR PRS FOR MUSIC COMPETITION The deadline for entries for the PRS for Music competition is Friday 16 June at 5pm. Following last year’s successful launch, the company is once again offering fashion independents the chance to win a ‘Music Makeover’. Last year attracted more than 130 entries, with Accent Clothing in Leeds winning the coveted prize.

For 2017, PRS for Music is once again offering the £5,000 makeover alongside runners-up prizes of £2,500. To enter, retailers need to have a valid PRS for Music licence and complete the quick entry form at www.prsformusic.com/musicmakeover.

— OBITUARY: ELLIOTT BROWN Elliot Brown, managing director EMEA at Perry Ellis International, has died at the age of 47. Brown’s career in the fashion industry spanned over 25 years; having started at Harvey Nichols he progressed to a senior role at Marc O’Polo, subsequently holding positions at Wolverine World Wide, Converse, Levi Strauss and Barbour.

Outside of work, Brown developed a passion for participating in triathlons, always performing at his best and facing challenges in a wholehearted manner. He is survived by his wife Zillah and daughter Zara.

— PREMIUM BRANDS COMMIT TO MEADOWHALL Sheffield shopping venue Meadowhall has announced five new lettings to Flannels, Neal’s Yard, Godiva, Tag Heuer and Nespresso, plus four store redesigns by House of Fraser, All Saints, Hollister and Hugo Boss.

These lettings and redesigns complement the centre’s £60m refurbishment which is currently underway, as well as the £16m retailer investment made by 42 brands that have redesigned stores since the start of the refurbishment last year.

A further 31-store reformat project is currently taking place, due to complete in line with the refurbishment programme towards the end of this year.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | ADVICE | 10

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: WHY IN-STORE MOBILE MISTRUST CAN AFFECT ONLINE SALES

GARY TOPIOL IS THE MANAGING DIRECTOR EMEA OF NUDGE REWARDS AND CAN BE CONTACTED VIA WWW.NUDGEREWARDS. COM.

Just as today’s shoppers no longer differentiate between channels, nor should retailers. This includes in-store staff, who should look to utilise all available platforms to deliver great customer experiences.

Nearly a third (32 per cent) of all customer facing workers claim they use their connected devices to answer customers’ questions, yet despite this increasing use of mobile devices, our recent research found that 40 per cent of retail staff think that trust around mobile device use at work is an issue. If this distrust continues, retailers run the risk of making channels run in silos, creating a disconnect for shoppers and making sales staff jobs harder.

As omnichannel retailing comes to the fore, businesses need to optimise all channels and embrace shoppers’ non-linear paths to purchase.

For example, online shoppers will often visit the physical store to ‘showroom’ – trying on products or simply seeing them in reality – before looking to continue their journey online.

As a result, businesses need to be at hand to assist in consumers’ complex shopping journeys. This means that retailers need to, where possible, bridge the gap between online and offline experiences, providing customers with a seamless view of the brand across all platforms. In-store shoppers often expect the endless aisle capabilities of online when in-store and may want to order items available online to be delivered to a location of their choice.

This kind of activity shows that store staff, now more than ever before, need to be equipped with technology that can help answer customer queries and, as a direct result, drive online conversions.

By placing trust in store staff to professionally utilise mobile devices in-store, to help customers along their shopping journey, retailers will reap the rewards online as shoppers move down the sales funnel and make purchases following positive in-store experiences.

—

WEB WATCH

WWW.NO50.CO.UK Birmingham based independent retailer No.50 has relaunched its online retail arm with a new design, easier navigation and a direct focus on its contemporary product offering. Spanning menswear, womenswear, childrenswear and lifestyle brands, No.50 online also features video lookbook content designed to showcase the store’s latest collections, including labels such as Calvin Klein, Dickies, Farah, Kappa, Stone Island, Timberland and many more.

—

NEWS

REPORT REVEALS CONSUMER DISSATISFACTION WITH ONLINE Nearly 80 per cent of UK shoppers say they would find an alternative retailer if faced with a negative online experience, a report by carried out by YouGov reveals.

The third annual JDA/Centiro Customer Pulse 2017 report surveyed more than 2,000 UK consumers and found that over half (56 per cent) had encountered issues with an online order over the last 12 months, which is an increase from the 53 per cent in 2016.

A growing number of respondents also claimed to have experienced problems with Click & Collect services, including staff being unable to find the delivery instore, and long waiting times.

“As the data shows, UK retailers face a challenge on several fronts when it comes to online shopping,” says Jason Shorrock, vice president, retail strategy EMEA at JDA. “Fulfilment and ‘last-mile’ issues continue to hinder retailers’ efforts at a time when consumers are becoming increasingly intolerant of poor service.

“However, it does appear retailers’ continuing investments in Click & Collect are starting to pay off. Almost a third of UK adults made an additional purchase when visiting a store for a Click & Collect item. In the online age, some might argue that footfall has lost some of the importance it once held, but these figures could signal the start of an about-face,” he adds.

— BARCLAYCARD UNVEILS PLANS FOR ‘QUEUE-LESS CHECKOUT’ PAYMENT Barclaycard is trialling a new payment concept that allows shoppers to buy goods simply by scanning and paying using their smartphones, without the need to visit a physical checkout. The technology used transforms a smartphone into a ‘pocket checkout’, enabling consumers to scan low-value items they want to buy with the phone’s camera and complete their purchase by clicking and walking out of the store.

“One of the key customer frustrations with shopping is the time spent queuing to pay for items they want to buy - especially when they are in a hurry,” says Usman Sheikh, director of design and experimentation at Barclaycard. “Using the latest technology, we’ve developed Grab+Go to streamline the shopping experience by removing the need to physically check out every time you want to buy something.”

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 12

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

—

ADVICE HOW TO VALUE DATA AND CONTINUALLY REACT TO IT KAREN SHAW is a business development manager at Fashione and former retail business owner.

GEOX UNVEILS INNOVATIVE RETAIL CONCEPT Italian brand Geox has unveiled its ‘X-Store’ design concept, with plans to implement the layout in key stores worldwide. Initially previewed in the brand’s Covent Garden store in London and the Via del Corso store in Rome at the end of 2016, the concept has just launched in Toronto and Kuala Lumpur.

With a focus around breathability and wellbeing, the label aims to provide a multi-sensory experience through technology in-store. Visitors can view integrated digital screens and interactive displays, allowing them to customise their experience, find out more about an item, learn about Geox products and benefit from style recommendations.

The new design preserves and enhances any existing architectural features such as glass windows, columns, ceilings and exposed brickwork, working them in with the new technological features. WiFi, free charging stations and fitting rooms where the entire Geox catalogue is available.

As well as continuing to host Geox’s men’s, women’s and children’s ranges, which includes clothing, footwear and outerwear, the store will carry key styles such as the Nebula trainer, which incorporates a 3D-breathability system, and the Amphibiox style, a product line that ensures watertightness.

— NEWS IN BRIEF G-SHOCK RETURNS TO CARNABY STREET After a seven-year hiatus, watch brand G-Shock will reopen a flagship store on Carnaby Street, London, this month. The original store opening in 1998 was the first of more than 600 G-Factory outlets opening around the world. The brand’s homecoming pays homage to a longstanding relationship with its London customer. The new store will provide a service unique to the London flagship whilst also stocking Casio’s other brands, including Baby-G, Edifice, ProTrek and Oceanus.

—

PEPE JEANS ANNOUNCES REGENT STREET OPENING Pepe Jeans has announced the launch of its new flagship store at 59-61 Regents Street, W1, inaugurating a new store concept for the brand designed by the renowned Martin Brudnizki Design Studio. The space will hold womenswear, menswear, denim collections, accessories and footwear across one floor.

Inspired by the ethos of creating a brand which is accessible to all ages, the new design concept combines an eclectic mix of contrasting materials with an emphasis on craftsmanship, providing a retail space which inspires all generations.

—

Invest in analytics and IT for strategic buying Review all of your operating metrics regularly to foresee what changes might need to be implemented. By applying a good retail management system, you can take action before a small spark becomes a wildfire. With daily, weekly and monthly reports on the metrics affecting your business, ensure you are armed with the best knowledge when buying. You can analyse stock lines that are performing well and those which are not, adjusting your buying strategy accordingly.

Get to know your customers better Getting to know your clients is one of the best way to improve your product or service.

Personal touches, like remembering an individual’s preferences, can be an effective way to set yourself apart. With the Fashione EPOS, you can view your customers’ spending history at the touch of a button, making in-store sales easier.

Be proactive with promotions and events Careful planning to promote your collections regularly is important. Social media has become such an incredible tool for businesses; Instagram is particularly good, allowing you to be creative with photography of your collections and store. In-store events are also a must and don’t have to cost a fortune. There is no better way to draw in customers than with a VIP event.

Reward customers and make shopping easy With increased competition from the high street and online, it’s important to offer more than great products to make sales. Introducing a loyalty scheme encourages repeat spending and customer retention. The Fashione EPOS system allows you to run a loyalty scheme with credit card style loyalty cards that can be designed to suit your store image and branding. www.fashione.co.uk

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 13

SHOPPED: RUSSELL CAMERON How’s business been so far this year?

It’s not been easy. We import a lot from Japan and the States, and there’s been a bit of a Brexit hangover with the increase in prices due to the weak pound. The spring/summer season is hard enough, and with promotions and discounts starting from Easter it makes it a whole lot tougher. For the autumn/winter season there are at least a lot more pieces you can invest in from our point of view, and the customers’ point of view. There’s more value to be had in the winter time, and hopefully customers will be getting more accustomed to the price rises by then.

— RUSSELL CAMERON, OWNER, KAFKA So are you looking at buying brands closer to home?

MERCANTILE, There’s not that many interesting brands now within the UK, ABERDEEN and across Europe, that aren’t already being stocked by the huge investment and capital backed corporations which now operate in the retail sector. As an independent, it’s increasingly difficult to buy product that aren't stocked by those guys, so you have to travel further afield. We’ve had a fair shift in the brands we buy in; as of a/w 17 there is a statement of intent with the direction we want to take the business. It’s all on the QT, because that’s the way it’s going. You have to be more guarded these days.

— So how do you view the current market?

The big players are monopolising the market, and over the last couple of years we’ve had to drop quite a number of brands as a result. They just become overstocked and discounted and in turn devalued, so I think you’ve just got to become more specialist. That gives you a smaller customer base, but a more appreciative one.

IN FOCUS: OWL 6 MONTPELLIER GARDENS HARROGATE HG1 2TF

ESTABLISHED: SEPTEMBER 2014 BRANDS: 1ST PATRN, A.B.C.L JAPAN, ANOYMOUS ISM, CAMPLIN, CAPE HEIGHTS, FRACAP, FILSON, G.H. BASS & CO., HAWKSMILL, KESTIN HARE, LONDON UNDERCOVER, NEMEN, PENDLETON, PRIVATE WHITE V.C., PORTUGUESE FLANNEL, PRESIDENT’S, SAMSOE & SAMSOE, SCHOTT, SUNSPEL, TEN C, UNIVERSAL WORKS, WILD BUNCH

K-WAY OPENS HI-TECH COVENT GARDEN STORE K-Way has opened its first hi-tech store within the UK, which runs without a cash register.

Located at 4 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, the shop measures 140 sq m and enables customers to pay anywhere in the store via a tablet, without having to wait or queue.

Plasmas, digital factotums and iPads strategically placed around the shop allow customers and staff to locate every item, view prices, sizes, colours and materials and receive updated information on promotions, discounts and news in real time.

Every K-Way item features a unique number and QR code that may be scanned with a smartphone. The QR code links to basiclabels.net to obtain all the information on production, traceability and authenticity of K-Way products.

—

NEWS IN BRIEF After a successful career in the music industry, Steve Mulhaire saw fashion as the next step and subsequently opened the Owl store in Harrogate with the notion of creating something unique and selling great quality garments. Fast approaching three years in business, Mulhaire relocated the shop in February to 6 Montpellier Gardens, an area known locally as The Montpellier Quarter, among some of the leading independent shops in Harrogate.

Says Mulhaire: “In the short time of Owl being in Harrogate it has seen a change from what was a slightly staid middle-England feel, to something more exciting, with new independent bars, cafes, restaurants and shops ready to embrace new and different ideas.” The brands that have been most successful this season have been A.B.C.L. Japan along with Universal Works, Portuguese Flannel, Kestin Hare, Hawksmill and Wild Bunch.

Looking to a/w17, new brand additions will include Astorflex footwear, Private White V.C. and President’s. “They use Japanese fabrics and manufacture in Tuscany and it was one of the best things I saw in Paris last time.” For Mulhaire it’s all about experiencing good service – something that can’t be bought online. “Support your local independent,” he says.

UNIQLO REOPENS WIMBLEDON STORE Japanese brand Uniqlo has reopened its Wimbledon store to the public, unveiling a refurbished 600 sq m space. Adding to the brand’s 1,700 stores worldwide, the Wimbledon branch will stock the core men’s and women’s ranges as well as kidswear. After occupying the space for 16 years, the Wimbledon branch is the oldest store still open outside of Japan. To mark the reopening, Japanese taiko drummers performed throughout the day, goody bags were provided to the first 100 customers to enter the store and there was a Japanese themed tombola for shoppers, which included prizes such as an ultimate tennis themed party.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | INTERVIEW | 14

INTERVIEW

KESTIN HARE Kestin Hare cut his design teeth at Reiss and Nigel Cabourn. He sold out his share of his first design project, Common People, to launch the first collection under his own name with his Japanese distributor as a partner in January 2015. In March this year he opened a flagship store in Edinburgh, to add to the shop he already has in Shoreditch, while there are plans to grow the wholesale side in the UK and overseas, as Tom Bottomley discovers.

— Tom Bottomley: Prior to doing your own thing, how was your time at Nigel Cabourn?

Kestin Hare: It was a major learning curve. I worked my way up at Nigel Cabourn and ended up as head of design. That was through the real ascent of Cabourn, and in that period we were doing limited edition collections including the famed Everest parka and Cameraman jacket. At the time, I don’t think we really knew how good all of that was. It wasn’t until later that it was looked back on and seen to be something quite special.

It was all made in the UK, and that’s where my love of UK manufacturing came from, travelling around the country visiting factories with Nigel.

— TB: Did doing that have a big influence on you and your own design ethos?

KH: Definitely. Seeing all of that made me think that one day I really wanted to do my own thing.

And I still wanted to have the same core values, with UK production at the forefront. Wherever possible, probably around 70 per cent of it, I make in the UK for Kestin Hare to this day. I use some of the old factories we used for Cabourn over the years. We’re making seam-sealed

CO-OWNER AND DESIGNER KESTIN HARE

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | INTERVIEW | 15

technical jackets in Cumbernauld, more semitailored pieces in Tottenham, shirts in Wolverhampton, knitwear in Alloa and Leicester, and trousers in Manchester. But we also have some shirt production in Portugal and Jersey.

— TB: How hard is it to make in the UK these days?

KH: For things like jersey it’s very difficult. The problem is, we haven’t got the raw materials here.

We’re sorted for things like Harris Tweed and leather, but a lot of it we have to bring in to make in the UK, so we’re not buying fully factored garments. We’ve got to bring in buttons, zips, labels and so on. But the benefits are the production quality is fantastic, and you can do low runs and have more control, as well as being able to carry the ‘Made in UK’ badge, which our Japanese partners really like. We’ve now got 40 accounts we export to in Japan.

— TB: Who is your Japanese partner in the Kestin Hare brand?

KH: His name is Masataka Fujino, and he started by distributing my former brand, Common People, in Japan. We teamed up in December 2014 to launch under my own name. It’s a 50/50 partnership.

— TB: When did you open your first Kestin Hare store?

KH: Well I already had the old small Common People store in Edinburgh, so that was converted to a Kestin Hare store pretty much straight away.

Then we launched the Shoreditch shop in July 2015, at 42-44 Rivington Street. It was the old Start women’s store. That’s our London flagship, where we have 2,400 square feet, which we split into a Kestin Hare store, and a Japanese multibrand store on the other side. Downstairs is our showroom where we do all our wholesale, because we also distribute brands from Japan in to the UK. — TB: How does the Shoreditch store perform?

KH: During some pretty difficult retailing times, that store has really performed very well. It’s such a prominent unit, and it’s been great from the get-go. It’s somewhere where people like to go and hang out. We also have a coffee shop and a

barber in there. That’s the same kind of thing that we’ve done with the new store in Edinburgh as well. We moved out of the small store we had in Edinburgh, and into something much bigger to allow us to create something really special.

— TB: How big is the new store and whereabouts in Edinburgh is it?

KH: It’s about 3,000 square feet, and it’s a big grade A listed townhouse right on the waterfront in Leith, Edinburgh, which is the old dock area. It’s a bit like Shoreditch was about 20 years ago. It’s an area where it’s historically been quite cheap to have office or studio space and, in those kind of circumstances, it means you get designers, architects, new magazines and tech business start-ups coming in, congregating, and often collaborating with each other. That’s what Leith has now become. Tom Kitchin’s Michelin starred restaurant, The Kitchin, is also here. There’s actually two Michelin-starred restaurants within a square mile, which is quite unique, but the area did not really have any high end retail, or menswear lifestyle retail, so we’ve put ourselves out there and done something a bit different.

We’ve only been open about 10 weeks, but we’ve had a really positive reaction to the space.

— TB: What’s the new store like?

KH: It says Kestin Hare above the door, but it’s actually referred to in Edinburgh as ‘The Old Cruiser Store’, because it’s an old building that used to bring in all the cruise ships for work to be done on them. It’s got a townhouse frontage to it, and a long, thin building at the back which allowed them to bring the boat parts in to work on the ships. Because of the area, we’ve got a bit of a nautical theme to the shop, with an amazing yellow staircase, and a retro speedboat, which has been cut in half to form the downstairs changing room. We also have an established instore barber and, at the back, a coffee shop and gallery space. Upstairs on the top floor is our design studio and showroom. We have retail space on the ground floor, and first floor.

We surround ourselves with other made in the UK products, like Freddy Grubb bikes, which are made in King’s Cross. We also buy in a new label, called Crowther/Plant, which is all made

and indigo-dyed in Margate. And we’ve got a florist as you come in to the shop, selling seasonal Scottish flowers. So the shop is all-singing, all dancing.

— TB: How is the wholesale side of Kestin Hare performing?

KH: That’s our main focus at the moment. The retail stores are great showcases for the brand, but our main concentration is on growing the wholesale business. The UK is quite strong, and growing, with about 35 accounts now, including some great independents such as Oi Polloi, Number Six, Ode, Psyche, Ruskin, 18 Montrose, W2 and Stuarts London, as well as the likes of Harvey Nichols. But there is always room for further growth. Our wholesale business in France is also now really taking off, with about 25 accounts at the moment, and we will be showing again at Resident Showroom following the success of the first show. We’re also going to be showing at Capsule in New York, and Revolver in Copenhagen.

— TB: What direction are you taking the brand for s/s 18?

KH: There’s a bit of a change in direction from the previous a/w17 season, which we did have a really good response to. We’re building on that. It’s not a complete change of look, but it’s definitely different to what’s currently in store. The quality is so much better, and the price is slightly more expensive, due to price increases in euros and the cost of bringing in raw materials in order to make our products in the UK. We’ve been hit, as everyone has been, by the whole Brexit situation, and with currency being not what it was when we did our original pricing. So, there is an increase of about 10 per cent on where we were pre-Brexit.

But we’re just trying to focus and quality and craftsmanship, and some great gear at what we think is affordable prices. Our look is generally understated, quite subtle, but the customers that buy it appreciate the quality. I think customers are becoming increasingly educated and better informed, and they want to know where things have been produced and more about the fabrics.

So, we’re staying focused on those sorts of values.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | PRODUCT NEWS | 17

P R O D U C T

SAILING INTO THE NEW SEASON Scottish fashion brand Walker Slater has launched its a/w 17 menswear collection, Messrs, which is designed to increase its wholesale partnerships with high-end boutiques in the UK and overseas. The trend-led collection focuses on suiting and outerwear, including Harris Tweed suits with stretch, blazers in bright plains and oversized checks, leather jackets and rainwear with technical taped seams. The premium collection also includes a tonal range of 100 per cent cotton shirts, new-wool knitwear, ties, bow ties and shoes.

“Messrs’ inspiration comes from my love of sailing, incorporating colours of the sea and the rugged Scottish coastlines,” explains Paul Walker, founder of Walker Slater. “The tailoring has been relaxed, shoulders softened and cloths chosen for their comfort and durability.”

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | PRODUCT NEWS | 18

RADAR Spotlighting style

KEEPING IT IN THE FAMILY The Oxford Shirt Company is a family business with a 40-year history of offering men’s, women’s and children’s clothing. Running as an independent retailer in Burford, located in the Cotswolds, the store offers brands such as Barbour, Crew Clothing, Gant and Musto as well as its own in-house label, which is also available on a wholesale basis. Each of its shirts is hand cut and finished in the brand’s Oxfordshire factory using single needle stitching and real mother of pearl buttons.

—

GEOFF STOCKER ESTABLISHED: April 2014 HISTORY: Geoff Stocker established his eponymous label after parting with a previous partnership, seeking full control over the design and direction of the brand.

SIGNATURE STYLE: With a penchant for the unexpected, the brand features lots of colour throughout its collection of silk accessories, which typically take on a linear design.

Geoff Stocker established his eponymous menswear brand in 2014, breaking out of a previous partnership to gain full control over his next project. Specialising in printed silk accessories, the brand is typically aimed at city goers and ‘dapper gents’ aged between 20 and 70. Design influences range from Celtic and Mesoamerican cultures through to Cubism, Op art and Stocker’s own abstract digital painting compositions. Silk neck ties and pocket squares take on bold patterns and bright, contrasting colours – as seen in a recent design featuring Stocker’s pet Labrador, Harry. The capsule pocket square and neck tie collaboration with men’s fashion blogger, Grey Fox, is only the start of further pairings.

Stocker has just finished a bespoke pocket square design for men’s grooming brand Big Boy. In return, the grooming label will create a limited edition gift set featuring its own beard balm and a Geoff Stocker handkerchief. Currently stocked in Seagate Menswear, Hastings, East Sussex, and the Royal Academy of Arts gallery shop, London, the average wholesale price is £27.30.

—

BENNETT WINCH Established in 2014 by Robin Bennett and Robin Winch, Bennett Winch presents a range of multi-purpose bags which are inspired by the demands of modern life. Handmade in England, construction of the collection focuses heavily on craftsmanship. Typically, designs promote an understated exterior made from materials including 24oz bonded waterproof canvas and full-grain veg tanned leather. The range currently consists of four key pieces: The Tote, The Weekender, The Commuter and The Backpack. Retailers include Private White V.C. and Trunk Clothiers, London.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | PRODUCT NEWS | 19

PRODUCT NEWS

THE SIMPLE LIFE

A EUROPEAN OUTLOOK Eyewear specialist MONC was founded in London in 2016 by British designer Freddie Elborne. Each item in the collection is designed in the UK and handcrafted by a small family-run Italian manufacturer. The frames are then encased in leather holders using ethically sourced British leather, which is produced by a leatherwork studio in North London. Sturdy to wear, each MONC frame also comes with a maintenance kit to ensure prolonged use. “As designers, we’re driven by the pursuit of quality and style, believing that for each product there should be a story to be shared,” explains Elborne.

—

Beginning life as a desert boot on a comfy, casual athletic sole, footwear brand Simple quickly gained recognition in the fashion industry for its high quality designs. In the 1990s the brand introduced retro sneakers, clogs and work boots to complete its offer. For s/s 17, Simple brings a range of new silhouettes, including the O-S Sneaker (pictured) which comes in both suede and tumbled leather.

—

STYLE HIGHLIGHT

MADE IN GLOBAL SAN TELMO BACKPACK Designed in a workshop in Tuscany, Italy, accessories brand Made in Global presents five designs which reflect a high level of craft. Taking inspiration from Buenos Aires, each design is named after a neighbourhood in the Argentinian city. The unisex San Telmo (featured) is a full grain leather backpack boasting a clean silhouette and a sophisticated colour palette ranging from caramel and dove grey to black.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | PRODUCT | IN SEASON | 20

TOMMY HILFIGER £22.65 0203 144 0900

HACKETT PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7494 4917

NICCE £13.46 07577 051308

BELLFIELD £8.93 0844 477 4856

ORLEBAR BROWN £76 020 3441 6289

LE CAP €36.50 0033 6 23 08 86 38

POOLSIDE PERFECTION From bold prints to primary brights, swim shorts make a statement poolside this summer, with brands presenting both tailored and casual options for your customer.

— Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

CRAGHOPPERS £23.30 0161 749 1300

FILA £14 01923 288551

OKUN PRICE ON REQUEST 07958 306420

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | PRODUCT | 22

AESOP PRICE ON REQUEST WWW.AESOP.COM

NIXON £80 0808 234 7003

URBANEARS PRICE ON REQUEST 07500 808502

THE EDIT Accessories and lifestyle products to complement your store’s offer.

— LES BASICS £14 WWW.LESBASICS.NET

MI-PAC £14.60 020 7739 7620

FARAH £18 020 7580 5838

MARSHALL PRICE ON REQUEST 07500 808502

TRIUMPH & DISASTER PRICE ON REQUEST 07703 364936

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | PREVIEW | 24

EYES ON BERLIN On July 4-6 the fashion trade show pendulum swings to Berlin, with PREMIUM, SEEK and BRIGHT all offering up something different for buyers from around the world. Tom Bottomley previews some key brands from each show.

—

SEEK RUSSELL ATHLETIC u Formed in 1902, Russell Athletic is one of the oldest sportswear brands still going strong. For a/w17 it relaunched a more premium ‘Eagle R’ collection, utilising its rich archive, and for s/s18 its development continues apace – reinventing and reproducing definitive styles. The ‘Eagle R’ s/s18 collection is a mix of archive-inspired pieces with an injection of acidic colour nodding to 90’s sportswear, a key trend once more. It’s in keeping with the varsity sports heritage, but with modern silhouettes. Gothic lettering and university mascot graphics run alongside the bold ‘Eagle R’ logo. Colours such as golden haze and vintage lilac mix in with the traditional Russell Athletic red and blue colour palette. Fabrics remain true to the brand, incorporating its authentic 30’s American knit, along with soft handle cotton jerseys and peached brushback fleece. The s/s18 collection brings the best of the 50’s, 80’s, and 90’s together to create a fresh take on vintage inspired sportswear.

— t

KAPPA KONTROLL

It seems sports classics are becoming streetwear once again. Kappa introduced its new collection, Kappa Kontroll, for s/s17, and two seasons down the line its gaining a real momentum – with the famous logo still prevalent. The brand’s origins go back to 1916, when it was a socks and underwear manufacturer in Turin, Italy, with the brand name Aquila. Due to a faulty batch of socks, distributed by mistake in 1956, customers returned the goods to retailers, and they in turn returned them to the manufacturer. For the first time in nearly 40 years the company’s faultless reputation was at risk.

The company president subsequently had future production labelled with a ‘K’ printed on the box, with the caption ‘KONTROLL’. It was a way to guarantee the quality of its products. The market loved it. Demand for socks with the ‘K’ soared, and the brand moved in to sportswear with the brand name Kappa. Sixty years later, comes the Kappa Kontroll collection, acknowledging the past, but with a new vision. The original Kappa logo features the silhouette of a man and woman sitting back to back in the nude, and was inspired by a photograph taken during downtime of a bathing suit catalogue shoot in 1969. The lighting and silhouette created by the models sitting back to back caught the photographer’s eye, and the logo was born.

PREMIUM

MWB-ONLINE.CO JULY 2017 | PREVIEW | 25

MAKIA q

BRIGHT STAY HUNGRY p A new streetwear label from Berlin, Stay Hungry is a one to watch.

For s/s18 it will be presenting functional looking jackets and gilets, which go across the seasons. It is also launching breathable and elegant looking shirts, made out of exclusive and traditional fabric from Switzerland. The shirts can be used in the outdoors under rough conditions, but are equally suited to daily city life. There will be more variations to Stay Hungry’s five panel ‘Camp’ hat styles, exclusively made in Germany, and a new sporty looking small shoulder bag and several hip bag styles, exclusively produced by their friends at Bagjack – from the same Berlin neighbourhood.

They are the perfect size for daily commuting in the city or any kind of travel. Stay Hungry is a young brand focused on creating urban outdoor gear and classy sportswear, which is exclusively made in Europe in limited quantities. And that’s its real point of difference.

—

For s/s18, Finnish brand Makia, founded in 2001, will be introducing quite a few new jackets, including a longer hooded knee-length rain jacket called ‘Longitude’ in black or white. There’s also a new Mac. Both are clean and minimalist waterproof all-season shell jackets. There is also a continuation of the ‘Island camo’ pattern, created from Helsinki’s sea front navigational charts. It will be used on selected pieces such as the ‘Waypoint’ jacket, that’s made out of brushed cotton. The pattern is printed and then garment dyed, for a subtle tone-on-tone look. Makia is generally focusing on timeless pieces, that are easy to fit with its customer’s own wardrobes. There’s a heavy Nordic vibe to the new collection, with marine influenced colours and patterns, along with minimalistic silhouettes and quality materials, such as Merino wool. The brand is also introducing a wider selection of sneakers, walking shoes and boots. There will be textile, oiled suede and leather options. Fresh collaborations for the season include one with Tomi Freeman, owner and designer of pioneering Finnish streetwear brand, CTRL. There will be exclusive custom made prints from Freeman in Makia’s s/s18 collection.

collection centres on the effortless elegance you find in traveler staples.

There is a travel-ready aspect to everything. For men, the range explore the contrasts of ‘life on the road’ – washed meets clean, sports meet utility, brights meet sun-kissed hues, combined with modern takes on vintage styling. There’s new takes on palm prints, made moodier with a rock ‘n’ roll edge. There’s also vintage-washed denims with Japanese twists, and kimono lines transform workwear into fresh new indigo designs.

— t

t

SCOTCH & SODA

A well established brand in the UK, with a buzzing and very successful store on London’s Carnaby Street, this is actually a first time showing for Amsterdam-based Scotch & Soda at Premium. It will present both its men’s and women’s s/s18 lines at the show, in a whopping 2,370 square foot space, with an outdoor terrace at STATION-Berlin hall. Scotch & Soda’s global director of merchandising, Alex Jaspers, says: “Berlin’s naturally buzzy, creative and open spirit is a lot like Amsterdam, our home city. Premium in Berlin feels like the right event to profile Scotch & Soda at right now.” The inspiration for the s/s18 collection is the real-life story of Robyn Davidson, who back in the 1970’s, when she was just 25, trekked from the very middle of Australia all the way to the West coast of the country – alone. The

JOE’S JEANS

Brand new to the UK market for s/s18, courtesy of fashion distributors Zone Two, comes L.A. denim brand Joe’s Jeans – showing its full and impressive collection in Berlin. Perhaps better known for its high-end women’s denim offer, Joe’s Jeans is actually a much bigger collection and is 40 per cent men’s. The brand has two stores in California, one in New York, one in Florida and another in Washington DC. From a wholesale perspective, the brand works with some 3,000 stores in the US. In short, Joe means business.

Founded in 2001 by creative director Joe Dahan, Joe’s Jeans has a distinctive premium L.A denim brand look and feel to it, with a touch of rock ‘n’ roll styling, and an emphasis on offering the perfect jeans fit for everybody – utilising the finest technology available. There’s also vintage-look slub jersey T-shirts, long-sleeved jerseys with pocket detail, slim-fit button down shirts in Japanese-sourced denim and washed Oxford cotton. Jackets include leather biker styles with denim linings, a cracked lambskin café racer jacket and a raglan sleeve twill bomber with water resistant coating.

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | PREVIEW | 26

PANORAMA BERLIN Ever-evolving Berlin tradeshow Panorama returns next month with a strong exhibitor profile of over 100 new brands and further optimised areas. Now reaching its 10th edition, the exhibition doesn’t show any signs of slowing down. Rebecca Jackson takes a look at what’s in store for this season.

—

Panorama Berlin is firmly rooted in the city’s fashion landscape as one of the key shows to visit for mainstream menswear and womenswear. The show celebrates its 10th edition this season, highlighting its rapid expansion since launching four years ago.

With the first edition of Panorama Berlin in January 2013, the exhibition initially took up residency at Berlin’s new airport, BER. After relocating to the central exhibition grounds of Messe Berlin shortly afterwards, the show found its place in the heart of Berlin.

Today, the tradeshow is one of Europe’s biggest fashion trade events, exhibiting more than 800 brands in 10 halls. Occupying a total of 50,000 sq m of exhibition space, new designs are showcased in womenswear, menswear, denim and streetwear, shoes and accessories, lingerie and plus size fashion.

Marking the 10th edition this season, Panorama continues its focus on the show’s optimised zones, incorporating new centralised presentation areas, and has introduced 100 new brands to its existing portfolio. New names include the likes of Future Cut Cloths, Dansk Smykkekunst, Presly & Sun, Waldläufer, Brunello Barbieri, Neon Rose, D&X London, Aigle, Noisy May, Rockford, Jacqueline De Yong, Titan, New in Town, Aerosoles, Molly Bracken Premium, Holster Australia and We K by Kroll.

Ten halls organise a diverse mix of products, which ranges from young and trendy collections (Hall 1) to plus size fashion brands (Halls 7A & B). Visitors to the show can find specific areas dedicated to menswear, such as the show’s Ma!n area (Hall 2), which presents

contemporary labels alongside additional lifestyle products/nontextile items. Key brands in this section include Roy Robson, Nowadays, NZA, Benvenuto, Lerros, Digel, Olymp, Alberto and Milestone.

Meanwhile, womenswear is well catered for in the Contemporary area (Hall 4), which features modern womenswear collections from the likes of Marc Cain, Nile, Herrlicher, Dixie, Luisa Cerano, Oui, Raffaello Rossi, Mucho Gusto, Lieblingsstück and Noa Noa. The Shoes and Accessories section (Halls 5 & 6) presents a new structure this season, combining classic brand booths with open presentation areas. A more centralised presentation is set to maximise the impact of the halls’ 150 brands.

For the upcoming edition, the Nova Concept area will return to Hall 9, presenting future retail ideas and a portfolio of directional urbanwear collections for men and women, accessories, selected lifestyle articles and technical gadgets. Continuing on with last season’s streamlined brand profile, for s/s 18 the emphasis is on denim and its return to the forefront of fashion. Key brands in this area include the likes of Pepe Jeans London, Bench, Palladium, Jack & Jones and Colorado Denim.

— Panorama Berlin takes place from 4 to 6 July 2017 at ExpoCenter City, Jafféstraße, 14055 Berlin. For more information visit www.panorama-berlin.com.

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | PREVIEW | 28

PARIS CONFIDENTIAL The last week in June sees our attention drawn to the shows in Paris, namely MAN, Capsule and the much talked about Resident Showroom, which returns for its second edition. Tom Bottomley takes a look at some brands from each who are looking to grow their UK account base for s/s 18.

—

MAN MAISON LABICHE q Currently sold by a few UK independents, as well Fenwick and Coggles, and going in to Liberty for the first time this a/w 17, Maison Labiche bases its collections around a travel theme each season. For s/s 18, the collection is called ‘Paris to the Moon’, based around the 1960s space programme and the ‘space race’ between the USA and Russia, as well as all things sci-fi and comic-book influenced – seen across new embroidered detailing on garments. A Paddington Bear collaboration to tie in with the release of the Paddington 2 film is also planned. Maison Labiche offers full collections of men’s, women’s and childrenswear, creating functional lifestyle basics. Production of the highest quality is key to its appeal, using only natural materials with expert finishing, all developed at its Paris studio.

—

LES BASICS p It may well sound French, but Les Basics is very much from these shores, as brand owner Kieron Hurley will testify. New for s/s 18 are the two ‘big Cs’ – colour and corduroy. Colour comes in the form of a washed out sky blue and dusty pink (to add to the usual white, grey, khaki, navy and black), while corduroy adds a new texture to the offer, complementing the cotton mesh and loop back fleece carryover fabrics. It’s a very fine corduroy, almost velvet-like in appearance. New styles are a mix of updates and organic developments. Le Sports Coat morphs in to Le Raglan Blazer, available in the loop back fleece and corduroy. Le Short Pant grows up into Le Smart Short, with both doing a different job and earning a place in the line-up. Other new styles of note are Le Zip Sweat, Le Zip Gilet and Le Wind Cheater. Says Hurley: “It’s more evolution than revolution, balancing carry-overs in their original form, tweaking old faves, and creating future classics.”

—

CAPSULE GYMPHLEX u For Gymphlex, s/s 18 is all about exploring its origins. A play on classic shapes and features with flashes of colour and modern technical elements. Expect to see classic banded T-shirts with a modern take on school house colours, rugby shorts with original tape details and one of its favourites, the 1949 FA Cup final inspired Drill Tracksuit, produced in a cotton drill and featuring subtle trim details. It’s a real throwback to the brand’s English sporting past. This new collection for Gymphlex explores its identity as an authentic sports brand, upping the game with the use of specialist fabrics and finishes. Gymphlex has been moving with the times since 1906, way before the term ‘athleisure’ was coined. They also make some pretty retro sports socks.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | PREVIEW | 29

RESIDENT SHOWROOM DESCENTE ALLTERRAIN u There’s a real focus on Japanese brands who have limited distribution outside of Japan at this second edition of Resident Showroom. Descente Allterrain has more of an urban and street feel and look than the regular Descente outdoor collections.

This s/s 18 collection is the sixth since Allterrain’s inception. It has remained steadfastly true to its original ‘form follows function’ concept, but year by year has built on it and refined the design process, to express the true essence of minimalism. Unnecessary and wasteful design elements have been abandoned, with a simplified garment construction system termed ‘Minimal Pattern SIO’. The new collection takes another big step forward, including the use of ‘Schematech’ technology, which alternates weaving techniques and yarns to create different structures, textures and functions within just one layer of fabric. This brings about another reduction in the number of seams, in the pursuit of perfect wearability. There is also a new bag collaboration with fellow Japanese brand Porter.

—

FDMTL q FDMTL produces mainly denim garments which are made in Japan, the worldwide manufacturing capital for denim. Its uncompromising products are carefully made by skilled workmen with such incredible detail, that they would be extremely difficult to mass produce, meaning distribution is kept nice and tight, but quality is of the highest standard. Important processes, such as distressing, breathe new life into the products. But everything is well thought out and trial and error ensures the vintage-look jeans look real, and not unnaturally produced. Styles are designed with the occupation of a person who would have worn the denim from raw in mind, so the look is spot-on.

—

MASTER-PIECE MSPC p Osaka-based bag and accessory line Master-Piece Co. was founded in 1994 with the idea of combining high-level design and everyday functionality. All products are manufactured in Japan out of top quality heritage and technical materials. Each design is thoughtfully detailed and built to last. Function, quality and style are the hallmarks of Master-Piece’s backpacks and totes, each of which is expertly crafted by the company’s skilled artisans in its Osaka factory. Founded by Taichi Fujimatsu, its pieces have gone on to become world-renowned.

—

MWB PROMOTION | 30

PRS FOR MUSIC LAUNCHES MUSIC MAKEOVER 2017 COMPETITION FOR FASHION RETAILERS Following on from its successful launch last year, PRS for Music is proud to relaunch its Music Makeover competition for fashion retailers with the winning prize of a £5,000 makeover.

PRS for Music devised the Music Makeover campaign to showcase and raise awareness of how good music can impact businesses. The quality of the sound system itself, the acoustics, music choice and volume all impact your customer and staff experience.

Celebrating the value of music in fashion stores, PRS for Music is also offering a bespoke music consultation from a leading music and technology expert advising them on the best use of music in their store and a launch event to celebrate and promote their win, featuring live music from PRS for Music members alongside the £5,000 prize.

Last year attracted more than 130 entries, with Accent Clothing in Leeds being crowned the winners. The store, which was also voted Best Fashion Retailer in Leeds in 2016, received a bespoke music consultancy from leading record producer Steve Levine, who helped them to revamp the store for live performances as it continues to support the local scene. The £5,000 prize also allowed them to upgrade their in-store sound system across both floors to improve the shopping experience.

Accent feels music plays a vital role in their business; it’s about how customers interact when they come into store and creating an environment that they feel welcome in and can relate to on a personal level.

As part of the celebrations, PRS for Music hosted a launch party, where rising Leeds act Bianca Gerald, who was dressed by Accent Clothing for last year’s MOBO Awards, and PRS Foundationsupported Marsicans, also from Leeds, performed live upstairs in the revamped store, gaining prestigious national and regional media coverage.

“We’re absolutely thrilled with the result; winning this competition is a huge deal for Accent Clothing,” says Becky Schneider, eCommerce Manager at Accent Clothing. “This has given us the ability to do something that we have wanted to do for years: host high quality live music events in store. With the rise of online shopping it is more important than ever that bricks and mortar stores innovate in order to keep customers returning – they have to be a ‘must-visit destination’ in their city. Thank you PRS for Music.”

For 2017, PRS for Music is offering a winning prize of a £5,000 makeover alongside a runners-up prize of £2,500.

So do you think your fashion store would benefit from a Music Makeover?

To enter you need to: 1. Have a valid PRS for Music licence 2. Complete our quick and easy entry form For full details on how to enter, previous winner information and full terms & conditions, please go to: www.prsformusic.com/ musicmakeover Deadline is Friday 16 June 2017 at 5pm

www.prsformusic.com/customerportal

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | INTERVIEW | 31

PROJECT NEW YORK MWB speaks to Erik Ulin, president of menswear at US trade fair Project New York, to discuss the future of trade exhibitions, why online is paramount to the show’s growth and what the next edition has in store for buyers.

— How has Project New York grown since it was launched in 2003?

The show has become the key part of the retailer buying process during the year, with a dominating presence in the market, both in New York and in Las Vegas.

The best brands and buyers build their business and reputation at our shows in both markets and we are very happy with the development of our presence across many categories, including denim, outerwear, sportswear, tailored clothing and athleisure, just to name a few.

Is technology now playing a larger part in your communication with buyers?

Finding new ways of connecting and communicating with our buyers is a constant part of how we try to improve our shows and help our brands. Technology is a key part of this process, as is essentially the case for any part of communication in this world. Among other initiatives, we work through Shop The Floor, our online showroom/marketplace, to enable more than 1,200 brands and 14,000 retailers to connect at any time during the year.

What do you think the future holds for trade shows?

Trade shows remain the most efficient means of making business connections for brands, retailers and media – that has not changed. I do believe trade shows need to be, and are, developing to incorporate more educational aspects of the business of fashion, as well as consumer facing activities and discovery opportunities for technology and innovation. From a buyer perspective, I believe trade fairs are still the most optimal way of keeping connected with current brands and discovering new ones. Given the consolidation in the industry, the value for retailers of visiting trade shows is ever-increasing.

Do you think online developments are important?

I don’t think anyone can ignore or overestimate the importance of online, whether as a brand or a retailer. The fact that anyone can find out any information at any time just by using their mobile phone puts a tremendous amount of pressure on brand messaging, branding, logistics, etc. I think

it is also an opportunity for differentiation, and in a way that doesn’t necessarily have to come with a high price tag.

Social media has provided some younger brands with more of a level playing field in terms of reaching their consumers versus the situation just 5-10 years ago, when a very large advertising budget was required for any type of outreach. So I guess the short answer here is ‘yes’.

Why do you think retailers should visit New York for trade shows?

Our New York markets attract the best brands and retailers to come together and it’s an opportunity to meet great American and international brands who can add newness to a retailer. As the New York shows are more intimate, it’s a good opportunity to spend quality time with brands and designers.

How important is the UK market for you, in terms of buyers and exhibitors?

We have a section of our New York shows called ‘Brits in New York’, who bring a great taste level and excitement to our American retailers. For our exhibitors, the UK is a very important market – the style and the retailers make for a good fit with

our brands and represents a fantastic opportunity for expansion.

What does the s/s 18 edition of Project have in store?

We are always pushing ourselves to create an experience that is inspiring and valuable for retailers and brands alike, and this year is no different. Apart from showcasing brands like Billy Reid, Vince, Theory, Hudson, AG, Paige, Ted Baker, Levi’s, we have worked diligently on the ambience of the shows to make the shopping experience pristine.

Having launched a seminar series in January/ February, we are excited to bring that back, in order to provide valuable insights for retailers and brands to implement in their business.

Naturally, we also enjoy bringing our brands and retailers together for social events during our market weeks.

In addition, Project is continuing to expand in the US menswear market by reuniting again with New York Men’s Day, which occurs on the cusp of New York Men’s Fashion Week, and with Parsons School of Design for the ‘Next In Class’ program as well as making market week more interactive for attendees.

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | PREVIEW | 32

JACKET REQUIRED AND THE BUYER’S EYE Previewing the forthcoming Jacket Required show at The Old Truman Brewery on 26 and 27 July, and catching up with retailers for a mid-year round-up in the meantime, Tom Bottomley gets the word from the frontline.

—

PETER TURNER, DIRECTOR, WELLGOSH, LEICESTER How has business been this season so far?

S/s 17 has, in general, lived up to expectations. Coming off the back of a good autumn/winter season, we got a bit of traction with fresh styles from the topperforming brands, and the introduction of a couple of new labels has worked well for us and freshened things up.

What has been performing well?

Footwear is again massively important for us, in particular top-tier trainers from Adidas, Nike and Reebok. On the apparel side, we have a good offering of Japanese brands that have a keen following in store, and we have continued to build on that this season with CE, Human Made and Nanamica doing well again.

How useful do you find Jacket Required?

The show is a great opportunity for catching up with existing suppliers, as well as having a look at some new brands. It’s also a good chance to have a beer with old industry mates. Despite the UK having suffered in terms of good trade shows, I think Jacket Required now comes close to European and international shows that have in the past tended to be more interesting for us.

Are there any brands you will want to take a closer look at this time at the show?

I have always admired what Kenneth Mackenzie does with 6876, so I would like to have a closer look at that. Also, there seems to be a buzz about corduroy at the minute, so we might have a look at The Cords and Lois to see the specialists at work. There is always something new to pick up at Jacket Required, and even though it’s not the main reason for us being there, we normally come away quite excited about something.

What brands do you always see at the show?

We always get a first look at the new range from Clarks Originals before we do the buy at the showroom, and the same for Nemen and Portuguese Flannel.

What kind of product will you be out to find more of for s/s 18 that you think you may see at Jacket Required?

Anything fresh and interesting really. We generally know which brands we are targeting away from the trade shows, but it’s always nice to see something good that you hadn’t bargained for, and sometimes you can stumble across a gem.

—

DAVID JOHNSON OWNER, JOHN DOUGLAS, MACCLESFIELD How’s business this season?

It’s a rock ‘n’ roll ride, that’s for sure. We’re having amazingly busy days, and then days that are as flat as a flute. It’s a similar story with everyone in the industry that I talk to. It’s good when it’s good, but when it’s bad – it’s bad. So, I’m not looking at figures weekly now, I’m looking at them monthly, and that cheers me up a bit. There are encouraging signs. I’m scoring better with putting outfits together, especially on the tailoring side, though brands such as Pretty Green, Fred Perry and Barbour continue to perform strongly for us.

What will you be looking for at Jacket Required this time?

I’ll just be going with open eyes, as I always do. There’s not particularly any new brands that I’m really looking for, but I’m a great believer in acting on instinct. So, if something is a bit edgy, and a bit different, then I may just slot it in to our mix.

Do you always benefit from attending?

It’s a good place to touch base with people I deal with, and I like the layout because it’s all about product rather than who can build the best stand and look the wealthiest brand. It’s simply about product and people, so I like it a lot. I usually see Replay Jeans and Gibson London there to have a catch up with for the new season. And I’ll have a beer with the lads from Original Penguin.

How important is it for London to still have a major menswear trade show?

It’s definitely an important show, and a lot of guys that I know in the north will tie it in with appointments in London, as I do with seeing the likes of Henri Lloyd. I may not actually place orders at the show, but I will jot down styles that I like, and then place orders over the phone at a later date. I’m pretty easy to deal with when it comes to buying. I either like it, or I don’t. It’s obviously great to see a lot of brands in one hit. One idea would be to do a roadshow with Jacket, maybe do one in Manchester. Variety can be a good thing, then people can visit different cities, and it also might attract some different brands.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | PREVIEW | 33

HENRY THREADINGHAM OWNER, CURATED MAN, RICHMOND AND FARNHAM

THOM SCHERDEL BUYER, THE IDLE MAN How is The Idle Man performing? Is it seeing significant growth already this year?

We’re in a good place. The business plan is to lift 100 per cent every year, and so far we are achieving that. It’s going to be more challenging for a/w 17, as we are up against some bigger numbers from last year, but all the metrics are heading in the right direction.

Are new brands increasingly coming on board to be included in your men’s offer?

We’ve been very well received in the industry and we appreciate that a lot. There is always a sense of reticence around online businesses due to the lack of control, but we play fair and do a really good job for brands in terms of telling their stories and the content we produce. Everyone has been very positive about us, and that kind of news gets around and opens up doors.

What are some of your key brands at the moment?

Jackets are our bestselling category all year round, and Barbour is going from strength to strength. Champion has also smashed it this season. We bought double what we did last year, and sold all of that pretty much straight away. Converse has been big as well.

How do you find the Jacket Required show?

It’s perfect for us because there’s so many brands we sell there. It’s great for catching up about trade, chasing deliveries and booking appointments. We do appointments as well with some of the smaller brands, so we get a lot out of it. And we always come away with something new.

What did you pick up at Jacket Required for a/w 17?

We finalised Portuguese Flannel and Sandqvist, which were ongoing conversations, and we picked up a wicked British grooming brand called Filmore Skincare which has amazing natural products and a great story behind it.

Are there any brands you will be particularly keen to take a look at?

I think the standout for me is 6876. I’ve always been into it, so I’m looking forward to seeing what they have to show. It feels like we need a homegrown talent to step up and start conquering some of the international brands.

Are there any key product types you will be looking for that you think you may see at Jacket Required?

I want to see brands go mad on trousers – shapes, technical fabrics, trackie bottoms. We have seen a big move into a wider cut and combat shapes, and I want to see that develop more. I think trackies are going to be big next year, and they hold a special place in my heart from my chav roots in Grimsby.

—

How has s/s 17 been for you so far? What brands and products have been performing?

S/s 17 was a tricky start with the launch of Curated Man. The shop previously operated as Lizard Menswear, my father’s old business.

He’s now retired, so this is a brand new beginning. Hartford, Oliver Spencer and Edwin have all performed well. Re-ordering sell-outs from all our brands has been key, and I’ll be favouring suppliers who can help meet in-season orders when considering what to grow.

Are you looking at bringing in some new brands going forward?

Anything in particular?

I’m open to new brands for s/s 18, but I’ve already taken on Norse Projects and Universal Works, among some others, for a/w 17. I’m happy to stick with our new brand mix and work on growing our existing strong performers rather than over-complicating things with tiny collections from too many labels.

How useful do you find the Jacket Required show?

It helps to see everything under one roof to get a picture of the way relevant menswear is moving as a whole. I’m usually already in conversation with brands I’m considering bringing on board, but Jacket offers a quick recap to work out if I really want to go to a showroom to place an order.

Are there any brands you want to take a second look at this summer at Jacket Required?

I thought Wood Wood looked promising last season, more grownup and premium, but I didn’t get anything down for it, so I’ll be keen to have a look again this time around and hopefully get something going.

Is it good for meeting with other retailers and getting an idea of what’s performing and what to take a look at?

That’s always a big draw for attending shows. Although we find Richmond can often ignore general trends and be a difficult town, first-hand conversations from other retailers can be the biggest element in persuading me to take a chance on a new brand.

Are you looking forward to the a/w 17 season and starting afresh with new brands and products?

I can’t wait to get a/w 17 in. Summer is always the harder season, but this autumn will see a lot of changes for the store, with a refit planned before the season’s launch, and some great new additions to the brand mix. I’m hoping this will be the season that really lets our customers know what Curated Man will be about, for what will hopefully be many more seasons to come.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | PREVIEW | 34

MODA Taking place on 6-8 August 2017, the UK’s largest fashion trade fair Moda has already attracted an abundance of fresh signings. MWB discovers some of the new brands on show for the s/s 18 season.

—

u

BIRKENSTOCK Footwear favourite Birkenstock will return to Moda Footwear in a new format this season as part of a wider strategy to increase its focus on the UK market. The global brand – which is best-known for its summer styles crafted on a unique moulded footbed – has previously exhibited through a distributor at the show, but will now deal directly with its customers as of s/s 18.

The move comes at a time of significant international growth for the label, which opened new subsidiaries in Spain and Brazil in 2015. A host of new styles will be unveiled for s/s 18, each building upon Birkenstock’s signature properties of being functional, well-made and durable.

—

t

AVENUE 22 Avenue 22 is a luxury streetwear brand that has been designed to offer high quality and comfortable urban wear. With a strong focus on fashion-forward and innovative designs, the brand pushes the boundaries of modern street fashion whilst maintaining fair and competitive price-points. Subtle colours such as taupe, khaki and black make up the core of the collection, with garment highlights being the Raw oversized scoop neck tee and the black suede trucker hat.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | PREVIEW | 35

t

BOWLER & BEACH After enjoying success with its debut swim short collection, Bowler & Beach is set to unveil two new ranges this coming season, as well as expanding its signature Animals collection. Founded by brothers Matt and BJ Hepworth, the brand combines British style with Portuguese flair for men and boys.

Unique design features include contrast draw ropes with branded metal aglets and matching waterproof carry pouch.

The new Classic collection, meanwhile, provides more subtle designs with block colours whilst retaining the high quality, quick drying fabrics Bowler & Beach is renowned for.

—

q

TOM CRIDLAND Having only sold directly to consumers up until now, revolutionary menswear brand Tom Cridland will break into wholesale this spring with its debut at Moda Gent. A sustainable fashion brand, buyers can expect to find a full lifestyle collection, with trousers, T-shirts, jackets and shirts, all designed with a 30-year guarantee.

Made in Portugal and Italy with high quality cotton (360g per metre) and double-reinforced stitching, founder Tom Cridland is confident his product will stand the test of time.

—

p

STALLION CLOTHING Contemporary label Stallion Clothing is an emerging menswear brand, established back in 2013 and born from an already-successful private business company.

With its own manufacturing facility, quick lead times and attention to quality are key to the success for this fledging brand in four years since its inception.

Offering a comprehensive collection of wardrobe staples such as knitwear, T-shirts, outerwear and denim, buyers can expect to find both trend-led designs and more traditional pieces.

—

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | SHOW GUIDE | 36

EXHIBITION CALENDAR The essential guide to the s/s 18 buying season.

— Sponsored by:

LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S 9-12 June Shore Studios, 180 Strand, London 020 7759 1999 londonfashionweekmens.com

RESIDENT SHOWROOM 21-26 June Bastille Design Centre, Paris +33 6 18712840 residentshowroom.com

PITTI UOMO 13-16 June Fortezza da Basso, Florence +39 055 369 3238 pittimmagine.com

MAN PARIS 23-25 June 25 Rue Yves Toudic, Paris +33 9 67420141 manwomanshows.com

WHITE 17-19 June Via Tortona, Milan +39 023 459 2785 whiteshow.it

TRANOÏ PARIS: MEN’S 23-25 June Carreau du Temple & Palais de la Bourse +33 1 53018490 tranoi.com

MILAN MEN’S FASHION WEEK 17-20 June Various venues, Milan +39 027 77 1081 milanomodauomo.it PARIS MEN’S FASHION WEEK 21-25 June Various venues, Paris +33 1 42666444 modeaparis.com

FASHION SVP 27-28 June Olympia London, London 020 8771 3555 fashionsvp.com BRIGHT 4-6 July Arena Berlin, Berlin +49 69 66962157 brighttradeshow.com

PREMIUM 4-6 July Station Exhibition Halls, Berlin +49 30 6290 850 premiumexhibitions.com SHOW & ORDER 4-6 July Kraftwerk Berlin Mitte, Berlin +49 30 20 8891 3400 showandorder.com PANORAMA 4-6 July Messe Berlin, Berlin +49 30 27595 6040 panorama-berlin.com MODEFABRIEK 9-10 July Amsterdam Rai, Amsterdam +31 2 0442 1960 modefabriek.nl HONG KONG FASHION WEEK 10-13 July Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre +852 183 0668 hkfashionweekss.hktdc.com

SEEK 4-6 July Arena Berlin, Berlin +49 30 20 8891 3400 seekexhibitions.com

6–8 August 2017 NEC Birmingham W H E R E FA S H I O N C O M E S TO G E T H E R

Apply to exhibit or register for your ticket at moda-uk.co.uk

LIBERTY LAS VEGAS 14-16 August Sands Expo, Venetian, Las Vegas +1 212 473 4523 libertyfairs.com

MRKET NEW YORK 16-18 July Javits Center, New York +1 218 740 6873 Meketshow.com Project New York 16-18 July Javits Center, New York +1 218 740 6873 ubmfashion.com/show/projectny LIBERTY NEW YORK 17-19 July Hall 3A Javits Center +1 212 473 4523 libertyfairs.com MAN NEW YORK 18-20 July Spring Studios, 50 Varick Street, New York +33 9 6742 0141 manwomanshows.com PURE LONDON 23-25 July Olympia London, London 020 3033 2015 purelondon.com INDX MENSWEAR 23-25 July Cranmore Park, Solihull 0121 683 1417 indxshow.co.uk/menswear JACKET REQUIRED 26-27 July Old Truman Brewery, London 01484 846 069 jacket-required.com MODA GENT 6-8 August NEC, Birmingham 01484 846 069 moda-uk.co.uk

POOL 14-16 August Mandalay Bay Convention Centre, Las Vegas +1 218 740 6873 magiconline.com/pooltradeshow MODA FOOTWEAR 6-8 August NEC, Birmingham 01484 846 069 moda-uk.co.uk COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK 8-12 August Various venues, Copenhagen +45 7020 3068 copenhagenfashionweek.com CIFF 9-11 August Bella Centre, Copenhagen +45 5060 4521 ciff.dk CIFF RAVEN 9-11 August Bella Centre, Copenhagen +45 5060 4521 ciff.dk REVOLVER 9-11 August Øksnehallen, Halmtorvet, Copenhagen +45 3964 8586 revolver.dk

PROJECT LAS VEGAS 14-16 August Mandalay Bay Convention Center, Las Vegas +1 218 740 6873 ubmfashion.com/shows/project COLLECTION PREMIÈRE MOSCOW 30 August – 1 September Expocentre Moscow +49 2 1143 9601 cpm-moscow.com LONDON EDGE 3-4 September Business Design Centre, London 0116 279 5179 londonedge.com TOP DRAWER 10-12 September 2017 Olympia, London 020 7384 7751 topdrawer.co.uk MICAM 17-20 September Fiera Milano, Milan +39 0243 8291 themicam.com

GALLERY INTERNATIONAL STUDIO CPH 9-12 August Forum Copenhagen +45 3312 0930 gallery.dk

BEST OF BRITANNIA 12-13 October The Boiler House, Brick Lane, London 0333 323 1224 bestofbritannia.com

SOURCING AT MAGIC 13-16 August Las Vegas Convention Centre +1 218 740 6873 umbfashion.com/shows/ sourcing-magic

ASIA APPAREL EXPO 22-24 February 2018 Messe Berlin, Berlin +852 2700 6726 asiaapparelexpo.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | ECO LABELS | 38

DRESSING RESPONSIBLY With an increasing number of brands turning their focus to sustainable clothing, the popularity of slow fashion within the menswear industry is on the rise. MWB discovers more about the labels with an ethical conscience.

— u

RAPANUI Starting life in a shed on the Isle of Wight back in 2009, brothers Rob and Mart Drake-Knight founded sustainable clothing brand Rapanui with just £200.

After a year of highs and lows, the brand launched with its first organic cotton collection, aiming to solve sustainability problems in not only fashion, but technology too.

Products produced are made from ethical textiles such as rPET and British wool, while you’ll also find cutting-edge, low waste printing technology. The brand also offers an incentivised material recovery programme where shoppers can freepost their garments back, even if customised, to be repurposed. There is even an interactive trace map, which allows customers to see where the clothing comes from and how it’s made. With its own standalone store in the Isle of Wight and a growing wholesale account base, Rapanui is definitely one to watch for the new season. www.rapanuiclothing.com

q

ABSOLUTELY BEAR Absolutely Bear is a London clothing brand that was established in 2016 by husband and wife team Nick and Olivia Fletcher, designed with the goal of combining fashion with giving help to help improve the lives of vulnerable people and animals.

The bear symbol, which has become synonymous with the brand, represents “strength, respect and caring”. Through the Bear Fund, which the design duo founded, 10 per cent of all profits are given to two charity partners, BECOME and The Born Free Foundation.

Absolutely Bear recently launched its s/s 17 collection, which includes screen printed and embroidered T-shirts and vests, embroidered polo shirts, hoodies and jumpers, as well as a range of accessories including bags and caps.

Where possible, the brand’s suppliers are members of the Fair West Foundation, an independent, non-profit organisation that works with companies and factories to improve labour conditions for garment workers. www.absolutelybear.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | ECO LABELS | 39

t

KOMODO

q

AMOV Founded in 2014 by Kasper Eis, AMOV focuses on balance, responsibility and giving back. With a name derived from a quote by Albert Einstein – “Try not to become a man of success, but rather A Man Of Value” – the brand strives to be a pioneer in the fashion industry with its use of organic and sustainable materials. At the heart of everything is the need to give back, and with every $1 that AMOV makes, it will give the same to various charities.

For a/w 17 the brand continues with its casual, sports inspired sweat styles and basic jerseys. Neutral colours like black, white and cool greys act as the base of the collection, with muted shades of olive, amber, mauve and indigo added to give a more wearable edge to the range. Organic cotton is still the most essential fabric, but this season sees the use of recycled polyester, mulesing free wool and Tencel. The brand has also introduced a small range of accessories, designed with a focus on longevity. www.amovapparel.com

Ethical fashion brand Komodo has been creating contemporary, casual pieces using high quality organic, natural and innovative eco fibres for almost over 30 years, including organic cotton and hemp, 100 per cent merino wool (from certified non-mulesed sources) and recycled polyester.

Key styles in the a/w 17 collection include the Rey (pictured), which is a 100 per cent merino wool jumper, the Caster trousers, which are 100 per cent organic cotton and the Lumber shirt, which is 30 per cent wool and 70 per cent recycled polyester.

The aim of Komodo is to provide an affordable alternative to the culture of fast fashion by balancing classic designs and silhouettes with sustainability. Staff welfare at the factories used by Komodo is at the core of the brand’s ethos, with the design team visiting factories regularly to meet and work alongside the people who bring their collections to life. www.komodo.co.uk

p

THOUGHT Formerly Braintree Clothing, Thought is currently enjoying great success with its womenswear collection throughout the UK, and its menswear counterpart isn’t far behind. The award winning clothing brand uses fabrics such as organic cotton, hemp, wool and breathable bamboo, with wholesale prices starting from £11.95.

For a/w 17, Thought turns to the flora and fauna of the Scottish Highlands, focusing on a comprehensive range of printed shirts – sitting confidently alongside a capsule range of wardrobe favourites such as knitwear and a brand new waterproof jacket style. www.wearethought.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | PEOPLE | 40

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK CHCM 2 BOND STREET, NEW YORK, 10012

SIMON SAYS Contrary to my image as a worldly urban sophisticate, at heart, I’m a bit of a country boy. Long-suffering regular readers will recall my love for my cottage in Norfolk. So when my childhood friend Ben rang and said, “Do you fancy a couple of days fly fishing on the Usk?” I said yes.

If, like me, you have no idea where the Usk is, then I shall enlighten you. It’s in South Wales. By a stroke of serendipity I was in Cardiff that day, doing a ‘smile and wave’ at House of Fraser. It was the last branch that I visited on my year-long roadshow, following our conversion from HoF own bought, to concession. Like the other stores, the sales have increased massively and I always find it uplifting to meet the teams, who are so passionate about the brand.

So being so close, I could hardly say no. I left enough time to visit Garry Evans, the renowned fishing tackle shop of Cardiff (as they boasted on their website), to find that they were, seriously, insane about fishing. Mark, my salesman, had fishes tattooed all the way up his arm, and boy, did he see me coming. “Ah, from London are we?” he said with the same glint in his eye as when he spies a vast carp lurking in shallow waters.

Laden with waders, rod, reel and endless flies with arcane names like Dusky Bishop, and Summer Nymph, I caught the train to Abergavenny, and thence to Crickhowell. The Usk is a wide, fast flowing river of almost indescribable beauty. I was as much taken with the scenery and wildlife as with the fishing. I’d only been once before, on a boys’ trip to the Lakes, where I had been epically ripped off by a mini cab driver; embarrassed myself massively at the pub quiz; lost £100 at poker; tipped my mobile into the river and didn’t catch a minnow. So my hopes were not high.

Ben has been fly fishing since he was six. Paradise for him is standing in a cold river up to his armpits in the pouring rain. Within the first 10 minutes he caught a two-pound brown trout, and then proceeded to catch another six. By the end of the day it was feeling like a re-run of the Lakes saga as I hadn’t even had a bite. Ben took pity on me, and guided me out to the deepest part of the river, way out of my comfort zone, and then proceeded to help we land a whopper. I was so happy. But one was enough, and the next day I was content to watch the heron, and the otter, and the kingfishers. And an old friend up to his chest in a cold river.

When I returned to the office on the Monday, everyone commented on how relaxed and rested I seemed. We all have such hectic lives and despite our promises to ourselves every January 1st that ‘this year will be different’, inevitably, it’s not. We’ll never the find the right work/life balance, but to occasionally shift it in the right direction is very valuable.

— Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores

Established in 2008 as a multibrand online store, CHCM opened a physical store in New York’s Lower Manhattan district in 2010. The designer menswear store stocks a host of international labels which generally embody a contemporary, minimalistic aesthetic. Stemming from an appreciation of craftsmanship, owner Sweetu Patel opened the store as a means to stock investment pieces. Brands are selected with consideration and it’s evident that extensive research has gone into history and manufacturing practices.

Visitors can browse the likes of Adsum, Druthers, Frogs Eat Butterflies and Arpenteur, and footwear from Wild Bunch, Lunge and Erkn. The minimal in-store decor and white design seen in the store interior further reflects the feeling of exclusivity and transforms the small space. Despite its compactness, the store introduced an in-house line in 2014. Sitting alongside the store’s existing menswear offering, the CHCM line consists of jeans, shirts, jackets and blazers – all with a high attention to craftsmanship, of course.

—

PLAN B

ALESSANDRO PUNGETTI Designer, Baracuta

I’ve always had dreams of being an architect – something I blame on my background at art school.

— For as long as I can remember, I’ve been fascinated with design and the technicalities behind things; this is something that has always applied to my work. There’s something about designing and creating buildings that has always interested me. I’ve always thought it would be exciting to be able to say that I created a building that has different meanings to different people.

Memories can be made and stories can be told through buildings. Maybe it’s the mix of the technical, exact science of architecture, combined with the fantasy, romance and history of buildings.

I’ve been lucky enough in my career that I’ve been able to create and work on pieces which match my passions, and that a lot of my job shares qualities with what I imagine would be those of an architect’s role.

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | PEOPLE | 41

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL REECE CRISP MENSWEAR BUYING MANAGER, FARFETCH I tend to favour minimal pieces – I always start with a simple base layer and will build on or accent with key items, such as a printed shirt or jacket. My recent investment into basics were a raw edge seam sweatshirt by Maison Margiela, and a long sleeved white T-shirt by Alexander Wang. The last jacket I bought was on Farfetch and is by Our Legacy in a gingham print. A good jacket is always something I’m willing to spend a little more on.

I’ve been collecting vintage pieces for as long as I can remember. I am obsessed with vintage military: I can’t leave a vintage store without an old surplus item. My most recent vintage purchase was a khaki army surplus jacket. At Farfetch we platform some amazing vintage specialist boutiques who spend their time solely dedicated to buying and curating vintage items. From Angelo Vintage in Italy, to House of Liza in London and Dot COMME in Melbourne, these boutiques have a completely unique offering and viewpoint, and because of this we have a great dedicated vintage section on site. You’ll always catch me in vintage Levi’s, specifically from their Made in USA line. My favourite vintage piece has to be one of my shirts by Jams World. Their vintage Hawaiian prints are so synonymous with the brand, and their entire range of vintage shirts are amazing, but are hard to find.

Being menswear buying manager at Farfetch means I’m lucky enough to be able to travel a lot. My role isn’t a traditional buying role, as I act as an internal consultant for our boutiques and brand partners, working closely with them to make sure Farfetch is first to the market with the best offering. I love going from shows, to appointments, to showrooms, to meetings at Farfetch partner stores. As a buyer, I have always pushed myself to see as much as I physically can, whilst at market, to make sure I don’t miss anything. Because I’m always on the go, it’s important that my footwear is comfortable.

My signature sneakers are Vans. They’re a classic casual item and are definitely my go-to choice for footwear.

SOCIETY

TOP TWEETS Grey Fox @GreyFoxBlog It’s Meet the Manufacturer this week and I look forward to catching up with friends and brands manufacturing in the UK London Fashion Week @LondonFashionWk Celebrating the 5th anniversary of #LFWM! Discover the special edition of the #LFWM logo designed by iconic British artist @ TraceyEmin Sam Johnson @samjnsn When you’re excited for plans with your mate and they come out with the three most disappointing words possible: “I might drive.”

Accent Clothing @AccentClothing #LocalLeeds for the bank holiday and beyond!

James Ellaby @jamesellaby A reminder about free speech – Katie Hopkins is free to say whatever she wants.

LBC are free not to want to pay her to say it.

British GQ @BritishGQ Happy birthday to the style icon that is @LennyKravitz Caelan (Kale-ann) @betterhalfblog Always feel bad getting my hair cut & styled in the evening, because I’ve to go to bed & wreck a masterpiece @beyoutifulni #men #hairstyle Andrea Mann @AndreaMann #BritishThreatLevels We’ve run out of teabags.

Stephen Fry @stephenfry Is it bad of me to look down slightly on those who don’t re-correct their end-of-sentence kisses to lower case, i.e. Xxx instead of xxx?

THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p LUXURY RETAILER HARVEY NICHOLS AND LONDON BASED ARTISTS HSIAO-CHI AND KIMIYA TSAI-YOSHIKAWA HAVE COLLABORATED ON A VIBRANT WINDOW SCHEME, 10 YEARS ON FROM THEIR FIRST PROJECT TOGETHER.

p INDEPENDENT RETAIL STORE BIAS, LOCATED IN HARROGATE, WELCOMED CUSTOMERS AND FRIENDS TO ITS FIRST EVER FASHION SHOW HELD AT STUZZI LAST MONTH, WHERE GUESTS ENJOYED CANAPES, DRINKS AND GOODIE BAGS.

p FOOTWEAR BRAND KEEN UNEEK HAS TAPPED A COLLECTIVE OF LONDON’S EMERGING CREATIVES, RENOWNED FOR THEIR UNIQUE TAKE ON STREETWEAR STYLE. MILAN BORN MODEL EMILY O’DONNELL, SOCIAL CONTENT ARTIST BEN COLSON, MODEL BOYD ALVES, THE BOO KID YUMI CARTER AND ‘CESTAMATIQ’ DJ CONNOR GAFFE ALL FEATURE IN A CAMPAIGN SHOT ON LOCATION IN HACKNEY, EAST LONDON.

MWB-ONLINE.CO

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | 43

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

NORTHAMPTON SHOE COMPANY LAUNCHES PREMIUM SNEAKER LINE The county known for its high quality Goodyear Welted footwear now has a brand to compete with the premium end sneakers that have increasingly permeated the market in recent years. Crown Northampton has evolved from a family run business that was founded in 1908 by Earnest Woodford. Five generations on, the Woodford family is still producing quality handmade footwear, using fine materials and utilising knowledge and skills passed down from generation to generation. Except now they are also looking at market trends and producing their very own top-end sneakers, under the Crown Northampton brand name, retailing at £185.

Crown Northampton is now the Woodford factory’s flagship brand and one of the few companies with the privilege of being allowed to use the town’s crest on its products, with a motto from 1617 that translates as ‘Peace is stronger than a fortress’. Every boot and shoe is made in the Northampton factory by highly skilled cobblers, many of whom are following in their ancestors’ footsteps by working in the local shoe industry.

With so many of Northampton’s amazing shoe factories forced to close down over the years, unable to deal with overseas competition and pricing, it’s heart-warming to hear an old company adapt to market forces, stay at the higher end, yet offer something completely fresh.

It’s little wonder the likes of Barneys New York, and Japanese retailers Beams, Isetan, Loftman, Nest Robe and Urban Research have taken on board this new offer with grateful hands.

‘Special Make Up’ and collaborative product is available on request, but subject to minimums and design agreement. To top it off nicely, once fully finished, each pair of shoes is carefully examined then date stamped before dispatch.

Now that’s a classy touch in my book.

A BIKE HELMET YOU ACTUALLY WANT TO WEAR, SURELY NOT? It’s the old conundrum: choosing between sporting one of those generic bike helmets that make you look a bit of a geek, opting for a skateboard helmet from a brand like Bern so you at least look vaguely with the programme, or just

p THE NEW BJÖRN BORG FILM, BORG

p CROWN NORTHAMPTON u THOUSAND HELMETS’ EPOCH LINE

going old skool with no helmet (combine with 70s Raleigh Chopper and fag). Now, however, comes another solution, a bike helmet you might actually want to wear. Thousand helmets, creators of classically designed and innovative bicycle helmets, celebrates the company’s second anniversary with the debut of their new Epoch helmet line.

The new collection is apparently inspired by the past tales of Steve McQueen and the iconic Bel Air Cadillac as well as Nordic Modernism. The minimalist clean lines, non-bulky design, great colours and cool branding are likely to appeal to more style-savvy riders. What’s more, the helmets have seven air vents and three cooling channels to provide optimum airflow, and the vegan leather straps keep the eco-friendly preachers happy too.

You can also lock the helmet to your bike with its innovative PopLock system, another great idea to stop you walking in the pub like you’ve just competed in a bike race and got lost. And the brand even offers a bike helmet theft guarantee, so if your helmet gets half-inched while securely locked to your bike, Thousand will replace it.

BJÖRN BORG RETRO STYLE GETS RE-INVENTED Björn Borg has announced an exclusive Stockholm Fashion Week show, taking place on 31 August at the Royal Tennis Hall in Stockholm, where Borg started his career. For the very first time the public will be able to buy the collection there and then. The runway show, called ‘V E R S U S’, is a tribute to Borg’s past. The collection is created in relation to the already announced collaboration between Björn Borg and the new film, Borg (see pic) about his early career up until his Wimbledon victory against John McEnroe in 1980.

The limited edition Signature Collection takes inspiration from Björn Borg’s personal style both on and off court, and is a vintage sportswear inspired range with retro details.

The clothes worn in the film were apparently just made for the film, and are not part of the new collection, which is probably a good thing as Fila, and Sergio Tacchini for that matter, may have something to say about those tracksuit jackets.

There’s only so far you can go with ‘inspired by’ after all.

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | DIRECTORY | 44

CASUALWEAR

FORMALWEAR

SUITS

WANTED

WANTED

STOCK WANTED Menswear, childrenswear, ladieswear Fashion wanted, Any Make Any Style, Cancelled Orders Unwanted Stock, Over Stock Best Prices given, CASH PAID EPOS

GARMENT STANDS

Ring: 07944444508 / 07421594958

To advertise please call Sharon Le Goff on +44 (0)1484 846069 or email sharon@ras-publishing.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | INFORMATION | 45

SUBSCRIPTIONS

To subscribe to MWB simply call +44 (0)1484 846069 or visit mwb-online.co EU £75 (includes p+p) Outside EU £146 (includes p+p)

MWB-ONLINE.CO JUNE 2017 | LAST ORDERS | 46

LAST ORDERS WITH...

WARREN ANDERSON With over 200 wholesale accounts nationwide, Soulstar brand manager Warren Anderson speaks to Victoria Jackson about the success of the streetwear label, both at home and internationally, and the decision to launch its new premium offering.

— DOB: 13/09/1968 Place of birth: Bristol Lives: Nottingham Twitter: @SoulStarGear Website: www.soulstarclothing.com Can you tell us how Soulstar came about?

Soulstar has actually been a long time coming.

The owners, Paul and Shaker, have a retail history going back more than 30 years with a base in Doncaster. They used to own the best store in town – all the coolest guys either shopped there or worked there.

They kept being asked why they hadn’t started their own brand but they preferred retail.

As time went on, they were spotting trends but couldn’t find product to match so finally decided to set up their own label. This was around 2008 but I’d say the real push to develop Soulstar started in 2014. They’d had two great seasons back to back and feedback was at an all time high.

How would you describe the Soulstar man?

He’s an everyday guy who takes pride in what he wears but he’s not a fashion victim. He subscribes to that old adage ‘clothes make the man’ but fashion has to fit his lifestyle. He’s more comfortable picking what’s right for him with a nod to the trends.

How many wholesale accounts do you have in the UK currently?

We have roughly 200 accounts in the UK. They’re a mixture of bricks and mortar with a much bigger online contingent in the past few years. We’ve learned to adapt because the needs of the latter can be wide and varied, particularly depending upon where they trade globally.

Do you sell in any international markets?

Yes we do. It’s quite a diverse range of countries actually. We’ve been on the US trade show circuit with a particular focus on Agenda, which has a great global reach. These are places we never imagined we’d be selling the brand into, particularly because our POV is very UK but maybe that’s why we’ve been successful.

Which is your best performing market?

The USA has seen our biggest growth over the past few years. We opened up a new office in LA last year, complementing the one in New York, and that improved our presence greatly, both in terms of new west coast business but also access to US celebrities in ways we hadn’t been able to reach before.

Do you think social media platforms such as Instagram have helped the brand develop, especially with the rise of celebrity culture and digital influencers?

Social media has been a great help to get in touch with actual customers. Ultimately, however good you think the collection is, the final litmus test is the cash paying consumer. We have a global network of brand ambassadors that we seed product to throughout the design process and we pay great attention to the reaction they get online.

Why did you launch Soulstar Premium?

It was a mixture of things. Some of our existing customer base had passed the buying on to their kids and they were looking for different product.

Also just spending time in our home market in Nottingham, it was obvious there was a hunger for more high fashion-led product, but at an affordable price. Nottingham is the most oversubscribed university in the UK and there are more than 48,000 students, wanting to look good but on a budget.

Ultimately we want to reflect our home base and take inspiration from it. My personal favourite is an embroidered jacket. The debate about the intricate embroidery took almost as long as creating it, so I guess that wins by default.

How has the reaction been this season to the launch?

Extremely positive overall. We’ve opened a different tier of accounts both here and in the USA which in turn has been positive for Soulstar Classic. We’ve had more press this season than we’ve had for the past few years combined. In fairness we’ve treated Premium very differently to the original collection but those are lessons we plan to leverage next season.

What can we expect from the brand this coming season?

Building a brand is an ongoing process and you have to able to evolve without losing your point of view. We’ve learned quite a bit from the first collection and have already adapted for the autumn collection. We’ve expanded the team with a mixture of new graduates and experienced designers to ensure we have different handwriting to the main collection.

contemporary fashion trade show

4 - 6 july arena berlin www.seekexhibitions.com

2 6 & 2 7 J U LY 2 0 1 7 MENSWEAR | WOMENSWEAR R E G I S T E R N O W AT J A C K E T - R E Q U I R E D . C O M