MWB MAGAZINE JANUARY 2018 ISSUE 244 by fashion buyers Ltd

ISSUE 244 | JANUARY 2018 | Â£6.95

Photo via John Kobal Foundation/Getty Images

MWB-ONLINE.CO

THE LOW-DOWN ON JACKET REQUIRED, FROM THE BRANDS TO THE BUYERS HOW MILLENNIALS ARE CHANGING THE FACE OF FAST FASHION THE TRENDS SET TO DOMINATE THE A/W 18 SEASON

AUTUMN/WINTER AUTUMN/WINTER 18 18

COLLECTION COLLECTION NOW NOW AVAILABLE AVAILABLE TO VIEW TO VIEW SEE USSEE ATUS AT

INDX INDX Cranmore Cranmore ParkPark Exhibition Exhibition Centre, Centre, Solihull Solihull 28th28th – 30th – 30th January January MODA MODA GENT GENT NECNEC Birmingham Birmingham 18th18th – 20th – 20th February February Stand Stand N30N30 FOR MORE FOR MORE INFORMATION INFORMATION CONTACT CONTACT US TODAY US TODAY ON ON T 0113 240 T 0113 2211240 E leo.lachs@skopes.com 2211 E leo.lachs@skopes.com

G E N T 18â&#x20AC;&#x201C;20 February 2018 NEC Birmingham

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MWB-ONLINE.CO JANUARY 2018 | CONTENTS | 09

F E A T U R E S 14

Online Insider

Advice, news and issues online

Retail Insider

The latest in-store news

How fast fashion has captivated the millennial market

Our monthly report on a key industry issue

Product News

Rounding up the key stories this month

In-season stock

Dock of the bay

The Edit

Accessories and add-ons to consider in store

M.C Overalls shouts out with new shop

Tom Bottomley speaks to charismatic M.C. Overalls CEO, James Scroggs

King of the creeper bounces back

Profiling iconic footwear brand George Cox

Jacket Required

Interviews and news ahead of January’s show

The a/w 18 lowdown

The trends, new launches and retailer views for the new season

New Beach Retail Ltd.

Tom Bottomley profiles the UK contemporary fashion agency

Farah Jeans ups the game

We discover what’s driving the growth of Farah’s latest development

First look at Moda Gent

Footwear and apparel brands to check this edition

Return to your roots

Our seasonal young fashion shoot

R E G U L A R S 11 12 20

Comment News Interview

Jason Schott

76 79 82

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Mark de Lange

Front cover:

Schott NYC 07432 723974 Photo by John Kobal Foundation/Getty Images

MEN COLLECTION AUTUMN/ WINTER 2018

Brian Winterbourne Ltd. 15a Manor Lane | LE15 7JL Langham Oakham Phone: +44 157 272 393 1 | Mobile: +44 788 930 547 9 bwinterbourne@btinternet.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO JANUARY 2018 | COMMENT | 11

COMMENT E D I T O R Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — D E P U T Y

E D I T O R

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — C O N T R I B U T O R S Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — D E S I G N E R S Michael Podger mick@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — S E N I O R

S A L E S

M A N A G E R

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — S U B S C R I P T I O N S Phil Cowley phil.cowley@moda-exhibitions.co.uk — H E A D

O F

M E N S W E A R

Silvia Collins silvia@moda-uk.co.uk — E D I T O R I A L

D I R E C T O R

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — P O R T F O L I O

D I R E C T O R

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — M A R K E T I N G

D I R E C T O R

Stephanie Parker stephanie@ite-exhibitions.co.uk —

MWB is published 6 times per year by ITE Moda Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2018 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither ITE Moda Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication. Reprographics/printing Image Colourprint 01482 652323 —

Both fascinating and daunting in equal measure, this month we’ve been discovering the retail trends that are set to shape 2018, thanks to The Future 100 report compiled by Innovation Group. And what better time than January to learn more about what’s in store for retail over the forthcoming 12 months? — It’s fair to say the changes within the retail landscape are happening at a rapid pace, thanks to technological advances and consumers’ demands on brands. The Future 100 report outlined ten trends, one of which is the use of augmented reality (AR), with stores now offering virtual tours throughout their stores as the consumer sits in their front living room – marrying online and offline worlds to create, what brands hope is, a seamless, intuitive customer experience. I have a confession in that last Christmas I was bought an AR headset myself and, in all honesty, the novelty had worn off by Boxing Day evening. However, it will be interesting to see how and when this filters down from high-end stores onto the high street. Another noteworthy development for 2018 is the movement of URL turning to IRL – that’s “in real life” to you and me. This year will see ecommerce-only brands move into bricks and mortar locations to give the customer the complete shopping experience – Missguided, for example, carried this out successfully in both Westfield in 2016 and Bluewater Shopping Centre last year. One trend set to drive independent retailers ahead of the game is the launch of new staffless retail concepts. I like a self-service till in a busy supermarket as much as the next person, but when I’m in a clothing shop, having a member of staff on hand to help is essential. The trend for faceless retail will hopefully drive people into stores where customer service comes first – their local independent, where knowledge is key and robots are a thing of fantasy. As you read, many of you will be in the midst of the buying season so with that said, welcome to your comprehensive guide to a/w 18 – from the trends to consider to what to expect from this month’s Jacket Required. Partnering with Trouva, the online marketplace for independent retailers, this edition of the show gives you the opportunity to not only discover niche labels and new products, but to grab a coffee with the team behind the successful ecommerce site. Head to p36 to read our interview with co-founder Mandeep Singh. Here’s to a prosperous 2018 for all and I, for one, am looking forward to bucking the trend and putting the human back into retail. Victoria Jackson Editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by ITE Moda Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. ITE Moda Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

MWB-ONLINE.CO JANUARY 2018 | NEWS | 12

N E W S

SEWPORT RECONNECTS FASHION BRANDS WITH MANUFACTURERS

SHOPPERS TO LOSE OUT IF UK DOESN’T ADOPT EU GLOBAL TRADE DEAL New evidence from the British Retail Consortium (BRC) has shown the importance to UK consumers of maintaining the benefits of trade deals the EU has negotiated with other countries. As a member of the EU, the UK currently benefits from zero to low rate tariffs on various imports from trade deals that the EU has negotiated with third countries. On 30 March 2019, the UK will leave the EU and from that moment on, will no longer be covered by these international agreements – meaning imported goods will be subject to higher tariffs and potential customs barriers. For the end consumer this equals a higher overall price. Using import data from UK retailers, the BRC identified the countries where negotiating replica agreements will make the most difference to ensure prices don’t rise immediately on exit. Said deals are particularly important for the price of food and clothing for shoppers in the UK. For instance, in the event of no deal, the tariff on clothing from Turkey – a major supplier to the UK – could rise from zero to 12 per cent. “While securing a deal with the EU to enable tariff-free trade to continue remains the priority, the deals the EU has negotiated with countries around the world also contribute to the choice and affordability of goods UK shoppers purchase every day,” says Andrew Opie, director of Food & Sustainability, BRC. “People need reassurance from the government that these deals will be transferred in time to ensure that UK consumers don’t lose out. “New higher tariffs inevitability mean that consumers would face higher prices in their everyday shop, as staple products such as fruit, vegetables and clothing would be hardest hit. Price increases of any scale would add to the burden of hard-pressed consumers, whose finances are already being squeezed by inflationary prices. “Now that an agreement has been reached to move the negotiations on to trade, the focus must be on securing the continuity of free trade with Europe, alongside replicating these existing agreements with countries outside the EU. These are the crucial next steps that the government needs to take to avoid a cliffedge situation on Brexit day and deliver a fair Brexit for consumers,” he concludes. —

New British company Sewport has launched an online platform designed to connect manufacturers with fashion brands of all shapes and sizes. Representing a modern solution to the garment production process, the platform aims to revolutionise communication between brands and service providers. As well as benefiting established fashion brands, Sewport also caters for start-ups, guiding emerging designers through the entire garment production process via intelligent online tools. Sewport can also enable the collaboration of multiple service providers on a single project. Via a built-in multi-user chat room, brands can invite multiple companies to join a discussion. All communication and attachment exchange is then conveniently carried out on the platform, allowing manufacturers to pool their capabilities to satisfy a client’s needs. —

BOARDRIDERS TAKES OVER RIVAL BUSINESS BILLABONG Boardriders Inc, the parent company of brands such as Quiksilver (pictured), Roxy and DC Shoes, has announced an agreement to take over all shares of rival surfwear label Billabong International Limited. In a bid to create to create “the world’s leading action sports company”, the California-based company expects the transaction – which also includes the takeover of sister brands RVCA, Element, VonZipper and Xcel – to be completed during the first half of 2018. The takeover will lead to the creation of the world’s leading action sports company, with more than 630 retail stores in 28 countries. The new combined company aims to serve action sports enthusiasts with a full range of innovative product lines. Following the transaction, Dave Tanner, chief turnaround officer for Boardriders, is set to be appointed CEO of Boardriders Inc. Pierre Agnes, the current CEO of Boardriders, meanwhile, will become President of Boardriders. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO JANUARY 2018 | NEWS | 13

NEWS IN BRIEF

PRODUCTION UP 25 PER CENT FOR UK TEXTILE MANUFACTURING

DEBENHAMS APPOINTS NEW FASHION AND HOME MD

UK textile manufacturing is booming with production up 25 per cent and 50 per cent of businesses reporting an increase in turnover compared to last year, according to the annual survey conducted by Make it British. Kate Hills, founder and CEO of Make it British, explains: “This survey reveals that 2017 has been another great year for the sector. There is increased interest from overseas and more companies are looking to source locally. As a result, more factories are opening or working longer hours.” The increase in production and turnover is being helped in part by the exchange rate working in UK manufacturers’ favour. One manufacturer reported: “As the pound loses its value our turnover has increased by 30 per cent.” While around a third of UK textile manufacturers are exporting more than they were in 2016, there is a massive opportunity for growth as another third reported that they weren’t yet exporting. —

From this month, Steven Cook, former chief merchant of Canada’s luxury retailer Holt Renfrew, is to join Debenhams as managing director of fashion and home. Cook will lead the business unit that oversees the organisation’s buying, design and merchandising divisions for these categories, as it continues to implement the Debenhams Redesigned strategy. Cook’s appointment follows a global search, and sees Debenhams commence plans to structure around three business units: beauty and beauty services, fashion and home, and food and events. Cook’s retail, fashion and manufacturing experience spans a number of leading brands including Calvin Klein and Badgley Mischka, as well as Polo Ralph Lauren, J. Crew and Nike. “I am hugely excited to become part of the Debenhams team at this time of transformation,” says Cook. —

MCARTHURGLEN ANNOUNCES £160M JOINT VENTURE Designer outlet group McArthurGlen Group has announced a joint venture with U+I, Rioja Developments Limited and Aviva Investors (on behalf of Aviva Life and Pensions) and The Richardson Family to develop a new designer outlet in Cannock, 30 minutes from Birmingham, the UK’s largest regional city. The creation of the joint venture will see a combined investment of more than £160 million in the project, with the development spanning 26,500 sq m of GLA across two phases, including improvements to the road infrastructure. The project will be developed and built by McArthurGlen, U+I and Rioja Developments and, once it is completed, McArthurGlen will manage the centre. — DIGITAL RETAIL INNOVATION CENTRE TO OPEN IN UK The UK’s first national centre for digital retail innovation will open in the Eastgate Shopping Centre in Gloucester this year, with £400,000 awarded to Marketing Gloucester by Gloucestershire’s Local Enterprise Partnership, GFirst LEP. The UK Digital Retail Innovation Centre will be located on the first floor of Eastgate, with the aim of becoming a national centre for testing and developing disruptive digital innovations that will help shape and inform the future of cities with a special focus on retail. The centre will also showcase the latest retail technologies and include possible future innovations such as holographic “virtual employees”, artificial intelligence, 3D scanning and printing of products, drone deliveries, robotic security guards, 360o virtual mirrors and near-field communication. — BOOHOOMAN LAUNCHES SPORTSWEAR COLLECTION Online fast fashion brand BoohooMan has unveiled its first activewear collection, following the success of its mainline menswear collection. The range features 54 products, including T-shirts, tracksuits and shorts, ranging from £6 to £40. —

MWB PARTNERS WITH MODA GENT FOR A/W 18

OLYMP UNVEILS LEVEL FIVE SMART BUSINESS COLLECTION

For the first time ever, MWB has teamed up with the UK’s largest trade fair, Moda Gent, to deliver content specific to the menswear trade, allowing retailers to gain an edge for the a/w 18 season. The forthcoming show, taking place on the 1820 February 2018, will host engaging panel discussion “The New Dandy”, which will give awardwinning brands and retailers to opportunity to share the secrets of creating the key look of the season. Highlighting the growing focus on the grooming industry, Moda Gent will introduce a brand new area, created in conjunction with the Gentleman’s Grooming Show and Drongo London. Retailers will be able to discover a range of premium hair and beard products and see live demonstrations with an interactive barbershop space. Buyers arriving at the opening of the show on Sunday are invited to a complimentary breakfast at the Hall 18 catwalk at 10.30 hosted by MWB. —

German shirt specialist Olymp has unveiled the latest development in its premium business line this season, the Level Five Smart Business Shirt. Designed in response to the trend for more casual looks in the workplace, the Level Five Business Shirt is the perfect hybrid for effortless premium style. Classic woven fabrics and detailing such as collar stiffeners maintain Olymp’s signature business look, while Level Five’s body-fit and new colour spectrum of blue, grey-blue and white position the line perfectly with the contemporary casual workplace. “With the decision to introduce the Olymp Level Five Smart Business range, we are reflecting the market trend towards a casual style of clothing within the business world, but one which is still absolutely appropriate for the office,” says Mark Bezner, Olymp’s managing director. —

STONE ISLAND REVEALS 36 PER CENT INCREASE IN REVENUE Iconic Italian outerwear brand, Stone Island, has shared its trading figures for the 2017 financial year, showing a 36 per cent increase in revenue year-on-year with 2016. Sales with foreign markets have seen growth across the board, weighing approximately 67 per cent of total revenue. Strong markets after Italy are the UK, Germany and Holland. Retail roll-out plans, meanwhile, will see Stone Island open a flagship store in Venice, and potential locations in Tokyo and Milan. It has recently inaugurated its new location in Los Angeles and renewed its store in Seoul. Finally, the s/s 18 collection has registered growth of over 35 per cent on orders in comparison to the s/s 17 sales campaign. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO JANUARY 2018 | ADVICE | 14

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: THE BOOMERANG EFFECT: MAKING A RETURN A REMARKETING OPPORTUNITY

FRANK LOCHBAUM IS MANAGING PARTNER AT KPS EXPERTS ON DESIGNING, BUILDING AND IMPLEMENTING THE PROCESSES RETAILERS NEED TO OPERATE PROFITABLY IN A MULTICHANNEL WORLD.

Unfortunately, while returns are a big part of today’s fashion retailing, too many retailers are heavily focused on securing the sale and then the logistics of getting online purchases delivered, and potentially ignoring the issue of returns. But returns can cripple a business if they’re not dealt with swiftly and correctly – you just have to look at the numbers. A survey for Radio 4’s You and Yours programme last year found that two thirds of shoppers who had bought clothing online had sent at least one item back. What’s more, shoppers now expect returns to be part of their shopping experience. This is because the immediacy of online retailing has great appeal, but so does being able to return any unwanted item easily, free of cost and conveniently. But just as that initial click-to-purchase was easy, shoppers expect the returns process to be simple too. Dissatisfied customers who face issues with a returns process will cease being loyal and may spread the word that they’ve had a disappointing experience with a brand and, if this goes viral on social media, it could have a major impact on sales. So, instead of ignoring the issue, retailers need to tackle it head on. Keeping customers happy by ensuring returns are convenient should be the main goal, as retailers need to ensure that returns are as easy as the purchasing or delivery. Offering free postal returns is a great way of providing better convenience. Our recent research into cross-channel activity found that free returns were important to many shoppers, with 51 per cent of those surveyed saying that they will not order from a company that does not have a free returns policy. Returns are a good example of a transaction that looks like a short-term loss but could prove to be a long-term gain. If a new customer purchases five items from a retailer but sends four back, they could just be getting to know the brand. And, if they have a good returns experience, they’ll be more inclined to use that retailer again and recommend them to a friend. Such brand confidence will result in less shopping around and more time spent with a retailer the customer knows they can rely on – whether that’s for purchases and/or returns. —

WEB WATCH

WWW.ACCENTCLOTHING.COM Leading independent retailer Accent Clothing has unveiled a brand new website design. Launching prior to the Christmas shopping period, the site maximised festive shopping potential with clear navigation and a defined area for its 12 Days of Christmas gift offer. Offering more than clothing to shoppers of Leeds, the website also includes reviews, news and events from in and around the local area. —

NEWS

JANUARY 2ND DUBBED “TAKEBACK TUESDAY” Retailers are expected to receive returns valuing £2.5bn from unwanted Christmas presents, with January 2nd dubbed “takeback Tuesday”, as shoppers deal with returns as they head back to work following the holidays. Research by the Royal Mail reveals three in four consumers who purchased women’s clothing will return an item. Male shoppers, meanwhile, will return trousers/ jeans, followed by shirts and coats/ jackets. Consumers, more than ever, demand ease and efficiency when it comes to online order returns, with over 90 per cent of shoppers likely to shop with a retailer again if resealable packaging was provided. “January is the busiest time of year for returns,” says Nick Landon, managing director of Royal Mail. “Having an easy way to return online purchases is a crucial part of the online shopping experience. For retailers everywhere, ensuring their returns experience is in line with consumers’ expectations is incredibly important.” — CONSUMERS STAY CLEAR OF HIGH STREET ON BOXING DAY Footfall for Boxing Day sales within bricks and mortar stores fell 4.5 per cent year-on-year, according to figures from retail intelligence company Springboard. Despite luxury department stores such as Harrods and Selfridges experiencing record numbers of shoppers for their Boxing Day sales, many other high street retailers reported one of the most “challenging Boxing Days they have seen” since Springboard first published its retail data in 2012. “This undoubtedly reflects the extent of discounting that has already occurred – particularly over Black Friday – and also the growth in online trade this year,” says Diane Wehrle, insights director at Springboard. “In addition to this, Black Friday now rivals Boxing Day in terms of the volume of footfall generated and so its influence as a key trading day in the retail calendar has been diluted. “The extent of discounting, together with the fact that stores still account for around 80 per cent of total spend and that activity in bricks and mortar stores declined, suggests that sales will be lower this year on what was traditionally the key shopping day of the year.” —

www.fynch-hatton.com

Showing at Panorama, IndX, IMC and at venues nationwide. To make an appointment, Contact-: Michael Spriggs Agencies, 0116 2362304 - mike@spriggsmenswear.co.uk Ireland- P&R Agencies 07967580122 - andrew@pandragencies.com

MWB-ONLINE.CO JANUARY 2018 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 16

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry. —

ADVICE FROM INSTAGRAM TO SALE IRMA HUNKELER is head of operations at BlueGlass Many retailers make the mistake of treating their online presence and physical stores differently, when it’s actually far more sensible and profitable to view them holistically. But how do you go from Instagram to a sale? Whether you’re offering jackets, grooming products or shoes, let’s take a look at three ways in which you can drive customers to your stores by using your online channels.

ELLESSE OPENS LONDON FLAGSHIP IN SEVEN DIALS Iconic Italian sportswear label Ellesse has opened its debut London store at Seven Dials. Located at 39 Neal Street, the 1,000 sq ft store stocks the brand’s latest menswear and womenswear collections, as well as accessories. “2017 has been a fantastic year for Ellesse globally, and opening in Seven Dials is a perfect way to bring in 2018,” says Marc Greene, Ellesse brand director. “This is the first store outside the Asia Pacific and represents a true statement of intent from the brand – we aim to immerse all visitors in the fascinating history of Ellesse, while also showcasing our exclusive and latest collections.” Commenting on the opening, Sam Bain Mollison, head of retail at Shaftesbury, says: “We are delighted to add a UK debut store for another international brand to Seven Dials. Ellesse, along with a select group of other designer sports apparel brands, is seeing a real resurgence at the moment and the brand’s heritage is the perfect match for the area. They are a great addition to an urban fashion line-up that includes Carhartt, Nixon and Vans.” Seven Dials is home to 95 shops, including international flagships and concept stores, beauty and grooming salons, as well as over 90 cafés, restaurants, bars and pubs. The area comprises Monmouth Street, Earlham Street, Neal Street, Shorts Gardens, Neal’s Yard, Endell Street, Shelton Street, Mercer Street and the Seven Dials monument. — NEWS IN BRIEF HARRODS TO UNDERGO MAJOR REDEVELOPMENT Harrods is embarking on the most ambitious store development project in its 180-year history. The three-year project will see the store make investments of £200m, redesigning around the shopping requirements of its customers. This began with the recent opening of the first stage of the redevelopment of the Grade II* listed Food Halls, continuing with the opening of the expanded Fine Watch Room in spring 2018. Further investments will include the dedication of an entire floor to Menswear and Sports, an evolution of the Harrods Home department, and a large-scale expansion and investment in the Harrods Beauty Hall. —

PRIMARK TO OPEN IN WESTFIELD LONDON Fast fashion retailer Primark has signed a deal to open a 70,000 square foot store within the new £600m expansion of Westfield London. Primark is currently fitting out the new London store, which is set to open in the summer, ahead of the 10-year anniversary celebrations for Westfield London. The store will house women’s, men’s and children’s fashions, including footwear and accessories, as well as lingerie, beauty and homeware. The design and layout of the store will build on Primark’s latest contemporary retail concept. —

Consistent presence from screen to store Your business needs to look and feel the same in every form, from your Instagram account to the inside of your store. This sense of familiarity is important for the customer as it promotes your business as one that is trustworthy and reliable, which in turn makes the customer far more loyal to your brand. This consistency should extend not just to the logo and the colours associated with your business, but also to the style and tone of the advertising copy used both online and offline. Store locator A store locator platform is an ingenious piece of software which is sure to drive customers to your stores. Essentially a directory of your physical stores, this platform enables customers to either search for the location of your store or geolocate themselves to find the store nearest to them. Influencer marketing This one can be tricky to get right, but when it’s done correctly the rewards are plentiful. Influencer marketing involves working with someone who has a significant amount of clout on social media, whether they have a particularly popular Instagram account, a YouTube channel with a large number of followers, or a blog which receives a high amount of hits. After you’ve researched the kind of online personalities you think might be interested, matching their specific interests to your products, approach them and see if they would be interested in promoting your brand via their channels. A picture on Instagram or a video in which a vlogger shows off and talks about your product for even 30 seconds could do a lot to get the word out about your business.

MWB-ONLINE.CO JANUARY 2018 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 17

SHOPPED: POCKETS How was Christmas trading for you? Trade got there in the end. We’re about 10 per cent up on last year, but it was all pretty much down to the last 10 days before Christmas. We’re not on Sale in store now, we’re still trying to do it old school and leave it until midlate January, though we have selected some items to go on Sale online now. — What challenges have you faced this season? Well, I think what we can now call ‘Black November’ was a factor, because now it seems to start the week before ‘Black Friday’ and continue the week after into December. We don’t get involved in that. Then you’ve MARK TAYLOR, BUYER got Sales starting before Christmas to contend with. POCKETS, — SHREWSBURY, What brands have been performing well? NEWCASTLE UNDER LYME, HANLEY, Stone Island and Moncler have been particularly good for us, and CP WORCESTER AND Company has been decent as well. High-end technical sports NANTWICH outerwear, with high ticket prices, has been where it’s at, which is good for us. Those brands don’t tend to get discounted either. They keep their worth in the marketplace. We’ve also had a good Paul Smith season, which has performed especially well for gifts. — What are you looking forward to getting in for spring/summer 18? I’d have to say Stone Island and Moncler again. We’ve had a pre-spring Stone Island collection in, and have already sold through 70 per cent. On the new front, we’ve got A.P.C. coming in this season, and the new Y3 collection is looking very nice. Looking ahead to a/w 18, we’re taking on Acne Studios and Maison Margiela. —

IN FOCUS: UNION CLOTHING 35 HIGH BRIDGE, NEWCASTLE UPON TYNE, NE1 1EW

ESTABLISHED: 1987 BRANDS: BEN DAVIES, BRIXTON, CARHARTT, DICKIES, EASTPAK, EDWIN, FARAH, KINGS OF INDIGO, LEE, NUDIE, MERC, OBEY, PENFIELD, POLER STUFF, REDWING, RASCALS, THE QUIET LIFE

MEADOWHALL COMPLETES £60M REFURBISHMENT British Land, joint owner of Meadowhall, one of the UK’s largest shopping destinations, has completed its £60m refurbishment of the centre. This marks the end of a two-year programme, during which £40m was also invested in store upgrades by more than 70 brands, including existing and new additions to Meadowhall’s line-up. This combined investment of £100m has already made a positive impact on performance, with footfall on Black Friday up 8 per cent, making it the busiest on record. Highlights of the refurbishment include the creation of four districts, each with a distinctive character and offer, columns and bulkheads have been reduced or removed creating lighter, brighter malls, with new glazing, improved lighting and new customer seating added. New brands added to the portfolio include Joe Browns, Diesel, Jack Wills, Flannels and Urban Decay. — NEWS IN BRIEF

Union Clothing is an independent business started by brother-in-laws Geoff Brownless, who had a past in denim manufacturing, and Doug Ellison, who had a past in store management, back in September 1987. They set out to provide an expertise in denim that was otherwise lacking from Newcastle and the north-east in general at that time. Throughout the years they have worked with many different brands, always striving to take the business forward and introduce newness. The focus is always to provide people with brands they are passionate about, brands with heritage, and new brands they find innovative. The Union store has moved a handful of times around a small area of Newcastle city centre, and previously had two stores. But more recently they have concentrated on one main shop, opening up the basement to reveal an industrial looking second shop floor. Stripped back it shows the original walls, ceiling, floor and pipework from many decades ago. The shop is still a denim specialist, but with a lot of great workwear and streetwear added to the flavour from the likes Carhartt, Dickies, Ben Davies, Brixton, Obey and The Quiet Life. It also sells menswear from the likes of Farah and Merc, giving a broad appeal to style-hungry locals. —

HOLLAND COOPER OPENS STORE IN BICESTER VILLAGE As one of Britain’s fastest-growing luxury fashion brands, Holland Cooper has opened a store in the exclusive shopping destination of Bicester Village. The 2,000+ sq ft store, located in the renowned luxury retail destination, is the second bricks and mortar store for Holland Cooper, having officially opened the very first flagship store in Edinburgh at the end of last year. “Bicester Village is synonymous with British luxury, which is why I’m so delighted Holland Cooper has opened here, being a champion of Britishmade fashion,” says Jade Holland Cooper, founder. “It’s a really exciting time to be opening during the expansion of Bicester, something I never would have envisaged only one week after launching the Edinburgh store.” —

MWB-ONLINE.CO JANUARY 2018 | REPORT | 18

HOW FAST FASHION HAS CAPTIVATED THE MILLENNIAL MARKET Ian Tomlinson, CEO of cloud retail management system RetailStore, looks at the spending power of the 18 to 34-year-old market – or Millennials as they are now better referred to – and how this group now dominates the fast fashion market. —

MWB-ONLINE.CO JANUARY 2018 | REPORT | 19

“ Social media plays a huge role in our lives today, prior to it fashion purchases were based on reading magazines and figuring out what the next investment purchase was going to be.”

Millennials are one of the most powerful consumer groups in the retail market, this we all know. These 18 to 34-year-olds are opting for life experiences over savings or spending money on costly attire. Millennials started their shopping journey spending their pocket money on Primark quick-fixes and getting the latest look for £10 – and that was the whole outfit. While they were at university, they continued to look for high-impact, low-cost fashion and, as they stepped into adulthood, they and their younger siblings have been the driver to the internet shopping boom.

ONLINE LABELS DOMINATE THE FASHION MARKET The high-street fashion industry, once dominated by bricks and mortar labels such as River Island, Topshop, H&M and Zara, has seen a shift in consumer fashion purchases. 2017 became the year for online fashion retailers to captivate the Millennial market through cheap fashion, online social influence and consumer convenience, resulting in phenomenal growth and financial rewards. Fast fashion? You mean ‘even faster fashion’. There is a new generation in fashion labels leaving behind the high street giants. The ever-rising prices over the last few years has led to an opening in the market for fashion newcomers to enter. The quick fashion business strategies are some of the savviest around and have earned great rewards. The models are modern and more dynamic than traditional models used by high-street brands and instead focus on cheaper prices, quick stock turnarounds and new pieces hitting the sales almost instantaneously. These businesses have pushed fast fashion to step up a gear and seen labels such as Boohoo, Missguided and PrettyLittleThing revolutionise the fashion industry.

DYNAMIC STRATEGY Considered ‘fast fashion’, the digital fashion brands interpret the looks of TV celebrities on the red carpet over catwalk-focused seasonal wear. Unlike Zara, which can take a design from the catwalk to the sales floor in just 25 days, research by Goldman Sachs identified that the changes in celebrity trends on the red carpet can be quickly turned around and hit the online fashion scene in a matter of weeks, if not days, from ‘even faster fashion’ labels like Boohoo. The choice to differentiate themselves from the catwalk sees fast fashion companies focus less on ‘investment purchases’ and more on what’s a hot trend right now – specifically targeting the Millennial market who don’t have £40 to spend on a dress, but have £15-20 instead. The Millennial wallet has its limitations and the availability of cheaper clothes, with dresses costing £15 and T-shirts a mere £4, has powered the rapid expansion of online quick fashion retailers. Industry analysts state that Boohoo is ‘the most successful online fashion retailer to apply and deliver the model’, making it one of the biggest online clothing retailers. The astute strategy, known as “Test and Repeat”, involves making smaller quantities of a design – no more than 300 at a time

Ian Tomlinson is CEO of RetailStore. www.retailstore.co.uk

– and to then quickly increase production volumes of the ones that sell best.

SOCIAL MEDIA AND SOCIAL INFLUENCE Social media plays a huge role in our lives today, prior to it fashion purchases were based on reading magazines and figuring out what the next investment purchase was going to be. Today, social media feeds the social influence in the discovery of the latest trends, making it arguably the most powerful psychological trigger that leads to purchases in marketing. For most, high-end fashion is simply out of their price range. However, cheap fast fashion is ideal for the world of Instagram and Snapchat, where most fashion influencers post numerous times a day and wear outfits only once. So, for fast fashion labels whose shopfronts are Instagram and Facebook, the psychology created around not wearing an item too often by social influencers attracts the Millennial market. Additionally, instead of opting for 5ft 10inch models with a size 0 waist like most high-street fashion labels, they choose alternative fashion influencers like Lionel Richie’s 18-year-old daughter Sofia for Boohoo and Missguided’s 5ft 1in mixed-race model. The social influence trend has created a fashion movement among young people who can relate to the size or height of these influencers with the desire to mirror and look like them. The online fast fashion labels have managed to connect with a younger audience via the use of social media alone.

WILL THE SUCCESS BE SUSTAINABLE? Fast fashion has become a minority in the retail industry, reaping huge financial benefits and growth during a time when bricks and mortar brands are suffering closures and reining in store expansions to shift their focus online. Yet the benefits rely on social media’s short lived trend cycles, which see Millennials seeking out their moment of inspiration from social influencers to purchase an item. The question remains, however, will the leaders in ‘even faster fashion’ like Boohoo be able to sustain its growth and success? Bricks and mortar brands seek to entice consumers back in by creating a customer experience that communicates its brand image online and offline. Conversely, the fast fashion business strategy differentiates itself by basing stock levels on the best-selling items purchased online, minimising the financial risk of an item not selling well – this would simply not work outside the online-only fashion business model. But for now, until new technology trends appear and stores develop unique customer experiences that really draws the consumers away from the convenience of online shopping and online social influence, it seems the ‘even faster fashion’ trend won’t be slowing down just yet.

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INTERVIEW

JASON SCHOTT Jason Schott is the fourth generation of Schott family members to work for the New York family business. His great grandfather, Irving, created the first ever ‘Perfecto’ jacket, for which the brand is most famous, in 1928. To mark its 90th anniversary, Schott NYC is putting on an exhibition of past jacket models at the forthcoming Jacket Required, as Tom Bottomley discovers. — Have you always worked for the family business? I grew up sweeping floors and packing boxes in the factory. We have a rule in the family that everyone must leave and gain experience outside and bring back a unique skill. I worked as a certified public accountant after college, and joined the family business full-time about 20 years ago. Do you know the business inside out, from the factory floor upwards? Yes, my grandfather had a saying that we can’t expect anybody to do a job that we aren’t willing to do. So it’s important to my family to know every aspect of everyone’s jobs. How would you best describe the enduring appeal of Schott NYC’s outerwear? We focus on building the best quality products that we can, by using techniques that have been passed down for over 100 years. We know that there will always be demand for timeless things that will become heirlooms and be passed down. The company was actually founded in 1913 by my great grandfather Irving and his brother, Jack Schott. It’s a little known fact that Schott NYC was the first company to put a zipper on a jacket. What big anniversary is the brand celebrating in 2018? Do you have any special plans? My great grandfather invented the motorcycle jacket in 1928, so we are celebrating the 90th anniversary of the ‘Perfecto’ motorcycle jacket. We will be hosting an exhibition at the London trade show, Jacket Required. We will have the

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER SCHOTT NYC

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same double stand that we normally have at the show, however, we will also have a large space behind our stand which will showcase the Perfecto exhibition. It will be a celebration of the Perfecto jacket, showcasing over 50-plus jackets, which will feature special collaboration pieces from brands like Supreme, Jeremy Scott, RRL and Vetements, to name but a few. How much of the Schott product is still made in the original factory in New York? In the US, over 80 per cent of our product is made in our factory. In Europe, we work with our Schott NYC licensee, so the product is split between US and European styles. How important is it to still make your products in the USA, and to have that on your labelling? It is less about the label and more about being able to control every aspect of the production. My family is managing the production every day and we wouldn’t have the same product if we couldn’t be as involved in the manufacturing. What would you consider are the three most iconic Schott outerwear pieces that you still make today? The three most iconic pieces in our collection are the motorcycle jacket, the bomber jacket and the peacoat. We have made many versions of these three styles, all of which are based on function and utility. What are the company’s link to the US military, police, fire services and so on, and how did they come about originally? During WWII, all US manufacturers ended their civilian production to manufacture for the military. We still make many of our jackets to those military specifications. We haven’t made uniforms for the fire services but we did make them for local police forces. Do you have a favourite Schott jacket of your own? If so, what is it? I have too many to have one favourite. I’ve been wearing an unlined café racer from our Perfecto brand collection lately. Who are some of the most famous wearers of Schott jackets over the years? Schott NYC hit the big screen in 1953, when the Perfecto One Star jacket was featured in the cult movie The Wild Ones, starring Marlon Brando. Johnny, the leader of the Black Rebels

Motorcycle Club, is forever immortalised in his Pefecto One Star as the icon of the counter culture. The Perfecto was catapulted to the height of its popularity in 1955, when a love for speed ended the life of the quintessential ‘American Bad Boy’, James Dean. It is said that Dean could hardly be seen without his Perfecto. The black leather jacket became synonymous with ‘The Rebel’, and was banned from high schools across the country in the US. We are lucky that over the years some very talented people have worn our jackets. As well as style icons like Brando and Dean, the likes of The Ramones, Blondie, Bruce Springsteen, Lady Gaga, Jay-Z, Kanye West and Rihanna have all been keen wearers of Schott NYC’s Perfecto jackets. What percentage of your business these days is with the women’s offer and have you seen that side grow? We do offer a women’s collection, but in the UK we have found more of a demand for unisex styles. The UK customer likes to wear things with a boyfriend fit. For a/w 18, we have focused on introducing some new unisex styles into the collection. Is there a new UK wholesale focus going forward? We are always looking to grow the business globally. In the UK, we have launched with Selfridges and Matches for a/w 17, and look forward to opening similar accounts for a/w 18. Harvey Nichols and Mr Porter are other key accounts for us right now. Who is the real target market for the Schott brand right now? We have been making outerwear for over 100 years and we don’t focus specifically on one target market. We stay true to our history and heritage, and focus on making quality products with a modern update. We are very lucky because we have a wide, diverse customer base with age ranges from 16 to 50-plus. What do you see as the key styles which will work in the UK for a/w 18? Flight jackets are currently performing extremely well for the UK market and have been for some years. We have seen a shift from MA-1 bomber jackets into A2 pilot jackets and B3 sheepskins. The CWU jacket, with the Velcro Schott NYC chest badge, is also proving very popular again

with the whole 90s trend gaining momentum. And, as we are the original creators of the Perfecto biker jacket, we always get a lot of enquiries about this timeless classic. Will your offer at Jacket Required be wider and more prominent this time? Yes, it most certainly will. We will now be taking three different collections to the show. They are Schott NYC, which is our commercial unisex collection, Schott Limited Edition, which is our contemporary collection, and Schott NYC Perfecto Brand, our US heritage line. How would you best describe the Schott NYC mainline? This collection is designed and made by our European licensee, which has been working with the brand for over 35 years. This collection is our most commercial range. It offers competitive price points and also introduces trend items that are key for the UK market. It’s this collection that features some of our most iconic styles from the 90s, which people know and love. What’s the Schott Limited Edition collection all about? In 2016, Schott NYC launched the new premium collection called Schott Limited Edition. The concept behind the collection was ‘Watch your back!’ This was inspired by a hunting jacket, where the back of the jacket was painted red, so hunters could identify each other and avoid friendly fire. Schott Limited Edition uses premium fabrication, contrast colours and blends elements from our rich history. The collection has a much more contemporary feel, and it is more fashion oriented. Finally, what is special about the Schott NYC Perfecto Brand? When Irving Schott began making his elite line of leather jackets in the 1920s, he called the collection Perfecto after his favourite cut of cigar. This collection of jackets represented the most special and unique pieces in the line, which still holds true today. The current Perfecto brand collection draws its inspiration from our family’s archive, passed down over 100 years. Timeless classics are reinterpreted in modern fits, using modern materials. The result is a sharp, focused line of authentic Americana. The Perfecto brand collection is built for individuals who appreciate the history behind the garments, unique materials and vintage style trims. All styles are handmade in the USA at our New York factory.

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P R O D U C T

PENFIELD BEAR ALL Delving into its rich archives of the 80s and 90s, Penfield draws on the best of its past collections to create a unique capsule collection, The Bear Pack. The capsule’s namesake, Penfield’s iconic bear logo – a nod to the classic Penfield style and the brand’s history – features throughout the 20-piece collection of sportswear staples. Reviving the brand’s hero styles with modern, technical construction, the Bear Pack elevates Penfield classics, like the PacJac and Block Jacket, with softer, high-performance fabrics. The bold colour blocking in red, white and blue pays homage to 80s Americana. Partnering with a number of select retailers, The Bear Pack is sold exclusively at Bodega in Boston, Slam Jam in Milan, 18montrose in London and Penfield.com. It will be available to other stockists in the new season. —

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RADAR Spotlighting style WALKERS APPEAL LAUNCHES DETROIT COLLECTION Less than 12 months old, menswear label Walkers Appeal is designed and manufactured in Spain, mixing traditional and contemporary aesthetics to create products for the modern man. The latest collection blends premium fabrications with reinvented classic patterns. Highlights of the range include overshirts, produced in corduroy, and the Western jacket, which is set to be one of winter’s must-have pieces. —

ARCMINUTE ESTABLISHED: 2015 HISTORY: Established by Alexandra Kacovska Cipriani, the menswear label has undergone a new design direction set for the a/w 18 season. SIGNATURE STYLE: Menswear which draws influences from Ghana, married with London street style. With a strong sense of leadership, Arcminute founder Alexandra Kacovska Cipriani became aware at an early age that working to somebody else’s plan might not be for her. Drawn to fashion, in particular menswear, her journey brought her to launching her very own urban brand. Taking inspiration from Ghana, where she was raised, as well as the streets of London, the brand presents an eclectic and interesting collection for the new season. Named after a mathematical measurement, the range features urban streetwear and accessories from entry price T-shirts at £25 through to jackets at £300. “It’s important to us that the growth comes from our own ideas and we grow organically,” says Cipriani. “We have a diverse sense of what fashion is and take inspiration not only from geographical backgrounds but also music. Every day is a learning curve, but the key for me is to have fun, align relevant artists across all sectors and create a brand new community,” she adds. With four drops planned each year, Arcminute will be sold initially online via www.thearcminute.com, with aspirations to partner with larger online retailers and department stores. —

PACSAFE UNVEILS QUIKSILVER COLLABORATION Australian accessory label Pacsafe has launched a capsule collection with iconic surfwear brand Quiksilver. The Pacsafe x Quiksilver range offers two unique pieces – the 40L carry-on pack and the 25L backpack, both of which blend board rider specific function anti-theft technology, geared towards adding extra security when exploring off the beaten path. Each bag comes with Pacsafe’s patented anti-theft technology. This includes the Roobar locking system with interlocking zippers, RFIDsafe pockets, PopNLock Security clip and eXomesh Slashguard internal lining. There is also functional organisation in the way of heavy tarpaulin pockets for wax and fins, plus it also has a removable dry bag for when the bag gets wet! The striking ‘Heavy Water’ pattern has been taken from one of Quiksilver’s strongest seasonal patterns and blends authentic surf heritage with inspiring blue colours that carry a unique Hawaiian signature. —

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PRODUCT NEWS

C.P. COMPANY MARRIES MUSIC AND STYLE

INTRODUCING THE GRIFFIN X WOOLRICH COLLABORATION Woolrich, the oldest American outerwear brand, introduces its collaboration with Griffin, the design studio led by Jeff Griffin, for a/w 18. The Griffin x Woolrich collection revisits and interprets two classic styles, presented in limited edition designs. The Atlantic Parka – an updated version of the original Arctic Parka – and the Smock Anorak will be offered in a selection of 1,830 pieces, celebrating the year in which Woolrich was established. —

To celebrate their current Humanz World Tour, British band Gorillaz have collaborated with Italian clothing brand C.P. Company to design limited edition tour merchandise. Partnering with G Foot, the band’s own clothing line, C.P. Company garments have been created in homage to the band and a C.P. Company x G Foot Gorillaz tour jacket and flight hat are available to buy. C.P. Company designers Paul Harvey and Alessandro Pungetti designed the pieces in collaboration with Gorillaz co-founders Damon Albarn and Jamie Hewlett, and G Foot creative director Remi Kabaka. —

STYLE HIGHLIGHT

JOSEPH CHEANEY HEADS INTO WHOLESALE Footwear label Joseph Cheaney has announced its first ever exclusive wholesale collection for the UK market. Comprising seven styles in both black calf and burnished brandy calf, the range is offered on a forward order basis, with initial deliveries forecast to hit the shelves during March 2018. They are aimed to wholesale at £120 plus VAT, retailing at £295. Designed with full leather linings and Goodyear welted leather soles, the shoes offer a new venture for the rapidly growing British heritage brand. —

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PAIGE £37.50 020 3617 0912

MOCHA SALTS £45 +61 406 570 430

HAPPY SOCKS £3.98 07929 343061

GARCIA PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3432 6387

AFIELD 01273 746 746

HENRI LLOYD PRICE ON REQUEST 0161 975 2622

DOCK OF THE BAY Less a trend and more a summer season perennial, coastal influences come around once again, found in both contemporary menswear and the more mainstream labels. While a colour palette of red, white and blue dominates many collections, the key is to not take this trend too literally. — Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

SKOPES £48 0113 2402211

O’NEILL £14.60 01243 673666

TIMBERLAND £37.50 0175 349 7052

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MARSHALL PRICE ON REQUEST 01256 707070

GENTLEMEN’S HARDWARE £10 01225 789909

SIMON CARTER £12.50 020 8683 4475

THE EDIT Accessories and lifestyle products to complement your store’s offer. — FAIRFAX & FAVOR £63.60 01760 338199

REDECKER £4.04 01993 824144

LARSSON & JENNINGS PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3632 2300

TED BAKER RRP £40 01225 789909

URBAN EARS PRICE ON REQUEST 01256 707070

C O N TA C T - M I C H A E L S P R I G G S A G E N C I E S LT D 0116 2362304 MIKE@SPRIGGSMENSWEAR.CO.UK

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M.C. OVERALLS SHOUTS OUT WITH NEW SHOP There’s a new British workwear brand about on London’s Newburgh Street, and it’s aiming to do things a little differently, as Tom Bottomley discovers from charismatic M.C. Overalls CEO, James Scroggs. —

Opening a shop is certainly not the traditional route to market for an unestablished brand without having built a wholesale network first. But that’s exactly what M.C. Overalls has done – opening at 14a Newburgh Street at the tail end of 2017. Leading the brand into the fashion arena is CEO and face of the brand, James Scroggs, whose own background is not in fashion at all. “I actually come from a music industry background, and I worked at MTV for a long time as VP of marketing. We aim to do things a little differently with M.C. Overalls.” Opening a shop is certainly a signal of intent, and a sign to retailers that they mean business. “We really identify with an enterprise generation who are finding purpose and success in doing things their way, not waiting for permission or craving a fanfare,” explains Scroggs. “So, we’ve landed in Soho to do this our own way, using the space to collaborate with likeminded people. We really see the collaborative approach as a way of building a sustainable community, supporting emerging businesses that have the same approach and work ethic.” So far, collaborations have included Beavertown Brewery, Phonica, Soho Radio and Off Black Magazine. In store furniture installations have also been provided by designer Peter Marigold. M.C. Overalls was actually established in London’s East End in 1908 by three friends, brothers Morris and Myer Cooper, and Louis Maister. As self-taught tailors at just 15 years old, they began crafting hand-embroidered waistcoats. They moved the business forward by

opening two East London factories to make surplus uniforms for the British Army in WWII. They evolved into artisan clothing, offering denim jackets, trousers and a variety of specialist trade overalls that later became known as M.C. Overalls. The business was sold in the 1950s, to become the globally recognised Lee Cooper brand. Scroggs explains: “The M.C. Overalls name and trademark stayed in the family and, around Christmas 2015, they decided they wanted to give it a second go. I got involved in talks with Morris Cooper’s grandson and a manufacturer and investor based in Hong Kong, and we relaunched the brand in 2017.” The collection is simple and stays true to the original origins of the brand and its history, with overalls at the centre of the offer. There’s also great sweats, coach jackets, track pants and denim pieces, as well as rucksacks and caps. Scroggs looks quite the advert for the brand in his pastel pink overalls and big ‘Buffalo’ style hat. The aim is to grow the brand step by step, with own-retail as the platform. Says Scroggs: “We know you can’t just start winning wholesale accounts straight away – you have to earn your stripes. Doing our own thing shows we mean business and we’re here to stay.” Prior to the permanent shop opening at 14a Newburgh Street, the brand did a pop-up shop on Carnaby Street, and one on Dean Street in Soho before that. So the water has been tested, and the response thus far has been favourable. There’s certainly a growing fanbase, and the fact that boiler suits and overalls are bang on trend helps proceedings.

The shop’s general manager, Bryan York, says of the M.C. Overalls offer: “We think today’s workers need wardrobe staples that are simple, well made and a little fashion forward – at an accessible price point. Workwear with a bit of street and some tailored touches.” Scroggs also has a separate life as the chairman of the Campaign Against Living Miserably (CALM) charity, the award-winning men’s mental health charity which is dedicated to preventing male suicide. “In November 2016, we launched a campaign called ‘Torch Songs’, which was going out to the music industry asking artists what the songs are they go to help them get through dark times.” Scroggs’ links to the music industry means he continues to incubate new artists through his management company Hoop Music. “We then recorded a load of covers, and in November just gone we held a Torch Songs birthday party on Newburgh Street, where 22 prints of musicians and artists recently turned Newburgh Street into something of a gallery – with a print in each of the shop windows down there, including our shop.” Each of the portraits were shot by rock photographer, Andy Earle, famous for shooting the American series with Johnny Cash, just before he died. Some nine acts played in the street outside M.C. Overalls’ new store, including The Boxer Rebellion and the most celebrated signing to Universal in the UK recently, Isaac Gracie. It’s clear that, with Scroggs at the helm, M.C. Overalls is going be pretty good at getting heard and noticed. And the product certainly ain’t bad either.

www.royrobson.com

EST. 1922 BERLIN

AUTUMN / WINTER 2018 RECUR

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KING OF THE CREEPER BOUNCES BACK Legendary Northamptonshire footwear brand George Cox, founded in 1906 and largely credited as the inventor of the brothel creeper in 1949 – so loved by the ‘Teddy Boys’ and later rockabillies and punks – is in the midst of a relaunch to capture the hearts and feet of a new generation. Tom Bottomley finds out more from fourth generation Cox family member, and managing director, Adam Waterfield. —

George Cox is one of the great British footwear brands that has thankfully never gone away – still making at its factory in Wellingborough, Northamptonshire, where it was founded back in 1906. Famed for inventing the creeper in the 1950s, as well as a whole host of other great styles loved by rockers the world over that followed later, in more recent years, it’s been pretty dormant in the UK market. But that could be set to change. Niche it may be, but Comme des Garçons designer and owner, Rei Kawakubo, has long been a George Cox fan, hence why she collaborates with the brand and sells it in her Dover Street Market stores in London, New York, Tokyo and Singapore (with another opening in Los Angeles this year), jointly branded with Comme des Garçons Homme Plus. The tail end of 2017 saw an installation in the London Dover Street Market shop, which recreated an adolescent’s bedroom complete with 1970s British decor, posters and magazine extracts

portraying subcultures that have adopted the brand for generations. Shoes were presented in the under-bed storage, and the installation allowed customers to feel a sense of occasion while trying the shoes on. Eight different George Cox styles are currently stocked at Dover Street Market. Indeed, 2017 also saw the launch of a new George Cox website, with an e-commerce wing and a refreshed core selection of key styles, including the ‘D-ring Creeper’, ‘Gibson Creeper’, ‘Heatseal Gibson’, ‘Popboy Chukka’ and buckle fastening white EVA-soled ‘Wedge Monk’ shoes – famously worn by former The Clash frontman and late legend, Joe Strummer. With other brands now recreating very similar styles to George Cox classics, albeit nowhere near as well made, the time is right for the kings of the creeper to let it be known who’s the daddy of them all. George Cox managing director, Adam Waterfield, says they took the decision back in 2016 that it was about time the brand raised its profile and put itself firmly back on the map as a

category leader. “We’ve got quite a niche market, but we’re very strong in Japan and among the cognoscenti in London. Our shoes are also a staple every year with top-end designers for their runway shows. It gets somewhat frustrating that people get credit for something that we feel is rightfully ours. We’ve not been widely known for some time, so we thought we’d now have a proper stab at getting the brand out there.” Waterfield subsequently put together a team to work on the relaunch and went through a whole rebranding exercise – part of which was putting together a new collection of George Cox classics, which they are now carrying stock of. “It’s an offensive to reclaim the creeper,” he says. “I can’t say hand on heart that we were actually the very first to make the brothel creeper, but we were certainly among the first if not.” Interestingly, Waterfield says that what people see now as creepers, with the very thick crepe sole, is not how they were originally. “Back in the early days, they had a much thinner crepe sole, maybe half an inch or three-quarters of an

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inch thick, and they were sold to guys coming back from the war. They’d been in uniform throughout the period of WWII, and they were just beginning to try to establish their own identity.” It was the ‘Teds’ that really picked up on George Cox’s brothel creepers. They gave a bit of an edge to their whole Edwardian look. “It was about being a bit of dandy and a bit of a rebel,” explains Waterfield. The ‘Popboy Chukka’ boot came a bit later, and was apparently massive for the brand in Scandinavia in the late 1950s and 60s. “Every factory in Northampton was making a version of that shoe at the time,” says Waterfield. “Such as the old Hutton brand had the famous ‘Playboy’, and Eton had the ‘Clubman’. Sanders still do a very nice one as well. In the late 1970s and early 80s, we used to sell to a very popular shop called Robot on the King’s Road in London, and they ran the ‘Popboy’ as well as our more rockabilly styles. The Japanese visitors loved our shoes then, and they still love us now.” In fact, in Japan, George Cox is one of the premier brands. There have even been collaborations with the likes of Bathing Ape, Yohji Yamamoto and Human Made. “We’re just really now trying to now get a firmer base in our home market, by giving wholesale a real push,” says Waterfield. The George Cox brand has such strong roots with UK subculture. The late Malcolm McLaren, former manager of The Sex Pistols, originally purchased a pair of suede George Cox D-ring creepers from the pop-art boutique Mr. Freedom at the height of hippie-dom in 1970. They became part of his signature look, and a few years later he turned up unannounced at the George Cox factory and ordered six different styles to sell in his King’s Road punk emporium, Let it Rock, with Vivienne Westwood. Coincidently, the shop was on the same premises that Mr. Freedom had previously occupied. McLaren and Westwood then transformed Let It Rock into SEX, and then Seditionaries, making 430 King’s Road the seedbed for the incendiary punk movement. Throughout that period, George Cox was their main shoe supplier, and was the footwear of choice for Johnny Rotten, Sid Vicious, Joe Strumer, Paul Simonon and everyone else who wanted to look just like them. “There’s always been a strong link between our shoes and music culture,” offers Waterfield. Carrying a stock of key styles now means George Cox is perhaps better geared to build a stronger wholesale network, having previously only ever operated as a made-to-order business. “It’s difficult to carry stock when it’s quite a niche product,” admits Waterfield. “There’s a quite a big investment involved. English made shoes are never going to be cheap. But, because we’ve now got an ‘in stock’ range, the right retailers can now dip in to that and give our shoes a go. It’s certainly helped us open new accounts in South America and South Korea, and we’re now starting to get a bit more interest in England. Since the launch of the new website, we’re also finding a lot of

customers in the US. What’s clear is online is working in markets where we are underrepresented.” The majority of the George Cox product is retailing between £210 and £250, so it’s never going to be a mass-market offer. But an ongoing collaboration with Fred Perry over the past five years has made George Cox shoes a bit more accessible. “There are some made in England products, such as a monkey boot with a heatsealed sole, which sells in the higher end Fred Perry Laurel Wreath stores,” says Waterfield.

“But there is also some made in Portugal collaboration shoes, which retail for more like £120-£140. That gets much wider distribution in their own stores and elsewhere.” Working across three levels, with designer collaborations with the likes of Comme des Garçons, Human Made and Mastermind Japan at the top of tree, then the own brand made in England product, and then the made in Portugal line with Fred Perry, means the brand is well positioned to reclaim its former glory. All eyes on the return of the kings of the creeper.

JACKET REQUIRED Floor T1- Stand 132

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JACKET REQUIRED AS LONDON’S LEADING TRADESHOW FOR THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY, JACKET REQUIRED WILL PLAY HOST TO SOME OF THE BIGGEST NAMES IN CONTEMPORARY, STREET AND SPORTWEAR, AS WELL AS HERITAGE ICONS AND TAILORING MASTERS.

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Q&A WITH MANDEEP SINGH CO-FOUNDER, TROUVA

Ahead of its partnership with Jacket Required this month, MWB speaks to co-founder Mandeep Singh about the idea behind the online platform for independent boutiques and what drove the decision to partner with the UK’s biggest menswear trade show. — Victoria Jackson: When was Trouva formed? Mandeep Singh: Trouva was launched in September 2015, and enables customers to scour a huge array of over 80,000 distinctive, design-led products from the best bricks-and-mortar independent stores. My co-founders and I saw how technology was converging the worlds of online and offline retail and, while Amazon and some major retailers were adapting to this rapidly changing environment, independent shops – the lifeblood of bricks-and-mortar retail – did not have the scale and technology. So we set about building our own technology platform to take the world’s best offline retailers online. In just over two years, we’ve built a technology platform which empowers hand-picked offline independent stores to not just compete with, but beat the retail multiples and e-commerce giants, led by my co-founder and CTO Alex Loizou. Amid an accelerating industry shift to digital and omnichannel, the platform also offers real time ‘click and collect’, one-hour delivery (it has a record-breaking delivery time of just 22 minutes) and worldwide shipping. VJ: What was the idea behind the launch? MS: We wanted to merge the worlds of online and offline to really give bricks-and-mortar boutiques an opportunity to compete with

bigger businesses, like Amazon and eBay, by providing the tech expertise, delivery capabilities and scalability they need to reach a new customer base. In two short years since launch, the business has seen 1,509 per cent growth in revenue and has doubled profits for some of our top-performing boutiques, with many of them already having achieved over £100,000 of sales through the platform. VJ: Does the shopper have one basket and pay for everything through your website? MS: Yes, the shopper has one basket and we handle all logistics, from click and collect to same-day delivery and worldwide shipping. By doing this, we’re able charge a single, flat rate for shipping to the UK and internationally, no matter how many boutiques you’re buying from, as well as free shipping for larger orders. VJ: Were you working in ecommerce prior to launching Trouva? MS: I was previously a retail strategy consultant at OC&C, advising the likes of Arcadia Group, DFS and Asda Wal-Mart amongst others. It was here where I first saw the impact that online was having on offline retail. I then went on to become an investor at BC Partners, one of Europe’s largest private equity funds, which owned businesses such as Foxtons, Gruppo Coin/OVS, Intelsat and

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INDEPENDENT MINDS We take a look at three independent boutiques available on Trouva, all of which offer a great experience, both in store and online. — PetSmart/Chewy.com. I started my first ‘business’, doing web design, as a teenager from my bedroom, and my co-founder Alex has been coding for over a decade. VJ: How many retailers do you have signed up currently? MS: We have over 400 boutiques in over 119 towns and cities in the UK. We’re extremely selective in picking boutiques which customers will love, so cannot accept the majority of shops who want to join the platform – quality is far more important than quantity. VJ: What do you think has been the key to your success? MS: It is not so much about success, but solving a problem. When we founded Trouva, technological innovation was disrupting the high street at a fast pace. Our mission is to equip independent boutique owners with the latest technology to enable them to have a competitive edge in the digital world. We’ve been able to innovate by working with independent bricks-and mortar-stores, for example, doing deliveries in less than an hour, even in 2015, or offering realtime click & collect.

CASSIUS & COCO Cassius & Coco is a concept store based in the heart of Crouch End, with a second location in Chiswick. The store hand-picks emerging and renowned local and international designers, brands and artists, favouring those taking creative risks to manufacture one-of-a-kind objects. Opening its doors in 2015, the store has become a firm favourite with shoppers across the country.

VJ: Which is your most popular product category – fashion, home or something else perhaps? How does menswear perform overall? MS: We are a destination for homewares which is our most popular category, with women’s and men’s fashion accessories a close second. Sales of men’s accessories and menswear represent about 12 per cent of our overall sales, and we work with some amazing independents with great men’s ranges, such as Yards Store in Manchester, Our Daily Edit in Brighton, AIDA in Shoreditch and Maze in Bristol. VJ: You’re partnering with Jacket Required this season – what was the decision behind this? MS: Jacket Required offers boutiques the chance to uncover a diverse and premium range of international brands. The carefully curated selection of brands reflects Trouva’s own mission of bringing together the best independent stores, run by independent buyers and curators, in the world. Jacket Required was an obvious choice as we are aligned in our passion to support design-led independent shops. Members of the Trouva team will be available throughout the duration of the show to meet retailers. Find us in our very own Trouva Lounge – if you have a bricks-and-mortar shop and want to arrange a time to meet the team, simply email apply@trouva.com.

DESIGN MUSEUM SHOP Located at the iconic Design Museum on Kensington High Street, the Design Museum Shop showcases a carefully curated offering of homeware products. The shop reflects the values of the museum itself, with a focus on architecture, graphics, product and industrial design. Every purchase supports the Design Museum allowing it to expand on its roster of exhibitions and events.

VJ: What do you look for in an independent retailer when considering it for Trouva? MS: As mentioned, we only accept a minority of stores that apply to join our community, as we have to believe that they are truly amazing independents, with a very strong vision and identity and run by expert curators/buyers. Stores must have a bricks-and-mortar location, with regular opening hours and probably have a loyal local following. VJ: And finally, what plans do you have moving forward? Would you open Trouva on an international scale? MS: Certainly. We want Trouva to become the global destination for the best independent shops in the greatest cities in the world. Whether we’re talking about Berlin, Montmartre in Paris or Shoreditch in London, our mission is to unite the world’s greatest independents in one community and global platform.

MR MULLAN’S GENERAL STORE Mr Mullan’s General Store is located slightly out of the capital in Kingston Upon Thames, Surrey, offering a plethora of grooming products and accessories for the modern gentleman. The team source products from popular brands including Y-Studio, Armor Lux, and L.A Bruket, as well as its own Made in England brand Mr Mullans, comprising grooming products and accessories.

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ARCHIVE REVIVED AT HENRI LLOYD Delving into the archives, updating and refreshing is what Henri Lloyd is all about for a/w 18, with superior fabrics and detail key for the modern sailor and man about town. Tom Bottomley hears all about it from CEO Martin Strzelecki, as well as the exhibition planned at the forthcoming Jacket Required. —

Martin Strzelecki, along with his brother Paul, owns the Henri Lloyd brand their late father, Henri, founded in Manchester in 1963 with his then partner, Angus Lloyd. Martin carries the same passion for the brand and its products as his father had, and a/w 18 is an exciting time for new developments, as well as celebrating the past with an exhibiton at Jacket Required. He says: “Early in the product development process for a/w 18, while working from our archive, we had the idea to showcase the archive and new jackets together. We want to share the

unique stories of the jackets, such as the technical innovations of the ‘Ocean Racer Jacket’ that have become industry standard, with the non-corrosive zips and use of Velcro fastenings. Jacket Required is the perfect fit for this showcase, and we have worked closely with their team to arrange the exhibition.” The new collection leads on from the successful ‘Consort Project’, presented at Pitti Uomo for a/w 17, demonstrating a renewed focus on premium jackets being at the core of the brand. Throughout 2017, Strzelecki says they have

refocused the business, invested in new IT systems, developed new design processes and, most importantly, relooked at their core concept. Taking inspiration from original designs and keeping Henri Lloyd signature details, the jackets for a/w 18 are a contemporary update of fabrications, designs and colour palettes. Influenced by their origins and challenged by a new generation, Henri Lloyd’s a/w 18 collection is the first season to manifest this transformation – from the start of product development through to creating the marketing campaign.

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“ Our ‘Re-explored from our Archive’ exhibition will showcase 10 original archive jackets, and share each of their unique stories. This includes the Ocean Racer Jacket originally designed by my father for the inaugural Whitbread Round-the-World Race in 1973 to survive the treacherous Southern Ocean, widely regarded as the most inhospitable on earth.”

Strzelecki explains: “This is not a vintage collection. We will present contemporary designs staying true to the original, with built-in protective engineering for today’s lifestyle. Our ‘Reexplored from our Archive’ exhibition will showcase 10 original archive jackets and share each of their unique stories. This includes the ‘Ocean Racer Jacket’ originally designed by my father for the inaugural Whitbread Round-theWorld Race in 1973 to survive the treacherous Southern Ocean – widely regarded as the most inhospitable on earth.” Alongside that, they will present 15 new jackets re-explored from the archive, featuring 11 men’s and four women’s jackets. One such jacket re-explored for a/w 18 is the ‘Portland Jacket’, which was originally designed by Henri Strzelecki in the 1960s, with the coastal sailor in mind. It was the base engineering construction for the later ‘Ocean Racer Jacket’. Named after the important way-point for coastal traffic, Portland Bill in Dorset, the innovative design was ingeniously simple and was one of the first protective jackets in the world to have fully taped seams to ensure waterproofness. For the new season, the brand has created a men’s and women’s version, staying true to the original with

built-in protective engineering for today’s lifestyle. The ‘Consort Jacket’ was also designed by Henri Strzelecki in 1965, and initially was only available in navy with a red lining. The Consort was put to the ultimate test in 1967 when it was worn by Sir Francis Chichester for the first solo sailing voyage around the globe. He famously chose a green Consort, which surprised many as green was often considered a poor choice for sailors as it doesn’t stand out in the sea. When asked about his choice, Sir Francis replied: “Who would be there to see me?” The Consort later became a fashion staple throughout Europe in the 1980s when it was adopted as a uniform by the Milanese Paninari. For a/w 18, Henri Lloyd has worked with Italian designers to create 10 versions of the Consort, following the success of the ‘Consort Project’ for a/w 17. “In addition to these archive jackets from the 1960s, and the 1973 Ocean Racer Jacket, which has been a staple for round-the-world racers for over 40 years, we have re-explored our archive from the 80s and 90s too,” explains Strzelecki. In the 80s Italian designer Olmes Carretti joined Henri Lloyd and created the ‘Consort Round-theWorld Jacket’, adding a corduroy trim, contrast colours and embroidery while retaining the

original signature ‘casein’ buttons to the front. Many of these details remain Henri Lloyd signature details to this day. The ‘York’ and the ‘Manor’ are another two originals from the 80s that have been re-explored. In the 90s, Henri Lloyd worked with designer Massimo Goggi, who introduced the ‘Forth’ and the ‘Corby’ jackets, which they have also now looked at again, as well as UK favourites the ‘Jib’ and ‘Ebb’ jackets. “We have refocused our product development process for a/w 18, giving jackets the natural lead on our product hierarchy and the rest of the collection cascades from them,” says Strzelecki. “This delivers a consistent thread of brand handwriting throughout the collection – all following the same inspiration, colour stories and branding.” Henri Lloyd’s UK wholesale business increased over 30 per cent for s/s 18. The launch of the Henri Lloyd Sport collection for 2018 brings to land the brand’s experience in technical innovation. Strzelecki believes this has huge potential for the UK, especially following the partnership announcement with leading cycling team, Team Sky. With the new a/w 18 collection already eagerly anticipated, the fresh season might prove to be a ride more retailers want to be on.

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HANCOCK

WRANGLER

MEPHISTO ORIGINALS

BARBOUR

LEE JEANS

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ON THE RADAR Spanning contemporary menswear through to sartorial tailoring, streetwear, footwear and more, the a/w 18 edition of Jacket Required is set to host a plethora of brands to whet your buying appetite for the new season. We highlight eight must sees. — LANGERCHEN Established in 2009 by Philipp Langer and Miranda Chen, LangerChen has been producing sustainable clothing in Shanghai ever since. With the introduction of its eco manufacturing, the brand is pioneering fair production and employment practices in China. Langer and Chen’s intention is to make a difference by creating ‘green’ garments, using unique organic fabrics specially developed using the brand’s own techniques. BARBOUR Heritage brand Barbour will present its Made for Japan collection at Jacket Required this month. With traditional garments in authentic construction, fit and detail, the collection celebrates the very best of British design. At the heart of the range is the waxed cotton Slim Fit Bedale, available in classic colours of navy and sage, alongside a select premium polo, knitwear and shirting range with minimalist detailing.

LOREAK

HANCOCK British label Hancock continues to draw inspiration for its a/w 18 offering, from Thomas Hancock, the English inventor who founded the British rubber industry. Each garment is cut then sewn by the Hancock team, before being passed to one of the brand’s experienced coat makers. Interior seams and pockets are glued and taped by hand, before being rolled flat using a hardened steel hand roller. In 2015, the label introduced Hancock Travelling Articles, which incorporates its trademark V-Quilt pattern in lightweight nylons, wools and silks – a collection which has grown season upon season. HARTFORD Hartford was launched in Paris in 1979 and has maintained an “insider” status since then. Mixing vintage European styles with a more relaxed American aesthetic, the label has gained a cult following for its easy-to-wear pieces, which are perfect for dressing down stylishly. Think Parisian cool with an informal edge, Hartford offers easy-to-wear, stylish basics.

LANGERCHEN

LEE JEANS Founded in 1889, in Kansas, USA, Lee is renowned for its workwear heritage. Having created the first denim overalls in 1911, the brands also invented zipper-fly jeans, as well as the first ever slim denim jacket. Today, these signature styles are delivered with a modern twist, using premium fabrics, continued innovation and new technologies. For a/w 18, buyers can expect 90s heritage details, denim finishes, blanket lining, cord and retro stripes. LOREAK Formerly known as Loreak Mendian, contemporary fashion label Loreak will showcase its new direction at Jacket Required this season. Founded in 1995, the brand has evolved in many aspects over the years, but remained true to its honest, simple approach to design. Aside from the mainline collection, each season welcomes to the addition of Prints – a sub-line which combines influences from contemporary art, photography, illustration, travel and local traditions. MEPHISTO ORIGINALS Even after 50 years in business, handmade cult footwear brand Mephisto Originals offers shoes with real personality. When the company founder, Martin Michaeli, created this new type of shoes in 1965, it represented an innovation in the world of footwear. The quick-tying hiking and casual shoes with their unique soft-air technology opened a whole new way of walking. The brand has developed this cult shoe for the new season with a touch of nostalgia, offering fresh designs, subdued and casual.

HARTFORD

WRANGLER Wrangler confirms its heritage by presenting a vibrant a/w 18 collection, with a strong denim range, pastel and black stories, multiscreen prints and retro logos all key to the new season. The revamped Wrangler gradient graphic makes headway, and provokes the brands standards by replacing the leather patch on the back pocket. The iconic rainbow steals the limelight one more time, meanwhile, flagging the leading shades of the collection.

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WALKERS APPEAL

A/W 18 UNCOVERED YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE A/W 18 SEASON, FROM THE TRENDS TO THE COLLECTION NEWS TO THE VIEWS ON THE SHOP FLOOR. >>>

MODERN EXPLORER REDPOINT Comprising corduroy, shearling, wax and a characteristically autumnal colour palette, one of the most dominating trends for a/w 18 is that of Modern Explorer. British label Afield works this theme perfectly, with a focus on layering â&#x20AC;&#x201C; think vintage tailoring, donkey jackets and overcoats. Insisting on the highest quality, premium yards and woven fabrics are used; flannels, herringbones, cashmeres, wools, corduroy and twills complete the collection. A Spanish label to hone in on the seasonal theme is Walkers Appeal, which makes its debut this season with a series of western jackets, utilising both shearling and corduroy. Menswear brand Colours & Sons, meanwhile, embraces the casual side of dressing, updating its latest offer with a lighter colour palette and eye-catching prints. The new season will see the brand expand its range to include more sweatshirts, jackets and accessories than ever before. Sister label Fynch Hatton follows suit by extending its best-selling classics, offering new knitted jackets and gilets in both tweed and Donegal effects. Menswear label Farah, meanwhile, utilises its signature fabric, the hopsack, across chino and five-pocket trousers,

COLOURS & SONS

BRUHL AFIELD

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WALKERS APPEAL while the corduroy jacket gives the collection a contemporary feel. In terms of colour, German label Roy Robson takes inspiration from the ‘authentic earth’, with a mix of rich, rusty tones, chestnut and camel. Over at trouser specialist Bruhl, innovation is key, with the launch of Future Pants, which are flat and denim, without cotton – but have a similar look and handle. Mirroring this need for innovation is outerwear brand Nagano, with new wax finishes on canvas jackets, effective Thermore® padding and high-quality polyamide fibres for premium comfort. Finally, fellow outerwear specialist Redpoint focuses on the outdoor active man with a robust, casual and modern collection. FARAH

NAGANO

FYNCH HATTON

ROY ROBSON

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NECK ON THE LINE

OLYMP

DIGEL MOVE

ROY ROBSON

Regardless of whether we call it a turtleneck, polo neck or roll neck, highnecked knitwear is continuing its menswear moment. Moving away from the 70s influence of previous seasons, a/w 18 feels more athletic and contemporary. A popular style within the Digel Move collection is the fast-dyed merino turtleneck sweater with its herringbone details on shoulders and hem. Olymp’s knitwear offer, meanwhile, is inspired by sports and streetwear – specifically the early age of Alpine ski tourism with clear cut shapes and lines. A different world from the Alps perhaps, British label Afield takes its inspiration from Manchester this season, using a cloudy and overcast colour palette as a subtle insignia associated with the history and heritage of the city. Music, meanwhile, is at the heart of Farah’s new seasonal offering, interpreting the eclectic styling of the bands under the management of Creation Records – think Primal Scream, The Jesus and later Oasis. Finally, Roy Robson’s knitwear collection features a host of premium fabrications, including 100 per cent merino lambswool, cotton sateen and merino/cotton blend.

FARAH

AFIELD

PALLADIUM DARE THE ELEMENTS NOW SHOWING FW18

PALLADIUMBOOTS.COM

SALES: MARK@PALLADIUMBOOTS.COM

OLYMP

THE NEW BASIC MAC Black, it seems, is no longer the wardrobe basic, as deeper shades of blue from ink to navy are showcased through many collections. Shirt specialist Olymp moves into the new season with a comprehensive offering of both business and casual designs. New yarn developments such as melanges create lustre effects, while motif prints are positioned or printed on structures. Eterna, meanwhile, embraces dark opulence, where floral prints come into their own against metallic shimmers through a skilful combination of colour and materials. Jacques Britt follows suit with a multicoloured floral print in avocado, blue and purple taking a stand as an a/w 18 highlight. Moving away from shirting, trouser specialists MAC and MMX both add interest to navy pants â&#x20AC;&#x201C; MAC offering a sportive, shortened silhouette with draw cord and cuffs at the hem, while MMX utilises special wool effects, microstructures, 3D effects and new velvet on denim. Mirroring this focus

ATELIER TORINO

MMX

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DIGEL ETERNA

on interesting fabrication is Atelier Terino, with exclusive paisley multicoloured linings found inside its navy tailored offer. Tailoring, meanwhile, remains a strong category at Roy Robson, with the introduction of the Travel collection – a range of half-lined sports jackets with safety pockets in a travel-friendly fabric. To round off the New Basic trend, Digel Move offers a clean, dark and masculine colour palette of navy, blue, light blue and olive blending into black, grey and anthracite, while sister label Digel – which offers a more traditional collection than its contemporary counterpart – puts the focus on silhouettes for a/w 18, with coats, suits, jackets and trousers all available in slim fit.

JACQUES BRITT

ROY ROBSON

DIGEL MOVE

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THE INSIDE SCOOP The Cords & Co launches collaboration with Alpha Industries The Cords & Co has announced its latest design collaboration with cult military clothing brand, Alpha Industries. Based on Alpha’s iconic MA-1 Fighter Pilot jacket and N-3B Parka, originally created for the U.S Air Force, the designs have been reworked using The Cords’ signature premium corduroy fabrication. “At The Cords, we’re collaborating with brands that stand for something authentic and real,” says Omar Varts, brand director of The Cords & Co. “The exciting thing for us is exploring a classic silhouette – for example, Alpha Industries’ MA-1 bomber jacket which has been produced for decades. Flipping that into a corduroy fabrication means that we can contribute meaningfully to a partnership, and we are very much looking forward to introducing this collection to corduroy fans out there,” he adds. The two unisex styles, one bomber and one parka, come in colours shaped by The Cords & Co’s signature earthy palette – nutmeg, black and military green – and feature the familiar Alpha design elements including the iconic “Remove Before Flight” detailing. The bomber jacket is reversible, with Alpha’s Indian orange high-visibility lining.

S.Oliver launches apparel into the UK market German label s.Oliver will launch its apparel collection into the UK market for a/w 18, under the direction of leading fashion distributor Love Brands. Complementing the distributor’s current roster of 16 fashion brands, Love Brands will showcase both s.Oliver and s.Oliver BLACK LABEL, covering both womenswear and menswear. Established in 1969, the brand has grown from a small boutique into one of Europe’s largest fashion companies, with an annual turnover of €1.67bn in 2016. As a vertical wholesaler, rather than the classic model most UK independents are familiar with, s.Oliver presents a unique opportunity for independent retailers, operating on the successful model of 12 drops a year. The monthly deliveries enable retailers to respond quickly to seasonal changes, while enjoying the strong sell-through associated with transitional styles and regular injections of fresh stock. “I think the retailer in the UK is keen to discover ways to work in a more efficient, and therefore profitable, way,” says Michael Shalders, co-founder of Love Brands. “The support and processes, besides the quality and priceperformance ratio, are exceptional.”

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Garcia Jeans relaunches into UK market Garcia Jeans is set to relaunch its menswear offer into the UK market for a/w 18 under the guidance of Double H Agency. Following the success of its womenswear collection in over 40 stockists nationwide, the aim of the agency is to reach a similar level with its menswear offer. With more than 25 Garcia flagship stores and franchises across Europe, the brand also has 150 shop-in-shops concepts across Germany, Austria, Finland, Denmark, Belgium, Switzerland and Holland. In regards to the a/w 18 collection, designs are interchangeable, comfortable and affordable. Along with two main collections a year, buyers can expect a NOS collection of five-pocket jeans in a variety of washes and fits, pullovers, T-shirts and sweats.

DUTCH INVESTOR BUYS GERMAN TROUSER SPECIALIST GARDEUR

Nubikk launches into UK market Dutch footwear brand Nubikk is set to launch into the UK market with their s/s 18 collection, which has taken inspiration from the revival of the 90s. Celebrating its fifth anniversary, the footwear brand, which caters for both men and women, is designed in Holland and produced in Portugal. The menswear collection features premium materials including leathers, suedes and patents, all mounted on full rubber and lightweight soles. Other key styles include lightweight sneakers with black and all-white uppers featuring gold detailing. Chelsea boots are also a key must-have, available in a range of brown tones. Nubikk is currently stocked internationally in stores such as Farfetch, Anthropologie, as well as Jules B, Woodhouse and Tessuti for the new season.

Dutch investor Duijndam Group has acquired German brand Gardeur, securing the future of the trouser specialist, which filed for insolvency in October last year. The family-run group will take over the helm at the Gardeur Group, with the aim of stabilising supply in the short term, and repositioning and expanding Gardeur as the leading German trouser brand on national and international markets in the medium term. Commenting on this development, Steef Duijndam, founder and head of the Duijndam Group, says: “I am happy that the acquisition of Gardeur gives me the opportunity to further build and develop one of Germany’s most popular and renowned textile brands departing from a difficult situation. Over the past few weeks, I have convinced myself of the concept, processes and especially the commitment of the employees and managers surrounding CEO Gerhard Kränzle, and I am convinced that we will be able to jointly lead the brand to a new position of strength.” Established in 1982 by Steef Duijndam in Rotterdam, the Duijndam Group has been an international player in the retail, sports and textiles sectors for over 30 years. After selling his multinational equestrian sportswear company, Steef Duijndam developed such brands as HV Polo, HV Society, Imperial Riding and Easy Rider.

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NEW YEAR, FRESH OUTLOOK Reflecting on the past year, learning from mistakes and successes, we ask four independent retailers what their aspirations and plans are for 2018. — JONNY GEORGE BUYER, ELEMENTS, NORWICH What are you most looking forward to in 2018? I’m looking to change things a little in store and develop certain areas of our brand list, starting with s/s 18. I think we have to keep changing to compete. I’m looking forward to see how this moves forward and how the customer reacts to it over the next year. Do you think you’ve bought well for spring? I’m happy with what is coming in. Spring/summer is a tough season balancing two extremes – the cold and rain in February to April, then the warmer weather from May to September. Over the last few years I’ve reduced the forward order, so it’s aimed towards the first four months of the season, with the aim of getting fresh stock in later in the season through short orders.

GILES HENDERSON OWNER, SIX MENSWEAR, BURY ST EDMUNDS What are you most looking forward to in 2018? It would be nice to have a bit more stability politically with the all Brexit fallout. It would be great to have a better understanding of where we’re going forward, because that has just made everybody so upset and I don’t think I speak just for myself when I say that trade has been affected by it. General public fear for the unknown is not good for business, so hopefully there will be more clarity. However, I’ve been in this smaller shop for two and a half years now and, although turnover has been down, profit has been up – so I’m happy about that. But it could always be better. Do you think you’ve bought well for spring? Yes, I think we have actually. Last spring/summer we seemed to be doing much better with tailoring from the likes of Paul Smith. People seem to look at our store and think it’s a good place to get a decent off-the-peg suit, so we’re doing more on that side, including with our own Six label. We’re doing more blazers and separates as well, because guys are wanting to put different things together and mix up jackets, trousers and waistcoats for a more individual look.

What are you most looking forward to getting in the shop for s/s 18? Both Fila ‘Blackline’ and ‘Whiteline’ are great performers for us. The progression of Fila Blackline in particular has come on well over the last two seasons, with its 90s oversized graphics and cuts. We’ve seen a lot of interest from our younger customers. The s/s 18 collection looked very strong, so I’m looking forward to seeing the reaction. Kappa Kontroll is another one that I’m interested to see how it performs. I’m looking towards developing the sports/fashion tip, and that fits the profile. What’s performed well for you for a/w 17 that you will definitely be seeking to find more of in your a/w 18 buy? Farah has been brilliant for us this season. Great products and styling, and a good price point. Gibson London is always easy to buy, and I love the autumn/winter collections in particular. Many of the sports heritage brands, including Ellesse and Sergio Tacchini, have worked well. Accessories do very well for us in the autumn/winter season, from socks by Royalties Paris to luggage by Herschel Supply & Co. I’ll be attending Jacket Required as it’s always good to go there. I’ll also be going to Seek in Berlin to see some other brands that may not be represented in the UK, but are still relevant for the store. I may go to Moda as well, as there are always good accessories brands showing there.

What are you most looking forward to getting in the shop for s/s 18? I’ve found some better suppliers and we’ve built a collection of our own separates, so I’m really looking forward to that coming in. Brand-wise I’ve not really got much in the way of new ones coming in for this spring/summer. We have got a much smaller store than previously, so there are less brands. What’s performed well for a/w 17 that you will be seeking to find more of in your a/w 18 buy? Since we opened this store, Gant has been a new brand for us, and that’s been performing really well. Paul Smith is consistently good for us, and Norse Projects has been doing great. R.M. Williams is one I’ll be looking at getting more in, because that’s done really well this winter across the board, with the clothing, not just the boots. Their moleskin trousers have really hit the right note with my customers.

>>>

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DAVID JOHNSON OWNER, JOHN DOUGLAS, MACCLESFIELD What are you most looking forward to in 2018? First of all, catching up with all the reps and agents, who don’t get enough praise for the work and time they devote to the clothing industry. Secondly the next series of Peaky Blinders, from which I have taken great style inspiration with my suit and coat buying.

ROB ADAMS MENSWEAR BUYER AND MANAGER, THE HAMBLEDON, WINCHESTER What are you most looking forward to in 2018? The launch of our brand new website. We are about to go transactional with our menswear and womenswear – at last! I’m also looking forward to the World Cup finals and buying more records. Obviously, the impeachment of Trump would be an added bonus. Do you think you’ve bought well for spring? That’s a million-dollar question – there are so many outside factors that determine this, especially the weather. The website will also play a big part as it will be our first season selling clothing online. In terms of in store, I made a conscious decision to thin out our brand list out for a/w 17. This was partly due to space issues in the basement, as stock sells better when it can breathe. What are you most looking forward to getting in the shop for s/s 18? I’m really excited to be working with Adsum for s/s 18. Their interpretation of the classic American sportswear aesthetic really impressed me when I saw it in Paris. I will certainly be wearing a lot of it myself. And, closer to home, 6876 will be making its debut in the basement. What’s performed well for you for a/w 17 that you will be seeking to find more of in your a/w 18 buy? Anything sportswear led has been really strong for us, and it looks like corduroy is going to be big news again, so that’s going to feature for sure. Also, a certain shirtmaker from Porto by the name of Portuguese Flannel has been rather popular. I can’t say too much at this stage, but there are a few new exiting things in the pipeline for a/w 18. I’m really focused on the next generation of customer that’s coming through our door, and I’m definitely now buying with them in mind. I’ll be looking out for the things that I don’t know about yet. I brought in a couple of things this season that I literally found by accident, and they have been good. I’m also looking for some new knitwear. I’ll be in Paris and New York at the shows, and running around all over London in February. I’m looking forward to seeing everybody I’ve got booked in to be honest. I love my job, especially the autumn/ winter buying season.

Do you think you bought well for spring? My buy for the spring/summer season is always very simple. I top up on my core stock, and brighten things up for high summer with sharper shirt designs, while introducing some interesting suits and jackets for those special events. I have not bought any new brands in for s/s 18. My existing brands are all performing well, and some still getting stronger. I would find it hard to fit any more brands in at the moment, but I am always looking at what’s coming through. What other plans do you have for early this year? I will show my face at Jacket Required, but I’ve not booked to go to any shows out of the UK this time. We have committed to do some bridal shows in the spring/summer to promote our own suit retail, which has grown significantly, while the hire side has dropped off. There’s definitely a trend back to selling suits rather than hiring. Young guys want to dress sharp for occasions, and the price of suits has come down, while hire costs have increased. Affordable off-the-peg tailoring is really working well for us. We’re almost going back to our roots. Tailoring is not really something you can buy on the internet. You need to see it, feel it, try it on and gauge the fit. We’re becoming more specialised in this area again – rolling the clock back. What’s performed well for a/w 17 that you will be seeking to find more of in your a/w 18 buy? The tweeds and three-piece suits from Gibson London really hit the mark. Waistcoats have been very strong. Herby Frogg’s tweed jackets have also done well. Coats from Ted Baker, Herby Frogg and Remus have all performed, as have shirts from Ted Baker, Giordano and Barbour – particularly the textured check ‘weekend’ shirts. Reefer coats across the board have been popular, especially the one from Pretty Green. I will pretty much be buying at the same level as 2017, giving me options to pick up any clearance lines that may become available.

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NEW BEACH RETAIL LTD. Founded in 2010, New Beach Retail Ltd.’s brand offering has increased significantly from its showrooms in Manchester and London. The agency and distribution company has built a strong nucleus of different brands, with an emphasis on all things ethical, sustainable and heritage. Great service, communication, sales and marketing are all key factors in its growth and recognition as a premium player in the apparel business, working with retailers like Harrods and Oi Polloi. MWB takes a look at its very strong brand line-up for a/w 18. —

TRETORN

TRETORN Providing great kit for outdoor adventures since 1891, Tretorn is a sustainable innovation-driven brand with a passion for the Scandinavian outdoors. All of their products are 100% waterproof, windproof and PVC-free. They have created three initiatives that demonstrate their belief that sustainability is the future engine for growth. First up is the ‘PU-Parka’, a product made of recycled PET bottles, demonstrating that reusing only minimises waste. Then comes the ‘Rain Jacket from the Sea’, which uses the synthetic material from discarded fishing nets to produce premium products, reducing the harmful impact on aquatic animals. Thirdly there’s the

‘Bio-Plant Jacket’, which is perhaps the most pleasantly surprising of all. Tretorn has created a jacket made entirely from plants. The product can be composted when disposal is required. The a/w 18 collection will appeal to key accounts, mid to high-end menswear and womenswear retailers, and premium independents. It automatically appeals to those who feel strongly about ethical and sustainable products. Wholesale prices for the jackets go from £30-£150, while their rubber boots range from £20-£50.

ARKK COPENHAGEN ARKK Copenhagen’s unisex sneaker designs are inspired by minimalistic Scandinavian architecture.

The use of technical materials and clean shapes form a hybrid between sport and fashion footwear. For a/w 18, the brand is introducing a new neverout-of-stock line, with new styles and one brand new outsole, and there’s an exclusive collaboration with a new material partner. The season focuses on both up-and-coming and derelict Danish architecture. Tones of rust and iron are just two of the colours introduced to the range, and architecture from Danish landmarks such as The Blue Planet Aquarium provide the ideas behind the shaping of the shoe, specifically the sole. Only three years old, the brand is impressively in 36 countries across the world and has quickly made its mark within the footwear industry. The product can be seen in the likes of premium independent

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PEAK PERFORMANCE

CHEVIGNON

boutiques and high-end retailers such as Matches, Mainline and size? For a/w 18, wholesale prices sit between £37 and £61.

CHEVIGNON Specialising in quality heritage-inspired pieces including some great leather and bomber jackets, tees and sweats, and celebrating its 37th year as a brand in 2018, there’s a new focus on the UK market for Chevignon – remaining true to its 80s and 90s heyday, but with contemporary updates. Back in the day it was king of the logo, and the current trend for bigging up branding is perfect timing for the French company, also referred to as Charles Chevignon, to step back into the limelight. It was back in 1981 when the brand launched its first aged-look ‘Aviator’ jacket, with the introduction of its famous Tog’s Unlimited down jacket coming three years later. These products are entrenched in the brand’s DNA, and the a/w 18 collection remains true to this heritage. At the top tier, the high-end leather jackets range from £150-£300 wholesale, with the remainder of the jackets going from £63-£150. Tees, sweats and accessories wholesale between £10 and £45.

COLORFUL STANDARD

PEAK PERFORMANCE

Danish brand Colorful Standard takes pride in producing ethical products manufactured within the best working environment. Specialising in producing pre-washed 100% organic cotton products, it’s simple but very effective. New to the UK market, there are great tees – both short and long-sleeved – sweats and hoodies. The a/w 18 collection consists of six styles in 19 colours. The collection wholesales between £8 and £25 and retails between £25 and£70, offering a very healthy 3x mark-up. Additionally, 5% of the proceeds from each of the minimalist products go to a charity close to the brand’s heart. For all retailers, there is a never-out-of-stock programme and an easy-to-use B2B online portal.

Peak Performance was born over 30 years ago, when three talented skiers questioned why nobody was making clothes they wanted to wear both on and off the slopes. They therefore created a brand combining superior quality and functionality with simple, understated design. From slopes to streets, bikes to bar, and from work to work-out, Peak Performance has it covered. Key pieces in the a/w 18 ‘Urban’ collection consist of a series of down jackets and ‘Helium’ puffa jackets, ensuring a contemporary feel built for purpose. For these reasons, Peak Performance targets the UK’s premium retailers. The collection consists of ‘Urban’, ‘Active’ and ‘Sport Casual’, with wholesale prices on jackets from £80-£350, and athleisure pieces from £20£40.

CLOSCA With design and innovation at the heart of the brand, Closca provides a stylish take on safety products. Closca’s revolutionary ‘Fuga Helmet’ comes in black and white, and folds smoothly to fit into your everyday backpack, reducing its volume by more than 50%. Coloured visors enable the more fashion-conscious to customise their daily style. It’s a revolution in city cycling, derived from the University of Valencia. The classic ‘Fuga Helmet’ has a wholesale price of £55, with a retail price of £110.

WeSC Established in Stockholm in 1999, WeSC is a genderless streetwear brand which provides the perfect balance between style and functionality. WeSC has developed strong relationships with music and sport-related influencers, and infamous past collaborations include Adidas and The Andy Warhol Foundation. The brand’s relaunch for a/w 18 began with a pop-up store in East London’s Redchurch Street in November 2017. The a/w 18 collection puts quality and heavily influenced graphic design features at the forefront, while remaining true to WeSC’s skateboarding roots.

NIGEL CABOURN X PEAK PERFORMANCE In early 2017, Peak Performance launched their first collaboration. They decided only a legend would do. Nigel Cabourn is a UK designer who has built a name for himself re-imagining utilitarian workwear. The success of Cabourn’s previous collections have seen him urbanise iconic military pieces, and for a/w 18 he’s giving the new collection a very contemporary feel. There’s some top level outerwear as you would expect and, amplifying Nigel’s craft and reinvention, is Peak Performance designer Sofia Gromark Norinder. The jackets have wholesale prices between £150 and £450, supplemented with sweatshirts and knits at £80 wholesale.

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FARAH JEANS UPS THE GAME Farah Jeans is coming to Moda on February 18-20. The a/w 18 collection will only be its fourth but, as the collection has grown and gained a real identity, the aim is to really start to support it now, as Tom Bottomley discovers from Farah brand director, Mark McCann. —

It takes a while for even some of the biggest fashion players to build a brand or add additional lines, as the case may be with Farah Jeans. But now hitting season four, and with more of an established look and feel, there’s a new air of confidence and commitment in the air at the Farah HQ. Farah brand director, Mark McCann, says: “If you think about where we are as a brand right now, within our menswear we’ve got casual, tailoring and sport, so we feel we have a broad offering across our business. The Farah branded menswear with the white label is what we consider our ‘young fashion’, but we’ve also got a core business that we’ve had for a long time, which comes under our Farah Classic label. Farah Jeans, with a blue label, now adds to our offer, and takes our Farah’s ‘young fashion’ customer of 10 years ago, when we first launched it, on the journey with the brand.” McCann says that the guy who was buying the young fashion Farah offer in his 20s is now in his 30s, so Farah Jeans is speaking to that slightly older customer, and is more of a heritage lifestyle brand. “It’s a continuation of the same journey. Farah Jeans bridges the gap between Farah and the more mature Farah Classic line, which is still a very important core business to us.” A/w 18 is only the fourth season of the Farah Jeans line, so it’s only really just gaining some momentum. “You’re never the finished article in the first two or three seasons, because you’re just feeling your way with it and getting it right,” says McCann. “There are lessons to be learnt early on as you develop the collection and get the handwriting defined. We feel we’re really hitting that point now for a/w 18, so we’re looking forward to a positive reaction at Moda.” In many ways, the Farah Jeans line harks back to the brand’s roots. Starting as a family business with a factory in Texas, Mansour Farah the owner began making shirts under the name ‘Farah’ in the 1920. By the 1930s, the company was growing and had expanded to make overalls, denim and other general workwear. The Farah Jeans offer is obviously not just jeans, but a whole lifestyle collection built around that. As much as there certainly is five-pocket denim in there, as well as chinos and cords, there are also chambray and denim shirts, and a full line of jackets, knitwear and everything else you’d expect. Hooded jackets and peacoats with great linings have been strong sellers across the brand, with versions in the Farah Jeans collection. “But we’ve also got trend-led concept pieces – especially with outerwear and knitwear,” says McCann. “And the ‘legs’ offer is important to us, of course, because we are very much a ‘legs heritage’ business.” After a quiet initial launch, McCann believes the time is right to start to shout about it. For that reason too, they have just taken on new sales team to support the growth. “We’re really giving it a major push for a/w18,” he comments. The first season it went into stores was s/s 17, so it has actually so far only had two seasons worth of in-store sales. But early signs have been very encouraging, hence the new-found focus. “It’s very much in its infancy, and it’s only really now we’re getting behind it with marketing and point of sale,” says McCann.

The Farah Classic collection will be brought to Moda as well, sitting next to the Farah Jeans stand. “We’re also bringing some Farah tailoring to Moda for the first time,” explains McCann. “Within our tailoring we have two fits. The white label is a skinny fit, and the blue label is a slim fit.” It seems they’ll be plenty of newness for buyers to cast an eye over at Moda this time, and Farah will no doubt be number one on the ‘must see’ list for many.

M o da M e n sw e a r , n e C B i r M i n g h a M , 1 8-2 0 F e B r ua ry, sta n d n o: M 1 8 e n q u i r es: d o M i n i C.o M a l l ey@ p e ry.C o M

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FIRST LOOK AT MODA GENT MWB takes a look ahead to some of the new brands to watch at this season’s Moda Gent and Moda Footwear, which takes place on 18-20 February at Birmingham’s NEC. —

LUHTA

THE EVERMAN

With a heritage stretching back over 100 years, sportswear label Luhta is one of Finland’s most significant exports. The brand has increased its focus on fashion and leisurewear over the last few decades, blending its signature outdoor performance properties with styling and aesthetics that appeal to the mainstream fashion consumer. Luhta will exhibit an extensive outdoor collection at this season’s Moda, ranging from city jackets to technical ski apparel. —

The Everman is a brand new launch this season, inspired by an active outdoor lifestyle that requires protection from every element. The brand will debut to the trade at Moda Gent, revealing a wide range of outerwear with a focus on casual jackets defined by effortless styling and an extra eye on quality, fit and detailing. The Everman arrives from Germany but harbours a global appeal with its on-trend and performance-led outerwear for outdoor lifestyles. —

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JACK CARTER LONDON New to the industry as well as being new to Moda Gent, Jack Carter London adds a premium edge to casual tailoring with its range of premium men’s shirts. The brand currently specialises in long-sleeved shirts in premium fabrics, but plans to expand the collection next year to include polos and short-sleeved styles to progress the brand into spring/summer. —

BUCKTROUT TAILORING Bucktrout Tailoring draws upon its extensive Yorkshire heritage to create men’s styles that respect the past. Defined by the sharp approach to tailoring that is distinguishing the leading menswear labels of the moment, Bucktrout arrives from its Leeds historic tailoring district with its new and directional Heritage collection for a/w 18. Three years on from its inception as a standalone men’s fashion brand, Bucktrout makes a casually understated arrival at Moda Gent with a contemporary sense of style and an extensive story to tell. — q

REGATTA FOOTWEAR Already renowned for its comprehensive offer for the great outdoors, Regatta focuses specifically on its footwear collection this season with its arrival at Moda Footwear. Of particular interest to menswear buyers is Regatta’s range of lifestyle shoes, which includes versatile, comfortable and stylish footwear designed for everyday life from the peak to the pub. Regatta is just one of Moda Footwear’s new arrivals this season, making for one of Moda’s most comprehensive offers to date of top-to-toe clothing for menswear buyers. — p

GANT Fusing original American lifestyle fashion with European flair, Gant is a global leader in apparel. This season sees the brand make its Moda Footwear debut with a range of shoes which complement both its own core menswear offer and wider trends for autumn / winter 2018. Gant already has a global presence in over 70 markets worldwide and will focus on the development of its UK territory with its arrival at the show. —

For a full brand list and to register, visit www.moda-uk.co.uk

RETURN TO YOUR ROOTS Sportswear continues its love affair with heritage labels this season, with many names making their return to the menswear scene once again. We profile what’s in store this time around. —

Photographer: Richard Boyle Makeup artist: Lauren Rippin www.laurensally.co.uk • Stylist: Victoria Jackson Model: Harry Start www.bossmodelmanagement.co.uk

Jacket – Luke Roper, £34, 01869 366 580 T-shirt – Duke, £4.00, 0115 977 0009

Jacket – The Cords & Co, £91, 07720 806409 Shirt – Tymoor, £22, 07843628643 Jogging Bottoms – Fila, price on request, 01923 288 542 Jewellery – Stylist’s own

Jacket – Helly Hansen, £69.75, 0115 979 5997 Zip-up Jacket – Ellesse, £60, 01905 427 969 Jewellery – Stylist’s own

Tracksuit – Sergio Tacchini, £44, 01923 288 542 Parka – S4, £71, 020 3432 6387 Jewellery – Stylist’s own

Zip-up top – Henri Lloyd, £45, 0161 975 2622 Jumper – Bench, price on request, felix.tiller@bench.co.uk Tracksuit bottoms – Russell Athletics, price on request, 01923 288 542

Tracksuit top – King Apparel, £28, 020 8221 1611 Tracksuit bottoms – King Apparel, £22, 020 8221 1611 T-shirt – King Apparel, £14, 020 8221 1611 Trainers – Ylati, £105, +39 334 507 0934

Tracksuit top – Ellesse, £60, 01905 427 969 Jumper – Zoo York, £14, zymarketing@zooyork.com

Hat – Alpha Industries, £14, 01869 366580 T-shirt – Night Addict, RRP £20, 020 7756 1000 Jacket – Duke, £10, 0115 977 0009 Cargo pants – Duke, £10.50, 0115 977 0009 Trainers – Ylati, £105, +39 334 507 0934

MWB-ONLINE.CO JANUARY 2018 | PEOPLE | 76

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK KICKSLOVE ARCH 2, DEPTFORD HIGH STREET, LONDON SE8 4NS

SIMON SAYS One of the downsides of owning a classic Ferrari is that I seem to spend as much time with the car behind me on the RAC trailer as I do behind the wheel. This happened a couple of weeks ago. Jezebel, as I laughingly call her, had been delivered from her second home in Kent, namely Foskers the Ferrari specialists. ‘Oh yes,’ they assured me, ‘we’ve fixed the terrible misfiring problem. It was a broken tab washer on the timing drive nut’. And indeed they had. I drove the 140 miles from my home in south London up to my cottage with a wide smile on my face, attracting envious glances the whole journey. On reflection, they may have been pitying looks, but let’s not stray there. The following morning, I turned the key and a reluctant V8 spluttered, banged and lurched down the road with exactly the same problem as before. It’s not a wise idea to drive a car like that on half a tank of petrol, sounding like a bizarre and expensive fireworks display and so, with a depressing sense of déjà vu, I rang the RAC. They speedily sent out a man with a trailer and we were off back to London. It’s a fair journey at the best of times, but in an overheated, cigarette ash filled cab, in rush hour, it’s easy to get a glimpse of eternity. Especially as Eddie’s pick up was limited to 55mph. To while away the time, Eddie opened the conversation with: “So what about this Brexit business then…”, and I knew I was in for a very long drive indeed. He was a Brexiteer and laid his cards out. They included some very familiar arguments such as Brussels telling us what to do (“Give an example, Eddie,” I said, but none came) through to too many immigrants (“Would that include the nice Polish girl who just made your coffee at the motorway services? No? Well, Eddie, I’m afraid it would.”). And, by the Blackwall Tunnel, he had undergone something of a conversion and said he’d vote to stay if he could. The subject of change has been much on my mind this season, and especially as we look ahead to 2018. Five years ago, who could have predicted that the two weeks around Black Friday would be as important as Christmas itself? I would never have predicted that I’d have as many stores in India as in the UK. It’s simplistic to say, but none the less vital to understand, that change is faster and more important than ever. The winners will be those who positively embrace this. I for one can’t wait. I’m positive and excited about the opportunities for this year. — Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores

Despite Kickslove being London’s first female only sneaker store, this uber cool retail space is deserving of a place within MWB’s Little Black Book. Founded by Lisa Barlow Weber, the store stocks brands such as Converse, Adidas, Reebok, Puma, Karhu, Fila, Saucony, Good News, Le Coq Sportif, Stance and Dr Martens. Currently attracting a wide customer base, consisting of females between 18-35, students, young professionals and, of course, the sneakerheads, the design of Kickslove is a comfortable, friendly retail space. Expect sofas to relax in, a sneaker library to read up on sneaker culture and a floor designed by world famous graffiti artist INSA. Having celebrated its one-year anniversary in 2016, the store was also awarded as the winner of the PRS for Music Makeover competition thanks to Weber’s vision to merge music with sneakers and fashion. “Throughout history, sneakers and music go hand-in-hand as forms of art,” says Weber. “Deptford is a creative place, so I wanted to keep true to this in ensuring going into the future I can offer the consumer not only a place to shop for cool kicks, but an event space for young talent.” — PLAN B

CONNOR POOLE, International Brand Manager, Luke

My first big dream was to become an actor. — It was a passion in and out of school, as I used to really enjoy performing. After A-level exams, I began the search for a suitable acting course at university or a performing arts college. But, during study leave, I began to help out at the family business, Luke. I was asked if I could fill in for the sales agent who looked after Alpha Industries at the time for the a/w 12 selling season. After a successful season, I never did make it to the Liverpool Institute for Performing Arts (LIPA) or The Royal Central School of Speech and Drama (CSSD) in London. The showroom is now my stage and customers are the audience. —

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CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL NIGEL GREENE, HEAD OF CREATIVE AT BBUK LTD (FILA, SERGIO TACCHINI, RUSSELL ATHLETIC AND HI TECH) I like to interchange my garments to give them a different edge for different occasions, and I have an ASOS coat which is great in different ways. As an overcoat mixed perfectly with a Prada undercoat or merely over a jumper, I love this coat because it goes perfectly with most winter outfits and scarves, and I always roll the sleeves up for the perfect London look. I have always strived for the ultimate pair of trainers that give me everything I want in a pair of footwear. My Alexander McQueen trainers do the job really well, and work for both summer and winter. These are the ultimate trainers, because they are classic enough to give a shoe edge, with the comfort of a trainer. The stiff leather jacket from H&M in Hong Kong is another of my wardrobe staples, and it works great with a Breton striped Tee, black trousers and my white Luke trainers. I also wear it with slick black shoes and jeans, and a nice Sandro shirt for the perfect St Laurent copycat look. It’s very adaptable. A Sergio Tacchini piece from the new a/w 18 collection is one of my new favourites, and I know will be a huge streetwear staple among all the cool kids. I wear it with baggy jeans, trainers and a beanie hat. I love to mix streetwear with more classical designs and styles to really push the boundaries and fire my own creativity. My CK Jeans suede and leather jumper was a gift from an artist I do styling for, and it works great with every outfit from jeans to navy trousers – for an all over catwalk take. I would not say it’s the most directional, but it means a lot to me and it makes me happy to wear it. The ‘Dad’ cords from Urban Outfitters are definitely a new staple for this season. I wear mine rolled up with branded Fila socks and cool trainers. Mixed with lots of layers for winter, they add a bit of texture to any outfit. —

TOP TWEETS Mike Scully @scullymike “Four score and, like, seven years ago...” – Abraham Trump Kash! @KashRenai London culture is knowing where to stand on the platform, exactly where the door opens. It’s also walking the correct amount of steps down the platform so you’re near the way out when you get off the train. Giles Paley-Phillips @eliistender10 I keep reading about people giving up stuff for 2018, how about taking up a few things too, maybe smile more and tell the people that you love how much they mean to you. Chat more regularly to your elderly neighbour, do some volunteer work, do something for charity. Sainsbury’s Verified @sainsburys No need to spend £70 at ASOS, work with us and get the original burgundy fleece for free. Mitch Ford @Mitchlad71 Doing dry January (Monday - Friday). That’s ok right? Boys By Girls @BoysByGirls It’s difficult to narrow down the MAN AW18 show to just a few sentences. Three very different collections expressed inclusivity and celebrated individualism. To word it simply, MAN did not attempt to colour within the lines, as per usual. #LFWM The Chic Geek @TheChicGeekcouk So, we’ve reached that worrying stage where brands are reappointing old creative directors. Have we run out?!

SOCIETY THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

p MODEL DAISY LOWE WITH BRITISH DESIGNER OLIVER SPENCER, BACKSTAGE AT HIS A/W 18 CATWALK SHOWCASE IN LONDON EARLIER THIS MONTH.

p JORDAN STEPHENS, FORMERLY OF MUSIC GROUP RIZZLE KICKS, AT THE BEN SHERMAN X HENRY HOLLAND SHOW FOR LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S.

p PRINCE HARRY AT THE INVICTUS GAMES, IN WHICH SUPERDRY SPORT HAS BEEN SELECTED TO DESIGN AND PROVIDE FREE BESPOKE TECHNICAL SPORTS KIT AND TEAM CLOTHING FOR UK TEAM COMPETITORS AND SUPPORTERS THIS YEAR.

CRAFTING SCOTTISH QUALITY SINCE 1891

STOCK SERVICE E: customerservice@glenmuir.com

T: +44(0)1555 662241

MWB-ONLINE.CO JANUARY 2018 | 79

THE BOTTOMLEY LINE MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

TRIBUTE FOR LORD JOHN CARNABY STREET LEGEND WARREN GOLD He dressed the Rolling Stones, Beatles, Small Faces and Kinks in their pomp, and was a main player when Carnaby Street become the epicentre of all things cool in London’s Swinging 60s. The talk of the town, the lord of the Mods, we’re talking about style icon and menswear retail entrepreneur Warren Gold, who sadly passed away in 2015. To mark his lasting influence, Westminster City Council, along with Carnaby Street landlords Shaftesbury, unveiled a plaque in his honour at 43 Carnaby Street towards the end of November, where Gold and his brother, David, really set down a marker for fashion revolution and retail extravagance with their Lord John boutique. In 1967 they commissioned decorators Binder, Edwards & Vaughan to paint the exterior of Lord John’s branch, on the corner of Carnaby Street and Ganton Street, with a psychedelic mural. It made it a truly iconic building of the era, and was also a major PR stunt, bringing thousands of people to Carnaby Street. Backed by regular press advertising campaigns, Lord John grew to eight boutiques by 1970. Constantly creating new trends, they pioneered ‘far out’ men’s fashion with brightly coloured hipsters, loud shirts, corduroy and denim jackets. The 60s youth, tired of wearing clothes like their dads or granddads wore, wanted something new, daring, colourful and different, and Lord John was the place to get the latest look, as often seen on their new musical heroes on ‘Ready Steady Go!’ Don Arden, manager of the Small Faces, paid the group a wage of £20 a week each, along with accounts in clothes shops in Carnaby Street, in particular, Lord John. Gold once recalled that the Small Faces’ style, and giving away their clothes, was part of their success. Their main office was also on Carnaby Street, at number nine. The band used to go in to Lord John every day to buy replacement clothes, because over-night they’d given away their shirts and trousers to their fans. Gold said Don Arden wasn’t happy, because he was presenting him with a new bill every day, but it sure was “lovely business”.

p LORD JOHN CARNABY STREET STORE t FORMER MANCHESTER UNITED CENTRE BACK AND TV PUNDIT, RIO FERDINAND

Lauren Gold, daughter of the late Warren Gold, attended the plaque unveiling, as did former Small Faces, Faces and the Who drummer, Kenney Jones – in what looked like a jacket from back in the day. The plaque creates a lasting legacy for one of the most iconic menswear shops of all time.

BARBOUR SETS UP NEW COLLABORATION WITH ENGINEERED GARMENTS Barbour is collaborating with New York brand Engineered Garments for autumn/winter 18 for the first time, with a capsule collection of waxed cotton jackets. It follows swiftly in the footsteps of the heritage brand’s collaboration with White Mountaineering, and will once again no doubt raise Barbour’s brand profile, as well as Engineered Garments’, and spark plenty of press and social media interest. Founded in 1999 by Japanese designer Daiki Suzuki, Engineered Garments takes its name from a pattern maker’s comment that their clothes are more engineered than designed. The Barbour x Engineered Garments collection has a simple aesthetic, with a high level of sophisticated attention to detail. There’s an engineered take on design with rear opening parkas, capes and looser silhouette classic Bedales and blouson shapes. Daiki Suzuki says: “I personally love Barbour and hold in my collection a Bedale, Beaufort, International and Cowen Commando

jacket. One of the main elements to Engineered Garments is its classic military styling, and it was something I wanted to go with. It was a challenge to think about how to go about working with such an iconic brand, and one that I hold dearly.”

RIO FERDINAND LAUNCHES FIVE COLLECTION WITH SPORTS DIRECT Former Manchester United centre back and TV pundit, Rio Ferdinand, has teamed up to launch a clothing line with Sports Direct, called FIVE, the shirt number he wore during his playing days. Ferdinand comments: “The collaboration and the partnership with Sports Direct is so important. They have an absolute finger on the pulse of the current sports, football to street market, and that’s where I think this brand will sit.” Not a bad move given his background and very large social media following. The range includes hoodies, Tees, sweat pants and snapbacks in a variety of ‘understated designs’. Sports Direct’s head of influencer marketing, Barney Jones, says: “This project will form an important part of our elevation strategy, which aims to bring enhanced levels of excellence to our new generation of stores.” The discount sports shop certainly appears to be upping its game of late.

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LAST ORDERS WITH... MARK DE LANGE After spotting a niche in the market for affordable but high-quality prescription eyewear, Mark de Lange set about creating his own label, Ace & Tate. Victoria Jackson discovers more about the Dutch brand, including why he chose London as the base for his latest pop-up concept store. — DOB: 16.09.1981 Place of birth: Laren, Holland Lives now: Amsterdam, Holland

What was your career path prior to launching Ace & Tate? Before I founded Ace & Tate, I worked for several investment companies. I studied Communication and Marketing at the University of Amsterdam and I come from an entrepreneurial family, so I always dreamt about starting my own company and it felt like a natural step. How did you form the brand? Why glasses? Well, it started out after a trip to New York where I bought a pricey pair of frames and had to pay a couple of hundred euros in addition to get prescription lenses. That made me curious, so I started to do some research on the international eyewear market. It became pretty clear that the eyewear industry was not transparent and there was indeed a spot in the market for a brand that offers both first-class service and high-quality products for a fair price. After more intense research and development, we were able to provide this by cutting out the unnecessary links in the value chain, and this then became Ace & Tate. Where does the name Ace & Tate come from? The company is named after cellulose acetate, a traditional material that is strong, lightweight and lasting, from which a majority of our frames are made.

Where do you draw your influence and inspiration from? This is going to sound terrible, but I guess life; people, music, film, visual art – it’s not one particular thing. Gun to my head, I’d say travel is a sure-fire way to be inspired.

friends in the city, and are planning some exciting projects with locals. So when the retail space came available in the vibrant and dynamic Seven Dials neighbourhood, we knew it was the perfect way to enter offline into the UK market. The peep store is situated a short distance from Covent Garden and Soho on Earlham Street, surrounded by an array of independent stores that we feel are complementary to Ace & Tate – we already feel right at home. We’re excited to share the creative space with others too. We kicked off with exhibiting the Ace & Tate Creative Fund project with London-based photographer Hayley Louisa Brown and have just launched a portrait-focused project with LAW magazine, which aims to celebrate the precious imperfections, everyday eccentricities and unique nature of identity. It will be exhibiting for a duration of one month, so be sure to head down there!

Congratulations on the opening of your London store. Why did you pick this location? Firstly, thank you. The UK has always been a market on our radar and London has continuously been a city of inspiration for us. We have lots of

What are your retail development plans moving forward? Do you have a target of standalone stores you’d like to open? We just opened our 20th store and by the end of the year, we will be standing with 22 spaces in 7

How involved are you now within the design and production process? I’m not involved on a day-to-day basis, but our head of creative reports directly to me – I oversee and curate. Would you say you have a favourite style or collection? The Hudson and the Neil styles are definitely my Ace & Tate staples.

countries across Europe and we’re not thinking of slowing down anytime soon. In the upcoming year, we will open more stores across Europe and a permanent store in London is also planned to open in spring time – so keep your eyes peeled. You mention the Ace & Tate Creative Fund – what is this exactly? The Ace & Tate Creative Fund was established with the mission to give back to the creative community by providing funding and expertise to creatives in order to bring their brilliant ideas to life and break new ground. We invite original, focused proposals for tangible projects which turn obsessions into art. The fund supports artists working anywhere, within any medium and is a one-off grant with continued support and guidance, using different platforms to promote the project or artist. So far we have launched two projects with the fund, the most recent one being the project with London-based photographer Hayley Louisa Brown. You can find out more about it on www.aceandtate.com/creative-fund and, for those who are interested in applying, you can send your application to creativefund@ aceandtate.com

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