MWB MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER ISSUE 206

ISSUE 206 | SEPTEMBER 2013 | £6.95 | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

WALKING ON THE STYLISH SIDE MWB’S SEASONAL FOOTWEAR-FOCUS SPECIAL — GOING SWIMMINGLY THE RISE OF LONDON LABEL ORLEBAR BROWN

SEPTEMBER 2013 | CONTENTS | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 03

R E T A I L 10

Online Insider Advice, news and issues online

12

Retail Insider The latest in-store news

16

The Hub taps into Far East promise MWB’s Nick Cook investigates Hong Kong trade show The Hub

G E N T 20

Product news

22

In-season stock

24

Foot patrol

Rounding up the key stories this month Layer cake News and developments from the mainstream footwear brands

26

Heart and soul

32

Moda s/s 14: the trends

MWB’s pick of the key footwear trends for spring/summer 2014 The key products, themes and trends from this season’s Moda Gent

D E N I M 36

&

S T R E E T

Product news What’s happening in denim and street

38

In-season stock

40

Street style

42

Le coq crows

44

Select talking

46

Urban jungle

48

London’s finest

50

Gallery

Animal instinct Denim and street footwear brands take to the stage Profiling footwear label Le Coq Sportif MWB gets the lowdown from some of the key exhibitors at Moda Select Highlighting the surf, sports and streetwear brands at Flip Picks from London’s key show Jacket Required The labels making waves in Copenhagen

R E G U L A R S 5 6 14

Comment News Interview

55 56 59 62

Society Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Adam Brown

La Touchè

Front cover

O’Neill 020 7089 9465 —

september 2013 | mwb-online.co.uk | 05

EDITOR

COMMENT

Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — DEPUT y

EDITOR

tom bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — CONTRIBUTORS isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com laura turner laura@ras-publishing.com christina williams christina@ras-publishing.com — SUB

EDITOR

Amanda batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — DESIGNERS michael podger michael@ras-publishing.com James lindley james@ras-publishing.com clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com richard boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — SALES

MANAGER

sharon le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — SUB SCRIPTIONS lydia bennett lydia.bennett@ite-exhibitions.com — HEAD

OF

MENSWEAR

Jamie Harden jamie@moda-uk.co.uk — PRODUCTION

DIRECTOR

Gill brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — COMMERCIAL

DIRECTOR

nick cook nick@ras-publishing.com — MARKETING

The UK market continues to be difficult for international brands to penetrate and home-grown labels to find firm ground to stand on. Many are therefore looking in other directions – more specifically in the Far East.

—

DIRECTOR

stephanie parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — MANAGING

DIRECTOR

colette tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 11 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2013 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.

Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

Last month welcomed the second edition of Hong Kong trade show The Hub, with British brands such as John Smedley, Henri Lloyd, Penrose and Sunspel, to name a few, making the trip overseas to test the waters in the rapidly emerging Asian market, including Korea, mainland China and Taiwan.

With the popularity of British heritage labels continuing to gain speed in the Fast East, there hasn’t been a better time for brands to make the somewhat complex move into this market. However, the support of the UK Fashion & Textile association (UKFT), which added The Hub to its list of international shows for British companies that can qualify for government funding to exhibit, has been fundamental in many brands being able to exhibit at the show.

MWB was in Hong Kong to visit the trade event and gauge the response of exhibitors, which was positive, with many feeling more confident about expanding into the market, counting a number of leads to follow once they return to the UK. Turn to p16 to read the full report on The Hub, the brains behind the show and its plans for next season.

One brand capitalising on these developing markets is London label Orlebar Brown. The brand grew from a small start-up label, which saw founder Adam Brown queuing in his local post office to deliver orders, into a full lifestyle collection, receiving an £8m investment from private equity firm Piper earlier this year. Read Brown’s story in our main interview on p14.

Meanwhile, if you’re looking to update your store’s footwear offer, turn to p24, where we highlight the latest trends, innovations and developments from both the gents’ footwear sector and the contemporary denim and street labels.

On a final note, if you haven’t already, make sure to register for MWB’s weekly newsletter on mwb-online.co.uk.

Victoria Jackson Editor

september 2013 | news | mwb-online.co.uk | 06

N E W S

PEPE JEANS DR IVES ASIAN EXPANSION

bill Grimsey

N EW R EPORT CA LLS FOR R ET HIN K OF HIGH STREET National retail and leisure chains should invest 0.25 per cent of one year’s UK sales from 2014 into a local economic development fund to help sponsor start-ups and new ventures on the high street, claims the Grimsey Review, an alternative report of the high street led by Bill Grimsey, former CEO of Iceland, Wickes and Focus DIy. In his review, which offers 31 recommendations on how the vanishing high-street problem can be turned around, Grimsey is urging major players to but something back into the high street. He also claims that the one-off levy would create a “powerful fighting fund” of around £550m as opposed to the government’s current spent of £20m on highstreet initiatives. Research from analyst Company Watch, which uses the financial performance figures of nearly 44,000 retail companies with a total net worth of £58bn and has been the basis of the report, warns that more than 20,000 shops are in the “warning area”, representing an alarming 46.6 per cent of all retailers in the study.

In his report, Grimsey calls for a dramatic rethink of how high streets can be utilised in the future. “High-street policy is still very much in its infancy. Governments of all stripes have failed to get to grips with the big issues facing our high streets for years,” he says in the report’s foreword.

“And now in a period of deep decline there is an arms’ race for new ideas. We’ve seen reviews, pilots, future high-street forums and more,” he continues. “But none of these initiatives are making much impact, and there is a frustrating sense of policy being conducted in the margins. The need to grasp the nettle is bigger than ever. One thing is certain. The high-street landscape has irrevocably changed, and there is no point clinging on to a sentimental vision of the past. We have to start planning for a bold new world.”

Other issues that he examines include business rates, long-term planning, using technology to create “networked towns”, car parking, access to finance for small business, charity shops and planning regulations.

An interview with Bill Grimsey and a full report on the review will be published in the October issue of MWB. —

British denim label Pepe Jeans is expanding its Asian operation with the proposed opening of 50 stores over the next five years.

While Thailand is a priority, the brand is looking to open stores in Indonesia, the Philippines and South Korea, taking its store portfolio to 550 worldwide.

"After 15 trips to Thailand over the past three to four years, we saw huge potential in this market and expect to have 10 flagship stores there over the next five years," says Pepe’s international director Bart Denolf Bruyneel.

Pepe recently opened its biggest flagship store in South East Asia at Bangkok’s Central World shopping centre, with a 160 sq m store selling its full wardrobe offer. The company appointed Robinson department store to be its sole distributor there and plans to open five stores and 19 shop-in-shops at Robinson stores next year.

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SHOPBOP L AUN CHES MEN’S DEST IN AT ION EA ST DA N E East Dane, the dedicated menswear portal from the creator of Shopbop, launched yesterday with a designer portfolio including names such as 3.1 Phillip Lim, Gucci, Canada Goose, Paul Smith, Alexander Wang, Filson, Creep and Linda Farrow.

The site covers apparel, footwear and accessories, designed to be a one-stop online shop for the busy working man.

With 24/7 customer service lines, plus free international delivery, East Dane is similar to that of its sister site Shopbop. Clean and streamlined, the site includes lookbooks, product information and the capability to personalise your shopping experience with favourite designers, products and a wish list.

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september 2013 | news | mwb-online.co.uk | 07

IN BRIEF

FU RTHER GROW TH FOR J ACK ET R EQU IR ED

PR IM A R K R EVEA LS 2 2 PER CENT SALES INCREASE

Jacket Required, London’s biggest menswear trade show, is relocating to East London’s Old Truman Brewery for its a/w 14 edition, and will allow for the increase of 50 additional exhibitors.

Moving its dateline forward, the event will take place on 5-6 February 2014 in the grade II listed building – including a brand new space, which has been developed to house the show's next edition.

“Victoria House has been our home for four seasons – having initially been in the basement area, we were lucky enough to expand into the Ballroom,” says event manager Alice Elliott. “We feel a/w 14 is the right time to grow the show further. “To develop the exhibition and continue to offer a wide scope of both established brands and emerging labels, a return to East London seems natural yet new, in a fresh, different space to where everything began for Jacket Required just three years ago.”

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Primark is set to finish its financial year with stronger than projected results, reporting a sales increase of 22 per cent following the warm weather over the past three months.

Despite the quiet growth in March and April earlier this year, the high-street retailer saw its summer collection experience a positive response, with the opening of 16 new stores and a stronger Euro all aiding the group's sales increase.

The news comes as it also reveals it will not be renewing its contract with fashion e-tailer Asos, a partnership that saw Primark offer a capsule collection of select pieces on Asos, allowing the group to test the water online. Despite hitting targets set through the joint venture, Primark has no plans to open a transactional website, focusing instead on its European retail expansion – including its debut store opening in France before Christmas.

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GA N T DR IVES U K ON LIN E PRESENCE FURTHER

NEW SIGNINGS FOR ST JA MES’S REDEVELOPMENT

Gant has relaunched its UK e-commerce site, offering one consistent shopping experience for consumers browsing across a range of devices including webbased computers, tablets and mobile phones.

Designed to take advantage of the rise in mobile traffic, the new site follows the significant growth of e-commerce since the successful launch of the UK and Swedish websites onto a new platform last year.

“Gant was one of the first brands in the UK to launch an e-commerce platform, and now it represents a significant percentage of our total retail business,” says Fergus Patterson, MD of Gant UK. “We know that a large proportion of our customers shop with us using mobile browsing technology, and we want to ensure we give those customers a consistent browsing experience, so that shopping with Gant online is as enjoyable and as seamless as possible."

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Following in the footsteps of Scandinavian label Tiger of Sweden, Barbour and Sunspel are the latest names set to open stores in the recently regenerated St James’s Gateway, London.

British brand Sunspel will open a store on Jermyn Street, adding to its current portfolio of three stores in the capital. With a VIP consultation service available, the shop will also showcase the label's premium Sea Island Cotton range.

Heritage brand Barbour, meanwhile, will open a 300,000 sq ft store in November, featuring its Barbour Steve McQueen collection and a number of its other premium ranges.

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FORMER BENCH BOSS JOINS WEIRD FISH Casual leisure brand Weird Fish has appointed Kelvin Vidler, the former managing director of Americana International, parent of the Bench and Hooch labels, as its new international sales director. Vidler has been tasked with driving the international expansion of the brand through its wholesale channel, with Northern Europe the target for the initial stage. Weird Fish has been growing rapidly and has reported a 20 per cent increase in pre-sell for s/s 14 and an eight per cent rise in like-for-like sales growth in the first half of the year. It’s been backed by Piper, a leading specialist investor in consumer brands.

The brand, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, currently has 11 standalone retail stores and 450 wholesale accounts in the UK and the Netherlands.

— VACANCY RATES REMAIN HIGH Despite vacancy rates remaining stable across the UK, the amount of empty units is still “stubbornly high”, according to a report by the Local Data Company (LDC). The number of vacant stores currently stands at 22,339, which has gone down by 0.1 per cent from 14.2 per cent in 2012 to 14.1 per cent in 2013. Retail parks had the largest decline with a 0.8 per cent increase to 9.6 per cent of vacant units, while small towns fared better with an average vacancy rate of 9.2 per cent. “This report clearly shows that while the rise of empty shops has stalled, it still remains stubbornly high for many towns up and down the country,” says LDC director Matthew Hopkinson. “Since August 2010, the national average has been above 14 per cent, with a significant number being “long-term sick” with little or no prospect of reoccupation as shops.”

— CAMPAIGN SEES NEW #DIESELREBOOT GENERATION OF AMBASSADORS Denim label Diesel has released its latest campaign, #DIESELREBOOT, which is the first project from the brand's artistic director Nicola Formichetti.

The campaign brings together 18 diverse characters who embrace the Diesel DNA, including “originality” and “bravery”.

The cast includes pink-haired graffiti artist Michelle Calderon, Japanese actress Kiko Mizuhara, electro-house DJ Bob Rifo and female Olympian-turnedmale-supermodel Casey Legler. All 18 were self-styled in Diesel denim and leather, customised by Formichetti. The #DIESELREBOOT initiative also saw the brand announce its presence on Tumblr – (dieselreboot.tumblr.com) – gathering a community of creative both on the platform as well as hosting worldwide real-life “tumblr meet-ups”. Since, Diesel has championed the work of these up-and-coming talents, challenging them with creative missions, and publishing handpicked selections in international media and projections of credited artworks in the largest capitals of the world.

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september 2013 | news | mwb-online.co.uk | 08

IN BRIEF

WAGE ERROR SEES £40M PAYOU T FOR J OHN LEW IS

BRIA N ROSE FRONTS L ATEST LU K E CA M PA IGN

Department store John Lewis paid out £40m last month to fix a salary blunder, following its admittance that it had underpaid staff for working on Sundays and bank holidays, with some cases dating back to 2006.

As many as 69,000 of its 85,000 work force were set to receive a one-off payment, with the average pay-out totalling £120. John Lewis explained that the error occurred because its pay calculations did not comply correctly with employment laws.

Famous for its “never knowingly undersold” slogan, the retailer will not take the £40m from the current year’s bonus pool – paid annually to staff – which last year totalled £210m shared among the 84,700 workers.

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Menswear brand Luke has announced the latest face to front its collection, professional boxer Brian Rose.

The British light-middleweight champion recently beat former world champion Joachim Alcine to hold the WBO intercontinental title.

“With all this in mind and his rugged good looks, Rose was the ideal choice to front our Survival campaign,” says founder and creative director Luke Roper. “He’s come a long way, from his upbringing in Blackpool to professional boxer and now, with his chiselled looks, he can add “model” and “face of Luke’s a/w 13 collection” to his remarkably impressive CV. Rose represents and epitomises everything the collection stands for, and we champion his fight for World Championship in the not-so-distant future.”

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BOXPARK OFFERS ONE-WEEK POP-UP UNITS Boxpark Shoreditch, the retail destination in the heart of East London’s fashion and art district, is offering one-week pop-up units for sample sales or short-term retail events.

Complete with fixtures, fittings, internet, PDQ and online PR and marketing support, the units are available for £1,000 per week. Boxpark is the world’s first pop-up mall, spread across two floors of 60 shipping containers housing innovative designers, artists, fashion brands, performers and food shops, and has become known as the “home of the popup” thanks to affordable rates and flexible terms. For a full list of current brands and events visit www.boxpark.co.uk or download the free Boxpark app at www.boxpark.co.uk/app.

— FASHION LAW SEMINAR DISCUSSES KEY BUSINESS ISSUES Law firm Fox Williams will present its annual Fashion Law seminar on 9 October 2013, looking at business issues including challenges facing a growing business and how to protect your market position and brand. Held at the RSB International HQ, London EC2M 4AA, the event will start at 6pm with a presentation and Q&A session, and a reception to follow. For further information and seminar registration email events@foxwilliams.com.

— BIRA UNVEILS CASHBACK INITIATIVE The British Independent Retail Association (Bira) has launched a cashback reward scheme, designed to give members £30 or £60 cashback when the make an order with a new supplier.

Buyers will be required to make an order of the minimum value of £300, with the initiative running through to 31 December this year. All Bira members will be eligible for the cashback reward scheme. “By offering a cash incentive, we hope to reduce the financial burden of trying a new supplier and bring added value to Bira membership,” says Paul Woolley, managing director of Bira Direct.

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BEN SHER M A N L AU N CHES SHIRT BA R A PP

CONFIDENCE HIGH AS RETA ILERS SEE SALES LEAP

British label Ben Sherman has launched its first digital Shirt Bar application, aiming to replicate the in-store environment with over 88 different shirt designs.

The shirt remains a signature item for the brand, with new concept stores all featuring Ben Sherman Shirt Bars, staffed by trained experts to help customers find the perfect fit. Other features within the app include information on different colours, cuffs, collars and fabric, while the "shirt of the week" is displayed on a rotating mannequin.

“It’s an exciting time to be working with Ben Sherman, as digital becomes more and more a part of how the brand will grow,” says a spokesperson from digital agency Like Digital Media. "We are really enjoying creating digital solutions that play on both the rich heritage of the brand while also pushing its brand story into hands of its new digital customer."

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Sparked by a fast-recovering housing sector and led by well-performing department stores, figures earlier this month in BDO’s monthly High Street Sales Tracker show overall like-for-like high-street sales in August were up 3.5 per cent.

Fashion sales recovered from sharp dips in previous months to a year-on-year decrease of 0.3 per cent. According to Don Williams, national head of retail and wholesale at BDO LLP, fashion stores have benefited from pent-up demand once the July heat wave eased and shoppers started to look for autumn lines.

“It has been a strong month,” says Williams.

“This time last year, the feel-good factor came from the Olympics. This year, it is prompted by the change in tone in the media and consumers being less fearful of imminent restructurings and redundancy. There is no doubt confidence is returning slowly.”

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ONLINE SALES DOUBLE IN AUGUST The e-commerce market returned to double-digit growth during August, with online sales up by 18 per cent year on year – double that of the growth rate in July, which stood at nine per cent year on year, the latest figures from IMRG Capgemini reveal. After a poor July performance for multichannel retailers following the heat wave, which boosted the performance of high streets and bricks-and-mortar stores but had a negative impact on online sales, etailers have returned to double digit growth. Multichannel retailers have seen a rise in sales by 17 per cent, while online-only retailers clocked up a 19 per cent rise. M-commerce, meanwhile, was up by 133 per cent yearon-year. The clothing category grew by 18 per cent, compared with 10 per cent in July, while high-ticket sectors such as home and garden lead the way with the strongest performance of 25 per cent growth, suggesting that consumer confidence is recovering.

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september 2013 | AdVice | mwb-online.co.uk | 10

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: HOW TO REVIEW yOUR EMAIL MARKETING TO CAPITALISE ON THE CHRISTMAS PERIOD

NEWS

Now is the time to conduct some important audits of your email marketing campaigns to capitalise on the Christmas retail season. Here are three key points to remember:

KESTREL LEMEN is a marketing strategist at Bronto Software and is available through fieldworksmarketing.co.uk

FORMS FOR MOBILE DEVICES: Test function and usability of forms on smartphones and tablets. Ensure that the forms render properly, correctly capture data points and are easy for the potential subscriber to use.

Customise forms for mobile devices and plan to promote them in your stores to increase subscriber acquisition and help the customer to take advantage of both in-store and online shopping opportunities. Site load time is a huge factor in a mobile user experience; so if you are linking to your site, make sure it can handle the increased traffic.

REVIEW THE 2012 COMMUNICATION PLAN: At this stage, you have reviewed mailing data from Christmas 2012 and pencilled in a few ideas for your 2013 communication plan. Make sure to review the best performing campaigns, worst performing campaigns, promotions that were or were not successful and how timing affected the performance of your messages. This information can be vital in getting a jump on this year’s holiday season. Find the gaps between your intentions and the reality of what was sent last year.

Did you veer off course because of underperformance, technical issues or resource limitations?

BUILD THE 2013 CHRISTMAS COMMUNICATION PLAN: A well-built communication plan should include, at a minimum, the following elements: - Mailing name, send date and day of week - Subject line options - Promotion information – goal, actual and difference for open, click and conversion rate - Segment to be mailed – goal, actual and difference for revenue Although numerous reports will be generated throughout the Christmas season, documenting your mailing plan will help you track progress, measure performance, troubleshoot issues and provide a record of the season when you start planning for the 2014 holiday period. By following some of these guidelines and planning, you can maximise the return on investment of your Christmas email marketing campaigns.

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WEB WATCH

WWW.THECOOLHUNTER.CO.UK While this site may be more suited to the creatives among us, The Cool Hunter is a collective of all things inspirational, quirky and, you’ve guessed it, cool. From architecture to travel to nature, this website collects images from around the globe of objects, innovations, inventions, paintings and so much more, designed to inspire and excite. One section worth checking out is the Stores tab, which takes a look at interesting retail spaces across the world from London to Japan – the latest being the new Opening Ceremony store in Tokyo.

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SIMON CARTER DEVELOPS ONLINE RETAIL ARM Eponymous label Simon Carter has extended its retail reach to incorporate an online arm. The site, www.simoncarter.net, includes a purchase tab, moving on from the corporate static site it had previously. Featuring both the brand’s accessories offer – such as cufflinks, watches and pocket squares - as well as its clothing range, including Liberty print shirts and tailored suits, the site highlights the location of Simon Carter stores nationwide.

— ONLINE GROWTH SLOWS WHILE M-COMMERCE SEES 129 PER CENT INCREASE Online sales rose by just nine per cent in July, the weakest annual growth since January 2010, according to the IMRG Capgemini e-Retail Sales Index.

As the heat wave the country experienced drove people outside, online sales growth dipped. This performance reflects a recent poll by IMRG, which found that two-thirds of retailers surveyed said prolonged hot weather in July had a negative impact on their online sales.

“There is no doubt that the prolonged heat wave had a detrimental effect on online retailers,” says Tina Spooner, chief information officer, IMRG. “Following the coldest spring in over 50 years, it is hardly surprising that Britons headed outside when the much-needed sunshine appeared. It is interesting to note, however, that it is only desktop sales that appear to have been impacted; the mobile sales growth of 129 per cent is lower than recent months but not significantly so. This suggests that consumers still shopped via their devices while bathing in the sun.”

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COME OUT AND PLAY

For trade enquiries and for the new SS14 brochure, call 0844 811 2322

regatta.com

september 2013 | retAil | news & opinion | 12

RETAIL INSIDER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

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VIEWPOINT CHRISTOPHER SCOTNEy, Christopher Scotney, Leicestershire

PAU L SM ITH A DDS TO SOHO R ETAIL L A NDSCA PE British design house Paul Smith has opened its latest store in London’s Soho shopping district, dedicated to selling men’s clothing, shoes and accessories.

The retail space, located on Beak Street, opened earlier last month, and will be the first Paul Smith store with an exclusive bespoke jeans service, offering a choice of drainpipe, tapered, standard and classic fit to exact waist size and length.

While each style is available in a range of denims, from super-heavy slub denim, to rainbow selvedge, shoppers can customise trims, stitch thread colour, leather back patch, rivet and stud details.

Spread over two floors, the store blends a mixture of both contemporary and traditional design, with the ground floor designed to have a modernist feel, while the upper floor reflects the playful, eclectic nature of Smith’s own office. The designer’s 13th shop also features limited quantities of products imported from Japan, alongside a capsule collection of made in England items in collaborations with British mills and factories.

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IN BRIEF LEE COOPER OPENS NEW STORE IN INDIA With a turnover of $100m in retail sales in India, Lee Cooper continues to capitalise on its success, expanding its presence once more with a new store opening in Bangalore last month. Set over two floors, separating women’s and men’s, the store showcases the Lee Cooper’s latest concept, I Am In, which is targeted at “21-30 year old shoppers seeking individual style.”

The brand is also planning to open two further stores in Indian cities Thane and Napur.

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PRIVATE TRAVEL FOR ARCHER ADAMS CUSTOMERS Eponymous tailoring brand Archer Adams has launched its own private taxi service, to bring clients directly to the shop door following Adams’ purchase of a traditional London cab. Additionally, the store itself, which is located in Marylebone, has undergone a revamp with a modern, contemporary approach to its interior.

Alongside its retail store, Archer Adams is stocked in Mr Porter, Liberty, Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus.

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Christopher Scotney is the owner of the eponymous designerwear retailer in Leicestershire, which opened in 1972. He is a committee member of the Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

Buying is a whole different ball game to what it used to be. I used to do buying in Florence, but I find that the brands no longer feel the need to source new customers, so in that sense it makes the labels we do carry even more exclusive. My preferred buying strategy involves visiting Harvey Nichols, Harrods and Selfridges in London three to four times a year.

I will look at the brands and chat to the sales staff, who I always find unfailingly helpful once you’re honest about why you’re there.

While sales in formal hire and suits in occasionwear have been down, we have an inkling that 2014 is going to be a bumper crop.

Finding the right brand for our customer has never been easy but, when it’s right, it works.

We’ve had a 93 per cent sell-through for Stone Island and 89 per cent for Armani jeans. In footwear, the “shoe fits”, as far as our brands are concerned, so we won’t be sourcing new labels.

Oliver Sweeney, Hugo Boss Green, Hugo Boss Orange, Jeffrey West and Armani all walk out of the door so, as long they sell, we’ll keep buying.

The fashion industry has changed so much in the past 30 years. Many aspects have progressed, but one thing we’ve found is that with regards to suppliers, the loyalty isn’t there anymore. I’ve done good business with one supplier for over 30 years and yet I have found its manner increasingly difficult recently despite the history we have. When all is said and done, I am proud of our reputation as a top premium menswear store with exceptional customer service. Our customers continue to stay loyal while bringing us new customers by recommendation. In this retail climate, it’s fair to say that simply existing and surviving is a major achievement, but to continue to have such supportive clients is an absolute bonus. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk —

september 2013 | retAil | news & opinion | 13

SHOPPED: NORTHERN THREADS Has having a proper summer this time around helped with business? yes, 100 per cent. It’s cleared us out. We’ve had a fantastic end to the season with the good weather. Even though final discounts were at 40 per cent off, we pretty much sold out of all the lighter weight T-shirts, shorts, vests and short-sleeved shirts – so it’s done what it said on the tin, and we’re going into autumn with a bit of money in the bank for a change. The summer season is traditionally much more difficult, and obviously you haven’t got “double bubble” with Christmas in terms of sales. The last three summers have been difficult, so thank god we’ve had some nice weather – it’s really PHIL GOODFELLOW, co-owner, helped and it gives everyone a lift. nortHern tHreAds, — soutH sHields Has it meant you’ve been more buoyant with your buying for s/s 14?

For the last two seasons we’ve cut back dramatically to keep it tight but, going into next summer, we slightly increased our spend, and taken on some new brands on, too. We’ve bought into Le Coq Sportif footwear, because the running shoe has been phenomenal for us, as well as Aquascutum, and we’ve also taken yMC back. In terms of Aquascutum, we’re doing very well with brands that have a history behind them, and I think with yMC we maybe let it go a bit too early.

People have been asking for it and, even though we’re a very branddriven business, we are getting those more savvy shoppers in as well, so you have to have an element of product to cater for them. The collection was very good, and a bit better priced.

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IN FOCUS: KAFKA MAINLINE 5 ALFORD PLACE, ABERDEEN AB10 1yD

ESTABLISHED: 1990 BRANDS ON OFFER: monitAly, niGel cAbourn, enGineered GArments, bArbour, comme des GArcons, woolricH, moncler, Apc, officine GenerAle, post o’Alls, yuketen, incotex, boGlioli, Aspesi

SCOT TISH STAN DA LONE DEBUT FOR COMMON PEOPLE Contemporary menswear label Common People has made its retail debut with its first standalone store, located in Stockbridge, Edinburgh.

Set on 46 St Stephen Street in and amongst the city’s cool eateries, galleries and boutiques, the shop also houses the brand design studio – a natural choice as the home town of creative director Kestin Hare.

The store interior has been designed with a minimal luxe feel, with bold industrial features including original lighting constructed from reclaimed bed frames, as well as fitting room curtains made from 14oz waxed selvedge denim from Dundee-based Halley Stevenson.

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IN BRIEF

Kafka is another one of those British menswear institutions when it comes to independents – always striving to bring in something new and stay one step ahead of the game.

Owner Russell Cameron opened Kafka Mainline around 10 years ago in the West End of Aberdeen. “We haven’t really got a USP,” says Cameron. “We just buy stock that we like ourselves.”

Good taste counts for everything, of course. He also notes that with the advent of the growth of the internet business, it’s given them more freedom to express themselves on the buying side – for the store as well, as people are generally getting more educated towards the best brands and products through the internet. “We are, and fundamentally always will be, a bricks-and-mortar store,” he says. “But with the level of interest we’re getting on the internet, we need to target that audience as well. So, in a way, we’re aiming at a more select market. But the good thing was, when we made the change and provided a more product-based offer, our local customer ‘got it’ as well, so it was a win-win situation.” As the old saying goes, you’ve got to be in it to win it.

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UNIVERSAL WORKS OPENS ON BERWICK STREET Menswear label Universal Works opened its doors in Soho earlier last month. Located at 40 Berwick Street, the store measures 771 sq ft and joins the likes of Nudie Jeans, Underground Shoes, Percival, Oliver Spencer and Footpatrol. Launched in 2009

by David Keyte, Universal Works continues to create wearable and sustainable yet affordable menswear.

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september 2013 | interView | 14

INTERVIEW

ADAM BROWN Orlebar Brown’s meteoric rise from new men’s swimwear label to full ready-to-wear luxury “resortwear” brand – stocked in some of the finest stores in the world in just over six years – has been impressive.

Now, with an £8m investment, it’s on track for even greater growth. Tom Bottomley got the story from founder and owner Adam Brown.

— Tom Bottomley: What’s your background?

Adam Brown: I worked as a portrait photographer in London for eight years. I didn’t have any background in fashion, clothing or retail – no experience at all. I launched Orlebar Brown out of a spare room. The idea came to me while relaxing round the pool on a particular holiday with friends.

And I ran with it. I was with a fashion-savvy bunch, all interested in design. But, while all the girls had fantastic swimwear on and looked great, the guys all had pretty rubbish swimwear and looked dreadful, which really struck me. Being a photographer, I also had quite a critical eye.

— TB: So how did it develop from there?

AB: It was just an idea that kept nagging away at me. I felt there was a gap in the market for good men’s swimwear, but also what you wear when you come off the beach for lunch. So I thought a more tailored approach to swim shorts was what was needed. Shorts you can wear on the beach, but which look equally good when you go for lunch off the beach. That was the initial idea, and that is what the whole collection stems around.

— TB: But you did it without any design background?

AB: I did a week-long drawing course so I could give information to a pattern cutter and I spent 18 months doing a business plan, sourcing fabrics, finding a factory, building a website and so on. It was really basic, nothing clever at all. I took out a

OWNER ORLEBAR BROWN

september 2013 | interView | 15

bit of money on my flat and made 1,000 pairs of shorts, put the stock in a storage unit on Fulham Broadway, and started selling from the website.

That’s how it started. I launched the website at the end of February 2007. When the orders came through, I’d pick the stock out of the storage unit and stand in a queue at Fulham Broadway Post Office to send the order. I did everything myself for two years.

— TB: It must have been quite an impressive website then?

AB: Well I obviously couldn’t afford to open a store, so I had to start online. Being a photographer and having a visual background – that was the bit I loved. The whole idea that you could give an idea “breath” through a website, which only cost £5,000 to begin with. Through strong photography and graphics I could make it appear like we were a lot more established. It was a touch of “smoke and mirrors”. It didn’t look like a start-up. The challenge is obviously getting the traffic to the website, because it’s a bit like opening your flagship store on the quietest street in the world – you need to get people there. Julia Simpson Orlebar, my friend and former business partner – who I started the company with and left amicably six months in as she decided starting her own business wasn’t the life she wanted – had a PR company. And I used to work with a lot of PR companies, so I’ve always been very aware of the value of the press. Julia’s husband is a director of the company and we’re still very good friends, by the way.

— TB: So right from the early days you were very press savvy, but how did you keep the momentum going?

AB: Well obviously they couldn’t keep writing about the same old navy and sky blue shorts, which is absolutely the backbone of the business, so we had to make product that was absolutely press worthy and was interesting enough to write about. We courted the press through our product.

We kept reinventing it, and subsequently added new product categories, too.

— TB: When were other products added?

AB: It was only around three years ago that we introduced two T-shirts, a towelling polo shirt and

a pique polo shirt. It’s a corny expression but quite true – we took our brand “off the beach, out of the pool and into the resort.”

— TB: And how has it grown?

AB: The T-shirts and polo shirts now represent 30 per cent of our business, and we’re a full “resortwear” collection. So we have a full range of chinos, shorts, cotton shirts, lightweight jackets, sweatshirts and so on, and it’s just a much more complete story.

— TB: Who would you say is your target market?

AB: Well, I’m in my mid 40s and live in West London, and I was ultimately initially designing for myself. But I was always very clear that the product should not be as niche as that, because it was already a niche product being tailored swim shorts. I think a true classic product is something that appeals to all age groups and a broad range of types of people. So, all Orlebar Brown shorts should be able to be worn on a beach in Ibiza by 20-year-old guys, but also older guys who might be going to make sandcastles with their kids in Cornwall, or they’re going to stay on their yacht off Portofino in Italy or the South of France. What’s taken me by surprise somewhat is the interest from an older group of men who care about provenance, and who want classic tailoring and stuff that isn’t going to date. They also care about where the stuff is sourced and where it’s made. They have a fairly evolved sense of how they want to look, and therefore remain loyal to what they like, so will come back year after year for a different colour of something they bought the year before, whether it’s shorts or a shirt. They’ve found something that works for them and will keep buying it. So, for a comparatively niche product, we have a broad customer base. A classic, timeless product should have that breadth of accessibility.

— TB: Where do you sit price-wise?

AB: Our Bulldog mid-length shorts with the side adjusters retail at £130. That and the

shorter Setter style are our bestsellers. The polos start at £85 and go up to £125. We source and manufacture in Europe, but on the shorts we also still work with our first factory, which is based in North London.

— TB: What would you say was the real turning point that took the business to another level from such humble beginnings?

AB: Our first wholesale account was Shop at Bluebird, which came about via a friend. But Selfridges was our first big break, and clearly had a big change on the business as a whole.

They took a gamble on us because we had no track record. It made us a lot more visible and gave us access to the footfall and volume. We now have approximately 250 accounts around the world, around 35 of those are in the UK. We’ve barely scratched the surface because I read somewhere the other day that Vilebrequin has something like 750 accounts, and there is no reason why we shouldn’t be in every stockist that Vilebrequin is in. It’s a model of business that is relevant to us, because it’s a great business, great product and we both fill a different part of the swimwear market.

— TB: So has the new £8m investment from private equity firm Piper come off the back of the growth that you foresee for the future?

AB: yes it has. But I’ll make it clear that it is a significant minority. Over the past six years we’ve laid really good foundations. We’ve showed that we can introduce new product categories, and we’ve created a story as a whole that now needs to be built on. We’ve also now got a healthy mix of sales channels, with around 45 per cent from wholesale, and we have the website and our retail shops – the first of which opened in June 2011 on Ledbury Road in Notting Hill – and our flagship, which opened on Sackville in spring of last year. America is a very important market to us, because 30 per cent of our business is from the US at the moment, and that’s without an office or staff, no marketing initiatives and no store – yet!

“I obviously couldn’t afford to open a store, so I had to start online. Being a photographer and having a visual background – that was the bit I loved.

The whole idea that you could give an idea ‘breath’ through a website”

september 2013 | profile | tHe Hub | 16

THE HUB TAPS INTO FAR EAST PROMISE With a strong contingent of British names among its 100 exhibitors, new Hong Kong trade show The Hub made its debut last month as Asia’s first trade event dedicated exclusively to branded fashion. Nick Cook was there to find out why China and the surrounding regions are now a key target for a growing number of menswear labels.

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With a position as the global hub for trade between East and West stretching back centuries, Hong Kong has been one of the key destinations on the international fashion circuit for longer than anyone working in the industry today would care to remember.

For many of the brands taking part in new trade show The Hub, which took place last month at Hong Kong’s Asia World Exhibition Centre, it meant a visit to familiar territory. But this time it was with a very different purpose. Rather than looking to source fabrics and garments destined for the West, exhibitors at The Hub were in town to show their ranges to retailers and buyers from Hong Kong, mainland China, Korea and other key Asian markets now topping many brands’ hit lists as offering major growth opportunities for western labels.

“Asia is the world’s biggest growth story right now, and Asian retailers have never been keener to find out about international fashion brands,” says The Hub co-founder Peter Caplowe who, along with business partner Richard Hobbs, launched the concept to the trade at the beginning of this year. Two Hong Kong based Brits with decades of fashion industry experience, both Caplowe and Hobbs have for years worked with a

whole portfolio of brands looking to expand their presence in the Asian market. Richard Hobbs is also the man behind premium denim brand Real Real Genuine, while Peter Caplowe was founder and CEO of Japanese denim brand Evisu, which he brought to the international market in 1994.

The concept of launching a Hong Kong trade show was something the business partners had been taking about for a long time but, as the buzz around the region’s potential continued to build, they decided two years ago that it was time to take the plunge.

The steady opening up of the Chinese market has unlocked the potential of the world’s most populous country for a whole range of western businesses. In addition, one of the key motivators in putting together The Hub was China’s growing middle class – a consumer less interested in fashion giants such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci, which formed the first wave of fashion brands to enter China, than in more affordable western names with a strong degree of design and brand integrity. The same, say Caplowe and Hobbs, can also be said for Hong Kong, which has seen a raft of new retail openings in recent years.

According to a recent report by property consultancy firm CBRE, Hong Kong saw the arrival

of 51 new retailers in 2012 – almost double that of regional counterparts Tokyo and Singapore. Says Hobbs, “The inaugural edition of The Hub was timed to coincide with insatiable consumer demand for brands that offer more than just another overpriced handbag.”

The debut edition certainly achieved its aim of putting together a strong line-up of credible brands. Featuring four product zones, The Hub saw brands including Sandqvist, John Smedley and Orlebar Brown showing under the Contemporary banner, and the likes of Alan Paine Knitwear, Chester Barrie, Henri Lloyd, Penrose and Sunspel showing in its Heritage area. Denim zone Indigo featured brands such as Blueblood, Desigual, Evisu and Take 5, while the Street area saw familiar names such as Adidas y3, Dickies, Elvis Jesus and Luke 1977.

For most exhibitors this was as much a factfinding visit as anything else – something of which the organisers were also well aware, and had made provision for with an accompanying programme of networking events and seminars taking place at and around the show. Given the fact that franchise partnerships and licensing deals remain a popular model for entry into Asia, few exhibitors were expecting to come home with

september 2013 | profile | tHe Hub | 17

bursting wholesale order pads. What they were hoping to return with was new contacts in key markets and a better understanding of how business works in the region as a whole. At the end of the show’s three days it seemed those goals had been achieved.

Speaking on the opening day of the show, Henri Lloyd CEO Paul Strzelecki said that the brand’s participation in The Hub had made a positive contribution to a long-term strategy to develop the brand in China and the wider Asian market. “In terms of export markets that we’re not currently in, China is definitely at the top of the list,” says Strzelecki. “I think it’s clear that there is huge potential to do business out here but, as with most emerging markets the key to success will be finding the right partner. I know The Hub deliberately targeted companies of our size rather than huge corporations, and it seems like the right moment for SMEs to be looking to China for growth.”

It’s a view shared by the UK Fashion & Textiles Association (UKFT) which, following the show’s launch at the beginning of the year, added The Hub to its list of international shows for which British companies can qualify for government support in order to take part. It’s not just the support, however, that motivated British labels to participate, with British heritage itself also a valuable currency in the Chinese and Asian markets.

Tailoring and lifestyle label Chester Barrie was at The Hub with the primary aim of meeting potential licensing partners for China and Korea, picking up strong leads in both markets over the course of the show. “It’s over the next month that we’ll find out the true value of the leads we’ve picked up, but it's been very positive,” says the label’s international brands director, George Orris.

“We’d have liked to have seen a few more people from Hong Kong itself but, in terms of tailoring, which is still our core product, you see more

people in suits in China and Korea than you do in Hong Kong.” Areas such as fabric and sizing, says Orris, have to be adapted in order for brands to succeed in Asia. But in terms of remaining true to a brand’s ethos, this is something Orris believes today’s licensing partners are as keen to do as the labels themselves. “We’re working with licensees in other markets, and they want as much guidance, input and technical knowledge from us as they can get,” he says. Given the seriousness and sophistication of today’s best licensing partners, it seems that worries over a licensee failing to remain true to a brand’s ethos are something that can now, thankfully, be consigned to the past.

Knitwear brand John Smedley, meanwhile, continues to manufacture in the UK for all global markets, and was taking part in The Hub with a view to finding a retail or franchise partner in mainland China. No stranger to export – the brand celebrates its 100th year in Japan this year – the company now feels that China harbours the most potential out of the so called BRICS markets (Brazil, Russia, India, China and South Africa) in which it’s not currently present.

“Like most companies, we’ve looked at all of the BRICS markets, and we think there is a place for the brand in China, albeit within a particular niche,” says Jamie Tunnicliffe, Smedley global sales and marketing director.

“The fact that the product is Made in Britain is something that goes down well in China, and the new wealthier Chinese consumers are prepared to pay for it.” The additional fact that the brand was this year awarded a Royal Warrant will no doubt add to John Smedley’s cachet.

Upper income groups in mainland China are expected to almost double between now and 2017, so it seems that demand for the type of premium brands targeted by The Hub is only set to grow in the coming years. The same can be said for the show’s more casual and denim areas, where many brands were looking to replicate the success of labels such as Superdry and The Duffer of St George, both making strong strides into the Chinese and East Asian markets.

Bauhaus Holdings, partner for both brands in the

ricHArd Hobbs And peter cAplowe

Chinese market, was among the major retail players visiting the show, looking for new names for its 280-plus stores throughout Hong Kong, China and Taiwan.

“We visit the big global shows such as Bread & Butter and Premium in Berlin, or Project in Las Vegas, but it’s great to see a show like The Hub taking place at home,” says Bauhaus’ Man Chan, strategic marketing director at the Hong Kong retailer. “Up until now, the trade shows taking place in Hong Kong have been focused on sourcing, so a well-edited show of such highquality brands is something that we as a retailer welcome.

Hong Kong is easy to get to from all countries in the region and, as the show grows, I think it’s going to attract a lot more people from right across Asia.”

With the debut show now over, work is under way on the second edition of The Hub, taking place at the same venue on 25-27 February 2014. At the same time, the retail landscape in China continues to change apace, something that The Hub founders Richard Hobbs and Peter Caplowe believe will mean even more opportunity for international brands next year.

“Because of the way the retail market initially developed in China, fast fashion has been perceived as high fashion,” says Caplowe.

“Now that salaries are increasing and the economy is becoming less production-based, more and more consumers are upgrading to brands who really know what branding is.

Chinese retailers themselves are getting a push form the government too. Multi-brand retail is ready to explode.” www.thehub.hk

“Asia is the world’s biggest growth story right now, and Asian retailers have never been keener to find out about international fashion brands”

september 2013 | Gent | contents | 19

G E N T

A BRIEF AFFAIR Discovered at this season’s edition of Pitti Uomo, The White Briefs is a simple yet stylish loungewear and underwear label, spanning womenswear, menswear and childrenswear.

Playing with the typical dimensions and proportions of leisurewear, the spring/summer 2014 range looks towards an unconventional maritime-inspired silhouette. Forged from soft ecological combed cotton twill, sleek sheer poplins and terry cloth, the collection comprises lightweight shorts, crafted shirts and boxers, which are structured with a high-waisted design, incorporating sharp detailing and crisp tailoring. In addition, the new season welcomes the introduction of swimwear, consisting of recycled fabrics in shades including dark navy, white, chalky anthracite, turquoise and mauve.

The Scandinavian label is stocked worldwide, with UK stockists including Dover Street Market, Selfridges and Liberty, London independent retailers Trunk and Cabinet, as well as Manchester store Lissom & Muster. www.thewhitebriefs.com —

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Product news

26

Heart and soul

32

Moda s/s 14: the trends

Rounding up the key stories this month

22

In-season stock

24

Foot patrol

Layer cake News and developments from the mainstream footwear brands

MWB’s pick of the key footwear trends for spring/summer 2014 The key products, themes and trends from this season’s Moda Gent

SEPTEMBER 2013 | GENT | PRODUCT | 20

RadaR

PROdUCT NEWS

Spotlighting style.

Inside menswear.

F R E D’ S NEW FAC E

CASAMoDA ESTABLISHED: 1924 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Split into two categories – Business (including Business Premium) and Casual (comprising Sport, Club and Heritage) – Casamoda continues to offer classic and colour-filled wardrobe staples to the mainstream menswear market.

— HISTORY: With nearly 90 years of experience in designing, producing and distributing quality shirts and knitwear, the German label has grown from a small fabric and textile company to recording a turnover of €75.5m in 2012 with a complete wardrobe offer.

Categorised into three separate delivery drops, Casamoda presents its collection in three distinct colour themes for spring/summer 2014.

The first drop, Boston, is defined by a blue base from Royal through to midnight, with green, magenta, red and turquoise providing flashes of contrast. The collection’s second delivery draws its inspiration from Wellfleet Harbour, which echoes the colours of the small harbours and coastal towns of Cape Cod, comprising lime, coral and pink set against blue and khaki brown. Finally, the third offering, inspired by the beaches of Cape Cod, is a blend of vanilla yellow, complemented by similar neutral shades.

Retaining the brand’s high quality for the new season, fabrics are key, with oxford and dobby weaves, seersucker and slub yarns featuring throughout. Finishes, meanwhile, include horn buttons, piping in decorative colouring and embroidery on the inner colour. Elsewhere, Casamoda’s knitwear offer features new structures and colour schemes including varying yarn thicknesses and plating effects. www.casamoda.com —

Men’s jewellery label Fred Bennett has relaunched into the market for autumn/winter 2013 with a new identity and expanded range of pendants, wristwear and cufflinks. The brand’s latest collection includes a heavy duty approach in terms of finishes with rugged textures, mixed metals and worn leather.

Colour is also prevalent throughout, in a palette comprising royal blue, earthy green and burnt orange. The label will introduce an exclusive gift set ready for the Christmas selling period, including a Fred Bennett jewellery case in stainless steel. Coinciding with the relaunch of the brand, this month will see the unveiling of the inaugural Fred Bennett website.

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C E LE BR AT I O N O F C O LO U R Scottish knitwear label Johnstons of Elgin reflects its love of colour this spring/summer 2014 with a rich, vibrant palette of poppy red, tangerine and fuchsia, alongside classic shades such as indigo denim and white.

New additions within the collection include the polo shirt, which gives a definite nod to the Mod trend, while the argyle knit is updated with vibrant hues. A new development in terms of fabric this season is the production of a new luxe fibre – a superfine blend of extra-fine wool, silk and cashmere – which results in a soft-to-the-touch surface with draping qualities.

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september 2013 | Gent | product | 21

ON TREND Seasonal extras: Cufflinks

T HE I C O NS As a continuation of its collaboration with the Teenage Cancer Trust, menswear label Ben Sherman unveils its latest collection, The Icons – a shirt project that sees five different icons from 1960 to 2000 design a print that has been placed on Ben Sherman’s hallmark button-down shirt.

The Who’s Roger Daltrey saw his Union Jack inspired print feature on the collection’s 60s shirt (pictured), while pop artist Sir Peter Blake utilised a star symbol on the pocket of his 70s shirt. Bernard Summer, lead vocalist of New Order, created the collection’s 80s shirt, featuring a Veritas emblem on the front pocket, which stands for “truth” in Latin. Brit pop icon Jarvis Cocker, meanwhile, showcased his signature thick-rimmed spectacles embroidered on the front, and English artists Jake and Dino Chapman created a white Oxford shirt featuring a red smiley faces print.

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1: BABETTE WASSERMAN price on request 020 8964 9777 2: DENISON BOSTON £24 01273 202095 3: PAUL SMITH price on request 020 7257 6673 4: SIMON CARTER £14.70 020 8683 4475 5: TATEOSSIAN £60 020 7384 8317

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

BRAND TO WATCH

ANTONy MORATO For spring/summer 2014, Italian menswear label Antony Morato splits its new collection into three different lines – Gold, Silver and Black.

The Gold line focuses on denim with a vintage twist, ranging from relaxed chinos to lightweight pixilated and vintage jacquard shirting.

Footwear in this range comprises burnished leather grey brogues, casual suede hi-tops and distressed ankle boots. Detailing, meanwhile, draws its inspiration from St Tropez with rope details, nautical stripes and red stitched pockets.

The collection also welcomes the addition of the Silver line, a mix of sports-infused pieces inspired by the Sports Luxe trend. Featuring classic colours such as navy, red and grey, the collection sees an exaggerated silhouette enhanced by embossed logos and silver print branding. Standout pieces include relaxed soft close woven zipped hoodies and drawstring bottoms, combined with cotton tees.

Finally, Antony Morato’s premium offering comes in the form of the Black label, which pays tribute to the world of Quentin Tarantino. Buyers can expect Pulp Fiction style slim-fit suits teamed with crisp-white shirting and skinny ties, while highlights include leather biker jackets and blazers in vibrant Kill Bill yellow. www.morato.it —

estAblisHed: 2007 — siGnAture style: Trend-focused menswear that encompasses an Italian flare for dressing while retaining competitive price points.

— History: The brand was founded in Italy six years ago by siblings Lello, Giovanni and Tania Caldarelli, and is now sold in over 3,000 shops worldwide.

september 2013 | Gent | product | 22

sAmsoe & sAmsoe £43 0845 862 2056

mA.strum £84 0845 459 0334

crombie £89 020 7659 9047

cAmel ActiVe price on request 0161 234 0999

merc £29 020 7495 8538

fyncH HAtton price on request 0116 236 2304

elVine £34 020 7725 5700

LAyER CAKE Lightweight knits are a staple in the British man’s wardrobe, with unpredictable weather calling out for the perfect transeasonal alternative.

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remus price on request 01543 483777

AiGle £39 01608 813862

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

Joules £20.85 01858 435261

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september 2013 | Gent | footweAr | 24

FOOT PATROL Footwear takes a dandy approach this season, with statement designs, bold colours and heritage styles updated with a modern twist.

—  J SHO E S Focusing on classic silhouettes this season, J Shoes welcomes back perennial favourites such as the Charlie brogue and Monarch chukka boot, updated with new colourways and embossed sole designs. New styles, meanwhile, include the Troop, a double-strap monk shoe; the Lancaster, a fresh brogue model; and the Monarch 2, a chukka boot with white contrasting laces and rubber top piece. Finally, the low-cut Oxford shoe is offered in accents of bright blue laces and stitching detail, with rubber inserts for the leather sole available in tortoise shell effect, bright blue, white and yellow.

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 J O U LE S Instantly recognisable lifestyle label Joules continues its success through 2013 with one of its strongest footwear collections to date. With a strong focus on its wholesale division, offering a variety of footwear styles – as well as apparel and accessories – has been key for the brand.

Wellington boots remain into spring/summer 2014, ideal for festivals and camping, while the new season sees the introduction of Poolers, a stylish waterproof rubber loafer available in three colours.

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 HU SH PUPPI ES

 LOAK E Traditional English shoemaker Loake focuses on a more refined look this season with features including natural edges, “split reverse” welts, coloured suedes, two-tone uppers and terracotta rubber soles. The mainline Loake collection includes key styles such as the Lincoln tassel loafer and the classic Fearnley brogue in navy suede with contrasting stitching. Meanwhile, highlights in the brand’s premium offering – Loake 1880 – include the punched toe-cap Derby boot and the double-monk style Cannon in a rich tan suede.

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Iconic footwear label Hush Puppies looks to change shoppers’ perceptions of the casual shoe this season, reinventing it to work across playful, dressy or laid-back moments. The latest offering is split into three ranges. Clear Water features clean, simple lines, 50s and 60s retro graphic prints, colour blocking and textural mixes. California Dreaming sees organic weaves, rich material mixes, colour accents and handcrafted details. Colour, meanwhile, takes its inspiration from Hush Puppies’ heritage and design architecture.

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september 2013 | Gent | footweAr | 25

 AI GLE French heritage label Aigle injects a dose of colour into its spring/summer 2014 offering with a palette comprising spicy tones, including carmine red, paprika and cumin. In contrast, topaz, slate blues, jade and lavender sit alongside to create a bold summer collection across both its menswear and womenswear. A new style this season is the America Mid Cvs in printed camouflage, as well as the classic America moccasin with a seawater-resistant leather construction.

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 SW I M S A popular choice among fashion-focused retailers in the UK, Swims’ growing popularity is due to its simple but effective water-resistant loafer concept. The new season sees the introduction of a variety of colourways, including orange, green, petrol and lime. Print is also key for spring/summer 2014, with lace, penny and flat-front loafers available in camouflage in a variety of hues. The collection also welcomes the introduction of the Luca sneaker, which is seamless and features breathable, anti-bacterial nylon mesh.

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 RO C K PO RT Rockport’s spring/summer 2014 collection is split into three trends this season. No Borders comprises a high-tech, athletic-inspired walking shoe, with the incorporation of truWALK architecture for a super-flexible, lightweight sole to help mimic the foot’s natural walking motion. Personal Journey, meanwhile, features the casual walking shoe, updated in a series of bright hues on the sole including yellows, limes and reds. Finally, the Revival trend sees the brand return to the 70s, with deconstructed, loose-fit leather chukka boots in light blue and grey standing as the highlight of the season.

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 ANT HO NY M I LE S

 GOVAN ORIGINALS Scottish footwear label Govan Originals has teamed up with Harris Tweed Hebrides for spring/summer 2014. The partnership has initially seen the launch of a capsule collection comprising four exclusive tweeds featured on Govan’s signature Logie 88 model – with each pair of handmade shoes displaying the internationally recognised Harris Tweed orb mark. “We’re very excited by the long-term potential of this collaboration,” says Kevin Sefton, co-founder of Govan Originals. “It’s a natural fit between two brands with strong heritage, attention to detail and recognisable quality, applied in very contemporary ways.”

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The fourth collection from new footwear label on the block Anthony Miles moves into a much more casual direction than in previous seasons. Retaining its signature sole style, the brand’s spring/summer 2014 collection sees a crisp white EVA section with a single strip of corrugated rubber, providing the colour contrast expected of the label. In addition, the brand has introduced a new brightly marbled-effect serrated sole. With current stockists including yoox, El Corte Ingles and Robinsons, Anthony Miles is set for a promising future.

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HEART AND SOLE The hottest trends in footwear this spring/summer 2014 buying season.

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PHOTOGRAPHS: BEN STATHAM 07855 471388 — UNLESS STATED OTHERWISE, ALL PRICES ARE WHOLESALE —

Azor £39.50 020 8773 7800

bAse london £28.92 020 8532 0000

bArker price on request 01604 810387

GucinAri £32.95 0121 4555 7577

TONE ON TONE A favourite in gents’ wardrobes, brogues return for spring/summer 2014 updated with contrasting colour panels and textural mixes. while tone-on-tone designs are prevalent, striking monochrome and brown and cream styles create an alternative for the more adventurous shopper.

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ikon £30.50 02476 324670

Geox £42.90 020 3227 0502

BASE LONDON PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8773 7800

ROCKPORT £39.60 0161 419 2659

LOTUS £23.91 01604 593600

ANATOMIC & CO £42.95 0844 800 2370

SOLE FOOd Adding a subtle touch of colour to footwear collections this season, soles – including rubber textured treads – stand out from the crowd in a blend of deep reds and purples, alongside more pop shades such as turquoise, orange and apple green. Expect co-ordinating laces to tie this trend together.

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JUSTIN REECE PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8809 7052

CHATHAM MARINE £24.60 01392 207062

pAllAdium £23.65 07585 300402

inkkAs £30 07828 858967

k swiss £22.75 01458 445502

buGAtti price on request 01604 686802

SINGING THE BLUES shades of blue dominate contemporary footwear this spring/summer 2014, with the signature menswear colour updated in fresher, bolder hues. crisp white detailing gives this trend a sports vibe, while snakeskin-like textures offer a more luxe appeal.

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bAmboo A £32 020 8773 7800

superGA £18.75 07506 748728

JoHn wHite £39.90 01933 410584

front £23.90 020 8773 7800

ikon £36 02476 324670

Geox £40.85 020 3227 0502

LOAFING AROUND A wardrobe essential, the tassel loafer is seeing a resurgence of late with menswear making a return to sartorial dressing. following the trend for all things Great Gatsby, the tassel loafer moves from premium woven leather styles through to more casual suede designs in summer tones of nude and pistachio.

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bArker price on request 01604 810387

pArAdiGmA price on request 0035 1225074153

jamesc@ascot-int.net T: 0208 773 7800

Kingfisher House, Restmor Way Hackbridge, Surrey, SM6 7AH 0208 773 7800 sales@bambooa.com

september 2013 | Gent | reView | 32

MODA S/S 14: THE TRENDS MWB scoured the halls of last month’s Moda Gent to discover the key themes and products from the mainstream market for spring/summer 2014.

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 C HE C K M AT E Bright checks gave the shirting category a bolder alternative this season, with statement shirts in a series of vivid colourways at the forefront of most collections. Contrasting checks in slimmer cuts, as seen at Seidensticker and Eterna, catered for the more fashion-conscious man, while loose-fit options at the likes of Viyella and Campione proved popular options throughout the show.

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 cAmpione

 eternA

 ViyellA

 seidensticker

 U R BAN SAFAR I

 brAx

 cAmel ActiVe

 fArAH 1920

 florentino

 double two

 Jupiter

 mAddox street

While safari is certainly not a new movement in menswear, spring/summer 2014 sees a smarter touch added to the returning trend. Versatile and easy to wear, urban safari welcomed subtle detailing as spotted on Florentino’s khaki jacket and Brax’s bomber, while surface prints moved away from the obvious camouflage with vivid leaf prints seen at both Farah 1920 and Camel Active.

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 PAISLEY PRINTS Last month, MWB highlighted teardrop bandana style paisley prints as a growing trend among the younger market. The mainstream labels, meanwhile, welcomed paisley back for yet another season, this time in all-over intricate patterns seen at Jupiter, Maddox Street and Seidensticker, while Double Two created a statement shirt with contrasting paisley print sleeves.

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 seidensticker

september 2013 | Gent | reView | 33

 F I SHE R M AN’ S F R I E ND

 florentino

 Gti nAuticAl

 morley

 stAte of Art

 Gibson london

 mAddox street

 skopes

What’s summer without nautical influences in menswear?

Traditional Breton stripes with a strong naval heritage remained a key focus for brands at this season’s Moda, with brands such as Morley, State of the Art and GTI Nautical reworking the trend with varying stripe widths.

Spanish label Florentino, meanwhile, reinvented the nautical classic, teaming it with tailored check blazer models.

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 SARTO R I AL SU M M E R With gents turning their hand to a more sartorial way of dressing, the tailoring industry as a whole continues to experience a resurgence.

Statement boating blazers, for example, were spotted at brands such as Maddox Street, Gibson London, Skopes and The Label, all presenting preppy inspired striped options.

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 tHe lAbel

 O U T E R SHE LL

 bAileys

 cAmel ActiVe

 douGlAs

 nAGAno

 fyncH HAtton

 Gti nAuticAl

 rAGinG bull

From windcheaters to heavyweight tech coats, one thing that remained prevalent in the mainstream outerwear category was block colouring.

Championed across the board, from designer runway shows to the high street, coloured outerwear is here to stay, with bold hues including apple green at Baileys, orange at Camel Active and red at Douglas and Nagano.

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 SPO RT I NG LI F E Following on from last year’s sporting celebrations, men’s casualwear continued to favour relaxed sports-inspired wardrobe additions. While the cable-knit cricket jumper was seen at the likes of State of Art, the ever-popular rugby inspired polo made its return at Raging Bull, while striped long-sleeved jersey options featured at Fynch Hatton and GTI Nautical.

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 stAte of Art

SEPTEMBER 2013 | DENIM & STREET | CONTENTS | 35

D E N I M

&

S T R E E T

UP a NOTCH Spring/summer 2014 sees the launch of new label Notch London. Born out of a passion for clean, modernist design, the fledging menswear brand is a mix of easy-to-wear shirting, soft jerseys, denim and outerwear.

Highlights of the inaugural collection include indigo jersey sweatshirts, lightweight M65 jackets, graphic T-shirts and a denim work jacket. Silhouettes, meanwhile, are fitted for a smarter look, cutting away excess fabric and bulk. one area the brand has put a strong focus on is its shirting offer, with a wide variety of styles featuring a reduced collar size for a sharper and more contemporary shape, while its denim collection features slim, skinny, tapered and standard fit models. Simplistic and timeless, the label is looking to enter a number of select independents over the next year, with sales dealt with by Zone Two. —

36

Product news

44

Select talking

46

Urban jungle

48

London’s finest

50

Gallery

What’s happening in denim and street

38

In-season stock

MWB gets the lowdown from some of the key exhibitors at Moda Select

Animal instinct

40

Street style

42

Le coq crows

Highlighting the surf, sports and streetwear brands at Flip

Denim and street footwear brands take to the stage Profiling footwear label Le Coq Sportif

Picks from London’s key show Jacket Required The labels making waves in Copenhagen

september 2013 | denim & street | product | 36

RADAR

PRODUCT NEWS

Spotlighting style.

Inside menswear.

M OVE R S AND M AK E R S Drawing on its working class heritage for spring/summer 2014, denim specialist Lee Cooper references Makers – craftsmen and women who put their own stamp on the world by creating goods from scratch – with the finer details being central to this collection.

Metalwork in rose gold and bronze-enamelled buttons add a work, antique feel to the key denimwear. Key looks within the collection include a lightweight collarless jacket with short sleeves, teamed with a graphic striped tee, and soft-washed denims.

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SURF LIQUOR estAblisHed: 2012 — History: Founded by Jonny Cosserat, following a road trip across California, the brand draws its inspiration from the laid-back way of Cali life with a vintage-inspired sport and streetwear collection.

— siGnAture style: Garment-dyed and sun-bleached T-shirts and sweats.

Launching into the UK market for the spring/summer 2014 buying season, Surf Liquor is a fresh, Californian-inspired streetwear label, focusing on tops and outerwear.

Offering tees, sweats and shirts to begin with, this inaugural collection for the UK takes its inspiration from a variety of subjects, from the early Californian skate and surf scene to pop art, AC/DC, Palm Springs, piers and old-school liquor stores.

Looking forward into autumn/winter 2014, the collection is set to expand to include garment dyed cotton canvas and twill jackets and overshirts. With a cross between old-school 80s skate and contemporary urban design, the brand is also launching a limited-edition capsule collection of 25 handmade and individually stamped retro skate boards in collaboration with Satta Skates.

With the average price point standing at £16 for a T-shirt, £22 for shirts and £28 for sweatshirts, Surf Liquor caters for the price-conscious shopper looking for clothing with a point of difference in wash, finish and attention to detail. www.thesurfliquor.com —

C U LT U R E C LU B Smiley Company, the brand which is renowned for its signature yellow smiley emotion, unveils its latest collection for sub-line Smiley London.

Inspired by the electronic beats of Britain in the 80s, the latest collection features, of course, the smiley character, teamed with colourful urban-inspired prints across both women’s and menswear.

With a store located in the heart of East London in Shoreditch’s Boxpark, Smiley has created a retail destination with an interior designed to replicate an 80s nightclub – brushed corrugated metal walls, metal bar clothes rails, stage rigging and a DJ booth all feature inside.

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september 2013 | denim & street | product | 37

ON TREND Seasonal extras: Wallets

1

2

3

4

5

1: QUIKSILVER £4 020 7392 4020 2: PENFIELD £7.20 020 7720 5050 3: WEEKEND OFFENDER £15 01332 342068 4: CONVERSE price on request 020 8731 3500 5: WESC £18 01271 865600

NAT U R AL SE LE C T I O N DE NI M For spring/summer 2014, Natural Selection Denim presents its first foray into ready-to-wear, with a cohesive collection reflecting the brand’s minimal, understated design aesthetic.

Drawing inspiration from the history of the Dutch East India Company, a chartered company established in 1602, military cuts and naval silhouettes feature throughout. A standout piece is the Reverse Trench, which is both functional and innovative thanks to one side fabricated in linen and the other a formal bonded cotton, allowing for both a weatherproof form and smarter look.

The Kimono Parka, meanwhile, is made from four ounce waxed cotton, which offers the wearer ease of movement as well as a light, protective layer. Although this marks a change in direction for Natural Selection Denim, the collection remains true to its denim roots with a focus on utilising ethical fabrics and techniques from recycled materials to sustainable washes.

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Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

BRAND TO WATCH

ICHIBAN CLOTHING Established in the underground streetwear scene, spring/summer 2014 sees Ichiban Clothing present a collection that not only encompasses street design culture, but also trend themes and techniques from the young fashion market.

Designed to highlight the “brash hypocrisy of our consumerism and the simple childlike addition society has to nostalgic imagery”, the collection features a range of playful, colour-filled, graphic prints with cartoon characters such as Top Cat, alongside black and white photograph prints including the likes of Run DMC. Appealing to core streetwear fans, as well as the mainstream trend-driven shopper, the range has been created with no gender in mind, catering for both the womenswear and menswear market. Offering highquality finishing techniques, all carried out in the UK, the majority of the collection features organically sourced cotton.

Represented by Four Six Four Agencies, and currently stocked in the likes of Asos and Urban Outfitters, as well as select independent retailers including Serene Order in Solihull and The Forum in Swindon, the brand is looking towards international expansion for the new season, with Europe and the US key markets. www.ichibanclothing.com —

estAblisHed: 2007 — siGnAture style: Launched six years ago, Ichiban Clothing is a British streetwear label that encompasses and explores street culture, — History: Imagery of ironic children’s television characters are key to the brand’s aesthetic, combined with original graphics.

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september 2013 | denim & street | product | 38

conVerse price on request 020 8731 3500

wesc £12 01271 865600

two AnGle £47.50 07513 950345

ANIMAL INSTINCT Animal print takes a predatory stance for autumn/winter 2013, making its way across apparel, accessories and footwear.

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luke £17 01869 366580

AnerkJendt £16 07792 415693

mi-pAc £10.40 020 7739 7620

sprAyGround price on request 01202 540440

Armistice £29.30 www.Armistice.fr rocAweAr £42.89 07966 934251

Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

www.gucinari.co.uk

DEDICATED TO STYLE

september 2013 | denim & street | footweAr | 40

STREET STyLE Focusing on contemporary, street and urban footwear brands, MWB highlights the news, trends and developments buyers can expect for spring/summer 2014.

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 NI CHOL AS DE AK I NS Established over 20 years ago, Nicholas Deakins returns for another summer season with one of its strongest footwear collections yet. Featuring a number of low-profile styles, including new variations on traditional hand-stitched moccasins and espadrilles, the brand also emplys a sportier angle, taking inspiration from English football and terrace culture. As always, the focus of the collection is its use of premium quality fabrics including suede and soft leathers.

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 C U SHE Spring/summer 2014 sees casual footwear label Cushe join forces with surf brand Hoffman California Fabrics – renowned for its authentic Hawaiian and Balinese prints. Hand-selected prints from Hoffman’s 800-strong archive are utilised with Cushe’s signature slip-on style, spanning both women’s and menswear. “Cushe has always been about the coastal way of life; our heritage and functionality were born on the beach,” says Ken Taylor, global marketing manager for Cushe. “It’s great to be working with the innovative legends at Hoffman.”

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 VO LC O M Last season saw lifestyle label Volcom unveil its first closed-toe footwear collection, following its successful sandal category. Featuring a range of footwear staples such as sneakers and boots, in a variety of fabrics including waterproof leather and classic canvas, the new line spans both menswear and womenswear. “Looking to the collection, we’ve built upon the success of our open-toe products by offering on-trend styling at key price points,” says Jason Graham, senior director of footwear. “Subtle nods to angles and asymmetry have kept the styles fun, yet unmistakably Volcom.”

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 O ’ NE I LL The new season sees Californian surfwear label O’Neill launch its second full footwear range, divided into three series. Cali focuses on high-quality leathers, printed cottons and vulcanised constructions, while the finer details include rubber toecaps and hand-stitched details. Casual, meanwhile, has been designed for a day at the beach, with soft full-grain leathers, hand-woven leather trims and two-tone cow suedes key. Finally, Capture utilises bold colours and creative prints, with styles including Heat, which blends technical sportswear with surf elements.

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september 2013 | denim & street | footweAr | 41

 BASE LO NDO N With a playful edge added to its design ethos for 2014, Base London draws its inspiration from Fun at the Fair, with colour a key component in the spring/summer offering.

Flashes of sole colour are incorporated with a series of lightweight suede uppers, while smarter leather uppers are combined with contrasting white gripping rubber sole units. A selection of contemporary brogues and Oxford styles form a diverse range of options.

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 HE NR I LLOYD Heritage label Henri Lloyd presents a traditionally British collection for spring/summer 2014, encapsulating the marine history while also ensuring a fashion-focused range. Headlining the men’s footwear collection is the Kervene boot (pictured), featuring hand-painted natural crepe soles with soft suede uppers.

Luxe finishes, meanwhile, can be seen in the collection’s Seaton Derby style, which incorporates suede uppers and pig skin linings.

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 F LO SSY Continuing to introduce new prints and colourways each season, footwear brand Flossy is looking to increase its European presence for spring/summer 2014. While its popular classic and coloured sole options remain, as well as its camo and Aztec finishes, Flossy welcomes on board a series of floral prints, including Hawaiian sunsets and palm trees. Jungle, meanwhile, is a key theme, with zebra and leopard prints in this category continuing, for the first time, through to the sole.

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 T I M BE R L AND

 I NK K AS A new name to the UK market, Inkkas is a young, socially conscious brand that sells handcrafted shoes made from authentic South-American textiles.

Handmade by local artisans in Lima, Peru, the label also donates a portion of every sale to help protect the Amazon rainforest and its inhabitants. Since launching earlier this year, the brand has seen rapid success with stockists in the US, Europe and Asia.

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As always, functionality plays a pivotal role in Timberland’s latest footwear offering, with lightweight waterproof fabrics designed with a clean, contemporary feel. Building on the brand’s heritage, the range includes heritage styles, which have been cleverly reworked for the new urban customer – the man who leads an active lifestyle but is still trend-conscious. A stand-out design is the Earthkeepers Bradstreet, which has the look of a casual shoe with sneaker performance. It uses the label’s trademark SensorFlex™ tri-layer technology, which provides flexibility and independent suspension.

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september 2013 | denim & street | profile | 42

LE COq CROWS Le Coq Sportif celebrated its 130th anniversary in 2012, and opened its first ever UK flagship shop in Covent Garden’s Seven Dials this summer – part of a repositioning strategy for the UK market to also help grow its wholesale account base. Clearly plenty to shout about, as Tom Bottomley discovered from the brand’s UK and Ireland country manager, Mike Routledge.

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Le Coq Sportif is one of those French sports brands, well, the French sports brand really, that we are certainly well aware of here. Not least because Bradley Wiggins became the first Brit to ever win the Tour de France in 2012 wearing the yellow jersey emblazoned with the Le Coq Sportif “cockerel” logo. Quite a year for the brand then, as it was also its 130th anniversary year, and the first time it had sponsored the famous race – and supplied the leaders’ jerseys – for 37 years. And who’d have bet on it being the Brits again in 2013, with Chris Froome collecting the winner’s medal, again wearing the yellow Le Coq Sportif jersey?

It’s now opened a 2,000 sq ft flagship shop on the corner of Earlham Street and Mercer

Street, right on the Seven Dials in London’s Covent Garden. A statement of intent indeed that it now means business in the UK, though it’s through growing its wholesale business where the strategy lies, not opening further retail stores.

UK and Ireland country manager Mike Routledge says, “It was always part of our overall plan to open a flagship store in London as part of the brand’s repositioning strategy in the UK. Once we had secured distribution within strategic retail partners, the next step was to secure the right site for a standalone store. Covent Garden’s Seven Dials is one of London’s most influential shopping destinations and has the ideal mix of retail adjacencies, along with a vibrant theatre and restaurant culture. It’s an ideal fit for the brand.”

The shop design follows the concept of the other flagship stores in Paris, Milan and Barcelona.

The interior is clean and uncluttered, allowing the product to be the star of the show. Part of the brief was also to have certain special features unique to the London store. For this, they worked with the Wilson Brothers – who have previously worked for brands including Nike and Diesel – who produced the cash desk, along with an eye-catching cycling-inspired installation, which hangs in the aperture between the ground floor and the basement.

A big push product-wise right now is on the “retro running” shoes story. Says Routledge, “From a footwear perspective, retro running is certainly a key area for us currently. With a

september 2013 | denim & street | profile | 43

“It was always part of our overall plan to open a flagship store in London as part of the brand’s repositioning strategy in the UK”

130-year history, we have a rich back catalogue across a number of sports, be it cycling, tennis or football, but running is our current focus.” Apparel sales around the Tour de France have also been particularly strong this year, both on jersey replica and lifestyle items. “Our legitimacy in this area gives us a good platform for cycling-inspired apparel products, too. The store features all our major product stories, including the first range of performance cycling apparel – launched this year.”

Back to the footwear, and spring/summer 2014 will see Le Coq Sportif extend its retro running line, with styles such as Eclat, Flash and LCSR 100 gaining wider distribution. “We will also dip into our rich court heritage with the launch of designs including Dominator and Noah Comp, which will launch in our top-tier sneaker distribution,” says Routledge.

Going back in time, tennis giant yannick Noah took the French Open crown at the Roland Garros Stadium wearing Le Coq Sportif in 1983. And, going back even earlier, in 1975, Arthur Ashe sported Le Coq Sportif tennis apparel (though his trainers were most likely Adidas) when he defeated fellow American Jimmy Connors to become the first black player to win Wimbledon.

From an apparel perspective, the Tour de France will dominate again in spring/summer 2014, with the Grande Depart (the start of the famous race) in Leeds and three stages in the UK, culminating in London for the first time. It will be massive for the brand, especially from a UK perspective. “The world’s third biggest sporting event will once again be on everyone’s radar,” says Routledge. “And we will once again produce the leaders’ jerseys, along with replica and Tour de France inspired lifestyle ranges.” With cycling in general such a growth area in the UK market, undoubtedly given a massive boost by Wiggins’ victory last year, as well as Froome’s this year, it seems a great time for Le Coq Sportif to seize the moment, and get all the press and media attention which inevitably provides a surge in sales.

“And the flagship store gives us the opportunity to showcase our product stories in their entirety,” says Routledge. “We can display the complete brand message and help to support our wholesale business.” Le Coq Sportif’s current account is a mix between lifestyle and cycling accounts. “you can find our trainers in Hanon, Footpatrol, Crooked Tongues, Size? and Schuh,” says Routledge. “And our apparel is in Oi Poloi, Asos and Urban Outfitters, with our cycling

product stocked in Harrods, Kinoko Cycles, Cycle Surgery, Wiggle and Evans.”

Despite the big push on cycling-related products, and now the “retro runners”, before Wiggins won the famous cycle race in the world wearing Le Coq Sportif, it was probably as far back as the 80s when the brand had massive global recognition – and that was through football.

Perhaps surprisingly, it was France’s number one sports brand – and one of the oldest sports labels in the world no less, having been founded in Romilly-sur-Seine (a part of the Champagne region called the Aube) in 1882 – which supplied the Italians with their strip when they won their third World Cup in 1982. But much more vivid to most Englishmen old enough to remember will be Argentina knocking England out of the World Cup in the 1986 quarter final, aided by Maradona’s infamous Hand of God goal. Argentina wore Le Coq Sportif, and went on to win the tournament.

Painful indeed. A re-issue of that Argentina strip would certainly not go down well here.

Le Coq Sportif also supplied the French Olympic team in 1960 in Rome and, going back further – to 1939 – Le Coq Sportif apparently invented the “sweat suit”, which launched at the New york World Fair. The French apparently dubbed it “the Sunday uniform.”

The point being, the label clearly has a rich heritage and archive to explore what would be the envy of many a sports brand. While the “sporty rooster” logo might not be anywhere near as famous – or indeed loved – here as it is in its native France, it’s certainly got plenty to keep us clucking for more.

SEPTEMBER 2013 | GENT | SELECT | 44

SELECT SHOW TaLK The mood was “cautiously optimistic” at Moda’s Select platform this season. Tom Bottomley did the rounds to get the feedback.

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MORTEN SIERON, SaLES MaNaGER, RaINS a lot of retailers seem to be talking about Rains. How did the brand start?

It was basically three guys from Denmark in their late 20s who studied fashion, but didn’t want to take a “fashion” route as such. They wanted to find a gap in the market and produce something with a functionality.

It rains a lot in Denmark, as much as 120 days a year, so that’s where the idea came from. It was launched in 2012, but we’re already selling in around 10 countries and to around 500 retailers, so it’s seen rapid growth. It’s sold as a stock programme, so there is a lot of repeat business.

What’s special about the fabric and price?

The fabric is 50 per cent PU and 50 per cent PT. It’s 100 per cent waterproof and the seams are heat sealed and taped. There are under-arm vents and holes underneath the back storm flap so air can get in. Prices range from £70 to £100 retail and that’s working on a 2.8 mark-up.

How many different types of outerwear are there?

There are four core pieces – a short jacket, long jacket, an old-school poncho – perfect for the festival season – and a belted women’s jacket, which has more of a tailored cut. We have plain bright colours, two colour jackets and a camouflage version. We like to give the retailers different options throughout the season.

What else is new?

We’ve launched a limited collection for this autumn/winter of three other pieces, including a bomber jacket version with a detachable hood, which will retail for £95. And we’ve done an old-school fisherman-style classic wellie, as well as some great new waterproof bags and wallets. We’ve had a really good response from UK retailers, and we appeal to a wide range of retailers. There should be something for everyone.

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FRaSER HaMILTON, UK SaLES MaNaGER, SUPERGa aNd K-Way (THE GLd GROUP) Would you say the two brands complement each other selling them side by side?

Yes, they seem to go hand in hand. It’s the first time we’ve brought K-Way here, and it’s worked really well. The two brands come out of the same distribution company in Italy.

Although K-Way is a French label, the Italians have adopted it as their own. The Italians bought it six or seven years ago, and it’s now more design-focused. K-Way is the original pac-a-mac, dating back to the 50s.

What would you say is the appeal of K-Way? It’s not just “fashion”; it’s functional – with taped seams, and it’s also wind-resistant. It stands up to the tech spec of, say, a North Face jacket. And the branding is strong, with the coloured taping on the front zip acting as an instantly recognisable “brand tag”. We’re keeping it to the top 30 accounts in the UK at the moment. The most basic jacket retails at £55, then it goes to a fully waterproof version, which is £80, and the more fashion-driven pieces come with a bigger premium. A camouflage hooded jacket with orange lining sells at £95. We’ve also got lined versions, which retail for £180, and a M-65style field jacket design, which can go up to £250 depending on the fabric and finish.

How is Superga business in the UK? The last eight months have been tough for everyone, especially with canvas shoes. But we’re still on a growth spurt, and the biggest growth area for us is with independents. Independent business seems to be buoyant at the moment, compared to the national accounts, which has been a surprise. There has been a lot of new of business as well, which is heartening given the state of the economy.

—

september 2013 | Gent | select | 45

ELLIS FRANKS, OWNER, JEKyLL & HyDE How is trade for you this season?

It’s building well for us, but mainly in the North of England at the moment. We’re obviously trying to expand it, and we’re doing a lot with mail-order companies – such as Jacamo – especially with the bigger sizes.

There are a lot of young guys who are bigger these days, but they still want branded merchandise. When they do make purchases, the retailers and brands catering to them seem to get a lot of loyalty and repeat business. The retail price point is also extremely important, and our shirts wholesale for £16-£20.

Where are you making the shirts?

In Turkey and Portugal. Not in the Far East because of the lead times.

We’re trying to keep as close to the market as we possibly can in order to fulfil what the retailers need in this difficult time. We sell forward order, but also from stock so we can replenish quickly.

We hear your grandson is set to start working for you? yes, indeed. Sam, who’s 19, is going to be “on the road” full-time, rather than us having agents. It’s taking it back to the old-school way, and he’ll be learning a few of the old man’s tricks. I think it’s important that you get out, rather than just sitting in a showroom waiting for people to turn up. Independents are limited time-wise, and probably working six days a week, and I don’t think they get out as much as they used to – so we’re taking it back to how it was in my youth, and going to them.

—

JUAN ACEVEDO, OWNER AND DESIGNER, EAST CLUB Where and when did you launch the brand, and what’s your production ethic?

We started in London’s Shoreditch, which is where I live. I was previously in Hong Kong. We only launched the brand last year and we make 95 per cent of it in Europe – in Portugal, France, Italy and the UK. All the fabrics are super high-quality and everything has a lot of detail. It’s all quite classic, but we’ve injected a lot of colour for spring/summer 2014. The winter collection is less colourful – it’s more classic British but with interesting linings on jackets and waistcoats.

Where have your sales been coming from to date?

We’ve previously been selling from our website, www.eastclub.co.uk, but we now have a showroom in London and we’re looking to find the right wholesale accounts – hence us showing here for the first time. We do already sell to some shops in Hong Kong, because I know a lot of buyers there, and we also supply a few shops in Latin America. We’ve picked up a handful of accounts for the UK at Select.

We’re also about to do a pop-up shop off Covent Garden’s Seven Dials, on Monmouth Street, which should help to raise our profile.

—

CHRISTINA TILFORD, DESIGNER, THE BRITISH BELT COMPANy Where has the brand sprung from, and what reaction have you had to your collection?

It’s our first time showing here, and the reaction has been really positive. The brand has only been established for around a year and a half, and it’s part of a family owned manufacturer founded in 1946 called Arnold Wills & Co, which is based in Rutland – England’s smallest county. All the belts and braces are made there.

The belts range from £10 to £20 wholesale. We’ve previously just done private label, which we continue to do. We’re aiming to target the American market, and are showing in New york and Las Vegas.

The bags really stand out, are they made at the UK factory as well?

No, they’re made in India, but the fabrics are all British, such as Millerain and Harris Tweed, and we use waxed cotton by Halley Stevensons in Dundee. The bags are very labour-intensive, so labour costs would be too much in the UK. A Harris Tweed satchel currently wholesales at £73.50, and we’re looking to offer a 2.6 mark-up. We also have a growing offer of “tech accessories” and gift products such as a hip flask in a Harris Tweed holder. It wholesales for £8, which is pretty good. Everything is in stock, and it’s great product for the Christmas market.

—

PAUL BATISTA, SALES MANAGER, PETER WERTH What’s your view of the Moda show?

Select is very good for us, and it’s where a lot of business is actually written. I suspect that in terms of numbers, the footfall was down this season, as it has everywhere, but the quality was there. Quality over quantity. We had good leads and have written healthy orders with decent stores.

How is it going with the brand in general?

The brand is making traction. We’ve spent the last couple of years really concentrating on the product and working on our adjacencies.

We’re now selling to stores such as the Fenwick Group – sitting alongside brands including Paul Smith, Boss and Hackett. And those buyers all come here, as do buyers from Coes. So it’s important for us to be here. It’s actually as important for us to be here as it is to be somewhere like Jacket Required. you started with the brand just on the footwear side, now you sell the clothing too, but how is the footwear doing?

Footwear is becoming 25-30 per cent of our business, and this show has a big footwear catchment, so it’s very relevant. We’ll write something like £500,000 with Schuh this year, and we’ve signed up to supply some 20 stores with Jones Bootmaker. The likes of Sole Trader also come here, so we need to be here – with both categories.

—

september 2013 | denim & street | flip | 46

URBAN JUNGLE MWB discovered what the key labels at surf, sport and street show Flip had in store for spring/summer 2014.

—

ANIMAL Taking a look back into its archives for spring/summer 2014, Flip regular Animal presented a collection of photographic print tees, board shorts and hoodies. Signature styles included round-neck T-shirts with graphic-print fronts, teamed with co-ordinating shorts, as well as smarter beach options with horizontal striped shirts in a series of subdued pastel tones.

—

BILLABONG One design element that was key to surfwear label Billabong’s latest offer was the tropical palm tree print. A strong print across the menswear sector as a whole this season, the palm tree motif was incorporated into Billabong’s T-shirts, hooded tops and shorts, set against a more toned-down colour palette than seen in previous seasons. Detailing, meanwhile, came in the form of denim pockets and contrasting red button-hole stitching.

—

BLEND Making its Flip debut, Danish label Blend presented both its womenswear and menswear offer. Capturing the simplistic design Scandinavians are renowned for, the brand updated its spring/summer 2014 offer with a series of prints – including intricate checks and leopard print. Vintage washes, meanwhile, were key, with distressed finishes found on T-shirts and worn surface textures spotted on outerwear.

—

september 2013 | denim & street | flip | 47

GARCIA Denim specialist Garcia continued its success in the UK with a return to Flip. Featuring a range of denim at the core of its latest collection – with vintage washes prominent throughout – there were also updates in the form of chambray shirts and colour-pop chino shorts, complete with turn-ups and T-shirts in a series of bold colourways.

—

LINDBERGH Danish menswear label Lindbergh made its Flip debut this season with a trend-focused collection of versatile separates. Highlights included a cobalt blue unstructured blazer with white buttons, dense floral print button-down shirts, tailored shorts featuring a quirky origami bird print and raw-edged tees.

—

RED SOUL Offering a complete wardrobe collection, casual menswear label Red Soul returned to this season’s show with its Double H Agency stablemates. Taking into consideration the unpredictable weather in the UK market, the brand offered not only a series of Hawaiian-print short-sleeved shirts, but a number of crew-neck sweatshirts and lightweight knits, perfect for trans-seasonal dressing.

—

SANTA CRUz Continuing to do what it does best, skate and surfwear label Santa Cruz returned to Flip with a quirky collection of board shorts, beach shirts and three-quarter length sleeved jersey tops. Another fan of the tropical palm tree motif, the brand updated this popular trend with the addition of its cartoon-style logo within the print, while sunset photographic transfers created statement shorts for the new season.

—

september 2013 | denim & street | reView | 48

LONDON’S FINEST Jacket Required’s biggest show to date meant a strong line-up of established brands and new labels rubbing shoulders and creating a genuine buzz for buyers hitting the capital. Tom Bottomley shows the diversity of exhibitors with six stellar picks.

—  STOW & SO N All the way from Madrid and a first time showing in London, Stow & Son is only three years in the making, but the shoes are all handmade in Spain and Portugal and the quality is there for all to see. The buffalo leather boat shoe with the natural crepe sole is the bestseller, set to retail at £100-£110, and there are some great Hawaiian-print lace-up espadrilles. The brand is new to Blighty, with no UK accounts before the show. The name derives from an old shipbuilding company, though one that sounds more British than Spanish. There is also a more premium element to the line, with Goodyear welted construction and Vibram sole units. Very easy to wear footwear with very much its own take on key trends.

—

 ESSE M PL ARE

 T WO SQUAR E D

Essemplare, from Italy, now in its seventh season and with key accounts including Harvey Nichols, Flannels and Shop at Bluebird, has price points around 15 per cent lower than CP Company and Stone Island – but with similar design hallmarks. Little wonder, because the designer, Alessandro Pungetti, was head of design at CP Company for some nine years back in the glory days of the brand. The quality, treatments, washes and dying processes are second to none, as you would expect from a brand utilising manufacturer Mannifattura Riese, which has produced quality Italian garments since 1961.

—

A new commercial label for the UK from Steve Atkinson, the man who created Firetrap and who has been the designer behind Gio Goi in recent years. Along with his business partner, who is based in Australia, and who started up Two Squared three seasons ago, Atkinson’s eye for key trends is still evident, as is his unique take on things. Price points are keen, with a three times mark-up the appeal to retailers looking for on-trend branded product with a healthy margin. The brand has around 80 accounts Down Under but, as yet, not much here, so it could be perceived Atkinson’s got it “upside down”, but he assures us that will be addressed soon enough.

—

september 2013 | denim & street | reView | 49

 ELVI NE Established in 2001 in Sweden by skateboarder Daniel Mand, Elvine is named after Mand’s seamstress grandmother, and it soon “blew up” in Scandinavia, where it’s a household name. S/s 13 saw its UK launch, exclusively with Asos, but this autumn sees the brand going into 35 accounts. Outerwear is still the main driver of the line, though it has become more trend-led with an MA-1 style jacket and a baseball style jacket, for instance. But hooded jackets are the main claim to fame, as are goose-down jackets for autumn. For s/s 14 there are lighter-weight down jackets in more technical finishes. Every fabric is premium, but prices are competitive. There is also a collaboration on outerwear with rubberised mac specialist Grundens, the saviour of many a North Sea fisherman or rigger.

—

 SU I T

 PR PS

Danish label Suit is from Brand Progression’s stable and has built a reputation for on-trend pieces that are commercially priced. The s/s 14 line has moved on considerably, especially in terms of fabrics, and the branding has been cleaned right up. There are embroidered tees and woven jersey jacquards, which all look wearable for the young chap about town, as do the all-over micro-print and dip-dyed shorts. All-over prints can also be seen in shirting, including one featuring elephants that has been a key seller. Outerwear is Suit’s strongest category; jackets with more technical detailing and cuts at friendly price points.

—

With an entry retail price point of £195, PRPS is certainly in the premium bracket when it comes to denim. This was only its second outing at Jacket Required, but the reaction was positive. There is a core selvedge offer of around six washes, which has been carried over for a few seasons, and is apparently working well here as well as in the brand’s native New york. The tapered fit, Fury, is popular, while a camouflage design, developed especially for PRPS, has been utilised for a three-button blazer come work jacket, as well as a sweatshirt. And there is a leopard-print story, as well as an “indigo dot print” story with a great jacket with classy corduroy trims.

—

september 2013 | denim & street | reView | 50

GALLERy COPENHAGEN It may be an expensive city to visit, but Copenhagen’s Gallery show had some rich pickings when it came to brands exhibiting. Tom Bottomley selects six of the best.

—

F R E D PE R RY Fred Perry didn’t show in Berlin this season, just at the MAN show in Paris, and here at Gallery. Showing all three tiers of the offer, including the top-end Raf Simons line – relaunched two seasons ago after having two years off. A lot of the prints filter nicely off his mainline collection for s/s 14, and there is plenty of colour. “It’s a true collaboration in every sense,” says Reuben Billingham, longstanding Fred Perry Laurel Wreath development manager. The “bridging” Laurel Wreath collection is also looking directional, with lots of colour blocking and printed over-checks going on, and then there’s the new archive-based Re-issues line, which Billingham has been pushing for the brand to deliver for some time. Apparently that particular offer has meant Oi Polloi coming back on board with the brand, and it features some great remade 60s pieces, including a brilliant “made in England” longer version of a “monkey” jacket, and “made in Italy” merino knits.

—

E NC O R E C LOT HI NG A Swedish brand going since 1998, Encore has just one UK stockist at the moment, John Simons in London – which has bought into it for this autumn for the first time. It skipped Bread & Butter in Berlin this time round, so Gallery was the place to catch it. The outerwear is strong, as is the branding, and it’s one of a stable of labels from MnO Brands, which also has the Red Collar Project label, and is a distributor in Scandinavia for the likes of Baracuta and Woolrich. Encore started out with skate-influenced garments – particularly shirts, shorts and sweats, but now it’s more of a complete lifestyle offer. For the last three seasons it’s jackets that have become the major focus. The loop-back sweatshirts and indigo shirts are also good news, and prices are keen with jackets wholesaling around £60 – and it’s all made in Europe. A worthy alternative to Penfield, should you be looking for one.

—

BR I XTO L Brixtol is another Swedish brand, but ironically made in England – Birmingham – when it comes to the fine outerwear pieces as least, with knitwear made in Manchester. Co-owner and designer Gustav Kjellander who, along with his partner, used to work for G-Star as country manager in Sweden, says “made in the UK” stands for good quality, and that consumers are becoming more interested in where products are made. The name is a cross between Brixton and Bristol, and the branding is a subtle uncoloured quarter Union flag – but it works, because the outerwear in particular is really good. Also, Asos is the only UK retailer so far to buy into it, though it has a good spread of accounts in Scandinavia, Germany and France. It has a “street” feel, although some of the pieces are traditional, and there’s a nod to Mods with the parkas (apparently Bristol was once a big Mod hang out), and a decent M-A1 style jacket made in a fabric from the Swedish producers of airbags for Saab and Volvo. A safe bet, then.

—

september 2013 | denim & street | reView | 51

SOULL AND A very nice line indeed. Soulland currently supplies Good Hood and Shop at Bluebird in London. It also has a new UK agent in Ben Shilton at Rolling People Showroom, who has plenty of scope to grow its UK business, though they are keen that retailers fit the “right” profile. It started 15 years ago in Copenhagen, as a skate-influenced T-shirts and sweatshirts brand, but it is now much more developed with some great woven shirts, outerwear and fresh footwear, as it has grown up with its customer base. It showed at Jacket Required the time before the last one, but Gallery was the place to see it in all its glory this season.

Its very new – and first – shop in Copenhagen’s French Quarter also sells the likes of Our Legacy, Carven and Acne, as well as a Good Hood collaboration.

It’s 70/30 own-brand to bought-in labels and well worth a look should you be in town next time around.

—

U NI F O R M S F O R T HE DE DI C AT E D Celebrating five years in business this summer, Uniforms for the Dedicated (got to love that name) did its first fashion show in Stockholm at the end of August, having opened its first store there a year ago, and it seems to be a brand on the march to bigger and better things. Sold in the UK in the likes of Liberty and End Clothing, it’s certainly got its own “look”. New for s/s 14 is a “smoking fox” character – used to cool effect on a jacket lining. Sales manager Magnus Wiberg says, “The smoking fox is the definition of our end customer, because the fox is intelligent, charming and curious.” Fair enough. Sales are apparently going well in Japan, South Korea, Germany and the UK, and Wiberg reckons Uniforms is more of an international label than just a Swedish brand. Prints, meanwhile, are really strong for s/s 14, and generally the brand is going in a more tailored direction. Jackets start at £200 retail, going up to £400, and shirts sell for £100-£160.

—

KAR HU Great little story this one. It’s a footwear brand from Finland – since 1916. The branding on the side of the trainers looks like an M, but in actual fact was originally three stripes. Karhu apparently sold the three stripes trademark to Adidas in the 50s. On the stand the brand showed a Karhu running shoe from 1947, featuring the famous three stripes – two years prior to Adidas being formed. Brand manager Jukka Lehtinen says, “The trademark was sold for the modern day equivalent of €1,600, and two bottles of good whiskey!” Karhu also came up with the first air-cushioned trainers in the early 70s, three years before Nike. “In 1976 we commercialised it and we have all the patents,” says Lehtinen.

Karhu also supplied a lot of Finnish athletes for the Olympics, dating back to 1916, including middle and long-distance runner Paavo Nurmi, nicknamed the Flying Finn, who won a total of nine gold and three silver medals in his 12 events in the Olympic Games throughout the 20s. The brand was relaunched to the fashion market back in 2011, though it does also still supply athletes with highperformance footwear, too.

—



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The steamer that will.

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september 2013 | mwb-online.co.uk | 55

SOCIETy The parties and events from in and around the menswear industry.

 esquire mAGAzine’s cAtHerine HAywArd And GAretH scourfield Attend tHe openinG of mensweAr lAbel fArrell’s first pop-up sHop in london’s coVent GArden, locAted At 18 eArlHAm street.

 JuliAn blAdes (pictured centre), co-founder of luxury store Jules b, HAs Joined tHe boArd of directors At street And sportsweAr indie cApoloGy witH tHe Aim of AssistinG tHe store’s plAnned e-commerce GrowtH.

From pop-ups to store collaborations, menswear saw a month filled with parties, street photography and the return of Carnaby Street’s Style Night.

—

 cArnAby street is HostinG A new Art And music proJect tHrouGHout september And october, to celebrAte 10 decAdes of music in tHe AreA. pictured: tHe sex pistols in 1976 mAkinG tHeir wAy down tHe bustlinG street.

 britisH footweAr lAbel dr mArtens Held A competition to find briGHton’s most stylisH docs weArer lAst montH, witH finAlists includinG dAniel tsHiyAne (pictured). tHe winner – lottie moore – receiVed £300 wortH of dr mArtens sHoes, Accessories And clotHinG.  tHe second edition of cArnAby street’s style niGHt welcomed bAck A Host of stylisH Gents eArlier tHis montH to tAke AdVAntAGe of 20 per cent off sHops in tHe AreA, As well As trend tAlks, dJ mAster clAsses And Goodie bAGs HAnded out tHrouGHout tHe niGHt.

september 2013 | people | mwb-online.co.uk | 56

COLLECTIVE The people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK BURG & SCHILD BERLIN

SIMON SAyS It’s been a year since we opened our Crystal Palace store. While no one likes a gloater, I can’t help but feel a trifle smug that we finished 50 per cent up on our budget.

— I remember when the builders were in, and naysayers gathered on the pavement taunting, “It’ll never work!”, “Think they can come down here with their West End ways?”, “It be the work of Satan”… well, you get the idea. I understood how Stephenson must have felt as he fired up his Rocket.

On the strength of this, we’re opening a store in Blackheath – an even more prosperous and leafy London suburb than Crystal Palace. I’d passed by the site dozens of times; a long standing jewellers in a prime location just down from the station, on the main drag. When I saw the To Let sign, I moved so fast I blurred. Beating other retailers off with a stick, and having to raise our offer twice, we finally secured it earlier this month.

It’s hard to say why some shops appeal and others don’t. Our Mayfair store was almost born out of necessity; we needed a new central London showroom and the shop was a bonus. As it turned out, it was one of the best moves I’ve ever made. Shepherd Market suits the brand so well, with it’s odd mix of history, individuality and a sense of discovery. Crystal Palace and Lamb’s Conduit Street were both locations I had a gut feel for and, in both cases, beautiful Victorian shop fronts and buildings with character.

Blackheath falls into the same mould. The shop dates from around 1870 and retains the original frontage, right down to the curved glass windows, tessellated entrance floor and foxed Victorian mirrors above the doorway. Inside, there’s much to be done. The 19th century tongue and groove ceiling remains in place under an 80s shop-fit. There’s a glorious wood-panelled light well at the back and, once we start stripping out the previous generations of fixtures, more will be revealed.

I’ve decided it is the part of my job I like the best. Seeing past the obstacles and imagining the shop down to the smallest detail, and following the project through. I could do all the market research and demographic studies before I sign on the line but, increasingly, I conclude that since I’m broadly the demographic, if I like somewhere, then my customers do, too. Fingers crossed.

Simon Carter is the CEO of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

Berlin store Burg & Schild is one of those stores you can call hip and its true in every sense. Found on the city’s trendy Rosa-Luxemburg Strasse, a shopping area playing host to names including Acne, Adidas Originals and A.P.C, it’s a menswear destination to visit when in the city for trade shows.

An abbreviation of co-founders Shane Brandenburg and Kay Knipschild’s names, the store opened in 2007, and last year celebrated its fifth anniversary with collaborations with denim specialist Edwin Europe and the launch of its inaugural T-shirt collection. Burg & Schild has become somewhat of a denim hotspot with brands such as Levi’s Vintage, Edwin, Indigofera and Pike Brothers. Vintage pieces crop up in and around the store, hunted down and brought back from the Rose Bowl flea market in California, as well as classic footwear options from Red Wing Shoes. The biggest selling point, however, is the store’s interior, decked out with an ancient racing car, a motorbike casually propped up inside and the smell of oil and tar lingering in the air.

— PLAN B

My interest in shoes, clothes and, most of all, music came from watching Top of the Pops on TV every Thursday night when I was a kid. I remember watching bands such as The Beat, The Selector, The Jam and The Specials and being fascinated with their attitude, appearance and music.

BRADLEy ALExANDER WATSON Head of footwear sales and development, Original Penguin Footwear Europe

My weekends were always spent in record shops in Newcastle town centre. My nights were mostly spent listening to vinyl records in my bedroom, strumming away on my guitar in front of the mirror and singing into a broken microphone. I made friends with two lads at a record shop called Volume. They had a five-watt amplifier, a four-piece drum kit and a grandmother’s loft to practice in. But after getting a Saturday job in a shoe shop, I eventually lost contact with the lads in the band and my shoe obsession developed.

—

SEPTEMBER 2013 | PEOPLE | MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 57

ToP TWEETS

CLOSET CONFIdENTIaL GOdFREy aMPOMaH, aGENT FOR EGOMaRK, SELLING BRaNdS SUCH aS GaBICCI VINTaGE, LIGHTNING BOLT, SHOES LIKE POTTERy aNd BaLLaNTyNE. I’ve been involved in this business for over a quarter of a century, so I’ve got stacks of clothes in my attic, and it drives my wife nuts. There’s one piece I bought from Silvermans around 10 years ago that I love. It’s an old “made in England” nylon Belstaff jacket with the tartan lining. I wear it every single winter. It’s beautifully made, but I had to have new corduroy lining put on the collar because it wore out. I paid around £70 for it, and it’s the best jacket I’ve ever bought in my life. Now the Italians own Belstaff, the same jacket will probably be £300-£400, so I got a bargain.

— I also love my Levi’s 501s. The 1947 cut from Levi’s Vintage Clothing is the perfect cut for me. I like denim, and I’ve got loads of it, but they’re the ones that I wear the most. I’ve had them around six years and bought them from oi Polloi for around £250. They’re worth every penny – built like a tank – and I had to do the proper shrink-to-fit sit in the bath trick with them. I’ve always been a Levi’s fan.

— another of my treasured possessions is new, which I actually bought in Japan, called Shoes Like Pottery. It’s a really clean white plimsoll – handmade in Japan.

They’re oven-baked, hence the name, which makes them really flexible and comfortable. I guess they’re just a thinking man’s white plimsoll.

— I’ve also got an old brown suede-fronted Gabicci cardigan, which I bought from a sample sale and wear when I feel a bit retro with nice pair of loafers. I remember wearing Gabicci in the 70s, so it takes me back to my youth.

— Finally, my Reigning Champ sweatshirts can’t be beaten. I wear them all the time at weekends. They’re loop-back crew-necks, made in Canada. It’s the best sweatshirt in the world as far as I’m concerned. Definitely one for those in the know.

—

Grey Fox @GreyFoxBlog A lovely lady said to me the other day, “I do like a man in a jumper.” So (typical man) out come my jumpers, sorted and ready to wear.

Brandnation @brandnationcomm “Don't Be Afraid To Give Up The Good To Go For The Great” – John D. Rockefeller #MotivationalMondays Freshers Club @FreshersClubLtd A #man is not old until #regrets take the place of #dreams #JohnBarry Bill Grimsey @BillGrimsey Next caught out by summer sunshine and could have sold more. Better to sell out & given previous summer’s poor weather not a bad own goal.

Dartagnan Menswear @DartagnanMens Walking through town yesterday & I note some stores in Autumn sale already?! What on earth?! Something must be done, #ruiningretail Simon Carter @kingofcufflinks In chiswick to look at new shop locations.

Love it here! Feels very Simon Carter-ish.....

Watch this space David Watts @David_M_Watts Belstaff on Bond St and TOM FORD on Sloane Street Flagship Store openings tonight- I wonder who won? #lfw Paul Turner-Mitchell @PaulTMRetail Just a thought why could retailers not give the 5p bag levy less cost to help building our town centres for the future?

THREE oF THE BEST FOOTWEaR aCCESSORIES Unless stated otherwise, all prices are wholesale

Shine rush, Izola price on request 020 7193 6141 —

Rain & Stain resistance barrier spray, Crep Protect, price on request 0844 567 0877 —

Shoe laces, Lacey 90p 01726 861742 —

september 2013 | cAre cHAllenGe | promotion | 58

LAST CHANCE TO CHALLENGE POVERTy ITE Moda, parent company to MWB as well as the UK’s biggest trade shows Moda, Jacket Required, Scoop International and Bubble London, will join the likes of Gucci, Hugo Boss and Joules Clothing taking part in this month’s Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge.

— MWB’s parent company, ITE Moda, will join teams from across the fashion industry to challenge themselves and challenge poverty on 28 September. The eighth Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge will see teams tackle a marathon on foot, bike and canoe in the Forest of Dean.

The event, supported by MWB and WWB, will raise funds for leading overseas development agency Care International, whose work includes supporting garment workers in poor communities though training, education and advocating for their rights. So far 32 teams have signed up, including Gucci, Hugo Boss, Michael Kors, Superdry, Hobbs, Joules Clothing, Seaway UK, Prima Solutions and CVUK. The ITE Moda team comprises commercial director Nick Cook, event director Jamie Harden, group financial accountant Ben Jackson and event director Sean O’Connor. “ITE Moda are proud to have supported this for the past five years as media partners,” says O’Connor. “We’ve also taken part twice and really enjoyed it. It’s great as colleagues to train and work towards something collectively. Also, we get to mix with other industry names – naturally we are looking forward to the post-event party!”

Over the last eight years, the event has raised over £400,000 for Care. O’Connor explains why, as media partners, the company is proud to have played a key role in the event’s success, “We are encouraged and humbled by the fantastic work Care does,” he says. “Of course, the plight of manufacturer workers overseas is a topical issue and very relevant to our industry. To support an organisation making a difference in this area is rewarding.”

However, it hasn’t all been a positive experience for the ITE Moda team. On a previous Prima Solutions Adventure challenge in Wales, they took a wrong turn on the route. “The uphill bike ride obviously wasn’t long enough, so we added three miles onto it,” says O’Connor. “Like stereotypical males we just kept going and refused to ask for directions!”

Nevertheless, the team is returning, and its members are keen to encourage others to take them on. “Our first team was very mixed in terms of ability – some of whom had never done a challenge event – and everyone genuinely enjoyed it,” says O’Connor. “Despite it being a competition, not everyone takes it too seriously. It is tough but extremely rewarding. If anyone is thinking about doing it – go for it. We’re looking forward to exploring the Forest of Dean, though we hopefully won’t get lost this time…”

PRIMA SOLUTIONS ADVENTURE CHALLENGE qUICK FACTS Date: Location: Team size: Fundraise:

Saturday 28 September 2013 Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire 2, 3 or 4 Team of 2 – £1,000 Team of 3 – £1,500 Team of 4 – £2,000 Difficulty: Demanding Event:

Walk/Run – 17 km / 10.6 miles Canoe – 9 km / 5.6 miles Bike – 16 km / 10 miles

ABOUT CARE INTERNATIONAL UK Care works in 87 countries, helping 122 million of the world’s poorest people find a route out of poverty. Care’s work includes micro-finance projects, assisting garment workers, shoemakers and tailors to start or expand their small businesses, allowing them to feed their family and send their children to school.

Care runs projects teaching women to print fabrics with environmentally friendly vegetable dye and helps them sell their products to the international market, securing a good price for their work. Care also educates garment workers about their rights, making them less susceptible to exploitation. These are a few examples of the projects that could benefit from fundraising, so every bead of sweat is worthwhile.

The event is sponsored by Prima Solutions, a leading supplier of IT solutions to fashion markets.

For further information visit www.carechallenge.org.uk/primasolutions or call the Care Challenge team on 020 7091 6111.

september 2013 | mwb-online.co.uk | 59

THE BOTTOMLEy LINE

© Paul Mowatt

MWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

for more of tom’s opinions Visit mwb-online.co.uk

IT’S ALL GONE POTTy Of all the companies to have commissioned research into how women perceive the dress sense of UK men, call me old fashioned but I wouldn’t have put Pot Noodle down as one of the contenders. How wrong could I be? Apparently 40 per cent of British women are embarrassed by their partner’s scruffy clothes, 29 per cent of men admit they think it’s acceptable to go to a posh restaurant in jeans and a T-shirt, and 1.4 million men have never worn a suit. So get this, in partnership with PrezzyBox.com, Pot Noodle has released the UK’s first tuxedo onesie, to help lads smarten up the easy way. you can’t make this up, can you? But, for pure novelty value, you can bet they shift some units at £25 a pop – however big the units are inside the one-pieces. Frightening stuff. But on another note, the survey also says that “the nation’s women are getting hot under the collar for smarter looking guys”, with David Beckham (40 per cent), George Clooney (17 per cent) and Daniel Craig aka James Bond (15 per cent) topping the poll for celebrities who women would most want their partners to dress like. The irony is, Becks would probably pull off the tux onesie.

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GALACTICO WAGES CAN’T BUy STyLE Footballer Gareth Bale has of course been the talk of the summer, with his long drawn-out £85m move to Real Madrid finally happening at the start of this month. He’s been photographed plenty and had the chance to prove that footballers earning pots of money – aside from Beckham – can actually look stylish, and not naff in expensive tat. But, unfortunately for Bale, he must have been trying to emulate his new team-mate at Madrid, the ever over-dressed or over pampered and preened Ronaldo. Bale was seen in varying shots in various papers wearing a pink T-shirt and matching pink snap-back cap. Oh dear, is he going for the camp signor look? Fans of the Inbetweeners film also

 cAn money buy style?

GAretH bAle proVes perHAps not

 pot noodle’s lAtest Venture, tHe tuxedo onesie

 tHe new mr porter style mAnuAl Volume 2

doctored the image online and added the Pussay Patrol logo to the front of it. That was funny, but I don’t think Ronaldo will be shaking in his diamondencrusted boots just yet. Meanwhile, Bale’s former team-mate at Tottenham, Jermain Defoe, has been busy having a clear out on eBay to help disadvantaged children in St Lucia. Nice gesture but, with all the gear he’s been given, and the wages he earns, couldn’t he just cough up some readies instead of flogging off some dodgy items such as his Dolce & Gabbana denim jacket with camouflage sleeves or old Ed Hardy T-shirt?

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MR PORTER STOCKING FILLER Ok, it’s peeking a bit early but, before you know it, Christmas will be creeping up like Santa up a chimney. And those clever clogs (and togs) at Mr Porter have decided to launch volume two of their Manual for a Stylish Life – with a timely publication

date of 11 November. Compiled by Mr Porter’s editor-in-chief, Jeremy Langmead, it promises to cover everything from the “essential” – how to take care of dress shoes or charm the in-laws – to the “just-in-case”, such as how to pull off daring feats or dance at a wedding, or Christmas party for that matter. There are style recommendations as well as commentaries and insider articles on biker jackets, knitted ties, polo shirts, sweatshirts, tweed and shawl-collared cardigans, and “much more”. Volume Two also features new knacks, including five ways to wear one blazer (not seen that one before), plus cars, bikes, gadgets and boys’ toys, as well as interviews with the likes of actor and funnyman Simon Pegg and actor Elijah Wood. Quite what they’ve got to do with men’s style I’m not sure, but we’ll soon find out. Anyway, the Christmas men’s style books season has officially kicked off, and Mr Porter is setting the benchmark.

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SEPTEMBER 2013 | DIRECTORY | 61

BIG SIzES

CaSUaLWEaR

STEaMERS & IRONS

SUITS   

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WaNTEd

To advertise please call Sharon on

01484 846069 CaRRIER BaGS

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MEN’S FORMALWEAR AGENT REQUIRED We are a successful menswear company looking for agents to carry our range of suits; mac’s, overcoats and casual jackets - and for Spring/Summer ‘14 our new product line in shirts.

These are produced under our own brands ‘Henley & Knight’ and ‘Harry Brown’ - who cater from the fashion forward 25+ gentleman to the more Classic styling of an older gentleman.

We have a large stock holding so all orders can be delivered quickly and efficiently from our warehouse, based north of London and an ever changing range brings innovation and variation to customers.

Successful agents should have existing customer base and a proven sales track record.

We are driven to offer good quality value along with great styling and service.

For further information please contact: jeff.hope@adhope.com

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Northern and Southern Ireland - Dermot Fadden Tel: +353 087 8175000 or Tel: 094 9060555 For all other areas please contact Head Office: Tel: 020 8236 7530 Website: www.adhope.com

september 2013 | mwb-online.co.uk | 62

LAST ORDERS WITH...

LA TOUCHÈ One of the most photographed gents of London Collections: Men, brand consultant La Touchè is also a regular on street style blogs across the world. Victoria Jackson discovered the secret to his sartorial success.

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Occupation: Brand consultant Date of birth: 26/12/90 Birth place: England Lives now: London Twitter: @LaToucheUK

How would you describe your style?

I am most influenced by jazz, the British gentleman and my grandfather. I try to experiment more due to my height, as I’m 6ft 6in.

How has your style evolved over the years?

I think, like most of us, my style and taste evolves over time and I go through phases. I've gone from the skater look – skinny jeans and Vans, with snapbacks and T-shirts – to wearing trousers and shirts. However, I still try to wear a variety of styles.

There is no set rule for me when it comes to dressing, I wear whatever suits my mood.

However, you'll never catch me without a hat. you’re a regular on street style blogs. Do you ever turn the tables and have a go at the photography side?

I enjoy taking photos and would love to have professional training in photography to gain more knowledge about taking quality pictures. I do take photos on my smartphone when I'm out, especially when I see a cool hat for my Instagram page (hatabouttown).

Was fashion something you were passionate about from a young age?

My interest in fashion started when my sister, an up-and-coming designer, had drawn sketches for new garments she was making at the time. It was fascinating to see her ideas brought to life.

My friend, Aaron Christian, founder of www.individualism.co.uk, helped to develop my skills in PR and marketing/consultancy. Aaron asked me to join his team after inviting me down to an Oswald Boateng event. Even though I didn't know people at the event, while there I made sure I went around the room and spoke with a range of people. Aaron noticed how I was able to network with people so quickly and said, “I want you on my team – I don’t know what your position will be just yet, but I want you.”

What’s your most treasured piece of clothing?

My late grandfather’s black trilby hat. I love hats and he gave me his favourite before he died. The hat is special because he promised to give it to me

when I was a child, not knowing I’d grow up being the same hat size as him (58) and it makes me smile every time I wear it.

Who inspires you style-wise?

In terms of style, I am most inspired by cool figures such as Pharrell Williams, Andre 3000, Alani Adenle and Adam Rogers. They experiment with their style and set trends.

Any style tips for the taller gents reading this?

Dress for your height and build on your relationship with your tailor. Don't just go for formal pieces. If you have a shirt that you love but it doesn't fit the arms well, roll the sleeves up or turn them into short sleeves. With trousers, I tend to wear them higher and show the socks more.

Is there anything you’d like to own but can’t afford?

A transitional original rabbit-fur felt Jewish hat.

The best ones are in the thousands.

Lastly, what are you wearing right now?

It’s hot in New york at the moment, so I’m wearing tailored shorts, a short-sleeve shirt from Lacoste with a neck scarf by Lili-Marie La Touche Boutique, Anthony Miles shoes and a wide-brim hat by Lock & Co.

qUICK-FIRE qUESTIONS — Who’d play you in a film?

Will Smith, and his son Jaden would play a young me.

— What advice would you give to your 16-year-old self?

Save your money, spend more time with family, party less, take more risks and travel more.

— Who is your mentor?

My father is a king in my life. I also have three mentors who inspire me to achieve continuously, encourage me with their wisdom and keep me grounded – Harris Elliott, Sam & Shakka and Line Rivdig.

— What couldn’t you live without?

My hats.

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