MWB MAGAZINE MAY ISSUE 212

ISSUE 212 | MAY 2014 | £6.95 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

FROM BRICKS TO CLICKS YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO MULTI-CHANNEL SUCCESS — BETWEEN SEASONS PROFILING THE KEY NAMES IN SHORT-ORDER MENSWEAR

MAY 2013 | CONTENTS | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 03

R E T A I L 10

Interview With The HUB co-founder Peter Caplowe

12

Online Insider

14

Retail Insider

Advice, news and issues online The latest in-store news

E - C O M M E R C E 22

In with the click

24

Spinning the web

G U I D E

The factors driving multi-channel retailing Discover the challenges of website design

26

The bigger picture The dos and don’ts of making your product stand out online

28

Stock exchange

30

Show me the money

Investigating Epos management and how to create a seamless retail experience Why choosing the right payment provider can make all the difference at the checkout

32

Sign, sealed, delivered The importance of choosing the right delivery partner

36

Return to sender Factoring returns into your business plan

38

Essential e-commerce

42

Bricks to clicks

Expert advice on issues from SEO to personalising your online store Profiling three UK independent retailers who have made the successful transition from store to online

D E N I M 46

&

S T R E E T

Favourite topping The key names in mid-season fashion

R E G U L A R S 5 6 16

Comment News Interview

52 55 58

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Dani Reiss

Matthew Zorpas

Front cover:

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MAY 2014 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 05

EDITOR

COmmENT

Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — DEPUT y

EDITOR

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — CONTRIBUTORS Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — SUB

EDITOR

Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — DESIGNERS Michael Podger michael@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — SALES

MANAGER

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — SUB SCRIPTIONS Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — HEAD

OF

MENSWEAR

Jamie Harden jamie@moda-uk.co.uk — PRODUCTION

DIRECTOR

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — PORTFOLIO

DIRECTOR

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com

The rapid growth of multi-channel retail is undeniable and, with consumers fully expecting – rather than wanting – an online offer, the complex world of e-commerce can no longer be ignored.

—

— MARKETING

DIRECTOR

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — MANAGING

DIRECTOR

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2014 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.

Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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It would be hard to imagine a time when consumers didn’t shop for groceries online or conduct a price comparison before buying Christmas presents.

John Lewis, for example, has announced plans to open a convenience store in London’s St Pancras station, designed specifically for Click and Collect customers. No shop layout, no in-store café; just simply a bricks-and-mortar destination where you go to collect your online purchases. Can you imagine this being available five years ago, never mind ten?

This is why MWB brings you our comprehensive guide to e-commerce.

Covering essential topics including website design, product photography and logistics, we also discover just what is driving the growth in multi-channel retail.

But instead of focusing on the big boys, we look at how you, the independent retailer, can translate your bricks to clicks. It’s understandable that many indies feel overwhelmed by the thought of launching an online arm, but this guide looks at how you can do this and, more importantly, how you can do it right.

We speak to three independent retailers who have made the transition online and what challenges they’ve faced along the way. For Psyche founder Steve Cochrane, his online journey started in 1997, when he launched his first static site. Over 15 years later, the challenges of an online store now include shoplifting, where a stolen credit card is used to purchase expensive items, and returns where the original item is replaced with a fake. Both of which, as Cochrane discovered, have very little policing behind them.

For Ravi Grewal, meanwhile, the launch of his online shop highlighted the need for a much more premium offer that he didn’t already sell through his store Stuart’s London – leading to a second online shop, DandyFellow.com, opening last year. In return, Grewal opened up to a whole new demographic, something that would have been much harder to achieve in his bricks-and-mortar store.

Whether you are in the initial stages of opening an e-commerce store, or were one of the first to dive in, myself and the team hope this issue is as interesting and useful for you to read as it was for us to put together. Of course, if you have any comments in the meantime, please do email us, or tweet @mwbmagazine.

Victoria Jackson Editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

MAY 2014 | NEWS | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 06

N E W S

RETAILER CON FIDENCE INCREASES

E-RETAIL SEES STRONGEST PERFORMANCE SINCE 2011 E-retail sales in Q1 of this year are up 17 per cent in comparison to Q1 2013, according to figures unveiled by the recent ImRG Capgemini e-Retail Sales Index – the strongest growth in three years, representing an estimated £23.1bn spent online.

The results further support the ongoing stability of the e-retail sector, which in March saw an annual growth of 18 per cent and a 15 per cent increase on February. Consumers in the UK spent around £7.8bn online last month, up from £6.7bn in March 2013.

In terms of sector performance, a number of key retail segments stood out during the first quarter of the year, with accessories seeing a 34 per cent increase, while footwear grew by 22 per cent year-on-year. Clothing, meanwhile, recorded an increase of 21 per cent.

The upswing in sales, however, is being credited to people spending more per purchase rather than more people shopping online. The average basket value hit £86 in March, and is the highest rate recorded since September last year and compares with £77 in February 2014 and March 2013.

Sales via mobile devices continue to grow unabated, with m-commerce recording a year-on-year increase of 53 per cent in March, while conversion rates are also on the rise, with the average rate recorded in March reaching a five-year high of 4.2 per cent.

“The solid growth represents the strongest Q1 performance since 2011, with sales up 17 per cent year-on-year,” says Tina Spooner, chief information officer at IMRG. “With online transaction values reaching the highest level recorded in six months, and the average conversion rate for March at pre-recession levels, these results not only demonstrate an overall increase in consumer confidence, but also that online shopping is becoming a larger part of our everyday lives.”

Chris Webster, VP, head of retail consulting and technology at Capgemini, adds, “March’s Index is a good indicator of the current strength of the UK economy. It is interesting to see that spending over the last three months was not limited to one sector or the result of one particular influence.

“Rather, Britons are in good spirits, have regained confidence in the economy, and using online as a means to spend across the board,” he continues. “The sustained high conversion rate in March also demonstrates the huge strides retailers have made in their online platforms and are continuing to focus on improving the customer experience.”

—

Retailer confidence is at “its highest level since the recession”, according to the British Independent Retailers Association. The news comes following the second consecutive quarter of overall recovery, and reports that seven in ten independent retailers feel confident about the trading year ahead of them.

For the clothing and footwear sector specifically, sales this quarter represented a growth of 2.71% in direct comparison with the first quarter of 2013. Some retailers still expressed frustration at the slow recovery of the economy, however, with one clothing and footwear retailer of the anonymous survey describing the proverbial corner to be turned as “long and bendy”.

Overall growth across differed from region to region, with retailers in Wales reporting significant sales increases of 16.69% this quarter, while those in the North East of England reported losses of 2.68% in direct comparison with the first quarter of 2013.

—

RETAILERS TO DESPATCH 920 MILLION PARCELS IN 2014 Deliveries from UK retailers will reach 920 million this year, according to a growth trajectory by industry analyst Interactive Media in Retail Group (IMRG). The figure is representative of the ongoing growth of the volume of parcels despatched by UK retailers that is currently averaging 19.2 per cent year-on-year.

“Perhaps due to increased consumer confidence as the UK economic recovery continues, this year’s March increase is more pronounced than in 2013,” says Andrew Starkey, head of e-logistics at IMRG. “The current cumulative growth performance makes our initial 12.5 per cent forecast look very pessimistic, but we believe we need at least another month’s data before we rely on this new trend line.

“Should this growth be maintained, 2014 year-end volumes for dispatches from UK e-retailers – excluding ‘store fulfilled’ Click and Collect – would be in the region of 888 million orders and 920 million packages.”

—

MAY 2014 | NEWS | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 07

IN BRIEF

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

CHIC BEIJING MOVES TO SHA N GHA I IN 2 0 1 5

BFC/GQ ANNOUNCES SHORTLIST

Chic, the largest trade fashion event in mainland China, is to move from Beijing to Shanghai in 2015. The annual show, whose most recent edition took place on 26-29 March, has been running in Beijing for 22 years, with last month’s edition attracting around 90,000 visitors.

Next year’s event, which will see Chic shortened from a four to three day show, will be held on 18-20 March at a newly built fairground scheduled to open in Shanghai at the end of this year, and will run alongside apparel fabrics show Intertextile.

The move from the Chinese capital to the city, largely regarded as the country’s fashion capital, will also pave the way for a new layout for the event’s 600-plus domestic exhibitors. It will see brands segmented by lifestyle rather than by the current division into menswear, womenswear and childrenswear halls. International brands will continue to show primarily in national pavilions.

—

The British Fashion Council (BFC) has announced the shortlist for the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund.

Finalists include Christopher Raeburn, Christopher Shannon, E.Tautz, Lou Dalton and Richard Nicoll, who will each pitch their business plans to a judging panel in June, when the winner of the fund will be selected.

“The shortlisted designers are a testament to the extraordinary talent in the menswear industry in Britain right now,” says Dylan Jones, editor of British GQ and chair of London Collections: Men. “The current generation of British menswear designers might be the best ever, as they not only have creativity in abundance, but also a keen business sense. Our young designers know that without a solid business background, success can be tough, and this is why it is so heartening to see such strong business plans from these shortlisted designers.”

—

J ER M Y N ST R EET OPEN IN G FOR AQUA SCU T U M

MICHAEL W HITBY-GRUBB EXITS PENROSE LONDON

Aquascutum, the British luxury label, will open a new menswear concept store on London’s Jermyn Street in June.

The 1,268 sq ft store will be located on 78-79 Jermyn Street, on the corner of Duke Street – home to other established brands such as Fortnum & Mason and Dunhill.

“We are delighted to be opening on Jermyn Street,” says Mark Taylor, chief operating officer.

“Following the successful opening of the Great Marlborough Street store in November 2013, the addition of this new menswear shop adds an exciting mix to our store portfolio.

“This was a location that was very important in building our retail presence in central London,” he continues. “It will incorporate a new, unique design concept, still staying true to the brand’s British style.”

—

Michael Whitby-Grubb has left accessory label Penrose London, following six years as commercial director. Whitby-Grubb is credited with launching the brand internationally in some of the world’s best stores and specialist independents.

“Michael was instrumental in launching Penrose London, and his professionalism, commitment and experience in the luxury menswear industry will be missed,” says Mitchell Jacobs, founder of Penrose London. “We wish him all the best for the future.”

On his departure, Whitby-Grubb says, “We shared a strategic vision of where we wanted to take the brand and, after six years, I feel it is time to move on. I leave knowing the brand is in safe hands, and I look forward to considering other projects within this wonderful industry.”

—

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN SCHEDULE RELEASED London Collections: Men has released its s/s 15 schedule ahead of its fifth edition, set to be held on 15-17 June, with new designers including DKNY Men, Maharishi and Sankuanz Presented By GQ China.

Taking place across various London locations, the BFC Show Space will move from The Hospital Club, Covent Garden, to Victoria House, Bloomsbury, and will bring together both the static exhibition and a number of runway shows. Returning names include YMC, Lee Roach, Hackett London and Burberry.

— TRINITY LEEDS NAMED BEST DEVELOPMENT The International Council of Shopping Centres (ICSC) has named Trinity Leeds as the Best New Development at its annual European Shopping Centre Awards.

Recognising the achievements of 63,000 shopping centres in over 100 countries, the awards were presented in Istanbul last night.

“We are delighted to have been recognised by such an established international body as the ICSC,” says Lester Hampson, head of retail development at Land Securities, the developer behind Trinity Leeds. “We are proud of the success Trinity Leeds has seen since it opened in 2013, and establishing ourselves as one of the go-to destinations in Europe has cemented the belief in the project as we continue to attract a diverse portfolio of brands. The scheme is almost fully let, and this is testament to the strength of belief in the scheme and the city as a whole.”

Since it was established just over a year ago, Trinity Leeds has attracted more than 22 million visitors. The £350m development showcases over 100 brands and retail outlets, including Superdry and Armani Exchange.

— DEBUT DENIM RANGE FOR UNIVERSAL WORKS British menswear label Universal Works has launched Workshop Denim – itsfirst denim collection that retails exclusively through Manchester’s Oi Polloi and Brighton’s Peggs & Son. Diversifying into what it describes as a typically American or Japanese product, the brand has adopted a different approach to denim manufacture, sourcing vintage loom-made 13oz denim and making its jeans in the centre of England.

The debut collection comprises two fits, each of which is unbranded on the outside. Retail prices are £135, and the range is available through the label’s own website as well as selected independent retailers.

Established in 2008, Universal Works is a British heritage label with a commitment to UK manufacture at its Nottingham headquarters.

— IAN MACLEAN TO BE MEET THE MANUFACTURER SPEAKER John Smedley’s MD, Ian Maclean, will be keynote speaker at this summer’s Meet the Manufacturer conference alongside retail guru Mary Portas.

The first event of its kind, Meet the Manufacturer will address the potential for a full-scale return of fashion and textiles manufacturing to the UK at London’s Old Truman Brewery on 11-12 June.

MAY 2014 | NEWS | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 08

IN BRIEF

MONKEE GENES GOES VEGA N

T IM BER L A N D A PPOIN TS N EW VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES

UK denim label Monkee Genes has teamed up with animal welfare charity PETA to produce a limited-edition, leather-free, recycled cardboard jeans patch bearing the charity’s logo. The new patch replaces Monkee Genes’ former leather patches, and adds to the brand’s eco credentials, which have seen it certified by the Soil Association for organic standards.

“Monkee Genes is at the head of the pack when it comes to offering products that are as kind to the earth as they are to animals,” says PETA UK associate director Mimi Bekhechi. “The PETA-approved vegan logo on the back of the new Monkee Genes jeans will let style-minded, eco-conscious consumers know that no animals were hurt or killed in the production of these chic trousers.”

—

Footwear and apparel label Timberland has appointed Mariano Alonso as its new vice president of sales in line with its plans for accelerated growth this year and beyond. Alonso is charged with delivering a new, aggressive sales plan for the brand, and will see it focus its efforts on international expansion across its men’s and women’s subsidiaries.

“There is a great vibe around Timberland,” says Alonso. “It is a strong and inspiring brand, and the opportunity to participate in its future growth is the perfect challenge for me.”

Timberland – part of the VF Corporation – revealed its accelerated growth plans in June last year, and is restructuring its sales force accordingly.

Alonso will be responsible for driving sales across both wholesale and distributor channels and will report to Timberland’s president, Timo Schmidt-Eisenhart.

—

N EW SCHEME FOR RETA ILERS IN N ORT HER N IR EL A N D

G- L A B A PPOIN TS N EW HEA D OF INTERNATIONAL OF SALES

One4all, the leading multi-store gift card available from the Post Office, has announced a new opportunity for independent retailers in Northern Ireland to grow their business.

Plans are also in place to extend the scheme to support independent department stores and growing independent retailers such as clothing shops and jewellers. It hopes to give consumers more choice locally in the market, enabling them to shop the full selection of their favourite shops, including the local stores they love – in turn supporting thousands of smaller independent retailers.

By joining the scheme, indies will benefit from being able to access a huge potential market of customers looking to spend their gifts and get their brand in front of one million Post Office customers each week.

—

G-Lab, the specialist unisex brand entering the UK market for a/w 14, has appointed former Canada Goose general manager Joe Sudow as its new head of international sales.

The German jacket label was established in 2010 and has successfully penetrated both the European and North-American fashion market.

In his new position, Sudow will be responsible for G-Lab’s international business, with a focus on expansion into existing markets and developing new markets including France, Sweden and Japan.

“With more than 20 years of experience with companies such as Canada Goose and Patagonia, I am thrilled to help G-Lab grow its international footprint,” says Sudow. “In my mind, the strongest growth potential in outerwear is in the combination of function and fashion, and G-Lab leads in this category.”

—

INDEPENDENT LEADER LAUNCHES This season sees the launch of Independent Leaders, a London streetwear label targeting the contemporary end of the menswear industry with a collection inspired by the vibrant culture of Rio. Defining itself as a lifestyle brand, Independent Leaders makes its debut as a capsule collection, but has revealed plans to collaborate with artists, photographers and musicians for a/w 14 and beyond. Initially available through its own website, independent-leaders.com, the brand is targeting independent stockists across Europe with its forward-order offer.

Tropical prints, palm-tree graphics and edgy florals are the key characteristics of the label’s inaugural offer, which fuses London street styling with the laid-back beach culture of Ipanema. Key pieces include the all-over print Lucio T-shirt and the Leandro tee, which features reverse sleeve prints and a dip-dye effect in teal. For cooler climates, the Demetrio crew neck incorporates the brand’s tropical DNA into a practical cover-up with floral print sleeves and the label’s signature toucan branding.

— CHEANEY AND JEFFERY WEST RETURN TO BEST OF BRITANNIA Men’s footwear labels Cheaney and Jeffery West have revealed plans to exhibit at this year’s Best of Britannia event, taking place in the central London borough of Clerkenwell this October.

Currently in its third year, Best of Britannia is the UK’s biggest pop-up department store that runs for three days per year, showcasing British designers across the fashion, art, and furniture and lifestyle sectors. The event will once again return to Clerkenwell’s iconic Farmiloe Building, presenting 200 British labels against the dramatic backdrop of a Victorian warehouse.

This year also sees the appointment of Red or Dead founder Wayne Hemingway as non-executive director of the event.

“I decided to get on board with Best of Britannia because they are definitely on to something,” he says. “The time is right, but we need a lot more British manufacturers and British brands to support it.”

—

KEITH HORSLEY Menswear industry figure Keith Horsley sadly passed away earlier last month aged 63, following his year-long battle with cancer. The former agent of premium Italian label Canali, he worked with the brand up until his retirement in 1997, and was key to the label’s success in the UK market. Horsley also counted Chester Barrie and Ermenegildo Zegna as former employers in his almost 40 years in the industry. Son Tim Horsley followed him into menswear, with father and son forming an agency together in 2012.

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MAY 2014 | INTERVIEW | 10

EASTERN RISING

PETER CAPLOWE (RIGHT) WITH THE HUB CO-FOUNDER RICHARD HOBBS

As Hong Kong trade show The HUB prepares for a move to a new, downtown venue for its third edition, mWB caught up with co-founder Peter Caplowe to talk about the growth of multi-brand retail in China, and the new opportunities opening up for international brands in the Asia Pacific region.

—

mWB: multi-brand retail is still a relatively new concept in the Chinese market. What’s your view of the retail landscape in mainland China today?

Peter Caplowe: Multi-brand is still a new concept for China, but as a sector of fashion retail it really is one of the fastest growing. To understand how important it’s becoming, though, and how it’s going to be even more important in the future, I think you have to look back at how retail in China has developed over the last 10 years or so, and understand how consumer attitudes to brands have changed.

— mWB: How have they changed?

PC: Obviously the first wave of brands into China were the top-end, luxury labels that opened up their own stores and commanded seriously high prices from an elite clientele. Below that, a lot of domestic Chinese brands, also operating their

own stores, established themselves as a lowerpriced alternative, although still at price points, meaning they enjoyed huge margins. There was basically a 10-year golden period for domestic brands where they didn’t really have any competition, but now that fast-fashion retailers from the West are moving in – such as Zara and H&M – the domestic brands are finding it hard to compete. Chinese retailers are encouraged to look at different models and, with interest in more niche labels now growing, multi-brand retail is becoming a far more interesting option.

— mWB: What’s driving this interest in new and niche brands?

PC: Firstly, interest in the big name luxury brands has slowed significantly. That level of luxury isn’t seen as “cool” anymore, and the Chinese government has introduced new anti-corruption

laws that prevent public officials from wearing high-end designer labels, or exchanging them as gifts. But interest in fashion hasn’t waned, so consumers who are into fashion are looking for new brands. Given that not every label is in a position to open a chain of standalone stores, the only place they’re going to be able to find these brands is in multi-brand stores, and it’s something that retail business are quickly coming to realise.

— mWB: What’s the situation with multi-brand stores at the moment?

PC: As I said, it’s still a pretty new concept, but the numbers are growing fast. In Beijing, for example, the number of multi-brand stores has increased by seven times in the last seven years, and the same thing is happening across the country. It’s not confined to the big “first tier” cities either, as multibrand stores are now bringing labels to cities that

MAY 2014 | INTERVIEW | 11

don’t necessarily have all the standalones of, say, Beijing or Shanghai.

— mWB: You’ve also been personally involved in promoting the concept of multi-brand fashion retail to Chinese business owners. How has this been received?

PC: Because domestic brands are now up against such stiff competition from overseas chains, the multi-brand concept is actively promoted to business owners by Chinese industry associations, and other shows as well as The HUB. They’re very keen for Chinese retailers to see how things work in Europe and understand that the same ideas could work in China. So as show organisers, and basically as Western fashion people based in Hong Kong, we’ve been involved in a number of events and projects on the topic. At last season’s edition of Chic in Beijing, which is the biggest fashion trade show in mainland China, for example, I was involved in presenting an overview of multi-brand retail in Europe. We’ve also taken part in the China Fashion Forum, and at the moment we’re talking to them about bringing a delegation of businesses to Hong Kong for a forum running alongside The HUB. This would be the first time that the China Fashion Forum has ever held an event outside of mainland China. At all of the events we’ve been part of, businesses have been very receptive to the ideas we’ve presented. The idea behind The HUB itself is that it’s about educating both retailers and brands about new opportunities as well as a showcase for collections themselves.

—

mWB: The HUB is moving to a new venue for the August edition. Will it mean a change for the show format?

PC: I think every show develops from one edition to the next but, as a new exhibition for what’s still a developing market, we’re learning more each season. The move from our original venue at Asia World Expo to our new venue at D2 Place is going to make a big difference to the look and feel of the show, and will introduce a format that we’re confident will make the show as easy and as cost effective as possible for exhibitors. There will be a cleaner, more uniform look to the whole show, enabling exhibitors to clearly tell their brand story without necessarily needing a large amount of space. In terms of product areas, The HUB remains focused on heritage and contemporary fashion, denim and premium sportswear, as well as collections from the best new domestic designers.

— mWB: How do you source the new designers for the show?

PC: There’s a vibrant fashion design scene in Hong Kong, and there are some great new collections emerging from across the region. New, local designers are going to be particularly prevalent at the next edition of The HUB, as the owners of our new venue are heavily involved in the Fashion Farm Foundation, a local not-for-profit initiative run in conjunction with Create Hong Kong to promote the work of Hong Kong designers. At the show in August we'll be presenting the latest collections from five Fashion Farm Foundation designers, as well as other Asia-based designers

that we’ve sourced from across the region.

— mWB: There still seems to be a degree of uncertainty among Western brands as to how best to enter the Chinese and Asia Pacific markets. Is it something you’re happy to address as organisers?

PC: It’s absolutely something we address, and we’re as clear as possible with everyone we talk to as to what they can expect to get out of the Chinese market, and a visit to The HUB. As I said earlier, there’s a whole process of education going on on both sides, and there really is no one single recommended way of entering the Chinese market. If a brand is looking at selling wholesale in the same was as it does in Europe then the Chinese market is still relatively immature, but the rate at which it’s growing means that there are huge benefits in getting in early. We’re also working on an initiative to delivery more buyers from Taiwan and Korea, where the market for international brands is already well developed.

The opportunities for retail partnerships, licence agreements and franchise deals in all Asian markets are also huge, and there’s still the potential for international brands to meet a partner who can completely transform their business. And that doesn’t happen anymore in Europe. I think the key to the Chinese and Asian markets is to take it seriously and do your research, but at the same time keep an open mind as there are multiple business models to explore.

China isn’t Europe, and an opportunity may present itself that simply wouldn’t be on the table in any other market.

MAY 2014 | ADVICE | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 12

ONLINE INSIDER Advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: CONSIDER SWITCHING PAYMENT PROVIDERS FROM THE BANK TO AN INDEPENDENT

GARETH POPPLETON is the managing director at Retail Merchant Services and can be contacted via fieldworksmarketing.com

It’s tough for small brands and fashion businesses that are starting out.

There are major overheads and a long list of business requirements to wade through before getting up and running, with the task of how to receive payments a fundamental consideration. Gareth Poppleton, managing director at Retail Merchant Services, investigates the options.

It’s tricky enough for indie start-ups without the hassle of understanding the various costs associated with a chip-and-pin terminal, with many banks presenting charges in a confusing way or even attempting to hide overinflated fees within long contractual agreements.

Every retailer, however small or big, is required to pay a fee – usually monthly – to hire a chip-and-pin terminal, and there is also a charge on all transactions made. This is a percentage of the purchase made if the customer is paying by credit card, or a pence per transaction fee if they pay using a debit card.

The fee varies between providers, and retailers may also find that additional costs are built into an agreement, such as card authorisation charges – which may not have even been made explicitly clear when signing up to the service.

Many retailers resign themselves to paying these rates, as they are under the misapprehension that you must rent chip-and-pin devices from your business banking partner. In truth, businesses are free to source terminals from another bank or, even better, an independent provider.

Indie retailers need to do their homework, shop around and compare services. This will enable them to secure a lower rate and, in addition, a better benefits package. Independent payment providers are also set up to proactively look after their customers. Many have UK contact centres to deal with businesses of all sizes, as opposed to banks, which have a bigger onus on larger, corporate accounts, and often outsource customer services to another country.

If you sign up with a bank, all funds must be transferred direct into your account at that bank. However, an independent provider will provide the flexibility for funds to be transferred into a bank account of your choice, and is likely to offer additional business benefits that support the business.

For an indie retailer starting out or under contract, it’s worthwhile carrying out research to find the best provider – one that offers guidance and benefits in addition to the normal payments service.

—

WEB WATCH

WWW.HUNTERGATHER.COM Relaunching just in time for s/s 14, concept fashion label Huntergather presents a brand new website to showcase its men’s and women’s offer. Founded

by David Bradshaw, the label is a creative community of design talent, offering a core collection of contemporary classics including a pea coat, sharp suit and classic bomber. The redeveloped site showcases new content, feature articles, video editorial and a “new arrivals” section – the latter showing printed T-shirts modelled by Edward Wilding, Huntergather’s latest face.

—

NEWS

£4.5M IN NEW INVESTMENT FOR SECRETSALES.COM Flash sales website Secretsales.com has secured £4.5m worth of investment from venture capital firm Partech Ventures and French private equity company 123Venture.

The investment comes following significant sales growth for the website, which achieved 70 per cent net sales growth in 2013.

“We are delighted to welcome Partech VI and 123Venture as new investors, and pleased that our existing shareholders continue to demonstrate their support and commitment through their participation in this latest funding round,” says Nish Kukadia, CEO at Secretsales.com.

“We are excited to now focus on the next stage of our ambitious growth plans for secretsales.com.”

Secretsales.com has implemented a bigger focus on fashion brands over the past year, with recent sales including Christian Louboutin shoes, Gucci sunglasses, Victoria Beckham denim and vintage Chanel handbags.

The company will use its investment to accelerate its strategic priorities, including the implementation of customer retention initiatives and technological improvements.

BURBERRY OPENS DIGITAL BOUTIQUE ON CHINESE MARKETPLACE TMALL.COM Luxury British fashion house Burberry has become the first premium label to join Chinese company Alibaba Group online marketplace, TMall.com.

The brand’s TMall.com digital storefront launched last month and offers a tailored selection of products such as menswear, womenswear, fragrance and accessories. Compatible with all mobile, desktop and table devices across China, the site features a custom-built design that reflects Burberry’s online flagship store, Burberry.com.

The store opening coincides with the launch of Burberry’s new Shanghai flagship, bringing the brand’s physical store count in China to 78.

Tmall.com is currently China’s biggest business-to-consumer marketplace, offering custom-built brand platforms for a number of national and international brand such as Nike and Levi’s.

MAY 2014 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 14

RETAIL INSIdER The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

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VIEWPOINT Bruce Henderson owns The man’s Shop in Worthing with his wife, Ellie. They are both members of The Fashion Association of Britain (FAB).

COMMON PEOPLE UNITES W ITH INDIES Scottish menswear label Common People teamed up with local retailers in Stockbridge last month in a campaign designed to boost footfall into the area.

The brand, which has a standalone store on Edinburgh’s St Stephen Street, displayed a decorated egg within its store to indicate its participation in the Easter Egg Trial, and offered each customer the chance to win a £100 as part of the promotion.

The campaign was organised by the St Stephen Street Traders Association, and is the latest in a series of events designed to raise awareness of the eclecticism of Edinburgh’s independent sector.

“This is our first year in retail on St Stephen Street,” says Common People’s creative director and founder, Kestin Hare. “The area is said to be a menswear destination, with stores such as Dick’s, The Brotique and Common People, and we work together with a great mix of independent retailers in the Stockbridge area.”

—

IN BRIEF UCLA LAUNCHES INTO AUSTRALIA UCLA Clothing, derived from the University of California Los Angeles, has opened its first Australian standalone store in Melbourne. After success in both the European and Indian markets, the brand has made the move over to the Australian market with its s/s 14 collection. Aimed at the 16-25 year old, the label continues to draw inspiration from the West Coast of America, with the latest drop a mix of heritage, LA street culture and college sporting achievements.

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PRIMARK PROFITS UP 26 PER CENT High-street retailer Primark has announced a rise in profits of 26 per cent in the 24 weeks to 1 March. The discount retailer – owned by Owner Associated British Food – reported profits of £298m. The surge in revenue has been attributed to the retailer’s “aggressive growth strategy”, which has seen it open new larger stores across the UK, bringing its total number of stores to 269. International expansion is also a focus for the business, following its double-digit growth in Spain and Portugal and “very strong” growth in Northern Europe. Further expansion is now forecast for this year.

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It was a pretty dreadful start to the year for us with the tidal storms and flooding on the coast.

Our average customer is unlikely to leave the house if he doesn’t need to and, with the high winds, very few did. Predictably, business improved with the weather, and we’ve had a good reaction to the new spring collections.

With fewer people wearing formal suits to work nowadays, we’ve had to amend our buying and our product mix. For 2014, we cut back on our suit buying dramatically and plan to introduce a decent spread of footwear.

We will rely mainly on Skopes and Label

by Scott for in season suit buying. As such, we’ve been pushing our remaining suits at half price in an effort to clear this space for footwear. It’s important for us to remain flexible and try new things.

We picked up a couple of new brands at the IMC this year and are looking forward to seeing how customers respond to them.

Sharing ideas and feedback with other retailers is always useful. We are confident about the introduction of Olymp shirts to the mix, since they are highly recommended by fellow IMC members. Likewise, we are hoping the lightweight summer coats from Canson and short-sleeved shirts from Colture will provide something practical and relevant to our customer.

Being located out of the town centre definitely helps us. Our customers are not seeking instant gratification and are happy to come in, order something and wait for a week or so if we don’t have it their size at the time.

What they value is the relaxed atmosphere, familiarity and being able to park nearby for free. So much of retail and buying is about judgement, so it’s encouraging to see the enthusiastic reaction to our new deliveries this spring. After all, retail can often be an eternal quest of trying to read what it is the customer wants. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

MAY 2014 | RETAIL | NEWS & OPINION | 15

SHOPPED: STUdIO 148 You opened in 2011, what initially made you decide to open a menswear store?

I’ve lived in Teddington for a few years, and noticed there was a gap on its high street for menswear. Being a qualified artist, I see my shop as a blank canvas to which I can add style and colour. I completed a buying course, and also studied personal styling at NHJ Style Consultancy.

— You have a standard website, but are there plans in the future to make it transactional?

We are in the process of launching our new NITA SHARmA, OWNER, STUDIO 148, e-commerce website, and hope to go live by the end 148 HIGH STREET, of June. We have thoroughly researched other TEDDINGTON, MIDDLESEX TW11 8HZ competitors’ websites, and want ours to be as efficient and easy to use as possible.

— What will you do to drive traffic to the site?

We plan to invest heavily in PR, adverting and online marketing to drive more traffic to our site. We will also have an active social networking campaign via Twitter and Facebook. It’s a local campaign that will encourage local residents to shop with local independents.

— How do you aim to stand out from the big e-commerce fashion players and indies who have been at it for some time?

I am not trying to compete with established players. We are a new independent, but also exclusive to Teddington. The majority of our customers prefer to visit our boutique rather than shop online, but e-commerce offers another way to find us and we can run online offers and special promotions.

—

IN FOCUS: 32 THE GUILd 32 GUILdHALL ROAd, NORTHAmPTON NN1 1EW

ESTABLISHEd: MAY 2013 — BRANdS: BLEU DE PANAME, CUISSE DE GRENOILLE, DENHAM THE JEANMAKER, GRENSON, OLIVER SWEENEY, SANDQVIST, SKIVE, LABORATORY PERFUME, MR NATTY, KINFOLK, 32 THE GUILD ACCESSORIES

FR A N K LIN & M A R SHA LL M A K ES U K STOR E DEBU T US lifestyle label Franklin & Marshall has opened its first standalone shop in one of London’s key shopping areas, Seven Dials.

The store, measuring 2,654 sq ft, spans two floors and is located at 47-49 Neal Street, joining the likes of Pepe Jeans, Dr Martens, Diesel, Urban Outfitters and Size.

“Since Franklin & Marshall launched over 14 years ago, we have increased our retail growth and expansion by opening stores globally, including Dubai, Rome, Tokyo and Italy,” says Giuseppe Albarelli, co-founder of Franklin & Marshall. “We are really excited about opening our first store in the UK, as the launch of the London flagship store will cement our global growth and position in the market.”

—

IN BRIEF

Having just completed her first year in business with 32 The Guild, Zoie Walker has brought a fine mix of products to Northampton that have chosen for their true craftsmanship and simple understated design. Customers appear to be lapping it up, as much as they are supping up the Segafredo Italian coffee from the in-store espresso bar.

Both Zoie and her husband, Mark, who helps with the menswear buying (the store also sells womenswear), are shoe designers – which befits the heritage of Northampton, and they simply wanted to bring to the town an interesting shop and something different.

“We are not interested in predictable brands,”says Zoie. “We strive to bring together a carefully curated selection of product including Bleu De Paname clothing and Sandqvist accessories. It is important to me that the store is an interesting place. The way we are shopping more and more online today demands that when we do venture out to stores, they should make a real impression and be a worthwhile experience.” Spoken like a dedicated retailer. There is also a footwear design studio above the shop, and an own-range of men’s belts and key rings is also available.

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JOHN LEWIS RETAINS TITLE OF UK’S BEST RETAILER John Lewis has retained its title as the UK’s best retailer, following the Verdict Customer Satisfaction Awards, held last month at the London Stock Exchange. In its latest customer satisfaction poll, Verdict Research reveals that the department store chain is once again the nation’s number one retailer. The survey of more than 5,800 customers showed that John Lewis obtained scores for service that far exceeded any other retailer.

—

MAY 2014 | INTERVIEW | 16

INTERVIEW

dANI REISS As CEO of Canada Goose, and grandson of the man who founded the business, dani Reiss knows a thing or two about top-end outerwear for extreme weather.

Tom Bottomley grabs him on a flying visit to the all-new showroom in London to talk parkas.

Tom Bottomley: The original brand was called Snow Goose – when did it change to Canada Goose?

Dani Reiss: When we entered the European market we thought it better to call it Canada Goose. Both brand names co-existed for a while.

The product was exactly the same, just the label different. In 2000, we decided to consolidate them because both labels were doing exceptionally well – Snow Goose in America and Canada Goose in Europe. It just made sense to bring it all under Canada Goose. That was an important turning point for us. Also, I think that function has become “fashion”.

— TB: What marks your down parkas out from anyone else’s?

DR: There are a lot of things that separate our jackets from the rest. Firstly, they are authentic, and it’s about the actual use of our products, and then it’s about the materials we use. If you to go the coldest places on earth, such as Antarctica, Siberia or Alaska, you will see people wearing our products because we are the real deal. We use the best down in the world – Canadian Hutterite – which we get from farmers in the Canadian prairies. All of our blends contain some Hutterite.

Nobody else has scientific blends of down that they’ve perfected over the years to work in harmony with the fabrics, creating such extreme warmth. We have several factories across Canada, employing over 1,000 people, and we all like to make the best.

— TB: did you ever think selling a parka for over £800 would be a problem in the UK market?

DR: No, never. We are committed to producing the best jackets in the world, so we only use the best materials – from our proprietary custom

CEO CANAdA GOOSE

MAY 2014 | INTERVIEW | 17

down blends and waterproof, windproof and breathable four-way stretch fabric to smaller details such as the placement of buttons, grab straps and zippers. All of these materials come at a premium price. We are also made in Canada, and every jacket is made by an artisan. Together, all of these elements create a high-value product. Our customers support this approach and demand for our products continues to outstrip supply.

— TB: What’s your most expensive jacket?

DR: Our most expensive jacket from our Outdoor Performance collection is the Snow Mantra at £1,200. It’s the warmest jacket in the world, developed for people who live and work in the coldest places on the planet. The Snow Mantra has a lot of life-saving features – from the grab straps at the back in case someone needs to be pulled out of icy waters to the kidney warmers in the inside pockets in case these important organs begin to fail in extreme temperatures.

— TB: What sort of growth have you seen over the past decade?

DR: Over 3,500 per cent. Telling our story properly has been a big part of that growth. A lot comes down to our marketing, but number one is that it’s a “product” story. We make “best-in-class” product and, when you put one of our jackets on, you feel incredibly warm. The company has gone from being worth CAN $3m (£1.6m) to well in excess of CAN $150m (£81.5m). In the UK, our growth is currently 230 per cent year-on-year.

— TB: What’s your connection with the film industry?

DR: We call ourselves the unofficial jacket of film crews. That’s because any film set you go to around the world – where it’s cold – from the last three decades at least, you would genuinely see Canada Goose jackets everywhere. you’d think we were sponsoring them, but we’re not. We’re just the jackets of choice because we do the job.

Lately we have started to sponsor film festivals.

It’s a way of celebrating our authentic involvement in the film industry. We don’t pay for endorsements or product placements or anything like that. People wear our products because they want to. Our jackets are also used in films to authenticate freezing locations.

— TB: Was the original business founded on making private-label products for other brands?

DR: Back in the day, yes. My grandfather started the business in 1957. He was an immigrant from Eastern Europe. He was originally a cutter in other people’s factories. He founded Metro Sportswear, which made general outerwear for the local market in Canada. My father got involved in the business in the 70s, and he was more entrepreneurial. He grew the down business on the private-label side. He also invented a “down machine” for filling the jackets – it was quite revolutionary at the time. It was a machine that we used up until very recently. So he started producing jackets for a lot of famous names such as Eddie Bauer, LL Bean and Timberland. He also started the Snow Goose and Canada Goose brands. It was about his passion for making incredible products for the coldest places on earth. And it developed a cult following.

— TB: How many fits do you now have for your parkas?

DR: We have three – regular, relaxed and slim – depending on the style. The slim fit is more contemporary. It originates from our Japanese line. We’ve been doing a specific range in Japan for the last 10 years or so. The UK retailers buy from all three fits, depending on the style.

— TB: What is the bestselling jacket for men, and why?

DR: The Chateau parka is our most popular style for men. The Chateau is a slim-fitting urban coat, which appeals particularly to the UK market, yet still offers the cold weather protection that we’re known for. Consumers are discerning they want authentic, functional pieces that also provide style and sophistication.

— TB: What’s your most famous parka?

DR: I’d say our Expedition parka. That’s probably the most iconic jacket we have. That and the Snow Mantra. But the Expedition is the one used by the American National Science Foundation for its divisional port of research in Antarctica. It’s certainly the jacket I wear when I go there!

— TB: Is climate key to sales?

DR: Climate doesn’t necessarily have an impact on

sales. While many of our top markets are places where it’s very cold, other places such as Dubai and India – where it never goes below zero – are also doing quite well. It’s a big world, people travel a lot, and they want to be equipped with the best product for their needs. And we all know that “cold” is relative.

— TB: What’s the summer market like for you?

DR: We don’t have a summer line as such, but we do offer different lighter-weight products that do well for us in spring, such as our Highbridge Lite jacket. We also have a three-ply waterproof breathable rain shell – like a windcheater style, but we’ve developed our own fabric. It’s been very successful, particularly in the UK. People ask us about “summer-specific” product, but we’re very careful to make everything we do a “best-in-class” product, and also “made in Canada”. It’s really important to us. We’re very methodical in our product development process.

— TB: Where does your product sit best?

DR: We sit at the intersection of function and fashion, giving us a unique distribution position that is spread across the region’s best outdoor and fashion retailers. Our top indie retailers include Matches, Browns, Accent and Jules B. They all have a reputation for sourcing “best-inclass” products.

— TB: Are there plans for a standalone shop?

DR: There are no plans for one in the near future, but maybe one day. Currently we’re 100 per cent wholesale. We’re launching an e-commerce platform this year in Canada, and rollout plans for the rest of world will follow. We also have a shopin-shop at Harrods that performs well for us.

— TB: Would you ever dilute the brand and introduce product at cheaper price points to hit a wider audience?

DR: Definitely not. We’d rather go upmarket than downmarket. It’s more fun and challenging to make better things, and we only want to make things that we’d wear ourselves.

—

“If you to go the coldest places on earth, such as Antarctica, Siberia or Alaska, you will see people wearing our products because we are the real deal”

3RD

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WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

MAY 2014 | CONTENTS | 21

E - C O M M E R C E R U L E S

MWB’s indispensable guide to multi-retail, focusing on issues including web design, photography and logistics, as well as investigating what is driving the independent e-retail sector.

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22

In with the click

32

Sign, sealed, delivered

36

Return to sender

38

Essential e-commerce

42

Bricks to clicks

Looking at the factors driving multi-channel retailing

The importance of choosing the right delivery partner

24

Spinning the web

26

The bigger picture

28

Stock exchange Investigating Epos management

Profiling three UK independent retailers who have made the successful

30

Show me the money

transition from store to online

Discover the challenges of website design

Factoring returns into your business plan

The dos and don’ts of making your product stand out online

Why choosing the right payment provider can make all the difference at checkout

Expert advice on issues from SEO to personalising your online store

WWW.mWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

MAY 2014 | MULTI-CHANNEL | 22

Jules B HQ

IN WITH “THE CLICK” With e-commerce sales continuing to rise, more and more players are competing for a slice of the online cake. Indies are also increasingly embracing multi-channel retailing and, with the right amount of investment and commitment, the rewards can be significant. Tom Bottomley looks at the factors driving the sector.

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A recent survey among independent retailers carried out by mWB revealed that of the 88.6 per cent of the retailers who said they had a website, an impressive 62.9 per cent said it was transactional, while a whopping 97 per cent of retailers surveyed stated they would like to grow their e-commerce arm. And although the competition only getting tougher, it seems that online retailing is big business indeed.

One couple that has taken the online bull by the horns is Julian and Rhona Blades with their North-East based Jules B business. Their investment into e-commerce came in 2009, at a time when they were looking to expand their bricks-and-mortar side but failed to secure new premises – something that Julian now seems thankful for.

“There was a demise in footfall, and we had two ways to approach it,” he says. “One was to become bigger shop-wise, the other was to go down the internet route which, at the time, we knew nothing about. We had our hearts set on developing a retail site next to our existing shop

in Jesmond. It was a considerable size, but we got gazumped at the last minute by Waitrose. It didn’t seem good at the time, but now it’s the best thing that ever happened.”

Having reconsidered their strategy, Jules B’s internet business started off small, but very quickly they saw encouraging signs using Google’s “pay per click” advertising, with solid return on investment. “For every £1,000 we spent, we could get £10,000 back in turnover,” says Julian.

The business may have been growing organically, but it was also growing at a phenomenal rate. “We invested all the time and, once I saw this recipe working, I wasn’t afraid to throw money at it because you could quantify your return,” he says. Five years on, Jules B is turning over around £6m on the net, with a forecast for the coming year at £7m, and is employing around 45 people. The nine Jules B shops (six women’s and three men’s) are an integral part of the business, effectively not only shops but warehouses with their own “fulfilment rooms”, where goods are sent out to the

customers based on an Epos system that picks and allocates the stock per store.

It’s fair to say that the phenomenal growth of e-commerce has permeated every element of the retail sector, offering not just the big players, but also independents ample opportunity to get a slice of the online cake. What’s also now changing the goalposts is the growth of shopping from mobile phones and tablets. John Mercer, senior analyst at market research specialists Mintel, says, “Smartphones have the potential to change shopper behaviour. It means consumers are constantly shopping and they can turn ‘down-time’ into browsing and shopping time. It means they are better equipped to compare products, prices and retailers.”

A new study by IMRG, the Interactive Media in Retail Group, the UK’s industry association for e-retail, has revealed that 11 per cent of retailers expect more than 50 per cent of their online sales to come via mobile by the end of 2014, a figure up from just four per cent of retailers in 2013 – which shows just how fast times are changing.

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MAY 2014 | MULTI-CHANNEL | 23

“Smartphones have the potential to change shopper behaviour. It means consumers are constantly shopping, and they can turn ‘down-time’ into browsing and shopping time. It means they are better equipped to compare products, prices and retailers”

But having a transactional website works both ways and can also stimulate footfall into store. Interestingly, Bruno Berthezene, managing director of Solocal Group UK, a leader in local digital marketing services, says that 34 per cent of UK consumers were found to look at a product online before making a purchase in-store – a trend called “reverse showrooming”.

He also says that in spite of the growth of online commerce, the majority of UK retail purchases still take place in physical stores today.

“Customers have a strong preference for buying in shops, allowing them to touch and see items or try on clothes before deciding to purchase, and also get their goods immediately without having to wait for a delivery,” says Berthezene.

“Independent retailers can stand out by offering their customers the combined advantages retail e-players can offer such as online catalogues, product inventory, online payment and so on, with the advantages of having a physical store through click and collect, for instance. Customers are increasingly looking for flexibility in the act of

purchase, and want to be able to choose how, when and where they will pay for their item and receive it.”

According to market analyst Verdict, growth in the clothing and footwear online market is forecast to slow in the coming five years to 2019, with a rate of 80 per cent compared to 165 per cent growth in the preceding five-year period due to the maturity of retailers’ online operations.

Though it might not be such phenomenal growth, as is the case with online fashion giant Asos, it’s hardly to be sniffed at.

Giulio Cinque, owner of independent women’s and men’s boutique Giulio in Cambridge, has so far not taken a transactional website route.

Instead, he works with Farfetch, the e-commerce company that was launched in 2008 to act as a platform for independent boutiques worldwide to realise their global sales potential with minimum risk. They simply take a percentage of sales. “I can’t comment on the traffic I would get globally if I did have my own transactional website, “ says Cinque. “But I can tell you that with Farfetch I’m now shipping to 30 different countries, and it represents 30 per cent of our turnover after just three years.”

Cinque says an advantage of using a site such as Farfetch is that it offers a ready-made infrastructure with a specially built digital management system, including all the marketing.

“It’s given me a real opportunity to ‘get out there’,” says Cinque. “It certainly provides a small fish in a big pond the opportunity to have a much stronger presence without the huge investment required by independents standing alone in the worldwide web.”

Whichever way indies choose to tap into ecommerce, there’s no doubt that the rewards can be significant – but only if retailers are committed to making a proper investment in terms of finances, resources and time.

According to Julian Blades, a lot of retailers don’t take having an internet business seriously enough, and they don’t understand the

complications involved with running a website.

“It’s very involved,” he says. “When I look at some of my contemporaries who started off with websites at the same time as us, they underestimated the level of investment that is required.

“Our timing, from when we started, was also quite clinical, because we could grow organically,” Blades continues. “Now there is a lot more competition in the marketplace. After 28 years of retailing, within five years the internet has become 60 per cent of the business turnover. But we have a marketing department and people employed just to constantly do affiliate advertising. We also have people employed to do ‘pay per click’. We have four full-time photographers and four content writers, as well as packing staff and so on.

Without all of that, you may as well not bother getting out of bed.”

There’s no doubt that fashion e-commerce is here to stay, and it’s clear that going forward it will become much more of a cross-channel experience of bricks and mortar and their online counterparts.

Customers will increasingly demand flexibility and diversity in the way they shop, switching between purchasing clothes online or just browsing and “showrooming”, and visiting a bricks-and-mortar store to buy or vice versa, and it’s something retailers will have to put more emphasis on.

Cinque seconds this. Internet sales through Farfetch may represent 30 per cent of his turnover, but he believes it’s all relative because bricks-and-mortar sales have shrunk. “What it’s done is contribute to maintaining an acceptable turnover,” he says. “I think it’s important to have ‘bricks and clicks’. We’re making a big effort to love our customer more in-store and, because we have the shop, we have an emotional attachment with our customers. Whereas when you think about the likes of Net a Porter, you think of a warehouse. So we feel strongly about our bricks-and-mortar business, and that’s what we’re putting a big focus on.” Spoken like a true retailer.

WWW.mWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

MAY 2014 | WEB DESIGN | 24

SPINNING THE WEB Launching a transactional website can be a valuable extension of a bricks-and-mortar store, but for many indies it can be a daunting task. Isabella Griffiths quizzes Tim Johnson, director at leading e-commerce provider Visualsoft, about the key to a successful multi-channel operation and the pitfalls to avoid.

—

For many smaller businesses, the world of ecommerce can be a minefield, and indies in particular often struggle with where to start when it comes to translating their bricks-andmortar experience into a viable online arm. “you need to treat the launch of a transactional website like you would the opening of another shop, both in terms of investment and what you would do to make that additional branch work,” says Tim Johnson, director at e-commerce provider Visualsoft, which specialises in the design, build and marketing of online stores, and who has worked with more than 500 independent businesses across a variety of industry sectors, including fashion indies such as Jules B, Havetolove, Cricket and Psyche.

“A typical mistake that indies make is that they build a website and just expect it to generate lots of business, but that’s not how it works,” he

continues. “you get out of it what you put in. In a bricks-and-mortar store, you would merchandise properly, market the shop properly, cross-sell and up-sell, and you have to do the same online.

A lot of stores try e-commerce, it doesn’t meet their expectations and they write it off, but the rewards are still up there for grabs – you just have to do it properly.”

For many indies thinking about launching e-commerce or indeed improving their existing set-up, the question of how much investment is needed is often the most tricky one. “A minimum investment is around £3,000 for a functional startup site; if it’s less, it’s usually not a good enough solution,” says Johnson. “Obviously, for more advanced sites, the cost goes up proportionately with features and additional functionality. For existing websites that require a redesign or relaunch, we are typically looking at

an investment of between £5,000 and £10,000.”

Keeping the website functional, easy to navigate and user-friendly are fundamental rules every retailer venturing into e-commerce should adhere to. Johnson says, “Don’t try to reinvent the wheel. A lot of indies over-think the design and want to be different. For instance, you usually have the basket in the top-right corner, so don’t try to place it in the bottom-left, for example, as it ends up being a case of style over function and can easily alienate customers. you have to follow the fundamental rules of a bricks-and-mortar shop online, too. In a bricks-and-mortar store, you wouldn’t put your front door in the back and the till in the warehouse just to be different, so why would you do that online? There are certain industry standards that customers expect and are used to.

“On the internet, your customer is only ever

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MAY 2014 | WEB DESIGN | 25

THE E-COmmERCE START-UP GUIdE

By Visualsoft two clicks away from your competitors,” he continues. “Users will only spend a few minutes on the website, so you have to create as few steps from product to checkout as possible to convert the visit into a sale. Functionality, usability and ease of navigation are key.”

Johnson advises retailers to think carefully about the design of their web presence and the image it portrays about the business. “Online users will make an assumption about the quality of your online store within three to five seconds of clicking on your site, so you have to ensure that you present a trustworthy and professional environment, especially when you work in the branded and premium sector,” he says. “So think about good product presentation and photography, the amount of product available and how you merchandise it.

“A lot of indies also get it wrong by wasting much of their homepage on talking about their bricks-and-mortar store instead of a strong product presentation,” Johnson continues. “The reality is that most of your online visitors are not local, and they don’t care about your bricks-andmortar store – they are on your website because they want to buy your product so, again, make it as easy as possible. By all means put a picture of your store on the ‘contacts’ page to add credibility to your operation, but don’t be tempted to waste the homepage on it.”

Ultimately, the success of an e-commerce arm depends on many factors, but Johnson advocates that, if done properly, it is an investment that is set to enhance a business and put it on a good footing for future growth, as ecommerce continues to rise. And with mobile commerce accelerating the online marketplace even further, he recommends that retailers also think about the future development potential of their sites.

“Mobile technology is the key driver of the future; between 30 and 50 per cent of fashion websites generate their traffic through mobile devices. On some sites it’s as much as 70 per cent, especially where it’s backed by a strong socialmedia campaign, because people spend hours on their phones and tablets on social media,” says Johnson. “So if you’re making an investment in a website, it’s worth thinking about future proofing it for the mobile customer also.”

Responsive design – where the site recognises whether it’s being viewed on a desktop, tablet or mobile device and adapts the viewing experience accordingly – may be the buzzword here, but Johnson says that this is often costly, and that more budget-friendly alternatives do exist. “Responsive design is quite expensive, but if you’re on a budget, we normally recommend to build your website and include a mobile site, so both are covered,” he says. “It is a good compromise, and a lot cheaper to implement.”

Complex as the world of e-commerce may be, Johnson is convinced that it’s the only way to go for any business wanting to survive and thrive.

“The future is definitely online – that’s a reality,” he says. “If stores don’t adapt, they will be left behind, whether you like it or not. A new generation of consumer is coming through that has grown up with the internet and mobile devices, and this will continue to drive and shape the retail sector.”

HAVE A PL AN Even if you don’t have an incredibly detailed business plan, it’s wise to have an idea of what you expect your store to achieve in its first year and map out what actions you need to take to make it happen. Be realistic, and be prepared to change your plan along the way in response to a fast-moving sector.

SE C U R E YO U R DO M AI N You need to purchase your store’s domain as soon as possible to make sure you don’t miss out on a name that’s easy to remember and appropriate for your business.

GE T BR ANDE D Your new online business will need a logo that will feature on your store, as well as related material such as invoices and emails, so it’s important to get a professionally designed logo that projects the right image for your store and can be easily applied to everything and anything you might need depending on the growth of your business. Investing in a strong identity early on can avoid the need for expensive redesign costs later down the line.

SE T U P A M E RC HANT AC C O U NT A merchant account is a type of bank account that allows you to accept payment from shoppers’ credit cards. If you don’t already have a merchant account, speak to your bank about getting one set up.

Alternatively, some payment gateway providers can supply them.

APPLY F O R A PAYM E NT GAT EWAY

site’s privacy policy, you may need help from your solicitor or a business development agency.

M AK E DATA DE C I SI O NS To put together a clear structure for your new store, your e-commerce provider will need to know what type of products you’ll be selling and how they can be broken down into sub-departments, and roughly how many products you’ll have available to buy. Also, you’ll need to know how you plan on adding product data to your store (manually, or via spread sheet import or Epos integration).

K NOW YO U R C U STO M E R S The more you can learn about your target market, the better, as the data can inform what you stock, how your store looks etc.

Find out what your potential customers want from a store, what they don’t and, ultimately, what motivates them to buy.

I M PR E SSI VE I M AGE S When selling online, the quality of your products are often judged on the quality of your images, so shoddy pictures are a quick way to lose potential customers. It might be worth engaging a photographer with the right experience to deliver product shots that are attractive and show a good level of detail.

SI Z E U P YO U R C O M PE T I T I O N It’s useful to do market research and look at potential competitors selling online, and make note of their pricing, approach and aesthetic so you can use the information to inform how you will – or won’t – do things with your own online store.

C O NSI DE R PRO M OT I O NS AND M AR K E T I NG

To process online payments, your store needs a payment gateway to allow the secure transfer of credit card funds from shoppers to your merchant account. The application for a payment gateway can sometimes take several weeks, so it’s best to begin the process as early as possible.

Like any retail business, merely existing isn’t enough to attract customers. It’s essential that you think about what promotions and incentives you’ll offer, and how you will market your business on an ongoing basis once it’s launched.

C O NSI DE R C O NT E NT

PI C K T HE R I GHT PROVI DE R

Successful stores feature more than just products, so it’s important to think about the additional content of your store sooner rather than later, as it can take time to put together great copy for your returns policy, store history and About Us page etc. In addition, for some content such as your terms and conditions of sale or your

Hundreds of retailers lose a huge amount of time and money on their online stores because they don’t carry out due diligence when choosing an e-commerce provider.

For more information and further tips and advice on all things e-commerce, call Visualsoft on 01642 633 604, email info@visualsoft.co.uk or visit www.visualsoft.co.uk.

THE BIGGER PICTUR E

Fashot

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The quality of photography can be a crucial factor in the success or failure of an e-commerce business, so getting the product presentation right should be top of the agenda for any online business. Isabella Griffiths chatted to two leading experts in e-commerce photography about the dos and don’ts and how to make your products stand out online.

— In e-commerce, the quality of a website and product presentation is the online equivalent of the fascia and shop window of a bricks-andmortar store and instantly tells a story about how credible and professional a business is. Appealing photography is therefore part and parcel of having an attractive website. But it’s not just about aesthetics – presenting products in high-quality images can be the deciding factor between an empty basket or a sale. It’s therefore crucial for anyone with an online presence to consider the strength of their product presentation – and not just as an afterthought.

“Good product photography is vital for any online store, but even more so for a womenswear site. you’ve got to come as close as you can to replicating the in-store experience online,” says John Whalley, group creative director at Photolink Creative Group, one of the leading agencies specialising in product photography, design and strategy for e-commerce businesses.

“A lot of start-ups or smaller businesses make the fundamental error of underestimating the importance of their photography,” he continues.

“But one bad picture can destroy any first impression, and is ultimately a reflection of your brand and store. you have got to be ambitious when it comes to product presentation. If you look at the best websites out there, they are investing more and more money into product presentation, and that’s for a reason, because

there is a direct link between good photography and conversion rates.”

This is mirrored by Lee Friend, CEO and executive producer at Packshot and its fashion arm Fashot, the UK’s largest provider of professional photography to the e-commerce sector, with studios across the UK and several international bases. “A lot of businesses forget to budget for photography, especially smaller ones that are facing big start-up costs,” he says. “But it’s something that needs to be taken seriously and seen as part of the overall investment. The e-commerce sector – especially fashion – is so competitive nowadays that no business, regardless of size, can afford to lag behind. The difference between good and great product presentation is not that dramatic but, if your presentation is bad, it instantly shows and can have a big impact on your sales.”

It’s often the cost factor that leaves retailers unsure about their approach to product presentation and tempts some businesses into cutting corners – at the wrong end, as both experts agree. “In terms of investment, there is no one size fits all approach; it depends on each individual business,” says Whalley. “But professional photography is not as expensive as people might think, especially when you consider the impact on your sales. Professional studios have the set-up and can process any volume of images. It goes without saying that the more styles we process,

the more cost effective it gets. But even smaller businesses shouldn’t be scared of approaching professional companies, as they might be surprised just how worthwhile it is.”

Friend agrees, “It essentially boils down to a simple mathematical exercise as to what kind of photography set-up you can afford and what is right for your business. If it costs you £15 to shoot your garment, but it only retails for £20 or £30, then the figures don’t stack up. But if you’re selling a £300 dress, a £15 investment does make commercial sense, as the better your photography, the more likely it is that you will sell it and avoid returns.”

While employing the services of a professional photography studio may be the ideal scenario, it’s not uncommon for retailers to opt for an in-house set-up. And, while both Friend and Whalley don’t dispute that this can certainly work for businesses, too, they do warn that it also needs to bring professional results, as a visible DIy approach can be detrimental. “There are advantages to both set-ups,” says Whalley. “A professional studio like ours processes thousands of images every month and has years of experience, so there is a certain methodology to what we do that can’t be easily replicated in a back room of a store somewhere.

“There are different layers of expertise that come into play, too – not just the photography aspect itself, but also the sample management and

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MAY 2014 | PHOTOGRAPHY | 27

“A lot of start-ups or smaller businesses make a fundamental error by underestimating the importance of their photography. But one bad picture can destroy any first impression, and is ultimately a reflection of your brand and store.

You have got to be ambitious when it comes to product presentation” ensuring that each style is correctly presented, styled, labeled and accessorised properly etc,” he continues. “There’s nothing worse than not knowing how to style and accessorise a garment for online and it showing on the picture.

The difference between an amateur and professional result is also in post-production – we put a lot of effort into ensuring colour balances and an accurate representation of a garment, which is crucial in avoiding a disappointed customer and returns.”

This is mirrored by Friend, “There’s more to successful product presentation than just the image – it also needs to be captioned properly, have appealing product copy and be professionally SEO embedded etc.”

In terms of presentation styles, approaches vary from site to site between simple product shots, ghost-effect cut-outs, garments on mannequins, models or 360-degree rotation to catwalk and other videos. According to Friend, each presentation style has got its advantages, with a mixture of methods the most desirable, though he concedes that not every business needs an all-singing and all-dancing approach, as long as the overall effect is professional, clean and consistent. “you don’t always need something fancy, and you don’t always need 10 images per garment to create good product presentation,” he says. “There are advantages to all of the different styles used across fashion sites – a simple product shot on a mannequin can work perfectly fine. It often gives better results than a model, because you can’t pin a model! As long as the product is presented clean and professionally, the effect is the same.

“A model shot or video is good for showing how a garment hangs, but it obviously creates additional costs in terms of model, styling and make-up etc,” he continues. “There’s also an

Fashot

JOHN WHALLEY

argument for and against using faces of models in shots. Aside from the obvious styling issue, you have to consider whether a model – and what kind of model – is right to represent the clientele of your business. Obviously, if you’re an Asos-type store and your target group is the young market, then a 20-year-old model will provide a good reflection of your audience. But if you’re dealing with an older clientele, having a young model can often have an alienating effect. Essentially, customers want to see the front, the back and any key defining features of a garment in a detail shot – these are the basics that you need to get right. Use white backgrounds and clean shots and as unobstructed as possible. Some retailers go for fancy backgrounds and gimmicks – keep it clean and leave the dramatics to your web design.”

Whalley paints a similar picture. “The perfect scenario is to have a mixture of styles,” he says. “In terms of stills, you need the front, the back, a detail shot and one hung on a model or a mannequin.

“The next stage would be to produce a video, whether it’s a catwalk or just a simple 360-degree turn, so the consumer can appreciate how the garment hangs and moves,” he continues. “Video drives most conversions – it has been statistically proven. Recent research has shown that 57 per cent of consumers say they are more inclined to buy something after watching a video of a garment. In terms of costs, video is far less of an expensive step-up than people might imagine, because of the technology that nowadays exists on cameras. It’s very easy for us to switch to video mode while we’re shooting, so the investment in video is far less significant than people might assume. There is a common misconception among smaller retailers that they can’t do what the big guys are doing. But the results that businesses can get even on a smaller scale aren’t too far removed from what the market leaders are achieving.”

LEE FRIEND

Whalley agrees with Friend that a consistent methodology, however, is key in the overall presentation online, whatever the final set-up may be. “Inconsistency is the main thing that can damage the confidence of a shopper,” he says. “It often happens when retailers use a mixture of supplied and own images, which can make a site look messy and the product unappealing. you need to have a style and process, and it needs to be consistent. you wouldn’t present messy merchandise in-store, so why would you do it online?”

Whalley’s top tips for anyone venturing into e-commerce are based around four core rules: 1.

Try to recreate the physical in-store experience as effectively as possible online – that means having good silhouette images, 360-degree overviews, garments on models or mannequins and close-ups to get a better feel for a style; 2. Take advantage of technology and make it work for you – deliver something that you couldn’t do in-store, such as advice from the head buyer or designer, style guides to trends and branded films etc. Make it informative and inspirational; 3. Give your customer the confidence to shop with you online – it’s sometimes difficult for a consumer to reach the final decision to buy, so provide more information, better product description and demonstrations to give them the assurance to click and buy; 4. Deliver a good overall experience – make the site usable, fast and efficient and present Dress A with different views and angles, and expect to do exactly the same for Dress B, so your style is consistent and strong.

“Retailers get so caught up in heavy investment in SEO, PPC (pay per click), left or right navigation or fancy web design that they loose sight of the fact that the only thing that’s really going to close a sale is whether a product looks appealing or not.”

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STOCK ExCHANGE Simon Roberts, web consultant at Cybertill, the UK’s leading specialist in Epos management, considers the challenges independent retailers face when managing their bricks-and-mortar store and e-commerce site as one, and what can be done to create a seamless retail experience.

—

One of the biggest challenges for fashion retailers today is successfully managing their store and website as one. Customers want a variety of convenient ways to buy and return goods from retailers, such as Click and Collect – a service some may think isn’t necessary, or easy to do.

Firstly, think about this from a customer’s perspective. I would wager that the majority of you shop online, and I would also wager that most of you have used Click and Collect, whether it is for groceries or for other purchases. Why? It is convenient. And for those who say it cannot be done, there are systems specifically for independent retailers that make selling online and in-store seamless and offering services such as Click and Collect second nature.

As a retailer, there are a number of ways you

can manage your store and website. One option is to either buy or lease a multi-channel system – this is a combined Epos and e-commerce system.

Alternatively, you can install an Epos system and link it to a separate e-commerce platform. A general recommendation would be the former, with a proviso that the multi-channel system must offer live stock levels across the business. Live stock levels mean that retailers only sell the stock they have, and customers can shop online in confidence knowing what they buy is actually available. If you do choose to have a separate Epos and e-commerce system, you need to check how often the Epos system updates the stock levels to the e-commerce site, as you will want this to be as close to real time as possible.

Of course, there are good reasons to have a separate Epos and e-commerce system, otherwise

businesses would not do it. But it will mean working with two separate suppliers and managing how they work together.

So for those retailers starting off who do not have a website, and have yet to invest in an Epos system, where should they start? Before beginning to look for, or at, systems, make a list of what you want an Epos and e-commerce system to do. Also think about what information you want from the system to manage your business.

There are certain things a fashion retailer must have. For example, they need to make sure the Epos and e-commerce system can manage matrix products, ie products that come in different colours and sizes. It may sound obvious, but there are systems that do not drill down to that level of detail.

Primarily, it is about the information a retailer

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pulls out of the Epos system that helps them manage their business – orders, stock levels, most profitable products, fulfilment and optimisation of stock on the shop floor, promotions and loyalty.

There is a whole host of functionality that fashion retailers often need, and the key word for these requirements is “flexibility”: • Can you run promotions in-store and not online, and vice versa?

• Will you charge different prices for the same products in different stores or online?

• Will you have a points scheme, discount or reward-based loyalty programme?

• Will you run a wide variety of promotions, will you want to be able to track customer spend in-store and online?

• Would you offer different customers different prices, eg VIP customers’ special pricing on new lines and product launches?

• How will you manage orders, identify outstanding orders and part-orders? Will you need to be able to calculate your forward ordering levels?

• Would you like payment alerts for suppliers, and manage the return of faulty goods in the Epos system?

• Can it offer staff clocking in and out so you can manage paying staff accurately? What about e-commerce?

• Will you offer Click and Collect, customer reviews and the ability for customers to create wish lists from products on your website?

• How about suggested purchases for customers, and the ability to promote a new season’s line before it arrives?

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“When buying anything for a business, you have to consider your future needs and not just the here and now. It’s akin to when you look at new premises – if the location can’t grow with you and you believe you might outgrow it in six months, you wouldn’t sign a five-year lease for it”

These are just a few points, but every business is unique, so it is important that you spend some time thinking about functionality and what information you will want from the system that will help manage your business.

When buying anything for a business you have to consider your future needs and not just the here and now. It’s akin to when you look at new premises – if the location can’t grow with you and you believe you might outgrow it in six months, you wouldn’t sign a five-year lease for it. It’s the same when buying an Epos and e-commerce system. Will it be able to grow with your business?

For example, if you open a new store, is it easy to install another system? Will you be able to see live stock levels at both stores through the till? If needs be, speak to other fashion stores with the challenges they face.

In terms of upgrading to integrate online, if you just have an Epos system in your store, it all depends on your system. Some Epos providers, such as Cybertill, can also supply their own e-commerce platform, so the system should work seamlessly. Other providers partner with specialist e-commerce solutions. A recommendation would always be that when speaking to an Epos or e-commerce provider, ask how they link to an e-commerce or Epos system. When linking to a separate e-commerce and Epos system, there is usually some software or an application that sits in between them that “translates’” the information and data that passes between the software.

With an e-commerce system, you also need to understand how you can “optimise” a website so it ranks well for relevant searches in Google and other search engines. Any half-decent e-commerce platform should come with tools for you to optimise it. If it does not, steer well clear. If you are not sure how to optimise or improve a website’s performance, ask the provider.

Can they help and provide a service? If you want to use a third party, some retailers will have acquaintances that can offer the service. First and foremost, check what work they have done in the past, whether their customer testimonials are good, and ask them to appraise the optimisation tools on e-commerce systems.

Some web experts make web optimisation – also known as Search Engine Optimisation (SEO) – sound like a dark art. Let me assure, it isn’t. The most important element for any e-commerce website is good, relevant and unique content. Get that right and you will begin to notice the difference in your web rankings. This in turn will boost the number of visitors to your site, and that should see an uplift in transactions.

So with all this in mind, what sort of budget do you need? As with everything in life, you generally get what you pay for. If you want a basic Epos system that helps manage stock levels in-store, you can get them. But if you want to manage your shop and website as one, and have more tools and functionality, you will pay more for a multi-channel system.

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SHOW mE THE mONEY

So you’ve got yourself a website and are ready to start trading online, but one crucial piece in the e-commerce jigsaw is still missing – enabling a secure and efficient checkout. To process payments over the internet, your store needs a payment gateway to facilitate the secure transfer of credit card funds from shoppers into your merchant account. “A payment gateway sits between your website and your bank, encrypting all your credit and debit card data to ensure it cannot be read by anybody else,” says Michael Lane, channel and product director at global independent payment management company Secure Trading. “It should be able to process all major credit and debit cards, and you can also decide whether you want to accept alternative payment methods or different currencies.”

According to Maria Prados, VP global retail at WorldPay, another leading global provider of payment and risk services, finding an experienced and professional payment provider is key in setting up the process. “The complexity of the online payments landscape is the greatest challenge,” she says. “Payment types, speed and fraud are all different online [to bricks and mortar].

It’s important to partner with an experienced payment provider who can help make it simple.

In addition to initial set-up costs related to the integration and compatibility process with the store’s website, retailers have to bear in mind that there will be ongoing overheads relating to each transaction by accepting different payment methods and card providers. While it’s important for any business to keep an eye on overheads and cost structure, Gareth Poppleton, MD of Retail Merchant Services, one of the UK’s fastest-growing independent payment service providers specialising in SMEs, warns that the costs should not be the only factor retailers are taking into the equation. “Costs are obviously important for small businesses, but don’t sacrifice cost for the service and professionalism you receive, as this directly reflects on your image and your customer’s experience,” he says. “A credible company will offer different packages suited to the size and needs of your business but ensure that the payments process is transparent, efficient, cost-effective and, above all, quick and secure.”

Prados agrees that the user experience is key. “The payment process needs to be straightforward and consistent across channels,” she says. “It should be simple to convert sales – for instance through one-click payments – and after-sales processes such as refunds should be equally simple.

Retail Merchant Services

making the online checkout process as easy, quick and secure as possible has to be the priority for multi-channel retailers. Isabella Griffiths chats to experts from leading payment solutions providers about the key to hassle-free online transactions.

—

“Online payments need to be secure, relevant and simple,” Prados continues. “Security is a must for retailers, as it is closely linked to brand trust. Relevancy means offering what the shopper wants, in their preferred payment method, currency and language. Simple is ensuring the process is always straightforward and easy to complete.”

Additional consideration needs to be given to the fact that it’s likely your website will attract international orders at some point, therefore it pays to consider and facilitate overseas transactions, too. “The beauty of e-commerce is its scope,” says Lane. “On the high street, a retailer is restricted to selling to customers that can physically access the shop. But, online, goods can be sold to consumers across the globe. This can be an intimidating prospect for many independent retailers, but advances in technology have meant the whole process can be carried out seamlessly.”

Prados concurs. “Given the increasingly globalised nature of e-commerce, a payment strategy that focuses on the needs of customers around the world is essential to maximise transaction acceptance and expand global reach,” she says. “Currencies, languages, look and feel, cultural issues, shopper expectations and preferred payment methods that locals know and trust are just a few considerations retailers should be aware of. It’s also important to understand the

after-sale service, such as delivery, returns and contact centres.”

Prados’ top tips when it comes to payment processes are clear. “1. Think about payments right from the very beginning when defining the website; 2. Think about the right provider for the long-term, not just today; 3. Get the best solution, not just the cheapest; 4. Don’t assume one size fits all – each channel is different and each country is different; 5. Don’t over-complicate things – simple works best; and, finally, don’t forget what your shopper wants.”

With the continued growth of e-commerce, online transactions are set to become increasingly sophisticated and flexible, changing the payments landscape even further. This is something that, according to Prados, retailers will have to keep adapting to in the future. “We’ll see electronic payments continue to grow, overtaking cash,” she says. “For e-commerce, alternative payments such as non-card methods including e-wallets, mobile payments etc, will overtake cards.

“Our recent Global Guide to Alternative Payments report predicts this will happen by 2017,” Prados continues. “As online shoppers get savvier, they will expect more and more from the checkout process. Retailers will have to deliver a true omnichannel proposition at checkout, offering a consistent experience across different channels and devices.”

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signed, sealed, delivered For retailers expanding into e-commerce, choosing the right delivery partner is essential when it comes to the successful completion of online purchases. Christina Williams investigates the options available to the small store owner.

—

From browsing an entire collection from the comfort of his own home to the flexibility of 24-hour availability, the online shopper certainly has a host of advantages available that give him the edge over the bricks-and-mortar counterpart.

However, as popular as online retail has become, there is one aspect of e-commerce that simply cannot compete with actual shopping, and it’s the reason for 60 per cent of abandoned virtual shopping baskets* at the point of checkout.

Delivery – and all its associated complications – is the stumbling block for many a would-be online shopper, and it’s the final challenge for retailers looking to sell to a host of keen customers who want their products, and who want them right now.

In response to the growing demand for the delivery of goods that rivals the immediacy of physical shopping, the logistics sector has

undergone somewhat of a revolution in recent years. Tracked delivery, express services, clicking and collecting and Collect + are just some of the advancements that have been made by providers as logistics firms get increasingly innovative in their quest for offering the utmost in convenience.

For the retailer, however, the ever-expanding portfolio of options can make choosing the right partner difficult and, if there’s one thing all logistics providers agree upon, it’s the importance of choosing the right associate.

“A courier should be seen as the extension of a retailer’s offering rather than a separate entity,” says Tara Barnes, head of sales and marketing at APC Overnight. “The online retail sector is as competitive as ever, and being able to manage and meet customer expectations is something that could ultimately make or break any retailer’s future success.”

When it comes to delivery and the impact it

can have on a retailer’s future success, the statistics make for sobering reading. Three out of four customers are unlikely to return to an online retailer if they have a bad delivery or returns experience*. This means retailers have one chance and one chance only to get it right. So, first and foremost, what are the essentials?

“For the small retail business, assuring customers that their orders will arrive on time and in good condition is absolutely essential, so the most important factor to consider in choosing a delivery provider is the reliability of its service,” says Barnes. “The management of customer expectations is also key, so it is perhaps more significant to deliver orders on time than it is to deliver them quickly. That means giving customers an accurate account of when they can expect their delivery, such as the real-time tracking service offered by APC Overnight.”

Of course, customer expectations – and

DICK STEAD

DWAIN MCDONALD

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priorities – can vary depending on the demographic in question; something that should be taken into account at the outset according to parcel carrier Yodel. “The first thing retailers need to do is identify who they are marketing their service to,” says Dick Stead, the company’s executive chairman. “If your customers are predominately teens or young people, they will generally buy a dress on impulse the night before a big event, and their main priority will be receiving that dress the next day.

“So offering a ‘safe place’ delivery – where a parcel is left in a specified location such as a shed – is essential,” he continues. “If your consumer demographic is primarily office-based, their priority will be having the option of collecting a parcel at their convenience outside of normal working hours, and this is where Collect + comes into its own.”

Collect + is an increasingly popular delivery option, whereby couriers work in partnership with a network of convenience stores and petrol stations to allow customers to pick up their parcel at a location convenient to them.

“We work with 5,500 convenience stores, and it’s the fastest-growing area of our business,” says Stead. “I don’t think it will overtake home delivery, but it certainly complements it. For the retailer without a wide, geographical spread, it allows them to replicate the business model of click and collect, which is offered by most highstreet chains. In effect, they gain 5,500 of their own ‘outlets’ from which customers can collect their purchases.”

It’s a nationwide spread rivalled perhaps only by the Post Office – the first port of call for many a small retailer as they make their first foray into the world of e-commerce. With 10,500 branches nationwide, the Post Office offers customers the option of collecting from their local branch, as well as offering the same convenience for returning an item; something that cannot be overlooked when around a quarter of all fashion purchases are returned.

According to Tim Cowen, however, the appeal of the Post Office runs deeper than its geographical spread. “Royal Mail is a well-known brand that customers recognise and trust,” says the director of business relations at the Post Office. “Eighty six per cent of shoppers say they trust Royal Mail*, and 76 per cent say that delivery by Royal Mail would make them revisit an e-tailer*. Customers like to know who will be delivering their items, so it’s important to select the provider that matches your brand – remember that they will be representing you in the final mile of the journey.”

Dwain McDonald, CEO at courier DPD, agrees that the performance of a delivery provider reflects upon the retailer, but argues that good service goes above and beyond the safe delivery of a parcel. “Customers are much more sophisticated these days, and they definitely see smarter delivery solutions as one way of differentiating between retailers,” he says. “DPD’s Predict service notifies recipients of their onehour delivery window by text or email, and customers can then track their driver in real time all the way to their front door. They are also able to access five ‘in-flight’ options – something 10 per cent of our customers take advantage of – whereby they can change the delivery date, request delivery to a specific neighbour or specify a delivery date, even when their parcel is in transit.

The driver will then send confirmation via text, along with a photograph of where the parcel has been left if relevant.”

Such flexibility opens up a whole new host of options for the retailer wanting to maximise the appeal of convenient deliveries. It’s an avenue that is well-trodden by one of the country’s mostestablished couriers, MyHermes, whose Parcel Manager service provides the ability to send an email to the end customer at defined trigger points within 20 minutes of the parcel scan.

“The service provides the client with the opportunity to link their brand with the designated delivery company, and provides the

end consumer with better information about their parcel delivery,” says Jonathan Bennett, head of marketing. “We also recruit couriers from within the area where they live so, if a customer is at work nearby, they are often happy to make the detour to ensure the customer receives their parcel as quickly as possible. We are proud to have a 95 per cent first-time delivery success rate against the industry average of 83 per cent.”

MyHermes places so much emphasis on the importance of the relationship between courier and retailer that it assigns each of its clients a business development manager, whose primary role is to understand the retailer’s business and ensure that they are using the most suitable delivery service.

It’s an approach shared by Yodel, the delivery company that was formed when DHL Domestic merged with former carrier for fashion retailer Littlewoods HDNL. The result is a large, corporate carrier with a focus on small business, as Stead explains. “The interesting thing about Yodel is that we deal with clients from the individual sending a jumper to his or her cousin right up to some of the biggest clothing retailers in the country such as Very and Isme,” he says. “To that end, I don’t know of any logistics company that offers more options than we do from our local courier network through to our man with a van service including geocodes, which can be tracked via Google Maps.”

For Stead, however, the flexibility of options is only representative of how quickly a business can grow and develop once e-commerce comes into play, delivered of course by the right courier.

“Once upon a time, fashion companies started off on a market stall before perhaps opening a store, and then several more stores before setting their sights on international expansion,” he says. “Now all companies can go global from day one thanks to e-commerce, and nothing makes us happier than seeing our Yodel clients flourish into international players.” *Source: Delivery Matters, April 2013, Hall & Partners

“Customers are much more sophisticated these days, and they definitely see smarter delivery solutions as one way of differentiating between retailers”

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DEDICATED TO STYLE

Wholesale enquiries: Dave Snowdon Tel: 07813212416 Email: snowdon.brands@btinternet.com Stockists - collection available at: www.charlesclinkard.co.uk

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MAY 2014 | RETURNS | 36

return to sender dealing with returns is part and parcel of multi-channel retailing, but can be a strain on resources and logistics. isabella griffiths investigates why stores of all sizes have to factor returned goods into their business plan.

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an average of 25-40 per cent of goods bought online are returned, with fashion – and womenswear in particular – among the product categories with the highest returns in the e-commerce sector, bringing with it a whole host of logistical and financial issues. Returns can be costly and time-consuming and have a serious impact on a business’ profitability, so it’s essential that retailers calculate this into in their financial forecasts.

“Returns can be a big headache for e-commerce players,” says Nick McLean, director of products at data analytics and order management platform eCommera. “Factors such as cost of stock, inventory movement and the overheads of managing them are all creating additional issues, and you should factor this into your overall costs, particularly if you are in a high returns category such as fashion.

“Ultimately, you have the double challenge of firstly making an outbound repayment to the customer, in addition to payment on delivery and perhaps returns postage,” he continues.

“Secondly, you have to work out how to re-sell the item as quickly as possible, requiring receipt of goods, appraisal, putting away, update inventory and so on. It can easily take five weeks in the UK between receipt of payment and return item availablity for re-sell – three to five days for customers to receive the item, and often 30 days’ notice period. That 30 days of unknown stock status represents significant working capital.”

This is backed up by Sean Hallows,

operations director at logistics provider Clipper, which recently launched a dedicated returns management service called Boomerang, working with customers such as Asos and John Lewis, as well as an increasing number of smaller stores and brands. “On average, 25 per cent of everything fashion retailers send out comes back,” he says.

“That means 25 per cent of a retailers’ inventory is not available for sale. For any retailer, this is the last thing they want.”

Reducing returns and handling the process effectively is therefore essential in minimising the effect on a store’s working capital and ultimately profitability. “How returns are handled can have a significant impact,” says McLean. “If goods returned to the store are re-sold in-store, this is low impact, but moving product around constitutes one of the highest costs in retail. So if returns need to go back to a warehouse, a significant incremental cost of shipping is incurred. Also, in fashion, goods are often worn and then returned, making it difficult and sometimes impossible to re-sell, bearing the additional risk of increased mark-down. Plus, fast fashion makes the time window for re-sale quite small.”

Returns may pose a significant challenge to retailers, but both Hallows and McLean agree that they are not automatically a bad thing, but just a reality of the multi-channel set-up that retailers have to deal with. “Returns are not necessarily negative,” says McLean. “If you encourage returns to store, you drive incremental footfall, provide

opportunity for personal interaction and can generate better opportunity for selling a substitute or upselling a product. If all of that is dealt with well, it can generate greater revenue and repeat business. Look at the generous policies of Zalando and Asos – if the frequency of purchase is high, returns should be modeled as part of doing business.”

This is mirrored by Hallows. “Returns are just part of the business model,” he says. “When shopping online, customers will make returns, and this is particularly true in fashion because customers cannot try items on. When shopping instore, a woman may try on a size 10, 12 and 14, but she will only purchase one. Online, she will purchase all three with every intention of returning two. That doesn’t reflect on the retailer or the website – it’s just the DNA of online shopping. Also, returns are easier online because they are anonymous; it’s a far cry from queuing up at the customer service desk of a store and explaining why you have changed your mind. It’s fast and convenient – or it should be – and that is why people are shopping online in the first place.

With the volume [of product] that is going online, if you are going to be successful, returns and the customer service element associated with that is just something that you have to deal with.”

Indeed, the way a store handles its returns is directly linked to the overall shopping experience of a customer and the satisfaction with the service received. A clear and jargon-free returns policy that is communicated prominently on the website,

generate greater revenue and repeat business”

Clipper Returns Management

Clipper Returns Management

Hallows adds, “People generally perceive [a good] customer experience as ordering an item and getting it delivered the next day. But returns are so integrated into the online model of trading that the last point of contact with the retailer is outlining exactly the cost of return – if any – to the likely to be the returns process and experience. customer is as paramount as defining a specific That is true in 25 per cent of cases and is relevant time frame in which returns are accepted. to smaller retailers as well as the big companies.

Different stores offer different returns policies, Also, the speed at which a return is processed is and ultimately it is up to the individual retailer to one of the key deciders in whether a customer will decide whether they want to offer a free delivery come back to shop at a particular retailer. and returns policy, or offer full refunds versus in- Customers expect to receive a full refund quickly, store credits or exchanges. But where a refund is and a customer who is refunded quickly can start granted, it’s important that it is processed as shopping again more quickly.” quickly as possible. Often, an easy and “no While returns will remain par for the course quibbles” policy – where reasonable – is a better of e-commerce, there are ways of minimising them way of handling a return and ensuring a satisfied to a degree. And clear product imagery along customer who is willing to shop on the site again. with detailed descriptions and measurements can Above all, it’s essential to ensure all staff who are be a crucial element in providing an accurate involved in the returns process are just as clear on depiction of a fashion style, particularly in a the policy and procedures to multi-branded environment ensure a smooth and slick where international sizing can “Returns are not operation and customer vary significantly between necessarily negative. If service that reflects well on the countries of origin of the store. you encourage returns to different labels.

“There is no one-size-fitsTechnology, however, is store, you drive all policy,” says McLean. “It playing a big part in all of this, needs to be seen as part of an with increased usage of highincremental footfall, overall proposition and quality photography, videos provide opportunity for customer experience. and catwalk films key. personal interaction and Retailers need to think about Furthermore, new inventions it at a granular level. For such as virtual fitting rooms can generate better example, offer free returns for are being increasingly opportunity for selling a customers who regularly implemented, aiming to spend high value with you overcome the issue of substitute or upselling a with few returns, but charge customers purchasing product. If all of that is for customers who spend little multiple sizes. “Around 50 per dealt with well, it can and return all the time.” cent of items bought online

are returned for reasons of fit,” says Tim Donnelly Smith, marketing director at virtual fitting room provider Fits.me. “This is unsurprising, as it’s difficult for retailers to communicate this to a vast array of differently shaped individuals.

“Since price, colour, texture and quality are the same, uncertainty regarding fit is the only real reason to buy more than one size of the same garment,” he continues. “And it’s understandable – only around 10 per cent of people fall unambiguously into one size when using a size chart. For most, at least one of their measurements will be borderline and/or suggest a different size from their other measurements. A fit tool can remove this uncertainty by letting the shopper see what the different sizes will look like on them.”

According to Donnelly Smith, however, increasing conversion rates has a far greater positive impact on profits than reducing returns.

“Reducing returns is a natural consequence of improving the accuracy of the buying process,” he says. “Take care of the [customer’s] buying process, and the returns rate will take care of itself.”

There’s a general consensus among e-commerce experts that return rates will remain stable or rise in line with underlying growth in ecommerce revenues. So retailers will have to accept returns as a day-to-day reality of multichannel retailing – and remember that a sale is not final unless and until the customer decides to keep the purchase for good.

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MAY 2014 | E-COMMERCE GUIDE | 38

e-CommerCe essentials mWb brings together six of the uk’s key experts in online retailing and marketing to consider the many issues independent retailers face when launching online, from the new-age issue of seo through to translating your bricks-and-mortar store on the web.

— Personalisation: Your site’s sourCe oF suCCess mike harris, vP emea at marketing acceleration company monetate www.monetate.com “It’s getting harder and harder to stand out in the cut and thrust world of e-commerce. The low startup costs and direct access to the mass audience of the World Wide Web means that it’s easier than ever to start an online business and achieve a level of success that would have been almost impossible a decade or two ago. On the other hand, this means that more and more people are setting up shop, making it tougher to stand out from the crowd.

The rising expectations of the consumer are making it even more difficult. As business becomes more focused on the consumer, the individual’s voice has become more powerful. This is amplified by social media, online reviews and blogging, all of which nurture an increasing focus on the importance of self. Even the Oxford Dictionary’s Word of the Year in 2013 mirrored this – ‘selfie’; something defined by both technology and the individual.

This new breed of empowered consumer means retailers must tailor their approach on a person-by-person basis. Now that 32 per cent of users will abandon a web page if it doesn’t load in under five seconds, online retailers have an increasingly short amount of time to engage a customer. This makes personalisation the key to success for smaller online brands. After all, you are competing directly with retail giants.

Think of something as simple as being on a product page for a jumper. Thanks to their previous experiences with Amazon or eBay, a user expects to see an array of other, similar jumpers recommended – maybe even related accessories.

If this isn’t the case, or non-relevant items are shown, consumers won’t wait around to trawl through your online inventory.

Going without any kind of recommendations is one option but, with consumers’ decreasing attention spans and the competition using these techniques, it’s not likely a consumer is going to head back to the previous page and begin browsing again. Instead, they will move to another site. This highlights the importance of having something as simple as a recommendation system

that keeps the user focused and moving through your site. The more informed the recommendation is – whether through personal preference, age or by knowing the local weather – the higher the chance you will make a sale.

Another vital element of personalisation is making sure that your online retail shop has the appropriate device support. Mobile and smart devices are integrated into our everyday lives; many of us don’t leave the house without a phone, and it is now a part of the shopping experience.

Many people browse online shops on their handheld device, and it is increasingly common for purchases to be made through them.

In Q4 of 2013, only 73 per cent of visits to an e-commerce site were from a traditional device (laptops and desktops), with 14 per cent from tablets and 12 per cent from smartphones. On first glance, these figures might not seem all that shocking, but consider that in the same period of 2012, traditional devices made up 82 per cent of traffic. With the increasing adoption of 4G allowing faster access to online stores, this will continue to grow.

These statistics further support our ‘selfie’ theory. Consumers are internally focused and motivated – they want to shop whenever, wherever and on whatever device they choose, all while expecting the same level of seamless service across all platforms and channels. This is true whether they are dealing with Amazon or a small business operating from a bedroom.

Although this consumer demand might seem daunting at first, there are solutions out there.

“Another vital element of personalisation is making sure that your online retail shop has the appropriate device support. Mobile and smart devices are integrated into our everyday lives; many of us don’t leave the house without a phone, and it is now a part of the shopping experience”

With the explosion of consumer technology and better use of big data, there has been an expansion of tools that will assist retailers in better understanding their customers and allow them to take action based on those insights to personalise and improve the experience. Designed to meet the needs of retailers and marketers, little to no technical experience is required.

Personalisation has the ability to transform an e-commerce site and make it stand out from its competitors. To run a successful online store, the rise of the self means that the customer needs to be catered for as an individual, making selecting the right technology critical. The online environment has created a paradigm shift – where traditionally you would go local for a personalised shopping experience, larger businesses and their use of big data are creating the opposite effect online. It is time for small businesses to get in the game and reclaim personalisation as their own.”

digital Fashion marketing: Who’s getting it right? kestrel lemen, marketing strategist at bronto software, which provides a marketing platform for retailers www.bronto.co.uk “Fashion mavens constantly look ahead to the next big trends on the catwalk, but are fashion marketers doing the same? For the past few years, the growth of online retail has surpassed sales increases on the high street and, accordingly, brands need to embrace this digital revolution in their customer communications.

When developing an effective digital marketing strategy, some brands fall at the first hurdle – capturing data. Brands that incorporate an enticing sign-up on their websites will build a larger database of potential customers and their subscribers will be more likely to engage with them. Because email marketing is directly linked with sales, the number of subscribers a brand has is a key revenue driver.

A tantalising message, rather than the standard newsletter sign-up method, will deliver

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MAY 2014 | E-COMMERCE GUIDE | 39

“Typically, only five per cent of a site’s new visitors ever return, and only three per cent go on to make another purchase. This means that brands must work harder to stay relevant to their audience and help to foster more loyalty” far better results. As an example, Les 100 Ciels, a clothing boutique, invites visitors to ‘join the community’, creating a sense of humanity. A popup, such as Austique’s email sign-up box, is another great method for data capture as it often leads to as much as a tenfold increase in the number of subscribers.

After the initial appeal for information, the next challenge is creating a flow of content to engage new customers digitally. Typically, only five per cent of a site’s new visitors ever return, and only three per cent go on to make another purchase. This means that brands must work harder to stay relevant to their audience and help to foster more loyalty.

There are a number of revenue-driving email examples, such as a sneak peek of new products, style guides (what to wear with what?), VIP clubs for customers who frequently make purchases or high-value orders, and more. Childsplay Clothing takes customer loyalty to the next level with its online loyalty scheme by offering a 30 per cent off code solely to VIP customers. However, exclusive content doesn’t have to be discount-based – benefits such as free delivery, faster shipping or exclusive sales are also effective. The key is making customers feel they are appreciated.

It can be challenging to communicate in a relevant way to a large number of subscribers. If you could address each one of them individually, your marketing would be more effective. By utilising automation tools within your digital marketing platform, you can personalise messages on a large scale. Hudson Shoes, for example, uses a date-based trigger to reach out to customers on their birthday, offering them an exclusive discount code as a special gift.

Creating these messages will all be for nothing if retailers don’t stay tech savvy. Nearly half of all emails get opened on a mobile device, so emails that don’t display well on a mobile device are essentially wasted. It’s important that marketers consider creating emails using responsive design, which will adjust the message to fit the device it is being viewed on, or another mobile-friendly design method. By utilising responsive design, Toms’ emails adapt well to mobile phones – for example, the call to action appears larger.

As illustrated, the rise of digital interaction completely changed the relationship between consumers and fashion retailers. But it’s clear that an innovative strategy, combined with the right

marketing platform, can foster long-term customer relationships and significantly increase online profits.”

should i Convert to mobile Pos, or keeP a degree oF Fixed Pos? roY PatriCk, multi-channel product director at computer hardware company micros www.micros.com “This is the question currently on the mind of many retailers.

It’s undisputable that mobile devices are changing the face of retail as we know it, from the flexibility of having hand-held devices that deliver a host of features, such as mobile PoS, graphical product ordering of extended ranges and customer relationship management. But the challenge for retailers is getting the right balance of mobility and fixed PoS touch points.

Mobility brings with it many benefits; motivating store staff to interact with customers, improving the customer service and as a result sales, but can it deliver the same impact across all retail sectors with varying target audiences?

It was uncovered at NRF that 18-35 year olds, known as the millennial generation, are not impressed with the stereotypical in-store service that we have become accustomed to. They crave for retailers to be both inventive and joined-up with their offering, and expect store staff to be helpful, knowledgeable and equipped to be able to interact in the way the consumer wants rather than how the retailer has interacted traditionally.

Mobility certainly has the power to motivate store staff and add value by arming them with accurate stock data, product knowledge and customer information. However, is it everyone’s cup of tea? Retailers must consider their entire target audience, including the mature shopper and cater to all needs. It is not simply retro fitting a website into store. The interaction is totally different – but one thing all customers have in common is that they desire a better experience.

Individual needs differ, so achieving equilibrium and relevance is imperative.

Other areas to contemplate are the location and size of the store. Realistically, what valueadded services can be offered in each store? Is it an option to start on one device and continue on another, creating a basket with the customer on the shop floor and then paying with cash at a cash drawer? How about the returns of goods, printing of receipts and gift wrapping? These must all be taken into consideration. If you convert to 100 per cent mobile PoS, where in the store would it reside?

Taking all this into consideration, it’s important that retailers think strategically about the rollout of mobile PoS – not only on an individual but store-by-store basis – but also understand the customer and their needs to decide on the best mix of fixed and mobile for that store.”

hoW Can i eFFeCtivelY advertise mY business on the internet? mike seddon, author of simply adwords and founder of adwords management service company internet Jetstream www.internetjetstream.com “Did you know that internet advertising is the most popular advertising medium in the UK? It’s now more popular than TV and newspaper advertising.

There are some good reasons why many businesses are putting more of the advertising budget into online advertising. For one thing, the number of people you can reach with internet advertising is far greater than most other forms of advertising and it’s far cheaper to reach all those people.

Another point in its favour is that it’s far easier to measure success. When you advertise online, you can directly track how many people the advert brings to your website, and you can track how many sales it generates. That isn’t easy to do with other forms of advertising.

By far the best way to advertise on the internet is to use Pay Per Click advertising (often referred to as PPC). Unlike other forms of advertising, with PPC you do not pay for your ads >>>

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to be seen. You only pay when someone clicks on your ad and comes to your website. Hence the name Pay Per Click. You literally pay for each click (ie visitor to your website).

This is what makes PPC advertising very attractive. You are paying only if your ad successfully encourages someone to visit your website. With most other forms of advertising, you pay for your ad to be placed somewhere where you hope people will see it. PPC gives you more control over your advertising budgets as you only pay for success.

By far the most popular services to use for PPC advertising are Google Adwords and Facebook’ s own advertising platform.

When you use Google to search for anything, you may have noticed that there are websites listed across the top in a slightly cream colour and also down the right-hand side of the screen. These are ads created using Google Adwords.

Advertisers simply choose the words that they want their ads to appear for whenever those words are typed into Google. These words are called keywords. So if you sell red trousers, you could choose “red” and “trousers” as your keywords.

Adwords is an excellent way to bring buyers to your website, since your ad will appear to them at the point they are actively searching Google looking for your products.

If you use Facebook, you may have noticed the ads down the right-hand side of your Facebook screen, and they also now appear in your news feed.

Facebook advertising works differently to Adwords. In Adwords, you bid on keywords, but in Facebook you bid on groups of people. These groups are selected based on a variety of criteria such as age, gender and location. So if you know your target audience is men aged 50-plus who live in London, you can create ads in Facebook that will appear only to that audience.

If you know people search for your products on Google, clearly Adwords is an excellent choice for you. If your products appeal to a defined demographic, Facebook advertising is something you should consider. Of course, you won’t know until you test it, and that’s usually the best approach.”

hoW to translate Your “briCksand-mortar brand” online Joanna CruiCkshanks, co-founder of Folk, a digital agency that builds e-commerce and brand websites www.wearefolk.com “When it comes to the ‘how’ of translating our in-store excellence online, we must first know our purpose.

Our purpose, our passion, our mantra – whatever we call it – is essentially what defines the excellence that we offer our consumers, and this should guide the ‘how’.

MAY 2014 | E-COMMERCE GUIDE | 40

Is it that you’re passionate about a range of choice, particular colourways and tailoring details, or that your products all echo one particular style? It’s important to take time to plot out what constitutes that uniqueness about your brand. Then, and only then, can you determine what it is that needs to be translated into a digital experience.

In the same way, a consistent approach to translating your brand into multi-channel is dependent on a deep understanding of your ‘why’.

We believe that if you take the time to truly understand why you do what you do, you will create one experience across any variety of channels, effortlessly.

Because all your ideas come from one central source, they come more naturally, rather than having to conjure up different ideas for different channels.

The problem-free transition thatNet a Porter demonstrated moving into the ‘physical’ realm with its shoppable magazine, Porter, is a great example.

In order to craft a consistent customer journey across channels, we must create one united experience that enables consumers to shop with ease, at speed and through the most useful means.

Key factors impacting the quality of this experience include the degree to which a consumer can interact with different channels interchangeably for browsing, buying and returning, and the extent to which you translate your brand personality through characterful interactive concepts.

When it comes to driving sales and profits across multi-channels, the focus shouldn’t deviate far from what we’ve discussed already.

We have a saying at Folk that we adopted from thought leader Simon Sinek about inspiring others – that people don’t buy what you do; they buy why you do it.

When you craft everything starting from the “why”, the sales and profits will be driven by a tribe of people who love your brand because they feel much more connected to it, rather than experiencing it as a separate entity serving a function.

It won’t be long before selling for selling’s sake becomes old hat, and retailers will be powerless to part consumers from their hardearned cash.

Crafting an experience that takes advantage of the likemindedness between your brand’s purpose and the purpose of your consumers will be the future of retail.

At Folk, we have a different way of looking at customer loyalty, which we call the Brand Universe.

Instead of dedicating efforts to stretching the two per cent conversion minority, we focus on engaging the 98 per cent of disconnected passers-by, through inspiring content that communicates your brand story.

From this audience, we nurture connections to secure new customers, repeat customers and, in time, brand evangelists. We recognise that every touch point is an opportunity to connect with a consumer, and you should, too.”

seo (searCh engine oPtimisation) For Fashion retailers steFan dreW, online marketing specialist and regular bbC contributor www.stefandrew.com “Online shopping is popular.

Even customers who like to shop in physical shops often spend time online before they visit a physical shop.

So how do we ensure that our prospects find our websites? The answer is to get on the first page of the search engines for the products you sell. There are two ways to do this – optimise your website via SEO or advertise via Pay Per Click.

The ideal situation is to appear in the ‘organic search results’ due to good optimisation, as this is free, and use PPC as a back-up. Personally I use both and it works.

Without SEO, search engines will not list your web pages high in their results. Even with SEO there is fierce competition for the top place, with millions of pages competing. The good news is most sites don’t take optimisation seriously.

Unfortunately, many web designers either lack a real understanding of SEO or want to charge extra for it.

Designing and building a website without integral SEO is a bit like selling shoes without heels – they are not extras; they are essential.

When people search online they tend to be specific. For example, a search for ‘shoes’ results in 371 million results. A search for ‘men’s black velour handmade shoes’ gives 10 million results – a huge reduction, proving that specific is better, but there is still a lot of competition.

However, there is a way to get in the top few pages of results, and that is to pay attention to detail in your SEO. Most people make no effort over this, a few make an effort and those in the top results have made the most effort.

The secret is to optimise around 200 details that make up the Google search algorithm, such as writing good web page content designed to be read by people and not search engines, as well as page titles, headlines and ‘meta tags’ eg the meta page descriptor, image tags and so on. The only problem is Google keeps the exact details secret.

Step one is to profile your typical customers and understand what they search for and how they search. What keywords do they use to search? Probably not what you as a retailer would use.

Ensure you cover the items listed above. This will give you a better site than the 98 per cent of people that don’t bother.

Only then consider getting expert help.

Find someone with a track record that you can verify and not someone who blows hot air. A few marketers offer regular free tips on their websites. These are worth reading before employing anyone.”

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MAY 2014 | CASE STUDIES | 42

briCks and CliCks mWb profiles three of the uk’s key independent retailers who have made the successful transition from bricks to clicks, looking at their multi-channel set-up and the lessons they have learned along the way.

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ROWAN HINES

R AVI GR EWAL

OW NE R , RO O M 14 M E NSW E AR , ASHTON-UNDER-LYNE, L ANC ASHI RE

OW NE R , ST UART ’ S LO NDO N, LO NDO N W 12

For any business with aspirations beyond its geographical constraints, successful e-commerce is essential, and it was this realisation that inspired room 14 menswear to replicate its business model online in 2009.

Five years on, Room 14 Menswear’s online operation is accountable for 10-12 per cent of the business’ turnover, and it’s a figure that’s only set to increase, according to owner Rowan Hines.

“Our store was well-known within a small area so, in order for us to have a bigger brand presence, the website had to be the vehicle,” he says. “It’s no secret that it’s tough on the high street, especially if you are in a typical market town such as Ashton-under-Lyne, so we are looking to grow our online operation to around 40 per cent of our overall business.”

Having invested over £10,000 into the website, Room 14 Menswear has also now invested its human resources into the online operation with the appointment of two dedicated professionals to develop its creative and analytical credentials.

“It’s working well so far,” says Hines. “While business is steady online, the growth of the website is our main focus this year. It is why we have brought two people on board – one of whom will focus solely on the back end elements of the site such as the keywords and search engine optimisation.”

At the front end of the site, meanwhile, designers are tasked with replicating Room 14 Menswear’s established identity in a digital format. It’s a level of consistency designed to strengthen the brand across its multimedia platforms, and it’s something that is raising awareness on both a national and international platform.

“We have just completed our latest photo shoot and the images from this will be used across our homepage, social media and mailshots and will be sent out to a selection of fashion blogs,” says Hines. “For a small business like ours, the money we have put in has been a huge investment, but we hope that our marketing will create more business for us in the long run.” www.room14menswear.co.uk —

originally a self-built enterprise, the online operation of stuart’s london now accounts for 60 per cent of the retailer’s business. it’s a substantial development from zero online sales pre-2005 but, according to owner ravi grewal, the implementation of a successful e-commerce arm has been nothing short of labour intensive.

“I initially designed my own website and was disappointed on first launch, so what followed was a substantial investment of time into learning the web business and understanding marketing tools and how best to execute them,” he says. “Generally I was working and researching 16-17 hours a day, six or seven days a week, and kept that up for the first five years.”

Arguably, the results justified the investment. Online sales have not only overtaken their bricks-and-mortar counterparts, but have also boosted them – something that comes as a relief to any business owner who invests into an alternative medium of sales. For Stuart’s London, the launch of the website attracted a whole new demographic, and it was one that came as somewhat of a surprise to Grewal.

“The consumer demographic we have attracted to the website has been very much international, and we are launching extensions of the London website specifically into Australia and the US,” he says. “What has really surprised me, however, is how we have pulled international customers into the store as a result of the website.”

There is, it seems, a direct correlation between the popularity of the website and footfall into Stuart’s West London store. “We have seen growth of around 30-40 per cent in our online sales business year-on-year but, the more the online business grows, the more footfall we see into the store,” says Grewal. “The bricks-and-mortar business is seeing a simultaneous growth of 20-30 per cent year-on-year.”

It’s an impressive dual progression that has left Stuart’s London with only one problem – how best to execute each of its media to maximise sales across its platforms.

“We offer the same stock on the website and in-store but,

WWW.mWb-online.Co.uk

MAY 2014 | CASE STUDIES | 43

ST EVE C O C HR ANE

“We have online staff trained in customer service, efficient courier companies, and we focus on the smaller elements such as using a box to deliver multiple purchases so that packaging is neat”

as the website grows, we will have to be more selective as to what can be displayed in-store due to merchandising space,” says Grewal. “We have to ensure that, while still rotating to give every brand exposure, we are keeping our bestsellers and crowd-pullers on the floor at all times.”

In recognition of the limitless possibilities of online retail, Stuart’s London has launched a whole new website – dandyfellow.com – which exclusively focuses on premium menswear labels.

The site will explore the territories of the menswear industry in a way that simply wouldn’t be feasible for the core Stuart’s London business.

Despite ongoing diversification, however, the retailer is committed to applying consistency across all of its multi-media platforms. “Service is and always will be key,” says Grewal. “We have online staff trained in customer service, efficient courier companies, and we focus on the smaller elements such as using a box to deliver multiple purchases so that packaging is neat.”

It’s a small representation of a flourishing company that is already teetering on the edge of global enterprise. www.stuartslondon.com —

OW NE R , PSYC HE , M I DDLE SBRO U GH, T E E SSI DE should a potential consumer in scandinavia carry out a google search for a Paul smith shirt, one of the first results on the page will be Psyche – the middlesbrough department store located over 1,000 miles away.

For owner Steve Cochrane, it’s the justification for the £60,000 he invested into the store’s website earlier this year, and one of the reasons the website is responsible for 20 per cent of the retailer’s overall business.

“Affiliate marketing has been the key for us,” says Steve Cochrane, who first launched a transactional website in 2002.

“Pay per click and SEO [search engine optimisation] are so essential that we have hired an online marketing person specifically for that role.”

The online marketing manager is accompanied by a dedicated online customer service team, all of whom are trained to have the same product knowledge as the store’s bricks-andmortar staff. The delivery of service regardless of geographical miles is testament to the effectiveness of Psyche’s international presence, but promoting the business on a global platform can be addictive, according to Cochrane. The online marketing has been so successful that he advises other retailers to cap their budget when it comes to optimising results for Google searches.

“It’s easy to get carried away with Google Adwords when you see it is working and driving traffic to the site,” says Cochrane. “But, if you’re not careful, money can run away with you. There is a steep learning curve with online because it is such a different model to bricks and mortar.”

It’s a curve, however, that Psyche has conquered. Following the relaunch of its site earlier this year, the business now predicts that the website will be accountable for 30-40 per cent of its sales by the end of the year. More importantly, it’s a growth that has not been at the expense of the retailer’s core bricks-andmortar model; on the contrary, Psyche is looking at opening a second store in a different city in the near future.

“People will look at the website and then come into the store to buy,” says Cochrane. “We are happy with the direction in which the website is going and how it is fuelling the overall business.”

Despite the website’s success, however, Cochrane’s eyes have been opened to a new category of risk related to the innovative crimes of web-based sales.

“I have been surprised at the level of crime happening online,” he says. “We have had people buy goods and send fakes back as returns, and there is a level of online shoplifting – where people use a stolen credit card to buy a large amount of stock – for which there is very little policing. The law is great when it comes to stealing from a store, but there needs to be an increase in the help available for online theft.”

Despite the risks, however, Cochrane is in no doubt that the website has been – and will continue to be – an essential element of contemporary trading. www.psyche.co.uk —

MAY 2014 | MID-SEASON | 46

Favourite toPPing mWb profiles the key labels presenting short-order, mid-season and flash collections, perfect for topping up your s/s 14 offer.

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6th sense established: 2006 the story: 6th Sense is the brainchild of Irish designer and entrepreneur Dermot Fadden, and has grown from a shirt line to a full wardrobe collection. signature style: Classic dressing for the contemporary man, with polos and checked shirts standing as two collection highlights. target customer: 25-plus Wholesale price: £12-£30 Contact: 020 3432 6387

rasCals

bellField

established: 2008 the story: Rascals was established by two brothers inspired by the underground street culture that is prominent in Copenhagen. The brand’s No History slogan is a reference to the fact that Rascals does not pretend to come from a grand heritage. signature style: Wearable Danish streetwear influenced by 90s athleticwear and modern sport-tech details. target customer: 18-30 Wholesale price: £12-£68 Contact: 020 7377 9083

established: 2011 the story: Launched in London by a group of young creatives, looking to reclaim branded fashion for indies but without breaking the bank. signature style: Heritage feel with a modern take. target customer: 18-30 Wholesale price: £6-£20 Contact: 020 7739 7620 or 0161 230 7312

MAY 2014 | MID-SEASON | 47

voi Jeans

good For nothing

established: 1988 the story: A key name in the denim sector, British label Voi Jeans offers a wide selection of in-season stock, covering not only denim, but wardrobe essentials such as shirting, jumpers and outerwear. signature style: Technical fabrics such as zip detailing, PU trims and cut-and-sew panels dominate each collection. target customer: 18-35 Wholesale price: £8-£34 Contact: 01772 841973

established: 2011 the story: Launched by two friends from Manchester, the original idea for Good For Nothing came in August 2011, when 18-year-old Jack McLeish felt that branded fashion that was on-trend and not too expensive wasn’t catered for. He started designing T-shirts and, along with co-founder Sean Anderson, set up the business, initially selling the brand through Facebook. signature style: A streetwear vibe. Key pieces include the Escape print, featuring the trademark butterfly logo, and the Pinstripe Jersey, a retro baseball top with Good For Nothing logo.

target customer: 16-25 unisex Wholesale price: From £9.26 Contact: 0161 834 9422

gabiCCi vintage

blue Collar Worker

established: 1973 the story: Since its launch in 1973, Gabicci Vintage has been the uniform of the non-conformist.

From Bob Marley and The Specials to Labrynth and Maverick Sabre the brand, Gabicci has been embraced by musical revolutionaries and trendled icons. signature style: Clean-lined silhouettes, casual sensibilities and a fastidious attention to detail have helped to define Gabicci as the go-to British clothing brand for the sartorially savvy. Think statement-making knitwear, slim-fit button-down shirts and semi-structured tailored jackets. Wholesale price: £16.50-£80 target customer: 18-35 Contact: 01442 233700

established: 2010 the story: The label was founded

by London designer Tim Browne, whose strengths are noted as his unique attention to detail, in particular in terms of functionality.

Put simply, Blue Collar Worker is a “no nonsense brand, not subject to the fickle vagaries of fashion,” according to Browne. signature style: Stylish workwear, including a limited-edition range of Japanese selvage denim. Each piece is numbered 1-150. target customer: 25-plus Wholesale price: £80-£150 Contact: 07890 994874

Future Cut Cloths

tWo angle

established: 2013 the story: The brand was launched by economics graduate Rohan Bassi, following the lack of job opportunity’s available after leaving university and with a background and passion for design in 2013. Future Cut Cloths was conceived from the beginning as a way of promoting home-grown British design, with everything created and developed at its HQ in Nottingham. signature style: Layered look, skin-tight joggers teamed with shorts and an extended tee with side zips under a boxy fit oversized one, utilising summer Wholesale price: £10-£22 floral and renaissance prints.

Contact: 07590 020225 target customer: 16-25 unisex

established: 1999 the story: Born out of a collaboration between a New York designer and French style office in 1999, Two Angle shows its mix of French and American culture since its birth. The brand’s inspiration derives from street style in Paris and New York – continuously developing new designs and silhouettes while updating key looks from previous lines to stay true to its customer. signature style: The Tiflor jacket – a bomber style with purple floral print sleeves, grey wool panels and internal quilting in purple. Buyers can expect target customer: 18-29 duck feather for additional Wholesale price: From £12.50 warmth and comfort.

Contact: 0161 272 9381 >>>

MAY 2014 | MID-SEASON | 48

meCCaniCa

d555

established: 2013 the story: Hailing from Cheshire, with a background in retail, founder Colin Ball was keen to create British-made quality products catering for everyone – from cycling experts looking for technical clothing to the fashion-savvy male – and refuses to believe good style design must be forfeited for functionality. signature style: Made entirely in the UK, the collection is produced from the highest quality materials, inspired by racers of cycles and motorcycles from the 50s, 60s and 70s. The aim being you can wear it anywhere, on and off the target customer: 18-60 bike, mixing classic leisurewear Wholesale price: £23-£49 with contemporary style.

Contact: 0161 212 7441

established: 1996 the story: D555 was launched by the Bassi family in Nottingham as a contemporary lifestyle label. D555 now grown into an inventive British brand, and is stocked throughout Europe. signature style: Classic, casual menswear, spanning denim, T-shirts, outerwear, underwear and accessories. target customer: 18-35 plus across sub-lines D555 Blu, D555 Red and D555 Green Wholesale price: £3.99-£7.99 Contact: 0115 977 0009

native Youth

Wåven

established: 2012 the story: Designed in Manchester, Native Youth was conceived with the intent to create socially relevant menswear, aimed at showcasing the eccentricities of British design with an expanded design direction. signature style: Super wearable and rich in subtle as well as offbeat detailing. target customer: 18-35 Wholesale price: £7-£18.50 Contact: 020 7739 7620

established: 2014 the story: Contemporary denim label Wåven is the brainchild of denim enthusiast Anika Islam.

Comprising menswear and womenswear, the brand focuses on minimalist designs and simple clean lines, and draws its inspiration from architecture, the arts and geometry – not dissimilar to a Scandinavian design ethos signature style: Skinny and tapered regular fit denim. Expect minimal, clean branding and detail, with subtle washes across black, grey and rich indigos. target customer: 16-35 Wholesale price: £16-20 Contact: 020 7602 6565

aerosoul limited

sixPaCk FranCe

established: 1998 the story: Designer Leke Adesoye founded Aerosoul back in 1998 in North-West London after training at the London College of Fashion, taking inspiration from the British rave era of the 90s. signature style: Bold graphics, attention to detail, American sportswear influences such as polos, hoodies, sweats, varsity jackets and baseball tees. target customer: 16-45 Wholesale price: T-shirts from £12.50 Contact: 07836 298627

established: 1998 the story: Sixpack France was born out of the French Graffiti scene, starting life as a graphic T-shirt brand. Over time, the label has developed into a full wardrobe collection with a strong focus on outerwear and shirting, and sits comfortably next to the likes of Obey and Enclave. signature style: The “drugs” print T-shirt and sweatshirt, dubbed as a Sixpack France classic. target customer: 18-35 Wholesale price: £14-£100 Contact: 020 7377 9083

MAY 2014 | MID-SEASON | 49

thFkdlF

thomas roYall

established: 2013 the story: Thfkdlf was co-created by Daniel Tomley and Jakub Taylor as a way to experiment with acid wash and cut-and-sew ideas. Having started in the corner of a screen-printing studio, the design duo now has a team of six, based in the town of Oswestry, Shropshire, with two studios, office space and a showroom. signature style: All-over prints, fully sublimated, cut and sewn in the Thfkdlf studio. target customer: 16-25 Wholesale price: 2.5 mark-up Contact: 07432 133234

established: 2014 the story: Created for s/s 14, swimwear brand Thomas Royall was designed to “show the decadent side to summer”, mixing contemporary menswear with a staple pool-side look. signature style: The brand’s inaugural s/s 14 collection features a mid-length fitted short silhouette, with signature details including the brand’s instantly recognisable azure blue waistband and back-pocket flap.

Developed using performance-rich, swim-friendly and fast-drying fabrics, each style includes a thick waist cord with target customer: 18-35 ingot metal toggles and a Wholesale price: £34 form-fitting internal lining.

Contact: 07947 196127

blend he

bertoni

established: 2001 the story: Blend is a European jeans label, catering for the young contemporary fashion market.

Since 2012, the brand is part of the successful portfolio of DK Company, a Danish multi-brand group and one of Europe’s leading suppliers of fashion brands and lifestyle labels. signature style: The brand presents a wide selection of contemporary European styles and carefully crafted jeans, designed for urban living. target customer: 16-plus Wholesale price: £4-£60 Contact: 020 3432 6387

established: 1972 the story: Bertoni was founded in 1972 in Jutland, Denmark, with the aim to manufacture and sell commercial fashion garments with a clean, sharp Scandinavian expression. The brand has a long tradition for making a wide range of suits, from relaxed tailoring to formal, in long-lasting materials. signature style: Slim and tailored silhouettes, from narrow trousers to tight deconstructed or half-lined blazers. target customer: 25-plus Wholesale price: £14-£160 Contact: 020 3432 6387

Parka london

Weareabnormal

established: 2013 the story: Parka London is the debut brand from a London design collective that puts the parka on a pedestal. The team consists of creative director and womenswear designer Fiona Marston, menswear designer Emma Robinson and marketing and sales manager Olivia Hearn. signature style: Classic British outerwear with a modernist aesthetic, attention to detail internally and an all-important ease of wear. target customer: 22-45 plus Wholesale price: £60-£155 Contact: 020 7424 6889

established: 2012 the story: Created by brothers Jake and Josh Jeffries, WeAreAbnormal was born from an idea to create a clothing label that stood out from the crowd for the right reasons. Hailing from Bristol, Jake is the designer of the brand, and draws from his graphic design career to add impact to each collection. Next season will see WeAreAbnormal expand into shirting and knitwear, all available on an in-season basis. signature style: Led by graphic influences, each item produced is limited edition and personally hand numbered. target customer: 18-30 Wholesale price: £20-£30 Contact: 0161 212 7441

THE ESSENTIAL RESOURCE FOR THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK NEWS • RETAIL • BRANDS • OPINION • FEATURES • PRODUCT • EVENTS

Make mwb-online.co.uk your daily source if essential fashion industry information - it’s only a click away To advertise on mwb-online.co.uk call Sharon Le Goff on 01484 846069 or email sharon@ras-publishing.com

MAY 2014 | PEOPLE | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 52

ColleCtive the people, the places, the products.

LITTLE BLACK BOOK PlaYtYPe ConCePt store, CoPenhagen

SIMON SAYS “take off your shirt, turn over and breathe in deeply. this is going to hurt.” i’m sure i have your full attention now, dear readers. and those of you with filthy minds, put those thoughts away. mWb is a wholesome family publication.

The voice giving such forceful instructions was Liz, who is a masseuse. We pay for her to visit our head office once a month, and give a massage to all the staff who want one. They go into her room, stressed and tense, and emerge happy and relaxed. It’s still a family publication.

Stop sniggering.

Liz has particular issues with my left shoulder. It is, as she so delicately puts, a wreck of tension. I’m prone to storing any stress there, and, in addition, keyboard work seems to aggravate it. Worse of all, and really disastrous news, is her conclusion that my croquet swing may be the biggest contributory factor. This has vexed me all week. I’ve tried different postures, and variations of swing, but none with any great change. Certainly, over the last few years, I have developed a tendency to miss to the left and she feels that my wrecked shoulder is to blame.

While all this is depressing for me, and doubtless not eliciting much sympathy, there is a wider point here. Whenever I mention Liz and her visit to friends, they’re always amazed that I would go to such trouble for my staff. “What a great idea,” they say. “I wish my company would do that for me.”

My view is this. My staff work hard, and loyally. It’s an open jobs market, and they could all stroll out of here today and into another role tomorrow. They have chosen to work for me. The least I can do is say “thank you” in a few small ways other than their pay packet. This year, we’ve introduced a staff welfare fund. Not a fortune, but enough for them all to have a few good nights out, or all go off to Chessington together.

I’ve left it up to them to choose. It deliberately doesn’t involve me, or Wendy, so that they can let of steam and misbehave. There’s always cake on someone’s birthday. Small things, but they can add up.

I think it’s easier for a company our size to do this, rather than a big business, but it’s not impossible. With a purely “boss’” hat on, it does engender more loyalty and commitment. And they do look happy as they emerge from Liz’s cabin. I’m assuming it’s all family values in there, but what if I’m wrong? simon Carter is the Ceo of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

—

the creative types among us will appreciate this kind of concept store. based around the simplicity of typography and font, Playtype is the epitome of scandinavian cool and offers a mix of products.

— Whether or not you know your serifs from your sans serifs, if you appreciate minimalist décor and an interesting store offer, this Copenhagen shop is for you. Created by a collective of brand and design agency workers, set in the heart of Vesterbro, Playtype showcases posters, mugs, clothing, accessories and homeware.

Launched in conjunction with the revamp and design of Playtype.com, the store is a physical manifestation of its online destination. Think white walls and oversized letter decals on the wall – enough to make graphic fans combust.

— Plan b

graeme gaughan Creative director and founder of Tourne de Transmission, and partner and director of Sane communications.

When i moved to london in 1999 to study music, my mission was purely to be a music producer.

— I quickly progressed through college into working with local London acts. I won a Diesel U-Music Award in 2002 with an act called MDK. I later went on to remix for the likes of Aaliyah and P Diddy. I was quite close with the guys at XL Recordings around the time they signed Dizzie Rascal, and had worked with another act they had called Class A. Great times. But, as music has always been a hard living, I ended up working for All Saints in its PR department, helping with events and dressing bands.

—

MAY 2014 | PEOPLE | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 53

TOP TWEETS

CLOSET CONFIDENTIAL

Hamilton & Hare @hamiltonandhare Loved your article “Five selfie-appropriate underwear suggestions for James Franco” @NickCarvell Thanks for recommending H&H!

JAMES MCDERMOTT, KEY ACCOUNT SALES EXECUTIVE, DIESEL

The Companion @BonVsCompanion It’s stock take today! The whole team have been in since 9am...Swing by & bring us caffeine please! Also buy lots so there’s less to count!

I’d have to say the most treasured item in my wardrobe at the moment would be my Super Sunglasses – a new investment for the summer. Stylish, but not too pricey, as I tend to lose at least one pair a year. I’ve always been a fan of the classic black Rayban Wayfarer style, but these have zero visible branding – which is a huge selling point for me.

— Next up would be my Cote et Ciel bag. Functionality is key these days, and Cote et Ciel has this down to a tee.

Minimalistic design, yet each piece is unique with a huge point of difference over other brands with their innovative fabrics. I have the laptop carrier with slots for my laptop, iPad and more. It’s great quality, and mine hasn’t left my side for a few years. It’s still in perfect condition.

— In my opinion, Diesel’s Jogg Jeans are the most innovative concept in the market, and I’m not being biased. We have fused together denim and Jogg fabric, using a patented weave to create a denim look and fit with the comfort of joggers. Although there has been a lot of noise around the Jogg 5 pocket, people don’t realise there are other products in the Jogg family such as the Jogg jacket. The one I’ve gone for is the clean indigo. It’s very smart, insanely comfortable and great for layering.

— I recently turned 30, so I thought it was about time I got some sensible shoes.

Grenson has been around for nearly 150 years, so it definitely knows what it’s doing.

The brogues are timeless classics and can be worn with pretty much any outfit.

— I am very much a minimalist when it comes to tees. Basic crew necks are a regular part of my outfit. For me, Cos has the best fit and value for money. At £12, you can replenish your wardrobe regularly, and you can’t really go wrong with that.

—

Christopher Shannon @shannonmenswear Clown convention #metgala Boscombe East PO @bepo836 Another hour of the day spent chasing people that steal from us #GettingWorse Fashion Monitor @Fashion_Monitor “Graduate Fashion Week is the cornerstone and the birthplace of British creativity” says @HilaryAlexander @OfficialGFW #GFW2014 David Watts @David_M_Watts “Be the type of person that makes everyone you come across feel perfectly OK with being exactly who they are” Simon Carter @kingofcufflinks Having a love hate relationship with my iPhone today. Without the love.

SOCIETy THE PARTIES AND EVENTS FROM IN AND AROUND THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY.

 FOLLOWING ON FROM ITS EVENT COLLABORATION IN OCTOBER LAST YEAR, PREMIUM SCOTCH WHISKY LABEL CHIVAS REGAL AND LONDON’S SAVILE ROW CAME TOGETHER EARLIER LAST MONTH TO HOST AN INVITEONLY OPEN EVENING. GENTS GAINED ACCESS TO ADVICE, PATTERN-CUTTING WORKSHOPS AND TIPS FROM MASTER TAILORS, AND HAD THE CHANCE TO SAMPLE WHISKY COCKTAILS.

 FRANKLIN & MARSHALL OPENED ITS FIRST STANDALONE STORE IN COVENT GARDEN’S SEVEN DIALS LAST MONTH, WELCOMING, AMONG OTHERS, CARLO FESTUCCIA (LONDON WASPS), FRANCESCO CONSTANTINO CIAMPA (EVENT, SPORT AND TALENT, AMBASSADOR ADVISOR), GIUSEPPE ALBARELLI (CO-FOUNDER AND OWNER) AND ANDREA MASI (LONDON WASPS), ALL PICTURED L-R.

 THE UK FASHION & TEXTILE ASSOCIATION HOSTED A FASHION SHOW AND RECEPTION AT WESTMINSTER’S RIVERSIDE TERRACE EARLIER THIS MONTH, IN COLLABORATION WITH DAMIAN COLLINS MP.

MAY 2014 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK | 55

the bottomleY line

© Paul Mowatt

mWb deputy editor tom bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

 NURSEY OF BUNGAY COUNTED COMMENTATOR JOHN MOTSON AMONG ITS FANS OF SHEEPSKIN COATS

no extra time For mottY’s sheePskin ComPanY You will have no doubt read about the factory that made the trademark sheepskin coats as worn by legendary football commentator John Motson, and one of the most famous TV comedy characters of all time – Del Boy – has closed after 168 years. Suffolk’s Nursey of Bungay, which also counted TV presenter Holly Willoughby as a fan, opened in 1846, but failed to secure a buyer after apparently not making a profit in six years.

A real kick in the teeth, much like what was often practised by the skinheads who wore them in the 70s. It had been run by the same family for generations. Tim Nursey, 64, was the fifth generation of his family to work at the company, and started training when he was 18. At its 70s peak it employed more than 80 staff but, by the end, there was seven people left – all of them magnificent but, ultimately, out of work. A real shame, and an end of a legend. There will probably now be a trend for sheepskin coats again but, if so, there are plans for them to temporarily reopen in mid-October to clear the stock. The final whistle for the coat that’s kept out the cold for Motty across football grounds up and down the country for decades. And, as Del Boy would say, it was the “crème de la menthe” of sheepskins.

“hYPertargeting” and “geo-FenCing” the neW buzz Words According to Solocal Group, a European leader in local digital marketing services, retailers will be able to “leverage increasing quantities of behavioural and attitudinal” data on digital users to better target their advertising campaigns.

Mobile innovations, such as “geo-fencing” – a feature in a software program that uses the global positioning system (GPS) or radio frequency identification to define geographical boundaries – are getting more specific. Put more simply, for any “opt-in” customers that they have data on, retailers will be able to track you down to the nearest

 THE LATEST INNOVATION FOR MEN FROM SPANX

street corner for any promotions and so on. Even to the point of, say, “messaging all 20-55 year-old high-revenue men currently present in the neighbourhood.” It obviously has to be an opt-in service, where customers agree to share their details (gender, age etc.) to avail of special offers by creating an account on the retailer’s website, signing up to a newsletter, or sharing their social media profile. But the retailer can then select among its subscribers present in the local area the relevant target audience for the promotion.

Not bad on a slow day or week when a flash Sale might just be a saving grace. Getting wise to all this technology seems to be the way forward for boosting business, even on a wet Wednesday in Wigan. Thirty per cent off raincoats today only anyone?

thanks For sPanx!

“Not just for girls” reads the promotion – Spanx is now the way to “cheat your way to a slimmer shape” for men, too. Even promising to “beat the beer belly.” Crew-necks, V-necks and vests that really do suck you in, and are not as much grief as a girdle! The women’s versions were launched in 2010, and are stocked in the likes of Harvey Nichols, Selfridges and John Lewis. Celebrity

endorsement has apparently come from the likes of Lily Allen, Kate Winslet and Claudia Schiffer no less. Hang on a minute, Claudia Schiffer needs help to “create a show-stopping, streamlined look?” Get out of town! So far there are no male celebrities for the brand to claim fame to supplying but, somehow, I can’t imagine George Clooney and Brad Pitt downing 10 pints of Guinness with a couple of meat pies each before a red carpet premiere – happy in the knowledge that Spanx will still make sure they look every inch like movie stars. Mine’s in the post!

men noW nearlY on a Fashion sPending Par With Women The next time a woman hides a new pair of heels from her hubby or boyfriend in guilt at not being able to resist the latest style, she may do well to check what he might be hiding at the back of the wardrobe, too. A new study commissioned by shopping centre company Westfield Group has revealed that male shoppers are splashing out around £13bn a year on clothing; an average of £988 each, and only £99 less than women. If only they did an additional study to find out exactly what it is men are buying – it would be very useful information for menswear independents, indeed.

MAY 2014 | DIRECTORY | 56

direCtorY big sizes

CasualWear

next issue suits

June Matthew Miller London Collections Men

  

 

             Unit 63 (Sixth Floor) Regent Studios 8 Andrews Road, Hackney, London E8 4QN Tel: 0207 254 8888 Fax: 0207 254 8889 Email: trimtexclothing@btconnect.com

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last orders With... mattheW zorPas the gentleman blogger is fast becoming one of the leading go-to sites for sartorial inspiration, with matthew zorpas, the face behind the blog, expanding his knowledge and love for london style with his new book, london 100, a gentleman’s guide. here, he speaks to victoria Jackson about his personal style and favourite spots in the capital.

— Date of birth: 26/05/87 Place of birth: Nicosia, Cyprus Lives now: London Twitter: @MatthewZorpas Website: www.thegentlemanblogger.com

When and why did you launch the gentleman blogger?

I launched the blog in July 2012. I wanted to create a platform designed to inspire viewers to visit places they haven’t been before, to taste something different or wear something that they never had the courage to wear. I believe it was an organic progression. On one hand, I have plenty of blogger friends who suggested that I should create my own platform. On the other hand, I have been teaching digital media in various universities in London and was familiar with the potentials of blogging from the very beginning. Today it is a combination of passion and hard work that keeps it together. how has blogging changed since you launched the gentleman blogger?

It is very exciting that in just two years of blogging brands have shown trust in me and invested in The Gentleman Blogger projects from all around the world. I’m grateful that I had this support from the very beginning. As for the future, I believe blogs will become powerful brands, expanding into product production and services. tell us about your book, london 100, a gentleman’s guide. What can a reader expect?

It is my first printed publication, drawing attention to my favourite locations in the city. The guide aims to inspire visitors and Londoners alike to see the capital through a gentleman’s eye, delivering a diverse experience of London, unique with its sumptuous touch. Why London? It has shown me more of the world than I could ever imagine – the doors that have been opened to me, the people who have invited me in and the places I have seen.

I felt the need to give back. any hidden gems of london you’d like to share?

If you fancy a classic cobbler cocktail, look no further than The Luggage Room in Mayfair. For a glass of champagne visit Vertigo 42 (perfect sunsets too!), and if you are a wine lover try Gordon’s Wine bar – the oldest wine bar in

London. Also, head to Daphne’s for a Sunday lunch and Oblix at the Shard for a dinner to impress. describe your signature style.

My style has evolved over the last five years. I think the older you get the more you discover your own voice and taste, and somehow the way you dress is becoming a signature without any thought in advance. Today, you will find me in a double-breasted navy suit, buttoned-up white shirt and a pattern tie for every occasion. Classic and functional yet preppy with a twist. is there any brand in particular you would like to work with? I would love to collaborate with Tom Ford. His menswear is known to be dapper yet very unique and absolutely tailored to my taste.

Which trends and designers are you most excited about for a/w 14?

For a/w 14, I look forward to owning Hackett’s double-breasted suit in graphic windowpane checks and Gieves & Hawkes’ houndstooth dobby patterned coat. Umit Benan, Berluti and Giorgio Armani are also looking promising for a/w 14 with their three-piece suits.

QuiCk-Fire Questions — Who is your mentor?

Life itself has become one.

— Who would play you in a film?

Colin Firth.

— What advice would you give to your 16-year-old self? Dream on. More dreams, more goals in life.

— What couldn’t you live without?

Challenges.

—

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Garments that won’t hang about.

The steamer that will.

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