MWB MAGAZINE JULY ISSUE 214

ISSUE 214 | JULY 2014 | £6.95 | WWW.MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

FROM CITY DWELLERS TO ARMY LUXE THE BIGGEST TRENDS TO EMERGE FOR S/S 15 IN MAINSTREAM MENSWEAR — GRIFFIN’S STAMP THE MAN BEHIND BARACUTA BLUE LABEL — REALITY IN RETAIL SIX UK INDIES EXPLAIN WHAT BUSINESS IS REALLY LIKE ON THE SHOP FLOOR — THROUGH THE GRIT THE BEST IN S/S 15 CONTEMPORARY AND YOUNG FASHION —

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JULY 2014 | 05

R E T A I L 12

Online Insider

14

Retail Insider

17

Tomorrow’s world today

Advice, news and issues online The latest in-store news Highlights of this year’s Bira High Street conference

19

Working independently towards one goal The benefits of independent buying group IMC

G E N T 26

Product News Rounding up the key stories this month

28

In-season stock

30

Turning 50 with a smile

32

Show review: Pitti Uomo

Summer lovin’ Profiling menswear independent John Douglas Six of the stand-out labels at last month’s show

B R A N D

G U I D E

36

Collection News

40

Trends of summer

50

Retail round-up

The latest developments for the new season From fabric innovations to the new twist on the classic nautical Six independent retailers discuss the shop floor

D E N I M

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S T R E E T

56

Product News

58

In-season stock

60

Brick Lane highlights

64

London Collections: Men

67

DL1961 giving jeans the XFit factor

Rounding up the key stories this month Festival fever Key names to catch at this season’s Jacket Required The best of last month’s London showcase Premium denim label DL1961’s first foray into menswear

68

Northern soul MWB’s seasonal young fashion photoshoot

R E G U L A R S 7 8 20

Comment News Interview

84 87 90

Collective The Bottomley Line Last Orders With…

Jeff Griffin

Becky French Front cover:

Boxfresh 020 8297 4635, Surf Liquor 07971 360690, Superdry 01242 578376, Palladium 07585 300402 –

For sales and distribution enquiries contact sales@weekendoffender.com +44(0)1332 342 068

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EDITOR

JULY 2014 | 07

COMMeNT

Victoria Jackson victoria@ras-publishing.com — DEPUT Y

EDITOR

Tom Bottomley tom.bottomley@btinternet.com — CONTRIBUTORS Isabella Griffiths isabella@ras-publishing.com Laura Turner laura@ras-publishing.com Christina Williams christina@ras-publishing.com — SUB

EDITOR

Amanda Batley amanda@ras-publishing.com — EDITORIAL

AS SISTANT

Rebecca Jackson rebecca.jackson@ras-publishing.com — DESIGNERS Michael Podger michael@ras-publishing.com James Lindley james@ras-publishing.com Clive Holloway clive@ras-publishing.com Richard Boyle richard@ras-publishing.com — SALES

MANAGER

Sharon Le Goff sharon@ras-publishing.com — SUB SCRIPTIONS Laura Martindale laura.martindale@ite-exhibitions.com — HEAD

OF

MENSWEAR

Jamie Harden jamie@moda-uk.co.uk — PRODUCTION

DIRECTOR

Gill Brabham gill@ras-publishing.com — PORTFOLIO

DIRECTOR

Nick Cook nick@ras-publishing.com — MARKETING

DIRECTOR

Stephanie Parker stephanie@moda-uk.co.uk — MANAGING

DIRECTOR

Colette Tebbutt colette@ras-publishing.com —

MWB is published 9 times per year by RAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall, Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 Copyright © 2014 MWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved.

Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose, other than short extracts for review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RAS Publishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability for loss or damage to transparencies and any other material submitted for publication.

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With recent figures showing a growth of 18 per cent in the Uk menswear market over the last five years, it seems style and appearance are becoming more and more of a prominent issue in the lives of British men.

— Latest research from industry analyst Mintel highlights an impressive growth of 18 per cent between 2008 and 2013 across the Uk menswear market, showing British men really are dedicated followers of fashion. During 2013, 91 per cent of all men in the Uk bought new pieces of clothing.

Leading the way in the men’s fashion market is the 25-34 year old age group, with a quarter of this demographic admitting they are driven by the latest fashion when buying clothes, compared to just 17 per cent of women of the same age. Surprising, no? And while this is certainly positive news for the industry – especially for those shops catering for this specific end of the market – London is really where these fashion-conscious males can be found, with almost three out of ten (28 per cent) men saying trends are important when shopping, in comparison to just five per cent of their Northern counterparts in Yorkshire and Humberside.

This research comes as the spotlight remains firmly on British fashion following a successful London Collections: Men (LC:M). And as preparations for London trade show Jacket Required get fully under way, never has our capital, nor our country, created such a noise on both a domestic and international level in regard to men’s fashion. LC:M was a great success, with MWB hosting its own drinks event in the Accessories Showroom at new location Victoria House to celebrate the second day of the three-day showcase. If there was any doubt over London’s power on the global menswear landscape, it has been firmly eradicated now.

Even as the heat shone in Florence at Pitti Uomo, it was the success of London and British menswear that seemed to dominate conversations. As designer Jeff Griffin explained in his interview with MWB’s Tom Bottomley at Pitti Uomo, when asked why Baracuta has increased its production in the UK, “It’s because the customer abroad is looking to buy a ‘part’ of Britain and demands it’s Made in England.” Here’s to continuing to put the “great” into Great Britain.

Victoria Jackson editor

A Buyer Series Fashion Business Publication MWB is a fashion business publication produced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titles in the Buyer Series include WWB and CWB. RAS Publishing Ltd is an ITE Group Plc company.

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JULY 2014 | NEWS | 08

N E W S

MOST MPS BACK BU SINESS R AT E R EFOR M

WORKERS GAIN FLEXIBILITY RIGHTS New legislation introduced at the beginning of this month gives all workers the right to request flexible working patterns from their employer. The right, which was previously limited to parents and carers, has been rolled-out to the Uk’s entire workforce in a bid to bring working practices “up-to-date” with modern family lifestyles.

While employers will be obliged to consider requests in a “reasonable manner”, they will be under no obligation to meet demands for flexibility in the workplace.

Employers are, however, urged to see the potential benefits of flexible working patterns, particularly for those wishing to seek further training alongside vocational work.

“Modern businesses know that flexible working boosts productivity and staff morale, and helps them keep their top talent so that they can grow,” says deputy Prime Minister Nick Clegg. “It’s about time we brought working practices bang up-to-date with the needs, and choices, of our modern families.”

Some industry groups, however, have reacted with disdain to the news, pointing out that many employers – including retailers – will simply not be able to accommodate flexibility above and beyond a working day dictated by opening hours, and that a refusal of a request could lead to a negative dynamic in the workplace.

“We know from our own membership that more than three quarters of our members offer flexible working, but there will be a small number of small businesses who will not be able to do that, whether it’s through cost or just from balancing their teams,” says Lisle Brown from the Federation of Small Businesses.

Mark Shulman, consultant solicitor at Keystone Law, adds, “In practice, if there is a dispute about an employee’s flexible working request, an employment tribunal can only order the employer to reconsider the application and award compensation – capped at just eight weeks’ pay at the statutory rate (currently £464 per week). Tribunals cannot question the permitted business reasons behind an employer’s decision to refuse a request or order that the request be granted.

“But employers should be aware of the risks of a potential discrimination claim if they refuse a flexible working request,” says Shulman. “This typically occurs where such requests relate to childcare commitments or religious requirements. For those types of discrimination claims, compensation is potentially uncapped.”

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New research has indicated that eight in ten MPs agree that the current business rates system is “not fit for purpose”, despite the rejection by the government of a call for reform by pressure groups last month.

Following the submission of a proposal for reform by campaigners – which called for a salesbased tax rather than a property-based levy – the Coalition responded on 17 June by reasoning that the UK already had a sales tax in the form of VAT. A poll carried out since the rejection, however, has found that 80 per cent of MPs admit that the current system is “not fit for purpose” and is “in need of fundamental reform”. The poll, which was commissioned by the BRC, also found that the overwhelming majority of MPs (93 per cent) agreed that the reform of business rates was an important area for the future success of high streets and town centres.

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R A ILWAY N EX T STOP FOR RETAIL EVOLU TION Time-starved consumers will soon have the option to factor in clothes shopping to their daily commute under new plans to roll-out Click & Collect points across the country’s rail network.

In stark contrast to other Click & Collect points – usually stationed within garages and convenience stores – the new Doddle stations will allow shoppers to try on their purchases on site, and return them immediately at the same point if they are unsuitable.

The scheme has been piloted with the country’s first Doddle point at Milton Keynes station, and will be rolled-out to London Waterloo, Bromley South, Brighton, Chelmsford and London Cannon Street stations before the end of August. There are further plans to open the collection points at 300 stations nationwide over the next three years.

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JULY 2014 | NEWS | 09

IN BRIeF

HEN RI LLOYD L AUNCHES EXCLU SIVELY IN USC

SA LES GROW TH FOR DEPA RT M EN T STOR ES

Henri Lloyd’s new concept area opened last month in the new USC store on Oxford Street, stocking the Henri Lloyd Black Label and mainline lifestyle collections. Focused around the brand’s sailing roots, the new design of the area presents a fresh look for the brand and features clean lines and a monochrome colour palette. World renowned sailor Sir Ben Ainslie features in two exclusive images within the store.

The collection in USC features performanceinspired fabrics and pieces revolving around key seasonal products, with elements of the clothing line reflecting features found in the brand’s technical Marine section.

Product offerings range from classic staple pieces such as polo shirts from the mainline collection to technical performance jackets from the Black Label collection.

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John Lewis sales rose by 4.6 per cent in June on a year-on-year basis against the same time last year, with fashion sales in particular seeing a boost of 5.5 per cent. Competitor Debenhams, meanwhile, also reported growth throughout its second quarter, indicating that department stores are holding their own as the UK economy struggles towards a recovery.

The news comes as Debenhams confirms plans to open Sports Direct and Costa Coffee concessions within its stores as part of a wider move to offer a more lifestyle-led shopping experience. Debenham’s overall strategy – as outlined in April – is to evolve away from a reliance on discount led sales and to instead deliver more full-price sales throughout 2014 and beyond.

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MOSS LONDON L AUNCHES FOR A /W 1 4

IN DU ST RY T EA M S SIGN - U P TO CHALLENGE POVERT Y

Moss Bros has unveiled its latest development – Moss London, a sub-brand designed to cater for a younger customer that will go on sale at the end of July.

The range will include slim-fit suits, shirts, outerwear and accessories, with inspiration taken directly from the streets of London. Detailing includes contrasting insert panels, leatherette trims and bottle green tartan weaves.

“The idea around the brand is that London is ubiquitous,” says Jemima Bird, commercial and operations director, Moss Bros. “You don’t have to be from London to have the spirit of London, it’s about movement, passion and individuality.

“For us, these campaigns are about changing people’s perception about Moss Bros,” she continues.

“We are a modern retailer that has a fresh direction you probably wouldn’t have thought of.”

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Teams from across the fashion industry are once again signing up for the ninth annual Prima Solutions Adventure Challenge, supported by MWB and WWB. Taking place on 20 September 2014 in the scenic Exmoor national park in Somerset, the event will see teams take on the challenge of completing a marathon distance on foot, bike and canoe. Funds raised will support leading poverty-fighting charity Care International.

Over the past eight years the event has attracted teams from the likes of Marks & Spencer, Hugo Boss, Gucci and Michael Kors, as well as suppliers and recruiters from across the fashion world, including teams from ITE Moda, publisher of MWB (pictured). Throughout that time, the event has raised over £410,000 to support Care’s work. For further information or to get involved, visit www.carechallenge.org.uk/primasolutions.

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SUCCESS FOR MEET THE MANUFACTURER The first Meet the Manufacturer sourcing show and conference took place on 11-12 June at London’s Old Truman Brewery, attracting almost 3,000 visitors. Attendees descended on the event, organised by Make it British, the campaign for UK manufacturing, to meet some of the UK’s top manufacturers, factories and craftspeople, and support the return of British-made fashion and textiles.

Retail consultant Mary Portas and Ian Maclean, of handcrafted British knitwear label John Smedley, headlined the conference, where more than 20 industry experts passed on advice and first-hand experience of building Great British brands, successfully manufacturing in the UK, and working with British factories.

Kate Dawson, founder of the All-inOne Company, which manufactures in Ashington, Northumberland, producing bespoke all-in-one sleepsuits for adults and children, was among the conference speakers.

“Meet the Manufacturer was an outstanding event – I’ve met so many fantastic people who I can relate to, and I no longer feel isolated in this industry,” she says.

“I feel so proud to have been a part of this landmark event and hope that I have inspired others to follow in my footsteps and make a commitment to British manufacturing – as together we can save the knowledge and skills that are vital to this industry before it is too late.”

— BIRKENSTOCK RELOCATES LONDON FLAGSHIP STORE German footwear brand Birkenstock has opened a new flagship store on 24 Neal Street in London, introducing a more modern and brighter look that is said to reflect the label’s future aesthetic. The 600 sq ft store features white walls covered with minimalist oak shelves and is designed to be contemporary and balanced by simple, handmade wood furniture, adding warmth and softness, but also acting as a reflection of the shoemaker’s craft.

The rear of the store will be fitted with a feature wall and iPads, which will allow customers to browse and buy directly from the Birkenstock web store.

— BRITISH RETAILERS MISSING OUT ON £1BN ADVERTISING REVENUES British retailers that trade online are failing to maximise the potential revenue of their websites, according to new research. The findings – published by strategy consultant OC&C – indicate that just two of the country’s top ten retailers sell media space to third parties on their websites. In the US, meanwhile, eight of the country’s leading online retailers use display ads and featured products to boost the revenue of their online operation.

“Although the UK is one of the most advanced online retail markets in the world, British retailers are behind the curve when it comes to monetising shoppers as well as browsers on their website,” says Anita Balchandani, partner at OC&C. “This may be because e-retailers are concerned that advertising on their websites could potentially deflect consumers away from their site, or they may worry about the effects on consumer perceptions of their brand.”

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JULY 2014 | NEWS | 10

IN BRIEF

BESTSELLER ACQUIRES M&M DIRECT

PIT TI UOMO SEES FIVE PER CENT VISITOR INCREASE

Danish fashion house Bestseller has acquired M&M Direct for an undisclosed sum. The company, whose fashion labels include Selected Homme and Jack & Jones, bought the retailer in a deal that will be completed within eight weeks.

“I believe M&M Direct will continue to develop and become a leading company within its business and its markets,” says Bestseller founder Anders Holch Povlsen. “Moreover, I trust that a closer collaboration will become beneficial for both our companies in the long-term. We have worked with M&M for several years, and have come to know the people within the company as passionate and hard-working people who have achieved many positive results lately, and I look forward to working with them in the future.”

M&M Direct is an online and mail order retailer, specialising in end-of-line clearance fashion and sporting goods, with over 1.3 million active customers.

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Closing figures from the 86th edition of premium menswear show Pitti Uomo recorded a five per cent increase in overall buyer attendance, with over 19,000 buyers attending from markets including Japan, Germany, the UK, Spain and the US. Tim Sturmheit, buyer for UK website Oki-Ni, visited the show in search of new product, especially in the accessories department. “It is easy to offer things pleasing to the touch, whose quality is easily perceived by touching them, but Pitti is also focused on products for online shopping, which is Oki-Ni’s area of expertise,” says Sturmheit.

“I found some very interesting offerings, even in the accessories field, which is our speciality, even better than those found at previous editions of the fair,” he continues, “We offer top-quality men’s clothing and accessories so, to our customers, the price is less important than quality, which must be excellent.”

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CIFF L AUNCHES NEW DESIGN-DRIVEN A REA S

IN T ER N AT ION A L LIN E- U P AT J ACK ET R EQU IR ED

Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) will launch two new areas – Sleek and Lab – for its s/s 15 show.

Running parallel with Crystal Hall, Sleek will exhibit some of the most innovative and exclusive brands in womenswear, such as YDE, American Vintage and Ganni. Lab, meanwhile, will welcome young, upcoming talent in streetwear and menswear with names including Art Comes First, Lou Dalton, Baartmans and Siegel and Peter Jensen.

“The purpose of the new areas is to strengthen the brands represented by CIFF,” says Kristian W Andersen, design and fashion director at CIFF. “Over the last few years, our platform has grown significantly and therefore it is necessary to segment the fair so that the brands are presented in the best way. At the same time, we are making the visit to CIFF more effective and manageable for buyers.”

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Jacket Required will unveil spring collections across an internationally diverse portfolio of brands at its seventh edition this month.

The invitation-only event, which takes place at East London’s Old Truman Brewery on 30-31 July, welcomes brands from Scandinavia and mainland Europe, as well as flying the flag for distinctive British style with the unveiling of the latest collections from the UK’s most directional menswear labels.

Danish label Han Kjøbenhavn will arrive at the event with its collection of men’s apparel and eyewear, revealing a diversified collection for s/s 15.

Fellow Scandinavian label Brixtol, meanwhile, will unveil a new offer of focused outerwear, inspired by the unlikely influences of Swedish culture and British mod style. Turn to page 60 for MWB’s full rundown of the brands to catch this season.

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NEW RETAIL PARK PLANS FOR OXFORDSHIRE Plans have been confirmed for a new retail park in Oxfordshire on Acorn Way in Banbury. The £80m development will be built on a site alongside the M40, with work starting on the project in September this year. Clothing retailers M&S, Next and Primark have confirmed they will take units within the Banbury Park development. The move will create between 800 and 1,000 jobs in the area.

The site – owned by LXB Retail Properties – was formerly the HQ of motorsport company Prodrive. The retail park is expected to be fully operational by December next year.

— MR PORTER ANNOUNCES COLLABORATION WITH MATTHEW VAUGHN Menswear e-tailer Mr Porter has revealed plans to launch a 60-piece menswear collection in collaboration with director Matthew Vaughn.

Inspired by Vaughn’s upcoming film, Kingsman: The Secret Service, the collection – named Kingsman - will feature throughout the film, which is set for a mid-October release.

“This is a hugely significant development for Mr Porter,” says Toby Bateman, buying director at Mr Porter.

“We are consistently looking to provide the best in men’s style to our global customers and visitors, and the Kingsman label combines the traditional precision of Savile Row tailoring with a modern silhouette. We have worked with the best in class for each product category to develop this collection.”

— ANIMAL ANNOUNCES NEW EUROPEAN STOCKIST Leading UK action sports lifestyle brand Animal has announced it will be stocked in Blue Tomato, Europe’s leading action sport e-tailer.

Based in Austria, with 16 stores in both Austria and Germany, Blue Tomato boasts over 500,000 subscribers.

“Blue Tomato is a fantastic retailer of action-sports brands and we are delighted they see such potential for Animal in the European market,” says David Abramson, international sales director, Animal.

With Blue Tomato now in place, Animal is now targeting additional European customers and forecasts “strong double-digit growth on International sales in 2015”, according to Abramson.

— AMERICAN EAGLE POISED TO LAND IN UK US brand American Eagle Outfitters is set to arrive in the UK, following talks with UK property agent Harper Dennis Hobbs.

The menswear and womenswear label – one of the largest in the US – will initially launch into the UK via a store in Westfield’s Stratford City Shopping Centre, with a further store opening potentially planned for Bluewater in Kent.

The brand targets the young fashion consumer in the 15-25 year-old demographic with affordable fashion and has over 1,000 stores in the US. The label is the latest US brand in that genre to make the move over the Atlantic, following in the footsteps of Forever 21 and Urban Outfitters – which have successfully made their mark on the UK high street.

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JULY 2014 | ADVICE | 12

ONLINe INSIDeR advice, news and issues online.

ADVICE: Why MOBILe IS key FOR ReTaILeRS BUT ONLy ONe PaRT OF The PUzzLe

GaVIN MaSTeRS is head of e-commerce consultancy Maginus Software Solutions, and can be contacted through www.maginus.com

Today’s shopper is demanding. The constant influx of new channels and technologies has meant that consumer expectations have never been higher, with many craving the highest level of convenience when they head to a retailer.

Mobile is a trend that has long been serving this audience, and one that retailers have been relying on more and more to create a seamless online shopping experience. But while the technology continues to dominate the headlines, it’s becoming easy for other channels to be somewhat pushed aside.

Although still present, the desktop has recently become a far less common shopping channel, with many consumers preferring to browse for products on the go. And although it has never been more important that retailers embrace this change, it is also just as important that its less popular shopping channels do not get completely neglected. Understanding the differences between a customer who is looking at your site on a mobile, on a smart TV, or browsing your site to collect in-store is critical to success.

The key is to remain consistent, allowing your brand to remain just as strong across each offering, as catching a consumer on their mobile can be the perfect way to draw them to other channels at your business. So in this sense, retail marketers need to put a significant amount of effort into multiscreen and multi-device strategies to deliver a relevant, optimised and consistent experience regardless of a particular device.

In the midst of a mobile boom, it is easy to become distracted, but it’s vital that retailers do not forget customers that are not adhering to the trend.

Retailers that are able to understand what their customers are doing online, in-store and on their mobiles, are ultimately the ones that will secure the most loyalty among its shoppers. Only then will retailers be equipped with the information needed to build on their customer experience going forward, ensuring the needs of all of their customers, regardless of how they are shopping, are met.

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WeB WaTCh

WWW.TheIDLeMaN.COM Designed for the 20-something fashion-savvy man, shopping website The Idle Man launched earlier this year with start-up capital from Private Equity group Foresight Group. The brainchild of former head of menswear at Asos, Oliver Tezcan, the site offers a wide selection of brands including Mi-Pac, Farah Vintage and Vans. “Men are always an after-thought in fashion,” says Tezcan. “Men’s ranges are hidden in the basement or plonked on three shelves on the top floor. Over the years I’ve had a nagging feeling that the average guy could be serviced better – and that’s what The Idle Man will do.”

—

NeWS

BOXPARK’S AWARD-WINNING APP Shoreditch pop-up mall Boxpark has won the UK App Design Award for Best Retail & Shopping App. Attracting over 160 entrants in its first year, the Awards were announced by design100 CEO and founder Mark Bergin as part of London Tech Week.

The Boxpark app for independent retailers allows consumers to buy from the pop-up stores via online or mobile, and includes a feature called Scan to Shop, which allows customers to share their favourite products.

The Boxpark Marketplace App was built by POQ, and is built on a Magento platform with built-in Paypal payment solution.

— ASOS BACK ONLINE AFTER FIRE Online retail giant Asos was forced to suspend trading for 48 hours, following a fire at its South Yorkshire warehouse last month.

The blaze – which police are treating as arson – forced the retailer to cease taking orders on its site.

However, the business was back up-andrunning just three days later.

The Barnsley warehouse contains around 70 per cent of the retailer’s £159m worth of stock. Initial reports indicate that the fire destroyed around 20 per cent of this, although none of the 60,000 sq ft warehouse’s infrastructure was damaged.

“We are fully insured for loss of stock and business interruption,” says Asos in a statement released soon after the outbreak of the fire, which saw 500 people evacuated from the five-story building.

It is the second time in the retailer’s 14-year history that Asos has been blighted by fire. In 2005, Asos was forced to stop trading over Christmas after an explosion at the Buncefield oil depot near its previous warehouse in Hertfordshire.

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3RD

EDITION

HONG

KONG

27-28

AUGUST

2014

T H E H U B . H K

A S I A ’ S D E S I G N E R

P R E M I U M F A S H I O N

B R A N D T R A D E

A N D E V E N T

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JULY 2014 | RETAIL | 14

ReTaIL INSIDeR The latest news and opinion from the menswear retail industry.

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VIEWPOINT NeIL RaVeN is managing director of Raven’s of Southend and a member of the Fashion association of Britain (FaB).

CON TIN UED GROW T H FOR THE BROTIQUE Menswear independent The Brotique has widened its offer to establish itself as the place to go for care products and grooming goods.

Opening in Edinburgh in November 2013, the Saint Stephen Street store was set up in an astonishing 24 days, from idea to execution, by co-founders Richard Murphy and Crawford Coutts.

“With our love of products and our natural ability to curate, market and sell, we created The Brotique as an outlet for our own interests and provided a hub for people who appreciate and desire authentic, high-quality, original and definitive products,” says Murphy.

The store has the largest selection of beard and moustache products in the UK, as well as the new launch of The Brotique ManHamper – a handpicked selection of grooming products in a black hamper.

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IN BRIeF TOPMAN LAUNCHES PERSONAL SHOPPING SUITE Topman has launched a dedicated personal shopping suite on the third floor of its Oxford Circus branch as part of an overhaul of its flagship store. The suite has doubled in size from its original second-floor location, and is staffed by an extended team of personal shoppers, headed up by Andrew Allan, former menswear manager at luxury retailer Matches.

Customers will be able to pre-book personal shopping appointments, ranging from a 30-minute Fast Fashion Fix to a two-hour Ultimate Wardrobe Overhaul. All appointments are complimentary.

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USC opens flagship on Oxford Street Multi-branded retailer USC has opened a new flagship store on London’s iconic Oxford Street in celebration of its 25th anniversary. The 17,363 sq ft store – which opened last month – debuted with an extensive portfolio of spring collections across menswear and womenswear from labels including G-Star Raw, Lacoste, Levi’s, Replay, Weekend Offender, Pretty Green, Vans, Puma, Converse, William Rast, Religion and Henri Lloyd. In addition to the brands, shoppers will find exclusive products from G-Star, Lacoste and Replay.

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Menswear as a sector has made huge changes in the past few years, but I still find that our trade is very much dictated by the weather. Fortunately the past six weeks have given us the good summer temperatures that we need.

For some reason, we have struggled with Tommy Hilfiger and Henri Lloyd this season; whereas we have had a particular success story with Meyer trousers and continued success with Gant.

When products do take off, it’s essential that we can have re-orders fulfilled. Meyer has been a great example of a supplier providing reliable stock support. It’s been by far the bestselling brand this season. The hero item has been a corded cotton trouser with a contrasting trim around the pockets that retails for £95. I have never had such a strong-selling trouser. I must have put down an initial order of 15 and we have easily put in re-orders of another 20.

It’s true that there is a strong trend towards more casual dressing, and I think the popularity in shirting details and contrasting stitching is partly responsible for a lowering of our average age demographic. Such details allow the customer to update a look easily while still avoiding anything too formal.

Having said that, we do still sell a good number of suits, which form an important part of our business. We are reconsidering whether to continue with the suit-hire business. We dropped wedding suit hire a few years ago to open the ladies’ shoes and accessories department and now we only hire tuxedos.

This can be very labour-intensive, so we shall need to look at the figures on that again.

Going forward, the next few months should be exciting for us, as we have found an intern to work full-time on developing our website. Essex University is part-funding the internship. It’s exciting to see what we can achieve with more resource. www.fashionassociationofbritain.co.uk

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JULY 2014 | RETAIL | 15

SHOPPED: LIzaRD MeNSWeaR how has the first year of trading in Farnham been for you?

My dad has had Lizard in Richmond since 1979, but I’ve been running the Farnham shop since March 2013, and it’s been tougher than we expected it to be. But it’s becoming more positive, and we’ve laid the foundations to build on. I’m now 24, and started as a Saturday boy at 16, so I’m well versed in what we do well in Richmond. But it’s not simply a case of replicating the formula, because any town you go into with fresh eyes is going to have a slightly different customer base.

— So how different is Farnham to Richmond? heNRy ThReaDINGhaM It’s very fractionally at a lower end of the market, so MANAGER/BUYER, we’ve brought in some pieces from brands such as LIZARD MENSWEAR, FARNHAM, SURREY, Native Youth that have performed well. However, AND RICHMOND generally speaking, we’re trying to trade up. We’ve UPON THAMES picked up Sunspel for this autumn, and we wouldn’t ordinarily try to sell a plain T-shirt for £60. We’re also bringing back Nicole Farhi. Paul Smith remains our strongest performing brand.

— how are you bringing newness to the business in general?

I’ve created the new website and have got us active on social media.

Every business now needs to have that presence; it gives you a more professional appearance and it’s a huge part of the industry. Some of the best stores in the UK that I follow now have a huge presence, and I think that’s something that we should be looking to try to increase.

—

IN FOCUS: DICk’S 3 NORTh WeST CIRCUS PLaCe, eDINBURGh eh3 6ST

eSTaBLISheD: NOVEMBER 2012 BRaNDS INCLUDe: ANDERSEN-ANDERSEN, BARACUTA, BARENA, CORGI, CRESCENT DOWN WORKS, ERIBÉ, FILSON, GOLDEN BEAR, GREVI, GRP, HARLEY, INIS MEÁIN, LAVENHAM, LOCK HATTERS, MACKINTOSH, MERZ B SCHWANEN, NEW ENGLAND SHIRT CO, ORCIVAL, PARABOOT, SANDERS, SCHIESSER, STUTTERHEIM, SUNSPEL.

husband-and-wife team andrew Dick and Uli Schade run a tight ship, with emphasis on quality and classic styles. Dick’s offers a varied selection of brands, and is pretty unique for edinburgh.

The shop is positioned just outside the centre of Edinburgh in the New Town. It’s an area that has always had independent shops, bars and restaurants. Dick’s mother tells him he’s the fifth generation of his family to be in the area, as his great grandfather once had a tailoring business just up the road. Prior to setting up shop, the couple lived in London, where Dick was a production journalist at The Guardian, and Schade a well-respected photographer of interiors. Neither had a track record in the retail business.

“We were careful to select brands that weren’t sold in Edinburgh – one of the reasons we thought there was a place for the shop in the first place,” says Dick. “We’re pleased with how most things have sold, especially since we have introduced a number of new brands for our second summer. Sunspel is a great performer for us, but I think I’m most pleased with GRP, an artisan knitter from Tuscany, and our New England Shirt Co shirts, which are made especially for us in Massachusetts.” The retailer also sells a range of accessories and homeware.

—

FOUR LONDON STORE OPENINGS FOR SU PERGA Spitalfields welcomed the opening of Italian footwear label Superga’s fourth store last month.

Located at 105b Commercial Road, the launch will continue to boost the brand’s growing presence in the UK and further establish it as a key player in the UK footwear market.

Superga already has stores in Camden, Covent Garden and its flagship on Carnaby Street. The interior of the Spitalfields shop will continue to reflect the label’s simple and minimalist style.

Scaffolding shelving units will be utilised to give the space a more industrial finish; devoting primary focus to the extensive variety of colours, fabrics, and prints in the product range.

The new store will be the second largest out of the existing locations in London, offering a vast rang of men’s, women’s and children’s footwear.

—

IN BRIeF LEE COOPER OPENS IN IRELAND Following its recent significant success in the European market, denim brand Lee Cooper has opened its latest store in Ireland. The licensed business appointed Fashion Distribution as its Irish partner in early 2013, and together they have developed Ireland’s first offering of the Lee Cooper brand by softly launching the label’s a/w 14 menswear range in key denim independent stores across the country.

Immediate plans for growth of the brand in Ireland are to secure further independent stockists and establish dedicated Lee Cooper concessions in department stores.

—

SPRING/SUMMER 2015

PREMIUM INTERNATIONAL FASHION TRADE SHOW

PREMIUM ORDER MUNICH

jul 8–10

aug 9–12

STATION-Berlin

MOC Munich

W W W. P R E M I U M E X H I B I T I O N S . CO M

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JULY 2014 | REPORT | 17

TomoRRow’S woRld TodAy The British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) held its annual High Street conference last month, discussing the challenges of retailing and the impact technology has on the shops of the future. Isabella Griffiths reports.

BBC BUSINESS EDITOR STEPH MCGOVERN

Following in the footsteps of last year’s successful debates, The British Independent Retailers Association (Bira) once again invited its members and key industry personalities to come together and discuss the challenges and opportunities retailers are facing, now and in the future.

Retail veteran Bill Grimsey, former CEO of Wickes, Iceland and Focus DIY and author of last year’s alternative assessment of the high street, the Grimsey Review, kicked off proceedings with his talk on Preparing High Streets and Town Centres for the 21st century. “If there are only a few things that you will remember from this presentation, I want you to go away with this,” he said. “1. The future has never ever been more exciting for the retail sector than right now. 2. It’s only going to be exciting if you are prepared to change. 3. Among all the negatives that you hear about high streets and how bad it is for independent retailers – well, it’s just as bad for the big guys.”

Grimsey put developments in technology, and especially the invention of the internet and rise of mobile devices, at the heart of his speech, and argued that both need to be embraced by the retail world as they are the only way to turn around the fortunes of high streets up and down

the country. Quoting some of the findings from his Grimsey Review, which constituted that towncentre planners need to re-think how they use empty store spaces and put technology at the heart of the solution, he said, “You might think it’s tough for you, but the big guys are in an even bigger pickle. The ‘big four’ – Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Morrisons and Asda – in 10-15 years, won’t be here any more if they don’t adapt to the changing face of retail and embrace technology. They’ve got too much costly retail space – but do we need all this space in the future? Do you think Philip Green [Arcadia Group] is going to renew 80 per cent of his leases that are coming up for renegotiation in the next five years? No, because he knows that technology is coming.”

But equally he stressed that the onus was on independent retailers themselves to also innovate and embrace technology and use it to create unique customer experiences that will make their stores stand out and create “community hubs” instead of “clone towns”, which are driven by shopping, leisure, housing and employment. “We don’t need clone towns with the same shops in every town; we need community hubs,” says Grimsey. “The future is to have an independent town that gives you an experience; where people want to live, work and visit.

“And independents are part of this,” he continued. “I’m going to ban the term ‘customer service’ from our industry. It is meaningless.

Forget it; it’s an overused term. It’s about an experience. It’s about the customer experience, and we, the retailer, have to create that. The future of the high street depends on the political will, the local will and independent traders who are willing to bring diversity and uniqueness to a town.”

This was followed by a series of short interviews hosted by BBC business editor Steph McGovern, who delved into three of the burning issues impacting the daily life of independent retailers. Michael Weedon, Bira’s deputy CEO, discussed the impact of the current business rate system, which has been at the centre of much public debate recently. “There has been property tax in this country for hundreds of years, but the business rates that we have today have been designed in 1988 and implemented in 1990, and since then all sorts of things have changed,” he analysed, reiterating the call of the retail industry on the government to urgently reform and review the current system. “The most significant is probably that you no longer actually need a shop, or a physical presence at all to retail. So the framework is changing, but the taxation system remains as it was.” >>>

WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.Uk

MARTIJN BERTISEN, SENIOR INDUSTRY HEAD OF RETAIL, GOOGLE UK

RETAIL VETERAN BILL GRIMSEY

Weedon said it would be fairer to make the revaluation system simpler, so a review can be undertaken much more frequently, “Because the rate of economic change is accelerating all the time, and we need to respond to that,” he said.

“The current system has two main effects; it affects profitability and it discourages retailers from opening more shops,” he put forward, both of which were detrimental to the industry.

However, Weedon did not paint an entirely bleak picture; on the contrary. Quoting latest figures from the Local Data Company, he said that independents are faring better than their highstreet equivalents, with town centres showing healthier vacancy rates than out-of-town centres, with certain sectors in particular showing strong signs of survival. “Service and leisure independents especially seem to be still going strong, due to the nature of their business – after all, it’s difficult to get a haircut or a tattoo on the internet,” he said.

The “e-commerce revolution” was at the heart of McGovern’s interview with Joan Woolfe, CEO of e-tailer Cooking Marvellous, who shared her success story since launching the business in 2007, accelerated by the rise of e-commerce, and attested that retailers have to keep up with the technology constantly. “As an online retailer, things are moving incredibly quickly, and you have to constantly adapt,” he said. “Customers have moved on, and customer expectations have moved on and changed – they expect more all the time and you have to deliver.”

Neil Moss, head of business at the National Skills Academy, meanwhile, talked about the “retail skills gap”, which is another challenge

JULY 2014 | REPORT | 18

JOAN WOOLFE, CEO, COOKING MARVELLOUS

NEIL MOSS, HEAD OF BUSINESS, NATIONAL SKILLS ACADEMY

MICHAEL WEEDON, DEPUTY CEO, BIRA

“I’m going to ban the term ‘customer service’ from our industry. It is meaningless. Forget it; it’s an overused term. It’s about an experience. It’s about the customer experience, and we, the retailer, have to create that”

retailers are facing. “There are too many young people coming out of education who haven’t got the employability skills that our sector needs,” he said, adding that more support and encouragement from the government is needed to make retailing an attractive proposition for young people and securing the future of the sector. “The problem is that the government doesn’t get the retail sector and its importance.

We need to do a lot more lobbying to make them understand just how much retail matters, particularly in terms of jobs and wages. It is not a low-skill, low-wage sector.”

Finally, Martijn Bertisen, senior industry head of retail at Google UK, took to the stage, giving an insightful presentation on “the store of the future”. Exploring the big trends that are happening in the digital world over the next decade or two, he emphasised the huge impact of the internet and new technologies on both retail itself and how consumers shop.

According to Bertisen, Google estimates that, by 2020, 100 per cent of the world’s population will have access to online. And with computing power doubling every 18 months, it poses new opportunities – and challenges – on retailers in terms of how they engage with their customers. “Change has never happened this fast before, and it will never be as slow again,” he said, telling the audience, “Technology is enabling shoppers to get to your store. We are entering a

six-screen world – people are accessing online through their desktop computers, mobiles, TVs, tablets as well as wearable and in-car devices. Mobile development will therefore remain critical.”

He cited the development of Google Glass as a key example – an invention which, when first announced, received a lot of scepticism from industry and consumers alike, but will now be rolled out as an in-store device across a number of retailers at the end of the year. “Things like Google Glass are coming – and they can make the physical in-store experience much richer,” said Bertisen. “Multi-channel is crucial for retailers.

“The meaning of ‘www’ is changing; it’s now more like ‘what we want’, ‘where we want’ and ‘when we want’,” he continued, outlining his key pieces of advice to retailers, “Wise up. Use data – online shopping is giving you a wealth of data [about your customers] that you can use for business strategy, get ahead on consumer trends and competition behaviour. Data beats opinion.

Win the moments that matter. This means open up every single sales channel and be great at every single one.

Think speed. Being 10 per cent better is not good enough any more; think more along the lines of being 10 times better – aim for that all the time.

Digital allows you to test things easily and push your business along quicker and more effectively – think big and be brave.”

WWW.MWB-ONLINe.CO.Uk

JULY 2014 | REPORT | 19

WORkING INDePeNDeNTLy TOWaRDS ONe GOaL This season saw independent menswear buying group IMC cross the waters to Berlin as a collective for the first time, visiting Premium, Bread & Butter and Panorama. The study tour is just one of the many benefits the IMC offers its members, as MWB discovers.

—

It has been said before, but independent retailing needn’t be lonely, nor should retailers feel isolated. as John Donne put it, “No man is an island, entire of itself”, and neither should an independent retailer feel the need to work alone in order to preserve their independence.

When it comes to retail groups and associations, the burning question is why more retailers are not a part of at least one, given the benefits and opportunities that membership affords. As a sector, independent retailers should be a team, club and network, and it’s hardly rocket science to note that its potential to thrive and compete with the multiples’ buying power is always going to be determined by strength in numbers and mutual co-operation.

IMC has been operating in one form or another for more than 30 years. Formerly The ABC Group, IMC formulated its framework as an association for like-minded retailers in 1981. Bob Baker of Chas H Baker in Salisbury was elected as the first long-term chairman, and Uli Welker of Elliotts in Lymington was elected as the joint secretary and treasurer. A lot has happened since this first meeting in 1981, but the principles of being able to buy exclusive merchandise at the most advantageous prices remain. All IMC suppliers offer a discount on their range and frequently UK exclusivity, too.

With no compulsion to buy and no minimums, this is a buying group with all the benefits you would expect and none of the bugbears that afflict many other such groups. In addition to the obvious financial benefits, members additionally benefit intellectually, not only by making new friends with a common goal, but through experiencing a general willingness of fellow retailers to exchange ideas and information.

Twice a year, the IMC conference takes place at Whittlebury Hall – an intimate, members-only trade show. Not only do the suppliers have a captive audience of hungry retailers, focused and ready to buy but, by getting together at an exclusive event, the retailers have the opportunity to share ideas on brands on-site before buying, thus minimising the risk factor and gaining valuable insights which inform the decisionmaking.

Providing access to a select group of premium brands often requires legwork in Europe, which the IMC committee will take the brunt of on behalf of the time-starved retailers. Obtaining exclusivity for the UK, better margins for its members (no agent and distributor fees) and control over distribution and discounting are just some of the reasons why IMC membership continues to grow. Moreover, in an industry where time is money, this research is invaluable.

Each year, the group seeks to offer its

members an experience that they wouldn't necessarily organise for themselves. Previously, this has included lunch at The Houses of Parliament and a successful visit to Magee in Ireland. As the buying season approached, chairman Gary Culver suggested that the 2014 AGM should involve a study tour to Berlin, taking place in the three Berlin trade shows on 7-9 July – Premium, Panorama and Bread & Butter.

From a commercial point of view, the choice of shows promised to cover the right mix of high fashion and classic clothing for Indies. As the IMC team put it in their invitation to members, “This is a fantastic opportunity to see what the major European brands are showing and to gain an insight into trends and looks for the future.” Those who have attended a study tour in the past will know that they offer a precious opportunity to compare and contrast, share knowledge and exchange ideas with fellow retailers. At the AGM, members had the opportunity to share their opinions about the future direction of the group.

With accommodation at the luxurious five-star Pullman Schweizerhof Hotel, plus two evening meals, all paid for by IMC, it was an impressive example of the value of membership. Neither was the study tour all rest and no play, with the hotel conveniently located at the centre of Berlin, where local tourist attractions include KaDeWe, Europa Center and Bauhaus Archive.

As the retail industry becomes ever-more competitive, mutually supportive supplier-retailer relationships are priceless in their value to both parties. As a buying group, the IMC puts great emphasis on the retailer-supplier dynamic and facilitates relationship-building at the events. As committee member Matthew Hansford, of Hansfords Menswear, says, “We talk together both on the stands and in the bar, which benefits product development and general understanding of each other.”

It is little surprise that the opportunity for IMC

members on the Berlin Study Tour to informally meet with European suppliers was a major draw.

The itinerary ensured that some of the brands made a special effort to welcome the travelling IMC members. Indeed, it’s hard to put a price on this.

As if such attention to detail wasn’t evidence enough of the value of such an event, the committee actively encourages members to bring along their colleagues and partners to enjoy the experience, thus encouraging motivation and support from all sides.

As independent retailers, it is easy to become heavily embroiled in mountains of paperwork, busy buying schedules and general administration; so much so that the bigger picture evades us. Counter-intuitive as it may seem, it’s through spending time with others with shared interests and adopting a quid pro quo attitude that the workload can be lessened and new ideas developed. Of course, the best kind of social networking is that conducted in person and the high turnout at the IMC show – 80 per cent at the last show – proves this to be the case. As Neil Welker of Elliott’s, son of Uli Welker, IMC’s first secretary and treasurer, says, “We are definitely stronger as a group. I love the meetings and the conferences and it’s worth remembering that as with so many things in life, a problem shared is a problem halved.”

Successful retailing is certainly an art rather than a science, and there are many mysteries that surround it. But the attraction of the IMC for independent menswear retailers is crystal clear. In the words of Hansford, “The bottom line is that there’s no reason as an independent menswear retailer not to be a member. It’s fun, informative and, above all, profitable.”

If you are a menswear retailer or supplier who would like to find out more about the activities of IMC and how it could benefit your business, call Fiona Coe on 01473 256061 or visit www.imcmenswear.co.uk.

www.mwB-oNlINE.co.uk

JULY 2014 | INTERVIEW | 20

INTERvIEw

jEFF GRIFFIN Griffin is a globally respected British designer, not just for his own label, but also for the several excellent collaborations he has done in the past, and he’s now heading up design for Baracuta’s top-end Blue label. Tom Bottomley gets his design perspective.

— Tom Bottomley: what attracted you to get involved with Baracuta to design the higher-end Blue label range in the first place?

Jeff Griffin: l have collaborated with Baracuta in the past – in 2008 and 2009 – and worked with the label even earlier. It’s a small world and l love the brand. It’s an icon and there aren’t so many icons so, of course, you want to be part of the journey. We had been talking to Andrea Cane, the creative director of WP Lavori – who now owns the Baracuta brand – regarding working on Woolrich John Rich & Bros, another of their brands, for a long time. It was a nice conversation that somehow turned into a story about the history of Baracuta and the reason to have a British designer. l wanted them to understand the richness of this country, from the strength of the youth culture to the fabrications such as Harris Tweed on the Islands, to Moxon in Yorkshire and William Bliss in the West Country.

— TB: How are you taking the look and feel of the collection?

JG: It’s funny because the first season was clean with a beautiful brief, conceptual and looking to the future. It was about playing with the iconic jackets. Season two, for s/s 15, is what the reality of sales agents from across the world require. For example, Japan has followed the brand for a long time, with the whole Steve McQueen thing and so on. But Korea and China haven’t really heard of the brand. In the UK, it has the background with

dESIGNER BARAcuTA BluE lABEl

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the Mods and skinheads and, in Italy, it’s an older man’s summer jacket. So season two is still exciting, but it’s about really looking at the icons to underline them and make them stand-out pieces. We were asked to do a British Army camouflage G9 Harrington and, what can l say, it looks great.

— TB: what key pieces can we expect to see in the s/s 15 collection?

JG: We have different stories, the first of which is about the “future” G9 Harrington and G10 raincoat, using a highly technical Italian ultralightweight stretch Nylon, which is super comfortable, with a foam mesh for the body. We also have the British traditional fabrics but used in a modern way – a G9, but done with contrast, using a Yorkshire wool and linen design but mixed with a Scottish cloth to make a cycling jacket. It’s quite different.

— TB: Is the range dual branded, ie jeff Griffin for Baracuta Blue label?

JG: No it’s not a dual-branded collection, because we work on many projects from our studio. We design around 10 collections a year, some in Japan, others from the UK to Italy. So l can’t put my name on everything, as it’s the main thing we all own – our name! Also, it could weaken our brand in the market. In the past, l heard two lads saying they bought a Griffin jacket, but in fact it was a Converse by Griffin. So l need to protect our stockists. Also, Baracuta is a great brand and doesn’t need dual branding.

— TB: does designing for other brands raise the profile of your own name, and therefore your eponymous jeff Griffin collection?

JG: l love to collaborate, and always have done.

Collaborations should always be a “win, win” if they offer something new, and yes all news is good news, so they help the profile. However, we are not media whores, and love to fly under the radar.

— TB: How much do you enjoy working with other brands that have genuine heritage?

JG: lt’s not just that I love working with heritage

JULY 2014 | INTERVIEW | 21

brands. The important point is working with a label that has something to say, or something interesting in its archive. This is when the ideas start. l hate fake, and l hate when something doesn’t have a point of view, but maybe that’s why they employ us.

— TB: does it disappoint you that so many iconic British brands have ended up in foreign ownership?

JG: Of course it does, but who’s fault is it? The manufacturers in Britain were told to give up for the last 20 years by the government, and everyone was obsessed with cheap imports. My car is a Land Rover, bought and sold to the Germans, the Americans and now to India. But Rover stayed in British hands and was killed. It was a massive blow to lose all that heritage and manufacturing. But, from working with Baracuta in Italy, it wanted to manufacture in England, and has actually increased the production here. It’s still like living in the past here, though. If you visited my factory in Italy it’s super clean and high tech due to the support of the government. The factories here don’t have the investment. They have cracked windows, and sit on back streets with steam bellowing out, and old cutting machinery. So why is Baracuta increasing its production in the UK, you might ask? Because the customer abroad is looking to buy a “part” of Britain, and demands it’s Made in England.

— TB: Are you still fascinated by military designs and camouflage?

JG: Yes, indeed I am, and l’m excited about the work we’re doing on that front for Baracuta. We are working with a great supplier to the British Army, and we are using a Special Forces fabric that has a new quality. Before, it was Goretex, but this is a threelayer British Army fabric, and it’s the first time it’s been used in non-combat clothing. We’ve done a G9

and G10 trench coat. What l love about military is its non-fussy design, innovation, the stories, the history, the fact when you see a group of men in uniform it looks so much better than when they are in “casuals”. It’s also an excuse to go and look at heavy machinery. Everyone needs an escape.

— TB: where does the Blue label sit at retail?

JG: Blue Label is at the top of the brand’s price point, as there is a lot of quality in fabric and manufacturing. It’s very exclusive. For the first two seasons it was designed by Kenichi “Kenny” Kusano, the former creative director of Japanese institution Beams Plus. And now this is season two from us. It’s a tool for ideas for the future, and obviously marketing for the brand. It’s available in the best stores internationally, like Isetan in Tokyo.

The G9 has never been expensive and l love the fact it’s for everyone, such as Dr Martens and Clarks. They are classics, icons and cater for everyone. The Blue Label raises the bar and adds a fresh design perspective.

— TB: How important is it to give classic and iconic designs a new twist or direction?

JG: It’s the same as with the Mini or Land Rover Defender. We all love and remember the original Mini Cooper and the Series 1 Land Rover, but we need to move forward, too.

— TB: would you still say that your designs for the Blue label are still uniquely British in look and feel?

JG: Well, l think so, as l’m British and live and breathe it. If someone in China thinks that it doesn’t look British enough, then maybe it’s because they want a more “Disney” version of British. As one Chinese director who now owns three stores on Savile Row said to me, “In China they only know the Queen and Big Ben.” Are my designs British? Well, there isn’t a Big Ben on anything, or the Queen in the lining!

“l love to collaborate, and always have done. Collaborations should always be a ‘win, win’ if they offer something new, and yes all news is good news, so they help the profile”

THE HEART oF THE uk’S mENSwEAR INduSTRy BOOMERANG

As moda Gent gets set to return to the NEc Birmingham on 10-12 August, mwB runs through the products, collections and features not to be missed this season.

— The beating heart of men’s lifestyle and contemporary fashion for the last 25 seasons, moda Gent welcomes an ever-more diversifying pick of product this August.

With key lifestyle offers to a strong contingent of denim brands and accessories labels, not to mention the growing footwear offer both in Select and neighbouring Moda Footwear, Moda cements its place on the UK fashion trade scene.

Moda Gent has witnessed many a transformation in design, fit and product over the seasons and the latest revolution comes from one of the show’s leading names meyer-Hosen as its new MMX trouser range takes the label in a new fashion direction with its skinny fit translating the flair and range of its core collection to a new target market.

Also having witnessed a style evolution in recent times, denim brand kam jeanswear will offer a series of styles across a wide range of sizes and fits.

In Select, the edited area for urban and contemporary lines, the jeanswear theme remains strong, with labels including casual Friday and Garcia sitting alongside Select favourites such

MEYER-HOSEN

as Björn Borg, while Bertoni also moves into the area.

Select’s footwear offer welcomes back key names including Superga, and T.u.k. Elsewhere in men’s footwear, British manufacturing reigns supreme, with john white and Barker returning with their latest home-grown collections alongside summer casuals from boat-shoe brands chatham marine and Paolo vandini as well as beachwear labels Ipanema and Reef. Causal styles are also evident in the wider men’s apparel offer, with the likes of jockey, Hattric, Boomerang and jupiter’s latest collections heading up the offer from beach to city styles.

Well-known as a sourcing ground for both men’s apparel and accessories, Moda Gent will host the leading sock brands on the market, with brands including calvin klein, corgi, Hj Socks and Falke among the strong add-on product

available at this season’s event.

Elsewhere, cudworth collection joins the line-up with its range of industrial and military inspired men’s jewellery and accessories. The label’s styling includes textured surfaces and mixes stainless steel, with black, gold and blue feature elements across its range, which encompasses everything from sophisticated cuff links to dog tags, constructed beads and leather bracelets. discover the ever-growing exhibitor list for this season’s show at moda-uk.co.uk and start planning the brands you want to see.

JULY 2014 | PROMOTION | 23

J O I N T HE C O M M U NI T Y

Moda’s exclusive planning tool for your season is now live. Once you have registered to attend the event you will receive your unique log-in details. From here you can explore and make contacts with all the brands you want to see, visitors you want to meet, schedule the seminars you’d like to listen in on and discover the discounts, competitions and offers available exclusively to you as a Moda visitor this season. Log-in at moda-uk.co.uk/community.

— ESSE NT I AL BU SI NE SS I NSI GHTS

CHATHAM MARINE

Ever wondered how to write the perfect product description for your online offer?

Maximise your profit through stock control strategies? Or how to get creative and generate new ideas in less than 3o minutes?

Then look no further as Moda’s comprehensive seminar programme returns with expert business advice tailored to independent retailers. From leaders in their field such as fashion writer and broadcaster Jon Tromans, Kate Hills of Make It British, the Fashion Association of Britain and Tony Scott of Retail Spa among this season’s speakers, be sure to set time aside to listen in and glean information and practical advice that could help you to build on your business.

E - ZO NE LI VE LI NE - U P GROW S

With the likes of Esperus, Top To Toe, 360 Resourcing and Retail Technology among the growing line-up for the launch of E-Zone Live this Moda, the area is shaping up to be a must visit for anyone looking to enhance their offer with the latest news and tools for e-commerce and retail technology.

E-Zone Live is a unique opportunity to speak to the teams behind the technology directly and discover what would work best for you and your retail offer. Whether you are a bricks-and-mortar store or looking to develop your online transactional website, don’t miss critical seminars set to update you on the latest technologies and services to enhance your in-store and online offer.

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FASHIoN N INSPIRATIowith

k trends daily Enjoy catwal hottest new ows for the dedicated sh rary, & contempo looks in urban twear & ring and foo ilo ta & e yl st life the fashion live at accessories e. alk theatr Hall 20 catw JOCKEY

#M O DAGE NT 25

Make your own Moda Gent memories this season with the Instagram photo booth on the menswear plaza in Hall 20. Snap and share and look out for your photo in the Moda Gent rogues gallery by searching #ModaGent25.

The Moda team will also be sharing its memories, pictures and reflections on the past 25 seasons and invites you for a complimentary drink on the plaza from 5pm to 6pm on the Sunday. Share in the nostalgia and email marketing@moda-uk.co.uk with your Moda Gent memories.

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E AT, DR I NK AND SO C I ALI SE

The Moda team welcomes all visitors and exhibitors to join them for a drink on the Sunday night of the event to toast a successful first day of business. A show tradition, the drinks, which will take place outside the NEC following the show’s close at 6pm, are a great chance to socialise and catch-up with your peers.

Monday night offers another opportunity to mix and network with a barbecue party at the Beeches Bar & Grill located a five-minute drive from the NEC complex. This more intimate affair is a ticketed event and will offer food, drink and live DJ sets in a relaxed environment. If you would like to book tickets to the Beeches party email nicole.yates@moda-uk.co.uk or call +44 (0)1484 846069.

PAOLO VANDINI

Register for your free ticket today at moda-uk.co.uk

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PANORAMA CPD FASHION WEEK DÜSSELDORF HOT I CPM MOSKAU HOT II FASHION PREMIÈRE CIFF COPENHAGEN CRÉATION GROSS GMBH & CO. KG // HOUBIRGSTRASSE 7 // 91217 HERSBRUCK // PHONE +44 (0) 7951 55 08 90 E-MAIL: G.REMMLER@CARLGROSS.COM // CARLGROSS.COM

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JULY 2014 | GENT | CONTENTS | 25

G E N T

THe FuLL WoRkS Spring/summer 2015 sees British menswear label Universal Works combine inspirations from 19th-century toiles, 50s silhouettes and 80s rave and sportswear. By mixing ideas and influences, the brand presents one of its strongest summer collections to date. Creating a blend of contemporary and functional, with the ease of sportswear, deconstructed suiting and blue-collar durability, buyers can expect to find chambray in tailoring, fine cord in surfer styles and workwear in luxe fabrics. Considered detailing and playful prints add interest to the collection and, with a successful showing at both London Collections: Men and Pitti Uomo in Florence, it is clear to see Universal Works is set to continue going from strength to strength.

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26

Product news Rounding up the key stories this month

28

In-season stock

30

Turning 50 with a smile

Summer lovin’ Profiling menswear independent John Douglas

32

Show review: Pitti uomo Six of the stand-out labels at last month’s show

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JULY 2014 | GENT | PRODUCT | 26

RAdAR

PRoducT NEwS

Spotlighting style.

Inside menswear.

SW I M M I NG ALO NG NI C E LY

OPPERMANN ESTABLISHED: 2012 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Minimalism, geometric shapes and high-quality materials are synonymous with Oppermann.

— HISTORY: Founded by two young Swedish brothers, Mattis and Niklas Oppermann, the brand is a mix of Scandinavian simplicity and East London style.

The brainchild of design brothers duo Mattis and Niklas Oppermann, the eponymous accessory label is entering its fourth season and counts the likes of Beymen in Turkey, Boon the Shop in Korea and C’H’C’M in New York as stockists.

A blend of Swedish minimalism and British individuality, the brand presents a concise collection of men’s leather goods for the new season with a focus on simplicity, geometric shapes and premium finishes.

The Oppermann story started when both brothers came to London to study – Mattis for a degree in design and innovation and Niklas a degree in business studies.

“We are both equally involved in the design process, but our skills are complementary,” says Niklas. “Mattis focuses on the materials and construction, while I concentrate on commercial viability of the designs.”

The 30-strong collection ranges from £35 to £369 RRP, with recent success including a collaboration with The British Film Institute, with Oppermann honoured as an official sponsor. Pieces from the collection were given to the jury members including Jim Broadbent, Tom Kingsley and Cillian Murphy. www.oppermann-london.com

Water-friendly footwear label Swims enters its first season as a complete wardrobe brand, offering a total look of shoes, swim shorts, piques, windbreakers, jackets and accessories. It is clear to see through each design that the brand’s DNA has not once been compromised, and while Swims can now be found in over 30 countries in more than 700 stores across the globe, the UK market is still a strong focus for s/s 15.

In terms of the label’s core product, its footwear offer, the Luca Sneaker returns in a range of new colours and also a glow-in-the-dark version.

The swim shorts collection, meanwhile, sees the addition of four new prints, and the collection’s new reversible blouson features the brand’s signature Swims orange interior lining.

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TAI LO R E D APPROAC H For s/s 15, menswear designer Alan Taylor continues his experimental dialogue of merging fashion, indie subculture and visual art to create a quirky collection of wardrobe additions.

While wool remains Taylor’s most prominent fabric, the summer season sees the use of lightweight open-weave wool teamed with hand-manipulated textured organza and hand printed cotton shirting.

Having shown for two seasons as part of Fashion East’s Man catwalk, last month’s London Collections: Men was the first solo presentation for the designer, following his selection as part of the Bright Young Things showcase at Selfridges in 2013.

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ON TREND Seasonal extras: Finishing touches SW EDISH EXPORT Didriksons, Sweden’s leading stylish and functional outdoor clothing brand, returns for s/s 15 with its 1913 Originals collection, inspired by the label’s 100-year heritage.

Dubbed as “the first choice for the discerning, contemporary male”, the latest range – which will be showcased at this month’s Jacket Required trade show – features limited-edition garments that fuse high fashion and function.

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1: ATELIER SCOTCH price on request 020 3137 3901 2: BEN SHERMAN £20 020 7812 5300 3: SIMON CARTER £11 020 8683 4475 4: MARWOOD £44 07973 429177 5: RORY HUTTON Price on request 07933 032973

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

BRAnD To WATcH

HARDY AMIES “We began by exploring a substantial body of work from Hardy’s interior design collection, specifically focusing on the prints of Hardy’s own range from the 70s and the influence of interior designer William Haines,” says mehmet Ali, design director, on the start point for the Hardy Amies s/s 15 collection. “This formed the beginnings of the story and provided an interesting colour palette to work with.”

The colour palette comprises pistachio green, seen on the collection’s four-pocket utility mac, a double-breasted jacket in chambray blue, light coral concealed button-down garment-dye poplin shirts and bold splashes of yellow, spotted across accessories, knitwear and outerwear.

Highlights of the range include the Yarmouth sailing coat, made in Italy with bonded cotton and a brushed cotton cord collar. Other standout pieces are printed grid-patterned swimwear, luxury espadrilles and canvas double monks; the latter of which are a continued collaboration between the brand and footwear label Grenson. www.hardyamies.com

ESTABLISHED: 1946 — SIGNATURE STYLE: Designed for the quintessential English gent, Hardy Amies is slick and sophisticated, with the double-breasted blazer standing as the brand’s signature piece.

— HISTORY: Founded by Sir Edwin Hardy Amies, the label started life on Savile Row, catering for both menswear and womenswear, including dressing Queen Elizabeth II for her Silver Jubilee portrait in 1977.

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JULY 2014 | GENT | PRODUCT | 28

TRIWA 48 020 737 79083

HENRI LLOYD £40 0161 799 1212

ANTHONY MILES £37.90 0116 238 7090

EDWIN £40 07415 506272

MARWOOD £25 020 7729 5696

PERCIVAL PRICE ON REQUEST 020 7734 4533

REALM & EMPIRE £18 07446 110138

SummeR LoVIn’ moving further into high summer, beach basics and relaxed dressing are at the forefront of customers’ wardrobe wish lists this month.

Prints dominate, with 70s graphics sitting next to tropical florals and signature nautical stripes.

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SWIMS £42 0161 222 8048

GUIDE £13 020 748 1111

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

BEN SHERMAN £19.20 020 7812 5300

For wholesale enquiries, please contact Anna or Ward at Double H Agency

Anna - anna.doubleh@gmail.com / +44 (0)203 432 6387 Ward - ward.doubleh@gmail.com / +44 (0)7810 872 320 www.uk.eden-park.com Facebook/EdenParkUK

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JULY 2014 | GENT | PROFILE | 30

TuRnInG 50 WITH A SmILe John Douglas in macclesfield celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. It’s been a varied journey, but notably one full of enjoyment for the business, as Tom Bottomley discovers from owner David Johnson.

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When the original John Douglas shop opened its doors in 1964, it occupied a much smaller unit than it does today. The business, which is still located on Chestergate in Macclesfield, was started by David Johnson’s father, John Douglas Johnson, and older brother Richard. It was financed by the sale of a plot of garden for the miserly sum of about £3,000. The brands were very classic menswear at that time, such as Magee, Bladen and Chester Barrie.

Reminiscing over the 50 years, David and brother Richard recently counted up to 160 different brands and manufacturers they’ve dealt with during that time. Out of that list there’s probably only about 20% that have survived.

“Magee is one brand that has actually come the full journey with us,” says Johnson. “Though we don’t do a lot of business with them now because the business has moved on. We moved away from being very classic menswear, where the client base would buy to replace something that had worn out. We can now boast a business that can offer something for lads, dads and granddads.

There’s no age on style in John Douglas.”

The hire business has also been an important mainstay of the shop, though Johnson admits that side has slackened off somewhat in recent years, as more people seem to get married abroad, and are more likely to buy a modern cut suit these days. Gibson London does well for them on that front.

Johnson reckons much of the store’s success, as well as good banter on the shop-floor, is down to buying the right fits for different shapes – and buying the size scales accordingly. Something that only comes with experience, and a knowledge of your local market.

One great story from the shop-floor concerns an old boy, and regular customer of John Douglas over the years, who’d never owned a pair of jeans in his life. That is, until one day when he came into the shop and asked David Johnson to find him a suitable pair. “Not even in his 20s or 30s did this guy wear jeans,” offers Johnson. “Then, at the age of 78, he came in one Christmas and said, ‘I want a pair of jeans.’” Not on your average bucket list, that’s for sure. “I sorted him out with a classic fit pair of Camel Active jeans in a dark wash, a nice pair of brogues, shirt and slim-fitting Tweed jacket – he’d looked after himself. I said to him, ‘Don’t think of this as a Tweed jacket as such, though, think of it more as a coat. So we turned the collar up, tied a sharp scarf around his neck, and he looked a million dollars. He said, ‘You know what, I don’t feel 10 years’ younger, I feel 20 years’ younger.’ And with that he asked me to bin the clothes he’d walked in wearing, and he went out wearing his new kit with a fresh spring in his step, jeans et al. That sums up that there’s no age on style, and that’s a classic John Douglas story.”

In 1974, ten years after he’d founded the business, David and Richard’s father John passed

away – at the age of 53, from cancer. “The shop had moved to our current premises by then,” explains Johnson. “And I came into the business as a very naïve 17 year old – not knowing much about it at all. My brother is 11 years my senior. At the time I was needed to make the numbers up really. And I’ve been here ever since.”

Johnson says they’ve ridden through three recessions, and always strived to keep expanding the business. It sounds very much like a continuous refurbishment programme. The shop now consists of eight different rooms over two different premises – knocked through. It’s like a little department store. Each room is themed, and creates its own atmosphere. There’s a suit area on the first floor, a jacket area with smart “going out” shirts, a denim area and a basement full of outerwear – dominated by Barbour product. “And recently we’ve noted a gap on the high street for footwear, so we’ve just refurbished the front room to give our footwear offer more of a focus,” he says. “We stock Loake’s Design range, and we can’t believe how well that’s taken off. It’s taken our footwear to another level. It’s a little bit younger and more ‘fashion’. We’re now selling 20% more footwear already, that’s just in the first half of the year.”

Part of the John Douglas building is 16th Century, which Johnson admits has presented some problems when it comes to pre-conceived ideas of what type of product they sell. “It’s more

DAVID JOHNSON

of a problem with image in terms of ‘old world’ and being old fashioned, which we’re definitely not. It’s a battle we’ve fought ever since we’ve been here. So we work hard on the windows to make them really stand out. They express a much more modern angle on the merchandise we sell.”

Although Richard is still involved in the business and works on the shop floor, David is very much the driving force of the business, and says he has been really for the past 20 years or so.

“Richard has been quite happy for me to drive the business forward with my passion and enthusiasm,” he says. “And he has his own client base. As a family business, it’s very much about people and building relationships. Humour on the shop floor is also key. It’s about making fashion fun.”

Aside from his brother, David Johnson says his right-hand man in the business is Keith Patient, who’s been working for them for some 25 years.

“He’s very passionate about what he does and very much reads from the same page as I do. He’s in here every morning at 8am, even when there’s nothing urgent to do. That’s just the way he is. He knows a lot of people in Macclesfield. In fact, in many ways, Keith is Mister Macclesfield.”

In terms of competition on menswear, Johnson says that mainly comes from other areas such as Wilmslow and Manchester. “Macclesfield, like any small town, is suffering,” he says. “But, where we’re positioned on Chestergate, it’s pretty

“We stock Loake’s Design range, and we can’t believe how well that’s taken off. It’s taken our footwear to another level. It’s a little bit younger and more ‘fashion’. We’re now selling 20% more footwear already, that’s just in the first half of the year”

much surrounded by familyowned businesses. As one closes, another one opens, but there are a few that have stood the test of time.

Chestergate is a little niche area within Macclesfield really. I wouldn’t call it affluent, but it’s medium to better ground. It’s not in the same kind of league as the likes of Wilmslow, Prestbury or Knutsford. But Macclesfield does have the heritage of being a silk town.”

It’s also famous for Hovis bread. One of the big original Hovis mills was established there. And John Douglas has just won a silver medal for a Hovis inspired window, with old bread tins, Grenson brogue boots, waistcoats and flat caps. “It’s to do with a local summer festival and it’s totally out of season,” Johnson offers. “But it’s got us noticed. We have four windows, so there’s never time to stand still in this shop. And, with the shop being split over three floors, as well as a basement, it’s a full time keep fit class on a busy day in here.”

When another menswear independent did try to move in on their patch, with a shop literally 100 yards up the road, they initially

only thought of it as healthy competition – despite the other shop selling around 6-8 brands which were already available in John Douglas. “However, the stubborn retailer in question decided his A-board needed to be outside the wrong shop,” explains Johnson. “So he placed it outside our shop – advertising the brands that we were selling.

We walked the board down to his shop, and said we’d appreciate it if he kept it outside his own shop, rather than ours.”

But, two days later, the same A-board appeared outside John Douglas again. “It was the beginning of the A-board wars! Short of jumping up and down on it like Basil Fawlty, which I was restrained from doing, it later got resolved by the town planning lady. It could have escalated into something, but thankfully diplomacy won in the end.” The retailer in question only lasted on Chestergate for a couple of years, before no doubt trying his A-board trick elsewhere. John Douglas, however, now celebrates 50 years, and David Johnson does it with a smile.

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JULY 2014 | GENT | REVIEW | 32

PITTI uomo The 86th edition of Pitti, which coincided with the 60th anniversary of the centro di Firenze per la moda Italiana and a whole host of events celebrating Firenze Hometown of Fashion, didn’t disappoint.

There was a genuine buzz about the event, and it seemed back to its busy best, with some excellent collections on show. Tom Bottomley takes his pick of the highlights.

—  BIG UNCLE Only in its third season, this fresh brand from Milan ticked all the right boxes in terms of looks, styling and story. Influenced by 60s and 70s California, the name stems from how a kid was influenced by his stylish uncle’s dress sense growing up, as opposed to his own father’s. There’ll be a few people who can relate to that. There were some wearable pieces in great fabrics, featuring unstructured jackets, striped shirts and lightweight waistcoats, as well as some dapper cotton and linen mix trousers made on a 60s Japanese piece of machinery. All in all it had a certain quirkiness to it that gave it an edge from other brands in the Touch! area.

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 C LO SE D Closed is a big brand perhaps forgotten about on these shores, with a contemporary s/s 15 collection that featured plenty of strong pieces. Aloha prints, an indigo story, great sweats, outerwear and, of course, denim. There was even a new, albeit small, capsule collaboration with on-the-button Japanese label Riding High. Closed doesn’t currently have anyone selling for it in the UK, but is selling directly out of Paris and Milan. It’s a label that’s been around since 1978 – which may surprise a few people. Founded in Italy, now based in Hamburg (where the current owners, who bought the brand in 1992, live). There are no live UK accounts at the minute and, for this reason, it’s got to be worth a look with fresh eyes when a point of difference is becoming increasingly valuable. Prices sit around the A.P.C. and Acne mark.

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 SPE LLBOUND BY SI MPLI CI T Y Showing at Pitti for the fourth time, though apparently around since 1981, Spellbound from Japan was another label with the right credentials – distributed in the UK by Brick Lane denim specialist retailer Son of a Stag. Jeans retail for between €250 and €350, so it ain’t cheap, but then nor does it look it. Aside from very good selvedge denim and chinos, there was lightweight chambray and garment-dyed work-style shirting and hibiscus-print indigo jackets and shorts that ticked all the right boxes. An unstructured three-button polka-dot jacket also hit the mark. It may not leave you Spellbound, but it’s mighty fine kit, all the same.

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JULY 2014 | GENT | REVIEW | 33

 VOTOLE Another one to throw up something a bit stand out in the Touch! area, Votole – again from Japan – is just one year old. A debutant at Pitti for this show, a three-piece check suit – with shorts not trousers – would certainly get you noticed, but is probably best broken up. There were some tasty washed shirting, beautifully cut trousers with small turn-ups, and linen waistcoats. It was smart, lightweight and colourful, indeed “very Pitti”, but there were also easy pieces such as a super-lightweight hooded field jacket. Even the hibiscus print scarves could liven up a dowdy look. It’s one to watch, and it will be interesting to see how the brand takes things for autumn/winter 2015.

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 I ST PAT- R N Post Pitti, this is now to be handled in the UK for the first time by agency Index London. Ist Pat-Rn is easy on the eye, and it’s easy to see the appeal. Now in its fifth season, there are only two factories in Italy that produce the Cavalry di Maglia fabric that defines the soft tailoring of the jackets. It’s a garment-dyed cotton twill, effectively, with a fairly unique look and touch. A very tight collection, featuring military and workwear detailing, key pieces include the double-breasted six-button blazer, and single-breasted version three gold brass buttons. There’s a heavy cotton grandad-style top, and a wearable shawl collar work jacket in a French blue. Simple, wide-cut, indigo fabric work pants are also of note. Inspired by vintage, but executed for a modern audience.

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 HART F O R D What can one say? This brand just gets stronger. The collection grows, the Pitti stand grows (this time with an additional outdoor area for the swimwear alone), but the quality and style remain eye-catching and intact. It’s one of those collections you just want to dive well into and kit yourself out in for the season.

The most prominent of the themes for s/s 15 is the West Coast 60s California vibe, with “surf” artwork on tees, pastel-hued chinos and shorts, Aloha prints and floral motifs.

There was a major focus on shirts and shorts, and some cool outerwear pieces. There was also a nod to East Coast styling with preppy looks, slim button-down shirts and three-button blazers in ultra-light cotton piqué. A true Pitti highlight.

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JULY 2014 | COLLECTION NEWS | 36

coLLecTIon neWS mWB brings you the news, developments and innovations from some of the key names in mainstream menswear this spring/summer 2015 season, with the introduction of new fabrics, colourways and a more trend-led approach to many collections.

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 J O HN SMEDLEY Staying true to the nautical theme this season, British label John Smedley offers a series of key styles in Breton stripes, updated via a palette inspired by seaside horizons. New textures are also a feature, taking inspiration from both the rough and smooth landscapes found at sea. A new micro-textured finish is introduced across both fine and chunky gauge styles, adding a modern twist to the fisherman sweater. Modern Fair Isle knits, meanwhile, feature a microwave pattern, incorporated with key grandad collar designs.

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 ARROW Now featuring a fully comprehensive collection of wardrobe staples, Arrow offers shirting as well as co-ordinating polo shirts, denim, trousers and jackets for s/s 15. In terms of the brand’s core shirt range, newness is transitioned from slim-fit to a fitted version, placing emphasis on the balance between collar and waist measurement.

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 SOXK S  BRUHL Following on from a successful a/w 14 season, with an overall increase of 18 per cent, trouser specialist Bruhl returns with a series of new fabrics and colourways. New details and modern linings are used in interpretations of classic lines from the brand’s 90-year history.

Styles ranges from scoop and 5-pocket jeans, classic chinos through to slimmer fits with narrower bottoms. Fabrics, meanwhile, include a new trend-driven two-tone canvas, offered in muted neutral tones of khaki and sand, while the jeans collection introduces a new coated denim for the more fashion-focused shopper.

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Founded last year by design duo Matt Bowden and Arthur Burnand, eclectic sock label Soxks is entering the UK market under the direction of Michael Spriggs Agency. Designed to “bring creative energy and a philosophical approach to the world of hosiery”, the debut line from the fledging label is a colour-filled range of quirky designs featuring hand-stitched toes and embroidered logos.

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JULY 2014 | COLLECTION NEWS | 37

 E T E R NA Smart, distinctive, architectural-inspired minimal prints set the tone of Eterna’s s/s 15 collection. Prints are featured on robust fabrics and stretch materials, while newness comes in the form of a stretch fabric with a non-iron quality. Furthermore, the brand is expanding its Design Line with the introduction of new dobby weave patterns, brocades and textured weaves – either as an over-dye or as a chambray. The key look in Eterna’s s/s 15 offering is its white shirt range, including fancy adornments and rich-in-contrast collar versions.

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 BR AX Now managed by NP Agency in the UK market, complete with a new showroom on Regent Street, German label Brax returns this summer with a collection inspired by Barcelona. A highlight of the new offering includes the use of Peruvian Pima cotton, and the ultra-soft pique structure developed from it exclusively for Brax.

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 MMX The premium line at popular German trouser label Meyer, MMX continues to go from strength to strength with its comprehensive collection of high-end designs. Featuring luxe silk, combined with cotton and fleece wool, the materials used come from some of the best weavers in Europe. Using innovative material combinations, the s/s 15 line provides summer variants of popular classics, made from airy lightweight linen and super-stretch Pima cotton, adjusting to the body’s temperature and ensuring a comfortable fit.

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 PR E T T Y GR E E N Celebrating five years since its inception, British label Pretty Green presented its most comprehensive – and varied – range to date at last month’s London Collections: Men. Taking place at the famous Gibson Brand studio, the collection – dubbed The Production – featured a series of limited-edition pieces including directional tailoring, fine gauge knits and optical print shirts.

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JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 40

TRenDS oF SummeR

cInque

BuGATTI

mAc BRAx

ARRoW

For its first in-depth look at spring/summer 2015, mWB highlights five of the key emerging trends for the season ahead, ranging from sports-inspired businesswear through to a more premium take on signature casual wardrobe staples.

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JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 41

camel active

casual friday

city active The growing trend for a more active lifestyle – including cycling and running in day-to-day life – has driven the need for garments that incorporate elements to allow movement, breathability and comfort. Buyers can expect a trend characterised by sweatshirts, jogging bottoms, bomber-style jackets, stretch cotton tees and accessories such as backpacks. Jogging and sport styles featuring draw cords and cuffs at the hem dominate the season for trouser specialist MAC, for example, which also sees the introduction of so-called Fitness Denim – utilising 25 per cent increased elasticity, adjusting to every movement while still looking authentic. The Sweat Denim, meanwhile, is available in a range of washes and is dyed exactly like denim, while detailing such as reflective strips are discreetly sewn onto the back pockets.

Innovations are key to the trend, with the likes of Bugatti and Calamar applying the use of Airseries® and Gore-Tex® respectively. Airseries®, for example, is used to decrease the weight of items, perfect for travelling, while welded seams in mesh laminate, subtle pocket solutions and a super-light exterior layer are created with the use of Gore-Tex®.

Layering is central to this trend, although clean silhouettes and a subdued colour palette keep this look summer appropriate.

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calamar

bruhl

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JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 42

camel active

bugatti

merc

digel

olymp

army luxe Although not a too distant memory from last season, camouflage prints and cargo trousers return for s/s 15 with a more grown-up take on safari.

Stripped back and pared down visually, this trend is clean, low-key and focuses on the finer detail. Lifestyle label Camel Active captures the trend perfectly with its Vintage Travel Route collection, featuring camouflage-inspired patterns on course-grained canvas blazers, while Digel presents an outerwear highlight – the washed field jacket with waxed cotton and contrasting coloured zips and patch pockets with garment dye. Of course, outerwear continues to be key at the likes of mod label Merc, with a lightweight parka on offer, while shirt specialist Olymp introduces a series of cold-dye casual T-shirts in botanic shades of green, from greyed-out olive nuances through to apple tones.

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joules

olymp

skopes

atelier gardeur

JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 44

fynch hatton

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JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 45

cinque

casa moda

roy robson

jupiter

ocean club Moving forward from the familiar nautical trend this season, influence is drawn from the likes of the Italian Riviera and the South of France – expect premium finishes and high-quality fabrics. Of course, the core of the trend, the red, white and blue colour palette, is still paramount, except with tones softer, almost vintage in finish. British label Joules executes this theme perfectly, with a series of coastal classics and a combination of stripes and prints with bursts of green and purple to add interest, while the brand’s new Right as Rain collection of waterproof jackets are key for the UK market.

Outerwear label Jupiter, meanwhile, features shimmering ripstop fabrics on the maritime segment of its s/s 15 collection, which comprises sportive blousons through to long-line jackets, while menswear label Skopes continues its return to a smarter style of dressing, even with more casual pieces such as its stone windcheater, featuring navy and red lining and piping. Lightweight fabrics are key to this trend, with cotton crepe spotted throughout the likes of Roy Robson, which features sophisticated fine top dyed horizontal stripes in a contrasting colour. The luxe maritime theme, meanwhile, continues through shirting at German label Olymp, with various blue and aquatic nuances sitting next to beige and strawberry accents – three key shades for the season.

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JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 46

uno

olymp

hint of pink

eterna

digel

arrow

Pastel tones, primarily pink shades, are prevalent throughout shirting this season, with newness coming in the form of refined collar shapes and pared-down detailing. Washed qualities are highlighted, with cotton and linen shirts at Olymp, for example, offering a summery lightness with faded yarns for a vintage worn finish. While plain colours are partially bleached, to create a relaxed “used” look, prints are also key to this trend, with brands such as Uno, a fashion-led segment of the Seidensticker collection, presenting the popular Ikat motif, used repeatedly all over shirting. Eterna, meanwhile, takes a more classic option while still retaining the use of pink in its Miami-inspired checked non-iron shirt model. Contrasting adornments on collars and cuffs take a back seat, with emphasis placed on piping on button tabs and ribbon banding in collar insides. This trend lets the colour do the talking.

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CONTACT AND SALES HEADOFFICE GERMANY VENTI, GUTENBERGSTRASSE 7, 26135 OLDENBURG, FON 0049 (0) 441 20660, WWW.VENTI.COM SCOTTLAND: NORMAN JAMES, MOBILE +44 178 6880338, NCDJAMES@AOL.COM SOUTH ENGLAND: Alan Chapman, FON +44 1322403552, ALAN@CHAPMANAGENCIES.COM MANCHESTER AREA: JOHN WILKINSON, FON +44 7831307693, JOHNWILKINSONAGENCIES@GMAIL.COM

www.mwb-online.co.uk

JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | TRENDS | 48

cg club of gents

casual fridays

benvenuto black label

cinque

bugatti

roy robson

Although there is a significant return to smarter dressing across the menswear sector, there is a still a need for casual tailoring. For example, a new extensive range of unlined blazer styles made from jersey have been added to Roy Robson’s s/s 15 collection, with double-faced fabrics with a print on the reverse key to this style. Buyers can also expect to see modified blazer models with rounder shoulders, softer armholes and therefore less interfacing and lining. Jerseys remain a central theme throughout the Cinque collection, meanwhile, with modern minimal designs alongside stretch cotton products in washed structures. Another label to incorporate jersey is Bugatti, where highlights include a 250 gm/mm jersey pique and jersey in a mesh look, where the comfort factor is reinforced by Flexity linings. Although single-breasted styles such as the relaxed denim model at CG Club of Gents dominate the trend, double-breasted blazers in linen cotton can be spotted across the board but still remain wearable for less formal occasions.

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www.mwb-online.co.uk

JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | RETAIL ROUND-UP | 50

retail round-up tom bottomley speaks to six of the uk’s key independent retailers about the season ahead and what approach they’ve taken to keeping customers coming through the door, when a number of high-profile menswear retailers have shut-up shop in 2014.

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PHILIP BROW NE, OW NE R , PHI LI P BROW NE , NO RW I C H you always go to pitti, so why weren’t you there this time around?

It’s the first time I’ve not been to Pitti for about a decade. But I wanted a break; to take stock and not let the creative juices be influenced by anything. I’ve booked my Pitti trip for January already; I did that two months ago. Autumn/winter is so much stronger. That’s one of the other reasons I wasn’t there for the summer show; what is the spring/summer season now? What do people buy in February, March and April? Not very much is the answer. It’s become quite a worthless season, to be honest, and for that reason I’m cutting my spend back and putting more into autumn/winter. do you think things have changed with regard to spring/summer?

The old way of loading yourself up with stock for February through to June is over. Sales over this period represent such a small percentage, though sales have been buoyant since our Sale started mid-June. All we seem to be doing for this season is loading our shelves up with stock in February and March, only for the customer to now have been taught via research on the web to wait until the discounting starts. In fact, the big boys were discounting – with up to 30 per cent off – from 1 May. And with big labels, too. It’s killing the season in many respects, but you have to buy something, and count on the brands, otherwise what do you put in the shop? But what do you need to do to make it a profitable spring/summer these days? Call me an old cynic, but it’s almost like we’re becoming a Waterstones bookshop. It takes 70 per cent of its money in a threemonth period – November, December and January. The rest of it is just about paying bills. what are brands doing to combat such discounting?

Some of the big brands are starting to properly police online discounting. And unless companies start the process of protecting their label’s identity on the web, and how it is sold, some will ultimately become TK Maxx product. Louis Vuitton apparently burns any excess stock. That’s the ultimate in brand protection. Stone Island is also one of the best at protecting prices. It’s a luxury product, so it should be sold at a luxury price. It’s about desirability – and that’s why customers have historically bought it in the first place. Mark-down periods need to be synergised and controlled.

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M ART I N SC HNE I DE R , OW NE R , AC C E NT, LE E DS you’re known for your denim offer, have there been any surprises recently in that area?

D.I.E is a denim brand that has come in and hit the ground running. It’s not often you get that with a denim label, because people tend to stick with brands and fits they know. But they’ve been very willing to try D.I.E, and they like what they see. We had a great wash in from PRPS, but it was retailing at £250. D.I.E has done the same kind of wash, retailing at £100, and that’s done so well for us. In terms of jackets, Matchless has also been successful, with both the leathers and waxed cottons – it’s very Belstaff looking. We do well with both brands. do you put your money into the so-called “pre-collections” offered from many brands?

No, we’re staying away from those. We have enough stock constantly coming in as it is, and our sell-throughs are better for it. I think it’s better to stay on your toes and see what happens in-season. For instance, last July the sales guy from MQT came in with a load of chinos that had been professionally turned into shorts – all in different colours. He hung them on a rope behind the counter, and they just flew. Everyone else had sold out of shorts, but people were only just starting to go on holiday, and the weather had warmed up.

We sold around 300 pairs. you’re celebrating your 30th anniversary this year, do you have anything special planned?

We will be having a big party in the last week of September, though no date is confirmed as yet. Grenson, which we’ve stocked from day one, is making us an Accent 30th anniversary brogue, in an oxblood leather with navy blue stitching, all handmade – with the Accent logo embossed on the sole and stamped on the inside. And Replay, another brand that has been with us from the start, is making us 30 pairs of anniversary jeans, all numbered in a limited-edition wash, with leather patch and Accent-embossed logo. They will be sold in the shop, though one pair will be raffled off on the night, along with other special products. Denham is also making us 30 pairs of anniversary jeans, all numbered and signed by Jason Denham. And Lyle & Scott is making us a 30th anniversary polo shirt.

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JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | RETAIL ROUND-UP | 51

J AM E S BROW N, OW NE R , HO ST E M , LO NDO N E 2 what direction are you taking with your buying?

We’re streamlining it. Coming into our fifth year in business, we’ve finally got a grasp on our customer base. Whereas the likes of Mayfair has more of an obvious following, we have more of a destination client. People make more of a conscious effort to bring themselves over to this side of London. With regard to this, we’ve had extreme success with our more artisan narratives, but we’ve also learnt which brands work best for us. However, there is a turning point in the industry where it’s now slightly moving away from the artisan and workwear looks. so where do you see it going next?

It seems to be pushing back to the high-fashion end, which is interesting for us. For instance, we’re getting asked for brands such as Raf Simons, which we’ve got coming in, as well as Dries Van Noten.

Lanvin is another one people are asking for again. It’s the fashion houses, as opposed to just fashion. People are starting to veer back to the fashion power houses. Prada, for example, has been pumping out amazing collections for the last two or three seasons – for both men and women. We’re not doing Prada – sometimes you can get them, sometimes you can’t. But we’re looking to make sure that side of our client base is also taken care of as well as the artisan fans that we have – which is perhaps what we’ve become known for. Not that we want to move away from it, but we definitely want to develop our client base. We’re not afraid to mix brands and looks, giving our customers a better understanding of how you can break them up and match them together as opposed to just wearing a “uniform”. is the look to be seen in changing then?

From a streetwear perspective, as in style on the street, I’d say it’s becoming a lot more elegant. It was maybe a bit grungy before. In terms of our customers, we’re definitely having a want and need for not only our artisan labels, but also the higher price point fashion house brands such as Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons.

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ANDY M AYBE E , BU YE R , J O HN ANT HO NY, BAT H, BO U R NE M O U T H, BR I STO L, SW I NDO N, OXF O R D AND SO U T HAM PTO N what are your moves regarding buying for s/s 15?

I’ve been back and forth to Paris, firstly looking at Helmut Lang and then Carven and Acne. I also went back to do D Squared and Y-3, and took a look at the shows. I didn’t do Pitti this time. To be honest, we’re tightening up on budgets, and we pretty much know what we want. And we’re looking to back the ones that are selling at the moment. Brands such as Stone Island and CP Company are working very well. Armani Jeans has also been fantastic, and we’re bringing in Hugo Boss for a/w 14 and s/s 15. Labels such as Carven and Acne are quite new to us, so we need to see how it goes. what about with your footwear offer?

A brand called Filling Pieces seems to be one that’s on everyone’s radar at the moment. It’s quite a cool Dutch trainer label, and we’re looking to bring it in for next season. It appeals across the ages, and it’s quite a clean look. All those loud trainers have slowed down for us. I think people are going back to more of a traditional court trainer look. Brands such as Creative Recreation do a classic look, which seems to be doing well for us at the moment. what do you make of the summer sales increasingly happening earlier?

I think we’re all fighting against Sales starting too early. It was always around the end of July, then it was mid-July, then end of June. But now, because of the multiples, it’s been brought forward yet again and we’re going on Sale in the middle of June. It’s just too early. It’s ok for the multiples, because they’re most likely getting kick-backs from the suppliers, but the smaller guys can’t get that, yet we have to follow suit. When the likes of House of Fraser, John Lewis, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges start to go on Sale, especially with the online factor coming into it so strongly, you’ve almost got no choice. what can be done to combat the online discounting?

I think the bigger brands are starting to police it a lot more in terms of who they let have their product. That needs to happen because it’s become a discount medley. I think there was something like 85 online accounts selling Ralph Lauren at one time, but that’s been cut back to around 20. We’re launching a much slicker website ourselves towards the end of July.

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www.mwb-online.co.uk

JULY 2014 | BRAND GUIDE | RETAIL ROUND-UP | 52

ROWAN HINES, OW NE R , RO O M 14, ASHTO N- U NDE R - LYNE what are you doing to give your shop a point of difference?

Over the last few seasons we’ve been conscious that our offer has to be different from the high street for us to stand out. Our brand mix now covers anything from streetwear through to wellestablished heritage brands, and this has worked well for us. If anything it’s made us even more of a destination shop. what’s your view on sales increasingly starting earlier?

Every year is trickier than the last when it comes to Sale time, as the multiples and online retailers go into Sale earlier and earlier. It puts small independents like ourselves under massive pressure, as we can’t afford to lose precious margins by going into Sale at the same time as the big boys. It would crucify our business. The only answer is to hold out and hope your product is strong enough, and sellthrough at full price. It would be great to see the powers that be set a date in the summer, and also at Christmas, that everyone could stick to. But sadly retail sales are too volatile, and it becomes every man for himself. what have you got coming in to liven things up in-store?

For this autumn we’ve brought in a couple of new brands – Anerkjendt and Good For Nothing. We’ve brought Anerkjendt in as we’ve generally had success with Scandinavian brands in the past.

Over the last couple of seasons Humor has worked well for us, and Anerkjendt comes across as its cool older brother, so they should sit perfectly together. Good For Nothing is another addition to our streetwear stable. Our core demographic is 16-30 and the streetwear side to our business is where we’ve seen the most growth and volume. Hot brands for us right now are Abandon Ship, Cuckoo’s Nest, Fred Perry, Farah Vintage, Humor, Creative Recreation and Clae. Good For Nothing has been seen on a few of the current popular reality shows, and the brand has a big social-media following – which is perfect for our customer. looking ahead to s/s 15, are you planning any drastic changes to your buying?

We’re looking to keep the brand mix pretty much the same, apart from a couple of introductions. We were happy with the sell-through last season, so have decided that if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. As far as product is concerned, we’re hoping that our brands continue to push the boundaries design-wise. Our customers can be pretty adventurous and aren’t put off by something new, so hopefully the collections we see can offer us that.

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PE T E R T U R NE R , OW NE R , W E LL GO SH, LE I C E ST E R how are you viewing buying for s/s 15?

We are backing our best brands and increasing our forward orders with them, while at the same time becoming more aggressive in cutting back or dropping brands that haven't been working.

Customers are now savvy and selective about where they want to spend their money. is it now more important to buy more and replenish in-season with short-order options?

More and more brands are offering short-order and in-season drops, and we are keen to hold back a proportion of the seasonal budget to cater for injection ranges and to re-order bestselling lines. is streetwear firmly back on the map as a growing trend?

Although we have never seen ourselves as purely a streetwear store, and have diversified quite a lot over the years, we are still keen to offer a premium range of what we see as the best and most relevant brands in this genre. We are definitely seeing a big interest in what is probably a core look for us. Increasingly, traditionally smarter or “dressy” brands are taking influences from streetwear looks and trying to offer their own take on it. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. We have a few core brands that have defined and shaped the look and feel of our store and which have been ever present from day one. Stüssy and Carhartt are prime examples, showing how longterm brand and store relationships should work. It’s also always cyclic. As the catwalks began to mix in street influences, the interest in the original innovators of streetwear grows and this in turn has helped develop the popularity of the look. who are the new kids on the block in this area that are attracting younger customers who weren’t here the first time round?

We are doing well with brands such as Palace, Billionaire Boys Club, 10 Deep, Black Scale and Huf. They offer an edgy product that the next generation of streetwear customer can identify with. are you benefiting greatly from this new explosion of trainer interest?

Adidas and Nike are leading the way for us and we are seeing more and more interest in their top-tier and exclusive offerings, with both of these brands great at giving a modern take on classic styles. Asics, New Balance and Puma are also innovative in their marketing strategies, and we’ve seen strong offerings from all of these labels for the coming months.

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JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | CONTENTS | 55

D E N I M

&

S T R E E T

fashion, form and function This season Bench presents a strong collection driven by the continued demand for multi-purpose, functional clothing. Split into three phases across both Life and Performance ranges, each product has been designed for the “active and style-conscious city dweller”. The first of the three phases, Safety utilises elements such as moisture-wicking technologies to regulate temperature in the summer. The second phase, Adaptability, focuses on lightweight layering, which features waterproofing and breathability while maintaining its versatility.

The third and final phase, Motion provides an enhancement of movement with the use of anatomic construction through displaced seams and high reach sleeves. Stretch panels on shorts and rib panels also enhance movement and activity.

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56

product news

67

dl1961 giving jeans the xfit factor

68

northern soul

Rounding up the key stories this month

58

in-season stock

60

brick lane highlights

Festival fever Key names to catch at this season’s Jacket Required

64

london collections: men The best of last month’s London showcase

Premium denim label DL1961’s first foray into menswear MWB’s seasonal young fashion photoshoot

www.mwb-online.co.uk

JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 56

radar

product news

spotlighting style.

inside menswear.

A SPR I NG DE BU T

DIESEL ESTABLISHED: 1978 — HISTORY: Founded by Renzo Rosso, the denim label was created when Rosso bought 40 per cent of clothing manufacturer Moltex, which was owned by Adriano Goldschmied, and subsequently changed its name to Diesel.

— SIGNATURE STYLE: Renowned for its experimental fits and innovative washes and finishes, Diesel has developed into a distinctive high-fashion label, with the appointment of artistic Nicola Formichetti, and has a clear vision running through both men’s and womenswear.

Independent and anti-preppy; two buzzwords used to describe the pre s/s 15 collection from denim specialist Diesel, which sees the latest creative offering from artistic director Nicola Formichetti.

Split into three sub categories, including Preppy Rock, Tattoo and Black Carpet, the line-up includes sporty logo jackets and sweaters, graphic-embellished casualwear and a subversive take on classic eveningwear.

Taking a closer look into each segment, preppy Rock sees cleancut varsity jackets given an edge with frayed denim sleeves and styled with skinny leather pants. Big letters, numbers and Greek letters in blue, yellow and red are logoed on pockets of tailored blazers, sweatshirts and classic caps.

Tattoo, meanwhile, features strong graphic prints, which appear like ink-work over leather jackets, embroidered on satin bombers or printed onto scarves. Leather biker jackets combine tattoo prints with metal emblem hardware and zip detailing.

Finally, the brand’s take on red-carpet eveningwear sees check and black shirts trimmed with detachable ruffles, tuxedo jackets with denim inserts or lapel and tonal black Swarovski crystals on front pockets.

Mirrored silver moccasins and pointed black boots give the elegant looks a flinty edge. www.diesel.com

Canadian outerwear specialist Canada Goose launches its first spring outdoor performance collection for s/s 15, designed to offer warmth, protection and flexibility needed for the unpredictable spring weather.

The range features new styles as well as updates to some of the brand’s top-selling lightweight styles that can be worn either layered or on their own. Newness comes from breathable, water-resistant Soft Shells that are flexible and designed to move with the wearer.

The performance-driven Technical Shells and award-winning HyBridge Lite styles will also be available in a series of bright colours with contrasting trims.

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T HE LE GAC Y C O NT I NU E S Drawing inspiration from the clothing produced after the Second World War, menswear label Garbstore presents a comprehensive collection for s/s 15, comprising a range of traditional wardrobe staples re-imagined to fit today’s wearer. Sourcing material from Western Japan, the brand continues to utilise the finest, high-quality denim crafted in the way for which it is renowned.

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www.mwB-oNlINE.co.uk

JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 57

ON TREND Seasonal extras: Summer shoes

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1: BELLFIELD £6.50 07712 522874 2: SIKSILK £10 07792 269860 3: DOUBLE IDENTITY £10.50 07762 526027 4: FLOSSY price on request wholesale@frenziwear.co.uk 5: RANSOMS £41.50 0161 236 9855

A NEW NAU T I C AL Henri Lloyd presents a new take on nautical this season, as it showcases a smarter look across its apparel and footwear offer.

Timeless staples are given a new twist, providing a modern spin on firm favourites.

Stripes remain a key trend across the board for s/s 15, while inspiration isn’t just taken from the sea – expect influences from the Riviera and classic Cannes styling via relaxed tailoring and a clean colour palette.

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Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

BRANd To wATcH

BARLEYCORN Following a successful relaunch for a/w 14, footwear label Barleycorn gets ready to start a new chapter in its history for the summer season, with a strong focus on markets such as France, Scandinavia, Asia and the uk.

A welcomed highlight this season is the New Classic. Mixing the comfort typical of the sports shoe and the fashion element of strong robust leathers, the model features a wave shape midsole and an extra-light outsole, which gives stability, grip and lightness. This latest design is predicted to be a Barleycorn bestseller – definitely one to watch this season.

The Air (pictured), is the perfect synthesis between tradition and innovation of the brand, featuring a hi-tech air bag inserted into the midsole as a cushioning effect for a high performance of style and functionality. With more than 70 versions, the Air model is almost a collection within a collection.

Classic models, meanwhile, are renewed, such as the Classic 781, which sees the addition of a higher midsole of 2mm, available in various colours. www.barleycorn.it/en

ESTABLISHED: 1991 — HISTORY: Originally founded over 20 years ago, Barleycorn was relaunched earlier last year by parent company Fornari Spa – the specialist Italian fashion streetwear and footwear company known for producing Fornarina apparel and footwear.

— SIGNATURE STYLE: Synonymous with high quality and Italian craftsmanship, the brand blends traditional styles with innovative design.

www.mwb-online.co.uk

JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | PRODUCT | 58

WESC £10 01271 865600

EVISU PRICE ON REQUEST 07816 530516

ICON BRAND £8.33 020 3137 7217

headline act with the festival season in full swing, bold wardrobe options such as coloured denims and fluro rain macs sit alongside the classic graphic print tee and playful accessories including earphones and chunky rubber watches.

— TOY WATCH 020 7434 2162 PRICE ON REQUEST

WAXX £8.50 0114 249 3037

QUAY AUSTRALIA £10 0161 272 9381

SCOTCH & SODA PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3137 3901 PENFIELD BELFONT CAPE £32 020 7720 5050 URBANEARS £25 020 3051 5236

Unless stated otherwise all prices are wholesale

LUKE 1977 £14 01869 366580

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JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | JACKET REQUIRED | 60

brick lane highlights as jacket required approaches, with its widest offer of apparel, footwear and accessories to date, mwb takes a look at some of the key new signings and returning favourites set to take their places at london’s old truman brewery on 30-31 july 2014.

—  C HI NT I AND PAR K E R A new label to the show, Chinti and Parker will present its first menswear offer, which is comprehensive despite its infancy. Knitwear sits at the core of the collection, with a variety of cotton, cashmere and wool-blend sweater and cardigan styles. Its shirting line, meanwhile, offers just two essential choices – a relaxed yet slim horizontal striped blue and cream cotton shirt and an indigo chambray version, both of which strike a fine balance between off-duty and semi-formal.

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 L AC O ST E Drawing inspiration from its sporting origins of sailing, tennis and golf, Lacoste brings clean lines and contemporary silhouettes to the forefront of its s/s 15 line. Split into three themes – Urban Sail & Sea, Clean Lines and Crafted Silhouettes – the brand offers a varied selection of footwear models. The Clean Lines category, for example, presents a “court classic”, while a key style in Urban Sail & Sea is the Keellson, which is a lightweight boating shoe with supple burnished leather and pique texturing around the foxing. Finally, a highlight of the Crafted Silhouettes line is the Sherbrooke Brogue – a golf-inspired design, which features suede uppers, leather in-sock and waxed laces.

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 BEN SHERMAN Iconic British label Ben Sherman continues to celebrate its 50-year heritage with its s/s 15 range, showcasing a full lifestyle offering of contemporary menswear.

The button-up shirt is synonymous with the Mod label, and the new season sees this category sit confidently at the collection’s core. Newness comes from prints inspired by the British summer holiday – imagine Brighton rock motifs and illustrations of bunting from a nostalgic British sports day.

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www.mwb-online.co.uk

JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | JACKET REQUIRED | 61

 C L AR K S O R I GI NALS Designed in 1949 by Nathan Clark, the Clarks desert boot has become a signature style throughout the brand’s history. For s/s 15, the desert boot remains, celebrating not only its 65th anniversary since launching but also 65 years of working with English tannery Charles F Stead – a celebration that will see the release of a Made in England edition of the brand’s most iconic style. The Made in England style features the original Charles F Stead Bronto sand suede, distinctive orange stitching and a leather runner board.

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 PO RT U GU E SE F L ANNE L Living up to its name, Portuguese Flannel is expertly crafted in the Northern tip of Portugal in Guimarães, a region renowned for its textile heritage. Using high-quality fabrics and suitable procession techniques, each garment is measured by the ounce of cotton per square yard, unlike the common “thread count” used for tightly woven cotton. Not a brand to follow trends, nor movements, s/s 15 will see a continuation of Portuguese Flannel’s core product; the flannel shirt.

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PO I NT E R

 HAR RY ST EDMAN Returning favourite Harry Stedman prepares to showcase its most varied collection to date at the up-coming edition of Jacket Required. Featuring constructed Japanese wovens in its shirting category through to lightweight outerwear options designed for the unpredictable British weather and soft Italian jerseys for tees, sweatshirts and the new hoody model, the focus is firmly on quality of fabric this season. Key pieces include a smart Ventile unlined mac and the classic Drizzler jacket, as well as a reversible cotton and linen Deck jacket.

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Taking influence from Hungarian-born American designer Eva Zeisel, footwear brand Pointer introduces a series of new models for s/s 15, coupled with abstract patterns and textiles – Mindanao and Woven Diamond – that draw on Zeisel’s industrial design ethos. The new season will also see the label once again work with Sacha Knight of lifestyle label Knight Mills on an exclusive print for summer 2015.

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 SANDQVI ST Building on its continued success, Scandinavian accessory label Sandqvist introduces a new premium offer to its core collection of bags, leather goods and small accessories. The first new addition, Grand Canvas (pictured), showcases business bags with a touch of casual, in a well-defined mix of heavy cotton canvas and vegetable tanned leather. The Premium Leather line, meanwhile, is a brand new series featuring minimalistic yet luxe bags and a wallet model in the highest-quality leather.

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www.mwb-online.co.uk

JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | JACKET REQUIRED | 62

 HANC O C K VU LC ANI SE D ART I C LE S Another first-timer at the s/s 15 edition of Jacket Required, luxury outerwear specialist Hancock brings British heritage to the fore with its collection of handmade, rubber-bonded raincoats. Not one for the colour shy, teal, orange and yellow add newness to the summer offering, while navy, ink, taupe and black add to the collection’s commerciality. This season sees Hancock continue its partnership with Liberty Art Fabrics, with five prints chosen from the Liberty archive reworked with colour, scale and pattern repeat – all with the inclusion of the brand’s HVA logo.

—  LI GHT NI NG BOLT  DR M ART E NS British label Dr Martens will showcase its exclusive Made in England range at Jacket Required this season. Created at the Cobbs Lane Factory in Wollaston, the brand cleverly mixes tradition with the edge Dr Martens is renowned for with its new Steed style – seen here on street-style favourite and brand ambassador La Touché.

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 C AT HE R I NE DANG

 SPI EWAK GO LDE N F LE E C E Returning to Jacket Required once more, American outerwear company Spiewak continues to evolve its Spiewak Golden Fleece collection for men. Made entirely in New York, the sub-division of Spiewak incorporates reinterpretations of iconic styles, including the Waxed M-43 Field Jacket, Reflective Fishtail Parka and Waxed Deck Jacket. A reflective camouflage print is placed on certain styles that can only be seen properly when bright light hits the pattern.

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Australian-born designer Catherine Dang makes her debut at this season’s Jacket Required, showcasing her eponymous label, comprising premium leather bags and accessories. Established earlier this year, Dang wanted to create a brand that “produced quality handmade accessories, from conception through to production, in one studio, with particular consideration for provenance of materials, quality of product and utility of design.” With wholesale prices ranging from £52 for small leather goods to £187 for bags, the price tag certainly reflects the quality of product and, with Dang looking to secure select UK stockists, this could certainly be a label to watch.

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The new season marks a maturation of the Lightning Bolt collection, where branding and design have evolved to be clean and bold through careful material selection, detail, stitch and trim. Detailing includes waterproofing, technical closures and industrial-built seams with clean interior finishing. Highlights of the line include a board-short offering updated with a diverse array of functional fabrics, water shed pockets and adjustable technical closures.

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PALLADIUM BOOTS ENGINEERED FOR CIT Y TERRAIN

SHOWING AT JACKET REQUIRED STAND 90

www.mwb-online.co.uk

JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | REVIEW | 64

 DU C HAM P

From catwalks through presentations to the finely tuned static exhibition of london collections: men, mwb was on hand to spot the emerging trends for the new season. Here are five shows that caught the team’s eye across the three-day event.

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london collections: men

The second day of the London event saw Duchamp present its latest tailored offer, in line with its 25th anniversary celebrations. A new chapter in the British brand’s story sees Gianni Colarossi as newly appointed creative director.

Colarossi’s debut focused on three distinctive stories – Elegant English Gentry, Contemporary Riviera and Summer Eveningwear. Elegant English gentry saw single-breasted peak lapel suits in Italian lightweight wool appear in muted tones of blue and grey. Contemporary Riviera presented unstructured seersucker notch lapel blazers and double-breasted jackets. Finally, Summer Eveningwear included printed silk shirts and jackets in paisley and diamond spots.

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 ALE XANDE R M C QU E E N A key name in the s/s 15 line-up, Alexander McQueen returned to London Collections: Men with a collection dominated by graphic prints.

An abstracted kabuki pattern to be precise, which is used all-over as an asymmetrical placement or stripped back to just a single block of colour. Silhouettes, meanwhile, were oversized or elongated, while trousers were cut wide and loose, or drop-crotched and skinny. Fabrics included cotton poplin, silk jacquards, leather bonded vinyl and jet bugle beading, while colours were a mix of white, black, brick red, Matisse blue, beige and mustard. Finishing off the outfits were a series of oversized sneakers and pointy shoes with an exaggerated wedge in solid colour or with the abstracted kabuki motif.

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JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | REVIEW | 65

 YM C British label YMC combined 60s surf with 90s minimalism to give its s/s 15 collection a loose, relaxed silhouette, while a melting pot of bold prints were inspired by 20s silk pyjamas and traditional feed sacks brought back from the 40s sitting comfortably next to stripes and checks.

Uniform khaki and navy were lifted by primary reds, royals and a pink dust, featured in a series of fabrics including PU-coated linen, perforated cotton and nylon. Principal outerwear pieces included the see-through rubber flashers’ mac, the check line drawstring blazer and embroidered dot field jacket.

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 MAHAR ISHI

 O LI VE R SPE NC E R

Making its debut at London Collections: Men this season, Maharishi travelled to the Middle East for inspiration, retracing the footsteps of Italian artist Alighiero Boetti. In 1967, Boetti became the first artist to take military disruptive patterned cloth and present it in a gallery context. This manner of recycling was key to Maharishi’s s/s 15 offering, with vintage Italian telo Mimetico military jumpsuits upcycled and transformed into long fitted pants and Vietnam War era Tour Jackets, drawing on the parallels between the historical invasion of Vietnam and that of Afghanistan today. Artwork based on traditional Afghan handweaving, meanwhile, could be seen on lightweight cotton/linen and pashmina shawls, T-shirts and hooded sweats.

—

Returning to the Old Sorting Office, Oliver Spencer’s show was once again packed to the rafters with fashion editors, bloggers and faces including David Gandy and model-of-the-moment Oliver Cheshire sitting front row. With music from Rhythms of the City, Oliver Spencer presented a range inspired by Mexican architect Luis Barragan. Key pieces included the Buffalo jacket in suede and cotton, tote bags in suede, the Barragan shirt with exaggerated length and the introduction of a constructed jacket. New shirt shapes were added elsewhere in the collection, with loose and relaxed fits, dropped necklines referencing an artist’s smock and acknowledgement of a bohemian feel to the range.

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INTRODUCING THE NEW SPRING/SUMMER 2015 RANGE AVAILABLE NOW

—

SALES ENQUIRIES : JUST CONSULTANCIES TEL : 0207 739 7620 | ROMY@JUSTCONSULTANCIES.CO.UK

MI-PAC.COM

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JULY 2014 | DENIM & STREET | DL1961 | 67

dl1961 giving jeans tHe XFit Factor

new York premium denim brand dl1961 has made big inroads into the women’s jeans market with its innovative four-way stretch XFit lycra denim, with stores such as Harrods, Harvey nichols, Fenwick and trilogy all buying into it. now it’s the men’s turn, as tom bottomley discovers.

—

dl1961 launched its men’s collection in 2011.

However, it hasn’t been given a push in the uk until now. the brand had a cult following with women (originally launched in 2008) because of its jeans with excellent shape retention, comfort and fit, so it was only a question of time before men were targeted, too.

The company founders and creative directors are two sisters – Sarah and Zahra Ahmed – based in New York. But are the men’s jeans all about the XFit, too? “Absolutely,” says Sarah. “It is the DLX that gives the denim that super-soft feel. However, we did play with the washes and fabrication to make sure that the denim looks masculine, as well as feeling incredibly comfortable. So, essentially, you can get the popular selvedge look without putting in the time, and dealing with the chaffing, associated with actual selvage denim. Who doesn’t want that?”

In terms of the range of fits, Sarah and Zahra have made the conscious decision to keep it edited. They say they have perfected the fit in each category, be it slim, skinny, relaxed and so on.

“We guarantee that once you identify what works for your body, whatever wash or fabric you choose in it, it will fit exactly the same,” says Sarah. “We

wanted to create denim that is more of a utility and enables you to live in it 24/7, as opposed to creating the one-off fashion pieces you will only wear once.

“This allowed us to transition easily into the men’s market, because men are all about the technology, comfort and having garments that can go easily from day to night,” she continues. “We also treat our denim line with a great product that makes it odourless. That will definitely appeal to men.”

Sarah says that another factor that attributed to the brand’s successful launch in their home market was that, compared to women, men are very loyal with their fashion choices. “Once the men tried out our jeans and recognised the difference that DL1961 provided, they came back for more. This has organically grown the business.

Whether you’re a 20-something tech guru who skateboards to and from work, or a 40-plus entrepreneur going from the plane to the boardroom in denim and a smart blazer – we have something for you.”

As opposed to the much wider women’s range, the men’s collection has indeed been kept very tight, in keeping with their mission to create an edited and easy to navigate line. There are five core fits in three fabrications (DLX, DLX Hybrid

and XTwill) and various washes in each. DLX is the brand’s signature fabric that is a cotton and Lycra blend with maximum retention, and is a heavier weight. “DLX is used when we want to achieve the darkest and cleanest washes,” says Ahmed. DLX Hybrid is a lighter-weight denim that has a higher cotton content as compared to DLX. That’s used when they want to achieve more depth in washes. “We produce most of our vintage washes in this fabrication.” XTwill is a new fabric development that has all the benefits of the denim (as in four-way stretch, 360-degree movement, anti-bacterial and odourless) but in a peached twill fabrication.

A core denim jacket has also been added ahead of a/w for men. But Ahmed stresses it is all about keeping the offer simple. “Our venture into the UK is the same as our venture anywhere else in the world – a combination of strong branding, excellent product and a unique selling proposition. We believe that the customer will respond well to all these elements.” UK sales are handled by Palladio Associates, and price points for the jeans start at £180. There’s certainly plenty of men who can stretch to that if they think they’re getting something a bit special. Time will tell if the XFit has the X Factor.

NORTHERN SOUL MWB BRINGS TOGETHER THE BEST CONTEMPORARY PRODUCT THE NEW SEASON HAS TO OFFER, ACROSS DIRECTIONAL, DENIM AND STREETWEAR. —

BOXFRESH TOP £34 020 8297 4635 SUPERDRY JOGGING BOTTOMS £20.83 01242 578376 SURF LIQUOR TEE £12.60 07971 360690 PALLADIUM SHOES £24 07585 300402 ALL JEWELLERY MODEL’S OWN —

SOULLAND TOP £88 0045 23454750 BOXFRESH JOGGING BOTTOMS £28 020 8297 4635 —

GUIDE SHIRT £20 020 7481 1111 WEEKEND OFFENDER SHORTS £14.81 01332 614755 CASUAL FRIDAY NECK TIE £6 020 3432 6387 —

RAINS DK JACKET £27.50 0161 839 5999 DUCK & COVER JEANS £26 020 8435 1668 OHW? SHOES £52 07813 212416 RAINS DK BUCKET BAG £18.50 0161 839 5999 —

SCHOTT JACKET £101.15 07957 247411 MONTA HERITAGE TROUSERS £90 0031 652593284 MONTA HERITAGE T-SHIRT £25 0031 652593284 OHW? SHOES £52 07813 212416 —

SCHOTT JACKET £29.75 07957 247411 ALPINESTARS SHORTS £18 0039 04235286 KNOWN TEE £11.50 07877 430811 —

AIGLE JACKET £68 01608 813860 SOULLAND BOTTOMS £96 0045 23454750 VOLCOM TEE £16 020 7729 2744 SAUCONY TRAINERS £27.30 IAN.PATTISON@SAUCONY.COM —

ORIGINAL PENGUIN JACKET £43 020 7291 7632 WEEKEND OFFENDER SHIRT £22.22 01332 614755 VOLCOM SHORTS £20 020 7729 2744 —

BERONTI JACKET £65 020 3432 6387 CASUAL FRIDAY JEANS PRICE ON REQUEST 020 3432 6387 BRUTUS TRIM SHIRT £21.50 020 7224 4031 ANTHONY MILES SHOES £43.90 WWW.ANTHONY-MILES.CO.UK HAPPY SOCKS RRP £8 020 3051 5236 —

BRUTUS TRIM SHIRT £21.50 020 7224 4031 —

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FARAH 1920 TOP £16 07879 119344 6TH SENSE TROUSERS £11.96 020 3432 6387 —

HENTSCH MAN SHIRT £110 020 3411 7341 GABICCI SHORTS £22 01442 233700 LAST BUT WON JUMPER £23.50 020 7095 1145 AIGLE BOAT SHOES £47.70 01608 813860 —

CROJACK JACKET £45 01902 711823 SOULLAND TROUSERS £96 0045 23454750 CASUAL FRIDAY SHIRT £16.70 020 3432 6387 SAUCONY TRAINERS £27.30 IAN.PATTISON@SAUCONY.COM CONVERSE BAG PRICE ON REQUEST 020 8731 3500 —

PHOTOGRAPHS: CHRIS HARVEY WWW.CHRISHARVEYPHOTO.COM MODEL: TOM FOLLOWS @ NEMESIS MODEL AGENCY WWW.NEMESISAGENCY.CO.UK MAKE-UP: FATEMA BANGEE FREELANCEBYFATEMA@GMAIL.COM STYLIST: VICTORIA JACKSON STYLING ASSISTANTS: REBECCA JACKSON, MICHAEL PODGER

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JULY 2014 | PEOPLE | 84

CoLLeCTIve The people, the places, the products.

LiTTLE bLaCk book JazzLIve aT The CryPT, sT GILes ChurCh, CamBerWeLL, London se5

simon says When is a toilet not a toilet? This question has been vexing me this week. and oddly it goes to the heart of two of my favourite issues – customer service, and my old bugbear, health and safety. my tale begins in the swanky new John Lewis Home store on Croydon’s Purley Way. Truly, this shop is pearls before swine. i was in there to buy a new washing machine, as my faithful Zanussi had decided to shuffle off its mortal drum. i was seduced by the shiny lines of a bosch, and the helpful sales manager closed the deal. Job done. or so i thought... i’d paid for the installation and removal of the old machine, and left it in the hands of my ruthlessly efficient Polish cleaner to let them in and only to call me if there was a problem. Ever efficient, Derek, from the John Lewis van, called to say they were on their way. so far so good. but then Evalina called to say that the good news was they’d delivered the bosch; bad news was they’d refused to fit it. “something to do with your toilet, mister simon,” she said. almost as soon as i’d put the phone down, JLP customer service called to explain. “We can’t install it in a toilet,” she said. “it’s not a toilet,” i said. “it’s a utility room with a toilet in it.” and so began a long-winded conversation back and forth about what constituted a toilet. “but i have two other toilets in the house that i use more than this one!” i protested. i prevailed, and she said i should call the Croydon store to reschedule delivery. as ever with JLP, the man on the end of the line was super helpful.

Until we went over the toilet issue – again. This time, it was all about health and safety. “What exactly is the risk here?” i asked. “your toilet could flood.” Well, yes it could. but surely that would be my problem? “it would invalidate the warranty.” Whose warranty? yours or mine? i could understand it if JLP were terrified that i’d confuse the washing machine with the toilet and jam my bum in the drum, but flooding? There would need to be a tsunami in there before anything significant happened.

“Would they install it in my kitchen, between a leaking sink and a leaking dishwasher and under a defective boiler that could flood onto it? apparently so. no problems there.

He stood his ground as i argued back and forth, finally offering me some compensation for having to have my own plumber out, but it wouldn’t cover the costs. This entailed a further call to someone much further up the chain. by now i’d taken to Twitter and, goodness me, how speedily the issue was resolved after that. The power of social media. simon Carter is the Ceo of the eponymous brand and retail stores.

—

after launching in 1995, Jazzlive at The Crypt has gone on to play host to an impressive range of musicians from across the world.

Established in Camberwell as the only dedicated music venue in the area at the time, today the night attracts a vast and varied crowd, ranging from local students to young professionals turning out for the fair prices and a shared love of music.

Guests can expect to enjoy drinks, food and live jazz. Previously used by a homeless charity, the venue was transformed into a jazz club after local music enthusiasts suggested the idea to benefit the community. With its gothic architecture and eerie candlelit atmosphere, the night is a perfect alternative to some of London’s more commercial jazz venues. Concerts take place every Friday and often on Thursday and saturday evenings.

— PLan B

Karen ames Head of sales, 1...Like no other

When I was younger, during my teens and 20s, I was a keen tennis player and spent all my free time on court, which I absolutely loved.

— so if i could do it all over again, i would definitely work much harder on developing my game. Who knows, maybe i could have been looking forward to playing at Wimbledon instead of being a spectator. i didn’t turn my back on the sport completely, as i’ve continued to play at club level. i still play regularly a couple of times a week. Fast forward to 2014 and i’d probably have been a coach or in a senior admin role at the LTa, provided it allowed me to still play. i have always liked winning – that’s never gone away.

—

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JULY 2014 | PEOPLE | 85

ToP TWEETs

CLoseT ConfIdenTIaL CharLIe morGan emea marKeTInG manaGer, sPerry ToP-sIder I have long been a fan of arc’tery, the Canadian brand that seemingly made several huge leaps in the evolution of technical outerwear more than a decade ago – leaving everyone in their wake playing catch up. While the designled Valiance collection is great in theory, i have been more than a little preoccupied with the LEaF (Law Enforcement and armed Forces) line since learning of its existence. it’s still made in Canada and tricky to get hold of, but i managed to score a lightweight take on the classic alpha silhouette. That’s definitely a pick.

Going to nepenthes, the new york garment district store stocking all things Engineered and beyond, is always a treat. on my last visit i came away a south 2 West 8 bag, which reminds me of the sort of thing shorty’s put out in the 90s.

In an attempt to steer away from a wallet, I have opted for a combination of a vintage money clip and a Goyard card holder. i had a “faux yard” card holder that had seen better days, so replaced it with a legitimate version while in asia. The money clip came from an antiques market.

The sperry Cvo is a bonafide classic. Paul sperry’s take on the Canvas Vamp oxford feels slightly more refined than some of the other CVos out there, quickly becoming my summer staple. The birch colour sees the most action, but the 75th anniversary “nantucket red” from a few seasons back comes a close second. my thinning mop and quick scan of my Instagram proves I rarely leave the house without a cap, and my Palace x Ebbets Field Flannels cap combines a lot of things i love. Ebbets’ commitment to authenticity seems unparalleled, while Palace feels like a conversation with old friends. another firm favourite is my pair of supreme shorts. While some might dismiss it as “hypewear” or “Ralph for skate kids”, supreme supplies dependable staple pieces, combined with knowing references to some of my favourite things. These shorts incorporate the Us army’s short-lived night Desert camouflage. a winner.

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Timothy Barber @TimTomato Phil Neville. Whispering slightly to himself since 1992 KimKierkegaardashian @KimKierkegaard My look is never complete without indescribable suffering Esquire Magazine @EsquireUK Lou Dalton’s best show to date. Baseball shirts, minimal navy tailoring and bombers worn over blazers #lcm NYT Fashion @NYTFashion “Women have a relationship to purses.

Sneakers are our purses,” Will Welch, the style editor of GQ. Ruffians @ruffians Don't make fun of barbers – they’ll respond with cutting remarks #punoftheday ShortList Magazine @ShortList @alt_J return with a dark new track featuring a @MileyCyrus sample. Yes you read that right Bespoke HQ @Bespoke_HQ We love Florence! Such a beautiful city, ideal for getting lots of inspiration for the new collection! #pittiuomo One Young Gent @OneYoungGent Wearing the same socks as David Gandy today, albeit in different colours. @LondonSockCo are going places! Hear Pharrell is after a pair now!

soCiETy The ParTIes and evenTs from In and around The mensWear IndusTry.

 NICK ASHLEY, CREATIVE DESIGNER OF PRIVATE WHITE V.C, CELEBRATING THE LAUNCH OF NEW PROJECT MANUFACTURING MENSWEAR (MAN/MEN) AT THE BRAND’S LAMBS CONDUIT STREET STORE, WHICH WAS TURNED INTO A POP-UP GALLERY FOR LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN.

 JEREMY HACKETT SPEAKING ABOUT HOW HACKETT BEGAN, DURING REGENT STREET’S RECENT ANNUAL BLOGGING EVENT, REGENTS TWEET, WHICH WELCOMED 102 BLOGGERS FROM COUNTRIES AROUND THE GLOBE INCLUDING SPAIN, FRANCE, RUSSIA AND THE US.

 MODEL LAURA BAILEY AND CHARLES FINCH, CEO OF FINCH & PARTNERS AND CHUCS, AT THE RECENT LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN PARTY TO CELEBRATE THE LAUNCH OF THE NEW CHUCS STORE AND CHUCS BAR & GRILL.

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JULY 2014 | 87

The BoTTomLey LIne

© Paul Mowatt

mWB deputy editor Tom Bottomley – our man on the inside of menswear.

FOR MORE OF TOM’S OPINIONS VISIT MWB-ONLINE.CO.UK

G-sTar GeTs envIronmenTaLLy frIendLy WITh neW CaPsuLe CoLLeCTIon set to launch in stores this autumn, G-star has teamed up with bionic yarn, a company that develops and manufactures premium yarns and fabrics made with fibres derived from recycled plastic bottles, to create a new capsule line called RaW for the oceans. it’s a proper first highperformance thread created from the tonnes of discarded plastic bottles that end up in the sea.

Highly commendable stuff indeed. as the big issue of ocean plastic grows – each year, three times as much rubbish is dumped into the ocean as the weight of fish caught – so does the need for a solution. so G-star has joined forces with its partners (also including Parley for the oceans and The Vortex Project), using ground-breaking technology to not only retrieve plastic from the oceans, but transform it into a new generation of denim. This first collection of the RaW for the oceans initiative has already innovated over 10 tonnes of the problematic ocean plastic. and who should be the curator of the collection and co-designer, who’s also a brand ambassador for bionic yarn? yes, it’s that man Pharrell Williams again. He gets about so much i’m starting to think he’s bionic himself! Good work from G-star though, we have to say.

donrad dunCan has a Brand neW LIne Until recently the designer of ma.sTRUm, and prior to that the man who launched apparel for Victorinox, Donrad Duncan is the creative director behind a brand new line launching for spring/summer 2015 called Engineered for motion, or EFm as it is referred to. it should be something pretty special, as Duncan has once again been able to utilise the amazing massimo osti archive for research into fabrics and so on.

Though the archive’s name will not appear on the new label. says Duncan, “There is a thirst for newness in the market now. Everything feels right about what we are doing with EFm. We are taking a 360 degree approach by looking at menswear

 G-STAR’S PLASTIC-BUSTING RAW FOR THE OCEANS PROJECT

 EFM BY DONRAD DUNCAN

from every angle and elevating the development in design technique.” Well, it certainly sounds impressive. The EFm collection goes beyond outerwear, too, with sweaters, jersey knits, trousers and swimwear.

Working in partnership with Tristate Holdings, which has a strong reputation in the market for producing high-end garments for many of the best global brands, they have created Trinnovation Lab, a state-of-the-art facility in Heife, China, that focuses on garment dying techniques and various fabric content combinations, as well as manufacturing applications that include seam finishing and construction methods. This allows Duncan to go directly to the lab with his ideas so they can develop radically unique things together.

Prices for outerwear will be between £249 and £500, so not too hefty for the work that seems to be involved in it all. sales in the Uk are being handled by index London, which also sells baracuta and spiewak. it seems it’s becoming a one-stop shop for decent outerwear. EFm will be a new addition at the forthcoming Jacket Required on 30-31 July.

BaCK To The fuTure a quick note on my pre-Pitti preparations from

last month. Firstly, my laptop died, then, three days later – two days before i was due to fly to Florence – my samsung Galaxy s3 phone decided to die too. now it took me long enough to embrace a phone that can do a lot more than take and make calls and send and receive texts in the first place. but this left me stumped. i lost three interviews on the phone, having got used to using the digital technology it was so magnificently meant to give me since my old skool dictaphone with micro cassette broke. The o2 shop couldn’t provide me with a replacement phone, so i bought the most basic one they had for a fiver. Then i tried my luck in a pawn shop and amazingly they had an old skool sony dictaphone that took all my old micro cassettes. it cost me a tenner, and put a smile back on my face.

The funny thing was, when my phone died, i had a hectic schedule that day but didn’t have anything to tell the time with. i haven’t worn my watch since the strap broke – just after i got a new battery for it! and now the battery has gone again. i was subsequently walking around for a whole day with a travel alarm clock in my pocket. now that’s proper old skool!

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JULY 2014 | DIRECTORY | 88

dIreCTory BIG sIzes

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JULY 2014 | 90

LasT orders WITh...

BeCKy frenCh mWB’s victoria Jackson caught up with Becky french, designer and founder of fledging British accessory label marwood, at last month’s London Collections: men, to talk about the importance of British manufacturing, turning a one-man band into a successful team and what’s in store for s/s 15.

— D/O/B: 27.04.81 Place of birth: Somerset, England Lives now: Devon and London Twitter: @marwoodlondon Website: www.marwoodlondon.co.uk

What does s/s 15 have in store for marwood in terms of product?

We are showcasing a tight edit of the s/s 15 accessories, and have woven, lace and a new category of printed silks and cottons for neckwear. spring/summer is not a big season for marwood, but we wanted to change this by creating fabrics that worked with the weather and offer realistic options for summer neckwear beyond the tie.

What developments do you have planned moving into the new season?

There has been a lot of work going into the business direction in the last 6-9 months. marwood won a prize in December with the CFE for an investment pitch. it was the result of months of hard work, clarifying the direction we want to go in. This has been tweaked and refined since then and we are about to embark on a focused plan that will include e-commerce expansion, a marwood store and new product categories over the coming months and years. We want to evolve and it feels like the right time to embark on that.

Who are your most important markets, apart from the domestic uK? Japan and the Us are our biggest markets. marwood sells in Us stores including bloomingdales and saks and Japanese stores Tomorrowland and Edifice. For the new season, we have added more exciting stockists to our portfolio such as isetan in Japan, as well as opening Ceremony and bergdorf Goodman in the Us.

how do you find manufacturing in the uK? it’s been a positive experience working closely with our Uk mills and factories. We only work with a handful at the moment and they all encourage our growth by supporting small runs and allowing us to experiment during sampling stage (when time allows). i think to encourage a revival it would take a serious commitment towards educating people about the process behind products alongside training young people to learn new skills and care about the make and finish of products. manufacturing jobs need to become appealing and exciting to get new blood in.

Why do you think British manufacturing is seeing such a revival at the moment? i think consumers want to know where things come from, and they want to back the makers behind the products. i think “made in britain” has been overused somewhat but, for marwood, it is important, as the product categories we make have history in Uk manufacturing and are experts in their field. They stand for traditional, quality manufacturing and this explanation on the products endorses the price we have to charge.

What would you say is the biggest challenge you’ve faced since launching?

Taking it from a one-man band to a small team. i have been lucky to find people who are passionate and share the same work ethic as me, as well as being great people to work alongside. The difficult part is taking marwood from my head and translating those ideas and thoughts to involve others. The general running a business stuff is all new, so therefore a challenge. it’s all about finding the right team.

QuICK-fIre QuesTIons — Favourite film?

Too many. Best Sunday film recently was Point Break with old-school Swayze.

— Biggest vice?

Trying to do too much.

— What piece of advice would you give to your 16-year-old self?

Don’t start your own business. Kidding.

— Three island essentials?

Music, canoe, boyfriend.

—

SPRING

SUMMER

2015

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