VESTIR 78.79
SPECIAL EDITION
VESTIR · Nº 78.79 · SPECIAL EDITION · MODATEX · Centro de Formação Profissional da Indústria Têxtil, Vestuário, Confecção e Lanifícios · 2018 · ControlleD CirCulAtion
VESTIR 78.79
Editorial Sónia Pinto
Since its foundation, Modatex has been more than a simple partner that offers training to companies; we have sought to understand what else was needed at a given moment and context, adapting our training to those needs through the relocation of equipment and resources or the creation of tailor-made courses. The variety of the training offer, with the creation of the initiative “Flexible Routes”, is an example of how we were able to combine two fundamental principles of our mission: being close to companies and being able to employ the trainees. We also talked with several entrepreneurs from the textile and clothing industry to un-
derstand the importance of product development in a context where internationalization has given them new challenges. Their answers helped us to understand what the best way to support them is and they also gave us a good picture of the reality of a sector that did a lot more than surviving – it reinvented and valued itself. In this edition we also discuss the many international projects in which we are involved and which confirm the recognition of our training. This recognition is also visible in the satisfaction of our alumni, the prizes our former students have won and the many opportunities they have had to show their work in Portugal and abroad.
2 Flexible Career Paths 8 The impact of product development on training and vice versa 10 Portuguese Textile and Clothing Industry 13 Joana Queirós represented the national fashion 14 MODATEX is partnering with the EDTEX project 15 Fashion and Performance 16 MODATOP project counts with the collaboration of Modatex 18 Intercolor Meeting · Spring/Summer 2019 20 Intercolor Meeting · Fall/Winter 2019/20 22 I-COM · Modatex was chosen for the first Data Fashion Hackathon 42 ModaLisboa awards Modatex’s former trainees 48 Portugal Fashion International 51 BLOOM · Portugal Fashion SS18 60 Graduate Students in the Fashion Design Course
Centro de Formação Profissional da Indústria Têxtil, Vestuário, Confecção e Lanifícios
Property MODATEX Centro de Formação Profissional da Indústria Têxtil, Vestuário, Confeção e Lanifícios Rua Professor Augusto Nobre, 483 4150-119 Porto www.modatex.pt Register at ERC Register n.º 113412 Editor MODATEX · Centro de Formação Profissional da Indústria Têxtil, Vestuário, Confeção e Lanifícios
Diretor Sónia Pinto
Publication Periodic
Technical Coordination Sónia Pinto, Rosário Araújo, Ricardo Moura and Porto de Ideias
Periodicity Annual
Editorial Board José Manuel Castro, João Costa, José Robalo, Jaime Regojo, Américo Paulino Writing and Publicity Porto de Ideias Graphic Design Ricardo Moura Collaboration ATP, CITEVE, Porto de Ideias, CENIT, Diana Silva, students of Modatex Fashion Design Course and Modatex technicians
Print Run 300 Printing Multitema Comunicação Digital, Lda. Rua do Cerco do Porto, 365 4300-119 Porto Depósito Legal 345913/12
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Flexible Career Paths Modatex’s rapid response to the emerging employment market needs
Š MODATEX
Flexible Career Paths are a tool Modatex has come up with for the rapid response to the needs of the textile and clothing sector in order to equip new human resources with adequate training for a future profession.
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The Portuguese Textile and Clothing Industry has gone through different contexts, from its industrial origins to most recent times. Nowadays, there is a new motto in the Portuguese textile and clothing sector: to be competitive in international markets, the rapid response for placing products on the market (time-to-market), customer service in product innovation and development, an ability to get into new markets, and creative responses to the current and future needs of the consumer market are key factors of a modernized industry, one who is proud to boast to the world that the “made in Portugal� tag is a synonym of a strong image of quality of product and service. There has been a growing increase in exports in recent years and, consequently, an increase in the contribution to the Portuguese commercial balance by more than 1.1 million Euros in 2016, between exports and imports. The Portuguese textile sector has thus emerged in recent years as a fundamental pillar of the Portuguese economy. It now generates over 3,000 new jobs per year nationally. The textile and clothing sector exported more than 5 million Euros in 2016; this is a figure that has been growing since the crisis of 2009 and is equivalent to that of 2001- but with less active employees – and it can be explained by an increase in value added services and international recognition of the Portuguese textile and clothing product. As a business partner for professional training and qualification, Modatex follows the strategic decisions of the Associations that are an integral part of the Protocol, namely the ATP, ANIVEC / APIV and ANIL; on the other hand, it develops a close relationship with the companies that allows them to get to know the short, medium and long term needs of the emerging resources for professional insertion. This allows Modatex to define, in different regions of the country, the needs for job opportunities and thus present to the market a structured training plan that is within the ambitions of young people and adults. This assures that they do their training in professional areas where there is the need, and therefore, an intention of employing new people by companies. The National System of Qualifications, which defines the National Qualifications Framework and the National Qualifications Catalogue, was created under the Decree Law no. 396/2007 of 31st December. The Education and Training system started to be regulated in Portugal by ANQ, now called ANQEP (National Agency for Qualification and Professional Training). The National Qualification Catalogue, nowadays organised by credits, became the basis for qualified training in Portugal. For each area, education and training is decided and job opportunities are looked into under the formative offer of UFCDs (Short-term training units) of 25 and 50 hours. In an initiative to rapidly address the growing needs of the market, those of young people, adults and companies, Modatex develops the Flexible Career Paths programme, which consists of a series of modules, with a variable hourly load, consisting of UFCDs of 25 or 50 hours from the CNQ (National Catalogue of Qualifications). These are formative references within each professional area and the programme is enriched by developing complementary competences in other training areas that add value of competences to trainees.
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Examples of Flexible Career Paths The references of the National Qualification Catalogue provide a comprehensive approach in offering a thorough training offer. An example of this is the training offer reference no. 542108 “Textile Finishing Technician” level 4, in the areas of preparation, dyeing, printing and finishing, showing skills to work in a laboratory and in the production areas. With specific UFCDs in the area of laboratory dyeing, it is possible to come up with a specific Flexible Path Programme to train Laboratory Dyeing Technicians, plus UFCDs in other areas that include organizational and behavioural competencies. Another example for level 2 is the training offer no. 542101 “Industrial Fabric Seamstress”, which involves the technological training in basic training in production and specific training in the production of skirts, sweaters, dresses, trousers and coats. This Flexible Path Programme is product specific but it is possible to come up with UFCDs in other areas that include organizational and behavioural competencies. There are also examples of Flexible Path Programmes based on other components since the National Qualification Catalogue is not a comprehensive account of all professional opportunities available. In these cases, Modatex creatively designs a training offer with a modular structure with macro objectives, having the objectives of the various UFCDs as a starting point, including the UFCDs in its pedagogical development. This is the case of the following Flexible Path Programmes: Foreign Trade Techniques - Textiles and Clothing, Methods and Working Times Applied to the Industrial and Textile Industry, Quality Techniques applied to the Industrial and Textile Industry and many others such as “Metedeiras de Fios” or “Remalhadeiras” (highly specialised jobs within the textile industry that entails the operation and supervision of weaving equipment). Through the Flexible Path Programmes, Modatex has been effectively responding to the emerging needs of the job market, contributing to the qualification of specific work areas of companies. As a result, it is possible to quickly respond to the new employability requirements of the textile and clothing sector due to the expansion of business by the continuous increase in exports since 2009. According to data from business associations within this sector, this expansion should continue in the coming years. Below is a list of the Flexible Path Programmes that Modatex has developed since the beginning of the initiative in 2011: ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ··
Fashion Design Visual Merchandising Fashion Merchandising Design Computing Fashion Marketing Textile Arts Garments’ Transformation and Adaptation Garments’ Manufacture Window Dressing Foreign Trade Techniques textiles and clothing Methods and Working Times applied to the Textile and Clothing Industry Warp weaving machine Sewing Techniques Introduction to Textile Manufacturing and Small Transformations Seamstress / Fashion Designer Multimedia Design Manufacturing of Accessories “Metedeiras de Fios” Weaving Operations Tapestries and Embroidery Techniques Techniques for Fashion Accessories Preparation and Weaving Application of Creative Techniques in Textiles Textile Spinning Weaving Weaving and clothing techniques Marketing Quality Techniques Applied to the Textile and Clothing Sector
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·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ·· ··
Circular Knitting Machines Design Techniques I – Dobby Sewing Machines Dyeing of Textile Materials Industrial Sewing Industrial Sewing for the Automotive Sector Weaving Operator Cutting Planning Dyeing and Finishing Techniques
The following table shows the results of the Flexible Career Paths programme organised by Modatex in Portugal. They were developed in Porto, Delegation of Lisbon, Delegation of Covilhã, Barcelos, Vila das Aves, Pinhel, Lousada and Marco de Canaveses and they were also developed in companies, where Modatex currently runs 50% of the training offer. Flexible Career Paths / Finished actions
2011
2012
2013
2014
2015
2016
TOTAL
Training Sessions
1
9
31
44
49
45
179
Trainees
12
136
521
776
624
591
2,660
Graduates
12
109
420
641
607
490
2,279
3,521
26,962
85,277
182,792
195,393
139,777
633,721
Employed
0
0
247
256
202
249
954
Not employed
0
0
71
28
134
148
381
Other situation
0
0
4
16
2
30
52
Volume (no. of hours * no. of trainees)
NB: there were no records of employability until 2013
Placement data refers to the time at the end of the training session, with an employability rate of about 50%, for data between 2013 and 2106. A study on the employability of Modatex’s graduates in qualifying courses is being developed. From the data known so far, it is estimated that the professional insertion rate is higher than 50% at the end of the training; there are trainees who are professionally placed straight after the end of the training programme. The trainees that fall into this category are those that, having been placed in one company, are able to be later employed by another company. Flexible Career Paths are run in Modatex or in partner companies when the training offer is within an area that the company offers. The training programme is meant for unemployed people, and the equipment is made available by the company, within the “Formar para Empregar” (Train to Employ) model. In all Flexible Path Programme Courses the candidates go through a Process of Diagnosis, Information and Orientation and Referral through the training centre Qualifica. There is a follow-up process of selection of candidates through standard selection criteria within each course. This process guarantees the existence of a group of trainees with the adequate profile, motivation and expectations suitable to the professional area they have been trained for. Modatex’s training offer allows young people and adults to have access to the job market; it also allows companies to have access to qualified resources to perform professional duties.
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The impact of product development on training and vice versa
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Product development in the leverage of international trade of textiles and clothing, from the design of the market-oriented product to the time it is available to the final consumer in the competitive “time-to-market� days is a challenge for the qualification of the new resources for the textile and clothing sector. Modatex has been involved in the market perception process due to its close relationship with companies. Modatex training offer has the aim of looking at the sector both as a whole and considering the different regions of the country, providing the market with vocational training courses in emerging professional opportunities. These opportunities provide a new professional insertion of both youngsters and adults. The professional opportunities in the area of product development are developed in a multidisciplinary way in the several competences: creativity by the Fashion Design, fabric structure by the Technician / Specialist in Textile Design for weaving and by the sketch artist of Dobby and Jacquard, structure of knits by the Textile Specialist Technician for knitwear, creativity in the stamping process by the Technician / Specialist in Textile Design for stamping, base construction of moulds using CAD by the Clothing Modeller and finishing stage by the Technician of textile enrichment. Modatex develops a set of professional opportunities and is responsible for the organization of production systems in the various areas of textile and clothing: Weaving Technician, Spinning Technician, Knitwear Technician and Textile Machinery Technician as well as the Commercial area, Marketing and Fashion, Logistics and Distribution areas and professional opportunities related to production such as Industrial Sewing, Dressmaking, Work Methods and Timings, Quality and as Production operations in spinning, knitwear, dyeing, printing and finishing. In its maximum range of skills in the textile and clothing sector, product development has been covering all professional areas in an interconnected way, which results in the development of broad range skills for professional training as well as the development of higher complexity skills - from materials to products and technologies – that provides a profitable way for the multidisciplinary work of the new resources in the labour market. Modatex has a training offer done through the National Qualifications Catalogue, which entails qualification courses for youngsters and adults with a curricular internship in a company for the development of activities related to the course. It also offers formative opportunities of improvement and reconversion of those currently working on the sector and services to the companies undergoing training in specialty areas or consulting. In addition to the professional training offer, Modatex also tries to develop values such as Recognition, Validation and Certification of Professional Competences in the various professional opportunities of the textile and clothing sector, as well as in interconnected areas.
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Portuguese Textile and Clothing Industry Indicators’ Update ATP
Evolution of the Main Activity Indicators
In the first nine months of 2017, textile exports were more dynamic, having grown by 7%. Exports of clothing increased by 3% and those of home textiles by 1%.
The evolution of activity indexes up to August 2017 shows a growth of 3% in turnover, 4.3% in employment and 2.5% in the production of the Textile Industry. Factory prices of textile products increased by 0.9% by September. Factory prices of textile products increased by 0.9% until September.
Main Clients Jan.-Setp. 2016
Jan.-Sept. 2017
Evol.
Weight
Spain
1.331
1.343
1%
34%
France
468
496
6%
13%
Jan.-Aug. 17/16
Germany
331
347
5%
9%
Volume of Business
3%
United Kingdom
323
317
-2%
8%
Employment
4,3%
USA
196
221
13%
6%
Industrial Production (adjusted to calendar and seasonality)
2,5%
Textile Industry
million euro
Jan.-Set. 17/16
Factory Prices
Spain continues to lead the ranking of the main destinations with a 34% share of the sector’s exports, with a moderate growth of 1%. The second destination is France, with 13% of the total amount of exports. The main non-European destination is the USA, accounting for 6% of exports in this sector.
0,9%
In the Clothing Industry turnover will have increased 6% by September 2017, while employment grew by 2%. Factory prices of garments did not present any growth. Up to August, textile production had a remarkable increase of 9.6%.
Destinations with the highest growth in absolute terms Evol.
Clothing Industry France
Jan.-Sept. 17/16
Volume of Business
6%
Employment
2%
Factory Prices
0% Jan.-Aug. 17/16
Industrial Production (adjusted to calendar and seasonality)
28,4
6%
USA
25,2
13%
Italy
21,7
14%
Germany
16,0
5%
Holland
14,0
10%
(increase in million euro)
9,6%
Up to September, France, the USA and Italy were the destinations that grew the most in absolute terms, registering an increase of 28 million euro, 25 million euro and 22 million euro, respectively.
International Trade At the end of the third quarter of 2017, cumulative exports of textiles and clothing amounted to 3,930 million euro, more than 4% compared to the same period in 2016.
The Most Dynamic Destinations We export mainly clothing for France (63% of the total). Textiles represent 20% and home textiles and other textiles account for 17% of the Portuguese Textile and Clothing Industry’s total exports. However, up to September, the products that registered the greatest absolute growth in exports to this destination were bedding, table, dressing table or kitchen clothing, with an increase of 5.3 million euro (growth rate of 8%), now accounting for 14% of the total of exports.
Textile and Clothing Exports Jan.-Sept. 2016
Jan.-Sept. 2017
Evol.
Textiles (except Home-Textiles)
952
1.017
7%
Clothing
2.310
2.387
3%
Home-Textiles and other textile products
520
525
1%
TOTAL
3.783
3.930
4%
million euro
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Exports To France
Exports to the USA Jan.-Sept. 16
Jan.-Sept. 17
Evol.
Peso
Jan.-Sept. 16
Jan.-Sept. 17
Evol.
Weight
Textiles (except Home-Textiles)
90,5
98,9
9%
20%
Textiles (except Home-Textiles)
49,5
55,7
12%
25%
Clothing
301,0
312,2
4%
63%
Clothing
61,9
72,7
18%
33%
Home-Textiles and other textile products
76,2
84,9
12%
17%
Home-Textiles and other textile products
84,4
92,6
10%
42%
467,6
496,0
6%
100%
Total
195,8
221,0
13%
100%
Total
million euro
million euro
By September 2017, Portugal exported about 93 million euro of home textiles to the USA, which represents 42% of the total exports of this sector to this destination. Bedding, table, dressing table or kitchen clothing accounted for 14% of exports to the US and were the products with the best performance, with an increase of almost 7 million euro (equivalent to a growth rate of 8%).
Exports to France: products with the highest absolute growth Evol. Jan.-Sept. 16/17
%
Peso
6302: Bedding, table, dressing table or kitchen clothing
5,3
8%
14%
6105: Knitted or crocheted Men’s shirts
4,5
46%
3%
6203: Men’s suits, ensembles, jackets, trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts
3,2
12%
6%
6211: Tracksuits, bib and brace overalls, ski suits, swimwear, bikinis, shorts and briefs
2,9
6110: Jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats and similar articles, knitted or crocheted
2,0
in million euro
Exports to the USA: products with the highest absolute growth Evol. Jan.-Sept. 16/17
20%
5%
in million euro
9%
Portugal mainly exports garments (57% of the total) to Italy, and in the period under analysis, exports of these products increased by 29%. Exports to Italy
Textiles (except Home-Textiles)
%
Weight
6302: Bedding, table, dressing table or kitchen clothing
6,8
8%
14%
6204: Ladies’ suits, ensembles, coats, dresses, skirts, trousers, trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts
2,5
46%
3%
6203: Men’s suits, ensembles, jackets, trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts
1,8
12%
6%
6103: Men’s suits, ensembles, jackets, trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts
1,8
20%
3%
5906: Rubber fabrics
1,7
5%
9%
3%
Jan.-Sept. 16
Jan.-Sept. 17
Evol.
Weight
55,6
55,4
0%
31%
Clothing
78,8
101,7
29%
57%
Home-Textiles and other textile products
22,7
21,8
-4%
12%
Textile and Clothing Imports Jan.-Sept. 2016
Jan.-Sept. 2017
Evol.
Total
157,1
178,8
14%
100%
Textiles (except Home-Textiles)
1.289
1.363
6%
Clothing
1.448
1.520
5%
Home-Textiles and other textile products
166
177
7%
TOTAL
2.903
3.060
5%
million euro
Exports of knitted sweaters, pullovers and cardigans to Italy increased 77%, that is, they increased by 9.2 million euro, representing 12% of the total exports of the sector to this country.
million euro
Exports to Italy: products with the highest absolute growth
Imports of textiles and clothing during the nine months of 2017 amounted to 3,060 million euro, or 5% more than in the same period of 2016. Imports of textiles increased by 6%, home textiles and other textile products by about 7% and clothing increased 5%. Spain continues to lead the ranking of the main suppliers, accounting for 37% of total imports of textiles and clothing, having grown by 2%.
Evol. Jan.-Set. 16/17 million euro
%
Weight
6110: Jerseys, pullovers, cardigans, waistcoats and similar articles, knitted or crocheted
9,2
77%
12%
6109: T-shirts, vests and similar articles, knitted or crocheted
3,1
12%
16%
6203: Men’s suits, ensembles, jackets, trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts
3,0
159%
3%
6103: Men’s suits, ensembles, jackets, trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts
2,5
81%
3%
6204: Ladies’ suits, ensembles, coats, dresses, skirts, trousers, trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts
1,4
32%
Main Suppliers
Spain
3%
Jan.-Sept. 2016
Jan.-Sept. 2017
Evol.
Weight
1.118
1.140
2%
37% 11%
Italy
348
347
0%
Germany
202
217
8%
7%
France
211
212
0%
7%
China
166
181
9%
6%
million euro
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The supplier countries with the highest absolute growth were: India (more than 26 million euro), Spain (more than 22 million euro), Germany (more than 15 million euro), China (more than 14 million euro) and Turkey (more than 10 million euro). Suppliers outside the Community increased the value sold to Portugal by 12%.
Portugal imported mostly clothing (73% of total imports) from Spain. Among them, suits, ensembles, dresses, skirts, trousers and shorts were the ones that obtained the highest absolute growth, with an increase of 12 million euro (or 8%), representing 13% of the imports from this country.
Origins with the highest absolute growth
Imports from Spain: products with the highest absolute growth
Evol. India
Evol. Jan.-Sept. 16/17
26,4
million euro
19%
Spain
21,7
2%
Germany
15,2
8%
China
14,4
9%
Turkey
10,1
12%
increase in million euro
More Dynamic Origins Up to September 2017, Portugal has imported 117 million textiles from Germany, which corresponds to 54% of total textiles and clothing imports.
Textiles (except Home-Textiles)
Jan.-Sept. 17
Evol.
Weight
115,1
117,0
2%
54%
Weight
13%
11,8
6105: Knitted or crocheted Men’s shirts
6,8
21%
3%
6206: Ladies’ blouses, shirts and shirt-blouses
5,5
10%
5%
6202: Ladies’ overcoats, capes, cloaks, anoraks and similar items
3,4
12%
3%
5603: Nonwovens, whether or not impregnated, coated, covered or lam-inated
2,7
25%
1%
Imports from India
Imports from Germany Jan.-Seot. 16
%
8%
6204: Ladies’ suits, ensembles, coats, dresses, skirts, trousers, trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts
Textiles (except Home-Textiles)
Jan.-Sept. 16
Jan.-Sept. 17
Evol.
Weight
106,1
131,3
24%
79%
Clothing
22,8
23,4
3%
14%
10,9
11,4
5%
7%
139,7
166,1
19%
100%
Clothing
70,1
81,2
16%
37%
Home-Textiles and other textile products
Home-Textiles and other textile products
16,7
19,0
14%
9%
Total
Total
201,9
million euro 217,1
8%
100%
Portugal imports mainly textile materials from India, accounting for 79% of the total imports and, up to September, had a positive evolution of 24%. Cotton yarn, containing 85% or more by weight of cotton, recorded the highest absolute growth (22.3 million euro, an increase of 30%), accounting for 58% of the total of imports from India.
million euro
However, the products with the highest absolute growth in the period concerned were ladies’ suits, ensembles, trousers, skirts, dresses, bib and brace overalls (39% or more, 2,1 million euro) or men’s products (an increase of 24%, i.e. an additional 2 million euro), followed by yarns of synthetic staple fibers (an increase of 1,9 million euro, equivalent to a further 99%).
Imports from India: products with the highest absolute growth
Imports from Germany: products with the highest absolute growth
Evol. Jan.-Sept. 16/17
Evol. Jan.-Sept. 16/17 million euro
%
Weight
39%
3%
6204: Ladies’ suits, ensembles, coats, dresses, skirts, trousers, trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts
2,1
6203: Men’s suits, ensembles, jackets, trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts
2,0
24%
5%
5509: Yarns of synthetic staple fibers
1,9
99%
2%
6305: Bags of any dimensions, for packaging, of any textile material
1,4
644%
1%
5603: Nonwovens, whether or not impregnated, coated, covered or lami-nated
1,3
15%
4%
million euro
Imports from Spain Jan.-Sept. 16
Jan.-Sept. 17
Evol.
Weight
Textiles (except Home-Textiles)
249,3
245,9
-1%
22%
Clothing
808,1
832,4
3%
73%
Home-Textiles and other textile products
60,5
61,4
1%
5%
Total
1.117,9
1.139,6
2%
100%
%
Weight
5205: Cotton yarn containing> = 85% cotton by weight
22,3
30%
58%
5402: Synthetic filament yarn, including synthetic monofilament of <67 decitex
3,5
82%
5%
6204: Ladies’ suits, ensembles, coats, dresses, skirts, trousers, trousers, bib and brace overalls, breeches and shorts
0,8
25%
3%
6211: Tracksuits, bib and brace overalls, ski suits, swimwear, bikinis, shorts and briefs
0,7
76%
1%
6206: Ladies’ blouses, shirts and shirtblouses
0,7
19%
3%
In the period under review, the trade balance of this sector was 870 million euros, with a coverage rate of 128%. Source: INE /Data treated by ATP (22.11.2017).
million euro
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Joana Queirós represented the national fashion
Joana Queirós, trainee on the Fashion Design course at Modatex Porto, represented Portugal at the event Fashion Technology at the WorldSkills 2017, which took place in Abu Dhabi from the 14th to the 19th of October. The student, who has prepared herself intensely for this championship for months, competed against 29 competitors from all over the world, having been an excellent representative of Modatex’s training offer quality. The Fashion Technology event had the objective of designing and conceiving a dress and had a total duration of 18 hours – spread across four days. It was split into several stages. On the first one (Sketching), Joana Queirós drew coordinates using randomly chosen materials and she took into account the intended audience. Afterwards, a dress selected by the jurors was reproduced on a bust. The stages that followed were the modelling, cutting and confection of the dress drawn during the Sketching stage, respecting some compulsory characteristics. On the last stage of the competition, the competitors were surprised by a mystery box, containing materials selected by the jurors that had to be incorporated into the model thought of by the competitor. This edition of WorldSkills had yet another novelty: on the last day, the competitor and her trainer had to go through a blind demonstration of team skills. Modatex’s trainee, who won the National Job Championship, had already participated in the EuroSkills. In May, the training centre was invited to participate in Taitaja2017, the Finnish edition of the National Job Championship and, once again, it was up to Joana Queirós to represent Modatex. The 21-year-old, who started her course in January 2015, has been preparing for this championship for months, acquiring and reinforcing skills in the areas of Modelling, Confection, Cutting, Moulage and Technical English, for a total of 455 hours.
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Erasmus +
MODATEX is partnering with the EDTEX project
As part of the program ERASMUS +, Modatex submitted an application for the EDTEX Project – International Strategic Partnership in Textile Education, having as its aim the Cooperation for Innovation and the Sharing of Good Practices / Establishment of Strategic Partnerships for Vocational Education and Training. The application was approved in December 2016, which means Modatex belongs to a partner country in the project. The EDTEX consists of a Coordinator and eight partners. The partner countries - Portugal, Poland, Spain and the Czech Republic – were chosen since they share a similar history of the textile and clothing industry. Each country is represented by an Association / Entity of the textile industry and a Teaching Institution and / or a Vocational Training Centre for Textiles and Clothing:
system. As such, the EDTEX project aims at ·· Creating a balance between the needs of the employer and the skills of the workers through educational programmes of secondary schools and vocational training centres. ·· Increasing employment opportunities by promoting the mobility of qualified adults / youngsters. ·· Supporting and promoting the cooperation between the education and the business sectors through the promotion of the textile and clothing industry as an area that offers new challenges and opportunities in the labour market across Europe.
·· A TOK – Project Coordinator (Czech Republic’s Association of Textile, Clothing and Leather Industry); ·· TZU – Textile Testing Institute (Czech Republic); ·· SPST – Textile Secondary School (Liberec – Czech Republic); ·· ATP – Portugal’s Textile and Clothing Association (Portugal) ·· MODATEX – Centre for the Professional Training of the Textile, Apparel, Clothing and Wool Industry (Portugal); ·· PIOT – Federation of Apparels & Textiles Industry Employers (Poland); ·· CKZIU Vocational Training Centre (Sosnowiec Poland): ·· ASECOM – Asociación de Empresas de Confección y Moda de la Comunidad de Madrid (Spain); ·· FUENLLANA – Pedralta’s Cultural Centre (Spain)
In each work meeting, what needs to be carried out by each partner is defined. Four main results need to be achieved throughout the project: ·· Result no. 1: Comparative study of the National Qualification Frameworks of the partner countries, based on the European Qualifications Framework; ·· Result no. 2: Comparative study of the educational / training programmes of the partners (Schools / Training Centres); ·· Result no. 3: Set of four learning units to support the future of mobility between partner schools / centres. The learning units will be developed according to the ECVET’s standards (European Credit System for Vocational Education and Training) ·· Result no. 4: Establishment of an International Multilateral Agreement between project partners to support the strategic partnership of schools / vocational training centres and companies in the textile and clothing industry.
Within the European textile industry, significant differences were identified between the needs of companies and the qualification levels achieved in Vocational Training Centres and Secondary Schools. Moreover, each country has its vocational education and training
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The project started in December 2016, and the first meeting took place in January 2017 in the Czech Republic (Prague).
The project will end in November 2018 and the last meeting, where results will be presented, will take place in Portugal.
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Erasmus +
Fashion and Performance
As part of the ERASMUS + Key Action 2 programme - Cooperation for innovation and exchange of good practices / Strategic Partnerships among educational institutions, Modatex was invited to participate in the FASHION AND PERFORMANCE project. Its application was approved in September 2016. The project is supposed to last 36 months, and has the following aims: ·· To narrow the gap in learning outcomes for disadvantaged students ·· To increase performance levels ·· To promote the learning triangle.
The project started in November 2016. The first meeting was held in London, with the following agenda for the following stages:
The FASHION AND PERFORMANCE project partnership consists of a Coordinator and seven partners, which are: ·· LP Octave Feuillet – Project Coordinator (France Paris) ·· Modatex – Centro de Formação Profissional da Indústria Têxtil, Vestuário, Confecção e Lanifícios (Portugal) ·· Liceo Artistico Enzo Rossi (Italy – Rome) ·· Lycée Turquetil (France – Paris) ·· Ins Anna Gironella de Mundet (Spain – Barcelona) ·· IPSIA Primo Levi (Italy – Parma) ·· OSZ Bekleidung und Mode (Germany – Berlin) ·· The Billericay School (UK – Billericay)
Place
Activity
Date
2
Berlin (Germany)
Presentation of the research and presentation
April 2017
3
Rome (Italy)
Development of the project website and participation in the fash-ion show Cinecittá
November 2017
4
Porto (Portugal)
Mid-project evaluation meeting; printing and confectionery work-shop
March/April 2018
5
Parma (Italy)
Costume orkshop; Visit to the wardrobe of Teatro Regio di Parma
October / November 2018
6
Barcelona (Spain)
Seminar on technical fabrics; Presentation of collections
February / March 2019
The project will end in May 2019 in Paris with the presentation of a final fashion show / artistic performance.
The project aims to foster the relationship between students and teachers during its three years, in order to promote, in a very practical way and as part of the training offer of the different partners, the relationship between fashion and entertainment in its different forms and manifestations: circus, cabaret, cinema, dance, theatre, music hall, the burlesque. This partnership intends to strengthen the relationship between Fashion and Entertainment. Some of the objectives of this partnership are:
DR
·· To explore and understand the symbolic content of Fashion ·· To share the cultural and linguistic content ·· To improved the general perception of the characteristics of clothing for entertainment ·· The possibility of envisioning the area of costumes as a professional option ·· To distinguish between teaching methods in different European settings ·· To Increase the awareness of the need to prepare students for a future job in the European context (and not only the local one)
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Erasmus +
MODATOP project counts with the collaboration of Modatex Objectives: ·· ASECOM Asocación de Empresas de Confección y Moda de la Comunidad de Madrid – Espanha (Project Coordinator) ·· FEI Formacion y Educacion Integral Spain ·· Comunidad de Madrid Direccion General de Enseñanza Secundaria, Formación Profesional y Enseñanza Spain ·· ATP – Portugal’s Textile and Clothing Association Portugal ·· MODATEX Centro de Formação Profissional da Indústria Têxtil, Vestuário, Confecção e LanifíciosPortugal ·· ATOK – Asociace Textilniho Kozedelneho Prumyslu – Czech Republic ·· TZU Textilni zkusebni ustav – Czech Republic ·· CONFORM Consulenza Formazione e Management S.C.A.R.L Italy ·· MADE IN VICENZA Agenzia per il Lavoro e l’Istruzione Italy
Nowadays, the link between vocational education / training systems and the labour market is crucial, given the high unemployment rates, especially amongst young people. A number of EU countries have already implemented measures to carry out practical experiences in companies as part of the vocational training system. Many of these initiatives have a regional scope and are pilot experiments, or are at an early stage of implementation and therefore need adjustment in some aspects. This results in a fragmentation of models, not only in Europe, but also nationally, which makes it more difficult to perform comparative analysis and impact assessment of the different strategies. This diagnosis led four partners from another European innovation transfer project in the textile and fashion sector to prepare the present proposal to benchmark existing resources and build more effective tools that can contribute to the solution of the present si-
DR
Within the ERASMUS + programme, Modatex submitted an application for the MODATOP - Moda Training on Practice project, which is about Cooperation for Innovation and the sharing of Good Practices / Establishment of strategic partnerships for Vocational Education and Training. The application was approved in November 2016, which made Modatex a partner in the project. The MODATOP project partnership consists of a Coordinator and eight partners, who have been chosen because they all share a similar context of the textile and clothing industry. The partner countries are Portugal, Spain, Italy and the Czech Republic. Each country is represented by an Association / Entity representative of the textile industry and a Teaching Institution and / or Vocational Training Centre dedicated to the Textile and Clothing area. As such, the entities that are a part of this project are:
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tuation. The partnership included five other partners, who are working together for the first time. The participating countries are Spain, Italy, Portugal and the Czech Republic. In these countries, the textile industry is an important pillar of their economies. The partnership includes specialists in vocational education and training, members of the sector who represent the textile industry, as well as educational institutions with responsibilities in the regulation and implementation of vocational education and training. MODATOP project will be developed based on the educational and vocational training framework of the participating countries, which includes practical sessions of professional training in companies, with the objective of benchmarking the resources and methods used in vocational training schools and companies in the textile sector that support trainers and tutors’ effort in practical training sessions. Tools (Intellectual Outputs) will be created to complement existing resources for trainers and tutors in the textile and fashion sectors: Recommendation Guidelines for trainers and tutors for the practical component of in-company training (internship); Online recognition tool that recognizes the learning outcomes obtained in practical sessions, in collaboration with vocational training schools / centres. The project plans to directly engage about 150 stakeholders, who will participate in the development of the project’s outputs and will help to promote the results while the project
lasts, with the objective of reaching 2,500 representatives of three main target groups: ·· Trainers and trainees of schools / vocational education and training centres participating in dual certification systems in the textile and fashion sector ·· Companies that operate within the sector that currently receive or are interested in receiving vocational education and training ·· Regulators and institutions responsible for designing and implementing education and vocational training systems that include a practical component in companies.
2nd meeting – May 2017 Portugal (Porto and Famalicão) Partners discussed the conclusions of each country and the aggregated report as well as the result of the Focus Group carried out in each country. These serve as a source of information for the construction of the two products (Intellectual Output) of the MODATOP Project. Partners also planned the activities to be carried out until the date of the following meeting in Italy. These include the design of the technical specifications of the guide and the recognition tool and practical production of the model of the recognition tool by the Italian partners.
Meetings held
3rd meeting – November 2017 Italy (Vicenza) Partners discussed the Guide Design and competency recognition tool of the practical internship training programme in companies, as well as the base model of the recognition tool. Partners defined the activities to be carried out until the following meeting in March 2018, in the Czech Republic. These activities entail the construction of the guide and the tool by each partner in their language and their validation by the partners in the Czech Republic. From April to November 2018, the partners in each country are responsible for the presentation and dissemination of the project, envisaging its practical application. The 4th meeting will be held in Madrid in November 2018. This meeting marks the end of the project, where all partners will present the final results.
Up to this date, three transnational meetings have been held with the following prospective agenda developed by the partners for the 24-month long project: 1st meeting – November 2016 Spain (Madrid) Planning of the project’s activities and definition of the tasks to be developed until May 2017, date of the 2nd meeting in Portugal. Following the suggestion of the Portuguese partners ATP and MODATEX, the construction of the Focus Group model to be applied in each country was defined, as well as the results report model. The collated data from the final results’ report developed by the Portuguese partners is meant to collect data for the construction of the two products (Intellectual Output) of the MODATOP Project.
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Intercolor Meeting Spring/Summer 2019
The Intercolor Spring / Summer 2019 meeting brought together colour specialists from 16 countries from the 24th to the 26th May 2017 in the city of Bangkok. The end result of the work developed over those days is a proposal of a united colour among the countries taking part in Intercolor, taking into account the environments that are transversal to the different realities and markets. A set of colours independent from any market or product, divided by several palettes and their respective themes. It is, therefore, a range of colour with a generic and comprehensive character, which aims to serve as inspiration and guide. The Portuguese proposal for the Spring / Summer 2019 season respects this construction matrix, proposing themes and general pallets which should always be adapted to the product when used by ITV.
Portuguese colour proposal for the Spring/Summer 2019 Season REALITY By mixing the colours pigment and light with the Portuguese identity matrix, and investigating its relationship with traits of our identity, as well as with global artistic expressions, we can conclude that: as pigment, the shades of Blue, Green and Red are very symbolic colours and deeply associated with our cultural, geographic and genetic heritage; as light, they represent the movement of making the intangible tangible. When over exposed to the light, these same colours become colourful whites.
Shades of Blue Taking into account the maritime and terrestrial aspects of the Portuguese territory, the difference between the smallness of the land and the greatness of the sea becomes obvious. Stretching over the ocean and extending itself towards the archipelagos on the Atlantic, the country has the largest maritime
Assertive palette, formed by tones of flesh, soft and silky, but also dry and rough, similar to the skin.
region of the European Union. It is high time to know how to combine the economy with our geography and take advantage of its resources. Greenish and Purple-ish Blues arise from the immensity of the waters. Shades that roam between calm and agitation, sprinkled by a very dark blue. It is a story of aquatic colours written on a Pastel Parchment.
Bibliography: A História de Portugal contada pelos nossos genes_ Jornal Público (22/04/2011): https://www.publico.pt/diversidade/jornal/ /a-historia-de-portugal-contada--pelos-nossos-genes-21878549
Shades of Green
After Glow
More than a third of the Portuguese territory is covered with forests and woods. This is one of the largest and most important natural resources of the country. Its evolution intertwines with that of the nation in its stories and History – in the present and in the future. In the Portuguese imaginary, the colour Green represents the fields and the forests of our territory. A colourful environment made of moss, lichens, ferns and woods. Chameleonic tones ranging from the verdant and lush greens to the dry and wilted shades of green.
2015 was declared the International Year of the Light, one hundred years after the publication of the General Relativity theory, which presented the concept of light in space and time. The revolutionary potential of light technologies is regarded as one of the most promising solutions to the global challenges of sustainable development. Our palette is made up of intense and warm colours that seem to have been taken from a rainbow. We regroup them according to the colour wheel, making the invisible visible.
Over Veil
Shades of Red “Genetic recipe to cook a modern Portuguese person: simmer an ADN “broth” of Celts, Iberians and Lusitanians from the beginning of the Christian era; add some Jewish genes from the Middle East during the Roman Empire. From time to time, throw in some Berber genes. Wait 700 years and mix in a handful of genes from the Arab invaders for five centuries. In the 13th century, increase the temperature and reduce the introduction of Arab genes (do not forget to continue to sprinkle the mixture with more Jewish genes). When you get to the middle of the fifteenth century, lower the heat and add a few spoons of sub-Saharan slave genes to the broth. In the beginning of the sixteenth century, increase the temperature of the Inquisition during two centuries, and continue to add African genes until the end of the 19th century – do not forget to season from time to time with some more Jewish genes (now called “Sephardis”).”
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It is important to recognize that the white light consists of all the colours of the visible spectrum. Through the signals received by the eyes and sent to the optic nerves, the brain forms images and perceives white as a mixture of frequencies that contain very similar energies in each frequency range, i.e., many colours of the light spectrum without any lour being given special prominence. Colour is dimension. It apparently increases or decreases objects and environments. Thus reality transforms itself through the colour Light, reformulating it. The colour white is a simple, harmonious and pacifying colour that represents a beautiful fraternal colour, in which all the others merge. It is, therefore, the background of the palette. This colour becomes fuller by adding pigment taken from the rainbow, unfolding into a veiled reality.
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Shades of Red 18-1635 TPX
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After Glow 14-0852 TPX
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Over Veil 11-4202 TPX
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Align
Blur
Raw
Sign
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Intercolor Meeting Fall/Winter 2019/20
Intercolor is an international non-profit organization created in 1963 and currently counts with the participation of 15 countries: Germany, China, South Korea, Denmark, Spain, USA, Finland, France, Italy, Japan, Portugal, United Kingdom, Switzerland, Thailand and Turkey. The Intercolor meetings, a discussion forum on the topic of colour, are held seasonally (twice a year) and are organized through a rota among the member countries of the group. ANIVEC / APIV is the official representative of Portugal and Modatex is the institution named as executing entity. This means it is responsible for developing the Portuguese proposal and it represents ANIVEC / APIV in these meetings. The national colour proposals are based on the analysis of the Portuguese macroeconomic context as well as on the national values and Portuguese lifestyle. There is a transdisciplinary team coordinated by Isabel Moutinho & Luís Parada for this effect. This edition counts with the collaboration of Fátima Leite (Trend Watcher and Plastic Artist), Nuno Gregório (Fashion Designer), Joana Campos Silva (Marketeer), Miguel C. Tavares (Video Editor) and Ricardo Moura (Graphic Designer). The proposals of colour for the Fall / Winter season 2019/2020 were presented by Isabel Moutinho & Luís Parada in the city of Milan – Italy between the 29th November and the 1st December 2017. This edition’s host was the Color Coloris Association - Italian Color Insight, which received Intercolor members at the premises of the art and design museum La Triennale. Intercolor Encounters took place at the same time as the event Dialogare com il Colore, thus enhancing synergies.
Concept Portuguese proposal for the Fall / Winter 2019/2020 season BEAUTIFUL COLLAPSE The relationship that societies have been establishing with the surrounding environment is justified by the argument – contemporary way of life. Dominated by the logic of globalization, the disintegration of the world seems imminent; and, if on the one hand the global movements and the diversity that comes from them creates contrasts and imbalances, on the other, massification generates normalization. The rise of natural phenomena, unpredictable and sudden attacks, leave an empty space and shapes the resilience of nations. In individual human beings, confrontation with the invisible awakens the instinct for survival and the courage to be bold and take risks. Recycling gardens, ore residue, quarries and refineries are all places where we do not normally go, although we have been responsible for their growth.´ The idea of being dependent on nature to supply us with the materials we need for consumption versus the concern for the planet’s wellbeing is an uncomfortable contradiction. It is very important to think about the ongoing transformation we see happening all around us and to report the impact it has on the natural, urban and social environment. The constant dialogue between fear and seduction will make sustainability soon reach the next level, getting into all aspects of our daily lives. The near future will be deeply intense and filled with emotion and challenges, because the eminent sense of uncertainty worsens the feelings of anger and passion, conflict and amazement. The proposal of an alternative vision about beauty is born out of the conflict between attraction and repulsion, out of the absence of fear to looking at forgotten spaces and finding clarity in the shadows.
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© I-COM · Data Fashion Hackathon
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I-COM
Modatex was chosen for the first Data Fashion Hackathon
Twelve Modatex’s trainees and former trainees participated in the first Data Fashion Hackathon, an initiative in I-COM Global, an international conference on smart data marketing that took place in Porto in April. This contest aimed at promoting the use of information as raw material of creativity in fashion, bridging the conference and the fashion community of the city. Modatex’s trainees and former trainees were challenged to create, in a short space of time, an avantgarde look inspired by the winners of the I-COM’s creativity awards. Sixteen young creators were initially selected and 12 were selected as finalists: Artur Dias, Catarina Magalhães, Filipe Augusto, Inês Esteves, Joana Queirós, Patrícia Augusta, Patrícia Brito, Sara Oliveira, Sérgio Sousa, Stephanie Hawkins, Vânia Moreira and Vera Gomes. All the finalists had to complement their looks with different make-up, hair and accessories. The creations were evaluated by a jury composed of professionals from the fashion industry and were presented during a fashion show that took place during the I-COM Gala Awards Dinner at the Palácio da Bolsa. 23
Artur Dias
Joana Queirรณs
Stephanie Hawkins
Patrícia Brito
© I-COM · Data Fashion Hackathon
Filipe Augusto
PatrĂcia Augusta
Sara Oliveira
Inês Esteves
© I-COM · Data Fashion Hackathon
Sérgio Sousa
Catarina Magalhães
Vera Gomes
Vânia Moreira
© I-COM · Data Fashion Hackathon
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ModaLisboa awards Modatex’s former trainees The theme of the latest edition of Moda Lisboa, “Light”, was an event in which former Modatex’s trainees s aw their talent being recognized. In the platforms LAB or Sangue Novo, the new designers continue to raise awareness of the quality of the Fashion Design course.
The event took place between the 5th and the 8th of October, presenting proposals from national fashion designers for the coming spring-summer. Filipe Augusto and Rita Afonso, former Fashion Design trainees from Modatex Porto were on the spotlight as they received special awards from the New Blood jury and important prizes for those starting a fashion career. Filipe Augusto was chosen to be the Portuguese representative in the next edition of the fashion festival by Branko Popovic, director of FashionClash. The next edition will take place in June in Maastricht, Netherlands. The collection he presented in ModaLisboa was based on the seven skirts of Nazaré and the underlying meaning associated with this. The skirts and the aprons have been deconstructed and transformed into pieces for seven different models, each one telling a different story. The tradition of Nazaré is, in this way, transformed into modern and urban clothing. The crochet represents the nylon of the fishing nets; the connection to this imaginary is also achieved through the use of striped and checkered patterns that, due to the colours used, transport the characters to a universe closer to techno than to folklore.
Rita Afonso, who is a graduate from the Fashion Design course at Modatex Porto, was the winner of The Feeting Room. Her collection was inspired by the tarot card “The Hanged Man” and it will be sold in designer shops in Lisbon and Porto. For this collection, the designer reflected on the excess of stimuli and positivism of the present era and on the way in which the overconfidence of our times annuls the place and the importance of contemplation in our world. The Hanged Man is a collection with male and female coordinates, dominated by the colours white and pink, in which stripes and printed patterns take us back to the tarot cards and the character that sees the world upside down. The platform Sangue Novo also had Ivan Almeida and Carla Campos presenting their collections. Modatex Porto’s former trainee introduced “Hubbub,” a collection inspired by the dissatisfaction and stress caused by the notion of consumerism, in which “incompatible styles are combined, mixed; they use waste and pieces we had forgotten, aiming for repetition patterns in which parts of stories come together and form a coordinate”. Pleats, yarns, asymmetries and graphics blend together through
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computerized modelling technology, using blue, white and orange coordinates with minor details in red. Carla Campos, who graduated from the Fashion Design course at Modatex Lisbon in 2016, presented “Human”, a men’s collection that represents “a perspective on the emotional spectrum of being human”. Influenced by the 1990s essence of the urban tribes’ streetwear / sportswear, it presents extremely important details in the oversized cuts and zips. The colour palette includes black, white, red, blue and gray and the materials refer to the influence of sports and street fashion; cotton jersey, twill, tactel and microfiber are the used shapes. Patrick de Pádua has been a regular presence at ModaLisboa. In this edition, he presented “9490”, a collection created from a childhood memory and a hot dry summer. The Alentejo region of Vila Nova de São Bento was the starting point for coordinates, where the greens stand out in strategically deconstructed silhouettes between the tight and the oversize, as well as overlapping materials (cotton, linen, tarpaulin, wool, piquet), in a strictly streetwear style, contrasted by traditional elements and techniques.
© ModaLisboa
Patrick de Pádua
© ModaLisboa
Filipe Augusto
© ModaLisboa
Rita Afonso
© ModaLisboa
Ivan Almeida
© ModaLisboa
Carla Campos
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Portugal Fashion International
Creations from Modatex’s trainers in fashion capitals
© PortugalFashion
Portugal Fashion continues to take Portuguese fashion to the most important international catwalks and Modatex trainers have once again taken an active role in this initiative.
Katty Xiomara
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In September, Katty Xiomara (former trainee from Citex and Modatex’s trainer) announced her proposals for the Spring / Summer 2018 season at Pier 59 Studios in New York. The designer, who has been extremely successful in the northern-american market, inspired herself in Miami Beach and the art déco revival for creations in sweet and exotic colours, with simple and loose shapes. New York also received the collection that celebrates the 30 years of her career. Another highlight of September was the return of Alexandra Moura to the London Fashion Week and Milano Moda Donna, which featured Pedro Pedro and Carlos Gil. The promotion of the Portuguese fashion in Paris was mainly made through showrooms and fairs. Those who wandered around Rue Turrenne in those days certainly had the opportunity of becoming acquainted with the latest proposals of Modatex’s trainers Susana Bettencourt, Carla Pontes and Luís Buchinho. Hugo Costa (Modatex’s trainer) had been to Paris in June, where he returned for the third time to publicize his work. In the men’s fashion week, the designer presented “Do not Fish My Fish”, a collection that makes us reflect on the importance of social and environmental values in a society increasingly marked by quantity rather than quality, and copy rather than originality.
© PortugalFashion
Alexandra Moura
Carlos Gil
© PortugalFashion
Hugo Costa
Pedro Pedro
Portugal Fashion SS18
Inspirations for the summer with Modatexâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Creativity
Fotografia Ricardo Moura
Several generations of Modatexâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trainees shared the catwalk of the show Portugal Fashion: from the former trainees who are now trainers and share their knowledge with the youngest ones to those who made their first sketches still in Citex and have gained a place of prominence within the national fashion, and the new generation that is now presenting at Bloom.
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In October, in the several places where Portugal Fashion took place, there was a lot of talent ready to be shown. The well-established in their professional lives, the newly graduates and those who are now building a more solid career have presented their proposals for the spring-summer season, in an edition that meant a closer approximation to the industry. After one day in Lisbon, Portugal Fashion set off to Porto for three days. At the Bloom platform, the new generations of creators presented their collection to the city in catwalks where the entry was free. The Tram Museum was the place chosen for a day in which Modatex was the last fashion school to present its collections in the event. Artur Dias and Patrícia Brito, current students on the last year of the Fashion Design course at Modatex Porto, presented the collections created for their end-of-course projects. Through the “Opiar” brand, Artur Dias presented pieces inspired by the post-apocalyptic and retro-futuristic environment of Fallout 4, in coordinates where the colours brown, acid green and floral patterns, alongside elongated silhouettes, created femininity and gave colour to a world which has been reborn after the annihilation caused by a nuclear war. Patrícia Brito chose “Symphonie pour un homme seul” as the theme of her collection; the coordinates are fluid, in which the neutral tones, the prints and the different textures seek to evoke a Brutalist environment, starting from “premises such as the capture and manipulation of sounds of different sources, from man, machinery or other utensils, generating compositions of strong spatiality and textures”. On the same day, Sara Maia, former Citex’s student, presented her collection in a show with her own name. The collection was based on raw, black, beige and gray tones in which strings make the pieces complete, adding colours. The silhouettes are simple, the rigid cuts and the military influence create a contemporary aesthetic and androgenic in coordinates that use details such as climbing nodes, jersey cut outs and nylon transparencies.
Trainers on the catwalk On the second day, at the Alfândega in Porto, Carla Pontes – former Citex’s trainee and Modatex’s trainer – presented “Raw”, a collection with ethnic influences that finds the names for the palette of colours in the diversity of spices, seeds, fruits and vegetables: Lychi, mint, plum and curry are some f the vibrant tones which contrast with neutral tones of ginger, walnut or quinoa. Each piece can be used in different ways, allowing greater versatility and originality. A collection that pretends to be timeless, and in which volumes, colours and details of bars embroidered on linens are explored; rough and graphic cotton knits are used. Susana Bettencourt, who is also a trainer at Modatex, presented “Creative Resistance”, a collection that is clearly inspired by current events and rekindled by movements that fight for women’s rights and gender equality. The creator honoured Amelia Earhart, the first female pilot to do a transatlantic flight, who was also a member of the Suffragettes. The colours used in the collection and the references to the 70’s aviation uniforms refer to the National Women’s Party’s posters. “Don’t Fish my Fish” is the topic of Hugo Costa’s collection spring-summer, Modatex’s trainer who inspired himself in the Moken, a nomadic people occupying the Mergui Archipelago, which is claimed by Burma and Thailand. According to the designer, the name of the collection “is a metaphor that bridges these free people and the modern society, full of capitalist laws that prevail over the social and environmental values”. This is also a declaration of intentions of a brand that “prioritizes quality and not quantity, creativity and not copy, values and not laws”. The last day of the event began with the Katty Xiomara catwalk– Citex’s former trainee and Modatex’s trainer – in the building of the former Municipal Slaughterhouse of Porto. The starting point was a parachute that, led by the Caribbean breeze, landed in the art deco revivalism of Miami Beach in the 1960s. The colours are therefore “swee-
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tened and exotic, building blocks of colour scattered in their different depths”; a palette that includes “water tones and oranges, papaya, melon and raspberry, contoured by the colours black and white as” neutral points of encounter”. The shapes of parachutes are evoked in loose and simple forms and the chosen fabrics (ripstop, crepe, lamé, gingham, tulle and lace) also refer to this lightness. Luís Buchinho, a Citex graduate and current trainer at Modatex, created a collection of sporty and light inspiration, with long and wide prints and silhouettes that allow freedom of movement and comfort. The colour palette is also summery with pastel-green water tones, pink skin and watery hues, with hints of bright, warm colours such as strawberry and coral. The colours black, white and fluorine yellow are present in graphic touches; patterns and graphics with circles, coloured stains and scratched silhouettes resemble decorative patterns from the 60s and 70s. To create his collection, Nuno Baltazar, a former trainee from Citex, recalled the beginning of his professional career and the moment he came across Marguerite Duras’ book “The Lover”. According to the designer, “the main idea is the fragmented memory”. This is, therefore, a very personal collection, in which the silhouette appears from the overlapping of incoherent volumes and pieces, which create unorthodox coordinates. A collection that aims to be dynamic and in which the way the pieces are worn can dictate a sportier or a more formal look. Alexandra Oliveira, a former trainee from Citex, has also shown the proposals from her own brand, Pé de Chumbo, the spring/summer season. Inspired by “women who, even without dancing they transform each gesture into a choreography”, she decided to use “the crude sobriety of colours, transparencies that came from the tangled opacity of the materials, the natural movement of the tissues, the mineral glows that emerge more from the living richness of the soil and plant fibres than from the sterility of crystals”.
© PortugalFashion
Patrícia Brito
© PortugalFashion
Patrícia Brito
© PortugalFashion
Artur Dias
© PortugalFashion
Artur Dias
© PortugalFashion
Carla Pontes
Luís Buchinho
Š PortugalFashion
Katty Xiomara
Susana Bettencourt
© PortugalFashion
Alexandra Oliveira · Pé de Chumbo
Nuno Baltazar
Graduate Students in the Fashion Design Course Final Works ¡ Modatex Porto 2017 Phtographic coordinator: Diana Silva.
IDENTIKIT Catarina Magalhães Model: Maria @ BESTModels Assistants: Sara Magalhães e Luis Costa
SLOW Stephanie Hawkins Model: Morpheus Assistant: JoĂŁo Pedro
WHEN YOU SAY YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE A SWIMMER Sara Oliveira Model: Maria @ BESTModels Assistant: Martha Guerra
FEMME EN BLANC AU JARDIN Joana Queirรณs Model: Maria Joรฃo @ BESTModels Assistente: Luciana Correia
HUMAN BEHAVIOUR Rita Falcao_KETTU Manequins: João Trinta & Ana Dinis @ BESTModels Assistentes: “Marco Matos, Joana Nunes, Uma Riddle Make Up: Rita Sousa Hair: Artur Dias e Filipe Augusto”
HUMAN BEHAVIOUR Rita Falcão_KETTU Models: João Trinta & Ana Dinis @ BESTModels Assistants: Marco Matos, Joana Nunes, Uma Riddle Make Up: Rita Sousa Hair: Artur Dias e Filipe Augusto
HUMAN BEHAVIOUR Rita Falcão_KETTU Models: João Trinta & Ana Dinis @ BESTModels Assistants: Marco Matos, Joana Nunes, Uma Riddle Make Up: Rita Sousa Hair: Artur Dias e Filipe Augusto
LONG LIVE Vera Gomes Model: João Trinta @ BESTModels Assistant: Sérgio Sousa
LONG LIVE Vera Gomes Model: João Trinta @ BESTModels Assistant: Sérgio Sousa
SYMPHONIE POUR UN HOMME SEUL PatrÃcia Brito Manequim: Ana Dinis @ BESTModels Assistant: Nuno Loureiro
SYMPHONIE POUR UN HOMME SEUL PatrÃcia Brito Manequim: Ana Dinis @ BESTModels Assistant: Nuno Loureiro
FALLOUT Artur Dias_OPIAR Model: Maria João @ BESTModels Assistant: João Azeredo e Catarina Moreira
FALLOUT Artur Dias_OPIAR Model: Maria João @ BESTModels Assistant: João Azeredo e Catarina Moreira
INÊS OLIVEIRA
Illustrations by Inês Oliveira MODATEX Former student of textile design