Go Kerala Magazine Dec 2009

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editor’s note

vol 1 Issue 1

On a high note by mohammed shine

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hat really is the high art of travelling? Is it backpacking to some brochure-told destinations? An ideal answer must be no. Almost always the lesser known places provide a greater holiday. So go where the locals go. After all, when you come to Kerala, you should find out what the real Kerala is all about. While cooking up the premiere issue of GK this was our real end in view. This describes our approach to travel as well. Our launching issue brings kerala’s virgin heart lands that will inspire, inform and entertain our readers.

We were quizzed, why a travel magazine for kerala, by many a well-wishers. The query was genuine. There were more than a handful of magazines for a land that takes not more than a day to drive through.

Our answer is our magazine. If you’re picking this magazine up sometime in winter ’09 and make a way to Kerala, it mea ns we’ve succeeded. Have a fabulous travel, a great holiday, a wonderful Xmas.

CHEERS 2010 4 Go Kerala winter ‘09

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mohammed Shine MANAGING EDITOR Binu George CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Saju Thomas MARKETING HEAD Kurien Raju CIRCULATION HEAD Salini Saraswathy CONTENT MIX, ART AND DESIGN the pendrive.in PICTURE DESK Niyas Marikar Praveen Elayi Aji Colonia COPY CHIEF Keralavarma ADMINISTRATIVE OFFICE: NonstopKerala Kannadan Buildings Mattammal, Thevara Kochi-13 www.nonstopkerala.com nonstopkerala@gmail.com General enquiries -09961881930 Printed and Published by Saju Thomas for nonstopkerala Media Group, Kochi. Published from Maya Printers, Earoor, Kochi.

Content

inside

07

When folks living in a place called God's Own Coun try refer to another piece of land as 'Green Pa radise', you know there's something extraordinary about it. And southern tip of the Western Ghats, is proof.

Wayanad - with its mist-clad hills, sprawling spice plantations and evergreen woods - was a rejuvenating experience for us.

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“

I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. e great affair is to move.

- Robert Louis Stevenson

Kerala offers one of the most varied cuisines of any place on the planet. These goodies are best appreciated with noth ing between you and the eating experience. Those unfortunates who have used cutlery all their lives might like to scan the instructions on the gracious art of eating with your fingers.

Here is something worth trying out – wonderful perlspot from kumarakom backwaters.

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An equable climate, a long shoreline with serene beaches, tranquil stretches of emerald backwaters, lush hill stations, exotic wildlife- Kerala possesses a wide range of attractive and titillating havens. This cover story takes you to the very best, yet undefiled destinations.

Culturally, Kerala presents a pageant not found anywhere else in India. Until some years back it was just the Kathakali or theyyam performances. The stage has changed.

Kerala has developed its traditional theatre to the heights many never dreamed off. The local theatre, once filled with soap operas is on the change. Chayamukhi, a state-of-art drama shows us how this happens.

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winter ‘09 Go Kerala 5

Coverstory

rou winter ‘09 Go Kerala 7

Coverstory

nonpareil

statuesque

8 Go Kerala winter ‘09

visuals: niyas marikar

Varkala has one of the most stunning landscapes in the world. And, to see it in winter is to see it in its element - a high rocky cliff ends abruptly and a stretch of clear sand extends down to the sea. The contrast between the cliffs, sand and sea makes Varkala Beach a breath-taking destination.

Eight kilometers north of Varkala is Kappil, an unfrequented beach where locals go, and rightly GK suggests you too.

varkala beach

winter ‘09 Go Kerala 9

Coverstory ention Kerala and people think of paradise. Why is this so? Take a trip to Kappil and you will have your answer. Splendiferous waves from the sea and emblematic backwaters of Kerala in one single frame- No joking. Kappil is a place where the beach and the backwater coalesce. The main road is built between the sandy beach on one side and backwaters on the other side. The view itself is breathtaking with sea on one side and the lake on the other and each competing to pull our eyes towards them.

The waves were prime; the beauty was staggering and the sluggish pace seductive. This is Kappil, the new Varkala, says Kiren S Nair, a home-towner. Working with a multinatiional company in Trivandrum, Kiren S Nair day-trips to Kappil whenever he gets a break.

Standing with hands akimbo, Kiren explained to team GK why Kappil is an emerging hot spot. We sat down by the shore harking on his words.

“Varkala was plenary until a couple of years back.

Now that the beach is crowded with vendors and bums. many prefer other beaches, especially the local crowds.

We don’t want to spoil our vacation with police men patrolling and children playing around. In that case why should one come to a beach? A public park could be an excellent choice… And that is why Kappil became our choice, now it is more than a mere substitution; Kappil beach has proven itself to be a sumptuous prospect”.

Looking around we knew he was speaking the truth. The beach was less crowded but more beautiful.

If one wants to spend a vacation enjoying the beauty of the sea in all its majesty and splendor and relax, this tranquil place is an apt choice. Far from the city of Varkala, here in Kappil there were only a handful of shops where they sell local cigarettes and confectionary. The Kappil Lake, also known as Paravur Lake is a natural backwater by the side of Arabian Sea.

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Boating trip: Visitors to Kappil can enjoy a private boating trip (up to 5 people) on the quiet and peaceful lake in Kappil. The natural scenery takes one’s breath away. The trip is on a traditional fishing boat, navigated by a villager. He also prepares delicious local food for lunch.

Besides that, one gets a glimpse of the very rural side of Kerala. The view of the blue water playing in the chimes of bells of the wind on one side and the never ending spread of the green palm groves and the green veiled hill top on the other side, is sure to thrill the visitors most. The boating trip is conducted by Priyadarshini boat club, affiliated to the government of Kerala.

Dozing over a waterbed of somnolent backwaters under a million green parasols held open by coconut palms, Kappil village is just at the right distance (less than 58 KMs) from Trivandrum city, near enough to enjoy all its urban amenities and far enough to forget its hustle and bustle. Its beautiful beach, water expanses and simple native folk pursuing traditional means of livelihood like coir-making, toddy-tapping, paddlevarkala beach

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Kappil, where the beach and the backwater coalesce

boat fishing, etc., make it an ideal place for environmental and cultural tourism, besides having the widely acknowledged potentials of beach tourism and health tourism. The wholesome and unique atmosphere of the locale is enough to rejuvenate the body, refresh the mind and resuscitate the soul of the visitor. Now it is time to get back to Varkala.

Varkala Varkala, 46 km north of the capital city of Thiruvanantpuram, is famous for its clean, blue and cliff-edged beaches.

The beach extends to half a kilometer, where the waves from the Arabian sea kisses the cliff-face. The two km long cliff extends from the south, Papnasham beach, to the north to the Thiruvambady beach.

The period from December to March, every year is considered as the peak season for tourists in Varkala – monsoon plays a great deal in this, especially in the entire state of Kerala.

Varkala is also famous as the eternal resting place of the towering social reformer Sri Narayana Guru - Sivagiri, a very calm, serene and beautiful place.

Varkala beach is more than just beach

for it carries along a religious as well as medicinal significance.

Holy Dip Varkala is a lot less touristy, at least as far as Western tourists go. It attracts a lot of local people since it is an auspicious religious spot, but the foreigners go for the beach.

Like numerous other pilgrimage destinations in India, this temple too has a legend attached to it. Visit this 12th century temple (it is actually supposed to be much older) and listen to the pious story that also gives the Papnasham beach and even Varkala their name. The spring that originates from the cliff here is supposed to have curative properties (you will know why when you hear the story). On the new moon day, it is better not to visit the beach, if you are not very religious because it is heavily thronged by devotees. A dip here is believed to wash away all the sins of soul and purify it. Many believers go to the place with urns containing the mortal remains and immerse them in the sea as it is considered as the culmination of funeral rites.

Beach bazaars are very common in Varkala from where you can pick up items like trinkets and souvenirs

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Fact file When to Go The season extends from October to March. Though the beach is idyllic, strong undertows preclude serious swimming.

Monsoon is best avoided, as the sea turns quite rough.

How to reach Road: 55 km fromThiruvananthapuram and 35 km from Quilon Train: Almost all trains from Thiruvananthapuram and kochi halt at Varkala.

Air: Nearest airport Thiruvananthapuram

Where to Stay Most of the accommodations is strewn across the higher (helipad) and lower (Papanasam beach) cliff tops. The lower cliff is much less crowded and more peaceful.

The downtown Taj Garden Retreat (Ph: 0470-2603000) is 4-star while the government guesthouse just opposite offers spacious rooms at down-to-earth rates.

For bookings, contact Protocol officer, General Admin Dept, Secretariat, Thiruvananthapuram, Ph: 2327377. winter ‘09 Go Kerala 11

Coverstory

a rock, a bird and

12 Go Kerala winter ‘09

legend

proposed structure of the bird on top of the Jatayu rock. (graphics: R Padmajan

visuals: jatayusculpture.com

the

The Eco-tourism wing of the State Government’s Tourism Development has adopted the sixty acres atop The “Jatayu Rock” in Kollam district for developing the area as a tourist attraction. Once finished, Jatayu sculpture would be the biggest functional sculpture in the Asian continent. It can be termed as the tallest sculpture as well. The proposed sculpture is 60 ft tall, 150 ft broad and 200 ft long. A visitor who enters the sculpture can literally have a Bird’s Eye View of the place. GK finds out more on Jatayu – the rock, the bird and the legend. winter ‘09 Go Kerala 13

Coverstory he sun is bright. My legs are twinging. Just a few steps more, chetta (brot her), we are almost finished, Balu, my local man says with an obliging grin on his face. It is almost three in the evening; my water bottle has already drained out, but not my quest for the brow. Clambering half way up I looked down- something a rock climber never should do.

I have a bird’s eye view of Chadayamangalam village from where I started my trekking. I am on my way to Jatayupara (Jatayu Rock), a huge cluster of rocks seen as a single rock, 1000 ft above sea level covering an area of around 60 acres. Having been told that Jatayupara is an ideal location for trekking and hang-gliding, I backpack myself to size up the rock.

The way up is narrow, rocky and slippery. Never mind, I am on the top of the rock. Gentle breeze blown from the west has a puff of mysterious whiff within. The place where Lord Rama found the dying Jatayu was named as Jatayumangalam, now known as Chadayamangalam, is where I am now. I sit down and begin ink this write up for GK.

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Legend, steeped in distant antiquity, links the rock with the great Indian Epic Ramayana. The myth says, Jatayu is the son of Hindu God Aruna (Charioteer of Sun God). A semi-god who has the form of a vulture, Jatayu tries to rescue Sita from Ravana when Ravana abducted Sita and carried her to his country Sri Lanka on the famed aircraft Pushpaka.

Jatayu, the Great Bird, attacked him mid air and an intense fight ensued at the end of which Ravana managed to cut off Jatayu’s wings. Jatayu is supposed to have fallen on top of this rock. The wounded bird lay there till Sri Rama visited this rock, looking for his wife. Jatayu told Rama what had happened and where Sita had gone.

After giving this vital information to Rama, the bird attained liberation. Local people have established a Rama temple in commem oration of this legend.

The Rock: Jatayupura (Jatayu Rock) is a curiously shaped rock formation along the MC Road in Chadayamangalam village,

14 Go Kerala winter ‘09

The facilities would help the visitors to enjoy the caves and creeks of the rocky environment.

There will be places for rest and kiosks for tea, coffee, snacks etc. A few honey-moon cottages are also being planned.

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The Legend:

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Rajiv Anchal, the sculptor

Kollam, India. Jatayu Para is 30kms away from Kollam town. The ecotourism wing of the State Government’s Tourism Development has adopted the sixty acres atop the Jatayu Rock for developing the area as a tourist attraction.

The facilities would help the visitors to enjoy the caves and creeks of the rocky environment. There would be a winding foot path leading up to the top stretching to several kilometers.

The path will be lit and there will be places for rest, kiosk for tea, coffee and snacks etc. A few honey-moon cottages are also being planned. It is a part of the

legend that the rock suffered a cut from Jatayu’s beak as the Great Bird fell.

Where the beak eventually pierced the rock turned into a pond. This pond never dries, even in midst of summer. There are markings closely believed to be the foot points of Sri Rama. These sights greatly attract spiritual tourists.

The Bird: Right on top the rock the building of a huge functional sculpture of the Great Bird Jatayu is under its way. It is 60 ft tall, 150 ft broad and 200 ft long. This will have three storeys and would among

Jatayu rock

other attractions, house a museum and mini film theatre. The form of the Bird would be lying on its back with a broken wing, raising its head. The visitors who enter the sculpture can literally have a bird’s eye view as the Jatayu’s eyes are planned to be round windows opening to the world.

Once completed, Jatayu sculpture would be the biggest functional sculpture in the Asian continent. It can be termed as the tallest sculpture as well. And what you see and experience is a magical blend of legend, folklore, aesthetics and sculpture; all at their haunting best.

Rajiv Anchal, Sculptor: One of India’s most famed film maker, Rajiv Anchal is the sculptor of Jatayu sculpture. Underlined for his spiritual classic movie Guru, which was India’s official entry for the Academy Award in the foreign film category, Anchal has directed over ten feature films.

An art director-turned-director-turn ed sculptor, Rajiv Anchal has under his belt over a dozen sculptures across the state and abroad. He was the recipient of best director award in the prestigious New York International Independent Film

and Video Festival in 2003 for his English movie, Beyond the Soul.

How to reach: Jatayupara is in Chadayamangalam Gramapanchayath in Kollam district. The place has mythological importance as having connections to the stories in the Hindu epic of Ramayana.

The place is believed to have derived its current name from its old name of Jatayumangalam. It falls on the State Highway between Trivandrum and Kottayam MC Road. It is about 30 km from Kollam, 55 km from Trivandrum. winter ‘09 Go Kerala 15

Coverstory

16 Go Kerala winter ‘09

visuals: k C Bimal

Spread across the beauty of Periyar Tiger Reserve, Gavi is a quiet, beautiful and pristine forest haven. It is at the eastern extreme of the Pathanamthitta District at 3400 ft above Sea level. These evergreen forests are abundant in magnificent wildlife including the tiger, elephants, leopards, bears, Indian gaur, sambar, barking & Mouse deers, lion tailed macaque, other varieties of monkeys, Nilgiri Marten and lot more. GK takes a tour to Gavi to know what it is like. winter ‘09 Go Kerala 17

Coverstory

oing to Gavi has been in the cards from the first time since we thought of a magazine for travel buddies. Stating off from Kumily- a little town that can pass for a picturesque settlement in a romantic fiction, bordering the states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala in southern India- I had more to do, pen the beauty.

Every tripper on his way to Thekkady and Periyar Tiger Reserve has to pass through this little place to reach their end road. I tried hard to place the call of innumerable birds and was on the lookout for large mammals that I may encounter on the way. The trail to Gavi in the Periyar Tiger Reserve was largely made of gravel and sand. It was hard to drive on. The lush green canopy of the Sholas, the sub-tropical forests peculiar to this area, compensated for the agony of this difficult journey. After two hours on the tedious road, I was in Gavi.

Gavi lies adjacent to the western part of the Periyar forests and is a nature’s paradise. This part of the Western Ghats is a haven for rare flora and fauna. There are more than 260 species of birds including the great pied hornbill, wood-

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pecker, and kingfishers. A forest guesthouse is located at a spectacular location overlooking the Gavi lake and the forests.

The ambience inside the eco-friendly cottage was marvelous. As I took a walk around the guesthouse the gentle breeze from the lake, the song of the Malabar Whistling Thrush and a variety of many other species of wildlife gave a great company.

The local tribes are born with a wealth of knowledge about the natural products surrounding them and take great pride in maintaining it at its pristine best. They are always with full of smiles .

It is a refreshing feeling to mingle with the tribes in the tranquility of the forest.

I hopped on to a boat eager to take a look at the serene beauty of the lake. I must warn you though that the conditions here can change dramatically and one need not be surprised if the heavens send sudden showers of thunder and rain. I was keen to go trekking in the forest and the tribes joined as the local guides. I was all eyes and ears, taking care not to miss the slightest movement in the woods. I sighted several exotic species of wild animals and birds throughout my trek. Par-

Picture left: A view of surrounding greenery from gavi. Left bottom: wild musa (locally known as Kattu vazha) from the banks of gavi lake.

ticularly amusing creatures were the Nilgiri langurs that stared at me and jumped from tree to tree showing off their acrobatic skills. I in fact spotted a still amphibian adeptly camouflaged on a tree trunk. Equally astounding was the growth of fungi of all shapes and sizes, all along the trek. I was following my tribal guides for most part of my trip but at one stage, I wandered past him quite by accident. The most sensational part of the trek awaited me soon enough. I held my breath when a leopard walked across and disappeared in to the woods! I was so excited that I did not even attempt to lift my camera and shoot. I missed him.

As I trekked deep into the jungle, I came across many fascinating aspects of nature at its best. A small water stream cascading down the rocks added much charm to the green vegetation. All the while, my eyes kept on praying for the elusive big cat, the tiger. We came across a parade of Indian elephants grazing on the grass.

Our footsteps seemed to disturb them; but they were curious enough to stand

alert and stare at the strange intruders in their territory. Gavi is famous for some of the breathtaking viewpoints.

The valley with its spectacular view of a deep ravine with forests below at Chenthmara Kokkai is a visual treat.

Nilgiri Tahrs can be seen at Kochu Pampa, a short trek from the guesthouse. Among other wildlife that can be spotted are the elephants, the liontailed macaques, barking deer and sambars. For those interested in observing the nocturnal wildlife, night safaris to Kullur, Gavi Pullumedu, Kochu Pampa, Pachakanam provide ample opportunities for wildlife viewing.

Another unique feature of Gavi is camping in the forests. One can pitch a tent in the camping site, which is a rarity in many Indian forests. As the dusk stretches to the silence of the night, one can feel the presence of wildlife in the middle of nowhere, an experience that cannot be explained in words. There are also tree top houses available at Gavi to enjoy the avian life to the fullest. Gavi is surely an unforgettable place.

factfile When to Go February-April, daytime temperatures will be up to 28o C. but it can drop to 20o C at night.

June - August, daytime temperatures rise up to 25o C but can also drop to 10o C by night.

How to reach

By Air: the Kochi Int’l Airport (200kms) and Trivandrum Int’l Airport 250kms)

By Rail: The nearest railway station is at Kottayam (120kms).

By Road : Regular buses are available to Vandiperiyar from Kochi & Thiruvananthapuram.

Where to Stay 'Green Mansions' run by the Kerala Forest Development Corporation Ltd with three rooms is the only lodging facility available.

Food and accomodation is good but one cannot expect' star' facilities in a tiger reserve, as it is here. There is no scope for shopping in a tiger reserve.

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Coverstory

HIDDEN AMONGST

THE WATERS

20 Go Kerala winter ‘09

visuals: nias marikar

If you want to avoid the winter chill and enjoy a tropical winter, head for the Kerala backwaters. Innumerable lagoons, lakes, canals, estuaries, and river deltas make up the 900 km backwater network of Kerala.

Cruise along palm-fringed waterways in a luxurious houseboat. Or, skim past the water lilies, lush paddy fields, coir villages, rustic homes, temples and coconut groves. For any reason, whatever it may, Alleppey or Alappuzha is a must go destination. Here is why GK insists on it.

winter ‘09 Go Kerala 21

Coverstory erala has hundreds of miles of backwaters where the building of levees and canals has reclaimed the land for rice cultivation. The best way to see the backwaters of Kerala is by ‘kettuvallam’, a houseboat made from traditional rice boats and covered with woven mats to resemble the rice barges. And the best place to be is Alleppy.

In this Kerala’s tiny coastal village, strung together by the intricate network of canals and lagoons, the day begins and ends on water. And instead of the MUV’s and SUV’s parked in front of Modern day flats, there’ll be a little boat moored in front of the houses, to far more picturesque effect. The canals are indented at regular intervals by these tiny household jetties, which also serve as the family’s chief water source. As you row past, you always find them there, washing clothes, vessels, fish, rice and babies’ bottoms.

They swim in the water, drink it and gargle into it. The women glide down the steps, bend over and flash their long hair

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over their heads into the water, then gather it up into a topknot, while they slip underwater to bathe.

While the major waterways are served by public ferries, along these narrower, remoter canals you just up and row yourself to work, worship or school.

Man, woman, and child wield an oar fluently. There’s quite a hierarchy of boats, ranging from the one-seater family kocchuvalloms to the 10-seater churlamvalloms with their curlicue bows that can be hired as taxis for family occasions, to the grand chundanvalloms or snake boats used in the famous races. The large public transport barges between villages charge Rs 5-10 while local ferrymen like Antony in Champakulam will row you across to the opposite shore for the princely sum of Re 1. We watch as the students of the St Aloysius High School in Edathua row themselves to school, but that evening we also see a motorised ‘school bus’ launch heave past, jabberingly full.

We are on a country boat we boarded at the Alleppey jetty this morning in our

bid to see something of what life is like in the remotest of these waterbound villages of Kerala. We had originally thought we could get on a cargo barge at Alleppey, only to realise on arrival that water transportation of cargo has long since died here. As rail and road networks increasingly link up Kerala, people and goods are fast abandoning the boats. Well, big waterborne trade might be finished but backwater quotidian life continues pretty much at the same placid pace as eons ago. Men and women dive under for mussels, baskets tied around the waist and not a snorkel in sight. They catch shellfish with a long hoe-like stick with net attached. I see a raft made of banana tree trunks criss-crossed together. Only now, the houses have satellite TV and fridges.

Set bang in the middle of Kerala’s famous Kuttanad rice bowl, its harvest season in Alleppey now. Just beyond the canal banks, the paddy fields stretch endlessly green, lower than sea level and protected by bunds everywhere. I’m half drunk on the view but what leaves me

open-mouthed is the sight of a boat floating by with a dismantled thresher aboard. A villager hails the boat, the machine is assembled, the paddy thresh ed; then boat, thresher and all set sail for the next Muhammad to summon the mountain. And that pace...how on earth to feel road rage when life moves at 20 km an hour, water winks unendingly for miles around, and traffic has to slow down because armies of ducks have paddled into view?

When evening approached we headed for the lake so as to be out of the canals during the night when the fishermen set their fishing nets. Water hyacinths drifted on the glassy water.

Flocks of birds gathered in brush for the night, their songs competing with the music from the Hindu temples. The fiery red balloon sun set, going for its bath they say. When the brilliant yellow, “cleansed” morning sun was well above the horizon we headed back into the canals for another wonderful day in Aleppy.

Top: A father and son shares hearty moments in the paddy field.

Left below: House boats in the Alleppy lake.

Places to see Kuttanad It's called the rice bowl of Kerala because of her wealth of paddy crops and is at the very heart of the backwaters. The scenic countryside of Kuttanad with its shimmering waterways also has a rich crop of Banana, Cassava and Yam. This is perhaps the only region in the world where farming is done 1.5 to 2 mtr below sea level.

Pathiramanal According the mythology, a Young Brahmin dived into the Vembanad lake to perform his evening ablutions and the water made way for land to rise from below, thus creating the enchanting Island of Pathiramanal (sands of midnight). This little island is a favourite haunt of hundreds of rare migratory birds from different parts of the world. This island lies between Thaneermukkom and Kumarakom, and is accessible only by boat.

Alappuzha beach This is one of the most popular picnic spots in Alappuzha. The pier, which extends into the sea here, is over 140 years old.

Fact file When to Go The best time to visit Alleppey is in the months of September, October, November and December. April and May may not be a good option as humidity will be high at this point of time.

How to reach

By Air: The airport nearest to Alleppey is Kochi at a distance of 64 km north. The Trivandrum airport is located 159 km south of Alleppey.

By Road: National Highway 47 goes through Alleppey connecting it with almost all the nearby places in South India.

By Rail: Alleppey is well connected by train to Cochin and Trivandrum. Alleppey railway station is within the city limits.

Where to Stay Marari Beach Homes -www.cghearth.com Pooppally's Heritage Home & Resort www.pooppallys.com - 0477 2762034 Venice Castle Homestay www.venicecastle.com - 0477 2237779 Arakal Heritage- 0478 2865545 Motty's Homestay -www.alleppeybeach.com Mappilassery Mansion- 0477 2704426 www.mappilasserymansion.com. winter ‘09 Go Kerala 23

Coverstory

Home

Visuals: Praveen Elayi

away from home

Kumbalanghi, a lovely backwater village intimately interlocked with vast stretches of water, virgin landscapes, calm backwaters, cool shady coconut fields, and lush green paddy cultivations is thirty minutes drive from kerala’s smartest city kochi. Kumbalanghi has everything that a tourist can wish for. Stepping in for a dinner in Kumbalangi the GK team stepped out storytellers.

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Coverstory ou’ll never be short of distractions in the pulsating metropolis, that is Kochi. But if you’re seeking out its quieter charms, then these off-the-beaten-track spots will show you a different side to the Queen of Arabian Sea. Dinner with a sunset view is not hard to come by in Kochi, but the more unconventional option is dining somewhere in Kumbalangi- the first ecotourism village in India. That is what I am doing right now.

Those who change places change their fate. If this was not the case, I would have been browsing somewhere in the busy streets of Broadway or haplessly roaming around Fort Cochin- something I had done every single time I set my foot in this city.

Kumbalangi, an impressive fishing village that is located near Palluruthy Island in the vicinity of Ernakulam is 25 kilometers from Kochi. Spread over an area of 7 square kilometers Kumbalangi is basically a fishing hamlet. It’s a tiny village located to the western part of the city. Resorts, walkways and other such activities are not permitted this maintains the pristine and fragile environment. It was something new to me. The mangroves around this place are given utmost care. It’s a paradise for anglers as bait fishing is very popular. The only place one can find his boarding is in the home stays that there are plenty.

It provides excellent opportunity for the visitors to get the real feel of being close to the enviable calm and cool lifestyle that prevails in Kumbalangi. The charm and cheer offered by this stunning village will sure rejuvenate your mind and make you refreshed.

Kumbalangi is surrounded by backwaters and its sprawling waterscape is beautifully dotted with Chinese Fishing

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Fact file

When to Go The best time to visit Cochin would be between October to April when hot and dry conditions prevail. The daytime temperatures would be around 32o Celsius and in the night it is around 20o Celsius.

26 Go Kerala winter ‘09

Nets. There is an artist’s village by the name Kalagraamam displaying handicrafts and fishing equipments.

Kumbalangi has lot to offer for the intriguing tourists who are keen to exploit the rustic natural beauty of the place. One can admire various forms of fishing using Chinese nets and ordinary nets, can even participate in the fishing expedition to prove their skills in fishing.

You can also learn some new skills of thatching palm leaves, learn the process involved in toddy tapping, witness husk beating to coir making, have a pleasant stroll along the splendid waterways, can have a voyage in country boats, taste local dishes, can admire boat building process, this and lots more will make your trip to Kumbalangi an unforgettable experience to cherish for a lifetime.

As recognition to its ecological balance and its inimitable natural beauty Kumbalangi was declared as the Integrated Tourism Village by the government of India, this is considered as first of its kind. The visitors can also befriend the fishing community.

The exceptional ambiance of this fishing village will offer a unique experience for all the visitors. Other than fishing there are several prawn and crab breeding farms located on both sides of the road that leads to Kumbalangi. The presence of mangroves makes Kumbalangi a haven for prawns, crabs, oysters and many small fishes. The village is 16 Sq.Km in area and is a hamlet inhabited by coir spinners, toddy tappers, farmers, fishermen and laborers.

Home stay provides the traveller the highs and lows of Kerala at incredibly low prices. One can never stop coming back to this exceptionally brilliant backwater placed itself just at the right spot- half an hour drive from kochi.

How to reach The tourism village is only a 45-minute drive from the Cochin City.

Route: Via Thoppumpady bridge - Palluruthy - Perumpadappu Nearest Railway: Ernakulam South, 12 km Station Nearest Airport: Cochin International Airport, 30 km Nearest Touristattractions: Fort Kochi Heritage zone, Bolgatty palace, Willingdon Island.

Where to Stay There are about 10 Home stays, which offer rooms to visitors. These Homestays are generally within a residence, where two or more rooms with attached baths are set aside for guests. The charge is about Rs 1000, per day, inclusive of breakfast. Lunch and dinner are also provided at an extra charge.

Kumbalangi Integrated Tourism Village project umbalangi Integrated Tourism Village project is a unique initiative to transform the tiny island as a model fishing village and tourism spot.

Here at the Kumbalangi Tourism Village one can fully savour a variety of natural splendours, and paramount to a model tourist village the outstanding ecological balance of the location. The village, the first of its kind in the country is

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located near the port city of Kochi in Ernakulam District. The model village is a veritable treat to its visitors with the famous Chinese fishing nets and many other sights to savour.

As art of the model village project at Kumbalangi, a nearby island near Palluruthy would also have plenty of interesting vistas and activities in the near future.

This coastal hamlet without doubt provides a fascinating glimpse of the simple

and prosperous livelihood of the villagers, and also unravels the age-old, magnificent culture and heritage of the place.

An array of mangroves separate land from water providing a breeding ground for prawns, crabs, oysters and small fishes. The village which is 16 Sq.Km in area is home to fishermen, farmers, labourers, toddy tappers and coir spinners all alike. winter ‘09 Go Kerala 27

Lakshadweep literally means "thousand islands”.

The charm of Lakshadweep islands lies in their remoteness. Far off the beaten track, they attract no hordes of merry makers to its shores. Each island is serenely set in a sea whose waters range from palest aquamarine and turquoise to deepest sapphire and lapis lazuli. This is the best time to visit Lakshadweep, says team GK.

the coral

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Visuals: Praveen Elayi

Coverstory

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Coverstory he word ‘Island’ instantly conjures up images of pristine white sandy beaches, coconut palms, clear waters, tropical greenery, and most importantly – no crowd. Well, at least to me it does. And Lakshadweep was anything but.

One of India's best-kept secrets, the 36 atolls and coral reefs making up the remote Union Territory of Lakshadweep are an extension of the better-known Maldives island group. Only three Lakshadweep islands -Agatti, Kadmat, and Bangaram - are open to foreign tourists, and the Indian government employs a strictly enforced entry-permit system. All the islands are "owned" by the indigenous people, and land is unavailable for purchase by non-natives - even a man marrying a local woman may not buy land here.

Lying 350 km off the Kerala coast, strung in a shimmering strand of jewels, the islands are coral atolls that encircle a fabulous aquamarine lagoon. Ten islands in the archipelago are populated, almost exclusively by Malayalam speaking Sunni Muslims who make their living from fishing and harvesting coconuts. Only Minicoy Island, which is closest to the nearby Maldives, shares aspects of its neighbor's culture, including a Maldivian dialect known as Mahl.

Being Muslim, the islands are officially dry, and alcohol is only available on Bangaram, which is technically uninhabited by locals; avoid carrying any liquor with you. You are strongly advised to bring insect repellent since the mosquitoes become alarmingly active once the sun descends.

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Experienced divers rank the reefs of Lakshadweep among the best diving destinations in Asia, particularly the coral islands of Bangaram, Tinakara, Pirelli 1, and Pirelli 2. Bangaram Island Resort hosts Lacadives, a small dive center that was the first CMAS (an international underwater-sports federation) dive organization in India, with its headquarters on the island of Kadmat. Lacadives offers diving courses, rents out equipment, and conducts two dives a day (9:30 AM and 2:30 PM). If you're not a qualified diver, you can rent a mask and go on one of the resort's snorkeling trips to a nearby wreck where an assortment of marine fauna will have you begging for more. The resort

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can organize big-game fishing with local boats, but anglers should bring their own equipment. A trip to Lakshadweep requires a tourist permit. This can be arranged at the Lakshadweep Tourist Of-

fice in Cochin (Kochi). The only way to visit is to hook up with a package tour group. Tour operators start the first of the trips in October and continue till May. Bangaram is open to both Indian and for-

factfile When to Go The most popular months are from January to the middle of May when the diving and fishing is good but it’s possible to visit any time in the year. Lakshadweep has a tropical climate with temperature ranging from 25° C to 35° C in summer and winters are just marginally cooler.

How to reach

By Air Cochin International Airport links Lakshadweep with the mainland. Onward flights from Cochin are available to most of the airports in India and to selected foreign destinations. Agatti is the only airport in Lakshadweep. Helicopter transfer is available from Agatti to Bangaram Island. The flight from Cochin to Agatti takes approximately one hour thirty minutes. Flights operate six days a week.

By Ship Five passenger ships- MV Kavaratti,MV Tippu Sultan, MV Bharat Seema, MV Amindivi and MV Minicoy operate between Cochin and Lakshadweep. The passage takes between 14 to 20 hours. The ships offer different classes of accommodation; A/C Deluxe Class with two berth cabins, A/C First Class with four berth cabins and Tourist Class with A/C seating.

Where to Stay While availing the various packages offered

by SPORTS, excellent accommodation is provided on the islands for tourists who stay overnight.

eign tourists who have permits. Though Kadmat, Kalpeni, Minicoy and Kavaratti are open to Indian tourists only, movement is restricted to the tourist area.

Make sure your reservation of tour before leaving your station. Carry your special brand cigarettes, cosmetics etc. for use as only ordinary varieties will be available

on the islands. While in the ship, a representative of SPORTS (Society for Promotion of Nature Tourism and Sports) has been specially designated to assist you. winter ‘09 Go Kerala 31

Visuals: Praveen Elayi

Coverstory

Throbbing with the Vedic chants sonorously recited by the Vedic scholars escorting the god, Kalpathy comes alive with the spirit of true devotion and joyous celebration. Vedic ricitals are held in each and evey house throughout the street. Between the kolam clad streets stood us, team GK, to find out what and how life flows here in Kalpathy.

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Coverstory (podikkolam). In special occassions they use coloured Kolams. (makkolam). Agraharams are established by the migrant Brahmins from Thanjavoor.

"Half to Kashy is Kalpathy".Shree Hari a software engineer began to describe about their village. The first thing the Government tackled under the heritage scheme in Kalpathy was the thinnai or seat just outside every front door. This was where householders held court, chatting sideways and across the road to their neighbours. Some houses had broad thinnais and some had narrow ones, some high and some low. The doll-maker’s thinnai had elephant-shaped sides. All that was broken up, in order to preserve our heritage, and uniform thinnais were built, each with an identical kolam slab in front.

Because of the tourism department’s publicity campaigns, Kalpathy’s chariot festival now draws hordes of sightseers, and the department offers a heritage walk, at $100 a head.

Kolam olam is the name given to the art of Rangoli in southern parts of the country, mainly the states of Kerala and Tamil Nadu. The Hindus residing in these parts make use of this art form on a large scale. The female members of the house usually draw Kolam designs in front of their homes, with the help of rice powder. Limestone and red brick powder are also used on special occasions. Kolam is regarded as a sort of painted prayer in South India. The design usually comprises of a symmetric line drawing, which comprises of curved loops, drawn around a crisscross pattern of dots.

Kolam is an invitation for Goddess of Wealth - Lakshmi to the house that has Kolam drawn in the entrance. Usually Symmetric, these Kolams are drawn infront of every household, temples and similar places. Traditionally the front part of the house used to be swept first and then the cow dung ( has antiseptic, provides a literal threshold of protection for the home and also provides contrast with the white powder) mixed with water is splashed across and then cleaned with water before the Kolam is drawn.

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magine a village which welcomes the goddess of wealth everyday by drawing traditional pictures (kolam) on the courtyard. Imagine a village with only one type of people living in harmony along the two sides of a road. That is Agraharam. Kerala's first heritage village is an Agraharam named Kalpathy. It is situated on the Shore of Kalpathy River in Palakkadu district.

It was the first time that i am visiting this traditional Brahmin's settlement. So there was some confusion. Local tea shops are the information centers in these types of rural areas. I carefully listened to an old man while enjoying the hot tea. "There are 18 Agraharams. Among them the biggest is Kalpathy",he pointed out. I strolled towards Kalpathy enjoying the calmness village life.

Agraharam boasts of the nearby near houses of Brahmin’s. Each house is equipped with a small courtyard in between the road and sitout. There the ladies or girls draw the the Kolam daily.The medium will be tiny granules of rice

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Kalpathy Ratholsavam or Kalpathi Ratholsavam is an annual chariot festival held at Sri Visalakshi Sametha Sri Viswanatha Swamy Temple (also known as Kalpathy Temple or Kasi Viswana thaswamy Temple) in the Kalpathi village of Palakkad district in Kerala. The deities of the Kalpathy Viswanatha Swamy Temple are Lord Shiva (Lord Viswanatha) and his consort Visalakshi, another name for Goddess Parvathi. One of the most remarkable festivals of Kerala, this weeklong Palakkad Kalpathy Chariot Festival is celebrated during the month of November, every year. Dedicated to Lord Viswanatha or Lord Shiva, the Kalpathy Car Festival is based on Vedic Tamil

Brahmin culture. Vedic recitals are held daily and cultural programs are held in the evening. The recitals are believed to be over 700 years old. On the last three days, the temple chariots are ceremoniously taken in procession by large numbers of devotees through the streets.

Major attraction of the festival is the three magnificent chariots, decorated with flowers and flags.

On the fifth day night is the Rishabha Vahana procession. The deities from all the temples are taken out in beautifully adorned chariots and after their meeting at western end of new Kalpathy village ground at midnight, they disperse after two hours. The deities of Viswana

thaswamy Temple are taken out and installed in the three cars, one for the main deity Viswanathaswamy and consort Goddess Parvathi; the second for Vi gneshwara and third for Lord Subrahmaniya Swamy.

The deities of Old Kalpathy Temple and Chathapuram Temple are taken in procession on the chariot and procession is made through all villages. By sun set, all the chariots return to the original place.

Abhishekams are then performed to the deities who are decorated again and taken out on procession in floral palanquins during midnight. The palanquins then return to the temple at dawn on the first day of the Tamil month of Karthigai. winter ‘09 Go Kerala 35

Muzhappilangad beach has something unique that adds to its credit; being one among the few largest of Kerala beaches, it is the second largest drive-in beach in the whole of the nation. One can take a stroll along its unending stretch of shore or bring one's family for a pulsating drive in the beach, splashing water all through. Team GK lands at the shore to expore more of the beauty.

Muzhappilangad

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Visuals: Praveen

Coverstory

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Coverstory alm and serene, the place is secluded and remains unexplored. Huge black rocks scattered here protect this long beach from the deep currents, and form a tranquil pool of shallow waters that is a swimmer's paradise. But we are here not to swim nor sunbathe. We are here to drive. Welcome to the second largest drive in beach in India, Muzhippilangad.

Muzhappilangad Beach in North Kerala, near Thalasseri, is one of those strange experiences one comes across when travelling through India. It is a long beach complete with white sand, coconut groves and an inviting ocean.

The Beach is a palm-fringed stretch of sand where in seclusion you will find peace and retreat from daily drudg eries. The surrounding coconut groves strewn all along the beach promises a relaxed stay. The 4.5 Km drive facility provide the beautifully landscape with soft wet sand. Drive in sunset time is unique experience which is thrilling.

Another significant of the beach is its serenity and smooth waves.

Muzhappilangad Beach with its shallow waters makes it ideal for swimmers. The enchanting ambience of the beautiful Muzhappilangad beach invites one to swim, sunbathe, or just laze around. During the day the beach remains quiet and peaceful, and the only people around are local fishermen sorting out their day’s catch in the morning. It is possible to walk from one end of the beach to the other, and see hardly anyone on the way.

But around evening the crowds start to arrive: large families in equally large cars, young men on scooters, husbands giving driving lessons to their nervous wives, young couples who come here to watch Muzhappilangad’s famous sunset (apparently one of the best in India), ice cream vendors, schoolchildren and rickshaw drivers blaring music out of their radios.

Muslim women in black head-totoe burkas and Hindu ladies in colorful saris dip their toes into the water, while their husbands walk in the ocean fully clothed – but nobody swims. Instead, large crowds of people eat ice cream, watch the sunset and drive back and forth on the sand. For a tourist who

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Muzhappilangad Beach in North Kerala, near Thlasse ri, is one of those stra nge experiences one comes across when travelling thro ugh India. a long beach complete with white sand, coconut groves and an inviting ocean. generally comes to a tropical beach to swim, all this can be very puzzling.

It is advised not to swim in the evening. Better make it in the morning.

South of the beach is a private island called Dharmadam Island (Pacha Thuruthu in Malayalam, which translates to Green Island in English). It is possible to walk to the island during low tide. It lies 100 meters from the Muzhappilangad Beach. This island, covered with coconut palms and dense bush is a beautiful sight from the Muzhappi-

langad beach. Permission is required to land on the island as it is privately owned. Another attraction is Muzhappilangadu Thuruthu which is in the middle of Anjarakandy River and is very near to Muzhappilangad beach.

"Kandals" and rare birds are some of the beautiful sites of this "Thuruthu�. Journey round the Thuruthu in boat attracts many tourists.

Due to the lack of general tourist facilities (such as beach restaurants) and the problems regarding sunbathing, few Western tourists end up in Muzhappilangad.

This means that a stay here can be very peaceful. However, the local government has now decided to build a road along the beach. It is hoped that the road will reduce driving on the beach itself, but it is possible that it will also destroy the peaceful atmosphere in the two homestays, as the planned road runs practically through their front gardens.

factfile When to Go The best time to visit Muzhuppilangad beach is at May, because most of the temples here in Kannur have Theyyam performances during this time.

How to reach Muzhapilangad beach is just a kilometre to the west of National Highway 17.

Nearest railway station: Kannur, an important railhead of Southern Railways.

Nearest airport: Kozhikode international airport, about 93 km from Kannur town.

Where to Stay There are two homestays on the beach.

The nearest town to Muzhappilangad Beach is Thalasseri, seven kilometres away.

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Sweet Street

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For the Arabs it was Kalikat, for the Chinese it was Kalifo. English called it Calicut. Locals have always preferred to call it Kozhikode. We, team GK are right in the heart of the third largest city in the state. Rightly placed in the Sweet Meat Street, popularly known as S.M. Street- the busiest shopping spot of Kozhikode we could feel the ambience of malabar as never before.

Visuals: Praveen Elayi

Coverstory

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Coverstory eat was never sold there, nor was butchers allowed.

Yet it came to be known as Sweet Meat Street, the heart of Calicut- better known as SM Street. The trading foreigners equated Calicut halwas – a sweet brown red delicacy to Sweet meat. The name stuck for the next few centuries. Incidentally Halwa must have come from Turkey to India via the silk route. Never mind it is not our point of interest.

What takes us to SM Street is its indelible imprint of Northern Kerala. A walk through the busiest shopping spot of Calicut, SM Street will let you know what typical Mallu life is all about. (Keralites are often called as Mallus in cyberspace) SM street sells anything one wants or anything that man has ever invented (both original and duplicate). The close knitted and well networked but narrow streets and ignorable traffic which is almost nil most of the time has made it the most comfortable one-stop-shopping spot in the city. The cut-throat competition between the shops which are usually found in clusters of similar business, keep the price under control and the selection at its best. It is a bargainer’s paradise.

The sellers on the footpath cater to the demand of cheap products and the well-established and branded outlets cater to the taste of the high-class of the society. Thus you can buy anything from a safety pin to ultramodern laptops at prices your pockets can afford from these streets which has obviously made the street the most preferred one stop shopping spot of the visitors. This resultant huge flow of potential customers has made the street the most sought after venue for traders to base their business in the city.

Kozhikode was the capital of Malabar during the time of Zamorins who where ruling before the British Rule in India. It was trading in spices like black pepper and cardamom with the outside world with the Jews, Arabs, Phoenicians, Chinese from centuries and with the Dutch and Portuguese more than 500 years ago.

Portuguese were the first foreigners to find this land, the gateway to Kerala, famous for spices. This city is famous for receiving Vasco da Gama in 1498. He landed on the remote beach of Kappad which is 18 km away from the Calicut City.

The English word calico, a cotton textile,

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originated from this city's name "Calicut".

Water pipe enthusiasts should look out for the Koyilandy Hookah, made in the nearby town of Koyilandy. Preparation of an average hookah requires up to 1.5 kg

of copper, 1.5 kg of zinc and half kg silver.

It takes a week to prepare a Hookah.Available in different sizes (12 to 24 inches), these Hookah are sold anywhere around rupees 500 to 1500. Spe-

This city is famous for receiving Vasco da Gama in 1498. He landed on the remote beach of Kappad which is 18 km away from the Calicut City. The English word calico, a cotton textile, originated from this city's name "Calicut". cially crafted Hookah come at rupees 15,000. One way to to procure one of these, you could contact the Kozhikode District Handicrafts Artisans Cooperative society. They have several pieces ready and can polish it and give it to you within an hour.

These range from Rs. 1200 to Rs. 2500 depending on the size.

Fact file When to Go Summers in Kozhikode are pleasant with temperature rising up to 33 'C plus. The winters are also pleasant with average temperature being around 23 'C.

How to reach The Airport in Kozhikode, the Karipur International Airport, is at a distance of 23 km from Kozhikode town. Tourist taxi charges about Rs 400 from airport to town. Karipur airport is well connected to many major cities in India and abroad, speciďŹ cally to many gulf countries.

Kozhikode railway station is well connected to all major cities in India. Cities like Trivandrum, Kochi, Chennai, Mangalore, Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore and Kolkata are all can be reached from Kozhikode by rail.

KSRTC buses of Kerala state and Karnataka state connect Kozhikode to many cities in Kerala and the neighboring states. Tourist buses with A/C luxurious facilities are regular from Kozhikode to Chennai, Mangalore, Bangalore and Trivandrum. These buses charge about Rs 3 to Rs 4 per km.

Where to Stay Hiliya Resort www.hiliyaresort.com - 04936 211575 Wayanad Blooms- 09995552299 Annapara Home Stay 0452 2525212 Ente Veedu- 04935 320494 Hill View Home Stay - 04936 217404 Herbal Nest- herbalnestindia.com

previous page: a street vendor oil-fries ready-toeat cashewnuts in SM Street, Calicut.

Images this page: Street Vendors with their commodities in SM Street, Calicut.

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Visuals: Praveen

Coverstory

This fort has an eventful history behind it.In earlier days, the river was considered to be the border of two powerful kingdoms - Kolathunadu and Thulunadu. Now the vast seven acers of land is all mine. Nobody, nothing to distract me from having a breathtaking view of Chandragiri river and the Arabian Sea.

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Evergreen

Chandragiri

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Coverstory he Sun was caressing the western walls of the Chandragiri fort with its reddish rays when I reached. They brought to mind the history of kings, kingdoms and bloodshed wars. I felt some anonymous and crispy impulses inside.

Chandragiri fort is situated in southeast side of Kasargod town, on the bank of Chandragiri river, in north malabar.

This fort had played a vital role in the history of Kasargod. But an enquiry on it made me disappointed."Chandragiri fort?

Where is it? We are from this town itself, but never heard of anything like that...” this was the answer to my query to a copassenger in the bus!

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Welcome to the history Anyways I alighted at a small town Meleparambu, near the fort. Day light was about to get dim. Nobody was along the road and no way-boards were there.

Above all hunger began to rage inside. I haven’t had anything to loosen my appetite for hours, thanks to the four plus hours of bus journey. next time i shall bring with me some snacks. Yet the quest to see the historic beauty gave me energy.

By the time I climbed up to of the fort, following a secluded path from the road below, I was welcomed warmly by the man who keeps the fort. The vast fort, built in the 17th century by Shivappa

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Nayak, the ruler of Kelady Nayaka kingdom. He was a successor of Vijayanagara Empire.

Now it is time for a small 'History Break'. Before the foreign invasions, India was divided into many small kingdoms, each with independent rulers. Chandragiri region fell under Kolathunadu kingdom, which is now in the state of kerala.

The nearby river Chandragiri (also called Payaswini) stood as the boundary of Kolathunadu and Thulunadu (now in Karnataka state). At a point of time the Vijayanagara Empire conquered Thulunadu. After the decline of the latter this region came under the rule of Kelady Nayakas. By 15th century they declared independence from Vijayanagara Empire.

During the reign of Shivappa Nayaka a chain of forts were built- including Chandragiri and Bekkal. This fort is 46 meter above the sea level and occupies an area of about seven acres. The huge bricks give strength to the walls to withstand the ravages of time and rashes of enemies.

On the bank of a River Back to present tense.

After registering my name and whereabouts in the fort keeper’s book, I was al-

lowed to enter the fort. From the main gate one could see the Chandragiri River on its way to be in rendezvous with the Arabian Sea. This bluish river and the greenery of coconut trees gets hold my vision from the south east sides of fort.

The fort’s huge walls, built by the big bricks were above the ground with a ruminative silence. The way to the fort was narrow. This was the path to glory for many a kings, to many a kingdoms. I was walking through the lane that created history. Now i am insdie the inner yard of the fort. The place was vast open. Full of sunlight, plenty of swinging grasses. I took a turn to my left and paddled up to the top. wooowwwwww, a panoramic view of scenery took my breath away;

a small hill with abundance of coconut trees, and the Chandragiri river -from the east side. My camera had no rest. i was clicking at almost everything.

I was at a loss while watching the sunset. I was alone in the vastness of 7 acres to view the enchanting beauty. I wondered why on earth this piece of beauty remained unexploited by the wayfarers roaming around for something novel.

I now had strong reasons to disagree with many friends back home. They tried to dishearten me on hearing my plan to go to Chandragiri. ("Hey, there is nothing to see"). No my friends, there is more than something here. The good

old saying came to my mind, beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder. Like many other forts accross the world this one also had a long tunnel, the one helped many a kings escpae from the clutches of his enemies. Cannons were placed in carefuly carved places along the top of the fort. I returned when the dark began to cover the history.

Getting there: Nearest railway station: Kasaragod, about 4 km away.

Nearest airports: Mangalore in neighbouring State of Karnataka, about 50 km from Kasargod town; Karipur International Airport, Kozhikode , about 200 km.

Something special a) Kasargod is one of the rare districts in India which houses as many as 7 different languages (excluding dialects and tribal languages), with each spoken by a substantial number of people.

Kasaragod had a population of around thirteen lacs. Widely used languages are Malayalam, Tulu, beary bashe, Konkani, Kannada, Marathi and Urdu.

Hindi also spoken here. b) Kasargod district has 11 rivers (out of a total of 44 rivers in Kerala) forts, beaches, hills and backwaters. c) Chandragiri is just 13 kilometers away from international fame Bakel fort. d) Backwater trips on the Chandragiri river at Valiyaparamba are amazing experiences. e) Chandragiri is a vantage point watch the sunset.

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Lifestyle & shopping

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Lifestyle & shopping

the Vedic life

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Santhigiri Santhigiri Ashram is situated on a beautiful hillock, 24 Kms. away from Trivandrum city, capital of Kerala, South India. As the name implies, Santhigiri has developed as a mountain of peace (Santhi = Peace, Giri = Mountain). Also it has become a fountain of love and mercy to all people, irrespective of the differences and discriminations of caste, creed, color, community, culture or country. The proper synthesis of Dharma and Karma is preached and practiced here.

Dharma means a good life performing the duties according to the laws of nature leading to salvation - the ultimate goal of human birth without compromising on virtues, truth, righteousness, mercy and kindness. Karma means good and appro-

Visuals: nias marikar

eople all over the world folk to India in search of the roots of Ayurveda, the wonderful science, originated and widely practiced throughout India from time immemorial. By the time the world realized the fact this is a gift of God to mankind, a system without side effect.

A system which can cure from root cause, and a system which has treatments for all diseases, the precious knowledge acquired by our ancient Rishies, through their spiritual pursuit, and passed on to generations through Guru Disciple order got neglected with the incursion of modern civilization at the land this wonderful science originated. There are extensive references on Ayurveda in Ramayana and Mahabharatha. Ravana, the richest emperor of Srilanka was a scholar on Ayurveda and Siddha Types of medicines and treatments, in Thretha Yuga, which is more than sixteen hundred thousand years back.

Ayurveda not only is a system of treatment, it is the Science of life which teaches the method to lead a successful and meaningful life, with strong and healthy body and mind. The approach in this system is quite different from other systems. The people are broadly categorized by three humors- called Vatha, Pitha and Kabha. The medicines, food and routine are prescribed on the basis of these categories.

Treatments in Ayurveda are not for the symptom of the affected part of the body, it is for the root cause of the same.

priate action fulfilling the assigned duties strictly obeying the words of Guru. This is the uniqueness of Santhigiri Ashram.

Santhigiri advocates a way of life with definite goal. It establishes a tradition and a culture to be handed down to the next generation and the generations to come.

Santhigiri Ayurveda and Siddha Vaidyasala The sanyasins -renouncers- and sages, carry out their activities in this World by using their bodies as the instrument. A healthy body makes a person capable of effectively practicing his Dharma -Divine Law- and karma -positive actions. The Ayurvedic and Siddha systems originated with this objective of providing good health to the sanyasins, but later those systems became a blessing for the whole World.

At Santhigiri, genuine Ayurvedic and Siddha medicines are manufactured by blending our ancient tradition with modern methods. The production and distribution of these medicines, all involve a divine invocation. This involvement of Divine Grace contributes to the cure of diseases, as evident from the experiences of several people. The Santhigiri Ayu rveda and Siddha Vaidyasala, produces more than 600 medicines, some of them

parnasala at santhigiri

in accordance with the directions of the saints and sages, who have unveiled the mystery of nature, to bring out a method of curing the sick.

The Ayurvedic and Siddha medicines manufactured in the Ashram are rated too high in the country. Ashram has developed medicines for the total cure of cancer, arthritis, sinusitis and other ailments. There is an Ayurvedic hospital in the Ashram, and one at Olassery, Palakkad District.

Santhigiri Hospital Complex The services of all the major systems of medicine in the World -Ayurveda-, Siddha, Homeopathy, Allopathy- are available at the Santhigiri Hospital Complex.

In the treatment of diseases they have evolved a novel approach called "Integrated System of Treatment" combining all systems of medicines mentioned above.

Treatment is provided by doctors, who are efficient in their respective areas of specialties. Effective and genuine medicines and preparations- are provided to the patients. Besides providing dental treatment, panchakarma treatment based on Ayurvedic and Siddha systems are available. The medical care available at Santhigiri, has become widely known for winter ‘09 Go Kerala 51

Lifestyle & shopping its efficacy and effectiveness, being attested by all those who had personally experienced benefits of the services. The staffs of the Hospital Complex are no sticklers to the ‘rules.’ They shy away from no work. It is not at all uncommon for nurses washing the dirty linens, mopping the floors and engaging in sanitary duties.

Herbal Garden Medicines are essential for saving life as well as for preserving health. To ensure the availability of genuine medicines, adequate quantities of their ingredients have to be produced. The preservation of herbs and other medicinal plants, is particularly significant in an age when man’s ignorance and recklessness, have caused immense damage to the environment, causing the disappearance of many useful herbs. All sorts of medicinal plants and herbs, including the extremely rare species, are planted and cared for in the herbal garden. The expansion of this garden is also envisaged.

Nava Jyothi Sri Karunakara Guru Nava Jyothi Sri Karunakara Guru (September 1, 1927 - 1999) , founder and spiritual leader of Santhigiri Ashram, was born in Chandiroor, Alappuzha district. The humility, dignity and calm poise of this ascetic, attracted the young aspirant to the devotees who came in large numbers to the institution of Sivagiri Madam of Sri Narayana Guru. Before long, in the year 1957, the Guru bid farewell to Sivagiri and shifted to Varkala. That place had started to be known as Santhigiri. While at Sivagiri people used to call the Guru as Karunakaran Santhi.

The word Santhi stands for the one who performs pooja -worship. The word giri stands for mountain. Thus, the giri -mountain- to where Karunakaran Santhi was shifted, becoming Santhigiri, which now truly signifies ‘the mountain of peace,’ place where tens of thousands of people have come seeking directions in their material, emotional and spiritual life so as to be led to the supreme aim of human life, which is the communion with the Supreme Light. This was the beginning of Santhigiri Ashram. The teachings of Karunakara Guru inspired many creative writers of Kerala. His immense influence inspired O. V. Vijayan to write Gurusagaram. Malayalam movie Guru, which was the official entry from India for the Academy Award for Best Foreign film in 1997, was directed

by Rajeev Anchal, thanks to the influence of Karunakara Guru's teachings.

Ayurveda and Siddha Medicine Manufacturing Ayurveda and Siddha Medicines were evolved by the great Rishies in the ancient ages who were Atmajyanies. In course of social development these systems lost

52 Go Kerala winter ‘09

Ashram has developed medicines for the total cure of cancer, arthritis, sinusitis and other ailments. its organic growth and dyamism. With a view to liberate these great systems from the growing commercialisation and to preserve purity and ensuring quality, these medicines are manufactured by selfless devotees with prayers in the Ashra m. On Guru’s advice very new medicines have been evolved.

Santhigiri Ayurveda and Siddha Vaidya sala produ ce more than 400 items of medicines including proprietary medicines on a large scale and market them. These medicines are approved by the State Drugs Control Authority for sale in India and abroad. The pharmacy unit

PANCHAKARMA THERAPY People are confused with this term. Everyone believes that Panchakarma therapy means 'massage'. As a matter of fact there is no 'massage' in Ayurveda Therapy.

The systematic application of medicated oil is called 'massage' which actually is "Abhyangam".

Panchakarma means the five 'kriyas', which is to purify and eliminate the impurities from the body.

They are: 1. NASYAM (application of small drops of medicine through nose) 2. VAMANAM (induced vomiting) 3. VIRECHANAM (purgation) 4. VASTHI (medicated enema) 5. RAKTHAMOKSHAM (bloodletting) Panchakarma is purification therapy.

IMPORTANT THERAPIES The various other 'Kriyas' for various purposes are given below: REJUVENATION THERAPY (ABYANGAM & SWEDANAM) Systematic application of medicated oil on the body, medicated steam and bath.

Duration : 1 hour Indication: Low back ache, complexion of skin, muscular toning, body shaping, increase in memory, vigor & vitality, retard ageing process.

SIRODHARA Pouring of lukewarm medicated oil on the forehead.

Duration : 30 minutes Indication: Loss of sleep, eye diseases, mental diseases, stress, hair con forms to the certification for Good Manufacturing Practices (G.M.P) as laid down by the Drugs Controller, Drugs Control Department, Government of Kerala. Santhigiri medicines reach the hands of ultimate users anywhere in the world through a well-organized network of over 70 branches, more than thousand agencies and dealers.

The profit out of the medicine sales are used for charitable purposes like free

food, accommodation, education, rehabilitation etc., measures - all with the blessings of GURU. The Santhigiri Ashram had a humble beginning with a small thatch roofed hut barely of twenty square feet. Now it has more than 1500 inmates from all walks of life, bulk of them are volunteers, who get their barest necessities, only in exchange for most grueling tasks for most of the day. The self imposed discipline to ac-

loss, migraine, neurological problems, stiffness in neck, etc NASYAM Application of small drop/drops of medicine through nose.

Duration : 30 minutes Indication: Migraine, facial paralysis, bell's plasy, frozen shoulder, ENT problems, etc.

KIZHI (Elakizhi, Navarakizhi, Narangakizhi, Podikizhi, etc) Fomentation with various combinations of fresh herbal leaves, medicines, etc..

Duration : 1 hour Indication: Muscular dystrophy, cervical & lumbar spondylosis, paralysis, lumbago, rheumatic pains, sports injuries, rejuvenation, etc.

NETRA TARPANAM, PUDAPAKAM Application of medicines on the eyes Duration : 15 to 30 minutes Indication: Various eye diseases UDWARTHANAM Application of medicated powder on the body Duration : 45 minutes Indication: Obesity PIZHICHIL Pouring of lukewarm medicated oil on the body systematically Duration : 45 minutes Indication: Paralysis, sciatica, Osteo-arthritis, horse feet, numbness, disc prolepses, etc.

BEST TREATMENTS Apart from REJUVENATION programme, OBESITY treatments, COSMETIC packages, treatment facilities are also available for various diseases.

complish the existing work is a phenomena worth seeing to be believed.

How to Reach: Santhigiri Ashram is situated on a beautiful hillock, 24 Kms. away from Trivandrum city, capital of Kerala, South India. Government buses and private taxies are available to reach Ashram.

Tel No. +91 471 419313 or 419056 Fax No.+91 471 419076 www.santhigiri.com winter ‘09 Go Kerala 52

shopping promotions hopping in Kerala make for a delightful experience. It is as exciting as touring the mystical place.

The land is traditionally rich in handicrafts. Apart from the usual knickknacks, there are many eatables that you can buy in Kerala.

The famed banana chips are available in each and every shop in Kerala.

While in Kerala, shopping can be done in major cities like Kochi, Trivandrum, Calicut etc. In all major cities, you will find

S

not only the flea markets but also glittering malls and showrooms. You shouldn't have much of a problem in deciding what to buy in Kerala.

Kerala is famous for gold and every road in Kerala's major cities will have a huge jewellery shop.Indian gold is pricey so check the on going rates before you buy anything.

Apart from jewellery, Kerala is wellknown for its ivory carvings, pottery, brocade fabrics and earthenware prod-

ucts. Also famous are the Indian spices that are available in Kerala. You can choose from turmeric, pepper, ginger powder and other exotic spices that are available only in Kerala.

Do not hesitate to bargain a bit on the prices. Chances are that you may get a discount of around Rs. 50 - Rs.100.

Katahakali is a renowned dance form in Kerala. Kathakali-masks made of wood or papier-mâché are also favourite buys with the tourists.

browsing diamonds

ALAPATT JEWELLERY, COCHIN, KERALA

Alapatt Jewellery rated as one of the finest and largest of its kind in the country occupies a total of 9000 sq.ft on the ground, first and second floors of House of Alapatt.

The entire second floor houses the exclusive state of the art Tribhovandas Bhimji Zaveri, Zaveri Bazar, Mumbai’s Diamond Jewellery showroom.

HOUSE OF ALAPATT, M.G.ROAD, COCHIN - 682 016, KERALA, INDIA Tel : +91 0484 - 2375697, 2375682, 2378766, Fax : +91 0484 2376988, info@houseofalapatt.com

ALUKKAS JEWELLARY, COCHIN, KERALA Alukkas Jewellery is the flagship company of the Joy Alukkas Group. With 38 outlets spread across the Gulf in the Middle East and Kerala in India the Group is today the world's No.1 22 karat jewellery retailer.

Regional Office India: P.O.Box 3014, Banerji Rd, Kurien Towers, Cochin Phone : 91- 484 - 2398777, Fax : 91 484 2395131

A GIEERIPAI JEWELLERS, COCHIN, KERALA A. Geeri Pai Jewellers, Broadway, Cochin, a cut above the rest. It's the only jewellery in Kerala, which shimmers in the brilliance of 127 years of tradition.

For over 3 generations, right from the times of erstwhile princely states, those who wanted the finest diamonds, gems and jewellery sought only one name. A. Geeri Pai..... However far they were, from Cochin A. GEERI PAI JEWELLERS, Broadway, Ernakulam, Cochin - 682 031,Kerala, India. Phone : +91 484 2352156, e-mail : mail@ageeripai.com

54 Go Kerala winter ‘09

KIRTHI DIAMOND JEWELLERY, COCHIN, KERALA Superior quality Diamonds manufactured at own Factory, Priced 25 - 35 % less than any other retail outlet in Kerala A Kaleidoscopic collection of diamond jewels We value your Money & Interest We also design jewels in our own showroom as per the customers choice 34 / 572, Byepass Road, Palarivattom, Cochin 682 024 Phone : 0484 - 2807151, Mobile : 98470 86998, 98461 - 66998, E - mail :kirthidiamonds@yahoo.co.in

BHIMA JEWELLERY, COCHIN, KERALA Bhima, over 75 years of gold with excellence. Innovative jewellery designs that only gets better with each creation because only a few manage to grow young with experience. For Bhima, the tradition started in 1925.

Trivandrum showroom - Elankath Complex,Opp. S.L. Theatre,Thiruvananthapuram.,Kerala,India.

Phone: +91 471 - 461631, 463645, Fax: +91 471 - 463484, E-mail : bhima@bhimajewellery.com

Travel

paradise picturesque drive to

When folks living in a place called God's Own Country refer to another piece of land as 'Green Paradise', you know there's something extraordinary about it. And Wayanad, on the southern tip of the Western Ghats, is proof. Wayanad - with its mist-clad hills, sprawling spice plantations and evergreen woods - was a rejuvenating experience for us. It can be one for you too. winter ‘09 Go Kerala 55

UP ABOVE THE

WAYANAD HILLS

56 Go Kerala winter ‘09

Visuals: Aji Colonia

Travel

winter ‘09 Go Kerala 57

Travel ucked away at an altitude of 700-2100 meters above sea level, Wayanad is probably the only hill station of its kind in Kerala. As my car wound its way up the Thamarassery Ghat, I craned my neck to have a peek at a banyan tree bound by a large chain around its trunk. Legend has it that a tribal from Wayanad had showed a British engineer (who was searching for a route to build a road running through Wayanad) the Thamarassery Ghat as an easy way to reach Mysore from Kozhikode. Eager to take credit for the same, the engineer bumped off the tribal.

He buried the latter’s body under a nearby banyan tree. Soon after these roads were built, the Thamarassery Ghat witnessed a spurt in the number of acci-

T

a typical wayanad tree house

58 Go Kerala winter ‘09

dents. These horrendous accidents were attributed to the tribal’s wanton spirit haunting the place. Before long, an exorcist was summoned… The latter is said to have chained the tribal’s spirit onto that banyan tree. It’s believed that since, there has been a dramatic fall in the number of accidents here.

Wayanad District lies in the Western Ghats at an altitude of 2,300-7,000 ft. It has an area of around 2,100 sq km, and a population of around 7 lakh, which makes it the least populous district of Kerala. This adds to its charm, for people who have been to Wayanad are captivated by the pastoral serenity and the slow pace of life they encounter everywhere. The district has three main towns, namely, Kalpetta, Mananthavady and

Sulthan Bathery (thus called because Tipu Sultan built a fort there). Of these, Kalpetta, which is closest to Kozhikode, is the district headquarters and usually, the first stop in any tour of Wayanad.

Kalpetta has one lake (Pookote Lake, situated 8 km away), one peak (Chembra Peak, about 14 km away), several waterfalls and resorts aplenty. But for wildlife, one has to seek out the other two towns, namely Mananthavady and Sulthan Bathery, from where it is easier to access the Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary. The hills, rocks and valleys, which contribute to the very unique character of Wayanad, provide a lot of adventure tourism. Trekking to the Chembra peak is a risky mountaineering endeavour. Chembra peak, the highest hill in Wayanad, is near Meppady

town. Trekking to the top of the peak takes almost a day. Tourists can also stay one or two days at the top of the peak in temporary camps. District Tourism Promotion Council provides guides, sleeping bags, canvases, huts and trekking implements on hire. The scenic beauty of Wayanad, which is visible from the top of Chembra, is very exhilarating.

Sulthan Bathery is considered the headquarters of the Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary (Tel: 04936-220454). The Muthanga Wildlife Range (15 km) and Tholpetty Wildlife Range (70 km) are the two entry points into the sanctuary. The latter comprises the northern section of the sanctuary and is therefore also known as Upper Wayanad WLS. It is around 25 km from Mananthavady. The southern

the peak of chembra

Thamarassery Ghat

winter ‘09 Go Kerala 59

Travel section, the Muthanga Wildlife Range or Lower Wayanad WLS, is 15 km from Sulthan Bathery on the road to Mysore. In case you are interested in going on the Pakshipathalam trek, you should get in touch with the Deputy Conservator of Forests, North Wayanad, Mananthavady (Tel: 04936-240233, 09447979074).

Muthanga is contiguous with the Bandipur NP in Karnataka and the Mudumalai WLS in Tamil Nadu while the Tholpetty Wildlife Range is contiguous with the Nagarhole NP in Karnataka. In other words, Wayanad, Mudumalai, Nagarhole and Bandipur constitute a single large forest tract separated only by political boundaries.

In the fringe areas of the sanctuary are Inspection Bungalows of the Kerala Forest Department; visitors can stay at both these places with prior permission.

You can hire trained guides (Rs 100 per day) at the Muthanga and Tholpetty range offices. There are no Forest Department jeeps but you can hire private jeeps from Muthanga and Tholpetty checkposts and also from Sulthan Bathery (Rs 250 per trip). The Forest Department is planning to start jeep safaris. Trekking packages (Rs 500-1,500) covering 3- to 32-km long trails in the sanctuary, are also likely to be offered soon.

Tourists can visit the watchtower in the tourist zone but the ones located in the core area are out of bounds. It may be possible for tourists to visit these once the department launches its trekking packages. No night travel is permitted; exceptions are by

chembra hills Opposite page: Climbing the peak of chembra

60 Go Kerala winter ‘09

special permission only. Sanctuary entry fee Indians Rs 10, foreigners Rs 100 Guide fee Rs 100 Vehicle entry fee Rs 50-150 Cameras Rs 25-150 Sanctuary timings 69 am, 3-6 pm

Major Attractions: Banasura Sagar Dam: This is the largest earth dam in India. The topography here is such that many islands will be formed in the upstream of the dam when the dam is full. These islands with the background of the Banasura hill will provide a hypnotising sight to tourists.

Edakkal Cave: This location is breath-taking beauty is three kilometers from Ambalavayal which is 25 kms. from Kalpetta.

The Edakkal cave in the Ambukuthy Mountain is not a cave in the real sense. it is only 'a cleft about 96 ft. long and 22 ft. wide in the rock'. It is a fissure made by a corner of rock splitting off from the main body due to some natural causes.

The depth of both the cleft and the fissure is 30 ft.

Kuruva Island: The Kuruva Island, 950 acres of evergreen forest on the tributaries of east following river Kabani, is an ideal picnic spot, far away from the disturbance of city life. The island is uninhabited. Rare spicies of birds, orchids and herbs are the sovereigns of this supernal kingdom. It is 17 kms. east of Mananthavady and 40 kms. north west of Sulthan Bathery.

Lakkidi: One of the highest locations in Wayanad, Lakkidi also commands picturesque scenery. It is about 58 kms. north east of

Kozhikode and five kms. south of Vythiri.

Lakkidi, the gateway of Wayanad, lies atop Thamarassery, a ghats pass at an elevation of 700 m. above mean sea level.

The lofty mountain peaks, the gurging stream, luxuriant vegetation and the bird's eye view of the deep valley on the south, with its winding roads, are breath taking.

Muthanga Wild Life Sanctuary: Muthanga, which is 16 kms. east of Sulthan Bathery, is located very near to the Karnataka border. Wild forests covering an area of 345 sq.kms. from the Muthanga Wild Life Sanctuary; the biggest abode of wild animals in Malabar.

Pakshipathalam: Pakshipathalam in the Brahmagiri hills at Thirunelli is a challenging tourist spot for any adventure seeking tourist. To reach Pakshipathalam, seventeen kms have to be covered through wild forest. The deep rock caves, formed among the thick blocks of rocks at the northern top end of the Brahmagiri, are the abode of various birds and wild beasts. Special permissions have to be obtained from Forest Department to go to Pakshipathalam.

Pookot Lake :It is a natural fresh water lake, brimmed with evergreen mountains.

The weather here is salacious; the scenic beauty, hypnotising and the nature, unspoiled. Pookot Lake tourist resort inVythiri is the most sought after tourist spot of Wayanad.

Soochippara Waterfall: The waterfalls at Soochippara near Meppadi are really a treasure of nature, yet to be discovered.

The stretches of waterfalls ranging at places from 100 to 300 feet height are a treat to the eyes. The tree top huts at Soochippara give a unique view of the valleys of the Western Ghats.

winter ‘09 Go Kerala 61

Travel Promotions

Wayanad

Rain Country Resorts

Green Magic Nature Resorts

A haven of Solitude & Peace Lakkidi, Wayanad- 673576, Kerala, India.

Thalipuzha, Vythiri, Wayanad, Kerala.

Facilities: Rain Country Resorts, Lakkidi, Wayanad; invites you to this unique land of misty w o o d e d mountains for a perfect retreat. We offer 4 cottages built in traditional Kerala architecture, can accommodate 8 families.

Rare species of animals, birds etc.

Trekking, swimming, fishing and visit to important tourist spots on request.

For Reservation: raincountry@hotelskerala.com

Hotel Green Gates T.B. Road, Kalpetta North, Wayanad-673122, Kerala Facilities: Games Parlour, Amusement Park & Play House, Health Club, Conference / Banquet Halls, Camping Out At Night, Rock Climbing, Tr e k k i n g , Evening enter tainment, Vedic Remedies, Abhyanga Sudhikriya, Abhyanga - Avagaham, Sudhikriya, Shirodhara, Pizhichil For Reservation: greengate@hotelskerala.com

Hotel Haritagiri The Parco group of hotels Kalpetta, Wayanad, Kerala, India.

Facilities: Traditional Malabar hospitality, Choice of rooms, Elegantly designed interiors, Laundry service, Doctor on call, Delicious multi cuisine, Lawn service, Roof top restaurant, Neeli Bar for keeping your spirits high, Children's corner, CCTV and telephone facility in every room, Ample parking space, Ayurvedic treatment facility, Conducted tours on request, Internet facility, Conference/Banquet facilities (Capacity 100pax & 40 pax) equipped with audio-visual system.

62 Go Kerala winter ‘09

Facilities: 500 acres of pristine verdant tropical rainforest. A totally dedicated Ecolodge and ethnic houses built on trees with all basic facilities. Access to the Tree House (86 feet above from the ground level) by an indigenous cane lift is worked by a unique counter weight of water. Double beds with an attached bathroom with flushing toilette, telep h o n e shower, wash basin with r u n n i n g water, carpeted veranda and sit-out. The House is made of Eco-friendly materials. Food is prepared from fruits and vegetables grown in the organic farm without any chemical fertilizers or pesticides.

For Reservation: haritagiri@hotelskerala.com

Vythiri Resorts Vythiri , Wayanad, Kerala.

Profile: Vythiri is a picturesque place located in the sylvan Northern High Ranges of Kerala in Wayanad district. Exclusive, comfortable, refreshing, pollution free and inspiring.

Acres and acres of lush green land interspersed with perennial streams and rolling hills, at Vythiri, an undertaking of Primeland Holdings Pvt. Ltd. situated near the Pookode Lake, in Wayanad District.

For Reservation: vythiriresorts@hotelskerala.com

Greeshmam Resorts Valley View, Lakkidi-673 576, Wayanad District, Kerala.

Facilities: Exclusive Keralites hospitality.

Distinctive ambience. Mesmerizing natural beauty. 44 well appointed rooms.

Ay u r ve d i c rejuvenation c e n t re .

Open-air stage. Coffee Shop.

Multi-Cuisine restau-

rant. Malabar Delicacies. Large Lawn area for functions and parties. Mini conference hall. Club House. Room Service. Laundry.

Doctor on call. Arranged sight seeing tours. Pick up and drop. 60 KM from Calicut city. 88 KM from Calicut Airport. Located at Lakkidi, Wayanad. off Calicut-Bangalore-Mysore-Ooty NH-212.

For Reservation: greeshmam@hotelskerala.com

Stream Valley Cottages Under Home-Stay of Kerala Tourism Vythiri, Wayanad, Kerala.

Facilities: Round the year flowing stream for Natural Bathing. Exclusive tree House.

Attic with grass thatched roof. The Natural Landscapes & Trees preserved. Ecofriendly cottages on stills with view of the stream.

Round the year flowering plants, winders on trees. Luxurious living room with convertible sofas, Dining facilities and Cable TV. Spacious bedrooms with ward robe Luggage rake, Dressing area etc. Modern Toilets with round the clock Hot Water.

Kitchenette with Cutlery, Crockery, vessels, fridge etc., Balcony with Wooden flooring overlooking the stream. Central Kitchen for Traditional food (service on request). Intercom Telephone, Internet connection, Evergreen lawns & landscaped well lit walkways. Covered Car parking & Drivers accommodation. Outdoor dining and Barbeque facilities.

For Reservation: streamvalley@hotelskerala.com

Tranquil Resorts Aswati Plantations Ltd. Kuppamudi Coffee Estate, Kolagapara PO, Sultan Battery, Wayanad- 673591, Kerala.

Profile: Tranquil believes in promoting ecotourism in India in an unusual way. It is part of a working coffee plantation spread across 400 acres. In the midst of this plantation is a sprawling bungalow with an oldworld charm. Here you will be staying as house guests of Mrs. & Mr. Dey. For Reservation: tranquilresort@hotelskerala.com. for more hotels & resorts energize@ www.nonstopkerala.com

Food & Drink

Fish it out

Kerala offers one of the most varied cuisines of any place on the planet. These goodies are best appreciated with nothing between you and the eating experience. Those unfortunates who have used cutlery all their lives might like to scan the instructions on the gracious art of eating with your fingers. Here is something worth trying out – wonderful perlspot from kumarakom backwaters. winter ‘09 Go Kerala 63

Food & Drink

Karimeen Pollichathu • 2 Pearl spot fish (Karimeen) • A piece of ginger, finely chopped • 5 Green chillies, finely chopped • 1/2 Cup small onions, chopped • 1 Cup thick coconut milk • A few Curry leaves • A few Plantain leaves • Oil as required

For paste • 1 Piece ginger • 2 tsp Chilly powder • 5 Garlic pods • 1 tbsp Pepper powder • A few curry leaves • 1 tsp Turmeric powder • Salt to taste

• Grind ginger, garlic pods, chilly powder, pepper powder, turmeric powder, curry leaves and salt for making a fine paste.

• Marinate the fish with the above paste for about one hour.

• Coat few heated plantain leaves with oil.

• Place the marinated fish over it and put the entire thing in a frying pan.

• Cover and cook it over low flame till it is done.

• Take another frying pan and heat oil, sauté chopped onions, ginger, green chillies and curry leaves in it.

• Place the cooked fish without the plantain leaves in the above pan and coat it well with the sautéed masala.

• Combine coconut milk and mix well.

• Simmer for few minutes, until all the water gets evaporated.

• Wrap them in the plantain leaves and serve.

Visuals: Praveen Elayi

How to make

banquet from the land of coconuts

64 Go Kerala winter ‘09

winter ‘09 Go Kerala 65

Food & Drink

umarakom the charming emerald peninsula jutting into the ever-effervescent Vembanad Lake takes you into the heart of the scenic lake where you'll come across plenty of traditional country crafts, boats and canoes. The fresh water of the lake runs into the mainland making a labyrinth of lagoons, brooks, canals and waterways. The backwater houses a variety of species of both fauna and flora When nature is all you need to recuperate, Kumarakom is undoubtedly the most invigorating, fascinating paradise on Kerala, God's own country. The slender co-

K

66 Go Kerala winter ‘09

conut palms standing here, there and everywhere, its never ending paddy fields, meandering lagoons and backwaters, mangroves nesting birds of a hundred varieties can peacefully calm and invigorate your mind with renewed inspiration for your vocation and life. That is the pristine beauty of Kumarakom.

The Food: Kumarakom offers you a plethora of dining options, from Chinese to North Indian, continental to American and many more. Rice and fish is the staple diet of Kumarakom. Also, like other parts of Ker-

ala, you will find coconut as a major ingredient in all the food that you get to eat here. Other food is typically south Indian like idli, dosa, uthapam and sambhar.

Food is generally very spicy and will have a rich taste of coconut which may not be cherished by people coming from outside of Kerala. Some of the most popular dishes amongst the tourists are the Syrian Christian Duck Roast, Thamarappam, Karimeen Mappas, Duck Curry, Karimeen Pollichathu, soft spongy rice bread called Appam, Idiappams (string-hoppers), etc. besides tropical fruits, vegetables and cereals.

left & previous page: Eastend Lakesong Resort, Kumarkom. top: Chef Ajaib preparing Karimeen Pollichathu. See the previous page for recipe.

Lakesong: Lapped upon by inviting waters, cooled by fresh breeze and waving coconut fronds…awaits the sought after blissful tranquility called “Lakesong”. Nestled among the serene backwaters of Kumarakom, Lakesong comprises of 8 acres of facility packed leisure land. It is indeed a retreat with a difference in that it offers excellent facilities with uncompromising quality and superb service. It is an idyllic retreat that offers an unparallel opportunity to savor the magical sensation of Kerala. A true Kerala retreat, Eastend

Lakesong Kumarkom has an innovative inland private canal which allows you to reach the reception desk, all by boat! The resort offers cottages and rooms done in colonial style.

The rooms are well appointed with air conditioning, cable television, directdial telephone and Wi-Fi system. It offers a neatly laid out gabled cottages and rooms with tiled roof and unplastered exteriors are reminiscent of the Malabar Mansions and blend in to the lush green landscaped ground harmoniously, in Acres of land with largest water front, all with very modern facilities.

Getting there: Air: International airports at Trivandrum, Cochin and Calicut connecting flights from Kerala and abroad. Nearest airport is Cochin.

Rail: Connecting from major cities in India. Nearest railway station is Kottayam.

Road: The nearest bus terminal is at Kottayam, 14 Km away by road.

Best Time to Visit: Winter: October - January (22 - 32 Dg. C) The best season to visit is between November and March. winter ‘09 Go Kerala 67

Food & Drink

Naadan Meen (Fish) Curry with Kudam Puli Ingredients 1. Fish – 8 to10 curry sized pieces (I used Seer Fish/Ney Meen) 2. Turmeric Powder – 1/4 tsp 3. Lemon Juice – 1 tbsp 4. Kudam Puli (Garcinia/Kokum/Kokam) – 3 or 4 small pieces 5. Finely Sliced Shallots/Pearl Onions – 6 to 8 6. Slit Green Chilies – 4 7. Minced Ginger – 2 tbsp 8. Minced Garlic – 2 tbsp 9. Curry Leaves – A sprig 10. Fish Masala Powder – 2 tbsp 11. Kashmiri Chilly Powder – 1 tbsp 12. Coriander Powder – 1 tbsp 13. Fenugreek Powder (Uluva) – 1/4 tsp 14. Oil – 2 tbsp 15. coconut past -70 grm 16. coconut milk -70 ml 17. Water – as required 18. Salt – to taste

For Marinating 1. Fish Masala Powder – 1 tbsp 2. Ginger Garlic Paste – 1 tbsp 3. Red Chilly Powder – 1 tsp 4. Salt – to taste

Preparation Method 1. Wash and clean the fish fillets. Add a pinch of turmeric powder and 1 tbsp lemon juice to water and soak the fish fillets for 5 minutes. Drain and keep aside.

2. Prepare a marinade using the above ingredients and rub it on the fish.

3. Meanwhile peel the shallots and slice it into small round pieces.

4. Soak the cocum pieces in a cup of warm water.

5. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a deep pan. Add the shallots and sauté for a while.

6. Add curry leaves, green chilies, ginger and garlic and sauté.

7. Make a paste using chilly powder, fish masala powder and coriander powder adding very little water.

8. Reduce heat and add the paste. Stir for 3-4 minutes until the raw smell disappears. Sprinkle 1/4 tsp fenugreek powder and stir.

9. Add the kokum (kudam puli) pieces along with half of the tamarind water.

10. Add 2 more cups of water and little salt. Increase heat and bring the gravy to a boil.

11. Reduce heat to medium and add the fish fillets along with the marinade. Cook uncovered for 15 minutes swirling the pan occasionally.

12. Add coconut past and milk .cook 30 seconds more 13. Switch off the stove and cover the pan. Keep this fish curry for atleast 6-7 hours before serving, so that the fish absorbs all the flavors. You can remove a few pieces of kudam puli/kokum if you find the gravy to be very sour.

68 Go Kerala winter ‘09

They say when you are in Rome, do as Romans do. Likeways, when you are in Kerala... Start with a mouth watering local dish- all spicy, all delish.

Shibu, Executive Chef, Hotel The Senete, Providence Road, Kochi is all happy to be your tutor.

Here we go: Let us make this curry using seer fish- locally known as ney meen. This Meen Curry is lot more healthy than the more famed Kerala Fried Fish. It could be served with rice or chappathi. I bought this fish from Chambakkara fish market. I had to rush there- early in the morning, which finally paid off. I got the best of the catch. Here are some tips that have to be born in your mind while picking up fish: 1. Eyes should be bright and not sunken 2. Gills should be red 3. The tail should be stiff 4. The flesh should firm and flabby 5. Their should not be any unpleasant odour

Shibu

Art & Culture

Expression without Limitations

Culturally, Kerala presents a pageant not found anywhere else in India. Until some years back it was just the Kathakali or theyyam performances.

The stage has changed. Kerala has developed its traditional theatre to the heights many never dreamed off. The local theatre, once filled with soap operas is on the change. Chayamukhi, a state-of-art drama shows us how this happens. winter ‘09 Go Kerala 71

Art & Culture

Visuals: rajan karimoola

The Magical Spectrum

Mohanlal and Mukesh in Chayamukhi

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Art & Culture It is easy to love, but difficult to be loved. Each and every human being, at some point of their life passes through this situation. This is not a situation. It’s a curse- Curse of Love. This has been the story from the beginning and will last till the end. Prasanth Narayanan, the director of the play, has drawn this universal truth

by CHAYAMUKHI, the story taken from epic Mahabharata.

The play revolves around a magical mirror, call it ‘CHAYAMUKHI’. The Demon princess Hidumbi loved Bheema and gifted him a mirror. The mirror, CHAYAMUKHI, never reflects the person, but the image of the onlooker’s ardent loved. Hidumbi asks Bheema to look into the mirror. It was Draupadi in the mirror.

Hidumbi realizes that his mind was filled with Draupadi. First time, we recognize, it is easy to love, but difficult to be loved.

The agony is the same, be it princess or the demon.

Union of Geniuses As the curtain went up for the opening show of CHAYAMUKHI, on 12th March 2009, few realized it as the introduction of the greatest positive sign in the contemporary Malayalam theatre. Dias witnessed for some fabulous momentscoming back of versatile actors Mohanlal and Mukesh to the stage, young and vibrant director Prasanth Narayanan’s craft, Pattanam Rasheed’s technical skills of makeup and folk melody by composers Mohan Sithara and Vidhyadharan.

Moreover, it was the willingness to spend a big fortune to this unsupportive arena.

Mohanlal- Take best ten actors (either film or theatre) from India, he is one of them. Take five; no doubt, he is one of them. Make it three; definitely, he is one of them. And name the final one; that is Mohanlal. He is a regular face in Indian cinema for the last 25 years with nawarasa (nine emotions of acting).

Mohanlal’s transformation from film to the theatre as Bheema, the central character of CHAYAMUKHI, is astonishing. It is his first full length Malayalam play. Earlier, Mohanlal had costumed for the role of Karna in ‘Karna Bharam’, Sanskrit play, by the noted playwright Kavalam Narayana Panickar. Two time national award winner and one of the busiest figures in the Indian film industry, Mohanlal, and his crew have rehearsed for sixty days to present CHAYAMUKHI

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nicely.

Prasanth Narayanan- Oh my God, why had he waited 38 years, to come up with such a top level play? May be the answer is this- Mr. Narayanan is an extra ordinary genius. Mr. Narayanan wrote an ‘Aattakkatha’ (Kathakali play), ‘Bharatha ntham’ in 1991, when he was 18. Is it possible, an eighteen year boy make a film like ‘Titanic’? In Kathakali play, Bharatha ntham stands peer with Titanic, if not of

greater value.

Late twenties and the earlier of thirties of Mr. Narayanan were the period of wandering. He was drifting through the Sub continent with no aim in particular. He could not call to mind, when it happened.

Definitely it was one of his alcoholic evenings at a village in Gujarat. A folk tale passed through his ear. It was the tale of a magic mirror and villagers called it CHAYAMUKHI. And rest remains history.

Prasanth Narayanan, the play writer and actor, Chayamukhi

Chayamukhi on stage, extreme right is Mohanlal, the lead

Mukesh- Hats off to the producer and the anti hero of the play CHAYAMUKHI, Mukesh. He may be the anti hero in the play but not for Malayalam theatre.

Mukesh’s character keechaka enters the dais in a hysteric mood and the play reaches to high altitude from there.

Mukesh’s Kalidasa visual magic spent around one million US dollars for CHAYAMUKHI to bring it on theatre. This effort was amazing and critically ap-

plauded, especially in a stage where theatre plays are fast becoming nothing short of mimics or soap operas. “It was not for any personal gain that I wanted to produce this play; my aim is to bring audiences back to the theatre, Mukesh explain his intention.

Brocken Rhythm of love Amidst thrilling victories over his opponents, Bheema feels loneliness. He ex-

presses his grief over his lost love even after leasing his faith on Draupadi. The magic mirror unveils the minds of all characters. It was draupadi for Bheema, Arjuna for draupadi and again draupadi for keechaka as well. Bheema’s depth of loneliness gradually overwins his emotions. Towards the end of the play, when Bheema tries to kill Keechaka, he notices Draupadi’s face in mirror, this time the onlooker being Keechaka. Bheema feels sorry for Keechaka even after seeing this.

Here, Keechaka’s words stirring the minds of viewers, “Bheema, please kill me. Otherwise you may see my face in Chayamukhi because of the soft hearted approach impulsively formed in your mind towards me.”

The play ends with a monologue from Bheema which reveals the bitter truth that love is often killed by the arrow of reality, dipped in the highly toxic pretension, which deceives mankind. winter ‘09 Go Kerala 75

Catch Up

2010

Kerala Festival Calendar Padayani Kadammanitta Padayani: 14 to 21 Apr 2010 Neelamperoor Padayani: 18 Sep 2010 Othara Padayani: 24 Mar 2010 Theyyam Kanathoor Nalvar Bhoothasthanam: 28 Dec 2009 to 01 Jan 2010 Kuttikkol Thampuratty Theyyam: 22 to 26 Feb 2010 Perumthitta Tharavad Kottamkuzhy: 06 to 15 Dec 2009

Elephant Pageants Adoor Gajamela: 26 Jan 2010 Arattupuzha Pooram: 28 Mar 2010 Chinakkathoor Pooram: 28 Feb 2010 Parippally Gajamela: 07 Mar 2010 Pariyanampetta Pooram: 19 Feb 2010 Thrissur Pooram : 24 Apr 2010 Uthralikavu Pooram: 02 Mar 2010

Onam Onam – The Festival: 02 Sep 2009 Pulikali : 05 Sep 2009 Thripunithura Athachamayam: 23 Aug 2009

Temple Festivals Attuvela Mahotsavam: 19 Mar 2010 Chettikulangara Bharani: 20 Feb 2010 Kalpathi Ratholsavam: 13, 14, 15 Nov 2010 Kodungalloor Bharani: 20 Mar 2010 Machattu Mamangam: 23 Feb 2010 Malanada Kettukazhcha: 26 Mar 2010 Nenmara Vallangi Vela : 03 Apr 2010

76 Go Kerala winter ‘09

Thaipooya Mahotsavam, Harippad: 30 Jan 2010 Thaipooya Mahotsavam, Koorkancherry : 30 Jan 2010 Thirunakkara festival: 15 to 24 Mar 2010 Vaikathashtami Festival: 25 Nov 2009

Snake Boat Races Aranmula Boat Race: 06 Sep 2009 Champakkulam Boat Race: 26 Jun 2010 Nehru Trophy Boat Race: 08 Aug 2010 Payippad Boat Race: 04 Sep 2010

Chandanakkudam Pattambi Nercha: 07 Feb 2010 Kanjiramattom Kodikuthu: Jan 13-14 every year

Feasts Arthunkal Perunnal: 20 Jan 2010 Edathua Perunnal: 27 Apr to 7 May 2010 Koratty Muthy's Feast: Second week of October Malayattoor Perunnal: 1 st Sunday after Easter Manarcad Perunnal, Kottayam: 1 to 8 Sep 2010 Parumala Perunnal: 02 Nov 2010 Vettukadu Perunnal - Feast of Christ, the King: 3rd week of November

District wise festival list Alappuzha AMBALAPUZHA MOOLAKAZHCHA: 26-06-2010 Ambalapuzha Sree KrishnaTemple : Elephants, Percussion : 2304-2010 ARTHUNGAL CHURCH: Offering gold & silver replicas of Human limbs - rare ritual: 20-

01-2010 Chambakulam Boat race: 2606-2010 Chettikulangara Devi Temple: BHARANI MAHOTSAVAM 7 days Art forms & Kuthiyottom: 20-02-2010 Chettikulangara Kettukazhcha : 19-03-2010 NEHRU TROPHY BOAT RACE: Punnamada Lake 14-08-2010 Payippattu Boat Race: 25-08-2010 Rajiv Gandhi Trophy Boat Race: Pulinkunnu Lake.

05-11-2010

Ernakulam Aluva Manapuram Siva Temple Elephants, Percussion & Spl pgmmes.- PITHRUBALI: 12-022010 Ambattukavu Thalapol Elephants Percussion procession: 19-03-2010 Chottanikkara Devi Temple: Ulsavam 9 days - Elephants percussion 8th day important: 22-02-2010 Chottanikkara Devi Temple: Makom Thozhal 2 P.M.: 28-022010 Edaprakkavu Ambasserykavu: Kakkur - Bullock Cart Race - 4 days: 19-02-2010 Elavoor Puthenkavu: Elephants, Percussion, special ritual 'THOOKKAM': 23-04-2010 ERNAKULAM SIVA TEMPLE UTSAVAM: 21-01-2010 Kalikkotta Palace, Thrippunithura: Kathakali Program: 17-01-2010 St. Mary's Forane Church, Koratty: procession with Candles 2 days: 16-10-2010 St. Thomas Church, Malayattoor: Climbing the Hill to the Sacred Golden Cross of St. Thomas: 1104-2010 Thrippunithura Athachamayam procession: 10-09-2010 Vamanamurthy temple Thrikkakra: Utsavam - 10 days last day GRAND POORAM: 14-

08-2010 Vypeen W. Island: 6 Days Vypeen Carnival - (New Year Eve Important) 26-12-2010

Idukki 1000 Acre Temple ("Ayiram Acre Temple"): Utsavam - Kavidi & Art forms - 3 days : 28-01-2010 Kali Temple Muthirapuzha: Elephants, Percussion & Art Forms, Kallarkudi: 20-03-2010 Mangala Devi Temple: Rituals, Festivals - Kerala Tamilnadu Border: 28-04-2010 Nedukandam Tourism Festival: 26-01-2010

Kannur Muchilot Kavu: 10 Theyyam Onakkunnu - 6 days: 07-01-2010 Adukkaden Tharavad: 7 Theyyam – Mathil: 29-10-2010 Kizhakkara Chamundi temple: Theyyam "Vayalattom" special art Forms.

01-03-2010 Mambalam: 6 Theyyam-of various Deivams - 4 days: 28-01-2010 Mavilakavu Daivathar Temple: Mudiyettu, Adi & Thikkal (Martial Arts) - 6 days 14-04-2010 PARASSANIKADAVU Muthappan: ANNUAL CELEBRATIONS - Puthari Thiruvappana: 02-12-2010

Kasaragod Anantheswara Sidhi Vinayaka Temple: Utsavam 5 days - Yakshagaanam - (Growing Idol) 13-04-2010 Gulikabana Mangalpadi Special ritual festival - Sonkal 10-06-2010 Hossankudi Ayyappa Temple: AYYAPPOLSAVAM - Procession with & Fireworks: 09-01-2010 Parayil Paradevatha Vettakkaran T.: Pattulsavam 12000 Coconut breaking: 07-02-

2010

nani :"PANTHEERAYIROM' -

Kottayam Mahadeva Temple: Grand Vaikom Ashtami Utsavam 12 Days : 19-11-2010 Mahadeva Temple: PALLIVETTA - Elephants & Percussion: Ashtami vilakku: 29-11-2010 Neelamperoor 16 days' Padayani: - Special Art Forms Last Day Imp: 08-09-2010 Panachikad Saraswathy temple: Navarathri - cultural programmes :08-10-2010

Kollam Aanayadipazhayidom Narasimhaswamy Temple Utsavam: 10 days - last 2 days Pooram: 08-01-2010 Duryodhana Temple, Malanada Colorful fest, fireworks: 2603-2010 Ochira festival: 12 days - Percussion & cultural programmes and rituals: 17-11-2010

Kozhikode Mahi Church: GRAND CHURCH FESTIVAL - 3 days: 14-10-2010 Mananchira :Elephants, Percussion - Ayyappanvilakku - full night: 11-12-2010 Mananchira Ground :Malabar Mahotsavam - 4 Days: 13-012010 Sree Narasimha Parthasarathi Temple: RATHOLSAVAM - 6 days:07-02-2010

Malappuram Kolady Tharavadu Shrine, Pon-

12000 Coconut breaking ritual Oracle etc.: 18-12-2010 Malamakkavu Ayyappa Temple: All Kerala Thayambaka Competition :13-11-2010 Navamukunda Temple: Ekadeshi festival - Elephants & Percussion: 25-02-2010

Palakkad Aamakkavu Devi Temple, Nagalassery: GRAND POORAM : MANY ELEPHANTS, ORACLE, FOLK ART FORMS: 14-03-2010 Chamminikkavu, Aloor: THOLPAVAKOOTHU - 14 days: 16-02-2010 Chithali : B U F F A L O / B U L L O C K RACE: 25-082010 Grand Mosque Festival :Elephants, Percussion &

Procession - 2 days: 11-02-2010 KALPATHI RADHOTSAVAM: 3 days grand festivities - Chariot pushed by elephants - 3 Days: 14-11-2010 KAMBATH CHALLA: BULLOCK CART RACE: 10-01Koduvayur: Onam festivities Martial art : "AVITTATHALLU": 24-08-2010

Pathanamthitta Aranmula Vallamkali :Snake Boat race in Pampa Lake: 27-082010 Kadammanitta Devi Temple: Padayani & Percussion - (8th day important) - 10 days:14-04-2010 Orippurath Thattayil: Kettukazhcha, Garudanthookkom, Votif Horses etc.- 2 days: 20-03-2010 Sabarimala Arattu at Pampa: Utsavam 10 days - Elephants Percussion & procession: 29-03-2010 Sabarimala Sastha Temple: Idol Installation Day Niramala, Chuttuvilakku & rituals : 24-05-2010

Thiruvananthapuram Attukal Devi Temple: Utsavam 9th day - P O N K A L A M A H O L S A V A M: 01-03-2010 Padmanabhaswamy temple :Ten Days' Utsavam - Last Day Royal Procession to seashore: 04-11-2010 Pazhavangady Ganapathy Kovil: Vinayaka Chathurthi - Chariot, Elephants & Percussion: 11-09-2010 Varkala Temple: Elephants, Percussion, Kavidi, Garu-

danthookkam & Other Art forms: 21-02-2010

Thrissur Guruvayur Temple: PALLIVETTA - procession, men disguised as animals & Birds: 06-03Kalamandalam Mahanavami Programme: Kathakali, art forms - full night: 16-10-2010 Guruvayur Sree Krishna Temple Elephants race at: Utsavam Kodiyettu: 26-02-2010 Thrissur Town: ELEPHANTS & Percussion: Thrissur POORAM (30 Hours): 24-042010

Wayanad Irulam Sitha Devi temple: Thira Vellattu - LAVA & KUSHA - Pulpally - 6 Days: 02-01-2010 Pazhoor Mahavishnu temple: THIRA, Kappuvayal: 09-032010 Veliyambam Kotta Siva temple: Disclaimer : In Kerala, festival THIRA-VELLATTU: 06-02-2010 dates are decided in accordance with the Malayalam calendar and the local traditions and customs. Festival dates have been calculated based on these. But there can be changes in the dates according the customs and rituals associated with each place of worship. As such, this should be considered only as an approximate calendar and the dates confirmed with the local authorities.

Content courtesy: Department of Tourism, Kerala Government.

winter ‘09 Go Kerala 77

Signing Off

Camera: Canon EOS 5D Mark II Lens: EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM Exposure: 0.4 Aperture: f/4.0 Focal Length: 24 mm ISO Speed: 100 Exposure Bias: -2/3 EV Flash: Off, Did not fire Exposure Program: Program AE Date and Time (Original): 2009:07:12 17:54:53.11+05:30 Date and Time (Digitized): 2009:07:12 17:54:53 Max Aperture Value: 4.0 Metering Mode: Multi-segment Sub Sec Time Original: 11 Sub Sec Time Digitized: 11 Custom Rendered: Normal Exposure Mode: Auto White Balance: Auto

78 Go Kerala winter ‘09

After a late lunch of freshly caught fish, I wondered around the ferry terminal and found this man sleeping next to the shuttered ticket booth.

Photographer: visual_entropy flick page: http://www.flickr.com/photos/visual_entropy/