Supper - Issue 1

Page 1

ISSUE 1

Simon Rogan

On the journey from L’Enclume in the Lakes to Fera at Claridges

On The Menu

The projects, people and products shaping the F&B world in the year ahead

Meeting Mr Lyan

Inside the bartending brain behind Dandelyan at the Mondrian




Creating Hospitality

AMARAH

The sense of origin!

Villeroy & Boch S.Ă .r.l. Hotel & Restaurant 330, rue de Rollingergrund 2441 Luxembourg Tel.: + (352) 46 82 11 Fax: + (352) 46 90 22 E-mail: info.hr@villeroy-boch.com www.villeroy-boch.com/hotel

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CONTENTS

Setting

SPECIALS

SIPPING

Entrée 021

Starters

Supper is served

Mr Porter

075

Artesian

135

Dinner By Heston Blumenthal

076

Café Grey Bar

138

Zetter Townhouse Marylebone

140

Cocktails

Appetizers 025

Theo Mio

078

Trends and concepts impacting the world of

Tonic & Remedy

080

global hotel F&B

The Thief Bar

082

Drinks

Marina Social

092

The Library Bar

142

The Printing Press Bar & Kitchen

094

The Changing Face of Malts

146

The Distillery

096

SERVICE

Main Course Cowley Manor

On the Menu: 2016

033

099

Soho House Chicago

102

Igniv

106

SIDES

Some of the projects and personalities to

Mirror Room

110

watch in 2016

Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée

114

To The Table

Kozue

118

Details on the F&B decision makers’ forum

Aulis at Fera

120

from Dubai and Singapore

Anatomy of a Table

048

161

The Puccini Group’s Shelia Turner and Kelly Kennedy explore how to curate an artful

Desserts

and functional table

Epicure

Simon Rogan

055

Petits Fours 122

The latest products and produce for the

The Drake

124

global hotel F&B industry

Céleste

126 Interview with Burkhard Schmidt

Simon Rogan on Fera at Claridge’s, farmto-table and forging relationships In Their Finery

How LA-based design agency Finery are

191

The director of Villeroy & Boch’s Hotel and

Tea & Coffee 060

169

Prêt-à-Portea

128

Restaurant Division on design, function and

The Rosebery Lounge

130

a rapidly changing market

Parcafé 132

elevating uniform design The Lyan of London

064

Bartender Mr Lyan, Ryan Chetiyawardana, on hotel ventures and innovation in the

SPREAD

drinks sector A View from the Top

068

Supper in the North

083

Restaurateur and entrepeneur Des

Our cover shoot for the first Supper

McDonald on new projects and the key to

is a sumptous feast of sharing plates,

successful hotel F&B

celebrating produce and products from the North of England

005






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Š2015. All rights reserved. STOLICHNAYA, STOLICHNAYA ELIT, ELIT, the associated logos, the bottle shape, SPI and SPI Globe device, are trademarks or registered trademarks or more generally intellectual property rights of SPI Group (incl. Spirits International B.V. and Spirits Product International Intellectual Property B.V.)



SPHERA & JADE SPHERA

Sambonet and Rosenthal in a blended collection www.hotel.rosenthal.de www.hotel.sambonet.it


Setting

“I don’t think bottled cocktails will take over completely in bars, but they are a great alternative method of delivery to engage guests.� Max Venning, operations manager for Drink Factory on the bottled cocktail movement.



ENTRée

To the Journey

A

s I write this it’s early morning and I’m suitably

of a great experience is now at the core of successful hotel

ensconced on a train carving its way through the

F&B. A prime example is The Library Bar at Tel Aviv’s elegant

frost-flecked Swiss countryside. The first issue of

boutique, The Norman. I first visited while Supper was still

Supper is ready to be served and as the peaks of the

the spark of an idea from people I had yet to meet. Nostalgic

Swiss Alps roll by I can’t help but ruminate on the nature of

ambience and contemporary attitude meet in its wood-

journeys - so central the notion is to our launch, our content

floored, book-strewn surroundings and every cocktail tells

and, of course, our future.

a tale. It was an experience that lingered and, importantly,

Global hotel F&B has been on a journey of its own in

saw me returning again and again. We spoke to the man

recent years. Previously a necessary service, but rarely an

responsible for the design, David d’Almada of Sagrada, for

experience, hotels have become increasingly attuned to the

this issue. He told us of the importance of creating a fully

power of considered, creative and collaborative F&B concepts.

realized concept and how, from the scent to the vintage

Operators, designers, consultants, chefs and bartenders are

glassware, “no stone was left unturned” in his efforts to

working together to create compelling propositions that

transport guests beyond the everyday. With hotel F&B now

appeal to guests, locals and a growing breed of lifestyle-savvy

such an experiential endeavour, the industry has to rise to

nomad. Supper is born out of this new dynamic. We chart the

meet growing expectations - not just in the grand sweep

evolving world of global hotel F&B and its many elements -

but also in the small details, be it the in-room coffee or the

examining the projects, personalities and products driving

breakfast offer.

the industry forward and exploring how these forces will help shape and sustain your business.

At Supper our journey is just beginning, but with much of the dialogue on hotel F&B concerned with the notion of

Our content is, of course, informed by journeys of a more

international relevance combined with local appeal, we explore

literal kind. We took to Artesian at The Langham London to

our roots in England’s North through a centerfold with design

sample the world-famous cocktails of a bar in transition;

agency 93. From the potteries of Stoke-on-Trent to the ‘Steel

Juliet Kinsman travelled Chicago-side for a rooftop dining

City’ of Sheffield, the region has historically held global

experience at Soho House, where the familiar brand vies for

significance as the home of tableware. It’s seeing a dramatic

attention in a neighbourhood on the up; and Dubai presented

resurgence as consumers the world over re-engage with

us with an elevated take on social eating and drinking at Jason

heritage brands – produced in Great Britain to travel the world.

Atherton’s aptly titled Marina Social, a demonstration that

Manchester, where you’ll find Supper HQ, may no longer be

sharing is most definitely caring.

famed for its cotton mills, but it is forging a confident path as

Crucially, however, it doesn’t take a plane, train or

a vibrant, modern city without losing touch with its industrial

automobile to be taken on a journey. When we think of the

past. This discourse between global and local; contemporary

contemporary guest experience it’s frequently defined by a

ideas and old traditions, is often at the heart of the hotel F&B

sense of storytelling, with tableware, design, service delivery

industry and we will continue to draw upon these themes as the

and food and drinks concepts working in tandem to convey a

sector increasingly evolves to remain relevant. So let’s raise a

carefully conceived narrative. The power and lasting impact

glass to the journey as we announce, Supper is served.

Harry McKinley | Editor

021


THE BRIGADE

Editorial

Advertising

Finance

Editor-in-Chief

Advertising Manager

Finance Director

Matt Turner

Rachel Chadwick

Amanda Giles

m.turner@mondiale.co.uk

r.chadwick@mondiale.co.uk

a.giles@mondiale.co.uk

Editor Harry McKinley

Marketing

h.mckinley@mondiale.co.uk

Contributors

Bethan Ryder Juliet Kinsman

Group Credit Contoller Lynette Levi l.levi@mondiale.co.uk

Brand Director

Group Financial Controller

Amy Wright

Sarah Miller

a.wright@mondiale.co.uk

s.miller@mondiale.co.uk

Design

Kelly Kennedy

Accounts Assistant Kerry Mountney k.mountney@mondiale.co.uk

Mark Newton Shelia Turner Design David Bell

Photographers

Addie Chinn

Corporate

d.bell@mondiale.co.uk

Production

Chairman

Zoe Willcox

Damian Walsh

z.willcox@mondiale.co.uk

d.walsh@mondiale.co.uk

Audrey Rotermund Eric Wolfinger Kate Le Sueur Mark Roper Michael Edwards Pierre Monetta

Brand concept and website designed

Richard Pereira

and developed by 93ft.com

Rick Poon Supper is printed by Buxton Press

Sivan Askayo

Supper Magazine, Strawberry Studios, Stockport, SK1 3AZ, UK Tel: +44 (0)161 476 5580 • www.suppermagazine.co.uk


A GLASS FOR EVERY OCCASION

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APPETIZERS

Room Service, To Go?

For many guests room service is seen as an assumed staple

select service hotels with a new breed of young, highly

of any hotel’s F&B offering, but the traditional model

mobile traveller is seeing the focus shift to the delivery of

is evolving like never before in response to the needs of

other ‘essential’ amenities like high-speed Wi-Fi and quick,

individual markets – with many hotels increasingly opting

effective service delivery.

out of the service altogether.

Even in the full-service sector, demands are changing. At a widely quoted 2015 NYU hospitality investment conference,

When the Hilton New York Midtown discontinued room

Hilton Worldwide CEO Christopher Nassetta proclaimed that

service in August 2013 it set the industry abuzz. As the largest

even though all full-service properties will have room service

hotel in the city with almost 2000 rooms, the move was seen

of one kind or another, “some will operate at limited hours

as a brave one by some, whilst others merely scratched their

and offer pre-packaged meals.”

heads and pondered what this meant for the future of food

Of course, the death knell is still far from sounding on

and drink services in the hotel sector. Just a month later and

in-room dining, but changing market conditions means

there was a partial turnaround, but not a full U-turn. Gone

that operators need to think more locally about consumer

was the silver cutlery and all-day service and in its place,

appetites and, if needs be, provide creative solutions –

deliveries in paper bags during breakfast and dinner hours.

whether that’s fine dining with linens and silver, brown

Fast forward a few years and what was a startling disruption is now a wide-ranging shift. The growth of

paper bags to go or even ordering with emoticons, as at Aloft Manhattan Downtown.

025


APPETIZERS

Got Beef?

18 months to two years is the typical age bracket during which

Its supplier, Txuleta, is one of the country’s only importers and

cattle take the last march to slaughter. So when we think of aged

business is booming. Founded by Nemanja Borjanovic and Melody

beef what we’re really imagining is meat that has been hung for

Adams - restaurateurs behind the Basque inspired Donostia

periods of up to 28 days, but an aged Spanish variety is turning

and Lurra - the couple first discovered the meat on a trip to Bar

this idea on its head as old cow becomes a new trend.

Nesta, a restaurant in San Sebastián hailed as a foodie’s Heaven. So impressed were they that they asked the owner for details of

At Chiltern Firehouse – the hip London hotel and restaurant

the producer. The only problem now is ensuring a ready supply of

frequented by a who’s who of international cool – Nuno Mendes

pensionable produce.

serves up a steak from cattle that are up to 14 years old. From

Many consumers, and indeed chefs, are still stuck on wagyu,

San Sebastián, most are retired dairy cows that have been put out

of course. But its prevailing popularity means it has become

to pasture and their advanced age, by bovine standards at least,

increasingly commoditized, with only a small percentage now

affords the meat a natural marbling and deeper flavour than your

originating in Japan. The Spanish alternative not only carries its

average slab.

own distinct flavour, but it’s significantly more cost effective. Per

There are two main varieties of senior Spanish cattle, the native Galician Blond and out-of-work dairy cows that are transported

026

kilo, the priciest cut can run at a quarter of the cost of the priciest wagyu. For now at least.

from across Europe to the Basque region. In the UK, a taste for the

With the UK an early international adopter, globally an eye for old

aged has grown so rapidly that Chiltern Firehouse is ordering 50

Spanish cows has yet to fully mature, but with the buzz around this

fillets of the blond per week.

particular beef growing exponentially, the secret is assuredly out.



APPETIZERS

Bottled It

Mixology has long been considered a ‘live’ art, with bartenders

Tony Conigliaro. “In hotels it’s a great way to put something

priding themselves on their circus-worthy throwing skills,

truly bespoke into the rooms. When the Zetter Clerkenwell in

their encyclopaedic memory and their ability to balance

London opened we put Martinis, Negronis and Manhattans in the

flavours on demand.

rooms. Guests just need to stir their drink down in the cocktail kit provided and it’s good to go.”

028

Whilst appropriate for the humble beer or even the highfalutin

With Diageo’s recent launch of the Studebaker range of

champagne, the thought of being served a premixed cocktail

bottled whisky cocktails, the 2015 launch of the UK’s first on-

from a bottle would, until recently, have been considered the

trade bottled cocktail collection and forays into the sector from

height of booze sacrilege – conjuring up memories of alcopops

the likes of Mr Lyan, winner of International Bartender of the

and foil-packaged margaritas. But in the world of hotel F&B,

Year, the movement is clearly driven by consumer demand. In

and in the drinks industry at large, the bottled cocktail is seeing

reacting to this trend hotels have an opportunity to diversify the

a confident resurgence with some bars using them as means to

in-room offer without impacting on bar revenues. “It’s never

facilitate a quicker, more efficient service.

going to replace sitting in the hotel bar but it adds a personal

“I don’t think bottled cocktails will take over completely

touch. The Ace Hotel in L.A. recently introduced them and it’s

in bars, but they are a great alternative method of delivery to

great after a day of work to get back, jump in the shower and

engage guests,” says Max Venning, operations manager for

then pour yourself a Negroni while getting ready for an evening

Drink Factory, a collective of bartenders founded in 2005 by

out,” Venning continues.



APPETIZERS

A Night Kip

“Hotels are increasingly bars and restaurants with rooms

seeing 40-50% of revenue coming from their food and beverage

attached,” announced interior architect Martin Brudnizki

operation alone,” he continued. “Dandelyan being voted one of

at Sleep 2015. A grand statement no doubt, but a sentiment

the world’s best cocktail bars has been great for Mondrian.”

that has been echoed by many an opinion former. Distilling

With restaurants with rooms a logical model in secluded

the notion even further, bars with rooms have been tipped to

locations, bars with rooms could soon be a much-vaunted

become a key driver of the hotel industry in 2016 with bums on

concept for urban locales. Rumours are rife that one popular

stools driving heads in beds according to Travel Market Report.

London cocktail venue was recently ready to take on a space that would allow it to expand its operations into accommodation,

030

Restaurants with rooms are already a well-established trend,

only to be beaten to it by one of the city’s most prominent

particularly in remote, rural locations such as Simon Rogan’s

restaurateurs.

L’Enclume or The Pig Hotels created by Robin Hutson, but the

The relative ease of developing bar space in urban areas is

impact of bars on the hotel sphere is now seeing an evolution

another factor in the growth of bars with rooms. Unused ‘grey

of this idea. The highly influential World’s 50 Best Bars, from

spaces’ are increasingly being adapted into profit-driving

Drinks International, is an indicator of the degree to which bars

facilities. Where plants and machinery would once have

in hotels are now seen as important drivers. The UK capital is a

been, rooftops and outdoor terraces have become sites for

particular leader in the field with Artesian, The American Bar

transformation into drinking spots and private event spaces

at The Savoy, the Connaught Bar and Dandelyan all making the

with lucrative potential.

cut. “We’ve seen an increase in resident guests,” says Daniel

Whether bars with rooms will proliferate to the extent of their

Pinental, F&B director for Mondrian London where Dandelyan

dining counterparts remains to be seen, but whilst F&B trends

continues to provide a pull. But it’s the impact of these venues

evolve, the desire for fully encompassing guest experiences that

on their respective hotels that is the most telling. “Hotels are

combine a nightcap with a bed for the night is surely set to grow.


SERVICE

“Sometimes it’s better to be consistently average than it is to have dramatic peaks and troughs in quality. It’s consistency that gives traction with customers.” Des McDonald



ON THE MENU

With notable openings from familiar faces, fresh concepts for established restaurants and first steps from some new kids on the block, we explore a few of the projects and personalities set to make waves over the coming year.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal at Crowne Melbourne Photography: Mark Roper


ON THE MENU

Feeling Social

Jason Atherton is one of the most prolific empire-builders in the contemporary restaurant scene. Currently engaged in a vigorous expansion drive, the British chef brought new hotel F&B venues to New York City and Dubai in 2015, opening The Clocktower at the New York Edition in May and Marina Social at the InterContinental Dubai Marina in September. Having spent his formative years working with the likes of Pierre Koffmann, Nico Ladenis and Marco Pierre White followed by almost a decade with the Gordon Ramsay Group – Atherton’s grounding in the F&B industry manifests itself in restaurants that buck trends and make them. His modern take on English ‘pub grub’, like fish and chips and steak, dominate the menu at The Clocktower, the latter served with a 13-inch stag horn knife. If it’s fine dining, it’s not the variety that has guests worrying about the odd wayward slop of sauce or clinking the glassware too loudly. This easy atmosphere is partly what informs the ‘social’ moniker of many of his restaurants. The Old Clare Hotel in Sydney hosts Atherton’s first red ribbon of 2016, with Kensington Street Social opening in January. Designed by Shanghai-based Neri & Hu, the 120-cover restaurant features many of the chef’s signature dishes, such as the English breakfast tea and toast, as well as new options taking advantage of regional ingredients. “I’ve had many Australian chefs in my brigade over the years, including my executive chef Rob [Daniels] and pastry chef Adrian Crabb, so it seemed like a natural step to come to Sydney and get the team back together,” said Atherton. www.kensingtonstreetsocial.com

034



ON THE MENU

The Pig

Robin Hutson has described the ethos of his Pig hotels as ‘giving guests what they really want’. And what they want, it would seem, is homegrown produce, relaxed surroundings and an air of affable approachability. With their ‘restaurants with rooms’ concept, The Pigs take the tried-and-tested formula of the country house hotel and put the emphasis on comfortable dining. Ingredients are plucked from the ground mere metres from where guests eat – a distilled take on farm-to-table where the garden is star. The homely surroundings, well conceived touchpoint and quintessential English charm has resonated with guests, ensuring The Pig group is still very much in ascendency. A fifth is slated to open in April 2016. Situated in a sleepy spot in the Devonshire countryside, the 33-key The Pig at Combe will feature a kitchen garden and restaurant, with local produce featuring prominently. Eight miles from the coast, fresh fish will be delivered frequently, while Devonshire cheese and locally reared meat will gurantee guests an authentic

taste of the

county. “Demand has been very high for the existing properties and our guests want more Pigs, in more locations, so we are thrilled to be adding a very special place in such a wonderful location,” said Hutson. “We know our clientele will love The Pig at Combe.” www.thepighotel.com

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Photography: Michael Edwards


ON THE MENU

Nomadic Noma

Noma has long been an influential force in global F&B. The Copenhagen institution, famed for its adventurous cuisine and anxiety-inducing waiting lists, may predominantly operate as a standalone but its impact has reverberated through the hotel sphere. In 2012 Noma set up shop at Claridge’s during the London Olympic Games and when René Redzepi and his team decamped to Tokyo at the start of 2015, they found their home on the 37th floor of the Mandarin Oriental. 14 different artisans worked to create the tableware and an impressive 60,000 names ended up on the waiting list. Those fortunate enough to nab a reservation enjoyed ‘live’ shrimp and ants – the unconventional menu serving as perfect fodder for newspaper headlines and column inches. 2016 sees the restaurant - and the concept driving it evolve more permanently. Following a month-long stint Down Under (comfortably sold out in 5 minutes) in Sydney’s Barangaroo neighbourhood, the restaurant will be gearing up for its closure and subsequent reopening as an urban farm on the outskirts of Copenhagen’s Christiania. “It makes sense to have your own farm, as a restaurant of this calibre,” Redzepi told the New York Times. Credited with spearheading the ‘New Nordic’ food movement, which sees a focus on simplicity and seasonality, where Noma leads, more often than not the F&B industry follows. The focus on farm-to-table and the centring of the restaurant’s concept on homegrown ingredients echoes a broader shift for the restaurant trade in the same direction. Expect the idea to be adopted en masse as independents and hotel restaurants alike are swept along by the Noma Effect. www.noma.dk


ON THE MENU

CUT by Wolfgang Puck, Four Seasons Bahrain Bay

Making the CUT Wolfgang Puck’s CUT chain has become a mainstay of

to the ‘F’ in F&B, what is more universal than a steak?

international hotel F&B. From LA’s Beverly Wilshire to

In 2016 Puck takes CUT to NYC, a city with no shortage

Marina Bay Sands in Singapore - via hotel locations in

of steakhouses and one where customers understand

Las Vegas, London, Bahrain and Dubai – the modern

the perfect sear. Scheduled to open mid-2016 at Four

steakhouse concept has proved a worldwide success,

Seasons New York Downtown, the new restaurant marks

translating effortlessly to varied global markets.

the continuation of a longstanding relationship between

Capitalising on the mood for quality dining without the pomp, the restaurant chain uses refined design

the chef and the hotel group and will bring the number of CUTs worldwide to a possibly lucky seven.

and concise menu concepts to create an ambience that appeals to a broad audience. After all, when it comes

040

www.wolfgangpuck.com


Purity – a new class of porcelain Bauscher reinvents porcelain anew. Purity is pure elegance in the subtle exclusive BoneWhite color. This new favorite at the very best international addresses is a confident choice for a range of different tabletop settings. The collection’s delicate gracefulness is due to its revolutionary material Noble China. Exquisite patterns underline the interplay of soft lines and the purist shapes.

• Delicate, thin-glaze body, made from revolutionary hard porcelain Noble China • Classy new color: BoneWhite • Highest chip resistance that sets new standards • Extraordinary glaze hardness • Dishwasher-proof in-glaze decorations • Unsurpassed quality Made in Germany • Extensive range, offering numerous multifunctional combinations • Excellent performance in all kinds of tabletop settings

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ON THE MENU

Photography: Eric Wolfinger

East Meets South With its Spanish speaking majority, Miami can

international travellers and is frequently touted as

sometimes feel like a vibrant enclave of Latin America

one of the World’s best beach restaurants. Head chef

- Hispanic culture threaded through the fabric of the

Alejandro Morales will bring several of his signature

city. With EAST Miami, the first hotel from Swire Hotels

dishes - heavily influenced by the roots of owners

outside Hong Kong and China, the spirit of South

Martín Pittaluga, Gustavo Barbero and Guzmán

America will be transported to the south of America

Artagaveytia - north of the Equator for the opening

with Quinto La Huella.

of the Miami progeny. “It was absolutely clear that

A collaboration with Uruguayan restaurant Parador

this was one of the most outstanding restaurants in

La Huella, the interiors will be designed by Los Angeles-

South America. Having met the team we knew they’d

based Studio Collective and will capture a laidback

be the perfect partner in Miami,” says Brian Williams,

Latin style with nods to the urban surroundings.

managing director of Swire Hotels.

Parador La Huella, situated in the fashionable resort town of Jose Ignacio, has long been popular with

042

www.east-miami.com



ON THE MENU

A Capitol Idea The first quarter of 2016 will see guests stepping

in cocktails featuring pisco, the South American

into Peru at Patina Capitol Singapore’s new F&B

nation’s viscous amber brandy, once named the

destinations. With an interior from New York firm

‘best liquor in the world’ at the Concours Mondial

AvroKO, ERU restaurant is set to provide an intriguing

de Bruxelles. Here guests will enjoy cocktails

proposition, with Amazonian flavours and a dynamic

and

design featuring an open kitchen and mix of public

with DJs spinning tracks into the wee hours.

cuisine

in

high-octane

and private dining spaces. A one-of-a-kind ceviche

Rounding out the experience, a dedicated chocolatier,

bar will meet a Japanese inspired Peruvian menu,

PURE & Co., will provide Peruvian chocolates, artfully

reflecting the long lineage of Japanese food found in

packaged in classically printed paper for guests and gifts.

the country. At ERUBAR, the taste of Peru is brought to life

044

surroundings,

www.patinahotels.com/singapore


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Anatomy of a Table:

How to Curate an Artful and Functional Table

A well-designed tabletop can be the difference between a seamless meal and a not-so-memorable one. It’s not just about aesthetics: cost-effectiveness, scalability, practicality and presentation are just a few of the factors that determine a tabletop’s strength. Puccini Group - the San Francisco-based interior design and concepts firm - knows the secret to crafting a harmonious table. Here, Shelia Turner and Kelly Kennedy (Puccini Group’s Vice Presidents of Operations and Concepts) share insights and advice for setting a beautifully designed and fully functional table.


SERVICE

Photography: Audrey Rotermund Location: Farm:Table, San Francisco, USA www.audreyrotermund.com


SERVICE

The Chef’s Canvas

Do all of the items truly look like they belong

SHELIA TURNER: Start with the menu as

on the table together and at home in that

inspiration, then look at the interior design

particular concept and restaurant? You also

and marketplace trends to develop the tabletop

want to ensure all items used during the meal

around the concept. We go to the chef and the

service physically fit together on the table. Very

on-site operations team to gauge the usability

large plates or too many accessories are best

of the items. We’ll ask, “Can you use this? Is

to avoid.

this the right wooden board or the right soup cup?”

Glassware: Durability is Key ST: I was at a restaurant in Chicago in which

KELLY KENNEDY: It’s difficult to design

the stem of each wineglass was probably four

a tabletop without the menu. It not only

inches tall and quite slender. On top of that,

determines how many small plates or large

the space had marble tabletops. Each time

plates you’ll need, but also shapes the aesthetic.

you set your glass down, you’d think it was

Every chef has their own ideas. The plate or

about to break. Unless you’re a very fine dining

bowl - whatever the vehicle is for delivering

operation, choose something that’s durable

the food - serves as that chef’s canvas. How do

and the correct number of ounces.

they want to showcase their dishes? Linens & Flowers Colour & Interior Design Context

ST: The trend is currently to forgo tablecloths.

KK: White is always a great place to start

This creates a rustic, casual feeling, while

and allows the food to shine. Then you

saving money and creating efficiencies. For

can incorporate accent pieces - salt and

napkins, I prefer a natural fibre like cotton. If

peppershakers, bread and butter plates - to add

it’s essential to use polyester, a cotton blend is

interest. Of course, budget is always a deciding

best. It’ll have a nice feel to it, but still hold up.

factor; those colourful pieces are usually more expensive. If a restaurant has gold or silver

KK: For the past few years, flowers seemed

elements, we may use those tones as tabletop

to be on their way out. They’re costly for a

accents, ensuring the tabletop fits the formality

restaurant to properly maintain. It’s rare

of the establishment - that it’s the appropriate

these days to walk into a space and see ornate

degree of rustic or polished.

arrangements, though I’ve been to a few cities that are exceptions, like Jakarta and Istanbul.

Durability & Heft

Recently, I’ve seen more sustainable iterations

ST: Durability and the question of how items

of the flower arrangement returning to the

wear over time are vital. The staff also have to

table, like potted succulents.

be properly trained in the care and storage of the investment. Heft also comes into play. Take

Trends on the Table

silverware, for example: you wouldn’t want

KK: Trends in tabletop decor today are global.

to pick up a piece that weighs two ounces. It

With social media and cooking shows, good

wouldn’t feel substantial or high quality. But if

design spreads like wildfire. We’re almost to

an item is too heavy, it’s difficult for a server

the point where you could be in any popular

to carry multiples.

restaurant around the world and lose sight of what city you’re in.

Investing to Make Impact KK: The items that stay on the table the

ST: Earthenware, no tablecloths, succulents

longest are usually where to spend more: salt

and bistro napkins are just a few trends we’ve

and pepper shakers, votives, the water carafe.

been seeing everywhere lately. But it’s best not

It’s about making a positive first impression.

to chase trends at the expense of long-term

I always love a good cheque presenter to

satisfaction. That’s a big part of what we do

complete the experience.

here at Puccini Group: we steer our clients away from fleeting trends and toward timeless,

Consistency, Composition & Size

tasteful designs.

ST: It’s important to look at the complete table setting when all of the items are on the table. Is there some consistency with colour and shape?

050

www.puccinigroup.com



DOUBLE MOOD.indd 1


26/11/15 17:56



SERVICE

Simon Rogan

S

imon Rogan opened L’Enclume in Cartmel, Cumbria in 2002. Voted the Best Restaurant in the UK by the Good Food Guide in 2014, it has held two Michelin stars since 2012. In June 2011 he opened Roganic, a two-year pop-

up restaurant in Marylebone in London. In March 2013 he relaunched The French at the Midland Hotel in Manchester, where, in September of the same year, he opened the more casual Mr Cooper’s House & Garden. In May 2014 he opened in London with Fera at Claridge’s, which quickly gained a Michelin star. In December 2015 he added Aulis, a test kitchen and private dining room, to his Claridge’s operation. On launching Fera… “The first year was pretty tough. There was a lot of hype and a lot of expectations ahead of opening. There were quite a few people that came in and wanted to see it fall flat on its face. There was a lot of lazy journalism, with people comparing it to L’Enclume and saying ‘Don’t go to Fera, go to L’Enclume because it’s better’. Well of course it was better, I’d put my heart and soul into L’Enclume over a number of years and this is a new project. L’Enclume is a tiny, highly specialised dreamy little place where people are going to be engrossed in what they are eating. When we started at Claridge’s it became clear that the dream of 120 people having tasting menus was never going to happen and that we needed to have a really strong a la carte. This is a different product for a different audience with a different feeling, although the essence of our principles is still there in things like the ingredients we use.”


SERVICE

Fera at Claridge’s, London

On the challenges of opening in Claridge’s…

required and the standards that are needed. You

now need to have to offer an amazing product,

“There are the numbers – I’ve never done

get a lot of ‘I didn’t really sign up for this’. Our

the right pay and a good quality of life. You’re

numbers like this or been in control of so many

team of over 40 chefs was quickly whittled down

only as good as the people that work around

staff before, so it was always going to take a

to around 20 – which for a 7-day operation,

you.”

bit of time to bed down. There’s nothing that

365-days-a-year, meant that we struggled

can prepare you for an opening of this size, in

for a while. This restaurant never shuts down

On his experience of providing accommodation

Mayfair, in a hotel as famous as this.

because of the hotel. It’s taken a while to build

at L’Enclume…

Any new opening is tough regardless of where

the right team and now we’re almost up to full

“We started off with seven rooms, ended up

it is but somewhere as prestigious as this was

strength. Now we can feel the consistency and

with 18 at one stage and then we pulled it back

– and is – a special situation. It’s taken a while

the atmosphere improving. The people that

slightly by making smaller rooms bigger, so now

to get to where we want because of the size of

work with us now really want to be here and

we have 16. We could do with a few more rooms

the place. It is a huge operation not just a little

feel privileged to be here. Once you get that into

but that number works for us. We’re small scale

60-cover restaurant like L’Enclume with 18

the kitchen, there’s nothing you can’t achieve.”

and only have to look after a few guests but that

chefs in the kitchen, where if one goes we just get

experience has helped me appreciate a lot more

another one in. We’re doing 100 to 150 covers,

On how kitchens are changing…

what’s required at hotels like Claridge’s, where

which is a lot for the kind of product that we’re

“A year in at Fera we made a few decisions about

they have around 200 rooms, and the Midland,

trying to deliver.

the way that we structured the kitchen; going

where they have more than 300.”

down to a four-day week and getting the right

056

On assembling the right team…

team in place to operate that system to make

On adjusting to working with hotels…

“When you open you build a team that you think

sure that we had a happy motivated team. For

“The main difference is that I’m not the sole

is going to do the job and it doesn’t always work

a long time the financial implications have held

decision maker. At L’Enclume if we decide we

out the way you want it to. At Fera we didn’t have

chefs back from making those changes. Now

want something, we just get on with it and

quite the right team in place when we opened.

we’re starting to realise that you need to spend a

we move quickly. We normally make the right

A lot of people are sold by the romantic notion

little bit more to get the best out of people. Young

decision, but we have made a few naff decisions

of being involved in a project like this and think

chefs used to work their arses off for very little to

that we’ve learnt from. Whether it’s furniture

everything is going to be beautiful. Then reality

learn from the best chefs to produce an amazing

we’ve bought or the colour we’ve painted a room.

sets in and they realise the hard work that’s

product – but that’s not enough anymore. You

Working with hotels things move at a slower


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SERVICE

The French, The Midland Hotel Manchester

pace and sometimes you feel like you’re having

On his Cartmel Valley farm…

hours later I decided it was a brilliant idea. It

a meeting, about a meeting, about a meeting

“The farm is a money pit. We’ve got 13 acres

was a low-risk £50K investment and we got two

but generally you get the best result in the end.

and we’re now utilising all of it, which wasn’t

years out of it in the end. That funny little place

People often see procedure as a negative thing

the case at the beginning. We rent the land but

now has a legendary status.”

but working with hotels has definitely rubbed off

we constantly have to upgrade the infrastructure

on me and I have grown as a businessman. My

to get the most out of it. The more polytunnels

On restructuring the way he works…

company is now better run and more profitable

we put in, the more electricity we need and the

“I’ve now got a strong development team

as a result.”

more water we need. It’s a constant learning

behind me working on menu development

experience but we can’t ever stop. We need to

across the four restaurants. They’re not directly

On how his hotel deals are structured…

keep it going because the farm - and using the

connected to the day-to-day running of any of

“Although they are very different hotels in

produce from it - has become our thing. There’s

the restaurants, they’re just coming up with new

different cities, in many ways the basic set up is

this constant investment going on behind the

dishes and ideas, which takes a lot of pressure

identical. The Midland is a busy city centre hotel,

scenes and working with the Midland and

off me and frees my mind.”

it’s more of a business hotel and Claridge’s is

Claridge’s is what pays for it. The money I earn

about world-class luxury at a famous address. It’s

is not going into my pocket.”

demanding working with two different brands

058

On being star-struck… “The clientele at Claridge’s are amazing. The

and two different management companies but

On first popping-up in London…

people that I’ve had through the door that

I’m really thankful and lucky that I’m working

“Roganic gave us a shop window in London and

have walked through that kitchen and shook

with two great General Managers. Both are a

gave us an idea of how well we could be received.

my hand… I don’t really get star-struck but to

partnership between the respective hotel and my

We were looking for a permanent London location

have Liam Gallagher in the kitchen having a

management company, so they employ all the

and the estate agent showed us the site and said,

crack at me was a special moment. He had the

staff, deal with the HR, the capital expenditure

‘you can come in with no premium and low rent.

works, the full tasting menu. He’s a right foodie.

and, along with a salary, I am rewarded by

Do you fancy it for a year?’ At the beginning I

In Manchester we get a lot of soap stars and

results and profit margins.”

wasn’t sure about it. But I thought about it on

footballers. The celebrity thing is new to me, we

the train back from London to Cartmel and three

don’t really get many at L’Enclume.”


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In their Finery We explore how LA based uniform design agency Finery are elevating the functional and demonstrating that utility and style can go seam in seam.

Words: Harry McKinley

E

very detail matters,” says Min Young

School of Design. But in the shifting world of

Lee, one half of the duo that comprise

contemporary hotel F&B, Finery is far from a

uniform design agency Finery. “When

purely creative endeavour, it also makes sound

you’re walking into a space in which

commercial sense. “Clients are often happy to

you’ll spend a substantial amount of money on

spend millions on architecture but are not used

dinner or drinks, you want the staff to look as

to investing in uniforms,” explains Lee. “You

fashionable as that space.” Greg Sato, the other

might have a well-known chef or bartender,

half of the company, nods. Of course he would,

expertly chosen decor and architecturally

she’s right. “Guests don’t only want great food

interesting buildings that are deliberately

or drink, but an entire experience,” he says.

lit and soundtracked to complement a very

“They want a fully curated outing where every

defined vision, but if the staff don’t reflect that

moment is a reflection of their expectations.”

vision you’ve lost a moment of the experience

Huddled around a coffee table in LA, Sato

and the impact of that is subtle but definite.”

and Lee have come together to talk to us

objectives: style, function and durability. This

their company is doing to turn the tide on

trifecta allows the company to balance what

uninspired homogeny. Through Finery they

may previously have been seen as competing

work with a number of destination hotels and

priorities in the traditional uniform trade.

their rapidly expanding business specialises in

“What gave birth to Finery, and continues

high quality, bespoke designs.

to set it apart from its peers, is being able to

Both Sato and Lee channel a certain creative

060

Finery’s work revolves around three distinct

about the importance of uniforms and what

meet a need in the industry that demands

vibe, which is to be expected - Sato previously

a staff uniform that can balance aesthetics

worked in marketing for Levi’s, whilst Lee

with practicality,” says Sato. “We like to ask

studied fashion design at New York’s Parsons

ourselves if the pieces we are designing are


SERVICE

CafĂŠ No Se uniform at South Congress Hotel, courtesy of Kate Le Sueur Photography


POT uniform at The Line Hotel, courtesy of Rick Poon

something we would wear outside of work.

Angeles or Café No Se at The South Congress

are sustained by locals.” And ultimately these

If we can answer yes, then we feel confident

in Austin, Texas, may feel particular to their

locals demand an experience attuned to their

that stylistically we’ve achieved a look that

locations but the principles adopted work as

city, their neighbourhood and, indeed, their

goes beyond the traditional uniform. Yet

well for a large hotel chain as a hip boutique.

street. Sato and Lee argue that’s it’s possible

understanding the key ‘non-negotiables’ in

“For a hotel chain with multiple locations

to create a brand identity through uniform that

uniforms is a major factor. Pieces have to be

globally, we would find commonalities in

feels globally consistent but adaptable enough

able to withstand real work and industrial

trousers and basic shirting for some of the

to be tailored on a region-by-region basis. It’s

washing machines; spilled drinks and stray

lesser visible positions,” says Sato. “Similar

a philosophy being adopted by hotel F&B at

food; running, hustling and bending over.”

silhouettes would also be used to keep a

large. Hotels are getting savvy to the benefits

consistent look and feel across properties.

of local thinking and, even when staying at

much the same way as any creative agency,

It would then be an exercise in colours,

a chain, the hotel breakfast in Beijing is no

examining the myriad other strands of a whole

fabrications, washes, prints, linings and other

longer a carbon copy of the breakfast in Buenos

and creating an element that feels distinct

nuanced details that bring out and highlight

Aires, such is the new dynamic of global

but cohesive. “We approach uniforms as an

the local flavour of each particular hotel.”

traveller and local guest. Finery’s raison d’être

extension of the overall concept,” explains

Both stress the importance of including

Lee. “We look at renderings, mood boards,

regional touches as opposed to opting for a

architectural plans, concept decks and brand

generic look, regardless of the hotel group

experience weren’t enough to convince us of

packages to inform our design direction. But

or its size. It’s a sentiment that may surprise

the power of well-conceived threads, Sato and

really success is in the details. It could be

many operators and yet their reasoning is

Lee fire an irrefutable parting shot. “A well-

looking at the motif on a plate and translating

informed by one of the most significant F&B

designed uniform makes staff members feel

that into a beautiful lapel pin, for example,

trends to impact the hotel sector: hyper-

a part of a larger team, a bigger mission and

custom-made for the hotel.” It’s an approach

localisation. “It’s not just about the city

a family away from home. It is our firm belief

that is, importantly, scalable.

anymore, but the neighbourhood, the street

that the way you dress dictates how you feel. If

even,” says Sato. “As much as hotels are driven

you look good, you feel good, and you will do

by tourism, more and more the F&B outlets

good work.”

As for the design process, Finery works in

Their work with hotel F&B spaces such as Roy Choi’s POT at The Line Hotel in Los

062

is translating this idea into uniform design. Of course if market trends and guest



SERVICE

The Lyan of London Ryan Chetiyawardana, or the nattily nicknamed Mr Lyan, is one of the most prominent bartenders today. We pulled up a stool to discuss concepts, creative control and challenging the status quo.

Words: Harry McKinley

M

r Lyan is one of mixology’s disruptors. When

sipping stylised cocktails inside and visitors with selfie

he opened White Lyan in London’s Shoreditch

sticks and shopping bags outside is marked.

in 2013 he adopted a revolutionary philosophy

introduced to Alan Philips, the previous CMO of Morgans

bar in the world to do so. Imagine, no fruit and no ice. Not

Hotel Group, by a friend who thought we’d get along. We

only was the amount of waste dramatically reduced but it

talked about our creative visions and what we want to

also forced Mr Lyan and his staff to think unconventionally.

achieve in life. It was a lengthy discussion and by the end

The emphasis was now on freshness, creativity and fast,

we’d decided it would be great to collaborate.”

effective service. In the following years his reputation has

064

“This came about quite organically,” Lyan tells us. “I was

and banished perishables - the first cocktail

It’s a collaboration that has proved successful. Dandelyan

grown, along with interest in his methods, and in an effort

has already had numerous accolades heaped upon it,

to introduce innovation the hotel industry has drawn him in.

including picking up ‘Best New International Cocktail Bar’

It’s an unseasonably warm day in London when we meet.

at the Spirited Awards and being shortlisted for an interior

His bar, Dandelyan at Mondrian, is busy as punters grapple

design gong at the European Hotel Design Awards. “I met

for a window seat and a view of the tourists shuffling along

Tom [Dixon] very early on. I had so many ideas in my head

the Southbank. At a time when many new destination

that I wanted to see realised in a bar that just fit Tom’s

hotel bars sit on rooftops and offer the ‘wow’ view, there’s

vision for the building. It dovetailed nicely,” Lyan explains.

an immediacy to Dandelyan’s ground floor location and

“It was a big leap of faith for Morgans Hotel Group to

proximity to the pavement, which sits just on the other side

partner with a smaller company that does things in a very

of floor-to-ceiling windows. It’s prime people-watching

different way. But despite the difference in size, there’s

territory and the counterpoint between well-dressed guests

a shared ethos. It’s a hotel group that’s geared towards


Mr Lyan pictured at Dandelyan at Mondrian, London.


SERVICE

A Place Between the Pines at Dandelyan. Beefeater London Garden, pine cordial, lemon, fino and Martini Extra Dry

creative people and there’s an excitement

product offering and setting and into service

it’s hard to imagine how the Mr Lyan brand

to this bar. It serves drinks that no one else

culture and guest experience. The growing

could be translated into anything other than

serves. It feels very ‘neighbourhood’, but in

popularity of relaxed experiences versus

a living, breathing public space. But as with

this beautiful setting. London does the classic

formal ones is something that is precipitating

many of his peers, he is following the path

hotel bar very well, but this isn’t one of those.

a shift in the global hotel F&B industry and it’s

so traditionally carved by celebrity chefs and

It’s an alternative.”

something that Mr Lyan is acutely attuned to.

expanding into the retail sphere, with a line of

It many ways it’s Mr Lyan’s propensity for

“Luxury doesn’t need to be opulence. There

ready-made cocktails. Commercial enterprise

breaking the mould and his understanding of

has been a big movement, especially in fine

aside, it’s an idea that stems from a desire to,

the modern guest that have come together to

dining, away from the white gloves, the white

“get people drinking better at home and to talk

create such a dynamic venue. “I think the idea

linen and the fifteen staff per course. Those

to a wider audience and on a much broader

of being all things to all people is something

principles are changing and people are looking

scale.” It’s a desire that has put him on the

that needs to be let go of. You have many

for a different value set,” he explains. “For me,

shelves of Selfridges, no less. His book - Good

different clients passing through a hotel and

guests having fun was what it was all about

Things to Drink with Mr Lyan and Friends - is

you need to be able to cater to them, but that

and this became something of a catchphrase of

also garnering rave reviews.

doesn’t mean having everything under the sun.

the industry, but nothing was really set up to

You end up with a wide reaching but mediocre

focus on that aspect. People would wait half an

encompasses both hotel and independent

effort. Instead, know what you’re good at and

hour for a drink. There was a little arrogance

bars and a range of consumer retail products,

be proud of that. It’s genuine and that’s what

on the bartender’s side. That doesn’t connect

to what does he credit his success? “We’ve

people are receptive to now. Here we wanted

with having a good time and so it’s important

always tried to do things differently. There

to show that there are other ways of making

that every element aligns. A good bartender

are amazing bars out there. We don’t need to

cocktails and of operating in the industry

checks the lighting, they watch for the water on

replicate what they’re doing. I’ve drawn on my

without following the norms so dogmatically.”

the table and they orchestrate the whole space.”

background and collaborated with others and

Indeed when one thinks of the ‘norms’ of the industry they extend beyond simply the

066

With an Iberico Sour in hand, a window seat and a view across the now packed Dandelyan

So with an expanding empire that now

put something forward that feels authentic. It’s strange in places but, I hope, exciting.”



SERVICE

A View from the Top Restaurateur, entrepreneur and driving force in F&B, we speak to Des McDonald about new projects and an evolving hotel industry.

Words: Harry McKinley

D

es McDonald’s understanding of the F&B industry

they also like being in a space that feels independent and

runs deep. From serving as head chef of The Ivy

which isn’t homogenised within the hotel as a whole.”

and developing his own restaurants to ultimately setting up an F&B consultancy, he’s now working

with Starwood Capital on a new brand of city centre urban

& Co, as part of the historic George Hotel in Edinburgh,

lifestyle hotels as part of the enigmatic Project 1898.

and Refectory and Chapter House at The Royal York. “The

We’re sitting in Forest, an autumnal pop-up, on the

068

Among the F&B outlets already opened as part of his work with Starwood Capital are The Printing Press and Burr

client’s brief for The George was a great, all-day brasserie

roof of Selfridges. There’s no hotel connection of course,

and bar. Spaces that echo the energy of the street,”

and yet the Des McDonald hallmarks are inextricable

McDonald explains. “During our research with the brand

from those we see in his work in hotel F&B. An express

team we discovered that there had originally been a printing

elevator whisks you direct from ground and is the

press in that location, dating back to the 1720s. So it was

equivalent of that ‘all-important’ separate entrance,

easy and interesting to start looking at those individual

something McDonald describes as a ‘primary detail’. “If

townhouses as they were back then and to draw inspiration

you imagine the restaurant as a square box in a hotel,

from that heritage. But, for me, the interesting thing was to

sometimes it’s positioned where you have to walk through

create a standalone café space in Burr & Co. We collaborated

the lobby. I think that weakens the opportunity to create

with Caravan Coffee in London and worked with my

an independent space. Consumers want to be in beautiful

branding team Plus Agency to come up with a concept. The

hotels but, when it comes to eating and drinking venues,

DNA is something that will be used in other hotels.”



SERVICE

Chapter House Bar & Refectory at The Royal York Hotel. Designed by Michaelis Boyd Architects.

By working on a combination of independent ventures and hotel collaborations, McDonald is able to thread the same ideas through both. In doing so the line between standalone restaurants and bars, and those in hotels, becomes increasingly blurred.

that he’s a revolutionary, simply more open to changing the conventions that many see as immovable tenets of the industry. The hotel breakfast, for example: “Well it’s traditionally a loss leader. Certainly in the major cities, you’re seeing guests pre-ordering their flat white and muffin from reception, which is a lovely offer. There are so many different opportunities and, if it’s available on the high street, it has to be available in the hotel otherwise guests will get up, have a shower, walk out the door and

McDonald’s understanding of consumer habits - balanced

pick up breakfast on the way to the station. You’ve got to

with his understanding of the commercial and design

be relevant. It’s not just about what’s going on in your

realities of the hospitality industry - is what informs his

hotel bar and restaurant, it’s about what’s happening on

projects and he’s a firm believer in ensuring F&B stays in

the high street.”

the hands of those who make it their focus. “Let’s face

and hotel collaborations, McDonald is able to thread

represent very different skills,” he says. “They can be

the same ideas through both. In doing so the line

commensurate depending on the partnership and what you

between standalone restaurants and bars, and those in

want to achieve, but brasseries and bars, for example, are

hotels, becomes increasingly blurred. “I think it’s about

what I do.”

atmosphere and affordability,” says McDonald, on the

Of course F&B is McDonald’s bread and butter, so to

070

By working on a combination of independent ventures

it, every hotelier will agree with a restaurateur that they

move by hotels to embrace a more casual approach versus

speak, and he talks with an easy familiarity about the

exclusively fine dining. “There’s still a place for both,

shifts in the sector and how global hotel F&B is evolving

but a brasserie affords people the opportunity to eat out

to meet the changes in how we live today. It’s not so much

a few times a week, whereas you might not want to sit


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SERVICE

Chapter House Bar & Refectory at The Royal York Hotel. Designed by Michaelis Boyd Architects.

and regularly eat haute cuisine.” It’s one of the most

perspective has brought him prolific success. “My only

discernable shifts in the traditional hotel F&B experience

advice to anyone in hotel F&B is, be consistent,” he says

and one that McDonald sees as an opportunity to be seized

when probed on what drives effective F&B concepts, “even

upon by a newer generation of restaurateurs who may

if you’re consistently average. Sometimes it’s better to

not be presenting a fine dining concept. “Property is so

be consistently average than it is to have dramatic peaks

expensive in the independent market,” he explains. “It’s

and troughs in quality. It’s consistency that gives traction with customers. Be it a restaurant or bar, a concept has to deliver what it says on the tin. Consumers are incredibly

“Sometimes it’s better to be consistently average than it is to have dramatic peaks and troughs in quality. It’s consistency that gives traction with customers.”

in tune with what they’re eating, what they’re drinking and what they’re buying. I don’t think there’s room for complacency anymore.” 2016 brings a host of new hotel F&B projects for McDonald. Rofuto on the 16th floor of the upcoming Park Regis in Birmingham promises 8000sqft of ‘Asian funk’,

more cost effective to have work out in the market through

with theatre kitchen, sake cocktail lounge and – of course

a hotel agreement, rather than signing up to a horrendous

– its own express lift. His home-grown brand Vintage Salt

premium lease in a city centre. It’s an interesting channel

has been expanded into a steakhouse and will open in Amba

for younger guys to come to the table with interesting

hotels across the British capital. As for the new city hotel

propositions and for owners of hotels to support the up

group from Starwood Capital to launch in spring 2016,

and coming.”

McDonald isn’t saying too much just yet, “I love working in

As we sit in a Des McDonald restaurant discussing other Des McDonald restaurants, what’s clear is that his

072

great buildings, in great locations and that’s what Starwood offer. I’m excited about the journey with them.”


Specials

“I want to bring people together around the table, to get them eating together, speaking to each other, sharing ideas while enjoying some of the same dishes. We can philosophise about ideas, but it’s the experience that counts.” Andreas Caminada on his new restaurant Igniv at Grand Resort Bad Ragaz.



STARTERS xxx

Mr Porter W Amsterdam

Located atop the newly opened W Amsterdam, Mr Porter is described as

is operated by The Entourage Group. Through its work with established

‘a constant battle of extremes.’ Its crisp interior, designed by architects

standalones like MOMO and Shirkhan it brings an affinity for modern

Baranowitz and Kronenberg, eschews the traditional notion of a steakhouse

hospitality, with an understated approach to fine dining and a propensity

and forgoes dense design in favour of sweeping contemporary lines and

for minimalism. It’s a style evidenced in the unfussy tabletop, where

open views across the Dutch capital.

breadsticks provide the only centerpiece and plates come in variations

With a relaxed lounge area, a larger formal seating zone and a classic

of white.

bar, the restaurant fuses subtly delineated spaces to provide varying guest

As for the menu, like any steakhouse, meat is the star. So much so it’s

experiences. In the ‘lounge’ diners can pull up a stool and nestle around a

broken down into sections including ‘Meat’ and ‘More Meat’. Providing

feature centre fireplace - with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out onto

diners haven’t partaken too heavily of the breadsticks, there’s a wide

the roof terrace - whilst the traditional table service mixes window-view

selection, from the obligatory Japanese wagyu to the unpretentious

seating with curved booths. An open kitchen adds a heightened sense of

hanger steak.

ambience throughout. Like The Duchess, W Amsterdam’s second flagship restaurant, Mr Porter

www.mrportersteakhouse.com

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Photography: Mark Roper

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Crown Towers Melbourne

His first restaurant outside of the UK, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

theme, a mechanical piece by Robert Higgs takes prime position in the centre

occupies the space formerly taken by The Fat Duck’s six month Melbourne

of the space, a celebration of the watchmakers of Greenwich who created

sojourn. With views of the city skyline and Yarra River, the 120-cover venue

the mechanical pulley system for the Royal Courts of England spit roasts.

sits on the third floor of the Crown Towers Melbourne and features an interior from Australian firm Bates Smart. A 20 metre dark wood corridor forms the entrance for guests, with its own specially designed aroma based on notes of damp moss, wood smoke and

For the menu concept, chefs worked with food historian Ivan Day, fusing references from the kitchens of King Henry VIII at Hampton Court Palace with prime Australian ingredients. Guests are offered a view into an open kitchen, where state-of-the-art meets historic pulley spit roasts.

leather. As with the Adam Tihany designed restaurant at London’s Mandarin

The bar, reserved exclusively for restaurant guests, is a collaboration

Oriental, the interior draws on the historic British menu concept with Tudor

with Tony Conigliaro and takes an elevated dress circle position overlooking

Rose chandeliers inspiring the ceiling pattern and walls decorated with

the dining room, with cocktails intended to represent the traditional ties

custom-made porcelain Victorian jelly moulds. An illustration by English

between Britain and Australia.

artist Dave McKean surrounds the six-guest chef’s table, whilst sculptures by Australian artist David Bromley adorn the room. Continuing the artistic

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www.dinnerbyheston.com.au



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Theo Mio InterContinental Bangkok

The first restaurant from Theo Randall outside the UK, Theo Mio takes the

chef de partie at the InterContinental Park Lane restaurant. His open

Italian style that has proved so enduringly successful at the InterContinental

kitchen serves up ingredient-focused sharing meals, with elements

Park Lane and transports it to Thailand.

such as Burrata, olives from Puglia and salted anchovies all featuring.

With 70 covers indoors and 27 on the terrace – straddling the busy

Never one to miss an opportunity, quintessentially Italian staples

Phloenchit Road – Theo Mio channels informality, with parasols and full

also appear on the cocktail menu - the ‘Cheese Addict’ being a divisive

size trees outside and deli style shelves and wooden crates in. The mix of

combination of Prosecco and Parmesan.

indoor and outdoor spaces echoes the Mediterranean concept and provides an opportunity for al fresco dining in the Bangkok heat. Its Italian design sensibility comes courtesy of P49 Deesign & Associates, a local Thai agency whose work across MEA also includes the Marriott

“Italian food is all about celebrating the ingredients and preparing dishes that allow diners to explore and enjoy a culinary journey in an environment that is fun and relaxed,” said Randall. “At Theo Mio, I want to give guests the opportunity to sample some truly exciting dishes.”

Hanoi, W Muscat and Crowne Plaza Harbour City Shanghai. Randall’s name may hang above the door but it’s close colleague Chris Beverley heading up the operation, having previously served as

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www.bangkok.intercontinental.com


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Tonic & Remedy M by Montcalm Shoreditch, London

Tonic & Remedy is designed to provide a warm juxtaposition to the sharp

Jeremy Pascal, an ambassador for Benedictine, heads up the bar

architecture of the 5Plus-designed building that houses it. The Tonik

operations and his fascination with herbal liqueurs is evident in the

Associates interior features polished marble throughout, balanced with

unconventional cocktail menu. The concept is a ‘celebration of apothecaries

leather chairs in burnt orange and navy. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide

within British heritage’ and the Apothecary – one of the venue’s ‘hero’

views onto the busy City Road, underscoring the urban atmosphere that

drinks – is inspired by a well-known herbal liqueur cooked with rosemary

informs the restaurant, bar and hotel as a whole.

and sweetened with home-made peach butterscotch jam. The Patience &

Paul Welburn, who retained the Michelin star and AA rosettes when

Thyme features a unique infusion of gin and thyme along with smoked egg.

working at Rhodes W1, serves as executive chef. The menu’s emphasis

A contrast, or remedy, to the glut of hyper-specialised F&B destinations

is on boutique suppliers, with produce from Lake District Farmers,

in East London, Tonic & Remedy aims to provide a more inclusive space

Mountain Foods and The Bread Factory. The restaurant’s signature

with diversity, balance and fusion central to both the food and beverage

dishes take inspiration from classic British staples and include smoked

offering and the ambience of the space.

eel, a shepherd’s pie made with rump of lamb shoulder, and jelly and seaweed scones.

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www.tonicandremedy.co.uk


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The Thief Bar The Thief, Oslo

The Thief Bar aims to be a truly holistic experience. From the music to

French glamour and voilà: Thief Bar serves up its very own concoction

the art, the bar snacks to the interior design, every element has been

of interstellar funk,” he says.

meticulously planned and executed. With Master of the Bar Chris Grøtvedt

The Anemone Ville Våge interior features characterful objets d’art,

aiming to have the Oslo venue ‘listed in the Top 50 Bars in the World’

with playful wooden toys from Permafrost, metal spiders by John-

within its first year, the high ambitions are manifest in a wealth of

Andre Hanøy and an assortment of other items from the likes of Damien

elevating details.

Hirst and Tom Dixon. The Swedish hand-made bar stools were selected

Thanks to a collaboration with the hotel’s neighbor, the Renzo Piano

especially for their swivel credentials, making it as easy as possible for

designed Astrup Fearnley Museum, the Thief Bar is home to a number of

guests to people-watch or strike up a conversation with fellow patrons

important art pieces from the likes of Norway’s Queen Sonja, Kjell Nupen

over cocktails derived from three main themes: The Masterpieces, The

and Nicki de Saint Phalle.

Counterfeits and Lost & Found. “We offer outstanding mixology rooted in

The bar’s signature sound landscape has been created alongside Swedish

our Scandinavian heritage,” says Grøtvedt.

music producer and DJ, Tobias Lindén. “Take an eclectic selection of rare groove, Brazilian Tropicália, soul, funk, hip hop and disco, add a splash of

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www.thethief.com


SPREAD

Our cover shoot for the first Supper is a sumptous feast of sharing plates, celebrating produce and products from the North of England, where Supper’s publishers and our brand partners 93 are based. The centrespread takes inspiration from the still life paintings of the Dutch Golden Age, using heritage tableware, vintage props and Victoriana.


This Page: Victorian-style, hand raised game pies, filled with rabbit, venison, partridge and pheasant, are decorated with small maple leaves, and served with crab apple and hedgerow berry chutney. Accessories include an antique Victorian bread board with pewter edges, a French foie gras jar as well as as vintage cutlery and ceramics from Sheffield and Stoke-on-Trent, cities both famous for their production of tableware since the 17th century.


Front Cover Image: A traditional Eccles Cake is served on a gold scallop-edged ‘Clarice Cliff’ dinner plate, alongside an antique Italian Bonomelli espresso maker. The coffee cup, saucer and cake plate are Wedgwood Black Basalt. This Page: A truckle of cotton bound Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire cheese with fresh damsons and autumn apple, cut with a black-handled butter knife by Tricketts of Sheffield. ‘Easy Rider’, an acclaimed pale ale from Kelham Island Brewery, is served in an antique pewter tankard on the side.


‘Golden Hen Eggs with cheese straw’ Vintage brass candlestick, antique porcelain candlestick (Wedgwood), silver dipped champagne flute, salt pot, French linen dinner napkin and pewter tankard


‘Hand raised game pie’ Industrial porcelain rubber glove mould, silver bread fork, Victorian meat plate, antique pewter tankard, ‘pear and apple’ salt and pepper shakers ‘Bread and butter’ Quail pottery ‘border terrier’ egg cup, butter pat and vintage butter curler, Easy Rider pale ale (Kelham Island, Sheffield), pyramid terrarium with established succulents, butter knife (Taylor’s Eye Witness), stone candle holder (Tom Dixon)

‘Wine’ Art Deco cut glass wine carafes, silver dipped wine glass, linen napkin, solid brass candlestick and ornate dining plate


‘Flowers and Pheasant’ Florals throughout by Swallows & Damsons of Sheffield, taxidermy from The Chimney House’s own collection

‘Blackberry Vimto Trifle’ Victorian cut glass presentation stand with pewter base, crystal white wine glass, handmade copper tea light holders (Warren Martin), stone candle holder (Tom Dixon), vintage jelly mould


‘Eccles Cakes and Lancashire Cheese’ Two truckles of cotton bound Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire cheese on vintage serving plates, crystal red wine glass, ornate porcelain candlestick (Wedgwood), brown glazed chocolatiers’ jug, crystal cognac carafe with crystal cognac snifter, plate of Eccles cakes


This Page: Raspberry Vimto Trifle is accessorised with dahlia,

Chef: Robert Owen Brown

cow parsley, centifolia roses and crab apples. Champagne is

Location: The Chimney House, Sheffield

served in antique coupe glasses.

Photography: 93 with India Hobson Shoot Direction & Food Styling: Sally Clark & Kirstin Wallace – 93 Concept Development & Production: www.93ft.com For future issues of Supper we are seeking to collaborate with hotel F&B outlets, chefs, bartenders, suppliers, creative agencies and food stylists. Please contact us for further details.


WGS_ToTheTable-Ad copy.pdf

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11/3/15

2:37 PM


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Marina Social InterContinental Dubai Marina

“Marina Social is a true reflection of the premium experiences and services

himself and produced in the UK, whilst ornately designed, mismatching

that we offer our guests,” says Michael Martin, General Manager of the

plates emblazoned with skull motifs were an unexpected find on a trip to

InterContinental Dubai Marina. “We are incredibly proud to be bringing

New York City. These personal touches serve to reinforce the deformalized

Jason Atherton’s social dining concept to the city, especially to our new

approach that has proved defining of Atherton’s work.

landmark hotel.”

The food channels a wry British wit and the ‘feed me’ tasting menu,

Designed by Draw Link Group, the 170-cover venue reflects its

available with varying numbers of courses, contains a twist on English tea

surroundings, utilising clean lines and industrial materials to convey

and toast with mushroom ‘tea’ and parmesan ‘milk’. Bone marrow butter

an understated, contemporary attitude. Although occupying a sweeping

and gentleman’s relish are presented in bone themed dishes. The smoked

535m2 space within the hotel, the restaurant is subtly compartmentalised

lobster arrives complete with ‘smoke box’ for a theatrical flourish, while

by dividing walls and mixed seating for a heightened sense of intimacy.

the Italian beef tomato and burrata ensures diners are guaranteed the

The pared-down aesthetic of the furnishings – with wooden chairs

ever-important Instagram moment.

from Japanese company Ritzwell – is offset by the drama of the food and beverage presentation. Silver sorbet stands were designed by Atherton

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www.marinasocialdubai.com


Each crystal tasting glass is created by Waterford designers and whiskey professionals to bring out the best in every bottle

Waterford.co.uk


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The Printing Press Bar & Kitchen The George, Edinburgh

The building that now houses The Printing Press, the first restaurant in

to The Printing Press. The decor and branding evoke the feel of a 1920s

Scotland from respected restaurateur Des McDonald, has something of an

speakeasy, with oak herringbone and chequerboard tiling on the floor and

illustrious history. It was home to novelist Susan Ferrier in the 1780s –

bespoke joinery and brass detailing forming the bar. Seating is a mix of

when Robert Burns was reportedly a regular guest – and the residence of

aged leather chairs and deep blue velvet banquettes.

John Oliphant in the mid-1800s. His children founded one of the country’s

“This is very much a fully-flexible F&B offer,” said Martin Goddard,

most prestigious publishing houses and it’s this nugget of history that

Director of Goddard Littlefair. “Aimed at residents and visitors of

generated the venue’s idiosyncratic moniker.

Edinburgh, as well as at hotel guests, it’s been designed with maximum

The concept was developed by Des McDonald, with Goddard Littlefair

flow and adaptability throughout the day,” affording bar guests the

responsible for interior design. It is one of four projects that the interior

opportunity to eat from head chef Colin Fleming’s restaurant menu should

design agency is involved with as part of Starwood Capital’s new city centre

they wish.

hotel brand, launching in spring 2016. Comprised of a 92 cover, 186m2 restaurant and 116 cover, 207m2 bar, the entirety of the Georgian terrace’s front-to-back space has been given over

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www.printingpressedinburgh.co.uk



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The Distillery London Hilton Bankside

Aiming to be the latest ‘destination’ bar on London’s Bankside, The Distillery

The drinks offering has a focus on artisan gins and locally crafted beers,

is located within the former site of a renowned 1800s essence factory, with

while cocktails are inspired by the heritage of the building, incorporating

this heritage influencing both the design and the menu.

home-made aromatics, bitters and infusions. A range of sharing platters

Designed by Dexter Moren Associates in collaboration with Twenty2Degrees,

and bar snacks are also available.

the interior is industrial, drawing from the atmosphere of the surrounding

“I’m delighted to be part of such an exciting new addition to

area and featuring a mix of reclaimed materials and finishes. Exposed

London’s luxury hotel and hospitality scene,” says executive chef, Paul

metal screens, bare brickwork, reprocessed tube station tiles and bespoke

Bates. “Bankside has recently been through a tremendous commercial

joinery all feature. Fabrics inspired by William Morris also appear and form

transformation and we have so many incredible institutions on our

a common thread, stylistically tying The Distillery to the hotel’s restaurant,

doorstep. I’ve always been inspired by British produce and our local

OXBO Bankside. A ‘penny wall’ at the entrance creates immediate impact and

neighbours such as the Tate Modern, so expect to see those influences in

features coppers dating back to the 1860s. Amplifying the experience for a

the menu at The Distillery.”

select few, space has been left for passing dignitaries and special guests to mark their visit by placing their own coins onto the structure.

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www.hilton.com


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photo by S_Photo/Shutterstock.com


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Al Fresco Eating Cowley Manor, Gloucestershire

Words: Bethan Ryder

A

memorable picnic should be a ceremonious occasion. It should be a romantic feast shared in beautiful surroundings and, since this summer, guests can enjoy just that in the lush, bucolic surroundings of the English country house hotel Cowley Manor. Guests are requested to pre-order the picnic hamper, either when making their

hotel reservation or by 6pm the day before, which allows essential last minute weather checking. Picnickers can select a preferred location and at Cowley one is spoilt for choice, because it’s the soft, rolling lawns and beautifully landscaped Grade II-listed parkland of this 19th-century Italianate-style house that make for such a distinct guest experience. Dotted around the grounds in carefully chosen spots – such as the Herb Garden, Lower Lakes, Secret Garden or the Cascades – are positioned twin deck chairs flanking purple timber chests. At the time of the picnic a staff member lugs the loaded wicker hamper packed with British summertime treats to the designated beauty spot. The Cascades is a particularly secluded location, with the Victorian water feature adding to the atmosphere and soothing views onto the lower lake, meadows and woodland.

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Food is presented in a range of enamelware dishes covered with elegantly labeled greaseproof parchment tops, secured with elastic bands.

The purple chests serve as an alfresco mini bar, pre-

bean salad with shallots & walnuts and Jersey Royals with

stocked on the day with everything from Taittinger to soft

house dressing. For non-meat and wheat eaters, dietary

drinks and fruit juices. These are additional extras and

requirements are well catered for, with extra salads served

charged accordingly. Anticipation being all, unpacking the

in tiffins.

hamper provides an enjoyable prelude to the feast. Food is

The final round includes a cheese platter, homemade

presented in a range of enamelware dishes covered with

chutneys and biscuits, plus scones with clotted cream. In

elegantly labeled greaseproof parchment tops, secured with

addition there is tea or coffee served in a flask, elderflower

elastic bands. Contents include lashings of ginger beer in

and strawberry jelly served in jars and a brown paper bag of

classic kilner bottles, vegetable crisps, homemade sausage

fudge, that it is often taken by guests over the course of an

rolls and scotch eggs with ketchup, plus Manor smoked

afternoon, almost supine, and with a postprandial snooze

salmon and cream cheese.

to follow.

To follow, fresh and colourful heritage tomato and Laverstock Farm mozzarella salad, roast poussin, green

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www.cowleymanor.com



Best Little Warehouse in Chicago

Soho House Group is renowned for artfully preserving original features and lacing their spaces with references to the local destinations. The luxury in their lower-key environments comes from the quality of the food and the relaxed-but-professional service. This is exemplified in the sixth-floor Rooftop Restaurant at Soho House Chicago just off the city’s Restaurant Row.

Words: Juliet Kinsman

J

102

ust west of Chicago Loop, Illinois’

Chicago is celebrated as a culinary world

central commercial downtown district,

leader these days, so it is important that the

Fulton Market is fast becoming the

menu appears effortlessly cool, yet is still

hippest part of town. Reminiscent of

impressive and reasonably priced. There’s an

New York’s Meatpacking District – once a

Italian accent in the lighter, shareable salads

low-rise sprawl of wholesale butchers, now a

and pizzas all served fit for Instagram. (You’ll

hub of creative studios and loft spaces – Soho

need to snap surreptitiously though. This is

House Club is one of the addresses heralding

Soho House: photography is strictly verboten.)

a new era for the Midwest’s equivalent, which

Whereas many restaurants in Chicago offer

was recently landmarked. Nowhere is Chicago’s

full-on fare, here on the Rooftop the menu is

charismatic skyline better appreciated in

fresh and seasonal. Chef Alexis Rorabaugh is at

panorama than here from the top-floor terrace

the helm of the Club Floor kitchen and she’s a

of the 1907-built six-story former Chicago

master of that ‘zeitgeisty’ style that discerning

Belting Factory which is now a 40-room hotel

consumers crave today where there’s a

with two public restaurants and two floors of

blurring of the lines between formal and rustic.

members club spaces.

Locally sourced ingredients are used to create


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Rooftop food at Soho House Chicago

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Soho House Chicago. Ground floor resturants include Pizza East and Chicken Shop.

approachable dishes. A standout is the Rooftop Burger

dishes. Even the plate of pickles including tangy capers and

topped with aged cheddar and porchetta, but this is a place

intriguingly coloured strawberries here begs to be tasted by

where salads presented in wood trays are as appealing as

all and shared across social media. If you’re lucky they’re

anything from the grill. In this city teeming with deep-dish

served with a side order of sunshine and swimming if it’s

cheese-slathered pies, their thin crust pizzas straight from

the right season. “In relation to the other Houses, the long

the wood fired over are refreshing.

bed around the pool is consistent with Soho Beach House in Miami,” says Vicky Charles, the Director of Design who

As well as having a great casual elegance, Soho House’s atmosphere also benefits from its personal service.

works closely with founder and CEO Nick Jones, about the come-hither towel-clad loungers which members and guests are encouraged to order food and drink from. What’s insisted upon by the team is that you always feel relaxed and get grandstand seats for what is an

Soho House’s fast-growing portfolio of members clubs

architecturally unique view. With the delivery trucks and

and hotels and restaurants has an unmistakeable shtick.

storage facilities below not yet replaced by media agencies

All House members of the London born, media beloved

and fashion showrooms, the industrial bustle makes a

hangouts may recognise their distinct look and feel

characterful backdrop to the creative and entrepreneurial

whichever outpost they’re in, from Soho or Somerset to

spark in the air – the same Soho House vibe from the early

Istanbul. But this does not mean that they all feel the same

days. “As with Soho House New York, Chicago has a relaxed

or homogenous – far from it – the brand that started in

dining style where guests can sit all day,” adds Charles.

London in 1995 has strong personality traits. So envied are

Lucky them, provided they’re members. If you don’t have

its interiors they’re launching Soho Home, a homewares

your access-all-areas card, there’s always Pizza East,

and interiors retail brand so that soon you’ll be able to steal

Chicken Shop, the Fox Bar and Allis Bar to make do with

their style. As well as having a great casual elegance, Soho

downstairs.

House’s atmosphere also benefits from its personal service. This group’s knack is serving up simple yet imaginative

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www.sohohousechicago.com



Igniv featuring plates by Maison Raynaud and Pieter Stockmans, with glassware by Zalto

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Igniv Grand Resort Bad Ragaz

Words: Harry McKinley

A

h, you must be heading to the resort,”

white walls and contemporary furnishings.

the inspector notes, while marking

“It’s almost Scandinavian,” remarks one guest.

our tickets at Zürich Hauptbahnhof.

“Unrecognisable,” says another.

We’re en route to Bad Ragaz and it’s

To understand the design, one must first

apparent that, for the Swiss, the town and

understand the concept. Igniv means ‘nest’

the cluster of interconnected hotels that form

in Romansh, Caminada’s mother tongue. The

Grand Resort Bad Ragaz are something of an

intention is a space built around togetherness

institution. We later find that Swiss natives

- moments with family and friends, or even

make up roughly 60% of visitors to the site,

convivial strangers. Patricia Urquiola was

famed for its natural spring.

responsible for the interior and by mixing

Until recently Äbtestube was one of the

soft furnishings with a light colour palette

resort’s - and the region’s - most noted

she creates a relaxed atmosphere. Nods to the

Michelin starred restaurants. With its wood

past are still evident - the roaring open fire

paneled walls, silver cloches and classic menu it

remains and the old parquet floor is repurposed

was the height of tradition. Now, however, it has

as boiserie on the walls. A feeling of openness

been replaced with a concept that is altogether

pervades, despite the restaurant’s inherent

more modern, with a bold renovation and a new

intimacy. It seats just 30 people.

dining experience from decorated Swiss chef,

But if the aesthetic is a departure, then the

Andreas Caminada. Holder of three Michelin

dining experience is a revolution. “A reimagining

stars at Schloss Schauenstein in Fürstenau, his

of the other restaurant would be too simple,”

work has seen him garner celebrity status and

Caminada said. “This is a whole new idea, with

Igniv marks the opening of his long-awaited

a focus on sharing.” Before a single aperitif or

second restaurant.

appetizer has been served, the emphasis on

Despite his celeb-chef clout, there’s an

collectiveness is obvious. Instead of a space

element of risk. What came before was much

occupied by carefully aligned tables-for-two,

loved and far from emulating its traditional

long tables are flanked by banquettes and round

style, Caminada has taken a daring approach.

tables provide room for groups of eight or nine.

The refurbishment was less a quick spruce

“Sit with people you like,” we’re told. “It’s all

and more a complete overhaul. Gone is the

about the social experience.”

wood paneling, pastoral artwork and patterned curtains. In their stead arrives clean lines,

The menu is the ultimate expression of the sharing concept. Each ‘course’ comprises

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multiple smaller dishes that function

scale. In this regard it brings us back to the

The tabletop represents its own narrative.

a singular, holistic experience. Dishes are

Confidently patterned dishes from Raynauld

of the resort’s visitors are Swiss and, of

placed sporadically in the centre of the table,

sit alongside more minimal examples from

those, a majority are over 55. “A restaurant

every one a talking point. Arms reach, plates

Pieter Stockmans. Wine glasses from Zalto

can influence the perception of a whole

are passed, fingers point, guests ‘ooh’ at the

strike an elegant figure beside stout tumblers

resort,” said Peter P. Tschirky, chairman

theatricality of each item and conversations

in earthy colours. In the eclecticism there

of the Executive Committee of the Grand

are sparked. “Have you tried that one yet?”

is harmoniousness, thanks to a clear vision

Resort Bad Ragaz. Whilst its loyal clientele

“What’s under that lid?” “Can you pass the

that is thoughtfully and tastefully executed.

will continue to be the lifeblood of the resort,

goose liver flower meringues?” The staidness

“We think about the tabletop as a complete

in Igniv there is the opportunity to attract a

of formal white linen fine dining is relegated

picture,” says Francesco Benvenuto, restaurant

wider international audience and strengthen

in favour of a relaxed, elevated take on ‘help

manager and sommelier.

the hotel’s position as a destination for

yourself’. It’s an idea that is progressive for

108

ideas, but it’s the experience that counts.”

independently but ultimately combine for

With Caminada occupied with his successful

demographics mentioned previously. 60%

travellers of all ages. “The new restaurant

Switzerland and yet it’s hard not to imagine

Fürstenau restaurant, Silvio Germann heads

concept is certainly something that will

it as the future of haute cuisine. At one point

up the kitchen at Igniv, producing dishes

attract guests young and old,” Tschirky says.

some pickled pumpkin lands squarely on the

like braised veal cheek with Brussels sprouts

“Three generations are united at our resort

tablecloth, orange juices bleeding into the

and bacon, served in a silver pan; air bread

– grandparents, parents and children – all

white fabric. Yet no one quite seems to mind,

filled with prawns and a cut-up sour cream

under the same roof.”

or even notice, so enrapt is the table in bawdy

pancake with vanilla sauce. There are riffs on

With its forward-thinking dynamic, social

conversation and the food and drink. This is

the classics here and there but, on the whole,

focus and relaxed attitude, Igniv comes good

surely what Caminada meant when he told us,

it is inventive, contemporary cuisine served in

on its name. With reservations flying, this is

“I want to bring people together around the

inventive, contemporary surroundings.

one nest that is unlikely to struggle finding

table, to get them eating together, speaking to

With such a radical shift in style it does

each other, sharing ideas while enjoying some

pose the question of what Grand Resort Bad

of the same dishes. We can philosophise about

Ragaz is hoping to achieve on a broader

guests with a desire to roost. www.igniv.com


Sanremo_Supper_275x236_20151203_Layout 1 03/12/2015 14:38 Page 1

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Mirror Room Rosewood, London

E

xecutive chef Amandine Chaignot took the helm at Rosewood London’s Mirror Room in 2015, presenting a new signature menu that will change seasonally. Previously executive chef at Hôtel Raphael in Paris

and part of the elite jury for Masterchef France, Chaignot has worked with some of the most highly regarded chefs in Paris, including Eric Frechon, Yannick Alleno and Philippe Mille, and second to Christopher Hache at Hôtel de Crillon. Her inaugural menu, entitled Woodland, takes the diner on an ‘epicurean journey of flavours, reflective of the autumn and winter harvest,’ and reflects Amandine’s energy and personality while also respecting the great traditions of French cuisine in which she was trained. Amandine defines her modern French cooking style as ‘fresh, honest and intricate’, with Woodland a celebration of quality produce in its natural form.

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Leaf Crackers, Tarama and Fruit Pearls

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Foie Gras and Blackcurrant

She has created a series of carefully curated dishes and

inspiration for the presentation, with dishes served atop

members of her team will interact with guests throughout

foliage and neatly shorn slabs of tree trunk.

the evening by showcasing the raw ingredients from the

Amandine works closely with local British suppliers and

‘woodland’, explaining their characteristics and bringing an

Terroir d’Avenir – an organisation that links artisan food

element of storytelling to the dining experience. Described

producers with kitchens across Europe - to source fresh

as an, ‘insightful and sensory experience’, Woodland at

and ethically sourced ingredients for her menu. Terroir d’Avenir represents family-run farms, small fishing fleets

Her inaugural menu, entitled Woodland, takes the diner on an ‘epicurean journey of flavours, reflective of the autumn and winter harvest.’

and producers of some of the finest fruits, vegetables and herbs, helping them to connect with chefs and suppliers around Europe. Designed by Tony Chi and Associates, Mirror Room is inspired by ‘English country manors’ and the grand residences of Belgravia and Knightsbridge. Sumptuous but

Mirror Room enables guests to smell, touch and sample

comfortable, diners sit on long sofas, whilst a combination

some of the most-sought after vegetables and herbs.

of contrasting materials – reflective surfaces and luxe

Amandine’s dishes showcase the freshest seasonal

fabrics – give the space an eclectic, relaxed air.

ingredients from across the British Isles including ceps and other wild mushrooms, savoy cabbage, meadowsweet, figs, baby beets, wood sorrel and chestnuts; as well as seasonal meats including grouse, venison and partridge. The woodland theme also provides a strong source of

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www.rosewoodhotels.com


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Alain Ducasse Plaza Athénée, Paris Paris is often a city known for its unwavering commitment to tradition, but in Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée it presents a vision of curated modernity.

The Concept Tasked with the design of the restaurant, Jouin Manku approached the project with the aim of creating a space full of fantasy and wonder. It is the continuation of a longstanding relationship, with Patrick Jouin having applied his contemporary approach to the bar and restaurant in previous refurbishments. Along with his partner, Sanjit Manku, 2014 represented an opportunity to reimagine an already celebrated venue, to evolve established design codes with a groundbreaking new vision and conceive of a hotel restaurant experience unlike any other. Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée (ADPA) ultimately emerged as a showcase of the work of numerous craftspeople. Although one restaurant, the space features two distinct iterations: one for breakfast and one for haute cuisine, with the layout and lighting changing to alter the atmosphere from morning to evening.

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The Space ADPA creates immediate impact with the monolithic steel domes that define the space. Matinox produced the metalwork and it took the company’s artisans 3500 hours to complete the three audacious structures. All of the leather upholstery in the restaurant was carried out by Pierre-Yves Le Floc’h, ‘Compagnon

Atlantic sea bass with baby leeks and black olives

du Devoir’ and ‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’ - a contemporary upholsterer based in Vannes - with particular commitment made to using disappearing upholstery techniques. One of the restaurant’s more witty touches is Jouin Manku’s reinterpretation of the traditional food and drinks trolley. White spoked wheels draw reference from bicycles, while all of the technical parts and trays have been produced in stainless steel. Chairs made by Italian firm Poliform are designed to slide silently from under the table, lest the ambience be ruined by the grate of metal. When the restaurant shifts into ‘night mode’, a cabinet of curiosities designed by Lallier is revealed. Illustrating the art and history of tableware, it features a mix of pieces drawn from Ducasse’s personal collection, representing the most important French manufacturers – from Christofle to Saint Louis. During the day this eccentric assembly is hidden away from breakfast diners behind one-way mirrored glass.

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Photography: Pierre Monetta

The Table New ideas combine with classic styles on the tables of ADPA. Cutlery created in the 1970s by Roger Tallon is re-edited for the restaurant. Organic ceramics from Pierre Tachon and Japanese artist Shinichiro Ogata meet pieces from Venezuelan designer Rina Menardi and artisan potter GÊrard Crociani. Some of the more individual pieces were even sourced by Ducasse at flea markets, his passion for tableware and product design evidenced throughout both the restaurant and the kitchens. The menu, created by Ducasse with the help of chef Romain Meder, provides a healthy and sustainable take on haute cuisine. Changing with the seasons, the menu follows the fish-vegetable-cereals theme that has helped make Ducasse one of the most notable chef’s of his generation. These three components inform all of his signature dishes, and continue to be the driving force defining the cuisine at ADPA. www.alainducasse-plazathenee.com

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Kozue Park Hyatt, Tokyo

C

hefs have long used storytelling in food to take

Part of what has come to define Kozue is the altered

guests on intimate and thought-provoking

approach to serving and the combination of a classic

journeys. At Kozue, at Tokyo’s Park Hyatt, chef

Japanese aesthetic with meticulously sourced food

de cuisine Kenichiro Ooe devised an odyssey fit

and drink, and these elements have been retained for

for Homer, as guests were transported around Japan in a

Tohoku Heroes. Japanese kaiseki are multi-course meals

series of dinners celebrating the nation’s distinct culinary

traditionally served on a range of small dishes, however

heritage.

at Kozue Ooe serves this style in a variety of larger bowls

The concept was born in 2013 with the first chapter

and portion sizes, on a single tray from which diners help

of ‘Tohoku Heroes’. A response to the 2011 earthquake

themselves. It’s an attempt to break down some of the

and tsunami that proved so devastating to Japan, Ooe

rigidity of Japanese food ritual and encourage a collective

envisioned a culinary experience that would not only

guest experience through sharing, an idea that has long

showcase quality local produce but also revive struggling

been at the core of European cuisine. Dishes are presented

farms in the affected Tohoku region.

in a selection of handcrafted original Japanese pottery bowls

The six prefectures that comprise Tohoku each represent their own cooking traditions and unique range of produce,

and plates, selected by the chef personally. For both locals and guests alike there is a consistently authentic attitude.

and in 2013 Ooe told the story of three: Iwate, Miyagi and

Describing his food as ‘comfort cuisine’, chef Ooe’s

the now internationally known Fukushima. He toured the

remaining ‘heroes’ included bluefin tuna from Aomori,

prefectures, met with local farmers and sake producers, and

Hinai-jidori chicken from Akita and wagyu beef from

ultimately prepared a series of individual F&B experiences

Yonezawa in Yamagata.

at Kozue in a bid to ‘restore merit’ to an area in the process

With regional produce such an intrinsic element of

of rebuilding. His ‘heroes’ included koshihikari small grain

contemporary dining, Kozue and chef Ooe demonstrate how

Japanese rice from Aitzu in Fukushima, black minnow from

the principle of sourcing locally can be translated into a

Iwate and bigeye tuna cooked in a brine pan from Miyagi.

clearly conceived F&B concept, enticing guests and working

The success of the endeavour saw the sequel realised and

as a means to affect an impact on farmers and producers.

autumn 2015 brought to a close this culinary tale of Tohoku, with Ooe tackling the last three prefectures of Akita, Aomori and Yamagata – where Ooe was born.

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www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com


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Hinai-jidori chicken from Akita

Wagyu beef from Yamagata and sashimi served in a katakuchi bowl

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Aulis at Fera Claridge’s, London

W

ith guests seeking evermore

than the restaurant as a whole, eschewing the

immersive and dynamic

notion of fine dining and opting instead for the

F&B experiences, Aulis at

easy informality that befits a working kitchen.

Fera functions not only as a

KitchenAid, Machatech Systems and Buchi

development kitchen where chefs can learn and

kitchen equipment all feature, while no Rogan

experiment, but as an intimate and interactive

concept would be complete without a Big Green

private dining room. “With our guests’ growing

Egg – the chef-popular, kamado-style ceramic

appetite for discovering more about the food

barbecue cooker used for smoking and grilling.

they eat and how it is prepared, we wanted

Alex Beard, previously at The Waterside Inn,

to offer this opportunity to invite them even

is responsible for the day-to-day operation of

further behind the scenes and give them a bit

Aulis at Fera, while Rogan and Fera’s executive

of insider knowledge of our kitchen,” said chef

chef, Dan Cox, oversee the general menu

Simon Rogan.

development. Described as ‘ever-changing’

The space is named in tribute to Aulis

the menu focuses on seasonal British produce.

Lehtimäki, the Finnish chef and artist who was a

With an unregimented approach, chefs take

key collaborator in the early days of L’Enclume,

inspiration from a steady rotation of fresh

Rogan’s two Michelin starred restaurant in

ingredient deliveries from key British suppliers.

Cartmel, Cumbria. This acclaimed restaurant

Naturally Rogan’s own farm will also help stock

has had its own Aulis development kitchen

the kitchen. Situated across 12-acres in The

since 2012, with the introduction of the concept

Cartmel Valley, it has long provided inspiration

at Fera seeing Rogan adapt the idea with the

for Rogan, and ingredients from the simply titled

Claridge’s guest in mind.

Our Farm are used across all of his restaurants.

The space features a six-seat kitchen counter

Born out of a growing consumer awareness

directly overlooking the cooking space, affording

of food products and cooking techniques, Aulis

diners a direct view and allowing them to engage

at Fera represents a bold diversification for

with the chefs in the preparation of the multi-

Claridge’s in its F&B offer. While the quality

course dinner menu. Individual seats can be

remains high, the guest experience is distinct

booked, or the table in its entirety.

from the array of sophisticated cocktails and sit-

Guy Oliver, who headed up the Art Deco

down menus offered elsewhere in the hotel.

transformation of Fera, was responsible for the design. An exposed brick wall and stone counter offers the venue a more relaxed aesthetic

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www.feraatclaridges.co.uk


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DESSERTS

Figs from the Provence Area Epicure, Le Bristol, Paris

Proclaimed by some to be the ‘world’s best restaurant’, the three Michelin starred Epicure’s dishes elevate food presentation to an art form. Discreet plates and dishes in inconspicuous shapes serve as the canvases for inventively assembled ingredients. The figs from the Provence area poached in spicy strawberry juice and served with Speculoos biscuit ice cream - is interpreted in literal fashion, as a twisting tree bearing gold embellished fruit. www.lebristolparis.com

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P A S S I O N F O R T A B L E C U LT U R E

As a brand for sophisticated table culture, TAFELSTERN’s strengths lie in its constant endeavour to create products of perfect shape and decoration. Developing diverse stylistic collections, TAFELSTERN is a problem-solver and consultant for the hotel and restaurant business.

Please find your regional partner under www.tafelstern.de/international-contacts-en

www.tafelstern.com

TAF-15-023_ANZ_SupperMag_236x275+3_RZ.indd 1

16.10.15 15:42


DESSERTS

Slow Roasted Apple Pie The Drake, Toronto

With a brown sugar crumble and calvados ice cream, the slow roasted apple pie is indicative of The Drake’s dessert menu of ‘reinvented classics’. Representing the clean serving style and ‘homespun’ sensibility that is the hotel’s trademark, emphasis is put on the styling of the ingredient components over complex product presentation. As if cementing The Drake’s bohemian credentials, the slow roasted apple pie sits on the menu alongside a selection of supporting sweet cocktails. www.thedrakehotel.ca

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Beverage cooler DIVA The elegant eyecatcher. www.wmf-hotel.de


DESSERTS

Peach Céleste, The Lanesborough, London

Although celebrating authentic British produce, the cuisine at Céleste draws on a particularly French savoir-faire. Led by executive chef Florian Favario, with the ‘master of pastries and desserts’ Nicolas Rouzaud, the recently opened restaurant is intended to provide an imaginative and modern take on tradition. The Peach serves as one of the venue’s signature dishes and features dessert white and yellow peaches, verbena, redcurrant, ginger cold consommé, sorbet and fresh almonds. www.lanesborough.com

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Tea & COFFEE

Prêt-à-Portea The Berkeley, London

Nearly a decade old but still in style, Prêt-à-Portea from The Berkeley reimagined the traditional afternoon tea. Before the plethora of themed concepts that now saturate the hotel sphere it was, like the best fashion collections, a fresh vision and an innovative take on classic references. With a fashion theme, the Prêt-à-Portea imagines runway pieces as ornately crafted biscuits and desserts. This season, Dolce&Gabbana’s AW florals serve as inspiration for a lychee and almond mousse, while the designers’ Mary Jane heels are interpreted in a cinnamon biscuit with rose petals and sugar crystals. Shades of pink at Alexis Mabille are reimagined as a vanilla panna cotta and chestnut cream duchesse satin, topped with a shimmering chocolate bow. From a Victoria sponge shoulder bag to a double-breasted chocolate biscuit coat, labels such as Valentino, Alice Temperley and Moschino are all given the baker’s treatment. “With the continued popularity of Afternoon Tea in London, we are constantly trying to bring something new and innovative to the table with Prêt-à-Portea – showcasing how patisserie craftsmanship can be as creative on the cake stand as it is on the catwalk,” says head pastry chef at The Berkeley, Mourad Khiat. “We are looking forward to celebrating our 10th anniversary of Prêt-à-Portea this year as a result of its continued success.” Served in The Caramel Room, Prêt-à-Portea features a bespoke collection of fine-bone china from Wedgewood, with a bold diamond design in the season’s must-have colours. www.the-berkeley.co.uk

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Tea & COFFEE

The Rosebery Mandarin Oriental, London

Afternoon tea at The Rosebery channels the East-meetsWest philosophy that helps define the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group. A tea selection from The East India Company features blends crafted exclusively for the hotel including, uniquely, two high-grown single estate teas from markedly contrasting regions – Orange Pekoe from Sri Lanka and the Golden Monkey leaf from China. The Oriental Afternoon Blend is intended to ‘linger on the palate’ as a robust option, particularly suited to midday. The Rosebery China Collection from William Edwards has been produced especially and features bird, branch and butterfly motifs. It’s a theme reiterated in the twisting twig tea stand that holds the usual spread of afternoon tea treats – from finger sandwiches to macarons. Glassware by John Jenkins complements the distinctive tea service, featuring frosted floral detailing, while uniforms are designed by British fashion designer Charlotte Taylor. Champagne afternoon teas are also available, with options including Ruinart Blanc de Blancs, Ruinart Rosé and Krug Grande Cuvée. A sake option comes complete with a selection of three sakes while the Teamaster’s Choice features varieties from the Rare & Limited Tea List. www.mandarinoriental.com

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Tea & COFFEE

Parcafé The Dorchester, London

Designed by CADA Design, the recently launched coffee shop concept from The Dorchester, Parcafé follows in the trend of taking high street F&B staples and fusing them with larger hotel operations. Elevating the humble cappuccino-and-go, Parcafé serves coffee from Alchemy, the South London roaster founded in 2008 noted for its quality and ethical practices, while teas come courtesy of New York based Harney & Sons - specialists in fine and gourmet blends. A marbled floor and counters meet textured dune tiles and dark wood in a design that fuses the polish of the hotel with the traditions of the classic coffeehouse. A canary yellow La Marzocco FB80 coffee machine takes centre stage and echoes the colour motif of the distinctively designed takeaway cups. Displays by The Dorchester’s resident florist Phil Hammond complement the space and are also available to purchase. Keen to compete with the high street behemoths, Parcafé operates seven days a week, opening at the espresso-necessary time of 7am on weekdays. www.dorcestercollection.com

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SIPPING

“The bar had to connect to that legacy and that history but I also wanted it to evoke a feeling of the grand hotels of the period.” David d’Almada of Sagrada on the design of The Library Bar at The Norman Hotel.



COCKTAILS xxx

Death of the Hipster Artesian The Langham, London

As winner of the ‘World’s Best Bar’ by Drinks International for four consecutive years, Artesian is frequently at the forefront of cocktail innovation and creativity. With its Surrealist theme, cocktails are based on Les Diners de Gala, the eccentric cookbook by Salvador Dalí – posterboy for the artistic movement. The menu subverts traditional notions of service, presenting cocktails in an array of abstract vessels, from oversized metallic ants to smoking wooden boxes. The ironically titled (presumably) Death of the Hipster features a mix of Workshop coffee, jasmine, tonic, oak smoke and elderflower. Presented in a measuring flask, the concept references the alchemic nature of mixology. With the departure of former head bartender Alex Kratena and the announcement of Phillip ‘Pip’ Hanson as his successor, the bar will soon unveil its next concept, influenced by Hanson’s stripped-down approach and Ginza cocktail technique. www.artesian-bar.co.uk

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THE PENFOlDs COllECTION. A FAMIly OF FINE WINEs, EACH WITH A DIsTINCT CHARACTER, qUAlITy AND PROVENANCE. A TEsTAMENT TO THE ENDURING ‘HOUsE sTylE’ AND WINEMAkING PHIlOsOPHy THAT PENFOlDs HAs PROUDly UPHElD sINCE 1844.

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COCKTAILS

Field of Passion Café Gray Bar The Upper House, Hong Kong

Served as a non-alcoholic option to guests, the Field of Passion is a mix of apple juice, passion fruit puree, syrup and fresh lemongrass. Developed by The Upper House’s Marlo Guevarra and designed as a reflection of the venue’s Asian roots, the cocktail frequently serves as a first impression of the hotel and bar. In 2014 Guevarra also won a competition to see the cocktail served as the welcome cocktail for business and first class passengers flying Cathay Pacific. On the ground, Field of Passion has become one of the hotel’s signature blends, and is offered to guests partaking in one of the The Upper House’s luxury room packages - such as the collaboration with department store Harvey Nichols - at Café Gray Bar on the 49th floor of the hotel, where the understated combination of juices can be enjoyed alongside spectacular views of the city. www.cafegrayhk.com



COCKTAILS

Turf Club Seymour’s Parlour Zetter Townhouse Marylebone, London

Now with two townhouses, a hotel and a standalone

to an almost sculptural blade of scented grass curving

restaurant, the Zetter Group has carved a name for

its way up the glass. The interior may be enticingly

itself as a drinker’s paradise primarily through its

‘more is more’ in its approach, but when it comes to

partnership with Tony Conigliaro. Marylebone is the

the drinks, flavour is the star.

newer of the Zetter Townhouse duo and Seymour’s

Made with Old Tom Gin, Dubonnet, a grape reduction,

Parlour serves up the same heady mix of eccentricity

Peruvian bitters and grass, the Turf Club is an earthy

and charm that made the first so beloved.

concoction that exemplifies Conigliaro’s ability to draw

Conigliaro’s signature flair remains present in the cocktails and the Turf Club is arguably the most urbane

on the perfumery world for inspiration and combine the natural and the unexpected in a single glass.

in its presentation. That’s not to say there’s anything wildly flashy to be found of course, exhibition is limited

000

www.thezettertownhouse.com

Photography: Addie Chinn


WGS_ToTheTable-Ad copy.pdf

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11/3/15

2:37 PM


The Library Bar The Norman, Tel Aviv

Words: Harry McKinley

T

el Aviv’s Nachmani Street is undoubtedly one of the

traveller can identity with, where a hotel guest can feel at

city’s most charming. Bauhaus buildings in pastel

home and where locals can assemble to meet over cocktails

shades sit resolute behind lilting trees as the usually

and lively Tel Avivi chatter.

frenetic pace of ‘The Party City’ slows to a gentle

father of the hotel’s discreet owner and its namesake.

the Tel Aviv of old with its white verandas and creeping

Lourie founded the first luxury hotel in Israel, which

vines. It is the spirit of this era that The Norman’s Library

was subsequently frequented by the country’s first three

Bar seeks to rekindle.

presidents, as well as Sophia Loren, Paul Newman and the

David d’Almada of Sagrada was responsible for

cast of cinematic classic Exodus. “So there was a personal

overseeing the design, which artfully nods to the 1920s

aspect. The bar had to connect to that legacy and that

without tipping the line into imitation. The floors - inlaid

history but I also wanted it to evoke a feeling of the grand

with an Art Nouveau floral pattern - flickering curtains and

hotels of the period,” d’Almada says, “especially those in

wooden ceiling fans evoke a Mediterranean atmosphere,

Egypt, which were frequented by the British.”

albeit through the lens of nostalgia. “Before working on The Norman, I hadn’t been to Tel

If you’re not propping up the bar - a theatrical combination of shiny surfaces, tastefully discordant

Aviv,” d’Almada tells us. “But I sat in the square opposite,

glassware and vintage Boston shakers - The Library Bar

looking at the building and trying to engage with its

feels like a comfortable sitting room or member’s club.

vernacular - to think about an approach that wouldn’t be

Relaxed armchairs and sofas huddle around low tables.

too of-the-moment, but instead respectful.”

Despite a feeling of both age and timelessness, the furniture

The hotel as a whole reflects this sensitive drawing on

is bespoke and is a mix of pieces crafted locally in Israel

the past and yet The Library Bar sits apart. The influences

and designs made in Portugal. Not limited by decade, they

and references remain but the impact is more forceful,

are intended to reflect a sense of eclecticism that spans the

the design more distilled. It is, as d’Almada explains, a

1920s to 1950s.

“destination” in its own right – a space that a global

142

The project began as an homage to Norman Lourie, the

stroll. This isn’t the modern Tel Aviv of glass and steel, but

As the name suggests, The Library Bar features a


DRINKS

Photography: Sivan Askayo

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DRINKS

smattering of hefty coffee table books, placed

Library Bar feels like a fully realised concept.

Tezon Reposado tequila – a wink towards the

to ensnare guests. Sagrada worked with a

One so complete it hardly registers, which is

colonial and literary themes. Knowledgeable

local book supplier to ensure a mix that

ultimately the sign of success. Indeed, at a time

bartenders are quick to strike up chat with

felt relevant but surprising in places. That

when many hoteliers and designers are getting

guests on everything from the cocktails to

combination of familiar and unexpected

to grips with all-day operations, The Library

the day’s news, passing the time it takes

is much like the bar itself, which seems to

Bar’s easy energy makes the notion seem

them to whip up the beverage and then some.

straddle modernity and the whimsy of the

simple. The morning sees guests thumbing

The Balfour Mule - a mix of Mount Gay XO

bygone. Grand statement light pieces from

through papers, the smell of coffee lingering

rum, Fernet-Branca, fresh lime, vanilla and

British producer Collier Webb cast ambient,

in the air and the early sun rippling in through

topped with ginger beer - is named after Lord Arthur Balfour who presented the 1917

A space that a global traveller can identity with, where a hotel guest can feel at home and where locals can assemble to meet over cocktails and lively Tel Avivi chatter.

Balfour Declaration, one of the first documents that lead to the country’s independence. The Alena – a bellini made with Campari, fresh grapefruit, lemon juice and topped with prosecco - was devised in the winter as a means to use up the many grapefruits

curving shadows across the ceiling.

the palms outside. As the day progresses

produced in the gardens. The sense of narrative

From the uniform design to the bar’s scent,

the mood changes, the volume rises and the

that flows through the design and drinks

“no stone was left unturned” by Sagrada

cocktails flow. This isn’t a hotel bar that

offering is part of what makes The Library Bar

in creating a holistic and immersive guest

struggles to attract a crowd.

a rich and intentioned experience. As d’Almada

experience. D’Almada turned to a friend from

says, “It’s somewhere that has a carefully

London’s The Arts Club when it came to the

are grown in the hotel’s garden and the menu

crafted feeling but doesn’t stick too rigidly to

sourcing of vintage glassware, much of which

channels a taste of old world Europe. The

any one idea. It’s a space for everyone.”

is openly on display.

bar’s signature mix, The Lord Byron, features

This focus on the details means that The

144

Many of the ingredients used in the cocktails

home made chamomile liquer, fresh lime and

www.thenorman.com


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INTRODUCING

DIA_13785 T10 BF (236x275mm).indd 1

19/11/2015 14:13


A new image and packaging design for Isle of Arran


DRINKS

The Changing Face of Malts From new consumers to old traditions, we explore the shifting landscape of malt whisky.

Words: Mark Newton

S

ingle malt whisky: undoubtedly one of the most

as vodka, gin and rum, have seen considerable worldwide

instantly recognisable, well-known and iconic

success on the back of a key on-trade trend of the last

spirits in the world.

decade: premiumisation.

While its popularity has been hitherto based on its

It is hard to understate the implications for this

unique provenance, kaleidoscopic palate and rich historical

wholesale change in the way that consumers view spirits.

significance, things are beginning to change.

For the high-end retail sector – whether bars, hotels or

Tradition has served the category well for many years.

restaurants – it is crucial that the product lines they stock

The reassurance of the age statement – whether ten,

are a reflection of both the aspirations of the modern

twelve, twenty, thirty years or more - has been taken as a

drinker and the ethos of their retail business offer. This new

justification and symbol for quality, and, to a degree price.

marketing concept has created a scenario where the number

The history of a distillery and its individual characteristics

of different brands and products has exploded, providing

became the ‘brand’ and the rationale behind many drinkers’

the opportunity for procurers and bar managers to fine tune

preferences. Is it a Speyside? Perhaps an Islay? Is it peaty

their selection to truly reflect the requirements of their

and medicinal? Maybe rich and complex?

customer base. Equally producers and suppliers can react

These preferences and rationales have not necessarily

and respond to these changes much more quickly than in

gone away, but many younger malt whisky aficionados have

the past, tailoring products and brands to specific markets

different expectations in the 21st century as the market

or retail styles.

becomes ever more globalised and the original home of

To understand this increasing diversification within the

malt whisky, Scotland, comes under increasing competition

context of the global whisky network and the ways in which

from new directions such as Japan, India and even England.

both traditional and more recently established distillery

Many whisky producers are now also looking at the way

businesses are tackling this new dynamic, Supper talked

in which high-end expressions of other spirit styles, such

to Euan Mitchell, Managing Director of the Isle of Arran

147


DRINKS

Distillery about how his business has brought some fresh

New consumers to the category accept these changes as

thinking to the way in which traditional Scottish malt

the norm but the drinkers in ‘mature’ markets are very

whisky is marketed and packaged both in the UK and their

resistant to price increases and the increasing influence of

other key markets worldwide.

a packaging and marketing agenda when they entered the category on the basis of taste and tradition.

What where the motivations behind this change in approach?

Is it still crucially important to produce different products

I think it became pretty clear to premium malt whisky

for different international markets, or do you favour a

companies that they had to up their game in terms of

global approach?

packaging and marketing in order to compete with the

Our brand approach is definitely a global one. Our core

new realities of the drinks world. The approach from single

range of products is the same in every market and also for

malts had been very conservative for a long time and

our limited editions (like the new ‘Smugglers’ series). We

changes had to be made to attract new consumers and avoid

have seen a huge growth in the number of single casks we

the same generational drift that had so badly affected the

bottle, which does provide each market and, importantly,

blended Scotch whisky market from the 70s until the 90s.

the customers within them with something different. So there is certainly a demand for ‘unique’ products but it

“I think it became pretty clear to premium malt whisky companies that they had to up their game in terms of packaging and marketing in order to compete with the new realities of the drinks world.”

is not feasible for us to tweak our entire range to suit the demands of each market. Most of Asia is more demanding in this regard as they have certain expectations of luxury over and above age and availability. Where does the future for global malt whisky marketing lie?

Is the industry move towards ‘premiumisation’ a key

I see it as being largely technology driven with brands

factor here?

communicating increasingly directly with consumers rather

If you look at other spirits categories, the growth of

than the traditional ‘producer – customer – consumer’

premium vodka, such as Grey Goose, and subsequently gin

model. My only concern is losing sight of the traditional

created an opportunity for single malts to create a much

values of malt whisky production, which are what has

more luxury image. After all, if these non-aged spirits could

driven many people to the category in the first place.

demand prime retail pricing why shouldn’t Scotch whisky, and older variants in particular, also push the envelope?

Of course, Scottish malt whisky has some of the tightest

Furthermore, the growing move into Scotch whisky by

regulations in the spirits sector. As Mitchell implies there

luxury specialists also changed the landscape as these

are limits to the ways in which products can be produced

companies have had years of experience of commanding

and marketed, but there is the unique element of tradition

premium pricing for products such as champagne by

from which to innovate. Other global whisky producers do

changing the public’s perception of them rather than by

not have these same restrictions. This has acted as both an

changing the products themselves.

inspiration for the originators and has also helped to realign the wider international marketplace, allowing for a plethora

What key advantages are there to this move towards a

of individual styles and products. Notable and influential

different style of branding and positioning?

whisky writers, like Jim Murray, are now as likely to crown

It principally helps to attract a new audience both in

a Canadian or Taiwanese whisky as the peak of the distillers

terms of age and global profile, especially in the emerging

art as an Ardbeg, Talisker or Glenmorangie for example.

economies of the Far East. Luxury packaging and price

Whisky is now undoubtedly now a truly global product.

points are all helping to re-position malt whisky as a high-value and high margin category within global F&B, especially high-end hotels and restaurants.

Mark Newton – With 15 years’ experience working at global drinks consulting business CGA Strategy, Mark is a regular

148

What impact does catering for a new consumer have on

contributor to global trade publications including Harpers Wine &

the established market?

Spirit and Drinks Business



DRINKS

American Whiskey Tincup

Already available at Berners Tavern at the London Edition, Tincup is a new addition to the UK market from Proximo Spirits. Although described as an American Whiskey, Tincup is technically a bourbon - high in rye (32%) and low in malt compared to other whiskey brands. With a spicy, bold flavour, the name and packaging design are an ode to Colorado and the gold rush miners famed for drinking whiskey from tin cups. The bottle’s distinctive embossed sides are inspired by the Rocky Mountains, whilst the hexagonal shape is intended to stop it from rolling down mountainsides. Consumer familiarity is being developed through off-trade stockists including Selfridges and Fortnum & Mason. www.tincupwhiskey.com

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DRINKS

Hard Fired

Ballantine’s Produced in handpicked American oak, double-charred barrels, Hard Fired is the latest expression from Ballantine’s, Europe’s No.1 Scotch whisky. The signature hard firing of the barrels unlocks vanilla notes, smoky hints and provides a distinctive smoothness. With a 2015 launch in France and Poland, March 2016 sees a global rollout, with Hard Fired priced at 25% above Ballantine’s Finest – the entry level expression of the range. “When charred, casks form a natural layer of caramelised wood sugars that react with whisky and a double char understandably intensifies this effect. The result is a smooth, creamy and subtly smoky Scotch whisky with tasting notes of sweet honey, soft red apples and tangy liquorice. This balanced flavour profile results in a premium whisky,” says Sandy Hyslop, Ballantine’s master blender. www.ballantines.com

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DRINKS

Baccarat Crystal Martini Glass Grey Goose

In its latest collaboration, Grey Goose has worked with Baccarat on the design of a new martini glass that sees the classic cocktail served with a twist. The traditional V-shape has been narrowed by 20 degrees, with a smaller surface area keeping the beverage chilled for longer whilst concentrating the aromas. Less of a complete reimagining and more a combination of subtle innovations, the handmade Baccarat crystal glass elevates the drinking experience and provides a new way to appreciate an old faithful. Along with an artisanal mother-of-pearl coaster, it is part of the development of The Caviar Martini – described as the ‘ultimate martini’ – served at the American Bar at London’s Savoy.

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“From its creation, Grey Goose has always pioneered into new and exciting territory. With this endeavour, we set out to complement our extraordinary Grey Goose Martini with a glass that enhances the exceptional, quality taste of our spirit via its redefined dimensions and shape,” said Joe McCanta, Grey Goose Global Ambassador. The American Bar’s Caviar Martini is prepared with Grey Goose vodka, Savoy Cocchi Vermouth and a dash of Savoy Martini Bitters. True to its name, an Italian olive stuffed with premium caviar balances the inherent sweetness of the vodka.

www.greygoose.com


Reveal’Up collection Made in France

Ser ving your talent Chimney to reduce the smell and tart taste of alcohol

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Chef&Sommelier, the French expertise dedicated to wine tasting. Elegant collection of 11 glasses designed for the young and mature wines tasting.

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DRINKS

The Glenlivet Drinks Trolley Sebastian Cox

The Glenlivet have teamed up with British collective The New Craftsmen to mark the arrival of its latest expression, The Glenlivet Nàdurra Peated Whisky Cask Finish. Designer and craftsman Sebastian Cox has applied his talents to the creation of a drinks trolley inspired by the Scottish distillery and uses materials inspired, or produced by, the whisky making process. Oak staves from retired casks are used to form the trolley’s ‘barrow’ wheels whilst peated oak features in the dram tray – a nod to the earthy expression unveiled by The Glenlivet. Inspired by the traditional malt barrow used to turn and transport malt, the trolley features Cox’s signature wooden weave on the cupboard panels. A hand blown glass vessel from Michael Ruh, featuring a copper spinner and floating wood shavings, highlight the element of craft involved in the construction.

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Three bespoke rests showcase the three expressions of the Nàdurra range with each one reflecting a unique cask finish. The Glenlivet Nàdurra Peated Whisky Cask Finish rests upon 3,000 year-old peated oak, The Glenlivet Nàdurra Oloroso is cupped in warm hued cherry wood, while The Glenlivet Nàdurra First Fill Selection rests upon golden medullary flecked American white oak. “The opportunity to work on an item that embodies The Glenlivet Nàdurra range particularly resonated with me following time spent with the craftsmen at the distillery. The importance and influence of wood on the whisky was fascinating to me and I took inspiration from this in creating both the trolley and the tray,” said Cox.

www.thenewcraftsmen.com


SIDES

“Tableware is one of the essential categories in hospitality as hotel guests physically interact with it. A collection has to match the ambiance and atmosphere of the hotel as tableware doesn’t only complement the food, it can enhance the customer’s overall experience.” Burkhard Schmidt, Director of Villeroy & Boch’s Hotel and Restaurant Division.



SIDES

Buyers in talks with tableware manufacturer Steelite International

To The Table 2015 EMEA and Asia

F

ounded in 2012, To The Table has grown to become the premier F&B decision makers’ forum. Organised by Snap Events, with Supper as global media partner, and with two events in 2015 split between the EMEA and Asia regions, it connects suppliers and buyers over a highly curated three days

of meetings, networking events and panels. With a focus on products, the forum primarily features suppliers from the world of tabletop, technology and F&B produce. “To The Table EMEA (now MEA) and To The Table Asia are unique in that they are focused purely on the hospitality food and beverage industry at the highest level,” explains Debbie Wilson, director of To The Table and Snap Events. “Only the most senior decision makers attend from the most prestigious hotel and restaurant groups, so the event retains a sense of exclusivity. It also means that suppliers can talk to industry leaders about all of their restaurants in the respective region. So it’s a group-level conversation about projects, future plans and requirements.” 16th - 19th September saw delegates descend on Dubai’s Conrad Hotel for the EMEA event. In addition to the series of networking events and one-on-one suppliers and buyers meetings, highlights included a presentation by Afroditi

Photography: Richard Pereira

Krassa, founder and creative director of eponymous design studio AfroditiKrassa. In addition to discussing her EHDA nominated project TwoRuba, at London’s

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SIDES

Clockwise from top: Alan Barr of GreyMatters; Supper editor Harry McKinley with chef Andrew Nocente; Afroditi Krassa of AfroditiKrassa

Hilton Tower Bridge, she was joined in conversation

nearby The Address Downtown, where a farewell dinner

by Dino Michael, at the time senior director of global

sponsored by Scottish Development International

restaurant development for Hilton Worldwide and now

showcased the best of the nation’s produce. “I learnt

responsible for global brand development. “Hotel F&B

about new products and innovations as well as

spaces have to be multifunctional,” Krassa said. “No

reconnecting with known suppliers,” said Shane Giles

matter how good the concept, it has to be adaptable.”

(director of F&B concepts AMEA, InterContinental

Simon Lazarus, VP of F&B for EMEA, Hilton

Hotels Group) of the event. “75% of suppliers I met, I

Worldwide; Phil Broad, VP of F&B for EMEA,

will use over the coming 12 months.” Just a few weeks later, 7th – 10th October saw the Asian event take place at Four Seasons Hotel, Singapore.

“Hotel F&B spaces have to be multifunctional. No matter how good the concept, it has to be adaptable.”

The first full day of activity saw a demonstration and interview with chef Andrew Nocente of local restaurant 5th Quarter, housed within Hotel Vagabond. Conducted with Supper editor Harry McKinley, Nocente discussed his formative experiences working with Gordon Ramsay

InterContinental Hotels Group; and Achim Lenders,

and Jason Atherton, and presented delegates with

global VP of F&B, Starwood Hotels and Resorts, came

samples of his ‘contemporary grill’ cuisine. Renowned

together for the Top Operators Panel. Discussion

Singaporean chef and founder of Makansutra and World

covered the necessity of staff engagement, the need

Street Food Congress, KF Seetoh, also took centre stage

to diversify hotel F&B offerings and the increasing

during the event and engaged an audience of prominent

importance of tailoring F&B operations to more

operators with his thoughts on the cultural legacy of

localised regions.

food and how street food traditions can be translated

Closing proceedings, delegates decamped to the

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into the wider hospitality F&B sector. “If you look at


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SIDES

Food preparation at Four Seasons Singapore

“The format is different from other events, so I was able to have more focused meetings to learn about new products and also reconnect with known suppliers.”

at Mandarin Oriental, undoubtedly provide a valuable opportunity for delegates to exchange ideas, it is the rigourously scheduled meeting sessions that continue to be the pull for buyers and suppliers. Peter Finnegan, group director of F&B for Shangri-La International Hotels Management, explained, “The format is

the kinds of volumes of food being turned over by

different from other events, so I was able to have more

traditional street vendors who often serve just one or

focused meetings to learn about new products and also

two options, and the profits that accompany, it makes a

reconnect with known suppliers.”

strong case for more focused menus. Doing less doesn’t

2016 sees To The Table evolve, retaining the Asia

always mean fewer rewards. Do less but do those things

event but narrowing the field to a standalone MEA

better and customers will not only appreciate it, they’ll

forum – with a European addition to be added to the

engage with the product much more,” he said.

roster in 2017. “Each event is developing in its own

With a disruptive message of ‘go small or go home’,

way, in line with how restaurants are developing. It’s

GreyMatters’ Alan Barr delivered a rousing keynote on

our job to ensure that the seminars are covering the

restaurant trends, bestowing the virtues of succinct

relevant challenges and opportunities of each region,”

concepts in intimate spaces. “It’s not going to represent

said Wilson.

a hotel’s complete F&B offering,” he explained, “but smaller, specialised ideas should certainly be part of the mix.” While networking events, such as a cocktail evening sponsored by William Grant & Sons and a closing dinner

164

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PETITS FOURS

Italian Buffet Sambonet

Part of Sambonet’s Italian Buffet collection, the multilevel rack is a modular system intended to offer flexibility and afford F&B providers the option to customize depending on evolving requirements. Fashioned from wood, a range of additional, complementing pieces is available, including standard shelving and bowl holders – which can be slotted into place for buffet and banqueting. With the majority of serving solutions designed in the upright position, the Italian Buffet collection as a whole provides a remedy to the issue of limited surface space and is an understated but intelligently realized option for boutiques or hotels with a substantial offering. www.sambonet.it

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PETITS FOURS

Mesh Aqua

Artesano Barista

Representative of the current design trend for striking shades in hospitality tabletop, Rosenthal’s Mesh Aqua range combines vivid colour with a sense of texture. Produced in porcelain, the aqua hue imbued into the collection is melted into the glaze at 1000 degrees C, making the colour virtually indestructible. Scratch and wear resistant, pieces are tested by the Rosenthal Institute for Material Technology to ensure their performance over repeated use, while the unfussy, irregular patterning reflects a contemporary aesthetic.

Utilising clear, unconventional shapes, the Artesano Barista range is fundamentally informed by function. Cup shapes are designed to maximise aroma release and accentuate the coffee experience while the collection as a whole is comprised of more than 50 items, catering for diverse and adaptable use. Made in Germany from high quality Villeroy & Boch porcelain, pieces are certified chip resistant. An all-white colour palette affords both practicality and understatement, while allowing the distinctive, angular design to speak more directly.

Mixology

Balsa

An exercise in shape and colour, the Mixology collection from Waterford mixes classic and contemporary forms with brazen, eye catching neons and deep tints. Although representing the same commitment to quality that has become indicative of Waterford, the collection marks a playful departure for the crystal brand. The broad cuts of the material are intended to offer the perfect pour; the bold shapes to showcase artisan drinks and signature cocktails; and the dramatic colours to resonate with the vibrant energy of happy hour.

The slender, elongated forms of the Balsa cutlery collection from Studio William are designed for diners to tackle smaller food portion sizes. As chefs prioritise flavour and impact over quantity, so the Balsa collection is intended to provide more directed dining experiences, encouraging a focus on taste and texture. Made using the finest quality 18/10 stainless steel, subtle design touches account for comfort, such as delicate hooks on the knives, which provide a rest for the little finger during intensive tasting menus.

Rosenthal

Waterford

170

Villeroy & Boch

Studio William



Parmigiano Reggiano 速 #TheOnlyParmesan www.parmigianoreggiano.com


PETITS FOURS

Horse Decanter Riedel

Riedel has always been noted for its collection of dynamic and thoughtfully designed decanters, but the presence of these pieces in the hotel F&B sphere is becoming increasingly pronounced. The recently opened Dinner by Heston Blumenthal at the Crown Melbourne features a functional display of contrasting varieties. Debuted in the Chinese Year of the Horse, the Horse decanter is intended to reflect an equine profile and is hand made with fine crystal. More than pure design element, the concave horsehead aids in the decanting process, increasing the rate of oxygenation and improving aeration in red wine. www.riedel.com

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PETITS FOURS

Silver Time

Arden

With 19 pieces in silver, glass and linen, the Silver Time collection was completed as a collaboration with French design studio Massaud. A generous fountain raised on silver heels serves as a sleek centrepiece for coffee, tea or juices and a basin and ladle provides a functional but beautiful focal point. The collection revolves around the notion of the refined brunch, with items designed for typical midday fare – with a silver bread basket, silverplated glass storage jars and ultra-flat trays perfect for sharing platters.

Made from high quality 18/10 stainless steel, the Arden cutlery collection features a simple but striking tapered design, with fork, knife and spoon heads curving out of rounded handles. Pieces are crafted to provide ease of grip and knife blades are specially hardened to provide a practical cutting edge. The collection is also available with a mirror finish for heightened impact. Dishwasher safe and produced with an eye to durability and function, all pieces come with a 25-year warranty.

Theatre by FROM

Arris

Theatre by FROM is inspired by the principles of ancient Greek theatre. Referencing the small circular stage that was surrounded by the audience, so the wide rims of the plates place the chef’s work at the centre of attention. FROM was founded by Cesare Bizzotto, Manuel Amaral Netto and Tobias Nitsche - from Italy, Portugal and Germany – and this mix of perspectives and nationalities presents itself in the collection, which conveys a clean, European sensibility.

A modern take on references from the Wedgwood archive, Arris is a lifestyle and tableware collection led by design. Robert ‘Bob’ Minkin’s distinctive 1960s creations act as the muse for the angular profiles of the decorative ceramic and crystal ware. Opaque copper contrasts with glass in a statement champagne bucket and stemware. In the metalwork Wedgwood’s handcrafted techniques manifest in a recurring motif, with the method of cutting through layers of coloured Jasper to produce a relief pattern created by Wedgwood at Barlaston.

Christofle

Vista Alegre

174

Robert Welch

Wedgwood


Ronnefeldt’s tea concepts as individual as your guests are.

J.T. Ronnefeldt KG, KurfĂźrstenplatz 38, 60486 Frankfurt am Main, Germany T. +49 69 / 79 30 05-0 F. +49 69 / 79 30 05-38 E. info@ronnefeldt.de www.ronnefeldt.com



PETITS FOURS

Diamond

Vigne

Richard Brendon is a UK based designer who has previously collaborated with luxury department store Fortnum & Masons and whose collections are stocked by the likes of Bergdorf Goodman. Whilst his printed ceramic pieces have been displayed at the V&A Museum, Diamond marks a move into cut crystal barware and the development of a complete tabletop offering. Simple forms are mouth blown and then hand cut with a tight diamond pattern to the lower third and bottom of each piece.

A set of four heavy based tumblers comprise the Vigne collection, which emphasises rounded shapes and clean forms. The range is made from Kwarx, a revolutionary material developed by the group’s research centre that is described as ‘virtually unbreakable’ - although the formula remains closely guarded by ARC International. Incredibly resistant to everyday restaurant conditions, the tumblers have also been proven to retain their ‘sparkle’ wash after wash, having been tested with over 2000 cycles of industrial cleaning.

Copper Shaker

Supperleggero Champagne Wine Glass

Richard Brendon

Artis

Capitalising on the trend for copper pieces in barware, Artis’s copperplated range features a two-part shaker, a Japanese style jigger, bar spoon and strainer. Designed to function as part of the visual vernacular of the bar, copper accessories date back to the origins of mixology, with the material proving a robust option for combining ingredients. In addition to items for cocktail preparation, Artis’s collection also features five different styles of copper and copper-plated mugs for a cohesive drinks service.

Chef & Sommelier

Riedel

The Supperleggero Champagne Wine Glass represents an innovate approach to the serving of champagne. While the traditional coupe features a wide brim that diffuses the aromas of the champagne and the ever-popular flute offers only a one-dimensional experience, the Champagne Wine Glass – a version of a so-called tulip glass – offers breathing room whilst retaining the drink’s signature bubbles. Already advocated by champagne houses such as Dom Perignon, the distinctive shape continues to grow in popularity with aficionados, becoming an increasingly popular serving option in bars and restaurants.

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The Artis professional emporium Everything in one place for the table and bar

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PETITS FOURS

Purity

Bauscher With organic flowing curves inspired by the world of Botany, Purity from Bauscher is a dignified professional collection intended to engender a sense of ‘calm’. Round plates, oval platters and a variety of bowls can be combined to create a diverse selection of serving options, with ‘multifunctionality’ central to the design. Made in Germany, the pieces feature extreme glaze hardness that can withstand the pressures of industrial washing and are extremely chip resistant – setting a new standard for Bauscher products. Items also feature a thin glaze body and are made from revolutionary Noble China hard porcelain. www.bauscher.com

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PETITS FOURS

Coffee Pods CRU Kafe

Founded in 2013, CRU Kafe produces Nespresso compatible, eco-friendly pods using high altitude, fair trade and organic coffee. Working only with specialised farmers and producers in Ethiopia, Peru, Mexico, Tanzania and Indonesia, all partners employ traditional and certified organic farming methods. Available in five varieties: Light Roast, Dark Roast, Intense, Decaf and Honduras, CRU Kafe also offers its signature blends in whole bean form. “We firmly believe that taste should not be sacrificed in the name of convenience,” says founding partner John Quilter. “We have always felt that the prepackaged coffee pod process could be done in a more thoughtful way, which is why we use a fully recyclable pod to house our blend.” www.crukafe.co.uk

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VISION GERMANY

NOSTALGIC

INTENSE

BALANCED

STRAIGHT

RICH

FRESH

�You have never seen wine like this!“ The VISION:

Silvio Nitzsche WEIN | KULTUR | BAR, Dresden

No distinction is made between red wine or white wine glasses in the VISION collection by Zieher: the glasses are simply themebased or characterbased. The names of the glasses clearly explain what they are used for: You intuitively reach for the glass which presents the flavours of the wine that you particularly wish to emphasise in the best way. Filigree Craftsmanship meets Innovative Design

W W W. Z I E H E R . C O M Unbenannt-5 1

ow bl nd ha lly lfu sk i

Further information about VISION, its phillosophy and the detailled analysis by the sommelier Silvio Nitsche you will find via the QR-code or at www.zieher.com/en/products/vision.html

n

Zieher glasses are all about top quality craftsmanship, which is created in one of the most innovative and best glass blowing work- shops in the world. Each glass is unique and has been created from lead-free crystalline glass using a traditional, handblown method.

20.10.15 11:12


68


PETITS FOURS

Style

Creative

Available in both silver-plated and highly polished stainless steel, the Style cutlery range represented a new direction for producer Hepp when it was launched as part its 150th anniversary year. Inspired by architecture and automotive design, the 17-piece collection features angular lines, with chamfers on the handles. The spoon features a distinctive square shape, the knife has been constructed with a classically long blade and wide handle and each item features a high material strength of four millimetres.

Specialists in buffet solutions, Mogogo’s Creative range uses curved lines to aid in more efficient service delivery. Eliminating crowded service lines and reducing the number of waiters required, guests are afforded a more intimate and ordered experience. Composed of multifunctional, adaptable elements, the system can be tailored to individual needs and constructed in a variety of different iterations. The main panels are constructed from high density bamboo, covered with layers of water base UV lacquer and are 100% harder than red oak.

Neofusion

Nero Limited Edition

Every Neofusion piece has the strength of porcelain and the look of ceramic due to a highly durable, hand-sprayed, non-porous glaze. Available in six different colour ways - Magma, Volcano, Ember, Stone, Terra and Sand – items can be grouped together, mixed or combined with white porcelain to offer differing dining experiences and visual concepts. The raw appearance and dense colours are intended to provide a pleasing contrast between the pieces and the stylised, contemporary presentation of fine cuisine.

Where Swedish functionality meets Italian style, the Nero collection features black crystal glassware with decanters and glasses, numbered and signed by the designer. Decanters feature a custom Amish-made wooden stopper, highlighting the element of craft and juxtaposing the modern and traditional sensibilities present in the design. Born and raised in Sweden before moving to Florence, designer Daniele ‘Danne’ Semeraro honed his skills at range of design firms, from automotive companies to leading the design at a leading lighting manufacturer.

Hepp

RAK Porcelain

Mogogo

Sempli

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Indelb_SupperMag_Flyingbar236x275_uk.indd 2

02/12/15 11:03


PETITS FOURS

Omnia

Flow

Left for more than 50 hours in high temperature furnaces, Arthur Krupp’s porcelain pieces go through an intensive but careful firing process. The result is porcelain harder than standard steel with a resistance to thermal shocks and a notable lack of porosity. Manufactured in Selb, Upper Franconia, Arthur Krupp produces feldspathic porcelain, a particular variety of white porcelain known for its resistance, compactness and shine. In the Omnia collection this resistance is heightened with the introduction of reinforced edges.

A modular system designed around a gastronomic footprint, Flow from Craster caters for flexibility in service, presentation and display. Components come in two material ranges, Rustic, made from oak; and Refine made from walnut. Rustic focuses on variably sized, stackable trays that can be used with elevating stainless steel stands or the Flow trolley, which features retractable angled shelves and an extendable leaf. The Refine range, with a double lacquered finish, is designed primarily for countertop, with trays stackable for easy storage.

Liquorice by John Bülow

Kebony Tableware

Hand-made in Copenhagen, Lakrids liquorice is a premium take on a classic edible. With dynamic, contemporary packaging in compact sizes, it presents an alternative to traditional in-room snack options. Slow cooked for up to four hours, the liquorice demonstrates a caramel like texture and a distinctively concentrated flavour. Featuring cocoa butter from Peru, a rich agave syrup from Mexico and organic liquorice roots from Iran, Lakrids promise that “no other liquorice worldwide is produced using such luxurious ingredients and preparation techniques.”

Used on the tables of Noma, the range from Wahl&Ross is fashioned from Kebony wood, a high quality and dimensionally stable timber. The spoons were designed in collaboration with the restaurant as the perfect means with which to eat berries, while the bowls are intended to serve as works of art as well as practical serving pieces. Evocative of nature, the range also features serving boards and a geometric table jug that showcases the distinctive grain of the warmhued wood.

Arthur Krupp

Lakrids

Craster

Wahl&Ross

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PETITS FOURS

Aguila 220 Nespresso

Launched in 2011, the Aguila 420 was Nespresso’s first professional coffee machine and the recently revealed follow up, the Aguila 220, is designed to feature the same technology but with a significantly smaller footprint. Compact and durable, the Aguila 220 features an energy saving mode – reducing output by 50% when not in use – lowering usage costs and operating more sustainably. A ‘cash register link’ enables the machine to be connected directly to a restaurant or café’s payment system for more efficient service delivery, while two extraction heads work simultaneously and allow for faster beverage production during peak hours. www.nespresso.com

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F&B Connect 16/12/2015 18:03


PETITS FOURS

Buffet Wall

Artisan Chocolate Bars

The Buffet Wall system from Frilich aims to provide a space saving solution for the provision of high volumes of juices or other drinks. Made from stainless steel, the elegant system features a sturdy bracket onto which the dispensers are fixed, allowing them to be scaled much higher than usual whilst maintaining stability and reducing the counter space required. Cereal flutes and jam jars from the company’s Elegance line are also compatible with the ‘wall’, providing an adaptable option for high volume food services.

Already stocked at Philippe Starck designed Parisian hotel Mama Shelter, Le Chocolat des Français is a thoroughly French affair. From the packaging to the chocolate itself, each element is made in the country. Collaborating with various artists, every bar comes with a wonderfully unique package design making them not only a personal touch for guests but a collectible also. The eccentricity of the illustrations belies the sophistication of the product within, with bars made from the finest pure cocoa butter.

Buffet Presentation

Blackcurrant and Rosemary Vinegar

Frilich

Tiger

Although based in South Korea, Tiger calls upon the talents of Italian designer Giuliano Malimpensa for its Buffet Presentation line. A mix of hollowware and small ware, the range features food grade 18/10 stainless steel and a large variety of pieces, from a milk jar and ice dish to a caviar cup and candleholder. Known for his artistic metalwork, Malimpensa’s work has previously been sold at Sotheby’s and for Tiger he translates his decorative eye into pieces designed for both function and visual appeal.

Le Chocolat des Français

Womersley

Used in the kitchens of Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume and a favourite with chef Tom Aikens, Womersley provides a range of specialist fruit and herb vinegars. Despite inspired combinations such as golden raspberry and Apache chilli; lime, black pepper and lavender; and blackcurrant and rosemary, ingredients are kept to a minimum. The Blackcurrant and Rosemary features only a seemingly simple combination of spirit vinegar, sugar, blackcurrants (32%) and rosemary. “They are of a superb quality and have an exceptional taste & flavour,” says Aiken.

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MODULAR BUFFET SYSTEM BUFFET PRESENTATION HOLLOWWARE CHAFING DISHES URNS & DISPENSERS TROLLEYS

www.tigerhotel.co.kr

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13/11/2015 10:25:41


SIDES

Stepping Up to the Plate Director of Villeroy & Boch’s Hotel and Restaurant Division, we speak to Burkhard Schmidt about design, function and a rapidly changing market.

Villeroy & Boch has recently worked on several

professional range and how does it add to the

is definitely preferred to uptight formality. A big

customised collections for hotels. Can you tell

guest experience?

trend is the mixing of different materials, like

us about how you work collaboratively to create

Tableware is one of the essential categories in

porcelain, glass and natural materials or wood

these signature collections?

hospitality as hotel guests physically interact

and slate.

Villeroy & Boch has a ‘Special Design’ service

with it. A collection has to match the ambiance

We’ve recently launched the hotel collections

to provide customised designs to hotels and

and atmosphere of the hotel as tableware doesn’t

Artesano Professionale and Artesano Barista.

restaurants worldwide. Examples like the Hotel

only complement the food, it can enhance the

Through the mix of pure white premium

Eden Roc, the Waldorf Astoria in Jerusalem

customer’s overall experience. Quality and the

porcelain with natural materials such as acacia

or the world famous Venice Simplon-Orient-

visual effect play a decisive role for restaurants

wood, slate and naturally coloured cotton, the

Express are some of our most prestigious.

and hotels and provide that all-important first

collections present a special design language

impression. An individual design ultimately

ideal for varying culinary styles.

Our design team develops options in close communication with the client and through

highlights the exclusivity of the venue.

the Custom Made Solutions, or CMS, we can

What other trends do you see as being relevant

give them the exact tableware solutions they

We’re seeing a move towards a premium take

to Villeroy & Boch’s Hotel and Restaurant

desire – from personal icons to the name of the

on informality and a shift away from traditional

Division and the tableware sector generally?

restaurant or a complete pattern.

notions of formal fine dining. How has this

Besides the trend of mixing different materials,

impacted on Villeroy & Boch’s design practices

unconventional shapes and decoration are

What does having a specially designed

and product offering?

designed to underscore - subtly but insistently -

collection offer a hotel versus a more uniform

I agree, these days casual and modern elegance

the special exclusivity and quality of the cuisine.

191


SIDES

Villeroy & Boch Artesano Professionale

Customized solutions are very popular and will

Division, and the hospitality industry generally,

the World Expo Dubai 2020 and the World Cup

continue to be in the future. Another important

and how are you working to overcome them?

Qatar 2022. We have been active in the region

trend is bringing colour to the table and this is

A current challenge in the sector is ever changing

for the past 40 years and believe we have the

something we’ve translated into some of our

eating habits, influenced by globalisation and

formula in place to capitalise on the tremendous

own recent collections.

urbanization. The different styles of cooking and

growth expected in the hospitality market there

increasingly creative ways of presenting food

during the next five to six years. The market’s

require the appropriate professional tableware.

strong emphasis on unique and fashionable

What steps does Villeroy & Boch take to ensure it is always ahead of the curve in terms of

design aligns perfectly with Villeroy & Boch’s

industry trends?

What considerations does Villeroy & Boch

core values as a European premium brand. Also

Just as restaurants have to keep up with new

take into account when creating its hotel and

the focus on customization and exclusivity in the

trends and customers’ demands in terms of

restaurant collections, in terms of balancing

region allows for a symbiotic relationship, with

food, we have to meet international trends in

guest experience with practicality of design?

all of the wonderful new landmark hotels and

design and food. We’re always aiming to initiate

Convenient and practical features like stackable,

restaurants.

new trends with new products but we also

robust and replaceable items are criteria that

develop new series alongside already existing

matter a lot. Price also plays an important role.

What have been Villeroy & Boch’s recent

collections. Ideas for new designs come from

We do cater to different needs and expectations

success stories?

around the world by visiting international fairs

but in the end we’re a premium brand known

In 2014 we launched colourful collections like

and exhibitions and from the landscapes and

for quality and design. So we provide superior

Amarah and Janda and, as I mentioned, we

environments. The Villeroy & Boch archive is

solutions that meet expectations of both design

introduced Artesano Professionale and Artesano

also a great source of inspiration. We have an

and function.

Barista. Both series play with a trendy material

outstanding history and heritage to get inspire us.

192

mix and bring a contemporary spirit to the table You’ve highlighted the Middle East as a leading

and for this year there are more new ideas and

growth market for Villeroy & Boch. What are

designs in the pipeline.

What do you see as being some of the current

you doing to capitalise on this?

challenges facing the Hotel and Restaurant

There’s great potential, especially considering

www.villeroy-boch.com


NEW All you need for perfect coffee

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04.11.2015 10:01:29


ADVERTISING INDEX

93

201

Luigi Bormioli

ARC International

155

MangaJo

198

Artis 178

Milagro

091

The Balvenie Bartech

Mogogo

167

197

Oneida

043

Bauscher

041

Paderno

098

Bombay Sapphire

054

Parma Ham

176

Burrough’s Reserve

029

Parmigiano Reggiano

Chivas Regal

067

Penfolds

172 136 & 137

Christofle

052 & 053

Perrier-Jouët

Churchill China

046 & 047

RAK Porcelain

071

Reyka

045

Riedel

059

Robert Welch

204

Concept Bars Courvoisier Craster

187 010 & 011 117

006 & 007

Cru Kafe

077

Ronnefeldt

175

The Dalmore

027

Rosenthal GmbH

018

Fashionizer

063

Sambonet

097

Fever-Tree

151

Sanremo

109

Schönwald

057

Fracino

199

Franke

193

The Scottish Salmon Company

Frilich GmbH

196

Stolichnaya

GRIF

163

Studio William

Glenfiddich 037

Tafelstern

Global Knives

Talisker

Grey Goose

171 008 & 009

Tanqueray No.TEN

113 016 & 017 079 123 014 & 015 145

Harney and Sons

153

Taylors of Harrogate

127

Hendrick’s

141

Tiger Company

190

HEPP

081

To The Table Asia

195

Hotelympia

165

To The Table MEA

182

HX: The Hotel Experience

166

VEEN Waters

105

IndelB

184

Villeroy & Boch

004

iRiS Software

188

VOSS

139

Jura

168

Waterford Crystal

093

Kona Brewing Company

095

Wedgwood

024

WMF

125

Zieher

181

La Marzocco LSA International

194

012 & 013

023

101 156 & 157



NATURALLY SOURCED – The New Buffet Ambience www.frilich.de


OPEN THE DOOR TO HIGHER PROFITS AND LOWER LABOR COSTS Bartech minibars are designed to maximize profits from your minibar operation by optimizing efficiency and increasing guest satisfaction, while drastically reducing labor costs. With the industry’s only fully customizable designs and the most advanced technology, we can design a custom solution for your property that integrates with your existing systems and generates added in-room revenue – automatically!

Only the Bartech eDrawer offers: • Stocking capacity of up to 23 product types • Compressor cooling unit - less than 30 dB • Web/Windows based software • CESS (Computerized Energy Saving System) automatically controls temperature • Online guest consumption management • Remote in-room controls/tablets • Automatic expiration date management • Remote locking door (can be deactivated)

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For more information, contact us at: info@bartech.com • www.bartech.com


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Good to know • No added sugar • 100% natural ingredients • Iced green tea - still or sparkling • 250ml & 750ml glass, 330ml PET & 330ml can ranges

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THE WASHING UP

Thank you.

I hope that our first issue has provided you with insight and inspiration and, as we grow, we will continue to provide a platform showcasing developments within the global hotel F&B industry and its many facets. I’d like to thank all of those who have contributed to the completion of our launch issue: our writers, our advertisers and all of those whose advice and input has proved invaluable, including the Gorgeous Group’s Robbie Bargh, Puccini Group’s Heleri Rande, the team at CGA Strategy and our events partners. I’d also like to thank the pool of international PRs who have helped us to provide such a diverse global perspective - putting us up, putting us on planes and putting us at the tables and bars of the industry’s leading destinations. Finally I’d like to thank our new readers, who will continue to inform and define Supper as we move forward. I welcome your thoughts and you can drop me an email at h.mckinley@mondiale.co.uk with feedback, questions or suggestions. Until our next Supper. Harry McKinley | Editor

200





SIX DECADES OF DESIGN Email: hospitality@welch.co.uk

Online: robertwelch.com

Telephone: +44 (0)1386 840880


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