Supper 13

ISSUE 13

Jan Hartwig

The triple-Michelin-starred chef on his evolving cuisine and commitment to artistry

The Shanghai Edition

Jason Atherton, Ian Schrager and Neri & Hu join forces for a new landmark in the city’s F&B scene

The DogHouse

Craft beer company BrewDog ventures into hospitality with its debut hotel in Ohio

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INSIDE SUPPER

Setting Entrée

SPECIALS 007

Dining Downturn

SIPPING

Starters • Orania Restaurant

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Orania Berlin • Pink Pearl Appetisers

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036

On The Rocks

092

Whetting The Whistle

096

City Of Wine

100

Cocktails

104

JW Marriott Phú Quoc Emerald Bay, Vietnam

Straight in at Number One

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Trends and concepts impacting the world of

• The Black Bull

Drinks

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global hotel F&B

Sedbergh, Cumbria • Fritz & Felix

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Brenners Park Hotel & Spa, Baden-Baden • Openaire

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Line LA, California

SERVICE

EVENTS

Main Course To The Table Asia

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The Lounge

GulfHost

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One of only a handful of triple-Michelin-

Four Seaons Hotel Kuala Lumpur

Sleep + Eat

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starred chefs in Germany, Jan Hartwig talks of

• The English House

his unusual career path, constantly evolving

Singapore

cuisine and continued focus on artistry.

• Shanghai Tavern, Canton Disco

• Yun House, Bar Trigona and Jan Hartwig

020

044

048 052

and HIYA

SIDES

The Shanghai Edition Joe Schofield

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• Kerridge’s Bar & Grill

Award-winning mixologist Joe Schofield

Hotel Corinthia London

discusses learning his craft at The Savoy and

• The DogHouse

Tippling Club, launching an F&B consultancy

Columbus, Ohio

and opening his own bar.

• Le Collectionneur

058 066

Rethinking the Minibar Petits Fours

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The Washing Up

126 131 146

Hotel du Collectionneur, Paris • Bonnie’s

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Bank Hotel, Stockholm

SWEETS Cover: Jan Hartwig’s oyster pearl with sorrel and dulse © Lukas Kirchgasser Fotografie

Georgia’s Always On My Mind

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Signatures

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003

gracefully crafted interwoven design Exuding style and hidden strength, the Willow collection is perfect for all fine dining and banqueting environments. Offering multi-level presentations through a series of wide rim gourmet plates and a new modern mid rim plate, Willow provides an elevated presentation that will withstand the demands of a robust commercial environment. The addition of two rich colour glazes, which create a jewel like effect, add further beauty to this range. The glazes highlight and pick up the embossed design, and elevate the Willow presentation of key signature items.

C R E AT I V E D E S I G N L U X U RY H O S P I TA L I T Y horeca.lsa-international.com

Supper Magazine-Jan.Feb.March FINAL.indd 10

05/12/2018 11:17:44

ENTRée

Dining Downturn?

T

he UK’s bar and restaurant sector is in the midst

for the hotel sector? Over-saturation, changes in

of a crisis. As the nation continues to live in the

consumer habits and the growing popularity of food-

shadow of an impending Brexit, operators are

delivery services have all been cited as drivers but,

paying the ultimate price of a dining downturn.

overwhelmingly, it’s rising costs that have been named

Earlier this year, Jamie Oliver ran into financial

as the key culprit. Many of the raw ingredients used

trouble and was forced to close 12 of the 37 Jamie’s

in UK restaurants are imported from Europe, so with

Italian restaurants, stumping up £13 million of his own

the recent devaluation of the pound, food prices have

cash to save the chain. It has also been widely reported

soared, a headache that’s only set to intensify following

that high-street eatery Carluccio’s is in trouble too,

separation from the EU. The cost of labour, land, rent

with a restructuring programme that could see it close

and business rates has also had an impact, along with

dozens of restaurants. And perhaps the biggest casualty

a slump in consumer confidence leading to declines in

is pizza-and-pasta joint Prezzo, having closed almost

the out-of-home market.

100 of its sites with the loss of 500 jobs.

According to Supper’s sister company CGA – a data

It was initially thought that a consumer desire for

and insight specialist for the food and drink sector

more distinctive bars and restaurants was to blame for

– we’re operating in challenging times, but cautious

a drop in demand, with diners tiring of the formulaic

optimism is beginning to return, particularly for those

mass-market eateries found on many a high street

who can keep ahead of the game. In a report produced in

up and down the country. But smaller, independent

conjunction with UK Hospitality, CGA analysts revealed

operators have taken a hit too. In Supper’s home city

that two-thirds of leaders were optimistic about

of Manchester, for example, high-profile closures

prospects for their business over the next 12 months

have included Gary Neville and Ryan Giggs’ fine-

– higher than in nearly every other survey since the

dining establishment The Rabbit, as well as Living

Brexit vote of 2016.

Ventures’ flagship Manchester House – both vying for

Hotel F&B is undoubtedly affected by the ups and

Michelin-star status – along with a dozen other popular

downs of the high street, but naturally benefits from the

nightspots. And the downturn isn’t only hitting the

multiple revenue streams of the traditional hotel model,

regions; London restaurant closures are at their highest

with MICE business or room revenue able to cover any

level in decades, a far cry from the seemingly relentless

shortfalls in the bar or restaurant. A crowded market

growth seen in recent years. Sir Terence Conran’s F&B

and consumer appetite for new and exciting venues

division called in administrators in the summer and, in

could however force hotel operators to accelerate their

another blow, D&D Group pulled out of operating its

typical seven-year refurbishment cycle and reinvent

four outlets at the Royal Exchange sending shockwaves

their concepts on a more regular basis. In an age in

through the industry.

which guests are constantly on the lookout for novel and

So what is going on? And what does it mean

one-of-a-kind experiences, this could be no bad thing.

Catherine Martin | Managing Editor

007

THE BRIGADE P O R T FO LI O @suppermag

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Setting

Trends and developments in the global F&B sector

“The ways in which hotels are becoming more casual largely has more to do with the customs surrounding food and drink rather than the food and drink itself.�

The Hotel Casual report by Steelite

APPETISERS

Acknowledging Allergens Following a number of high-profile allergen-related deaths, pressure is mounting for the F&B industry to change its approach to menu labelling.

012

The topic of food labelling has come to the fore once again

labelling and a UK-wide shortage of the EpiPen, a device that

after three allergen-related deaths were widely reported in the

can save lives in allergic emergencies.

UK press. In the spotlight on two occasions was high-street

The introduction of new government legislation may

retailer Pret a Manger, which has since stated it will begin

yet prove decisive. Environment Secretary Michael Gove

to list all ingredients – including allergens – on its freshly

has pledged to pursue changes in allergen labelling, while

made products. Despite the potentially serious ramifications

Prime Minister Theresa May has urged the Department

of food allergies, Pret has not broken any labelling laws; the

for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs to review its food-

UK’s Food Information Regulations 2014 do not require a

labelling laws, suggesting that new legislation is likely. Since

specific allergen label to be attached to food that is prepared

the UK government’s stance was outlined, food-delivery

on-site before sale. And while the ‘pre-packed for direct

brand Deliveroo has committed to overhauling its app with a

sale’ classification states that information about 14 EU-listed

new menu-display system, providing customers with a dish-

allergens must be provided, businesses can choose how to

by-dish breakdown of the 14 EU-listed allergens.

share the data with consumers, be that on a sign, via the

For hotels, there are several potential solutions to the

menu or through conversations with staff. So are the rules

problem. Where chains such as Hyatt, Wyndham and

still fit-for-purpose?

Fairmont have in the past experimented with everything from

Figures from the Food Standards Agency (FSA) suggest

bedding to air-purification systems to create hypoallergenic

not, with UK hospitals treating around 4,500 allergen-related

guestrooms, today’s hotel F&B venues may look to follow

admissions each year, ten of which result in death. Amongst

a similar approach in creating allergen-friendly spaces.

the younger generation living with intolerances, a lack of

Educating staff is surely another worthwhile strategy given

resolution in requesting information has become the sticking

the fact that over half of those with intolerances (56%) rely

point. Further research from the FSA, in partnership with

on chefs and waiting staff for guidance, according to research

Allergy UK and Anaphylaxis Campaign, shows that of those

by the University of Bath on behalf of the FSA.

aged 16-24 with a food allergy – who were aware of the legal

There is little doubt that a rise in food allergies is having

requirements of food businesses – only 14% felt confident

a profound impact on the hospitality industry, with hotels

in demanding information, with another 14% lacking any

being forced to adapt menus to accommodate changing

confidence at all in doing so. The study also found that more

dietary requirements. And with new government legislation

than half of young people polled had avoided eating out

looming large, now is the time for operators to act thoroughly

of home in the past six months due to concerns over food

on this potentially life-and-death issue.

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APPETISERS

The Importance of Taking it Easy As younger diners steer away from formality, fussiness and the fast pace of life, F&B takes a decidedly more casual approach.

014

As the next generation of diners steps up to the plate with

haircuts, tattoos and uniforms as perceptions regarding

a new list of preferences, the restaurant model as a whole

previously frowned-upon characteristics change.

is adjusting itself. In an attempt to appeal to customers

“The ways in which hotels are becoming more casual

who either do not recognise or outright reject the old ways,

largely has more to do with the customs surrounding food

the form and function of eating out – from dress codes to

and drink than food and drink itself,” the report states.

cutlery (or lack thereof) – is undergoing a period of change,

“People still want exceptional food, attentive service and

one largely defined by the casualisation of experiences across

surroundings that add to the whole experience. They just

the spectrum.

want it on their terms.”

Within the aptly titled Hotel Casual, a 2018 report by

Where there is undoubtedly still a place in the market

tableware manufacturer Steelite International, the shifting

for traditional dining rooms and three-course meals,

attitudes towards F&B experiences are outlined. Comfort,

Steelite’s predicted future is one that embraces a less rigid,

informality and flexibility are in, whilst the strict parameters

hegemonised system and consequently a wider range of

imposed upon diners by more traditional approaches are out.

concepts and models, thus enabling more socially diverse

“What casualisation is really about is making people feel

F&B experiences to thrive across the board.

comfortable,” explains Marcha Workel, F&B Manager at Hotel

Eschewing the traditional F&B archetypes, as Uber Eats,

Indigo London – Aldgate, within the report. “And that’s the

Deliveroo and a swathe of pop-up street stalls have done

right way for hotels to embrace the shift – not to copy the

to great success, is changing the way we eat and drink, and

high street, or pretend to be something they’re not.”

casualisation is no different. Although it might take a while

In place of the set meal times, strict dress codes and rigid

– this is a slow-burning movement, one likely to manifest

three-course service that many diners have come to expect,

itself gradually over time – it could ultimately prove to be the

the report suggests that hotels could prepare for the future of

catalyst for greater heterogeneity, and a platform from which

F&B by embracing the values of the next generation. As such,

new concepts and experiences can grow.

Hotel Casual predicts the rise of unconventional alternatives

As the pace of life speeds up, and the value of free time is

in the vein of dishes intended to be eaten with hands during

reassessed, perhaps it’s time to take stock and listen to those

a particularly brief working lunch, culture-specific cutlery

calling for new approaches to hotel F&B. After all, those same

like chopsticks, and flexibility in terms of service and menu

people will be picking up the cheque in years to come and,

times. Likewise, this mellowing out could bleed into service

if their desires are not being fulfilled, then why would they

too, with operators taking more relaxed stances on staff

ever return?

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APPETISERS

Experience is Everything Drinks companies are building relationships with customers by offering immersive brand experiences on their doorstep.

Plenty of distilleries open their doors to the general public

either. A case in point is Pernod Ricard UK, which launched its

these days, recognising that any inconvenience caused by

own experiential events space in Manchester last year – the

allowing visitors onsite is far outweighed by the benefit

company’s first venue outside London. The Loft, a 6,000ft2

of developing meaningful relationships with prospective

space with a fully stocked bar and function room, really comes

customers. But where does this leave drinks brands that might

to the fore when showcasing different drinks products within

not readily lend themselves to parading tour groups around

its portfolio through ticketed brand activations, ranging from

the factory floor, those that are simply too far removed

whisky-blending workshops for Chivas Regal to espresso

geographically from key target markets? Should they just

martini masterclasses for Kahlúa.

accept that these customers may never be able to make the

Pernod Ricard UK’s space is clearly targeted at members

pilgrimage to see where the magic happens for themselves?

of the public, but winning over those within the bar and

Perhaps understandably, the world’s top drinks companies

beverage industry is vital in generating buzz too, which may

are no longer willing to accept these constraints on the reach

explain the lengths Beam Suntory took to wow attendees at

of their experiential endeavours, with several now reasoning

Bar Convent Berlin in October. The Chicago-based spirits

that if customers can’t come to them, they’ll just have to take

company’s installation, ‘Experience the World of Senses’, had

their message out to the masses and deliver genuine brand

dedicated multisensory rooms for its featured spirits to help

engagement on a more proactive basis.

better immerse guests in the brands: Maker’s Mark recreated

Take Johnnie Walker, for example, which recently opened

the sounds of a Kentucky barrel room and invited guests to

its first flagship experiential store; rather than being located

draw bourbon straight from the cask, Roku Gin underlined its

in the brand’s spiritual home of Scotland or Diageo HQ in

Japanese credentials by serving cocktails on a whirring sushi

London, this trailblazing shop is actually situated in Madrid

conveyor belt, and Sipsmith offered up juniper aromas next

due to Scotch’s longstanding popularity in Spain. The outlet

to a visual manifestation of its London roots in the form of a

features a tasting table where guests can learn about flavour

full-sized Hackney carriage.

profiles, an interactive area where they can try their hand

In the drinks world, Diageo, Pernod Ricard and Beam

at cocktail-making, and a retail space selling both classic

Suntory wield a huge amount of influence, their priorities

whiskies and limited-edition collaborations exclusive to the

shaping what gets served in hotel bars around the world. With

store, all presented in a welcoming environment filled with

all three taking their brands on the road in 2018, the old adage

bars, barrels and Johnnie Walker branding.

that ‘experience is everything’ has never been more true than

Outreach activity like this is not just limited to capital cities

016

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SERVICE

Profiling leading figures with a fresh take on hotel F&B

“I love using local produce, but the quality of the ingredients is more important than where it comes from.�

Jan Hartwig, Head Chef of Atelier at Hotel Bayerischer Hof

SERVICE

Three-Star Sensation One of only a handful of triple-Michelin-starred chefs in Germany, Jan Hartwig talks of his unconventional career path, constantly evolving cuisine and continued focus on artistry.

Words: Kerstin Kühn • Photography: © Lukas Kirchgasser (unless otherwise stated)

A

s a city, Munich might be better known for beer and sausages than its fine-dining culture. But it was here that Michelin first awarded a German restaurant three stars, almost 40 years ago in 1979. Aubergine, by famous Austrian chef Eckart

Witzigmann, was only the third three-star restaurant outside France at the time, and in 1981 Heinz Winkler’s Tantris, also in Munich, became the fourth. However, after Winkler left in 1991 and Aubergine closed in 1994, Munich was without a three-star restaurant for almost a quarter of a century. Until last year, when a young chef named Jan Hartwig made culinary history.

Yet there had been a time when Hartwig swore he’d never become a chef. Aged 15, during a work placement at a country pub in northern Germany, he was told to prepare 3,500 pork dumplings for a wedding party. “It was a hot day in the middle of August, everyone was on holiday and I was stuck in the cellar by myself making dumplings,” he recalls. “That’s when I decided: this job is not for me!”

Fortunately his conviction was short-lived. And now, some 20 years later, Hartwig is not just a chef, but one of an elite group of only 11 triple-Michelin-starred chefs in Germany. His stellar rise to the top is impressive not simply because, at 35, he was one of the youngest chefs ever to receive the guide’s top accolade, but also because this came after little more than three years at the helm of his first solo restaurant, Atelier, at the Hotel Bayerischer Hof in Munich.

Pork belly, smoked miso hollandaise and umami broth

Photography: Š Benjamin Monn

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SERVICE

“I don’t ever want to be typecast. I always want to be able to change, improve and refine my dishes without being constrained by a certain way or philosophy of cooking.”

Hartwig is somewhat of a bellwether of German haute cuisine. He

Things really started to take off for Hartwig in 2005, when he joined

spent his formative years training not under the godfathers of the

the kitchen team of double-Michelin-starred Restaurant Kastell in

country’s fine-dining establishment such as Witzigmann and Winkler,

Wernberg-Köblitz, then under the reign of future three-star chef

but under their disciples. His teachers are the ones who learned from

Christian Jürgens. “Kastell was the first proper fine-dining restaurant I

the greats but liberated themselves from their devotion to classic French

ever worked in and to be honest it was a huge shock to me,” he admits.

cooking and he, in turn, has emancipated himself from his mentors. For

“Jürgens is a hard taskmaster and his kitchen operated at high speed. I

Hartwig defines his cooking style as undefined. “I don’t ever want to

did 16-hour days, six days a week, and I don’t think I have ever worked

be typecast,” he insists. “I always want to be able to change, improve

harder in my entire life. The following year, Hartwig worked under Klaus

and refine my dishes without being constrained by a certain way or

Erfort at Gästehaus Erfort, a then double-Michelin-starred restaurant in

philosophy of cooking.” As such his cuisine is contemporary, progressive

Saarbrücken (it now holds three stars). “He was a great, intuitive cook,

and cosmopolitan; constantly evolving, never standing still.

who really understood flavours,” he reflects.

Hartwig’s path to the upper echelons of fine-dining in many ways

But his most formative years came from 2007 to 2014, when he

has a touch of fate about it. For gastronomy seems to be in his blood,

worked at Aqua, the renowned triple-Michelin-starred restaurant at

with both parents working in the restaurant business. “Food and getting

The Ritz-Carlton in Wolfsburg, led by Sven Elverfeld, where he was

together as a family around the dinner table has been an integral part

first sous and then head chef. He speaks of his years at Aqua with such

of my life for as long as I can remember,” he says. “While my parents

exuberance, it’s clear that Elverfeld is more than just a mentor to him.

never pressured me to follow in their footsteps, they always made me

“He’s the most genuine person I know,” he enthuses, adding that

feel like gastronomy was not just a great industry to get into, but also

working at Aqua taught him, more than anything, how to be a leader.

a respectable career choice, despite the stigma of unsociable hours and

“Sven has an amazing way with people, he’s an incredible person, a

poor pay.”

brilliant chef and I can honestly say that I deeply respect him both on a

He completed his initial culinary training at Restaurant Dannenfeld

professional and a human level.”

in Braunschweig, which at the time was the only Michelin-starred offer

As Elverfeld’s right-hand man at Aqua, Hartwig’s profile began to

in his native Lower Saxony, in north-central Germany. “The restaurant

rise. In 2013, he won industry magazine Rolling Pin’s Sous Chef of the

was split into an informal, all-day brasserie serving breakfast, lunch and

Year award. And in 2014, the time came for him to spread his wings

dinner, and a small, 18-cover fine-dining restaurant, which gained its

and run his own restaurant. He was headhunted by the owner of Hotel

first star while I worked there,” he says. “It was a good restaurant.”

Bayerischer Hof to take over its fine-dining restaurant Atelier, which at

Hartwig’s training then took a turn in a slightly different direction,

the time held one Michelin star. Not only did Hartwig retain that star in

when he joined German dinner-theatre extravaganza Pomp Duck and

his first year, having been thrown into the deep end (“when I started,

Circumstance in Berlin. “I went there because I really wanted to live in

I didn’t even know where the pans were!”), he added a second star just

Berlin,” he recalls. “It was extreme in that it was so completely different

a year later, and also won the Chef of the Year award from German

to anything I’ve ever done before or after. The job there was all about

culinary bible Der Feinschmecker.

timing and logistics, catering en masse for 400 diners each night.”

Rising to three stars only two years after that, in 2017, sealed

This was followed by a stint at the Bundeswehr as part of Germany’s

Hartwig’s reputation as a leading light of the culinary world. “It was

former compulsory army service, where he cooked for servicemen at the

insane,” he admits. “On that day, I cried my eyes out. I was proud,

Offizierskasino Achum. “I joined the army because I knew I’d be able to

happy and excited, but also scared. The thing is, if you win a gold medal

continue cooking there,” he explains. “It was not about fine-dining; it

at the Olympics, nobody can ever take that away from you. I have to

was all about pasta, potatoes and rice to fill everyone up.”

regain my gold medal every night.”

Hartwig insists that through every single one of his work experiences

Hartwig focuses his light and creative cooking on top-quality

he learned a valuable lesson. And while the army may not have honed

products. Rooted in classic cuisine, his contemporary dishes place

his techniques, it taught him to cook for a lot of people on a very small

emphasis on single ingredients, highlighting what’s on the plate without

budget. “Of course there are parts of the job that aren’t fun. Nobody

unnecessary fuss or table theatrics. Regionalism and sustainability are

enjoys scaling 30 fish or peeling 50kg of potatoes. But it’s all part of the

important – “we have a responsibility” – but he refuses to be restricted

game and everything is important because you learn something every

or characterised by them. “I love using local produce, but the quality of

step of the way, even if that’s how not to do something.”

the ingredient is more important to me than where it comes from. There

023

SERVICE

Sardine, parmesan and piement d’espelette

is no John Dory in the Isar and nobody making soya sauce in Munich for

Featuring 337 guestrooms including 74 suites, it’s not just one of

instance, but that doesn’t mean I won’t use them in my kitchen.”

Germany’s most iconic hotels, but also a member of Leading Hotels

Hartwig says he finds inspiration everywhere – on a nature walk,

celebrities and guests of state alike, set in the heart of Munich along

up anew each day and walk through this world with open eyes, ready

the central Promenadeplatz. Having survived near complete destruction

to absorb, learn and allow myself to reflect on what’s around me,” he

during World War II, its longevity brings with it a carefully preserved

explains. Reluctant to admit to signature dishes, he eventually points

sense of historic grandeur, yet without seeming stale or musty. Indeed,

to his pork belly, served with daikon, smoked miso hollandaise and an

the hotel has undergone countless additions and refurbishments, most

umami broth poured from an oriental teapot - as well as his Thai-style

recently the completion after 18 months of a new south and north

Carabinero prawn - as the only constants on his menus. Both creations

wing by Vervoordt, complete with 29 new guestrooms including a

highlight a nod to Asian influences, a devotion to balance and harmony

350m2 Penthouse Garden Suite with three terraces overlooking the

of flavour, as well as a focus on artistry. After all, his restaurant, Atelier,

city of Munich. Further updates are already in the planning. “There’s

is named after an artist’s workshop.

always a building crane outside,” Hartwig jokes. “Bayerischer Hof is an

Housed inside the historic, 177-year-old Hotel Bayerischer Hof, the

incredible, historic and prestigious hotel. It’s multifaceted in its rooms

restaurant – like much of the hotel – has been designed by Belgian

and restaurants, with seven different F&B outlets, and it’s fantastic for

architect Axel Vervoordt. The interior exudes the luxurious and tasteful

me to be based in such a grand property. It provides me as a chef with a

flair of an artist’s atelier combined with an intimate atmosphere. A cosy

wonderful stage on which to showcase my cooking.”

private dining room, a small exclusive terrace with the so-called Silent

Hartwig represents a new generation of German chefs, but his

Garden adds a special charm, while a mix of traditional and modern

pedigree alone did not garner him his extraordinary success. His

furniture and dark-grey stone floors complete a sense of understated

constant desire to improve, his need to see the world afresh each day

luxury, almost at odds with its opulent surroundings.

and to learn something new even from the mundane make him one

For the Bayerischer Hof is Munich’s only true grande dame among

024

of the World. It continues to be the city’s foremost destination for

driving in his car, or even sitting in a dentist’s waiting room. “I wake

of the most innovative and interesting young chefs cooking today.

its hotels. Built in 1841 by King Ludwig I’s favourite architect Friedrich

He effortlessly balances confidence with humility, individuality

von Gärtner, it remains under the private ownership of the Volkhardt

with openness and ambition with modesty. Munich once again has a

family, who first acquired the property more than 120 years ago.

restaurant at the very highest level of gastronomy.

Visit us at:

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A new look in oven dishes: gastronorm sizes, designed with Michelin star chef Vito Mollica.

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Fancy a Tipple?

Award-winning mixologist Joe Schofield discusses learning his craft at The Savoy and Tippling Club, launching an F&B consultancy and opening his own bar.

Words: Richard Frost

J

oe Schofield is clearly a man in demand. He’s

bold decision to call time on his award-winning spell

just finished a knockout presentation on the

at Tippling Club this summer, leaving Singapore

main stage at trendsetting trade show Bar

to embark on a mammoth 22-country trip taking

Convent Berlin alongside Bacardi Brown-

in the likes of South Korea, Indonesia, Slovakia,

Forman’s UK Head of Brand Advocacy Shervene

England, China, Japan, Thailand, Ukraine, Germany

Shahbazkhani and Matt Whiley, founder of drinks

and Vietnam. The mixologist’s lively Instagram

consultancy Talented Mr Fox, and is now surrounded

feed records some of his many adventures along

by industry types keen to grab a few words with the

the way, from guest-bartending slots at Park Hyatt

man himself.

Saigon, Jing An Shangri-La in Shanghai and Hotel

Schofield’s remarkable rise to the top was

show Barometer – even the small matter of his own

International Bartender of the Year at the Tales of

wedding in Bratislava.

the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2018 in New Orleans and

When we finally manage to extract Schofield from

Bartenders’ Bartender at the World’s 50 Best Bars

the maelstrom at Bar Convent Berlin, it’s a relief

2018 in London. This recognised his achievements

to find that all this globetrotting hasn’t gone to

in Singapore as Head Bartender of Tippling Club,

his head and he remains reassuringly level-headed

where alongside chef Ryan Clift he redefined

and unfailingly polite. “Thanks for your patience,

what is possible when food and drink specialists

you always get mobbed at the end of seminars,” he

collaborate, conceiving and executing a pair of

jokes. “It’s been a crazy few months, I’m essentially

cocktail menus that made a huge impression both at

living out of a suitcase until December with all

home and abroad. During his two-and-a-half-year

these events going on one after the other. I haven’t

stint at Tippling Club, the venue was named Best

had eight hours’ sleep for a while – and that’s not

International Restaurant Bar at the 2017 Spirited

through partying unfortunately. But I realise I’m very

Awards, ranked 31st at the World’s 50 Best Bars 2017,

fortunate to be in a position where I get invitations to

and reached seventh in Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2018.

go out, do pop-ups and talk at seminars.”

On the back of all this success, Schofield took the

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Amano in Berlin to speaking engagements at trade

underscored this year when he was named

Nobody could accuse Schofield of shying away

from a bit of hard graft in order to get where he is today.

was a huge step up – I was actually running five bars for

His first job in the industry was an after-school gig working

the group – but I think that working previously in a hotel

behind the bar at a traditional pub, The Boars Head, just

environment made that transition a little bit easier for me,”

down the road from his parents’ house in Rossendale,

he remembers. “At a hotel like The Savoy, you have to work

northern England; it might be a world away from the sort

with different kinds of people, not just those from an F&B

of venues usually associated with Bar Convent Berlin, but

background. A lot of the managers can be quite corporate,

he still learnt some valuable lessons. “There weren’t too

for example, and so you learn how to communicate with

many cocktail requests, but I think it was an important

them more effectively.”

part of my career,” he recalls. “I learnt the basics, how

Head Bartender at one particular venue within the group’s

worked at cocktail joint Jake’s Bar in Leeds and was part of

portfolio. Tippling Club, founded by Clift in 2008, had

the opening team at tiki bar The Liars Club in Manchester

already gained a sizeable reputation for its progressive,

before upping sticks and moving to Australia, spending six

avant-garde cuisine and it was hoped that the highly

months in Sydney serving customers at Prohibition-style

rated mixologist could help elevate the drinks offering to a

bar Palmer & Co for Merivale, followed by six months in

similar standard.

Melbourne with Rockpool Dining Group.

Schofield and Clift immediately set to work creating what

He then swapped Australia for London to further his

would eventually become the Sensorium menu, a range

education behind the bar, but in 2014 was on the verge of

of cocktails exploring the memory-triggering properties

moving again – this time to South America – when fate

of different aromas, in collaboration with International

intervened. “I’ve always loved The Savoy, I used to go

Flavors & Fragrances (IFF). It took ten months to develop

there for drinks before I started working there. It’s a crazy

the menu – during which time, they lived in constant fear

story really, I had a one-way ticket booked to go and live

that another bar would roll out the same concept – but

in Buenos Aires and then, a week before my departure,

the hard work paid off when the launch was rapturously

a friend heard there was a role going at The Savoy and

received. In an experience quite unlike anything else

suggested I apply. So I put my name forward and the rest is

available in Singapore at the time, guests were presented

history, but I very nearly went down a completely different

with a cocktail strainer containing 12 scent strips bearing

path.” The Savoy proved to be a smart move as Schofield

names like Pear, Caramel, Leather, Jasmine, Earl Grey,

spent the next 18 months honing his bartending skills at

Grass, Orange and Rain; these aromas often evoked positive

both The American Bar and The Beaufort Bar, working

memories in their own right, but they also helped drinkers

alongside some of the best mixologists in the business; one

choose the corresponding cocktails that best suited their

of his mentors was Eric Lorincz, The American Bar’s Head

palates. “I like Rain,” explains Schofield. “The aroma of

Bartender at the time, who Schofield freely admits has been

Rain is very personal to me as I come from Manchester. I

an enormous influence on his career. Curiously enough,

love the concept and the smell, it’s just so unique and it

Lorincz is a previous winner of the same International

makes me think of home.”

Bartender of the Year title that now belongs to Schofield.

Some might have settled in for the long haul at The

028

Most of Schofield’s time, however, was spent working as

to talk to regulars and pull a good pint.” After that, he

Inspired by the rainy city itself, Rain is a remarkably complex cocktail, with a homemade ‘rain spirit’ as its

American Bar and The Beaufort Bar, both of which were

base and an ‘edible raincloud’ to garnish. For the spirit,

named in the World’s 50 Best Bars 2015, but instead

the theory goes that drops of water hitting the ground

Schofield’s relentless drive to improve pushed him to try

cause a molecule called geosmin to be released into the air,

something new, and he duly secured the role of Group

something that is also evident in beetroot; so the team chop

Bar Manager with Singapore-based lifestyle specialist Spa

up the vegetable and combine it with vodka, then distil

Esprit Group at the start of 2016. “Being Group Bar Manager

this using a rotary evaporator. For the edible raincloud,

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“The aroma of Rain is very personal to me as I come from Manchester. I love the concept and the smell, it’s just so unique and it makes me think of home.”

meanwhile, eggs, yoghurt powder, sugar and cornflour are put into a soda siphon and left overnight, then heated in a microwave, at which point the mixture puffs up ready to be reshaped into cloud-like forms.

A year later, Schofield, Clift and IFF collaborated again on an ambitious new project. Billed as the world’s first edible cocktail menu, Dreams & Desires presented guests with a candy bag containing 12 edible gummy bears with names such as Happiness, Holiday, Beauty, Success, Power, Lust, Revenge and Super Car; the idea being that patrons use these flavour profiles to help them choose a cocktail of the same name, and perhaps simultaneously discover something about their own personalities. All of the sweets were made by the bar staff themselves in a truly mammoth undertaking, with Schofield revelling in the absurdity of his team making as many as 1,200 a day. “When you put down a bag of gummy bears on the table, customers don’t understand how much effort goes into that, but it’s a

Rain cocktail featuring homemade rain spirit and an edible raincloud

staggering amount,” he says. “It’s days and days of work.”

Happiness was the most popular drink on the Dreams & Desires menu, represented in the candy bag by a yellow gummy bear with flavour notes of lemon and honey.

in cocktail-making, and evidently feels just at home in

“Through our research, we discovered that people associate

the lab as behind the bar. Perhaps the menus also reflect

citrus notes with happiness, which is why you get a lot

his down-to-earth personality and inclusive approach.

in perfumes and aftershaves,” Schofield explains. “Our

The cocktails on each were deliberately sold at the same

Happiness cocktail was essentially a textured citrus drink.

price point – every Dreams & Desires cocktail was SG$24

We had yuzu, lemon, orange flower water, honey and

(US$17) for example – to encourage guests to choose drinks

tequila, and then it was garnished with an edible smiley-

based on personal taste rather than worrying about the

face tab – basically a passion-fruit sherbert that dissolved

cost of picking ones with more expensive ingredients like

on your tongue.”

champagne, sherry and cognac.

Both menus clearly demonstrate Schofield’s passion for

Schofield’s time in Singapore has now come to an end,

incorporating science into his art. Far from conforming

but that does not mean the collaboration with Clift is over.

to the stereotype of a macho bartender with little time

This summer, the pair launched a new F&B consultancy

for subtlety and nuance, he instead loves nothing more

together called Sensorium, promising to draw on the

than detailing the finer aspects of the chemistry involved

successful Tippling Club model to push the boundaries of

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The Sensorium menu was presented in the form of 12 scent sticks

“We’ll also be offering food consultancy and running standalone properties – basically Sensorium covers all aspects of F&B.”

talked about it ever since we got into the industry, we just had to wait for the right time. Mum, Dad, your boys are coming home.”

For most of our interview, Schofield is a picture of self-control, a softly spoken figure who picks his words carefully, but there is no mistaking the unbridled enthusiasm when conversation turns to going back home.

His mild Mancunian accent has also never been so evident as it is right now. The concept behind the new venue

what can be achieved in the hospitality sector. “We’ve got

has already been decided – “a classic cocktail bar with

a couple of projects coming up, the first of which involves

exceptional drinks, great music and warm hospitality” –

doing some cocktail menus,” Schofield reveals. “We’ll

and he laughs off any suggestion that they might look to

also be offering food consultancy and running standalone

stay behind the scenes rather than getting stuck in at the

properties – basically Sensorium covers all aspects of F&B.”

bar mixing cocktails whenever they can. “We’ll be there as

Separately, he’s also working on a project with his brother Daniel that is obviously a real labour of love. He and Daniel, who worked at Coupette in east London when

030

much as possible,” he affirms. “After all, it’s got our name above the door.”

This makes perfect sense when you think about it,

it scooped Best New International Cocktail Bar at the Tales

because Schofield is obviously not someone who does

of the Cocktail Spirited Awards 2018, plan to open a new

anything by halves. His days of working at The American

cocktail bar called Schofield’s in Manchester in early 2019.

Bar, The Beaufort Bar and Tippling Club may be behind

The pair shared details of their next steps in a heart-

him, but he gives the impression of being more determined

warming joint statement this summer, saying: “We will be

than ever to make a success of his latest ventures as he

fulfilling our dream since we started working in bars and

returns home to the rainy city that inspired one of his most

opening our own place next year in our home city. We’ve

celebrated cocktails.

MENU VEHICLES DESIGNED AND CRAFTED TO FIT ANY SPACE

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Specials

Exploring the concepts behind new hotel F&B venues

“I am an old-fashioned restaurateur. I sit with my clients and I eat with my clients. But I watch the room, I watch everything.�

Marco Pierre White, owner of The English House

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Photography: © Fridolin Full

Orania Restaurant Orania Berlin

The Art Nouveau home of 41-room boutique Orania Berlin in hip

much more intimate after dark with the drawing of floor-length curtains,

Kreuzberg has long been associated with combining quality food, drink and

separating diners from the rest of the hotel. Its menu serves plenty of

entertainment in beautiful surroundings. When the five-storey building

sharing plates, most notably a four-course deconstruction of the classic

first opened in 1913, the ground floor was set aside for Oranienpalast

Peking duck recipe, alongside a generous à la carte offering in which

Kaberett Café, a venue famed for hosting outstanding concerts and cabarets

each creation showcases three main components. Berlin’s cosmopolitan

under the direction of Oscar Barton.

outlook is in full evidence here, with dishes ranging from a hearty pumpkin

Now owned by Dietrich von Boetticher, the property has returned to its roots thanks to clever positioning by Managing Director and Head Chef

salad with grapefruit and rocket; and eggplant with miso and wakame; to luxurious braised ox cheek with leek and creamy polenta.

Philipp Vogel, who has previously worked at top restaurants in Shanghai,

After their meal, guests are encouraged to retire to the bar for a digestif

London, Berlin and Austria, and his wife Jenny Vogel, who manages the

prepared by Head Bartender Merlin Braun and his team, from where they

hotel. The duo are successfully attracting gourmands and culture vultures

can settle in to enjoy whatever musical performance happens to be on that

to the large public space on the ground floor, reaping the rewards from

night. All of which comes together to produce an engaging multisensory

introducing not just a lively F&B offer, but also a concert programme

experience that doubtless would have appealed to those who stood on this

overseen by Julien Quentin and jazz schedule managed by Marc Schmolling.

very spot a hundred years prior.

The Dietmar Mueller-Elmlau-designed restaurant at Orania Berlin effectively merges with the bar and lounge in the daytime but becomes

www.orania.berlin

IN A BITE Owner: Diettrich von Boetticher • Operator: Philipp Vogel • Developer: Dietmar Mueller-Elmlau and Philipp Vogel • Architecture: Hilmer Sattler Architekten • Interior Design: Dietmar Mueller-Elmlau • Head Chef: Philipp Vogel • Head Bartender: Merlin Braun • Restaurant Manager: Johannes Linster • Dinnerware: Serax, Dibbern • Cutlery: Robbe & Berking • Glassware: Dibbern, Schott Zwiesel • Graphic Design: Kaluza + Schmid 034

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Pink Pearl JW Marriott Phú Quoc Emerald Bay, Vietnam

Bringing a new level of experiential fine dining to one of Vietnam’s paradisal

not over until the fat lady sings’ with its own dedicated operatic performer.

islands, the Pink Pearl mansion at JW Marriott Phú Quoc Emerald Bay –

Meanwhile, Chef de Cuisine Amine Lakhdari has taken cues from

inspired by a fictional academy of learning entitled Lamarck University

Madame Pearl’s treasured book of classic French recipes – as well as over

– represents a striking addition to the luxury resort.

ten years’ experience working in Michelin-starred restaurants including

Created by famed designer Bill Bensley, Pink Pearl draws on the legend

L’Espadon at The Ritz Paris, Apicius and La Truffe Noire – to create a

of Madame Pearl Collins – the great-great-grandmother of General

fine-dining menu that captures the glamour and decadence of the Roaring

Manager Ty Collins. The story goes that she hosted gastronomic soirées

Twenties. Combining premium local products with a farm-to-table ethos,

for friends and dignitaries at the beachfront mansion. As such, interiors

the menu features signature dishes such as Nha Trang spiny lobster with

provide a sense of retro glamour with a bold mix of pinks, sumptuous

cherry, Charolais beef pithivier and indulgent masterpiece Opera Sphere

prints, artefacts, gilt-framed portraits and a grand central chandelier, all

Marou Chocolate.

of which are bespoke.

Pink Pearl is also home to what is believed to be Phú Quoc’s best-stocked

Guests are welcomed at the door by girls in flapper costumes, before

wine cellar, exuding Gatsbian drama with a spiral staircase that opens onto

taking a guided tour through six private dining rooms punctuated by

monochromatic glazed cabinets containing a selection of French classics,

pianists, violinists and classical chanteuses. Each room tells the story of

New World favourites and fortified tipples.

Madame Pearl and Lamarck University through photographs and vintage pieces, while the main dining room boasts a cheeky nod to the saying ‘it’s

www.marriott.com

IN A BITE Covers: 78 • Owner: Sun Group • Operator: JW Marriott • Interior Design: Bill Bensley • Head Chef: Amine Lakhdari • Head Sommelier: Mr Tu • Head Waiter: Ms Elise, Ms Thi • Tableware: Legle France; Faisal Malik Design • Cutlery: Tosca • Glassware: Spiegelau • Table Linen: Casarovea • Menu and Graphic Design: Phuong Minh Hoang 036

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Photography: © Rob Withrow

The Black Bull Sedbergh, Cumbria

The past two decades have been tough on UK pubs. Those that survived

blankets made with Howgill Fells wool, porcelain mugs by Rebecca Callis

have largely done so by reinventing themselves – as social hubs for their

and thick wool carpets by Wools of Cumbria.

local communities, food-driven destinations, or by refurbishing their

Local provenance also drives the food offer, though Matsunaga’s

upper floors to provide beds as well as breakfast. The Black Bull in the

Japanese heritage is noticeable in subtle Asian influences. A starter of skate

Cumbrian town of Sedbergh has succeeded in combining all three.

with seaweed and spring onion carries the umami hit of miso, while local

With roaring log fires and cosy red banquettes, the bar here is clearly just

rabbit is deep-fried karaage-style with togarashi mayo on the side. Other

as popular with locals as guests. Its bar snack menu packs a few surprises

dishes - pheasant, Yorkshire parkin and sea buckthorn, and venison with

(not least squirrel croquettes), complemented by a crowd-pleasing drinks

quince, root vegetables and treacle - stay closer to their Cumbrian roots.

selection featuring the likes of Black Sheep Brewery and Fell Brewery.

Food and drink comes on dinnerware by Serax and Playground and

Owners James Ratcliffe and Nina Matsunaga actually cut their teeth on

glassware from Riedel and Chef & Sommelier. Robert Welch’s stylish Deta

Manchester’s street-food scene, before decamping to Sedbergh to start

cutlery further enhances the tabletop, with 18/10 stainless-steel spoons

the Three Hares café, well-known for the quality of its breads and cakes.

and forks, and knife blades made from hardened stainless steel for the

At The Black Bull, the welcoming restaurant design features wood-

best possible cutting edge. All of which merely serves to underline that

panelled walls, landscape art by Rob Withrow and a triptych screen-printed

The Black Bull is a cut above your average pub.

mirror by Phil Constable. Meanwhile, the 18 guestrooms, each named after a nearby fell, incorporate bespoke furniture in local materials, hand-woven

www.theblackbullsedbergh.co.uk

IN A BITE Covers: 60 (dining room), 25 (casual area) • Owners: James Ratcliffe and Nina Matsunaga • Interior Design: Up North Architects • Head Chef: Nina Matsunaga • Dinnerware: Serax, Rebecca Callis, Playground • Cutlery: Robert Welch • Glassware: Riedel, Chef & Sommelier • Barware: Beaumont, Genware • Flowers: Backyard Blooms • Bespoke Furniture: Carlick • Lighting: John Male Studio • Menu and Graphic Design: Smiling Wolf 038

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Photography: © Brenners Park Hotel & Spa

Fritz & Felix Brenners Park Hotel & Spa, Baden-Baden

Fritz & Felix – the restaurant, bar and open-kitchen concept within Oetker

underpinning, guiding both design and cuisine. Fritz & Felix also seeks to

Collection’s Brenners Park Hotel – has opened its doors in Baden-Baden,

combine the social atmospheres of both living and dining room with the

showcasing an interior scheme by Robert Angell Design International

flexibility of public and co-working spaces.

based around the unlikely combination of fables, nature and classic cars.

Conceptualised by Swiss chef Nenad Mlinarevic, the menu places focus

Built upon a narrative by London-based consultancy Gorgeous Group,

on authentic, aromatic comfort food, with dishes including pumpkin, hemp

the aesthetic draws from the south-west German region’s Black Forest

and buckwheat; apple and horseradish served on a bed of flowers, and cod

by way of natural tones chosen to reflect vivid seasonal changes, whilst

with a side of rustic vegetable chips. Elsewhere, the traditional wine list is

the hotel’s longstanding association with automobiles – Baden-Baden

eschewed in favour of a seasonal magazine, with as much attention paid

hosts the prestigious annual Concours d’Elégance meet – informs a series

to offering boozy mixtures in the spirit of the Roaring Twenties as to non-

of luxurious details including intricate upholstery stitching and ribbed

alcoholic options. Concoctions include the signature Fritz & Felix spritz,

headlight glass screens.

incorporating house-made vermouth and Birds Riesling Spirit; Black

Comprising three distinct areas in the bar, activated kitchen and

Forest Bear with Bonpland Rouge Rum and Bärenjäger Honey Liqueur;

restaurant space, the venue depicts a modern fable, with Gorgeous

and Brenners Cooler, marrying Monin Bitter Syrup, vanilla rooibos tea

Group developing the eponymous Black Forest-dwelling characters of

and bitter lemon.

Fritz – an old-fashioned, snobbish fox – and Felix – the cheerful, openminded rabbit. Their shared adventures lend the project an experimental

www.fritzxfelix.com

IN A BITE Covers: 135 • Operator: Oetker Collection • Interior Design: Robert Angell Design International • Culinary Consultant: Nenad Mlinarevic • Head Chef: Sebastian Mattis • Restaurant Manager: Julius Hilger • F&B Consultant: Gorgeous Group • Tableware: Serax, Dibbern • Glassware: Riedel, Schott Zwiesel

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SUPPER_ADV_S20_236x275.indd 1

07/12/18 09:27

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Photography: © Chase Daniel

Openaire Line LA, California

Sydell Group has partnered with Michelin-starred chef Josiah Citrin to

Citrin also oversees the new lobby bar downstairs, which mimicks its

transform the food and beverage offering at Line LA, with greenhouse

sister restaurant with upholstered seating, and uses communal tables and

dining concept Openaire taking centre stage. Famed for his LA restaurants

inviting Persian rugs to create a more approachable dining experience. A

Mélisse and Charcoal Venice, Citrin has introduced new, seasonally-driven

site-specific installation by American designer Henry Taylor and a Poketo

menus celebrating Californian produce at every opportunity.

mural by artist-in-residence Brendan Monroe also help to breathe life

Inspired by the soulful and generous approach of meals prepared at

into the venue.

home, balancing flavour and simplicity in a spirited atmosphere, Citrin

On the menu are duck confit fritters with sumac and pomegranate; as

serves appealing dishes such as honeynut squash, parsnip, pumpkin

well as ahi tuna accompanied by avocado, cucumber and citrus vinaigrette.

seeds, sherry-honey yoghurt and manchego, as well as Snake River Farms

In addition to its inventive dishes, the bar boasts a beverage programme

sirloin with yu choy and toasted garlic brown butter doenjang. The menu

curated by Happy Hour Agency – the LA-based cocktail collaborative

is complemented by a selection of classic and creative cocktails.

founded by Irene Martinez, Eliana Dominguez and Connie Shen – and is

Knibb Design has transformed the restaurant space into a lush environment decorated with baskets of fragrant plants from Jerusalem

set to host a rotating series of events spanning drinks, art and design in the coming months.

jasmine to rose geraniums. Meanwhile, a marble bar with mirrored backsplash accents and custom crates offsets burgundy mohair banquettes.

www.thelinehotel.com

IN A BITE Covers: 110 • Owner: Andrew Zobler • Operator: Sydell Group • Architecture: Daniel Mann Johnson + Mendenhall • Interior Design: Knibb Design • Head Chef: Josiah Citrin • Executive Chef: Richard Archuleta • F&B Manager: Daniel Rivera • Head Bartender: Jesus Gomez • Tableware: Hand Ceramics, Robert Siegel Ceramics, WNK • Glassware: Rona • Table Decoration: Robert Siegel, Flowerboy Flowers • Menu and Graphic Design: Folklor 042

T: +852 2735 8671 E: info@wnk-hk.com www.wnk-hk.com VISIT US Ambiente 2019, Frankfrut, Hall 3.0, C54, 8-12 FEB

Yun House, Bar Trigona and The Lounge Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur

Words: Lauren Ho • Photography: © Owen Raggett (unless otherwise stated)

W

hen in Malaysia, the one thing that can’t go unnoticed is the prevalence of durian. Celebrated by many locals as the ‘king of fruits’, its pungent whiff lingers in the air, wafting from packed street-food stalls and restaurants that sell an

assortment of durian delicacies, from ice cream to fried fritters and even macaroons. So, it’s amusing to hear that Jimmy Wong, Executive Chef of Yun House, the signature Chinese restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur, is not a fan of the country’s national fruit. “I really don’t like durian,” he says, waving his hands in front of his face and then pinching his nose in mock distaste. “But, the Four Seasons’ philosophy – as is mine – is to treat others the way you want to be treated. And all I want is for my guests to be happy and to enjoy every moment spent in Yun House.”

This is not a difficult task given that Wong’s menu – inclusive of the quite delicious durian pancakes – is a crowd-pleaser, packed with familiar but elevated Cantonese classics – such as the crispy cereal-coated deepfried eggplant, the signature double-boiled black garlic and sea whelk soup, and an in-demand lunchtime dim sum offering – that are influenced by his home city of Hong Kong. “I have tried to conserve the original flavours of Cantonese cuisine while infusing an artful presentation to complement the restaurant’s modern and stylish atmosphere,” he explains.

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045

Food Photography: Courtesy of Four Seasons

This is the work of Ed Ng and Terence Ngan of Hong Kong-based

which is lined with decorative pewter canisters often found in Malaysian

their cues from Malaysia’s multicultural heritage for the trio of F&B

homes and celebrates the Chinese heritage of tea pouring. Meanwhile,

outlets that they were tasked with outfitting. “The concept of Yun

in taking advantage of the high ceilings and abundance of natural light,

House, The Lounge, and Bar Trigona is a micro-reflection of Kuala

the designers channelled Malaysia’s longstanding tradition of socialising

Lumpur’s unique background,” explain the pair. “We wanted each space

in courtyard gardens by separating the main restaurant with looming

to be distinctly different, but with a root that is entirely belonging to

five-metre-high doors and embellishing the base pewter-grey tones

the city.” That sense of diversity is evident elsewhere too; in terms of

with vibrant floral wallpaper and chairs, as well as a standout wall

tableware, for example, the property’s F&B offering makes use of a

installation called ‘Dragon in the Cloud’, which is made from 20,000

range of smart and practical dishes from hospitality specialist Steelite.

ceramic discs. “Our main purpose was to celebrate Cantonese culture

Yun House celebrates Malaysia’s Chinese culture with a concept inspired by, as the duo say, “a young Cantonese tin artist who moves to Malaysia to make his mark on the world”. This translates into a

and to create a warm, familiar feeling of openness, yet still offering opulence for guests to enjoy,” say Ng and Ngan.

Just off the sixth-floor lobby, The Lounge, meanwhile, is an all-day

series of rooms, splashed with a riot of colours, floral motifs and

dining space that looks out onto KLCC, the city’s sprawling urban park.

lavish textures that begin with a decadent courtyard-style reception.

Here, also informed by the building’s high ceilings and natural light,

Here, an illuminated onyx desk is backed by a bespoke pewter panel

the designers were inspired by Malaysia’s history to create a sunny,

screen engraved with 152 blossoming plum, orchid, bamboo and

laid-back meeting place influenced by ‘the metaphorical idea of a

chrysanthemum plants that, together, represent the four seasons that

colonial residence, inhabited by an antiques collector overlooking his

are known as the ‘Four Gentlemen’ in Chinese art.

own garden’. A variety of seating options – including a private dining

In a nod to Malaysia’s status as the world’s largest pewter producer,

046

the metal is used again in the following room – the tea vestibule –

practice AB Concept who, for their first project in Kuala Lumpur, took

nook, a central bank of booths, and a series of low-slung settees lining

MAIN COURSE

the windows – are revealed through swathes of blond wood, pastel-

Accessed via discreet bronze doors from The Lounge, the result is

green fabrics, lacquered baluster tables, wicker-back chairs, English gas

exclusive and intimate, incorporating traditional materials used in

lamps, and marble and rattan details. The cosy booths in particular, said

Malaysian crafts, such as leather, bronze and glass, in evocative teal and

to be inspired by Malay architecture, are the best seats from which to

maroon tones. Mirrored surfaces – 9,039 individual pieces to be exact

enjoy a traditional British high tea with indulgent classics and scones

– reflect the urban jungle down below, while 52 strings of light and 715

topped with Devonshire clotted cream. “For The Lounge, we considered

pendant lamps create a twinkling effect. From beneath the Chinese-

how western culture became part of the Malaysian roots,” say the duo.

inspired yo-yo lamps, watch Head Bartender Ashish Sharma and his

“So, we created a concept that invokes a high-tea atmosphere full of

team as they shake and mix a dazzling offering of cocktails that use

colonial tradition while still remaining light-hearted and comfortable.”

local, natural ingredients, like wild turmeric from Pahang or raw honey

Finally, the other thing that can’t go unnoticed when in Malaysia

harvested from the bar’s namesake, the stingless Trigona species of

is the vibrancy of modern-day Kuala Lumpur, with its bright lights

bees. In other words, the perfect spot to indulge in a pre-prandial tipple

and gleaming canyon of skyscrapers. In homage to this, Ng and Ngan

or perhaps a nightcap. In which case the Bolio – Trigona’s take on a

have decked Bar Trigona out with layers of superlative sparkle. “Bar

hot toddy with cinnamon-laced rose apple cider, honey, lemon, juniper

Trigona is about the present and future of Malaysia,” they explain. “We

berries and star anise – goes down a treat.

wanted to play with the idea of east meets west, mirroring the country’s multicultural population.”

www.fourseasons.com

IN A BITE Covers: 142 (Yun House), 58 (Bar Trigona), 68 (The Lounge) • Operator: Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts • Interior Design: AB Concept • Executive Chef: Junious Dickerson, Jimmy Wong (Yun House) • Head Bartender: Ashish Sharma • Tableware: Steelite

047

The English House Singapore

Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: Courtesy of The English House

T

he first Asian outpost of acclaimed chef Marco Pierre White is

the day we all want to be children.” This Peter Pan-ish essence is further

tucked away behind tropical foliage in Singapore’s Robertson

evident in the disdain with which he views the majority of contemporary

Quay neighbourhood. Two adjoining 19th-century colonial

restaurants. “Dinner is quite boring because in most restaurants, the

shophouses have been meticulously restored to create a 150-cover

environment is boring,” he argues. “You need to create an environment

restaurant, and a private dining room with capacity for up to 14 guests;

that captures the imagination; you want the guest to be fascinated and

18 rooms will also open here during the course of 2019, echoing the

get lost. All I really do is create a toy shop that sells food.”

model that White employs at sister hotel Rudloe Arms in Wiltshire.

from remarkable antiquities and an impressive collection of autographed

quest. It took White and his team over three years to painstakingly

Terry O’Neill photographs to bright yellow lavatory signs from the

restore the space, which had to be almost entirely gutted, albeit with

London Underground, which date back to 1964. Taken together, all

a keen focus throughout on paying homage to the past. “You have to

of these eye-catching features help to create a strong and coherent

accept that we are in Singapore,” he says. “You have to respect what

narrative for the restaurant, something that is obviously very important

Singapore represents. This is an old shophouse and therefore, firstly, it

for White. “How does a space affect you when you arrive?” he asks. “I

is about restoring the shophouse back to what it was and, secondly, it is

accept that life is very stressful, therefore you finish work and want

about bringing a piece of England to Singapore.”

something to happen. So, let’s take ourselves into the playground, let’s

Walking up the stairs from the main street, having brushed away those bushes hiding the property from view, a sense of excitement

048

There is certainly plenty to amuse and delight at The English House,

Getting The English House to its current refined state has been no easy

get lost and involved. It is all about the emotional impact for me.”

The food at The English House is, as the name suggests, a nod to the

builds palpably. This feeling continues inside, where works of art drawn

best of British with a few extra touches here and there. Overseen by

from White’s personal collection add an element of whimsy to the dining

chef Andrew Bennett, who has worked with White since he was 17, the

experience. “The eye must always be amused,” White continues. “We

menu showcases classics such as Mr White’s stuffed cabbage with fresh

have lots of eccentricities here, and eccentricities will amuse the mind.

tomato sauce, Mr Lamb’s shepherd’s pie with buttered garden peas,

Let’s not forget that although we live in a grown-up world, at the end of

and a hearty English egg custard. But despite famously becoming the

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Honey Roast Belly of Pork Marco Polo

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Spectacular feature decorations inside The English House

youngest British chef to win three Michelin stars back in 1995 (at the

want,” he muses. “I am never happy. This means that it is never good

age of just 33), White is not one to talk incessantly about food. On the

enough and has always got to improve. I believe we live in a world of

contrary, he finds the topic boring. “Without food we don’t live, so food

refinement, not invention.”

is really important, but it is not a conversation,” he says. “All you have

To this day, White obviously draws a lot of inspiration from his

to know about food is that mother nature is the true artist and we are

upbringing. “My mother brought me into this world to make things, not

just cooks.” But he does admit that becoming a chef was probably the

to make money,” he recalls. “She was so aware of the underprivileged.”

best course of action for a character like his. “Gastronomy is the greatest

This perhaps explains why the restaurant welcomes everyone as equals,

form of therapy any misfit could be exposed to,” he reflects. “And I was

and lets customers decide the level of formality. White is also influenced

that perfect misfit.”

by what he sees when travelling, which he considers to be a necessity

The importance of service in the overall guest experience is something

for personal growth. “Travel removes the blinkers,” he says. “When I

that White keeps stressing over and over. When coming for dinner, the

travel, I remove everything from where I came from. I want to sit with

customer is greeted by two doormen – brothers Sarjit Singh and Swaran

the people, I want to see what they see. If I go to Singapore, I want to sit

Singh – who have switched to Mohamed Sultan Road after 26 years at

with Singaporean people.”

Raffles Singapore. The waiting staff also change their uniforms between

Under White’s careful eye, there can be no doubt that the 18 rooms

lunch and dinner, a small yet crucial detail that transforms the tone of

currently under development here will carry on the very particular

the space. As for the patron himself, White is happy to do rounds on the

and intimate feel of the restaurant below. In an interesting move, each

floor, greeting guests and welcoming them to his home away from home.

guestroom will be allocated a designated table at the property’s private

“I am an old-fashioned restaurateur,” he explains. “I sit with my clients

terrace. It’s a nice touch and one that, from the guest’s point of view,

and I eat with my clients. But I watch the room, I watch everything.”

will undoubtedly enhance the memorable environment that White has

A true romantic at heart, he admits that The English House is an

worked so hard to achieve.

extension of himself, encompassing both the successes and the failings.

“This place is like a child, and children never turn out the way you

www.theenglishhouse.com

IN A BITE Covers: 150 (restaurant), 14 (private dining) • Owner: Marco Pierre White • Operator: Christophe Capron and Leticia Pierre White • Interior Design: Marco Pierre White • Head Chef: Andrew Bennett • Beverage Manager: Andrea Pregarz • Dinnerware: Wedgwood, RAK • Cutlery: Heritage Collection

050

BRITISH DESIGN SINCE 1955

HOSPITALITY BY DESIGN

For more information or samples contact us.

Email: hospitality@rober twelch.com Telephone: +44 (0)1386 840880 robertwelch.com/hospitality

41Mad Supper Magazine WINTER_Layout 1 12/12/18 4:59 PM Page 1

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Shanghai Tavern, Canton Disco and HIYA The Shanghai Edition

Words: IJ Miu • Photography: © Bono Yan (unless otherwise stated)

S

hanghai is very much a youth-driven city, where the millennial market is driving society’s change at speed. It’s an obvious place for an Edition, a hotel brand targeting this exact demographic, or as Ian Schrager puts it: “This is a new kind of hotel in China that the city of Shanghai didn’t

know it needed.”

The Shanghai Edition opened last autumn, muscling into an already

crowded hotel sector with two adjacent buildings: a repurposed Brutalist office tower and a restored former electricity company HQ, and it’s this six-floor heritage property that houses most of the public spaces including the spa, roof garden and nightclub. With 12 bars and restaurants, it’s clear that Marriott International is aiming for The Shanghai Edition to be a heavyweight in the city’s F&B scene.

For the hotel’s three knockout punches, Edition hired Jason Atherton to create a trilogy of restaurants with local architectural practice Neri & Hu, collaborating with Ian Schrager Company on interiors, furniture and lighting.

“Although each of the three restaurants are different and have their own style and cuisine, in terms of atmosphere they are similar,” explains Atherton.

“All have a fun, friendly atmosphere, where guests can come and socialise feeling relaxed; both the staff and interiors make people feel comfortable. Food

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Canton Disco Photography: © Nikolas Koenig

Shanghai Tavern Photography: © Nikolas Koenig

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however is where they differ; Shanghai Tavern serves modern British

It’s relish served with real relish. “It is a bit of a show, as is the dessert

dishes, Canton Disco is Cantonese and HIYA is Japanese. The cuisine also

trolley,” says Melvin, “and we’ll do more trolley service in the future as

influences the guest experience on the whole as everything is authentic,

it gets us real guest engagement.”

for example, from food to chinaware and table set-up.”

Shanghai Tavern is the first restaurant from the guest journey

Immediately upstairs from Shanghai Tavern is Canton Disco, a vastly different dining experience. Currently only open for dinner, the

perspective, located on the ground floor and accessed via a magnificent

extensive menus are read by a tealight while the music is in no way

pair of heritage revolving doors. Inside, under the coffered ceiling, is a

background but utterly integral to the dining concept, with a seventies

handsome room of brass lights, mirrors and fittings, with white marble

and eighties mix featuring tracks from Eurythmics, Duran Duran, Boney

tables and banquettes in vibrant Buckingham green and cream. The

M, INXS and Bronski Beat.

tabletop’s main feature is the solely white plateware from Yin Feng and RAK, complemented by a central tea light and small flower arrangement.

It is split into two areas; a long bronze bar and lounge area, and a subsequent square restaurant space, beautifully bordered by high

Scott Melvin, who’s been working with Atherton for over 14 years,

wooden screens, that takes its cues from traditional courtyard houses.

is the Chef de Cuisine in charge of the day-to-day running of all three

It’s so dark that you may not notice that the floors, walls and columns

venues. He describes Shanghai Tavern as brasserie-style all-day dining

are all clad in the same local grey bricks. But the main focus point is

in the manner of a European grill: “We open at 6am with breakfast,

unavoidable – a central inner sanctum of two large round tables. “I

including a full English and local specialities, then we have lunch,

am very fond of the patterned wooden screens that divide these tables

followed by a casual café menu and afternoon tea, then serving an à la

and the room,” notes Atherton. “They mean you have privacy but are

carte dinner until 11pm. 80% of the guests are Chinese so we have to

never hidden away and can still experience the buzz of the restaurant.”

explain the concept, that we’re not a fine-dining restaurant.”

Surrounding this on all four sides are dark-green leather banquettes and

The menu, delivered on a single piece of card, is heavily Britishinfluenced with highlights including the prawn cocktail, macaroni

the remainder of the tables.

The inviting black tabletops feature Spiegelau glassware, local Chinese

cheese and the beguiling pork pie trolley, the staff cutting the loaf

plates and warm towels delivered on arrival. The room’s capacity is 167

tableside and loading the plate with attendant pickles and mustards.

seats, including five cellar-like private dining rooms.

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Wagyu carpaccio, smoked beef fat chilli dressing, snow ear fungus

The environmental concept plays homage to the mid-eighties Canton

The guest journey out of the dark lift lobby further accentuates the

Discotheque, which was the Studio 54 of Hong Kong at the time. It’s

shift into either the daytime blitz or the nighttime cityscape vistas.

young, fun and deftly taps into the Shanghainese nightlife demographic

Guests firstly encounter a long bar before turning a corner into the main

in the same way that Electric Circus, the hotel’s nightclub, also hopes to

dining area, a space dominated by a standalone spiral staircase that

do. This is a Schrager place, after all.

Atherton describes as “dramatic and slick”, and which leads up to the

The restaurant is a collaboration with Hong Kong-based Black Sheep Restaurants, with Executive Chef Jowett Yu providing a menu that

35-seater bar lounge Punch Room and the rooftop garden bar.

HIYA has the widest variety of plateware of the three restaurants,

excels in seafood – from prawn toast and fresh crabs to abalone noodles

using Kwangjuyo, Nikko and Arita plus Shintoko chopsticks. The wine

and a shark-fin soup that requires 48 hours’ notice. But the menu’s

list includes sake and flavoured shochu with Kirin beer on tap, while

scope is allowed to wander into mainland China and further afield to

the clear highlights of the izakaya-style menu are the outrageously

include Sichuan chicken wings, celtuce caesar, and a beautiful pineapple

successful temacos – seaweed tacos filled with sushi.

carpaccio on the desserts options.

The hotel’s third restaurant couldn’t be more different again. HIYA,

Even though HIYA appears to be the most restrained and ‘fine-dining’ of the three venues, the menu still has a fun and playful nature to it –

possibly a wry English-language joke to its 27th floor location but also

yes, there are classics, but there are surprises too – and again it is all

meaning ‘clouds in the sky’, is a Japanese-inspired venue and as bright

perfectly pitched for that important and increasingly worldly young

as Canton Disco is dark.

crowd. Atherton has done his homework and delivered the very essence

The light-filled space is all white stone and white sofas with a startling geometry of triangular, slanted and double-height windows on three

of modern Chinese internationalism, which Shanghai is feeding off at the moment.

sides showing the Huangpu river and Shanghai’s Pudong Central Business District. In a city of great hotel views, this is one of the very best.

www.editionhotels.com

IN A BITE Covers: 135 (Shanghai Tavern), 90 (Canton Disco), 66 (HIYA) • Operator: Marriott International and Ian Schrager Company • F&B Operator (Canton Disco): Black Sheep Restaurants • Architecture and Interior Design: Neri & Hu and Ian Schrager Company • Head Chef: Jason Atherton • Executive Chef: Scott Melvin • Director of Wine: Delphin Duan • Bar Director: Christopher Peart • Dinnerware: Yin Feng, Wedish, Kwangjuyo, Nikko, Arita, Shintoko • Cutlery: Baguette, Robert Welch, Malvern • Glassware: Spiegelau, Zalto, Kinvarra, Atlantic

056

ambiente Hall 4.0 - Stand E77 www.pordamsa.com @pordamsadesignforchefs

Kerridge’s Bar & Grill Hotel Corinthia London

Words: Richard Frost • Photography: © Kensington Leverne (unless otherwise stated)

T

om Kerridge has come a long way since 2005 when the ambitious chef first decided to open his own place, taking over a rundown pub, The Hand & Flowers, in the small Buckinghamshire market town of Marlow. His kitchen quickly gained a reputation for serving refined

versions of traditional British dishes in unpretentious surroundings, and accolades came flooding in, most notably in 2011 when it became the first to be pub awarded two Michelin stars. Kerridge’s profile was further boosted by appearances on BBC Two cooking competition Great British Menu, where he won the main course segment two years running (in 2010 and 2011), and penning a series of best-selling cookbooks. Expansion duly followed in the form of a second pub, The Coach, which opened in 2014 and collected a Michelin star in 2017, and The Butcher’s Tap, a combined butcher’s and pub that began trading in 2017; both are located in Marlow, within walking distance of his flagship. Now he has finally taken the plunge and launched his debut London restaurant, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill at Corinthia Hotel London, with trusted lieutenant Nick Beardshaw leaving his post as Head Chef at The Coach to take up the same role here.

As the name suggests, the venue consists of two distinct parts: the bar is open to walk-ins throughout the day, serving up light snacks such as homemade scotch egg with mustard mayonnaise, and deep-fried baby squid with aioli; the grill, by contrast, operates a lunch and dinner service, and takes reservations – enabling the kitchen to deliver a much broader menu of reworked British classics. Many of the dishes on offer

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Photography: © Cristian Barnett

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here possess a flavour intensity that can only come from spit-roasting,

also evident across the starters, which include the likes of Essex beetroot

with the kitchen never missing an opportunity to cook meat, seafood

salad, Loch Duart salmon and a terrific Cornish crab vol-au-vent, where

and vegetables on the dining room’s very own rotisserie, which comes

the well-seasoned crab meat is perfectly complemented by a creamy

complete with its own counter top and seating; Kerridge reckons that

bisque served separately. Dishes are served on smart dinnerware by

this rotisserie is the restaurant’s standout feature. “It gives you an even

Goodfellows and William Edwards, accompanied by elegant Studio

cook from the edge to the centre of the meat, giving you consistency

William cutlery; the high-quality tableware’s visual appeal is further

with every dish,” he explains. “People also really enjoy sitting on the

reinforced by the addition of luxury pewter candle holders from Cosi

high stools by the grill, watching the chefs in action.”

Tabellini, bathing the tabletop in a warm glow that shows everything in

The rotisserie’s influence is felt most strongly on the mains, not least

060

the best possible light.

in dishes such as the crowd-pleasing rib of beef with chips, bone-

Kerridge’s obsession with provenance is apparent across the menu;

marrow sauce and gherkin ketchup; or the loin of tender Ramsbury

the rib of beef, for example, comes from his own butcher, while he also

Estates venison served with a melt-in-the-mouth carrot, slow-roasted

draws heavily on produce from Flying Fish Seafoods in Cornwall. Several

for six hours just like at The Hand & Flowers, accompanied by a parsley

foodstuffs, including meats, cheeses and breads, are even presented as

emulsion and hearty cottage pie. Kerridge’s signature dish, fish and

an attraction in their own right, displayed in feature fridges and cabinets

chips with tartare, pease pudding and curry sauce, also makes an

lined up against the walls. It’s a similar story on the drinks side, where

appearance, transforming the British seaside classic into something

the bar proudly serves up cask ales on draught from Marlow-based

far more elegant by using premium fish encased in a light batter that

Rebellion Beer Co in a clear reference to Kerridge’s pub background,

allows the fillet to steam to perfection. A supremely delicate touch is

while Head Sommelier Charles Beaini oversees a 600-strong wine list

SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL.

Proud to supply Chef Tom Kerridge at The Corinthia Hotel with Mulberry Silverplate Cutlery.

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notable for including top English vineyards like Ridgeview, Nyetimber

even cosiness, in what remains a large space with unusually high

and Denbies.

ceilings; partly, this is down to the adoption of a warm colour palette

The concept behind Kerridge’s Bar & Grill is obviously a world away

feature walls and ceilings painted a striking green hue. “The colouring

sophisticated Italian cuisine in an Art Deco-influenced space dominated

of the ceiling made the room feel dramatic and also brought the focus

by statement globe lighting. “It became apparent that we needed to have

down to the tables and the food,” he reflects. “My wife suggested I look

a stronger identity within our food and beverage outlets, especially in

at Grand Central Station in New York to understand large spaces, and

the ever-more competitive London restaurant scene,” says Benjamin

the inspiration and colouring came from there.”

Hofer, Director of F&B at Corinthia Hotel London. David Collins Studio,

The restaurant’s personality is also shaped by the artworks on show,

which actually designed Massimo in 2011, was brought back to help

carefully curated by Shoreditch-based gallery West Contemporary.

realise the team’s vision. “The brief was to create a very welcoming

Most compelling is a large bronze statue of a men’s suit in the middle

space,” recalls Simon Rawlings, the interior design studio’s Creative

of the dining room by Beth Cullen-Kerridge, not only the chef’s wife

Director. “A room that reflected Tom’s personality and food, with a nod

and business partner but a successful sculptor in her own right, while

to The Hand & Flowers.”

a dedicated art wall showcases pieces by Chris Moon, Jim Threapleton

Following a total refurbishment, the new-look restaurant certainly

062

in which the deep browns and burgundies of the furniture are offset by

from that of Massimo, the previous restaurant here, which dished up

and Mark Beattie. Kerridge takes a personal interest in the art featured;

feels more inviting, with a mix of curved leather banquettes, lounge

a couple of years ago, he asked his social media followers to share

seats, bar stools and dining chairs catering to casual bites as much

their treasured food memories, and thousands responded, sending in

as indulgent three-course meals. For Rawlings, the project’s greatest

menus they had collected from special occasions ranging from first

success is the way in which it manages to create a sense of intimacy,

dates to meals-of-a-lifetime. Mixed-media artist Robi Walters then

ITALIAN-PEWTER.CO.UK

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painstakingly cut these mementoes into petal shapes to create two

overseeing a fresh direction for The Northall among other duties. As

bespoke tabletops for the restaurant, which in pleasing symmetry diners

for Kerridge, he reveals that the restaurant has surpassed all of his

can now use to create their own food memories.

expectations, adding: “The room is outstanding and the food has hit a

It’s clear that locals and international guests alike have really taken to Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, which manages to retain some of The Hand & Flower’s informality while still fitting in with the opulence of

rhythm and groove that we are comfortable with already, even though it’s early doors.”

This talented and likeable chef has come on leaps and bounds since

Corinthia Hotel London. Hofer, assessing what has changed from the

the moment he first collected the keys to an unremarkable pub in

hotel’s perspective, views the opening as a key part of management’s

Marlow 14 years ago. His first London restaurant, inside one of the UK’s

efforts to elevate the whole F&B offering; a project that has also seen

most prestigious hotels, will doubtless introduce a whole new audience

the launch of a new afternoon tea service in the Crystal Moon Lounge,

to his winning take on traditional British cuisine.

the introduction of a innovative cocktail menu at Bassoon, and the appointment of André Garrett as the property’s Executive Chef,

www.kerridgesbarandgrill.co.uk

IN A BITE Covers: 90 (restaurant), 40 (bar), 16 (private dining) • Owner: Corinthia Hotel London, Tom Kerridge • Interior Design: David Collins Studio • Signature Chef: Tom Kerridge • Head Chef: Nick Beardshaw • Restaurant Director: Tomas Kubart • Head Sommelier: Charles Beaini • Dinnerware: Goodfellows, William Edwards • Cutlery: Studio William • Pewter Candle Holders: Cosi Tabellini • Art Consultant: West Contemporary • Lighting Design: DPA Lighting • Menu and Graphic Design: Gunter Piekarski

064

The DogHouse Columbus, Ohio

Words: Matthew Hall • Photography: Courtesy of BrewDog (unless otherwise stated)

A

t The DogHouse, dubbed the world’s first beer hotel by owner/ operator BrewDog, the front desk doubles as a bar for new arrivals to quench their thirst during check-in, while each of the 32 rooms offers guests access to their very own beer tap, along with in-

shower beer fridges stocked with drinks curated by company co-founders James Watt and Martin Dickie. Some suites also come with operable garagedoor walls overlooking stacked barrels filled with ageing sour beer – a true treat for those who love the smell of mashed malt in the morning.

This unique hotel exists in no small part because of a hugely successful crowdfunding campaign. BrewDog originally set out to raise US$75,000 towards the project, but unprecedented demand resulted in the business eventually raising more than four times that amount. “The DogHouse is our gift to the passionate and dedicated army of beer fans that have supported us every step of the way,” says Watt. “We are nothing without our community and this hotel celebrates that.”

Cheekily described by BrewDog as ‘the hoppiest place on earth’, the company’s huge Ohio complex not only features a hotel, but also a brewery (only the brand’s second after the original in Ellon, Scotland), a restaurant/taproom, and a retail/waiting area for tours. These interrelated and interconnected enterprises have a combined total of around 1,150 m2

of space under roof. Commissioned to create this US base for the craft brewer was a design-and-build team from Design Collective of Columbus, spearheaded by Principal Brent LaCount.

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Photography: © Michael Warth

BrewDog first burst onto the scene in 2007, winning admirers aplenty

side contains merchandise such as logo-bearing t-shirts and hats, as

includes opening more than 50 bars around the world, expanding into

well as a giant Lego layout of the complex and entry to a dedicated beer

spirits and even launching its own TV network. So what brought it to the

museum, while the other part features refrigerated cases packed with

Columbus suburb of Canal Winchester? Answer: the fast-growing area

tempting beverages.

offered the brewer room to spread out as it aggressively elbows its way

Next door is a waiting area with its own bar for those going on tours,

into the American market – plans are already in the works to expand

separated from the restaurant/taproom by a visually striking set of

the production space. Indeed, the bold design on display here is perhaps

steel-and-wood shelves holding empty beer kegs. DogTap itself is

the strongest expression yet of BrewDog’s self-proclaimed ambition to

anchored by another bar, this one made from a shipping container and

“take the craft beer revolution stratospheric”.

topped with a social media-friendly BrewDog sign, accompanied by a

Accomplishing that lofty goal requires making the restaurant/taproom component, DogTap, a central part of the experience, feeding off the brewery and hotel as well as becoming a memorable destination in

068

rectangular complex’s entry area, which houses the brewery’s shop; one

for its flagship Punk IPA, and has since gone on a growth bender that

diverse array of tufted booths in bright blue or red, four-top tables, and bar stools.

DogTap’s interior side wall offers views over BrewDog’s tanks, a real

and of itself. To help achieve that, the designers created an industrial-

draw for beer aficionados, and also houses a gaming area anchored

chic dining space with a smattering of playful touches. “Our main

by three tabletop shuffleboard sets and several pinball machines. The

ingredients were polished concrete and concrete bricks, reclaimed wood,

exterior side wall, meanwhile, consists of glass-and-steel garage

steel girders and piping, and lots of works by BrewDog’s in-house

doors that can be opened onto an adjoining courtyard when weather

graffiti artist,” says LaCount, whose firm also designed two bars for the

permits – in keeping with the complex’s canine motif, there is a sizeable

company in Columbus. These elements are on prominent display in the

playground for dogs here. And at the rear of the venue is a mezzanine-

MAIN COURSE

level bar area for overflow crowds and private parties, along with a small

BrewDog’s US base is proving extremely popular with guests,

balcony populated with picnic tables overlooking the brewery’s vats.

prompting several post-opening adjustments to the complex’s layout

Both the entry area and DogTap have a nine-metre ceiling height, the

and furnishings, LaCount notes. For example, because waits for

same as in the adjoining beer-producing spaces; to lessen the potentially

tours during peak times can be well over an hour, a set of bleachers

cavernous feel that such units can evoke, the designers have cleverly

originally placed in the entry area for those visitors proved to be

suspended wooden shipping pallets with hanging light fixtures at the

too uncomfortable, and so that rigid installation was replaced with

front door and installed overhead pipes and tubes in the dining area.

residential-style seating. In addition, the kitchen had to be doubled in

As for its eats, DogTap’s beer-friendly menu is clearly pitched a

size to meet the greater-than-expected demand, with a set of adjoining

step above typical pub grub, with offerings including a pair of entrées

restrooms moved to allow the food-production space to be expanded to

(smoked brisket and baked mac ‘n’ cheese), cooked-to-order burgers

just over 200m2. “It’s been a learning process involving ongoing updates

using locally sourced ground beef, stone-baked pizzas with names like

to create the best guest experience,” says LaCount.

De Niro and White Trash, small plates such as chorizo mussels and hot wings, and four salad options. The offering is complemented by a

The result is a complex that takes the idea of an immersive brand experience to a whole new level.

well-chosen selection of tableware that includes Steelite’s homely and chip-resistant Blue Dapple enamel-look dishes.

www.brewdog.com

IN A BITE Owner/Operator: BrewDog • Architecture: Design Collective • Tableware: Steelite • Beer: BrewDog • Coffee: Stauf’s Coffee Roasters • Craft Beer Soaps: Glenn Avenue Soap Company

069

Le Collectionneur Hotel du Collectionneur, Paris

Words: Richard Frost • Photography: © Maelle Saliou (unless otherwise stated)

T

he humble magpie has long been tarnished with a

silver fork in its beak; the latter image also serves as the

reputation for petty larceny, stealing shiny objects

restaurant’s logo.

from under the noses of their rightful owners at every opportunity. This notoriety can be traced

back to at least the start of the 19th century, when French

oversaw the restaurant’s design and the decision to use

playwrights Théodore Baudouin d’Aubigny and Louis-

the magpie as its emblem. “The bird’s reputation is to

Charles Caigniez wrote a melodrama entitled La Pie

chase and find shiny objects to make their nest, and the

Voleuse, which in turn inspired Italian composer Gioachino

nest is the restaurant itself,” she explains. “Throughout

Rossini to pen his celebrated opera La Gazza Ladra. Both

the restaurant, guests can find all the bird’s discoveries,

works, which translate into English as The Thieving

including an assortment of copper, silver and gold

Magpie, boast a certain black-and-white bird with a

tableware in a range of different styles. The logo, in fact,

penchant for purloining and generally stirring up mischief.

is holding my grandmother’s fork.” Indeed, the variety is

At Le Collectionneur, the new restaurant inside the

not just limited to the dinnerware and cutlery, since guests

grandiose Hotel du Collectionneur in Paris, magpies are

dine among sculptures depicting oversized golden feathers

everywhere – or at least, artistic works featuring them are.

and leaves, while beautiful antiques and curios line the

Guests are greeted at the entrance foyer by a sculpture with

walls; Cohen, a passionate art collector, clearly shares the

half a dozen magpies ferrying loot back to their nest, the

magpie’s taste for unearthing eye-catching treasures.

walls are adorned with framed pictures of the bird, and the menus show one particularly daring scavenger carrying a

070

Andréa Cohen, CEO of The Gate Collection, the luxury hotel group behind the 487-room property, personally

Of course, birds also make guests think of nature, another theme at the very heart of the design concept.

MAIN COURSE

071

Photography: © Jérôme Galland

The restaurant’s most visible manifestation of the natural world sits

at Hotel du Collectionneur, the decision to create such an ambitious

interweaving strips of wood in a dramatic representation of a flowing

restaurant is indicative of the team’s philosophy “to surprise and

river, brought to life by soft cove lighting. “Our 22-metre ceiling

impress”, establishing “a place full of new energies with more impact

sculpture is made of bleached sycamore and is our most impressive

for our guests”. This new energy is also evident in the kitchen, where

feature because it is made entirely from one piece of wood,” says Cohen.

Head Chefs Joël Veyssiere and Nicolas Amelin have developed fruitful

“Installing the sculpture, we had to piece it together like a puzzle.” Le

relationships with local producers in order to get their hands on the

Collectionneur also cleverly blurs the boundaries between indoors and

freshest possible ingredients. “Much like the atmosphere, the whole

outdoors (a key trend highlighted at influential trade show EquipHotel)

menu has changed,” explains Cohen. “Our chefs, Joël and Nicolas,

by adopting a light and natural colour palette, subliminally encouraging

worked together to create contemporary yet traditionally French cuisine,

guests to switch between the 240-cover interior space and the three

constantly evolving with the seasons.”

external terraces, which collectively provide a further 150 covers.

072

For Antoine Corneille, Executive Assistant Manager in charge of F&B

above diners’ heads, an extraordinary ceiling installation featuring

As well as providing breakfast for residents and a full à la carte

Meanwhile, the venue nods to the Art Deco aesthetic of the building

offering, the restaurant’s set menus have also proved hugely popular.

it sits within via a number of visual flourishes, including bold geometric

Lunch guests can order two courses for €40 or three for €48 six days

designs on the walls and alabaster panels framing the doors, echoing

a week, while on Sundays an €88 brunch buffet features a dazzling

those featured on the property’s façade. This feels especially fitting

array of breads, pastries, ‘Seaward’ and ‘Landward’ main dishes, and

given that the hotel is located near the former studio of legendary

indulgent cakes to finish. Meanwhile, a €60 tasting menu treats dinner

French designer Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann, nicknamed ‘the pope of Art

guests to half a dozen highlights from the kitchen; standout items

Deco’, and boasts a design harking back to the great transatlantic liners

include a melt-in-the-mouth wagyu beef tataki with puréed sweet

from the movement’s heyday in the 1930s.

potato and tart candied kumquats; juicy free-range chicken breast with

MAIN COURSE

Thai green curry, vegetables and basmati rice; and a rich chocolate and

but Corneille is optimistic that the new restaurant’s arrival will help

hazelnut mousse. This being Paris, there is also an extensive drinks

drive up this contribution in the coming years. His hopes of realising

menu serving fine French wines split according to region, with the likes

that ambition are likely to receive a further boost when work completes

of Champagne, Bordeaux, Burgundy, the Loire and the Rhône Valley all

on a scheme to transform the adjoining Purple Bar into a dedicated

well-represented.

bar for Le Collectionneur in early 2019, establishing a common thread

The work to transform a space previously housing formal French

between the two venues and potentially offering more cross-selling

restaurant Le Safran into Le Collectionneur has certainly been no minor

opportunities. For now, however, the team is revelling in the early

undertaking; the journey from initial idea to opening took 18 months

success of the restaurant, which has seen locals and international guests

and involved an investment of approximately €10 million, according

alike flocking like magpies to unearth their own little treasures on the

to Corneille, with everything from concept and interiors to menus and

menu. Corneille concludes: “It completely represents the spirit we

tableware changing in the process. “We had 250 workers physically

wanted to achieve: a modern and innovative yet sophisticated Parisian

present throughout the project from more than 20 different countries,”

destination, created for clients looking for a gastronomic experience as

adds Cohen. “It was an amazing challenge to coordinate all the work and

well as an architectural and design discovery.”

create such a fantastic result.”

The hotel currently generates around a third of its revenues from F&B,

www.lecollectionneur.fr

IN A BITE Covers: 240 (indoor) and 150 (outdoor) • Owner: The Gate Collection • Architecture: Edouard Cohen, Alexandre Danan • Interior Design: Andréa Cohen • Head Chefs: Joël Veyssière, Nicolas Amelin • F&B Director: Zina Duthen • Head Bartender: Ivo Correia-Rocha • Restaurant Manager: Jean-Roch Carniel • Lighting: Ginger & Jagger • Graphic Design and Branding: GBH • Uniform Design: The Kooples

073

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MAIN COURSE

Bonnie’s Bank Hotel, Stockholm

Words: Alia Akkam • Photography: Courtesy of Bank Hotel (unless otherwise stated)

E

arly morning, when only a few patrons are tucking into plates of parmesan-dusted scrambled eggs, or reaching for the freshly squeezed juice from the bar, is the best time to appreciate Bonnie’s. Sunlight streams in through the soaring glass ceiling

of this hotspot at the new 115-room Bank Hotel in Stockholm, playing upon the emerald-green banquettes and rendering them a vivid blue.

The ambience, enhanced by a pocket of plants that suggests a tropical greenhouse, is hushed.

By nighttime the mood decidedly shifts, and the dining room, thronged with hotel guests and fashionable locals alike, takes an even more dramatic turn. Bottles of wine appear on tables. Waiters steer handsome trolleys. Laughter ensues when the signature golden-hued dessert Smash the Piggy Bank, a meant-to-be-crushed mélange of chocolate, meringue, and blackberry sorbet reminiscent of a piñata, arrives. The vibe, whimsical-meets-glamorous, is exactly what local hospitality group Stureplansgruppen envisioned for this space.

Bank Hotel lies on a quiet Stockholm street at the edge of Östermalm, near the waterfront and historic Strandvägen boulevard. The circa-1910 building, designed as the headquarters of Södra Sverige bank in the style of a modern Renaissance palace by architect Thor Thorén, is striking, its original heavyweight bronze doors intact a century later. Before reaching the neutral-hued, Art Deco-influenced rooms conjured by Swedish

075

Photography: © Jens Bergstrand

stylists Ida Lauga and Lo Bjurulf, guests are invariably stopped in their tracks by the first sight of Bonnie’s.

Atop the entrance foyer’s imposing red-carpeted staircase, the 94-

guest experience, with an offering that stands out for a culinary breadth

seat restaurant – yes, it’s named after one half of the world’s most

that transcends traditional Scandinavian minimalism. Here, dinner

romanticised bank-robbing duo – is situated in what was once the

might begin with artichoke à la barigoule brightened with brown

grand banking hall. The nearby Berns Hotel, which dates back to 1863,

butter and lemon, burrata with green chile, or – an especially fitting

is also part of the Stureplansgruppen portfolio, but Bank Hotel is the

complement to the dignified room – oysters and caviar. Veal tartare,

company’s inaugural ground-up hotel project. Drawing from a wealth

accentuated with cognac and whipped up tableside, is another draw,

of expertise in the restaurant and nightlife realm – the company’s

as is a substantial on-the-bone butter-fried turbot. At lunchtimes,

portfolio includes such buzzy, design-centric lairs as L’Avventura,

appealing daily specials like mushroom-salsiccia risotto make it a prime

Hillenberg, and Nosh and Chow – it’s not surprising that Bonnie’s is

spot for meetings, whilst on the weekends it’s not uncommon to see a

equally spirited and has clearly taken off from the get-go.

contingent of prams lined up for indulgent family brunches revolving

“This hotel is all about the venue, the experience beyond room size and corporate partnerships,” says John Hallson, Vice President of Stureplansgruppen Restaurants. “Bonnie’s is the centrepiece and heart

around the likes of Eggs Florentine and avocado-dressed shrimp sandwiches on rye.

“The Bonnie’s menu should bring forward new classics, and remind

of the whole operation. Our experience in creating restaurants and bars

guests about their travels and experiences with both internationally

for over 20 years is something that we used for plenty of our decisions.”

known brands and local specialties,” says Per Gunne, Vice President of

Sharp, enlightened hospitality, as Hallson describes it, is the aim of all

Stureplansgruppen. “Eating across the globe is becoming more and more

Stureplannsgruppen venues, and at Bonnie’s that specifically translates

of a reason for travelling, and being able to present dishes from the

into a restaurant with “a theatrical atmosphere, a confident Stockholm

coastal European region offers plenty of choices for providing surprises

dining experience for power lunches, long, lively brunches, and great

and comfort.”

dinners”. He adds: “We think this is what the city has been missing.”

076

Instead of placing a big, media-friendly executive chef at the helm, the Bonnie’s kitchen prioritises collaboration and focuses more on

Bonnie’s certainly packs a crowd day and night, but it is by no means

MAIN COURSE

Photography: © Jens Bergstrand

the only social experience at Bank Hotel. Either before or after dinner,

“Following the style of the bank and honouring its Jugendstil features

intimate Papillon is the spot to revel over conversation and a cocktail.

was important to the renovation,” says Jonathan Söderblom, Interior

Designed to conjure the sophisticated, clubby office of the bank director,

Designer at Stureplansgruppen. “There is a beauty to old buildings and

it’s cosy, with mahogany walls, floral-patterned seating, and wall-to-

the thing is not to change them but to preserve them, and only add to

wall green carpeting. The bar, with its mirrored front panel, turns out

the original design so that there is a strong connection between the old

drinks like the Dirty Money, a concoction of pisco, apple, ginger and

and the new.”

lemon, and nightcap-perfect Bees & Honey (cognac, grapefruit, dark chocolate and honey).

In contrast, there’s Sophie’s. At the other side of the lobby and also

Bonnie’s is a great example of this juxtaposition. The abundance of lustrous velvet, for instance, pops against the original marble floor, a sprawling checkerboard of black and white. Glorious 20th-century

reached via a separate entrance, this dimly-lit lounge with a pillow-

columns fashioned from muted blue-green stucco are enlivened by bold,

festooned banquette, low-slung tables, and leopard-print bar stools is a

contemporary artworks sourced by local gallery CFHILL and dangling

high-energy haven for night owls, many ordering bottles of champagne

chandeliers that subtly call to mind hot-air balloons. As diners order Old

from the menu’s extensive sparkling selections and fortifying

Fashioneds, waiting for their grilled veal chops with truffle gnocchi, one

themselves with chicken club sandwiches. In addition, two more bars

can very much feel the history of this arch-dotted room over the din of

are on their way at the hotel: an al fresco destination on the roof and a

voices, and imagine the bankers of yore impatiently counting down the

hideaway in the old vault.

minutes until the time came for their own post-shift whisky.

But Bonnie’s is undoubtedly the mainstay, the timeless, animated restaurant that manages to seamlessly meld simplicity and swank.

www.bankhotel.se

IN A BITE Covers: 94 • Owner: Stureplansgruppen, Vimal Kovac • Developer/Investor: Stureplansgruppen • Architecture: Jonathan Söderblom • Head Sommelier: Fredrik Horn • Artwork: CFHILL

077

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SWEETS

Trends and insight into the global foodservice sector

“The flavours and texture should come through in every mouthful, rather than being dictated by where the food is placed.�

Adam Smith, Executive Chef at Coworth Park

SWEETS

Georgia’s Always on my Mind Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: © Argot Murelius (unless otherwise stated)

A blend of ancient tradition and modern hospitality is revitalising the F&B offer in the former Soviet republic.

The qvevri is still used to make wine in Georgia

The supra is one of the foundations of Georgian hospitality

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SWEETS

T

he guest is the gift from God is a common local

foundations of Georgian hospitality. The supra, which lasts

folk proverb in Georgia, which explains much of

for hours and encompasses the best local food and wine, is

the underlying hospitality that one receives when

characterised by an elaborate procedure led by the tamada

visiting this former Soviet republic bordering Russia,

(toastmaster), complete with injections of polyphonic music

Azerbaijan, Armenia and Turkey. Nestled in between the

and loud political debates. Often the dishes are specific to

Caucasus mountains in the north, deserts in the south and

each historical province, and so are the songs and dances.

the Black Sea in the west, this tiny country has long been

In Georgia, a night in a local restaurant, or at someone’s

a political hotspot, resulting in a complex history. But

home, will most likely be a journey through the history of

despite the many hardships that locals have had to endure

the country.

down the years, Georgia remains immensely proud of its

So what sort of food can you expect on your plate? Well,

heritage, fully embracing the influences of the past on its

the country produces a host of ingredients that appear

unique F&B culture.

again and again in its most popular meals. Small shops and

Georgia’s winemaking traditions, which go back 8,000

markets around Georgia have an abundance of walnuts,

years, are a case in point. Some producers still use an age-

hazelnuts, garlic, herbs and spices, which are the perfect

old clay vessel known as a qvevri; the grapes are fermented

accompaniment to the numerous cheese and meat dishes.

with their mashed skins and stems in underground

One of the staples of the Georgian dining table is the open

conditions, giving the more traditional white wines an

cheese bread known as khachapuri; many cheese varieties

amber-like hue, whilst the reds have a certain punchiness

can be used, but the most common is a lightly salted fresh

to them. “In Georgian, the word qvevri means ‘that which is

cow’s milk. The best-known variety of the bread, the

buried below’,” explains John Wurdeman, co-founder of the

Adjaran kind, has a whole egg yolk and a slice of butter

Pheasant’s Tears winery in the eastern province of Kakheti.

dropped in the middle, making the dish heavy yet delicious.

Many Georgian winemakers now use the more common

By adding seasonal bean stuffing and aromatic herbs to the

method of barrel ageing, it is true, but their unfiltered,

bread, the dish becomes known as lobiani.

organic wines are also making inroads into top restaurants around the world.

Kakheti, about 90 minutes’ drive from the capital Tbilisi,

Another Georgian favourite that nods to the east is the khinkali dumpling. Filled with spiced meat that flavours the juices inside, there is a particular way to eat this mouth-

is notable for having more than 500 grape varieties. Many

watering dough ball: slurping up the broth, before going

of these are veritable tongue-twisters – try memorising

for the filling. Sweet dishes are also on the menu here; a

red ones such as saperavi and tavkveri or their white

well-known dessert that makes for a colourful backdrop

counterparts rkatsiteli and mtsvane – though it is surely

on market photos is churchkhela, a dried string of walnuts

only a matter of time before more western restaurants

repeatedly dipped into a hot grape mix.

begin to stock them, especially given the region’s notable

Whilst the food and drink traditions of the country are

track record of crafting wines free from chemicals and

deeply rooted in the past, moves are afoot to bring more

additives such as sulphites. “The Georgian way of making

contemporary touches to the kitchens of Tbilisi. One of

wine is the closest and most gentle way from vineyard to

the pioneers of modern Georgian cuisine is leading chef

glass,” adds Wurdeman.

Tekuna Gachechiladze, who runs a restaurant, Café Littera,

In Georgia, winemaking goes hand in hand with the

and a cooking school, Culinarium, in the capital. Trying to

country’s food culture. Tbilisi was once a trade stop on the

break down the culinary walls so tenaciously built up by the

Silk Road so it is no wonder that a typical table here spans

country’s long Soviet occupation, Gachechiladze is quick to

an array of world cuisines. There is also an entire custom

admit that her early days were not the easiest, especially

of feasting, or supra as it is called locally – one of the

as a female chef. Nowadays, however, the huge tourism

083

SWEETS

Stamba Hotel won The New Concept of the Year award at AHEAD Europe Photography: © Adjara Group

“The Georgian way of making wine is the closest and most gentle way from vineyard to glass.”

and dedication quickly paid off and as a result gained him

John Wurdeman, co-founder of the Pheasant’s Tears winery

the group’s latest innovative opening in Tbilisi, Stamba Hotel,

widespread international acclaim from across the industry. At the AHEAD Europe ceremony held in London in November 2018, won New Concept of the Year award. This conversion of an old publishing house into a modern hotel received lavish praise

influx and growing expatriate population have combined to help

from the judges for “complementing the Brutalist nature of the

Gachechiladze’s cooking gain both a national and international

original architecture, whilst bringing a new lease of life to the

following.

locale”. Besides Stamba, the group’s varied portfolio also includes

On the topic of tourism arrivals, Georgia has most definitely

and Holiday Inn Tbilisi, with many more noteworthy projects

rose by 30% in the second quarter of 2018 compared to a year

currently under development.

earlier, and there is growing awareness of the need to provide

It is clear that Georgia will continue to attract curious travellers,

foreign visitors with suitable accommodation, eating venues

especially experience-seeking millennials who are keen to explore

and infrastructure. With many hotel projects in the pipeline, and

and live adventurously. Whilst the capital city of Tbilisi and the

major brands jostling to establish a foothold in the Caucasus,

adjacent Kakheti wine region are the easiest to visit, especially for

today’s market looks more appetising than ever before for those

a long weekend, the magnificent remote mountains of Tusheti,

working in hospitality.

the resort town of Batumi on the Black Sea, the snowy peaks

One of the biggest visionaries in the country’s hotel sector

084

Rooms Hotel Tbilisi, Rooms Hotel Kazbegi, Fabrika Hostel Tbilisi

put itself on the map in the last couple of years. Tourism spend

of Gudauri and the Caucasian uplands of Kazbegi also stand

is Valeri Chekheria, CEO of Adjara Group, who, after spending

to benefit. Rising from the ashes of the Soviet era, modern-

many years in New York, moved back to his homeland looking

day Georgia is a phoenix flying high – and hungry to share its

to make a big impact on the domestic market. His hard work

distinctive take on F&B with the wider world.

PASSION FOR BUFFET

Our expertise for your luxury buffet presentation

www.tigerhotel.co.kr

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06/12/2018 14:44:47

SIGNATURE

Ember-Grilled Banana Blossom Rice

Photography: © Jason Michael Lang

Nahm Como Metropolitan Bangkok

Pim Techamuanvivit, the prominent Thai chef who first made her name

young green rice from an organic co-operative in Suphan Buri Province,

in San Fransisco, took over Nahm at the 169-room Como Metropolitan

organic pork from Sam Phran District, wild prawns from Songkhla

Bangkok in May 2018 following the departure of Australian-born cook

Province, a traditional Thai paste made from cilantro root, garlic and white

David Thompson. Her new dishes remain true to the restaurant’s original

pepper, grilled banana blossoms and banana leaves.

vision of delivering authentic Thai cuisine, while bringing a renewed focus

After preparing the rice with the pork, prawns and Thai paste, she cuts

on farmers and artisan food producers – an approach that helped Nahm

up the banana blossoms and carefully folds them in, introducing fresh and

retain its star in the latest edition of the city’s Michelin Guide.

aromatic notes that contrast nicely with the more savoury elements. The

Exemplifying her culinary ethos is this ember-grilled banana blossom rice dish inspired by a recipe in an old Thai cookbook, which advises mixing

mixture is then placed into a banana-leaf boat and served on a rustic plate decorated with a bed of green banana leaves and pink banana blossoms.

rice with pork and a fragrant paste, stuffing it into a hollowed-out banana blossom and grilling slowly over charcoal. Chef Pim’s version features

www.comohotels.com

xxx

Marinated Scallops, Avocado, Radish and Pig’s Head Restaurant Coworth Park, Coworth Park, Ascot

In his role as Executive Chef at Coworth Park, part of the Dorchester Collection, Adam Smith has garnered plaudits aplenty for the modern British cuisine served at this beautiful country-house hotel in south-east England. The property’s fine-dining restaurant embodies his mantra that ‘taste is king’ by celebrating the best seasonal ingredients from artisan food producers, an approach that helped the venue retain its Michelin star for 2019.

This dish is typical of Smith’s culinary philosophy, as it plays on the flavour contrast between raw hand-dived scallops and hot pig’s head beignets, cut with fresh avocado purée. Pickled cucumber, thinly sliced radishes, herbs and flowers complete the dish, which is offered to guests as part of a tasting menu as well as à la carte.

To serve, each component is thoughtfully positioned in a crescent shape on elegant plates by Goodfellows, accompanied by high-quality Heritage Collection cutlery. “When we plate any dish at Restaurant Coworth Park, we plate it in such a way that the guest will experience all of the ingredients without having to be instructed on what to eat first and how,” explains Smith. “The flavours and texture should come through in every mouthful, rather than being dictated by where the food is placed.” www.dorchestercollection.com

000

SIGNATURE

Coal-Roasted Beetroot Salad The Baptist L’Oscar, London

When Tony Fleming, the highly regarded English cook who trained under

stylish plate by Montgolfier, neatly offsetting the bright pink beetroot

Marco Pierre White and Richard Neat, joined new London boutique L’Oscar

powder sprinkled liberally over the top.

as Executive Chef from Michelin-starred Angler, he immediately set to

The result is a beautiful dish that more than holds its own in the

work developing a grill-focused menu guided by the British seasons for

spectacular surroundings of The Baptist, which occupies a Grade II*-

its signature restaurant The Baptist. This coal-roasted beetroot salad with

listed octagonal chapel dating back to the Edwardian era. Other notable

hazelnuts, dates and rose yoghurt, created in collaboration with Head Chef

menu creations include the umami-rich suckling pig belly with miso and

Tim Peirson, clearly demonstrates the kitchen’s capacity to produce dishes

salt-baked turnip; a picture-perfect butternut pithivier featuring sage,

that deliver on flavour as well as visual impact.

parmesan, mustard fruits and a rich mushroom sauce; and an innovative

A winter salad that brings together golden, purple and candied beetroot

coconut, pineapple and tonka bean mousse accompanied by mango jelly

with mouthwatering pink grapefruit, bitter salad leaves and hearty chopped

and pineapple sorbet. Many items are presented on elegant crockery

hazelnuts, the dish is elevated further by the addition of a creamy rose

specially designed for L’Oscar by Royal Crown Derby.

yoghurt and a sweet date syrup that effortlessly cuts through the other flavours. It is served with fine Heritage Collection cutlery on a dark and

www.baptistgrill.com

Photography: © Paul Winch-Furness

www.montgolfier.fr

SIPPING

Trends and insight into the global drinks trade

“We’ve seen a downward trend in alcohol consumption and sugar-based drinks in recent years, and we believe this is due to the awareness of, and the increase in, personal wellness.”

Tony Fowler, Director, O’Shaughnessy Drink Company

On the Rocks Irish whiskey, a category that nearly died out in the last century, is booming once more – with exciting expressions that appeal to casual drinkers and connoisseurs alike.

092

SIPPING

Words: Richard Frost

I

rish whiskey is currently in the midst of an

The transformation since then has been nothing

extraordinary renaissance, which makes it all the

short of astonishing, and there are now thought to be

more remarkable to think that the industry once

21 distilleries operating in total.

came within a whisker of dying out completely.

One of Europe’s oldest distilled drinks, Irish

Before going any further, however, it may be useful to consider what exactly is meant by the term ‘Irish

whiskey’s heyday came in the mid-19th century

whiskey’. To qualify, a spirit’s production must

when it ruled the roost as the single largest global

take place somewhere on the island of Ireland, have

spirits category, with more than 12 million nine-

a minimum ABV of 40%, and fall into one of four

litre cases made every year according to the Alcohol

distinct categories: pot still, grain, malt or blended.

Beverage Federation of Ireland. This success would

Irish whiskey must also be matured in wooden casks

prove to be short-lived, however, as business was

for a minimum of three years although, contrary

decimated by a cocktail of damaging factors in the

to popular belief, it does not have to be made

first half of the 20th century: two world wars, sharply

exclusively from barley, free from the influence of

deteriorating relations with the rest of the British

peat, triple-distilled, or matured in sherry casks.

Isles, and Prohibition in the US (leading to a flood

In fact, Irish distilleries enjoy a huge degree of

of low-quality counterfeits from bootleggers). The

flexibility when it comes to the processes allowed in

last remaining producers gradually came to the

crafting their whiskey – arguably much more than

conclusion that joining forces would benefit them

their counterparts working on scotch or bourbon

all, paving the way for the creation of a new whiskey

(the Irish can age their spirit in any type of wood,

powerhouse called Irish Distillers in 1966.

for instance, whereas scotch producers must rely on

Here at Irish Distillers’ base in Midleton, County

oak, and those making bourbon have to use virgin

Cork, the history of both the company and the spirit

oak). Even so, many Irish whiskeys still share several

itself is brought to life by the fabulous Irish Whiskey

common properties in the glass: sweetness on the

Archive. For archivist Carol Quinn, the watershed

nose, a silky mouthfeel, upfront flavours of fruit

moment came in 1988 when Irish Distillers was

and honey, and a relatively soft finish, resulting in a

acquired by drinks giant Pernod Ricard, giving it

markedly easy-drinking style.

access to much-needed investment and global

For countless consumers, Jameson Irish Whiskey is

distribution channels. The deal clearly had an

the first drink that springs to mind in this category;

immense impact, with sales of flagship product

the world’s best-selling version is a blend of pot still

Jameson soaring from 500,000 cases per year during

and fine grain whiskey aged in oak for a minimum of

the mid-1990s to 7.3 million cases by 2017/18.

four years, producing an approachable spirit with a

Nevertheless, the industry remained worryingly short

light floral fragrance and a delicate balance of spices,

Adare Manor’s exclusive Irish whiskey

of strength in depth for many years; it’s sobering to

nuts and vanilla on the palate. Another stalwart of

Photography: © Paul Lehane

reflect that, as recently as 2013, there were still only

the scene, Bushmills Irish Whiskey, is a blend of

four distilleries producing and selling Irish whiskey.

triple-distilled malt and a lighter grain whiskey,

093

“Going forward, Asia and the Far East is going to be a key focus for Irish whiskey export growth.”

William Lavelle, Head of the Irish Whiskey Association

characterised by a rich, smooth and gently

Brothership, a winning blend of smooth Irish

possesses an extensive whiskey collection

warming taste. Meanwhile, the Spot Whiskeys

malt whiskey and bold American whiskey.

comprising more than 100 rare bottles, mainly

range, named after the practice of daubing

Speaking of the US, the spiritual home of the

focused on Irish expressions – including a 1951

casks with different colours of paint according

cocktail, many Irish whiskeys are ideally suited

Knappogue Castle 36-Year-Old Cask 18 Private

to the ageing potential of the whiskey within,

to mixing because of their accessible flavour

Collection; this remarkable variety behind the

has gained plenty of market traction in a trend

profiles, and this potential is not lost on Irish

bar is one of the luxury hotel’s unique selling

likely to be boosted further by the revival of

Distillers. In Midleton, the company offered a

points. “Many of our guests comment on the

Red Spot Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey.

sneak preview of its latest innovation, Jameson

fact that they were aware of our collection

Cold Brew. A combination of Jameson Irish

prior to their arrival,” notes Brian Lawlor,

put an end to feverish speculation when it

Whiskey and cold-brew coffee extract crafted

General Manager of onsite restaurant The

announced that Red Spot, a whiskey last

from 100% Fairtrade-certified Arabica beans,

Carriage House. Building on this expertise,

seen in the mid-1960s, would be making a

sweetened with a touch of sugar, Jameson Cold

the property decided to host a special whiskey

comeback. The reimagined brand, which sits

Brew offers a real caffeine hit with charred

evening in November at which attendees

alongside the existing Green Spot and Yellow

wood on the palate and a pleasantly warming

sampled rare expressions of Midleton,

Spot, is a triple-distilled whiskey matured for a

finish. Bottled at 35% ABV, it promises to

culminating in the launch of an exclusive

minimum of 15 years in a combination of casks

give a distinctive twist to the likes of Cold

single pot still Irish whiskey, the Adare Manor

pre-seasoned with bourbon, oloroso sherry

Fashioneds, Cold Brew Martinis and Espresso

Midleton Very Rare. Tickets, priced at €2,000

and marsala fortified wine, and bottled at 46%

Martinis, as well as being highly refreshing

per head, entitled guests to their very own

ABV. “It has been 50 years since the world last

served over ice.

bottle at the end of the night. “The evening

In November 2018, Irish Distillers finally

saw Red Spot and whiskey enthusiasts have

was a huge success and thoroughly enjoyed by

long awaited its return,” says Kevin O’Gorman,

clearly a boon for those working in the island’s

all who attended,” says Lawlor. “It was a great

Master of Maturation at Midleton Distillery.

hospitality sector. At Restaurant Patrick

gathering of guests with all levels of interest in

“This is a bold whiskey that packs a punch,

Guilbaud, located in the heart of Dublin beside

whiskey: master distillers, collectors, investors

has incredibly rich flavours and an extra-long

the 142-room Merrion Hotel, contemporary

and connoisseurs.”

infusion of fruits and spices on the finish that

Irish cuisine with French classical influences

The future certainly looks promising for

provides a truly unique and colourful ending.”

is complemented by a whiskey collection that

what is now one of the nation’s calling cards.

Elsewhere, a host of up-and-coming

includes Jameson, Powers, Redbreast, Yellow

In October, Irish Distillers unveiled plans for

distilleries are making a name for themselves

Spot, Green Spot, Bushmills and Teeling.

a €150m investment into the company’s sites

by putting their own unique spin on the Irish

The island’s only double-Michelin-starred

in Cork and Dublin over the next two years in

whiskey category. Teeling is pushing the

restaurant has experienced a pick-up in Irish

response to the growing international success

boundaries of what can be achieved through

whiskey sales over the last couple of years,

of its whiskey portfolio. Earlier in the year,

careful wood management, with its multi-

according to the Paris-born restaurateur whose

meanwhile, the Irish Whiskey Association

layered Single Malt matured in no fewer than

name sits above the door, which he attributes

(IWA) revealed that the industry was on track

five different wine casks: port, sherry, madeira,

in part to the proliferation of choice in the

to sell 12 million nine-litre cases by 2020

white burgundy and cabernet sauvignon.

category. “I think there is more competition

– and laid down a target of doubling that

At the same time, Dingle is successfully

in this sector now, with a number of new

figure by 2030. “Recently we increased sales

introducing the category to beer aficionados –

distillers entering the market,” says Guilbaud.

across Europe and in emerging markets such

the distillery was created by the team behind

“This has led to more awareness and interest

as Canada, Mexico and Africa,” says William

pioneering Irish craft brewery Porterhouse

as marketing spend and budgets increase.” A

Lavelle, Head of the IWA. “Going forward, Asia

Brewing Company – and Echlinville is using

strong increase in tourism to the Emerald Isle

and the Far East is going to be a key focus for

barley grown in the surrounding fields to

is also fuelling the sales rise, he adds, with

Irish whiskey export growth.” Those dark days

achieve its goal of ‘producing spirit from

visitors from the US (by far Irish whiskey’s

back in the last century, when Ireland’s unique

field to glass’. Also worth noting is Connacht,

largest export market) especially interested in

brand of whiskey was almost lost to the world,

which is celebrating the special relationship

trying local produce during their stays.

now seem a very long time ago indeed.

between Ireland and the US in products such as

094

Irish whiskey’s new-found confidence is

Over in County Limerick, Adare Manor

SIPPING

Jameson Cold Brew combines Irish whiskey with Arabica coffee beans Photography: © Irish Distillers

Lost Irish whiskey Red Spot has been revived for the 21st century Photography: © Irish Distillers

Copper pot still outside the Old Midleton Distillery Photography: © Cathal Noonan

095

Whetting The Whistle As Dry January gains momentum and the health benefits of abstention become clearer, the non-alcoholic corner of the drinks market is seeing a surge in interest.

Words: Kristofer Thomas

O

nce a casual abstention challenge

3 million drinkers abstaining in 2018, and

passed between friends, recent

more set to join in this year. And with 29% of

geared towards their taste, with new recipes

years have seen Dry January go

the nation’s younger consumers now self-

and beverages released constantly and made

mainstream, and its evolution

identifying as non-drinkers – up from 18% in

widely available, those choosing to avoid are

from easier-said-than-done personal

2005 – all the signs point to the ubiquity of

often left with a limited amount of options, or

achievement to fully-fledged public health

alcohol in the contemporary social landscape

whatever the barman has left in stock. Luckily

campaign, complete with a formal charity arm,

being severely challenged.

for operators and straight-edge guests alike,

registration drives and scientific endorsement.

With its rise running parallel to that of

096

However, whilst Dry January encourages

Whilst alcohol drinkers have the market

focus is increasingly being placed on having

the avoidance of alcohol, it does not advocate

interesting alternatives, with soft drinks,

the wellness movement, the teetotal month

staying indoors on a Friday night as non-

mixers and non-alcoholic beverages with a

and its Sober October sequel reflect shifting

participating friends take to the pub, and

twist stepping up to take on some heavy lifting,

perceptions of alcohol amongst the general

although the figures show the movement

and affording those who choose to keep up

public, and especially the younger generations.

building steam, the majority of adult social

their newfound sobriety a variety of stand-ins

Particularly in the UK – where doctors warned

calls nonetheless remain inherently linked

that don’t skimp on taste or quality. Whether

in 2015 that an ingrained culture of heavy

to some kind of bar establishment. As such,

these be health-based concoctions in the vein

alcohol consumption could lead to 63,000

teetotallers during January and beyond – still

of kombucha and detox drinks, or mixers and

deaths in the next five years – the movement

part of the minority, let’s not forget – should

former fizzy sidekicks finding a new place in

has found something of a spiritual home, with

not be excluded from the fun.

the limelight, the rise of alternatives to fill the

SIPPING

void could finally give the monopoly of non-

mouthfeel they get from alcohol,” explains

the temptation as well as those seeking a way

brand orange juice, flat soda and water with ice

William Stern, Commercial Director, Peter

to boost their health, alternatives beyond soft

and lemon something to worry about.

Spanton. “They want an approximation of the

drinks and mixers are offering guests elements

burn and complexity of drinking alcohol, but

that promote both mental and physical

not the side effects.”

wellbeing. From the popularity of bubble tea

For London-based manufacturer Peter Spanton, this shift in attitudes towards alcohol has resulted in the development of

Within the same range, the Salted Paloma

and mineral drinks to the swathe of new juice

a beverage that can both stand alone as a

grapefruit soda holds notes of salt and lime for

and smoothie shops lining high streets, the

premium soft drink and be incorporated into

a sweet alternative with an edge, whilst the Dry

number of viable alternatives is increasing.

alcoholic beverages as a mixer; playing to both

Ginger ale is brewed as a nostalgic trip back to

Combining the desire for more specialised

crowds by way of tonics and sodas brewed

the 1950s, so no boozy reminiscing is missed.

options with the rise in wellness products and

for broad appeal. The brand’s London Tonic,

Spanton – a recovering alcoholic himself –

the emergence of a parallel movement – that

for example, boasts the shock of quinine,

keenly understands the balance involved in

is, changing perceptions towards cannabis

but is balanced out with Sicilian lemon oil

producing drinks for the sober market; that if

and related businesses – London-based

and bitter orange-peel essence. All of which

it tastes good, and in some cases mimics the

O’Shaughnessy Drink Company is developing

means that the drink retains a spirited kick

flavour profile of alcoholic drinks, then guests

beverages based around cannabidiol (CBD),

whilst remaining completely alcohol-free, a

might never notice the absence.

the non-psychoactive element of the often-

consistent feature across the range. “Some

Meanwhile, separate entirely from the spirit

people still want the same taste profile and

sphere, and ideal for those not wanting to risk

derided plant that demonstrates significant medicinal uses.

097

SIPPING

“The potential is massive for cannabis-

a downward trend in alcohol consumption

into uniform pieces, the Pro Series Juicer is

based beverages, explains Tony Fowler,

and sugar-based drinks in recent years, and

able to extract up to 10 gallons of juice per

Director, O’Shaughnessy Drink Company. “As

we believe this is due to the awareness of, and

hour using pre-cut fruit, keeping the well-

awareness about the benefits and the positive

the increase in, personal wellness. We believe

oiled bar machine working throughout periods

environmental impact of the plant grows, we

you don’t need to consume alcohol and sugar

of public sobriety, and pleasing both drinkers

predict the consumer demand for the products

to have a great time. But at the same time

and non-drinkers. Whilst the two groups might

will grow with it. We’ve already seen just here

we want to consume something that tastes

find multiple points to disagree on, consistency

in the UK a tenfold demand for the product in a

great, holds health benefits and has a positive

from straight orange juice through to mimosa

couple of years, and this will grow further.”

environmental impact.”

could work to keep everyone happy.

With the brand’s range currently featuring

Though the movement may still be in its

a hibiscus, raspberry, rooibos and vanilla

in alcohol consumption, many hospitality

early days, and we might be a good few years

mixture alongside a turmeric, lychee and

businesses would rightly laugh at the very idea

and some embarrassing Christmas party

citrus concoction, the focus on tasty natural

of going sober themselves. Regardless of how

stories away from Dry January turning more

ingredients is clear. However, with the infusion

popular abstention becomes, and despite the

people teetotal than not, it is nonetheless

of soluble full spectrum CBD, the drink takes

growing health concerns, a bar or pub’s bottom

perfectly possible that the future will be

on a host of additional characteristics provided

line would obviously suffer were it to shed its

significantly drier than the present. However,

by its star ingredient, stimulating without the

raison d’être. As such, the balance between

a litmus test for the movement’s prominence,

sugar and potentially aiding with metabolic,

keeping up with the public and appealing

and how responsive the culture is to Dry

hormonal, psychological and immune

to dedicated drinkers is just as important to

January, will perhaps be how long it takes for

functions. Though swapping out alcohol with

operators as it is to the brands behind these

these non-alcoholic beverages to appear on the

cannabis may seem counterintuitive to some,

alternative drinks.

back bar. The options are certainly out there,

CBD leaves users without the effects of active

098

Of course, whilst the reports show a decline

Enter Sunkist, perhaps best known for its

but more often than not require some degree of

ingredient THC, and could prove a lucrative

eponymous, orange-flavoured soft drink,

seeking out. If non-drinkers were to see their

line of business as the misconceptions

which has made its Pro Series Citrus Juicer and

establishment of choice stocking their drink of

surrounding the plant’s chemistry are clarified.

Sectionizer available to buy too. These time-

choice alongside the big hitters in line of sight,

“Our cordials were created to be stimulant-

saving devices enable bar staff to create the

this could not only promote a sense of loyalty

free alternatives to alcohol and sugar-rich

foundations of both fruit-based cocktails and

and inclusion, but also encourage those looking

beverages,” Fowler adds. “We intentionally

their healthier, spirit-free counterparts in next

for a lifestyle change to give sobriety a chance

designed our drinks to not have any potentially

to no time. Making quick work of wedging,

next January.

habit-forming ingredients in them. We’ve seen

slicing, coring or halving fruits and vegetables

DRINKS

PREMIUM QUALITY TONICS AND MIXERS CREATED TO SATISFY THE MORE DISCERNING ADULT PALATE

DISCOVER A Nยบ- OF REASONS TO CELEBRATE GOOD TASTE +44 (0) 20 3763 5665 | sales@peterspanton.com | www.peterspanton.com

SIPPING

City of Wine Long famed for its big reds, Bordeaux has transformed its tourism offering in recent years and now the city’s hotels are exploring new ways to win over wine connoisseurs.

Words: Nina Caplan

W

ine has been Bordeaux’s most

buildings glow pale gold, pedestrian zones and a tram

important export since at least the

system keep cars at bay, and a clever ‘water mirror’

16th century but, until recently, the

– a shallow sheet of water near Place de la Bourse –

city wasn’t much of an advertisement

both references the river and reinforces its glory.

for its legendary product. The buildings were dirty,

town and there’s an amazing wine museum, La Cité

dullest sense. There were cars everywhere and the

du Vin, a little farther north along the river bank,

river was blocked by the port.

its unique shape (designed to look like a wineglass

This last point seemed particularly significant. The

being swirled) like a logo for the new, exciting, wine-

Garonne and its sister river just a little further east,

focused incarnation of the city. This renaissance,

the Dordogne, are responsible for Bordeaux’s glory.

which has led to Bordeaux being classed as the

Sail into the Gironde estuary, towards the Bay of

world’s largest urban UNESCO heritage site, is the

Biscay, and you pass the most renowned vineyards

greatest possible gift to hotels both within the city

in the world: Margaux, Pauillac and Saint-Estèphe.

and among the surrounding vineyards, and they are

These wines’ ancestors have travelled north ever

responding with enthusiasm and creativity, finding

since Eleanor of Aquitaine married the soon-to-

new ways to familiarise guests with the wines – and

be King of England in 1152. Bordeaux was quite a

ensure that oenophile travellers’ mouths water at the

wedding present for the monarch of an unfeasibly

thought of Bordeaux the place as much as they have

thirsty nation, and the Bordelais have been profiting

always done over Bordeaux the drink.

ever since. Profit, or at least commercial nous, is

Within the city, the InterContinental hotel clearly

what they are famous for, which makes it odder still

has a location to be proud of, opposite the newly

that it took until this century for La Belle Endormie –

beautified columns of the Grand-Théâtre. Gordon

Sleeping Beauty, as the city was known – to become

Ramsay oversees its double-Michelin-starred

the tourist attraction it should be.

restaurant Le Pressoir d’Argent, which has 550 wines

Now, though, those beautiful 18th-century

100

New restaurants and bars have popped up all over

the hotels tired, the restaurants traditional in the

on offer, while his brasserie wittily pairs smartened-

Photography: © CIVB 147

La Cité du Vin Photography: © Anaka

A 2004 vintage of Chateau Cordeillan-Bages

102

Le Bordeaux Gordon Ramsay at InterContinental Bordeaux Le Grand Hotel

SIPPING

up British dishes (fresh fish and chips, truffle macaroni cheese) with an extensive list of local wines by the glass. For those who yearn to understand the fuss over the legendary, and legendarily expensive, Classed Growths, there are five concierges, including a dedicated wine concierge, able to organise tours and visits. The brasserie offers a Second Growth, Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 2011, by the glass thanks to Coravin, the wine machine that inserts a needle through the cork and fills the resulting space with inert gas, so that the bottle remains effectively unopened. It’s a great invention: a bottle that costs hundreds of euros can be tried in more affordable quantities – in this case, at €44 a glass.

Le Boutique Hotel is also eager to help guests improve their understanding of the region’s

La Grande Maison de Bernard Magrez

wines, but takes a different approach, centred on a pretty courtyard wine bar. Here, there are nightly blind tastings of local wines as well as frequent featured winemakers, not all local, or even French. This really is revolutionary.

Bordes. The very existence of Bordes’ role also

La Grande Maison, and Le Saint James, a hotel

France, for so long accepted by everyone as the

says a great deal about Magrez’s commitment

imaginatively modernised 30 years ago by

world’s greatest wine nation, has never felt

to making Bordeaux wine accessible. He owns

architect Jean Nouvel in Bouliac just outside

the need to give other countries much space

over a dozen vineyards here, and La Grande

the city – are part of the Relais & Chateaux

on the wine list. Often, its famous regions

Maison’s double-Michelin-starred restaurant,

(R&C) group, which prides itself on having

haven’t even acknowledged one another. So

overseen by Pierre Gagnaire, prides itself

luxurious, unusual, family-owned properties

for a prestigious hotel in Bordeaux of all places

on possessing a wine list offering every top

doing hospitality differently, and each is

to encourage the competition, and to boast

Growth. Those with the wherewithal may

attempting to demystify wine in its own way.

of having 250 wines of which 60% are from

choose to try the real Pape Clément from the

Le Saint James, for example, invites guests

Bordeaux, as though a range of options would

vintage they blended: there’s nothing like

to help harvest, should they happen to be

be more likely to entice wine-lovers, is a very

comparing your own results with the experts’

staying on the right day. It only takes one: this

welcome change.

to gain real understanding.

vineyard, visible from the Michelin-starred

There’s now a real effort to demystify wine

The more time-intensive (and expensive)

restaurant, is Bordeaux’s smallest.

– both the complicated hierarchy (actually,

version of this is Viniv at the prestigious

hierarchies) of estates and crus, and the

Lynch-Bages wine estate, which has a 28-

the Right Bank, the sumptuous Hostellerie

complexities of blends. Red Bordeaux is almost

room hotel in an elegant 19th-century building,

de Plaisance, another R&C property whose

always blended; on the Left Bank cabernet

Château Cordeillan-Bages, amid the vines. As

proprietors also own vineyard Château Pavie,

sauvignon predominates, while on the Right

well as vineyard picnics and tours, there’s the

offers accommodation in a separate four-

Bank merlot usually does. At the Bernard

option to make a barrel of premium wine. Viniv

room house overlooking those famous vines,

Magrez Cultural Institute, guests at the

offers 12 parcels from prestigious appellations

and entry through the right industry contacts

eponymous wine magnate’s renowned hotel

on both banks, the services of the Lynch-Bages

to some traditionally inaccessible wineries.

La Grande Maison, opposite, can test their

winemaker, and eventually 288 bottles of your

Magrez’s guests can even take spectacular

own palates: the B Wine Workshop involves

very own Bordeaux. Prices start at €15,000.

helicopter flights over the rolling vineyards.

blending cabernet and merlot from Classed

“They can use any proportion of anything

“We want to tailor every stay to the individual,

Growth Château Pape Clément, which Magrez

except Pomerol: not more than 20% of that,

so that guests feel both at home and on the

also owns, and heading back across the road

because there’s so little of it,” says Viniv Head

brink of discovering a whole new world of wine

with a bottle perfectly suited to their tastebuds.

of External Relations Lorraine Carrigan. After

and winemakers,” says Bordes. That balance,

It’s a very modern retro experience, the lovely

leaving their barrel to age for a few years,

between comfort and novelty, tradition and

building is 18th-century, as is the hotel.

clients can consolidate their new knowledge

modernisation, is hard to strike, but vineyards

at the hotel by participating in organised blind

have managed it for centuries, with their

investment in Bordeaux as a city of

tastings, or drinking a great bottle with dinner

mature vines producing quality new vintages

gastronomy,” says Magrez’s Director

in the double-Michelin-starred restaurant.

every year. Now at last, the world’s most

“This is part of Monsieur Magrez’s

of Oenotourism Development Caroline

Several of these hotels – Cordeillan-Bages,

Meanwhile, in pretty Saint-Émilion on

famous wine city is doing the same.

103

COCKTAILS

Big Fella The Back Room Shangri-La at The Fort, Manila

I

nspired by the nickname of notorious gangster Al Capone, Big Fella is a potent brew comprising Michter’s bourbon, Campari, Aperol and sweet

vermouth with a complementary garnish of fig and walnut. It’s one of 18 signature cocktails served in elegant Nachtmann glasses at The Back Room, a new speakeasy paying homage to the Roaring Twenties within Shangri-La at The Fort in Manila.

The drinks selection is overseen by the hotel’s Executive Mixologist Ulysse Jouanneaud, who has also created a special gin for the bar; Bee’s Knees combines three ingredients common to the Philippines – dalandan, malunggay and sampaguita – producing a dry gin with pronounced floral notes. Further reinforcing its mastery of mixology, the bar has its very own gin laboratory filled with homemade spirits and distillates for use in the adventurous beverage programme.

The Back Room’s cocktail menu is split into five categories: flavour-forward Jag Juice, glamorous Giggle Water, refreshing Live Wire, experimental Moonshine and sharing-oriented On a Toot. Patrons who successfully tackle Big Fella are then encouraged to sample other concoctions with a decidedly Prohibition flavour such as Machine Gun Jack (Bacardí Ocho, Cocchi Storico Vermouth di Torino and Amaro Averna), Razzle Dazzle (shiso distillate, amontillado sherry, lemon and chrystanthemum) and Ransom Note (tequila, pistachio, agave, lemon and hazelnut). www.backroomph.com

Photography: © Aldwin C. Aspillera

Anticuado Anthracite Great Northern Hotel, London

A

spicy Latin American twist on the iconic Old Fashioned cocktail, Anticuado is made by stirring together Montelobos mezcal, Calle 23 tequila, agave, chilli-cumin syrup and mole bitters over

ice. The fiery drink is served in a weighty Schott Zwiesel tumbler and garnished with a dehydrated grapefruit slice, two thin slivers of chilli and a dark chocolate-infused cherry.

Anticuado perfectly embodies the glamour of Anthracite, a new 90-cover martini lounge designed by Archer Humphryes within Great Northern Hotel at London’s King’s Cross station. Inspired by the hotel’s railway heritage, the venue takes its name from a type of coal that burns with a blue flame and was once used to power trains up and down the UK. This theme is cleverly reflected in the décor of the roomy firstfloor lounge, which features a charcoal colour palette brought to life by submetallic details and electric-blue trims.

As you might expect, martinis take centre stage at Anthracite, where the back bar showcases an extensive range of vodkas, gins and vermouths ready to satisfy even the most esoteric requests. All of which means that the bartending team can go full steam ahead producing unconventional serves such as the Coastal Martini (samphire-infused gin, cured lemon-infused Mancino extra dry, black pepper tincture, pumpkin, chilli oil and a seaweed crisp garnish) alongside perennial favourites like the Breakfast Martini and Espresso Martini. www.anthracitelounge.com

Photography: © John Carey

COCKTAILS

The Drug Mule

T

he Drug Mule is a refreshing drink built around O’Shaughnessy’s Hemp-Infused Hibiscus, Raspberry, Rooibos and Vanilla Cordial, a new

fruit syrup containing CBD and other non-psychoactive cannabinoids. Created by mixologist Fin Spiteri of Rochelle ICA in London, this innovative mocktail is made by combining the tropical cordial with lime juice and ginger ale, garnished with an optional slice of lime.

The botanical syrup itself features soluble CBD hemp extract lightly sweetened with stevia, and bolstered by the addition of vitamins B3, B6, B7 and B12. Equally pleasant mixed with either still or sparkling water, the vegan-friendly cordial is completely free of sugar and gluten. The O’Shaughnessy Drink Company’s product range is inspired by the pioneering work of Sir William Brooke O’Shaughnessy, the 19th-century

physician who introduced medicinal cannabis to the west, and seeks to help consumers take CBD more cheaply and effectively than ever before.

The company has also launched another syrup, HempInfused Turmeric, Lychee and Citrus Cordial, which boasts a bright and earthy flavour profile. “Feedback so far has been wonderful and lots of our clients have been using their cordials in creative ways, including to shake up cocktails and mocktails, ice lollies and jelly,” says founder Tony Fowler. www.oshaughnessy-drinks.com

Ingredients 25ml O’Shaughnessy’s Hemp-Infused Hibiscus, Raspberry, Rooibos and Vanilla Cordial 50ml lime juice Ginger ale to taste

info@oshaughnessydrinkcompany.com https://oshaughnessy-drinks.com

SIPPING

Straight in at Number One The serial entrepreneur behind No1 Botanicals explains how an extraordinary Italian village inspired him to turn his hand to soft drinks.

Words: Richard Frost • Photography: © Astrid Templier

T

he healthy-living trend has well and truly taken

sweeteners, preservatives, additives, colours or flavourings

off in recent years, with markets as diverse as the

– a sign of the times if ever there was one.

UK, the UAE, India, Mexico and several US cities introducing sugar taxes, celebrities and influencers

It’s certainly been a whirlwind start for David SpencerPercival, who founded the company with his wife Bonita

routinely sharing wellbeing advice with millions of

after having made his name in the recruitment business,

followers on social media, and many millennials turning

where he built up two hugely successful staffing agencies,

their backs on alcohol in a shift that would have been

Huntress and Spencer Ogden. So what inspired him to make

unthinkable just a generation ago.

the switch from staffing to soft drinks?

Here at the bustling London headquarters of soft drinks

For the answer to that, we must go back two years to

start-up No1 Botanicals, we can perhaps catch a glimpse

when Spencer-Percival made the fateful decision to pick up

of what these changes might mean for the future of the

a newspaper. “There was an article about a village in Italy

beverage industry. Just 18 months ago, the company

called Acciaroli,” he recalls. “This place has the highest

launched its first product, No1 Rosemary Water, a single-

density of centenarians in the world. One in ten Acciaroli

extract botanical drink combining the eponymous herb with

residents live to 100 whereas, across Europe as a whole, the

certified spring water that proved an instant hit in both

comparable figure is just one in 3,000.”

the off-trade (where stockists include Harrods, Harvey

Scientists investigating this anomaly soon discovered

Nichols and Selfridges) and the on-trade (not least top

that the villagers were supplementing their Mediterranean

London hotels like The Lanesborough and Brown’s). What’s

diet by eating rosemary on a near-daily basis, a herb

more, the product quickly attracted an army of celebrity

with strong anti-inflammatory properties that has long

fans such as Victoria Beckham, Gwyneth Paltrow and Stella

been associated with a range of health benefits, including

McCartney. Buoyed by this early success, No1 Botanicals

improving circulation and boosting memory. “I read the

wasted no time in raising a further £9m to support its rapid

story and thought, ‘note to self, must eat more rosemary’,

expansion plans, with the result being that the business

then quickly realised it’d be almost impossible to eat

is now rolling out nine additional varieties: basil, fennel,

enough,” he says. “So I thought I’d just drink it instead,

thyme, lemon verbena, meadowsweet, olive leaf, sage, mint

but couldn’t find anything with rosemary in it.” At this

and juniper. Each member of the range is not only alcohol-

point, Spencer-Percival’s entrepreneurial streak kicked in

free, but remarkably contains no sugar, salt, artificial

and he vowed to make his own drink, embarking on the

SIPPING

painstaking process of extracting each and every one of the fresh herb’s

200ml soda serve and a 60ml medicinal shot. From a hotel perspective,

compounds with the help of specialist manufacturer Blue Sky Botanics,

the 750ml and 330ml formats are ideally suited to drinking on a

all with a view to creating “a drink that’s as close as possible to what the

standalone basis or as a companion to food, whereas the 200ml version

villagers are eating”.

is aimed first and foremost at bartenders. “Our new sodas range has got

The result, No1 Rosemary Water, was an immediate success and

slightly higher carbonation and more extract in it because mixologists

Spencer-Percival realised that he’d struck on a winning formula. In a

told us that the flavour needed to pull through the alcohol more,” he

remarkable coup, he then managed to persuade Royal Botanic Gardens,

explains. “This will be carefully seeded across bars, restaurants and

Kew, the world-famous botanical research institution, to authenticate

hotels. The soda market is relatively untapped and we think we’ve got

and help select nine more herbs that could sit alongside rosemary in the

the right products.”

expanded range. It’s a partnership that Spencer-Percival is justifiably

Indeed, No1 Botanicals’ range of zero-sugar mixers has already

proud of – the drinks were launched at Kew and every bottle lid carries

caught the eye of many mixologists, not least Raffaele Marino, Head of

the institution’s logo – and he is under no illusion how valuable it could

Bar Department at The Arts Club in London. He has developed a seven-

prove in winning over any doubters. “With No1 Rosemary Water, we had

strong cocktail menu built around No1 Rosemary Water, which includes

a lovely backstory,” he says. “With the other botanicals, we needed a

creations like Sloe & Ro (featuring sloe gin), Longevity Americano

sense of authenticity regarding the extracts, and Kew gives us that.”

(incorporating Campari and red vermouth) and Forget Me Not Martini

Each herb was chosen according to two key criteria, taste and

(with gin or vodka and white vermouth). For his part, Spencer-Percival

wellbeing. According to Spencer-Percival, every botanical offers

recommends mixing mint with whisky to produce a distinctive twist on

significant health benefits – from rosemary (“it boosts your memory

the classic Mint Julep, meadowsweet with Scotch, or sage with mezcal,

by up to 15%) and fennel (“really good for menopausal symptoms”) to

but the truth is that the cocktail-making possibilities are near limitless.

lemon verbena (“a relaxant”) and olive leaf (“incredibly good for the

With so much choice on offer, No1 Botanicals is evidently positioning

skin”) – although he freely admits that launching so many products

itself to appeal as much to mixologists as those abstaining from alcohol,

simultaneously is not without its challenges. Others might have opted

and Spencer-Percival sees no contradiction in this dual-track approach

to stagger the new releases over several months or years, but he

since, as he points out, “I drink alcohol, but I also consume a lot of

quickly decided against this approach, reasoning that the advantages

rosemary water – I drink it every day and I feel great.” His fast-growing

involved in getting the full range to market far outweigh the difficulties

company, inspired by an ambitious dream of joining those Italian

of coordinating so many rollouts internationally. “For us, it’s a case

villagers in the centenarian club, certainly seems well-suited to current

of putting our flag in the ground today and saying to people, ‘we are

market trends, paving the way for its flagship brand to become the

botanical drinks and our range is as extensive as you need’,” he says.

number one drink of choice for health-focused consumers worldwide in

Adding further complexity to the launch strategy, the No1 Botanicals

the coming years.

range comes in a variety of glass-bottle sizes. There is a 750ml table serve (currently available just in rosemary), a 330ml single serve, a

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www.no1botanicals.com

Where form and function combine perfectly and quality is paramount. At Elia, innovation is second nature.

Please visit us at the following Trade Fairs:

Elia International Ltd. 10 Aintree Road Perivale, Middlesex UB6 7LA United Kingdom Tel +44 (0)20 8998 2100 Fax +44 (0)20 8997 5596 sales@elia.co.uk www.elia.co.uk

Top Drawer 13-15 January 2019, Stand D9 Ambiente 8-12 February 2019, Hall 4.1 Stand A74

Untitled-2 1

03/12/2018 18:31

DRINKS

VSOP Cognac Frapin With its roots in south-west France, where it started out as a winegrower before moving into distillation, the Frapin family has spent centuries carefully honing the process of producing fine cognacs, paving the way for today’s range of brandies.

Available in a 70cl bottle inspired by the VIP XO decanter, VSOP’s rich orange colour bears witness to the amount of time spent ageing in Limousin oak barrels. Upon opening, this delightful cognac boasts a refined nose that leads progressively from aromas of dried flowers to candied fruits, while in the mouth it reveals both power and roundness with a delicate harmony of fruity and slightly spicy tones.

The brandy echoes the family’s unique character, reflecting a French preoccupation with harmony and refinement. A spirit that achieves balance in showcasing the characteristics of its terroir: richness, simplicity, a complex yet elegant fusion of aromas and flavour.

VSOP is made from grapes produced in Cognac’s most exclusive region, Grande Champagne. Harvested, distilled and aged on the domaine, it is the quintessential expression of the Frapin style, perfect for drinking as an aperitif, during a meal or after dinner. www.cognac-frapin.com

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Celebris Extra Brut 2007 Vintage Champagne Gosset A beautifully complex and structured cuvée, the 2007 vintage is the latest addition to Champagne Gosset’s Celebris Extra Brut collection. Made from 57% chardonnay and 43% pinot noir grapes, the blend has a dosage of just 3 grams per litre so as to maintain the balance between freshness, fruit and vinosity without masking the wine’s personality and colour.

The 2007 vintage is pale yellow in colour with a continuous fine mousse. On the nose, it offers smoky and hazelnut notes that give way to minty, even slightly spicy, overtones upon warming in the glass. Tasting reveals an appealing crispness carried through to the middle palate with notes of brioche, before the delightful of chardonnay reappears on the finish with a hint of pink grapefruit.

Served at the recommended temperature of 10°C, this high-quality champagne enlivens the palate as an aperitif, but also pairs well with subtly spicy dishes and sweetand-savoury combinations. “Good vintage years ending in a ‘7 have been few and far between since 1947,” says Cellar Master Odilon de Varine. “Celebris 2007 benefits from ten years’ ageing in the cellar, giving the vintage a fair maturity and fine balance.” www.champagne-gosset.com

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DRINKS

Cordon Bleu Martell Awarded a Gold Medal in the XO category at the New York World Wine & Spirits Competition 2018, Martell Cordon Bleu boasts an elegant complexity on the palate.

A blend of more than one-hundred eaux-devies, the spirit stands out from the crowd due to its unusually high proportion of Borderies, expanding on its caramelised character with the smoothness of sweet spices, gingerbread and roasted cocoa beans.

The classic cognac features hints of crystallised plums and apples on the nose, complemented by roasted notes of coffee, almonds and vetiver. These distinctive properties make it perfect for special occasions, ideally served neat or with a splash of water.

Martell, the oldest of the great cognac houses, was founded by Jean Martell in 1715, a period when the French were renowned internationally for their devotion to gastronomy, taste and craftsmanship.

These became the key pillars of the House of Martell, and remain intrinsic to the brand’s vision today. For three centuries, Martell has produced and exported cognacs that are recognised worldwide for their quality and finesse, achieved through the double distillation of exclusively clear wines aged in fine-grained oak casks. www.martell.com

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The oldest Wine House in Champagne: AĂż 1584

Europe 2019 Supper ad.qxp_Layout 1 11/06/2018 13:59 Page 2

9–11 April 2019 Le Méridien, Monaco

S

uppliers of restaurant, bar and banqueting equipment, furniture, lighting and menu items who are targeting Europe’s group‐level hospitality decision makers, find TO THE TABLE Europe to be the most productive and valuable event in the industry calendar.

Meet exclusively the most senior group‐level heads of hospitality, restaurants and bars for all properties in the European region. ● Pre‐selected appointment schedule for each supplier, with your own private meetings and product display area. ● No stand build, no exhibition, just high‐level 30‐minute strategic meetings with Europe’s top F&B industry leaders. ● Three evenings of top class networking dinner functions, with outstanding F&B, to cement your new relationships.

Efficient, targeted, and extremely cost effective!

For details on all TO THE TABLE events, please see:

www.tothetableforums.com or contact Justin Wall: justin@tothetableforums.com

EVENTS Key events in the global hotel F&B calendar

Table

Global Restaurant Investment Forum

To The Table Europe

13-15 January 2019

25-27 February 2019

9-11 April 2019

London

Amsterdam

Monaco

Maison & Objet

AHEAD Asia

To The Table MEA

18-22 January 2019

7 March 2019

29 April - 1 May 2019

Paris

Singapore

Abu Dhabi

AHEAD Global

Hotelex

Sleepover

28 January 2019

1-4 April 2019

5-7 May 2019

London / New York

Shanghai

Ibiza

Ambiente

Forty One Madison

HOFEX

8-12 February 2019

2-5 April 2019

7-10 May 2019

Frankfurt

New York

Hong Kong

117

EVENTS NEWS Previews of key events in the global hotel F&B calendar

Photography: © Messe Frankfurt Exhibition/Petra Welzel

118

Photography: © Richard Pereira

Ambiente

To The Table Europe and MEA

8-12 February 2019 Frankfurt

9-11 April 2019, Monaco 29 April-1 May 2019, Abu Dhabi

Organisers offered a sneak peak of what to expect when Ambiente

To The Table has released fresh details about its forthcoming

returns in February during a special preview at Tom Dixon’s new

Europe and MEA editions.

headquarters in King’s Cross, London. The eponymous British

Taking place at Monaco’s Le Méridien Beach Plaza from 9-11

designer was among those present in honour of the fact that

April, To The Table Europe will welcome top buyers from the

his studio will exhibit for the first time in 2019, with a presence

likes of AccorHotels, Hilton Worldwide and Radisson Hotel

focused “not just on selling things, but telling stories”.

Group. The seminar programme, hosted by Supper’s Consulting

Last year’s event welcomed 133,582 trade visitors – of which

Editor Heleri Rande, will include 3Stories co-founder Ben Webb

59% came from outside Germany – and 4,376 exhibitors across

and Craig Milne of Marriott International exploring the future

dining, living and giving. Confirmed exhibitors this time around

of hotel restaurant design; and Jozef Youssef, founder and Chef-

include Villeroy & Boch, Steelite, Georg Jensen, Pordamsa,

Patron of Kitchen Theory, explaining multi-sensory gastronomy.

Zieher, RAK Porcelain, Stölzle Lausitz, Toyo-Sasaki Glass and

To The Table MEA will run from 29 April-1 May at Rosewood

Studio William, while expert speakers will address topics such as

Abu Dhabi, with representatives from Anantara Hotels & Resorts,

customer touchpoints, store layouts and social media.

Hyatt International and Mövenpick Hotels & Resorts among the

Ambiente’s partner country for 2019 is India. Jaipur-based

high-profile buyers. Middle Eastern hospitality expert Devina

designer Ayush Kasliwal will curate a presentation showcasing

Divecha will host the seminars, which include Gorgeous Group

traditional Indian craftmanship, while Sandeep Sangaru, a

founder Robbie Bargh reflecting on the importance and power

multidisciplinary designer from Bengaluru, will oversee the

of a brand; and Aegis Hospitality co-founder Samer Hamadeh

creation of a café with a subcontinent-inspired ambience.

discussing concept creation and bucking the trend.

www.ambiente.messefrankfurt.com

www.tothetableeurope.com / www.tothetablemea.com

PROVEN TRUSTED M A K E A D R A M AT I C S TAT E M E N T O N Y O U R P L AT E A N D I N Y O U R S PA C E

Stone Hearth & Specialty COMMERCIAL COOKING EQUIPMENT

+1.360.650.1111

woodstone-corp.com

To The Table Asia 9-11 October 2018 Kuala Lumpur

Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: © Richard Pereira

120

The Asian edition of To The Table took place at the Grand

Resorts, Marriott International and Pan Pacific Hotels Group,

Hyatt Kuala Lumpur in October 2018, providing three days

and suppliers like Cocoon Concept, NORDAQ and Pordamsa.

of invaluable networking opportunities, informative seminar

The seminar part of the programme was chaired by Supper’s

sessions and consistent culinary excellence amid the

Consulting Editor Heleri Rande. The opening session on

spectacular backdrop of the Petronas Towers.

restaurant design, trends and innovations in the Asia-Pacific

Around 120 attendees, spanning both the buyer and

region was engagingly delivered by Rob Polacek, Chief Creative

supplier sides, travelled from across the region to showcase

Officer and Partner at San Francisco-based Puccini Group.

their market-leading products, discover innovative new

“We have seen a larger movement in the west away from the

solutions in the hotel F&B supplier space and develop their

idea of a ‘hotel restaurant’ inside a recognisable brand,” he

industry knowledge. The latest instalment of To The Table

said. “That trend has now moved east, with concepts making

Asia recorded strong attendance figures, with over 70% new

a concerted effort to depart from the traditional confines of

delegate or company buyers and 40% new suppliers making

their brand to offer visitors a range of different experiences.”

an appearance; welcome additions to the mix included

The afternoon panel, meanwhile, focused on the region’s

representatives of buyers such as Shangri-La Hotels and

definition of luxury dining. An esteemed line-up – including

EVENTS

Rainer Zinngrebe, Vice President of Culinary and Luxury Brands at Marriott International; Anurag Bali, Director of Corporate F&B, Projects & Development at Shangri-La International; and Karen Hay, Founder & Creative Director of INdulge – kept the conversation lively, offering many key takeaways to the audience. Something that resonated throughout the discussion was the importance of catering to the very specific profile of the modern millennial Asian traveller, a consumer who relies heavily on technology and is constantly looking for curated experiences. “Authenticity is key, variety on the other hand is losing ground,” said Bali.

“Our audience is well-informed and looking for those niche experiences. As an example, a South-East Asian restaurant is likely to get far less attention when pitched against a Northern Thai grill house. Furthermore, smaller menus with a focused regional story, as opposed to something more generic, can go a long way.”

The second day got off to an experiential start as chef Ian Kittichai, founder and Director of Cuisine Concept, did a live showcase of Thai classics, whilst speaking to Mathurot Chuladul of Harvest Cotton Tale Hospitality about the widespread popularity of pop-ups. It became clear that live demos such as this can add tremendous value to hotel restaurants by exposing the creativity of chefs and their teams to new audiences, as well as providing beneficial media exposure to the in-house team, the restaurant and the hotel brand in general.

The last panel session honed in on China, looking more closely at the domestic restaurant industry and Chinese diners across the Asia-Pacific region. Cory Winter, Vice President of F&B and Regional Vice President of Operations in Greater China at AccorHotels, opened the session with an overview of the world’s most populous country, which has 1.4 billion citizens and a huge outbound travel market. And the other panel member, Rachel Gouk, who has spent the last seven years writing about the food and drink industry in Shanghai, stressed the need for restaurants and bars to be able to handle cashless transactions, as well as provide menus and services in Chinese.

In addition to the back-to-back meetings, engaging debates and dynamic showcases, the conference programme also included ample time for delegates to mingle sociably, sample the many Instagrammable displays of food and drink set out by the host venues on all three evenings, and take in the spectacular Kuala Lumpur skyline.

To The Table Asia will return again in October 2020. www.tothetableasia.com

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EVENTS

Photography: Courtesy of Dubai World Trade Centre

GulfHost

Sleep + Eat

30 October-1 November 2018 Dubai

20-21 November 2018 London

GulfHost, the hospitality equipment and sourcing expo for the

Sleep + Eat, which added a restaurant and bar element to its hotel

Middle East, Africa and Asia, made a successful return in 2018

design focus for the first time, made a seamless move to Olympia

following its inaugural 2017 edition.

London in November 2018. A record number of designers and

Taking place at the Dubai World Trade Centre, GulfHost highlighted the latest trends shaping the F&B industry alongside

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buyers from across the hospitality sector attended the annual show, helped in part by a 24% rise in international visitors.

three complementary shows: The Speciality Food Festival, Seafex

The Eat conference, curated by Supper Consulting Editor Heleri

Middle East and Yummex Middle East. Combined, these four

Rande, proved immensely popular. Highlights included Romée

events provided a platform for 2,500 brands showcasing more

de Goriainoff of Experimental Group, and Joerg Meyer, Head of

than 8,000 products, and welcomed tens of thousands of visitors

Bar at 25hours Hotels, discussing how beverage programmes

over the course of three days.

can drive revenue growth; Guillaume Marly, Managing Director

Among those present in Dubai were Alto-Shaam, WMF Group,

of Hotel Café Royal, revealing how the property created a buzz

Sunkist Foodservice Equipment, Rational, Karlowsky, Scholl,

around F&B; and Ido Garini, of Studio Appétit, stressing the need

ICEL, Fetco and Bunn. Meanwhile, the GulfHost Meetings

to tell stories rather than merely sharing food images online.

Programme helped to facilitate a host of deals by connecting

The inaugural Eat Sets were also well-received. Anticaff by

buyers with relevant suppliers, and the GulfHost Restaurant

3Stories reimagined the traditional British café, while a separate

Development Programme saw expert speakers debate topics

project by the studio showcased F&B experiences through VR,

such as business modelling, financing and brand development.

and Technostalgia by Shalina Misra celebrated the clubs of the

The next instalment of GulfHost will run from 6-8 April 2020.

1980s. Sleep + Eat will return from 19-20 November 2019.

www.gulfhost.ae

www.sleepandeatevent.com

LONDON & NEW YORK 9PM UTC 28 JANUARY 2019

OPEN FOR PUBLIC VOTING ON 3 JANUARY 2019

Organised By

Headline Sponsor

Trophy Sponsor

Global Sponsors

www.aheadawards.com

Foundation Sponsor

sensational exceptional original 8. – 12. 2. 2019 The outstanding diversity of the international consumer goods market. The experience of innovations and new concepts for the HoReCa sector. The trade fair that leads your industry into the future.

Information and tickets: ambiente.messefrankfurt.com Tel. +44 (0) 14 83 48 39 83 info@uk.messefrankfurt.com

67617-031_AM_HoReCa_Supper_242x281 • FOGRA 39 • CMYK • bs: 02.10.2018

DU: 28.09.2018

England

the show

SIDES

Showcasing the products and services bringing F&B venues to life

“The minibar is now seen as a way to engage with the guest, to either pamper them after a long day or to bring to their attention the opportunities that surround them, such as local produce and tastes.�

Marco Buoso, Business Unit Manager, Hospitality at Indel B

SIDES

Rethinking The Minibar Once synonymous with uninspiring beverages and mass-produced snacks, the hotel minibar finally gets a much-needed makeover.

Words: Ben Thomas

O

ne of the first things guests do

Cocktail’s International Bartender of the Year

its range of mixers – stocked at The Ivy and

on entering a hotel room is check

in 2015 – via minibars stocked with some

Jin Bo Law in London amongst other venues

what the minibar has to offer, but

of his pre-bottled concoctions. Across the

– to Hilton guests around the world. From

all too often they are met with

pond in Park City, Utah, Waldorf Astoria has

traditional tipples such as London Soda and

the disappointment of run-of-the-mill items

rolled out a personalised minibar scheme

Dry Ginger to experimental tonics flavoured

that can be found much cheaper elsewhere.

featuring aprés-ski delights from inventive

with chocolate, lemongrass and cardamom, the

Nevertheless, this could all be set to change

cocktail ingredients to artisanal chocolates

British manufacturer’s thirst-quenchers can be

as operators begin to re-evaluate the types of

and beer. Meanwhile, The Langham in New

enjoyed with or without alcohol, meaning they

products they are stocking, abandoning the

York offers those staying in the Roche Bobois-

also cater to travellers living a no- or low-

standard fare in favour of something a little

designed Presidential Suite special access to

alcohol lifestyle.

more memorable.

Michael White’s Kitchen – a pantry of snacks,

From small-batch treats to locally distilled

experiences, and the products in the minibar

beverages and tailor-made experiences, the

the famed chef himself, sourced from nearby

have to offer that as ultimately they are a

minibar has witnessed a substantial evolution

Italian grocery mecca Eataly.

reflection of the hotel’s personality,” says

in recent years. At Mondrian London at Sea

126

“Guests are looking for new and interesting

beverages and cooking ingredients curated by

Looking to capitalise on the growing demand

Commercial Director, William Stern. “The

Containers, guests are invited to sample

for such experiences, premium beverage

minibar itself also has to become more

the works of in-house drinks master Ryan

brand Peter Spanton is working with Hilton’s

approachable, less like a black box that will

Chetiyawardana, aka Mr Lyan – Tales of the

DoubleTree and Canopy brands to introduce

charge you a fortune if you choose to pick

127

SIDES

something up, and more like a place to store ingredients that guests are

compressor unit, equipped with two energy-saving technologies: the

invited to play with.”

Smart System, monitoring the cooling levels according to whether a

Following new innovations in technology and design, however, the

system that functions via an eutectic plate and remote control. Silent

become a thing of the past. Electronics brand Marshall Amplification

and smart, the new concept also makes use of a pull-out design with the

has ventured into the market with smart units inspired by its amplifiers,

choice of a standard or customisable wooden door panel, and features

whilst kitchen-appliance designer Jenn-Air has engineered vintage-

two refrigerated compartments that can become one when required.

style undercounter systems suitable for use in the residential sector.

“Once seen as a boring, unattractive appliance likely to be hidden

Elsewhere, Italian manufacturer Indel B has collaborated with architect

somewhere and kept empty for most of its lifetime, the minibar has

Massimo Mussapi to create a wall-mounted FlyingBar concept, which

now evolved to become a key element of hotel design, harmonically

improves guest accessibility whilst simultaneously cutting costs for

integrated within the guestroom setup to deliver a better guest

operators. The minibar features an ultra-thin body with a sleek glass

experience,” Buoso adds. “The minibar is now seen as a way to engage

door, and boasts an energy-saving cooling system utilising the firm’s

with the guest, to either pamper them after a long day or to bring to

patented EcoSmart technology.

their attention the opportunities that surround them, such as local

Marco Buoso, Business Unit Manager, Hospitality, at Indel B, highlights the role that energy efficiency, together with quietness,

products and tastes.”

With hotels seeking new ways to address growing traveller demands

lifespan and cooling capacity, have played in the development of the

for an immediate yet personalised service, it comes as no surprise

minibar. “The true turning point was bringing compressor technology to

that the minibar has evolved into an outlet for delivering tailor-made

the hotel room,” he says. “Switching from traditional, highly inefficient,

amenities. By stocking premium goods, curating authentic experiences

ammonia-based systems to smart and ultra-silent compressors has

and reducing operational costs through energy-efficiency, hoteliers are

allowed us to reach otherwise unachievable performances and savings.”

crafting miniature yet profitable destination bars that guests can enjoy

Efficiency is also the watchword for Indel B’s KD50 drawer

128

guestroom is vacant or occupied; and the quiet compressor cooling

lifelessness long-associated with old-fashioned minibars may soon

without the need to change out of their bathrobe.

MIC Studio

IndelB_236x275_300dpi.pdf

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

1

11/12/18

17:33

MEA 2019 Supper ad.qxp_Layout 1 11/06/2018 09:53 Page 2

29 April – 1 May 2019 Rosewood Abu Dhabi

S

uppliers of restaurant, bar and banqueting equipment, furniture, lighting and menu items who are targeting MEA’s group‐level hospitality decision makers, find TO THE TABLE MEA to be the most productive and valuable event in the industry calendar.

Meet exclusively the most senior group‐level heads hospitality, restaurants and bars for all properties in the MEA region, in one 5‐star venue. ● Pre‐selected appointment schedule for each supplier, with your own private meetings and product display area. ● No stand build, no exhibition, just high‐level 30‐minute strategic meetings with MEA's top F&B industry leaders. ● Three evenings of top class networking dinner functions, with outstanding F&B, to cement your new relationships.

Efficient, targeted, and extremely cost effective!

For details on all TO THE TABLE events, please see:

www.tothetableforums.com or contact Justin Wall: justin@tothetableforums.com

PETITS FOURS

Gastro

Pordamsa Pordamsa has added a new matte finish to its Gastro collection, combining style and functionality while offering chefs the possibility of exploring playful food presentations on its spacious surface. Bringing a contemporary look to tabletop arrangements, the porcelain series boasts a smooth feel with high scratch resistance, making it suitable for professional kitchens and high-flow hospitality environments. www.pordamsa.com

131

Willow

Steelite International Steelite’s Willow range comprises a series of wide-rim gourmet plates including pure glass pieces and smoked models that offer stylish presentation opportunities for fine-dining restaurants and banqueting venues.

The addition of two rich colour glazes with a jewellike effect further adds to the multi-level experience, elevating the embossed design of the collection’s signature items. www.steelite.com

132

PETITS FOURS

Chippendale

Motive Fine Crystal

Hepp has added a new monobloc steak and fruit knife to its popular Chippendale range, which comprises 19 cutlery pieces inspired by Baroque elegance. Available in a choice of surface finishes from 18/10 stainless steel and silver-plated to more contemporary stonewashed, glass bead blasted or PVD-coated versions, the cutlery caters to the requirements of both modern and traditional gastronomy, accentuating table arrangements with fine porcelain and sophisticated glasses.

Elia International has unveiled Motive Fine Crystal, a bold and contemporary glassware range that adds to its extensive tableware offering. Bringing an understated sense of luxury to the table, the mouthblown, lead-free crystal glasses boast a stylish modern silhouette with a dramatically angled bowl and narrow aperture, as well as a tapered chimney that helps to concentrate the aromas of robust wines and reveal their harmonies.

www.hepp.de

www.elia.co.uk

Mode Collection

Zen

Hepp

Rona

Elia International

WNK

Characterised by simplicity and modern lines, and produced using blowblow technology with laser treatment to the rims, Rona’s Mode Collection features wine glasses with square tapered bowls and long slender stems that accentuate a contemporary style. The Slovakian glassmaker has also launched a barware trio – specifically a highball, tumbler and shot glass – that channels modern design influences and is crafted from highquality crystalline glass.

The Zen range from WNK makes use of a simple and clean design that features streamlined handles to guarantee a firm grip in the hand. Made from polished 18/10 stainless steel with a mirror finish, the flatware series comprises 27 elegantly shaped pieces including table and dessert cutlery, while a gourmet spoon, fish knife and fish fork extend the offer along with serving items such as a soup ladle and cake server. Both standing and non-standing knives are also available.

www.rona.sk

www.wnk-hk.com

133

Chef n’ Table

Vidivi Vetri delle Venezie Created with Michelin-starred chef Vito Mollica, the Chef n’ Table range from Vidivi Vetri delle Venezie is based on the standard gastronorm measures, meaning that it is perfectly suited to the dimensions of professional ovens without leaving any wasted space. Optimising the concept of oven-to-table dining, the dishes’ deep base can be used either on their own or with a lid, which itself doubles as a shallow platter for serving directly to the table. www.vetridellevenezie.com

134

PETITS FOURS

Tea & Coffee

Atlantic

Handcrafted by Italian artisans, Cosi Tabellini’s Tea & Coffee range is offered in pewter and ceramic, and combines luxury objects of oldschool glamour with a relaxed modernity. The pewter pieces are tactile and mellow-looking yet reassuringly weighty, with a gently hued patina exuding a sense of luxury. Elsewhere, the brand’s selection of barware, tableware and interiors also uses pewter, combining it with crystal glass and ceramic to create contemporary twists on classic designs.

Developed in collaboration with bar and mixology professionals, the latest additions to John Jenkins’ Atlantic collection include a martini glass, goblet and tasting coupe featuring deep spiral optic designs. Blending 1920s glassware design with a contemporary aesthetic, the Atlantic family has grown to comprise 80 specialist glasses, jugs, carafes, mixers, bitters bottles and stirrers, providing bartenders with a selection of tools to create classic cocktails and bespoke martinis.

www.italian-pewter.co.uk

www.johnjenkins.co.uk

Table Jewellery

Playground

The Table Jewellery series from Goodfellows has been crafted with the aim of elevating imaginative petit fours, allowing chefs to be flexible in their presentation of dishes. The collection’s silver finish brings a sense of glamour to vibrant serves, while wooden boxes and ceramic bowls with lids can be added to create an exciting reveal. Aside from supplying leading hospitality brands, Goodfellows works with skilled craftsmen to create unique pieces for hotels and restaurants around the world.

The Playground series from Tafelstern comprises bowls in a selection of shades, shapes and patterns, including the Nara model; a piece of stoneware that provides an alternative to classic profiles using characteristic relief patterning.

Crafted from fine noble china, the coupe plates, pourers and bowls create fine contrasts with slender platters and can be combined with the brand’s Eatery series, as well as the new industrial-style Delight cups and black clay Stella plates.

Cosi Tabellini

G&G Goodfellows

www.goodf.co.uk

John Jenkins

Tafelstern

www.tafelstern.com

135

Canopy

LSA International Designed by LSA International in collaboration with the Eden Project, the Canopy range is handmade from 100% recycled glass and explores themes of hydration and propagation. The tumblers and carafes have been created to serve tap water as opposed to bottled – infused with lemon, cucumber or mint – while a series of vases can be used to showcase plant life including fresh or dried flowers, bulb planters, self-watering planters and terrariums. www.lsa-international.com

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136

PETITS FOURS

137

Vago

Bonna Joining a family of ten designs, the organic Vago series from Bonna eschews traditional round and square dining sets to embrace elements of casual dining. Created specifically for the horeca industry, the porcelain tableware range forms part of the brand’s wider ivory white collection, and is offered with various personalisation details. The free-form yet stackable plates will marry amicably with vibrant interior decors. www.bonna.com.tr

138

PETITS FOURS

WMF Espresso

Inspired by Iris

The WMF Espresso bridges the two worlds of coffee brewing – handcrafted and automatic. The machine steams like a conventional portafilter while also measuring all key brewing parameters, with fully automatic grinding and tamping ensuring greater consistency by controlling both the flow and temperature of the brew. Alerts can also notify the user if the grinding degree needs to be adjusted, while a touch display offers a wide range of software setting options.

Nude has celebrated its yearlong partnership with interior designer Iris Apfel by revealing the Inspired by Iris collections, set to be launched during Maison & Objet. The new lines include a reimagined version of Tomas Kral’s Beak series in acid bright colours and bold stripes, and the transformation of the Mono Box – originally designed by Ayse Birsel – with contrasting colours and elegant patterns added to the vase’s curved exterior.

www.wmf-coffeemachines.com

www.nudeglass.com

Grove Serving Tong

S20

Studio William

LaCimbali

The Grove Serving Tong collection from Studio William comprises 12 pieces made from high-quality stainless steel, which can be used for buffets, in-room dining or within executive lounges. Designed by William Welch and manufactured in the English town of Stratford-upon-Avon, the tongs join the brand’s wider range of cutlery, which includes the popular Mulberry, Karri and Olive collections, as well as the limited-edition Tilia series celebrating Studio William’s tenth anniversary.

The new S20 model enhances LaCimbali’s super-automatic range with a solution for outlets that produce around 200 cups of coffee each day. Using a preheated metal group head, the machine guarantees the consistent extraction of singleorigin and specialty coffee, while its seven-inch touchscreen display and integrated WiFi system allows baristas to set recipes and customise background images. A built-in soluble hot chocolate system also helps restaurants achieve a varied drinks menu.

WMF Group

www.studiowilliam.com

Nude

www.cimbali.com

139

Id à Part

Montgolfier Montgolfier’s Id à Part series brings a natural feel to tabletop arrangements with its rough textured glaze, beige granite shades and smooth satin white finish on the inside of the plates and lid. Handcrafted by the French crockery manufacturer’s in-house team, the plates come in four different sizes and have been designed with the intention of matching all types of fine-dining restaurants. www.montgolfier.fr

140

PETITS FOURS

1862 Premium

Idol Chafers

The new 1862 Premium coffee machine from Julius Meinl features a three-chambered Aroma Fez hopper, with each chamber holding 1kg of the blend. The system’s integrated microchip also allows it to communicate with the grinder – which can be fitted with an automatic tamper to guarantee that every portafilter is best prepared for coffee preparation – while the correct water pressure and temperature are automatically and continuously controlled too.

Walco’s Idol Chafers feature self-closing, vented glass lids that prevent food presentations from drying out, as well as magnetic steel clad bottoms that ensure thorough heating when used during banqueting services. Available in round and rectangular models, the chafing dishes come with a removable body that can be placed on an induction table for added versatility, and join Walco’s wider buffet range comprising dispensers, a sauce warmer and several urns.

www.meinlcoffee.com

www.walcostainless.com

Sesame Tealight Holders

Bradford Alan

Made from pressed 18/10 stainless steel with a mirror finish, the Sesame Tealight Holders from Robert Welch Designs feature a pattern originally developed for the brand’s signature utensils collection. Available in two sizes that can be used individually or as a group, the holders take their name from the distinctive sesame-seed-like design created through a series of elliptical piercings, and recall Robert Welch’s earlier Nordicinspired product lines with a warm glow and Scandinavian flavour.

Creating menu designs, packaging and decorative volumes for hospitality projects, All Book Covers’ service takes into consideration the existing identity of spaces and schemes to generate relevant and visually compelling ephemera in a variety of styles. Having previously collaborated with Jean-Georges Steakhouse, Art Basel and Continental, All Book Covers offers stylish options including blind deboss on urethane, three-colour embroidery and gloss UV silk screens.

www.robertwelch.com

www.abc-portfolio.com

Julius Meinl

Robert Welch Designs

Walco

All Book Covers

141

Steak Knife Skalpel

Handcrafted in Sheffield, Skalpel’s latest steak knife is manufactured from high-carbon, surgical-grade stainless steel to ensure it remains sharper for longer, with a rigorous production process resulting in a smooth-edged blade that does not drag or tear meat when slicing. The knife is also nimble at just over eight inches long and eight millimetres thick, and features distinctive grooves in the handle that improve its grip and control in the hand. www.theskalpel.com

142

PETITS FOURS

Pro Series Juicer

Floral

The Pro Series Juicer from Sunkist Growers features a small footprint at just 28cm tall and 20cm in diameter, but is engineered to extract ten gallons of juice per hour using a high torque direct-drive motor. Manufactured in the US, the juicer offers quick and easy cleaning with three lift-off dishwasher safe parts. The Sunkist Sectionizer Jr, which can be used for wedging, slicing, coring or halving fruits and vegetables into uniform pieces, has also been launched.

Combining organic shapes with the gloss and reflections of hammered and polished stainless steel, Zieher’s Floral range features two étagères as well as plateau plates in different heights that allow for a diversified presentation of appetisers, petit fours and desserts. The design of the stands is slightly arched and features a kidney-shaped miniature plate, while three levels of the buffet étagère combine seven small plates and can present up to 21 delicacies.

www.sunkistequipment.com

www.zieher.com

Swivel High Tea Stand

Power Olympic

Sunkist Growers

Tiger

Zieher

Stölzle Lausitz

Designed by Italian craftsman Giuliano Malimpensa and manufactured in South Korea, the Swivel High Tea Stand from Tiger is formed from highquality 18/10 stainless steel and can accommodate up to three dishes at a time. Joining the brand’s range of buffet presentation solutions, the tea stand was originally created for Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts, and is now used by other major hotel groups around the world when serving traditional high tea.

The latest addition to the Stölzle Lausitz’s Power series is a selection of matte-white and matte-black tumblers, which feature metallic tones of gold, silver and bronze on the inside of each glass to create contrasting accents. Made from 100% lead-free crystal, the new Power Olympic collection also features particularly broad and flat bowls, which even when filled with a small volume allow for maximum contact with the air and thereby enable aromas to develop.

www.tigerhotel.co.kr

www.stoelzle-lausitz.com

143

FIVE DAYS THAT PUSH YOUR BUSINESS FORWARD

BY YEARS. WINNING BUSINESS. INTERNORGA 2019.

EXPLORE NEW MARKETS. MEET KEY PLAYERS. GET INSPIRED. KITCHEN TECHNOLOGY • KITCHEN EQUIPMENT FURNITURE, INTERIOR AND DESIGN DIGITAL COMMUNICATION • FOOD AND BEVERAGES INNOVATIVE. INSPIRING. INTERNATIONAL. EUROPE’S LEADING TRADE SHOW FOR FOODSERVICE AND HOSPITALITY. HAMBURG, GERMANY | 15 TO 19 MARCH 2019

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ADVERTISING INDEX

AHEAD

123

Peter Spanton

099

Ambiente

124

Pordamsa

057

Bonna

031

Robert Welch

Bradford Alan

032

Rona

Champagne Gosset

148 & Insert 037

115

Steelite

Cognac Frapin

090

Stölzle

039

Cosi Tabellini UK

063

Studio William

061

Sunkist Growers

015

Elia

111

004 & 005

Forty One Madison

051

Tafelstern

002

Grupo Cimbali

041

Tiger

085

Indel B

129

To The Table - Europe 2019

116

Internorga 2019

144

To The Table - MEA 2019

130

John Jenkins

065

Vetrerie Riunite

025

Julius Meinl

010

Walco

018

LSA

006

WMF

013

Montgolfier

089

WMF Coffee Machines

147

No1 Botanicals

035

WNK

043

Nude

078

Woodstone

119

O’Shaughnessy

107

Zieher

017

Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque

009

145

THE WASHING UP

The 200 Club

Defining a hotel’s unique personality through design is a challenge in itself, but achieving the same feat on a solitary champagne bottle, well that’s nigh on impossible isn’t it? For Alexander Hall, the London-based contemporary artist tasked with helping InterContinental Hotels & Resorts celebrate the milestone of reaching 200 properties around the world, it would appear not.

The artist, who also works under the alias Haut de Gamme, has handpainted 200 bottles in his vibrant and energetic drip style, taking inspiration

InterContinental partners with artist Alexander Hall to celebrate reaching 200 properties worldwide.

along the way from every one of the brand’s hotels. Among those featured is the new InterContinental Shanghai Wonderland – a spectacular development located in a former quarry in south-west Shanghai, which features 16 floors below ground, including two underwater.

“When I first started painting champagne bottles I just wanted to make people feel something positive,” says Hall. “Champagne for me means happiness, joy, celebration and the idea of bringing people together.

That’s why I decided to paint on champagne bottles to celebrate the 200 InterContinental hotels. I wanted the bottles to reflect each hotel’s unique personality, design and location, as well as the legacy and pioneering spirit of the founder, Juan Trippe.”

The finished bottles are suspended together in such a way as to spell out the number ‘200’. This installation will be displayed at various InterContinental hotels over the coming months, while Hall will also produce a bespoke Haut de Gamme painting and limited-edition prints honouring the group’s sparkling achievement.

146

WMF Professional Coffee Machines.

“Made in Germany” since 1927.

Quality Time. Maximum enjoyment without waiting - the WMF 5000 S+ Thanks to a 10-inch touch display, the new WMF 5000 S+ offers all information at a glance – including nutritional information, promotional offers and usage videos. Designed for a recommended daily capacity of 250 cups, it offers top performance and reliability with a high-performance pump and a robust heavy-duty brewer. The revolutionary Dynamic Coffee Assist permanently guarantees the highest quality of all espresso-based coffee specialities.

Equipped with an integrated Milk Excellence Sensor, the WMF 5000 S+ boosts milk management to a new level of quality, while convenience and ease-of-use is further enhanced by an automatic height adjustable spout and a new Choc Mixer. The WMF CoffeeConnect digital solution allows you to fully leverage sustainable business models to increase the efficiency of your coffee enterprise. www.wmf-coffeemachines.com

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12.12.18 10:30