ISSUE 15
Olivier Elzer
The award-winning chef discusses the journey that has brought him to The St. Regis Hong Kong
Super Lyan
Ryan Chetiyawardana lifts the lid on the challenge of opening his first bar outside London
The Times Square Edition
Ian Schrager confounds expectation with a dazzling F&B programme in the Big Apple
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INSIDE SUPPER
Setting
SPECIALS
Entrée 013
Starters
Journey Beyond
• The Fleur Room
SIPPING The Port Report
092
042
In-Room Oenology
098
Cocktails
102
044
Drinks
104
Moxy Chelsea, New York City
• Heimat
Appetisers 018
25hours Hotel Hafencity, Hamburg
Trends and concepts impacting the world of
• Louix Louis
global hotel F&B
The St. Regis Toronto • Idlewild
046 048
InterContinental Singapore • Torno Subito W Dubai – The Palm
SERVICE
Main Courses • The Times Square Edition Sushi, Boutiques and Movies
026
• Super Lyan
stakeholders lift the lid on growing the Nobu
Kimpton de Witt, Amsterdam
brand from a single restaurant into a global
• The Legacy House
hospitality empire.
Rosewood Hong Kong • Vintry & Mercer 034
052
New York City
Chef Nobu Matsuhisa and his fellow
Hong Kong’s Star Chef
EVENTS
050
058
To The Table Europe
110
To The Table MEA
112
NRA Show
113
Tiger: The Future of All-Day Dining
114
062 068
SIDES
London
A passionate exponent of modern French fine
• Tramonto
dining, Olivier Elzer is rising to the challenge
Hotel Ottilia, Copenhagen
072 Hepp: Elemental Force
120
of his demanding role as Culinary Director of
Petits Fours
123
the new St. Regis Hong Kong.
Head of the Table
129
The Washing Up
138
SWEETS Pick Your Own Dinner
078
Cooking On Gas
082
Signatures
086
Cover: Coffee cremeux and caramelised pecan nuts with mascarpone ice cream at L’Envol
003
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ENTRée
Journey Beyond
W
hen we launched Supper back
two decades, is currently hosting voyages with
in 2016, we did so because of a
Aqua Expeditions along the Mekong. Meanwhile,
palpable change in the approach to
Como has joined forces with Singapore Airlines
hotel dining. Previously a necessary
to bring its culinary programme to the skies in a
service that was, in many cases, little more than
move that will not only extend the group’s reach,
an unappetising meal served in a somewhat drab
but raise the bar for in-flight dining.
dining room, the hotel restaurant has become a
Such
ventures
essentially
mean
that
place that both guests and locals actively seek
travellers can experience quality F&B and
out, in which creative cuisine and an inventive
design throughout their entire journey, not
cocktail list marry with the interior design scheme
only at their destination. This is also the idea
to produce a captivating experience.
behind Supper’s sister publication, Starboard,
In issue 1’s entrée, we talked about the
born out of the increasingly close relationship
remarkable journey of hotel F&B, and the way in
between hospitality and transportation, and
which owners, operators, designers, chefs and
the idea that travel experiences extend beyond
bartenders are increasingly collaborating, not
the realms of a traditional hotel. We’ve recently
only at the luxury end of the market, but across
published issue 2 of Starboard, which features
all segments, from hostels and budget hotels to
reviews of newly launched vessels, previews of
boutique and lifestyle properties.
forthcoming concepts, and notably, a number
More recently, that journey has taken on a more
of new F&B ventures. London Stanstead Airport
literal meaning, with many of those involved in
has collaborated with top scientists to make
hotel F&B broadening their remit to encompass
the Sky High Sandwich, specifically designed to
other forms of hospitality such as cruise ships,
taste good at high altitude; Oceania Cruises has
river boats, sleeper trains and aeroplanes. Thomas
introduced a plant-based menu; and Silversea
Keller – who heads up a restaurant at Four Seasons
has announced plans for an innovative culinary
Hotel at The Surf Club, Miami – partnered with
programme tailored according to the region
luxury cruise line Seabourn to bring his classic
sailed, incorporating immersive experiences both
American cuisine to the seas, serving updated
onboard and ashore. These ventures demonstrate
versions of iconic dishes at The Grill, designed
an increased focus on F&B across all aspects of
by Adam Tihany. Elsewhere, Daniel Boulud –
travel, making the journey as much a part of the
whose seasonal French fare can be sampled at
experience as the destination.
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park in London – has
To receive a copy of Starboard, you can register
recently signed with Celebrity Cruises in a new
online at www.starboardmagazine.com, or if you
culinary adventure, and David Thomson, having
would like to get involved in the next issue, please
worked with Como Hotels & Resorts for almost
don’t hesitate to get in touch.
Catherine Martin | Managing Editor
013
THE BRIGADE P O R T FO LI O @suppermag
Editorial
Design
Editor-in-Chief Matt Turner - m.turner@mondiale.co.uk
Design Manager David Bell - d.bell@mondiale.co.uk
Managing Editor Catherine Martin - c.martin@mondiale.co.uk
Production Zoe Willcox - z.willcox@mondiale.co.uk
Assistant Editor Richard Frost - r.frost@mondiale.co.uk Editorial Assistant Kristofer Thomas - k.thomas@mondiale.co.uk Ben Thomas - b.thomas@mondiale.co.uk Consulting Editor Heleri Rande - heleri@hrande.com
Advertising
Strawberry Studios, Watson Square Stockport, SK1 3AZ, UK Tel: +44 (0)161 476 8390 www.suppermagazine.co.uk
Finance Finance Director Amanda Giles - a.giles@mondiale.co.uk Group Financial Controller Sarah Healey - s.healey@mondiale.co.uk Group Credit Controller Lynette Levi - l.levi@mondiale.co.uk
Advertising Manager Rachel Chadwick - r.chadwick@mondiale.co.uk
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Corporate
Brand Director Amy Wright - a.wright@mondiale.co.uk
Chairman Damian Walsh - d.walsh@mondiale.co.uk
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Setting
Trends and developments in the global F&B sector
“Compiling the menus collaboratively is extremely important, it instils a sense of comradery and engagement.” Cédric Bourassin, Head Chef, Le Berceau des Sens, École Hôtelière de Lausanne
APPETISERS
Star Training An educational restaurant in Switzerland enters the history books by winning one of gastronomy’s highest accolades. The culinary world was well and truly turned on its
menu. Bourassin, who passionately believes in using as many
head recently when a Michelin star, that benchmark of
Swiss products as possible, is keen for the whole team to
gastronomic achievement, was awarded to an educational
contribute to the creative process. As he puts it: “Compiling
restaurant in Switzerland for the very first time. While most
the menus collaboratively is extremely important, it instils
top establishments rely on assembling a settled team of
a sense of comradery and engagement.” Current culinary
experienced industry professionals in order to reach such
highlights include snow crab tart with a jolt of yuzu and
dizzy heights, Le Berceau des Sens (literally ‘Cradle of the
celery; bestseller ‘umami’ duck foie gras in dashi broth; and
Senses’) at École Hôtelière de Lausanne adopts a totally
Vaudois pork, braised celery shoots and roasted vegetables
different approach, with the hospitality management school’s
on toast. Away from the kitchen, students working front-
students taking turns to complete two-week shifts in the
of-house are also given regular critiques by experts, helping
restaurant, albeit under the watchful eye of Head Chef Cédric
them develop and ensuring customer needs are always placed
Bourassin, who has been at the helm since 2017. The 50-
front and centre during every service.
seat venue, which had already obtained the highest rating by
While understandably proud to have won a Michelin star,
Gault & Millau for an educational restaurant, is open to the
Bourassin is determined that Le Berceau will keep improving,
public for lunch and dinner during weekdays, but its primary
and not stray from its key aim – training the managers of
purpose is to immerse students in both front-of-house and
tomorrow. The excitement on campus when the news first
back-of-house operations, paving the way for them to hit the
broke was palpable, he recalls, and he is acutely aware that
ground running in their subsequent careers.
the award could deliver longer-term benefits for graduates
“It was not an objective to get a Michelin star, we are
too, noting: “The students were incredibly happy and proud,
training future managers not future cooks,” explains
and they celebrated with us, with some even being clever
Bourassin, whose CV includes stints working with the
enough to note that now they can put work experience at a
likes of Anne-Sophie Pic and the Bras family, as well as an
Michelin-starred restaurant on their resumes.”
extensive period in Japan. “But it means that the system we
There is no doubt that Le Berceau’s recognition in the
implemented is working – the students are switching sections
Michelin Guide, whose inspectors paid tribute to the ‘great
every day and we are changing the team every week. It is all
finesse’ shown in every dish as well as the ‘impressive
about organisation and precision.”
service’, underlines how the hospitality management school’s
The dishes change every two weeks, matching the students’ schedule for service, and seasonality has a big impact on the
018
restaurant is going from strength to strength, which can only be good news for the industry as a whole.
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APPETISERS
Raising the Bar From pop-up bars to partnerships with renowned mixologists, top hotels are working hard to up their beverage game. The global F&B sector has witnessed a significant shake-up
As for programming, Bulgari Hotels & Resorts has
in recent times, moving from an industry of imitation to one
introduced the Symposia Mixology Event, a series of two-
characterised by innovation. When it comes to beverages, for
night shows bringing six top bartenders – as named by The
example, today’s hotels are tapping into the experience-led
World’s 50 Best Bars – to Bulgari venues in Beijing, Shanghai,
economy by introducing elevated drinks concepts.
Tokyo, Dubai, Bali and Milan. Created by Dario Schiavoni,
Naturally, the rise in the popularity of craft beer and spirits
Bar Director of Bulgari Hotel Beijing, the initiative sees guest
has led some hotels to prioritise the fact they have onsite
bartenders share six cocktail and mocktail recipes, each one
breweries and distilleries in their marketing. Cavalier Hotel
inspired by a particular Bulgari hotel. Shanghai held the first
in Virginia Beach includes a bourbon, rye and vodka distillery,
event in March, kicking off with Nick Wu and Hidetsugu Ueno
while BrewDog recently announced plans to open a second
from Tokyo’s Bar High Five and Bangkok’s Locker Room,
DogHouse property at Ellon in Aberdeenshire – complete
while José Luis Léon Martinez of Mexico City’s Licorería
with in-room beer taps – after launching the concept in
Limantour presented the Beijing edition in May, and Kris Du
Ohio last year. Likewise, The Swan in Suffolk offers guests
from Shanghai’s Speak Low hosted the Milan programme in
the chance to sample beers and spirits at Adnams’ very own
June. Later this year, Bulgari Resort Bali will welcome Jad
production facility, while gin-themed boutique The Distillery
Ballout, owner of Beirut’s Central Station Bar, while in Dubai,
on London’s coveted Portobello Road hosts regular tasting
the guest bartender will be Luca Cinalli from London’s Oriole
experiences in its basement unit – billed as The Ginstitute.
Bar. The last instalment will take place in Tokyo in October,
Others have partnered with alcohol brands – Raffles Hotels
020
with Cyprus’ Dinos Constantinides taking the creative reins.
recently collaborated with Sipsmith to create a signature gin –
Elsewhere, InterContinental Bali Resort has teamed up with
while temporary pop-ups have also come to the fore as a way
mixologist Grétar Matthiasson – named 2018 International
of testing the market. This includes Marriott International,
Bartenders Association Short Drink World Champion – to
which launched Canvas, an F&B incubator project in 2014,
create the exclusive Sunset Cocktails Collection, reinvigorating
established to make better use of under-utilised space in its
the drinks offer at its Sunset Beach Bar & Grill.
European hotels; the rooftop at Marriott Park Lane in London
From onsite breweries and distilleries to pop-ups and
was transformed into a rustic summer garden by former
collaborations, the world’s top hotels are clearly responding
Restaurant & Bar Manager Ashley Dawes, while hot on its
to the growing customer demand for brilliant beverages,
heels came MI+ME, an urban cheese-and-charcuterie bar
delivering forward-looking programmes that really tickle
within St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel.
the taste buds of consumers.
APPETISERS
Riding the Wave Hotels can no longer afford to ignore the growing impact of the Third Wave Coffee movement on guest expectations.
022
Wherever you look these days, there are signs that forward-
UK-based coffee-roasting business Iron & Fire in 2014 after
thinking hotels are finally waking up to the power of good
a decade working in one of the world’s Third Wave hotspots,
coffee. Recently, Yotel partnered with Workshop Coffee in a
Melbourne. “For example, hotel restaurants put so much
move that will see the pair develop a bespoke single-origin
effort into creating a meal, only to let customers down with
coffee for the global hotel group, while no fewer than four Ace
the last experience they provide, the coffee, which is often
Hotels across the US now have Stumptown Coffee Roasters
made using cheap beans and equipment.”
cafés on-site. Meanwhile, at the launch of Super Lyan, the
To tease out the individual flavours of different beans, Iron
ambitious new bar at Kimpton de Witt in Amsterdam, Ryan
& Fire prepares coffee at its own roastery, but it also has a
Chetiyawardana emphasised that his house blend was not
coffee-machine showroom and a barista training centre that
simply an afterthought, but instead a carefully considered
educates those responsible for serving customers. “With
mix of Brazilian and Nicaraguan beans, supplied by local
a little bit of work, you can get your staff making a good
roaster Lot Sixty One.
cup of coffee even if they’re not skilled baristas,” explains
All of this can be seen as emblematic of the Third Wave
Burrows. “From a hotel’s perspective, people will pay for a
Coffee movement, which positions coffee as an artisanal
quality coffee, and most of that is pure profit. Quite apart from
foodstuff across all stages of production and consumption
the fact that properties will enjoy higher levels of customer
(like say wine), rather than a mere commodity. Its supporters
satisfaction by serving a high-quality product, they’ll also
argue that changing different parts of the coffee-making
make more money.”
process can have a radical impact on the end result with, for
Of course, hotels looking to tap into the money-spinning
example, harvesting the beans later potentially producing a
potential of Third Wave Coffee must first develop a distinctive
fruitier brew, or extracting them via a French press delivering
offering that reflects what guests will be drinking in future.
a more full-bodied texture than an AeroPress.
“I think consumers will increasingly get into acidic coffees
Hotels, of course, typically provide coffee at various times
and nuanced flavours in the coming years, similar to how the
throughout the day – breakfast, drinks breaks, afternoon
wine market has evolved,” predicts Burrows. “Also, people
tea and post-meal – and yet far too many properties still
will start to look more for unusual coffees with strawberry
rely on offering the same off-the-shelf blends as in years
undertones, lemony acidity and so on.” This makes perfect
gone by, seemingly unaware of how consumer tastes have
sense when you think about it; after all, nobody expects every
evolved in the meantime. “Hotels are really missing out on
glass of wine to taste the same, so why should a cup of coffee
the possibilities of coffee,” says Kevin Burrows, who founded
be any different?
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SERVICE
Profiling leading figures with a fresh take on hotel F&B
“My philosophy is that I like to see customers eating with a smile and laughing. So I get to know what people like, and what makes them smile.� Nobu Matsuhisa
SERVICE
Sushi, Boutiques and Movies Chef Nobu Matsuhisa and his fellow stakeholders lift the lid on growing the Nobu brand from a single restaurant into a global hospitality empire. Words: Chrissy Iley
I
’ve been rushing people off the phone all week with the line “got to go – Robert De Niro’s waiting.” And he is. I’ve flown to Las Vegas to meet the Oscar-winning actor, celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa and entrepreneur Meir Teper. They
are the founders of Nobu Restaurants, which now has dozens of sites around the world, and the rapidly growing Nobu Hotel chain. Nobu Hotel at Caesars Palace was the first, and I’m here for its fifth birthday. The Nobu story began about 30 years ago when De Niro discovered a small but cool eatery in LA called Matsuhisa, whose Chef-Patron was one Nobu Matsuhisa. It was the Japanese sushi chef’s first restaurant in Tinseltown, having previously honed his craft in Alaska and South America. De Niro became a regular and decided he’d like a similar restaurant in New York, so he brought in his friend Meir Teper, a fashion impresario and film producer, to help make the dream a reality. “We were friends first,” says Teper, recalling the origins of his relationship with the Hollywood star. “I worked with him on movies a couple of times, but I met Bob through another producer. We became friends and
”Japanese cuisine is very strong these days in New York, and maybe one of the reasons is Nobu. I think we really started something.” Robert de Niro
started travelling together. If he was going out on the road for
salad myself, I joke – soft and creamy on the inside, crispy
promo or location scouting, he liked me to join him.”
on the outside. “Ok,” he says without a fight. “I guess I’d be
Teper is elegant and smells impeccably laundered. You see their commonality: they like analysing details from food and bed linen to places and cultures. They can go on forever about these things, and they can also be quiet with one another.
side that you don’t discover straight away? “Yeah.” Of course, it’s hard to overstate the impact of Nobu’s clever fusion of Japanese and Peruvian gastronomy on the culinary
De Niro, Teper and Matsuhisa call themselves the
world. “Japanese cuisine is very strong these days in New
stakeholders – it’s almost a movie title. That says it all.
York, and maybe one of the reasons is Nobu,” ponders De
They’re not controllers or CEOs. Stakeholders is where it’s
Niro. “I think we really started something. If somebody’s been
at. They’ve put in the money, the time, the skill. Teper
in the door once and it’s no good, they don’t come back, but
remembers: “Bob brought me to Matsuhisa, saying: ‘I’ve
with Nobu, they come back.”
found a nice Japanese restaurant, we should have dinner
De Niro discovered Matsuhisa, so to speak. From
there.’” Accepting the invitation, Teper found himself in a
restaurants, they graduated to hotels. It wasn’t a plan, it
small establishment where the chef not only cooked for his
just sort of happened. “I thought we owed it to ourselves,”
customers, but chatted to them too, and the trio soon built
explains De Niro. “Let’s do our own thing. It felt good to open
up a good rapport. But it would be a few more years before
a hotel – a Nobu hotel with a Nobu restaurant in it. It all
Matsuhisa finally agreed to team up with them professionally;
happened simultaneously. Meir started seriously thinking of
the first Nobu restaurant opened in New York in 1994.
doing the Nobu hotel here in Caesars Palace. He came in on
“After New York, we were so successful, people started
the Tribeca Grill [another of De Niro’s restaurants in New
saying, ‘can we have Nobu London? Can we have Nobu Vegas?’
York] – when I needed partners for Nobu, he was the only
but Nobu’s a chef and Robert’s an actor,” Teper continues. “I
one that I had.”
was the only businessperson in the group, I understood how
Today, Nobu Hotels has grown to encompass sites around
to negotiate, how to make the deal.” Gradually, his interests
the world, including Malibu, Miami Beach, Los Cabos in
in film and fashion disappeared: “I’m so busy with Nobu and
Mexico, Shoreditch in London, Marbella, Ibiza Bay and Manila
I put so much time into it, everything else has gone away.”
in the Philippines, with further properties planned in the likes
At the party later on, De Niro, Matsuhisa, Teper and Trevor
of Chicago, Atlanta, São Paolo, Warsaw, Riyadh and Tel Aviv.
Horwell, CEO of Nobu Hospitality, sit together in the rooftop
Last year, the brand reported it was on track to have 20 hotels
penthouse suite. Chefs dressed in white are making sushi.
by 2020.
Servers are topping up champagne and lychee martinis.
All of which begs the question, how does De Niro balance
Teper and De Niro watch everything as if it’s on a screen, as
the demands of Nobu’s rapid expansion with his acting
if they’re in a movie of their own.
career? How does he compartmentalise? “I’m not doing
The party is filled with casino high-rollers, those who have
what they do,” he answers. “I’m here when they need me.
won and lost millions, and deserve a bit of caviar on their
We always ask each other for their input, and I’m front and
sushi. There is no VIP area, no silver cord, yet the stakeholders
centre when needed.”
keep to themselves. De Niro looks content, approachable, but no-one does approach him.
028
a big fish. The cod.” The black cod with the sweet miso on the
De Niro doesn’t do the deals like Meir does, he’s the metaphor for the brand. In the olden days, he threw himself
We go to a different suite for our interview and he is
into roles very intensely, and there was not much space for
extremely courteous, accommodating even. Where would I
anything else. “These days, we have meetings on set if it’s
like him to sit? Opposite or beside? Sofa or chair? If he was a
not a tough day,” he reveals. “Sometimes I’m waiting around
Nobu dish, I ask, what would he be? “I might be the artichoke
a lot, so we sit in my camper. You need to get your mind off
salad,” he replies. I was rather hoping to be the artichoke
things, it’s a welcome distraction.”
SERVICE
Miso black cod at Nobu Hotel Ibiza Bay Photography: © Steven Freeman
Nobu Hotel Marbella in southern Spain
Photography: © Charly Simon
029
SERVICE
Yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno at Nobu Hotel Ibiza Bay Photography: © Henry Hargreaves
”I was the only businessperson in the group, I understoood how to negotiate, how to make the deal.” Meir Teper
charmingly concerned for my jetlag, whereas the chef thinks I’ve just had one too many cocktails. When I ask Matsuhisa to tell me how he invented his signature dish of miso black cod, he shrugs. “It’s a very old Japanese style, but I made it in a different way,” he says. “In the beginning, I was looking for a nice but cheap product. I
030
Incidentally, De Niro has worked out I have trouble saying
found frozen black cod at 25 cents a pound, though I couldn’t
Nobu’s last name. I’m not really sure how he spotted this, but
serve it as sashimi because it’s frozen. And I blended the
I find it endearing. We all like to be known. He tries to teach it
traditional miso sauce with a sugar marinade because I like
to me over and over again as if I’m a baby learning to speak.
sweet sauces.”
When he’s satisfied, I tell him the first time I went to
In every Nobu restaurant, waiters are imbued with an
Matsuhisa, Kelly Osbourne took me. She said it was a family
uncanny ability to assess diners, and suggest exactly what
restaurant that she’d grown up in. I can’t remember what
they might want to order. “My philosophy is that I like to
I ate; he responds, “I had the cod and that told me right
see customers eating with a smile and laughing,” Matsuhisa
away, this guy is really special.” Is he good at making instant
explains. “So I get to know what people like, and what makes
assessments of people? He nods. “I like him,” he adds. “He’s
them smile. Hotels are the same concept, but the operation is
low-key and I knew that there is no way this restaurant
much bigger. People come because they want to eat good food
wouldn’t work in New York.”
and enjoy good service, have a good bed and feel comfortable.”
Speaking of which, Matsuhisa is waiting for me, and De
Horwell, the British CEO, is last to join us; a vibrant
Niro asks if he can stay while we talk about the fusion cuisine
personality, he previously worked for the likes of Hard Rock
that has helped make him a household name. The film star’s
International, Como Group and Hyatt Hotels Corporation.
SERVICE
Robert de Niro joined forces with Nobu Matsuhisa in 1994
Nobu Hotel Los Cabos in Mexico Photography: © Jeffrey Mosier Photography
“When we thought about going into hotels eight years
Nobu Ryokan Malibu may well be the most beautiful hotel
ago, we were apprehensive because we already had a great
on the planet; with only sixteen rooms, it’s the place for the
business, which was running incredible numbers,” he says,
celebrity staycation. “The Nobu restaurant in that hotel is still
recalling the discussions they had about branching out into
doing the same numbers, in fact better, than 20 years ago,”
accommodation. “Some of the restaurants would do 200,000
remarks Horwell. “That’s longevity. To me, that’s timeless.”
covers a year, and each cheque was about US$120. If you have these numbers, you think, why go into hotels?
But aren’t they worried about diluting the brand? “We don’t like to be predictable,” he says. “We have different designers, the one in Shoreditch has won major design awards. The menus have some things that are the same, but each chef
”I don’t ever want to cook without heart, without passion. It’s about making people happy.” Nobu Matsuhisa
has created local specialities.” Now Matsuhisa rejoins the conversation, and it soon becomes apparent that he doesn’t really get me, and certainly doesn’t get my jokes. De Niro is curious to watch this play out. The tension builds further as Matsuhisa gets more and more frustrated that I can’t follow his recipe for miso black cod. “Why does everyone like their mother’s food?” he asks. “Because the mother cooks for the kids with heart. I’m a chef
032
“It was really because we didn’t want to put a restaurant
now, but I don’t ever want to cook without heart, without
in every city of the world, which commoditises the brand. If
passion. It’s about making people happy.” Was his mother a
you go into a secondary city, you might not get the volume,
good cook? “Oh yes. She would always be asking what I’d want
you might be spending too much on the ones that aren’t
to eat tonight, tomorrow. Always with heart.”
doing well. We didn’t want to go into secondary cities, so we
I wonder if this is his big secret. Was Matsuhisa inspired
thought about doing hotels. We also had a lot of customers,
to create a successful hospitality empire because he had a
three million going through the doors of Nobu, so why not
mother who cooked from the heart? I ask De Niro if his mother
get them to stay? For instance, there was a Nobu restaurant
was a cook. “Not great.” He sees where this is going, more
in Malibu before there was a hotel.”
possible conflict with Nobu. “Get some sleep.”
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Hong Kong’s Star Chef A passionate exponent of modern French fine dining, Olivier Elzer is rising to the challenge of his demanding role as Culinary Director of the new St. Regis Hong Kong.
Words: Neena Dhillon
T
all, purposeful and commanding, Olivier Elzer
quality clearly struck a chord. While working at the
strides around the understated sophistication
family restaurant in the south of France, he stepped
of his dining room with an air of efficiency
in when the resident sous-chef took ill, and “fell in
and discipline. He is checking that everything
love instantly”, as he puts it. “The job only called for
is as it should be during this lunchtime service at
a low level of skill but I had my first taste of pressure,
L’Envol, occasionally pulling aside members of his
execution and pace. I knew then that you couldn’t learn
team to ensure nothing falls short of his own exacting
good cooking by studying alone; it happens on the
standards, while choreographing the delivery of plates
battlefield, working 18, 19 hours if necessary, absorbing
and presiding over adjustments.
lessons from other chefs like a sponge. It was a totally
This, I am to learn, is Elzer’s German side, a part of
painful but pleasurable process of learning.”
his personality that means he thrives on the precision
While Elzer did attend a hotel industry-recognised
required of fine dining here in Hong Kong, as well as
school in Cannes, it was his good fortune to also visit
the hierarchical nature of Michelin establishments the
some of France’s foremost epicurean establishments
world over. Yet as he stops and talks to guests savouring
during his formative years, his growing passion for
his dishes, his warm charm and deep knowledge of food
food recognised and supported by a close family
prove irresistibly engaging, leaving hard-to-impress
friend, giving him the opportunity to sample Michelin-
Hong Kong folk hanging off his every word. Suddenly
starred cuisine first hand. After gaining his diploma, a
he is French through and through, from inside out, the
succession of jobs ensued in Michelin kitchens across
heart and soul of the kitchen. Not a split but a dual
France, including the illustrious La Pyramide in Vienne,
personality, a chef who leaves fusion to others, but
until his appointment as Head Chef of Abbaye de la
who thrives on contrasts, on complementing forces,
Bussière in Burgundy before his 30th birthday. A first
the very idea of two worlds coming together.
Michelin star soon followed, and he was named among
Born in Germany but raised in France, Elzer credits his mother with introducing him to the simplest yet
France’s Best Young Chefs by gastronomic guide Gault & Millau shortly after.
finest ingredients his home country had to offer,
Meeting him now at the newly opened St. Regis Hong
where the ideas of seasonality, nature, variety and
Kong – where he is both Culinary Director and Head
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Photography: © Moses Ng
Red prawn ‘carabineros’ at L’Envol
Chef of its graceful contemporary French restaurant L’Envol
direct to the demanding clientele of Hong Kong, all while
– seems fitting. He is celebrating not just a 40th birthday, but
refining a creative, emotive experience that totally knocks the
also a decade working in Hong Kong. Here again is that theme
stuffiness out of what you might traditionally expect to find
of duality. Perhaps Elzer could have sailed through more
in a fine-dining restaurant. For him, it is about comfort over
prestigious hotel kitchens on familiar turf back in France. But
conformity, intimacy over austerity, mood over manners, and
where would be the challenge in that? Instead it was an offer
quality above all else.
from culinary legend Pierre Gagnaire, who Elzer first met in Paris, which lured the chef out to Hong Kong.
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Over the past ten years, the chef has seen up close how the tastes of Hong Kong’s gourmands have changed. “They have
“I’m ashamed to say it now, but my vision of Asia back
matured quickly to understand the specialities and nuances of
then was old Jackie Chan movies,” he admits sheepishly.
French cuisine, with interest in oysters from Brittany, wines
“As soon as I arrived, I knew this city was made for me – I
from the Rhône valley and strong cheeses from Bordeaux,” he
couldn’t believe the energy, the dynamic pace, the incredible
notes. “They have a strong memory for food, so you need to
buildings. As a foreigner to Hong Kong, you need two to three
keep moving, updating menus, responding with techniques,
years to understand the market and the palate. Then there’s
flavours and presentation. Seasonality is key – I have three
the efficiency. When you have a city with maybe 60,000
deliveries from France and Belgium arriving every week,
restaurants, you can lose a customer instantly if your flavour,
with other ingredients coming from Australia, Japan and the
technique or menu is not right. The competition is intense so
Philippines. We can source from anywhere in the world but we
you have to hit just the right spot to make it work out here.
have to pay 30% to 40% extra for shipping and duties, and at
You need momentum to capture people.”
the same time our customers want to pay less.”
Listening to the chef talk about his time in what is arguably
It’s a tricky conundrum, exacerbated by factors such as
Asia’s hottest dining scene reveals how it has instilled in him
exorbitantly high real-estate costs. One of Elver’s solutions
a keen commercial sense, as well as a greater understanding
has been to vary the offering at L’Envol, with guests able to
of ingredient sourcing on a global scale, and the need to adapt
enjoy a speedy three-course gastronomic affair for HK$588
to different customer expectations. Culminating in his latest
(£59) at lunchtime, contrasting with more of an emphasis on
role, Elzer has made a name for himself by taking his long-
the signature seven-course tasting menu and à la carte dishes
held passion for reinventing and redefining French cuisine
to linger over in the evening.
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L’Envol at The St. Regis Hong Kong Photography: © Michael Weber Photography
Elzer’s career in Hong Kong began at Mandarin Oriental’s
introduced my dishes to them and then they asked me to sit
Pierre, where he maintained two Michelin stars during his
down for a private talk,” he remembers, laughing. “Turned
tenure, followed by a three-year run as Executive Chef at
out it was the management of The St. Regis Hong Kong, and
the triple-Michelin-starred L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. Of
they were looking for a Michelin chef to take the helm of their
course, the eponymous chef behind L’Atelier passed away
new F&B operations.” Promised the opportunity to come in
last year, and Elzer is keen to pay tribute to his charismatic
and run things the way he saw fit, and perhaps buoyed by
mentor. “Mr Robuchon was a man of a thousand layers who
the backing and prospect of security offered by owner China
taught me so much about respecting ingredients, and showed
Resources, Elzer accepted the challenge. “Hong Kong had
such kindness,” he recalls. “He had restaurants around the
been waiting for an ambitious luxury hotel opening of this
world, so had to work hard to protect his privacy. I will always
level,” he says. “Coming in early, I knew straight away that
remember the big kiss I had from him after being invited to
I wanted to change back-of-house while altering the kitchen
his tasting menu in Singapore. He was incredibly generous. If
layout in L’Envol, adding a section for pastry, creating a
there was any chef I could work with again, I would wish for
cheese cellar and introducing more capacity for wine.”
the impossible, and select my mentor.”
The chef admits to rubbing up architects the wrong way
Experience gleaned from these two kitchens opened up an
in the past (“the ones with big egos can be very sensitive”),
opportunity for Elzer to strike out on his own with a French
but here he established a good rapport with André Fu, the
restaurant called Seasons in trendy Causeway Bay, a venture
Hong Kong-based designer whose curated mansion concept
that initially gave him a sense of freedom and expression he’d
permeates the hotel, reflecting both the brand’s stately
not encountered before. Although the establishment earned
residential legacy and Hong Kong’s distinctive architectural
a Michelin star in its first year of trading, the chef soon felt
silhouettes and rich culture. As a setting for the haute cuisine
constrained when he differed with his partner on wanting to
of L’Envol, Fu has been stylistically guided by Coco Chanel’s
elevate the business proposition from casual to fine dining.
spirit, seeking to create a contemporary yet timeless union of
Fortuitously, and for a second time in his life, the sickness of
wood, stone, quartz and brushed bronze, the feminine tonal
a sous-chef meant he was in the right place at the right time.
scheme understated in white, beige and gold. Table linens
Working in Seasons on his day off, Elzer noticed a table of
are handmade with motifs that mimic champagne bubbles,
po-faced businessmen who he suspected were inspectors. “I
while dinnerware has been selected from Bernardaud. Elzer
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Coffee cremeux and caramelised pecan nuts with mascarpone ice cream at L’Envol
also reveals that he liked the idea of an open kitchen, but
There are Asian twists along the way too – a hint of wasabi
understood that some clients would want privacy, so asked
here, an injection of sea urchin there. And as expected,
Fu to artfully divide the space in two.
desserts are pretty as a picture, feminine, indulgent, airy
Without doubt, Elzer clearly has a keen eye for design.
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and delicate.
“When it comes to colours, lighting, accessories, I think
Having brought a trusted team with him – about 60% of
you need to work with the real look of a restaurant, not 3D
L’Envol’s team have worked for Elzer before – everything
pictures,” he argues. “When I saw the texture of our crystal
seems to be in place for this ambitious chef to embark upon yet
quartz chandeliers, I liked the idea of the contrast between the
another Michelin-star run. Moreover, he seems comfortable
fine finish at the top and the raw edges.” The menu mirrors
with the responsibilities of his second role as the hotel’s
this aesthetic with thick papyrus sheets – which can be
Culinary Director, confiding that he recently pulled up the
updated in-house to reflect seasonal updates – encased in a
mixologists over at The St. Regis Bar after a guest reported
finer stock and silk finish wrapping. In its entirety, it serves as
having to wait too long for his cocktail to appear; Elzer
an attractive memento of a guest’s visit, one to keep, an idea
smoothed things over by entertaining said guest with a glass
that harks back to his days of visiting Michelin restaurants
of champagne and instantly putting things right. I ask why
and getting chefs to sign their menus.
he isn’t Executive Chef – “too much paperwork” is his canny
There’s that romantic French side again, the one that
response. Anyway, in Executive Sous-Chef Vincent Leroux,
wants to evoke emotions and memories, not least through
he has a trusted comrade with whom he talks daily, while
stunning signature dishes that hold firm to the soul of French
stylish Cantonese restaurant Rùn is already in the safe hands
gastronomy, yet sing with verve, invention and originality.
of culinary master Hung Chi-Kwong.
Dedicated fans won’t be disappointed – his signature five-
For now though, there are hands to shake and guests to
spices grilled tuna makes an appearance, while other superb
send off with kind words and a smile as L’Envol finishes its
starters elevate humble ingredients such as cauliflower, white
lunch service. Then, once the kitchen has been made spotless
asparagus and red prawn to dazzling heights. High-quality
and everything returned to its allocated place, he can swap his
produce abounds, spanning everything from Brittany blue
natty uniform for an equally natty Adidas top, and set off for
lobster, John Dory and abalone – an obsession of Chinese
a break on the streets of Hong Kong, before service resumes
diners – to pork shoulder, pigeon and milk-fed veal fillet.
all over again later this evening.
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Specials
Exploring the concepts behind new hotel F&B venues
“Far too often, design is shoehorned in during the later stages of a project, so you don’t get an opportunity for it to become one with the concept.” Ryan Chetiyawardana aka Mr Lyan
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Photography: © Michael Kleinberg
The Fleur Room Moxy Chelsea, New York City
Crowning the newly built Moxy Chelsea in Manhattan’s blossoming Flower
Meanwhile, a distinctively shaped disco ball, salvaged from Los Angeles’
District – and named Best Bar at AHEAD Americas 2019 – the Rockwell
infamous Vertigo nightclub, hangs above guests to add a sense of decadent
Group-designed Fleur Room is accessed from street level via a mysterious
glamour, and at the touch of a button the space’s wraparound glass walls
vestibule staircase, before enveloping guests in a vibrant scheme inspired
can be retracted to transform it into an open-air veranda.
by the botanicals of the streets below.
Developed in collaboration with Tao Group and Angelo Bianchi, Principal
Taking the form of an intimate rooftop bar on the 35th floor with both
of AB Hospitality Consulting, the bar serves a menu of gourmet bites and
indoor and outdoor elements, the elevation and positioning of the space
bespoke cocktails curated by Executive Chef Jason Hall, with highlights
offer sweeping views over the city. Characterised by its floral theme and
including black truffle popcorn, king crab salad, and signature drink
large botanical prints, The Fleur Room further incorporates a textured
Fleur of the Valley, combining Grey Goose, prosecco, fresh strawberries
palette of materials, including rough concrete and polished bronze, for a
and basil. The Fleur Room is joined within the hotel by an Italian fusion
subtly industrial undertone. And a sleek copper-clad bar is offset by the
restaurant, café and bar trio conceptualised by Tao Group with Francesco
rounded silhouettes of water drop chandeliers, whilst subdued indirect
Panella of Antica Pesa – rounding out an F&B programme that has the city
lighting creates an intimate atmosphere and emphasises the view.
flocking to experience it.
Florals are further referenced across fabrics, colourful arrangements on tables and inverted resin pyramids that glow with embedded petals.
www.moxy-hotels.marriott.com
IN A BITE Owner: Tao Group, Lightstone Group • Operator: Tao Group • Developer: Lightstone Group • Interior Design: Rockwell Group • Architect: Stonehill Taylor • F&B Consultant: Next Step Design • Procurement: Purchasing Associates • Lighting Design: Focus Lighting • Art Consultant: Rare Culture • Head Chef: Jason Hall • Beverage Director: Nikki McCutcheon • Director of Operations: Michael Marinoff • Menu and Graphic Design: QNY • Uniform Design: Kimmie Kakes
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Photography: © Stephan Lemke
Heimat 25hours Hotel Hafencity, Hamburg
The restaurant was closed on Supper’s last visit to 25hours Hafencity,
of wine-growing regions, alongside classics spanning a vast geographical
though finding somewhere to hang out only required a two-minute walk to
range from the North Sea to the Alps. Dishes, and the viticultural regions
sister hotel Altes Hafenamt, where Boilerman Bar and Neni were packed. A
which shape them, change quarterly in line with the seasons.
year later, both venues are as popular as ever, but no more so than Heimat.
At the heart of the offering is a centrepiece sharing platter, or ‘herzstück’,
Hamburg is the hometown of 25hours (the original hotel, now
around which side dishes are served in brimming copper tureens. A joint of
appropriately known as ‘Number One’, is on the other side of town) and,
Husum-bred beef comes with bean ragout and potato gratin, and a whole
judging by Heimat’s success, the company clearly knows what locals want.
turbot arrives with riesling sauce alongside pea and lettuce salad.
Here, the brand has collaborated with host Dominik Kirchhoff, sommelier
Heimat translates roughly as ‘homeland’ in English but for German-
Lars Mahlmann and chef Kolin Krüger-Heyden to create a concept offering
speaking nations it is one of those words, like the Danish ‘hygge’, with
the best regional cuisine from Germany, Austria and Switzerland.
deeper meaning, encompassing notions such as childhood memory,
Above the bar, glasses of soil from local vineyards add an olfactory
nostalgia and belonging. Or as Krüger-Heyden puts it: “Heimat means
element to the oenological activity below. Designer Conni Kotte has
dining in a relaxed atmosphere. Heimat means sharing and lots of different
reinvented the space with dark earthy tones, cabernet-hued curtains,
pots on the table. And of course, great wines as well.”
inky-black tables and velvet seats to provide a cosy, wine-cellar ambience. Meanwhile, the menu is structured around dishes from any two of a variety
www.heimatrestaurant.com
IN A BITE Covers: 85 • Private Dining Rooms: 1 • Owner: 25hours Hotel Company • Interior Design: Conni Kotte • Head Chef: Kolin Krüger-Heyden • F&B Manager: Lars Mählmann • Sommelier: Dominik Kirchhoff • Dinnerware: Serax, Steelite • Cutlery: Solex • Glassware: Chef & Sommelier, La Rochère • Buffetware: Emile Henry • Table Linen: Libeco • Menu Design: Nørd design • Uniform Design: Saat / Merz beim Schwanen
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The soul of stylish vintage combined with old-world charm.
www.tigerhotel.co.kr
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Photography: © Brandon Barré
Louix Louis The St. Regis Toronto
Inspired by Toronto’s whisky-producing heritage, Louix Louis spans
and golds reminiscent of whisky swirling in a tumbler, while three glass
3,720ft2 on the 31st floor of St. Regis’ first Canadian property. The
chandeliers cast soft light over a space filled with leather armchairs, curved
restaurant’s interiors by DesignAgency, which is also behind the ground-
elongated sofas, scalloped banquettes and comfy bar stools. Meanwhile,
floor lobby and Astor Lounge, make full use of warm amber tones, giving
a raised mezzanine hosts a 24-seat private dining room, showcasing a
guests the impression of dining in a cut-crystal glass filled with whisky.
darker palette of burgundy leathers, charcoal velvets, marbles and stained-
The epicurean experience begins with visitors entering an impressive
oak finishes.
gilded mosaic lobby. Here, a host station combines burled walnut and
Louix Louis’ culinary concept, overseen by Head Chef Guillaume Robin
burgundy leather with bronze detailing, while champagne-coloured tiles
and Chef de Cuisine Mahesh Bhambure, allies contemporary American
are ignited by golden light from a geometric chandelier overhead.
cooking with classical French technique; typical dishes include whole
Upon moving into the main restaurant, the eye is drawn to a 30ft bar
truffle chicken, Dover sole meuniére and pastrami short rib. Guests can
of book-matched cognac marble with a lacquered-oak countertop, which
also choose from an extensive cocktail menu or more than 500 dark spirits,
sits below sculpted-bronze and antique-smoked mirrored shelving rising
selecting from one of the largest collections in North America.
18ft. Another hero feature is the immense handpainted ceiling mural by local artist Madison Van Rijn, an abstract combination of metallics, browns
www.louixlouis.com
IN A BITE Covers: 130 • Owner: InnVest Hotels • Operator: Marriott International • Architecture: Zeidler • Interior Design: DesignAgency • F&B Consultant: Chris Hart Consulting, Icon Legacy • Procurement: Sue Dulmage & Associates • Head Chef: Guillaume Robin • Chef de Cuisine: Mahesh Bhambure • F&B General Manager: Dominik Ociesa • Head Sommelier: Myles Harrison • Dinnerware: Dudson, Playground • Cutlery: Fortessa • Glassware: Schott Zwiesel • Table Linen: My Drap, Casa Rovea • Menu, Graphic and Uniform Design: Icon Legacy
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BY APPOINTMENT TO HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES SUPPLIER OF CRYSTAL GLASS JOHN JENKINS & SONS LTD T/A WILLIAM YEOWARD CRYSTAL HAMPSHIRE ENGLAND
JOHN JENKINS established 1901
the perfect cocktail… the perfect glass
NYEWOOD, ROGATE, PETERSFIELD, HAMPSHIRE GU31 5HZ Tel: 01730 821811 Email: office@johnjenkins.co.uk NEW YORK SHOWROOM, 41 MADISON AVENUE, 13TH FLOOR, NEW YORK, NY 10010 Tel: 1-800-818-8484
www.johnjenkins.co.uk
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Photography: © E.K. Yap
Idlewild InterContinental Singapore
Named after JFK Airport’s original moniker, Idlewild harks back to
A sweeping split-level bar guides visitors through the space, decorated
the golden age of air travel, with Hassell Studio setting out to create a
with smoky mirrors, hand-glazed tiles and plush counter stools. The
journey “full of discovery and delight”. The bar is located at one of central
main salon and performance area is lined with booth seating, wrapped in
Singapore’s most prominent sites, the InterContinental at Bugis Junction,
embossed velvets within mirrored niches, and accented with rich mother-
yet is discreetly tucked away – a speakeasy in the very heart of the city.
of-pearl tabletops and patterned panelling framed in pink stained timber.
The design is hooked around an imaginary couple, as Paul Semple of
The focus is on the stage, where live music is performed nightly; behind
Hassell explains: “Albert moved from the US to Hong Kong in 1925 in
the embossed velvet curtain backdrop is a secret VIP entrance, ensuring
search of adventure. An engineer by training, he found himself working
performers can enjoy a smooth arrival and departure.
as a producer in the film industry with Run Run Shaw and later Cathay in
The drinks offer, overseen by New Zealander Andy Griffiths, also takes
Singapore. May, a Cantonese beauty and actor, met Albert in 1930, moving
its inspiration from the jet-set era. Idlewild Airport was where the first
to Singapore in 1935. Idlewild was a gift from him to her.”
transatlantic flight took to the air, and the cocktail menu takes this as
Guests arrive through a dusky pink velvet reveal to find themselves in an intimate parlour with rich blue walls, adorned with photographs and
its jumping-off point, with drinks classified under airport codes – and libations based on travel hubs such as Lima, Havana, London and Paris.
travel memorabilia. And a ‘Cabinet of Curiosities’ houses a rare and exotic selection of liqueurs and spirits, curated by Proof & Company.
www.idlewild.sg
IN A BITE Covers: 89 – 105 • Owner: BCH Hotel Investments • Operator: InterContinental Singapore • Interior Design: Hassell Studio • Drinks Consultant: Proof & Company • Lighting Design: DJCoalition • Executive Chef: Eric Neo • Head of Operations and Creative: Andy Griffiths • Glassware and Barware: Proof & Company • Buffetware: Zieher • Menu and Graphic Design: Manic Design
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Thanks La Réserve Paris © Safran Paris
Ta b l e w a r e , B u f f e t Te a - t i m e , S u i t e
L E T ’ S
C R E A T E
T O G E T H E R
W W W. S A F R A N P A R I S . C O M
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Photography: © Alex Jeffries
Torno Subito W Dubai – The Palm
Massimo Bottura’s first restaurant outside Italy, Torno Subito at W Dubai
The Italian restaurant’s kitchen, led by Bottura’s protégé Bernardo
– The Palm is a deeply personal project, which takes guests on a journey
Paladini, is open for lunch and dinner daily, and serves a selection of their
through the triple-Michelin-starred chef’s childhood, and celebrates the
favourite recipes on colourful tableware, spanning everything from beef
stylish coastal playground of Rimini in the 1960s. Translating as ‘I’ll be
tartare and tagliatelle al ragù to grilled octopus and robiola cheese and
back soon’, a nod to the signs Italian shopkeepers hang on the door during
truffle pizza. Afterwards, guests can treat themselves to an ice cream from
their afternoon break, Torno Subito is all about having fun, with Bottura’s
the roving gelato cart, or enjoy a signature cocktail from the bar.
bold vision brought to life by local interior design firm Bishop Design.
Torno Subito is one of six F&B venues at W Dubai – The Palm, the 350-
Both the main restaurant and adjoining beachside terrace present a
key luxury hotel that opened its doors earlier this year. The property’s
veritable riot of colour; the walls, ceilings and furniture are filled with
other options are Akira Back, a Japanese-Korean fusion restaurant that
striking green, blue and pink shades as well as softer pastel hues, all neatly
represents the eponymous chef’s first foray into the Middle East; SoBe,
offset by floors showcasing 3D agitated sand and black-and-white-striped
an adult’s-only rooftop bar inspired by the spirit of Miami; LIV, an
patterns. Bottura’s love of the seaside is writ large in details such as the
international all-day dining venue; WET Deck, offering a fresh menu of
custom-made beach ball-style lights illuminating the dolce counter and
poolside bites and beverages; and W Lounge, a lobby space where visitors
the life-sized images of sunbathers on the walls, while guests can take
can order small plates, hot drinks and cocktails.
their very own Polaroid in a photobooth at the entrance, which will then go on display within a suspended ceiling feature.
www.tornosubitodubai.com
IN A BITE Operator: Marriott International • Interior Design: Bishop Design • Signature Chef: Massimo Bottura • Chef de Cuisine: Bernardo Paladini • Tableware: Zieher • Buffetware: Zieher • Furniture: Paola Lenti
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The Times Square Edition New York City
Words: Kristofer Thomas • Photography: © Nikolas Koenig (unless stated)
T
here is a sentiment among a subsection of New York natives that Times Square isn’t actually in New York – not anymore anyway. Like Vatican City isn’t technically in Rome, and Monaco borders France but keeps its procedural distance,
the gleaming billboards and monolith flagships of Times Square are enjoyed by the intersection’s tourist class, and closer to tolerated or humoured by locals. It wasn’t always like this though; the area’s place in New York lore as a proving ground for stars and criminals alike through the 20th century remains, but with its modern-day positioning as heart of the city for everyone but locals came creeping sterility, and a loss of any discernible character untethered from heavyweight commerce. In business terms, there is a tried and tested formula for hospitality success in today’s Times Square, and if you have the money to build it then they will most likely come. So why take risks? Ian Schrager – hotelier, developer and New York veteran – knows a thing or two about risks. He took one back in 1977 when crafting
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© Liz Clayman
the decadent Studio 54 a few blocks away, and revolutionised nightlife
beige drapes closed, guests are cocooned within a residential-style space
stripped back the traditional hotel model under the Morgans Hotel
and immediate respite from the neon chaos beyond the window. All-
Group banner to find something more intimate and stylish, introducing
white accent furnishings, custom bleached leather armchairs and ivory
the world to the boutique sector.
hand-tufted silk area rugs make for a suitably elegant scene for elevated
Whilst his latest venture in the Marriott International-partnered
bar fare including shiitake, sweet potato and hoisin glaze skewers
Edition Hotels sees the risks less pronounced – toned down in favour of
and homemade croissants, generating something closer to a living
a lifestyle offer in line with more comfortable times – in returning to his
room than a bar at the western world’s busiest intersection. A darker
old stomping ground with The Times Square Edition in tow, Schrager
counterpoint adjacent sets a circular brass table amongst a pack of black
demonstrates by way of its three distinct F&B spaces that he still has
leather armchairs and matching wood panels, lampshades and carpet
a few tricks up his sleeves for guests, and surprises for New Yorkers –
– the gold hue of the table echoed by the orange and gold of a fireplace
just passing through or otherwise. Reunited following their work on the
and flanking candles.
brand’s stately London outpost, Schrager, Edition and designers Yabu
This refined styling carries through to 701West, the hotel’s signature
Pushelberg have sought to counteract the chains and nondescript cast of
fine-dining option, with pops of colour brought into the fold by way
venues below with notes of drama, history and the natural world.
of chartreuse and electric blue velvet banquettes – the space’s white
“The F&B spaces go hand-in-hand with the hotel’s overall direction,” says Glenn Pushelberg, the eponymous studio’s co-founder. “When we thought about how we wanted to approach the project, we asked
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The surprises begin as early as the Lobby Bar, where, with delicate
culture in the process. Then another came in the eighties when he
marble mosaic floors and amber mahogany wood panels hinting at the old-world glamour of its wine list. Meanwhile, a cocktail programme curated by Bar Director Salvatore
ourselves what would be an unexpected move for Times Square. We
Tafuri features avant-garde mixtures and presentations, including
were inspired by Ian’s first venture in hospitality, the Morgans Hotel
Bali Ha’i – a rum punch made with mango noodles – alongside an Old
with Andree Putman, but added a modern, Yabu Pushelberg twist. The
Fashioned with shiitake-infused bourbon and a truffled peach garnish.
outcome is a complete counterpoint to the area.”
“We wanted to repackage the liveliness Times Square has to offer in a
MAIN COURSE
© Liz Clayman
subtle, pared-back way,” says Pushelberg. “The F&B environments do
their Times Square location if they so desire – the bustle and traffic
just that, we take the kinetic energy from below to act as a parallel to the
only visible if you stand to look over the terrace’s walls, and the glow of
way wining, dining and entertainment can be done. The hotel challenges
billboards faded from this vantage point.
what the area can be, and to us, that is invigorating.” George Yabu, the studio’s other co-founder, agrees completely: “Each
Where designers often draw inspiration from their surroundings, it is almost as if the space is designed as an antithesis to the Times Square
F&B space is an extension of the hotel’s vision. We used public spaces to
experience, a natural remedy for the acceleration and perpetual motion
explore how Times Square can be experienced in a new, contemporary
of the scene below. A menu of natural ingredients – think tuna crudo
way. To counteract the surroundings, we incorporated lush greenery,
with pickled kohlrabi and Fresno chillies, and an entire section dedicated
serene outdoor terraces, and created a genuine respite to a location that
to lettuces – sees the loose theme translated into the culinary realm.
has historically embodied everything The Times Square Edition is not.
“Of all the things Times Square is known for, nature is not one of
Each of the venues tells this story through their different offerings and
them,” Pushelberg laughs. “We used greenery as a mechanism to
sense of place.”
contrast the hotel from the neighbourhood by creating a botanical
Stepping out at the 9th floor, guests are ushered into the programme’s next serving – a leafy oasis with the line between outdoor terrace and
boundary between the two environments.” “Botanicals allowed us to transport guests into a calm, tranquil
indoor restaurant blurred by a canopy of plant life flowing throughout.
environment, away from the lights and intersections below,” Yabu adds.
Inspired by the French brasseries and American chophouses Executive
“Greenery also brought other aspects of the design to life, such as light
Chef John Fraser once worked at – Fraser oversees the hotel’s entire
oak wood finishes and charcoal and cream walls.”
F&B programme for a coherent progression of culinary drama and
Tying an elaborate red bow atop the hotel’s F&B offer is Paradise,
experimentation – Yabu Pushelberg’s ensemble cast of potted trees,
the most dramatic of The Times Square Edition’s venues, marrying the
hanging ferns and climbing ivy not only give the space its breezy,
decadence of Schrager’s Studio 54 with the visual styling of burlesque
refreshing ambience, but smartly divide it into sections, echo the wall of
and cabaret. Chaotic, high energy and risqué, the concept is a hybrid
greenery behind the reception desk, and transport guests far away from
performance-gastronomy experience, which sees productions by
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Brooklyn collective House of Yes unfold alongside complementary
flavour, sights, and sounds in one place through the progression of an
menus of imaginative dishes linked with the show’s narrative.
evening,” Yabu explains. “This is our fifth collaboration with Ian and the
Provocative and uncompromising in its vision, the deep red palette
fourth Edition hotel we’ve designed,” Pushelberg adds. “We understand
spreads across flared banquettes, a roof of programmable LEDs, a
Ian and the brand’s story, and knew the fusion of food, performance,
boudoir-like glow behind the bar, and the scene of a Renaissance-styled
and style was bound to merge within the Times Square Edition.”
mural depicting hedonism the likes of which has not been seen in Times Square for a long while. Supper was in the Paradise audience for The Devouring; a 360-degree
Whilst risk-taking and breaking the mould sits somewhere towards the bottom of most operators’ Times Square check lists – F&B industry or otherwise – the efforts of Schrager and Yabu Pushelberg to
performance that saw ariel acrobatics, ballet and breakdancing paired
differentiate the property within several blocks of others playing it safe
with a menu of ‘Drowning Octopus’, caviar and red eggs, and ‘Asparagus
are rooted in both a close reading of the current landscape – and how
in Bondage’, the latter requiring diners to crack into a not-so-allegorical
best to counter it – as well as Schrager’s intimate knowledge of the city
runny egg with not-so-metaphorical vegetable spears. Programming
and its guests.
throughout the hotel is being overseen by Schrager, with the venue set to introduce a variety of shows and paired menus once word spreads. “When designing the Paradise Club, we put ourselves in the shoes of the guest, thinking about how they would experience the stimulation of
Times Square might never again have the edge, infamy or place in the hearts of New Yorkers it once did, but for those seeking a vision of the neighbourhood beyond tourist traps and fast-food flagships, Times Square Edition is a welcome anomaly.
IN A BITE Owner: Maefield Development; Mark Siffin • Operator: Marriott International • Interior Design: Yabu Pushelberg, ISC Design Studio • Architecture: PBDW Architects • Project Manager: Ian Schrager • Head Chef: John Fraser • Head Bartender: Salvatore Tafuri • Head Sommelier: Amy Racine • Lighting Design: Isometrix • Glassware: Schott Zwiesel
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Super Lyan Kimpton de Witt Amsterdam
Words: Richard Frost
N
obody could accuse Ryan Chetiyawardana, better known as Mr Lyan, of playing it safe. After seeing Dandelyan at Sea Containers London (formerly Mondrian London) top the World’s 50 Best Bars list in 2018 – a year after being named
World’s Best Cocktail Bar at Tales of the Cocktail in 2017 – he promptly closed it down to make way for a new concept, Lyaness, which opened earlier this year. At the exact same time, he decided to relocate another cocktail den, Super Lyan, from a small basement in Hoxton to a far larger space in the centre of Amsterdam, despite having never run a bar outside London before. For Chetiyawardana, the lure of the Dutch capital was impossible to resist after he “totally fell in love with Amsterdam” upon visiting the Netherlands, with the 35-year-old fascinated by the city’s UNESCOlisted canal district and beautiful Golden Age mansions as well as its residents’ famously progressive values. As luck would have it, the 274-room Kimpton de Witt – an imaginative fusion of three Golden Age buildings and two 20th-century counterparts that forms part of Lore Group’s expanding portfolio – was keen to ramp up its F&B offering, and the master mixologist was invited to replace its existing House Bar with something befitting its historic setting. Not for the first time, Chetiyawardana turned to Jacu Strauss, Creative Director at Lore Group and founder of its in-house design practice Lore Studio, to help realise his vision. The bartender and designer originally teamed up on Dandelyan, back when Strauss worked at Tom
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Photography: © Dishtales
Dixon’s Design Research Studio, and also collaborated on its successor,
from the radical overhaul required to deliver an “all-day mini-
as our rapport, is what enables us to fully integrate how we work,” says
Super Lyan experience” in the courtyard, which was previously just
Chetiyawardana, explaining why he jumped at the chance to join forces
a thoroughfare between the hotel’s lobby and its American-inspired
with Strauss again. “Far too often, design is shoehorned in during the
restaurant, Wyers, to the transformation of the lounge. “The living
later stages of a project, so you don’t get an opportunity for it to become
room was the space I was most nervous about because it’s isolated from
one with the concept.” This is certainly not an accusation you could level
everything else, but it’s turned out to be really special,” he reflects.
at Super Lyan, where, as Strauss points out, “the bar’s offering is really
“I’m proud of how we’ve managed to turn a dead space into something
ingrained in the interior design, and vice versa”.
people want to experience.”
Super Lyan’s concept revolves around the idea of playful nostalgia,
Of course, stylish interiors can only take a bar so far – the quality of
with an all-day neighbourhood cocktail bar celebrating the optimism
the drinks offering is the key to ensuring customers return again and
of the 1950s. The venue actually comprises three distinct parts: an
again. To ensure service never dips below his own impeccable standards,
atmospheric main bar with a retro American-diner vibe and bold neon
Chetiyawardana is putting his faith in trusted lieutenant Alex Lawrence,
lighting, a cosy lounge area reminiscent of a private living room from
former Head Bartender of Dandelyan and now Head of Bars for the Mr
the mid-20th century, and a casual indoor courtyard where the newly
Lyan group, alongside Bar Manager Thomas Datema (co-founder of
installed skylight introduces a palpable sense of space. The first two
local cocktail bar Rosalia’s Menagerie) and Head Bartender Dan Garnell,
only open in the evenings, and utilise hero pieces such as a spectacular
another Dandelyan alumnus.
curving bar counter (“it’s almost like a spaceship from The Jetsons”,
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Strauss freely admits that the project was not without its challenges,
Lyaness. “The constant communication between me and Jacu, as well
They will oversee a constantly changing drinks menu that caters to
jokes Strauss) and an authentic vintage minibar, accompanied by
drop-ins as much as connoisseurs. “Super Lyan’s a democratic bar – we
brightly coloured banquettes and stools; by contrast, the latter operates
want to make cocktails that appeal to everybody across all times of day,”
right through from 7am till midnight daily, and employs a classic
explains Chetiyawardana. To this end, customers can order a selection
blue-and-white colour palette to evoke a calm, welcoming atmosphere
of breakfast cocktails like the Lyan Mary (Ketel One Botanical vodka,
whatever the hour.
miso, tomato, passata and lemon), alcohol-free creations, and signature
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serve Panacea (Johnnie Walker Black Label, lavender and honey shrub,
Billed as the playful sibling in the Mr Lyan group, Super Lyan’s fun
lemon and sage dust), which comes on draught. They could also sip tea
approach will undoubtedly shake up Amsterdam’s traditional cocktail
and coffee in the courtyard, or splash out on vegan shakes such as the
scene, and feels a world away from the high-concept ethos of Lyaness
aromatic Halo Hi Ball Float (Karma Cola and orange blossom coconut
(where guests choose from a list of ingredients instead of a drinks
‘cream’), which can be turned into a hardshake by adding Bacardí
menu) and Cub (which champions sustainable eating). Later this
Quatro and Angostura bitters for a €2 supplement. “Shakes help us
year, Chetiyawardana also plans to open another bar, Silver Lyan, in
reflect the garden feel and fit into the fifties theme,” he adds. “Most
Washington D.C., although the details of this particular venture are still
shakes tend to be heavy, but we’ve done a lot of R&D to develop rich
being kept firmly under wraps.
flavours without using dairy.” Chetiyawardana’s training as a chef (lest we forget, he also heads
For now though, Chetiyawardana can bask in the positive reception for Super Lyan, a venue that amply demonstrates the London-
up London’s Cub restaurant) is evident, meanwhile, in the unusually
based bartender has what it takes to succeed outside of his home
adventurous bar snacks menu. Among its highlights are the Amsterdam-
city. Far from playing it safe, the brains behind the World’s Best Bar
inspired trio of fresh stroopwafel (waffles with a sweet caramel syrup
is clearly seizing his time in the spotlight, and his proven flair for
filling), beef bitterballen (fried balls of beef ragout) with beer mustard,
mixology looks set to win over a whole new legion of fans, both in the
and fries with deep-fried mayo, while the more-ish vegan donuts
Netherlands and beyond.
(raspberry with miso caramel, almond butter with banana, or dark chocolate with speculaas) are perfect for those with a sweet tooth.
www.superlyan.com
IN A BITE Covers: 65 (main bar and lounge), 45 (indoor courtyard) • Investor: Lore Group • Interior Design: Lore Studio • F&B Consultant: Mr Lyan • F&B Director: Jos van Hunen • Interim Head Chef: Bas Verheul • Bar Manager: Thomas Datema • Head Bartender: Dan Garnell • Head Waiter: Laurens Keg • Dinnerware: Tovari, Villeroy & Boch • Cutlery: APS • Glassware: Tovari, APS • Barware: APS, Cocktail Kingdom • Buffetware: Tovari • Menu and Graphic Design: Magpie Studio • Uniform Design: Pakkend
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The Legacy House Rosewood Hong Kong
Words: Heleri Rande
O
n the site of the former Holt’s Wharf on the shores of Victoria Harbour stands new ultra-luxury property Rosewood Hong Kong. Rosewood Hotels & Resorts certainly has high hopes for the development, describing the opening
as ‘a defining milestone for the group, solidifying its stature as one of the world’s most dynamic hotel brands’. No expense has been spared on the Tony Chi-designed hotel, which boasts 413 keys, 33,880ft2 of meetings and events space, artworks
by Damien Hirst and Henry Moore, room amenities by Zieher, and a plethora of F&B outlets. Currently, visitors can enjoy the local and international menu at all-day dining restaurant Holt’s Café, try the artfully created delicacies in the Butterfly Patisserie and Butterfly Room, experience ancient flavours in the adjacent Tea Conservatory, indulge in a nightcap at the DarkSide bar, and take in the views of Victoria Harbour in The Legacy House, the property’s signature restaurant. To honour Dr Cheng Yu-Tung, grandfather of Rosewood Hotel Group CEO Sonia Cheng, The Legacy House focuses on the cuisine of Shunde in Guangdong Province, regarded by many as the basis of Cantonese gastronomy. “With The Legacy House, we wanted to do something different,” explains Sandro Gamba, Director of Culinary Operation at Rosewood Hong Kong. “Most five-star hotels in Hong Kong have fine-
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Photography: © Callaghan Walsh
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Photography: © Edmon Leong
dining Cantonese restaurants, a lot of them awarded Michelin stars. That
Cheng family’s private collection, special commissions include romantic
is not our goal. The main dining room part is very casual and accessible,
portrait murals from Melbourne street artist Rone.
while the seven private dining rooms offer excellent customised service and a truly tailored experience.” The kitchen at The Legacy House is overseen by Chinese Executive
that are both modern and classic at the same time,” says Romain Gissot,
Chef Li Chi Wai, whose passion for Cantonese cuisine was previously
F&B Director at Rosewood Hong Kong. “Their work with our brand in
showcased in the hotel spaces at MGM Macau and MGM Cotai. “I was
Beijing, Phuket and Phnom Penh is a testament to their skill.”
inspired by my mother when I was a boy – observing and learning
Shunde cuisine is not perhaps a particularly well-known part of
from her, as she cooked for us every day, was the start of my journey,”
Chinese culinary heritage, but having almost disappeared about 20
recounts Wai. “Under the tutelage of a few chefs who originated from
years ago, its dishes and techniques are now being brought back to life.
Shunde, I mastered my cooking skills after working in various traditional
“Shunde is the region of China not far from Hong Kong, on the side of
Cantonese restaurants in Hong Kong, prior to then honing my skills in
Macau; people there loved to use fish that came from the river but ended
some of the best Cantonese restaurants in Macau for over ten years.”
up in the ocean, a place where the fish had both lives and was therefore
The eye-catching interiors of The Legacy House have been designed
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Interestingly, the relationship between Bar Studio and Rosewood is not a new one. “They really know how to design Chinese restaurants
much more flavourful,” explains Gamba. Some of the traditional Shunde
by Melbourne’s Bar Studio. In the main restaurant, rustic and refined
dishes on the menu include pan-fried fish head with ginger and spring
materials such as dark wood, tiles, metal and glass have been used to
onion, minced fish soup, fungus and tangerine peel and stir-fried fish
evoke a sense of warmth and nostalgia, while the seven private dining
noodles with bean sprout, mushroom and dried sole, but speciality
rooms are meant to feel like rooms in a house, a clever way of blurring
dishes such as suckling pig and Peking duck also appear, and are crafted
the transition between hotel spaces. In addition to sculptures from the
to perfection. “Our CEO is very particular about the dishes and is always
export@tafelstern.com · www.tafelstern.com
TAF-19-017-AnzSupper-236x275_3mm_RZ.indd 1
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challenging the team,” reveals Gamba. “She is not a chef, but I am
the seven private dining rooms boast their own unique interiors, each
convinced that she knows more about food than I do.”
modelled after a different landmark moment in Dr Cheng Yu-Tung’s
On the drinks side, the wines are carefully overseen by Nicolas Deneux, Area Wine Director for Asia at Rosewood Hotel Group; the
life. “On the door, there is a logo and date marking a moment in the evolution of the company that the grandfather built,” adds Gissot.
elegant cocktails are crafted by Arkadiusz Rybak, Director of Bars at
This focus on getting every element right also extends to sourcing
Rosewood Hong Kong; and everything related to tea is sourced from
the finest produce around. “The beauty of working in Hong Kong is the
Hong Kong’s renowned purveyor Tak Cheung. “We collaborate with
amount of fresh products available,” explains Gamba. “It is not difficult
a local tea house, a place that knows the market and can assist us in
to reproduce a dish from anywhere as shipments come in so frequently.”
creating truly memorable experiences,” notes Gissot. “This is a unique offering in a hotel in Hong Kong.” From The Legacy House’s interiors to its menu, the level of detail on
Following The Legacy House’s launch, Rosewood Hong Kong can now turn its attention to opening further hotel restaurants and bars onsite, helping it compete in the city’s impressive gastronomic scene. And with
display here is spectacular. Most of the dinnerware has been custom-
such a dedicated team at the helm, there is every reason to suspect that
made by Gaya Ceramic in Bali, whilst sculptural lighting by New York
this landmark property will become just as well-known for its food and
studio Apparatus and glass pendants by Melbourne-based designer
drink as for its wonderful location in the years to come.
Mark Douglass add craftmanship. “Artisanal touches and creating a sense of place are very important to us,” says Gamba. Moreover, each of
www.rosewoodhotels.com
IN A BITE Covers: 132 • Private Dining Rooms: 7 • Owner: Rosewood Hotels & Resorts • Interior Design: Bar Studio • Head Chef: Li Chi Wai • F&B Director: Romain Gissot • Area Wine Director for Asia: Nicolas Deneux • Director of Bars: Arkadiusz Rybak • Operations Manager: Roy Chang • Dinnerware: Gaya Ceramic • Serveware: Sambonet • Cutlery: Robbe & Berking Silber • Glassware: Schott Zwiesel, Riedel • Catering Equipment: M Style • Table Decoration: Assouline, Blooms & Blossoms • Menu Design: Bing Design Company • Uniform Design: Jourden
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Vintry & Mercer London
Words: Ben Thomas • Photography: © Amy Murrell
L
ocated on Garlick Hill, between the architectural triumphs of Sir
printed wallcoverings featuring hand-drawn graphic sketches merge the
Christopher Wren and Mansion House tube station, Vintry & Mercer
old city with the new.
is firmly rooted in the rich historic influences of London’s past, taking inspiration from the merchant guilds that once traded fine
wines and silks in the warren of narrow streets that line the Thames. The 92-room property is the second hotel from owner Anton Fedun,
Bean-Pearce continues. “We developed the design, creating 92 rooms and three F&B spaces that utilise the surrounding views. However, the
who opened The Ampersand in South Kensington in 2012. The hotelier
challenging shape of the site led to the creation of a cobbled vestibule
once again turned to London-based multidisciplinary studio Dexter
from the street into the main lobby, positioning the reception to the
Moren Associates (DMA) to devise the interior scheme, which brings
right of the entrance.”
together age-old references and contemporary touches across an all-day
Beyond a dramatic light sculpture in the lobby, 60-cover restaurant
restaurant, rooftop brasserie and bar, decadent underground speakeasy
Vintry Kitchen is inspired by the Far East trading routes used for
and three private dining spaces.
transporting goods over the centuries. The space is decorated with
“The client wanted to create a bolthole away from the city,
geometric-tiled flooring, marble-topped tables and luxurious leather
transporting guests into another space and time entirely,” says Lindsey
banquette seating, while plantation shutters and delicate wire-framed
Bean-Pearce, Partner at DMA. “The interiors are eclectic and combine
mirrors ensure natural illumination from the rooflight above, and a
the contemporary character of the city with its inspirational history,
partially-open prep kitchen, bar seating and overhead storage maximise
marrying the old-world charm of vintage-inspired furniture and joinery
the space. The menu incorporates the flavours of Asia, from the salty
with clean, modern detailing.”
tang of miso and the fiery kick of kimchi to the freshness of yuzu
To chronicle the heritage of the Vintry and Mercer guilds – Vintry was
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“When we first got involved in the project, the hotel plans incorporated 74 guestrooms focused around a small internal courtyard,”
and gentle heat of wasabi, while ingredients that once arrived on the
the centre for London wine merchants, while Mercer were noble textile
shores of the Thames like wine, honey, saffron, garlic and cinnamon
sellers who specialised in fine silks and damasks – the designers used
– honoured in nearby street names – feature throughout. Tapas-style
specialist joinery finishes including metal meshes on doors, leather-
dishes include an octopus okonomi-yaki izakaya plate with siracha
wrapped niches and stud detailing. Bespoke fabrics and curated artwork
mayonnaise, a pork meatball tonkatsu steamed bun, and a tempura
decorate the guestrooms, hallways and dining spaces, while digitally
shrimp with iceberg lettuce and smoked chilli relish. Naturally, wine
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is central to the approach, with a gantry of barrels at the foot of the
pork cutlets and Norfolk white free-range chicken glazed with honey
restaurant – referencing the sailors and merchants of the Vintry guild –
and lavender. Those with a sweeter tooth can choose from classic British
serving a selection of tipples straight from the tap.
puddings including steamed treacle sponge and custard and Cambridge
Up on the seventh level, Mercer Roof Terrace captures London’s skyline in one sweep, taking in the dome of St Paul’s Cathedral and the glass tip of The Shard. Based on a countryside orangery, the brasserie
vanilla ice cream and stout. Occupying the basement, meanwhile, underground speakeasy Do
is brought to life through a palette of weathered timbers, muted sage
Not Disturb takes cues from the clandestine venues of 1920s New York.
green and grey upholstery, while rich details are introduced in the form
Having discovered the client’s love of speakeasy bars, Bean-Pearce says
of brass detailing, with honeycomb-patterned tiles on the walls and
the vision was to transform the basement level into an opulent cocktail
Versailles parquet timber flooring. Plants are also dotted throughout to
bar. Upon entering through a gated and copper-leafed atrium off the
cement the English garden-feel, while a large potted olive tree becomes
adjacent Minerva Place, guests are greeted by hand-beaded images of
a focal point on the terrace alongside clear glazed balustrades, which
Ziegfeld Follies girls that line the walls, lounge banquettes and plush
allow for the planting of small trees and hedges to create natural privacy
velvet chairs with deep buttons and fringing. Ceilings feature decorative
and shelter. Dark green metro tiles, woven wicker patterned wallpaper
mouldings and trims painted in dark claret, while loose lay vintage
and enamel bucket sinks continue the theme in the bathrooms.
Persian rugs complement a marble bar and brass, fan-detailed frontage
The kitchen is overseen by Executive Chef Chris Golding, who
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burnt cream, as well as playful additions like chocolate mousse with
designed to tarnish over time. Two cosy booths decked with azure blue
launched Apero at sister hotel The Ampersand before a stint at The
subway tiles, hemmed ottomans and full-length velvet curtains can also
Norman in Tel Aviv. Golding has based the menu on modern British
be sectioned off to create a more intimate setting.
cooking, showcasing sustainably sourced meat and fish from the British
Heralding the street’s merchant history, speciality barrel-aged and
Isles, as well as inventive cocktails made from house-infused spirits and
house cocktails curated by Head Bartender Cosmin Tigroso come in the
displayed in colourful carafes on the bar. Starters include British oysters,
form of The Sulpture, which mixes Bloomsbury peated barley vodka,
spiced beetroot cured trout and hay-smoked beef tartare, while mains
Belsazar dry vermouth and Xeco fino sherry; and Lift Yourself, fusing
showcase the kitchen’s charcoal oven with grilled tomahawk steaks,
Ocho Blanco tequila, asparagus, coconut water and vinegar. A menu
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of small plates, tacos and sliders inspired by The Big Apple includes
pay homage to merchant tailors, and oversized headboards featuring
signature dishes such as monkfish taco with smoked chilli mayo and
bespoke damask and velvet upholstery house room controls, reading
pickled red cabbage, and a beef patty burrata garnished with beetroot
lights and USB plugs. Elsewhere, carriage-style mirrors evoke the golden
mayonnaise and pancetta.
age of train travel, and dressing areas are a play on a deconstructed
Complementing the offer, three meeting and events spaces – The
travel trunk with scraped timber veneer and brass mesh panels.
Music Room, The Library and The Drawing Room – are named after the
While Vintry & Mercer is inspired by historic traditions, the property
entertaining venues found in traditional Georgian houses. In honour of
also has one eye on the future, running on renewable electricity sourced
its roots, The Library features patchwork Persian rugs and trading maps
from wind, solar and biomass generators to ensure the environmental
that decorate the ceiling, while antique mirrors reflect natural daylight
impact is kept to a bare minimum.
from an integrated clerestory. Designed as private dining rooms, the
For Bean-Pearce, the hotel is a true bolthole. “As with any new
spaces range in capacity from 10-35 covers, with The Library and The
project, the hardest thing is to balance the impact of design and the
Drawing Room interconnected to cater for up to 55 guests.
ability for that design to remain timeless,” she concludes. “That’s
Guestrooms range from intimate doubles to suites with glass-
why it is so important to immerse the motif in the neighbourhood
panelled balconies overlooking the South Bank skyline. The materiality
story, and thereby create a hotel unique to its location, which guests
and palette of each room type reflect the colours of items exchanged
can understand and engage with. In this instance, we believe we have
by the guilds, from claret to honey, while their design focuses on the
created something truly special.”
composition and scale of traditional patterns and furniture forms. Palm wallcoverings nod to ancient shipping routes, while herringbone carpets
www.vintryandmercer.com
IN A BITE Covers: 36 (Mercer Roof Terrace), 60 (Vintry Kitchen), 60 (Do Not Disturb), 10 (The Music Room), 25 (The Drawing Room), 35 (The Library) • Owner: Anton Fedun • Architecture and Interior Design: Dexter Moren Associates (DMA) • Executive Chef: Chris Golding • F&B Manager: Thomas Decan • Head Bartender: Cosmin Tigroso • Art Consultant: Hotel Artefacts • Procurement: Blue Moon Procurement
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Fried scallop, cream of celeriac, fried artichoke, bottarga and salmon roe
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Tramonto Hotel Ottilia, Copenhagen
Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: Courtesy of Tramonto
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ocated in the iconic old Carlsberg brewery, Brøchner Hotels’ new 155-room property, Hotel Ottilia, sits in a small area of Vesterbro west of Copenhagen’s central station that has undergone tremendous change over the last few years. Once
regarded as the seedy part of town, the place is now buzzing with characterful cafés and designer shops, while the brewery itself is being turned into an exciting new neighbourhood with its very own postcode. It is easy to see why this ongoing redevelopment, which reflects Denmark’s cultural heritage whilst simultaneously looking to the future, was an instant draw for Søren Brøchner-Mortensen, Brøchner Hotels’ owner and Director of Business Development. Tramonto occupies the upper floor of the hotel, and boasts 360-degree views over the city. The venue, whose name means sunset in Italian, aims to bring warm southern vibes to the Danish capital. It is a concept that has been brought to life by owners Jerry and Jonna Kadriev, who are already well-known in the local restaurant scene as a result of 18 years running the La Rocca eatery in the city centre, although the Danish-Italian duo’s F&B ventures also include the Pintxos tapas bar and a wine-trading company.
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This 300-seat restaurant, which comprises both an indoor seating
Scandi touch might first suggest. The half-moon-shaped beef carpaccio
Giacomo Russo, a 26-year-old Italian who has long enjoyed working in
drizzled with citronette dressing, truffle and herbs, and the homemade
sizeable à la carte restaurants. He attributes much of his career success
tagliolini pasta served with Norwegian lobster and prawn bisque, could
to his time in the kitchen with friend and mentor Christian Paradisi,
be seen as moving it up into more fine-dining territory. However, the
Executive Chef at the Radisson Collection Royal Hotel in Copenhagen.
young kitchen team is busy at work shaping the identity of the place,
“Working with Chris was a transformative experience for me,” he
whilst collaborating on everything with Jerry Kadriev, who has spent
admits. “I learned so much about hôtellerie and how to operate in big
ample time behind the stove himself. “Jerry gets involved in the kitchen,
restaurant spaces. That is when I grew to love these large dining rooms
which is great for working together, as he has a lot of experience and
and managing during busy hours of the day.”
offers valuable suggestions,” says Russo. “But he is also letting us be
Originally from Rome but with family roots in Sardinia and Naples, Russo’s southern Italian food influences are clearly evident on the menu.
creative to test our own ideas.” The restaurant’s Italian influences are readily apparent when it comes
Together with his sous chef, who also hails from Sardinia, they have
to sourcing both ingredients and drinks. Key items like cheeses and
been steadily working on improving the menu ever since the restaurant
cured meats come from Italy, while the wine selection is directed by the
first opened its doors. “The identity of Tramonto is not Sardinian,
owners and Sergio Custodio, Tramonto’s F&B Manager. “We collaborate
but it definitely has a more southern style, and we will move in that
with Sergio on the wine pairings and use a lot of wine reduction in the
direction,” he muses. “For example, we are now adding dishes with
sauces,” notes Russo. “Currently, we have a cabernet sauce and a white
bottarga to the menu, as salted and cured fish roe is very typical to that
wine sauce for the tagliolini, but we are working on many more.”
part of the world.” Some items on the current menu are probably more sophisticated
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than the venue’s aspiration to be a casual Italian joint with a laid-back
area and a 150-cover external terrace, is headed by Executive Chef
The bar programme is still being developed at the time of writing, although the venue is already starting to attract more cocktail
MAIN COURSE
Homemade torchietti, broccoli, stracciatella, chilli and anchovy
aficionados as the weather improves. There are also plans to brew its
Indeed, Tramonto’s kitchen exudes a strong sense of camaraderie and
own beer at a local brewery. “We try to incorporate old history and
shared purpose, with Russo successfully managing to keep his core team
make it interesting again,” explains Ulla Farlov, Event Coordinator at
close, while simultaneously recruiting ambitious new chefs to drive
Tramonto. “From the restaurant terrace, guests can see the Carlsberg
everyone forwards. “It is not easy to find the right people, but my aim
tower with the statues of brewmaster Carl Jacobsen and his wife Ottilia.
is to have people younger than myself here,” he reflects. “It is easier as
She was born in Scotland and her favourite flower was the thistle; inside
they have not been conditioned in any way, and are more open to new
our restaurant, you can see this motif reflected in the design elements.”
ideas. Currently, we have two couples working in the kitchen, we really
As part of Tramonto’s relationship with the wider property, breakfast is served here by the hotel team, who use clearly designated areas and
are like an Italian family.” All in all, the early signs for Tramonto are very promising. The
fridges, whilst conference catering and room service are executed by the
Danes, and everyone else for that matter, can rest assured that this
restaurant staff. “We manage the restaurant for the hotel, but this is
development was worth the wait, and perhaps raise a glass to the team
not a hotel restaurant,” says Russo. “It has its own identity and feel. We
who managed to keep F&B at the heart of the old Carlsberg brewery.
report to the owners and Lene Larsen, General Manager of the hotel, but we feel we are working in a restaurant.”
www.tramonto.dk
IN A BITE Covers: 150 (indoor), 150 (outdoor) • Owner: Jerry and Jonna Kadriev • Developer: Brøchner Hotels • Investor: Carlsberg Byen, Brøchner Hotels • Architecture: Brøchner Hotels, Arkitema • Interior Design: Brøchner Hotels, Mette Fredskild, Morten Hedegaard • Executive Chef: Giacomo Russo • F&B Manager: Sergio Custodio • Event Coordinator: Ulla Farlov • Dinnerware, Cutlery, Glassware and Barware: Brønnum • Table Linen: DFD • Lighting: Rubn Lighting • Menu Design: Bookvideo
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SWEETS
Trends and insight into the global foodservice sector
“Chefs and cooks are able to boost customer interaction by revitalising the art of serving food, bringing the dining room to the people instead of the people to the dining room� Yariv Kadosh, co-founder and CEO, Mogogo
Dashi onion at The Forest Side
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SIDES
Pick Your Own Dinner Forward-thinking UK hotels are looking to stand out from the crowd by organising immersive hunter-gatherer events for guests.
Words: Lucy Lovell
R
estaurants around the globe are experiencing a renewed interest in local, artisan products, and the UK is no exception. Farm-to-fork and foraged menus are cropping up thick and fast, but some hotels are taking it to the next level; from picking your own vegetables to
catching your own fish, properties are adding an eclectic range of events to the menu, enabling guests to get closer to their food than ever before. At The Forest Side, for example, is an establishment perfectly placed to offer immersive experiences to food-lovers. Set in the mountains of the Lake District, the 20-room luxury hotel and restaurant boasts a Michelinstarred menu that’s peppered with foraged and home-grown ingredients. Collecting wood sorrel, or picking pink purslane flowers, has long been a daily job for the chefs, and they’ve recently started inviting guests to forage alongside them. “People are gobsmacked by it – they’re doing it because they don’t understand it,” says Head Chef Kevin Tickle. A born and bred Cumbrian, spotting edible plants is second nature to Tickle, who honed his foraging skills during nine years at L’Enclume, Simon Rogan’s iconic restaurant-with-rooms in Cartmel. “Prior to that, I knew what a lot of it was, but I didn’t know what was edible,” remembers Tickle. It was at L’Enclume that Tickle first saw the price tag on the plants that
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Photography: © White Feather & Co
he’d been surrounded by during his childhood. Even back then, suppliers
from watching them,” he explains. “Guests now like to interact and talk,
were already cottoning onto the foraging trend, offering to deliver wild
and they’re all growing vegetables and cooking at home.”
ingredients to busy chefs, but Tickle had other ideas. “A lot of them were
Payne heads up the kitchen at the Michelin-starred Fischer’s Baslow
quite expensive to buy,” he recalls. “You’re paying £10 for 100g of wood
Hall, which is set in a picturesque corner of the Peak District surrounded by
sorrel, but you’ve got a wood behind the restaurant. Just go and pick it
gardens, lakes and woodland. Here, Payne and his team try to teach guests
yourself and save £100.”
about the flora and fauna of Derbyshire; the luxury hotel and restaurant
Tickle admits that chefs growing and foraging their own produce isn’t a novel concept, but what is new, he says, is guests’ interest in it. For him,
courses in collaboration with Totally Wild UK.
it’s partly due to the rise of the chef as a celebrity – something that he still
Unlike Tickle at The Forest Side – who prefers to take a maximum of
finds a little baffling. “Back in the day, you only ever went into the kitchen
four guests on his trips – Fischer’s works together with a local foraging
to meet chefs like Raymond Blanc and Michel Roux,” he reflects. “Now,
company, which can accommodate up to 18 guests per guide. This takes
every night I’ll have someone up at the pass talking to me, I just don’t get
some of the pressure off the kitchen team, and also gives Payne time to
it. They even want me to sign their menus.” The modest chef might not
prepare a luxurious lunch using wild ingredients when the group returns
completely understand all of the attention from starstruck guests, but he
to the hotel. “The forager will come into the kitchen in the morning, and
is hearing them out, and tweaking his offering to suit a new kind of diner:
he’ll tell us what they expect to find around the area, so that can give us
one that’s engaged, informed, and wants to emulate their idols.
ideas for what to cook,” says Payne. “When they come back, we’ll use those
Across the UK, the rise of the foodie is perhaps demonstrated by the
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organises a range of events including fly-fishing lessons and foraging
ingredients for their three-course meal.”
huge ratings garnered by some of its most popular TV shows, with the
The events at Fischer’s Baslow Hall give the guest something unique
likes of The Great British Bake Off and MasterChef putting amateur cooks
and long-lasting to take away with them: knowledge. Payne adds: “Guests
centre stage. According to chef James Payne, the blurred line between
really like the fact that they could go out for a walk with their dog the
professional and home cooking encourages guests to learn more through
following week, and say, ‘that’s wood sorrel, I can pick that and have that
immersive experiences. “People see all these TV programmes, and learn
with my tea’. You’ve not just come and had a lovely meal, you’ve been out
SIDES
Plating up at Glenapp Castle
in the morning, seen where we get the ingredients, what we do with them,
offers deer-stalking experiences, which are wildly popular. Setting off at
and eaten them. It gives them ideas for when they go home.”
daybreak, the four-hour trip goes either through the forests in the north of
Ayrshire’s dining destination Glenapp Castle has also noticed an increase
the island, or across the Cullin mountains. “We arrange a packed breakfast
in demand for immersive experiences, and has added the likes of eagle
for around 5am – smoked-salmon sandwiches and lots of delicious cakes
fishing, deer stalking and pheasant shooting to its offering. The hotel’s
to keep energy levels high,” says owner Isabella Macdonald.
newest package, the Hebridean Sea Safari, takes guests onto a private boat
The game is then butchered and hung, before being used in the Kinloch
to tour some remote islands. En route, they can enjoy a spot of fishing –
kitchen. This lengthy process means guests won’t eat the exact deer
with the option of being joined by Ripley the sea eagle – before having the
they’ve hunted, but the insight provided can enhance their respect and
catch prepared and cooked by the hotel’s chefs.
enjoyment of the food, says Macdonald. “I think foraging or hunting for
In addition to enhancing guests’ overall experience, Executive Chef
your own food makes it even better; you know exactly where that food
David Alexander says these events are a way of introducing them to more
has come from and you’ve had the thrill of finding it,” she notes. Giving
sustainable produce. “This year, I’m doing a cooking demonstration to
diners the opportunity to learn more about the food on their plate can
promote fish that are less well-known,” explains Alexander. “People now
have a big impact on future buying habits too. Macdonald sums up: “We
have more of an interest in what they’re putting in their bodies, and a
all love educating ourselves, and we never stop learning. If we’re educated
greater understanding of seasonality.”
a little bit in it – be it food, wine or whisky – we begin to notice it more
Working to raise the profile of less familiar ingredients in this way helps
and appreciate it.”
encourage guests to choose them on the menu, which can only be a good
Whether it’s learning about sustainable ingredients, reconnecting with
thing for the local economy and the environment, but there is also an added
the environment, or gaining a better understanding of chefs’ daily lives,
incentive for hoteliers. As Alexander puts it: “From a business point of
one thing is clear: guests want to lift the lid on the traditional restaurant
view, it’s cheaper to use produce that’s in season and on your doorstep.”
set-up. Today’s properties increasingly need to ensure they can cater to
Another hotel showcasing Scotland’s natural larder is Kinloch Lodge
the kind of customer who, rather than being waited on hand and foot, can’t
on the Isle of Skye. As well as foraging and fishing, the family-run retreat
wait to get their hands dirty.
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Cooking on Gas As the experience-led economy grows stronger, hotels across the globe are turning to live cooking stations to add an extra dimension to their F&B offering.
Words: Ben Thomas
I
n an age where Instagrammable décor and experience-
Balancing functionality, durability and mobility, the
led concepts dominate, hotels around the world are
firm’s Modular System enables restaurants to use the same
on the lookout for culinary programmes that add an
components to develop multiple dining configurations
extra dimension to their F&B offering. One of the latest
within a single space. Deployed at the Hilton Americas
developments to come to the fore is live cooking, an eye-
Leadership Conference in Orlando, where over 2,000 of the
catching format that involves chefs preparing dishes right in
hotel chain’s general managers gathered to enrich their
front of the guest.
knowledge in the art of station styling, food presentation
From carveries and barbecues to sushi bars and
and cooking, the Modular Banquet Stations line comprises
teppanyaki grills, live cooking can drive interaction
two ranges: Classic, a series of units and shelves that fit
between chefs and guests across a variety of cuisines; pasta,
together seamlessly, functioning as building blocks with a
noodles and fried rice are just some of the items that lend
sleek linear design that is adaptable to both traditional and
themselves particularly well to the concept. Often, diners
modern interiors; and Creative, a curved design concept that
are also invited to choose from a selection of sauces and
offers bespoke features based on Mogogo’s experience in
garnishes, enabling them to really personalise their plate.
mass foodservice operations.
“Live cooking stations transform back-of-house cooking
Recently, Mogogo entered into a landmark distribution
into a front-of-house spectacle for guests,” says Yariv
agreement with Steelite to distribute its F&B furniture
Kadosh, co-founder and CEO of F&B furniture solutions
solutions to the UK hospitality market; the move couples its
brand Mogogo. “Chefs and cooks are able to boost customer
premium buffet stations with Steelite’s extensive tabletop
interaction by revitalising the art of serving food, bringing
collections, giving hotel F&B venues more flexibility
the dining room to the people instead of the people to the
than ever before when it comes to presenting their F&B
dining room.”
offering to guests. According to Kadosh, creating the right
Working with the likes of Hilton, Marriott and Westin,
environment goes far beyond merely having a talented chef
as well as venturing into the world of aviation with Delta
who can put on a show: “For live food demonstrations to
Airlines, Mogogo aims to bring people together through food
be a success, there needs to be a good cooking induction,
– the name of the brand itself derives from a traditional
a cooling plate, storage space for kitchen utilities, shelves
communal oven used in Ethiopia. “Our stations focus more
for ingredients and finished dishes, but ultimately a
on presentation than technicalities,” Kadosh continues.
comfortable working space for the chef. Our add-ons like the
“They are not a direct replacement of the back-of-house
arch of hanging pots, pans and blackboards, as well as meats
kitchen, but rather a way of putting on a show and driving
and sausages, transform stations into mobile kitchens with
consumer interaction.”
a sense of personality.”
SWEETS
SWEETS
Mogogo’s Modular System
Parallel in its approach, Sico’s Mosaic modular buffet system has been
on the reputation of the brand’s original stone hearth ovens – the
and creates a versatile dining experience for a range of events. The
popularity of which has surged thanks to increasing demand for wood-
intuitive, lightweight design can be set up and transported easily, with its
fired pizza – the new rotisserie features a tempered glass front door and
17 drop-in modules all collapsible to the same cube shape. With minimal
optional rear access glass door that offers guests a sneak-peek at its ten
staff and no tools required thanks to the Transport & Storage Caddy, the
spit locations, where a variety of foods can be cooked simultaneously
system provides chefs with a flexible workspace that suits their needs,
without the risk of cross-contamination.
whilst also giving guests the best view possible. “From an intimate chef-prepared lunch for a small meeting to hot
Live cooking undoubtedly makes dining more interactive, creating an immersive environment that keeps hungry diners coming back for
appetisers alongside live music in a hotel lobby or a large ballroom
seconds. And though mobile stations require hotels to carefully consider
gathering, live cooking provides F&B venues with the ability to create
how plates are prepared, they also pose an opportunity for F&B venues
flexible, engaging events,” says Heidi Niesen of Sico. “Modular action
to showcase fresh and local ingredients, ensuring guests know exactly
stations create an element of entertainment by allowing guests to
what they are being served – particularly resonant at a time when food
customise their food choices, while encouraging interaction with the
transparency is such a hot topic.
chef. They should complement an interior décor and provide an element
Looking ahead, Niesen believes that creating culinary experiences will
of versatility, using interchangeable modules like induction cookers,
go beyond the menu: “As venues look for unique ways to differentiate
a plancha grill and pasta stations. Most importantly, all action station
and interact with guests, food preparation and presentation will be given
components must transport and store compactly.”
greater consideration. Interactive show cooking will continue to evolve,
Meanwhile, Washington State-based manufacturer Wood Stone recently introduced the Whatcom Gas Vertical Rotisserie, enabling chefs
084
and diners alike to share the cooking process in its entirety. Building
designed in consultation with celebrated chefs from around the world,
and so too will the demand for flexible, modular equipment that is designed to look like furniture and function like a professional kitchen.”
mosaic
Create. Engage. Experience. Bring the excitement and theatre of the k  itchen to the Front of the House using interchangeable chef inspired drop-in modules for maximum flexibility.
modular buffet system
THE AMERICAS
|
EUROPE
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ASIA
|
AUSTRALIA
|
Optimizing Spaces with Innovative Product Solutions sales@sicoinc.com
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www.sicoinc.com
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1.952.941.1700
MIDDLE EAST
SIGNATURE
Crispy Fried Bean Curd Sheet Roll Yun Jin Grand Hyatt Taipei Grand Hyatt Taipei has expanded its range of meat-free options to make
ginger, and sprinkled with white sesame seeds, accompanied by a helping
dining out easier for vegetarian guests. As part of the initiative, many of the
of fresh broccoli. The meat-free meal is presented to diners on plates made
property’s nine restaurants are introducing plant-based pork alternative
by a ceramic shop in Yingge District, featuring a bold pattern of radiating
Omnipork to their menus. The new culinary creations include double-
lines that draw the eye towards the centre.
boiled mushroom soup, steamed black truffle dumplings and crispy shredded vegetarian puffs. Another notable addition is this Crispy Fried Bean Curd Sheet Roll
Besides Yun Jin, Grand Hyatt Taipei’s extensive F&B offering also includes continental European grill Bel Air, Cantonese restaurant Pearl Liang and Italian eatery Ziga Zaga.
served at Yun Jin, a fine-dining restaurant offering delicacies from Beijing, Sichuan, Hunan, Shanghai, Hangzhou and Taiwan. Created by Chef de Cuisine Ben Hsieh, the dish is made by mixing together Omnipork, mushroom, celery, tapioca starch, salt, pepper, Chinese five-spice powder and black sesame oil; this is wrapped with burdock in a bean curd sheet and steamed for around eight minutes, then fried until golden brown. Next, the roll is dipped in a sauce packed with traditional Taiwanese sweet-and-sour flavours, fashioned from black sesame oil, black rice vinegar, sugar and
www.hyatt.com
Where form and function combine perfectly and quality is paramount. At Elia, innovation is second nature. Elia. Serving Professionals.
Elia International Ltd. 10 Aintree Road Perivale, Middlesex UB6 7LA United Kingdom Tel +44 (0)20 8998 2100 Fax +44 (0)20 8997 5596 sales@elia.co.uk www.elia.co.uk
SIGNATURE
Tomato Tatin Barristers Restaurant The Courthouse, Cheshire
This Tomato Tatin forms part of the new menu at Barristers
pan with balsamic vinegar of Modena, red wine, garlic and thyme
Restaurant, which enjoys a spectacular setting inside Knutsford’s
until the sauce has reduced to a syrup-like consistency. Black-
Sessions House, a Grade II*-listed building dating back to 1818
garlic purée and basil crisps add further depth of flavour, and the
that now houses The Courthouse, a luxurious boutique by Flat
various components are served with black onion seeds, pumpkin
Cap Hotels. The venue’s design cleverly references its past by
seeds, wild rocket and a balsamic dressing on a white Portland
incorporating courtroom furniture, legal props and framed
Academy plate, accompanied by weighty Chef & Sommelier cutlery.
pictures of figures who famously had run-ins with the law, while
“The concept for the dish was to create something that was both
the menu playfully continues the theme by splitting creations into
light and fresh in flavour and eating,” explains Head Chef Jake
‘Opening Statements’, ‘Proceedings’ and ‘Main Evidence’.
Rossington, who developed the Tomato Tatin with Junior Sous
The dish is made by blistering cherry tomatoes in a smoking-hot
Chef Jack Teasdale. “It uses a variety of different heritage tomatoes
pan, before adding garlic, thyme and Maldon sea salt, then quickly
that all bring their own flavour profile and marry together to create
removing from the heat and spooning alongside buffalo mozzarella
a nice balance.”
onto a puff-pastry case. These vibrant flavours are paired with an umami hit in the form of a halved banana shallot, cooked in a hot
www.thecourthousecheshire.com
New cutlery collection
SITELLO
Filigree hammering for timeless beauty.
WMF Professional | wmf-professional.com
The ultimate strong, thin, light, dishwasher safe and anti-scratch glassware combining traditional Japanese craftmanship with cutting-edge design
www.toyo.sasaki.co.jp/e @toyo_sasaki_glass
SIPPING
Trends and insight into the global drinks trade
“By offering a comprehensive range of complimentary beverages for our guests, customising specific items to their particular tastes, and placing them in their minibars, we ensure that their every need is met.� Dave Slater, Cellar Master, Matetsi Victoria Falls
The Port Report Port has long been steeped in tradition, but a new generation of hotel bartenders across Porto are showing how it can also produce characterful cocktails.
Words: Lucy Lovell
W
hen it comes to fashionable drinks, port might not be the first thing that springs to mind. This fortified wine hailing from Portugal’s Douro Valley is better known as an afterdinner nightcap than an afternoon livener, but now its
reputation is changing, and nowhere is this more evident than in Porto. It is here that innovative bartenders are shaking off outdated preconceptions, and serving their local tipple in exciting new ways. In order to understand where port may be going in future, it helps to understand its past. Records of wine production in the Douro Valley go back as far as the Roman Empire, but it really took off in the 17th century.
The boom was sparked by a trade agreement signed in 1703, which made it cheaper for Portugal to export wine to England; the result was a mad dash for land by many English and Scottish merchants, who set up vineyards on the banks of the River Douro. The story goes that after finding wine barrels were spoilt when they arrived in England, merchants in Portugal were inspired by local monks to add a small amount of brandy to their barrels. This increased the product’s ability to travel long distances, and preserved its natural sweetness. But it’s not just the addition of spirit that gives port its distinctive flavour, the unique terroir of the Douro Valley plays a vital part too. There’s no irrigation, the schist soil doesn’t hold water, and temperatures can reach a sweltering 50°C. Such a dry environment creates concentrated grapes with a thick skin, which in turn make a robust wine high in tannins.
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SIPPING
The Aurélia de Sousa cocktail at Torel Avantgarde uses rosé port
Photography: © Luís Ferraz
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SIPPING
Port tasting at The Yeatman Hotel
”We always wanted to demystify the traditional concept of port, so we created cocktails with a port base. We keep creating new cocktails that will reach a different, younger target audience; the same consumers who like gin.”
the horizon as a new generation of adventurous bartenders
Roberto Neves, Bar Manager at The Yeatman Hotel
best types of port to use in mixology is a ruby. “It’s a nice
rediscover this most versatile of drinks. In Porto, this frequently manifests itself in the form of cocktails, which are now at the heart of many drinks menus across the city. PortoBay Hotel Teatro’s bar Plateia is a prime example, with a selection of unusual and complex drinks on offer. According to Plateia Bartender Ana Olivaira, one of the port to make cocktails with, because you have the flavours of red fruits and chocolate,” she explains. “Sweet and intense,
This strong, flavourful wine is perfect for ageing and
094
it brings in some powerful flavours.”
fortifying, and the end results are incredibly varied. In Porto,
Among the hotel’s many creations is Red October, a short
types of port generally fall into four categories. Ruby, tawny
drink which revolves around one measure of Dows Finest
and white are well-established. Ruby is aged for a shorter
Reserve Port – a full-bodied and fruity ruby. To this, Olivaira
time in large barrels to prevent oxidisation; tawny is aged
adds two measures of Beluga Vodka, a dash of sugar syrup,
in small barrels to allow the wine to oxidise; and white port,
and lemon juice, before finishing with a twist of orange peel.
made with white grapes, is usually aged briefly to produce a
The end result is a complex drink, full of dark-fruit flavours
crisp, refreshing drink. The fourth type is rosé – a fairly recent
and a hint of chocolate orange.
phenomenon. Started by Croft in 2005, rosé port has a blush
There’s myriad different serves on offer in Porto currently,
pink colour, and boasts a slightly higher alcohol percentage.
but one particular cocktail is gaining so much traction it
Innovations like Croft Pink might be one of the key factors
threatens to overthrow the mighty G&T. “Port tonic is our
helping to underpin rising international demand for port.
most famous port cocktail,” explains Rúben Nito, Head
According to recent figures by the Portuguese Ministry of
Bartender at one of Porto’s newest luxury hotels, Torel
Agriculture, just over 1 million nine-litre cases of port were
Avantgarde. Here, they make port tonics with white or rosé
exported to the UK alone in 2017, up by nearly 6% since 2010.
versions – Nito prefers to use a Taylors Chip Dry, with a
It’s a promising start, but there could be more growth on
garnish of orange zest.
SIPPING
Vogue Café at Infante Sagres
Photography: © Numo
Despite its growing fanbase, the cocktail is relatively new.
For José Luis, Manager at Infante Sagres’ stylish new Vogue
According to Nito, no-one knows exactly when port tonic was
Café – one of only four around the world – cocktails are the
invented, but it has only taken off in Portugal fairly recently.
perfect way to introduce port to new customers. “Some come
“It has become famous in the last five years, very famous,”
here, look at our menus and think, ‘I don’t really like port, but
he adds. “We have the fashion of gin-and-tonic, which people
maybe we can try port wine cocktails, it could be different’,”
have already seen, and now they want port tonic.”
he says. “From here, people start liking and enjoying port,
When it comes to reinventing drinks, perhaps the biggest
096
and thinking, ‘let’s try it on its own’.”
challenge is educating customers – something that The
And no wonder new customers are drawn in – if there
Yeatman Hotel has ample experience of. Positioned next to
were any lingering misconceptions around port, Vogue Café
the River Douro, the hotel is one of Porto’s most iconic resorts
would easily dispel them. Porto Sour is lip-puckeringly tart,
and renowned for its extensive cellars, but not so well-known
and comes served in a glossy white-and-gold martini glass.
for port cocktails, despite them featuring on the menu since
Inside, ingredients like yuzu and grapefruit zest bring out the
its opening. “We always wanted to demystify the traditional
citrus flavours of the Taylors Chip Dry, while local honey gives
concept of port, so we created cocktails with a port base,”
it a touch of sweetness. The flawless creamy head, created
explains Roberto Neves, Bar Manager at The Yeatman Hotel.
using egg white, makes it look like a monochrome work of art.
“We keep creating new cocktails that will reach a different,
Despite the minimal exterior, there’s depth to Luis’ cocktails;
younger target audience; the same consumers who like gin.”
he uses surprisingly wholesome ingredients like his mother’s
Neves believes that taking an holistic approach can help make
homemade quince jelly. “Our DNA should be the same, but
port more fashionable, and his approach includes providing
with a nice modern twist,” he explains. “Our food has a lot of
port-related information in all of his drinks experiences. He
tradition, and I would like to see it stay that way.”
continues: “For the new generation, it is becoming an all-day
For Luis, and for many bartenders, it’s vital that innovations
drink – it’s not just a classic and traditional Christmas routine
are rooted in history. There will always be a place for serving
anymore. We are elucidating this idea in our wine tastings,
port neat but, for those willing to push the boundaries of
when talking about port, teaching port mixology and giving
cocktail-making, there’s also a whole world of flavour
recipes for port cocktails.”
combinations just waiting to be unlocked.
In-Room Oenology Innovative hotels are developing clever ways to showcase their wine offering to guests who choose to stay in their rooms.
Words: Nina Caplan
M
any hotels pride themselves on providing an excellent wine list for customers in their bars and restaurants, but all too often the standard of their in-room offering simply does not match up. The Hong Kong Hilton, now defunct, claimed
to have invented that mainstay of most in-room wine programmes, the minibar, in 1974 after F&B Director Robert Arnold was offered small bottles of spirits and mixers on a flight, and had an epiphany; the popularity of these self-service fridges led to a 5% rise in profits, and the whole industry took note – and followed suit. Today, however, the minibar’s reputation is under threat, and they are no longer seen as a straightforward symbol of luxury: the indication that a good hotel is like a home-from-home but better, since most homes don’t have an array of snacks and beverages right beside the bed. To tell the truth, in many places minibars merely became a repository for ill-considered amenities, even as the wider hotels in which they sit
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The wine vault at The Vineyard
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Singita Sasakwa Lodge offers a varied F&B programme
continue to innovate, differentiate and rise in the public’s esteem. Some
the desire to give guests space to enjoy spectacular vistas, wildlife and so
F&B directors are, like Arnold, spotting an opportunity here, not least
on, and the need to ensure they don’t go hungry, or worse still, thirsty,
because minibars present unparalleled scope for personalisation - a chance
at any point.
to impress modern guests who want the very best and want it now.
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Here again, the minibar can help, as demonstrated by properties such
The new Philippe Starck-designed Brach Hotel in Paris’ 16 th
as One&Only in Australia’s Wolgan Valley. At this isolated valley resort
arrondissement has certainly risen to the challenge by offering an extensive
in the Blue Mountains, every villa is freestanding, with its own lap pool
in-room ‘concept store’, containing everything from drinks and snacks to
as well as incredible views out over the landscape, while guests’ distance
headphones and candles, instead of a traditional minibar. Champagne –
from the main restaurant is offset by the provision of a generous minibar,
Bollinger or Billecart-Salmon – comes as standard, while wine can be
which is included in the room price; this minibar features Rowlee Arneis
ordered in from their 140-strong list. The emphasis is on individual choice:
from nearby Orange in New South Wales, Oakridge pinot noir from Victoria,
nobody tries to tell these guests which brands to drink.
and even its own Wolgan Valley gin, made with the valley’s botanicals.
Meanwhile, at Mona Pavilions, the beautiful hotel that’s part of
In Zimbabwe, Matetsi Victoria Falls has similarly turned the distance
Tasmania’s eccentric private Museum of Old and New Art (Mona), the
from the restaurant into an F&B selling point, with guests invited to
team flips convention on its head by treating the minibar as a wine list,
personalise their minibars on arrival. Staff note visitors’ preferences, then
featuring everything from top Australian labels such as Bindi, Clonakilla
offer an individualised menu of wines and cocktails – there are plenty
and Paradigm Hill to the best grower champagnes. There’s also a little
of options given the 3,000-strong cellar, including 15 house wines – all
self-promotion in the form of ales by Moo Beer, whose original brewery
delivered via a private ‘Butler Hatch’. “At Matetsi Victoria Falls, we believe
was located on the Mona site.
that personalisation is pivotal in creating the ultimate guest experience,”
Another major advantage behind providing a quality in-room offering
says Dave Slater, Matetsi’s Cellar Master. “By offering a comprehensive
has to do with distance. As luxury comes more and more to be associated
range of complimentary beverages for our guests, customising specific
with isolation – albeit, isolation in comfort – a tension grows between
items to their particular tastes, and placing them in their minibars, we
SIPPING
Grape-flavoured bath-bombs at Vista Collina Resort
Matetsi Victoria Falls provides a personalised in-room wine experience
Photography: © Joanna Salazar
Photography: © Elsa Young
ensure that their every need is met. Our butlers are also on-hand to make
to choose from. There is also a random selection of bottles from the Short
recommendations and give guidance to those who have never had a chance
List assigned to each guestroom – these are available to buy, so guests
to sample South African wines before.”
wanting more than just a glass to slake their thirst in the privacy of their
Elsewhere, guests of luxury conservation company Singita are encouraged to choose the make-up of their minibars from labels that can
own accommodation are not obliged to wait for room service or, heaven forfend, leave their rooms.
include wines from Stellenbosch or Franschhoek, or from a selection of
And for whimsy, it is hard to beat Vista Collina Resort in Napa Valley,
pinotage, the famed South African grape, that the brand claims is the
which opened in 2018. Here, visitors don’t just drink wine, they bathe
world’s largest. As a result, staff can trumpet the exclusivity and top-end
in it; guests staying in one of the 39 suites can order a flight from one
isolation of the Hillside Suite at Singita Sasakwa Lodge in Tanzania, while
of nine wineries attached to the property, along with a grape-flavoured
also promising an exceptional wine experience.
bath-bomb, so wine-lovers can wallow in sauvignon blanc, chardonnay or
Other properties have devised what might loosely be called a more
pinot noir, while sipping on the same. “We thought this in-bath ‘wine-ing’
whimsical in-room wine offering. The Vineyard in Berkshire is a country
package would give guests the best of both worlds, while also elevating
hotel that, as the name indicates, places a strong emphasis on oenology; as
our in-room amenities,” says General Manager Dave Elcon. He also points
well as a superb cellar, there is a spa with grape-related treatments and an
out that the bath-bomb makers, Napa Soap Company, are local, so this is
excellent restaurant; anything from its impressive list can be summoned
another route to supporting the community, while giving guests a truly
to the room. “Wine is at the heart of what we do,” says General Manager
individualised taste of the destination – although in this case, taste is
Paul Shanahan. “It’s an integral part of the guest’s journey. Ultimately,
probably the wrong word.
we want to help our guests create lasting, fond memories of their time
Clearly, a well-executed in-room wine offering can enhance the cachet
with us.” To do this, it offers a small, curated selection of particularly fine
of a hotel no end, luring luxury-loving oenophiles first to visit, and then to
wines, available by the glass or carafe, that changes monthly. Since its
stay longer. The days of merely providing lacklustre bottles and overpriced
cellar contains around 30,000 labels in total, guests certainly have plenty
miniatures are long gone – today, individualisation is king.
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COCKTAILS
Lonely Street The American Bar The Savoy, London
T
he American Bar at The Savoy has launched a creative 20-strong cocktail menu, The Savoy Songbook, in homage to the musicians and songwriters who have entertained its
guests down the years. Each serve is named after a memorable lyric from a song that encapsulates the bar’s unique atmosphere and, in an industry first, the list is accompanied by a live album recorded by the venue’s resident pianist Jon Nickoll, which patrons can stream or buy on Spotify. The menu is the result of months of work by The American Bar team, led by Head Bartender Maxim Schulte and Director of Bars Declan McGurk. The last entry on the menu, Lonely Street, is conceived as “a whisky sipping drink spiked with some rare mezcal that reflects the mood of the song Heartbreak Hotel”, according to Schulte. Created by Senior Bartender Giannis Sitanos, it features Craigellachie 17 whisky, Pescador mezcal, Discarded Sweet Cascara vermouth, white port infused with Greek baklava, sugar syrup, Peychaud’s bitters, Angostura bitters and homemade coffee oil. The sophisticated drink is poured into an elegant short glass by John Jenkins, whose weight reinforces the overall sense of luxury, and served under a cover that is lifted off at the table to release a cloud of aromatic wood smoke. Other cocktails on the new menu include the Kings of Leon-inspired Radio Hurricane (Woodford Reserve Double Oaked bourbon, pedro ximénez sherry, salted chestnut liqueur, Vermouth Dry Cocchi-Savoy, toasted oak bitters and a refreshing slice of papeda) and Sun Sun Sun (Bombay Sapphire gin, banana, Tio Pepe fino sherry, Cocchi Americano and Figaro liqueur), a crowd-pleasing nod to The Beatles’ classic Here Comes The Sun. www.thesavoylondon.com
At JING, we believe that single-origin teas deliver the most authentic drinking experience, capturing true craftsmanship, local culture and the individuality of each tea garden.
WWW.JINGTEA.COM
DRINKS
Absolut Elyx
The Absolut Company The Absolut Company, part of Pernod Ricard, has unveiled a striking new bottle design for its luxury vodka Elyx. Made from over 40% recycled glass, the new concept celebrates the vintage copper credentials central to the spirit’s creation, showcasing a sleeker, lustrous and more elegant form that really stands out on the back bar. Available in more than 70 markets worldwide, Elyx is made from the finest winter wheat grown on a single estate in the south of Sweden allied to pristine water from the distillery’s own natural aquifer, while the distillation process makes extensive use of copper to remove impurities and shape the vodka’s unique taste. Every part of the production process, from seed to bottle, takes place within a 15-mile radius of the brand’s home, enabling Master Distiller Krister Asplund and his team to keep a close eye on quality throughout. On the nose, Elyx presents bready aromas with notes of white chocolate and light cereal. On the palate, it displays a full-bodied and silky mouthfeel with waves of rich macadamia nuts and creamed cereal accompanied by buttery overtones, before finishing with a rounded mellow spiciness. The vodka, which comes in at 42.3% ABV, is perfectly suited to serving either on the rocks or in cocktails. www.absolutelyx.com Photography: © Laurence Hudghton Photography
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DRINKS
Photography: © Sofia Gomez Fonzo
15 Years XO
No1 Rosemary Water – Sparkling
Cognac Frapin
No1 Botanicals
Successfully marrying terroir and house spirit, Cognac Frapin’s 15 Years
Made from organic rosemary extract and eucalyptol, No1 Rosemary
XO has emerged from the brand’s 240-hectare Grande Champagne
Water is not only alcohol-free, but also contains no sugar, salt,
vineyard to present connoisseurs with bold notes of wood, vanilla and
preservatives or allergens. The pioneering botanical drink is inspired by
spiced tea. An irresistible golden hue, the new recipe serves as a natural
the age-defying dietary habits of the small Italian village of Acciaroli,
conclusion to the Trésors du Château series, contrasting nostalgia for
where approximately one in ten residents live beyond the age of 100,
traditional distillery practices with a contemporary flavour profile –
with many also managing to steer clear of common illnesses such as
the choice to eschew the cold filtering process resulting in aromatic
dementia in their later years. This gently sparkling variety comes in
richness and a delicately balanced finish. Lively, charming and brilliant,
a range of formats suitable for stocking behind the bar, including a
it passes directly from barrel to bottle at 45.3% without any loss of
200ml soda serve, 330ml single serve and 750ml table serve, while a
potency or flavour.
still version is available too.
www.cognac-frapin.com
www.rosemarywater.com
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Photography: © Justin Gardner
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Colombian Jazz Speciality Blend
Local Heroes No.3
Iron & Fire
Portobello Road Gin
The crowd-pleasing Colombian Jazz Speciality Blend brings together
Created by Portobello Road Gin in partnership with rock legend Mark
the best coffee from the Eje Cafetero region of the country, an area
Knopfler, Local Heroes No.3 is a bold special-edition gin combining the
known for its volcanic soil, high altitude, ample rainfall and abundant
nine botanicals found in its signature blend with lime zest, cucumber
rainforest, where farmers still use traditional methods to produce their
peel and olive oil. The label design is inspired by Knopfler’s love of
exceptional harvests. Iron & Fire carefully roasts the beans to deliver a
guitars, while each bottle features a miniature version of his iconic
full-bodied mouthfeel on the palate, with rich chocolate and caramel
sweatband in a playful reference to the star’s legendary live shows.
undertones allied to a bright cherry acidity. A complex roast that
The Local Heroes collection celebrates individuals who embody the
rewards careful extraction, it is also a highly versatile coffee that helps
spirit of London’s Portobello Road, with the former Dire Straits frontman
baristas achieve excellent results across a range of serves, from punchy
following in the footsteps of The Ledbury’s Chef-Patron Brett Graham
espresso to milky latte.
and MasterChef Italia judge Carlo Cracco.
www.ironandfire.co.uk
www.portobelloroadgin.com
DRINKS
Photography: © Kris Piotrowski Photography
Organic Darjeeling Tea First Flush
Jing Tea
Hailing from the renowned Seeyok Tea Estate in the Mirik Valley area of Darjeeling, this exceptional loose-leaf tea is supremely fragrant, combining complex floral aromas with fruity and honeyed notes. On the palate, it is pleasingly crisp and light upfront, before giving way to a rounded and quenching finish. This best-in-class beverage is the 2019 winner of the Excellence at Origin Competition, launched by Jing founder Ed Eisler to celebrate the quality of Darjeeling tea, promote authentic craftmanship and encourage the retention of skills locally. Darjeeling’s climate is unlike any other tea-producing region; its relatively cool and dry atmosphere affects how plants grow, resulting in
a delicate flavour that is highly prized overseas. No fewer than 17 teas entered the contest, which set out to find the first-flush tea that best expresses the region’s unique characteristics, and each submission was subjected to rigorous judging by a panel of experts. Established in 2004, Jing now supplies tea to various Michelin-starred restaurants and fivestar hotels around the world. Underlining its gastronomic credentials, the brand has also partnered with a host of top chefs down the years, including Heston Blumenthal, Joël Robuchon, Richard Ekkebus and Pierre Gagnaire. www.jingtea.com
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EVENTS Key events in the global hotel F&B calendar
Imbibe Live
Bar Convent Berlin
HX
1-2 July 2019
7-9 October 2019
10-11 November 2019
London
Berlin
New York
Tales of the Cocktail
The Annual Hotel Conference
AHEAD MEA
16-21 July 2019
9-10 October 2019
13 November 2019
New Orleans
Manchester
Dubai
Maison & Objet
Host
AHEAD Europe
6-10 September 2019
18-22 October 2019
18 November 2019
Paris
Milan
London
The Hotel Show
Forty One Madison
Sleep + Eat
17-19 September 2019
29 October-1 November 2019
19-20 November 2019
Dubai
New York
London
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To The Table Europe 9-11 April 2019 Monaco
Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: © Richard Pereira
To The Table Europe took place at Monaco’s Le Méridien
To The Table’s organisers certainly managed to achieve that
Beach Plaza in April, with 120 suppliers and buyers from the
vital sense of freshness, with more than two-thirds of buyers
F&B industry mingling and conducting business over the
and nearly half of suppliers attending for the first time. From
course of two productive days in the Mediterranean. A positive
the buyer side, the newcomer list was impressive and included
atmosphere of collaboration and camaraderie was evident
companies such as Radisson Hotel Group, Belmond, Pestana
throughout the packed programme of one-to-one business
Group and Silversea Cruises, while manufacturers like AACo
meetings, seminars, networking sessions and meals, although
from Australia, Fredman Perfect Kitchen Oy from Finland and
the culinary and scenic highlight undoubtedly came at the
MEC2 from Germany were all inaugural participants at the
end of the first day, as attendees headed to the rooftop of the
supplier tables.
Monaco Yacht Club to snap photos of the sunset and sip rosé by the beautiful coastline.
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The four one-hour seminar sessions that broke up the programme of pre-arranged meetings were chaired and
For many delegates, the success of any event series is
moderated by Supper’s Consulting Editor Heleri Rande. The
directly related to its ability to attract newcomers while
first panel included Ben Webb, co-founder of 3Stories, and
simultaneously keeping veterans engaged year after year, and
Craig Milne, Vice President of Global Design for Europe at
EVENTS
Marriott International, who debated where hotel restaurant
Chef-Patron of Kitchen Theory, kept participants’ attention
design is heading in the future. Webb was keen to highlight
with his confident delivery and research-based exploration
the importance of brand-building from the start, a process
of this oft-overlooked aspect of eating out. Working on
that he believes should run simultaneously with the design
gastrophysics alongside Professor Charles Spence from the
element. “Define who you are and why you do it before
University of Oxford, Youssef has been able to use the data
jumping into the physical appearance of the identity and
gathered to help create curated dining concepts. He also
space,” he said. “The brand should drive all aspects of the
looked at how F&B professionals must meet the expectations
design from your website through to the knives and forks you
of diners seeking out fresh experiences, saying: “If you don’t
use on the tables.”
produce meaningful content as part of the experience then all
The afternoon discussion, meanwhile, explored how
the effort will be worthless for the end user.”
operators such as AccorHotels and Marriott International
The seminar part of the conference closed by discussing
are responding to the changes in consumer behaviour; the
a topic that is more pressing than ever in the hospitality
session began with a top-trends overview, drawing the
sector, how to attract, retain and develop talent, with
audience’s attention to topics like the rise of the healthy-
insightful contributions from three distinguished panellists.
eating and free-from movements, the impact that food
“In training, we teach staff the what and the how, but in
delivery and dark kitchens are having on hotel restaurants,
educating, we teach them the why – this must be understood
and how competitive socialising is becoming the new norm
by the industry,” advised Marc Stierand, Associate Professor
in entertainment. Panellists Gustaf Pilebjer, Director of Food
of Service Management and Director of the Institute of
& Beverage for Europe at Marriott International, and Martin
Business Creativity at École Hôtelière de Lausanne in
Jones, Vice President of Food & Beverage for Luxury Hotels
Switzerland. And Ramjan Bhugeloo, Regional Vice President
Europe at AccorHotels, both agreed that the shift in customer
of Human Resources at Hyatt International EAME, and
expectations is putting additional pressure on brands to think
David Singleton, Area Vice President of Franchise Operations
more strategically about their food and drink efforts. “The
and Development for AMEA and South Asia at Hard Rock
F&B offers at our hotels need to stay true to branding, we
International, concluded that whilst recruiting for personality
focus a lot more on behavioural trends than ever before,”
is key, the geographical differences in properties play a huge
explained Pilebjer.
role in how this approach manifests itself on the ground.
The morning keynote of day two had the audience participate in multisensory experiments as Jozef Youssef, founder and
www.tothetableeurope.com
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Photography: © Richard Pereira
To The Table MEA 29 April-1 May 2019 Abu Dhabi
Rosewood Abu Dhabi welcomed 120 senior F&B buyers and suppliers for
of Food & Beverage for AccorHotel’s Luxury Brands in the Middle East.
the 2019 edition of To The Table MEA, with attendees enjoying three
They argued that it was time to re-focus following the over-supply of
days of meetings, seminars and networking sessions. This year, 50% of
large-cover restaurants. The next morning saw Samer Hamadeh, founder
suppliers were new, including William Edwards, Rational and J.J. Darboven,
of Aegis Hospitality; Colin Clague, Executive Chef of Rüya; and Parolio,
while the buyer side – of which 75% were first-time attendees – featured
Creative Director and founder of Parolio and Euphoria Lab, discuss the
AccorHotels, Hilton Worldwide, Hyatt Hotels Corporation, Kempinski,
need to buck trends. Everyone present agreed that the main factor standing
Marriott International and Rotana Hotels.
in the way of success was fear – whether on the part of restaurateurs or
The seminar programme, hosted by Devina Divecha, opened by focusing
landlords. The final session focused on talent retention, with Sunjeh Rajah,
on the power of a brand; Gorgeous Group founder Robbie Bargh and Candice
CEO of the International Centre for Culinary Arts in Dubai; Mahmoud
D’Cruz, Vice President of Luxury Brand Marketing and Management in the
Abulwafa, Area Director of Human Resources, Abu Dhabi and Al Ain hotels,
MEA at Marriott International, agreed that good storytelling was of utmost
Marriott International; and Richard Vivian, Head of Centre of Excellence,
importance while Bargh concluded: “It’s not what the restaurant looks
Transguard Group on the panel. Rajah noted: “The industry is growing, it
like, it’s what it makes the audience feel like.”
is more discerning and looking for ‘plug-and-play’ candidates.”
There was also an overview of the Middle East’s F&B landscape courtesy of Christian Abell, Vice President Food & Beverage MEA, Marriott
The next To The Table MEA will take place at The St. Regis Abu Dhabi from 30 March-1 April 2020.
International; Christian Gradnitzer, Senior Director of Food & Beverage Operations MEA, Hilton Worldwide; and Russell Scott, Vice President
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www.tothetablemea.com
EVENTS
NRA Show 18-21 May 2019 Chicago
The National Restaurant Association Show celebrated its 100th anniversary
by the Technomic Ask The Expert sessions, exploring common business
at Chicago’s McCormick Place in May 2019. For the fifth year running,
challenges and opportunities, and the Digital Media Slam, examining how
organisers achieved record exhibit space sales, while the registration
innovative brands are using digital tools to achieve their goals.
figure also exceeded last year’s total, coming in at more than 65,500.
Meanwhile, the show’s centenary was celebrated in style, with Eli’s
“The centennial show was a success by every measure,” says Mary Pat
Cheesecake creating a spectacular birthday cake rising 23ft-high, which
Heftman, President of the Restaurant Show Group at Winsight. “Besides
was then shared out among attendees. Tao Chicago also hosted a special
the record exhibit sales and strong attendance growth, the energy on the
100th anniversary party on the Monday, held in conjunction with the Star
floor was palpable.”
of the Bar mixology competition finals.
For many, the highlight of the show’s lively education programme was
More than 100 countries were represented at the event, along with all
the annual Signature session, bringing together senior leaders from across
50 US states; among those attending were Marriott International, Hilton
the foodservice sector to discuss the future of dining. Moderated by Dawn
Worldwide and Hyatt Hotels Corporation; contract management specialists
Sweeney, President and CEO of the National Restaurant Association, a
Compass Group, Sodexo and Aramak; and dealer-distributors US Foods,
panel boasting Cooper’s Hawk Winery & Restaurants founder and CEO
TriMark and Edward Don & Company. In response to strong demand,
Tim McEnery, and Applebee’s Bar & Grill President John Cywinski, shared
organisers are planning to expand into a fourth exhibit hall for the next
their insight into how consumer habits are rapidly evolving. The event also
instalment, which will run from 16-19 May 2020.
welcomed a host of new features; the Sysco Culinary Experience Center, where delegates learnt the latest applied trends and techniques, was joined
www.nationalrestaurantshow.com
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114
EVENTs
The Future of All-Day Dining Supper in Partnership with Tiger
Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: © Picture One Studio
The Vision
About Tiger
For this special event, Supper teamed up with Tiger to discuss the future of all-day dining,
Tiger is a leading manufacturer of high-
and consider how changing guest expectations are influencing product and spatial design
quality buffetware and multipurpose trolleys.
in hotel F&B venues worldwide. A panel of experts shared their insights with an invited
Headquartered in South Korea, it has production
audience of leading figures from Asia’s hospitality scene at the new Rosewood Hong Kong.
sites in Seoul and Tianjin.
The Speakers
The Menu
The Co-Hosts
Heleri Rande
Cold Canapés
MY Chang
Consulting Editor, Supper
Prime Beef Tartar, Wonton Shell
Chairman, Tiger
Tuna Tartare, Spicy Mayonnaise Tartlet Anurag Bali
Brie Cheese Tortilla
Assistant Vice President of F&B
SJ She President, Tiger
(North Asia, Philippines and
Hot Canapés
Pacific), Shangri-La Hotels &
Barbecued Goose with Pancake
Miyoun Chang
Resorts
Roast Tandoori Salmon Fillet with Lime
Executive Director, Tiger
Onion and Leek Quiche Karen Hay
Black Truffle & Mushroom Vol-au-Vent
INdulge Eelco Bohtlingk
Tyler Chang Director, Tiger
Founder & Creative Director Cocktail ‘40 Sq Feet’ Plantation Original Dark rum, Campari,
Jiyoun Chang
Mancino Rosso, plum, bitter chocolate
Co-ordinator, Tiger
Mocktail ‘Silver of Sun’
David Dong
Strawberry vinegar, jasmine kombucha,
China Sales Manager, Tiger
Director, Design Development Operations, Marriott International
pepper tinctures
115
The Guests Gregory Philippe Executive Assistant Manager Island Shangri-La Hong Kong Limi Chan Senior Group Director of Chinese Cuisine, Langham Hospitality Group Paul Lenz Executive Chef Kowloon Shangri-La Hong Kong Ed Ng Co-Founder, AB Concept Mariana Foley Senior Designer, Joyce Wang Design Dirk Dalichau Managing Director, Eaton HK Federico Masin Partner, HBA Gloria Lui Founding Partner & Director In Situ & Partners Julian Darisse Resident Manager \Island ShangriLa Hong Kong Ella Bridgland Interior Designer Joyce Wang Design Gavin Au Design Manager, INdulge Yvonne Cheung Director of Restaurants & Bars The Upper House ClĂŠment Larre Manager, Design Development Operations, Asia-Pacific Marriott International Jenayne Chua Assistant General Manager Cornerstone International Philippines Raymond Chan General Manager, Anglo Swiss Trading Company (Hong Kong) Amy Cheong Operations Manager, Anglo Swiss Trading Company (Hong Kong) Ryuichiro Saji General Manager, DAC Corp Kayuza Takesaw Manager, DAC Corp Julius Simon Aritonang General Manager Arsi Labora Utama Colin Yin General Manager Shenzhen Maizi Hotel Supplies Co. Ben Lin General Manager Shanghai MinDao Hotel Equipment and Accessories Co.
116
EVENTS
The Chat
Anurag Bali: When developing a hotel’s F&B offering, it is possible to
don’t look like chafing dishes come to market for example – I applaud
service every mealtime throughout the day from one venue, as long as
Tiger for making a big step in that direction.
you always have a clear concept in mind. The secret is to look at an outlet from two angles – functionality and, more importantly, core purpose.
AB: Tiger is doing a great job by focusing so much on the design of their
First, design the space by taking into account the market, local client and
products. At Shangri-La, I have a wish-list when it comes to the design of
demographics, and only then work backwards to see how you can make it
any products used in our restaurants. Wireless devices, like toasters and
functional for breakfast.
induction units, are great, as is the ability to work with vendors to retail items such as plates and glassware, because you never know when guests
Karen Hay: Start out by thinking what the values of the concept are –
might see something they like as part of their dining experience. On the
whether you are focusing on the sustainability, provenance or health
technology front, meanwhile, I am really looking forward to automated
aspects, make sure that this becomes the centre of your concept. Do not
email reports to facilitate easier processes for management.
design the restaurant for a mealtime, but with a proper concept in mind, and then make mealtimes work around that. For breakfast, you can always
EB: With buffet design, flexibility is key, and customisation is increasing in
use another venue to increase seat count.
importance. However, sustainability and environmental impact also need to be taken into consideration.
Eelco Bohtlingk: Marriott International is such a big company now, so we have to work with many concepts. The key is to get the right partners; for a
AB: Hotels need to be smart about what they include on buffets too – we
Thai concept, we get a Thai chef, and so on. We only think about breakfast
are moving to what I call ‘one-dish wonders’. This means we produce one
afterwards, and whatever route we choose has to be convenient because
dish that is world-class for our buffet stations, and make this the anchor,
that is what travellers want.
rather than trying to create a variety of items catering to different tastes.
KH: There are lots of clever ways to make F&B spaces modular. For
KH: One of my favourite all-day dining spaces is Prego in Fairmont
example, a barista counter in the morning can easily be transformed into
Singapore, which might be old and under renovation, but always had a
a back bar in the evening – switching the focus from cups to bottles. And
fantastic breakfast buffet with amazing homemade pastries, pressed juices
lighting is the biggest game-changer in any transformation, it is your
and coffee. When breakfast finished, it then seamlessly became an Italian
number one trump card.
restaurant for lunch and dinner guests.
AB: Shangri-La has 25-year-old restaurants in our portfolio, and not all
AB: We completely changed the fundamentals at the Kerry Hotel in Hong
can be refreshed, but what we are able to do is organise collaborations
Kong, building the first all-day food hall with a big focus on technology.
and pop-ups. That really lifts the existing offering, and gives you an
We have eight different brands in there and host live music nights – it has
opportunity to create moments that are new for guests and exciting for
been a huge success across a range of demographics.
your team. EB: I’d recommend La Mercerie, an independent restaurant in New York, EB: When it comes to perfecting a hotel’s F&B offering, renovations are
as a great learning experience – chef Marie-Aude Rose has extended her
always more complex than newbuilds as you have less control over the
concept to breakfast, creating a truly all-day dining experience. If guests
decision-making process, but the way we convince owners to change is by
are presented with the right concept, they’ll be just as adventurous at
sharing case studies. The Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park is a great
breakfast as they are at lunch and dinner. We just need to trust them more.
example – its all-day dining space Goji Kitchen + Bar was a real gamechanger for the property because it transformed into different concepts
The event concluded with attendees networking over a mouth-watering
throughout the day.
selection of cocktails and canapés. Each guest also received a special gift from Tiger in the form of a traditional Korean gift box containing stylish
KH: Tableware and buffetware need to complement the food and tabletop
chopsticks and cutlery.
as well, you must have eye candy. These days, all aspects of an F&B venue can be photographed, so everything you touch and feel has to sit within
If you’d like to find out more about Tiger’s extensive range of products,
the story of the entire place. I am very glad to see new chafing dishes that
please visit www.tigerhotel.co.kr
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Vector H Series ÂŽ
Multi-Cook Oven
Ovens unlike any other.
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ALTO-SHAAM MIDDLE EAST & AFRICA, Dubai, UAE Phone +971 4 321 9712 | gabriele@alto-shaam.com www.alto-shaam.ae
SIDES
Showcasing the products and services bringing F&B venues to life
“The development of a multipart collection places very special demands on design and construction because, after all, each part should work alone but also together.� Susanne Schmidt, Head of Marketing and Product Management, proHeq
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SIDES
Elemental Force Hepp famously invented ‘hotel silver’ in the 19th century but its latest range, Elements, shows how innovation remains the company’s guiding principle to this day.
Words: Richard Frost
T
he hospitality world is full of companies that boast an impressive
For Schmidt, the launch of Elements represents the culmination of
track record of supplying hotels down the years, but few can claim
untold hours of hard work behind the scenes. “We started the project in
to have truly transformed the sector in that time, blazing a trail
2016 with a comprehensive market research campaign,” she recalls. “The
that countless others would ultimately follow. Hepp, founded by
development of a multi-part collection places very special demands on
brothers Carl and Otto Hepp in 1863, is one such business.
design and construction because, after all, each part should work alone but
In 1871, Carl developed a process to apply a thick layer of silver to a
also together.” Fortunately, the team already had experience of bringing
base metal, an innovation that paved the way for Hepp to create a host
challenging ideas to market, having previously created the award-
of attractive products capable of withstanding the rigours of the catering
winning Sequence modular buffet range. Elements effectively translates
industry. Gebrüder Hepp 90, also known as ‘hotel silver’, quickly gained
the Sequence concept to the laid table, and the two series have even been
a loyal following as luxury properties around the world seized on the
designed so that they can be deployed together as well as separately.
opportunity to diversify away from products made from ‘pure silver’;
Like Sequence, Elements showcases a futuristic design aesthetic, while
business boomed, and the success of this pioneering German company
tapping into the trend for hotel procurement teams to try and emulate the
spawned a host of imitators.
ambience of private homes in their F&B spaces, rather than the overtly
Fast-forward to the present and Hepp, which now forms part of proHeq,
corporate look popular in years gone by. Buyers can also tailor the collection
a subsidiary of the WMF Group, remains at the forefront of innovation,
to their surroundings by requesting surface treatments like stone washing,
as demonstrated by the successful launch at foodservice and hospitality
glass bead blasting or PVD colour coating, as well as adding customised
trade fair Internorga of its bold new tabletop range. Elements is a modular
features on individual items, such as engraving a company logo onto the
27-piece collection made from 18/10 stainless steel, concrete, porcelain,
bottle coolers; a full repair service is provided, moreover, to fix any dents
glass and melamine; two elegant stands provide the base elements, each
or polish items whose lustre has faded over time. “Hepp Elements is aimed
of which can be combined with three clips to extend the available surface
at hoteliers with the courage to try something extraordinary, who want to
area onto different levels. Users can then add a plethora of accessories
set themselves apart from the crowd,” says Schmidt.
like dishes, bowls, trays, salt-and-pepper mills, toothpick stands, oil-
Hepp has clearly come a long way since that fateful moment 150 years
and-vinegar bottles, pastry stands, sauce jugs and bottle coolers as
ago when its founders invented ‘hotel silver’, yet the company is clearly
circumstances require.
not resting on its laurels. Instead, the business has managed to walk the
This flexibility is what sets the collection apart from the competition,
fine line between tradition and modernity, maintaining its longstanding
since it can be easily adapted to cater for a variety of hotel F&B settings, from
commitment towards producing quality products, while also responding
coffee in the lounge to lunch or dinner in the signature restaurant. “Hepp
to the fact that hotels are increasingly looking for ways to cut costs across
Elements offers an extremely high degree of modularity and versatility,”
their F&B operations. One wonders what the Hepp brothers would make of
explains Susanne Schmidt, Head of Marketing and Product Management
it all if they were around today. Schmidt concludes: “We strongly believe
at proHeq, “so our customers have almost unlimited possibilities when it
that the founders of the brand would be proud of what we have achieved
comes to both design and function.” A perfect case in point is the flower
– and that the basic DNA of Hepp is still alive and well.”
vase, which can be quickly converted into a candlestick holder by means of a special nozzle adapter.
www.hepp.de
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A DEDICATED HOTEL & RESTAURANT ITINERARY
MAISON&OBJET 06 — 10 SEPT. 2019 PARIS
TRENDS AND NEW SOURCES OF INSPIRATION
THE BEST IN DESIGN, DECORATION AND LIFESTYLE
#MO19
PETITS FOURS
I Meravigliosi Artis
Translating as marvellous in Italian, the I Meravigliosi collection by Artis features ten subtly different shapes of bowl, each designed by Luigi Bormioli to capture the intense aroma of numerous grape varieties, bringing out the best in different wine types. Light and balanced in the hand, while at once robust and flexible thanks to a titanium reinforced Sonhyx manufacturing process, the range is completed by a coupe and a stemless model. www.artis-uk.com
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Aether Libbey
Libbey’s Aether range interprets the textures found in raw materials such as rock, wood and water, as well as the natural phenomenon of cracked dry soil in an arid terrain. The collection’s bold and distinctive design builds on a simple plunger pattern to create a sense of tranquillity, while the cut-glass and exterior rings pay homage to Libbey’s heritage. The glasses are also available in a clear version. www.libbey.com
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PETITS FOURS
Muffin & More
Pro Bar Station
The Muffin & More stand from Tiger is a swivel display unit on which chefs can place cupcakes and other sweets. Manufactured in stainless steel, the stand features a series of rings as well as double-walled borosilicated cups, allowing for several desserts to be presented at once. The display joins the Korean supplier’s range of modular buffet systems, carving stations and heating lamps, induction chafing dishes, urns and dispensers, trolleys and hollowware.
Mogogo’s Pro Bar Station is highly adaptable for a wide range of events, from classic wine tastings to curated mixology programmes and cocktail receptions. Combining a sleek design with functional elements, the stainless-steel working space features an ice bin, speed rail and shelf space for storing equipment. As the flagship product in Mogogo’s barware collection, the unit comes in multiple finishes, including black marble, grey slate and mango wood.
www.tigerhotel.co.kr
www.mogogo-buffet.com
LaCimbali M100 Attiva
Redefining Modern Uniforms
The new M100 Attiva model features improvements in its design, thermal system, ergonomics and interface – the latter featuring electromechanical keys and an OLED display. The integrated system is intended to make coffee-making operations more user-friendly; the buttons enable users to instantly give commands, while the OLED display allows for the control of various parameters, such as the number of seconds to dispense the drink, the water temperature in the boiler and the desired pressure.
Translating the architecture and interior design of properties into modern, sophisticated vestments for hospitality staff, Lady and Butler is dedicated to bridging the gap between form and function. Founded by Barcelonaborn fashion designer Eli Caner, the company crafts uniforms to complement the creative direction of restaurants and hotels, with recent projects including The Standard in Miami, The Hollywood Roosevelt in LA and a collaboration with Pierre Hermé Paris.
www.cimbali.com
www.ladyandbutler.com
Tiger
Gruppo Cimbali
Mogogo
Lady and Butler
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PETITS FOURS
Rocket
Studio 1765 Designed by Amilios Grohmann in collaboration with Martin A Koebke, Studio 1765’s Rocket collection comprises wine and champagne coolers in a range of finishes including copper, stainless steel and black. Combining cutting-edge design with functionality, practicality and style, the stackable coolers are available in floor-standing and tabletop versions with removable drip tray, and cater to a variety of different hospitality environments. www.studio1765.com
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BETTER BY DESIGN
Clients tell us we probably have the best collection of the world’s most innovative tableware under one roof. That’s because we are not afraid to be bold in our choices of brands and producers we work with. And if a product that we want doesn’t yet exist, we will have it made. Our aim is to help hospitality market leaders keep ahead of the competition by interpreting emerging trends through products and concepts. If you are a leader not a follower and you have a project which demands something
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extraordinary, whether in the U.K. or beyond; give us the challenge.
VISIT OUR LONDON SHOWROOM First Floor, 20 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8BS
HEAD OF THE TABLE Our tableware buyer’s resource helps link decision-makers with the best suppliers on the market, giving brands an opportunity to highlight need-to-know facts such as key product ranges, hotel projects, trade shows and sales contacts.
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Asianera
Bonna
Product Categories: Tableware, living accesories, giftware • Projects: Raffles Hotel Singapore, The PuLi Hotel & Spa Shanghai, Jumeirah Nanjing • Trade Shows: Maison & Objet, Ambiente, To The Table • Contact: Grace Liu, Managing Director, graceliu@asianera.biz www.asianera.biz
Product Categories: Tableware • Projects: The Ritz-Carlton, Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi, Sheraton New Delhi • Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano • Contact: Reha Tavil, Commercial Director, Reha.tavil@bonna.com.tr www.bonna.com.tr
Founded in 1995 with the belief that distinctive fine bone porcelain could be designed and produced in China – the place that originally invented and defined it centuries ago – Asianera is renowned for its east-meets-west style, with the brand’s constantly evolving collections acting as unique interpretations of influences from different cultures and nature. Rather than emulating traditional forms, the Shanghai-based company set its mind on developing a specific design style and product lines that reflect an Asian vernacular within a contemporary context, and as a result its hand-painted designs are characterised by artistry and elegance. Asianera’s products can be found throughout luxury hotels and restaurants around the world, while the manufacturer also partners with hoteliers, restaurateurs and F&B managers to custom-design both patterns and shapes to meet the requirements of specific projects.
Based at Kocaeli in Turkey, where Europe meets Asia, Bonna Premium Porcelain is a specialist in providing porcelain products to the Horeca market. Established in 1981, the hospitality supplier believes that gastronomy is a total experience and the value of presentation and ambience is as important as the food and service. With a team of 400 employees, Bonna’s aim is to craft striking table settings for busy dining environments, using its strategic location to deliver collections quickly across the globe. Joining a family of ten designs in the Envisio series, the brand’s organic Vago tableware eschews traditional round and square dining sets to embrace elements of casual dining. Created specifically for the contract sector, the porcelain range forms part of Bonna’s wider ivory white collection and is offered with various personalisation details, while its free form yet stackable plates marry amicably with vibrant interior decors.
Chef & Sommelier
David Mellor
Product Categories: Glassware, dinnerware, flatware • Projects: Andaz Vienna Am Belvedere, Hôtel de Berri Paris, Trump Turnberry • Trade Shows: Ambiente, EquipHotel, NRA Show • Contact: Chris Ward, EMEA Hotel Business Director, chris.ward@arc-intl.com www.chefsommelier.com
Collections: Pride, Chelsea, Provençal • Projects: Claridge’s, Ace Hotel, Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills • Trade Shows: Ambiente • Contact: James Lawless, Cutlery Accounts Manager, trade@davidmellordesign.co.uk www.davidmellordesign.co.uk
Chef & Sommelier is part of the Arc group, a tableware manufacturer with a history dating back more than 190 years. With production facilities on every continent, including in France, Russia, the US, UAE and China, the company engineers over five million pieces per day. Chef & Sommelier is an upscale and fine dining brand that reflects France’s gastronomic heritage, focusing on cutting-edge design and material performance with a blemish-free finish. The firm uses Krysta Extra Strong Crystal – a new glass material that is 30% stronger than sodalime glass – to guarantee increased scratch resistance, zero degrading after up to 2,000 industrial wash cycles and perfect clarity. The innovative material also promises up to 60% less breakages when compared with standard crystalline. Targeted at luxury restaurants and bars, the firm’s barware and flatware helps hotels express their creativity and awaken guests’ senses.
Over 60 years, David Mellor has become a byword for elegant modern design. Established in 1953 by British designer David Mellor, the eponymous manufacturer supplies modern cutlery to luxury hotels and restaurants across the globe, and is well-known for the purity of its design, attention to detail and high quality of manufacture. Each of David Mellor’s cutlery ranges is clearly defined, allowing them to cater for a whole variety of hospitality clients, from global hotel chains to smaller design-led restaurants. Producing its goods from a factory near Sheffield – the historic centre for cutlery manufacture – the company believes its duty is to build on this inheritance of traditional craftsmanship while utilising evolving new technologies. Produced in stainless steel, silver plate or sterling silver to special order, the brand’s unique cutlery designs can be supplied with special finishes and markings or tailored to client’s specifications.
HEAD OF THE TABLE
Elia International
Furstenberg
Product Categories: Cutlery, chinaware, barware • Trade Shows: Ambiente, Hotel, Restaurant & Catering Show, Exclusively Housewares • Contact: Adam Walker, Sales Manager, adam@elia.co.uk www.elia.co.uk
Product Categories: Tableware • Projects: The St. Regis Amman, Hôtel & Restaurant Lalique, Mandarin Oriental Paris • Trade Shows: Maison & Objet, Salone del Mobile • Contact: Florian Marquardt, Director International Sales, f.marquardt@fuerstenberg-porzellan.com www.fuerstenberg-porzellan.com
With a principal focus on product development, Elia offers innovative yet highly functional products from striking cutlery and bone china to lead-free crystal glassware, stylish barware and beverageware items – each luxurious piece is crafted without compromising on durability. Based in London, the manufacturer works in-house and in collaboration with internationally renowned designers to generate original ideas that help evolve its product collections. Elia supplies boutique hotels around the world, equipping a broad variety of venues including all-day dining spaces and high-end brasseries, while for domestic clients in the hotel, restaurant and hospitality industry, the brand’s portfolio is available through a national network of catering wholesalers. Its new 18-piece Glacier range is classical yet contemporary, the cutlery’s generously curved simple design making it suitable for any modern table setting.
Founded in 1747, Porzellanmanufaktur Fürstenberg is Germany’s second oldest porcelain manufacturer. The company has produced fine porcelain in southern Lower Saxony, Germany, for almost 270 years, with the majority of its manufacturing done by hand, meaning every cup passes through 100 hands. The use of traditional craftsmanship enables Fürstenberg to create small intricacies such as double-walled vessels and paper-thin inner and outer walls, while the porcelain it designs also reflects the time in which it is created – the spirit, attitude of life and aesthetics, as well as the manual and technical possibilities. Amongst its tableware, giftware and individual designer pieces is Fleun, a collection developed in collaboration with Swiss designer Alfredo Häberli that combines deeply rooted traditions with a contemporary innovative spirit, enabling it to adapt to a variety of modern dining environments.
Goodfellow & Goodfellow
John Jenkins
Product Categories: Tableware, buffetware, chef equipment • Projects: The Goring Hotel, Gleneagles, The Grove Hotel • Contact: Valda Goodfellow, Managing Director, Valda.Goodfellow@goodf.co.uk www.goodf.co.uk
Product Categories: Glassware, barware • Projects: Rosewood London, Hôtel de Crillon Paris, Firmdale Hotels • Trade Shows: Forty One Madison, NY Now, AmericasMart Atlanta • Contact: Harry Jenkins, General Manager, harry.jenkins@johnjenkins.co.uk www.johnjenkins.co.uk
The brainchild of husband-and-wife duo Paul and Valda Goodfellow, this creative design and distribution company provides innovative, stylish and functional solutions for hotels, restaurants and contract caterers around the world. The distributor’s website gives those working in the industry a variety of ideas, advice and guidance, while its Concept Design team in London – which offers a hands-on service for both newbuild and refurbishment projects – collaborates with chefs, designers, restaurant owners and F&B managers to supply branded tableware, kitchen equipment and chef’s clothing to establishments across the UK, Europe, the Middle East and Asia. Goodfellow & Goodfellow works with all sizes of venue or catering project, delivering anything from an individual plate to a complete restaurant concept, while the British firm also collaborates with a variety of craft producers to commission bespoke tableware products.
John Jenkins specialises in supplying the hospitality industry with handmade glassware for the table and bar. Founded in London in 1901, the company is now based in a rural setting to the south west of the capital, where its in-house design department is able to develop exclusive solutions for clients around the world. John Jenkins also has a showroom at Forty One Madison in New York, and the US market is served by its distribution centre in New Jersey. Its glassware can be found at luxury hotels and restaurants in the UK, as well as China, Hong Kong and Singapore in Asia, Saudi Arabia and Dubai in the Middle East, and the US and the Caribbean in the Americas. Responding to a demand for more specialised glasses, the group’s William Yeoward Crystal brand supplies to the likes of Rosewood, Mandarin Oriental, RitzCarlton and Four Seasons, with the Atlantic and Bella collections proving particularly popular.
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LSA International
Nikko
Collections: Serve, Ivalo, Gio • Projects: Raffles Europejski Warsaw, Párisi Udvar Hotel Budapest, Bulgari Resort Dubai • Trade Shows: Host Milano, Ambiente, Hotelex • Contact: Claudia Caldarola, Head of Horeca, claudia.caldarola@lsa-international.com www.lsa-international.com
Product Categories: Tableware, buffetware, chef equipment • Projects: Bellagio Las Vegas, Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah, Burj Al Arab • Trade Shows: Host Milano, Hofex, NRA Show • Contact: Hiroto Nitta, General Manager, table@nikko-company.co.jp www.nikkoceramics.com
LSA International is a contemporary design brand specialising in handmade glass. Established in London in the 1960s, the company collaborates with interior designers, stylists, restaurateurs, sommeliers and mixologists to supply decorative accessories, tableware and barware. Combining a deep understanding of the qualities of raw materials and a unique affinity with artisan dexterity, LSA transforms designs into finished products that capture the essence of simplicity in their form and function. Over 50 years’ experience in the hospitality market has earned the brand recognition with many of the world’s luxury hotels, restaurants and resorts, including the likes of Raffles Hotels and Bulgari Resorts, where it has delivered statement pieces alongside original, contemporary lines including Rum – a collection comprising mouth-blown glasses featuring thick, conical stems and rounded bowls that enhance the aroma of the spirit.
Committed to innovation, Japanese firm Nikko is continuously introducing new materials, techniques and concepts to its collections. The Kanazawabased manufacturer, founded in 1908, utilises around 50% bone ash when producing its fine bone china, creating strong and luminous dinnerware with a unique whiteness. Nikko’s designs are all made under one roof in Japan, where everything from mixing ingredients to firing and shipping is controlled meticulously. The factory also delivers high-quality decal techniques and boasts a number of highly skilled painters for handpainted products. Currently exporting to 30 countries, where its tableware is distributed to luxury clients throughout the hospitality sector, Nikko’s aim is for its fine bone china ranges to continue to be valued for its whiteness, unique shapes and durability; attributes that enhance the presentation of food to create more immersive dining experiences.
Nude
Peetal New York
Product Categories: Glassware • Projects: Maze by Gordon Ramsay, Soho House, The Ritz London • Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano, Maison & Objet • Contact: Doğan Dündar, Global Horeca Sales Manager, DDUNDAR@sisecam.com www.nudeglass.com
Product Categories: Serveware, tabletop accessories • Projects: Marriott Dubai Hotels, The Venetian Las Vegas • Trade Shows: NY Now, High Point Market • Contact: Reema Kohli, Owner, reema@peetalnewyork.com www.peetalnewyork.com
Established in 1935 by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk – former President of Turkey – the Şişecam Group has since created its own contemporary design brand, Nude, dedicated to producing glassware for modern living. With an ethos of ‘Simple is Beautiful’, the Istanbul-based firm benefits from more than 85 years of tradition and expertise, marrying form with function through crafted decorative objects, statement tableware and softly shaped lighting. Designed by a worldwide selection of artists and designers, Nude’s portfolio of handmade glassware is formed entirely from pure crystalline glass, be the pieces blown, pressed or press-blown. The key feature of lead-free crystal glass is that the minerals it contains strengthen the material, making it possible to produce highly durable yet refined and gossamerthin glassware that delivers clarity and resonance to bring out the full colours and textures of wine, champagne and liquors.
Founded by Reema Kohli, a British-born Wall Street banker-turnedproduct designer based in New York, Peetal is inspired by skilled craftsmen in India, who handmake brass bowls and other décor accents using ancient techniques of sand casting, etching and hammering. The name Peetal itself, translating to brass in Hindi, is an ancient alloy made from a combination of copper and zinc, which the manufacturer fuses together with a variety of materials such as aluminium, stainless steel and semi-precious stones to create a collection of decorative yet utilitarian tableware, with part of the profits given back to the artisans who produce each piece. Taking cues from the elegance of the Lotus Flower, the Lotus collection features a sparkling gold flower cast out of brass, as well as faceted brass stems that illustrate the stem of the plant and real lotus leaves, which were hand-picked to create the fine textures on the metal.
HEAD OF THE TABLE
Pordamsa
Raynaud
Product Categories: Tableware, cutlery • Projects: Rosewood Hong Kong, Four Seasons Philadelphia, W Ibiza • Trade Shows: Host Milano, Ambiente, Sirha • Contact: Gerard Crous, Sales Manager, gcrous@pordamsa.org www.pordamsa.com
Product Categories: Dinnerware • Projects: Four Seasons Hotel George V, The St. Regis Hong Kong, Pierre Gagnaire Paris • Trade Shows: Salone Del Mobile, Maison & Objet, Sirha • Contact: Isabelle Ferrer, Sales Director Hospitality and Business Gifts, i.ferrer@ercuis-raynaud.com www.raynaud.fr
Combining inspiration, creativity and technique, Pordamsa aims to enrich the dining experience at the table. Founded in 1975 in La Bisbal d’Empordà, close to the Catalan city of Girona, the family-run business has a history of reinvention, which has allowed it to keep up with changing trends in the global market. With a main focus of adding value to the presentation of food, the porcelain manufacturer has evolved its pieces over the last forty years, introducing new techniques and materials such as glass and wood. One of its latest organic tableware collections, Atica, combines style and functionality while offering chefs the possibility of exploring playful food presentations on its concave surfaces. Taking inspiration from Ancient Greece, the series is handcrafted in coloured glass paste and features a smooth feel with high scratch resistance, making it suitable for professional kitchens and high-flow environments where durability is key.
For over a century, French manufacturer Raynaud has created porcelain with poetic charm, elegance and generosity as governing principles. Since 1911, the firm has followed the ethos of ‘poetry as a guide, colour as a signature’, drawing inspiration from art, gastronomy, travel and history to create expressive pieces with narrative richness. Poetic vision guides are present at every stage of production, and coupled with meticulous quality standards. One of the latest additions to the Raynaud dinnerware family is Jean Cocteau, a series of plates, bowls and saucers that take cues from the work of the eponymous French poet, illustrator, playwright and film-maker. Offered in shades of blue, green, rose and noir, the Limoges porcelain range combines matte pastel backgrounds with subtle hues, while the plates depict mythological characters such as Orpheus, Eurydice, Proteus and Antinous – emblematic of Cocteau’s work.
Revol
Robert Welch Designs
Collections: Caractere, Pekoë, Swell • Projects: InterContinental Lyon Hotel Dieu, Hyatt Regency Algiers, Swissôtel Jakarta PIK Avenue • Trade Shows: Host Milano, Ambiente, Food & Hotel Asia • Contact: Louis Ribet, Sales Manager, louis.ribet@revol-porcelaine.fr www.revol1768.com
Collections: Radford, Drift, Kingham • Projects: Shangri-La Hotels, Jumeirah Beach, Raffles Europejski Warsaw • Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano, NRA Show • Contact: Sarah Egan, Head of Hospitality, segan@robertwelch.com www.robertwelch.com
Revol has been a manufacturer of professional kitchenware, tabletop and buffetware solutions since 1768. Based in the south of France, the ninth-generation family business challenges the trends of the industry with innovatively designed and high-performance porcelain collections dedicated to chefs and foodservice professionals. From its Basalt black ceramic clayware, finishes of Solstice and wood grains of Arborescence to the monobloc handles of Belle Cuisine, black cast-iron finish of Eclipse, and tones of the Equinoxe range – and not forgetting the Revolution Induction – the brand’s exclusive creations are all handmade by over 250 porcelain workers in a factory in Saint-Uze at the heart of Drôme. Revol is motivated by a single ambition – to provide luxury hotels and restaurants with unmatched quality and originality, helping chefs transform dining tables and elevate signature dishes for the pleasure of their guests.
Robert Welch Designs was founded in 1955 by Robert Welch, a graduate of the Royal College of Art, who pioneered the introduction of stainless steel and tableware to the UK. From his studio and workshop, Welch was driven to design highly functional, affordable products that possessed a timeless yet elegant beauty. He steadily gained a reputation for both his design and manufacture, leading to a stream of commissions from five-star hotels and luxury restaurants worldwide. Today, still based in Chipping Campden in the Cotswold Hills, the company is jointly run by Welch’s children, Alice and Rupert. For the last twenty years, the business has expanded to supply a host of retailers, hotels, restaurants, cruise lines and airlines with dining, kitchen and living collections, including the recently launched Drift Coffee series, the latest addition to its Drift hollowware range comprising bar and afternoon tea pieces.
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Rona
Safran Paris
Product Categories: Glassware • Projects: Marriott International, InterContinental Hotels & Resorts, Hilton International • Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano, NRA Show • Contact: Stepan Konicek, Sales Manager, konicek@rona.cz www.rona.sk
Product Categories: Tableware, buffetware, amenities • Projects: Cheval Blanc, Le Bristol Paris, Raffles Hotel Singapore • Trade Shows: Sirha • Contact: Denis Reichrath, CEO, dr@safranparis.com www.safranparis.com
Slovakian glassware manufacturer Rona was established by the Schreiber family in Lednické Rovne, a region where the production of glass traditionally flourished thanks to a combination of a forested landscape and the availability of silica sand and firewood clay. With a history dating back to 1892, the company is known for introducing technological improvements that have aided the development of the glassware industry. Rona was the first to launch the production of pressed glass back in 1893, while it also implemented pantograph decoration technology three years later. In 1956, the firm also became the first factory worldwide to implement the commercial production of handmade stemware using the pulled stem process, and in 2001 furthered this with the development of machine-made ‘blowblow technology’ pulled stemware, which together with laser treatment on the rims of glasses has taken production to a new level.
Born from a desire to deliver exclusive tableware and unique products to luxury hotels, Safran Paris focuses on creativity and the pursuit of aesthetic harmony. Founded in 1999, the brand manufactures its product lines in France, where its workshops champion high-quality craftsmanship and innovative design. Combining shapes, colours and materials, Safran Paris has one primary objective: to guarantee a strong visual effect and to create emotion across all areas of a hotel, from tableware to the buffet, suites and bar. The company supplies buffet solutions to luxury hotel brands such as Peninsula, Ritz-Carlton, Four Seasons, Sofitel, Groupe Lucien Barrière, Fairmont and Raffles, while it also develops tailor-made solutions for the biggest names in French gastronomy including Yannick Alleno, Eric Frechon, Emmanuel Renaut, Christian Le Squer, Sylvestre Wahid, Gaël Orieux, Eric Guerin, Fabrice Vulin and Jérôme Banctel.
Siom Orfèvres
Steelite International
Product Categories: Flatware, hollowware • Projects: Rosewood Hong Kong, Caesars Bluewaters Dubai, Bulgari Resort Dubai • Trade Shows: The Hotel Show Dubai, To The Table Europe, To The Table MEA • Contact: Antoine Baroud, Managing Partner, antoine.baroud@siomorfevres.com www.siomorfevres.com
Collections: Craft, Willow, Potters • Projects: Gaylord Rockies Resort Colorado, Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel London • Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano, NRA Show • Contact: Joshua Aitken, Marketing Co-ordinator, jaitken@steelite.com www.steelite.com
Established in the Hamra district of Beirut over 50 years ago, Siom Orfèvres is one of the largest producers of silverware in the Middle East. The manufacturer supplies high-quality stainless steel and silverware to five-star hotels and restaurants throughout the international hospitality sector – with clients including major industry players such as Marriott International, Kempinski, AccorHotels, Hilton, Jumeirah and Rosewood Hotels – as well as to the luxury retail market. Working closely with its clients to provide tailor-made solutions, Siom’s design department has the advantage of choosing from a product range made up of nearly 4,000 ISO 9001-certified items from flatware, hollowware and chafing dishes to trolleys, banqueting items and tableware. Siom Orfèvres also develops bespoke collections and concepts to meet the precise needs and specifications of hotels, restaurants and catering venues around the world.
Steelite International has a history of over a century on its current site, where it produces more than 500,000 tabletop and buffet pieces per week – 140,000 of which are cups. Founded in Stoke-on-Trent in 1983, the company has over 1,000 employees worldwide and distributes to 140 countries, supplying to luxury hotels and restaurants throughout the hospitality industry. Responding to its consumer feedback over the years, Steelite has developed a vast array of innovative collections in ceramic, metal, wood, glass and melamine, providing complete tabletop solutions for all dining environments. Continued reinvestment in the company is at the forefront of its growth strategy, helping to create an innovative approach to business, while it is as committed to UK manufacturing as it is to developing partnerships worldwide, mirroring its values while developing a deeper brand story and global position.
HEAD OF THE TABLE
Stölzle Lausitz
Tafelstern
Collections: Quatrophil, Experience, Power • Projects: Marriott International, AccorHotels, Starwood • Trade Shows: Ambiente, NRA Show, The Hotel Show Dubai • Contact: Jan Zschiesche, Export Manager, zschiesche@stoelzle-lausitz.de www.stoelzle-lausitz.com
Collections: Delight, Coffee Tasting, Playground • Trade Shows: Ambiente, Host Milano, NRA Show • Contact: Taner Selcik, Director International Sales, selcik.t@tafelstern.de www.tafelstern.com
The availability and quality of glass sand, wood, limestone and clay spearheaded the development of the first local glassworks in Lausitz over 570 years ago. Today, Stölzle Lausitz continues to export around 40 million glasses every year, with 400 employees producing, decorating and packing a comprehensive range of stem glasses, tumblers, decanters, carafes and gift items such as vases. Stölzle stands for innovation and quality, championing lead-free crystalline glass, high breakage and dishwasher resistance, as well as a positive price-to-quality ratio. The manufacturer is also one of a handful to have mastered the production of a one-piece stem and bowl, resulting in more durable pieces that mimic the features and elegance of mouth-blown glassware. The design of the Stölzle collections guarantees optimum performance, meaning consumers can appreciate each beverage in the right glass.
The creative porcelain collections from Tafelstern provide culinary directors with an eclectic foundation for the refined presentation of their gastronomic dishes. The elegant design of each piece ensures that the display of fine foods takes centre stage, while the innovative brand’s flexible modular system solution allows for a pick-and-mix approach across its collections. The Playground series, for example, comprises bowls in a selection of shades, shapes and patterns, including the Black Amber model; a piece of stoneware that features a sprinkling of gold metallic hints. Crafted from fine noble china, the coupe plates, pourers and bowls create subtle accents against dark backgrounds and can be coupled with the Eatery series – a minimalist range featuring Gaiwan and Ramen bowls that provide alternatives to classic plates – as well as the new industrial-style Delight cups and black clay Stella plates.
Toyo-Sasaki
William Edwards
Product Categories: Tableware, glassware, tabletop • Projects: Burj Al Arab Jumeirah, Grand Lisboa, Wynn Palace • Trade Shows: Ambiente, Hofex, The Hotel Show Dubai • Contact: Fumiya Ueno, Sales, fumiya_ueno@toyo.sasaki.co.jp www.toyo.sasaki.co.jp
Product Categories: Tableware, chinaware • Projects: Atlantis The Palm, Caprice Holdings, British Airways • Trade Shows: To The Table • Contact: William Edwards, Managing Director, william@williamedwards.co.uk www.williamedwards.co.uk
Toyo-Sasaki is one of the oldest glassware manufacturers in Japan, with more than 110 years’ history to its name. Amongst its 470-strong workforce, hundreds of craftsmen produce the brand’s collections in a factory just outside of Tokyo, combining handmade techniques with machine production under one roof. The result is glassware defined by simplicity and technical refinement; Toyo-Sasaki’s designs are featherweight yet functional and durable, bringing subtle elegance to modern tabletop settings. One of its latest additions, Fino, is a stackable collection that uses platinum Hard Strong tempered glass across its surface to achieve maximum durability. Intended for use across a whole variety of dining scenes, the elegant and light-in-the-hand glass features a thin and smooth top, as well as a large but simple mouth design, allowing users to arrange and pour drinks comfortably, as well as wash it with ease.
Based in Stoke-on-Trent, William Edwards supplies fine bone china to the hospitality sector worldwide. With an in-house design department and printing facilities, as well as factory in Korea, the British manufacturer produces collections for all areas of hotel establishments from royal suites to banqueting venues, highlighting the whiteness and durability of china throughout signature collections like Snipe Frost, Burnished Platinum and Sultan’s Garden. The firm’s recent hotel projects include Atlantis The Palm in Dubai, where it designed a bespoke all-day dining range for the refurbished Plato’s coffee and tea lounge. Led by newly appointed Global Design Manager Tracy Hollins, the studio took inspiration from the vaulted ceilings and geometric patterning within of the space, incorporating gold mica decorations into the china’s elegant shapes to enhance the overall aesthetic while retaining a focus on function.
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HEAD OF THE TABLE
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WMF Professional
WNK
Product Categories: Cutlery, hollowware, glassware • Projects: Swissôtel Jakarta PIK Avenue, Mövenpick Hotel Stuttgart, The St. Regis Amman • Trade Shows: Internorga, NRA Show, Host Milano • Contact: Felix M. Brunet, Export Manager, felix.brunet@wmf-professional.de www.wmf-professional.com
Collections: Cutlery, buffetware, tabletop • Projects: Hyatt Regency Seragaki Island Okinawa, Rosewood Hong Kong, InterContinental Jakarta Pondok Indah • Trade Shows: Ambiente, Hotelex Shanghai, Hofex Hong Kong • Contact: info@wnk-hk.com www.wnk-hk.com
Part of the proHeq group based in southern Germany’s Birkenfeld region, WMF Professional is a supplier of professional catering and hotel equipment. The main focus of the brand is its innovative, high-quality craftsmanship and stylish solutions for preparing and serving food and beverages. From a diverse range of cutlery, glassware, serving utensils and table decorations to flexible modular systems for buffets, WMF’s product range covers the complete tabletop requirements of all dining environments, and has been supplied to luxury hotel brands such as Mövenpick and St. Regis. Joining French consortium Groupe SEB in 2016, the company has expanded to offer a range of services in the furnishing of living areas, kitchens and bathrooms, from cutlery to glassware. In addition, it has recently launched the integrated One-Stop-Shop concept, in which all processes relating to planning, procurement, ordering and service come from a single source.
Founded in 1955, WNK has over 60 years of manufacturing experience in silverware and tableware. Having grown to become an international supplier in the foodservice industry, distributing products worldwide via an extensive support network, the Hong Kong-headquartered company marries a unique blend of family business traditions with use of the latest production methods at its two modern factories – spanning 20,000m2 of production space and employing 800 dedicated staff. Promising both caterers and end users a better experience in buffet service, WNK’s induction chafing dishes range is compatible with burners, electric heaters and induction cookers. With reliability at their core, the dishes feature a stable and durable hinge design that allows the lid to be placed in different stationary positions to minimise heat loss, while its innovative water-return system – built into the edge of the lid – prevents any drips on food.
Zieher
Zwiesel Kristallglass
Product Categories: Tableware, buffet systems, glassware • Projects: Rosewood Hong Kong, InterContinental Singapore, W Dubai – The Palm • Trade Shows: Ambiente, Equiphotel, Food & Hotel Asia • Contact: Steven Röppnack, Head of Sales, s.roeppnack@zieher.com www.zieher.com
Product Categories: Glassware • Projects: InterContinental London Park Lane, Galvin at Windows - Hilton Park Lane, The Ritz London • Trade Shows: Ambiente, EquipHotel, Host Milano • Contact: Ian Bailey, Director, sales@aditrading.com www.zwiesel-kristallglas.com
Starting life as an international trading firm in 1986, the company has since become a manufacturer and creator of luxury design products, with founders Christa and Manfred Zieher releasing the first collection of items designed by Zieher in 2006. Fast forward to 2010 and the brand developed Skyline, the first buffet system with an extremely high grade of flexibility, which initiated the trend towards such equipment. Today, Zieher is active in 90 countries and stands for innovative design in both the tabletop and buffet markets, with worldwide clients including fivestar hotels and restaurants, as well as the luxury retail market and professional chefs looking to create innovative concepts. The firm’s products are crafted using a number of materials such as glass, stainless steel, slate and porcelain; the combination of these forge high-quality modern tableware and buffet systems that marry functionality and style.
Zwiesel Kristallglas has championed high-quality crystal products, innovation and sustainability in equal measure for over 145 years. Founded in 1872, the German company offers exclusive ranges for tabletop and bar spaces, as well as decorative accessories for interiors. The group is also home to two design-led brands: Zwiesel 1872, heralding craftsmanship through handmade glassware collections that draw on the knowledge of the company’s skilled workforce; and Schott Zwiesel, a driver of timeless yet modern design that partners with luxury hotels and restaurants worldwide, delivering an extensive range of wine and drinking glasses. Developed in collaboration with bartender and author Charles Schumann, Zwiesel 1872’s latest collection, the nine-piece Marlène – Hommage aux Femmes series, combines refinement with high functionality, expressing an appreciation for femininity by balancing lightness and elegance.
ADVERTISING INDEX
Alto Shaam
Raynaud Ercuis
033
Asianera 012
Robert Welch
140
Bonna 031
Rona 024
Cognac Frapin
118
97
Dometic 051
Rosemary Water
095
Safran Paris
049
Elia
087
Sico 085
Gemini 1765
021
Siom 043
Goodfellows 128
Steelite 004-005
Gruppo Cimbali
067
Stรถlzle 057
Iron & Fire
023
Tafelstern 065
Jing Tea
103
Tiger 045
John Jenkins
047
To The Table - Europe
076
Lady & Butler
040
To The Table - MEA
127
LSA 010-011 Maison Objet
122
Toyo Sasaki
090
William Edwards
139
008-009
WMF 089
015
WNK 108
Nude 019
Zieher 039
Mogogo Nikko Company
Perrier Jouet
006-007
Zwiesel Kristallglas
002
Pordamsa 016
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THE WASHING UP
Photography: © Philippe Fitte
Keys to the Cellar
Back to its best after a four-year renovations, the iconic Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo is rightly lauded for its outstanding F&B offering, with the Michelin-starred delights of Le Louis XV-Alain Ducasse and Le Grill pairing nicely with new Mediterranean brasserie Ômer and glamorous cocktail den Le Bar Américain. But the property’s secret weapon actually lies far beneath
These labyrinthine wine cellars play a key role underpinning the revamped F&B offering at Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo.
guests’ feet: Les Caves de l’Hôtel de Paris. Reputedly the world’s largest hotel wine cellar, this remarkable maze of galleries was laboriously hewn out of the rock by a 100-strong team in the 1870s; it spans 1.5km2 and holds around 450,000 bottles, including countless sought-after rarities from Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne. Today, the sprawling underground complex supplies an array of establishments overseen by Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mers, the casino and hotel operator owned by the state of Monaco. Alas, the cellars are not generally open to the public, although they can be hired out for special events, and connoisseurs can still partake in a piece of oneological history by treating themselves to a bottle or two in the hotel’s restaurants and bars. Amid all the excitement about Hotel de Paris’ recent transformation, it is a sobering thought to reflect that these well-stocked cellars, which date back to the late 19th century, remain key to its success.
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DESIGNED TO LAST A LIFETIME
For more information or samples contact us. Email: hospitality@robertwelch.com Telephone: +44 (0) 1386 840880
robertwelch.com/hospitality
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