Supper - Issue 19

HOTEL FOOD & DRINK

HOTEL CHADSTONE – MELBOURNE • HEMANT OBEROI • GREAT SCOTLAND YARD – LONDON

CONTENTS ISSUE 19 037

STARTERS

044

Hélène Darroze at The Connaught

037

Bombay Brasserie

038

MoMosita

040

Ella Mia

042

The Connaught London © Sharyn Cairns

050

Taj Cape Town

MoMo’s Kuala Lumpur

St. Martins Lane London

© Jérôme Galland

058

MAIN COURSES Pastore

044

Great Scotland Yard

050

Kultá Kitchen & Bar

058

Hotel Chadstone Melbourne

London

Lapland Hotels Bulevardi Helsinki

W 064 Muscat

Sumosan

Six Senses Residences Courchevel

070

Dóttir 077 Kex Hotel Portland

003

CONTENTS ISSUE 19 SERVICE

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A Taste of Destiny

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Californian Roots

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With 45 years in hotel F&B under his belt, Hemant Oberoi has seen it all. The Indian chef sits down with Supper to talk inspiration, destiny and overcoming tragedy.

After more than 20 years within the hospitality industry, acclaimed chef and restaurateur John Fraser returns to his culinary homeland.

DINING The Upper Crust © Liz Clayman

020

080

The reinvention of French pastry and the simultaneous reintroduction of classic recipes are upending Paris’ patisserie scene.

SIPPING

080

Canary Crush

090

Stepping out of the shadow of Europe’s top vineyards, the quality and rarity of Canary Island wines is increasingly becoming an advantage for hotels looking for a point of difference.

© Lou Groseiller

Maximising the Opportunity in the US Hotel Market

106

In the second installment of a new series of features, Supper delves into a research report from Nielsen CGA to offer insight into the dining and imbibing behaviour of the hotel guest.

REGULARS Entrée 013

Events 109

Appetisers 017

Spotlight 112

Signatures

Petits Fours

087

Cocktails 097 Drinks 101

004

MARKET INSIGHT

125

Washing-Up 146

Sometimes, a personal touch is needed.

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ENTRÉE

ON THE COVER Pastore at Hotel Chadstone, Melbourne © Kristoffer Paulsen

At Your Server

I

n the 30 years since Tim Berners-Lee invented the World Wide

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The information age has undoubtedly opened up a world

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Supper’s former Assistant Editor Richard Frost is now

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website and this latest issue. In the meantime, Supper is

passion for the industry we serve.

served.

With that in mind, we’re delighted to announce that suppermag.com is now live, designed to reflect the ethos and aesthetic of the magazine and featuring bespoke, curated content. On there you’ll find interviews with some of the world’s leading chefs, from Heston Blumenthal and Tom Kerridge to Nuno Mendes and Wolfgang Puck – all of whom have featured on these very pages – as well as reviews of the hottest new hotel bar and restaurant openings. However suppermag.com isn’t just an online replica of the magazine; it features exclusive Q&As, in-depth trend reports and

Catherine Martin • Managing Editor

013

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APPETISERS

D

ark kitchens, dinnertainment and hyper-

University Arms in Cambridge recently launched

seasonality are just some of the trends

its Rubbish Cooks supper club, inviting diners to

set to take the hospitality sector by storm

enjoy a three-course meal made from ingredients

according to forecasters, operators and investors

that are usually thrown away. As Charles Banks,

in attendance at this year’s Global Restaurant

co-founder of The Food People explained, people

Investment Forum (GRIF).

are constantly evolving their eating habits and

Delegates from over 43 countries descended on

embracing plant powered foods like faux fish,

the Dutch capital to network, discover the latest

mylks and vegan alternatives. They are also

dining concepts and hear an impressive array of

dining in establishments that support local

speakers share their thoughts on the growing

growers and producers. “At first it was a tick-

importance of sustainability, authentic dining

box exercise,” noted Michael Webb, Co-Founder

and disruptive delivery services.

of property consultancy agency Distrkt. “But

Unlike many other global service industries,

it’s now fundamental, and is at the heart of so

the restaurant sector continues to grow,

many business models; those who don’t consider

particularly in the fast-casual category, with

sustainability will get left behind.”

revenues estimated to reach US$17 billion by

Of equal importance to those in attendance at

Evolve and Disrupt In February, the hospitality industry’s leading figures descended on The Global Restaurant Forum to explore the trends set to shape the future of F&B.

2024 in Europe alone, according to JLL’s 2020

GRIF was the continued appetite for experience-

Food & Trends Report. While its growth is

led dining and the role technology is expected to

encouraging, it also presents a challenge for

play in inspiring genuine moments of connection.

those catering to the constantly evolving tastes

Acclaimed chef Gaggan Anand spoke earnestly

of consumers. Speaking at GRIF, Emma Banks,

about food as an act of love and how the rising

Vice President of F&B Strategy & Development

popularity of open kitchens has given guests the

for EMEA at Hilton, expressed the need to review

opportunity to immerse themselves in the chef’s

strategies at all times in order to keep up with

journey. Yet, while many agreed that a human

change, while Henry Mason, Managing Director

touch remains pivotal to the customer experience,

at TrendWatching observed that trends often

the boom in delivery options – Deliveroo raised

emerge “when innovators look at people’s basic

US$575 million in a recent round of funding –

wants and needs in novel ways”.

and the proliferation of off-site premises (dark

One theme that dominated discussions during the conference was the importance of

kitchens), pose a direct challenge to operators seeking to launch physical restaurant spaces.

sustainability and the increasing number of

But, for those concerned about the future of

consumers aligning themselves with brands

the industry, leading restaurateur Jeremy King

championing green credentials. Market insight

OBE was on-hand to offer some final words

agency Mintel found that in 2018, British

of encouragement. “Ultimately, you should

consumers spent £8.2 billion on ethical food

build a restaurant that you would want to go to

and drink, bolstering reports that conscious

yourself,” he commented. “If you follow your

consumerism is on the rise. Tapping into this

heart, you have chance.”

trend, restaurants such as Parker’s Tavern at

017

T

he rise of the conscious consumer,

someone that lives locally and wants to champion

exemplified by increasing awareness of

their culinary heritage. In both scenarios the

sustainability-led diets and plastic-free

importance of ‘eating local’ not only benefits

principles, has been well documented in the

independent food heroes but also encourages us

media over the last 12 months. So, it should

to eat seasonal produce that has not undertaken a

come as no great surprise that a reported 41%

long journey to get to our plate, which is a much

of British people are said to be interested in

more sustainable way to eat,” explains Jordan

consuming local products either at home or in

Kiziuk, Director of Global Upscale Restaurants &

restaurants. Research conducted by foodservice

Bars at Hotel Indigo.

and hospitality data analysts CHD Expert also

An example of the group’s commitment

found that many of those surveyed are keen to

to eco-friendly dining is Serra, a restaurant

adopt a ‘Locavore’ mindset as a means to better

centred around the ethos that good food can

understand the provenance of the food on their

have a positive impact on people and the planet.

plate, signalling a further shift towards more

Located within Indigo’s new Brussels property,

ethical health and lifestyle choices as we enter

the concept draws upon its proximity to the city’s

into the next decade.

botanical gardens, with food sourced from within

The ‘Locavore’ Mindset As consumers look to adopt more sustainable habits, Hotel Indigo is increasingly championing hyperlocality within its F&B concepts.

Having gained prominence in recent years, most

100 miles of the hotel. Meanwhile, in the UK,

noticeably in the United States, the term Locavore

many of Hotel Indigo’s regional offerings, such

relates to those who focus on eating foods that are

as The Woodsman in York, focus on field-to-fork

made with locally grown ingredients or produce

dining to create menus that promote the highest

that has been sourced from farms within close

standards of husbandry with specialties including

proximity. In the hospitality sphere, a number of

Hebridean lamb, British deer and wild boar.

hotel groups are seeking to spotlight this way of

Further cementing its mission to curate hotels

thinking in order to support the neighbourhoods

around the culture of a city while also showcasing

they inhabit and the communities they serve,

these social destinations as platforms for the

whilst offering discerning travellers and locals

best local cuisine, the Daisy Tasker in Dundee, a

alike, an authentic dining experience. In turn,

rustic Scottish bistro, serves fresh catches from

this approach enables establishments to foster

the adjacent North Sea with dishes like Arbroath

closer ties with regional producers and growers

smokie – a type of haddock chowder, while

and ensure that quality and seasonal produce is

Mamucium in Manchester delivers reinvented

at the heart of their offering.

Northern classics using ingredients from the

Hotel Indigo, the boutique brand from IHG, is

“Guests in our hotels and on the high street

having launched six new restaurants that boast

are wanting more than great tasting and good

menus inspired by hyper-locality. “The Locavore

looking food,” concludes Kiziuk. “It needs to

trend is squarely positioned to diners wanting to

have a story and more than that, it needs to be

eat like a local – they could be a food tourist going

sustainable.”

to an area to sample local culinary highlights or

018

counties of Lancashire and Cumbria.

one of the main proponents of this movement

Océan bleu collection

NEW SHOWROOM DAUM & HAVILAND 41 Madison Avenue, 6th Floor, New York, NY 10010

A Taste of Destiny With 45 years in hotel F&B under his belt, Hemant Oberoi has seen it all. The Indian chef sits down with Supper to talk inspiration, destiny and overcoming tragedy.

Words: Agnish Ray

I

ndian chef Hemant Oberoi believes in destiny.

delighted in his culinary skills, as have showbiz

It was destiny that made him ditch the idea

names such as Brad Pitt and Naomi Campbell.

of medical school as he stood before a future

“This was my last option in life,” he laughs, as

as a doctor. It was destiny that struck him

we sit in the private dining room of the Mumbai

with high fever the day of his military service

restaurant he opened in 2017. It is one of the

trials, scrapping any hopes of an army life.

fruits of OB Hospitalities, a venture he launched

And as he embarked on a hotel management

after departing his 42-year tenure at Taj Hotels.

career, landing a job at one of India’s most

The eponymously named Hemant Oberoi

prestigious five-star properties, it was perhaps

Restaurant is located in Bandra Kurla Complex,

destiny that plunged him into its food and

a business district of Mumbai. Corporations

beverage wing.

like CitiBank, Standard Chartered and ONGC,

Many are thankful for the path that Oberoi ended up on. Over a 45-year career, he has

plus a number of foreign consulates, are his neighbours, as well as his regular customers.

wined and dined the who’s who of India’s elite,

Smartly clad waiters donning white gloves

from business tycoons like the Ambanis and the

float around the mahogany space, crafted

Mittals to Bollywood stars like Amitabh Bachchan

by coveted Mumbai-based interior designer

and Rani Mukerji. Politicians spanning the

Ashiesh Shah, which is filled with velvet and

spectrum – from the Obamas and the Clintons

leather seating, while satin drapes shield the

to George W. Bush and Narendra Modi – have

hot, direct sunlight from the streets outside. The

SERVICE

SERVICE

Martabaan’s menu features twists on traditional Indian cooking; think dabba gosht-inspired chicken and pressure-cooked biryani

menu’s inspirations stretch from Japan to Peru, where the approaches to raw cooking fascinate Oberoi. Star dishes include the brie and truffle soufflé, and lamb shank slow cooked with amarillo chillies. At lunchtime, local business crowds tuck into a golden version of the multitiered steel tiffin box so widely used in India.

Historically, the fine dining scene in Mumbai has largely been the stronghold of five-star hotels. The likes of Taj, Four

“Your basics have to be strong, then you can do anything in the world. If you forget your roots, one day your roots will forget you.”

where martabaans are made,” he continues. “I found out that these pieces actually came from Burma, where they used a special clay to make them. In the 16th century the pots started to make their way to China, Japan, India and the Middle East.”

In his Abu Dhabi restaurant, Oberoi pays tribute to these time-honoured vessels - using them to serve meat and vegetables cooked in pickled tomatoes and chillies, which add a rich

Seasons, Marriott and St. Regis compete for

and distinctive flavour to the dish. The menu

the highest reputation on the food scene - and

features several such twists on traditional

rely on top chefs like Oberoi to do so. It is a

Indian cooking, not least the chicken in a can.

relatively recent development that high-end

Inspired by dabba gosht, or the biryani which is

restaurateurs have started setting up standalone

pressure-cooked inside an individual glass jar,

establishments of their own, catering to equally

tucking into the latter reveals delightful layers

affluent, demanding and food-savvy audiences

of rice, meat and spice.

Born in Firozpur, a city in Punjab near India’s

- and therefore providing a different kind of

border with Pakistan, Oberoi was raised on

competition for the hotel industry.

Oberoi has by no means abandoned hotels

simple, local staples like butter chicken, dal

completely - his latest restaurant, Martabaan,

makhani (creamy black lentils), matar paneer

opened at the Emirates Palace Hotel in Abu Dhabi

(cottage cheese with peas) and chole (spiced

last summer. This multi-billion-dollar property

chickpeas). The memories of his grandmother’s

- the third most expensive hotel ever built -

cooking remain with him today, but Oberoi

is currently undergoing a major management

knew early on that he wanted to move beyond

shift, from Kempinski to Mandarin Oriental,

Meanwhile, with one of the highest GDP per

the ubiquity of north Indian food, and delve

since the latter kicked off its two-year takeover

capita in the world, the UAE offers an attractive

deeper into the diversity of the country’s

plan at the start of 2020. The Hong Kong-based

playing field for new businesses like Oberoi’s.

culinary traditions – from Bengal and Bihar to

hotel group says their phased renovation will

It is doubtless challenging, however, to stand

see significant changes to rooms and amenities

out among the abundance of Indian food in the

Despite sharing its distinctive surname, the

as well as new food and beverage facilities.

UAE, where Indians make up over 27% of the

chef is not actually related to the Oberoi family

Gujarat and Goa.

“Martabaan had been on my mind for a

total population. Oberoi feels that too many

whose hotel group operates 12 luxury properties

very long time,” the chef tells me. While his

Indian establishments out there opt for pomp

in India and a further 10 around the world. In

Mumbai restaurant brings global flavours to

and drama - think molecular, foam and liquid

fact, a young Hemant even turned down a job

India, Martabaan takes Indian cuisine to the

nitrogen - over perfecting the simple things.

offer at Oberoi Hotel Group, when told he would

world - and Abu Dhabi, the most oil-rich of

“Your basics have to be strong,” he says. “Then

have to drop his own surname in order to avoid

the Emirates, seemed a smart choice to start

you can do anything in the world – if you forget

confusion with the hotel’s brand.

up a flashy new operation. Back home, India’s

your roots, one day your roots will forget you.”

Opting for Taj instead, where his name could

economic slowdown and increasing political

He named Martabaan after a clay jar used in

be recognised, he spent the next 42 years

tensions have significantly curbed purchasing

India for pickling - as was often done in his

solidifying the hotel’s reputation as a forerunner

power, which could threaten luxury spending.

own family. “I went to Khurja, in Uttar Pradesh,

of high-end gastronomy, bringing the flavours

023

SERVICE

“I take pride in wearing my jacket. I still cook on the range; to create is still my passion.”

Martabaan has been envisaged as a contemporary classic Indian dining destination

of the world to Mumbai. He masterminded all its

to safety. To this day, survivors thank Oberoi

restaurant brands, from Wasabi and Zodiac Grill

and his team for having helped save their lives

to Shamiana and Masala Craft; and for around

that night.

20 years, he directed the food and beverage offer for all Taj’s 27 luxury properties.

Their hiding place was The Chambers, an exclusive members bar inside The Taj Mahal

But destiny was to take an unexpected and

Palace, and one of its least accessible areas.

tragic turn for Oberoi on 26 November 2008,

Oberoi spent his time in there doing what he

when The Taj Mahal Palace was targeted as

does best - looking after his guests. Whether

part of a series of coordinated terrorist attacks

that meant keeping them fed, watered and calm

across Mumbai. It was just another night of

during some of the most frightening hours of

crisp tablecloths and polished silver when

their lives, or nursing their bleeding injuries.

four armed attackers entered Oberoi’s place

Today, airport-like security operates at

of work and opened fire. Over 160 people were

the entrance of the hotel - and anyone from

killed during the attacks - around 30 of them

Mumbai’s busy social scene can tell you that the

at The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. For seven or

city has simply not been the same since 26/11.

eight harrowing hours that night, Oberoi and

So it was not without some trepidation that

his team - familiar with the ins and outs of

Oberoi responded when he was first approached

the sprawling 2.3-acre premises - kept guests

by Australian film director Anthony Maras about

hidden from attackers in a secure part of the

the idea of a new film telling the story of what

hotel, eventually evacuating as many as possible

he went through that night.

© Karim Hesham

024

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SERVICE

Released in the UK last September, Hotel

Three weeks after the attacks, Taj’s

Mumbai stars Anupam Kher as Oberoi and Dev

restaurants were fully open for business again,

Patel as one of his waiting staff, and presents

but it marked the start of a new chapter for

an account of the night’s unfoldings. Although

Oberoi. “It was not written in destiny for us

Kher did not meet the chef as part of the

to die that night,” he reflects on the incident,

preparations, he gives an uncanny portrayal

which gave him a new perspective on life,

of his calm and collected demeanour. “Guest

though instead of slowing down where others

is God,” the character repeats to his staff in

might, he has moved forward in new and

the film - a mantra that Oberoi himself uttered

exciting directions. “I take pride in wearing my

many times during his time at Taj.

jacket. I still cook on the range; to create is still

The film has received mixed reviews - but

While busy running his hospitality business

shown by the Taj staff that night. “I didn’t

and finishing his autobiography – entitled My

want them to make me a hero,” Oberoi tells

Spice Journey – Oberoi is also preparing to open

me. “There were a lot of other people involved

two more restaurants this year. “I could have

- my team, my colleagues, security officers.”

hung up my gloves - but in my philosophy, if

His humility seems inextricable with the deep

you’re tired, you’re retired,” he says. “And I’m

pride and love he has for his work. For Oberoi,

not tired.”

hospitality is, first and foremost, an act of

Entrees include dishes such as Dum ki sunehari nalli, comprising cooked lamb shank and gold leaf

026

my passion,” he emphasises.

many feel it is a deserving tribute to the bravery

humanity. “It is your duty and responsibility to save everyone,” he says. “They have come to your house.”

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Californian Roots With more than 20 years of hospitality experience to his name, acclaimed chef and restaurateur John Fraser returns to his culinary homeland.

Words: Juliana Shallcross • Portrait Photography: © Liz Clayman (unless otherwise stated)

I

n 1997, John Fraser was a 22-year-old in the

Strip, which had lost some of its celeb luster

suburbs of Los Angeles. Fresh from a stint as

and rock n’ roll credibility during the late ‘80s

a cook at L’Ermitage Beverly Hills, a luxury

and ‘90s.

hotel that fiercely guards guest privacy, his

Fast forward to present day, more than

next job awaited in the kitchen at Mondrian

twenty years later; Sunset Boulevard has evolved

Los Angeles on Sunset Boulevard. The

from a strip of tired nightclubs and run-down

Mondrian, unlike L’Ermitage, was a flashy see-

restaurants to a glamorous thoroughfare lined

and-be-seen spot where Hollywood denizens

with boutique shops, office buildings, residences

float about the hotel’s expansive SkyBar

and luxury hotels, the newest of which is The

rooftop lounge as the city lights twinkled in

West Hollywood Edition, the 10th such Edition

the background.

Hotel opened by Schrager in partnership with

At the time, Ian Schrager, the owner of New

Marriott International.

York’s legendary Studio 54 nightclub, was in the

Fraser sits in a corner of the hotel’s lobby

midst of scaling his successful Morgans Hotel

on a sunny November afternoon, looking out

Group beyond New York. Mondrian, along with

at Edition’s signature bar. His company, JF

The Clift Hotel in San Francisco and The Delano

Restaurants, oversees the menus for the hotel’s

in Miami, were recent examples of Schrager’s

Ardor restaurant, lobby bar and rooftop. “It’s

magic touch. Yet Mondrian wasn’t just another

actually somewhat serendipitous, coming full

notch in Schrager’s belt of boutique hotels; it

circle here with Ian Schrager,” Fraser says, a

also marked the revitalisation of the Sunset

little tired from the previous evening’s opening

SERVICE

© Nikolas Koenig

SERVICE

Bringing a playful luxury to New York’s busiest district, 701West is an imaginative restaurant within The Times Square Edition

party, which saw Ardor host a dinner for partners and VIPs followed by a media luncheon the next afternoon.

After his stint at Mondrian, Fraser worked under Thomas Keller at French Laundry in Napa for two years. Later, he moved to Paris, deepening his culinary skills at Taillevent and Maison Blanche. When he moved back to the United States in 2005, he opted for New York, taking the helm at Compass and receiving two stars from The New York Times for his work. By then, he was getting noticed as a serious chef. “I was just a cook until I got to New York,” Fraser says. “That’s when I rose up to chef, and then started to own restaurants and be an operator as well.”

“I was always trepidatious about coming back to a place where people might be more concerned with which celebrity was in the next booth, rather than the craft that we spent so much time to put on the plate.”

Schrager and Edition Hotels to run the food and beverage at The Times Square Edition. Schrager had sought out Fraser, not just for his rising star, but because his JF Restaurants group had evolved into an experienced culinary operation able to deftly handle a packed restaurant and a stripped-down lounge scene. Fraser had since stepped away from Dovetail and The Standard and when The Times Square Edition opened in early 2019, JF Restaurants had created the menus for the hotel’s sultry 701West restaurant, as well as its Lobby Bar, terrace lounge, room service, and Paradise Club – a nightlife and dining cabaret. 701West earned three stars from The New York Times not long after opening.

Once the dust settled in New York, Fraser

In 2007, Fraser opened his first restaurant,

turned his focus to Ardor at The Edition West

Dovetail, on the city’s Upper West Side.

Hollywood, his first restaurant in California. A

Dovetail quickly became a neighbourhood and

homecoming of sorts, some might say, although

critic favourite, earning a Michelin star for its

Los Angeles’ dining scene had undergone a

inventive vegetarian dishes such as parsnip

major revolution since he last cooked on the

ribs in tamarind barbeque sauce along with a

West Coast.

‘Meatless Mondays’ menu. Dovetail earned

“When I left LA over 20 years ago, it was

a Michelin Star for eight consecutive years,

more about the scene. The food was kind

showing that a restaurant with vegetarian

of secondary,” Fraser says. “Now, the food obsession here rivals New York City. In that

entrées could be just as elegant and refined as roasted beets. It quickly earned a Michelin

way, it’s a great place to cook for people, but I

While courting success with Dovetail, Fraser

star, noted for its high-quality cooking. Its

was always trepidatious about coming back to

expanded his offerings by partnering up with

sleek environs and stellar address in the West

a place where people might be more concerned

hotelier André Balazs in 2014 to open Narcissa

Village have also made Nix a popular spot for

with which celebrity was in the next booth,

and The Standard Café inside The Standard East

vegetarians and carnivores alike.

rather than the craft that we spent so much time

other Michelin contenders.

to put on the plate.”

Village. Already well-known for his vegetarian

The following year, Fraser opened The Loyal,

tasting menus, Fraser upped the farm-to-table

an American tavern also in the West Village,

And the restaurant’s name, Ardor, was a

ante by sourcing directly from Balazs’ private

yet pivoted away from vegetables in favour of

direct reflection of Fraser’s eagerness to return

farm in upstate New York.

elevated pub fare such as Piedmontese burger,

home. “Ardor is a word that I use regularly, even

In 2016, Fraser debuted Nix in Greenwich

Hamachi crudo, and Arctic char. There are

though it’s not well-known,” he says. “It’s this

Village, a meat-free restaurant serving

vegetables on offer of course, most notably the

idea of overflowing passion and excitement; it

vegetarian stand-outs such as Kabocha squash

steam vegetables in a peanut-ginger dressing.

felt appropriate.” Ardor anchors the right side of

dumplings, shiitake cacio e pepe, and tandoor

By then, Fraser was already consulting with

the lobby, accessible from both inside the hotel

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“Ardor is a word that I use regularly, even though it’s not wellknown. It’s this idea of overflowing passion and excitement; it felt appropriate.”

Starters at Ardor include arugula farro risotto, tandoor carrots and a raw cauliflower cacio e pepe

032

and out. The space, designed by Ian Schrager

salads finish off the smaller offerings while a

Company, is overflowing with giant green

charcoal grill churns out heftier (and meatier)

plants (yes, they are real) that are stacked by

entrees like lamb cooked under pine, dry aged

the handful around every table and banquette.

duck and Japanese wagyu.

At night, it’s hard to make out whether you’re in West Hollywood or some tropical isle.

But Fraser also looked outside his tried-andtrue items for inspiration. The sweet potato

The furniture nods to mid-century, especially

curry entrée was inspired by Night + Market

the green velvet-backed chairs in the private

restaurant across the street, where Fraser and

dining room, but otherwise, Ardor keeps a

team often dined before the hotel opened. “It’s

simple, modern aesthetic with cream-coloured

just so good. I was like, I have to compete with

cushions and black bistro chairs. A bar at the

this guy,” Fraser says. “Ours is vegan, which

front of the restaurant is a miniature version

I’m pretty sure theirs isn’t, but we have this

of the lobby’s dramatically lit centrepiece. Its

sort of West Side story of sweet potato dishes

menu is vegetable-heavy; this is, after all, what

going on.” The star of the dessert menu is

Fraser is best known for, and what foodies in Los

gooseberry phyllo pizza, created by Fraser’s

Angeles expect him to deliver. Indeed, Fraser

longtime pastry chef Sebastian Rouxel, which

says this restaurant is about coming to the

requires a pre-order and a server to drizzle the

source of his vegetable dishes. A raw cauliflower

25-year-aged balsamic on top of it at the table.

cacio e pepe kicks off the starters along with

Like 701West, Ardor’s dishes are accompanied

tandoor carrots and a farro risotto. Ceviche and

by a robust wine and cocktail programme,

16 - 19 May 2020 NRA McCormick Place - Chicago, IL North Building - Stand 7645

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SERVICE

overseen by JF Restaurant’s Beverage Director,

to be a brand in itself, and stand for something

Amy Racine. Fraser perks up when talking

other than a regular hotel restaurant.”

about her wine list, arranged by Mediterranean

Fraser says his way of standing out is through

climates versus region or terroir. “Amy has put

the style of food he serves. The menus at his

together a wine list of Mediterranean climates

restaurants are more than 50% vegetarian, a

that happen all over the world,” he explains.

JF Restaurants rule. Fresh, local and seasonal

“The Mediterranean is a place we all love to go

produce is of course a no-brainer. But while

in summertime but it’s also a climate, a style of

breakfast tends to be the usual egg dishes and

climate that deals with the amount of wind and

pastries, lunch and dinner is where Fraser

water. I’ve never seen a list like this before. It’s

shines. “We’re kind of playing around with this

brilliant. And just so right-now.”

health and wellness undertone,” Fraser says of

As an operator of multiple restaurants in two very popular hotels on opposite coasts,

034

there’s opportunity for sin if you want it.”

Fraser is constantly pushing back against the

After opening his own restaurants and

hotel restaurant stereotype. “The interesting

partnering with hoteliers, Fraser’s next move

part about being in a hotel restaurant is that

is to combine both practices. In early January,

it has to be one-part amenity where you’re

JF Restaurants purchased the North Fork Table

really just feeding people,” Fraser says. “You

and Inn on Long Island, due to reopen under his

want to get guests food because they’re hungry

direction this summer.

in the morning after a workout or get them a

Ardor’s wine list, overseen by Beverage Director Amy Racine, is arranged by climates

these menus. “And yes, a lot of it is raw. But

glass of wine because they had a hard day after travelling. And on the other side, you want it

A world of bespoke hospitality accessories as unique as you are info@beyondmenus.com | www.beyondmenus.com

STARTER

Hélène Darroze at The Connaught The Connaught LONDON

Words: Jenna Campbell Photography: © Jérôme Galland

IN A BITE Covers: 60 Owner: Paddy McKillen Interior Design: Pierre Yovanovitch F&B Manager: Mirko Benzo Head Chef: Marco Zampese Director of Wine: Daniel Manetti www.the-connaught.co.uk

M

ore than ten years since its inception,

cinematic qualities of the kitchen beyond. To

acclaimed chef Hélène Darroze’s

further cocoon the space, the ceiling above the

eponymous two Michelin-starred

tabletop is finished with a bespoke illustration

restaurant at The Connaught has undergone a

by French artist Rochegaussen, in which cooking

refurbishment, drawing upon seasonality and

utensils such as whisks, pots, colanders and

craftmanship to create an elegant and feminine

cheese graters are sketched in white ink.

design aesthetic that strikes a neat balance

Taking guests on a dining journey rooted in

between historical identity and the kitchen’s

the quality and origin of its produce, diners

forward-thinking flavour combinations.

begin with a seasonal consommé, before

Retaining the architectural integrity of The

selecting dishes based on the provenance of key

Connaught, French designer Pierre Yovanovitch

ingredients, such as Pigeon from Denbighshire

has re-written the design language of the

or Cep from Scotland. Furthermore, in a

interiors to create a light and energised dining

charming touch the fish dishes on the menu

setting, replacing mahogany panels with curved

are named along with the Cornwall trawler that

banquettes and seating in shades of coral,

made the catch.

yellow, tan and pale green, while customised

Solidifying the meticulous attention to detail

flooring and individual oak tables replete with

at the heart of its F&B offering, the culinary

dramatic red ceramic lacquered metal bases, add

experience is complemented by a selection of

depth and warmth.

over 3,000 bins and 20,000 bottles of wine,

Moving downstairs, artisanal touches take

while a tasting room dedicated to Armagnac –

centre stage at the newly conceived Chef’s

a distinctive style of French brandy – sourced

Table – a customised travertine counter set

from Darroze Armagnacs, the chef’s oenologist

on a terrazzo dais and surrounded by plush

family’s cellars, completes this well-considered

armchairs, where up to ten guest can enjoy the

and premium dining experience.

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Bombay Brasserie Taj CAPE TOWN

Words: Donna Salek Photography: © Courtesy of Taj Hotels

IN A BITE Covers: 80 Operator: Taj Hotels Architecture: Lightspace Architects Interior Design: Les Harbottle Designs Executive Chef: David Tilly Dinnerware: Revol www.tajhotels.com

038

F

ollowing an extensive redesign, Bombay

The menu features some of Bombay Brasserie’s

Brasserie has reopened its doors at Taj

renowned favourites as well as eight newly

Cape Town with a fresh look and new

introduced dishes, such as Baingan Bharta,

menu. In keeping with its other popular

which marries clay-oven smoked Aubergine

outposts in London and Dubai, the restaurant

with feta, and Tikka Masala, an ensemble of

offers a unique fine dining experience.

charred tikka, fenugreek and onion in a tomato

The reimagined space has doubled in size and

sauce. Diners can also choose from a selection

comprises a main dining area, an Indian-style

of small plates, showcased on tableware from

courtyard and pre-dinner bar. Designed by Les

the likes of Revol, that put a fine dining spin on

Harbottle Designs and Lightspace Architects,

Indian street food.

each section is decorated with a kaleidoscope

Leading onto the newly expanded section

of rich blues and greens; colours that hold great

of Bombay Brasserie is an Indian-style

significance in Indian culture.

courtyard, inspired by traditional spice markets.

Drawing upon ancient Indian artistry, the

Accessorised with cooking utensils, baskets,

main restaurant blends vintage elements with

hanging pendants and an ornate spice wall, the

elegant, contemporary touches, whilst the

design draws upon the vibrancy associated with

peacock-inspired colour palette is also picked

the restaurant concept.

up in the seating and decorative arched wall

The casual bar area uses a similar colour

panelling. An array of textured fabrics, patterned

palette to the restaurant with original features

lampshades and detailed flooring in both wood

such as pillars and high-pressed ceilings

and ornate tiling are paired with antique walnut

retained for character, whilst a mezannine

and hints of brass and gold, further animating

dining space is decorated with a feature wall

the design and reflecting India’s lively and

adorned with bells and lit lamps that reflect the

dynamic culture.

warmth of India’s hospitality.

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MoMosita MoMo’s KUALA LUMPUR

Words: Eleanor Howard Photography: © Ian Tan

IN A BITE Covers: 60 Owner: Ormond Group Operator: Troika Sky Dining Architecture and Interior Design: Akin Atelier www.stayatmomos.com

040

L

ocated in the heart of Kuala Lumpur’s

notion of hospitality by capitalising on casual

Chow Kit neighbourhood MoMo’s – one

dining, informality and ease. “When we first

of two new launches from Ormond Group

saw the space, we loved it. It’s really Chow Kit

in Malaysia’s capital – is a new social hotel

in its essence – gritty, a little underground and

seeking to embrace Asia’s open-house culture,

young,” reveals Bauer.

uniting locals and visitors through its relaxed

Serving Mexican classics such as tacos with

environment. The no-fuss approach is carried

various fillings, in addition to fresh takes on

through to MoMosita, its modern self-serve

tostadas and churros, the menu satisfies both

taqueria offering authentic Mexican cuisine.

sweet and savoury tastes. The drinks offer

Interiors, led by Sydney-based design studio

meanwhile features a variety of beers, spirits

Akin Atelier, comprise raw concrete, laminated

and cocktails like Pisco Sour and Caipirinha.

timber and combed plaster, which mirror the

“Our guests love our namesake MoMojito

relaxed simplicity of the concept. The soft

cocktail – which has a little local chilli-padi

colour scheme features dusky pinks, washed

kick with sweet lychee notes,” adds Bauer.

greens and aged brass, all of which contrast with

MoMosita has established itself as a one-

youthful white and pink neon signs displayed

stop-shop for great food and socialising by

throughout. The playful character of Kuala

opening only on weekday evenings and with

Lumpur is echoed through collaborations with

late music programming taking place across

local designers such as furniture studio Kedai

the weekend. “Social interaction is central to

Bikin and multidisciplinary artist and textile

MoMo’s ethos,” concludes Gareth Lim, CEO of

designer Shan Shan Lim.

Ormond Group. “MoMo’s is bringing a fresh

The F&B concept, realised by Christian Bauer

personality to Kuala Lumpur, offering young

and Eddie Chew – the masterminds behind

culturally driven travellers a design focused and

Troika Sky Dining – challenges the traditional

value-conscious experience.”

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Ella Mia St. Martins Lane LONDON

Words: Donna Salek Photography: © John Carey

itting within London’s St. Martins Lane,

S

Reflecting the vibrancy of the design, the F&B

new coffee shop and breakfast eatery

offerings are exciting, colourful and far from the

Ella Mia brings the craft coffee culture of

norm. In addition to the usual line up of coffees,

Los Angeles to Covent Garden. Developed and

teas, kombuchas, fresh smoothies and protein

operated by hospitality group SBE, Ella Mia is

shakes are the unique, pastel-coloured spiced

an uplifting and sophisticated brand exceeding

lattes in flavours such as sweet potato and

a generic coffee shop experience.

cinnamon, lavender and beetroot and matcha.

The original concept and design for Ella

To eat, breakfast options include bircher muesli,

Mia was developed by London-based interior

smoothie protein bowls and a selection of

design group Blacksheep, architectural firm

pastries – some dressed with pleasing displays

CallisonCRTKL and SBE subsidiary Dakota

of fresh fruit, others topped with brightly

Development, and is set to roll-out across SBE

coloured icing – while savoury dishes such as

hotels globally.

crayfish, avocado and lemon mayonnaise on

Adorned in shades of dusty pink, the design is reminiscent of a Wes Anderson film set. Luxe,

IN A BITE Covers: 20 Owner / Operator: SBE Developer: Dakota Development Architecture: CallisonRTKL Interior Design: Blacksheep F&B Manager: Katy Kruczko Pastry Chef: Ludovic Mesple www.stmartinslane.com

042

granary bread or pequillo pepper and goats cheese quiche, inform the lunch menu.

theatrical and almost perfectly symmetrical,

According to Sam Nazarian, founder and CEO

interiors feature subtle floral patterns and

of SBE, Ella Mia is an integral part of the group’s

brushed gold details, with velvet chairs and

expansion, with plans for a presence in 50 hotels

two-tone banquettes sitting at white tables

including the SLS, Delano and Mondrian brands

accented with gold edging – all rounded to

by 2021. “The style and elevated atmosphere of

further soften the design. A curving brass

St. Martins Lane Hotel is the perfect setting for

canopy lines the ceiling, dropping behind the

Ella Mia’s debut,” he comments. We can’t wait

back bar to form the display menu – a focal

to see our latest concept grow into a successful

point for those passing by.

brand with locations around the world.”

IIIIIIIIIIIII C R E A T E ! IIIIIIIIIIIII

www.tafelstern.com

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18.02.20 14:51

Pastore Hotel Chadstone MELBOURNE A new restaurant by Australian chef Scott Pickett celebrates the farming origins of Melbourne’s retail capital.

Words: Mandi Keighran Photography: © Kristoffer Paulsen (unless otherwise stated)

T

he Melbourne suburb of Chadstone, a 25-minute drive from the Central Business District, is home to one of the largest shopping centres in the world, with over 550

shops that attract around 24 million visitors annually. Until recently however, there was a lack of luxury accommodation to complement the high-end retail experience. That all changed with the opening of Hotel Chadstone Melbourne, MGallery by Sofitel at the end of 2019.

The AU$130 million property – the city’s first five-star hotel outside of the CBD – is a soaring tower designed by Bates Smart, inspired by the feminine, draped form of a flowing dress. It boasts 250 rooms, suites and penthouses, a bar, a rooftop pool and two restaurants including Pastore, the latest offering from award-winning Melbourne chef and restaurateur, Scott Pickett. The restaurant takes its name from the Italian word for shepherd, referencing the farming origins of the land in Chadstone, an idea that also informed the interiors scheme, which comes courtesy of the Singapore office of EDG Design.

“From the start we were excited about the idea that the site used to be a sheep farm and orchards, so the pasture idea was always there for us,” says Michael Goodman, Managing Director at EDG Design. “But it didn’t become what it is today until Scott and his team came on board later in the design process. He was the ideal fit.”

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© Sharyn Cairns

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The 35-day dry-aged bistecca alla Fiorentina is cooked over fire, with the various timbers giving unique flavour profiles

The space has been designed around the

it’s prepared. A huge custom wood grill and

principles of an old farmhouse, with cedar

range, designed in collaboration with Chris Love

wood framing a large hearth and several

Design, forms a centrepiece. The grills smoke,

rooms that come together to make the house.

hiss, crackle and sizzle, filling the space with

Bespoke tapestries in soft, earthy colours and

the sounds and scents of the cooking, creating

native Australian floral arrangements adorn

a multi-sensory dining experience that Pickett

the walls, delicate furnishings are realised in

playfully calls “dinner and a show”.

subtle pastel pinks and greys that recall the

“People in Melbourne are super connected

Australian landscape, and natural light floods

to food so we really wanted to break down

the interior through the façade. “We used

the barriers,” says Goodman. “The emotion

materials that are traditionally found in an old

of watching a wood fire and cooking together

farmhouse – cedarwood, stone, metal, glass and

goes back longer than proper language, so we’re

wool,” continues Goodman. “They are used in

talking about a real human origin story here;

a luxurious manner here, but they come from a

that’s what we wanted to tap into.”

place rooted in the location.”

primal form of food preparation but one that

of seating that includes private dining areas, an

was neglected for so long. The flavour profiles

extended booth with banquettes and a statement

we get cooking over various timbers – ironbark,

marble table for groups or communal dining.

red gum, apple wood, cherry wood and pinot

A kitchen, open to the majority of the dining space and framed by the pass, offers a theatrical

046

Picket agrees: “Cooking over fire is the most

The 50-cover dining room comprises a mix

grapevines – mean you don’t need to do much else with the produce.”

spectacle within the restaurant that allows

As much of the menu is cooked over a wood

diners to connect with the food and the way

fire, the kitchen goes through around a tonne

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© Jake Roden

048

of timber per week. The steel timber storage

service but also as the hotel breakfast room.

– created by the same fabricator who Pickett

Clever integrated details and functionality

worked with on elements of his South Yarra

ensure that this daily transition is seamless.

restaurant, Matilda – is integrated into the

“An even bigger challenge was making sure

dining room. But As much as Pastore is about

the spaces connect with its local audience,” says

the wood fire – think whole grilled barramundi

Goodman. “Not every market is keen to dine

with blood orange and fennel, or 35-day dry-

in hotels and in some markets there’s quite a

aged bistecca alla Fiorentina – it’s also about

stigma against it; it’s an uphill battle from the

the homemade pasta. “My favourite is the pici

start. That’s certainly the case in Australia, so it

with a beautiful Tuscan-inspired ragu,” says

was critical that we find ways to ensure Patore

Pickett. “It’s the ultimate comfort food.”

was viewed as a freestanding venue that happens

Native Australian ingredients also feature

to be in a hotel.” As a result, the restaurant

subtly throughout the menu. A house-cured

entrance is not in the hotel, but rather on the

duck prosciutto is paired with native Davidson

street, and there’s a internal passageway from

plum and Geraldton wax leaves, while the pici

the guest lifts for easy breakfast access.

dish is seasoned with a sprinkle of salt bush.

“It’s great to see something that started with

“Where we can, we use Australian ingredients,

research in our office in Singapore has been

but I never want it to be in a gimmicky way,”

translated into a venue by a world-class chef,”

says Pickett. “We limit it to little touches.”

says Goodman. “Real magic only happens at the

While Pastore is an integral part of Hotel

perfect confluence of strategy, concept, design,

Chadstone, it was key to give the space its own

culinary execution and great operations. To me,

identity. One challenge came from the fact that

this was one of those right projects with the

the space is not only used for lunch and dinner

right team that was able to make that happen.”

IN A BITE Covers: 120 Owner / Investor: Vicinity & Gandel Group Operator: Accor, Pickett and Co. Interior Design: EDG Design F&B Consultant: EDG Design Executive Chef: Mirco Speri F&B Manager: Sven Lins Glassware: Schott Zwiesel www.pastorerestaurant.com.au

B:242 mm T:236 mm S:206 mm

F I NA L LY, DI NNER WA R E A S CR EATI VE A S DI NNER .

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Great Scotland Yard LONDON Inspired by the iconography of its location, the former home of London’s Metropolitan Police has been elegantly reimagined for Hyatt’s Unbound Collection, featuring a series of F&B concepts to suit every mood.

Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: Courtesy of Hyatt

L

ocated in London’s City of Westminster, Great Scotland Yard – the former headquarters of the Metropolitan Police and Tudor residence of visiting Scottish royalty

– has been elegantly reimagined as a stately hotel in which past and present seamlessly unite.

As Hyatt’s first Unbound Collection property in the UK, the project and concept have been guided by the iconography of its location. Sensitively restored by EPR Architects and featuring interiors by HBA, the design takes its cue from the building’s historical cornerstones of law and order.

Welcoming guests through its trademark green front doors, the individuality of the 152-key property, which also encompasses a two-bedroom townhouse suite, a farm-tofork restaurant and three unique bar concepts, has been deftly expressed, bringing together Edwardian-inspired hues and patterns with conventional Whitehall connotations and bursts of colour that work together to represent the era.

“The building is an icon hiding in a century and more of dark and infamous secrets,” notes David T’Kint, Partner at HBA. “We were challenged to keep the soul of the building and pay homage to its heritage rather than just bringing new life to old walls.”

Subtle nods to the building’s infamous past, including a Lewis Carroll-inspired clock (the author was once suspected

051

Great Scotland Yard’s bars pay homage to the building’s iconic history of justice, law and order

052

of being Jack the Ripper), police badge carpets,

egg and crab tartlet with pickled chilli replacing

politically charged silkscreen prints, bespoke

the typical fare.

lamps by Chelsom and lock-and-key-inspired

40 Elephants meanwhile is an all-day cocktail

details are cleverly incorporated around

bar inspired by a female crime syndicate

the property, while 600 pieces of artwork

(otherwise known as The Forty Thieves) who

curated by art consultant Sarah Percy-Davis

operated throughout the 18th and 19th centuries

of Hollandridge Group – including sculptures

and were notable for their skill in avoiding

created by serving prisoners working with the

police detection. Walls are adorned with the

prison charity Koestler Arts – signify a bold,

portraits of the smash-and-grab gang’s most

new chapter for the landmark.

notorious members, whilst a fractured glass

The storied design carries through to its F&B

installation entitled ‘Diamond’s Hostage’ serves

spaces, two of which were conceptualised by

as a metaphor for their crimes and has inspired

Gorgeous Group. Wrapped around a central

the staff uniforms, designed by Studio 104.

courtyard, the four venues are designed as

Based around the first British cocktail book,

a series of spaces that serve their purpose

‘Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks’ published

according to the time of day. The Parlour for

in 1869 and tying in with the first written

example is a West-Indies inspired lounge open

arrest record for the Forty Thieves in 1870,

throughout the day, serving a variety of teas

the drinks selection is influenced by tipples

through partnership with Henrietta Lovell of

of the era; celebrating a style of drinking that

Rare Tea Company. The venue also offers its

is considered by some to be lost. Cocktails

own take on afternoon tea, in which English

take on the characteristics of ringleaders and

tradition combines with Indian flavours,

include creations such as Six Cylinders Martini,

resulting in coronation chicken, curried devilled

a combination of Ogilvy Vintage potato vodka,

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Sibín is a late-night drinking den dedicated to the imbibing of whisky-based tipples like Octa Colada and The Brew of Life

054

dry vermouth, Mexican cedron-infused hemp

while also tapping into a growing trend of

oil and gentian bitters, and 40 Elephants Cup,

specialist cocktail bars.

a warming concoction created using white port,

The first step in this approach was to create

herbaceous gin, blackcurrant and red wine,

a drinks list that removes references to the

which are served in glassware from the likes of

terroir debate – the idea that a whisky should

Nude and John Jenkins.

be indicative of the time, place and ingredients

Whilst a historical narrative dictates the

from which it was fashioned. “The whisky list

overall look and feel of the drinks selection,

is divided in a very intuitional way, by occasion

its cocktail menu also serves as a platform for

and dress code,” explains Michal Maziarz, Bars

championing sustainability and zero-waste

Manager. From ‘antagonist’ themed drinks

principles, which enables bar staff to experiment

to classic concoctions, the whisky collection

with hyper-seasonal produce and work with the

oscillates somewhere between 120 and 150

kitchen to use ingredients that might otherwise

bottles, and with more than 50% of the list

have been thrown away.

including limited editions from around the

This approach is reinforced at Sibín, a late-

globe, the selection is a perfect example of how

night drinking den, where great efforts have

a robust liquid can be used to make something

been made to curate a space dedicated to

fresh and interesting. From Octa Colada – a

imbibing world-class whiskies. Influenced by

take on the piña colada – to Clear Conscious

anti-establishment, illicit drinking dens, the

– a blend of Bán Pot Still Irish Poitín, clarified

bar is hidden away behind a bookcase and acts

cream, mint and cocoa – and The Brew of Life –

as a shrine to law and disorder. The intention

a reinterpretation of a classic espresso martini,

here was to remove masculine connotations of

where spent coffee grounds repurposed and

whisky and make the category more accessible,

infused with sugar syrup to make a kombucha

Designer Uniform Crafted with Passion COLLECTION: SAKE NO HANA (HAKKASAN GRP) STUDIO-104.COM

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reduction – the menu has been carefully crafted

into us many years ago,” explains Harper.

to educate and entertain.

With an impressive selection of suppliers,

In the hotel’s flagship restaurant, The Yard,

including Owl Barn Larder who provide wild

barrelled ceilings, exposed brick and tan leather

boar, to London Smoke & Cure, who, according

banquettes combine to create an aesthetic

to Harper produce the best bacon in the city –

reminiscent of a countryside farmhouse, and

“I’ve never comes across bacon that tastes like

a theatrical open kitchen outfitted with blue

that before” – and black pudding from Paddock

motif tiles, invites diners into the heart of the

Farm in Oxfordshire, nose-to-tail dining and a

kitchen. Overseen by acclaimed chef Robin

belief in fresh, seasonal produce is fundamental

Gill of The Dairy in Clapham, and Head Chef,

Channelling this ethos across the property,

Alex Harper, formerly of The Ledbury and

both 40 Elephants and Sibín serve bar snacks

Harwood Arms (the pair previously worked

in the spirit of The Yard, whilst simultaneously

together at Raymond Blanc’s Michelin-starred

drawing upon their own narratives by

Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons), British-inspired

showcasing dishes such as smoked eel pie with

cuisine featuring dishes such as chicken thigh,

mash and parsley, which reflects a cuisine once

crispy skin, leak and truffle terrine, and roast

served in Victorian public houses. Influenced by

monkfish, turnips, yuzu and XO sauce, are

the enduring legacy of location, Great Scotland

testament to seasonality and provenance.

Yard succeeds in offering diners a taste of the

“At Great Scotland Yard we are trying to ensure

not so distant past with its mix of delicate and

that the food and beverage is unique, offering

hardy tipples, whilst also providing a glimpse

delicious dishes using our ethos of homemade

into the future as it seeks to execute a farm-

with the greatest respect to ingredients, which

to-fork ethos that is driven by a passion for

is something that Raymond Blanc drummed

seasonality and drive for greater sustainability.

IN A BITE Owner: Twenty14 Holdings Operator: Hyatt Architecture: EPR Architects Interior Design: HBA Executive Chef: Robin Gill Executive Chef: Alex Harper Bars Manager: Michal Maziarz Tableware: North Street Potters, Richard Brendon Glassware: John Jenkins, Nude, Riedel Uniform Design: Studio 104 www.hyatt.com

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26.02.20 16:05

Kultá Kitchen & Bar Lapland Hotels Bulevardi HELSINKI Attracting diners with its Nordic mystique, Lapland Hotels’ new culinary venture makes its mark on the Finnish capital.

Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: Courtesy of Lapland Hotels

L

apland, with its Arctic magic that encompasses six-

seen here before,” explains Riikka Tenhunen, Restaurant

month long winters and Santa Claus’ residence, is

Manager at Kultá. “Lapland and its nature are at the core of

undoubtedly one of the most intriguing tourism

what we do. We put great attention to the atmosphere and

destinations of the Northern hemisphere, attracting visitors

The urban collection of Lapland Hotels currently has four

has become an integral part of the appeal, but no longer is a

properties spread across the country, each with a restaurant

lengthy and sometimes costly journey to the North required

dedicated to Lappish food. The peculiar name of Kultá is

to get a taste of reindeer tongue or sustainably sourced Arctic

somewhat different to the Sami names given to the other

char. Lapland Hotels, Finland’s largest private hotel chain

three. “In our other urban hotels, the restaurant is named

with 18 properties, has started expanding its urban hotel

after the Sami word for the location. Helsinki was probably

concept to major cities around the country, including to the

too far south for the Samis to travel, hence there is no

capital, Helsinki.

equivalent,” notes Tenhunen. “Kultá means gold in Finnish

Opened in the first quarter of 2019, Lapland Hotels Bulevardi has already made a culinary mark on Helsinki’s

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its tranquillity.”

from all over the world. Authentic food from the polar region

and what is more precious than the Lappish gold mined in the North.”

bustling food map. The first of its kind in the capital to offer

The entire hotel, including the 250-cover restaurant

contemporary Lappish cuisine, Kultá Kitchen & Bar on the

that serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, was designed by

ground floor of the hotel attracts diners with its creative

architects Pervin Imaditdin and Marjut Kauppinen, who in

menus and Nordic mystique. Complemented by a 14m-long

2017 decided to merge their practices under Arkval Taite

golden bar serving authentic and fresh northern flavours

Architects. The collaboration for the flagship in Helsinki also

and banqueting floor Rikastamo, the F&B programme of the

involved owner Pertti Yliniemi and the operator’s own in-

hotel integrates seamlessly into the relaxed and cosy design

house creative team. “I’m not saying that you need to be

of the rooms, most of which come with a private sauna.

from Lapland to understand the culture, but it helps,” notes

“We wanted to introduce a modern version of the Lappish

Tenhunen. “Having started in the 1960s, our owner lives and

spirit to Helsinki and offer something that has never been

breathes everything about the region so a constant dialogue

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Menu highlights include salted whitefish with sour cream and reindeer sausage

with the designers was a necessity. The Lappish feeling – it means different things to different people and we know how we want to translate that.”

The reindeer antlers that adorn the lobby, restaurant and rooms, complemented by the softness of woollen shawls evoke an atmosphere synonymous with the fells of Lapland.

It almost feel as if someone is giving you a giant warm hug when you enter the property. The cosiness and warmth of the interiors is a beautiful juxtaposition to the six-month cold winter roaming outside in the far North, while the subtle and soft lighting by Mount Kelvin accompanies the distinctive scent that has been developed for the urban hotel collection.

In the restaurant, beautiful glassware by Schott Zwiesel and specially commissioned ceramic artwork and dinnerware by Anu Pentik adds a layer of personalisation and charm to the entire ensemble.

Taking charge of the menu and selection of ingredients is the group’s Executive Chef Tero Mäntykangas, often referred to as the king of food in Lapland. Born and bred in the northern region he has established personal relationships with the local herders, foragers, fisherman and farmers; his 23-year career with the company makes him an invaluable piece of the culinary puzzle that is Lappish food. “Pure food is really the buzz right now,” he explains. “Lappish ingredients are a natural response to this trend. We Laplanders eat what we see outside our window. It is fantastic to serve our guests food that we know exactly where it came from.”

With the harvesting season running from August to October, it is mother nature that defines the menu. “We

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need to be on the lookout when sourcing

and reindeer blood sausages on the breakfast

ingredients,” continues Mäntykangas. “For

buffet is already adventurous enough, but

example, we have to carefully plan next year’s

it seems that the dinner menu’s reindeer of

requirement of Arctic cloudberries to be able to

the day dish is where imagination can really

serve them for breakfast.”

run wild. The meat of the Arctic animal has a

Some of the other quintessential items that

low-fat percentage and is rich in vitamins and

feature on the menu include reindeer in various

minerals, yet, according to the culinary team,

forms, such as liver mousse with blackcurrants

the most delicious part is the tongue.

and spruce sprout brioche, and Lappish

With works under way to open another urban

delicacies like snow grouse, Arctic char, king

hotel in Tampere in southern Finland, it is with

crab and vendace, together with vegetables and

curiosity that one ponders whether it would be

fruits grown using a sustainable form of slash-

possible to scale this concept in an authentic

and-burn agriculture. For dessert, blueberries

way to the international arena. There is no doubt

are combined with cardamom and sour cream,

that with such special ingredients making up the

to complete the three-course offering.

culinary fabric the exotic draw factor is certainly

“We change our à la carte menu three

high, but what of the sustainable practices and

times-a-year, but the evening surprise menu

supply chain management? Perhaps a concept

is where we can really get creative,” says Mika

as unique as this one only works within its own

Heiskanen, Head Chef of the Helsinki property.

country’s borders, mirroring the culture and

One might argue that having reindeer liver pâté

values of the people who call it home.

IN A BITE Covers: 250 Owner: Pertti Yliniemi Operator: Lapland Hotels Architecture: Soini & Horto Interior Design: Arkval Taite Architects Head Chef: Mika Heiskanen F&B Manager: Riikka Tenhunen Glassware: Schott Zwiesel www.kitchenkulta.fi

JOHN JENKINS

BY APPOINTMENT TO HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES SUPPLIER OF CRYSTAL GLASS JOHN JENKINS & SONS LTD T/A WILLIAM YEOWARD CRYSTAL HAMPSHIRE ENGLAND

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www.johnjenkins.co.uk www.williamyeowardcrystal.com

W MUSCAT With nods to Omani heritage, the new beachside resort from W Hotels is set to be a game-changer, drawing in guests with its creative F&B experiences.

Words: Devina Divecha • Photography: Courtesy of W Muscat

S

et against the Al Hajar Mountains and nestled on the Shatti Al Qurum waterfront, W Muscat’s design and food & beverage offering are inspired by the local

Omani surroundings – both from the Arabian country’s natural landscape and colours. The property was designed

by P49Deesign, in collaboration with Rockwell Group and LMS Dubai.

Arriving at the driveway, guests will see a nine-tonne frankincense tree sculpture designed by artist Pongsatat Uaiklang that pays tribute to Omani culture – where aromatic resin is used to welcome travellers after long journeys. This tribute to Oman’s heritage continues through both the design and food offering in the hotel.

W Muscat’s F&B Manager Philipp Ewald says it was important for every venue on-site to have its own identity and not overlap with one other. The culinary team came on board after initial concepts and designs were already finalised. Faced with existing designs, Ewald and the hotel’s Executive Chef Alain Allaire started creating mood boards for the food and drink offering based on these before going ahead with the finer details of the food. What was clear, Ewald says, was that there was always going to be a local relevance in mind which translated across all the concepts in the property.

He shares examples of how this vision was achieved. With cocktails, the hotel’s mixologists have taken local fruits and flavours and incorporated them in drinks served in quality

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glassware from the likes of Stoelzle and Schott

Change’ that support ocean conservation through

Zwiesel. The traditional French St. Honoré cake has

direct partnerships with marine charities.

been made with Omani halwa – a type of sweet jelly.

The restaurant Char meanwhile, grills anything and

The team found a local roastery for Omani-brewed

everything – from offering the expected steaks, Omani

coffee beans and also worked with a local supplier

lobsters and king prawns, the restaurant also serves

to create a signature W Muscat blend made from

up the unexpected chargrilled Caesar salad and grilled

Moroccan mint, hibiscus and rose hip.

fruits with coconut cream, while surprising palates

The initial idea for the hotel’s three-meal restaurant,

with miso eggplant and tuna tartare with pomegranate

Harvest, was to be as health-driven, sustainable and

seeds, assembled on beautiful Figgjo plates. Allaire

local as possible, with the concept offering à la carte

points out that in addition to using local seafood, a

breakfast instead of a buffet. However, demand from

variety of local spices such as za’atar, are used as a

the customers saw the hotel switch to the latter

nod to Omani culture. The décor is reminiscent of

while still aiming to retain the essence of the original

an Omani dhow with tug rope lighting adorning the

culinary concept.

ceiling and wall-side signal beams as if the space were

Allaire reveals that the restaurant uses as much local

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at sea.

produce as possible in line with the sustainable theme,

Making its Omani debut is George V Eatertainment’s

while Ewald notes that from using repurposed banana

Siddharta Lounge by Buddha Bar with an expansive

fibre placemats through to ensuring there is no plastic

restaurant and lounge designed by Rockwell Group.

in takeaway items, the mandate of being eco-friendly

Overlooking the coastline of Shatti Al Qurum, the

is taken seriosuly throughout the venue.

space also includes a rooftop infinity pool and a swim-

This continues with the wine list at Harvest, which

up bar. The F&B team say the nightlife destination

uses organic wines and a range of ethically sourced

has been welcomed whole-heartedly in Muscat, with

and environmentaly conscious wines called ‘Sea

Ewald confirming that the lounge is beverage-driven

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on weekends. The Mediterranean-themed menu

the Omani kummas (headgears part of the Omani

with an Asian twist includes the likes of mini sushi

attire). Carl Almeida, a partner at P49 Deesign says:

burgers and tempuras. The venue has been created to

“The textured walls and contrasting shapes represent

be reminiscent of a traditional Omani majlis, where

roads less travelled and journeys explored by Nomadic

elegantly draped curtains create the feeling and

traders. The abstract lines and alternate design is

privacy of being inside a Bedouin-style tent, while

symbolic of the crossroads fared by Bedouin tribes.”

the table setting is complemented by collections from

From mashrabiya Omani panelling to distinct Middle

Paderno, Craster, Hepp and BHS.

Eastern elements, the space is an amalgamation of

Another signature concept, scheduled to open in the

The W brand’s signature Wet Deck concept sits

evocative of 1930s Shanghai offering a range of dishes,

alongside the 1,800m2 beachfront pool at the Muscat

from Peking duck to egg tarts and has been inspired by

property, and serves food inspired from Latin America

the back alleys of the city. Allaire – who has worked in

such as ceviche and tacos, but with fusion Arabic

Asia for more than a decade – says that while the food

flavours. The design, meanwhile, has been inspired

is authentic, it has been adapted to local sensibilities.

by Oman’s naturally occurring Hawiyyat Najm, which

For example, pork does not exist on the menu, and the

is also known as the Bimmah Sinkhole.

team will be headed by a head chef with experience of

With striking nods to Oman’s heritage through its

the Asian cuisine. Allaire adds: “We focus on Peking

design and food, W Muscat has already proved to be

duck, and are the only restaurant in Muscat to have

a game-changer and promises to continue delivering

the [right] oven for this dish.”

high-end experiences to both the local population and

The W’s take on a lobby, the Living Room, offers the opportunity to relax in an Arabic majlis (a private seating area), beneath an oversized installation of

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East to West.

first quarter of 2020, is Ba Ban, a Cantonese F&B space

tourists flocking to the beachside resort.

IN A BITE Owner: Al Asalah Hotels Resorts Management SAOC Operator: Marriott International Architecture and Interior Design: P49 Deesign, Rockwell Group, LMS Dubai F&B Manager: Phillip Ewald Dinnerwear: Carlisle, Churchill, Figgjo, Luzerne, Schonwald, Narumi, Nikko Serveware: Paderno, Craster Cutlery: Hepp, La Tavola, Cutipol Glassware: Stoelzle, Schott Zwiesel Table Decoration: BHS www.marriott.com

Flower-tree

W W W.ZIEHER .COM

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Sumosan Six Senses Residences COURCHEVEL The contemporary Japanese restaurant makes its first alpine foray, bringing its signature sushi dishes to the glamourous heights of the French Alps.

Words: Jenna Campbell Photography: Courtesy of Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas

W

ith sweeping turns, parlous drops and breathtaking scenery, traversing down the winding slopes of Les Trois Vallées in the French Alps (the largest linked

ski area in the world boasting 375 miles of off-piste pleasure) is all part of the experience for thrill-seeking travellers. But for those more accustomed to après-ski and premium alpine gastronomy, the town of Courchevel 1850 represents the crème de la crème.

A purpose-built playground for international jetsetters, 1850 is the highest in altitude of Courchevel’s three towns and is renowned for drawing in A-list clientele with its designer boutiques and luxury hotels. Its status as the goto destination for both skiing and après-ski is solidified by a world-class culinary offering, which encompasses a total of 12 Michelin-starred eateries fronted by some of the world’s most revered chefs.

Providing an alternative to the cuisine typical of the region, Sumosan – the much-loved Japanese restaurant with a portfolio spanning London, Moscow, Monaco, Montenegro and Dubai – has made its ski-side debut in the heart of this ultra-luxe mountain setting. Celebrated for its innovative sushi dishes, it is hoped that this lighter style of dining will be the perfect antidote to traditional fondue and raclette.

Located within the plush surroundings of Six Senses Residences Courchevel – which takes mountain living to new heights with its 53 beautifully appointed apartments,

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Artwork including a sumo wrestler kitted out in ski apparel provides a fun and memorable twist upon arrival

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wellness-led spa facilities and ski concierge –

Upgrading the former lounge and club space,

the interiors of the restaurant have been realised

the designers have utilised dark timber wall

by design studio Morpheus London, who, having

and floor cladding to create a refined backdrop,

worked on 35 of the property’s residential

complemented with delicate Japanese-inspired

apartments, were well-equipped to bring

features including a hand-carved solid wood

together the existing snow-capped aesthetic

panel with a hammered effect on the bar front,

with contemporary Japanese influences and

and a highly textured lokra wallpaper that

create a relaxed and sophisticated dining space.

references the methods used to make authentic

The restaurant is divided into a number of

Yoshihiro knives. “The materiality of the

different spaces including the open kitchen and

project lends itself to the side of Japanese craft,

dedicated sushi counter, which are situated in

whilst enriching it with textures via techniques

the centre to draw attention to the theatrical

traditionally used in Japan,” adds Patel.

undertones of the cuisine and invite guests

Banquettes are topped with cushions

to immerse themselves in the experience.

upholstered in kimono fabric while an origami-

Meanwhile, bronze screens have been cleverly

style chandelier frames the space. Subtle touches

incorporated to create a series of intimate and

of humour, translated through a series of artistic

private areas for guests to relax and unwind

installations such as a sumo wrestler kitted out

after a full-throttle day on the slopes. “As one

in ski apparel, provide a fun and memorable

of the few high-end sushi restaurants in the

twist upon arrival and exit. Similarly, a marble

area it had to stand out, however we didn’t want

artwork depicting Courchevel’s peaks echoes

to create something that was showy, it had to be

the Japanese sunrise over Mount Fiji, fulfilling

elegant,” notes Rickesh Patel, Design Director

the designer’s aim to unite two mountains

at Morpheus London.

through iconography.

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At the helm of the culinary offering is Executive Head Chef Bubker Belkhit, who,

truffle mayonnaise sauce.

having joined Sumosan in 1997, has gone on

While the logistics of sourcing top-quality

to become a crucial player in the restaurant’s

ingredients has presented some challenges, the

expansion. Better known by both the front-and

chef has been able to use many of his valued

-back-of-house teams as Buba, his style of

suppliers providing guests with a authentic

cooking is built around showcasing just three or

Sumosan experience. “It is important for me to

four flavours: “I’m not a fan of showy food, we

keep the consistency everywhere, so most of the

try to keep things simple, he admits it’s about

suppliers are from different countries. For tuna,

the little touches.” Featuring some of the chef’s

I have my direct supplier in Spain, while salmon

signature dishes including tuna and truffle rolls,

and seabass is from Italy and the black cod and

salmon rice pizza, grilled seabass with citrus

crab meat comes from London,” says Belkhit.

ginger sauce and lobster salad, the menu also

Encapsulating laid-back luxury in an

encompasses a selection of delicacies inspired

exclusive mountain setting is no easy feat,

by the location. “All of Sumosan’s restaurants

especially in a region acclaimed for its Michelin-

are based on 80% of the menu being the same

star cuisine, but both Six Senses and Sumosan

everywhere and having consistency across all of

succeed in offering visitors an opportunity

them; then the rest is focused on adapting it to

to revel in a space that exudes warmth and

local tastes. For Courchevel I have focused on

acclaimed Japanese cuisine, which is surely

good meat variations,” adds Belkhit.

alpine gastronomy at its finest.

New additions include T-bone with yuzu kosho butter; torched sushi varieties of squid with calamari ink powder and unagi with cotton

074

candy sauce; and a Wagyu beef sandwich with

IN A BITE Covers: 110 Owner: Cain International Operator: Sumosan, Six Senses Hotels Resorts Spas Interior Design: Morpheus London F&B Consultant: Restaurant Keys Head Chef: Bubker Belkhit www.sumosan.com

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© Mikael Lundblad

Dóttir Kex Hotel PORTLAND Fusing the flavours of Reykjavik and Portland, Dóttir’s seasonal, ingredient-driven menu brings a touch of Nordic sensibility stateside.

Words: Alia Akkam

L

ike Reykjavik, where the buzzy Kex Hostel

instance, now have a second life as wainscoting.

opened in an old biscuit factory in 2011,

Icelandic designer Hálfdan (Dáni) Pedersen of

Portland, Oregon, is a vibrant, laidback

Baulhus, who also handled the interiors of the

and quirky city thronged with outdoor lovers

Reykjavik Kex, has worked on numerous film

who marvel at the abundance of surrounding

sets, so the hotel has an organically cinematic

nature at every chance they get. Given these

air, flaunting a large collection of European

similarities, it was fitting then that Kex owner

sourced antiques, such as the collection of

Kristinn Vilbergsson selected the city to debut

plates from a Belgian racetrack bearing the

the next outpost of his social-centric hotel.

names of horses past.

Kex is one of several budding, youthful

Although guests enjoy taking to the

hospitality brands that emphasise community

subterranean sauna, most of them spend

through

shared

their time mingling with Portland denizens in

guestrooms and lively food and drink spaces.

affordable

yet

stylish

Dóttir. The heart of the hotel, this restaurant

Kex Portland’s 29 pared-back rooms, reached

swathed in natural light starts humming in

via corridors lined with dreamy, handpainted

the morning, when meetings unfold over the

wallpaper, are a mix of private lairs featuring

likes of pancakes slicked with ricotta and apple

bespoke beds that incorporate vintage fireplace

butter. Just past the 1950s white Egyptian tiles

mantels into the headboard, and communal

and bevy of plants at the reception desk, Dóttir

rooms with bunks to sleep 4, 6, 8 or 16.

invites with its wood-wrapped columns and a

Throughout the hotel, located in the Central

striking herringbone patterned floor fashioned

Eastside neighbourhood in a former residential

from reclaimed Douglas fir beams that once

building dating from 1912, there is a welcoming,

dressed the train station in Fort Vancouver, just

lived-in vibe. Original apartment doors, for

across the Columbia River from Portland.

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© Jeremy Fenske

© Jeremy Fenske

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Dóttir is led by culinary director Ólafur

For those patrons who crave a more casual

Ágústsson, who heads the kitchen in Reykjavik

experience, content to plunk salt-and-vinegar

and also helped garner Iceland’s first Michelin

fries into Skyr aioli at the oval-shaped bar, their

star at the restaurant Dill. To Ágústsson, the

time at Dóttir is often accentuated by one of

synergy between Reykjavik and Portland

the cocktails. Served in elegant glassware from

is profound. “We wanted to bring a Nordic

brands such as Steelite and Libby, and concocted

sensibility of thoughtful utilisation to the

using Cocktail Kingdom barware, Bar Manager

kitchen, something that felt very much at home

Lydia McLuen, known for her creative drinks at

in Portland. In Iceland, we use every bit of what

such Portland hotspots as Hoxton and Palomar,

we bring in, not taking anything that’s grown

is happy to oblige. “Our cocktails have a Nordic

for us for granted, and Portland felt like a place

nod, some more obviously than others, because

where we could take that approach as well,”

we want to celebrate a location and make the

he reflects.

unfamiliar part of the everyday,” she points out.

His instincts were correct, because night after

Among McLuen’s imaginative tipples are the

night the L-shaped banquette brims with diners

snowy egg white-crowned Swan Dress, an ode to

who eagerly order sharing dishes such as beef

Icelandic singer Björk, melding Danish Aalborg

bavette tartare strewn with trout roe, whey

Taffel Aquavit with pear brandy, lemon, ginger,

caramel-enlivened roasted cabbage, lasagne-

and honey. Dagsson meanwhile is a concoction

like slabs of sunchoke gratin, and scallops

of George Dickel rye, Cocchi Torino sweet

bathed in horseradish milk - all served on

vermouth and Cynar, lifted with Norwegian

crockery from the likes of Tuxton.

Gammel Dansk bitters. And The Duchess, crisp

From the energetic open kitchen, which is framed by narrow glass doors plucked from

and Martini-like, stars Brennivín, Iceland’s signature spirit.

a one-time Cairo bakery, executive chef Alex

“We also incorporate a taste of Oregon,”

Jackson, who cooked at restaurants including

continues McLuen. “For example we use locally

Portland favourite Ned Ludd as well as Sons &

made Clear Creek brandy or the marionberries

Daughters in San Francisco, presides over the

in our Devil in the Rose City. One of the greatest

Nordic-by-Northwest menu.

delights has been collaborating with Alex in

“During my time at Sons & Daughters, cooking with seasonal ingredients was the focus,

the kitchen to create drinks that might feature something like Skyr.”

and I’ve now been able to bring that approach

When the rooftop bar – appropriately

to Dóttir and take it to a new level,” Jackson

called Lady of the Mountain, the national

explains. “When we opened, it was important to

personification of Iceland – opens in May it will

capture an Icelandic mindset, but it didn’t need

sport a different slew of McLuen-made libations

to be an exact replica; it was more important to

and shine a brighter spotlight on wine. Surely,

translate a European point of view to Portland.

it will be yet another opportunity to amplify

The great thing is that guests here are open and

Kex’s conviviality.

curious, passionate about different cultures, so we’ve had fun introducing our food to them.”

IN A BITE Owner: Kex Iceland, ChefStable, Green Light Development Interior Design: Hálfdan Pedersen Executive Chef: Alex Jackson Dinnerware: Year & Day, Bargreen, Fishbone, Tuxton, CB2 Glassware: Vintage, Bargreen, Steelite,Libby Barware: Cocktail Kingdom www.kexhotels.com

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The Upper Crust The reinvention of French pastry and the simultaneous reintroduction of classic recipes are upending Paris’ patisserie scene.

Words: Devina Divecha

I

t almost seems de rigueur to eat pastries when

The importance of pastry in the city’s dining

visiting Paris – a city in which patisseries sit on

scene cannot be underestimated. The Salon de la

every corner. There may be differing views on

Pâtisserie de Paris is set to return in June 2020 for

how pastry was invented or became popular, but

its third edition, with an expected 200 exhibitors

its intertwining with French history is certain.

showcasing the art of pastry-making, while hotels

Theories range from the profiterole being

– including the likes of the Mandarin Oriental, Le

invented by an Italian chef who arrived in France

Royal Monceau and Le Meurice – are staffed by

in the 1500s with Catherine de Medici, through to

some of the world’s most highly regarded pastry

Marie-Antoine Carême shooting millefeuille and

chefs, showcasing their passion with afternoon teas

croquembouche to new heights of popularity in

allowing guests to experience the haute cuisine of

the 1800s.

this exacting art.

Whatever its background, there’s no denying the

Mandarin Oriental Paris’ Pastry Chef Adrien

power and allure of French pastries. Nowhere are

Bozzolo says he has noticed an increased interest

they as popular as on the streets of Paris, where

in pastries in recent times, especially those that

pastry chefs in hotels or standalone patisseries

exude a sense of luxury. This, he thinks, might

take this Parisian pastime to an elevated level.

be due to the impact of social media. However, he

Despite the growth of patisserie all over the world

cautions: “We must make sure that pastry does not

(including in the likes of Japan), French pastry is a

just become a visual attraction.” Le Royal Monceau

force to be reckoned with.

Paris’ Executive Pastry Chef Arnaud Coutret agrees, and says that the demand from consumers for visually striking pastries have increased, especially due to the rise of social networks.

In addition to photo-sharing platforms such as Instagram where pastry chefs are now the new rockstars of the culinary world, TV shows that highlight baking and patisserie are also leading to increased interest. Yann Brys, Pastry Chef for Evok Hotels Group, creator of the Tourbillon piping technique and winner of Meilleur Ouvrier de France 2011 (translated as Best Craftsman of France) says that there is currently an undeniably strong interest in patisserie. “The promotion of

DINING

© Romeo Balancourt

Š Courtesy of Mandarin Oriental Paris

DINING

St. Honoré, a vertical creation made by Mandarin Oriental Paris’ Pastry Chef Adrien Bozzolo

our profession in different media and social

Grolet’s ‘grapefruit’ concoction, which marries

networks has increased this interest to enrich

the tangy fruit with chocolate to great effect.

an already very present demand.”

Bozzolo, meanwhile, has created an upright

Brys also admits that, while the likes of

St. Honoré and a vertical tart with seasonal

Instagram support pastry chefs by highlighting

variations, including a cinnamon-mandarin

their creations, it can also lead to challenges.

version. He has also worked on a chocolate

“This network is enriching, but it can have

and exotic fruit dessert using a technique that

a perverse effect. Creations take time and

involves an acetate sheet cut up in a rosette –

sometimes some people see it more as a library

showcasing real attention to the finer details.

and imitate, forgetting that inspiration should spark creation,” he notes.

Le Royal Monceau Paris’ Coutret says there has definitely been a return to classics and

There is, however, a positive side to social

traditional techniques – but with a twist. “For

media; it stimulates chefs to create innovations

example, we rework the puff pastry to give it a

and improve existing techniques says Coutret,

new shape, a new angle. We bring new shapes

noting: “These give us the opportunity to share

and textures to a choux pastry for a unique taste.

our profession and our passion with everyone.”

Classics such as Paris-Brest or La Fôret Noire

Learning through inspiration and allowing

are being brought up-to-date with new flavours

the art of pastry to evolve has meant new

Maintaining identity is crucial for this long-

is a concern for pastry consumers in general,

standing industry, and Brys says that the most

as Mandarin Oriental Paris’ Bozzolo explains:

important thing when it comes to pastry is

“Parisian people are desiring pastries with

to respect its values. “A good pastry is made

a lower sugar and fat content and healthier

from the very best ingredients according to

options.” Coutret agrees and says: “There is

my vision of our profession,” he explains. “We

a desire for naturalness and a return to raw

are observing a return to classics, which our

products such as unrefined sugar, honey,

customers are very keen on. There’s nothing

maple syrup and whole dried fruit powder. Such

better than a good millefeuille, a nice lemon

changes are also suitable for gluten-free and

tart or a Paris-Brest.”

into a new era.”

However,

this

is

not

to

say

that

experimentation and innovation has not been

To evolve, thinking about the presentation of

witnessed. The inventor of the cronut, for

pastries and redesigning or reinventing classics

example, is originally from the outskirts of

is essential. The use of fruit and tart flavours to

Paris, and the chefs in the capital are not above

cut the sweet sensations expected in pastry is

creating twists that delight.

moving in fantastical directions; think of Cédric

ARNAUD COUTRET

and visuals, without losing their identity.”

consumer trends. Perhaps paradoxically, health

vegan customers, and enable pastry to evolve

“Classics such as Paris-Brest or La Fôret Noire are being brought upto-date with new flavours and visuals, without losing their identity.”

“Consumers are interested in the constant

083

DINING

“I create my own shapes which allows me to give a strong identity to each creation.”

YANN BRYS

Paris’ pastry chefs are experimenting with new techniques and ingredients to impress both locals and tourists alike

discovery of new products and in a Palace

each property under its umbrella. “The identity

hotel, we have the chance of offering exclusive

of each hotel is different and therefore a rich

pastries with little known products,” says

source of inspiration,” he says. “I create my

Coutret. Experimenting during festive periods

own shapes, which allows me to give a strong

also offers a way in which Parisian pâtissiers

identity to each creation. At Sinner for example,

can showcase their latest innovations.

I imagined a carved wooden block reminiscent of

For Le Royal Monceau Paris’ last yule log,

compressed wood in a universe of burnt wood.

Coutret and his team created a large chocolate

A very graphic creation with very interesting

wheel measuring in at an impressive 39cm in

aromatic notes.”

height. At its base lay a yule log for eight people.

The yule log at the group’s Philippe Starck-

The big wheel was entirely made of chocolate

designed Brach property was also a hit. “Beyond

with a crank handle that enabled the wheel to

the shape, I had fun imagining a combination

rotate with eight baskets containing macaroons,

of sweet gourmet products such as caramel and

nougat and caramel. “The originality of this

citrus fruits spiced up with notes of candied

yule log came from its chocolate structure,

olives,” he notes. “Creation has no limits except

which enabled an interaction with the product

that of taste, which must remain essential.”

that consumers could then taste,” he explains.

As the director of sweet creations for Evok Hôtels Collection, Brys conceives dishes for

© Romeo Balancourt

© Lou Groseiller

084

PASSION FOR BUFFET

Our expertise for your luxury buffet presentation

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SIGNATURE Spaghetti with Ham, Ceps and Black Truffle Le Cinq Four Seasons Hotel George V PARIS

Boasting an impressive global portfolio

take on truffle and ham spaghetti served

of 18 dining establishments and 27

at Le Cinq, a sophisticated gastronomic

Michelin stars, Four Seasons’ culinary

experience at Hotel George V in Paris. An

pedigree continues to shine with its latest

indulgent interpretation of a much-loved

gastronomical initiative, Masterdishes,

classic, the French chef was inspired by

which seeks to put its very best menu

memories from his childhood, adding

items in the spotlight.

truffle and cep mushrooms to Prince de

Voted for by guests, followers and locals alike, the most iconic dishes, such as

Paris ham and parmesan cheese to create a refined and delicious pasta gratin.

Michelin-starred chef Anne-Sophie Pic’s

To prepare the dish, perfectly al dente

White Millefeuille – comprising crispy

noodles are tossed in butter and cheese

triple-folded puff pastry, Tahitian vanilla

and carefully laid out side by side to

cream and jasmine jelly – showcase

form the walls of a rectangle, while

flavour mastery, passion and technique

the remaining ingredients are glazed in

and are as distinct as the artisans who

jus and drizzled with truffle cream. To

created them.

finish, the exterior is topped with a thin

One of the coveted delicacies on the list is Executive Chef Christian Le Squer’s

parmesan crust and delicately adorned with gold leaf.

SIGNATURE

Lobster Thermidor Tart The Grill at The Dorchester LONDON

Heralding the beginning of a new chapter for The Grill at The

Conceived by Booton and Sous Chef Adam Nevin, bold

Dorchester, Tom Booton, the restaurant’s youngest ever head

flavours of cheddar cheese pastry, Lyonnaise onions and

chef, brings his fresh and vibrant style of cooking to one of

fudge mushrooms are paired with eggy thermidor foam and

London’s most iconic establishments.

sauce poured around the tart. Served in a minimalist Tarron

“As part of the relaunch of the restaurant we wanted to really strip back all the formalities of a fine dining experience

Cacha bowl by Goodfellow, the dish is finished with roasted lobster tail.

to allow for the food to take centre stage,” notes Booton. “We

“The strength of flavour from the cheddar and onion

thought about the classic thermidor dish and how we could

matches really well with the sweetness of the lobster. It is

modernise it to fit with the new era of the restaurant. The

a buttery dish made even more flavoursome with the rich

dish is a lot cleaner than you would expect from a thermidor

bisque,” says the chef. “Everyone loves it and it’s become

tart, but still keeps that powerful flavour.”

the must-try dish on the menu.”

AF_AnuncioSupper_Texture_236x275.pdf

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03/02/2020

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SIPPING

Canary Crush Stepping out of the shadow of Europe’s top vineyards, the quality and rarity of Canary Island wines is increasingly becoming an advantage for hotels looking for a point of difference.

Words: Nina Caplan

W

hen it comes to wine,

“Normally guests are very interested,” says

there are no hoteliers in

David Tacoronte, F&B Manager of Meliá Jardines

Bordeaux or Rioja cursing

del Teide hotel in Tenerife. “They find out that

their luck. Many guests

the Canary Islands have lots of wineries, that

come to the region largely

the wine is fruity, delicious and easy to drink.

because of the wines, and

It can be a bit more expensive than some wines

most of those who haven’t will be eager to try

on the list, but they like to taste local products.”

them in situ, anyway. A wine region that doesn’t

In summer, Tacoronte holds daily tastings

have that kind of name recognition must work

where guests can try the wines for free,

harder. But for those that do, there’s the added

alongside a tapa or two. This gives them the

element of surprise. Most first-time visitors

confidence to order those wines, or others

love the idea of making a discovery, and if that

that are local, with dinner – despite the higher

discovery is delicious – and unavailable or hard

prices. His next posting is to the Meliá in Las

to find elsewhere – then so much the better.

Palmas, Gran Canaria, where he intends to

The Canary Islands are an excellent example

introduce a similar initiative.

of this. Historically, they have attracted a

This makes sense: at Seaside Palm Beach, in

large, enthusiastic but not terribly discerning

Maspalomas on the other side of Gran Canaria,

crowd, though this was changing even before

Maitre d’Hotel Joao Dos Santos is already doing

Thomas Cook collapsed last year. Boutique

something similar and finding it very popular.

hotels have started to pop up; larger properties

“Once a week, we hold tastings for guests who

have set their sights on the premium market.

are interested in local wines, accompanied by

Visits by Bruce Springsteen and Sting (and their

typical tapas,” he says. This provides a route

enormous entourages) in 2012 to Gran Canaria

into their wide selection of local wines available

and Tenerife, respectively, surely didn’t hurt.

in the restaurant, La Bodega, as well as an

The islands are just four hours’ flight from

informal introduction to the staff who can help

the UK, with no time difference, year-round

with their wine choices. “Although these wines

sunshine and the relaxed hospitality familiar

are fairly young and the local grape varieties

from the Spanish mainland. They also have

– volcanic Malvasia for white, Listán Negro

excellent wine that, because it is unfamiliar,

for red – aren’t well known, the quality is

offers the opportunity to give guests an entirely

excellent,” says Santos. This also helps avoid any

unexpected treat.

confusion. The restaurant has wines from the

091

SIPPING

“Although the wines are fairly young and the local grape varieties – volcanic Malvasia for white, Listán Negro for red – aren’t well known, the quality is excellent.”

JOAO DOS SANTOS

© Jose Carlos Guerra

092

island – but also El Grifo and Los Bermejos, two

good for keeping vines safe. He has vines that

of Lanzarote’s best, and others from Tenerife.

are 200-years-old, maybe more. They are as

Styles, like the islands themselves, vary widely.

thick as a torso and make superb wine. He is

It’s vital to reassure guests that what they want

on Tenerife’s chilly northern side, 90 minutes’

is what they are ordering.

drive from the south’s sunshine, where most

Canary wines haven’t always been so

of the hotels are. All that rain is excellent for

underappreciated. Shakespeare wrote about

agriculture – “we have to cut the grass ten times

them; so did Casanova. But they fell out of

a year here” – but bad for tourism, meaning

fashion in the 19th century, and only recently

that the hotels showcasing his wines are as

have local winemakers started to concentrate

important to him as he is to them.

on quality rather than quantity. “The first

Like Jonatán, Roberto Santana of Envinate

vines were planted on Tenerife in 1497,” says

has no winery or shop, so the relationship with

Jonatán García Lima of Suertes del Marqués

hotels is mutually beneficial: along with select

winery. Ships travelling to the Americas from

restaurants, they are the only way to discover

Europe would stop here and take on wine – a

his wines. He doesn’t do tours – he lacks the

safer and more durable liquid to have on board

capacity. “When we open the cellar it’s like

than water.

opening our house,” he says, surrounded by

The Canaries never had phylloxera, the

pallets of oak barrels full of fermenting grape

dreaded louse that destroyed Europe’s vineyards

juice. However, thanks to a particularly good

in the late 19th century. Partly, that’s because

relationship with a sommelier at The Ritz-

of the porous volcanic soil, but Jonatán reckons

Carlton Abama, he will occasionally open up

that it’s also because, for centuries, nobody

for their guests – a nice additional service for a

came here, which was terrible for trade, but

hotel to be able to offer wine-lovers.

The oldest Wine House in Champagne: Aÿ 1584 SUPPER_GOSSET GRVGROS PLAN_03/2019.indd 1

04/03/2019 14:30

SIPPING

094

The quality and rarity of Canary Island wines

(“flavours of stone fruit”) and the same grape

with prawns cooked with wheat from northern

is a major advantage for hotel restaurants

in the north (“much more mineral and austere,

Lanzarote, and waxes lyrical about Agala, a

looking for a point of difference. Kabuki at

like Albariño”).

superb white from Gran Canaria (“tropical nose,

The Ritz-Carlton Abama, is a Japanese-themed

And in fact, the wines are a great way to think

but in the mouth it recalls Chablis and Puligny-

restaurant with a Michelin star; it has an

about differences in the landscape. Tenerife

Montrachet”). His commentary, paired with the

impressive international wine list, of course,

has that wet, green north and dry south; the

wines, in a restaurant overlooking the beach,

but young sommelière Tara can also ably

southern half of Lanzarote is a moonscape of

offers a tour of the islands that requires nothing

demonstrate how well Canary Island wines work

black volcanic soil, the vines planted in small

but curiosity and a good appetite. Which is a

with Japanese food. “Locals don’t believe we

individual depressions to protect them from

major advantage. In an archipelago where

have good wine here but the foreign guests are

strong winds. In La Geria, on Lanzarote, it’s

most islands make wine, and the classification

really interested,” she says, serving a pleasantly

a delight to visit El Grifo winery, with its

system is irritatingly complicated, these hotels

sulphurous sparkling wine made from Listán

small wine museum, which claims to be the

offer guests a relaxed and delicious route to

Negro that goes beautifully with the sourness

Canaries’ oldest winery; or Los Bermejos, a

learning about their location.

of umeboshi (pickled plum-like Japanese fruits)

beautiful old winery that has been here since

They also, perhaps unintentionally, provide

served with local asparagus.

the massive volcanic eruption of 1730 and has an

a marketing service. Joan, sommelier at M.B,

Another of the hotel’s fine-dining restaurants,

18th-century wine press on display. But really,

the Abama outpost of Basque chef Martín

Mirador, prides itself on an exceptional range

for an enjoyably thorough tour of the vinous

Berasategui, points out that Berasategui now

of hard-to-access local wines to match with

possibilities, the best recourse is the spectacular

serves Canary wines in his three-star restaurant

local dishes. “I’d rather give people local wines

wine list at a restaurant such as Isla de Lobos,

in San Sebastián. Those haunting flavours may

than Sancerre or Chablis,” says their sommelier

at Princesa Yaiza Suite Hotel Resort, 20 minutes

well persuade diners to visit the source; if they

Andres, going on to explain the difference

from La Geria. Victor, the sommelier, matches

do, the islands’ sommeliers will be waiting to

between the Listán Blanco grown in the south

wine from neighbouring island La Gomera

further expand their horizons.

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COCKTAIL

COCKTAIL

Don’t Burst My Bubble Travelle at The Langham CHICAGO

Travelle at The Langham, Chicago has

Nora glass, the blend is garnished with seasonal

partnered with drinks brand Moët Hennessy

flowers around its base, as well as the essential,

to introduce its new cocktail collection The

handcrafted, jasmine smoke bubble, which is

Luxury Opuses. Created by the bar’s current

delicately placed atop the concoction.

Mixologist Slava Borisov in collaboration with

“There is a buzz inside and outside of the bar

its former Mixologist James Urycki, the offering

surrounding this cocktail,” comments Borisov.

comprises Godfather, Caviar and Terroir, and

“Each time we prepare it, guests gather to take

the showstopping Don’t Burst My Bubble, each

a video of the process and the exciting moment

telling its own story through delicious flavours

when the jasmine bubble bursts. No one knows

and charming presentations.

exactly when it will happen; but the impact of

The concept for Don’t Burst My Bubble originated with the idea of creating a libation topped with an intriguing smoke-filled bubble.

To create the swill, a choice between V.S.O.P., XO or Paradis Imperial Hennessy cognac is balanced with herbaceous V.E.P. Green Chartreuse, freshly squeezed citrus juice, sugar syrup and a touch of aromatic bitters. Shaken together and strained into an ornate Nick and

this moment is undeniable.”

COCKTAIL

Semiotic Martini Savage Garden DoubleTree by Hilton TOWER OF LONDON

Situated in close proximity to the Tower of London, sky-high bar Savage Garden at DoubleTree by Hilton draws inspiration from the area’s gruesome history, resulting in a revamped cocktail menu where foolish and treacherous couplings mingle with dangerous and mesmeric tastes.

Conjured up by Head Bartender, Kristian Smith, otherwise known as the Dark Lord Mixologist, the Semiotic Martini is a bitter-sweet tipple. The concoction is made from a hedonistic blend of Crystal Head Vodka, Tomaso Agnini walnut vermouth, Pampelle grapefruit aperitif and Seedlip Grove, finished with a homemade pineapple and champagne foam, topped with a caramel cracker flavoured with walnut, which showcases dry, fruity and refreshing notes. “We wanted to make sure that the drinks are well-balanced, taste amazing, look incredible, smell good and are memorable,” explains Smith.

Semiotic Martini is served in a Bespoke Barware black martini glass, which provides a strong visual contrast against the white foam. Like many of the new additions it focuses on paying homage to the past whilst also providing a playful twist of flavour translated through strange and unlikely ingredients, and is best enjoyed overlooking the site of devilish deeds below.

© Jodi Hinds

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“You’ve got really exciting suppliers.”

Jessica Worden, Coffee Manager, GAIL’s Bakery

Want to improve your tea, coffee and soft beverage offering?

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Savvy beverage buyers are registering in their 1000’s to attend the leading soft beverage event for the F&B industry - here’s why: • BARISTA MASTERCLASSES - starring the very best, award-winning Baristas • SOFT DRINKS TALKS & TASTING (NEW!) - curated by the experts at Club Soda, promoting the strong case for improving sales & profits by serving a better range of soft beverages • ROASTERY MASTERCLASS LIVE! - showcasing the best coffee roasters in the land together with live roasting • TEA WORKSHOP THEATRE - revitalised for 2020 and curated by Lucy Chappell from the London School of Tea, these sessions will show operators how they can boost profits with a great tea offering • PREMIUM SOFT & NON-ALCOHOLIC DRINKS (NEW!) - a vast range of soft beverage suppliers including great no and low alcoholic drinks • THE TEA QUARTER - packed with a vast range of tea suppliers • SCA UK LATTE ART CHAMPIONSHIP – find out who is the new champion • All this plus 100’s of exhibitors and 1,000’s of visitors If you’re responsible for purchasing great coffee, tea, soft drinks, and the equipment and accessories required to prepare and serve them, then you need to visit. No other event presents so many soft beverage suppliers and products all under one roof.

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A showcase of best in class.”

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19/02/2020 15:02

DRINKS

Brut 12 Ans de Cave a Minima Gosset With only 12,000 bottles of this special champagne ever made, Gosset Brut 12 Ans de Cave a Minima is truly exclusive. Combining wines from several harvests, the cuvée is made from 51% Chardonnay and 49% Pinot Noir sourced from various regions.

Skipping malolactic fermentation in order to preserve the character of the terroir and to ease the passing of time, the bottles were left to age for no less than 12 years, allowing for the champagne to retain its freshness whilst developing vinosity, complexity and fullness.

The impact of long lees ageing upon malic acidity slows down and suspends the effect of time, whilst the effervescence works in favour of the wine. Well-protected from oxidation, Gosset Brut 12 Ans de Cave a Minima attains an unprecedented balance of vitality and maturity.

“The revelation of great aromatic complexity, with plum, citrus peel and liquoricedpeppermint is followed by a lively, ample and long palate,” comments Cellar Master Odilon de Varine. “Ginger and candied lemon revive the final note, creating a champagne for true wine and food lovers.”

www.champagne-gosset.com

101

DRINKS

Malted Rye Whisky Stauning Born from a story of friendship, entrepeneurship and curiosity, Stauning’s straight rye whisky boasts warm, fresh, spicy, bold and full-bodied characteristics. Appearing to be considerably older than its age suggests, the spirit is unique for its use of only malted rye and barley in its creation, conjuring the scent of freshly baked rye bread.

“The rye and barley are both malted and the spirit is double distilled in small pot stills,” says Stauning’s co-founder Hans Martin Hansgaard. “The mashbill and whiskytype is American in style, the production method is Scottish, and they are joined together in Denmark to make an outstanding Danish Rye Whisky.”

Left to age on Virgin American White Oak casks, the spirit gains beautiful colour and flavours, resulting in a complex product with a full-bodied taste and lots of nuances to explore. “The profile is fruity, the spirit seems fat and you can taste the raw materials,” concludes Hansgaard.

All processes are completed by hand, and Stauning handles the malting of the rye to result in a more intricate, considered and unique finished product.

The whisky is perfect for making classic cocktails such as Old Fashioned, Whisky Sours and Manhattans, as well as more unique Nordic-inspired swills, such as a Nordic Manhattan – a Scanhattan, if you will.

www.stauningwhisky.com

102

The 1862 experience, created to ensure the same premium coffee taste in every single cup served.

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DRINKS

Blood Orange Beefeater

Gin Distillery Tour x Palé Hall The Dyfi Distillery

Blood Orange is a bold and refreshing expression of Beefeater’s famous gin. Taking inspiration from orange gin distilled by founder James Burrough in 1876, the new spirit builds upon the brand’s legacy of experimentation. Created to meet a growing trend in fruit-flavoured alcohol, the gin is characterised by a bitter-sweet juicy flavour, as well as a vibrant, striking colour. The spirit is made in London under the watchful eye of Beefeater’s Master Distiller Desmond Payne MBE, who comments that “Blood Orange is for today’s cocktail and spritz drinkers who will love its enticing citrus aromas, bold flavours and statement shade.” To serve, mix with tonic, serve in a goblet over ice, and garnish with a slice of blood orange.

Palé Hall, North Wales’ first five-star hotel, has announced a collaboration with Dyfi Distillery to offer guests a special package that incorporates a charming tour of the site where the brand’s renowned gin is created. Upon arrival at the hotel, guests enjoy a light lunch before being taken to the distillery for a tour with co-owner Danny Cameron. Running for two hours, the tour showcases how regional influences can determine a gin’s flavour, explaining how locally foraged Welsh botanicals and natural spring waters root Dyfi gin firmly in this part of Wales. Rounding off the experience, upon return to the hotel is a five-course tasting menu, but not before an aperitif of Dyfi-based cocktails.

www.beefeater.co.uk

104

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24/02/2020 12:30

Maximising the Opportunity in the US Hotel Market In the second installment of a new series of features, Supper delves into a research report from Nielsen CGA to offer insight into the dining and imbibing behaviour of the hotel guest.

In recent years, the traditional hotel model has evolved, with restaurants and bars increasingly contributing to the bottom line, and in some cases, generating more revenue than rooms.

Knowing the guest – their demographic profile, needs and preferences – is cruicial to maximise this opportunity.

As such, Nielsen CGA has conducted an online survey with a nationally representative sample of 5,000 consumers, gleaning insight into the sector. Revealing why, what, when and where hotel guests chose to drink, the report touches on several key areas including profiling the hotel consumer, the services being utilised, consumption behaviour and experience. Armed with this understanding, the report enables retailers, distributors, suppliers and hoteliers to make strategic, data-driven decisions as they expand into new areas of the hospitality industry.

106

TOP FIVE FACILITIES USED BY HOTEL CONSUMERS Unsurprisingly, food and drink dominate the most-used facilities in hotels, with the restaurant, bar and lounge playing a key role. The data shows that over half of US consumers make use of the on-site restaurant rather than leaving the premises.

Breakfast

Restaurant

Bar / lounge

Vending machine

Room service

64%

52%

41%

35%

29%

TOP DRINK CATEGORY BY TIME OF DAY There are clear roles for various drinks categories throughout the day, with French champagne the top choice at brunch, and cocktails dominating from late evening.

Brunch

Lunch

Mid-afternoon 14:00-17:00

Early evening 17:00-20:00

Late evening 20:00-22:00

Late night 22:00-onwards

French champagne

Domestic non-craft beer

Domestic non-craft beer

Table wine

Cocktails

Cocktails

MARKET INSIGHT

UNDERSTANDING THE HOTEL CONSUMER There are four different groups visiting hotels – the business consumer, the celebration consumer, the food and drink occasion consumer and the overnight stay consumer. Understanding the needs, preferences and spend of each group is key to winning business as well as encouraging loyalty and repeat visits.

THE BUSINESS CONSUMER

THE CELEBRATION CONSUMER

The business consumer – those who have visited a hotel for a meeting or conference within the last 12 months, or have stayed overnight for work purposes – is more likely to be male, with wine their preferred beverage.

The celebration consumer is more likely to be female and spends more on beverages than food; they prefer to drink cocktails rather than wine or beer.

WINE is the top alcohol category for the business consumer Spend per day on alcoholic beverages

$28.67

Average age

42 Male

Female

59% | 41%

COCKTAILS are the top choice for those visiting hotels for a celebration Spend per day on alcoholic beverages

$33.08

Average age

42 Female

Male

45% | 55%

THE FOOD AND DRINK OCCASION CONSUMER

THE OVERNIGHT STAY CONSUMER

Those visiting hotels specifically for its dining facilities spend more on alcoholic beverages than any other consumer type, with wine again being the preferred tipple.

The overnight stay consumer – those who have visited a hotel on holiday, for a weekend break or as a stopover as part of a longer trip – is slightly older than other groups and has a lower daily spend.

WINE is the top alcohol category for the food and drink occasion consumer Spend per day on alcoholic beverages

$37.07

Average age

42 Male

Female

60% | 40%

COCKTAILS are the top choice for the average overnight guest Spend per day on alcoholic beverages

$26.76

Average age

47 Male

Female

50% | 50%

These pages feature extracts from Nielsen CGA’s report, Maximising the Opportunity in the US Hotel Market, published in April 2019. To learn more, email hello@nielsencga.com and quote SUPPERHOTEL2019 for an exclusive discount. www.cga.co.uk

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CM

MY

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CMY

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EVENTS DIARY

13-17 MAR

15-17 MAR

30-1 MAR

31-3

MAR-APR

Internorga Hamburg www.internorga.com

ProWein Düsseldorf www.prowein.com

To The Table MEA Abu Dhabi www.tothetablemea.com

Forty-One Madison New York www.41madison.com

21-23 APR

16-19 MAY

19-20 MAY

9-10 JUN

To The Table Europe Vienna www.tothetableeurope.com

NRA Chicago www.nationalrestaurantshow.com

European Coffee Expo London www.europeancoffeeexpo.com

Bar Convent Brooklyn Brooklyn www.barconventbrooklyn.com

10

JUN

18-20 JUN

13-16 JUL

4-8

SEPT

AHEAD Americas Miami www.aheadawards.com

World of Coffee Warsaw www.worldofcoffee.org

FHA-Horeca Singapore www.fhahoreca.com

Maison & Objet Paris www.maison-objet.com

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© Jonathan Jacob

Top Drawer 12-14 January 2020 LONDON

The latest edition of Top Drawer, one of the

series, which provided in-depth discussions

UK’s leading lifestyle and design trade shows,

between top hospitality operators. Talks

returned to Olympia London this January -

were specifically crafted to stimulate ideas

welcoming a strong cohort of designers and

and generate discussion and included panels

exhibitors, including high profile names in

on sustainability in design, which looked at

tableware and kitchenware, alongside over

groundbreaking hospitality concepts and eco-

1,000 carefully selected brands from across the

friendly products, whilst renowned interior

fashion, wellbeing and retail sectors.

designer Oliver Heath looked at the positive

Over the years, the three-day event has firmly

“Top Drawer January 2020 has been the

for discovering new names, and this year’s

best show yet,” says Dan Flower, Owner of

Pulse Spotted area was dedicated to giving those

AIM Brands UK. “A well-considered edit of

in attendance an exclusive look at new, retail-

quality brands and a steady flow of visitors

ready names. Meanwhile, household hospitality

across all three days. Top Drawer is the perfect

brands including Broste Copenhagen, Eva

platform to launch a premium brand allowing

Solo, Serax, Seletti and Zaim Design Studio,

you to physically and personally engage with

showcased their latest products to buyers from

your target audience. In a quickly evolving

across the UK and Europe, as well as Australia,

and challenging retail environment, I would

New Zealand and Japan, amongst others.

encourage all retailers to take advantage of the

In addition to product insight and retail opportunities, visitors were also given access to several seminars including the Design Talk

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impact of biophilic design.

positioned itself as one of the principal exhibits

diverse and vibrant exhibitor assortment on offer.”

www.topdrawer.co.uk

EVENTS

© Richard Pereira

To The Table MEA and Europe 30 March-1 April 2020 21-23 April 2020 ABU DHABI / VIENNA

To The Table - one of the leading global

To The Table Europe will run from 21-23

hospitality events connecting key figures in the

April at InterContinental Hotel Vienna, with

world of F&B - has released details about its

representatives from Jupiter Hotels, Kempinski,

forthcoming MEA and Europe editions.

Marriott International and Pestana Hotel Group

Taking place at Abu Dhabi’s St. Regis Hotel

among the high-profile buyers. Providing an

from 30 March - 1 April, To The Table MEA

interlude from the pre-arranged meetings,

will welcome 60 senior decision makers and

Heleri Rande, Supper’s Consulting Editor

buyers from across the industry, including F&B

will host the seminars, which will include

Directors from AccorHotels, Emaar Hospitality

acclaimed British chef Tom Aitken discussing

Group and Hilton Worldwide. Joining them

the challenges in modern kitchens; and James

will be top suppliers to the restaurant industry

Hacon, Chief Executive of Think Hospitality

with categories spanning tableware, cutlery,

exploring why F&B matters and how to turn a

glassware, buffetware, coffee machines and

guest service into a strategic asset.

food and beverages.

For many delegates, the success of the event

The seminar programme, hosted by Middle

series is directly correlated to the show’s

Eastern hospitality expert Devina Devicha,

ability to attract newcomers while also keeping

will include insight into restaurant innovation

long-term attendees engaged, and this year’s

in the era of sustainability from Christian

extensive programme of seminars is sure to

Gradnitze, Senior Director of F&B Operations

provide plenty of food for thought as well as

EMEA at Hilton Worldwide and Jonathon Heath of Six Senses; as well as a look at the impact of Expo2020 on Dubai’s restaurant scene.

invaluable deal-making opportunities.

www.tothetablemea.com www.tothetableeurope.com

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© Gilbert Kossek

© Katharina Schiffl

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SPOTLIGHT

Strong Origins Expert coffee roasters Julius Meinl has been at the forefront of Viennese café culture for more than 150 years, using its sustainable principles, family values and innovative products to set the global coffee agenda.

Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: © Courtesy of Julius Meinl (unless otherwise stated)

I

t is estimated that every year more than 40

for future generations, we – as individuals and

with the further expansion of The Originals

billion cups of coffee are consumed globally,

companies – have to take action. For us in the

Collection – a mix of speciality-graded seasonal

earning the humble bean pride of place as the

coffee industry, it means adopting sustainable

single origins and espresso blends from small-

practices from bean to cup.”

lot farmers around the world.

world’s most popular beverage. But as appetites for artisan blends and premium brews continue

Supplying more than 70 countries worldwide

Filtering into the hotel sphere, as the

to grow, so too does the need for the industry

and as one of the top three premium brands

exclusive coffee supplier for Hilton Hotels &

to champion initiatives that aim to reduce the

in over 40 countries, Julius Meinl are market

Resorts in Europe and MEA, they have been able

environmental impact of harvesting and roasting

leaders with an astute understanding of the

to work with the group to increase certificated

practices, whilst also supporting the growers

role that they can play in boosting the global

coffee products and also find solutions to reduce

who are fundamental to the sector’s future.

agenda. “Currently, we are looking at where we

plastic waste; as demonstrated by the inclusion

Expedited by the impact of climate change,

can clean up our own house before moving on

of biodegradable capsules in guestrooms across

sustainability serves as more than a buzzword

to the external parts of our value chain. Our

some of the hotel’s properties.

for those operating in the hospitality space, and

focus is where we can have the most direct

Blending its commitment to innovation, high-

for internationally acclaimed coffee experts

impact starting with our roasting production

quality products and traditional values, Julius

Julius Meinl, the term is at the core of what

facilities,” continues Meinl. “For example, our

Meinl continues to set the standard across the

they do. Established in 1862, it was the first

innovations include processing the seed skins

sector and with its Head of Innovation always

retailer to offer freshly roasted coffee, amongst

of green coffee beans into pellets, to be used

looking for ways to provide the company with

other gourmet foods and grocery goods, and

thermally by energy companies.”

solutions in the face of global change, the future

has been at the forefront of Vienna’s beloved

Taking a multi-pronged approach, and as

looks promising for the fifth-generation coffee

coffee house culture ever since. Built upon five

part of its Columbian Heritage Project, Julius

roasters. “The coffee lover in me knows that

generations of traditional values and guided

Meinl is also investing in upskilling famers and

the culture goes beyond the cup; it’s a lifestyle,

by a vision to make the world a more poetic

providing UTZ certifications to ensure growers

we have to understand what drives coffee lovers

place, the company is dedicated to innovation

are less susceptible to the volatility of market

- from passions like travel and poetry to new

and has in recent years launched a number of

conditions. Never compromising on taste and

sustainability goals in the hope of being able to

quality, the goal is to provide the best coffee

act as a bellwether for change.

experience possible.

Guided by its Head of Innovation, Christina

One of the company’s newest offerings

Meinl, who was also recently appointed to the role

includes cold and nitro brews. “For many

of President of the Speciality Coffee Association

years, I was inspired by the trend sweeping

(SCA), she is well placed to take the company’s

Asia and North America and wanted to give

ambitious plans forward. “No industry can

aficionados a unique taste,” professes Meinl.

simply pay lip service to sustainability any

Similarly, they will continue to play their part

more,” says Meinl. “To safeguard our planet

in the enhancement of the craft coffee market

behaviours like sustainable living.”

www.meinlcoffee.com

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Tri by Figgjo

SPOTLIGHT

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Setting the Scene

www.

When it comes to creating a cohesive dining concept, thoughtfully selected crockery has the power to elevate, transform and inspire.

Words: Jenna Campbell

M

ost would agree that when dining out, our opinion

that are in vogue and the eating habits of the consumer. Likewise,

is predicated on both the quality of the food that we

with the continued presence of social media making it easier

eat and the service we receive. However, it is also the

than ever to instantly share our thoughts on an experience.

case that a memorable meal requires a combination of other

The rise of fast-casual dining has particularly impacted

factors, not least a thoughtfully created tabletop. When it comes

these decisions, with more relaxed, colourful styles of crockery

to reflecting a restaurant’s brand, design and concept, food

taking hold across the sector, as illustrated by the popularity of

presentation is key, which is why the procurement of crockery

mix-and-match sharing platters and plates designed for finger

is just as important as the cuisine itself.

food, as diners embrace a street-food style of eating. In more

A study by Professor Charles Spence – a leader in gastrophysics,

traditional fine dining establishments, the prevailing rationale

who has worked with Heston Blumenthal and Jozef Youssef

has been to select stylish white crockery that provides a base

– found that well-presented food is often perceived as better

for unique flavours and intricate techniques to take centrestage.

tasting. Similarly, the colour, texture and shape of a plate can

While classic continues to be a favourite, chefs are increasingly

heavily influence perception of flavour, quality and value for

working directly with ceramicists to create artisanal, rustic

money. Furthermore, the style of tableware not only impacts

shapes for their tableware for added character.

diners but the chef’s creative process, which means that those in

In a sector that is fundamental to the culinary experience,

charge of procurement will often work closely with the kitchen

innovation, adaptability and quality is key. The following pages

to select crockery that brings the culinary vision to life.

highlight some leading crockery brands, whose latest tableware

There is little doubt that tableware trends in the hospitality industry will continue to evolve, much like the styles of cuisines

collections seamlessly enhance menus, enrich tabletops and leave a lasting impression on the diner.

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1. Pure Style Tafelstern

2. Scope Bauscher

3. Botanique Pordamsa

4. Concha Chic

Priding itself on an innovative and a non-conformist approach to exploring new concepts, premium porcelain manufacturers. Tafelstern are known for translating international food trends into versatile tableware collections. One such range is the pine brush variation of its Pure Style collection. Representing an interpretation of modern, rustic décor, haptic ornaments are sand-plastered onto the plate before brushstrokes of tanned, earthy tones are added to create a contemporary look and feel. The lines and linear forms of the plates combine with broad rims to create the perfect stage for the very best cuisine. www.tafelstern.com

Scope, Bauscher’s latest tableware collection, is a minimal assortment of smooth and structured items comprising plates, bowls, dishes and platters.

Available in sleek white, grey and a light green and blue variation, the finish of the coloured versions varies with each piece to convey a handmade and artisanal quality; a particularly sought-after style for many establishments. The range has been created to stand out in the restaurant setting due to its rod relief structure and design, which creates a particularly striking shadow effect thanks to the darker colour nuances in the lower relief rods. www.bauscher.com

Spanish porcelain manufacturer Pordamsa has introduced its latest nature-inspired Botanique collection.

Featuring a combination of gloss and matt glazes, which work to showcase the very best gastronomic creations, the organic forms add interesting textures – similar to the nerves of vine leaves or skin of cocoa beans – adding a sensory value to the dining experience. Representing a symbiosis between the ingredients of the recipes and their place of origin, this stylish range offers chefs the opportunity for even greater culinary creativity and genuine moments of interaction with guests and diners. www.pordamsa.com

The shell-shaped porcelain tableware

by Chic represents a reinterpretation of traditional dining shapes to embrace elements of glamour and Art Deco design.

Round and oval variations combine with a pearly gloss finish to add ambience to any culinary setting. Offering numerous serving options through versatile design and contemporary colour palette, the collection’s diverse shapes and sizes can be assembled to create a cluster of seashells or work as standalone items adding decorative detail, with both options giving restaurants the opportunity to create a dynamic and interesting canvas for sharing food. www.chictableware.com

SPOTLIGHT

No.W Revol Revol challenges industry trends with innovatively designed porcelain dedicated to chefs and foodservice professionals.

As part of its mission to help hotels and restaurants play a role in conserving the planet’s natural resources, the group has introduced a new collection made from recycled ceramic. No.W is made from Revol’s ‘Reclay’ material that purifies industrial wastewater while recovering the mineral matters that come from clay to create a eco-friendly ceramic clay. Comprising plates, bowls, cups and glass flacon and available in three finishes, this handmade collection is robust, sophisticated and truly innovative.

www.revol1768.com

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SPOTLIGHT

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4.

1. Riviera Costa Nova

2. Océan Bleu Haviland

3. Amazōnia with Ecoarts Vista Alegre

4. Crave American Metalcraft

Created in collaboration with prestigious French floral designer Christian Tortu, Costa Nova’s latest collection is inspired by the French and Italian Riviera. This captivating range mixes shapes and colours of the landscape to recreate the sublime and iconic features of the region that shares its name. The collection includes a variety of leaf shapes and is available in a numerous colours including cyan, forest green and terra, which work to create a striking tabletop presentation.

Comprising a number of plating options, the different styles and colours can be mixed and matched to provide an interesting point of difference. www.costa-nova.com

Combining modern tastes with creative craftmanship, Haviland porcelain is known for showcasing artistic flair. It’s latest collection, Océan Bleu draws inspiration from seabeds, translating the motion of waves with an explosion of blue tones. Designed by the manufacturer’s creative workshop, each unique plate is decorated to translate elements of the ocean, from gentle swells to sea spays and also features sea creatures such as jellyfish and rays realised in gold detail.

The collection includes various options for every course including entrée bread and butter plates, through to pasta and dessert dishes. www.haviland.fr

Featuring more than 70 pieces, the Amazōnia collection is inspired by the colourful plants and flowers, as well as the exotic shapes and textures of the flora found in the world’s largest tropical rainforest. Combining utilitarian stoneware pieces with unique and exuberant colour profiles, the range encompasses a number of tableware items including bowls, plates and platters for a range of occasions. Some of the revenues obtained will be donated to the cause of reforestation in the Amazon area of Matos Gross, Brazil, in collaboration with EcoArts – a foundation committed to inspiring ecological regeneration. www.vistaalegre.com

Celebrated for its exceptional melamine durability and timeless design, the Crave collection by American Metalcraft has been reinvigorated with a fresh touch of colour. Available in two vivid tones – dreamy dusk and spirited sage – the range encompasses coupe plates, bowls, bouillon cups and platters; giving restaurants the option to mix-and-match the table setting. First established over 70 years ago, American Metalcraft continues to provide trend-focused, unique products, and its latest range of vibrant and speckled crockery solutions are designed to surpass guest expectations with flying colours. www.amnow.com

VODKA

C R E AT I V E D E S I G N LU X U RY H O S P I TA L I T Y horeca.lsa-international.com

SPOTLIGHT

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2.

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3.

1. Harmony Bento Front of the House

2. Studio Mattes Goodfellows

3. Revolution Steelite International

Front of the House has provided a modern twist to the classic bento plate as part of its Harmony range. Combining traditional influences and contemporary tastes, it represents a fresh approach to compartmental serving and is compatible with plates and bowls from across the wider Harmony collection. Crafted in white porcelain, the forward-thinking set of plates, platters and bowls is finished in a high-gloss to showcase a wide varierty delicacies. Front of the House has a portfolio of more than 2000 items, from distinctive dinnerware and tableware collections and serving pieces to solutionbased, buffet essentials. www.frontofthehouse.com

Spearheaded by husband-and-wife team Paul and Valda Goodfellow, this creative design and distribution business provides hotels, restaurants and contract caterers with highly functional, stylish hospitality solutions. Working closely with ceramicist Charlie Martens, the Studio Mattes tableware range is admired globally by chefs for its bespoke products.

Goodfellows has innovated with a range of materials spanning wood, silver, glass and ceramics, and this crockery collection incorporates earthy tones and textures to provide an ideal backdrop for fresh ingredients and innovative flavours to shine in the dining setting. www.goodf.co.uk

The Revolution range by Steelite represents a celebration of the art of artisanal glazing. Using specially formulated reactive glazes that change in colour and intensity and applied by hand using a revolving motion, every piece is as unique and different as the artisan who created it. Boasting a striking jade colour palette, the range is ideal for elevating any culinary presentation and can be used to showcase a myriad of cuisines, whilst the lifetime edge-chip guarantee warranty, ensures that this bold and innovative collection will withstand the demands of busy and bustling kitchen environments. www.steelite.com

Introducing Stem Zero made with our ‘Ion Shielding Technology’.

Making it the world’s toughest, yet finest lead free crystal glass.

You could say it is beautifully strong.

utopia-tableware.com

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nudeglass.com nudeglass

simple is beautiful

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SPOTLIGHT

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2.

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3.

1. Tri Figgjo

2. Hyggee Bonna

3. Handplate 1handPlate

Designed to be disrupt the table setting, the unique and stylish Tri collection has been created with buffet dining in mind.

Inspired by its Norwegian roots and the local dialect of Figgjo, the collection comprises three serving platters available in a variety of different sizes. The shape has been based around an equilateral triangle but with soft rounded corners, whilst the curvature between the surface and tab is generous and open, resulting in a geometric yet soft finish. It’s organic look and feel means that it can be easily be paired with crockery items from across the Figgjo range, especially rounded bowls and dishes. www.figgjo.com

Blending pure and elegant dining experiences with sustainable design and cutting-edge technology, Turkish Tableware manufacturer Bonna, is committed to creating beautiful culinary settings with its innovative crockery solutions. Led by a concept that is rooted in the brand's universal approach of functionality in design, the Hyggee collection aims to provide chefs with opportunities for unlimited creativity and experimentation. Inspired by the northern hemisphere it showcases creative lines and refined detailing, whilst integrity and simplicity are central to the range’s flexibility and versatility in use. www.bonna.tr

Guided by a quest to push the boundaries in crockery design, 1handPlate has created a plate that allows guests to simultaneously socialise, hand out business cards and enjoy eating and drinking. Inspired by the family’s association with the Faroe Islands, the design is rooted in Nordic aesthetics and takes on a curved form that creates a space in the centre for a glass to easily slot in. Comprising a number of colour variations including intense black, crisp white and charcoal grey, the clean, stackable design is suited to a number of occasions and can accommodate multiple glassware options. www.1.handplate.com

RONA Le Vin Collection

RONA 5 STAR GLASS RONA represents 125 years of glass masters´ skills, as well as contemporary technological excellence. www.rona.glass | sales@rona.sk | +421 424 601 505

RONA - 5 star glass

@rona5starglass

Leading the way Five days that push your business forward by years.

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PETITS FOURS

Aves Hepp Based on the contours of a bird’s wing, Hepp’s latest collection Aves boasts an elegant aesthetic that leaves a lasting impression. Comprising 19 pieces and available in polished stainless steel as well as other finishes on request, it features a spoon with a strikingly shaped bowl as well as a fork, which thanks to its unique ratio of tines to handle and its material thickness of nine millimeters, stands out from the crowd.

This dimension has also been applied to the espresso and lemonade spoons.

www.hepp.de

PETITS FOURS

2.

1.

3.

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4.

1. WMF 1300 S WMF

2. Winewings Riedel

3. A Collection Kentaur

4. Rocket Studio 1765

WMF’s latest addition to its portfolio of catering and hotel solutions, the WMF 1300 S coffee machine delivers a premium performance in a compact, versatile package. Recommended for venues with an average daily requirement of 120 cups, it features optional lockable hoppers, colour customisation and a milk system that ensures the quality of the beverage is consistently high. A reliable choice for all styles of coffee service, the machine can also be linked to WMF’s CoffeeConnect telemetry solution. www.wmf-coffeemachines.com

Following years of experimentation, tasting, benchmarking, sampling and fine-tuning, Austrian glassmaker Riedel, has released its innovative Winewings range. The stylish design comprises seven different glasses for red, white and sparkling wine and is notable for its flat-bottomed design that resembles the wings of an aircraft. The large surface area of the glass base helps to increase the level of evaporation and therefore amplifies the aromas of the chosen beverage for diners and guests. www.riedel.com

Creating workwear tailored for professionals within the world of gastronomy, Kentaur is dedicated to designing functional and sustainable apparel. The A Collection showcases minimalistic, Japanese-inspired design and characteristics such as stand-up collars and narrow sleeves with a patented pull up function to enable enhanced performance. Using topquality materials, the outfits also include integrated pen pockets and aprons with hidden press buttons. www.kentaur.com

Designed by Amilios Grohmann in collaboration with Martin A. Koebke, the Rocket collection by Studio 1765 comprises wine and champagne coolers in a selection of finishes including copper, stainless steel and black. Combining cutting-edge design with functionality, practicality and style, the stackable coolers are available in floorstanding and tabletop versions with removable drip trays, enabling users to cater to a variety of different hospitality environments and interior decors. www.studio1765.com

NRA McCormick Place Chicago, IL May 16-19, 2020 Booth 1068

FieldStoneTM Finish

by WALCO ErikTM 18/10

FLATWARE • STEAK KNIVES • HOLLOWARE • CHAFERS • BUFFETWARE

www.walcostainless.com

PETITS FOURS

Quinton Robert Welch At this year’s Ambiente, Robert Welch Designs unveiled five new ranges for 2020 and outlined three distinct categories of cutlery based on the weight and grade of the materials used. Showcasing a soft curvaceous design, Quinton is made from 3.55mm stainless steel and boasts generous proportions to give it a lighter feel in hand. Its contemporary design, featuring soft pointed handles that add a distinct point of difference, and vintage-finish knife blades, make it a versatile solution for a range of table settings, from fine dining to casual and intimate occasions.

www.robertwelch.com

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WE WILL BE AT

INTERNORGA 2020

Hall B1.EG, Booth 206

EXCELLENT COFFEE INDULGENCE, EFFORTLESS IN ANY ENVIRONMENT. WMF 5000 S+ It’s engineered for high performance and long-term reliability.

With its rich menu of premium coffee specialities, the WMF 5000 S+ has the power and the agility to satisfy all your customers, at the pace they demand.

DE SIGNED TO PERF ORM

wmf.com

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PETITS FOURS

Whisky Club LSA International Inspired by the ambience and luxury associated with members clubs, the Whisky Club collection by LSA International is a contemporary range of cased brown drinkware. Showcasing a rich tone similar to the colour of peat – used to imbue Scotch whisky with a distinctive, smoky flavour – the collection comprises tumblers, decanters, ice buckets and a walnut and cork serving tray. The glassware is designed to elevate the experience of imbibing fine-quality whisky through designs that enhance the drink’s natural and robust flavour profile.

www.lsa-international.com

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LET´S MEET IN SOCIAL MEDIA COME AND JOIN US:

PETITS FOURS

Vision Zieher Zieher’s Vision range has been created with the aim of enhancing the aroma of exquisite wines. Rather than distinguishing between red or white wine glasses, the collection focuses on the different characters of the drink and includes variations such as Fresh, suited to white wines and prosecco; Intense, for opulent, powerful flavours such as middle-aged Bordeaux; and Rich, which is ideal for dessert wines.

The undulating shape of the glass bottom creates an eye-catching ring and the depression in the centre ensures a visually pleasing aesthetic.

www.zieher.com

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PETITS FOURS

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1. Frilich Tampa Bay

2. Columbian Heritage Blend Julius Meinl

3. Smile Inox Trolley Ze Pé

4. Great Scotland Yard Studio 104

At first glance, Frilich’s Tampa Bay collection appears to be made from metal, but on closer inspection it is clear that it has been meticulously crafted using titanium-coated porcelain or glass.

Inspired by the glamour of Art Deco, the range, comprising bowls, boats and plates, is 20% more resistant to breakage than most tableware materials. Available in a variety of colours including gold, silver, green and blue, this versatile range is designed to accentuate a plethora of dining environments. www.frilich.de

The Columbian Heritage Project, an initiative spearheaded by Austrian premium coffee experts Julius Meinl, seeks to support coffee farmers and help them achieve UTZ certification. As the largest programme for sustainable farming of coffee in the world, it is hoped that it will encourage Columbians to remain in the coffee business. The Poesia and Supreme UTZ premium blends containing coffee from Columbia represent a unique celebration of tradition, heritage and excellent taste. www.meinlcoffee.com

Designed by Matthias ScherzingerFreudwerk, the Smile Inox Trolley range

by Italian manufacturer Ze Pé combines practicality with timeless style. Made from oak wood and stainless steel, the collection enables restaurants to interchange between courses and is designed for desserts, hors d’oeuvres and much more. All items in the range are made in Italy using premium materials to ensure that hotels and restaurants are provided with the very best combination of enduring quality and stylish design. www.zepe.com

Studio 104 has collaborated with Great Scotland Yard, a five-star hotel in the former headquarters of the Metropolitan Police, to create a bespoke uniform that reflects the establishment’s illustrious heritage. Taking inspiration from the Yard’s most infamous occupants, female crime syndicate 40 Elephants, the uniform represents a modern take on the past.

This narrative ignited the uniform’s key concept of ‘Inside Out’, a play on ‘Turn Your Pockets Out’, where designs would intentionally show the interiors. www.studio-104.com

Marcus Jernmark, Chef at Restaurant Frantzén, Stockholm, Sweden Michelin

***

YOUR CHOICE OF IMAGE WITH SUSTAINABLE ATTITUDE – DESIGNED TOGETHER WITH CHEFS

Kentaur Fairtrade, worn by jury members at the Culinary Olympics 2020 in Stuttgart.

Visit us and find lots of inspiration at www.kentaur.com

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PETITS FOURS

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1. Ada John Jenkins

2. NTE Dometic

3. Tilt Craster

4. Miravell Bone China Elia

Taking its name from Ada Coleman – a renowned female bartender of the 1920s – the new Ada collection by John Jenkins celebrates its namesake’s 23-year run as Head Bartender at The American Bar in The Savoy, London, as well as her prestige as the inventor of a new tipple; she created the famous Hanky Panky cocktail, which remains a popular concoction almost 100 years on.

The series comprises a goblet, a cocktail and lowball tumbler, and cocktail, bellini, martini, tall coupe and wine glasses. www.johnjenkins.co.uk

Dometic has upgraded two of its 20-litre class minibars with a new noiseless thermoelectric cooling unit (NTE). The models boast significantly reduced electricity costs, consuming around three times less energy than absorption minibars of the same capacity. Users can choose between a solid door version with an A++ energy efficiency index or a glass door model with an A+ rating, with both retaining sensor-controlled LED interior lighting and a cut-out shelf for champagne bottles. www.dometic.com

Tilt, Craster’s latest buffet range, is both unique and flexible, offering multiple opportunities for creative gastronomic expression. Featuring low-profile metal frames available in stainless or black powder-coated steel, the range has been designed to complement a variety of serving solutions. Recent additions to the collection include an eight-litre juice dispenser that is suited to high-volume buffets and the Tilt glass jars featuring walnut lids that sit effortlessly on the edge of the jar. www.craster.com

Created with modern living in mind and using the very best premium bone china, Elia’s Miravell range is designed to elevate the dining experience, whilst also providing strength and long-term durability. The collection combines contemporary design with elegant, classic shapes to create a striking contrast of smooth curves and contours. Bringing a sophisticated edge to the table setting and available in a number specifications including slim and coupe-shaped dishes, all pieces are fully vitrified. www.elia.co.uk

The Uniform Studio – London based – Producing durable and beautiful bespoke workwear www.theuniformstudio.com

info@theuniformstudio.com

Sales: +44 208 361 7745 | Production: + 44 203 735 6926

PETITS FOURS

138

1.

2.

3.

4.

3.

1. Artisan Serving Spoon Tiger

2. Linea Umana Rona

3. Brixton Arcoroc

4. Modbar Modbar

Korean manufacturer Tiger continues to expand its portfolio of buffetware options with a number of flatware solutions.

The Artisan Serving Spoon is made from silicone and measures 27cm in length, making it an ideal specification for pans with a delicate surface. The serving tool is part of a six-piece set and is both dishwasher safe and easy to handle.

Tiger’s buffet range also encompasses modular systems, carving stations, chafing dishes, heating lamps, trolleys and presentation stands. www.tiger.co.kr

Designed in collaboration with awardwinning Italian sommelier Maurizio Dante Fillip, the Linea Umana range by Rona seamlessly balances sophistication and utility. Comprising four wine and two water glasses, the original design combines soft human lines with brilliance and clarity, ensuring wines can be enjoyed at their very best. Made using pulled-stem technology, the ultra-light pieces are characterised by a slightly flared edge and smooth inner surface, which encourages the release of aromas. www.rona.glass

Arcoroc creates comprehensive, highperformance, word-renowned glassware solutions for leading hotels chains, restaurants and bars. Its latest range, Brixton, features a structured design and a masculine shape that is suitable for cocktail bars serving an assortment of beverages including alcoholic spritzers, robust spirits and soft beverages.

Underpinning the design, a heavy sham and jewel-styled aesthetic allows light to be reflected off the glass, providing a showcase for various beverages. www.arcoroc.com

Working with La Marzocco to offer an alternative to countertop coffee equipment, Modbar neatly places the inner workings of espresso machines beneath the counter. An art piece for the countertop, coffee taps in matte, chrome and metal finishes can be elegantly displayed to allow for interaction between barista and customer. The range includes two configurations of espresso system, a pour-over option and a steam system to heighten the experience of imbibing world-class coffee. www.modbar.com

the

POWER

1.360.650.1111

to

PERFORM

woodstone-corp.com

PETITS FOURS

Starlight Stรถlzle Lausitz Stรถlzle is celebrated for mastering the production of the one-piece stem and bowl, resulting in more durable pieces that mimic the features of mouthblown glassware. An example of such innovation is the latest Starlight collection which, combining lightness with elegance, is ideal for high-class gastronomy. Showcasing a slender stem and goblet, which is notably thinner compared to other glasses that are made by machine production, its balanced shape makes it a wellproportioned option for Burgundy, Bordeaux and sparkling wines.

www.stoelzle.com

140

Pengo Group is leader in household products, Horeca and baby items distribution and service since 1953. Based in Bassano del Grappa, it has other two branches in France and Spain, dealing with the international markets. H&H Lifestyle is one of the proprietary brands of the Pengo Company and was born in 2004 to come up as a brand attentive to the new kitchenware trends. H&H is able to meet the demands of a diverse and attentive clients in terms of design, quality, style and price. Our proposals range from home tableware to catering for different needs: it is characterized by the Italian careful research in the balance of shapes, product combinations, design customization aimed at every type of request thanks to its young, dynamic and trendy mood. This is clear in the aperitif bamboo collections with porcelain bowls and cast iron plates, perfect to receive your guests and serve fanciful finger food. Different materials for a unique style which is a sophisticated mix of fashion and quality. www.pengogroup.com | www.hh-lifestyle.it

PETITS FOURS

142

1.

2.

3.

4.

1. Savage Nude

2. Bamboo and Porcelain H&H

3. Champagne Bucket Siom Orfèvres

4. Bellwether Walco

Nude has collaborated with mixologist Remy Savage to create a collection of cocktail glasses. Working with the bartender, the team wanted to create smaller volume items that would pair well with premium spirits. The elegant range featuring classically shaped items ensures that the flavour of the drink is paramount.

“The delicate design means there is as little as possible between the consumer, the drink and the glass,” notes Savage.

“With an exquisitely thin rim, the liquid becomes the star.” www.nudeglass.com

H&H, one of the main proprietary brands owned by Pengo Group has launched its bamboo collection – an aperitif range comprising porcelain bowls that are ideal for receiving guests and serving fanciful finger food. With a catalogue of more than 20,000 products, H&H boasts a wide selection of tableware items, which showcase designs characterised by a balance of shapes, thoughtful product combinations and customisation, to reflect a young, dynamic and trendy mood and style. www.hh-lifestyle.it

With collections spanning cutlery, serveware, buffetware, serving trolleys, tea making equipment and numerous champagne accessories, Siom Orfèvres caters to all tastes. The champagne bucket and stand, crafted in silverplated or stainless steel, is designed to eloquently showcase the finest of sparkling beverages, with delicate curves perfectly complementing any bottle. Guaranteed to have a smooth, refined and polished finish, Siom sets the standard for sophisticated service. www.siomorfevres.com

Due to its long history of working with high-quality stainless steel, Walco is experienced in designing durable and versatile flatware lines for a range of dining occasions. The eye-catching new Bellwether collection combines lustrous 18/10 stainless steel with anti-microbial material technology to create an inhospitable environment for microorganisms. Boasting high arching handles, the range is designed for both aesthetic appeal and utility, enabling an easy lift from the table. www.walcostainless.com

See what we bring to the table.

Mar 31 – Apr 3, 2020 Oct 13 – 16, 2020 10 Strawberry Street Alessi Anchor Hocking Annieglass ARC ARC Cardinal Artland BauscherHepp Inc. B.I.A. Cordon Bleu Blue Pheasant Bormioli Rocco Glass Cambridge Silversmiths Canvas Home Casafina Certified International Christofle Circle Glass Costa Nova Crystal House Intl.

Crystalite Bohemia Inc. Darbie Angell Daum-Haviland Degrenne Paris Denby USA Deshoulières DeVine Corp.

Eleven75 Home Euro Ceramica, Inc. FIESTA® Gibson Overseas Godinger Group Gourmet Settings Hampton Forge Herend Hermès Home Essentials

Homer Laughlin China Iittala J. Seignolles The Jay Companies John Jenkins Hospitality joseph joseph Juliska Kiyasa L’OBJET LAV Lee’s Group International Lenox Corporation Libbey LSA International Luigi Bormioli MATCH Meissen Mepra Moser Mottahedeh Mr. Christmas Nambé Nikko Ceramics Noritake Oneida Orrefors Kosta Boda Over & Back Pasabahce USA Pickard China Portmeirion Prima Design Prouna Puiforcat Qualia Glass R Squared RAK Porcelain

41Madison.com A Rudin Family Building

Ralph Lauren Home Raynaud Reed & Barton REVOL Ricci Argentieri Richard Ginori 1735 Riedel Crystal Robinson Home Products Ronnie Fischer & Co Rosenthal USA Royal Albert Royal Crown Derby Royal Copenhagen Royal Doulton Royal Limoges Royal Worcester Saint-Louis Sambonet Signature Housewares Spode Steve Dolce Marketing TarHong Typhoon Homewares Tzeng Shyng Vietri Vidivi Villeroy & Boch Vista Alegre WMF Waterford Wax Lyrical Wedgwood William Yeoward Crystal Zrike Brands

ADVERTISING INDEX ISSUE 19

American Metalcraft

049

Pengo

Beyond Menus

036

Pernod

Bonna

039

Pordamsa

012

Champagne Gosset

093

Revol

148

Robert Welch

147

Chef & Sommelier

010-011

141 008-009

Cognac Frapin

095

Rona

123

Craster

033

Siom

075

Dometic

057

Stauning Whisky

025

Elia

105

Steelite

European Coffee Expo

100

Stozle

041

Figgjo

005

Studio 104

055

Fine2Dine

016

Sunkist

096

Forty One Madison

144

Tafelstern

043

Frilich

131

Tiger

085

Front of the House

015

To The Table Asia

076

Gemini

035

To The Table Europe

143

Goodfellows

133

Uniform Studio

137

Haviland & Daum

019

Vista Alegre

Internorga

124

Walco

127

John Jenkins

063

WMF Coffee Machines

129

Julius Meinl

103

WMF Proffesional

099

Kantaur

135

Wood Stone

139

LSA

119

World of Coffee

108

006-007

089

Maxim World

086

Zepè

027

Modbar

002

Zieher

069

Nude

121

145

WASHING-UP

Best in Show

Selman Marrakech is riding high with its new equestrian experience, inviting guests to savour the best of Moroccan cuisine in the heart of its stables.

146

A luxury hotel like no other, five-star

in the heart of its stables. Designed by French

establishment Selman Marrakech has long

architect Jacques Garcia, the space is far from the

attributed its success to a unique combination

typical horse box; incorporating Moorish design

of impeccable hospitality and, remarkably, its

features such as rounded archways, decorative

prized group of Arabian thoroughbreds. The pride

lanterns and a warming colour palette, it conveys

and joy of Selman’s owner Abdeslam Bennani-

a real sense of occasion.

Smires, the coveted breed of distinguished steeds

An extension of the hotel’s signature

are an integral part of the family-owned property

restaurant Assyl, the new venture takes diners

and can often be found majestically parading

on a gastronomic journey in the presence of the

around the paddocks or basking in the warmth

Arabian stallions. The cuisine comes courtesy of

of the Moroccan sun.

Chef El Hachem Oulhouss, whose Moroccan fare

Having fully committed to this endeavour with

is served with fine bubbles of champagne and

its own breeding programme, riding lessons and

the option of an equestrian display on request,

partnership with the School of Equestrian Arts of

further cementing the hotel’s commitment to

Marrakech – in which dressage activities, liberty

hospitality horsepower.

training and equestrian shows are held on site – the property is now transporting guests to pastures new with a bespoke culinary experience

DESIGNED TO LAST A LIFETIME

For more information or samples contact us.

Email: hospitality@robertwelch.com Telephone: +44 (0) 1386 840880

robertwelch.com/hospitality

Photo: F. Hamel

The 1st collection sustainably designed & made from recycled ceramic.