The Connaught Grill

The Connaught Grill The Connaught

LONDON

Words: Jenna Campbell Photography: © Jamie McGregor Smith

IN A BITE Covers: 46 Owner: Paddy McKillen Interior Design: John Heah Woodwork: George Nakashima Woodworkers Chef Partner: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Executive Chef: Anshu Anghotra Executive Pastry Chef: Nicolas Rouzaud www.the-connaught.co.uk

One of London’s most celebrated restaurants, The Connaught Grill has reopened its doors to a new generation of diners in the heart of Mayfair. First established in 1955, it was the go-to culinary destination for the capital’s original power players, before closing in 2000 to make way for new ventures. But ever since Maybourne Hotel Group set about a £70 million renovation back in 2007, there’s been talk of restoring the concept, a dream that finally came to fruition last month under the charge of Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

“Ever since we started the project I have dreamt of breathing life back into The Connaught Grill, a mythical restaurant that somehow captures a special place in guest’s hearts,” says co-owner Paddy McKillen.

With a respectful nod to its heritage, interior architect John Heah has created a contemporary interpretation of the original grill, enlisting the skills of George Nakashima Woodworkers for the exquisite wood artistry. A rosewood-clad corridor lined with custom cabinets housing vintage wines leads guests to the main room, where craftsmanship reigns supreme. Handcrafted American black walnut runs throughout the space in the form of dining booths, freeform-edge tables and chairs and solid back panels, with the wood polished, cut and trimmed in the Nakashima workshop and assembled at The Connaught under the watchful eye of Mira Nakashima.

From the open kitchen – complete with woodburning grill and rotisserie – Vongerichten pays homage to classic grill dining, bringing his own signature twist. Meat and fish are grilled using British hardwood charcoal with embers of burnt applewood, the fuel’s constant heat enhancing natural flavours and adding subtle sweet notes.

Sea bass en croute and sunday roasts are presented and carved on a restored silver trolley and followed up with traditional desserts such as sticky toffee pudding and flambéed Baked Alaska, while the fabled Oeuf en Surprise – a favourite from the original menu reinterpreted as a three-cheese soufflé served with a softly cooked egg and black truffle fondue – captures the spirit of this legendary institution.

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