Supper - Issue 20

Page 34

STARTER

The Connaught Grill The Connaught LONDON

Words: Jenna Campbell Photography: © Jamie McGregor Smith

O

ne of London’s most celebrated

to the main room, where craftsmanship reigns

restaurants, The Connaught Grill has

supreme. Handcrafted American black walnut

reopened its doors to a new generation of

runs throughout the space in the form of dining

diners in the heart of Mayfair. First established

booths, freeform-edge tables and chairs and

in 1955, it was the go-to culinary destination

solid back panels, with the wood polished, cut

for the capital’s original power players, before

and trimmed in the Nakashima workshop and

closing in 2000 to make way for new ventures.

assembled at The Connaught under the watchful

But ever since Maybourne Hotel Group set about

eye of Mira Nakashima.

a £70 million renovation back in 2007, there’s

From the open kitchen – complete with wood-

been talk of restoring the concept, a dream that

burning grill and rotisserie – Vongerichten pays

finally came to fruition last month under the

homage to classic grill dining, bringing his own

charge of Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

signature twist. Meat and fish are grilled using

“Ever since we started the project I have

British hardwood charcoal with embers of burnt

dreamt of breathing life back into The

applewood, the fuel’s constant heat enhancing

Connaught Grill, a mythical restaurant that

natural flavours and adding subtle sweet notes.

somehow captures a special place in guest’s

IN A BITE Covers: 46 Owner: Paddy McKillen Interior Design: John Heah Woodwork: George Nakashima Woodworkers Chef Partner: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Executive Chef: Anshu Anghotra Executive Pastry Chef: Nicolas Rouzaud www.the-connaught.co.uk

034

hearts,” says co-owner Paddy McKillen.

Sea bass en croute and sunday roasts are presented and carved on a restored silver trolley

With a respectful nod to its heritage,

and followed up with traditional desserts such

interior architect John Heah has created a

as sticky toffee pudding and flambéed Baked

contemporary interpretation of the original

Alaska, while the fabled Oeuf en Surprise – a

grill, enlisting the skills of George Nakashima

favourite from the original menu reinterpreted

Woodworkers for the exquisite wood artistry.

as a three-cheese soufflé served with a softly

A rosewood-clad corridor lined with custom

cooked egg and black truffle fondue – captures

cabinets housing vintage wines leads guests

the spirit of this legendary institution.


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