HOTEL FOOD & DRINK
DAVIES AND BROOK – LONDON • MAURO COLAGRECO • PALACE HOTEL – TOKYO
CONTENTS ISSUE 20 042
STARTERS
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Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester
028
Le Crocodile
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London © Read McKendree
Wythe Hotel Brooklyn
happyhappyjoyjoy 032 Crowne Plaza Amsterdam Zuid
048
The Connaught Grill The Connaught London
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Davies and Brook
036
The Chinese National
042
Claridge’s London
Swissôtel PIK Avenue Jakarta
© Takaaki Ito
© Owen Raggett
MAIN COURSES
034
Esterre 048 Palace Hotel Tokyo
Kimpton Vividora Barcelona
054
Burbank 060 Roomers Frankfurt
003
CONTENTS ISSUE 20 SERVICE
016
Mauro Colagreco
016
Roger Olsson
022
Ahead of introducing his cuisine to the Thai capital, Michelin star Mauro Colagreco reflects on the irresistible success of Mirazur, sustainability, global expansion and the universal language of food.
Having risen up through the ranks of London’s most prestigious establishments, Swedish-born chef Roger Olsson now brings his creativity and flair to the kitchens of Hyatt Regency – The Churchill.
DINING © Matteo Carassale
074
022
Here to Stay
068
Following a surge in the popularity of blink-andyou’ll-miss-them pop-up concepts, hotels have been welcoming a different kind of temporary resident.
SIPPING Angels’ Share
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A rise in single-focus hotel bars specialising in whisky are giving the drink new life whilst engaging guests with refined yet accessible menus.
MARKET INSIGHT Maximising the Opportunity in the US Hotel Market
REGULARS Entrée 009
Drinks 084
Appetisers 013
Petits Fours
Signatures
Washing-Up 098
065
Cocktails 080
004
089
086
Over the past two issues, Supper has presented the findings of a Nielsen CGA research report examining the dining and imbibing behaviour of the hotel guest. In this final instalment, we look at the value of grab-and-go initiatives and room service.
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We Will Meet Again
A
s we were in the process of putting this latest issue of
preparation and cooking zones already adhere to stringent
Supper together, it was becoming increasingly clear that
hygiene standards; could simple solutions front-of-house,
COVID-19 will forever change the hospitality industry
such as cutlery arriving in a protective wrap – the same way
as we know it. With restrictions on travel, governmentenforced bans on public gatherings and strict limitations on social activity, the global pandemic has affected us all.
chopsticks do – put guests at ease? Naturally the impact of the pandemic throws up many questions. Does an extended period of social distancing mean
The dining sector has been particularly hard hit however.
increasing the gap between tables and therefore serving
The shuttering of restaurants and bars had an immediate
fewer covers? Could this spell the end for open kitchens, live
impact, and while some have pivoted to take-away or home
cooking stations and buffets? Undoubtedly such changes will
delivery services, there’s already been casualties on the high
affect profit, but hotel F&B does have the advantage of being
street. And with chefs, mixologists and front-of-house staff
supported by room revenue. And the hospitality industry in
unable to work from home, millions of jobs are at risk. There’s
general has shown itself to be incredibly resilient in the past,
a huge amount of uncertainty as to whether venues can operate
adapting to change and looking to the design and development
again in the same capacity. So where does this leave those
community to come up with concepts and cuisines that
whose livelihood is built around bringing new restaurants and
appeal to the changing consumer. It’s this creativity that
bars to life; the very community that Supper serves?
Supper celebrates; from the unique flavour combinations of
In truth, it’s difficult to say, but there is hope. Humans are a social species and our encounters often centre around eating
a signature dish to the custom-made crockery it’s served on and the environment in which it’s enjoyed.
or drinking; we catch up over coffee, take a business lunch,
So while it’s far from business as usual for the venues
celebrate with cocktails or go out for dinner. It’s human nature
featured in this issue, we felt the hard work of all those
to connect, and hotels provide a place in which to do so. The
involved in bringing the spaces to life still deserves to be
past decade has seen more compelling hotel F&B concepts
celebrated. It may be a changed landscape, but the dining
come to light with a shift in focus from the transient guest to
sector will return, and restaurants and bars will once again
the local, a move that will pay off when it comes to reopening,
feel the buzz.
as many believe that F&B revenue will return before room revenue thanks to pent up demand for dining out in the local market. After weeks of not being able to socialise in person, restaurants and bars could well be the setting for the reunions we’re all longing for. Cleanliness will of course become more important across all public spaces, and diners can take comfort in the fact that food
Catherine Martin • Managing Editor
009
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APPETISERS
A
s the spread of Coronavirus has ushered
Rishi Sunak announce a £330 billion package
in a series of unprecedented lockdown
of support soon after, as well as the freezing of
measures, the hospitality market has
business rates for a year.
taken a significant share of the impact. As a result,
Brands have since taken steps to protect their
restaurants and bars around the world have been
workers; Manorview Hotels has retained all staff
forced to cease operations and furlough or lay-off
on 50% of their salaries, whist Whitbread – the
vast swathes of their workforce. In the UK, a study
parent company of Premier Inn – has pledged
by the University of Essex’s Institute for Social
to keep furloughed workers on full pay by
& Economic Research predicts 6.5 million jobs
topping up the 20% of wages lost as part of the
could be lost in the fallout, with accommodation
government retention scheme.
and F&B services bearing the brunt with over
Elsewhere, unable to work in their typical
1.3 million potentially unemployed. Across the
capacity, many chefs are finding ways to
Atlantic meanwhile, The US National Restaurant
contribute to the social battle against the virus.
Association has projected up to seven million out
Facilitated by the charity Chefs in Schools, a team
of work, and a US$225 billion decline in sales.
from The Dorchester have been volunteering in
As one of the early casualties of the crisis,
Tower Hamlets’ Manorfield Primary, where,
A Workforce Immobilised With hospitality markets worldwide suffering the economic impact of COVID-19, millions of hotel bar and restaurant jobs are on the line.
some restaurants and bars opted to pivot to
like many schools, the free meal programme
delivery or collection models. But even with this
continues to feed the children of key workers.
adaptation, job losses were inevitable, as chains
Likewise, kitchen staff from The Berkeley have
and independents alike sought to minimise
been working on a voluntary basis to deliver
overheads for the survival of the company.
more than 1,500 meals a week to locals. But
In the face of this crisis, prominent individuals
whilst essential in times like these, voluntary
and groups have been quick to emphasise the
services can only last as long as there is a support
need for both clarity and community. Early
system willing and able to keep those indefinitely
action included activist and chef Alex Claridge
treading water from sinking.
of The Wilderness in Birmingham launching a
A three-week extension to the UK lockdown
petition urging British Prime Minister Boris
was announced in mid-April by British deputy
Johnson to outline a clear support plan and take
Prime Minister Dominic Raab, though it is
responsibility for the livelihoods at stake.
looking increasingly likely that a longer period of
“I couldn’t sit by and watch the hard work of
distancing will be necessary, with estimates of up
my team, my peers and 3 billion other people
to a year until a vaccine is prepared. Whether this
crumble before my eyes overnight, and started a
support – by way of loosening measures or a full-
petition to ask for our questions to be answered,”
scale bail-out – is able to carry the considerable
Claridge explains. “The £75 billion contribution
weight this amount of unemployment and
the hospitality industry adds to the economy
revenue loss comes with, remains to be seen.
annually must, we argue, afford us at least that.” Over 200,000 people signed, and contributed to ongoing industry pressure that saw Chancellor
013
W
hen travelling for work, eating healthily
experiences that will meet their health-conscious
and maintaining a fitness regime can
needs while away from home for an extended
be quite the challenge. With cocktail
period of time,” notes John Licence, Vice
receptions, dining out and long hours often part
President Premium and Select Brands at Marriott
of the job, some find it difficult to keep up with
International Europe. “The in-suite kitchens
good habits, whilst others simply miss home
ensure guests are provided with the tools to cook
comforts and the ritual of preparing meals.
whatever they want, whenever they want.”
A recent study commissioned by Residence
A 24-hour grocery delivery service is also
Inn by hotel group Marriott quizzed 1,000 British
included as part of the package, removing
adults on their culinary habits and found that two
the hassle of sourcing ingredients between
thirds of respondents miss home-cooked meals
appointments and meetings. “Guests can simply
when travelling, and almost 40% claim they
leave their shopping list with reception and their
would rather eat meals that they’ve rustled up
ingredients will be delivered to their suite on their
themselves than dine out in a fancy restaurant.
return after a day of work or out exploring the
The survey also revealed that 38% use cooking
local area,” adds Licence. “The grocery delivery
as a way to unwind after a hard day at work,
service is convenient for business travellers
Home Comforts Business travel can wreak havoc with health and fitness, but Residence Inn by Marriott is helping guests to make nutritious home-cooked meals from the comfort of their room.
with research suggesting that being able to
who are on-the-go and searching for a healthy
consistently prepare food promotes greater
alternative to eating out every night.”
wellbeing and all-round health. “Being able to
As one of the leaders of the extended-stay
cook your own meals ensures a healthy habit
segment, Residence Inn’s offer is geared towards
is honoured, by providing a moment to switch
maximising the limited free time business
off after a busy day,” says Carole Ann Rice, a
travellers do have, whilst also encouraging them
leading life coach who has worked with a variety
to keep fit and healthy. Collaborations with
of individual and corporate clients. “By going
sports company Under Armour and the creation
through slow motions such as chopping, blending
of mapped running routes around the hotel is a
and stirring, the brain is eased into an alpha state
further example of how they are trying to help
– a place of relaxation and a place where creative
guests stay on track with their goals.
thoughts can be ignited.”
part of the job, but as the extended-stay segment
Residence Inn properties have been designed with
continues to grow, so too will innovations in the
the needs of the modern traveller in mind. Each
sector, resulting in services and experiences that
suite comes with a fully equipped kitchen that
give guests that feeling of home wherever they
includes a full-size refrigerator, hob, microwave,
might be.
dishwasher and coffee-maker, ensuring guests have everything they need to create nutritious meals from the comfort of their suite. “Residence Inn suits guests who want to live better and have access to amenities and
014
For many, business travel is a fundamental
Replicating this in the hotel setting, Marriott’s
Beyond Borders Ahead of introducing his cuisine to the Thai capital, Michelin star Mauro Colagreco reflects on the irresistible success of Mirazur, sustainability, global expansion and the universal language of food. Words: Neena Dhillon • Portrait Photography: © Matteo Carassal
T
o call his rise meteoric would be
resort benefits from an enviable waterfront setting
something of an understatement.
in the historic Charoenkrung neighbourhood on the
Within a year of founding Mirazur in the
doorstep of Bangkok’s first official Creative District.
French medieval town of Menton back in
Alongside the 101 guestrooms, suites and villas, the
2006, Argentine-born Mauro Colagreco
food and beverage offer will comprise a contemporary
had collected his first Michelin star.
restaurant serving authentic Thai cuisine, an ethereal
Maintaining this culinary momentum, he worked
venue for bespoke patisserie and handcrafted
toward the double in 2012 before hitting gold early last
cocktails, an elegant tea lounge and, as the signature,
year when he became France’s only non-French chef
Côte by Mauro Colagreco – a culinary journey into the
to be awarded three stars, ruffling a few feathers in the
Mediterranean. “The ethos of Capella is very much in
process. The accolades kept flooding in, with Mirazur
line with my philosophy,” he says about the venture.
taking top spot on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants
“To respect nature and to use fresh and high-quality
list in 2019 and Colagreco then named the World’s
produce that is as local and organic as possible.”
Most Influential Chef by a prestigious panel of his
To really understand the 43-year-old chef’s
peers. In between tending to Mirazur, he’d also been
philosophy requires a glance into his past, to his
steadily building a presence in hospitality kitchens,
childhood in Argentina as part of a close family of Italian
partnering with five-star hotel operators in Beijing,
descent. He was a relative late starter, toying first with
Cotai, Dubai and Florida’s Palm Beach. This autumn –
the idea of following his father into accountancy and
pandemic permitting – the highly anticipated Capella
then diverting his ambitions temporarily to a literary
Bangkok opens its doors, showcasing his gastronomy
career. Frustrated by a lack of clear direction, he was
in Thailand for the first time.
rescued by the seed of an idea planted by his sister,
“This will be a beautiful project,” says the chef,
who reminded him of just how happy he had been
describing the first Thai outpost from Capella Hotels
when cooking with his grandmother. Staying with his
& Resorts. As part of Country Group Development’s
paternal grandparents during the school holidays, he
landmark US$1 billion Chao Phraya Estate, the urban
would watch as his Basque grandmother cooked fresh
SERVICE
© Eduardo Torres
SERVICE
Specialities served at Mirazur include pigeon with wild strawberries, spelt and yarrow
pasta to keep her husband happy. The memory jolted something, unearthing within him a hidden passion. Having realised where his true calling lay, Colagreco attended the Gato Dumas Institute in Buenos Aires before heading to France in his early 20s to study what he considers to be “the base of Western cuisine”. During his first year of attending the Lycée Hôtelier de La Rochelle, he secured an internship with Bernard Loiseau at La Côte d’Or in Saulieu. It was only supposed to last a matter of months but Loiseau asked him to stay and he jumped at the chance, moving up the kitchen ranks to become a demi-chef de partie. Sadly, Loiseau committed suicide in 2003, prompting Colagreco to move on to Paris, first to Arpège under Alain Passard followed by Hotel Plaza Athénée under Alain Ducasse.
“Each teacher left me with something; from Loiseau, I learnt to prepare sauces; from Passard, I absorbed his incredible passion for vegetables; and with Ducasse, it was the sense of excellence and perfection in each ingredient.”
cheese and fresh fish – depending naturally on the day and season. This
hyper-local
commitment
to
sourcing forms the bedrock of Colagreco’s sustainable approach. “Chefs with fine dining establishments have a responsibility,” he points out. “We are in direct contact with producers and benefit from a visibility that allows us to have a direct impact on the social fabric. So we should dictate trends, educate our teams and share our values with a wider audience.” In practical terms, along with seasonality and a devotion to local produce, he has implemented a zero-waste policy at Mirazur so no part of any ingredient is overlooked but utilised instead to make everything from sauces to broths or to serve as compost for the gardens. Being positioned directly by the sea also means the
“Each teacher left me with something,” recalls
team are acutely aware of the waste that ends
Colagreco. “From Loiseau, I learnt to prepare
up in the water and so they have eliminated
sauces; from Passard, I absorbed his incredible
single-use plastics from the kitchen, gaining
passion for vegetables; and with Ducasse, it was
official certification.
the sense of excellence and perfection in each
There isn’t a formal menu as priority is given
ingredient.” Indeed, so high is his regard for
to product quality. When we speak of seasons,
Plaza Athénée that this is where the Mirazur
chef says there are 365 rather than just four at Mirazur and this informs what is served daily
team celebrated their most recent Michelin win. Back to his hotel days in Paris and the
been lovingly developed to supply 40% of the
– it’s fresh and very immediate, unleashing
15-hour-plus shifts had started to take their
kitchen’s needs today. There’s an abundant
the power of sun-drenched Mediterranean
toll. So Colagreco started mulling over the idea
150-plus varieties of herbs, fruits, vegetables,
ingredients. Perhaps this is why he doesn’t
of setting up his own place. The trouble was
edible flowers and the region’s famed citrus and
like to select his favourite plates – it’s an
he had no money and no financial backing.
avocado trees. Hens are kept and beehives for
impossible, ever-evolving choice. But they do all
Fortuitously a friend told him about a neglected
efficient pollination of crops. “Our garden is
share a common culinary language, vibrant and
restaurant in a then-little-known coastal town
an expression of nature,” chef elaborates. “We
pictorial, they play with texture and contrast.
on the edge of the Côte d’Azur, metres from
use permaculture techniques and, of course,
Take the combination of salt-crusted beetroot
the border between France and Italy. Despite
everything is organic. The garden is not only
with caviar cream or a dish known simply
knowing nothing of the terrain or culture of
a source of produce but also of inspiration
as ‘Green’ in which peas and kiwi have the
Menton, this crossroads at the passage between
and life. We don’t believe in using 100% of
starring roles. Bordighera squid is transformed
two countries, between sea and mountains,
ingredients from our own garden, however,
through a textural twist accompanied by garlic
between national identities, spoke to him. He
because cooking is about reflecting the people of
and anchovy-infused bagna cauda sauce
persuaded the owner of the eccentric 1930s
the region. So we shop at organic markets and
while pigeon interacts artistically with wild
rotunda-shaped building, with the sweeping
have close relationships with local producers and
strawberries, spelt and yarrow.
views of the bay, to give him a chance.
fishermen too. It’s important to support local
Of course, ownership of a restaurant affords
At the heart of Mirazur is the multi-tiered
life and biodiversity.” From Italian markets and
a chef ultimate freedom but how practical is
garden. Cascading down rocky terraces that
fishermen can come asparagus, cherries and
this approach in Bangkok, for instance? Can he
sit within their own microclimate, it has
prawns, from French producers, lemons, goat’s
maintain his standards of sustainability? While
019
“The ethos of Capella is very much in line with my philosophy; to respect nature and to use fresh and highquality produce that is as local and organic as possible.”
Another Mirazur favourite is the salt-crusted beetroot with caviar cream
he acknowledges the city has a very different
and the flesh adapts. So our Monkfish ‘a la
landscape to the South of France, he explains
Cacciatora’ involves the fish being grilled
how “as much as possible, we want to work in
and served with a mushroom broth and fresh
the same way, so we are meeting and forming
herbs. On the side, we’ll place a second serving
relationships with local suppliers – a short
of monkfish liver ‘torchon’ for which we use
circuit, as I say – and exploring in-season
the classic Japanese ‘Ankimo’ technique.” This
produce to see how we can incorporate it into
preview dish hints at Asian cooking techniques
the menu. Of course, it’s challenging but it’s
but will Thai culinary heritage also be recognised
really important we find solutions.”
at Côte? “We will incorporate Thai ingredients
In Bangkok, Colagreco’s Côte will focus on the
such as ginger, lemongrass, kaffir lime and
culinary heritage of both the French and Italian
pomelo,” he confirms. “Thai cuisine includes
Rivieras. “Up until 1860, Nice was part of Italy
a lot of sauces made using a pestle and mortar,
so there’s always been a connection between the
similar to the French Riviera and Italian Liguria
French Riviera and Liguria,” he notes. “There
where sauces and condiments are often created
is a rich culinary tradition from Nice along to
in the same way.”
Genoa, from which we will take produce and
Alongside a conventional menu, guests at
flavour inspiration, creating dishes.” The
Côte will have the option of the ‘blind’ nine-
menu will be specially designed for Côte, with
course tasting experience for dinner, which
just techniques and philosophy flown in from
draws on seasonality and the best ingredients
Mirazur. “I can tell you about one plate, which
available day-to-day. Starting with small dishes
marries the sea and land,” Colagreco reveals.
in the show kitchen before the main event,
“Traditionally you will see chicken in this dish
there will also be an opportunity post-meal to
but we wanted an alternative ingredient. We
tour the hotel’s organic garden and hydroponic
soon discovered that monkfish is the perfect
wall, known as ‘Green House’, currently being
substitute because it has a low-fat content
cultivated to nurture a combination of Western
© Lopez de Zubiria
020
SERVICE
and Thai shrubs, vines and trees. Green House will
a month.” Indeed, Davide Garavaglia, former Chef de
accommodate chef’s table dinners and cooking classes,
Cuisine at Mirazur, is now resident in Bangkok for
representing a shared resource for all the F&B venues
Côte’s forthcoming opening.
at Capella Bangkok.
Côte by Mauro Colagreco at the forthcoming Capella Bangkok will be a culinary journey into the Mediterranean
In addition to Colagreco’s fine dining establishments,
Colagreco has talked in the past about common
his outlets include an organic fast-food concept known
bridges between South American and Asian cuisine.
as Carne in Argentina as well as a pizza restaurant
When he picked up one of his awards last year, he
called Pecora Negra, located in the port of Menton. He
rushed onto the stage with four flags, representing
is currently working on the opening of Mitron Bakery
his native Argentina, the dual French and Italian
in the centre of the old town, which specialises in
nationalities of his global Mirazur team, and finally
organic bread produced by cultivating a variety of
the country of his Brazilian wife, who oversees front-
ancient grains. “Menton is my playground and, when
of-house in Menton. These are clues to how Colagreco
I have new ideas, it’s always the place I try them
regards food. For him, it is the universal language,
out,” he says. As for the motivation behind what he
transcending borders. “I prepare ingredients in a way
does, whether in France, Argentina or Thailand, he is
that I believe best displays their unique characteristics,
fuelled by a simple desire. And that is to evoke lasting
from the techniques I have learnt on my travels,” he
memories, as he concludes: “Each guest is different
observes. “I allow myself total creative freedom to use
and we try to understand who they are, allowing them
influences from across the world.”
to feel and create emotions. This could be achieved by
With restaurants on different continents, he is
having them retry with us an ingredient they usually
fully aware of the challenges that will be thrown up
dislike, or having them discover a product for the first
in maintaining quality and is cognisant of the need
time, or a flavour that reminds them of childhood; the
to stay closely connected: “Each restaurant takes a
possibilities are infinite.”
lot of planning; we train the staff ahead of opening for many months and fly some of them to Mirazur so they can understand our entire philosophy. My trusted team travels a lot and visits all our restaurants twice
021
SERVICE
Scandinavian Sensibilities Having risen up through the ranks of London’s most prestigious establishments, Swedish-born chef Roger Olsson now brings his creativity and flair to the kitchens of Hyatt Regency – The Churchill. Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: © Courtesy of Hyatt
A
ssured, gracious and affable,
working as a commis chef on a submarine.
Roger
the
Not one to be caught up in the retrospective
humblest chefs you could ever
romanticism of a so-called kitchen calling,
hope to encounter. When we
his memories of adolescence feature boyhood
meet on a fresh spring morning
dreams of playing professional ice hockey or
in early March, the Hyatt
becoming an architect. “I never planned to be
Regency London’s newly appointed Executive
a chef, I had no aspiration as such, there is
Chef has just finished serving almost 150 à la
no beautiful story,” he confesses. Putting his
carte breakfasts in the hotel’s restaurant, The
dreams on hold to fulfil compulsory service in
Montagu Kitchen. This is a marked change
the Swedish Navy, over a period of 18 months he
from the usual buffet service, deemed unviable
grew to love the creativity that cooking provided
at a time when a global pandemic had begun
and a life behind the pass beckoned.
Olsson
is
one
to take hold across the capital. In spite of this,
“I always thought I was going to be an
Olsson enters the room radiating positivity and
architect, but I soon found out that the process
warmth and whilst the breakfast sitting hasn’t
is too long,” Olsson explains. “I felt that cooking
been without its difficulties, he has become
held many similarities to architecture’s creative
accustomed to weathering stormy waters and
process but it was more fun and had a touch of
taking new challenges in his stride.
rock n’ roll about it; it has the joy of bringing
Born in Sweden, Olsson’s culinary career began whilst undertaking national service,
a smile to people’s faces, which is something I strive for.”
SERVICE
The Montagu Kitchen serves modern British cuisine inspired by the Chartwell gardens
Back on dry land, he secured an apprenticeship at the restaurant Coq Blanc in Sweden, where a visit from notorious chef Marco Pierre White, whose book White Heat became a culinary bible for a brigade of aspiring chefs, stoked a fire in a young Olsson. “I planned to go abroad for five years, but received the advice that if I went to England I could learn the same level of cooking
“I focus on flavours and ingredients and try to implement my taste and most importantly my learnings.”
far from plain sailing. Laughing as he recalls a particularly eventful weekend, which entailed bankrolling the produce order for the hotel’s first wedding banquet of 250 guests, partaking in the Taste of Cork Festival and the arrival of his youngest child, he still manages to find the humour in what many would regard as a rather unfortunate turn of luck.
without needing to learn a new language, so
After three years, he returned to England,
I came here and every time I tried to leave,
taking up the role of Executive Chef at five-
something better came along.”
star Bovey Castle in Devon where he worked for
As London’s restaurant scene began to
just over a year before making the move back
attract international interest in the 1990s,
to London as he set his sights on the capital.
23-year-old Olsson found himself cooking in
“It was a no-brainer for me in terms of getting
some of the city’s most exciting restaurants.
the diversity of experience and a similar kind of
Whilst the young chef cut his teeth in some of
platform,” says the chef.
the capital’s top kitchens, among them, The
Alongside chefs John Williams and Adam
Square, helmed by widely admired chef Phil
Smith, Olsson took up the position of Executive
Howard and L’Oranger, where he honed his
Sous Chef at The Ritz in 2012 and revelled in
skills working under Marcus Wareing, it was
the quality of produce and the culinary clout of
an eight-year stint at Michelin-starred Pied-à-
its brigade. “It was the best produce I’ve ever
Terre, working his way up to senior sous chef,
“When Tom [Aitkens] called a month ago and
worked with, I really enjoyed that side of it,”
where he developed an appetite for fine-dining.
asked if I could help his team during service
he enthuses. The following year, the Executive
Standing shoulder to shoulder with the likes
on his 50th birthday at his new restaurant in
Chef of The Dorchester, Henry Brosi, offered
of Tom Aitkens and Shane Osborne, this period
Belgravia, it confirmed that the effort I made
him a role as Chef de Cuisine at the hotel’s
of his career was characterised by results, high
20 years ago still counts.”
legendary Grill. Waiting until a vacancy for
pressure and a relentless work schedule, but the
The turning point in his career presented
Executive Sous Chef opened up a few months
chef believes it was necessary for developing
itself at a time when Olsson’s family dynamic
later, Olsson joined the team, where he stayed
resilience. With his trademark humility, he
was beginning to evolve and the opportunity to
for four years, developing a close bond with his
speaks both fondly and nostalgically of this
find a greater work-life balance became more
mentor Brosi. “Henry is an absolute legend,
time, always pausing to credit the individuals
pressing. “There came a time when my role
kind and super funny,” smiles Olsson. “Talented
who played a role in shaping him into the chef
didn’t match the responsibilities of a young
and everything you could wish for in terms of
he is today.
parent,” he explains. Olsson’s foray into hotels
guidance on how to navigate in a large hotel.”
“I’m in a category of chefs who are inspired
appeared to be the natural next step and in 2007
His appetite to be part of a new venture was
by the true greats,” admits Olsson. “Some
he was approached by Peter Schoch, previously
satisfied once more when he was asked to be
claim to be independent in their style, whereas
Executive Chef for The Ritz-Carlton Millenia
part of the team that launched The Principal
I focus on flavours and ingredients and try to
Singapore, who was helping to develop the
London, now Kimpton Fitzroy. Assuming the
implement my taste and most importantly my
Capella brand and asked the chef on board.
position of Executive Chef, Olsson came on
learnings.”
Uprooting to Ireland, Olsson took up the
board for the pre-launch in May 2017 and stayed
As part of the team who helped Pied-à-
role of Executive Chef at Capella Castlemartyr
until September 2019 before contemplating a
Terre regain its second Michelin star, Olsson
in County Cork, allowing him to focus on both
move to The Singapore Edition. However, in
is notable for his generosity of praise, a trait
his family and food. However, due to the global
another twist of fate, a bike accident in the
that has gone on to serve him particularly well.
recession in 2008, his first year in the role was
Alps put the brakes on this plan, giving him
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“I like honest food that is refined, elements of fine-dining in an approachable setting, that’s not too pretentious.”
further time to reflect and eventually leading
new approach, I feel we need to channel all our
him to accept a role as the Executive Chef at
energy to improve and open up with a trulyly
Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, where
great offering.”
he found his philosophy perfectly aligned with the brand.
Not long after we speak, The Churchill, like many hotels and restaurants across London
Since the beginning of January, Olsson has
is forced to close its doors as a consequence
been busy overseeing all of the culinary menus
of the Coronavirus outbreak. Despite this,
in the hotel including the British seasonal
Olsson is confident in his ability to steer his
dining restaurant The Montagu Kitchen, the
team whilst also supporting the restaurant’s
award-winning Churchill Bar & Terrace, and
suppliers throughout the crisis. “I aim to learn
the in-room dining offering and banqueting
and understand more about Kent and how we
menus. Overlooking the private gardens of
can support growers and producers during and
Portman Square, The Montagu Kitchen takes
after this unprecedented time.”
its inspiration from the year-round gardens
From the palpable drama of the White Heat
of Chartwell, Sir Winston Churchill’s former
days to the current climate of openness and
private residence, a concept that the chef is keen
transparency, Olsson has seen the kitchen
to keep evolving.
environment evolve significantly and is used
“I like honest food that is refined, elements
to the trials and tribulations that come with
of fine-dining in an approachable setting, that’s
working in challenging circumstances. “It’s
not too pretentious,” notes Olsson. “What we
not often that you get 90 days into a new role
try to do here is driven by Churchill’s life and
and then have to press pause for a significant
whilst we don’t get our produce from Chartwell
amount of time, but I’m going to make the
we take a lot of inspiration from it and focus
most of it with the team here at Hyatt Regency
on sustainability – how can you make those
London.” As someone who refuses to dwell on
changes for the greater good, we have to do
the past, his skill, resolve and humility will
this, our guests demand it, they’re a lot more
serve him well in his latest post, no matter how
educated and aware.”
uncertain the future may be.
The menu features dishes such as Golden Beetroot Salad, Roasted Celeriac and Canterbury Risotto as well as a strong selection of meat and fish including Dingley Pork Belly and North Atlantic Halibut, something that tallies with the chef’s desire to cook modern British food. “With the current crisis I am hoping to take this as an opportunity to align and develop a
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Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester LONDON
Words: Catherine Martin Photography: © Ed Reeve
IN A BITE Covers: 82 Operator: Dorchester Collection Interior Design: Jouin Manku Lighting Design: Voyons Voir Headline Chef: Alain Ducasse Executive Chef: Jean-Philippe Blondet Restaurant Director: Enrico Baronetto Head Sommelier: Pierre-Marie Faure www.alainducasse-dorchester.com
028
I
n the 13 years since Jouin Manku first
while the introduction of curved wood and
designed a restaurant for Alain Ducasse at The
leather banquettes anchor the tables within.
Dorchester, the surrounding district of Mayfair
Taking inspiration from nearby Hyde Park,
has evolved to attract a much younger crowd,
Jouin Manku’s concept plays with the idea of
enticed by fancy new residential developments,
an atmospheric mist that cloaks an enchanted
fashion boutiques and an influx of trendy bars,
forest, lifting to reveal moments of magic. An
clubs and eateries.
airy palette of oak, cotton and zinc contrasts
With that in mind, Dorchester Collection
with the smoky hues of the custom-made
decided that its restaurant portfolio was in need
furniture, while new floor lamps and cut-
of a refresh. The Grill relaunched last November
glass candle holders twinkle come nightfall.
with Tom Booton – the hotel’s youngest ever
Jouin Manku also designed a new carpet, its
Head Chef – at the helm, while Alain Ducasse
green and silver tones progressively lightening
at The Dorchester has undergone a soft
towards the centre of the room, suggesting
refurbishment, bringing a new energy to the
the lifting of the mist to unveil the Table
space. In redefining the offer, the group once
Lumière. The restaurant’s showpiece is a private
again turned to Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku
dining experience with an ethereal setting, its
– the Parisian duo behind a number of Ducasse’s
shimmering curtain of fibre optics providing a
ventures – challenging them to inject a more
dazzling backdrop to Ducasse’s seven-course
contemporary look and feel while retaining the
tasting menu, in which fine seasonal produce
restaurant’s much-loved soul that has been the
combines with French haute-cuisine for dishes
setting for many a special occasion.
that are elegant and contemporary with a light
In the main dining area, the removal of
and surprising twist. Following the debut of the
screens at the entrance opens up the space to
new-look interiors, the three-Michelin starred
make for a more memorable arrival experience,
cuisine now has a setting to match.
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Le Crocodile Wythe Hotel BROOKLYN
H
aving kickstarted a wave of stylish
explains. “Because we had such an incredible
Brooklyn openings in 2012, Wythe Hotel
scale and existing height in the building to start,
is now seeking to reinstate its F&B offer
we decided to let the eye rest and played with a
with the introduction of Le Crocodile, a new ground floor brasserie styled on the touchstones of old-world hospitality.
Words: Kristofer Thomas Photography: © Read McKendree
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Chefs Jake Leiber and Aidan O’Neal of Brooklyn hotspot Chez Ma Tante serve up a local
Designed by Loren Daye of New York-based
take on French classics, having previously been
studio Loveisenough, in collaboration with
drafted by Neidich to oversee the lighter food
Golden Age Hospitality restaurateur Jon Neidich,
offer at the hotel’s rooftop bar, Lemon’s.
Le Crocodile takes the form of an elongated
In defining the new concept, the trio travelled
dining room defined by exposed red brick walls
across Europe to experience old-world venues
and towering original windows from the hotel’s
and sample various cuisines. The resulting
former life as a waterfront factory.
menu includes highlights such as boudin blanc
Inspired by the traditional coffee houses of
sausage with shellfish bisque and aioli; steak
Vienna, the space is bright by day and softly lit
frite au poivre; and escargots with parsley and
by night, with globe lights and custom fixtures
pernod, while the dessert menu features French
hanging above burgundy leather booths and
favourites of tarte tatin, profiteroles, tarte au
dark walnut tables. Timber wall panelling and a
citron and madeleines.
marble bar complete the look, with an expansive
IN A BITE Operator: Golden Age Hospitality Interior Design: Loveisenough Head Chefs: Jake Leiber and Aidan O’Neal www.lecrocodile.com
contrast of ideas and concepts instead.”
run of mirrors mounted to reflect the scene.
Neidich and Golden Age Hospitality – the group behind Manhattan cocktail bar Slowly
“We thought a lot about what makes a
Shirley and American bistro Acme – took over
great room with play of scale, sightlines, good
Wythe Hotel’s F&B programme in early 2019,
acoustics, layering of light, hidden moments
with Le Crocodile marking the culmination of a
and architecture to anchor yourself to,” Daye
12-month refurbishment programme.
An eye-catching trend: stonewashing transforms every cutlery into unique pieces with a typical „used“ or industrial look.
www.hepp.de
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happyhappyjoyjoy Crowne Plaza Amsterdam Zuid AMSTERDAM
Words: Donna Salek Photography: © Adam van Noort
IN A BITE Covers: 147 Owner: UBM Operator: IHG Architecture and Interior Design: Concrete, JPS Architecten F&B Consultant: IQ Creative www.happyhappyjoyjoy.asia
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S
ince the first happyhappyjoyjoy opened
corners, curved central booths and high stools
its doors in the west of Amsterdam in
with water views; come summer, there will also
2015, the Asian street food restaurant has
be a large outdoor terrace for al fresco dining.
become wildly popular, so much so that the
The bar area – positioned between the hotel
brand now counts five outposts in the same city.
and the restaurant’s main entrance – features a
Earlier this year, happyhappyjoyjoy landed
striking installation of multicoloured lightboxes
in Amsterdam’s Downtown district, quickly
overhead, while on the back wall, glass fridges
followed by a new addition in the south, the
framed by painted wooden shutters exhibit
latter marking the first association with a
a collection of exotic drinks. In the main
global hotel group. Occupying a prime spot on
restaurant, the eye is immediately drawn to a
the ground floor of Crowne Plaza Amsterdam
ceiling of back-lit red parasols, complemented
Zuid – located within the rapidly developing
by waving lucky cats dotted around and walls
Zuidas business district – the fifth outlet once
plastered with posters, illustrations and prints.
again brings the rich flavours and bright colours
As with other happyhappyjoyjoy restaurants,
of Asia to the fore in a scheme designed by
the menu takes inspiration from across Asia,
Concrete in collaboration with JPS Architecten.
encompassing small sharing plates such as
With Concrete responsible for establishing
rainbow-coloured baos, dim-sum, curries and
the original concept, interior design and graphic
rendang, as well as desserts like mango bao,
identity of the brand, signature elements such
Indonesian Spekkoek and bubble tea, which
as the cursive, neon-red signage make an
will no doubt come as a welcome break from
appearance, along with an immersive explosion
the typical lunch fare for the district’s office
of colour, geometric prints and unusual objects.
workers. And if the business talk gets tedious,
The restaurant is divided into a variety of
there’s even a private karaoke room to liven
spaces to suit every occasion, with intimate
things up.
PASSION FOR BUFFET
Our expertise for your luxury buffet presentation
www.tigerhotel.co.kr
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The Connaught Grill The Connaught LONDON
Words: Jenna Campbell Photography: © Jamie McGregor Smith
O
ne of London’s most celebrated
to the main room, where craftsmanship reigns
restaurants, The Connaught Grill has
supreme. Handcrafted American black walnut
reopened its doors to a new generation of
runs throughout the space in the form of dining
diners in the heart of Mayfair. First established
booths, freeform-edge tables and chairs and
in 1955, it was the go-to culinary destination
solid back panels, with the wood polished, cut
for the capital’s original power players, before
and trimmed in the Nakashima workshop and
closing in 2000 to make way for new ventures.
assembled at The Connaught under the watchful
But ever since Maybourne Hotel Group set about
eye of Mira Nakashima.
a £70 million renovation back in 2007, there’s
From the open kitchen – complete with wood-
been talk of restoring the concept, a dream that
burning grill and rotisserie – Vongerichten pays
finally came to fruition last month under the
homage to classic grill dining, bringing his own
charge of Jean-Georges Vongerichten.
signature twist. Meat and fish are grilled using
“Ever since we started the project I have
British hardwood charcoal with embers of burnt
dreamt of breathing life back into The
applewood, the fuel’s constant heat enhancing
Connaught Grill, a mythical restaurant that
natural flavours and adding subtle sweet notes.
somehow captures a special place in guest’s
IN A BITE Covers: 46 Owner: Paddy McKillen Interior Design: John Heah Woodwork: George Nakashima Woodworkers Chef Partner: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Executive Chef: Anshu Anghotra Executive Pastry Chef: Nicolas Rouzaud www.the-connaught.co.uk
034
hearts,” says co-owner Paddy McKillen.
Sea bass en croute and sunday roasts are presented and carved on a restored silver trolley
With a respectful nod to its heritage,
and followed up with traditional desserts such
interior architect John Heah has created a
as sticky toffee pudding and flambéed Baked
contemporary interpretation of the original
Alaska, while the fabled Oeuf en Surprise – a
grill, enlisting the skills of George Nakashima
favourite from the original menu reinterpreted
Woodworkers for the exquisite wood artistry.
as a three-cheese soufflé served with a softly
A rosewood-clad corridor lined with custom
cooked egg and black truffle fondue – captures
cabinets housing vintage wines leads guests
the spirit of this legendary institution.
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Davies and Brook Claridge’s LONDON Acclaimed Swiss chef Daniel Humm makes his return to the Mayfair hotel where his career began, serving up dishes that celebrate the very best of British seasonality. Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: Courtesy of Maybourne Hotel Group
A
s this article goes to print, chefs Daniel Humm and Dmitri Magi and their teams on both sides of the Atlantic are feeding staff on the frontline, diligently
preparing and packaging thousands of meals, each topped with a handwritten note of encouragement, to send to the healthcare workers fighting the virus that has brought the world to a standstill. “Living through this will help me understand what the world – when we come out of this – will look like and help guide what this means to fine-dining and our restaurants,” writes Humm in an emotional Instagram post, leaving a note of concern in the air. Following years of planning, Humm’s new restaurant had been open a matter of weeks before the global pandemic forced its closure. But rather than put their feet up, the London team – led by Head Chef Dmitri Magi – stayed in the kitchen to cook for those in need. “I feel an immense sense of pride and accomplishment,” Magi explains. “We are hospitality people and we live to make others feel better,
037
Celebrating British seasonality, dishes include poached lobster served with swede and pear
so when you take that sense of purpose and
America,” explains Humm. “What most people
you put it at service for the most noble cause,
don’t know is that I worked at Claridge’s when I
well, that is pretty much the best thing that
was 15-years-old and it left an indelible mark; it
can happen.”
has always been a place I’ve felt connected to, so
It’s this spirit, fostered by Humm’s company Make It Nice, that will no doubt serve the
038
being able to come full circle is really emotional and exciting – it feels like coming home.”
company well when business does return. Along
Bringing a vision to life in a building that
with a stellar reputation of course. Located
demands so much, both in terms of architecture
within London’s Claridge’s, Davies and Brook is
and gastronomy, is no mean feat, so Humm
a sibling to Eleven Madison Park in New York –
assembled a trusted team of associates. As
widely regarded as one of the best restaurants in
with the renovation of Eleven Madison Park
the world having gained the maximum number
in 2017, he once again collaborated with Brad
of Michelin stars as well as six James Beard
Cloepfil of Allied Works to design the interiors.
awards, amongst other accolades.
A home crafted exactly as the chef envisioned,
Humm appears to be one of those chefs who
the ceiling has been re-modelled after the
will never stop improving; his charisma and
original coffered ones, and stoneware plates
drive to make the world better, one dish at a
are custom-made by special order from Jars,
time, is both captivating and endearing. But this
a French ceramics company. Photography by
latest venture is one that’s particularly close to
Humm’s friend, American artist Roni Horn,
his heart, having peeled potatoes in the kitchens
depicting Icelandic landscapes adorn the grey
of Claridge’s some thirty years ago. “This is
walls, whilst colonnades wrapped in Irish
my first time opening a restaurant in Europe, a
cast crystal add a certain level of Claridge’s-
place I left so many years ago to forge a career in
like ethos to the ensemble. The bar, which
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has changed significantly since the Fera days,
There’s plenty of vegetable dishes too; the
sits by the restaurant entrance, where guests
carrot salad with sunflower seeds, horseradish
can indulge in one of Head Bartender Pietro
and pickled quail egg and the aubergine with
Collina’s creations and get a taste of CFC,
coriander and roasted garlic, are as delightful
Claridge’s buttermilk fried chicken, before being
in colour as they are in taste.
shown to their table.
040
On the dessert list, Humm has brought his
The kitchen is being overseen by Estonian-
signature apple cider doughnuts and milk and
born Magi, the former chef de cuisine of Eleven
honey soft serve over from New York, which will
Madison Park, who has also held positions at
no doubt be a hit with diners.
esteemed establishments including Noma in
While the 83-seat dining room is currently
Copenhagen and Gramercy Tavern in New York.
devoid of buzz, anxiously awaiting to be
While sharing some influences with its sibling
reopened, Humm is proud of what he and his
across the pond, the menu at Davies and Brook
team have created. “Having the opportunity to
is designed to celebrate British seasonality –
bring cuisine and hospitality to the most storied
with a few surprises along the way. Alongside
hotel in the world is really a remarkable feeling
signature dishes such as duck glazed with honey
and a dream come true,” he notes. There’s a
and lavender, there are new arrivals including
palpable desire to return to what he’s best at;
char ceviche with avocado and cucumber, and
being able to surprise and delight guests with
poached turbot served with shiitake mushrooms
his cuisine. The world needs to be made nice
and garlic.
again. And it will.
IN A BITE Covers: 83 Owner: Make It Nice Operator: Maybourne Hotel Group, Make It Nice Interior Design: Allied Works Chef Patron: Daniel Humm Head Chef: Dmitri Magi Head Bartender: Pietro Collina F&B Manager: Billy Peelle www.claridges.co.uk
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21.02.2020 11:46
The Chinese National Swissôtel PIK Avenue JAKARTA Four hospitality concepts in one, The Chinese National pays respect to traditional Cantonese cuisine through an assimilation of modern and unique design twists. Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: © Owen Raggett
L
ocated in one of the capital’s most sought-after postcodes of Pantai Indah Kapuk (PIK) – a hip and affluent neighbourhood in the north of the city –
Swissôtel Jakarta PIK Avenue, is a welcome addition to the city’s emerging gastronomy scene. An ideal base from which to explore the capital, the 412key hotel opened last October and is the first outpost for the brand in Indonesia as it continues to expand its presence on the continent. While the property caters to passers-by with a 24-hour delicatessen serving freshly baked bread and artisanal coffee, its main attraction is The Chinese National, an immersive restaurant concept that pays homage to China’s diverse culinary scene. Helmed by master chef Kong Fook Sin, the flagship restaurant is a unique offer with four individual venues working together to reflect Chinese culture in a modern and refined style. Brought to life by interior design studio EDG, the overall concept is based on the ‘Four Great Inventions of Ancient China’ – namely the compass, gunpowder, paper and printing – which have been credited with revolutionising world civilisation. “The Four Great Inventions of China are possibly the greatest achievements in history,” says Michael Goodman, Partner at EDG. “Each invention has its own story, its own identity and we celebrate how these unique relationships identify with the cuisine, design and experience.” He continues: “The starting point for the project was finding a solution to meet the needs of the hotel, such as an
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From steamed dim sum and braised pork noodles to wok-fried scallop with black truffle sauce, the menu represents a celebration of China’s many cuisines
all-day dining venue, and the desires of the owners -
is really special,” notes Goodman. “It’s rare that we
who really wanted a space to serve the best roast duck
get to do a project with so much metalwork and in this
in town. Everyone at EDG and Accor had an appetite
case it really makes the venue.”
to rethink all-day dining, and from there we came up
Using stained glass to reflect an urban landscape
with the idea of four speciality restaurants together.”
of stacked apartments, Iron Needle satisfies appetites
While the design of the areas share a similar language,
with hand-pulled noodle dishes and authentic Hong
each space takes on its own dialect. “Conceptually,
Kong-style dim sum, presented in buffetware from
it gave us an opportunity to explore different levels
brands such as WMF, Zieher and Revol. As well as
of cuisine from high-end dining to casual and in
compass-inspired details, the space features a number
between, which in turn makes sure that each venue is
of sophisticated touches including white marble
not competing with one other,” continues Goodman.
dining tables, wooden banquettes with leather seats
From Szechuan pepper and barbecued pork with green
and painted wood fixtures to create a communal venue
apple, to roasted duck coated with black pepper, the
where guests and chefs can connect and interact.
variety of dishes on offer allows guests to experience multiple levels of Chinese cooking.
044
At Black Powder Red, Szechuan cuisine comes into its own as chillies and garlic in liberal amounts combine
Entering through the iconic main corridor, the
to create an explosion of flavour. With an industrial
first of the four concepts is Letterpress, a modern
Art Deco vibe, the design is inspired by gunmetal and
incarnation of a traditional tea house serving signature
fire, manifested through copper details. Designed for
afternoon tea by day and cocktails by night. A space
intimate occasions, the open kitchen is brought to life
where sophistication and simplicity intertwine,
with the sound of sizzling woks, offering guests a fiery
chinoiserie panels, antique mirrors and a vintage metal
take on traditional Chinese cuisine.
rail inspired by printing blocks frame the speakeasy-
“I am certainly playing with the taste buds of my
styled lounge and bar. “The metal work in the space
guests,” says chef Kong Fook Sin. “Most people think
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that Chinese food is simple, the reality is that
impossible task.” Meanwhile, Paper Duck’s
there is more to explore in terms of flavour,
drink selection, served in glassware by the likes
ingredients and overall presentation. We are
of Schott Zwiesel and Stolzle, has been crafted
keeping things traditional, but my cooking will
to complement the offering. “Our cocktails have
appeal to today’s discerning diners.”
been designed with the same restaurant concept
At the heart of The Chinese National sits Paper
as for the food, the drinks guests will enjoy at
Duck, a modern barbecue venue specialising in
our Szechuan restaurant are fierce and bold,
the ritual of Peking duck. Poetically expressing
whilst those at Paper Duck are more subtle.”
the process of the dish and paper-making,
Making its mark on Jakarta’s emerging food
simple materials and brass finishes have
scene, The Chinese National seeks to challenge
been used to give the venue a timeless quality
and heighten the experience of Chinese cuisine
whilst allowing the carving stations to take
whilst also paying homage to its fundamental
centerstage. “Typically in a duck restaurant
origins. “Jakarta is on its way to join the
the waiters will bring a tray jack over to carve
international community of F&B. Locals travel a
the duck tableside. We wanted something more
lot now and as they travel they grow accustomed
elegant, so we had carving counters built in
with better palates,” says the chef.
around the venue,” explains Goodman.
“We have been preparing for the opening of
Commenting on the style of cooking, Kong
the restaurant for a while and the process has
Fook Sin adds: “I have established a team
been thorough as we really want to get it right,”
with classic cooking techniques; however, the
concludes Kong Fook Sin. “We want to make a
mindset is very much present-day. We fire our
name for ourselves and when people seek out
Peking duck on an oven set to 220-degrees,
Chinese restaurants, we want to be one of the
during the old days, this would have been an
best in the region.”
IN A BITE Operator: Accor Architecture: Prada Tata International Interior Design: EDG F&B Consultant: Jokomo Head Chef: Kong Fook Sin Executive Chef: Edi Pancamala F&B Director: Maximilien Provis Glassware: Inalto, Luigi Bormioli, Nachtmann, Schott Zwiesel, Stolzle Buffetware: WMF, Zieher, Revol, EcoBurner Front-of-House Catering Equipment: WMF www.swissotel.com
047
Esterre Palace Hotel TOKYO Fusing French cuisine with Japanese ingredients, Alain Ducasse’s new outpost offers a refined dining experience in a setting inspired by nature. Words: Mandi Keighran Photography: © Takaaki Ito (unless otherwise stated)
G
astronomic tourists flock to Japan for the cuisine – a cornucopia of national and regional delicacies, from steaming bowls of ramen and simmering pots of
shabu-shabu to exquisite slices of sashimi. With the opening of Esterre, a new restaurant at the Palace Hotel Tokyo by renowned chef Alain Ducasse, it’s French cuisine – albeit reimagined with Japanese ingredients – that may soon top the must-visit list for foodies visiting the capital. “Japan has a lot to offer in terms of superb ingredients from the earth and from the sea,” says Ducasse, who has accumulated a veritable constellation of 21 Michelin stars over the course of his career. “Applying French culinary techniques to great local produce makes an extraordinary mix.” Think octopus from Aomori served from a grill at the table with potatoes, capers and sage, or vegetables from Saitama and cooking jus with coffee from Paris. This crafted blend of Japanese and French influences is not only the inspiration behind the menu, but also the elegant interiors by Japanese studio Simplicity. Esterre – with Chef de Cuisine Martin Pitarque Palomar at the helm – replaces Palace Hotel Tokyo’s previous finedining restaurant Crown, which offered a more traditional French dining experience. “It was similar to what other hotels were doing and we wanted to offer something different,” says Mika Kim, the hotel’s Associate Director of Marketing & Communications. “By using Japanese ingredients, it becomes
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© Daisuke Shima
The menu at Esterre focuses on nature’s bounty and features fresh produce from across Japan
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more appealing to our international guests and creates
founder of Simplicity. “We hope a natural beauty can
a unique experience that can only be found here.”
be felt in the restaurant as the natural materials used
The setting too is standout, with the sixth-floor
throughout will change in texture and colour with the
restaurant offering spectacular views over the Imperial
passing of time. We wrapped the interior with washi –
Palace and its gardens. During the day, natural light
which, because it originates from trees, exudes a sense
floods through floor-to-ceiling windows and is softly
of elegance and calm during the dining experience.
amplified by the white Japanese washi paper-clad
The earthy colour scheme used as a base is intended to
walls. As day turns to night, the atmosphere of the
represent the continuous, circular flow of life.”
restaurant changes and the park views are replaced
The restaurant is entered through a long, narrow
by swathes of inky blackness punctuated by lights
corridor adorned with art by Japanese master plasterer
from the surrounding cityscape. The view, much like
Shuhei Hasado – an installation inherited from the
the menu, also undergoes dramatic seasonal changes,
previous restaurant – with floors crafted in the
hence a palpable connection to the natural world.
traditional naguri-style of wood carving. The chestnut
This focus on nature’s bounty and rhythms is first
wood entrance is marked by a bountiful display of
reflected in the restaurant’s name – Esterre translates
fruit and vegetables sculpted in timber by artist Reiji
to Mother Earth in the Occitan dialect spoken in the
Kosaka. “By making guests travel this narrow path in
south west of France, where Ducasse was born – while
order to enter the restaurant creates the psychological
the interiors feature natural materials such as Japanese
effect that the room into which they subsequently
washi paper and timber to create an elegant setting
enter is much more spacious,” says Ogata. This effect
that complements rather than competes with the food.
of the space opening up as guests enter is all the more
“We wanted to create an atmosphere in line with
powerful thanks to the striking views, a defining
Esterre’s concept; a place where the stories of land
feature of the dining room. Simplicity intentionally
and sea are encountered,” says Shinichiro Ogata,
kept the interiors minimal, with few visible fixtures
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and fittings, and adjustable lighting concealed
lead the way towards new dining habits. Less
within a gold leaf ceiling feature.
fat, less sugar, less salt, less meat, and more
The restaurant seats 60 across the main
vegetables, more cereal, more fruits – this is
dining room and three private dining rooms,
the path to the new, sustainable cuisine. This
each featuring works by iron artist Morison
vision also requires favouring the local produce
Kobayashi in which handcrafted branches
made available by producers who have a respect
seemingly sprout from the walls and framed
for nature. When I am in Japan, I remain a chef
leaves resemble delicate seasonal flora. Ligne
trained in the French techniques, yet I want to
Roset Saint James chairs – originally designed
use Japanese products.”
by architect Jean Nouvel for the Hôtel Saint
As such, produce is sourced from across
James in Bouliac, France – furnish the dining
Japan – vegetables from the nearby Saitama
rooms, punctuating the minimal space with
prefecture; seabass and scallops from Aomori
their idiosyncratic form and imbuing the
and Hokkaido; and shrimp and salmon from
restaurant with personality. The earth-coloured
Nagasaki and Yamaguchi.
leather upholstery was specially commissioned
Other products such as chickpeas, coffee and
for Esterre at the request of Ducasse. Moveable
chocolate are sourced from France, creating
curved timber screens separate some tables
and celebrating a connection between the
from the entrance, providing added privacy.
two countries. “Esterre is the expression of
Throughout, the design approach is elegant
Mother Nature at the best time to experience
and pared back – much like Ducasse’s signature
it,” concludes Pitarque Palomar. “The chef
less-is-more approach to French cooking.
obeys nature, manifesting his most profound
“Esterre is the result of a momentum,” says
consideration and finding in it an inexhaustible
the chef. “Contemporary haute-cuisine must
source of inspiration.”
IN A BITE Covers: 60 Operator: Palace Hotel Tokyo Interior Design: Simplicity F&B Consultant: Ducasse Paris Chef Partner: Alain Ducasse Chef de Cuisine: Martin Pitarque Polmar Pastry Chef: Thomas Moulin Head Sommelier: Takamasa Sato www.palacehoteltokyo.com
DESIGNED TO LAST A LIFETIME
For more information or samples contact us. Email: hospitality@robertwelch.com Telephone: +44 (0) 1386 840880
robertwelch.com/hospitality
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Kimpton Vividora BARCELONA Nestled in the heart of Barcelona’s historic Gothic Quarter, Kimpton’s Spanish debut promises the very best Mediterranean flavours in a traditional mid-century settting. Words: Ayesha Khan • Photography: Courtesy of IHG
L
azy Mediterranean afternoons in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter are best spent getting lost in a labyrinth of winding streets while sipping on ice-cold horchata in
the soul-warming heat. On such a jaunt, one may happen upon the brand new Kimpton Vividora Hotel, delightfully tucked away amongst small family-run stores and private apartments. But what this property lacks in sprawl, it more than makes up for in culinary offerings. Located on the ground floor, Cafè Got does double duty as a coffee shop by day – espressos coming courtesy of La Marzocco – and a bustling post-siesta watering hole by night – a robust schedule not unusual for Barcelona’s cafeterias that seamlessly transition from breakfast and coffee to tapas and wine. The décor in this double-height space is vibrant and eclectic with custom-designed tiles on the walls, ample greenery and colourful, mid-century-inspired furnishings. “We looked to create a space that was striking yet comfortable; a space that would grab the attention of passers-by as they strolled through the labyrinth that is the Gothic Quarter,” explains Henry Reeve, Interior Design Director for IHG, of which Kimpton is a subsidiary. “We used iconic local materials wherever we could, from striking terrazzos and bold coloured tiles, to locally sourced art pieces and soft furnishings.” For the drinks offering, beverage director and acclaimed mixologist Adrià Batlle opted to focus on local wines and
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The menu at Fauna is inspired by Lopez’s own family recipes and is notable for its variety of plant-based and vegan dishes
056
cocktails. Natural wines play a large role on
recalls Natali Canas del Pozo, Partner and
the menu; Els Vinyerons Saltamartí from the
Creative Director of local design firm El Equipo
region of Penedés in Catalunya is one of Batlle’s
Creativo. “We decided to convert this challenge
favorites. Served in glassware from the likes of
into an opportunity; going to Fauna should
Schott Zwiesel and Libbey, the bartdener also
be like going to a friend’s house for dinner,”
recommends Gallinas y Focas, a wine made
she adds. Upon entry, a pantry space typically
on the island of Mallorca with local grape
used for bread displays features traditional
Manto Negro. Cocktails feature surprising herb
handpainted blue-and-white Spanish tiles
infusions – the most notable among them, a gin
depicting scenes from across the city, while
sour blended with local sugar snap peas and anise
opposite, an antithetic wood-clad wall frames
and a more hearty whisky and amaro concoction
the kitchen. Plants, tiled floors and handpainted
with maple and fenugreek. A light bites menu
ceilings add to the residential aesthetic.
crafted by resident chef and nutritionist Ferran
Fauna is a true testament to López’s deep-
López features fun dishes like Patatas Ravaleras
rooted knowledge of and attention to good
– a twist on patatas bravas – and aubergine in
nutrition. The menu is notable for its variety
tempura and cane syrup.
of plant-based and vegan dishes. “Since I am
On the second floor, Fauna, the hotel’s
a nutritionist, I consider plants and veggies to
signature restaurant was designed after a
be the base for the health and wellbeing of our
traditional home in Barcelona. “In this particular
bodies,” he explains. “We cook them at low
hotel, the ground level in contact with the street
temperature so we keep the nutritional qualities
was especially small so the restaurant needed to
like vitamins, minerals, salts and water.” His
be located in the second level of the hotel, which
top pick for nutritional value is a sweet potato
is a very uncommon situation in Barcelona,”
dish that comes with coconut soup and curry
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caramelised peanuts served on dinnerware from
Stars with Glenlivet FR, Fassionola, a blend of
brands such as Playground and Revol. Of course
fruit and tropical spices in a flavoured coloured
meat also features heavily on the menu with
syrup, absinth, cocoa liqueur and citrus hints of
several dishes inspired by the chef’s own family
lime and grapefruit. These bright, fruity drinks
recipes. “My passion is cooking through home
are accompanied by barbecue bites such as pork
recipes that our grandmothers and mothers
ribs, sweetbreads and chorizo criollo garnished
taught us throughout their lives; these recipes
with charcoal grilled potatoes – all made on a
always excite me,” he explains. “One dish that
robata grill built into the bar counter.
brings me back to my childhood is my mother’s
As the Barcelona sunset bathes the space in
recipe for baby squid stuffed with black pudding
a coral glow, Equipo Creativo’s décor comes to
and fresh lemon foam. It is a simple surf-and-
life. “Our design strategy was to create a cool
turf dish, yet its complexity and mixture of
space inspired by the Barcelona terraces and
flavours and textures is fantastic.”
outdoor spaces, with an emphasis on its textures
If Barcelona and the Gothic quarter are
and light-and-shadow patterns,” del Pozo says
known for one thing aside from sun-drenched
of the space. “We worked with contrasting
meandering streets, it’s the mosaic of terracotta
surfaces, textures and colours. Ceramic tiles are
rooftops offset by the glistening Mediterranean
once again the protagonists, this time in the
in the distance. This is the precise view from
vertical surfaces. Referencing the street art so
Terraza de Vivi, the hotel’s rooftop bar.
popular in this area of the city, tiles are used to
Here, Batlle and López were able to unleash
create murals with abstract patterns. Textured
their creativity, launching a tiki theme serving
pergolas produce natural light and shadow
a variety of tropical drinks. Blood of Aikau, the
effects in the terrace, generating a relaxed
signature cocktail combines Plantation Rum 3
chiringuito atmosphere.”
IN A BITE Owner: Casacuberta Operator: IHG Interior Design: Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants, El Equipo Creativo Head Chef: Ferran López F&B Manager: Pep Miró Head Bartender: Adrià Batlle Dinnerware: Playground, Avet, Le Creuset, Revol Glassware: Schott Zwiesel, Libbey, Riedel Front-of-House Catering Equipment: La Marzocco www.kimptonvividorahotel.com
FOR WINE LOVERS
WWW.ZIEHER.COM
Burbank Roomers FRANKFURT A new restaurant by chef The Duc Ngo combines aromatic pan-Asian flavours with relaxed California vibes. Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: Courtesy of Gekko Group
H
ome to one of the world’s largest stock exchanges
Having collaborated with Vietnamese-born Duc Ngo on a
as well as the headquarters of the European Central
string of successful restaurants including Golden Phoenix in
Bank, Frankfurt or ‘Mainhattan’ as it is sometimes
Berlin and Moriki in Frankfurt, Gekko Group challenged the
referred to, is a hive of high-powered financial activity.
chef to come up with a completely new offering for Roomers.
Every year, millions of business travellers descend on the
Inspired by the multi-cultural cuisine of the United States, his
business capital to attend conferences, exhibitions and
dishes are both aromatic and tasteful and are complemented
trade fairs thanks to its prime geographical position at the
by a beautifully upscaled restaurant environment.
crossroads of Europe.
060
Enlisting his good friend and business partner Hyunjung
And whilst the German hotel market may once have been
Kim to breathe new life into the existing interior, the space
regarded as a little stale, filled with the same cookie-cutter
has been refreshed with bright accent colours and intimate
brands, a new generation of independents have helped
seating niches. Light wooden tables and dark velvet seating
to expand the variety of hospitality experiences on offer.
mixes with deep green granite surfaces and a contrasting
Amongst them is Roomers, the trendy hangout from Gekko
dove blue and desert orange palette, conjuring up images of a
Group’s Micky Rosen and Alex Urseanu.
Californian vista punctuated by long highways and boundless
With outposts in Baden-Baden and Munich, Roomers is
beaches. “To show the theme, our designer used blue and
a pleasure-seekers paradise, describing itself as electric,
orange colours, right away you feel that you could be in
hedonistic, sensual and glamorous. In Frankfurt, the 116-
Los Angeles or Mexico,” says Duc Ngo. “She also decided
key property occupies a former office block, yet behind the
to incorporate grand silver mesh light fixtures from Moooi
gleaming façade is a seductive world of subdued lighting,
as well as coloured glass and mirrors – it really shows the
moody tones and industrial-inspired fixtures. The hotel first
intention of the restaurant.”
made its debut in 2016, but, in a bid to stay ahead of the
Regarded by many as a culinary innovator for his role in
competition, has recently revamped its dining offer with the
characterising Asian cuisine in Germany, Duc Ngo’s style of
opening of Burbank – an Asian-fusion, Californian-inspired
cooking has been heavily influenced by his upbringing. “I’m
concept headed up by Germany’s hottest chef, The Duc Ngo.
half Chinese; half Vietnamese; I came to Germany when I was
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Highlights of the menu include Coco Love – an uplifting and vibrantly coloured salad featuring citrus fruits, mizuna and a sweet and sour lemongrass dressing
was five and travelled through the whole of Europe;
dressing; Chilli Honey Prawns with mayonnaise,
and I learnt Japanese cuisine,” says the chef. “I’m a
almond and green chilli; and Peanut Satay Chicken, a
fusion human, so I’m open to every type of cuisine
stand-out notable for its punchy aftertaste thanks to
in the world.”
the accompaniment of sambal matah salsa.
Despite having no formal training, Duc Ngo set out
The most discerning of diners will be able to pick up
on his culinary journey working in a Berlin sushi bar at
upon a variety of global influences and taste fusions
the age of 20 before opening his own restaurant, Kuchi,
across the menu. Peruvian and Japanese cuisines mix
a mere four years later, focusing on a combination of
to create Sake Aburi, a combination of flamed salmon,
sushi, ramen and yakitori. By the time he opened Shiro
avocado, grapefruit, ponzu and olive oil; while Mexico
i Shiro in 2005, the chef had amassed a loyal following
is represented by the signature guacamole, served
with guests such as Sharon Stone, Mick Jagger and
exactly how the chef likes it, with shichimi and a bowl
David Lynch.
of tortilla crisps. The menu is delicious, diverse and
Whilst his ability to attract A-list diners continues,
made for sharing.
Duc Ngo pays little attention to his own growing status
With many of Duc Ngo’s relatives working across
and insists that his success is attributable to fine food
his restaurant portfolio, his brand is very much a
and great hospitality. “It is very important to create
family affair, with community and sociability driving
something where the restaurant is the star and not
its success. Channelling this approach at Burbank,
the people visiting it; all of my restaurants are based
the chef encourages people to come together with
on cuisine and cooking,” he adds. “Moriki is the place
family and friends and enjoy food and drink without
where everyone is begging to get a table, I really want
distraction. “It’s always about sharing, in Asia you
Burbank to be like that too.”
never get your own dish, plates go in the middle of
At Burbank, sashimi meets guacamole and raw
the table; it is the food of joy.”
food flavours seamlessly intertwine with pan-Asian
While the chef continues his travels – he plans to
culinary philosophies. “Old school Californian cuisine
visit Europe and parts of the southern hemisphere next
combines with what I used to do in my first restaurants,
year – it seems that the process of immersing himself
Japanese flavours and very precise cutting skills – I
in other cultures and developing his brand is much
always want food to be good looking,” says Duc
more than a job, it’s a way of life. “My family and
Ngo. Highlights of the menu include Coco Love – an
friends tell me to slow down but I cannot,” he quips.
uplifting and vibrantly coloured salad featuring citrus
“I love feeding people and I love when they get excited
fruits, mizuna and a sweet-and-sour lemongrass
about my food.”
IN A BITE Operator: Gekko Group Interior Design: Hyunjung Kim Executive Chef: The Duc Ngo F&B Manager: Branimir Hrkac www.roomers-frankfurt.com
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20/04/2020 15:24
SIGNATURE Crab, curry, lime Àclèaf – Boringdon Hall DEVON
“The crab is the star here but not as people know it,” says
the finest local ingredients. The Head Chef is particularly
Scott Paton of one of the signature dishes created for Àclèaf,
selective about the crab he cooks with for example, using
a new restaurant at Devon’s historic country hotel Boringdon
only the purest white meat of the claws for a more refined
Hall. “We use the best crab we can buy, sourced locally from
taste and appearance.
Brixham so it’s full of flavour, and combine it with light
“There’s a lot to like about this dish,” Paton notes.
madras spices, lime and a little yoghurt before finishing with
“Visually it’s beautiful, but what I love most is how it is
mango emulsion and herbs picked from the garden.”
received by guests. The natural sweetness of the crab shines
The inventive dish forms part of Paton’s four-course
through, highlighted by light curry aromas and a gentle
table d’hôte and six-course tasting menus, and showcases
acidity from the lime – just enough to pique the flavours
a passion for England’s South West through the use of only
and refresh the palette.”
© Matthew Hawkey
SIGNATURE
Crispy Kanzuri Shrimps Megu The Alpina GSTAAD
Since opening in the Swiss Alps in 2012, The
philosophy meaning many of the signature
Alpina Gstaad has set a high standard for
dishes will remain on the menu, including
cuisine in the region, its restaurants awarded
the Crispy Kanzuri Shrimps. Made using
both Michelin stars and high ratings from Gault
shrimps sourced from sustainable farms, the
Millau. Amongst them, Japanese restaurant
dish is described by Ogata as “a harmonious
Megu has won a legion of fans over the years,
unification of texture and taste” thanks to the
and recently entered a new chapter under the
crunchy tempura batter and delicate sweet and
watch of Head Chef Tetsujiro Ogata. Appointed
sour glaze. Presentation too is a feast for the
in January 2020, Ogata brings with him two
senses, with the shrimp served on crockery
decades of hospitality experience, including
from Japan, custom-made in a shade of red
successful stints at Rosewood Phnom Penh
that coordinates with the interior design
and The Ritz-Carlton Bahrain. At Megu, he’ll
scheme by Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance.
put his skills to good use creating new fusions
While the full recipe of the signature dish
with both local and Japanese ingredients in
remains top secret, Ogata, along with Head
fresh and surprising combinations.
Sushi Chef Tsutomu Kugota, can vouch for its
Regular diners need not worry however, Ogata will preserve the authentic Megu
simple yet powerful flavours, which continue to be a hit amongst guests.
www.pordamsa.com @pordamsadesignforchefs
Here to Stay Following a surge in the popularity of blink-andyou’ll-miss-them pop-up concepts, hotels have been welcoming a different kind of temporary resident. Words: Lucy Lovell • Photography: Xavier Giammattei (unless otherwise stated)
DINING
B
ased on the quaint, snow-dusted
jungle of evergreens climbing the walls. It’s a
façade, it’s almost impossible to
multi-sensory Peruvian feast – and has been
guess the dining experience that
fully-booked since launch.
awaits at Ultima Gstaad. Set in a
The pop-up is a relatively new concept
postcard-perfect town in the Swiss
in luxury hotels, but limited edition dining
Alps, the hotel looks more like a
experiences have been taking place for decades.
gingerbread house than a five-star retreat. With
Some believe the movement emerged out of the
its ornate balconies and backdrop of spruce-
supper clubs of the 1960s, while others point
lined mountains, the chalet blends in perfectly
to pioneering chefs like Los Angeles-based
with its surroundings. Its restaurant, on the
Ludo Lefebvre as having kicked off a wave of
other hand, does not. In fact, it’s about as far
modern takes through the 2000s. It came about
from traditional Swiss cuisine as you can get.
when freelance chefs broke free of the confines
For one month only, Ultima Gstaad’s fine-
of traditional restaurant environments, and,
dining restaurant has been transformed into a
whether it was to save money or test out a
tropical paradise thanks to a collaboration with
new concept, cooks were taking to the streets
Peruvian restaurant Coya – a brand with outposts
and starting new empires. Empty warehouses,
in Dubai, London and Paris. The hotel’s polished
friend’s bars and even living rooms were turned
white plates have been swapped for emerald
into temporary culinary delights. Pop-ups were
green sharing platters, subtle background music
built on the foundations of an edgy, exciting
replaced by a DJ playing South American beats,
dining movement, and it is a reputation that
and neat bouquets of flowers swamped by a
continues to this day.
DINING
Luxury swiss boutique Ultima Gstaad welcomed Peruvian restaurant Coya to offer guests a cultureclash F&B experience
admits. “Because in Gstaad sometimes it’s very
“One or two Michelin stars, that’s amazing, but you go there only once. When you have pop-ups like this you can grab your guest with something new.”
traditional, very classic, and we injected a new
SIMON LE COSSEC
It prompts the question: just how well can this radical format fit into a luxury hotel setting? The makeover involves hosting anything from an elite chef to an entire restaurant team, inviting them to take over the kitchen and floor operations. According to Simon Le Cossec, General Manager at Ultima Gstaad, it can be a great success – if you’re willing to take a risk. “To be honest, at the beginning, we didn’t know whether we would have success with Coya,” he
energy.” He needn’t have worried; the weekend
Now, guests staying at competing hotels are making dinner reservations at Ultima Gstaad, and the hotel’s own guests are dining in-house for up to three nights in a row. “It creates a buzz,” Le Cossec smiles. “That’s very important for us. We are small but we want to show that we always keep moving forward.” The key to running a successful pop-up is finding the right fit. It’s something hotels around the world are searching for, with some finding successful partnerships that recur year after year. Beachcomber Resorts & Hotels in Mauritius, for example, have been hosting
after launch Coya was already in high demand.
events with Michelin-starred chefs from France
Perhaps the success is down to Ultima
and Italy for over two years, while Japanese chef
Gstaad’s commitment to recreating the Coya
Nobuyuki Matsuhisa partakes in an anticipated
experience in impeccable detail. They flew in
annual residency at Zürich’s Baur au Lac.
the DJ from Monaco, shipped tableware from
Other hotels book events more impulsively,
London and rented crockery from Geneva. The
scouting out the rising stars of their local food
London-based restaurant chain brought in 25 of
scenes. In this case, the venue becomes a testing
its best team members from Mayfair and Dubai.
ground for gastronomical talent, where there’s
It might sound extravagant, but their knowledge
a huge benefit for the chefs as well as the hotel. Take St. Martins Lane London for example. Its
helped put slightly bewildered diners at ease, encouraging them to explore Coya’s flavour-
source, no matter how hard the team tried.
latest project is a three-month pop-up by chef
packed menu. Crisp corn tortillas served with a
“Coya wanted us to create their dishes perfectly,
Gizzi Erskine, who is turning St. Martins Lane
spicy guacamole that waiters crush at the table;
so we cancelled those that we couldn’t find the
Kitchen into The Nitery – a playful take on 20th
sea bass ceviche dressed with crunchy choclo
right ingredients,” he adds.
century Parisian nightclubs, serving sumptuous
corn and a hefty squeeze of lime; and arroz
Despite some challenging logistics, it’s worth
nikkei, a homage to the Japanese-Peruvian
it overall, assures Le Cossec. Ultima Gstaad can
For Erskine, the chef residency provides a
fusion cuisine, made with Chilean sea bass.
now compete with established luxury hotels in
supportive space for restaurateurs to hone their
fusion food.
And if cooking the dishes to the exacting
the area which benefit from a higher footfall and
craft and concepts. This, in turn, paves the way
standards of Coya’s chefs wasn’t difficult
Michelin-starred credentials, but pop-ups are
for them to set up new ventures in the future.
enough, sourcing the ingredients was another
just one of the ways that it can offer something
She explains: “It’s no secret what an insanely
major challenge. The Chilean sea bass, for
unique. “I think when you go to the hotel you
difficult landscape it is out there for burgeoning
example, proved slippery getting hold of. “It
want more than fine dining,” Le Cossec says.
businesses of any kind. A pop-up can provide
was not easy,” Le Cossec concedes. “We don’t
“One or two Michelin stars, that’s amazing,
a safe incubator to explore an idea before you
have this fish, so we had to buy it in France and
but you go there only once. When you have
take the plunge of opening a permanent site.”
then declare to customs that we had something
pop-ups like this you can grab your guest with
new.” Some ingredients proved impossible to
something new.”
Moreover, pop-ups are a way to tap into trends without permanently changing a core
071
DINING
“A pop-up can provide a safe incubator to explore an idea before you take the plunge of opening a permanent site.” GIZZI ERSKINE
The month-long Experimental Negroni Club at London’s Henrietta Hotel served modern twists on the classic cocktail
offering. London’s Henrietta Hotel recently
so much a pop-up, it’s an exchange,” he
noticed a surge in demand for negronis. Bosses
concludes. “You could call it pop-up or a
worked quickly to satiate London’s thirst and
takeover, but you have to be creative.”
launched the Experimental Negroni Club last
Cros’ struggle with the word is indicative
September. For one-month the property’s
of just how much the trend has changed.
mezzanine space was transformed via an
Its origins are in disused buildings, but
immersive light installation and a Campari-
these residencies have since evolved into
sponsored bar serving twists on the classic.
a collaboration between restaurant, venue
But for Pierre-Charles Cros, co-founder
and guest. Whether it’s waiting staff imbued
of Henrietta Hotel’s parent company
with an incredible knowledge of Peruvian
Experimental Group, it’s not enough to simply
ingredients or bartenders who can whip up the
replicate trends. Customers are incredibly
perfect negroni, there is a lasting impression
discerning, he warns. “We try to push a little...
in terms of knowledge, skills and reputation.
to bring something a bit different. Everyone
In this light, the pop-up looks less like a
knows what the negroni is and we wanted to
fleeting experiment and more like a cultural
present them with other things that they can
exchange. Far from being transitory, pop-ups
drink it with.”
and chef residencies could become a permanent
In Cros’ mind, the term pop-up can be
fixture on many more hotel calendars.
restrictive. For him it’s a time-consuming, artistic endeavour, and sometimes the word just doesn’t do the event justice. “It’s not
© Aron Klein
072
A rise in single-focus hotel bars specialising in whisky are giving the drink new life whilst engaging guests with refined yet accessible menus. Words: Anna Sulan Masing
SIPPING
H
otel bars have always exuded
Paskin explains: “The industry is shaking
a certain glamour, but in
off its dusty image, and the rulebook that
the last five years they have
governed how whisky should be drunk
arguably developed into a
has also been thrown out – drinkers are
more accessible space for all,
increasingly encouraged to enjoy their
and a place to have a great
whisky however they please, and cocktails
drink at any time of day.
have become exceedingly popular, driven
Ace Hotels were early adopters, creating
by the seductive Old Fashioned and zesty
hospitality environments that appealed
Whisky Sour.” Whisky makers are also
to food- and drink-focused locals. The
becoming much more innovative, she adds.
group’s Portland property, opened in 2006,
“This has resulted in an endless spectrum of
exemplifies this by way of partnerships with
flavours to explore; there’s an option to suit
award-winning venues Clyde Common and
every palate.”
Pepe Le Moko – next door and downstairs respectively.
An excellent example of innovation in flavour is Westward Whiskey in Oregon,
In the last year, however, we’ve seen hotel
USA, a brand that has been pioneering the
bars stepping things up again, specialising
American single malt category, and whose
their approach and taking deep dives into the
signature drink is highly reflective of
world of whisky. With the drink undergoing
environment and locale.
something of a renaissance at the moment,
Miles Munroe, Head Distiller and Blender,
hospitality F&B spaces can offer an intimate
explains: “The Pacific Northwest not only
setting where guest and server can delve
yields incredible raw materials, but it also
into this drink with creativity and detail.
has dynamic craftspeople. One of our more
This revitalisation is down to innovation,
unique collaborations is with Ken Forkish,
changing palates and new stories.
an award-winning Portland baker, with
Becky Paskin is a whisky expert and
whom we make a sourdough whiskey.”
the co-founder of OurWhisky, an online
He continues: “Our heritage is deeply
platform launched in 2018 to challenge
steeped in the brewing culture, and we are
outdated stereotypes around the beverage.
within the same valley as many world class
This year it grew into an educational space,
pinot noir producers,” – a proximity that
guiding new drinkers – a younger, curious
has led to Oregon stout casks and pinot noir
and more gender-balanced crowed – into
cask finishes. Munroe says this not only
their favourite dram.
creates a distinct flavour, but also offers
000
SIPPING
The signature drink from Oregon’s Westward Whiskey is reflective of environment and locale
the bars, Sibín, is a dedicated whisky space that
“Hotel bars have moved out of their comfort zones; they are now more challenging in terms of creativity. ”
reflects this shift in perception.
ENRICO GONZATO
different stories to be told with the serving, and a collaborative working method that ultimately broadens who whisky is for. London in particular has seen a surge in whisky focused establishments, with new hotels excelling in this. Great Scotland Yard in Mayfair opened in December 2019, where one of
identity. “Whisky has many different styles; we focused on cask finishes and have a strong American selection. Every bottle is carefully considered in terms of why it belongs here,” Gonzato muses. Like Sibín, Pine Bar at The Biltmore Mayfair, also opened at the end of 2019, features a robust whisky list, and is in the process of developing
“Until recently we were told more about
a specific, dedicated programme, kicking off
what not to add to your whisky, and how not
with a whisky trolley in the next few months.
to drink it, rather than how to enjoy it,” says
The aim is to create a more interactive way
Michal Maziarz, Bars Manager at the hotel.
into the category, allowing guests to feel more
“Whisky was reserved for upper-class men
comfortable with experimenting.
smoking cigars. But 80% of whisky worldwide
Coming from a slightly different angle is Black
has always been drunk with a mixer, and luckily
Rock, a specialist bar and tavern which launched a hotel in January – The Black Rock Lodge.
the industry has recognised this.” Maziarz believes that it might not be that
At Sibín, the menu seeks to push boundaries
Inspired by Tokyo’s capsule hotels, the rooms
drinkers are changing, but rather it is the
and play with flavours. The bar’s Old Fashioned
are a combination of luxury and minimalism, in
expertise of the bar world helping guests better
– a cocktail optimised for the showing off of
the heart of the city and above their own bars.
understand the spirit. “We do hear ‘I don’t like
whisky – is the most popular, based on an
This move is based on its fundamental ethos
whisky’ often, but have a high success rate in
Australian single malt, Starward. Other, fruitier
of hospitality. “We wanted to create a great
converting those people,” he says. “It is the
favourites include Pink Label – with Johnnie
space, that happens to have a lot of whisky,”
expertise and confidence of professionals, and
Walker Black Label, raspberries and a smoky
Operations Manager Matthew Hastings says.
an increasing number of single-focus bars, that
ginger ale – and Blue Dog, made with Milk
“Black Rock offers a variety of experiences and
encourages people to try what that particular
& Honey (a single malt from Tel Aviv’s first
activities such as tasting sessions, blending
bar does best.”
distillery) shaken with blue curacao, vermouth
classes, an award-winning basement bar, and
bianco and lemon.
a more relaxed tavern. It felt natural to build a
Combined with the range of whiskies now
space for guests to stay.”
available, this has seen bartenders becoming
Across London meanwhile, The Stratford
increasingly specific as to what they use in
opened at the end of 2019, where bar manager
The brand’s basement bar displays whisky
cocktails. “We are using much more niche
Enrico Gonzato explains that the shift in attitude
by flavour profile – Smoke, Fruit, Balance,
whiskies – from robust to light, as well as more
has created strong foundations for developing
Fragrance, Spice and Sweet. Echoing Paskin,
subtle and fragrant ones that are almost like a
specialist programmes. “Hotel bars have moved
Hastings says this allows drinkers to find
light rum,” Maziarz explains. “There is a place
out of their comfort zones; they are now more
the right whisky for their palate, shifting the
for all of them in shakers and mixing glasses
challenging in terms of creativity,” he offers.
beverage into a space of experimentation and
around the world.”
076
found that a focus on whisky gave them a clear
The Mezzanine – the hotel’s flagship bar –
fun. The whisky bottles are contained in glass-
© Carly Diaz
SIPPING
The Bulleit-based No Shake Sour at London’s Black Rock Tavern, a specialist whisky bar with rooms
fronted display cabinets, demonstrating the
UK properties, and will soon be rolled-out to its
broad range of identity and character. Simple,
hotels globally.
classic designs sit alongside fun, colourful
The Glasshouse’s General Manager Tom
illustrative labels, and origins vary. Having the
Gibson describes the drink as “evocative of
bottles in cabinets for guests to easily access
a summer Scottish breakfast with buttered
is a clear move away from any elitist illusions.
oatcakes and heather honey. Guests can look
And it isn’t just London where this focus is
forward to flavours including dark cherry, white
claiming ground; Rosewood Yangon opened
peach, and kiwi fruit compote and hazelnut
in Myanmar in February and features the
spread on well-toasted drop scones.”
Courtroom bar, where the whisky selection
Looking ahead, Paskin believes there is more
takes centrestage. The newly opened Monkey
innovation on the horizon, from exploration of
Island Estate in Bray, meanwhile, has a Whisky
different grains and yeast types to cask finishes.
Snug accessible by secret staircase, and will be
It would seem that whisky is the drink to get
launching further experiences across the year.
behind, to have fun with, and to take in new,
The Glasshouse in Edinburgh recently
creative directions. Together, these elements
announced an Elite Whisky Experience
offer hospitality venues a new way to engage
that includes a tasting dinner, a personal
with their guests, creating memorable moments
guided distillery tour and a two-night stay
and interactions whilst challenging the status
in the beautiful Islay Suite. And YTL Hotels
quo. Hotel whisky bars could soon become the
has launched its own brand of whisky in
place to be, on any occasion.
collaboration with Adelphi, an acclaimed Scottish bottler of rare single cask and limitededition single malts. Bottles are available across
078
COCKTAIL
Pumpkin Thyme Tanaman Desa Potato Head BALI
Following months of taste testing, Potato Head’s in-house Research & Development team has unveiled a new cocktail menu for Tanaman, the recently opened restaurant at Bali’s first creative village. “We wanted to create a range of sophisticated cocktails to pair with our plant-based Indonesian cuisine,” explains Head Mixologist Hary Wahyudi, adding that produce is sourced directly from small, spray-free farms across the island. “The drinks menu showcases Indonesia’s rich umbrella of health tonics, juices and fermentations created from native flora and fauna.” One of the signatures is Pumpkin Thyme, a smooth, spicy and zesty drink made from roast pumpkin puree, orange arak, thyme, palm nectar and island-spiced rum. “The idea with this cocktail was to experiment with an ingredient that isn’t widely used to create intrigue,” says Wahyudi. “It has a multi-layered flavour and texture that gives it a different sensation, with an almost unexpected taste result.” Served in an elegant martini glass and finished with a sprig of thyme to add aroma and interest, the cocktail elevates the experience of vegetable-based drinks while reflecting the restaurant’s wider culinary concept. “The visual impact of the strong orange colour of the cocktail itself was created to work well with the earthiness of the dishes in Tanaman and also contrasts with the blue tabletops in the restaurant,” notes Wahyudi. “Guests love the surprising and intriguing flavour of the pumpkin, it is savoury but still with a hint of sweetness.”
JOHN JENKINS ESTABLISHED 1901
BY APPOINTMENT TO HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES SUPPLIER OF CRYSTAL GLASS JOHN JENKINS & SONS LTD T/A WILLIAM YEOWARD CRYSTAL HAMPSHIRE ENGLAND
a perfect cocktail…the perfect glass NYEWOOD, ROGATE, PETERSFIELD, HAMPSHIRE GU31 5HZ Tel: 01730 821811 Email: office@johnjenkins.co.uk NEW YORK SHOWROOM, 41 MADISON AVENUE, 13TH FLOOR, NEW YORK, NY 10010 Tel: 1-800-818-8484
www.johnjenkins.co.uk
COCKTAIL
The Lighthouse The Alchemy Bar The Academy LONDON
When Alexandra Champalimaud embarked on the refurbishment of YTL Hotels’ The Academy in 2018, she looked to the Bloomsbury Set for inspiration, subtly weaving the lives and loves of the writers, philosophers and artists into her design scheme. This theme has now extended to the beverage programme with the launch of a new cocktail menu at the hotel’s Alchemy Bar, with an imaginative selection of new mixes designed to celebrate the district’s literary greats. “The Literary Cocktail collection offers a balanced menu of eye-catching cocktails, with something to suit everyone whatever their tastes, both in terms of literal taste and visual impact,” says Suman Poudel, The Academy’s Assistant Food & Beverage Manager. One of the most popular is The Lighthouse, named after Virginia Woolf’s 1927 novel and inspired by a childhood spent in St. Ives. Combining Tanqueray gin – first distilled in Bloomsbury in 1830 – with sugar syrup and fresh lemon juice, the ingredients are shaken for a refreshing citrus blend, poured into a bespoke glass made by Artis, then topped with soda and a lemon peel garnish. “Our guests are well-read, sophisticated travellers and appreciate the nod to the literary heritage,” adds Poudel. “It was a welcome challenge to create a lighthouse in a glass.”
© Paolo Ferla
AF_AnuncioSupper_Texture_236x275.pdf
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DRINKS
Millésime 1992 Cognac Frapin
Grönt Te Mackmyra Swedish Whisky
An expression of age-old know-how, Millésime 1992 is the last vintage to join Frapin’s collection of rare cognacs. During its year of harvest, vineyards in the heart of the Grande Champagne, on the hillsides of the Chateau Fontpinot, produced an abundance of grapes with high levels of acidity and low levels of alcohol. These conditions are essential in ensuring the concentration of aromas before heating time. Distilled over lees and aged in sealed barrels in the cellar of Frapin’s family estate, the vintage XO gave its angels’ share over 26 years, resulting in a complex and elegant product. On the palate, the cognac is rich and aromatic, developing subtle floral variations, before revealing a fruity undertone with notes of orange.
Launched 20 years ago, Mackmyra blends its Swedish heritage with a vision to strive for new and exciting taste combinations. Its newest release Grönt Te is a single malt whisky finished for 19 months in casks saturated with a blend of elegant Japanese green tea leaves. The resulting spirit is subtly spicy, boasting a fruity and floral finish with hints of fine vanilla, herbal tea and green apple. “Producing Japanese tea is in many ways similar to the production of whisky, as they both share the same values in quality, taste and aromatic experience,” comments Yuko Ono, tea advisor for the blend. “Grönt Te raises the characters and flavours of the leaves giving the whisky a unique aroma and taste inspired by Sweden and Japan.”
www.cognac-frapin.com
084
www.mackmyra.com
Gin Cap Gin
Atlantic Dry Mead Kinsale Mead Co.
Cap Gin was born from a conversation between three friends living in the South of France, all of whom shared a vision to introduce a gin that would encapsulate the region’s essence. Distilled on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, the spirit is produced following the traditional London Dry method; however, its individuality lies in its tasting notes taken from the location. Enlisted to help create and refine the recipe, distillation expert David Clutton explains: “Cap Gin is built on a solid foundation of premium quality juniper berries. With citrus elements derived from lemon and sweet orange peel, the combination of aromatic fleur d’oranger buds and mimosa flowers delivers a complex, elegant and perfectly balanced gin.”
Based in West Cork, Ireland, Kinsale Mead Co. was established to share the ancient art of mead making with the world. Each batch uses natural ingredients, and variants of the beverage include Wild Red, Hazy Summer and Atlantic Dry. The latter is a delicious, off-dry, traditional style of the drink made from raw orange blossom honey that was carefully sourced from Southern Spain. This is mixed with local water and yeast before being fermented in the meadery. The drink delivers vibrant citrus and floral aromas, as well as long, lingering hints of honey with almost no sweetness. Best served lightly chilled or over ice as a pre-dinner refreshment, the mead pairs perfectly with salty appetisers such as olives, almonds or seafood.
www.capgin.com
www.kinsalemeadco.ie
085
Maximising the Opportunity in the US Hotel Market Over the past two issues, Supper has presented the findings of a Nielsen CGA research report examining the dining and imbibing behaviour of the hotel guest. In this final instalment, we look at the value of grab-and-go initiatives and room service.
In recent years, the traditional hotel model has evolved, with restaurants and bars increasingly contributing to the bottom line, and in some cases, generating more revenue than rooms. Knowing the guest – their demographic profile, needs and preferences – is cruicial to maximise this opportunity. As such, Nielsen CGA has conducted an online survey with a nationally representative sample of 5,000 consumers, gleaning insight into the sector. Revealing why, what, when and where hotel guests choose to drink, the report touches on several key areas including profiling the hotel consumer, the services being utilised, consumption behaviour and experience. Armed with this understanding, the report enables retailers, distributors, suppliers and hoteliers to make strategic, data-driven decisions as they expand into new areas of the hospitality industry.
GRAB-AND-GO INITIATIVES IN THE LOBBY With only 27% of consumers surveyed making use of grab-and-go, and 1-in-5 unaware of the services available, there’s room to grow profitability through driving higher awareness.
HAVE USED GRAB-AND-GO SERVICES IN A HOTEL 21-34-year-olds are the most likely to have used grab-and-go services in a hotel, +6pp versus the average US hotel visitor
WHAT DID YOU PURCHASE FROM A GRAB-AND-GO? Food and snacks are the most popular purchase at grab-and-go, followed by soft drinks. A variety of alcoholic beverages are also purchased, providing another way for suppliers to reach consumers. Food / snacks
Soft drinks
Vodka
Imported beer
Wine
78%
35%
8%
7%
7%
WHAT INFLUENCED YOUR DECISION TO PURCHASE FROM A GRAB-AND-GO? Grab-and-go’s popularity comes from its convenience. However, hotels need to ensure the service is clearly visible and appealing to increase the potential to compete with convenience stores.
086
Convenient / passing by
No waiting time
No grocery store nearby
Caught my attention
Price
64%
32%
28%
26%
23%
MARKET INSIGHT
UNDERSTANDING THE VALUE OF ROOM SERVICE In the last year, 29% of hotel visitors surveyed ordered room service, with the facility proving more popular in premium hotels categories.
HAVE ORDERED ROOM SERVICE IN THE LAST YEAR
WHAT INFLUENCED YOUR DECISION TO ORDER ROOM SERVICE? Convenience is a key reason to order room service, when consumers are tired or multi-tasking.
WHAT DID YOU PURCHASE FROM ROOM SERVICE? Getting the food offering right is key for room service. And while beer is the most popular alcoholic beverage ordered, tequila is the most popular spirit choice. Food
Soft drinks
Beer
Wine
Tequila
68%
21%
21%
16%
10%
WHO IS THE ROOM SERVICE CONSUMER? Users of room service are particularly high spenders on food and drink on average, so getting the proposition right can encourage repeat purchasing and increase revenue. Spend more at a hotel bar than usual
21% +7pp versus the average US hotel visitor
Very likely to trade up drink in a hotel
Average spend on food and drink per month
34%
US$161.26%
+5pp versus the average US hotel visitor
+US$22.46 versus the average US hotel visitor
55%
I use room service when I’m tired
23%
I want to work in my room while eating / drinking
18%
I do not want to visit a restaurant / bar alone
18%
I want to watch TV / make a call while eating / drinking
11%
I do not like the ambiance of a hotel restaurant / bar
These pages feature extracts from Nielsen CGA’s report, Maximising the Opportunity in the US Hotel Market, published in April 2019. To learn more, email hello@nielsencga.com and quote SUPPERHOTEL2019 for an exclusive discount. www.cga.co.uk
087
PETITS FOURS
Hepburn Nude
Crafted using lead-free crystal, the Hepburn series by glassmakers Nude and masterminded by Brad Ascalon, merges clean lines with brass-like accents to create a classic yet modern combination that exudes glamour. Guided by the principle of less is more, Ascalon’s design involves gently weighting the bottoms of the glasses to add stability and a sense of authority. The collection includes a cocktail shaker, mixing jug, and variety of martini and mixer glasses.
www.nudeglass.com
Gin LSA International LSA International’s Gin collection has been designed to enhance the expression of gin’s delicate botanicals and is ideal for serving a classic gin and tonic or an elevated cocktail recipe. Subtly flared stems, tapering forms and thick bases add distinctive detail to this assortment of contemporary handmade glasses, which features a variety of options including cocktail and balloon glasses, tumblers and highballs. The set is accompanied by serving apparel including a cocktail jug, stirrer and an ice bucket.
www.lsa-international.com
090
PETITS FOURS
3.
1.
2.
1. Line Table Craster
2. Pure Style Tafelstern
3. Diva WMF Professional
As part of the Parisian Hotel Lutetia’s four-year multi-million renovation, Craster was enlisted to create an innovative and impactful conferencing solution to celebrate the material history of the venue. The Line Table, which is available in beguiling black marble and steel, both contrasts and enhances the organic honey-coloured, whiplash forms of the Lutetia’s Art Nouveau origins – exemplified by the building’s high spaces and preoccupation with nature. Designed to enhance the elegance of the surrounding architecture, Craster’s latest invention is intelligent, luxurious and sustainable. www.craster.com
Premium porcelain manufacturer Tafelstern takes a novel approach toward exploring new crockery concepts and trends and its Pure Style collection is no exception. Adding a touch of flair to contemporary dining environments, the range’s earthy brown-beige tones add a natural look and feel whilst also being versatile enough to complement a variety of delicacies. The matte, silk sheen of the metallic relief with brush lining creates a meditative quality and has been carefully thought through to ensure that kitchens can experiment and conjure up unique and vividly colourful food arrangements. www.tafelstern.com
The classic, yet modern design of WMF Professional’s Diva beverage cooler provides both comfort and style to suit a variety of hospitality settings, from large conferences to intimate dining rooms. Unlike the standard, functional service of beverages, the soft lines of this stainless steel cooler are eye-catching and offer a sophisticated proposition. The cooler can be adapted to different customer requirements using the double-walled sleeve as a standalone item or with the cooling element in a modern crushed-ice look. Meanwhile, the cooling element retains its temperature and effectively cools drinks for up to three hours. www.wmf-professional.com
091
Linea Umana Rona Representing 125 years of glass masters’ skill, Rona has collaborated with award-winning Italian sommelier Maurizio Dante Fillip to deliver a collection that seamlessly balances sophisticated and utility. Comprising four wine and two water glasses, the Linea Umana range combines soft human lines with brilliance and quality, ensuring wines can be enjoyed at their very best. Crafted using pulledstem technology, the ultra-light pieces are notable for their slightly flared edge and smooth inner surface, which encourages the release of aromas.
www.rona.glass
092
PETITS FOURS
1.
3.
2.
1. Artisan Serving Spoon Tiger
2. Punto Copper Bonna
3. Revolution Steelite International
Korean manufacturer Tiger continues to expand its portfolio of buffetware options with a number of flatware solutions. The Artisan Serving Spoon is made from silicone and measures 27cm in length, making it an ideal specification for pans with a delicate surface. The serving tool is part of a six-piece set and is both dishwasher safe and easy to handle. Tiger’s buffet range also encompasses modular systems, carving stations, chafing dishes, heating lamps, trolleys and presentation stands. www.tiger.co.kr
Turkish tableware manufacturer Bonna, which supplies more than 20 countries worldwide, is committed to creating beautiful culinary settings with its innovative crockery solutions. Inspired by nature, the Punto Copper collection is crafted using a blend of raw materials and is produced using the latest technology, Boasting a copper finish, which gives it an elegant and rustic appearance, the range comprises a wide range of products and includes various sizes of plates and bowls as well as coffee apparel. www.bonna.com.tr
The Revolution range from Steelite represents a celebration of the beauty of artisanal glazing. Using specially formulated reactive glazes that change in colour and intensity and applied by hand using a revolving motion, every piece is as unique as the artisan who created it. Boasting a striking jade colour, the range can be used to showcase a plethora of cuisines, whilst the lifetime edge-chip guarantee warranty, ensures it will withstand the demands of busy and bustling kitchen environments. www.steelite.com
093
PETITS FOURS
Commercial Juicer Sunkist The Sunkist Sectionizer and Sectionizer Jr. can be used for wedging, slicing, coring or halving fruits and vegetables into uniform pieces, thanks to its six-wedge sectioniser. Launched alongside is the Sunkist Commercial Juicer, recognised by the industry as one of the most reliable commercial juicers on the market. Featuring a unique metal strainer and three extracting bulbs, allowing operators to produce between 20-25 gallons of juice per hour using precut citrus. Meanwhile, the new Pro Series Juicer is capable of extracting ten gallons of juice per hour.
www.sunkistequipment.com
094
OPEN FOR ENTRIES D E A D L I N E - 2 9 M AY Have you recently renovated a hotel bar or launched a brand new hotel restaurant within Europe? If the project opened between June 2019 - May 2020 then you are eligible to enter the AHEAD Europe awards. Visit aheadawards.com to get started
GLOBAL FOUNDER SPONSOR
ORGANISED BY
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POWERED BY
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ONLINE AT WWW.SUPPERMAG.COM
ADVERTISING INDEX ISSUE 20 AHEAD
096
Rona
Bonna
015
Siom
088
Cognac Frapin
079
Steelite
002
Craster
011
Stolzle
029
Gemini
073
Sunkist
035
099
HEPP
031
Tafelstern
100
John Jenkins
081
Tiger
033
LSA
008
To The Table
064
Nude
041
Vista Alegre
083
Pernod Ricard (Absolut Elyx)
006-007
William Edwards
005
Pordamsa
067
WNK
095
Revol
012
Zieher
059
Robert Welch
053
097
WASHING-UP
Gift Shop Goals
Elevating the humble souvenir to new heights, Mandarin Oriental Milan’s Dine & Design by Fornasetti is the holiday memento you won’t find in the gift shop.
098
Whether we commit to the pastime of collecting
in 1979 in tribute to the city, and has now been
souvenirs from our travels with gusto or guilt,
re-edited to celebrate the partnership.
the question remains the same: is it treasure or
The unique experience also includes a private
tat? For some, a fridge magnet haggled over in
tour of the brand’s flagship store in Milan, where
the souks of Marrakech is a tale to tell; for others,
a selection of furnishings and accessories feature
it’s just another piece of junk that will no doubt
alongside vintage works presented in a special
end up in a box in the attic.
‘cabinet of wonders’, as well as a three-course
For those who really treasure their keepsakes,
dinner at the hotel’s two Michelin-starred Seta
Mandarin Oriental Milan has joined forces with
restaurant, headed up by Executive Chef Antonio
Italian design house Fornasetti to create the
Guida. Parties of six or more can dine in the
ultimate holiday memento. Dine & Design by
newly unveiled Duomo private dining space,
Fornasetti offers guests the opportunity to stay
which, of course, is decorated with Fornasetti’s
in a suite adorned with the atelier’s whimsical
porcelain creations.
works, and ultimately take home a handmade
Alternatively, guests can take to the comfort of
porcelain plate featuring a historical depiction
their bespokely decorated suite and contemplate
of Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II shopping
just how they might transport their newly
arcade. Part of the Cupole d’Italia series, the
acquired Italian wares through aiport security
original design was created by Piero Fornasetti
and customs.
IIIIIIIIIIIII C R E A T E ! IIIIIIIIIIIII
www.tafelstern.com
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