Supper - Issue 20

HOTEL FOOD & DRINK

DAVIES AND BROOK – LONDON • MAURO COLAGRECO • PALACE HOTEL – TOKYO

CONTENTS ISSUE 20 042

STARTERS

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Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester

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Le Crocodile

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London © Read McKendree

Wythe Hotel Brooklyn

happyhappyjoyjoy 032 Crowne Plaza Amsterdam Zuid

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The Connaught Grill The Connaught London

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Davies and Brook

036

The Chinese National

042

Claridge’s London

Swissôtel PIK Avenue Jakarta

© Takaaki Ito

© Owen Raggett

MAIN COURSES

034

Esterre 048 Palace Hotel Tokyo

Kimpton Vividora Barcelona

054

Burbank 060 Roomers Frankfurt

003

CONTENTS ISSUE 20 SERVICE

016

Mauro Colagreco

016

Roger Olsson

022

Ahead of introducing his cuisine to the Thai capital, Michelin star Mauro Colagreco reflects on the irresistible success of Mirazur, sustainability, global expansion and the universal language of food.

Having risen up through the ranks of London’s most prestigious establishments, Swedish-born chef Roger Olsson now brings his creativity and flair to the kitchens of Hyatt Regency – The Churchill.

DINING © Matteo Carassale

074

022

Here to Stay

068

Following a surge in the popularity of blink-andyou’ll-miss-them pop-up concepts, hotels have been welcoming a different kind of temporary resident.

SIPPING Angels’ Share

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A rise in single-focus hotel bars specialising in whisky are giving the drink new life whilst engaging guests with refined yet accessible menus.

MARKET INSIGHT Maximising the Opportunity in the US Hotel Market

REGULARS Entrée 009

Drinks 084

Appetisers 013

Petits Fours

Signatures

Washing-Up 098

065

Cocktails 080

004

089

086

Over the past two issues, Supper has presented the findings of a Nielsen CGA research report examining the dining and imbibing behaviour of the hotel guest. In this final instalment, we look at the value of grab-and-go initiatives and room service.

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We Will Meet Again

A

s we were in the process of putting this latest issue of

preparation and cooking zones already adhere to stringent

Supper together, it was becoming increasingly clear that

hygiene standards; could simple solutions front-of-house,

COVID-19 will forever change the hospitality industry

such as cutlery arriving in a protective wrap – the same way

as we know it. With restrictions on travel, governmentenforced bans on public gatherings and strict limitations on social activity, the global pandemic has affected us all.

chopsticks do – put guests at ease?

Naturally the impact of the pandemic throws up many questions. Does an extended period of social distancing mean

The dining sector has been particularly hard hit however.

increasing the gap between tables and therefore serving

The shuttering of restaurants and bars had an immediate

fewer covers? Could this spell the end for open kitchens, live

impact, and while some have pivoted to take-away or home

cooking stations and buffets? Undoubtedly such changes will

delivery services, there’s already been casualties on the high

affect profit, but hotel F&B does have the advantage of being

street. And with chefs, mixologists and front-of-house staff

supported by room revenue. And the hospitality industry in

unable to work from home, millions of jobs are at risk. There’s

general has shown itself to be incredibly resilient in the past,

a huge amount of uncertainty as to whether venues can operate

adapting to change and looking to the design and development

again in the same capacity. So where does this leave those

community to come up with concepts and cuisines that

whose livelihood is built around bringing new restaurants and

appeal to the changing consumer. It’s this creativity that

bars to life; the very community that Supper serves?

Supper celebrates; from the unique flavour combinations of

In truth, it’s difficult to say, but there is hope. Humans are a social species and our encounters often centre around eating

a signature dish to the custom-made crockery it’s served on and the environment in which it’s enjoyed.

or drinking; we catch up over coffee, take a business lunch,

So while it’s far from business as usual for the venues

celebrate with cocktails or go out for dinner. It’s human nature

featured in this issue, we felt the hard work of all those

to connect, and hotels provide a place in which to do so. The

involved in bringing the spaces to life still deserves to be

past decade has seen more compelling hotel F&B concepts

celebrated. It may be a changed landscape, but the dining

come to light with a shift in focus from the transient guest to

sector will return, and restaurants and bars will once again

the local, a move that will pay off when it comes to reopening,

feel the buzz.

as many believe that F&B revenue will return before room revenue thanks to pent up demand for dining out in the local market. After weeks of not being able to socialise in person, restaurants and bars could well be the setting for the reunions we’re all longing for.

Cleanliness will of course become more important across all public spaces, and diners can take comfort in the fact that food

Catherine Martin • Managing Editor

009

THE BRIGADE

@SupperMag

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Group Credit Controller Lynette Levi

Features Editor Kristofer Thomas

Brand Director Amy Wright

Accounts Assistant Kerry Mountney

Editorial Assistant Donna Salek

Events & Marketing Millie Allegro

Accounts Assistant Idaira Canellas Gonzalez

Consulting Editor Heleri Rande

Data & Readership Hayley Redston

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APPETISERS

A

s the spread of Coronavirus has ushered

Rishi Sunak announce a £330 billion package

in a series of unprecedented lockdown

of support soon after, as well as the freezing of

measures, the hospitality market has

business rates for a year.

taken a significant share of the impact. As a result,

Brands have since taken steps to protect their

restaurants and bars around the world have been

workers; Manorview Hotels has retained all staff

forced to cease operations and furlough or lay-off

on 50% of their salaries, whist Whitbread – the

vast swathes of their workforce. In the UK, a study

parent company of Premier Inn – has pledged

by the University of Essex’s Institute for Social

to keep furloughed workers on full pay by

& Economic Research predicts 6.5 million jobs

topping up the 20% of wages lost as part of the

could be lost in the fallout, with accommodation

government retention scheme.

and F&B services bearing the brunt with over

Elsewhere, unable to work in their typical

1.3 million potentially unemployed. Across the

capacity, many chefs are finding ways to

Atlantic meanwhile, The US National Restaurant

contribute to the social battle against the virus.

Association has projected up to seven million out

Facilitated by the charity Chefs in Schools, a team

of work, and a US$225 billion decline in sales.

from The Dorchester have been volunteering in

As one of the early casualties of the crisis,

Tower Hamlets’ Manorfield Primary, where,

A Workforce Immobilised With hospitality markets worldwide suffering the economic impact of COVID-19, millions of hotel bar and restaurant jobs are on the line.

some restaurants and bars opted to pivot to

like many schools, the free meal programme

delivery or collection models. But even with this

continues to feed the children of key workers.

adaptation, job losses were inevitable, as chains

Likewise, kitchen staff from The Berkeley have

and independents alike sought to minimise

been working on a voluntary basis to deliver

overheads for the survival of the company.

more than 1,500 meals a week to locals. But

In the face of this crisis, prominent individuals

whilst essential in times like these, voluntary

and groups have been quick to emphasise the

services can only last as long as there is a support

need for both clarity and community. Early

system willing and able to keep those indefinitely

action included activist and chef Alex Claridge

treading water from sinking.

of The Wilderness in Birmingham launching a

A three-week extension to the UK lockdown

petition urging British Prime Minister Boris

was announced in mid-April by British deputy

Johnson to outline a clear support plan and take

Prime Minister Dominic Raab, though it is

responsibility for the livelihoods at stake.

looking increasingly likely that a longer period of

“I couldn’t sit by and watch the hard work of

distancing will be necessary, with estimates of up

my team, my peers and 3 billion other people

to a year until a vaccine is prepared. Whether this

crumble before my eyes overnight, and started a

support – by way of loosening measures or a full-

petition to ask for our questions to be answered,”

scale bail-out – is able to carry the considerable

Claridge explains. “The £75 billion contribution

weight this amount of unemployment and

the hospitality industry adds to the economy

revenue loss comes with, remains to be seen.

annually must, we argue, afford us at least that.”

Over 200,000 people signed, and contributed to ongoing industry pressure that saw Chancellor

013

W

hen travelling for work, eating healthily

experiences that will meet their health-conscious

and maintaining a fitness regime can

needs while away from home for an extended

be quite the challenge. With cocktail

period of time,” notes John Licence, Vice

receptions, dining out and long hours often part

President Premium and Select Brands at Marriott

of the job, some find it difficult to keep up with

International Europe. “The in-suite kitchens

good habits, whilst others simply miss home

ensure guests are provided with the tools to cook

comforts and the ritual of preparing meals.

whatever they want, whenever they want.”

A recent study commissioned by Residence

A 24-hour grocery delivery service is also

Inn by hotel group Marriott quizzed 1,000 British

included as part of the package, removing

adults on their culinary habits and found that two

the hassle of sourcing ingredients between

thirds of respondents miss home-cooked meals

appointments and meetings. “Guests can simply

when travelling, and almost 40% claim they

leave their shopping list with reception and their

would rather eat meals that they’ve rustled up

ingredients will be delivered to their suite on their

themselves than dine out in a fancy restaurant.

return after a day of work or out exploring the

The survey also revealed that 38% use cooking

local area,” adds Licence. “The grocery delivery

as a way to unwind after a hard day at work,

service is convenient for business travellers

Home Comforts Business travel can wreak havoc with health and fitness, but Residence Inn by Marriott is helping guests to make nutritious home-cooked meals from the comfort of their room.

with research suggesting that being able to

who are on-the-go and searching for a healthy

consistently prepare food promotes greater

alternative to eating out every night.”

wellbeing and all-round health. “Being able to

As one of the leaders of the extended-stay

cook your own meals ensures a healthy habit

segment, Residence Inn’s offer is geared towards

is honoured, by providing a moment to switch

maximising the limited free time business

off after a busy day,” says Carole Ann Rice, a

travellers do have, whilst also encouraging them

leading life coach who has worked with a variety

to keep fit and healthy. Collaborations with

of individual and corporate clients. “By going

sports company Under Armour and the creation

through slow motions such as chopping, blending

of mapped running routes around the hotel is a

and stirring, the brain is eased into an alpha state

further example of how they are trying to help

– a place of relaxation and a place where creative

guests stay on track with their goals.

thoughts can be ignited.”

part of the job, but as the extended-stay segment

Residence Inn properties have been designed with

continues to grow, so too will innovations in the

the needs of the modern traveller in mind. Each

sector, resulting in services and experiences that

suite comes with a fully equipped kitchen that

give guests that feeling of home wherever they

includes a full-size refrigerator, hob, microwave,

might be.

dishwasher and coffee-maker, ensuring guests have everything they need to create nutritious meals from the comfort of their suite.

“Residence Inn suits guests who want to live better and have access to amenities and

014

For many, business travel is a fundamental

Replicating this in the hotel setting, Marriott’s

Beyond Borders Ahead of introducing his cuisine to the Thai capital, Michelin star Mauro Colagreco reflects on the irresistible success of Mirazur, sustainability, global expansion and the universal language of food.

Words: Neena Dhillon • Portrait Photography: © Matteo Carassal

T

o call his rise meteoric would be

resort benefits from an enviable waterfront setting

something of an understatement.

in the historic Charoenkrung neighbourhood on the

Within a year of founding Mirazur in the

doorstep of Bangkok’s first official Creative District.

French medieval town of Menton back in

Alongside the 101 guestrooms, suites and villas, the

2006, Argentine-born Mauro Colagreco

food and beverage offer will comprise a contemporary

had collected his first Michelin star.

restaurant serving authentic Thai cuisine, an ethereal

Maintaining this culinary momentum, he worked

venue for bespoke patisserie and handcrafted

toward the double in 2012 before hitting gold early last

cocktails, an elegant tea lounge and, as the signature,

year when he became France’s only non-French chef

Côte by Mauro Colagreco – a culinary journey into the

to be awarded three stars, ruffling a few feathers in the

Mediterranean. “The ethos of Capella is very much in

process. The accolades kept flooding in, with Mirazur

line with my philosophy,” he says about the venture.

taking top spot on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants

“To respect nature and to use fresh and high-quality

list in 2019 and Colagreco then named the World’s

produce that is as local and organic as possible.”

Most Influential Chef by a prestigious panel of his

To really understand the 43-year-old chef’s

peers. In between tending to Mirazur, he’d also been

philosophy requires a glance into his past, to his

steadily building a presence in hospitality kitchens,

childhood in Argentina as part of a close family of Italian

partnering with five-star hotel operators in Beijing,

descent. He was a relative late starter, toying first with

Cotai, Dubai and Florida’s Palm Beach. This autumn –

the idea of following his father into accountancy and

pandemic permitting – the highly anticipated Capella

then diverting his ambitions temporarily to a literary

Bangkok opens its doors, showcasing his gastronomy

career. Frustrated by a lack of clear direction, he was

in Thailand for the first time.

rescued by the seed of an idea planted by his sister,

“This will be a beautiful project,” says the chef,

who reminded him of just how happy he had been

describing the first Thai outpost from Capella Hotels

when cooking with his grandmother. Staying with his

& Resorts. As part of Country Group Development’s

paternal grandparents during the school holidays, he

landmark US$1 billion Chao Phraya Estate, the urban

would watch as his Basque grandmother cooked fresh

SERVICE

© Eduardo Torres

SERVICE

Specialities served at Mirazur include pigeon with wild strawberries, spelt and yarrow

pasta to keep her husband happy. The memory jolted something, unearthing within him a hidden passion.

Having realised where his true calling lay, Colagreco attended the Gato Dumas Institute in Buenos Aires before heading to France in his early 20s to study what he considers to be “the base of Western cuisine”. During his first year of attending the Lycée Hôtelier de La Rochelle, he secured an internship with Bernard Loiseau at La Côte d’Or in Saulieu. It was only supposed to last a matter of months but Loiseau asked him to stay and he jumped at the chance, moving up the kitchen ranks to become a demi-chef de partie. Sadly, Loiseau committed suicide in 2003, prompting Colagreco to move on to Paris, first to Arpège under Alain Passard followed

by Hotel Plaza Athénée under Alain Ducasse.

“Each teacher left me with something; from Loiseau, I learnt to prepare sauces; from Passard, I absorbed his incredible passion for vegetables; and with Ducasse, it was the sense of excellence and perfection in each ingredient.”

cheese and fresh fish – depending naturally on the day and season.

This

hyper-local

commitment

to

sourcing forms the bedrock of Colagreco’s sustainable approach. “Chefs with fine dining establishments have a responsibility,” he points out. “We are in direct contact with producers and benefit from a visibility that allows us to have a direct impact on the social fabric. So we should dictate trends, educate our teams and share our values with a wider audience.” In practical terms, along with seasonality and a devotion to local produce, he has implemented a zero-waste policy at Mirazur so no part of any ingredient is overlooked but utilised instead to make everything from sauces to broths or to serve as compost for the gardens. Being positioned directly by the sea also means the

“Each teacher left me with something,” recalls

team are acutely aware of the waste that ends

Colagreco. “From Loiseau, I learnt to prepare

up in the water and so they have eliminated

sauces; from Passard, I absorbed his incredible

single-use plastics from the kitchen, gaining

passion for vegetables; and with Ducasse, it was

official certification.

the sense of excellence and perfection in each

There isn’t a formal menu as priority is given

ingredient.” Indeed, so high is his regard for

to product quality. When we speak of seasons,

Plaza Athénée that this is where the Mirazur

chef says there are 365 rather than just four at Mirazur and this informs what is served daily

team celebrated their most recent Michelin win.

Back to his hotel days in Paris and the

been lovingly developed to supply 40% of the

– it’s fresh and very immediate, unleashing

15-hour-plus shifts had started to take their

kitchen’s needs today. There’s an abundant

the power of sun-drenched Mediterranean

toll. So Colagreco started mulling over the idea

150-plus varieties of herbs, fruits, vegetables,

ingredients. Perhaps this is why he doesn’t

of setting up his own place. The trouble was

edible flowers and the region’s famed citrus and

like to select his favourite plates – it’s an

he had no money and no financial backing.

avocado trees. Hens are kept and beehives for

impossible, ever-evolving choice. But they do all

Fortuitously a friend told him about a neglected

efficient pollination of crops. “Our garden is

share a common culinary language, vibrant and

restaurant in a then-little-known coastal town

an expression of nature,” chef elaborates. “We

pictorial, they play with texture and contrast.

on the edge of the Côte d’Azur, metres from

use permaculture techniques and, of course,

Take the combination of salt-crusted beetroot

the border between France and Italy. Despite

everything is organic. The garden is not only

with caviar cream or a dish known simply

knowing nothing of the terrain or culture of

a source of produce but also of inspiration

as ‘Green’ in which peas and kiwi have the

Menton, this crossroads at the passage between

and life. We don’t believe in using 100% of

starring roles. Bordighera squid is transformed

two countries, between sea and mountains,

ingredients from our own garden, however,

through a textural twist accompanied by garlic

between national identities, spoke to him. He

because cooking is about reflecting the people of

and anchovy-infused bagna cauda sauce

persuaded the owner of the eccentric 1930s

the region. So we shop at organic markets and

while pigeon interacts artistically with wild

rotunda-shaped building, with the sweeping

have close relationships with local producers and

strawberries, spelt and yarrow.

views of the bay, to give him a chance.

fishermen too. It’s important to support local

Of course, ownership of a restaurant affords

At the heart of Mirazur is the multi-tiered

life and biodiversity.” From Italian markets and

a chef ultimate freedom but how practical is

garden. Cascading down rocky terraces that

fishermen can come asparagus, cherries and

this approach in Bangkok, for instance? Can he

sit within their own microclimate, it has

prawns, from French producers, lemons, goat’s

maintain his standards of sustainability? While

019

“The ethos of Capella is very much in line with my philosophy; to respect nature and to use fresh and highquality produce that is as local and organic as possible.”

Another Mirazur favourite is the salt-crusted beetroot with caviar cream

he acknowledges the city has a very different

and the flesh adapts. So our Monkfish ‘a la

landscape to the South of France, he explains

Cacciatora’ involves the fish being grilled

how “as much as possible, we want to work in

and served with a mushroom broth and fresh

the same way, so we are meeting and forming

herbs. On the side, we’ll place a second serving

relationships with local suppliers – a short

of monkfish liver ‘torchon’ for which we use

circuit, as I say – and exploring in-season

the classic Japanese ‘Ankimo’ technique.” This

produce to see how we can incorporate it into

preview dish hints at Asian cooking techniques

the menu. Of course, it’s challenging but it’s

but will Thai culinary heritage also be recognised

really important we find solutions.”

at Côte? “We will incorporate Thai ingredients

In Bangkok, Colagreco’s Côte will focus on the

such as ginger, lemongrass, kaffir lime and

culinary heritage of both the French and Italian

pomelo,” he confirms. “Thai cuisine includes

Rivieras. “Up until 1860, Nice was part of Italy

a lot of sauces made using a pestle and mortar,

so there’s always been a connection between the

similar to the French Riviera and Italian Liguria

French Riviera and Liguria,” he notes. “There

where sauces and condiments are often created

is a rich culinary tradition from Nice along to

in the same way.”

Genoa, from which we will take produce and

Alongside a conventional menu, guests at

flavour inspiration, creating dishes.” The

Côte will have the option of the ‘blind’ nine-

menu will be specially designed for Côte, with

course tasting experience for dinner, which

just techniques and philosophy flown in from

draws on seasonality and the best ingredients

Mirazur. “I can tell you about one plate, which

available day-to-day. Starting with small dishes

marries the sea and land,” Colagreco reveals.

in the show kitchen before the main event,

“Traditionally you will see chicken in this dish

there will also be an opportunity post-meal to

but we wanted an alternative ingredient. We

tour the hotel’s organic garden and hydroponic

soon discovered that monkfish is the perfect

wall, known as ‘Green House’, currently being

substitute because it has a low-fat content

cultivated to nurture a combination of Western

© Lopez de Zubiria

020

SERVICE

and Thai shrubs, vines and trees. Green House will

a month.” Indeed, Davide Garavaglia, former Chef de

accommodate chef’s table dinners and cooking classes,

Cuisine at Mirazur, is now resident in Bangkok for

representing a shared resource for all the F&B venues

Côte’s forthcoming opening.

at Capella Bangkok.

Côte by Mauro Colagreco at the forthcoming Capella Bangkok will be a culinary journey into the Mediterranean

In addition to Colagreco’s fine dining establishments,

Colagreco has talked in the past about common

his outlets include an organic fast-food concept known

bridges between South American and Asian cuisine.

as Carne in Argentina as well as a pizza restaurant

When he picked up one of his awards last year, he

called Pecora Negra, located in the port of Menton. He

rushed onto the stage with four flags, representing

is currently working on the opening of Mitron Bakery

his native Argentina, the dual French and Italian

in the centre of the old town, which specialises in

nationalities of his global Mirazur team, and finally

organic bread produced by cultivating a variety of

the country of his Brazilian wife, who oversees front-

ancient grains. “Menton is my playground and, when

of-house in Menton. These are clues to how Colagreco

I have new ideas, it’s always the place I try them

regards food. For him, it is the universal language,

out,” he says. As for the motivation behind what he

transcending borders. “I prepare ingredients in a way

does, whether in France, Argentina or Thailand, he is

that I believe best displays their unique characteristics,

fuelled by a simple desire. And that is to evoke lasting

from the techniques I have learnt on my travels,” he

memories, as he concludes: “Each guest is different

observes. “I allow myself total creative freedom to use

and we try to understand who they are, allowing them

influences from across the world.”

to feel and create emotions. This could be achieved by

With restaurants on different continents, he is

having them retry with us an ingredient they usually

fully aware of the challenges that will be thrown up

dislike, or having them discover a product for the first

in maintaining quality and is cognisant of the need

time, or a flavour that reminds them of childhood; the

to stay closely connected: “Each restaurant takes a

possibilities are infinite.”

lot of planning; we train the staff ahead of opening for many months and fly some of them to Mirazur so they can understand our entire philosophy. My trusted team travels a lot and visits all our restaurants twice

021

SERVICE

Scandinavian Sensibilities Having risen up through the ranks of London’s most prestigious establishments, Swedish-born chef Roger Olsson now brings his creativity and flair to the kitchens of Hyatt Regency – The Churchill.

Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: © Courtesy of Hyatt

A

ssured, gracious and affable,

working as a commis chef on a submarine.

Roger

the

Not one to be caught up in the retrospective

humblest chefs you could ever

romanticism of a so-called kitchen calling,

hope to encounter. When we

his memories of adolescence feature boyhood

meet on a fresh spring morning

dreams of playing professional ice hockey or

in early March, the Hyatt

becoming an architect. “I never planned to be

Regency London’s newly appointed Executive

a chef, I had no aspiration as such, there is

Chef has just finished serving almost 150 à la

no beautiful story,” he confesses. Putting his

carte breakfasts in the hotel’s restaurant, The

dreams on hold to fulfil compulsory service in

Montagu Kitchen. This is a marked change

the Swedish Navy, over a period of 18 months he

from the usual buffet service, deemed unviable

grew to love the creativity that cooking provided

at a time when a global pandemic had begun

and a life behind the pass beckoned.

Olsson

is

one

to take hold across the capital. In spite of this,

“I always thought I was going to be an

Olsson enters the room radiating positivity and

architect, but I soon found out that the process

warmth and whilst the breakfast sitting hasn’t

is too long,” Olsson explains. “I felt that cooking

been without its difficulties, he has become

held many similarities to architecture’s creative

accustomed to weathering stormy waters and

process but it was more fun and had a touch of

taking new challenges in his stride.

rock n’ roll about it; it has the joy of bringing

Born in Sweden, Olsson’s culinary career began whilst undertaking national service,

a smile to people’s faces, which is something I strive for.”

SERVICE

The Montagu Kitchen serves modern British cuisine inspired by the Chartwell gardens

Back on dry land, he secured an apprenticeship at the restaurant Coq Blanc in Sweden, where a visit from notorious chef Marco Pierre White, whose book White Heat became a culinary bible for a brigade of aspiring chefs, stoked a fire in a young Olsson. “I planned to go abroad for five years, but received the advice that if I went to England I could learn the same level of cooking

“I focus on flavours and ingredients and try to implement my taste and most importantly my learnings.”

far from plain sailing. Laughing as he recalls a particularly eventful weekend, which entailed bankrolling the produce order for the hotel’s first wedding banquet of 250 guests, partaking in the Taste of Cork Festival and the arrival of his youngest child, he still manages to find the humour in what many would regard as a rather unfortunate turn of luck.

without needing to learn a new language, so

After three years, he returned to England,

I came here and every time I tried to leave,

taking up the role of Executive Chef at five-

something better came along.”

star Bovey Castle in Devon where he worked for

As London’s restaurant scene began to

just over a year before making the move back

attract international interest in the 1990s,

to London as he set his sights on the capital.

23-year-old Olsson found himself cooking in

“It was a no-brainer for me in terms of getting

some of the city’s most exciting restaurants.

the diversity of experience and a similar kind of

Whilst the young chef cut his teeth in some of

platform,” says the chef.

the capital’s top kitchens, among them, The

Alongside chefs John Williams and Adam

Square, helmed by widely admired chef Phil

Smith, Olsson took up the position of Executive

Howard and L’Oranger, where he honed his

Sous Chef at The Ritz in 2012 and revelled in

skills working under Marcus Wareing, it was

the quality of produce and the culinary clout of

an eight-year stint at Michelin-starred Pied-à-

its brigade. “It was the best produce I’ve ever

Terre, working his way up to senior sous chef,

“When Tom [Aitkens] called a month ago and

worked with, I really enjoyed that side of it,”

where he developed an appetite for fine-dining.

asked if I could help his team during service

he enthuses. The following year, the Executive

Standing shoulder to shoulder with the likes

on his 50th birthday at his new restaurant in

Chef of The Dorchester, Henry Brosi, offered

of Tom Aitkens and Shane Osborne, this period

Belgravia, it confirmed that the effort I made

him a role as Chef de Cuisine at the hotel’s

of his career was characterised by results, high

20 years ago still counts.”

legendary Grill. Waiting until a vacancy for

pressure and a relentless work schedule, but the

The turning point in his career presented

Executive Sous Chef opened up a few months

chef believes it was necessary for developing

itself at a time when Olsson’s family dynamic

later, Olsson joined the team, where he stayed

resilience. With his trademark humility, he

was beginning to evolve and the opportunity to

for four years, developing a close bond with his

speaks both fondly and nostalgically of this

find a greater work-life balance became more

mentor Brosi. “Henry is an absolute legend,

time, always pausing to credit the individuals

pressing. “There came a time when my role

kind and super funny,” smiles Olsson. “Talented

who played a role in shaping him into the chef

didn’t match the responsibilities of a young

and everything you could wish for in terms of

he is today.

parent,” he explains. Olsson’s foray into hotels

guidance on how to navigate in a large hotel.”

“I’m in a category of chefs who are inspired

appeared to be the natural next step and in 2007

His appetite to be part of a new venture was

by the true greats,” admits Olsson. “Some

he was approached by Peter Schoch, previously

satisfied once more when he was asked to be

claim to be independent in their style, whereas

Executive Chef for The Ritz-Carlton Millenia

part of the team that launched The Principal

I focus on flavours and ingredients and try to

Singapore, who was helping to develop the

London, now Kimpton Fitzroy. Assuming the

implement my taste and most importantly my

Capella brand and asked the chef on board.

position of Executive Chef, Olsson came on

learnings.”

Uprooting to Ireland, Olsson took up the

board for the pre-launch in May 2017 and stayed

As part of the team who helped Pied-à-

role of Executive Chef at Capella Castlemartyr

until September 2019 before contemplating a

Terre regain its second Michelin star, Olsson

in County Cork, allowing him to focus on both

move to The Singapore Edition. However, in

is notable for his generosity of praise, a trait

his family and food. However, due to the global

another twist of fate, a bike accident in the

that has gone on to serve him particularly well.

recession in 2008, his first year in the role was

Alps put the brakes on this plan, giving him

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SERVICE

“I like honest food that is refined, elements of fine-dining in an approachable setting, that’s not too pretentious.”

further time to reflect and eventually leading

new approach, I feel we need to channel all our

him to accept a role as the Executive Chef at

energy to improve and open up with a trulyly

Hyatt Regency London – The Churchill, where

great offering.”

he found his philosophy perfectly aligned with the brand.

Not long after we speak, The Churchill, like many hotels and restaurants across London

Since the beginning of January, Olsson has

is forced to close its doors as a consequence

been busy overseeing all of the culinary menus

of the Coronavirus outbreak. Despite this,

in the hotel including the British seasonal

Olsson is confident in his ability to steer his

dining restaurant The Montagu Kitchen, the

team whilst also supporting the restaurant’s

award-winning Churchill Bar & Terrace, and

suppliers throughout the crisis. “I aim to learn

the in-room dining offering and banqueting

and understand more about Kent and how we

menus. Overlooking the private gardens of

can support growers and producers during and

Portman Square, The Montagu Kitchen takes

after this unprecedented time.”

its inspiration from the year-round gardens

From the palpable drama of the White Heat

of Chartwell, Sir Winston Churchill’s former

days to the current climate of openness and

private residence, a concept that the chef is keen

transparency, Olsson has seen the kitchen

to keep evolving.

environment evolve significantly and is used

“I like honest food that is refined, elements

to the trials and tribulations that come with

of fine-dining in an approachable setting, that’s

working in challenging circumstances. “It’s

not too pretentious,” notes Olsson. “What we

not often that you get 90 days into a new role

try to do here is driven by Churchill’s life and

and then have to press pause for a significant

whilst we don’t get our produce from Chartwell

amount of time, but I’m going to make the

we take a lot of inspiration from it and focus

most of it with the team here at Hyatt Regency

on sustainability – how can you make those

London.” As someone who refuses to dwell on

changes for the greater good, we have to do

the past, his skill, resolve and humility will

this, our guests demand it, they’re a lot more

serve him well in his latest post, no matter how

educated and aware.”

uncertain the future may be.

The menu features dishes such as Golden Beetroot Salad, Roasted Celeriac and Canterbury Risotto as well as a strong selection of meat and fish including Dingley Pork Belly and North Atlantic Halibut, something that tallies with the chef’s desire to cook modern British food.

“With the current crisis I am hoping to take this as an opportunity to align and develop a

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Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester LONDON

Words: Catherine Martin Photography: © Ed Reeve

IN A BITE Covers: 82 Operator: Dorchester Collection Interior Design: Jouin Manku Lighting Design: Voyons Voir Headline Chef: Alain Ducasse Executive Chef: Jean-Philippe Blondet Restaurant Director: Enrico Baronetto Head Sommelier: Pierre-Marie Faure www.alainducasse-dorchester.com

028

I

n the 13 years since Jouin Manku first

while the introduction of curved wood and

designed a restaurant for Alain Ducasse at The

leather banquettes anchor the tables within.

Dorchester, the surrounding district of Mayfair

Taking inspiration from nearby Hyde Park,

has evolved to attract a much younger crowd,

Jouin Manku’s concept plays with the idea of

enticed by fancy new residential developments,

an atmospheric mist that cloaks an enchanted

fashion boutiques and an influx of trendy bars,

forest, lifting to reveal moments of magic. An

clubs and eateries.

airy palette of oak, cotton and zinc contrasts

With that in mind, Dorchester Collection

with the smoky hues of the custom-made

decided that its restaurant portfolio was in need

furniture, while new floor lamps and cut-

of a refresh. The Grill relaunched last November

glass candle holders twinkle come nightfall.

with Tom Booton – the hotel’s youngest ever

Jouin Manku also designed a new carpet, its

Head Chef – at the helm, while Alain Ducasse

green and silver tones progressively lightening

at The Dorchester has undergone a soft

towards the centre of the room, suggesting

refurbishment, bringing a new energy to the

the lifting of the mist to unveil the Table

space. In redefining the offer, the group once

Lumière. The restaurant’s showpiece is a private

again turned to Patrick Jouin and Sanjit Manku

dining experience with an ethereal setting, its

– the Parisian duo behind a number of Ducasse’s

shimmering curtain of fibre optics providing a

ventures – challenging them to inject a more

dazzling backdrop to Ducasse’s seven-course

contemporary look and feel while retaining the

tasting menu, in which fine seasonal produce

restaurant’s much-loved soul that has been the

combines with French haute-cuisine for dishes

setting for many a special occasion.

that are elegant and contemporary with a light

In the main dining area, the removal of

and surprising twist. Following the debut of the

screens at the entrance opens up the space to

new-look interiors, the three-Michelin starred

make for a more memorable arrival experience,

cuisine now has a setting to match.

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Le Crocodile Wythe Hotel BROOKLYN

H

aving kickstarted a wave of stylish

explains. “Because we had such an incredible

Brooklyn openings in 2012, Wythe Hotel

scale and existing height in the building to start,

is now seeking to reinstate its F&B offer

we decided to let the eye rest and played with a

with the introduction of Le Crocodile, a new ground floor brasserie styled on the touchstones of old-world hospitality.

Words: Kristofer Thomas Photography: © Read McKendree

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Chefs Jake Leiber and Aidan O’Neal of Brooklyn hotspot Chez Ma Tante serve up a local

Designed by Loren Daye of New York-based

take on French classics, having previously been

studio Loveisenough, in collaboration with

drafted by Neidich to oversee the lighter food

Golden Age Hospitality restaurateur Jon Neidich,

offer at the hotel’s rooftop bar, Lemon’s.

Le Crocodile takes the form of an elongated

In defining the new concept, the trio travelled

dining room defined by exposed red brick walls

across Europe to experience old-world venues

and towering original windows from the hotel’s

and sample various cuisines. The resulting

former life as a waterfront factory.

menu includes highlights such as boudin blanc

Inspired by the traditional coffee houses of

sausage with shellfish bisque and aioli; steak

Vienna, the space is bright by day and softly lit

frite au poivre; and escargots with parsley and

by night, with globe lights and custom fixtures

pernod, while the dessert menu features French

hanging above burgundy leather booths and

favourites of tarte tatin, profiteroles, tarte au

dark walnut tables. Timber wall panelling and a

citron and madeleines.

marble bar complete the look, with an expansive

IN A BITE Operator: Golden Age Hospitality Interior Design: Loveisenough Head Chefs: Jake Leiber and Aidan O’Neal www.lecrocodile.com

contrast of ideas and concepts instead.”

run of mirrors mounted to reflect the scene.

Neidich and Golden Age Hospitality – the group behind Manhattan cocktail bar Slowly

“We thought a lot about what makes a

Shirley and American bistro Acme – took over

great room with play of scale, sightlines, good

Wythe Hotel’s F&B programme in early 2019,

acoustics, layering of light, hidden moments

with Le Crocodile marking the culmination of a

and architecture to anchor yourself to,” Daye

12-month refurbishment programme.

An eye-catching trend: stonewashing transforms every cutlery into unique pieces with a typical „used“ or industrial look.

www.hepp.de

STARTER

happyhappyjoyjoy Crowne Plaza Amsterdam Zuid AMSTERDAM

Words: Donna Salek Photography: © Adam van Noort

IN A BITE Covers: 147 Owner: UBM Operator: IHG Architecture and Interior Design: Concrete, JPS Architecten F&B Consultant: IQ Creative www.happyhappyjoyjoy.asia

032

S

ince the first happyhappyjoyjoy opened

corners, curved central booths and high stools

its doors in the west of Amsterdam in

with water views; come summer, there will also

2015, the Asian street food restaurant has

be a large outdoor terrace for al fresco dining.

become wildly popular, so much so that the

The bar area – positioned between the hotel

brand now counts five outposts in the same city.

and the restaurant’s main entrance – features a

Earlier this year, happyhappyjoyjoy landed

striking installation of multicoloured lightboxes

in Amsterdam’s Downtown district, quickly

overhead, while on the back wall, glass fridges

followed by a new addition in the south, the

framed by painted wooden shutters exhibit

latter marking the first association with a

a collection of exotic drinks. In the main

global hotel group. Occupying a prime spot on

restaurant, the eye is immediately drawn to a

the ground floor of Crowne Plaza Amsterdam

ceiling of back-lit red parasols, complemented

Zuid – located within the rapidly developing

by waving lucky cats dotted around and walls

Zuidas business district – the fifth outlet once

plastered with posters, illustrations and prints.

again brings the rich flavours and bright colours

As with other happyhappyjoyjoy restaurants,

of Asia to the fore in a scheme designed by

the menu takes inspiration from across Asia,

Concrete in collaboration with JPS Architecten.

encompassing small sharing plates such as

With Concrete responsible for establishing

rainbow-coloured baos, dim-sum, curries and

the original concept, interior design and graphic

rendang, as well as desserts like mango bao,

identity of the brand, signature elements such

Indonesian Spekkoek and bubble tea, which

as the cursive, neon-red signage make an

will no doubt come as a welcome break from

appearance, along with an immersive explosion

the typical lunch fare for the district’s office

of colour, geometric prints and unusual objects.

workers. And if the business talk gets tedious,

The restaurant is divided into a variety of

there’s even a private karaoke room to liven

spaces to suit every occasion, with intimate

things up.

PASSION FOR BUFFET

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www.tigerhotel.co.kr

STARTER

The Connaught Grill The Connaught LONDON

Words: Jenna Campbell Photography: © Jamie McGregor Smith

O

ne of London’s most celebrated

to the main room, where craftsmanship reigns

restaurants, The Connaught Grill has

supreme. Handcrafted American black walnut

reopened its doors to a new generation of

runs throughout the space in the form of dining

diners in the heart of Mayfair. First established

booths, freeform-edge tables and chairs and

in 1955, it was the go-to culinary destination

solid back panels, with the wood polished, cut

for the capital’s original power players, before

and trimmed in the Nakashima workshop and

closing in 2000 to make way for new ventures.

assembled at The Connaught under the watchful

But ever since Maybourne Hotel Group set about

eye of Mira Nakashima.

a £70 million renovation back in 2007, there’s

From the open kitchen – complete with wood-

been talk of restoring the concept, a dream that

burning grill and rotisserie – Vongerichten pays

finally came to fruition last month under the

homage to classic grill dining, bringing his own

charge of Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

signature twist. Meat and fish are grilled using

“Ever since we started the project I have

British hardwood charcoal with embers of burnt

dreamt of breathing life back into The

applewood, the fuel’s constant heat enhancing

Connaught Grill, a mythical restaurant that

natural flavours and adding subtle sweet notes.

somehow captures a special place in guest’s

IN A BITE Covers: 46 Owner: Paddy McKillen Interior Design: John Heah Woodwork: George Nakashima Woodworkers Chef Partner: Jean-Georges Vongerichten Executive Chef: Anshu Anghotra Executive Pastry Chef: Nicolas Rouzaud www.the-connaught.co.uk

034

hearts,” says co-owner Paddy McKillen.

Sea bass en croute and sunday roasts are presented and carved on a restored silver trolley

With a respectful nod to its heritage,

and followed up with traditional desserts such

interior architect John Heah has created a

as sticky toffee pudding and flambéed Baked

contemporary interpretation of the original

Alaska, while the fabled Oeuf en Surprise – a

grill, enlisting the skills of George Nakashima

favourite from the original menu reinterpreted

Woodworkers for the exquisite wood artistry.

as a three-cheese soufflé served with a softly

A rosewood-clad corridor lined with custom

cooked egg and black truffle fondue – captures

cabinets housing vintage wines leads guests

the spirit of this legendary institution.

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Davies and Brook Claridge’s LONDON Acclaimed Swiss chef Daniel Humm makes his return to the Mayfair hotel where his career began, serving up dishes that celebrate the very best of British seasonality.

Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: Courtesy of Maybourne Hotel Group

A

s this article goes to print, chefs Daniel Humm and Dmitri Magi and their teams on both sides of the Atlantic are feeding staff on the frontline, diligently

preparing and packaging thousands of meals, each topped with a handwritten note of encouragement, to send to the healthcare workers fighting the virus that has brought the world to a standstill. “Living through this will help me understand what the world – when we come out of this – will look like and help guide what this means to fine-dining and our restaurants,” writes Humm in an emotional Instagram post, leaving a note of concern in the air.

Following years of planning, Humm’s new restaurant had been open a matter of weeks before the global pandemic forced its closure. But rather than put their feet up, the London team – led by Head Chef Dmitri Magi – stayed in the kitchen to cook for those in need. “I feel an immense sense of pride and accomplishment,” Magi explains. “We are hospitality people and we live to make others feel better,

037

Celebrating British seasonality, dishes include poached lobster served with swede and pear

so when you take that sense of purpose and

America,” explains Humm. “What most people

you put it at service for the most noble cause,

don’t know is that I worked at Claridge’s when I

well, that is pretty much the best thing that

was 15-years-old and it left an indelible mark; it

can happen.”

has always been a place I’ve felt connected to, so

It’s this spirit, fostered by Humm’s company Make It Nice, that will no doubt serve the

038

being able to come full circle is really emotional and exciting – it feels like coming home.”

company well when business does return. Along

Bringing a vision to life in a building that

with a stellar reputation of course. Located

demands so much, both in terms of architecture

within London’s Claridge’s, Davies and Brook is

and gastronomy, is no mean feat, so Humm

a sibling to Eleven Madison Park in New York –

assembled a trusted team of associates. As

widely regarded as one of the best restaurants in

with the renovation of Eleven Madison Park

the world having gained the maximum number

in 2017, he once again collaborated with Brad

of Michelin stars as well as six James Beard

Cloepfil of Allied Works to design the interiors.

awards, amongst other accolades.

A home crafted exactly as the chef envisioned,

Humm appears to be one of those chefs who

the ceiling has been re-modelled after the

will never stop improving; his charisma and

original coffered ones, and stoneware plates

drive to make the world better, one dish at a

are custom-made by special order from Jars,

time, is both captivating and endearing. But this

a French ceramics company. Photography by

latest venture is one that’s particularly close to

Humm’s friend, American artist Roni Horn,

his heart, having peeled potatoes in the kitchens

depicting Icelandic landscapes adorn the grey

of Claridge’s some thirty years ago. “This is

walls, whilst colonnades wrapped in Irish

my first time opening a restaurant in Europe, a

cast crystal add a certain level of Claridge’s-

place I left so many years ago to forge a career in

like ethos to the ensemble. The bar, which

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has changed significantly since the Fera days,

There’s plenty of vegetable dishes too; the

sits by the restaurant entrance, where guests

carrot salad with sunflower seeds, horseradish

can indulge in one of Head Bartender Pietro

and pickled quail egg and the aubergine with

Collina’s creations and get a taste of CFC,

coriander and roasted garlic, are as delightful

Claridge’s buttermilk fried chicken, before being

in colour as they are in taste.

shown to their table.

040

On the dessert list, Humm has brought his

The kitchen is being overseen by Estonian-

signature apple cider doughnuts and milk and

born Magi, the former chef de cuisine of Eleven

honey soft serve over from New York, which will

Madison Park, who has also held positions at

no doubt be a hit with diners.

esteemed establishments including Noma in

While the 83-seat dining room is currently

Copenhagen and Gramercy Tavern in New York.

devoid of buzz, anxiously awaiting to be

While sharing some influences with its sibling

reopened, Humm is proud of what he and his

across the pond, the menu at Davies and Brook

team have created. “Having the opportunity to

is designed to celebrate British seasonality –

bring cuisine and hospitality to the most storied

with a few surprises along the way. Alongside

hotel in the world is really a remarkable feeling

signature dishes such as duck glazed with honey

and a dream come true,” he notes. There’s a

and lavender, there are new arrivals including

palpable desire to return to what he’s best at;

char ceviche with avocado and cucumber, and

being able to surprise and delight guests with

poached turbot served with shiitake mushrooms

his cuisine. The world needs to be made nice

and garlic.

again. And it will.

IN A BITE Covers: 83 Owner: Make It Nice Operator: Maybourne Hotel Group, Make It Nice Interior Design: Allied Works Chef Patron: Daniel Humm Head Chef: Dmitri Magi Head Bartender: Pietro Collina F&B Manager: Billy Peelle www.claridges.co.uk

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21.02.2020 11:46

The Chinese National Swissôtel PIK Avenue JAKARTA Four hospitality concepts in one, The Chinese National pays respect to traditional Cantonese cuisine through an assimilation of modern and unique design twists.

Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: © Owen Raggett

L

ocated in one of the capital’s most sought-after postcodes of Pantai Indah Kapuk (PIK) – a hip and affluent neighbourhood in the north of the city –

Swissôtel Jakarta PIK Avenue, is a welcome addition to the city’s emerging gastronomy scene.

An ideal base from which to explore the capital, the 412key hotel opened last October and is the first outpost for the brand in Indonesia as it continues to expand its presence on the continent. While the property caters to passers-by with a 24-hour delicatessen serving freshly baked bread and artisanal coffee, its main attraction is The Chinese National, an immersive restaurant concept that pays homage to China’s diverse culinary scene.

Helmed by master chef Kong Fook Sin, the flagship restaurant is a unique offer with four individual venues working together to reflect Chinese culture in a modern and refined style. Brought to life by interior design studio EDG, the overall concept is based on the ‘Four Great Inventions of Ancient China’ – namely the compass, gunpowder, paper and printing – which have been credited with revolutionising world civilisation.

“The Four Great Inventions of China are possibly the greatest achievements in history,” says Michael Goodman, Partner at EDG. “Each invention has its own story, its own identity and we celebrate how these unique relationships identify with the cuisine, design and experience.”

He continues: “The starting point for the project was finding a solution to meet the needs of the hotel, such as an

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From steamed dim sum and braised pork noodles to wok-fried scallop with black truffle sauce, the menu represents a celebration of China’s many cuisines

all-day dining venue, and the desires of the owners -

is really special,” notes Goodman. “It’s rare that we

who really wanted a space to serve the best roast duck

get to do a project with so much metalwork and in this

in town. Everyone at EDG and Accor had an appetite

case it really makes the venue.”

to rethink all-day dining, and from there we came up

Using stained glass to reflect an urban landscape

with the idea of four speciality restaurants together.”

of stacked apartments, Iron Needle satisfies appetites

While the design of the areas share a similar language,

with hand-pulled noodle dishes and authentic Hong

each space takes on its own dialect. “Conceptually,

Kong-style dim sum, presented in buffetware from

it gave us an opportunity to explore different levels

brands such as WMF, Zieher and Revol. As well as

of cuisine from high-end dining to casual and in

compass-inspired details, the space features a number

between, which in turn makes sure that each venue is

of sophisticated touches including white marble

not competing with one other,” continues Goodman.

dining tables, wooden banquettes with leather seats

From Szechuan pepper and barbecued pork with green

and painted wood fixtures to create a communal venue

apple, to roasted duck coated with black pepper, the

where guests and chefs can connect and interact.

variety of dishes on offer allows guests to experience multiple levels of Chinese cooking.

044

At Black Powder Red, Szechuan cuisine comes into its own as chillies and garlic in liberal amounts combine

Entering through the iconic main corridor, the

to create an explosion of flavour. With an industrial

first of the four concepts is Letterpress, a modern

Art Deco vibe, the design is inspired by gunmetal and

incarnation of a traditional tea house serving signature

fire, manifested through copper details. Designed for

afternoon tea by day and cocktails by night. A space

intimate occasions, the open kitchen is brought to life

where sophistication and simplicity intertwine,

with the sound of sizzling woks, offering guests a fiery

chinoiserie panels, antique mirrors and a vintage metal

take on traditional Chinese cuisine.

rail inspired by printing blocks frame the speakeasy-

“I am certainly playing with the taste buds of my

styled lounge and bar. “The metal work in the space

guests,” says chef Kong Fook Sin. “Most people think

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that Chinese food is simple, the reality is that

impossible task.” Meanwhile, Paper Duck’s

there is more to explore in terms of flavour,

drink selection, served in glassware by the likes

ingredients and overall presentation. We are

of Schott Zwiesel and Stolzle, has been crafted

keeping things traditional, but my cooking will

to complement the offering. “Our cocktails have

appeal to today’s discerning diners.”

been designed with the same restaurant concept

At the heart of The Chinese National sits Paper

as for the food, the drinks guests will enjoy at

Duck, a modern barbecue venue specialising in

our Szechuan restaurant are fierce and bold,

the ritual of Peking duck. Poetically expressing

whilst those at Paper Duck are more subtle.”

the process of the dish and paper-making,

Making its mark on Jakarta’s emerging food

simple materials and brass finishes have

scene, The Chinese National seeks to challenge

been used to give the venue a timeless quality

and heighten the experience of Chinese cuisine

whilst allowing the carving stations to take

whilst also paying homage to its fundamental

centerstage. “Typically in a duck restaurant

origins. “Jakarta is on its way to join the

the waiters will bring a tray jack over to carve

international community of F&B. Locals travel a

the duck tableside. We wanted something more

lot now and as they travel they grow accustomed

elegant, so we had carving counters built in

with better palates,” says the chef.

around the venue,” explains Goodman.

“We have been preparing for the opening of

Commenting on the style of cooking, Kong

the restaurant for a while and the process has

Fook Sin adds: “I have established a team

been thorough as we really want to get it right,”

with classic cooking techniques; however, the

concludes Kong Fook Sin. “We want to make a

mindset is very much present-day. We fire our

name for ourselves and when people seek out

Peking duck on an oven set to 220-degrees,

Chinese restaurants, we want to be one of the

during the old days, this would have been an

best in the region.”

IN A BITE Operator: Accor Architecture: Prada Tata International Interior Design: EDG F&B Consultant: Jokomo Head Chef: Kong Fook Sin Executive Chef: Edi Pancamala F&B Director: Maximilien Provis Glassware: Inalto, Luigi Bormioli, Nachtmann, Schott Zwiesel, Stolzle Buffetware: WMF, Zieher, Revol, EcoBurner Front-of-House Catering Equipment: WMF www.swissotel.com

047

Esterre Palace Hotel TOKYO Fusing French cuisine with Japanese ingredients, Alain Ducasse’s new outpost offers a refined dining experience in a setting inspired by nature.

Words: Mandi Keighran Photography: © Takaaki Ito (unless otherwise stated)

G

astronomic tourists flock to Japan for the cuisine – a cornucopia of national and regional delicacies, from steaming bowls of ramen and simmering pots of

shabu-shabu to exquisite slices of sashimi. With the opening of Esterre, a new restaurant at the Palace Hotel Tokyo by renowned chef Alain Ducasse, it’s French cuisine – albeit reimagined with Japanese ingredients – that may soon top the must-visit list for foodies visiting the capital.

“Japan has a lot to offer in terms of superb ingredients from the earth and from the sea,” says Ducasse, who has accumulated a veritable constellation of 21 Michelin stars over the course of his career. “Applying French culinary techniques to great local produce makes an extraordinary mix.” Think octopus from Aomori served from a grill at the table with potatoes, capers and sage, or vegetables from Saitama and cooking jus with coffee from Paris. This crafted blend of Japanese and French influences is not only the inspiration behind the menu, but also the elegant interiors

by Japanese studio Simplicity.

Esterre – with Chef de Cuisine Martin Pitarque Palomar at the helm – replaces Palace Hotel Tokyo’s previous finedining restaurant Crown, which offered a more traditional French dining experience. “It was similar to what other hotels were doing and we wanted to offer something different,” says Mika Kim, the hotel’s Associate Director of Marketing & Communications. “By using Japanese ingredients, it becomes

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© Daisuke Shima

The menu at Esterre focuses on nature’s bounty and features fresh produce from across Japan

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more appealing to our international guests and creates

founder of Simplicity. “We hope a natural beauty can

a unique experience that can only be found here.”

be felt in the restaurant as the natural materials used

The setting too is standout, with the sixth-floor

throughout will change in texture and colour with the

restaurant offering spectacular views over the Imperial

passing of time. We wrapped the interior with washi –

Palace and its gardens. During the day, natural light

which, because it originates from trees, exudes a sense

floods through floor-to-ceiling windows and is softly

of elegance and calm during the dining experience.

amplified by the white Japanese washi paper-clad

The earthy colour scheme used as a base is intended to

walls. As day turns to night, the atmosphere of the

represent the continuous, circular flow of life.”

restaurant changes and the park views are replaced

The restaurant is entered through a long, narrow

by swathes of inky blackness punctuated by lights

corridor adorned with art by Japanese master plasterer

from the surrounding cityscape. The view, much like

Shuhei Hasado – an installation inherited from the

the menu, also undergoes dramatic seasonal changes,

previous restaurant – with floors crafted in the

hence a palpable connection to the natural world.

traditional naguri-style of wood carving. The chestnut

This focus on nature’s bounty and rhythms is first

wood entrance is marked by a bountiful display of

reflected in the restaurant’s name – Esterre translates

fruit and vegetables sculpted in timber by artist Reiji

to Mother Earth in the Occitan dialect spoken in the

Kosaka. “By making guests travel this narrow path in

south west of France, where Ducasse was born – while

order to enter the restaurant creates the psychological

the interiors feature natural materials such as Japanese

effect that the room into which they subsequently

washi paper and timber to create an elegant setting

enter is much more spacious,” says Ogata. This effect

that complements rather than competes with the food.

of the space opening up as guests enter is all the more

“We wanted to create an atmosphere in line with

powerful thanks to the striking views, a defining

Esterre’s concept; a place where the stories of land

feature of the dining room. Simplicity intentionally

and sea are encountered,” says Shinichiro Ogata,

kept the interiors minimal, with few visible fixtures

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and fittings, and adjustable lighting concealed

lead the way towards new dining habits. Less

within a gold leaf ceiling feature.

fat, less sugar, less salt, less meat, and more

The restaurant seats 60 across the main

vegetables, more cereal, more fruits – this is

dining room and three private dining rooms,

the path to the new, sustainable cuisine. This

each featuring works by iron artist Morison

vision also requires favouring the local produce

Kobayashi in which handcrafted branches

made available by producers who have a respect

seemingly sprout from the walls and framed

for nature. When I am in Japan, I remain a chef

leaves resemble delicate seasonal flora. Ligne

trained in the French techniques, yet I want to

Roset Saint James chairs – originally designed

use Japanese products.”

by architect Jean Nouvel for the Hôtel Saint

As such, produce is sourced from across

James in Bouliac, France – furnish the dining

Japan – vegetables from the nearby Saitama

rooms, punctuating the minimal space with

prefecture; seabass and scallops from Aomori

their idiosyncratic form and imbuing the

and Hokkaido; and shrimp and salmon from

restaurant with personality. The earth-coloured

Nagasaki and Yamaguchi.

leather upholstery was specially commissioned

Other products such as chickpeas, coffee and

for Esterre at the request of Ducasse. Moveable

chocolate are sourced from France, creating

curved timber screens separate some tables

and celebrating a connection between the

from the entrance, providing added privacy.

two countries. “Esterre is the expression of

Throughout, the design approach is elegant

Mother Nature at the best time to experience

and pared back – much like Ducasse’s signature

it,” concludes Pitarque Palomar. “The chef

less-is-more approach to French cooking.

obeys nature, manifesting his most profound

“Esterre is the result of a momentum,” says

consideration and finding in it an inexhaustible

the chef. “Contemporary haute-cuisine must

source of inspiration.”

IN A BITE Covers: 60 Operator: Palace Hotel Tokyo Interior Design: Simplicity F&B Consultant: Ducasse Paris Chef Partner: Alain Ducasse Chef de Cuisine: Martin Pitarque Polmar Pastry Chef: Thomas Moulin Head Sommelier: Takamasa Sato www.palacehoteltokyo.com

DESIGNED TO LAST A LIFETIME

For more information or samples contact us.

Email: hospitality@robertwelch.com Telephone: +44 (0) 1386 840880

robertwelch.com/hospitality

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Kimpton Vividora BARCELONA Nestled in the heart of Barcelona’s historic Gothic Quarter, Kimpton’s Spanish debut promises the very best Mediterranean flavours in a traditional mid-century settting.

Words: Ayesha Khan • Photography: Courtesy of IHG

L

azy Mediterranean afternoons in Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter are best spent getting lost in a labyrinth of winding streets while sipping on ice-cold horchata in

the soul-warming heat. On such a jaunt, one may happen upon the brand new Kimpton Vividora Hotel, delightfully tucked away amongst small family-run stores and private apartments. But what this property lacks in sprawl, it more than makes up for in culinary offerings.

Located on the ground floor, Cafè Got does double duty as a coffee shop by day – espressos coming courtesy of La Marzocco – and a bustling post-siesta watering hole by night – a robust schedule not unusual for Barcelona’s cafeterias that seamlessly transition from breakfast and coffee to tapas and wine. The décor in this double-height space is vibrant and eclectic with custom-designed tiles on the walls, ample greenery and colourful, mid-century-inspired furnishings. “We looked to create a space that was striking yet comfortable; a space that would grab the attention of passers-by as they strolled through the labyrinth that is the Gothic Quarter,” explains Henry Reeve, Interior Design Director for IHG, of which Kimpton is a subsidiary. “We used iconic local materials wherever we could, from striking terrazzos and bold coloured tiles, to locally sourced art pieces and soft furnishings.”

For the drinks offering, beverage director and acclaimed mixologist Adrià Batlle opted to focus on local wines and

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The menu at Fauna is inspired

by Lopez’s own family recipes and is notable for its variety of plant-based and vegan dishes

056

cocktails. Natural wines play a large role on

recalls Natali Canas del Pozo, Partner and

the menu; Els Vinyerons Saltamartí from the

Creative Director of local design firm El Equipo

region of Penedés in Catalunya is one of Batlle’s

Creativo. “We decided to convert this challenge

favorites. Served in glassware from the likes of

into an opportunity; going to Fauna should

Schott Zwiesel and Libbey, the bartdener also

be like going to a friend’s house for dinner,”

recommends Gallinas y Focas, a wine made

she adds. Upon entry, a pantry space typically

on the island of Mallorca with local grape

used for bread displays features traditional

Manto Negro. Cocktails feature surprising herb

handpainted blue-and-white Spanish tiles

infusions – the most notable among them, a gin

depicting scenes from across the city, while

sour blended with local sugar snap peas and anise

opposite, an antithetic wood-clad wall frames

and a more hearty whisky and amaro concoction

the kitchen. Plants, tiled floors and handpainted

with maple and fenugreek. A light bites menu

ceilings add to the residential aesthetic.

crafted by resident chef and nutritionist Ferran

Fauna is a true testament to López’s deep-

López features fun dishes like Patatas Ravaleras

rooted knowledge of and attention to good

– a twist on patatas bravas – and aubergine in

nutrition. The menu is notable for its variety

tempura and cane syrup.

of plant-based and vegan dishes. “Since I am

On the second floor, Fauna, the hotel’s

a nutritionist, I consider plants and veggies to

signature restaurant was designed after a

be the base for the health and wellbeing of our

traditional home in Barcelona. “In this particular

bodies,” he explains. “We cook them at low

hotel, the ground level in contact with the street

temperature so we keep the nutritional qualities

was especially small so the restaurant needed to

like vitamins, minerals, salts and water.” His

be located in the second level of the hotel, which

top pick for nutritional value is a sweet potato

is a very uncommon situation in Barcelona,”

dish that comes with coconut soup and curry

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caramelised peanuts served on dinnerware from

Stars with Glenlivet FR, Fassionola, a blend of

brands such as Playground and Revol. Of course

fruit and tropical spices in a flavoured coloured

meat also features heavily on the menu with

syrup, absinth, cocoa liqueur and citrus hints of

several dishes inspired by the chef’s own family

lime and grapefruit. These bright, fruity drinks

recipes. “My passion is cooking through home

are accompanied by barbecue bites such as pork

recipes that our grandmothers and mothers

ribs, sweetbreads and chorizo criollo garnished

taught us throughout their lives; these recipes

with charcoal grilled potatoes – all made on a

always excite me,” he explains. “One dish that

robata grill built into the bar counter.

brings me back to my childhood is my mother’s

As the Barcelona sunset bathes the space in

recipe for baby squid stuffed with black pudding

a coral glow, Equipo Creativo’s décor comes to

and fresh lemon foam. It is a simple surf-and-

life. “Our design strategy was to create a cool

turf dish, yet its complexity and mixture of

space inspired by the Barcelona terraces and

flavours and textures is fantastic.”

outdoor spaces, with an emphasis on its textures

If Barcelona and the Gothic quarter are

and light-and-shadow patterns,” del Pozo says

known for one thing aside from sun-drenched

of the space. “We worked with contrasting

meandering streets, it’s the mosaic of terracotta

surfaces, textures and colours. Ceramic tiles are

rooftops offset by the glistening Mediterranean

once again the protagonists, this time in the

in the distance. This is the precise view from

vertical surfaces. Referencing the street art so

Terraza de Vivi, the hotel’s rooftop bar.

popular in this area of the city, tiles are used to

Here, Batlle and López were able to unleash

create murals with abstract patterns. Textured

their creativity, launching a tiki theme serving

pergolas produce natural light and shadow

a variety of tropical drinks. Blood of Aikau, the

effects in the terrace, generating a relaxed

signature cocktail combines Plantation Rum 3

chiringuito atmosphere.”

IN A BITE Owner: Casacuberta Operator: IHG Interior Design: Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants, El Equipo Creativo Head Chef: Ferran López F&B Manager: Pep Miró Head Bartender: Adrià Batlle Dinnerware: Playground, Avet, Le Creuset, Revol Glassware: Schott Zwiesel, Libbey, Riedel Front-of-House Catering Equipment: La Marzocco www.kimptonvividorahotel.com

FOR WINE LOVERS

WWW.ZIEHER.COM

Burbank Roomers FRANKFURT A new restaurant by chef The Duc Ngo combines aromatic pan-Asian flavours with relaxed California vibes.

Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: Courtesy of Gekko Group

H

ome to one of the world’s largest stock exchanges

Having collaborated with Vietnamese-born Duc Ngo on a

as well as the headquarters of the European Central

string of successful restaurants including Golden Phoenix in

Bank, Frankfurt or ‘Mainhattan’ as it is sometimes

Berlin and Moriki in Frankfurt, Gekko Group challenged the

referred to, is a hive of high-powered financial activity.

chef to come up with a completely new offering for Roomers.

Every year, millions of business travellers descend on the

Inspired by the multi-cultural cuisine of the United States, his

business capital to attend conferences, exhibitions and

dishes are both aromatic and tasteful and are complemented

trade fairs thanks to its prime geographical position at the

by a beautifully upscaled restaurant environment.

crossroads of Europe.

060

Enlisting his good friend and business partner Hyunjung

And whilst the German hotel market may once have been

Kim to breathe new life into the existing interior, the space

regarded as a little stale, filled with the same cookie-cutter

has been refreshed with bright accent colours and intimate

brands, a new generation of independents have helped

seating niches. Light wooden tables and dark velvet seating

to expand the variety of hospitality experiences on offer.

mixes with deep green granite surfaces and a contrasting

Amongst them is Roomers, the trendy hangout from Gekko

dove blue and desert orange palette, conjuring up images of a

Group’s Micky Rosen and Alex Urseanu.

Californian vista punctuated by long highways and boundless

With outposts in Baden-Baden and Munich, Roomers is

beaches. “To show the theme, our designer used blue and

a pleasure-seekers paradise, describing itself as electric,

orange colours, right away you feel that you could be in

hedonistic, sensual and glamorous. In Frankfurt, the 116-

Los Angeles or Mexico,” says Duc Ngo. “She also decided

key property occupies a former office block, yet behind the

to incorporate grand silver mesh light fixtures from Moooi

gleaming façade is a seductive world of subdued lighting,

as well as coloured glass and mirrors – it really shows the

moody tones and industrial-inspired fixtures. The hotel first

intention of the restaurant.”

made its debut in 2016, but, in a bid to stay ahead of the

Regarded by many as a culinary innovator for his role in

competition, has recently revamped its dining offer with the

characterising Asian cuisine in Germany, Duc Ngo’s style of

opening of Burbank – an Asian-fusion, Californian-inspired

cooking has been heavily influenced by his upbringing. “I’m

concept headed up by Germany’s hottest chef, The Duc Ngo.

half Chinese; half Vietnamese; I came to Germany when I was

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Highlights of the menu include Coco Love – an uplifting and vibrantly coloured salad featuring citrus fruits, mizuna and a sweet and sour lemongrass dressing

was five and travelled through the whole of Europe;

dressing; Chilli Honey Prawns with mayonnaise,

and I learnt Japanese cuisine,” says the chef. “I’m a

almond and green chilli; and Peanut Satay Chicken, a

fusion human, so I’m open to every type of cuisine

stand-out notable for its punchy aftertaste thanks to

in the world.”

the accompaniment of sambal matah salsa.

Despite having no formal training, Duc Ngo set out

The most discerning of diners will be able to pick up

on his culinary journey working in a Berlin sushi bar at

upon a variety of global influences and taste fusions

the age of 20 before opening his own restaurant, Kuchi,

across the menu. Peruvian and Japanese cuisines mix

a mere four years later, focusing on a combination of

to create Sake Aburi, a combination of flamed salmon,

sushi, ramen and yakitori. By the time he opened Shiro

avocado, grapefruit, ponzu and olive oil; while Mexico

i Shiro in 2005, the chef had amassed a loyal following

is represented by the signature guacamole, served

with guests such as Sharon Stone, Mick Jagger and

exactly how the chef likes it, with shichimi and a bowl

David Lynch.

of tortilla crisps. The menu is delicious, diverse and

Whilst his ability to attract A-list diners continues,

made for sharing.

Duc Ngo pays little attention to his own growing status

With many of Duc Ngo’s relatives working across

and insists that his success is attributable to fine food

his restaurant portfolio, his brand is very much a

and great hospitality. “It is very important to create

family affair, with community and sociability driving

something where the restaurant is the star and not

its success. Channelling this approach at Burbank,

the people visiting it; all of my restaurants are based

the chef encourages people to come together with

on cuisine and cooking,” he adds. “Moriki is the place

family and friends and enjoy food and drink without

where everyone is begging to get a table, I really want

distraction. “It’s always about sharing, in Asia you

Burbank to be like that too.”

never get your own dish, plates go in the middle of

At Burbank, sashimi meets guacamole and raw

the table; it is the food of joy.”

food flavours seamlessly intertwine with pan-Asian

While the chef continues his travels – he plans to

culinary philosophies. “Old school Californian cuisine

visit Europe and parts of the southern hemisphere next

combines with what I used to do in my first restaurants,

year – it seems that the process of immersing himself

Japanese flavours and very precise cutting skills – I

in other cultures and developing his brand is much

always want food to be good looking,” says Duc

more than a job, it’s a way of life. “My family and

Ngo. Highlights of the menu include Coco Love – an

friends tell me to slow down but I cannot,” he quips.

uplifting and vibrantly coloured salad featuring citrus

“I love feeding people and I love when they get excited

fruits, mizuna and a sweet-and-sour lemongrass

about my food.”

IN A BITE Operator: Gekko Group Interior Design: Hyunjung Kim Executive Chef: The Duc Ngo F&B Manager: Branimir Hrkac www.roomers-frankfurt.com

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20/04/2020 15:24

SIGNATURE Crab, curry, lime Àclèaf – Boringdon Hall DEVON

“The crab is the star here but not as people know it,” says

the finest local ingredients. The Head Chef is particularly

Scott Paton of one of the signature dishes created for Àclèaf,

selective about the crab he cooks with for example, using

a new restaurant at Devon’s historic country hotel Boringdon

only the purest white meat of the claws for a more refined

Hall. “We use the best crab we can buy, sourced locally from

taste and appearance.

Brixham so it’s full of flavour, and combine it with light

“There’s a lot to like about this dish,” Paton notes.

madras spices, lime and a little yoghurt before finishing with

“Visually it’s beautiful, but what I love most is how it is

mango emulsion and herbs picked from the garden.”

received by guests. The natural sweetness of the crab shines

The inventive dish forms part of Paton’s four-course

through, highlighted by light curry aromas and a gentle

table d’hôte and six-course tasting menus, and showcases

acidity from the lime – just enough to pique the flavours

a passion for England’s South West through the use of only

and refresh the palette.”

© Matthew Hawkey

SIGNATURE

Crispy Kanzuri Shrimps Megu The Alpina GSTAAD

Since opening in the Swiss Alps in 2012, The

philosophy meaning many of the signature

Alpina Gstaad has set a high standard for

dishes will remain on the menu, including

cuisine in the region, its restaurants awarded

the Crispy Kanzuri Shrimps. Made using

both Michelin stars and high ratings from Gault

shrimps sourced from sustainable farms, the

Millau. Amongst them, Japanese restaurant

dish is described by Ogata as “a harmonious

Megu has won a legion of fans over the years,

unification of texture and taste” thanks to the

and recently entered a new chapter under the

crunchy tempura batter and delicate sweet and

watch of Head Chef Tetsujiro Ogata. Appointed

sour glaze. Presentation too is a feast for the

in January 2020, Ogata brings with him two

senses, with the shrimp served on crockery

decades of hospitality experience, including

from Japan, custom-made in a shade of red

successful stints at Rosewood Phnom Penh

that coordinates with the interior design

and The Ritz-Carlton Bahrain. At Megu, he’ll

scheme by Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance.

put his skills to good use creating new fusions

While the full recipe of the signature dish

with both local and Japanese ingredients in

remains top secret, Ogata, along with Head

fresh and surprising combinations.

Sushi Chef Tsutomu Kugota, can vouch for its

Regular diners need not worry however, Ogata will preserve the authentic Megu

simple yet powerful flavours, which continue to be a hit amongst guests.

www.pordamsa.com @pordamsadesignforchefs

Here to Stay Following a surge in the popularity of blink-andyou’ll-miss-them pop-up concepts, hotels have been welcoming a different kind of temporary resident.

Words: Lucy Lovell • Photography: Xavier Giammattei (unless otherwise stated)

DINING

B

ased on the quaint, snow-dusted

jungle of evergreens climbing the walls. It’s a

façade, it’s almost impossible to

multi-sensory Peruvian feast – and has been

guess the dining experience that

fully-booked since launch.

awaits at Ultima Gstaad. Set in a

The pop-up is a relatively new concept

postcard-perfect town in the Swiss

in luxury hotels, but limited edition dining

Alps, the hotel looks more like a

experiences have been taking place for decades.

gingerbread house than a five-star retreat. With

Some believe the movement emerged out of the

its ornate balconies and backdrop of spruce-

supper clubs of the 1960s, while others point

lined mountains, the chalet blends in perfectly

to pioneering chefs like Los Angeles-based

with its surroundings. Its restaurant, on the

Ludo Lefebvre as having kicked off a wave of

other hand, does not. In fact, it’s about as far

modern takes through the 2000s. It came about

from traditional Swiss cuisine as you can get.

when freelance chefs broke free of the confines

For one month only, Ultima Gstaad’s fine-

of traditional restaurant environments, and,

dining restaurant has been transformed into a

whether it was to save money or test out a

tropical paradise thanks to a collaboration with

new concept, cooks were taking to the streets

Peruvian restaurant Coya – a brand with outposts

and starting new empires. Empty warehouses,

in Dubai, London and Paris. The hotel’s polished

friend’s bars and even living rooms were turned

white plates have been swapped for emerald

into temporary culinary delights. Pop-ups were

green sharing platters, subtle background music

built on the foundations of an edgy, exciting

replaced by a DJ playing South American beats,

dining movement, and it is a reputation that

and neat bouquets of flowers swamped by a

continues to this day.

DINING

Luxury swiss boutique Ultima Gstaad welcomed Peruvian restaurant Coya to offer guests a cultureclash F&B experience

admits. “Because in Gstaad sometimes it’s very

“One or two Michelin stars, that’s amazing, but you go there only once. When you have pop-ups like this you can grab your guest with something new.”

traditional, very classic, and we injected a new

SIMON LE COSSEC

It prompts the question: just how well can this radical format fit into a luxury hotel setting?

The makeover involves hosting anything from an elite chef to an entire restaurant team, inviting them to take over the kitchen and floor operations. According to Simon Le Cossec, General Manager at Ultima Gstaad, it can be a great success – if you’re willing to take a risk.

“To be honest, at the beginning, we didn’t know whether we would have success with Coya,” he

energy.” He needn’t have worried; the weekend

Now, guests staying at competing hotels are making dinner reservations at Ultima Gstaad, and the hotel’s own guests are dining in-house for up to three nights in a row. “It creates a buzz,” Le Cossec smiles. “That’s very important for us. We are small but we want to show that we always keep moving forward.”

The key to running a successful pop-up is finding the right fit. It’s something hotels around the world are searching for, with some finding successful partnerships that recur year after year. Beachcomber Resorts & Hotels in Mauritius, for example, have been hosting

after launch Coya was already in high demand.

events with Michelin-starred chefs from France

Perhaps the success is down to Ultima

and Italy for over two years, while Japanese chef

Gstaad’s commitment to recreating the Coya

Nobuyuki Matsuhisa partakes in an anticipated

experience in impeccable detail. They flew in

annual residency at Zürich’s Baur au Lac.

the DJ from Monaco, shipped tableware from

Other hotels book events more impulsively,

London and rented crockery from Geneva. The

scouting out the rising stars of their local food

London-based restaurant chain brought in 25 of

scenes. In this case, the venue becomes a testing

its best team members from Mayfair and Dubai.

ground for gastronomical talent, where there’s

It might sound extravagant, but their knowledge

a huge benefit for the chefs as well as the hotel.

Take St. Martins Lane London for example. Its

helped put slightly bewildered diners at ease, encouraging them to explore Coya’s flavour-

source, no matter how hard the team tried.

latest project is a three-month pop-up by chef

packed menu. Crisp corn tortillas served with a

“Coya wanted us to create their dishes perfectly,

Gizzi Erskine, who is turning St. Martins Lane

spicy guacamole that waiters crush at the table;

so we cancelled those that we couldn’t find the

Kitchen into The Nitery – a playful take on 20th

sea bass ceviche dressed with crunchy choclo

right ingredients,” he adds.

century Parisian nightclubs, serving sumptuous

corn and a hefty squeeze of lime; and arroz

Despite some challenging logistics, it’s worth

nikkei, a homage to the Japanese-Peruvian

it overall, assures Le Cossec. Ultima Gstaad can

For Erskine, the chef residency provides a

fusion cuisine, made with Chilean sea bass.

now compete with established luxury hotels in

supportive space for restaurateurs to hone their

fusion food.

And if cooking the dishes to the exacting

the area which benefit from a higher footfall and

craft and concepts. This, in turn, paves the way

standards of Coya’s chefs wasn’t difficult

Michelin-starred credentials, but pop-ups are

for them to set up new ventures in the future.

enough, sourcing the ingredients was another

just one of the ways that it can offer something

She explains: “It’s no secret what an insanely

major challenge. The Chilean sea bass, for

unique. “I think when you go to the hotel you

difficult landscape it is out there for burgeoning

example, proved slippery getting hold of. “It

want more than fine dining,” Le Cossec says.

businesses of any kind. A pop-up can provide

was not easy,” Le Cossec concedes. “We don’t

“One or two Michelin stars, that’s amazing,

a safe incubator to explore an idea before you

have this fish, so we had to buy it in France and

but you go there only once. When you have

take the plunge of opening a permanent site.”

then declare to customs that we had something

pop-ups like this you can grab your guest with

new.” Some ingredients proved impossible to

something new.”

Moreover, pop-ups are a way to tap into trends without permanently changing a core

071

DINING

“A pop-up can provide a safe incubator to explore an idea before you take the plunge of opening a permanent site.”

GIZZI ERSKINE

The month-long Experimental Negroni Club at London’s Henrietta Hotel served modern twists on the classic cocktail

offering. London’s Henrietta Hotel recently

so much a pop-up, it’s an exchange,” he

noticed a surge in demand for negronis. Bosses

concludes. “You could call it pop-up or a

worked quickly to satiate London’s thirst and

takeover, but you have to be creative.”

launched the Experimental Negroni Club last

Cros’ struggle with the word is indicative

September. For one-month the property’s

of just how much the trend has changed.

mezzanine space was transformed via an

Its origins are in disused buildings, but

immersive light installation and a Campari-

these residencies have since evolved into

sponsored bar serving twists on the classic.

a collaboration between restaurant, venue

But for Pierre-Charles Cros, co-founder

and guest. Whether it’s waiting staff imbued

of Henrietta Hotel’s parent company

with an incredible knowledge of Peruvian

Experimental Group, it’s not enough to simply

ingredients or bartenders who can whip up the

replicate trends. Customers are incredibly

perfect negroni, there is a lasting impression

discerning, he warns. “We try to push a little...

in terms of knowledge, skills and reputation.

to bring something a bit different. Everyone

In this light, the pop-up looks less like a

knows what the negroni is and we wanted to

fleeting experiment and more like a cultural

present them with other things that they can

exchange. Far from being transitory, pop-ups

drink it with.”

and chef residencies could become a permanent

In Cros’ mind, the term pop-up can be

fixture on many more hotel calendars.

restrictive. For him it’s a time-consuming, artistic endeavour, and sometimes the word just doesn’t do the event justice. “It’s not

© Aron Klein

072

A rise in single-focus hotel bars specialising in whisky are giving the drink new life whilst engaging guests with refined yet accessible menus.

Words: Anna Sulan Masing

SIPPING

H

otel bars have always exuded

Paskin explains: “The industry is shaking

a certain glamour, but in

off its dusty image, and the rulebook that

the last five years they have

governed how whisky should be drunk

arguably developed into a

has also been thrown out – drinkers are

more accessible space for all,

increasingly encouraged to enjoy their

and a place to have a great

whisky however they please, and cocktails

drink at any time of day.

have become exceedingly popular, driven

Ace Hotels were early adopters, creating

by the seductive Old Fashioned and zesty

hospitality environments that appealed

Whisky Sour.” Whisky makers are also

to food- and drink-focused locals. The

becoming much more innovative, she adds.

group’s Portland property, opened in 2006,

“This has resulted in an endless spectrum of

exemplifies this by way of partnerships with

flavours to explore; there’s an option to suit

award-winning venues Clyde Common and

every palate.”

Pepe Le Moko – next door and downstairs respectively.

An excellent example of innovation in flavour is Westward Whiskey in Oregon,

In the last year, however, we’ve seen hotel

USA, a brand that has been pioneering the

bars stepping things up again, specialising

American single malt category, and whose

their approach and taking deep dives into the

signature drink is highly reflective of

world of whisky. With the drink undergoing

environment and locale.

something of a renaissance at the moment,

Miles Munroe, Head Distiller and Blender,

hospitality F&B spaces can offer an intimate

explains: “The Pacific Northwest not only

setting where guest and server can delve

yields incredible raw materials, but it also

into this drink with creativity and detail.

has dynamic craftspeople. One of our more

This revitalisation is down to innovation,

unique collaborations is with Ken Forkish,

changing palates and new stories.

an award-winning Portland baker, with

Becky Paskin is a whisky expert and

whom we make a sourdough whiskey.”

the co-founder of OurWhisky, an online

He continues: “Our heritage is deeply

platform launched in 2018 to challenge

steeped in the brewing culture, and we are

outdated stereotypes around the beverage.

within the same valley as many world class

This year it grew into an educational space,

pinot noir producers,” – a proximity that

guiding new drinkers – a younger, curious

has led to Oregon stout casks and pinot noir

and more gender-balanced crowed – into

cask finishes. Munroe says this not only

their favourite dram.

creates a distinct flavour, but also offers

000

SIPPING

The signature drink from Oregon’s Westward Whiskey is reflective of environment and locale

the bars, Sibín, is a dedicated whisky space that

“Hotel bars have moved out of their comfort zones; they are now more challenging in terms of creativity. ”

reflects this shift in perception.

ENRICO GONZATO

different stories to be told with the serving, and a collaborative working method that ultimately broadens who whisky is for.

London in particular has seen a surge in whisky focused establishments, with new hotels excelling in this. Great Scotland Yard in Mayfair opened in December 2019, where one of

identity. “Whisky has many different styles; we focused on cask finishes and have a strong American selection. Every bottle is carefully considered in terms of why it belongs here,” Gonzato muses.

Like Sibín, Pine Bar at The Biltmore Mayfair, also opened at the end of 2019, features a robust whisky list, and is in the process of developing

“Until recently we were told more about

a specific, dedicated programme, kicking off

what not to add to your whisky, and how not

with a whisky trolley in the next few months.

to drink it, rather than how to enjoy it,” says

The aim is to create a more interactive way

Michal Maziarz, Bars Manager at the hotel.

into the category, allowing guests to feel more

“Whisky was reserved for upper-class men

comfortable with experimenting.

smoking cigars. But 80% of whisky worldwide

Coming from a slightly different angle is Black

has always been drunk with a mixer, and luckily

Rock, a specialist bar and tavern which launched a hotel in January – The Black Rock Lodge.

the industry has recognised this.”

Maziarz believes that it might not be that

At Sibín, the menu seeks to push boundaries

Inspired by Tokyo’s capsule hotels, the rooms

drinkers are changing, but rather it is the

and play with flavours. The bar’s Old Fashioned

are a combination of luxury and minimalism, in

expertise of the bar world helping guests better

– a cocktail optimised for the showing off of

the heart of the city and above their own bars.

understand the spirit. “We do hear ‘I don’t like

whisky – is the most popular, based on an

This move is based on its fundamental ethos

whisky’ often, but have a high success rate in

Australian single malt, Starward. Other, fruitier

of hospitality. “We wanted to create a great

converting those people,” he says. “It is the

favourites include Pink Label – with Johnnie

space, that happens to have a lot of whisky,”

expertise and confidence of professionals, and

Walker Black Label, raspberries and a smoky

Operations Manager Matthew Hastings says.

an increasing number of single-focus bars, that

ginger ale – and Blue Dog, made with Milk

“Black Rock offers a variety of experiences and

encourages people to try what that particular

& Honey (a single malt from Tel Aviv’s first

activities such as tasting sessions, blending

bar does best.”

distillery) shaken with blue curacao, vermouth

classes, an award-winning basement bar, and

bianco and lemon.

a more relaxed tavern. It felt natural to build a

Combined with the range of whiskies now

space for guests to stay.”

available, this has seen bartenders becoming

Across London meanwhile, The Stratford

increasingly specific as to what they use in

opened at the end of 2019, where bar manager

The brand’s basement bar displays whisky

cocktails. “We are using much more niche

Enrico Gonzato explains that the shift in attitude

by flavour profile – Smoke, Fruit, Balance,

whiskies – from robust to light, as well as more

has created strong foundations for developing

Fragrance, Spice and Sweet. Echoing Paskin,

subtle and fragrant ones that are almost like a

specialist programmes. “Hotel bars have moved

Hastings says this allows drinkers to find

light rum,” Maziarz explains. “There is a place

out of their comfort zones; they are now more

the right whisky for their palate, shifting the

for all of them in shakers and mixing glasses

challenging in terms of creativity,” he offers.

beverage into a space of experimentation and

around the world.”

076

found that a focus on whisky gave them a clear

The Mezzanine – the hotel’s flagship bar –

fun. The whisky bottles are contained in glass-

© Carly Diaz

SIPPING

The Bulleit-based No Shake Sour at London’s Black Rock Tavern, a specialist whisky bar with rooms

fronted display cabinets, demonstrating the

UK properties, and will soon be rolled-out to its

broad range of identity and character. Simple,

hotels globally.

classic designs sit alongside fun, colourful

The Glasshouse’s General Manager Tom

illustrative labels, and origins vary. Having the

Gibson describes the drink as “evocative of

bottles in cabinets for guests to easily access

a summer Scottish breakfast with buttered

is a clear move away from any elitist illusions.

oatcakes and heather honey. Guests can look

And it isn’t just London where this focus is

forward to flavours including dark cherry, white

claiming ground; Rosewood Yangon opened

peach, and kiwi fruit compote and hazelnut

in Myanmar in February and features the

spread on well-toasted drop scones.”

Courtroom bar, where the whisky selection

Looking ahead, Paskin believes there is more

takes centrestage. The newly opened Monkey

innovation on the horizon, from exploration of

Island Estate in Bray, meanwhile, has a Whisky

different grains and yeast types to cask finishes.

Snug accessible by secret staircase, and will be

It would seem that whisky is the drink to get

launching further experiences across the year.

behind, to have fun with, and to take in new,

The Glasshouse in Edinburgh recently

creative directions. Together, these elements

announced an Elite Whisky Experience

offer hospitality venues a new way to engage

that includes a tasting dinner, a personal

with their guests, creating memorable moments

guided distillery tour and a two-night stay

and interactions whilst challenging the status

in the beautiful Islay Suite. And YTL Hotels

quo. Hotel whisky bars could soon become the

has launched its own brand of whisky in

place to be, on any occasion.

collaboration with Adelphi, an acclaimed Scottish bottler of rare single cask and limitededition single malts. Bottles are available across

078

COCKTAIL

Pumpkin Thyme Tanaman Desa Potato Head BALI

Following months of taste testing, Potato Head’s in-house Research & Development team has unveiled a new cocktail menu for Tanaman, the recently opened restaurant at Bali’s first creative village.

“We wanted to create a range of sophisticated cocktails to pair with our plant-based Indonesian cuisine,” explains Head Mixologist Hary Wahyudi, adding that produce is sourced directly from small, spray-free farms across the island. “The drinks menu showcases Indonesia’s rich umbrella of health tonics, juices and fermentations created from native flora and fauna.”

One of the signatures is Pumpkin Thyme, a smooth, spicy and zesty drink made from roast pumpkin puree, orange arak, thyme, palm nectar and island-spiced rum. “The idea with this cocktail was to experiment with an ingredient that isn’t widely used to create intrigue,” says Wahyudi. “It has a multi-layered flavour and texture that gives it a different sensation, with an almost unexpected taste result.”

Served in an elegant martini glass and finished with a sprig of thyme to add aroma and interest, the cocktail elevates the experience of vegetable-based drinks while reflecting the restaurant’s wider culinary concept. “The visual impact of the strong orange colour of the cocktail itself was created to work well with the earthiness of the dishes in Tanaman and also contrasts with the blue tabletops in the restaurant,” notes Wahyudi. “Guests love the surprising and intriguing flavour of the pumpkin, it is savoury but still with a hint of sweetness.”

JOHN JENKINS ESTABLISHED 1901

BY APPOINTMENT TO HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES SUPPLIER OF CRYSTAL GLASS JOHN JENKINS & SONS LTD T/A WILLIAM YEOWARD CRYSTAL HAMPSHIRE ENGLAND

a perfect cocktail…the perfect glass NYEWOOD, ROGATE, PETERSFIELD, HAMPSHIRE GU31 5HZ Tel: 01730 821811 Email: office@johnjenkins.co.uk NEW YORK SHOWROOM, 41 MADISON AVENUE, 13TH FLOOR, NEW YORK, NY 10010 Tel: 1-800-818-8484

www.johnjenkins.co.uk

COCKTAIL

The Lighthouse The Alchemy Bar The Academy LONDON

When Alexandra Champalimaud embarked on the refurbishment of YTL Hotels’ The Academy in 2018, she looked to the Bloomsbury Set for inspiration, subtly weaving the lives and loves of the writers, philosophers and artists into her design scheme.

This theme has now extended to the beverage programme with the launch of a new cocktail menu at the hotel’s Alchemy Bar, with an imaginative selection of new mixes designed to celebrate the district’s literary greats. “The Literary Cocktail collection offers a balanced menu of eye-catching cocktails, with something to suit everyone whatever their tastes, both in terms of literal taste and visual impact,” says Suman Poudel, The Academy’s Assistant Food & Beverage Manager.

One of the most popular is The Lighthouse, named after Virginia Woolf’s 1927 novel and inspired by a childhood spent in St. Ives. Combining Tanqueray gin – first distilled in Bloomsbury in 1830 – with sugar syrup and fresh lemon juice, the ingredients are shaken for a refreshing citrus blend, poured into a bespoke glass made by Artis, then topped with soda and a lemon peel garnish.

“Our guests are well-read, sophisticated travellers and appreciate the nod to the literary heritage,” adds Poudel. “It was a welcome challenge to create a lighthouse in a glass.”

© Paolo Ferla

AF_AnuncioSupper_Texture_236x275.pdf

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DRINKS

Millésime 1992 Cognac Frapin

Grönt Te Mackmyra Swedish Whisky

An expression of age-old know-how, Millésime 1992 is the last vintage to join Frapin’s collection of rare cognacs.

During its year of harvest, vineyards in the heart of the Grande Champagne, on the hillsides of the Chateau Fontpinot, produced an abundance of grapes with high levels of acidity and low levels of alcohol. These conditions are essential in ensuring the concentration of aromas before heating time. Distilled over lees and aged in sealed barrels in the cellar of Frapin’s family estate, the vintage XO gave its angels’ share over 26 years, resulting in a complex and elegant product. On the palate, the cognac is rich and aromatic, developing subtle floral variations, before revealing a fruity undertone with notes of orange.

Launched 20 years ago, Mackmyra blends its Swedish heritage with a vision to strive for new and exciting taste combinations. Its newest release Grönt Te is a single malt whisky finished for 19 months in casks saturated with a blend of elegant Japanese green tea leaves. The resulting spirit is subtly spicy, boasting a fruity and floral finish with hints of fine vanilla, herbal tea and green apple.

“Producing Japanese tea is in many ways similar to the production of whisky, as they both share the same values in quality, taste and aromatic experience,” comments Yuko Ono, tea advisor for the blend. “Grönt Te raises the characters and flavours of the leaves giving the whisky a unique aroma and taste inspired by Sweden and Japan.”

www.cognac-frapin.com

084

www.mackmyra.com

Gin Cap Gin

Atlantic Dry Mead Kinsale Mead Co.

Cap Gin was born from a conversation between three friends living in the South of France, all of whom shared a vision to introduce a gin that would encapsulate the region’s essence. Distilled on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea, the spirit is produced following the traditional London Dry method; however, its individuality lies in its tasting notes taken from the location. Enlisted to help create and refine the recipe, distillation expert David Clutton explains: “Cap Gin is built on a solid foundation of premium quality juniper berries. With citrus elements derived from lemon and sweet orange peel, the combination of aromatic fleur d’oranger buds and mimosa flowers delivers a complex, elegant and perfectly balanced gin.”

Based in West Cork, Ireland, Kinsale Mead Co. was established to share the ancient art of mead making with the world. Each batch uses natural ingredients, and variants of the beverage include Wild Red, Hazy Summer and Atlantic Dry. The latter is a delicious, off-dry, traditional style of the drink made from raw orange blossom honey that was carefully sourced from Southern Spain. This is mixed with local water and yeast before being fermented in the meadery. The drink delivers vibrant citrus and floral aromas, as well as long, lingering hints of honey with almost no sweetness. Best served lightly chilled or over ice as a pre-dinner refreshment, the mead pairs perfectly with salty appetisers such as olives, almonds or seafood.

www.capgin.com

www.kinsalemeadco.ie

085

Maximising the Opportunity in the US Hotel Market Over the past two issues, Supper has presented the findings of a Nielsen CGA research report examining the dining and imbibing behaviour of the hotel guest. In this final instalment, we look at the value of grab-and-go initiatives and room service.

In recent years, the traditional hotel model has evolved, with restaurants and bars increasingly contributing to the bottom line, and in some cases, generating more revenue than rooms.

Knowing the guest – their demographic profile, needs and preferences – is cruicial to maximise this opportunity.

As such, Nielsen CGA has conducted an online survey with a nationally representative sample of 5,000 consumers, gleaning insight into the sector. Revealing why, what, when and where hotel guests choose to drink, the report touches on several key areas including profiling the hotel consumer, the services being utilised, consumption behaviour and experience. Armed with this understanding, the report enables retailers, distributors, suppliers and hoteliers to make strategic, data-driven decisions as they expand into new areas of the hospitality industry.

GRAB-AND-GO INITIATIVES IN THE LOBBY With only 27% of consumers surveyed making use of grab-and-go, and 1-in-5 unaware of the services available, there’s room to grow profitability through driving higher awareness.

HAVE USED GRAB-AND-GO SERVICES IN A HOTEL 21-34-year-olds are the most likely to have used grab-and-go services in a hotel, +6pp versus the average US hotel visitor

WHAT DID YOU PURCHASE FROM A GRAB-AND-GO? Food and snacks are the most popular purchase at grab-and-go, followed by soft drinks. A variety of alcoholic beverages are also purchased, providing another way for suppliers to reach consumers.

Food / snacks

Soft drinks

Vodka

Imported beer

Wine

78%

35%

8%

7%

7%

WHAT INFLUENCED YOUR DECISION TO PURCHASE FROM A GRAB-AND-GO? Grab-and-go’s popularity comes from its convenience. However, hotels need to ensure the service is clearly visible and appealing to increase the potential to compete with convenience stores.

086

Convenient / passing by

No waiting time

No grocery store nearby

Caught my attention

Price

64%

32%

28%

26%

23%

MARKET INSIGHT

UNDERSTANDING THE VALUE OF ROOM SERVICE In the last year, 29% of hotel visitors surveyed ordered room service, with the facility proving more popular in premium hotels categories.

HAVE ORDERED ROOM SERVICE IN THE LAST YEAR

WHAT INFLUENCED YOUR DECISION TO ORDER ROOM SERVICE? Convenience is a key reason to order room service, when consumers are tired or multi-tasking.

WHAT DID YOU PURCHASE FROM ROOM SERVICE? Getting the food offering right is key for room service. And while beer is the most popular alcoholic beverage ordered, tequila is the most popular spirit choice.

Food

Soft drinks

Beer

Wine

Tequila

68%

21%

21%

16%

10%

WHO IS THE ROOM SERVICE CONSUMER? Users of room service are particularly high spenders on food and drink on average, so getting the proposition right can encourage repeat purchasing and increase revenue.

Spend more at a hotel bar than usual

21% +7pp versus the average US hotel visitor

Very likely to trade up drink in a hotel

Average spend on food and drink per month

34%

US$161.26%

+5pp versus the average US hotel visitor

+US$22.46 versus the average US hotel visitor

55%

I use room service when I’m tired

23%

I want to work in my room while eating / drinking

18%

I do not want to visit a restaurant / bar alone

18%

I want to watch TV / make a call while eating / drinking

11%

I do not like the ambiance of a hotel restaurant / bar

These pages feature extracts from Nielsen CGA’s report, Maximising the Opportunity in the US Hotel Market, published in April 2019. To learn more, email hello@nielsencga.com and quote SUPPERHOTEL2019 for an exclusive discount. www.cga.co.uk

087

PETITS FOURS

Hepburn Nude

Crafted using lead-free crystal, the Hepburn series by glassmakers Nude and masterminded by Brad Ascalon, merges clean lines with brass-like accents to create a classic yet modern combination that exudes glamour. Guided by the principle of less is more, Ascalon’s design involves gently weighting the bottoms of the glasses to add stability and a sense of authority. The collection includes a cocktail shaker, mixing jug, and variety of martini and mixer glasses.

www.nudeglass.com

Gin LSA International LSA International’s Gin collection has been designed to enhance the expression of gin’s delicate botanicals and is ideal for serving a classic gin and tonic or an elevated cocktail recipe. Subtly flared stems, tapering forms and thick bases add distinctive detail to this assortment of contemporary handmade glasses, which features a variety of options including cocktail and balloon glasses, tumblers and highballs. The set is accompanied by serving apparel including a cocktail jug, stirrer and an ice bucket.

www.lsa-international.com

090

PETITS FOURS

3.

1.

2.

1. Line Table Craster

2. Pure Style Tafelstern

3. Diva WMF Professional

As part of the Parisian Hotel Lutetia’s four-year multi-million renovation, Craster was enlisted to create an innovative and impactful conferencing solution to celebrate the material history of the venue. The Line Table, which is available in beguiling black marble and steel, both contrasts and enhances the organic honey-coloured, whiplash forms of the Lutetia’s Art Nouveau origins – exemplified by the building’s high spaces and preoccupation with nature.

Designed to enhance the elegance of the surrounding architecture, Craster’s latest invention is intelligent, luxurious and sustainable. www.craster.com

Premium porcelain manufacturer Tafelstern takes a novel approach toward exploring new crockery concepts and trends and its Pure Style collection is no exception. Adding a touch of flair to contemporary dining environments, the range’s earthy brown-beige tones add a natural look and feel whilst also being versatile enough to complement a variety of delicacies. The matte, silk sheen of the metallic relief with brush lining creates a meditative quality and has been carefully thought through to ensure that kitchens can experiment and conjure up unique and vividly colourful food arrangements. www.tafelstern.com

The classic, yet modern design of WMF Professional’s Diva beverage cooler provides both comfort and style to suit a variety of hospitality settings, from large conferences to intimate dining rooms.

Unlike the standard, functional service of beverages, the soft lines of this stainless steel cooler are eye-catching and offer a sophisticated proposition. The cooler can be adapted to different customer requirements using the double-walled sleeve as a standalone item or with the cooling element in a modern crushed-ice look. Meanwhile, the cooling element retains its temperature and effectively cools drinks for up to three hours. www.wmf-professional.com

091

Linea Umana Rona Representing 125 years of glass masters’ skill, Rona has collaborated with award-winning Italian sommelier Maurizio Dante Fillip to deliver a collection that seamlessly balances sophisticated and utility. Comprising four wine and two water glasses, the Linea Umana range combines soft human lines with brilliance and quality, ensuring wines can be enjoyed at their very best. Crafted using pulledstem technology, the ultra-light pieces are notable for their slightly flared edge and smooth inner surface, which encourages the release of aromas.

www.rona.glass

092

PETITS FOURS

1.

3.

2.

1. Artisan Serving Spoon Tiger

2. Punto Copper Bonna

3. Revolution Steelite International

Korean manufacturer Tiger continues to expand its portfolio of buffetware options with a number of flatware solutions.

The Artisan Serving Spoon is made from silicone and measures 27cm in length, making it an ideal specification for pans with a delicate surface. The serving tool is part of a six-piece set and is both dishwasher safe and easy to handle.

Tiger’s buffet range also encompasses modular systems, carving stations, chafing dishes, heating lamps, trolleys and presentation stands. www.tiger.co.kr

Turkish tableware manufacturer Bonna, which supplies more than 20 countries worldwide, is committed to creating beautiful culinary settings with its innovative crockery solutions. Inspired by nature, the Punto Copper collection is crafted using a blend of raw materials and is produced using the latest technology, Boasting a copper finish, which gives it an elegant and rustic appearance, the range comprises a wide range of products and includes various sizes of plates and bowls as well as coffee apparel. www.bonna.com.tr

The Revolution range from Steelite represents a celebration of the beauty of artisanal glazing. Using specially formulated reactive glazes that change in colour and intensity and applied by hand using a revolving motion, every piece is as unique as the artisan who created it. Boasting a striking jade colour, the range can be used to showcase a plethora of cuisines, whilst the lifetime edge-chip guarantee warranty, ensures it will withstand the demands of busy and bustling kitchen environments. www.steelite.com

093

PETITS FOURS

Commercial Juicer Sunkist The Sunkist Sectionizer and Sectionizer Jr. can be used for wedging, slicing, coring or halving fruits and vegetables into uniform pieces, thanks to its six-wedge sectioniser.

Launched alongside is the Sunkist Commercial Juicer, recognised by the industry as one of the most reliable commercial juicers on the market. Featuring a unique metal strainer and three extracting bulbs, allowing operators to produce between 20-25 gallons of juice per hour using precut citrus. Meanwhile, the new Pro Series Juicer is capable of extracting ten gallons of juice per hour.

www.sunkistequipment.com

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OPEN FOR ENTRIES D E A D L I N E - 2 9 M AY Have you recently renovated a hotel bar or launched a brand new hotel restaurant within Europe?

If the project opened between June 2019 - May 2020 then you are eligible to enter the AHEAD Europe awards.

Visit aheadawards.com to get started

GLOBAL FOUNDER SPONSOR

ORGANISED BY

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POWERED BY

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ONLINE AT WWW.SUPPERMAG.COM

ADVERTISING INDEX ISSUE 20 AHEAD

096

Rona

Bonna

015

Siom

088

Cognac Frapin

079

Steelite

002

Craster

011

Stolzle

029

Gemini

073

Sunkist

035

099

HEPP

031

Tafelstern

100

John Jenkins

081

Tiger

033

LSA

008

To The Table

064

Nude

041

Vista Alegre

083

Pernod Ricard (Absolut Elyx)

006-007

William Edwards

005

Pordamsa

067

WNK

095

Revol

012

Zieher

059

Robert Welch

053

097

WASHING-UP

Gift Shop Goals

Elevating the humble souvenir to new heights, Mandarin Oriental Milan’s Dine & Design by Fornasetti is the holiday memento you won’t find in the gift shop.

098

Whether we commit to the pastime of collecting

in 1979 in tribute to the city, and has now been

souvenirs from our travels with gusto or guilt,

re-edited to celebrate the partnership.

the question remains the same: is it treasure or

The unique experience also includes a private

tat? For some, a fridge magnet haggled over in

tour of the brand’s flagship store in Milan, where

the souks of Marrakech is a tale to tell; for others,

a selection of furnishings and accessories feature

it’s just another piece of junk that will no doubt

alongside vintage works presented in a special

end up in a box in the attic.

‘cabinet of wonders’, as well as a three-course

For those who really treasure their keepsakes,

dinner at the hotel’s two Michelin-starred Seta

Mandarin Oriental Milan has joined forces with

restaurant, headed up by Executive Chef Antonio

Italian design house Fornasetti to create the

Guida. Parties of six or more can dine in the

ultimate holiday memento. Dine & Design by

newly unveiled Duomo private dining space,

Fornasetti offers guests the opportunity to stay

which, of course, is decorated with Fornasetti’s

in a suite adorned with the atelier’s whimsical

porcelain creations.

works, and ultimately take home a handmade

Alternatively, guests can take to the comfort of

porcelain plate featuring a historical depiction

their bespokely decorated suite and contemplate

of Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II shopping

just how they might transport their newly

arcade. Part of the Cupole d’Italia series, the

acquired Italian wares through aiport security

original design was created by Piero Fornasetti

and customs.

IIIIIIIIIIIII C R E A T E ! IIIIIIIIIIIII

www.tafelstern.com

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