Torel Palace

PORTO

Drawing inspiration from Portuguese literature, the story of Torel Boutiques’ fifth property is brought to life through sensitive design and a one-of-a-kind culinary experience.

Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: © Carlos Vieira

Characterised by cobbled streets and narrow passageways meandering past pastel-coloured houses, gothic churches and bustling cafés down towards the banks of the Douro, Portugal’s second city is both a beacon for old-world charm and a portal through which to experience forward-thinking gastronomy.

This sentiment certainly rings true at Palacete Campos Navarro, a 19th century mansion, which has been sensitively transformed by Torel Boutiques – a collection of guest houses and hotels based in Portugal. Representing the group’s third property in the city, Torel Palace Porto is inspired by literature, with each of its 24 rooms and suites named after a Portuguese writer or poet – among them Eça de Queiroz, Florbela Espanca and Fernando Pessoa. However, it is within the property’s signature restaurant – a blindfolded culinary journey conceived by Michelin-star chef Vitor Matos – that is appealing to gastronomes.

The newly envisaged property pays homage to the elegance of the original structure – a striking example of the romantic architecture period in Porto – and has been reimagined with a number of modern touches. The restoration work, overseen by NN Arquitectura, preserves the architectural and decorative elements whilst giving the building a new lease of life, and interior design, which was handed to Isabel Sá Nogueira, who has previously worked on some of the group’s other properties including Torel Palace Lisbon and the common areas of Torel Avantgarde in Porto, infuses the mansion with a contemporary edge.

“One of the key questions was how to reconcile the building’s characteristics and its classic style with the comfort and convenience of contemporary décor,” says Ingrid Koeck, one of the Founding Directors of Torel Boutiques. “The common spaces were designed to respect the history and antiquity of the palace, creating a modern space. In this sense, the architectural structure was maintained and the intervention being more at the level of furniture, colours and lighting, with the intention of enhancing the beauty and restoring its splendour, as can be seen in the lobby, the staircase or the skylight, which is undoubtedly the hotel’s ex-libris,” adds Koeck.

On the ground floor and situated at the back of the property, the outdoor terrace, featuring an emerald-green swimming pool and vertical plant wall, continues the project’s overarching design concept, whilst ensuring the space seamlessly transitions from day to night. Blending minimalist furniture and black and white fabrics with romantic pink features and vintage-style chandeliers interwoven into a canopy of plants and flowers suspended from a timber pergola, the space serves as a prelude to the inventive dining experience awaiting guests on the other

The blindfolded tasting concept makes for an unforgettable culinary adventure, testing guests’ senses with theatrical moments

side of the terrace doors. Inside, at the Blind bar and restaurant, subtle lighting fixtures and dark materials add a layer of sophistication, setting the tone for the culinary experience ahead.

The restaurant’s name refers to one of writer José Saramago’s most famous novels – Blindness – which is honoured and built upon through a journey of the five senses. “Blindness was adapted for the cinema and we took the story as an inspiration to create the narrative of the restaurant: everything is kept in the dark, reminiscent of the Blindness, but also to trigger some food for thought about where we have blind spots today,” explains Koeck. A focal point of the restaurant space is its elegant bar in an onyx back and gold, which is offset by a black and white checkerboard floor. The venue also houses a wine cellar and a separate room for private dining, as well as the aforementioned outdoor terrace for al fresco occasions.

Within the restaurant, the blindfolded tasting concept devised by Vitor Matos and his team, makes for an unforgettable culinary adventure, testing guests’ senses with theatrical moments. “The origin and essence of Blind is creating a concept of a dark dinner. Guests do not know what they are going to eat and they place their trust in our hands in order to have the Blind experience,” explains Matos. The culinary proposition is deeply rooted in the chef’s memories and Portuguese ingredients with a strong international connection. Taking place in the dark, the tasting menu encompasses 50 dishes that are rotated seasonally. “The concept implies a deep respect for the products and their respective origins; for biodiversity, seasonality, regionalism, respect for the environment and the cycle of life,” says Matos. “I promote a cuisine of Mediterranean influence, with international notes from my experience, using the best products fresh from the producer, which allows us to transform them without changing them, thus maintaining and enhancing the taste.”

On the Blind tasting menu, dishes such as ‘My Childhood’, ‘Blindfolded’ and ‘Bonjour Paris!’ add to the sensory experience, while on

the Gastrobar menu, diners can choose from a selection of comforting snacks and sharing options such as crab meat pâté, alongside mains of slow-cooked Portuguese-style codfish and wild seabass with samphire greens, curry foam and mango chutney served on tableware by brands such as Vista Alegre and Pordamsa. Vegetarian options include beetroot and lemon thyme risotto and laganelle pasta, while desserts range from orange crêpe with Grand Marnier Liqueur to caramelised banana. “The essence of my cuisine is based on the balance between the product and technique, between colours and aromas, in the search for a gastronomic experience that lasts in memory, where each dish has a unique and genuine taste, full of passion and emotion,” says Matos.

At the bar, guests can sample one of Blind’s signature cocktails served in glassware from the likes of Chef & Sommelier and named after the five senses. As well as creative libations, diners can sample from the bar’s carefully curated list of specialist cigars and cigarillos before heading out on the terrace to soak up last of the summer sun. “I like everything about this project. It was intense work of almost a year before the opening trying to be innovative but also faithful to the concept and my cuisine, as well as the creation of a relaxed and informal place where everyone can enjoy a unique place in Porto,” notes Matos. “It is undoubtedly a space that has quality ingredients and taste in full harmony with the music and atmosphere – a perfect symbiosis of a venue that breathes and lives.”

A distinctive concept making itself known in the city’s growing gastronomic space, once international travel resumes, the restaurant will revive its full Blind tasting menu with gusto, whilst the chef and his team continue to develop and tweak the overall dining concept. With plenty of room to grow and refine this unique gastronomic experience, it is likely that many future travellers and discerning diners will deem Torel Palace a worthy port of call. IN A BITE Owner: Torel Boutiques, Marec Group Operator: Torel Boutiques Architecture: NN Arquitectura Interior Design: Isabel Sá Nogueira Head Chef: Vitor Matos Sous Chef: Rita Magro Head Bartender: Diogo Pinto Head Sommelier: André Condeço F&B Manager: Débora Lemos Serveware: Vista Alegre, Pordamsa Glassware: Chef & Sommelier www.torelboutiques.com