Supper - Issue 2

ISSUE 2 ISSUE 2 WWW.SUPPERMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Tony Conigliaro

The award-winning bartender on service, storytelling and simplicity

AvroKO

A design and concept firm with a difference, we speak to the four founders

Loh Lik Peng

From Singapore to Sydney, making the list with the founder of Unlisted Collection

CONTENTS

Setting Entrée

SPECIALS 023

Raising the Bar

SPREAD

Starters Pulitzer’s Bar

Into the Unexpected 055

based centrefold. We chart a multi-sensory

The Pulitzer, Amsterdam Appetizers

027

Firebird Diner

Trends and concepts impacting the world of

Four Seasons DIFC, Dubai

global hotel F&B

The Bank Brasserie & Bar

083

Supper goes Dutch with our Amsterdam

056

F&B journey with Studio Appétit and Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol

058

Park Hyatt, Vienna ilLido at the Cliff

060

Sofitel Singapore Sentosa Artizen

SERVICE

The Camby, Phoenix Stock Burger Co.

064

032 Main Course

on service, storytelling and working on a

Automata

shoestring

The Old Clare Hotel, Sydney Krèsios 036

Mare Nostrum 066

Jams

discusses the importance of F&B to his

1 Hotel Central Park, NYC

business and why he always follows his gut

La Maison 1888

The VirGIN 070

The Dylan, Amsterdam

074

Drinks The St. Regis Bar

078

InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula 040

Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol

The four founders of AvroKO on why

Amsterdam

owning their own restaurants gives them a

La Grande Table Marocaine

unique perspective on design

The Royal Mansour, Marrakech Le George

Nordic Now

046

080 092

108

St. Regis Dubai Experience Distilled

112

A Rum Resurgence

116

The Art of Balance

120

Punch on the Road

124

Diageo’s One and Only

126

Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris

SIDES

Desserts Hotel Cafe Royal, London

Members Only

106

096

Magnus Nilsson explains why Nordic cuisine probably isn’t what you think

104

Sun Gardens, Dubrovnik

Mercer, Barcelona

Founder of Unlisted Collection Loh Lik Peng

Tried and Tested

102

Crosby Street Hotel, NYC

Award-winning bartender Tony Conigliaro

On the List

Cocktails White Linen

Holiday Inn, Brighton A Factory Man

SIPPING

062

100

050

Brian Clivaz on the rise of the private

GRIF 16

132

members club and why exclusivity is still

Hotelympia

134

key

Petit Fours

136

005

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Setting

“F&B is driving practically every commercial endeavour at this point.�

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ENTRée

Raising the Bar

F

or this issue I travelled to the recently opened Hilton

best new hotel bars, it’s one of Amsterdam’s best new

Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. Amidst the humdrum

bars, period. Hot on its heels is Bar Brasserie OCCO at The

buildings and typical airport fare it sits, a beast of a

Dylan, where classic cocktails are served with a twist and

structure with design and service at its heart. As well

where the bar even produces its own non-alcoholic gin.

as sampling the hotel, it formed the location of our bold

At the other end of the spectrum, the newly opened Generator

centrefold spread, a collaboration with Netherlands-based

in Amsterdam’s up-and-coming eastern side proves that even

F&B concept agency Studio Appétit.

the humble hostel is no longer so humble. Its bar, Nescio, is a

The concept of the shoot knowingly aligns with the

former lecture hall where classroom-style seating flanks the

destination’s ethos of ‘expecting the unexpected’, and for

serving area and a mezzanine chill out space provides room

Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol this means a move

for guests to relax with a beer or cocktail from day to evening.

away from the mediocre associations of airport hotels

What we see in Amsterdam, not even one of Europe’s top

and the delivery of a complex and well-conceived concept

20 most populous cities, is indicative of a level of quality and

that delivers style and service in equal measure. It got me

originality being seen in hotel F&B globally – some of which

thinking however: as guests demand more, are presented with

we’ve tapped in these pages. Our team of contributors headed

increasingly innovative options and as hotel F&B evolves to

to the likes of Automata at The Old Clare Sydney and Krèsios at

become a driver of the hospitality industry at large, is the

the Mercer Barcelona, while in our Starters section we looked

unexpected really just a matter of growing expectations?

to Brighton, where Holiday Inn is recognising the importance

Amsterdam is in many ways a perfect example of how

of creative F&B options in its elevated burger bar concept,

hotels are progressively raising the bar in their F&B offer

Stock Burger Co. These are just a few of the examples of

and delivering guests a benchmark of choice that rises ever

international hotel F&B destinations that are either ensuring

higher. When Waldorf Astoria opened in the city in 2014 it

the modern guest develops elevated standards, or are rising

quickly had plenty of superlatives thrown its way. Set in a

to meet them.

series of interconnected 17th century canal-side palaces it

During my interview with the four founders of AvroKO,

features a two Michelin star restaurant from executive chef

William Harris exclaimed, not missing a beat, “I think F&B is

Sidney Schutte, a brasserie, glamorous bar and a local take

driving practically every commercial endeavour at this point.”

on Waldorf Astoria’s signature Peacock Alley.

It’s a point of some debate, but it’s certainly true that F&B is

The Pulitzer, a hip boutique in an affluent neighbourhood,

now more a part of our lives than ever before. So with the bar

has seen its bar become of the hottest spots in the city. Pulling

raised so high, choices so plentiful and innovation becoming

together dramatic interior design from Jacu Strauss and an

the norm, perhaps the unexpected is exactly what’s expected,

inventive cocktail menu, it’s not just one of Amsterdam’s

if not demanded.

Harry McKinley | Editor

023

THE BRIGADE

Editorial

Advertising

Finance

Editor-in-Chief

Advertising Manager

Finance Director

Matt Turner

Rachel Chadwick

Amanda Giles

m.turner@mondiale.co.uk

r.chadwick@mondiale.co.uk

a.giles@mondiale.co.uk

Editor Harry McKinley

Marketing

h.mckinley@mondiale.co.uk

Contributors

Adrian Moore Chris Fynes

Group Credit Controller Lynette Levi l.levi@mondiale.co.uk

Brand Director

Group Financial Controller

Amy Wright

Sarah Miller

a.wright@mondiale.co.uk

s.miller@mondiale.co.uk

Design

Dan F. Stapleton

Accounts Assistant Kerry Mountney k.mountney@mondiale.co.uk

Dom Roskrow Lauren Ho Nina Caplan

Design

Renate Ruge

David Bell

S. Milioti

d.bell@mondiale.co.uk

Photographers

Corporate

Production

Chairman

Dan Seaton

Damian Walsh

d.seaton@mondiale.co.uk

d.walsh@mondiale.co.uk

Addie Chinn Eric Laignel Erik Olsson Garrett Rowland

Website designed and developed by

Ido Garini

93ft.com

Jason Lang Supper is printed by Buxton Press

Katie Burton

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APPETISERS

Tripping the Food Van-tastic

What is hotel F&B when it’s not in a hotel? It might

wandering food truck. Although mainly in situ at Town Square

seem like a Trivial Pursuit question, but from pop-

– where a 160-room Vida hotel is slated to open – it’s also

ups to burger vans and even market stalls, hotels are

available for boutique catering for up to 50 people. They’ll even

taking F&B beyond their own four walls in concepts

bring the picnic tables and beach chairs.

designed to strengthen the brand and tap new audiences.

The experience of sidling up to a bench in a public space, burger or coffee in hand, may not align with traditional

Long before 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin had welcomed its first

notions of hotel dining but that’s arguably the point. Vida

staying guest, its arrival was heralded with the appearance of

describes its food truck as reflective of a ‘carefree and laidback

Burger de Ville. A gleaming Airstream burger van, it served up

lifestyle’ and, at a time when more and more guests are

classic Americana and gained such popularity that after the

shunning formality in favour of frivolity, it says something

hotel’s opening it took up a more permanent spot on the terraces.

about the person they’ll shortly be aiming to attract - not just

At 25hours Vienna, another Burger de Ville complements the

for caffeine and fries, but as a paid-up overnighter at Vida

hotel’s traditional offer, forming part of an outdoor ‘burger

Town Square Dubai.

garden’ with space for 80 people, where guests and locals alike can eat, drink and be merry on the edge of Weghuberpark.

In Dubai, where hotels complete with megamalls in enticing the hungry, Vida brought hotel F&B up a gear with its own

Flexible and cost effective, these concepts prove that whilst it’s difficult to take bricks and mortar to the customer, with wheels it’s a doddle. And after checking out what’s on offer on the move they may just check in to stay.

027

APPETISERS

Happy Drinking

One

a

than an espresso, The Focus features smoked wheat coffee beans,

happy guest but never has it been more defining

of

the

criteria

of

F&B

success

is

surely

Kamm & Sons and hazelnut syrup for alertness. Finally the Relax

than with the rise of mood enhancing mixology.

blends ingredients like chamomile, lavender extract, lemon, cardamom and Tanqueray.

028

In food, the idea of menus conceived with mood in mind isn’t

Described as the British capital’s ‘first mood menu’, it may

entirely new of course. The Serotonin Eatery in Melbourne has

be seen by some as pure gimmick. After all, aren’t all alcoholic

built its menu around foods that regulate neurotransmitters and

cocktails mood enhancing in some form or another? But the

hormone activity in the body. The aim? Not just healthier guests

venue insists the science stacks up and that the beneficial nature

but demonstrably happier ones.

of serotonin is not to be dismissed.

Drawing inspirational from this emotion-centric approach,

When it comes to drinks innovation, hotel bars are often

Vincenzo Sibilia, bartender at Barts in London’s Chelsea, has

early adopters of course, and the creative applications for the

devised a three-cocktail collection to either boost the mind

sector seem clear. From cocktails riffing off the need for a good

or relax it, but all with the intention of improving happiness

night’s sleep to blends that reinvigorate the weary mind of a

levels. Featuring serotonin-rich ingredients, the Happiness

businessman or businesswoman on the go, mood mixology and

cocktail blends Belvedere vodka with strawberries, lemon, cherry

the hotel industry would seem to make for natural bedfellows.

tomatoes, maraschino cherries, sugar, basil leaves and black

If a happy guest is the goal, then perhaps the answer lies at the

pepper. For those who want something a little more enticing

bottom of a martini glass.

APPETISERS

Got your Goose

Ethical eating has gone from niche interest to placing

farming methods ensure that free-range geese roam wild,

firmly on the menu for many modern guests. Most hotel

without gavage (force feeding) and in line with their natural

brands now have a clear and well-promoted ethics and

migratory cycle. His approach is seen as harking back to the

sustainability story, but it does occasionally veer into

origins of foie gras, when farmers would guarantee geese were

problematic territory when it comes to fine dining.

well treated, secure in the knowledge that consumers would be rewarded with a quality product. The final result has been

Some might say that delicacies like veal and foie gras have a PR

Sousa himself is notably something of a character and it’s

bone of contention for more vocal ethical eaters. That being

fair to say that his geese enjoy a quality of life far removed from

said, try convincing a formidable French chef to reconsider

the norm of farming. His farm is part of the Spanish dehesa,

the menu.

the home of ibérico ham, and it is here that his geese wander

Setting aside subjective notions of right and wrong, as an image issue it’s something that hotel restaurants are proving increasingly cognisant of.

030

dubbed by some ‘freedom foie gras.’

problem. They continue to divide diners and provide an endless

the land, eating at will behind fences that aren’t electrified from the inside. He doesn’t want them to feel ‘manipulated’.

For Nai Harn, opting for a more ethical option isn’t simply

One destination with a balanced solution is The Nai Harn,

a matter of catering to a discerning guest but about taking

Phuket, that aims to ensure guests can enjoy foie gras, guilt

steps to promote more sustainable practices within luxury

free. Sourced from Spanish producer Eduardo Sousa, his

hospitality as a whole.

SERVICE

“They realised that there was an exciting new kind of bartender and a new wave of bartending that could bring more attention to the hotel than the rooms or the chefs could.”

Tony Conigliaro on the hotel industry’s embracing of mixology.

SERVICE

A Factory Man Award-winning bartender Tony Conigliaro on storytelling, service and why working on a shoestring is the mother of invention...just don’t mention the ‘m’ word.

Words: Harry McKinley

I

f chefs are the new rock stars, then in bartenders there’s

But before we delve into his work and his creative success,

something eminently more disruptive, subversive even.

let’s clear one thing up: Tony Conigliaro is not a ‘molecular

They’re perhaps more punk than rock.

mixologist’. Although he’s distanced himself from the term

With his restrained demeanour and measured tone, it’s

cube – sliding back into his vicinity however much he bats

but nonetheless he embodies the wry confidence of a man

it away. It even takes lauded position in the opening line of

whose work is globally celebrated.

his Wikipedia page and in the introductions to numerous

Founder of Drink Factory – a collective of bartenders

features on his work. With its mention a practiced smile

‘pushing the boundaries of their respective crafts’ – he

crosses his face and we get the sense he’s resisting an

works from an East London laboratory, devising concepts

eye roll. Understandably. So how has molecular mixology

that often revolutionise how we think of mixology. His first

somehow become his signature? “Because it’s an easy

bar at 69 Colebrooke Row was opened in 2009 and quickly

term,” he explains. “Molecular doesn’t mean anything. It’s

garnered praise, including being named among the ‘World’s

a misnomer, as it was with molecular gastronomy. It’s just

50 Best Bars’ by Drinks International. In 2014 he opened

a way for people to pigeonhole something that is different

Bar Termini, an intimate coffee and aperitivo bar in Soho

from what came before. It’s not what we do. It implies

that seats just 25 and where traditional Italia meets modern

everything is scientific, when it’s not, it’s romantic and it’s

creativity.

about stories.”

It’s in the Zetter Townhouse Clerkenwell, however,

032

before, it continues to follow him around like a wayward ice

an analogy Tony Conigliaro would perhaps choose to shirk,

Even at midday on a Thursday the cocktail lounge flickers

that we meet. A 13-bedroom Georgian property, it’s noted

with activity – guests with newspapers are huddled over

as much for its cocktail lounge as for its idiosyncratic

cappuccinos and well-dressed arrivals shuffle through,

accommodations. Conigliaro collaborated with the

weekenders in hand. It’s a contrast to Friday and Saturday

Zetter Group on the concept, creating the menus both

evenings when the bar heaves with revellers, but it reflects

in Clerkenwell and at the hotel’s sister boutique, Zetter

an atmosphere carefully designed to feel more like a private

Townhouse Marylebone.

residence than a traditional hotel. “We created a fictional

SERVICE

character [Great Aunt Wilhelmina], who was a composite of

this bar boom is reverberating the world over. From

all of these eccentric artists, grandmothers or matriarchal

speakeasies to gastropubs, high concept cocktail bars to

figures in our family,” says Conigliaro. “It helped us to

spaces than specialise in a single spirit, it’s a crowded

create a story for the bar. At the beginning the designer

market populated by an increasingly savvy consumer.

[Russell Sage] would come around and make decisions

But even with bars as his business, standing out in a

based on this character. We would think about what she’s

competitive industry isn’t Conigliaro’s focus. “We don’t

drinking, where she’s travelling to and what she would like.

pay too much attention to what others are doing,” he says.

We fleshed out a story for her.”

“That’s said without arrogance. It’s just that our interests

This sense of narrative, fictitious though it may be,

are different and what we do is different, so we don’t copy

affords the lounge a life beyond typical design and adds

or consciously think too much about setting ourselves apart.

another dimension to a cocktail menu that is succinct

We’ll always try to break things down to our interests and

but varied. The Levante (Beefeater gin, saffron cordial,

do things differently.”

Amontillado sherry and paprika tincture) and the Köln

It’s this alternative approach and, perhaps, distance

Martini (Beefeater gin and dry Martini with homemade

from common tropes that may make Conigliaro such an

citrus aromatics) drop clues as to the history and voyages

interesting proposition for boutique hotels. Whilst he

of Wilhelmina, someone we imagine would be riotously

doesn’t feel “at all inhibited” when working with a hotel

good fun as a drinking companion. “Obviously that

he’s pragmatic on the issue of hotel F&B as a driver of the

continued with Zetter Marylebone and Uncle Seymour, who

wider bar industry. Even with the greater support it can

is her nephew,” continues Conigliaro. “It’s an enjoyable

sometimes afford bartenders seeking to bring a concept

way to work.”

to market, Conigliaro speaks ardently about the benefits

The notion of creating bars that veer from homogeny and

of stepping out without a safety net. “Even financial

have their own story to tell, or certainly their own dynamic,

restriction creates innovation,” he says. “We opened 69

is something that’s important to Conigliaro. “Ultimately

Colebrooke Row on a shoestring, but we became more

bars aren’t individuals, they’re about individuals coming

innovative because of that. If you land in the lap of luxury it can be less stimulating. I’m not saying that’s what happens

“You can serve everyone to the same standard but also serve them according to their needs.”

in most places, as in hotels you can also see the upscale of that creativity. Everyone always talks about the Artesian bar [at Langham London], for example. They realised that there was an exciting new kind of bartender and a new wave of bartending that could bring more attention to the

in and meeting other individuals,” he says. “So if you

hotel than the rooms or the chefs could.” As for who else is

don’t have individuals creating that space, you just have

doing it well, Conigliaro singles out Agostino ‘Ago’ Perrone,

something that is sterile. You need to have that connection

master mixologist at The Connaught, for praise.

and that isn’t something that can be copied and pasted.”

Of course, when working with hotels, there’s a subtle uniformity that often needs to be applied to afford guests

oblivion, we dive into our standard talking point: the length

an understanding of the brand and allow them to develop a

of cocktail menus. When asked if they’re bewilderingly long

sense of relative familiarity. As with Great Aunt Wilhelmina

these days, Conigliaro is swift in his response. “Always,”

and Uncle Seymour, they operate as members of a family,

he says. “You only need 12 drinks and anything else is

whether they reside in East London or West. So how

overkill. We have always stuck to that rule and I think it’s

does one balance distinctiveness with consistency? For

an important one. There’s a precision. If you have 12 drinks,

Conigliaro it’s about training and service delivery. “You

everyone knows how to make those 12 drinks. If you have

can serve everyone to the same standard but also serve

50, that’s less likely and half those drinks will never get

them according to their needs. Beyond surroundings that

made. But importantly you can tell a story better, convey

will change, it’s a common quality of interaction and a

more about what you’re doing and it’s inevitably more

personalised touch. Otherwise it’s just a series of serving

accurate to what you want to say.”

actions as opposed to something that’s actually for the

Tony Conigliaro is not your typical showman. In person

guest,” he explains. “Also a commonality of training. Even

he’s controlled and unostentatious. Whilst he’s adamant that

if you have ten hotels, if you have ten teams that are good

he doesn’t have a signature mixology style, it’s a character

and that have been trained and educated well, then you’ll

that manifests itself in his work. He leaves the theatrics to

have ten good bars with a common thread.”

others and in a world of high-flying Boston shakers, dry ice

Like most major cities around the world London isn’t

034

As our conversation nears its end, and wanting to make an exit before Conigliaro’s long-waiting lunch wilts to

and eccentric serving vessels, he concentrates instead on

short of bars. Swing a bulldog and you’re likely to hit a

flavour profile, guest experience and – crucially - the art of

Starbucks or a drinking venue. And, culturally permitting,

delivering a story worth telling.

Madeira Sour at Zetter Townhouse Marylebone Photography: Addie Chinn

SERVICE

On the List Founder of Unlisted Collection, Loh Lik Peng discusses the importance of F&B to his business, the hotel market at large and why ‘heart, mouth and instinct’ will always trump a market survey.

Words: Harry McKinley

L

oh Lik Peng is a dynamic force in global hospitality.

nearest tube station. “Have you eaten?” he asks in typical

Surprising considering his education in law and former

Singaporean style. It may be a traditional greeting for the

profession as a corporate litigator, of all things. Yet the

region, but for a restaurateur it feels particularly fitting.

shift in trajectory has paid dividends for the Singapore-

At the very least we understand why he’d want to show

based hotelier and restaurateur. His hospitality group, Unlisted

off the wares of a venue that garners little but praise. He

Collection, encompasses properties in Sydney, London and

collapses into the seat opposite, immediately springing into

Shanghai, as well as Singapore of course. It includes seven

conversation about his day. Anyone lunching nearby in the

boutiques and, although they’re all starkly different from one

half-busy restaurant might think we’d met before; such is

another, they are united by a common theme: a commitment

the informal ease with which Peng talks. “What do you think

to world-class F&B.

of the place?” Well, It’s marvellous of course.

It’s in one of these restaurants that we’re to meet Peng:

importance laid on delivering terrific restaurants is clear.

Green. We’re early, but no matter, it’s an opportunity to find

From Jason Atherton’s Kensington Street Social at The Old

the best seat and have a covert stroll past the open kitchen.

Claire Sydney to unpretentious French dining at Cocotte at the

The restaurant is overseen by Lee Westcott and it shows in

Wanderlust Singapore, there’s a focus on quality and variety.

the modern European menu. It’s a glossy, modern space that

“Groups tend to be good at either the hotel side or the F&B

represents the continued gentrification of a neighbourhood that

side. Very few do both. Even fewer do both well,” says Peng,

was once a little rough around the edges.

with a chuckle. “We are equal parts hotel and F&B. Our hotel

When Peng arrives it’s with little fanfare. He’s alone and greets the staff with warm familiarity. He doesn’t cut the figure of a traditional businessman. There’s no starched shirt

036

Exploring Unlisted Collection’s various hotel locations, the

the Typing Room at Town Hall Hotel in London’s Bethnal

F&B venues tend to be successful in their own right. We’re fairly balanced in that respect and that’s a relatively unusual thing.”

Then again there’s something unusual about Unlisted

or razor sharp suit, but instead a creased blazer and jeans.

Collection. This isn’t a group that deals in run-of-the-mill and

He’s a little breathless, power walking as he did from the

each project embodies a different attitude and a thoroughly

xxx

Table No.1 at The Waterhouse at South Bund, Shanghai

SERVICE

different personality. Peng is insistent that this was the intention from

“less so. Especially in a city where you have a wealth of choice and

the outset. “We never repeat,” he says.

where great food is available at all times of the day,” he says. Anyway,

It’s a smart approach from a group whose hotel work is centred on

guests don’t expect every bell and whistle when staying at a boutique

boutiques. It ensures every hotel and every restaurant remains the

asserts Peng. “I think the people who go to boutiques are different from

original and never the photocopy - each one with its own story to tell.

those who are quite happy to go and stay in a big chain. They demand

“It’s still a relatively niche market,” say Peng, on the issue of

the same level of service that you would get in a larger hotel, sometimes

boutiques as Unlisted Collection’s ‘sweet spot’, “but it has grown

even more, but for them it’s about the character of being in a smaller

dramatically. Ten years ago you had the Philippe Starck ones, now you

property with unique branding and a unique offering,” he says. “It

have a lot of hotels operating in the 30 to 50 room range. People like Kit

overwrites the convenience that a large hotel might provide. A smaller

Kemp have changed the model dramatically. It’s definitely a different

hotel will not traditionally provide the same level of facilities, but I

business model, but one that is much more viable today than before.”

think in F&B terms, it’s not always expected or necessary. If someone

Peng switches effortlessly between discussing hospitality in

orders room service all the time, for example, they’re missing a big

conceptual terms and the bottom line. Yet despite the scale of his

chunk of what the city has to offer and I don’t think that speaks to the

business interests he’s a believer in intuition or what he calls, “a bit of

demographic of boutiques.”

heart, mouth and instinct.” He’s never conducted a market survey and

Of his own hotels, Peng cites the Waterhouse at South Bund, Shanghai

readily admits that most of his projects are based upon the flash of an

– part of Design Hotels - as a good example of what Unlisted Collection

idea, the rest, as he says, “is filling in the gaps.”

represents. “A 19-room hotel, really cutting edge,” he says. “You have

“It’s tough because you never quite know what will work. I’m never

to be very adventurous to stay there and part of that mix is a very

super confident and that’s crucial because it keeps you on your toes,”

successful restaurant.” Indeed the 60-cover Table No 1, with its ‘world-

he says. “Fear is important because it forces you to concentrate. You can

influenced’ modern European menu is often touted as one of the city’s

control a lot of elements and have a sense that something is what the

best. It’s with restaurants such as these that the importance of non-

market wants, but until you try you never know.”

staying guests becomes clear.

Though he’s keen to point out that it’s never plain sailing, it seems that Peng’s intuition has so far served him well. For for all of the importance placed upon F&B by hotels today, and certainly by his own company, he takes a surprising view of its place in the grand scheme.

“If you look at London Edition with Berner’s Tavern, André Balazs with

“If you have a hotel restaurant and you rely on staying guests, you’re in big trouble.”

Chiltern Firehouse and groups like ourselves, then F&B is an important component. But that is a tiny sliver of the hotel market. I think to suggest that F&B is driving the market based on the success of those

“For all of the talk of breakfast and room service, ultimately 95% of

niche players would be an exaggeration,” he says. “Very large companies

your F&B business is from people outside,” Peng explains. “If you have

will build large hotels and they’ll have all day dining and banqueting.

a hotel restaurant and you rely on staying guests, you’re in big trouble.

The majority of hotels are still built under that model. So the tiny sliver

That brings its own challenges. London and Sydney, for example, are

that does well is, I think, the exception at the moment, not the rule.”

foodie capitals. You have to be on top of your game otherwise you’re not

So when it comes to these behemoth hotels and the large global

going to go anywhere. Setting aside the hotel, if the restaurant is not

players, what could they be doing to better capitalise on F&B as a

excellent from day one it will sink. These markets are relentless and you

revenue driver? “I think most of them are not agile enough to ever

have to hit those right notes from the start.”

be meaningful players in the F&B scene, simply because the rooms

With the opening of The Old Claire in Sydney last year and the

component will always have to drive their business. The GM and the F&B

completion of Kensington Street Social in January – the third

director can never pay enough attention to it,” Peng says. “The hotel

restaurant for the 62-room hotel – Peng’s attention has shifted from

operators, by and large, do it terribly. So I think most of them are better

new projects to established. “We are planning refurbishments in the

leasing F&B spaces to outside operators to run independent restaurants

next two years, so we’re undergoing the planning for that now. 196

that are part of the hotel, rather than do it themselves. The guest

Bishopsgate is going into major refurbishment next year, so that’s a

doesn’t care whether the restaurant or the bar is independent, they just

focus.” As for the future, Peng is circumspect. “If you had asked me

care about their experience there. Claridge’s do it well. They have a very

five years ago, I would have gone anywhere. But given our geographical

strong room component and they lease F&B out to the people who do it

reach now, I have to be careful I don’t spread myself too thin. I want

best. The experience for the guest is seamless.”

to continue having fun and if we went into a new market my life would

With Unlisted Collection, all of the F&B spaces are operated inhouse

be unbearable. Naturally I’d like to do more projects, but I think they’ll

of course. The organisation’s mix of standalone units and hotels affords

be in markets I’m in now. Unless I find a really good project,” he says,

Peng something of a wide playing field to explore ideas, but he’s clear on

rounding things off with a breezy exception. After all, when the flash of

the focus. For staying guests, “breakfast is fundamental”, room service,

an idea is all it takes, who can say?

039

Tried and Tested AvroKO is a design and concept firm with a difference. As well as working with the likes of Four Seasons and 1 Hotels, the group owns several standalone F&B destinations, using these projects as laboratories to test ideas and allowing the team to balance creativity with a practiced understanding of operations.

Together founders Greg Bradshaw, Adam Farmerie, William Harris and Kristina O’Neal are the driving force behind AvroKO. Via modern technology we’ve come together across four time zones to discuss their work, innovation and why ‘wishy-washy’ spaces are the worst.

Words: Harry McKinley

In your own words can you tell us about your organisation

static entity and the F&B is the dynamic energy. The shift of

and how you came together as a group?

that axis has been happening for the last decade. I think it’s

WILLIAM HARRIS: It goes back to when we were friends in

at a crescendo point now. The programmes around the F&B

university. We were collaborating and working on projects

are so big that when people think of the hotel they think of

as college creatives do. Ultimately Adam and Greg created an

the F&B components first and foremost.

architecture agency called Avro Design. And Kristina and I had created a branding and strategy consultancy called KO Media.

GREG BRADSHAW: We’ve always approached it from the

We’d always stayed in touch and we got back together and

F&B component. The room is really a temporary sanctuary.

starting working on a project with architecture, branding and

So I think it’s a very true statement. Economically you hear

media. It was a very holistic project. Although an experiment

about places like The Standard, that are making more than

at first, it was a lot of fun and we decided to keep it going.

50% of their revenues from F&B. I don’t think hoteliers would think of a hotel as being successful anymore if the

A focus on hospitality has become central to your work.

restaurant wasn’t successful.

Although it’s a matter of some debate, do you think that F&B is driving the hotel industry at the moment?

Is the issue of cohesion – between the F&B and the wider

WH: I think F&B is driving practically every commercial

hotel – something you take into account?

endeavour at this point! Often people are approaching us for

ADAM FARMERIE: We call ourselves a concept firm as

ways to break down the boundaries between ‘eat, work, sleep

opposed to a design firm. It just so happens that often

and play’. F&B is driving that.

design is how the concept manifests. We start with this one pure idea and let it filter down through the disciplines, so

040

KRISTINA O’NEAL: The Standard and Ace Hotels are the

no part of a project feels discordant from the others. It’s all

obvious folks, but the dynamic energy that they’re creating

part of a greater whole so when you walk through a hotel it

outside of the rooms is the biggest story. The room is the

all feels as though it’s telling the same story.

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William Harris, Kristina O’Neal, Adam Farmerie and Greg Bradshaw

041

Denver Union Station Photography: Garrett Rowland

WH: I think if you have a strong backbone to a project, whatever your

You take a 360-degree approach to the projects you work on. How

ultimate programming is, a space can always be manipulated and bent to

do you do go about resolving some of the other aspects that form a

convey a concept. I think to have different spaces and have consistency is

complete F&B concept?

a great glue to create something that is resolved and cohesive.

GB: Throughout our history of designing these spaces our opinions, or certainly my opinion, has started to shift from thinking that design

GB: Yes, it all starts with the underlying conceit and concept that we’re

was perhaps 70% of the importance and the rest of the elements of

developing for the entire property.

the experience were 30%. That has almost shifted to the opposite percentage. Now, the design is almost secondary to the other aspects of

KO: I also think that sometimes the contrast is where the fun shows

the experience. The experience might be the touchpoints of the graphic,

up. The room is the temporary sanctuary, as Greg mentioned, and if

the uniform of the person in the hotel, the music in the space, or the

you have an F&B element then often cohesion is less important than

blankets they give you when you go and sit outside. Different restaurants

contrast. That’s what a lot of operators are doing today. It has to feel as

call for different strategies. There are certain restaurants where we

though it is the same market but you might not want the spaces to feel

play a lot of attention to the acoustics, because we want a less buzzy

like one unanimous vote.

environment for a fine dining venue. Then the opposite might be true of a bar space where you might want to create a little buzz, even when

Does your approach differ then in creating standalone F&B spaces

there are less people. The audio aspect has such a high impact of the

versus those within hotels?

experience of the space.

AF: You have to start by understanding and identifying with the client, what their history is and where their brand is going. So we create a

WH: The foundation of our studio has been to be holistic and we’re

concept that fits within that narrative but is still distinctive. If you have

ultimately all control freaks of some form or another, so that has led us

an independent restaurateur or hotelier you have to pull something out

to want to touch on all of these different aspects of an F&B space. Over

of the ether that everyone can grab on to. It’s a little bit harder. Everyone

the years we have grown several arms of the practice to help us realise

says it must be great when the sky’s the limit, but actually limitations

that. All of our furniture and lighting tends to be bespoke for each of

can create more interesting responses. Sometimes with so much open

our projects. We have a group [Goodshop] that not only designs those

space it can be hard to find a voice that the client wants to have.

pieces but can also manufacture them. Brand Bureau is our strategy and branding arm. So you can have more typical touchpoints like a name,

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right through to graphic touchpoints that come with an F&B experience:

they’re all slapping each other on the back and congratulating each

the menus, the business cards, all of the collateral, even down to the

other on what amazing taste they have. And that’s not wrong. It’s

uniforms as Greg mentioned. Our favourite projects are the ones where

simply about understanding your core demographic and who you’re

all of those specialties are engaged. But we’re also quite nimble.

speaking to.

AF: I don’t know of very many other design firms that also own and

AF: And it’s about managing who we work with. So we don’t get that

operate their own F&B venues. So it gives us an extremely unique

elephant tusk chair.

perspective on the projects that we work on with our clients. We have experience in what they’re going through and what they’re going to go

GB: I think it comes down to commitment. There are places that I go

through relative to the operation of the venue.

to and they just haven’t committed to being really bad. It’s the wishywashy spaces that I think are the worst.

WH: I think that’s important point. The restaurants are not just business ventures but labs to take risks and push things further than a client

Do you take issues of longevity into account when it comes to an F&B

project would afford. It’s a great way to test and to see what works and

concept and the design of the space?

what doesn’t work. That’s a valuable opportunity.

AF: For us it’s really important to steer clear of what the colour du jour is or what the trend is. It means the project will start to feel dated and

So what do you think have been the most valuable lessons you’ve been

the people who show up because something is flashy and shiny will

able to take from the venues you own and operate and how are you

move on. We mine historical eras, concepts and ideas. Something that

able to apply these to client projects?

people can relate to in a way that feels more sincere. We’re flipping it,

KO: I think the number one thing would be that we consistently

twisting it and re-presenting it, but we’re often utilising history to try to

experiment with operations and how design is affecting operations,

encapsulate and situate a design in a way that allows it longevity.

as well as bottom line. There are a lot of designers, even in integrated firms, who think only of aesthetics and outside experience. We’re thinking, when we hand-off to the client, about how they are going to be able to operate the venue when they have to do it for a decade. Public has been open for over ten years and we’re still using it as a lab and asking how the bar can be formatted to make a faster drink or how the greeting experience can be formatted to offer something different from the norm. If you have your own labs and you’re willing to transform them at will, and change their whole service style in a week, it gives you

“Sometimes the most vulgar projects are those I enjoy the most, because they take risks, they’re more fun and they have a quality that you can enjoy because they’re pure.”

Kristina O’Neal

a different design experience when it translates to someone else.

AF: And we also think about customer psychology and stickiness. What

KO: Sometimes if you can create emotional connectivity you can

you can do on a design front to affect both those things. Customer

supersede these kinds of issues with ‘trend’. So that it always feels

psychology is one of the things that has always connected the four of us.

connected - forever. That’s a really successful project.

All of these aspects of how people feel and act in a space, whether it’s reducing anxiety or increasing pleasure by including these twists in the

Do you think guests are seeking more intimate F&B experiences?

design that affect peoples’ psychology. That’s one of the things we really

GB: I think for the most part we agree with that. That’s very much in

enjoy taking from our own operations into our client work. The other

our DNA – these smaller spaces and more intimate zones, and variety of

thing is understanding the stickiness of a brand. What makes people

experiences. But we’re not always given that. Take Denver Union Station,

want to come back? How do you create ‘Instagrammable’ moments?

which is this massive train station incorporating a hotel, F&B and retail

There’s a social agenda that most projects would need to have to ensure

spaces. The energy is created by the pedestrians walking through, but we

they’re creating a sticky experience.

added these seating groups that created a little bit of that intimacy.

But of course you work from a position of subjectivity so is there such

AF: It can happen in a variety of ways it doesn’t always have to come

a thing as bad taste?

down to scale. That personal connection is key. We’re working on a

KO: I will say that sometimes the most vulgar projects are those I enjoy

6000 ft2 food hall in Shanghai and one of the main reasons the group

the most, because they take risks, they’re more fun and they have a

came to us is that they were terrified of this monster and they didn’t

quality that you can enjoy because they’re pure. There are probably

want to lose sight of the sense of intimacy. They wanted people to have

bigger sins than bad taste.

diverse experiences. One is able to do that in large spaces as well, it just takes a bit of creativity.

WH It’s about whether you’re aligned with the taste of your demographic or if you’re discordant with it. So if you have someone

KO: Food halls, even when connected with a hotel component, generally

that loves gold-gilt lions, massive tusks and gold chenille, and you get

take the opposite approach. You have a central gathering area, a series

a bunch of people together who all love that sort of thing, well then

of vendors and high-energy spaces that aren’t necessarily intimate

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Tivano at The Temple House, Chengdu Photography: Jason Lang

typically. There’s obviously still a demand for that kind of hospitality

particularly successful outside of your own projects?

experience as well.

WH: Every time I visit London I find myself either staying at, or gravitating towards, the Hoxton at Holborn. I think they’ve done an

Talking about some of those different F&B models, how do you think

excellent job of creating a space that ticks a lot of boxes without feeling

the provision of F&B in hotels is evolving?

like a formulaic F&B space, even thought it’s a significant component of

AF: You used to have an acceptable model where a hotel would have

the space.

a well-known chef and the F&B didn’t have to make economic sense.

It was more to ‘capture’ a guest. Now hotels are thinking more about

KO: At the Paramount Hotel New York they have Queen of the Night, an

why people would want to commune in a space and that’s not always a

immersive dinner theatre style experience. It’s taking something that

straightforward sit down restaurant.

is cutting edge in the theatre world and then applying a very old school concept like dinner theatre. The innovation of it is so exciting.

KO: I think there are some interesting things happening with integrated ideas in hotel F&B. A good example would be Blackberry Farm,

And so finally, what’s in the pipeline for AvroKo that you feel

Tennessee, where the whole intention of going is to have a very elevated

particularly excited about?

food experience. You can be fly-fishing by day and then be dining on

WH: We have a lot in Asia. We’re doing F&B at the Waldorf Astoria in

the same fish you netted that night, or you can go picking truffles

Bangkok and we’re doing three levels of eating and drinking at the top of

in the garden with their truffle dogs. The culinary aspect is driving

the new Park Hyatt in Bangkok.

three quarters of the demand for the hotel rooms. The same goes for somewhere like Fogo Island Inn.

GB: There’s also a lot happening in California. One is in Calistoga and it’s a motor lodge type property that we’re renovating on a challenging

044

GB: Farm-to-table ideas are so prevalent that education becomes part of

budget. But that creates a lot of fun opportunities and it’s not what you

the experience of the stay.

expect from the usual luxury Napa.

Be they established or new, which hotel F&B concepts do you feel are

www.avroko.com

Proud to introduce dinnerware

foodservice.onei da.com

Oneida is a registered trademark of Oneida Ltd., an EveryWare Global Inc. company in the U.S. and foreign countries and is used pursuant to a license. Š 2016 Oneida Ltd.

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Nordic Now From Fäviken, the world-renowned restaurantwith-rooms in Sweden’s remote north, we speak to head chef Magnus Nilsson about why Nordic cuisine probably isn’t what you think.

Words: Harry McKinley with elements from The Curious Pear

F

ar from the tourist hub of Stockholm, in the remote and frequently frosty north of Sweden lies Fäviken. Frequently listed among the world’s best restaurants, this culinary outpost features just 16-covers and six rustic guestrooms, but has become required

pilgrimage for fans of Nordic cuisine. Rene Redzepi of Noma once proclaimed, “If I had a chance to go anywhere in the world right now, I would go to Fäviken.”

The restaurant’s prodigious success lies firmly in the hands of its head chef, Magnus Nilsson. And although Fäviken sits in the sprawling alpine lands of Åre - in the Jämtland province where Nilsson grew up - he honed his talents working in the likes of L’Astrance and L’Arpèpe in Paris. Disillusioned with food upon his return to Sweden, Nilsson was initially hired as a sommelier for the Fäviken estate, tasked with overseeing the wine cellars. His tenure in the kitchen is a result of both happy coincidence and, perhaps, fate, as he took on the role only after another chef couldn’t be found.

In many ways it’s eloquent that a man who had fallen out of love with cooking is now one of the leading figures in a global food movement.

In Fäviken, he has created a destination that is high on experience and low on pageantry. The six lodge rooms are compact and unfussy but are, somehow, the perfect continuation of a meal that feels grounded in authenticity and Scandinavian solemnity. Even the restaurant theatrics

046

Photography: Erik Olsson

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– the extraction of marrow from a shinbone in the middle

months. This connection to the earth and to the story of

of the dining room, and a curmudgeonly-sounding ice

this secluded slice of Sweden is part of the experience that

cream maker – feel more understated than most. As Nilsson

proves such a pull for guests. But despite the international

says, “some of the techniques are very rooted in the old

renown of the restaurant, Nilsson thinks there’s still a way

cultures of the area.”

to go before we’ll have a grasp on what Nordic cuisine is

Last year saw the publication of The Nordic Cookbook,

really all about. “You see the most obvious dishes: herring,

Nilsson’s most recent foray into food publishing. An

gravlax, meatballs, those kinds of things. And then you

impossibly thick tome from Phaidon, in it Nilsson

have some very obscure foods like Icelandic shark. Almost

lifts the lid on a rich culinary tapestry that he sees as

curiosities,” he says. “Beyond that, most people don’t

misunderstood. “Geographically, it is such a large region,”

really have a grasp of the full food culture, simply because

says Nilsson. “So considering the nature, the weather and

it’s very inaccessible. If you compare Nordic food culture

the landscape, you naturally have a huge variety of food.

to Spanish food, for example, you could go into a random

One of the things I discovered whilst making the book is

restaurant in Madrid and there is a pretty good chance of

that it is not a homogenous region. What you eat in Finland

you finding a true representation of traditional Spanish

and what you eat in Greenland are incredibly different,

cooking. But in Sweden, you won’t find anything. That kind

but I never realised the degree to which these foods would

of restaurant doesn’t exist, because in the Nordic region the

become part of the menu. It’s not like I’ve just found dishes

food culture is carried more within the home, rather than in

and put them on the menu, it’s more about bringing the

restaurants. If you don’t have someone in the Nordic region

processes into the kitchen at Fäviken.”

to invite you into their home, the chances are you probably won’t get a taste of the food culture.”

Whilst Nilsson acknowledges his place in the

“I think people are a lot more intelligent than to think that what we do at the restaurant is an accurate representation of Nordic cooking”

vanguard of Nordic food success, and is pleased with the camaraderie between the region’s top names – Noma’s Redzepi extended his congratulations to his fellow Nordic restaurants after the release of the 2016 Michelin Guide to the region – he’s also conscious that guests don’t make the mistake of confusing accomplishment with representation.

More than your typical recipe book, what the Nordic

“People know the stereotypical recipes and there has

Cookbook ultimately showcases is Nilsson’s affinity for the

been a lot of media coverage about places like Fäviken and

region. His dramatic landscape photography is as integral

Noma,” he explains. “But I think people are a lot more

to demonstrating the character and context of the recipes

intelligent than to think that what we do at the restaurant

as the handsomely styled dishes. “The landscapes of the

is an accurate representation of Nordic cooking, because

countries I explored were so integrated with the food,’ he

it’s not. The amount of exposure has inevitably shaped

explains. “So showcasing their beauty just seemed like the

the way people see Nordic food, but there is much more

natural thing to do.” A new title – Nordic: a Photographic

to it. What we can see now, and what I hope to see more

Essay of Landscapes, Food and People - presents a

of, is restaurants with their own clear identity, showing

personally curated collection of Nilsson’s documentary

the characteristics of the chef. It makes for much more

photographs from The Nordic Cookbook as well as many

interesting eating.”

previously unpublished images taken during his research.

Understanding this synergy between surroundings and

www.favikenmagasinet.se

cuisine helps, in part, in understanding Fäviken. The region is a postcard of rural Sweden, made up of red wooden

Both The Nordic Cookbook and Nordic: a Photographic Essay of

buildings and imposing forests, backlit by dramatic changes

Landscapes, Food and People are published by Phaidon.

in temperature and light across the seasons. Nilsson

048

himself catches much of the fish served in the restaurant,

Elements of this piece have appeared previously in Suitcase Magazine.

ingredients are foraged on the grounds of the estate and

www.thecuriouspear.com

local produce is preserved in stores for the bitter winter

www.uitcasemagazine.com

xxx

The Nordic Cookbook: Lamb Mutton

Members Only The rise and rise of private members clubs continues unabated, but the stuffy wood-panelled destinations of old are giving way to destinations that fuse bedrooms with F&B spaces in models more akin to boutique hotels than classic meeting spaces.

Brian Clivaz is one of the most noted names in the sector. Behind such projects as Home House and the Arts Club, he has also previously served as F&B director for The Savoy Group and is the owner of L’Escargot in London’s Soho. With the opening of the Devonshire Club, a 68-room private members club in East London, he adds another destination to his exclusive list. He speaks to us about the evolving role of private members clubs in the hotel sphere and explains why a great F&B experience is about more than just food.

Words: Harry McKinley

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The Devonshire Club

How do you think rooms and F&B must work together to create a complete experience?

as your principal clients.

In terms of the F&B, I don’t think exclusivity

someone wouldn’t have to wear a suit and tie to fit in. But I think clubs have driven the

They have to be very closely aligned. Guests

is necessarily allied to the price you pay. There

popularity of boutique hotels and, you’re right,

can go out once or twice during their stay, but

are some places that are not at all exclusive,

some boutique hotels are almost clubs. Take

you want to make their first point of call your

apart from the fact that they charge lots of

Haymarket, Charlotte Street or Ham Yard,

own F&B operation. It’s interesting how some

money. Look at the standalones: a restaurant

they’re really clubs. If you look at Firmdale and

hotels get this very right and others get it very

like Beast for example, where you can expect

look at Soho House, they’re both brands that

wrong. So if you look at somewhere like the

to pay £200 a head for dinner, you would

people like to follow. In a way, Soho House has

Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park or The Goring

expect to be exclusive but isn’t at all. Then

almost become the Marriott Hotels of private

they get it very right, because the restaurants

there’s Wiltons, which is less pricey, but is like

restaurants. It’s got thousands of members and

are difficult to get into. Of course if you’re

a private club. La Gavroche is very much like a

they’re going all over the world, bumping into

staying in the hotel, they’ll find you a place.

private club. Maggie Jones is like a private club.

each other. There’s also Soho Farmhouse now.

If you look at somewhere like the Athenaeum

So it does pose the question of how long it can

Hotel, the whole F&B is being given over to the

So with the exception that one charges a

sustain such popularity and be a private club.

Galvin Brothers. So it will be interesting to see

membership fee and the other is open to any

I tend to create different spaces for different

how that evolves.

paying guest, where does the distinction lie in

markets altogether.

experience between a boutique and a private At a time when the services provided by a

club?

How does that manifest itself in the F&B?

private members club are in many ways akin

Even if someone stays at a boutique, it’s

Because of course a private members club,

to those of a boutique hotel, how important is

likely that they’ll be entertained in a

by virtue of the model, relies on consistent

the element of exclusivity?

private members club. But a private club is

patronage.

It’s essential that a private club is just that:

fundamentally about creating a community

At a private members club, versus a traditional

private. It must be exclusive but, for me, not

with a particular common thread. With Home

hotel, there’s the benefit that the staff gain

exclude. The distinction of course is that with a

House we created a traditional gentleman’s

much more familiarity with the guest. They

private club you pick and choose who you have

club, but for a far more liberal guest, so

know who likes a certain drink and who prefers

051

The Devonshire Club

their meat well done. Recognition is important.

it’s City workers of course, but we also want

every day. A lot of these people have breakfast,

It makes me laugh when you see people

people to come to us. We want to be a magnet.

lunch and dinner in restaurants and they do

putting out brochures saying, ‘we have really

People said Home House would never work and

not want to have a giant slab of steak. They

good cocktails’ or ‘we have a really good chef’,

it could have been the biggest white elephant

want something light and tasty.

because one would expect that they would have

in London, but people loved it: stars of stage

those things. That’s the minimum expectation.

and screen. So for Devonshire Club, of course

What do you feel are some of the shifts in the

A club, however, is always about the bar. If you

the City workers will come but our biggest

industry that will have the greatest impacts

don’t have a great bar, it’s difficult to make

priority is to make it very female friendly. We

on your operations?

it successful. At a private club you have to

want it to be very La Dolce Vita. We’re certainly

It will be interesting to see the effect of the

be able to go in by yourself, sit and feel very

not looking for people who are going to sit

living wage and the EU Working Time Directive.

comfortable.

at a table with a cup of tea, clicking away on

Customers have to learn that they have to

a laptop all day long. We don’t want people

pay for it. They want a cheap meal, served by

sitting there doing their ‘laptopery’, as I call it.

trained professionals with quality ingredients

Is there an expectation that the F&B will deliver at a superior level to that of a hotel?

How will the F&B offer differ from other

understand that they have to pay a bit more so

expensive on your bottom line. To go that

destinations in the area?

that we can pay our staff well.

extra mile is not necessary. There can be an

The F&B is going to be South of France, crossed

averageness, but it depends on the extent of

with my favourite cuisine, which is British of

restaurants because they come along, it’s all

the averageness you’re will to accept. It’s not

course. If you go to the City of London, there

fun, and then disappear. For restaurants that

all about the food but about the experience.

are quite a few places with a sushi element and

have to survive it makes it much more difficult.

If you take The Wolseley, it’s a consistent

you also get steakhouses. Then there are places

Devonshire Square, the home of the Devonshire

standard. It’s never brilliant, it’s never bad, but

in the taller buildings that are all about the

Club, is a good example. You have these pop-

it’s consistently good. I think with Devonshire

view, but there’s nowhere that gives you high-

ups that don’t pay rates and that pay their staff

Club our average will be high.

end sophistication. If I want to take someone

in cash. It’s controversial but they’re really

out for afternoon tea, there’s nowhere similar

sucking business from the ‘proper’ businesses.

I also think many of these pop-ups destroy

Speaking of which, the Devonshire Club is set

to Claridge’s or One Aldwych. There are hotels

to combine 68 guestrooms with F&B. Can you

of course, but their F&B offering is not of the

in school and I told my careers master that

tell us more about the concept?

calibre of the West End.

I wanted to go into hospitality. He said it

Devonshire Club started off as a building with

Our F&B director, Simon Whitley has worked

On a lighter note, I remember when I was

was shameful and that it was the lowest of

amazing open spaces. It had potential for a

with the Dorchester Collection at Coworth Park

the low. At that time you either went into

lovely big brasserie. It’s got the bedrooms,

and he’s also worked all over the world for the

the army or you went into hospitality. Now

the bars, the drawing rooms and the lounges.

likes of Jean-Georges Vongerichten. So he has

people promote the idea that they want to

It’s got a very nice garden and I think having

a great backing in Asian flavours. Head Chef

become a chef or a sommelier. I think that’s

a smoking space is quite important. A club is

Oliver Lesnik was trained at The Connaught

a wonderful shift and it really demonstrates

first about the building and then the people

and was head chef at Claridge’s for many years.

the appreciation being bestowed on the F&B

who are going to populate it. For Devonshire,

052

but they want to pay very little. People have to

To be exceptional is actually disproportionately

We’re going to cater for people who eat out

industry. Long may it continue.

Specials

“I try to create dishes with a lot of adjectives, not with a lot of ingredients.”

Chef Giuseppe Iannotti on his restaurant Krèsios at the Mercer Barcelona.

- BE ORIGINALE s in c e 1525 -

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Pulitzer’s Bar Pulitzer Amsterdam

Set within 25 interlinked 17th and 18th canal houses, the recently

and branding that blends old world character with a contemporary eye.

refurbished Pulitzer is one of the city’s most recognisable boutiques.

It’s a style that aligns with the bar’s demo of bright young things and

Opened in February, the hotel’s bar aims to fuse hedonistic modernity

cosmopolitan creatives.

with a sense of timelessness.

Overseen by head bartender Andrei Talapanescu, the cocktail menu

The 80-cover venue was designed by Jacu Strauss and features an

follows a formula that is classic in style but inventive in execution. Each

appealingly downbeat interior, in which sumptuous velvets and leather

drink features a consistent recipe that is reflective of the ethos of the bar

add depth to an otherwise black space – flickering candles inside merging

as well as the wider hotel: one part the past, one part the present and one

with the glowing street lamps outside to dramatic effect.

part ‘revolutionary’ technique. The pineapple old fashioned is served on

Tableware comes courtesy of Churchill, Sambonet and Maxim World, whilst the bar’s signature tipples are served in a mix of Libbey and Schott

a bed of haw to heighten the aroma, while the G&T features a carbonated gin to aid in the mixing process and strengthen the flavour.

Zwiesel glassware. For menus and logos the bar worked with KesselsKramer, an independent communications agency who have previously collaborated with the likes of CitizenM and Grand Marnier. The result? Collateral

www.pulitzersbar.nl

IN A BITE Covers: 80 • Interior Design: Jacu Strauss • Head Bartender: Andrei Talapanescu • Bar Consultant: Andrew Nicholls • Menus and Logos: KesselsKramer Glassware: Libbey and Schott Zweisel • Tableware: Churchill, Sambonet, Maxim World

055

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Firebird Diner Four Seasons DIFC, Dubai

The DIFC [Dubai International Financial Centre] is often associated with

guest – with a special ‘late nite’ menu available on weekends from

the upscale and contemporary - its Gate Village elevated off street level

midnight until 3am.

and home to many of the city’s commercial art galleries. At the recently

Overseen by executive chef Matthew Dahlkemper, the restaurant’s

opened Four Seasons DIFC, the humble diner is also being elevated,

menu features American diner staples given an extravagant flourish, with

with an Adam D. Tihany-designed space that retranslates the American

Maine lobster corn dogs, ‘chicken fried’ wagyu steak and duck fat fries.

institution as an elegant dining destination.

“I am thrilled to be partnering once again with Four Seasons on such

A creative collaboration with chef Michael Mina - and his eponymous

an exciting project,” says Michael Mina, who was born in Cairo, Egypt.

restaurant management group - Firebird Diner is described as a

“Being of Middle Eastern heritage, I couldn’t be more pleased that our

‘whimsical’ take on the form. Classic open booths provide relaxed group

first project in the region is with such a trusted partner, and in such a

seating, while a diner-style counter offers perching space for those who

vibrant part of Dubai.”

wish to enjoy the view of the Downtown skyline through the floor-toceiling windows. With 87 covers in the main dining room, 36 on the terrace and seven at the counter, the restaurant aims to attract a diverse

www.firebirddubai.com

IN A BITE Concept: Mina Group • Interior Design: Tihany Design • Operator: Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts • Executive Chef: Matthew Dahlkemper • Covers: 87 dining room, 36 terrace, 7 counter • Cadillac Sculptures: Bram Tihany

056

Creating Hospitality

Artesano Authentic. Ingenious.You.

Villeroy & Boch S.à.r.l.

Hotel & Restaurant 330, rue de Rollingergrund 2441 Luxembourg Tel.: + (352) 46 82 11 · Fax: + (352) 46 90 22 E-mail: info.hr@villeroy-boch.com www.villeroy-boch.com/hotel

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The Bank Brasserie & Bar Park Hyatt, Vienna

Recently reopened after a month long renovation, The Bank Brasserie &

Schott Zweisel provides the mainstay glassware, with bespoke pieces for

Bar sees the focus shift from pure dining to a bar-driven concept, with

signature dishes and cocktails. With table linens from Kaechele, crockery

interior design by Dutch agency FG Stijl. The 108-cover space features

from Médard de Noblat, copperware from Ruffoni and silverware from

room for 44-covers in the bar area, 16 at the bar counter and a 12-seat

Robbe & Berking, the restaurant traverses continental Europe in its

private dining room at the brasserie.

eclectic table styling – a chance reflection of The Bank Bresserie & Bar’s

Drawing upon the building’s illustrious past as Vienna’s grand bank, the design incorporates wood, leather and copper in an evocatively contemporary take on tradition.

internationally cosmopolitan guest.

Heading up the concept of the bar, Reinhard Pohorec – or Reini as he likes to be known – is already a globally established name in the drinks

The menu also nods to the heritage of the venue in creations such as

industry and is the creative mind behind Vienna’s boutique bar project

the Tresor, one of the bar’s 11 signature drinks. Made with golden water

Tür 7. ““With its exceptional drink creations, The Bank Bar occupies an

and refined with saffron, it is served in a wooden vault box – challenging

internationally leading role,” he says.

the drinker to think conceptually about notions of worth, albeit with a nudge and a wink.

www.restaurant-thebank.com

IN A BITE Design: FG Stijl • Operator: Hyatt Hotels Corporation • Developer: SIGNA Prime Selection • Covers: 108 • Glassware: Schott Zweisel • Linens: Kaechele Tableware: Médard de Noblat, Robbe & Berking • Copperware: Ruffoni

058

Dining Culture. Pleasure. Experience.

Everything for the perfect sense experience.

Visit us ...

WMF Professional | www.wmf-professional.de

Hotelex Shanghai, March 29-April 1st, 2016 FHA Singapore, April 12-15, 2016 NRA Chicago, May 21–24, 2016

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ilLido at the Cliff Sofitel Singapore Sentosa

Overlooking the Singaporean Straits, ilLido at the Cliff takes its design

Porcelain, glassware from Riedel and cutlery from Degrenne. If the tabletop

cues from the undulating waters outside. The subtly nautical theme from

is clean and unfussy, then the menu is rampant with bravado. Overseen by

JPA Design (James Park Associates) incorporates turquoise furnishings and

executive sous chef Simone Fraternali, it offers a taste of Italy with options

Roman blinds, whilst carpeting in a linear pattern from Interface hints at

including tagliolini with scallops and truffle, and fettuccine with venison

a ship’s planked deck. Sunlight is filtered through the terrace’s glass roof

ragù and radicchio Tardivo.

by an elaborate screen of tensile sailcloth from RIO Interior, reminiscent of

The restaurant’s bar, an imposing slab of Black Forest marble, is framed

the sails of the yachts that occasionally pass on the nearby shipping routes.

by spherical brass pendant lights and flanked by a row of bespoke barstools

The restaurant features 52-covers in the main dining room, 28 across

and tables, also in brass. Serving up classic cocktails, the outdoor space

two private dining rooms, 12 at the bar and 104 on the covered outdoor

provides a welcoming haven for those who wish to enjoy a sea breeze of

terrace, where, in the evening, table lights echo those bobbing on the waves

the more literal variety.

just beyond the cliff that gives the venue its name.

Tableware is modern and understated with plates and dishes from Patra

www.sofitel-singapore-sentosa.com

IN A BITE Covers: 58 dining room, 28 private dining (2 rooms), 104 terrace, 12 bar • Interior Design: JPA Design • Owner: Royal Group • Operator: AccorHotels / Sofitel • Contractor: Sunray Construction • Executive Chef: Simone Fraternali • Head Bartender: Davide Mollica • Tableware: Patra Porcelain • Glassware: Riedel Cutlery: Degrenne Paris

060

TIGERHOTEL ANNIVERSARY 1996-2016

MODULAR BUFFET SYSTEM BUFFET PRESENTATION HOLLOWWARE CHAFING DISHES URNS & DISPENSERS TROLLEYS

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www.tigerhotel.co.kr

02/03/2016 11:03:21

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Artizen The Camby, Phoenix

The Camby is Phoenix’s newest luxury boutique. With 277 guestrooms it

again’ moments, continuing the hotel’s theme of refined revelry and using

draws upon five Cs defining of Arizona in its Stonehill & Taylor-led design:

the five Cs.”

cotton, cattle, citrus, climate and copper.

The restaurant features 56-covers and director of culinary experiences

In the restaurant, Artizen, the same influences can be found. Statement

Dushyant Singh directs a menu that focuses on modern American cuisine,

freestanding metallic light pieces from iWorks and natty diminutive

from prime New York steak to grilled boar strip loin. Signature cocktails

cacti on the tables nod to the hotel’s location but provide a thoughtfully

include the location-appropriate Under the Desert Sun, with Bombay

conceived sense of balance between cliché and modernity, obvious and

Sapphire, Domaine de Canton, lemon, simple syrup and orange bitters;

abstract. The restaurant is accessible from the lobby, where large metal

and the saucily titled Thai Me Down, with Bombay Sapphire East, lime,

screens depicting a nonfigurative southwest pattern separate the two

ginger syrup, egg white, celery bitters and cucumber.

spaces, one bright and light, the other more contemplative in its design with deep cerulean walls and dark wood floors.

Cocktail glasses and china are from Steelite, barware from Modern Mixologist and HF Coors provide custom porcelain pottery.

“We wanted to create an intimate and luxurious space,” says Sara Duffy, senior interiors associate at Stonehill & Taylor, “and ‘look-then-look-

www.thecamby.com

IN A BITE Covers: 56 • Interior Design: Stonehill & Taylor • Owner: Host Hotels & Resorts • Operator: Destination Hotels • Director of Culinary Experiences: Dushyant Singh • Tableware and glassware: Steelite • Barware: Modern Mixologist • Porcelain: HF Coors

062

Stock Burger Co. Holiday Inn, Brighton

When the Burger Theory chain launched in 2014 it signalled a sea change

which is otherwise composed of a mix of private booths, banquettes and a

for IHG and its Holiday Inn brand. More than merely another throwaway

large communal table. Customised pendant lighting helps to define these

concept piggybacking on the still-going-strong ‘burger boom’, it was the

various zones, intuitively providing for bawdy groups and intimate meets

cornerstone of a new approach for the organisation, one that framed F&B

alike. A retractable glazed frontage opens up to reveal a stretch of Brighton

as a key component of Holiday Inn’s revenue picture.

seafront that will soon play host to the British Airways i360, an observation

At the IHG brand conference in Las Vegas that same year Maurice

tower under construction from the same design and engineering team as

Cooper, at the time VP of Holiday Inn in the Americas (now VP of the

the London Eye. Scheduled to open this year, the soon-to-be landmark will

global Holiday Inn family), said that, “F&B is at the heart of how we will

likely reap dividends for the restaurant and bar, as tourists and residents

compete differently.” Fast-forward to 2016 and Burger Theory and its

flock to fill up on modern Americana after their cable car trips.

gourmet classics have proved to be a remarkable hit – both with punters and the bottom lines of the hotels that carry the concept.

Despite the quality of Stock Burger Co.’s design and branding, it’s the quality of the product itself that is central to the restaurant’s ethos. “It

Now in the UK, Holiday Inn are remoulding the idea into a differently

was vital that we didn’t just design a nice space with a substandard food

flavoured patty with the opening of Stock Burger Co. at the brand’s Brighton

offer,” says Webb. “Where possible, local high quality produce is used

location. With interiors and branding from Superfutures, the restaurant

to make sure that Stock Burger Co.’s product is delivered to the highest

follows in the same vein of delivering gourmet burgers and craft beers,

standard.” Beef is 100% ‘Glenarm Shorthorn’, sourced by Hannan Meats

but with an attitude and identity all of its own. “After market research and

from select farms in Northern Ireland. Craft beers are supplied by Naked

design insight we concluded a new burger brand had to compete with the

Beer Co. and Marston’s and Blackdown Distillery throw a number of their

existing high street offers,” says Ben Webb, director of Superfutures, on

finely crafted spirits into the mix, including Sussex Dry Gin and Silver Birch

translating the concept for the UK. “Therefore we had to start from scratch

Vodka. Coffee comes courtesy of the Brighton-based Small Batch Coffee,

with redevelopment of the menu, rebranding and design.”

an artisan roaster founded in 2007. It’s a credible and encompassing list

With 146-covers inside, and 40 al fresco covers on the terrace, Stock

central to the Stock Burger Co. brand narrative.

Burger Co. is positioned not just as a distinctive - and perhaps unexpected -

As for the future of this new Holiday Inn concept, Superfuture’s Webb

F&B offering for the hotel, but as a neighbourhood destination with its own

is clear that there’s possibly a super future for Stock Burger Co. beyond

off-street entrance. “One of our key design hallmarks is the independent

Brighton. “Based on the current success it would appear we have several

high street entry point,” says Webb. “It psychologically disconnects the

Stock Burger Co. sites planned for both the UK and the rest of Europe. The

F&B concept from the main hotel and more importantly allows us to design

thinking behind the concept is that it’s a kit of parts that can be easily

every part of the guest journey from start to finish. The concept offers the

applied across the estate. With IHG we have developed a checklist of design

guest a contrast to the main hotel, which in turn makes them feel as though

hallmarks that will enable the selection of new sites and ensure they meet

they have entered a different environment with its own unique personality.

the same quality standard. We appreciate every site is different and has its

The hope is that the guest completely forgets they are in a hotel F&B space

own challenges, but the key design hallmarks must stay at the forefront

and that they immerse themselves in the brand experience.”

of the concept.”

In its design Stock Burger Co. isn’t derivative. Nonetheless it is intelligible to a broad market, mixing inventive touches with riffs on familiar elements and archetypal burger joint touchpoints. A central bar defines the space,

064

www.stockburgerco.com

STARTERS

IN A BITE Covers: 146 inside, 40 terrace • Interior design and branding: Superfutures • Suppliers: Hannan Meats, Naked Beer Co., Marston’s, Blackdown Distillery, Small Batch Coffee • Operator: Kew Green Hotels

065

Automata Old Clare Hotel, Sydney

Words: Dan F. Stapleton

W

hen Loh Lik Peng, the owner of the

that, unsurprisingly, focuses on foraged ingredients.

Unlisted Collection, opened the Old Clare

Locals who were unable to secure a table at Noma’s

Hotel in central Sydney in late 2015, the

recent Sydney pop-up are flocking here for a bit of

international press focused on its location

Nordic flair.

– on the site of a former brewery in the once-gritty

an unassuming place run by a young chef, Clayton

design. But for Sydneysiders, the real story was the

Wells, who has spent most of his career to date cooking

property’s food and beverage offering: three fine-dining

at local restaurants, albeit well-regarded ones such as

restaurants, each helmed by a chef of considerable

Momofuku Seiōbo. Automata’s five-course set menu

repute, and an elegant bar with Art Deco furnishings.

and resolutely casual approach don’t immediately lend

For decades, hotel dining in Australia was limp and

themselves to newspaper reviews or internet buzz. But

uninspired. Only recently, as Sydney and Melbourne have

many of Sydney’s food lovers are becoming regular

begun asserting themselves as luxury destinations, have

customers at Automata.

five-star hotels begun moving away from safe menus

First and foremost, the food is excellent: inventive

and anonymous chefs. Now, the Old Clare has pushed

but accessible, and light enough to be enjoyed for lunch

the entire industry forward. Opening four distinct F&B

or dinner. Wells focuses on fish and seafood, and enjoys

outlets is an ambitious move for any new hotel, let

playing with textures – for example, the pre-meal

alone one with just 62 guestrooms. The fact that each

snack on a recent weekend was a puffy, crunchy piece

restaurant at the Old Clare is serving challenging, costly

of dried salmon skin that tasted like an upscale Chinese

food makes the undertaking seem even more audacious.

prawn cracker.

The restaurant attracting the most attention is

Unlike some longer small-plate menus, Automata’s

Kensington Street Social, the latest addition to British

five-course offering feels coherent, and the servings

chef Jason Atherton’s fast-expanding empire. Michelin-

are large enough to give diners a strong sense of the

starred Atherton has a knack for capturing the zeitgeist,

ingredients used. In a refreshing twist, the dessert

which in 2016 means an artfully disorganised menu and

offering – such as the recent pumpkin-seed sorbet with

an endless wine list - there were over 180 drops at last

freeze-dried mandarin – is rarely very sweet, acting

count. Next door at Silvereye, former Noma sous chef

more as a palette cleanser.

Sam Miller is offering a 17-course degustation menu

066

Arguably the underdog at the Old Clare is Automata,

Chippendale neighbourhood – and its eclectic interior

“The menu is about finding the perfect balance,”

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Crispy salmon skin with yuzu kosho emulsion and sake

067

MAIN COURSE

says Wells, “and the emphasis is on Australian

his attention to hospitality spaces. Darwon has

glasses from Germany and Nachtmann whiskey

produce. We change our menu as often as

taken a ‘blank canvas’ approach, opting not

glasses from Austria, as well as Mepra cutlery

possible, and therefore offer our guests a

to cover up the building’s original concrete

from Italy. The plates and bowls are perhaps

different experience should they pop in on a

floors or replace its floor-to-ceiling windows.

the least conventional elements: they’re heavy

regular basis.”

Decorative details include a radial engine

and bulky with rough finishes and cream

reborn as a chandelier, but there is no artwork

colouring, giving them an almost prehistoric

Chippendale locals, seem to be the target

or bright colours. The goal, according to Wells,

feel. “The tableware was designed and created

demographic at Automata, which has been

was to create a venue that felt utilitarian and

by Loh Lik Peng’s cousin, Loh Lik Kian from

carefully designed to make diners feel at

remained connected to the site’s industrial

Singapore,” Wells explains. “He has a small

ease. The small restaurant accommodates 60

past.

production so we were lucky to work with him

Regulars, be they repeat hotel guests or

across two levels, with the majority of seats

“The design by Matt Darwon focuses on

on this. The colour scheme and bare materials

at two long, communal tables - there is also a

the bare and industrial look of the building,

reflect our minimal style allowing the focus to

scattering of two-person tables. The ground-

which was formerly Carlton & United

be on the food.”

floor kitchen is open, with a sturdy chef’s

Brewery’s administration building,” Wells

bench in full view of diners. Staff are young and

explains. Because Sydney is a young city,

might feel intimidated by Automata’s set-

stylish but also professional, treading the line

historic spaces that have been repurposed

menu concept and fish focus, he seems

between friendly and efficient with aplomb.

are relatively uncommon, and Wells says

confident that the restaurant’s other charms

Automata’s interior is, in some cases, as much

will endear it to international visitors,

at Automata,” says Wells, “whether you’re

of a draw as his menu. “Our clientele ranges

particularly those who want a more low-key

hoping to dine or work with us.” For staff, that

from creative types to young professionals,”

experience than those offered by Silvereye

means a relaxed dress code and contemporary

he says – “in fact, it’s anyone who is remotely

and Kensington Street Social. Sydney locals,

tunes on the stereo. For diners, it means

design conscious.”

meanwhile, seem to have been won over

“We want everyone to feel comfortable

unpretentious food and the ability to rub

The mezzanine level has a wonderfully

already. “We’ve received an overwhelmingly

shoulders with your companions. Says Wells,

tucked-away feel, with a curved ceiling that

positive response since opening,” Wells says.

“Both our dishes and the communal tables

features original dark-wood panels from the

“Small-plate menus are uncommon in the city,

allow for a sense of comfort.”

former administration building – arguably the

but Sydneysiders always seem ready to try new

least ‘industrial’ element of the whole design.

or different things. We’re incredibly grateful.”

Like the other two restaurants at the Old Clare, the interior of Automata was designed

by Matt Darwon, aka Matt Machine, a local motorcycle mechanic who has recently turned

068

While Wells admits that some hotel guests

But even this space feels minimalist.

That clean, uncomplicated vibe extends to the European tablewear: Spiegelau water

www.automata.com.au

Krèsios BCN Mercer Hotel Barcelona

Words: Lauren Ho

L

aunching a restaurant with Michelin-star

with a series of accolades, he is the holder of one

aspirations in Barcelona – a city already

Michelin star for his restaurant, Krèsios in the city

heaving with top-notch dining options –

of Telese Terme.

is a dicey business. Even more so with an

technical approach and modern interpretations of

for championing its local cuisine. But Francesc

classics such as roast chicken or fish and chips,

Holgado, General Manager of the Mercer Hotel,

Iannotti agrees with Holgado in saying that this

insists that to remain competitive a destination

was a collaboration that was meant to be. “We

restaurant that offers something distinct is in

have the same outlook,” he says emphatically.

order. “There is a lot of good food in Barcelona,”

Holgado reaffirms: “Our points of view and

he explains. “But we don’t have any Italian chefs,

attitudes to service are completely aligned. We

so we thought maybe this is something we can

are both always looking for perfection.” Happily,

offer that’s different.”

the two locations also aesthetically coincide,

So, after three years of trial and error – along

070

A self-taught cook, known for his strong

unfamiliar foreign chef, in an area well known

giving Iannotti little reason to change the décor

with a string of Catalan chefs there was a brief

in the Barcelona venue. Of course, the fact that

stint with the late French chef Jean Luc Figueras

the restaurant – along with the rest of the hotel

– the hotel seems to be back on track to fulfil its

– has been smartly outfitted by Madrid-based

fine dining mission, boldly appointing Giuseppe

firm Gastón y Daniela is a huge boon; understated

Iannotti to take the helm and bring his fresh

furnishings by Italian brand Cassina, dramatic

Krèsios brand to Barcelona’s discerning palates.

full-size paintings by Catalan artist Agustí Puig

And while the 33-year old chef admittedly doesn’t

and low, considered lighting sits within a gem of

have the required celebrity status in Spain, he

a building composed of a variety of architectural

does hold considerable clout in Italy, where along

elements including Roman remains from the

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071

MAIN COURSE

original city wall and medieval arches. Restored

offbeat attitude, which is evidenced in each of

building, ticks all the right boxes for potential

and stitched together by Pritzker Prize-

the dishes that don’t fail to delight. From the

superstardom, there is some stiff competition,

winning architect Rafael Moneo, the hotel

pizza marinara which, wrapped in greaseproof

not only from a city that already boasts 22

– located within the city’s charming Gothic

paper, reveals itself as an Italian iteration

restaurants with Michelin stars, but from a

Quarter – successfully merges the old with the

of a Chinese bao (a steamed, filled bun) to

country that has nurtured the likes of Ferran

new, adding further significance to Iannotti’s

the zhushed-up version of a Russian salad –

Adrià and the Roca brothers - currently holders

cooking philosophy.

molten egg yolk coated in tuna mayonnaise

of the best restaurant in the world title for

and topped with a freeze-dried caper – each

their Girona venue, El Celler de Can Roca.

but the food is certainly a departure, with the

is testament to Iannotti’s instinctive passion,

Expectations are high; discerning culinary

new menu riding on the success of Iannotti’s

creativity and skill. Salty, crispy fried cod skin

tourists are seeking exceptional experiences and

Telese outpost. “Everything here is the same

with paprika; rich, flavourful al-dente risotto

many conservative locals remain loyal to the

as what I have in Krèsios Telese,” affirms

vongole; and an expertly executed goose dish

crew of Catalan chefs that have, in part, built

Iannotti. “The only things I asked for were my

done three ways, are just a few of the courses

up Spain’s culinary reputation. But Holgado

ingredients and some of my guys. This was

– suitably presented on specially designed

insists that attitudes are changing. He also

necessary to continue with my philosophy and

crockery by local studio Luesma & Vega – that

believes that the making of a first-class hotel

my life, because Krèsios is a project of my life.”

with an efficient flourish, are placed carefully

is in the service and that the restaurant is part

Indeed the owner of the hotel, Pedro Molina,

on the starched white tablecloth, under the

of the package. For him, the final ingredient is

has wisely given the chef carte blanche,

glow of a pendant lamp that highlights the

that coveted star. “The most important thing

providing him with the necessary resources in

dish like a prized work of art. “I try to create

is to try and realise what the best service is and

order to succeed, including a farm where his

dishes with a lot of adjectives, not with a lot

work towards offering that,” he explains. “If we

ingredients are specially grown.

of ingredients,” says Iannotti. “For me, the

close the circle with the perfect service at The

design of the dish and the presentation is one

Mercer, then we need to have a good restaurant

of the things that completes the experience.”

with one Michelin star, minimum.”

The interiors might have remained the same,

The result is slick and inventive, emphasising Iannotti’s sincere and honest ethos. The Tarantino-inspired names of the two tasting menus (Mr. Black and Mr. Pink) hint at his

072

And while a stellar chef, a clever menu and an elegant, low-key setting in an impressive

www.mercerbarcelona.com

Jams 1 Hotel Central Park, New York City

Words: S. Milioti

I

t’s interesting how Jams, the new restaurant at the

Kemper Hyers, SVP of Design at Starwood Capital notes

equally new 1 Hotel Central Park, manages to be so New

that it comes down to one thing: keeping it simple. “We

York, yet at the same time, not very New York at all.

pulled out so much ‘design,’” notes Hyers, who led the

The restaurant, with its vaulted ceilings and warehouse

restaurant’s design along with AvroKO, a firm that worked

vibe — combined with its huge picture windows revealing a bustling midtown Manhattan — is clearly embedded in the

“It’s a less-is-more look, which works well with the 1

patchwork of the Big Apple. But a wide range of naturalistic

brand,” says Hyers. “It’s not about piling it on. I didn’t

elements keeps it down to earth and offers a lofty, almost

want it to look mannered, like so many hotel restaurants. It

West Coast attitude.

was about keeping the lines clean and the finishes simple,

It makes sense considering the restaurateur: Jonathan

then layering them with cues from nature. It aesthetically

Waxman, the chef who introduced California cuisine to NYC

respects what Jonathan does, which is to say with his

with his restaurant of the same name on the Upper East

spaces: ‘I found this garage, I opened the doors, I made

Side in the 1980s. Here, the focus is on fresh, unpretentious

homemade food and everyone has a good time.’ That’s the

farm-to-table finds and the design - urban-chic yet rustic

quality I wanted to capture. I wanted it to look effortless,

- reflects that ethos. The floor is concrete. The ceiling and

like you don’t have to work to understand it. Yet I put a

columns are left in their natural state, as are the unadorned

lot of focus on making sure the textures, materials, and

brick fire block walls. It’s almost all track-lit, with very few

furnishings were of great quality.”

decorative fixtures save for 1940s vintage double halophane

074

on the entire hotel in conjunction with Hyers.

Another reason for pulling out that design was to keep

industrial pendants and a huge tent-shaped glass light (in

the focus on Waxman’s legendarily simple yet appetizing

the double-height space) from Radio Guy in Peekskill, NY.

creations. A recent Friday evening dinner was heavy on the

Reclaimed white oak tables in flat tung oil finish (by NYC’s

Waxman specialties like red pepper pancakes topped with

Shimna), and vintage dining chairs reupholstered in a linen

smoked salmon, and simple grilled chicken, infused with

blend complete the picture.

the flavours of the Spanish brick oven. Pastry chef Heather

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Heath ceramic plates, La Tavola Cutlery and Masa linen napkins Photography: Katie Burton

075

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Photography: Eric Laignel

Miller was inspired to create one of the signature desserts

Bradshaw, one of AvroKO’s four partners, had to reduce

- a frozen tropical trifle, with layers of ice cream, icy sorbet

the size of his original lobby concept to accommodate the

and fresh fruit - after the city’s 26-inch February blizzard.

restaurant, which grew considerably from the original floor

It’s all served simply, but on pieces with quality and

plan. Rather than being located off the lobby, it essentially

weight, with Heath ceramic plates, Rona water glasses, La

wraps around it. Bradshaw had to make sure that the two

Tavola flatware, Masa linen napkins, Bormioli Rocco wine

elements, though disparate in size, worked well together.

“We conceived of the lobby as much larger,” Bradshaw

The focus is on fresh, unpretentious farm-to-table finds and the design - urban-chic yet rustic - reflects that ethos.

says, “but in the end the challenge is the same: to make sure they work well together. It’s like you have a restaurant, but have a living room off to the side of it. In both areas, the focus was on exposing the structure. There’s a lot of exposed brick, plenty of woods and there’s stone in the

glasses, even leather cheque presenters repurposed from old leather chairs and embossed with the Jams logo.

The bar is often as busy as the rest of the space, which is

lobby space and concrete in the restaurant.”

Bradshaw notes that reconciling the two spaces was a challenge, but “it made for the synthesis of ideas, which

to say packed. Rough reclaimed oak pantry shelves hold the

always yields a rich experience.” In this case, it also yielded

liquor, and the wooden stools by Rich Brilliant Willing and

an inspired space.

Goodshop make a sculptural statement.

The bar is an especially cavernous open space. Greg

076

www.jamsrestaurant.nyc

Martini Riserva Speciale Vermouth di Torino has been crafted using carefully selected Italian wines and unique botanicals that are rested for 2 months in traditional oak “Tino” barrels.

The result: a rich, complex and balanced vermouth, perfect for the preparation of classic Italian cocktails.

ENJOY MARTINI RESPONSIBLY

© 2016. MARTINI ITS TRADE DRESS AND THE “BALL AND BAR” LOGO ARE REGISTERED TRADEMARKS.

La Maison 1888 InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula

Words: Chris Fynes

T

aking a seat at our booth, we gaze out over the sweeping panorama of a private bay, the East Vietnam Sea rolling ashore and receding in a cyclical repetition. It’s as far from the usual portrayals of Vietnamese travel as can be. Removed from the

hustle and bustle of cosmopolitan life and sheltered amongst the luxury fortress of InterContinental’s Danang Sun Peninsula Resort, the gourmet offerings of La Maison 1888 are in turn a little removed from the norm.

Having been voted the World’s Leading Luxury Resort for 2015, there are high expectations regarding the experiences that await inside the gates. The resort itself can be dissected into four realms - Heaven, Sky, Earth and Sea - but the primary draw is La Maison 1888, IC Danang’s premiere restaurant. It was formerly captained by Michel Roux from its opening in 2012 and handed over to the talented hands of three Michelin-star chef, Pierre Gagnaire late last year.

Owner of the world-renowned, self-titled Pierre Gagnaire in Paris, he rose to fame with his abandonment of the classics and the

d’emotions’ he states that he prefers to be, “frank and direct without

championing of fusion cuisine. Not satisfied with a conventional

being duplicitous and without affectation, whilst conducting his

approach to flavour, texture and ingredients, Gagnaire asks

kitchen orchestra in a score of virtuoso savoir-faire.” In simple terms,

questions of his diner’s palates, purposely looking for reactions to

he describes his work as a combination of “art, love and technique.”

his incongruous concepts. For that reason, it would seem a fitting

fine white bone china for every course. Gagnaire’s equivalent to an

Maison 1888, an establishment with contrast at its heart.

artist’s easel and canvas. These details not only act to cement a mark

The black and white design of Bangkok-based architect Bill Bensley flows through the entirety of this hillside retreat - including the F&B spaces - and is based on the concept of an antique French

of quality but convey a considered relationship with Bensley’s concept for the interior.

The tasting menu, La Maison’s ‘Espirit Pierre Gagnaire’, is

mansion. A private dining space, Le Boudoir de Madame, provides the

a meticulously crafted harmony of Vietnamese produce, with a

arena for Gagnaire’s tasting menu, a series of eight courses involving

supporting cast from more familiar horizons, helping to ensure that

juxtaposing combinations.

the menu’s adventurousness and creativity can be delivered with the

As Gagnaire says, his mission is to, “transcend the raw material and reveal its true substance.” Guided by the pull of ‘un principe

078

Japanese cutlery from La Tavola frames Narumi’s black-accented,

application of this creative attitude that he should now reside at La

full force, flavour and finesse that Gagnaire demands of his ingredients.

Each dish is playful yet created with purpose. Grey shrimp

MAIN COURSE

consommé plays host to oyster with accompanying green apple and

miniature tasting menu of five desserts. Whether it be the pistachio

cauliflower, whilst a cucumber and cheese sorbet slowly smoulders

and Dulcey chocolate parfait with chocolate and coffee soup and olive

atop a fruit tartar, providing the refreshing intermezzo ahead of Nha

oil dacquoise, or the pineapple carpaccio with basil, cheesecake cream

Trang lobster fricassee paired with brown butter, white onions, white

and lychee, each ingredient is deserving of its place and slowly reveals

lard and a coconut lobster bisque.

itself as the flavour develops with the help of a fresh 2011 Saint Albert,

Long slender-stemmed glassware lines the table, keeping watch over proceedings, adding to the theatrics and mirroring the height of

Pacherenc du Vic Bilh.

Delivering an intentioned guest experience Bensley’s design

the vaulted mansion ceilings above. There is a regimented decanting

ensures that following the finale at La Maison 1888, the only way to

of fine French wine to partner each dish – the menu continuing with

return to reality outside of the retreat is to proceed via ‘Heaven’.

creamy morel cocottes with Vietnamese coffee, asparagus tip, soursop

Fully aware of the role France plays in this land’s history, it may

and sugar snap; followed by rack of lamb with couscous broth, date,

not be the most surprising contrast to find a French gem in the hills

fig, apricot, raisin and a turmeric potato waffle.

of East Vietnam’s coastline. However, inside it certainly asks the

If it’s transcendence that Pierre is looking for however, it’s the

questions that diners are more than happy to answer.

Gagnaire Grand Dessert that encapsulates the full spirit of his work, enveloping multiple flavours, techniques and textures into a

www.danang.intercontinental.com

079

Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol

Words: Harry McKinley

A

irport hotels are fundamentally about service

drinking venue slot together under a 42-metre high

and function. The often fleeting nature of

glazed roof that forms the crown of the central atrium,

the guest – on a stopover or business trip

perhaps the hotel’s most remarkable architectural

– means a focus on facilities can trump the

feature. With its fluid, almost Bauhaus lines, it forms an

flourishes that frequently make for a truly dynamic guest

impression of scale and gravitas. LED lighting transitions

experience. At the Hilton Amsterdam Schiphol, however,

from bright white to strips of deep colour, transforming

guests can ‘expect the unexpected’ in a hotel that

the mood from day to night.

combines bold design, contemporary thinking and F&B spaces that are more than mere pit stop.

Architectural firm Mecanoo was responsible for the

Through the use of laser-cut timber screens and varying

build of the hotel, which comprises 433 rooms and

patterned carpets, interior design agency The Gallery

1700 square metres of event and meeting space. It’s a

HBA has created a sense of delineation. These thoughtful

commanding structure and, with is distinctive exterior

gestures retain a sense of openness but create pockets of

pattern and a-typical forms, it strikes a daring note on

intimacy and purpose.

an otherwise drab airport skyline. A covered walkway,

The menu is extensive, recognising the diversity of

the ‘Traverse’, connects guests directly with the airport’s

needs a lobby bar must satisfy. But with a particular

terminals.

leaning towards gin, for example, is also displays

Axis, Hilton Amsterdam Schiphol’s bar, will be the first

080

Despite the expansiveness, Axis isn’t simply a bar counter in a sea of seating, but rather its own island.

personality. Bartenders in relaxed uniforms from Dutch

interaction with the hotel’s F&B offer for many – not

Apparel – think witty denim flat caps and bow ties - are

just led by the desire to imbibe post-flight, but because

ripe with drinking suggestions and able to wax lyrical

it forms part of the open plan, multifunctional ground

on the plethora of spirits at hand, from local batches to

floor space. Here check-in, concierge, seating spots and

international favourites.

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Axis Bar Photography: Hufton+Crow

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Bowery Restaurant Photography: Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol

From the covered walkway drawing guests in, to the escalators and steps that help piece together mezzanines and balconies, there is an intentioned sense of uncluttered interconnectivity. It’s equally apparent

hit the travelator, but from the design to the quality of dining, Bowery creates an impression intended to last.

At the end of the long stretch that forms the restaurant nestles the

in the hotel’s restaurant, Bowery, which doesn’t hide behind walls but

Vine Room, a 20-cover private dining room. A discreetly disguised

flows from the lobby space, curving along the front of the building.

entrance affords an element of exclusivity – an opening floor-to-ceiling

With 225-covers, Bowery forms the F&B backbone of the hotel.

mirrored panel within the mirror-clad wall that seemingly provides the

Executive chef Edwin van den Heijkant oversees a menu that springs effortlessly from continent to continent with Asian classics and Dutch

end point to Bowery.

Although an extension of the restaurant, the Vine Room differs

specialities. The restaurant’s name is derived from the Dutch word for

extensively in look and feel. The accents of blue and easy minimalism

farm and this presents itself through fresh local produce and a nod to

are replaced with black surfaces and a bespoke wine display wall. Dutch

seasonality.

chandeliers by Moooi hang from the ceiling and an original work by

A series of open kitchens line the restaurant, each focused on a

Armando – from Schiphol Group’s art collection - adorns the wall.

different culinary chapter of Bowery’s menu – from a grill kitchen to an

There’s an air of lavishness that provides an appealing counterpoint

Asian kitchen. Each features its own tiled wall adorned with illustrations

to Bowery’s clean informality. Here plates and dishes from Serax and

from Israel Paez that articulate the kitchen’s identity whilst pulling the

cutlery from Studio William continue the sense of distinction.

workspaces together under a common aesthetic. It’s a creative touch

At Schiphol, Hilton is demonstrating a modernity in its approach

that emphasises the open kitchens as theatrical, as well as practical

to hotel development and this is reflected in F&B destinations that

galleries from which guests can observe the buzz of a dinner service. In

wouldn’t feel out of place in a city centre. Amsterdam is a mere 15

the evening the energy of the chefs and the cooking process filters out

minutes away by train but, on the whole, the traditional hotel offer

into the restaurant creating a dynamic air.

means the two locations can feel worlds apart. With airport hotels

Villeroy & Boch provide Bowery’s tableware and also collaborated with

travellers are often used to service at the expense of experience,

the restaurant on a series of mugs highlighting Paez’s work. Glassware

convenience in exchange for character, but Hilton Amsterdam Airport

is from Luigi Bormioli and cutlery from Studio William.

Schiphol manages to combine these elements. In doing so it not only

It is with Bowery that Hilton Amsterdam Schiphol sets itself apart and presents its manifesto: to be more than one expects from an airport-

defines itself as a go-to choice but demonstrates an attitude towards development that translates to guests of all nationalities.

based hotel. It isn’t a restaurant conceived with transience in mind.

Of course from a functional perspective, one can grab a quick bite and

082

www3.hilton.com

SPREAD

Into the Unexpected Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol is a hotel at an airport, but not a typical airport hotel. It created F&B for a design focused, culturally rich, executive oriented destination, sitting atop a global transportation hub.

The journey of a guest through a hotel’s F&B is not only a culinary adventure, but a multi sensory exploration. In every bite and sip one should be offered a taste of the hotel’s essence and gain a better understanding of its identity. With multidisciplinary design studio Studio Appétit, we imagine that journey.

A Welcome Drink at Axis Gin Sul with Fever Tree Mediterranean Tonic Glassware: Luigi Bormioli Tableware: Limited Edition by Studio Appétit in collaboration with Hilla Shamia

Take a Seat at Bowery Restaurant Plates: Serax Cutlery: Broggi Glassware: Luigi Bormioli

Dutch Blue Inspiration Executive Chef: Edwin van den Heijkant Plates: Serax Cutlery: Broggi Glassware: Luigi Bormioli

Location: Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol Concept & Production: Studio Appétit Styling & Art direction: -ISM by Studio Appétit Photography: Studio Appétit studioappetit.com

Nagelhout Croatian roast beef cured with spices

Smoked Rib Eye almonds, mozzarella, panko, tomato

Bowery Bread

by Desemenzo

Tuna Tataki sesame, avocado, ponzu

Umami Oyster cucumber, radish, black pepper

Beef Tartare mustard, shallot, truffle

Seasonal Garden red beetroot, quinoa, carrot, celery

Salty liquorice coins

Broken cinnamon candy sticks

Pate de Fruit: rye whiskey and anise flavoured, custom

Diamond shaped chocolate made from 100% cocoa Oialla organic chocolate.

Narcisse: gold mirror diamond presentation plates. Engraved acrylic with solid wood base

by Studio Appétit

Black doughnuts made with burnt corn peal coal natural colouring and cedar smoked sugar glaze.

Creamy diamond pastry with diamond top

The Diamond Suite The diamond shaped wood inlay parquet flooring - from Bohemian Works and interior designers The Gallery HBA - is custom made for the hotel’s suite and is inspired by acclaimed Dutch artist M.C. Escher. It continues the diamond inspiration that exists throughout the hotel’s design.

Confections: Ido Garini for Studio Appétit For future issues of Supper we are seeking to collaborate with hotel F&B outlets, chefs, bartenders, suppliers, creative agencies and food stylists. Please contact us for further details.

JACKETS

•

APRONS

•

PANTS

•

SHIRTS

•

HEADWEAR

Dressing Hospitality Professionals Across the Globe

www.chefworks.com

La Grande Table Marocaine The Royal Mansour, Marrakech

Words: Renate Ruge

S

teps from the maze of 3,000 tiny

carved cedarwood, stained glass, intricate

tastes, shapes and textures all inspire me.”

winding derbs (alleyways) of the

stuccowork, beaten bronze and inlaid

His gastronomic vision blends contemporary

medina, lined with fruit stalls and open

marquetry in every one of the 53 terracotta-

flavours with traditional Moroccan culinary

sacks of brightly-coloured spice, the

coloured private riads.

heritage. “It’s a real pleasure to develop

whirr of mopeds and cries of market traders,

my cuisine through a different culture and

is the Royal Palace of Marrakech. Cross the

includes dinner fit for a king, served up under

the revival of its gastronomy. Morocco is an

road and you’ll find another palace. This time

the sophisticated watch of three Michelin-

endless source of inspiration, pushing me to

a luxury hotel designed in the style of a mini

starred French chef, Yannick Alléno, Gault

perfection and to discover the wealth of the

medina. An orange tree lined boulevard leads

Millau’s Chef of the Year 2015 and culinary

Arabian Nights.”

us to the imposing Royal Mansour.

mastermind behind the F&B offering. Here he

Known as the master of reinvention,

As you enter there’s instant sanctuary

draws up the blueprint for the three Tables,

hard work and precision lie at the core of

and respite from the heat and dusty streets.

the spa, and in-riad dining. There is also the

Alleno’s craft and ideology, which is why Le

The scent of rose petals fills the air of the

option to request supper in the comfort of the

Grand Table Marocaine now counts among

courtyard, the coolness thanks to walls tiled

riads for a private dining experience.

the country’s top tables and is the jewel in

with a stark white zellij (geometric mosaic)

‘The Prince of the Palaces’, presides over

Royal Mansour’s culinary crown. It’s at this

flecked with blue. Occasional dark wood

a string of other restaurants around the

progressive Morrocan fine dining room we

furniture is carefully placed around a criss-

world including Le Meurice, Le Dali and

sit down for supper. Grandeur pervades every

cross of watery walkways leading to a trickling

Terroir Parisien, his own bistro in Paris, Le

nook of the restaurant, with rich velvet drapes

fountain at its centre. All is tranquil.

1947 in Courchevel, the One & Only at The

and drop crystal chandeliers from Lalique,

Palm in Dubai, the Shangri-La in Beijing and

Baccarat and Venice. It is indeed a scene

commissioned hundreds of artisan tradesmen

restaurant concepts in the Beirut Souks and

straight from Arabian Nights.

to take inspiration from, and blend the

Taipei, Taiwan.

King Mohammed VI of Morocco himself

best elements of, all of his palaces to create

092

By royal command the lavish experience

“I love to adapt my creativity to different

Chef Alléno has immersed himself in local domestic cooking. “Moroccan cuisine is

this gleaming example of North African

markets,” says Alléno. “My many travels

visceral, even emotional – it took me right

extravagance. Behind its stately bronze doors,

inspire me. I love playing with ingredients,

out of my usual way of thinking,” he says. “I

interiors by designers Nicolas Papamiltiades

trying new things, incorporating new flavours,

had to learn the techniques and references

and Fabrice Bourg include huge bronze

tasting, transforming, shaping the product and

behind familiar dishes such as tajine and

lanterns, exquisite honey and cream mosaics,

coming up with new recipes. Smells, colours,

pastilla to bring me to a new understanding

MAIN COURSE

xxx

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Gold rimmed plates from Bernardaud

of the immense scope of Moroccan flavours,

and long, clear stems. Tiny vases of crimson

with spinach and tangy cheese, marinated king

not just for savoury dishes, but for patisserie

roses jostle for attention.

prawns, lamb flavoured with mint and chicken

too: working with sugar and the importance of honey and the variety of spices.”

Working closely with Executive Chef Jerôme

tass, is brought to the table for the ritual

with honey and almonds.

Though the royal pigeon pastilla is the show

hand washing marking the start of our feast.

stealer: buttery crunch on the outside and

Videau and Restaurant Chef Karim Benbaba

Fragrant orange blossom and rose water is

stunning flavoursome game meat on the inside.

on maintaining the integrity of local tradition,

poured from a m’risaht – similar to a teapot

Alléno says, “It’s a matter of knowing how to

for a quick hand rinse. If you close your eyes

punctuated by pungent purple olives with

enhance Moroccan flavours, which are already

and make a wish, it’s said to bring good luck.

saffron potatoes, then a mouth-watering

intense. This country and its produce give so

We oblige.

lamb tagine with parsley, olives and delicious

much in terms of flavour, colour, subtlety and

A profusion of dishes comes one after

More food arrives; delicate sea bream

preserved lemon.

honesty. In fact, to bring this kind of cooking

another – a succession of unexpected flavours

into the realm of fine dining is to betray what

and a unique gourmet experience. A flurry

rose jelly make for a sweet finish. The Orange

it stands for, in a way.”

of Moroccan salads arrives delivered by

Pearls with dates, mint and cinnamon

waiters wearing traditional Jellaba (for men)

transports right back to those fruit stalls of the

is leisurely. The table is lower than average. We

and elegant silk caftans for ladies. Service

medina, where old men sell fat juicy oranges.

sit comfortably on a gold brocade banquette

is impeccable and hyper-discreet, as you’d

Fresh mint tea in polished silver pots is

on one side of the table, which is strewn with

expect. The behind-the-scenes team is just

poured from a great height into traditional

plump velvet cushions and face our dinner

that: seldom seen as they scurry around via a

gold leaf trimmed glasses to wash it all down.

partners sat in grand studded carver chairs on

network of subterranean passages.

According to local custom, the pace of dining

the other.

The salad course elicits an enthusiastic

Desserts like red fruits chlada with delicate

Post dinner, guests pass the fumoir where patrons sip XO Cognac and puff wispy clouds

The pewter tabletop has an intricate pattern

response as small beautiful plates of aubergine

of smoke from fine Montecristo cigars. The

that gleams in the light of the flickering flame

Zaâlouk, orange with beetroot, mechouia-style

rooftop beckons to wind down next to a private

of occasional candles. It’s set with chunky solid

bell peppers, purple artichokes and lemon and

pool and fireplace, where nightcaps can be

silver cutlery by Saint-Joanis. Plates and bowls,

olives from the souk, turnip from Agafay, dried

savoured looking up at the starry sky and

white with a thin gold trim around the rim,

tomato and fresh coriander courgette salad

listening as the haunting call to prayer rings

are from Bernardaud, JL Coquet and Raynaud.

make a refreshing and colourful start.

out across the city.

Toasts are raised in crystal glasses from SaintLouis and Schott Zwiesel, with ruby red cups

094

The traditional gleaming silver vessel, a

Small briouates – parcels and cigar-like shaped cylindrical savoury pastries– are filled

www.royalmansour.com

Elegant textiles for hospitality

www.ingridlesagecreations.com

Octopus cooked over a wood fire

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Le George Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris

Words: Adrian Moore

T

he Four Seasons Hotel George V has always

The new incarnation, known as Le George, is a

been a world-class leader in the hospitality

luminous dining room looking out onto the interior

industry, as much for the high standards of

marble courtyard, designed, like the rest of the hotel,

its rooms and amenities as for its gastronomic

by Pierre-Yves Rochon.

offerings. Its gourmet restaurant, Le Cinq, has hosted

An entranceway of black metal framework,

high level French chefs such as Philippe Legendre

embedded with Lalique crystal panels, opens onto

and Eric Briffard. With charismatic world champion

an ivory and white dining room with vaulted ceiling,

sommelier Eric Beaumard as its director, it has

well spaced tables covered in brown leather (no

always drawn top talents, recently culminating

tablecloths here), and supremely comfy Damask

in a three star Michelin rating under most recent

upholstered wing chairs and 1930s grey leather

chef, and former Ledoyen chef de cuisine, Christian

armchairs.

Lesquer. To ensure optimum quality, all other dining

Light from the interior Marble Courtyard is

outlets fall under the command of the head chef -

filtered through made-to-measure grey cashmere

including La Galerie (run by the talented and aspiring

curtains, and the easy on the foot carpeting is

David Bizet), Le Bar, and all aspects of room service.

straight from the archives of the venerable French

It is quite the foodie event then that the hotel

house of Branbuenié. The room is given a surprisingly

has recently launched its first new restaurant since

contemporary touch with optic illusion ‘paper

it reopened its doors a decade and a half ago, in

sculpture’ paintings from artist Junior Fritz Jacquet,

what was most recently the Salon Anglais private

rounded out by Artistic Director Jeff Leatham’s

function room, and formerly the first restaurant

elegant, sometimes provocative floral arrangements.

to open in the original Hotel George V, the luxury

His installations often provoke ‘oohs and ahhs’ from

brasserie Les Princes.

diners..

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The cherry on this opulent design cake is

healthy. Tuna crudo, with petals of black

by General Manager José Silva and with

truffle; onion “tarte tatin” with parmesan

chandelier, also conceived by Rochon for the

whom he worked at the Four Seasons Hotel

sorbet and an astoundingly fresh langoustine

Lalique house. In the coming months, a seven-

Les Bergues, has an impressive culinary

with Mostarda di Cremona (an ancient north

metre high, glass enclosed ‘orangerie’ will

background. He earned his first Michelin star

Italian concoction wherein preserved fruit is

give guests the opportunity to dine year-round

at the age of 29 in his native Tuscany, and

marinated with mustard oil or seed) are but a

in the marble courtyard, protected from the

a few years later in 2005, was named young

few of the dishes on the menu.

elements.

Italian chef of the year by the Gambero Rosso

Whilst the defining characteristic of

guide. While working at Les Bergues, he also

his cooking is simplicity, chef Garfagnini

Parisian. The majority of diners come from

obtained a Michelin star rating for its fine

says, “I use the best products available to

around town, with only 20% hotel residents.

dining establishment Il Lago and opened an

me and promote the product in its purest

This mostly local crowd are doted upon

innovative rooftop Japanese fusion restaurant

form. I don’t want to disguise it or hide

by Director Quentin Garreau de Labarre

called Izumi, which remains to this day one of

it in any way.” He does feel lucky to be at

(formerly number two at Le Cinq) and the

the Swiss city’s most coveted tables.

the epicentre of the gastronomic world,

The ambiance is subtle, relaxed and

charming Vanessa Bonnaud, who for years

Le George was created with the idea of

especially being able to use the best produce

catered to every whim and caprice of the

providing a modern French and Mediterranean

from his own country as well as the south

world’s most famous fashion designers, stars

table with a distinctly Parisian vibe, a

of France, and while the majority of his

and billionaires at the legendary avenue

‘convivial gastronomic experience’. The light

cooks are Italian, there are also teammates

Montagne restaurant L’Avenue. It’s a brilliant

and healthy dishes, meant to be shared, are

from Ireland, Korea and Japan. All adhere

move to ensure a star-studded clientele.

composed of crudos, vegetables and fresh

to the same values: “A good work ethic and

pasta, which is made twice daily. Risotto is

atmosphere are absolutely essential in the

made to order.

kitchen.”

The cuisine, described by the hotel as “a journey between the French Riviera and northern Italy”, is thanks to Marco

098

Chef Marco, who was brought over

a breathtaking 2½-metre Baccarat crystal

Although many of its style-savvy

Garfagnini - born in Carrara, the same town

mannequin-sized guests may be calorie

from which the majority of the hotel’s marble

conscious, the food satisfies on many levels,

is sourced.

embracing fine dining while remaining

It makes for eminently satisfied customers as well. www.legeorge.com

Supper Final Advert 3.indd 1

07/04/2016 15:04

DESSERTS

Dessert Restaurant at The Café Hotel Café Royal, London

Diners with a sweet tooth will be celebrating the launch of London’s

The carefully orchestrated menus feature a range of savoury bites

first dessert restaurant at the Hotel Café Royal. Devised by the

to cleanse the palate, followed by sweet creations designed to dazzle.

hotel’s executive pastry chef, Sarah Barber, the concept features

“The ‘Jaffa Cake’ is served in a woodland forest with mandarin

a series of tasting menus inspired by childhood memories and the

chocolate mushrooms,” explains Barber, who also puts her creative

whimsy of Lewis Carroll.

spin on rhubarb and custard, and an elevated ‘Snickers’ bar. “These

A respected figure in the F&B industry, Barber has honed her craft internationally, most recently as executive pastry chef at Corinthia

are flavours I remember growing up and the idea is to create sweet memories the guest will cherish.”

Hotel, and previously as head pastry chef at ME London Hotel,

Each menu features an optional wine pairing, with varieties

Yauatcha and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, as well as holding

selected to complement the sweet flavour profiles, including Prosecco

positions at Mandarin Oriental, The Ritz and The Connaught.

di Valdobbiadene, Henriques y Henriques from Madeira and a range

“We felt there was a gap in the market and that it was time to

of traditional dessert wines such as Château Roumieu, Sauternes.

give desserts a temple,” Barber says. “The concept is built around a journey and creating a tasting experience.”

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www.hotelcaferoyal.com

SIPPING

“Cocktail making is about putting your inspiration on the bar. It is about the journey that you go through as a creator, and part of that journey is taking your guest along with you.�

Ariel Leizgold

COCKTAILS

White Linen The Crosby Bar Crosby Street Hotel, New York City

The Crosby Bar in NYC stretches from Crosby Street at the front to Lafayette Street at the back. A spacious room with high ceilings, long pewter bar, grey oak floors and tall warehousestyle windows looking out to the trees at the hotel’s entrance, it has a vibrant buzz and flows into an all day dining space. Part of the Firmdale Group of boutique hotels, Crosby Street manages to combine British charm with Big Apple attitude and so it’s fitting that one of the bar’s signature cocktails features quitessentially anglo-flavours with a little added bite.

The White Linen features a classic combination of Hendricks gin, cucumber, egg white, lemon juice and sugar: blended, poured over ice and topped with a generous sprinkle of cracked black pepper. www.designhotels.com

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A NE W P R E M I U M R A NG E O F D E L I C AT E LY C A R B O NAT E D FRU I T D R I NK S M A D E W I T H P U R E FRU I T J U I C E S. Available in four timeless flavours: Apple, Pear & Elderflower Sparkling Raspberry, Sparkling Ginger and St Clements Orange & Lemon.

SALES@FROBISHERS.COM T: 01392 825333 @FROBISHERS #FROBISHERSCLASSICS W W W. F RO B I S H E R S .CO M

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05/04/2016 11:05

COCKTAILS xxx

Mare Nostrum Maraska Lounge Bar Sun Gardens, Dubrovnik

Situated six miles from Dubrovnik, Sun Gardens is a five star resort on the Adriatic Coast, boasting views of the Adriatic Sea and the Elafiti Islands.

Known for its inventive cocktails, the resort’s various bars serve up original creations from bar manager Mirko Strazicic.

The Mare Nostrum is one of Sun Gardens’ two signature cocktails and derives its name from the Latin for ‘our sea’. Described by Strazicic as, “a light yet powerful mix with a refreshing scent of herbs and fruits,” it features a combination of Gin Mare, orange liqueur, Blue Curacao, 1724 Tonic, fresh grape juice and a mint reduction. www.dubrovniksungardens.com

SIGNATURE | EXPORT STRENGTH | DISTILLER’S CUT Premium London dry gin craft distilled in the heart of England using eleven of the world’s finest botanicals.

Incredibly crisp and fresh the Burleighs unique recipe includes silver birch, dandelion, burdock and elderberries.

A TRULY ARTISAN CREATION www.burleighsgin.com

COCKTAILS xxx

The VirGIN Bar Brasserie OCCO The Dylan, Amsterdam

The Dylan’s newly reopened and refurbished Bar Brasserie OCCO is aiming to cement its position on the map as one of Amsterdam’s premier mixology destinations.

With a succinct list of signature cocktails, each option is intended to provide a surprising twist on a classic. The traditional Bloody Mary is reimagined with fermented tomatoes and carrots, while ‘A Fisher’s Friend’ is an inventive take on an Old Fashioned, featuring chocolate bitters.

Perhaps the most novel, however, is The VirGin. Made with the bar’s own non-alcoholic gin, it is served on the rocks with lime and Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic. www.occo.nl

HANDCR AF TED NATUR AL SPIRIT 56 Sunbeam Road, London, NW10 6JQ +44 (0) 20 3602 9980 info@bimber.co.uk www.bimberdistillery.co.uk

The St. Regis Bar St. Regis Dubai

Words: Harry McKinley

T

he St. Regis Dubai was the first to open of several

But of all of the destinations within the hotel it is perhaps

hotels at Al Habtoor City, a $3 billion mixed-use

the St. Regis Bar that feels most distinct. A wood-

development that straddles Sheikh Zayed Road and

adorned space on the ground floor, it exudes a traditional

the soon-to-open Dubai Water Canal.

atmosphere that harks to New York City’s Gilded Age - the

Anyone with a lasting familiarity with the city will

remember what stood before. The Metropolitan was one of Dubai’s oldest hotels, it’s quaint but dated pink façade

equivalent.

The interior was led by Hong Kong-based Bilkey Llinas

completely at odds with the gleaming high-rises of nearby

Design (BLD) and brought to fruition by Khatib & Alami,

Business Bay. It often struck an amusingly discordant

one of the region’s most prominent architectural firms.

note on journeys from one side of the city to the other, a souvenir from a Dubai that has long since moved on.

It’s unsurprising that was has replaced it is a vision of

With a theme of ‘speed and sport’, the space features a myriad of polo-inspired elements. Leather saddles are repurposed as decorative objects; previously ridden by the

modern grandeur and pomp. Far from a faded remnant,

hotel’s owner Mr Mohammed Al Habtoor, Al Habtoor Group

the St. Regis Dubai sits proud and resolute, a beaux-arts

vice chairman and CEO. The equine inspiration continues in

monolith at the end of a striking, garden-lined drive. It

the sculptural pieces that dot the wooden shelves and heavy

may be smaller in stature than some of the city’s cloud-

furnishings.

embracing stays, but it nonetheless makes a bold statement.

For the artwork, Dubai-based consultants Ophelia

With its own fleet of Bentleys circling outside, the aura is

sourced a number of exclusive pieces. A mix of polo-themed

one of expensive exclusivity. If the Metropolitan was old

and abstract works hangs both in the main space and the

Dubai - or as old as its possible to be in the ‘City of Gold’ -

glass-fronted cigar lounge, where guests can retire to

then the St. Regis is unashamedly new Dubai.

sample the venue’s fine Cuban selection. It’s a refined,

Inside a sweeping grand stairway, marble floors and

social space where a curved leather banquette draws

crystal chandeliers complete the image. In terms of F&B

together groups of guests. The ambience is one of stately

the hotel is well stocked. Among the options are a French

homeliness: more private study than hotel bar.

brasserie, steakhouse, 1930s Parisian café, champagne

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bright lights of Manhattan swapped for the Middle Eastern

Behind the bar purples and oranges undulate in a mural

lounge and a spot for afternoon tea overlooking the gardens

by local artist Roberto Raad. Art Deco in style, it features an

and lobby.

interpretive take on a Bentley Mulsanne and continues the

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St. Regis tradition of featuring murals inspired

with Worcestershire sauce and a slick of fresh

City, he also be heads up the newly adjacent W

by the hotels’ location. Alongside, the more

celery.

Dubai and Westin hotels.

lavish spirits sit framed in inset cabinets, on

For a space that prides itself on its richness

view but secured by lock and key. A bottle of

the traditions of the region with date paste,

and detail, the St. Regis Bar embodies a

Hennessey Paradis and Johnnie Walker Blue

rose infused vodka, pickle jalapeños and

relaxed sensibility. Despite the polished

Label peer out from behind glass.

tomato juice made from the golden variant as

exactness, there’s little that feels stiff or

opposed to the usual red. In a flourish befitting

uninviting. Guests sink into bulky leather

Bottles huddle together on a single shelf. With

of the city’s moniker, gold dust floats liberally

sofas and armchairs, the lighting is warm and

such ornate surroundings, there’s a pleasant,

atop the mix, the flaxen flakes catching

considered, and there’s an air of privacy that

classic ease to it. Bartenders mill behind the

the light and clinging to the cubes of ice in

feels all the more remarkable considering the

counter ready to strike up conversation. St.

clusters.

grandness of the hotel at large.

The back bar itself is an unfussy affair.

Regis worked primarily with African + Eastern,

Glassware is a mix of Stölzle, Villeroy &

Dubai is not a city to shy away from

and also with MMI, to supply the drinks offer,

Boch, Waterford Crystal, Silo and Eisch. Riedel

ostentation and this can sometimes present

which includes Remy Martin, Louis XIII, King

decanters catch the eye on entry - on display

itself in F&B spaces that feel imposing but

George V and Hennessy as signature brands.

as ornamental pieces awaiting an order of

impersonal. The St. Regis Bar isn’t an exercise

quality red.

in understatement, but it is executed with a

More signature to St. Regis than any liquor range, however, is the Bloody Mary. A quick

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Dubai’s version, the Golden Mary, plays on

As well as a substantial but curated drinks

sense of commitment, an eye to intimacy and

skirt of the menu reveals regional options

menu, overseen by head mixologist Ilhan

with a well-conceived concept. It culminates

from the St. Regis Rome, Florence and New

Beser, the bar offers a variety of nibbles. Served

in an experience that manages to live up to the

York. Each is local twist on the classic, the

on dishes from Bernardaud and with cutlery

expectations of the first St. Regis in Dubai and

Mary Terranean (Rome) featuring olive oil

from Sambonet, Octopus croquettes, wagyu

set itself apart in a region all-too-familiar with

and oregano; the Bloody Brunello (Florence)

sliders and short ribs with mac and cheese are

luxury bar and restaurant spaces.

grappa, honey and rosemary; and the original

some of the options devised by Chef Stephane

Red Snapper (New York) a taste of tradition

Bulchholzer. Culinary director for Al Habtoor

www.stregisbardubai.com

SAVE THE DATE

NOVEMBER 13-15, 2016 JAVITS CENTER, NYC

WWW.THEHOTELEXPERIENCE.US STAY CONNECTED:

PRESENTED BY

#HX2016 PRODUCED BY

CO-LOCATED WITH

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Experience Distilled Neil Macdonald is brand experience director for Chivas Brothers and, as he tells us, customers want more than just a drink these days - they want a story.

Words: Dominic Roskrow

I

t’s one thing serving a customer a Plymouth Gin in your bar, but it’s quite another to be able to share your experience of sipping a gin and tonic in Plymouth Gin Distillery’s Refectory Bar - the very room that the Pilgrim Fathers stayed in the night before they boarded The Mayflower and set off

for America.

That’s the view of Neil Macdonald, who is responsible for meeting the

demands of an ever-growing number of distillery visitors, for welcoming on-trade staff from across the country to the distilleries, and training bar managers, restaurant staff, company personnel, and a growing legion of brand ambassadors on the provenance and heritage behind his brands.

It says much about the growing importance of drinks tourism that Macdonald has been tasked with making sure that the company’s two gin and four whisky distilleries with visitor centres offer an experience every bit as good or better than the competition. He has been involved with the marketing of Chivas Brothers and what was Campbell Distillers for more than 20 years, most recently with the prestigious Royal Salute brand.

He is relishing the challenge, arguing that drinks tourism is in its infancy.

“I think we’re just starting and the challenge will be how to accommodate all the people wishing to visit,” he says. “Increasingly people want more than just the brand, they want a story, too. When they buy a drink in a bar they want to have experienced that drink in the place where it was made, and to have met the people behind it.”

Macdonald says that a growing number of bar managers and staff are taking the opportunity to learn about the brands they are serving in situ, whether it

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be in a whisky distillery on the island of Orkney

“Whisky tourists are a mix of people, some

from the setting you’re in. But it’s the simple

or the Refectory Bar at Plymouth Gin Distillery.

who want to learn about a complex subject

extra experiences you might have from

They’re doing so because their customers,

such as whisky, and some who already enjoy

visiting a distillery. At Aberlour, for instance,

faced with so much choice within the drinks

whisky, and are searching for something new

you can taste the whisky from both a sherry

industry, are seeking out brands with

and exciting. Many are coming to see if they

and bourbon cask. But we also have a cask of

provenance and heritage. “Getting the visitor

can buy something from the distillery they

sherry there too, so that you can draw the link

experience right is absolutely essential because

can’t get elsewhere.

between the sherry and the whisky from a

that experience is part of what any drink

“But the whole community benefits from

sherry cask.”

brand stands for, and what that brand is. It’s

these visitors. When we reopened the distillery

important to keep learning, finding out more,

facilities at the Scapa distillery on Orkney the

the Internet mean that even the non-traveller

evolving and staying ahead of the game.”

whole community got involved. You’re asking

can benefit from what is a renewed thirst for

people to go a long way but if the experience of

information and knowledge,

Whisky tourism has been big business for some years now, and the leading producers

doing so is a great one, everyone benefits.”

Macdonald also argues that social media and

“The experiences of those 100,000 can be shared on the Internet and social media and

Their customers, faced with so much choice within the drinks industry, are seeking out brands with provenance and heritage.

we want millions of people to find out about the places our spirits come from, to hear their stories and to share the information with their customers and friends.”

Meanwhile Macdonald says it is in the

are in friendly competition to make their

interests of staff in any on trade outlet

offering bigger and better than their rivals. But

Chivas Brothers with visitor centres hosted

including hotels to stake the trouble to learn

Macdonald’s view is that the larger the number

100,000 people last year - modest when

about how the drinks they are serving are

of brands, and therefore competitors there are,

compared to some other companies. It’s worth

made.

the better it is for anyone.

the effort, though, because nothing matches

“The large number of craft gins benefits the whole category because it means that people are talking about gin rather than vodka,

114

Macdonald says that the six distilleries of

“Education is massively important,” he says.

the first hand experience of tasting a drink in

“Especially with a drink like whisky, which can

the place it’s from.

be a daunting subject. It can be appear to be

“It’s called perceptive expectation,

very complicated and difficult to understand.

and that presents an opportunity to offer

and it refers to the way your brain makes

Being able to simplify any drink will help the

something different and new.

assumptions about how something will taste

sales of it.”

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Diplomรกtico Ambassador

DRINKS

A Rum Resurgence The rum category is benefiting from some tender loving care. We look at how it’s targeting whisky and brandy as a premium spirit Words: Dominic Roskrow

W

hat a difference a decade makes.Ten years

is, though, you can’t please all people all of the time and if

ago rum was white and light, the owner of

one category is catching the public imagination more than

Macallan single malt whisky was arguing that

another, inevitably there will be a straggler.

darkness was being banished to the edge of

town, and spirits producers were tripping the light fantastic.

Now we’re not quite back in black, but if the world of

For a long time dark rum was it. Where in most cases heritage and history count for a great deal, for a long time the heavy imagery associated with dark rum was a

spirits had a theme song, it would start with the line ‘hello

millstone round its neck. The old British naval associations

darkness my old friend.’ And of all spirits categories, the

looked at best quaint and outdated, and at worst hinted at

most surprising renaissance of all is that of dark rum.

something just a little bit unpleasant, with the faint whiff of

Rum has been on a slow burn for some years now. Once

grog, sweat and brutality.

somewhat frivolously positioned as a party mixing drink,

While trendy party-goers turned to white rums, lighter

it began its reinvention with the launch of spiced rums in

rums and spiced rums, dark rum just seemed to sit there,

the 1990s. Light rums started to be taken more seriously at

festering, and metaphorically dreaming of better days when

the start of the millennium. Now, with the backing of some

there would always be an England.

ardent supporters and spirits experts, it’s on the verge of a

Something has changed though, as Matthieu Delassus

remarkable turnaround as drinks enthusiasts seek out fine

of West Indian rum distributor Spiridom explains. “Our

and individual dark rums from a host of South and Central

view is that the general outlook for rum has never been so

American countries, as well as the better known islands of

good,” he says. “In each of our markets, lights are turning

The West Indies.

to green, with a surging interest from professionals and

Rum is in a unique position as while other spirits are overwhelmingly dark, light or white, rum can be all three.

Throw in category distractions such as spiced rums and you’re looking at one very versatile spirit drink. Trouble

individuals, and more especially for premium and super premium aged rums.

“Evidence is easy to find for this developing trend simply with the multiplication of rum festivals all over the world.

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Diplomรกtico Rum ageing cellars

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We have recently participated in rum festivals in London,

launched two single cane estate rums which are designed

Milan, Madrid, Paris, Copenhagen, Lucerne, Hong Kong,

to further segment the rum category, accelerate the move

as well as several major cities in the United States such as

to ‘premiumisation’rand which will inevitably be seen as a

New York, Boston, Chicago, Miami, Los Angeles and San

step towards the single distillery world of malt whisky.

Francisco. In each of these places, people gather in rum

There is one other factor that will undoubtedly affect how

societies to share their knowledge and passion for their

the rum category evolves: Cuba. With U.S. President Barack

favourite brands, just as whisky fans do.”

Obama making history by visiting the country and all signs

Certainly the trend towards dark rum seems to have global

pointing to an economic rehabilitation for the rum-loving

appeal. Talk to rum producers and suppliers and they will all

island, it’s a case of ‘when’ Cuba starts trading with

talk about growth in Germany, France, Italy and some parts

America again and not ‘if’. So what will that mean for rum?

of the United States. Some mention Spain and Pernod Ricard,

Benjamin Jones, the United States director for Rhum

which markets Havana Club, points to the ‘premiumisation’

Clement and Rhum J.M., is optimistic. “When Cuban rum

trend in Asian markets. So why has this happened?

enters the US market, I believe it will have a substantial and

Partially the change is the rehabilitation of dark spirits.

positive impact for all premium rum. Initially I think it will

Partly it’s because people are seeking out bigger and bolder

take a little market share away from some brands, most

flavours and, rightly or wrongly, they make a link between

notably Bacardi.”

taste and colour. Partly it’s because people are drinking less but better, and are seeking out premium drinks with a story to tell. Rum has spotted a market in the premium sector.

Somewhat ironically, history and heritage are major factors in the dark rum renaissance, as drinkers seek to discover the nuanced differences between rums from Antigua, the Dominican Republic, Cuba or Venezuela.

Consumer education has become key. Perhaps belatedly,

History and heritage are major factors in the dark rum renaissance, as drinkers seek to discover the nuanced differences between rums from Antigua, the Dominican Republic, Cuba or Venezuela

the rum companies have taken a leaf out of the whisky textbook and engaged the customer more fully. Hence the number of rum shows. It would seem that the category is still playing catch up though.

“I would say it’s happening, and is probably one of the

The competition will be welcomed. There will be a wide open door for other premium craft and heritage Cuban rums to enter the US market. Nick Blackness, marketing director

main reasons for its fast development in recent years,

at Havana Club International, agrees. “Across the board,

although at the moment it can’t really be compared to

consumers are increasingly buying brands that they feel

the level of education of whisky consumers,” says Patrick

an emotional connection with; brands that have a story to

Rabion, export director at Diplomático Rum. “Premium

tell and that do it in a compelling way. With our rich Cuban

dark rum brands have invested a lot of time and resources

heritage, Havana Club has plentiful stories to tell and we

on consumer education and professionals training.”

are looking forward to sharing them with Havana Club fans

It seems that with education and the launch of new

around the world in the months and years to come. If the

products at the top end of the market, the profile of the

trade embargo between Cuba and the USA is lifted, there

dark rum drinker is shifting. Where once it was polarised

would definitely be a strong opportunity for Havana Club in

between cheaper mixing rums favoured by the party crowd,

the USA.” Exciting times for the rum category then.

and those who sipped it over ice at the high end, the category is broadening its appeal in general.

So have dark rums got single malt whisky drinkers

“The rum category is currently the most underpremiumised spirit category,” continues Blackness. “The opportunities for premiumisation are clear. Rum has all

in its sights? There are a mixture of views among the

the credentials to step up as the next experience in luxury

producers, but they all accept there is some way to go.

spirits. Ultimately premium rums have authenticity,

But certainly Bacardi thinks there is mileage here. It has

heritage and character.”

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Photography: Le Bristol Paris

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The Art of Balance To what degree should regional wines take centre stage and how does a sommelier strike the right chord between championing the surrounding area whilst delivering on guest expectations?

Words: Nina Caplan

A

fine hotel and a fine wine aren’t

struck between the familiarity of fine dining

alike in many ways but they do

and the pleasant shock of this particular

have something in common when

dinner.

it comes to terroir. It is, after all, important to be representative

In wine country, there’s another person who has just as crucial role in striking that balance:

of one’s region. Just as a bottle of Bordeaux

the sommelier. Most fine dining restaurants

should taste recognisably like Bordeaux,

will offer the wines the world considers the

nobody visiting Burgundy is looking for a Las

greatest available – Bordeaux and Burgundy –

Vegas-style masterpiece of gambling kitsch:

and pretty much everyone offers Champagne,

they are hoping for the essence of Burgundy

proof that even in a world where the finest

with luxury fittings. But at the same time,

Cava or Crémant is a better drinking experience

you have to stand out from your immediate

than the worst Champagnes, many people

neighbours, or why stay ‘here’ and drink

don’t consider it a celebration unless the fizz

‘that’? No wonder a great hotel restaurant

comes from that famous patch of northern

is such an asset: it’s a way to celebrate

France.

individuality, revelling in the character of the

In France, this makes the priorities

region. As the diner spears a delicious morsel

straightforward – “The top three regions

composed of locally grown produce, carefully

requested are Bourgogne, Bordeaux as well

coaxed into an unfamiliar yet appealing form

as Champagne,” says Bernard Neveu, Chef

by the talent in the kitchen, he or she knows

Sommelier at 3 Michelin-starred restaurant

exactly why they have chosen to come to this

Epicure in Le Bristol hotel. He adds that,

establishment: that delicate balance has been

“Seeing how we are located in the heart

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of Paris and Le Bristol sells classic French service, I am

Piedmont, there are new wineries and wines every year –

open to recommending wines from any region of France;

a bewildering choice through which the sommelier must

sometimes even other European regions.” And that’s the

guide his guests. “The challenge is to try to know most of

hierarchy: simple. I have had some astonishingly good wine

them so I can always offer something new to the customers,

and food pairings in Epicure but every one I can remember

especially the regular guests.”

has been French.

Elsewhere in the world, the sommelier’s job is more

This, more than the geographical selection of wines on their list, was the common refrain among those I spoke to:

complicated. In Spain, do you prioritise Rioja and Priorat?

the customer must be happy, and these sommeliers – a

In Portugal, should the Douro take precedence? And what

varied bunch, with backgrounds ranging from aeronautics

about the New World? On the one hand, sommeliers want

to journalism – believe that showcasing the terroir in which

to demonstrate the greatness of local wines – but a hotel

their establishment is rooted is the best way to ensure this.

is not a boarding school, and if a guest wishes to spend a

Juan Pablo Jiménez Hincapié, head sommelier at Bohemia

week in the Canaries drinking nothing but Bordeaux, then

Suites & Spa in Gran Canaria, points out that Spain is a

perhaps a hotel should make that possible. As for food

country with an immense variety of gastronomic traditions

and wine matching, the sommelier’s great task, a talented

and of vines. “My job is to show visitors our wealth and

somm can do so much more than ally a dish with a wine

help to create a complete gastronomic experience.”

made in the same vicinity. But then again, a cuisine that is

Depending on the customer, he says, sometimes that

celebrating local produce may very well be shown to best

means a Spanish wine, often from one of several small

advantage beside a wine from the same neighbourhood.

wineries he likes to work with. “Sometimes their choice is an international reference and a nice talk about local

Even in countries that have less of a hallowed wine tradition, the sommelier is likely to make a point of ensuring that at the very least, his guests do not leave in ignorance of the local winemakers

production.”

Even in countries that have less of a hallowed wine tradition, the sommelier is likely to make a point of ensuring that at the very least, his guests do not leave in ignorance of the local winemakers, even if they choose not to try their wares. At Château Frontenac in Quebec City, sommelier Zsombor Mezey (who is originally from

At Six Senses Douro Valley, a recently opened hotel

122

Romania) acknowledges that Bordeaux and Burgundy are

and spa set among Portugal’s most famous vineyards,

the primary vinous destinations – particularly unsurprising

Wine Director Francisca Van Zeller presides over a bold

in a Francophone region with close, if sometimes

experiment: local wines only, although local is loosely

problematic, ties to France – but says that the US, Italy

defined (and Champagne is the exception). “We are located

and yes, Canada figure high on guests’ wishlists too. In

in the oldest demarcated wine region in the world. Port

contrast to Europe, this is where the New World wines

has been produced here for centuries and before that the

come into their own. “They are in very high demand,

Romans were already producing wine in these parts,” says

especially the small, unique, and exclusive wines,” he says,

Van Zeller. “Since the 1990s, DOC Douro has been producing

adding that the food and wine match of which he is most

fabulous reds and whites that have gained the wine world’s

proud in his career so far, was a Mollydooker Verdelho

approbation.” So it seems a shame not to show that off.

from McLaren Vale in South Australia accompanying

Six Senses’ wine list is structured as a journey along the

grilled vegetable salad with fresh tomato and mozzarella.

river Douro, including Ribera del Duero in Spain, “because

Is there a particular affinity between the produce of those

this area shares with us the location on the river Douro.”

countries that took European traditions and planted them

The region’s 100-plus indigenous grape varieties and

across the oceans, and the wines that are also European

terroirs are showcased on a 700-strong wine list on which

transplants? Or maybe it’s just that Americans, Canadians

Champagne is the only departure from the Douro theme.

and Australians are more inclined to try something that

Other places are less categorical while still making a

is, like them, an offshoot from the Old World. Hard to say,

point of their pride in the home region. “I really like it

and in any case, impossible to generalise. Each great hotel,

when diners drink local wines because our country is full

like the great wines they serve, is unique. And arguably

of small artisan-family owned wineries,” says Marco

each guest is too, even if many of their requirements

Reitano, sommelier at Rome’s only 3-Michelin-starred

overlap. Combining all those different personalities into an

restaurant, La Pergola atop Hotel Cavalieri. “Italy has over

appetising blend is no easy feat. “In this job psychology,

200,000 wine producers and hundreds of indigenous grape

people skills, likeability, seriousness are all needed,” says

varieties.” And of course, while there are perennial greats,

Hincapié. But it is the ultimate achievement of a talented

particularly from the most famous regions of Tuscany and

somm to do just that.

Photography: Hotel Cavalieri Rome, Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts

Punch on the Road at Candelaria, Paris

DRINKS

Punch on the Road On a tour of the world’s best bars, London Edition’s Punch Room is taking to the road in 2016.

From Singapore to Miami, from popups to takeovers, the bar will be showcasing its distinctive approach in global style. Lance Perkins, director of bars at London Edition, explains.

What was the rationale behind taking Punch

emerging or untapped markets. Paris has a

back now, like milk washing, fat washing and

Room on the road?

burgeoning bar scene, and Miami is becoming

some fairly new like clarification, foams &

We love what we do here at Punch Room, but

a cocktail capital. With Singapore, next year

barrel ageing.

we want to take it to a wider audience and

everyone will be talking about it, so we want to

have fun with it. Taking the bar on the road,

be part of that.

we’re able to meet a load of new people and

The Milk Punch is arguably the Punch Room’s signature cocktail, in which ways

learn from what they’re doing. We have a great

Which brands have you got on board for your

does it represent the ethos of the bar and how

network of bars in London and our cocktail

road trip?

will this be showcased on tour?

scene is globally renowned, but it’s great to

Well we’re partnering with brands that

It’s definitely our signature punch and

explore and show the rest of the world what

we’ve worked with before and have existing

although it does represent us, it’s also a great

we’re known for.

relationships with. Punch on The Road is our

representation of the punch category. It’s a

tour, but we rely on collaborations to make it

recipe from 1750 so very classic but at the same

What is it about the Punch Room specifically

work. The brands that we have either used or

time very modern. That’s exactly the ethos

that you hope to showcase?

are signed up to be involved in 2016 are Pernod

of Punch Room - apply modern ingredients

The skills of the bartenders, the quality of

Ricard with Plymouth, Olmeca Altos, Martell,

to a very classic concept. It will be the main

drinks and our jovial side. Most hotel bars are

Havana Club and Absolut Elyx; Bacardi with

drink of the tour and we will adapt the recipe

super formal with regimented service, but we

Banks Rum; and Brown Forman with Woodford

everywhere we go. For example in Paris we did

like to challenge the status quo and bend the

Reserve.

it with all French spirits: cognac, Calvados,

rules. Having fun is the most important part

Lillet Blanc and absinthe. Yes, absinthe! Our

of running a bar, both for the team and the

How will the locations impact on the menus

guests.

created and how are the region-specific

punchbowls will also be travelling with us.

cocktails devised?

[Punch Room’s punch bowls are a signature

The plan includes a myriad of destinations:

We completely recognise that whilst we want

of the bar. Sourced from a dealer in London’s

NYC, New Orleans, Chicago and Berlin, to

to showcase our brand, we also want to reflect

Hackney, they are all antique.]

name a few. How did you decide on the

our surroundings and tailor our offering

locations and how do the bars and events

depending on where we are. For Paris, Davide

Finally, who from the team gets the lucky

you’re partnering with represent the best the

Segat [London Edition bar manager] used a lot

task of travelling the world?

world has to offer?

of French products to ‘French up the menu’, so

It will change, but Davide will be a constant.

We’re very lucky in that we’re able to choose

to speak, and for Miami the Clearer Colada was

He opened Punch Room and so is well versed

who we work with. When we decided on Paris

an obvious choice. We want to show that we’ve

in all our practices. No one is better suited to

for stop one, Candelaria was an obvious choice

put thought into it, rather than just rolling

represent us than him.

because it’s one of our favourite bars in the

something out.

world. We will always partner with people we like, admire, and can have fun with. In

What kind of processes are you using in

To keep up to date with Punch on the Road and the

choosing cities, we’ve pinpointed places that

terms of mixology?

international schedule, visit them on Facebook at:

have a lot going on at the moment – existing,

We use quite old techniques that are coming

www.facebook.com/PunchRoomLDN

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Diageo World Class: Tanqueray No. TEN

DRINKS

Diageo’s One and Only Words: Harry McKinley

B

lending fine drinking with destination resorts, Diageo

legs down. At the One & Only Ocean Club on Paradise Island

Reserve World Class have partnered with One & Only

in the Bahamas, UK bartender Ali Reynolds – of London’s

for Destinations Distilled. Across 2016 the project

Hawksmoor – channelled the flavours of the region with a

sees six of the world’s best bartenders travelling

mango, lime, coconut, sugar and Ron Zacapa rum creation,

to six One & Only resorts, on a mission to create bespoke

finished with a blue macaw feather. “I was fascinated by

cocktails that will interpret and capture the essence of each

the 12th Century Cloisters which were shipped over brick

destination though the art of mixology. “This partnership

by brick from France to the resort in the 1960s. As such,

with One & Only will bring to life experiences that will be

through the language of mixology, the cocktail speaks

authentic, sophisticated and entertaining using the finest

to both old world romance and new world exuberance,”

Diageo Reserve spirit brands,” says Matteo Fantacchiotti,

says Reynolds. “I like to avoid fuss. A good backstory and

Global Reserve Commercial Vice President.

something to get the guests interested is my focus.”

“It is my view that cocktail making is about putting

Descending on One & Only Palmilla in los Cabos Mexico,

your inspiration on the bar. It is about the journey that

Japan’s Michito Kaneko – founder and sole bartender of

you go through as a creator, and part of that journey is

The Lamp Bar – drew inspiration from the landscapes and

about taking your guest along with you,” says Israel’s Ariel

scents of the region in a subtle cocktail including Don Julio

Leizgold, founder of several award winning cocktail bars in

1942 tequila paired with the tart freshness of local lime

his home city of Tel Aviv and one of the bartenders taking

juice, homemade vanilla soda and a dash of rich mineral salt

part. Listed in 2011 among the world’s 50 most influential

water. Giving up his job as a construction worker to pursue

people in hospitality, Leizgold will be heading to Emirates

a career in mixology, Kaneko’s understated approach has

One & Only Wolgan Valley, Australia, where he will seek

seen him garner significant acclaim. “I think it is a Japanese

to gain inspiration from his surroundings. “I call my style

speciality of mixology, to make delicate but well-balanced

‘storytelling through cocktails’. Everyone loves stories,

cocktails,” he explains. Precise and exacting he likes to

which are the essence of hospitality,” he says. “Taking

demonstrate, “accurate and stable bartending techniques.”

your guest on a ride of inspiration, giving them a glimpse

Still to come, Vítězslav Cirok of the Czech Republic will be

of how you create, deconstruct flavours, give birth to new

travelling to Capetown South Africa where he hopes to be

presentations using new and old stories - that is how I view

inspired by the, “rich culture, native people, local cuisine

my creations.”

and African roots” in his work. Jack Sotti from Australia

Already underway, Destinations Distilled’s journey is two

may not even need his passport as he flies to the country’s

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DRINKS

Japan’s Michito Kaneko

Hayman Island. “I can’t get past the azure blue of the Great

while Kaneko invariably reaches for the Don Julio and

Barrier Reef and the fresh maritime scent in the morning

Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve.

on the beach. I think I’ll start there,” he tells us when we

Their approaches and tastes may vary, but one thing

ask about how he expects to be stirred by his surroundings.

each bartender agrees on is that appreciation for mixology

Finally, Greece’s Emmanouil Lykiardopoulos will bring a

is growing and projects such as Destinations Distilled are

close to the project, heading to Reethi Rah in the Maldives.

helping to shine a light on the creativity and complexity of

“I like using new and unexpected materials to create

their work. “Day by day, the art of mixology is becoming

meaningful cocktails with character that are able to awaken

more and more interesting,” says Lykiardopoulos. “Cocktail

all senses,” he says.

competitions like World Class can only help but put this

Naturally working with Diageo Reserve gives the

on a pedestal for the world to see,” agrees Reynolds. For

bartenders unlimited access to an array of premium spirits,

Leizgold, it’s about developing a respect for the form. “Mr

but they each have their own favourites according to style

Erik Lorincz [head bartender at the American Bar at the

and taste. “I love gin and gin loves me back. Tanqueray

Savoy, London] once told me that he thinks cocktail making

no. Ten is without a doubt my favourite spirit for mixing

is exactly like cooking, only instead of using fire, we use ice.

cocktails,” says Leizgold. “It’s diverse and fun. Like me

I cannot agree more and, ultimately, the modern guest has

really.” Lykiardopoulos seconds his choice. For Cirok

become a true connoisseur of all things pleasurable.”

it’s not about what’s in a name, “I would say that I am

“Craft cocktail culture is changing the way we experience

closest to Ciroc Vodka, but if we dismiss my surname I

fine drinking, positioning bartenders as true craftsmen

have to say that I very much enjoy premium whisky from

and women who are celebrated for their work,” says

the classic range of malts - namely Talisker. I appreciate

Diageo’s Fantacchiotti.

its roughness, rich taste, individuality, spiciness and its

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elegance. A few key words identifying my personality.”

www.diageo.com

Reynolds is particularly fond of Johnnie Walker Blue Label,

www.oneandonlyresorts.com

DRINKS

Tributo

Havana Club An ode to ultra-premium Cuban run, Havana Club have unveiled a new series of bold limited editions. With only 2,500 bottles of each available, a new limited edition will be unveiled annually at the Cuban Habanos Festival – where cigar aficionados assemble to indulge in the local wares.

A collection crafted for collectors and connoisseurs, the packaging is designed to maximise shelf appeal and cut through the noise of a premium back-bar. Created by Nude Brand Creation it’s inspired by the variety of Cuban architectural styles and features a healthy dose of blue, the national colour.

The 2016 release is led by a base of rums aged in 80year old casks. Bright and clear in colour, a balanced but

heady aroma hits the nose, with dried fruits and raisins highlighted with subtle oak notes. The taste is full bodied and lingers.

“Creating the Havana Club Tributo Collection is a fascinating process, as each release will provide a new and unique taste experience, achieved through experimentation with rum bases from our reserves,” says Asbel Morales, Maestro Ronero for Havana Club. As a seal of quality, Morales’ signature and the number of each bottle is displayed on the label.

The collection will be available in 10 global markets, including China, Mexico, the UK and Cuba. www.havana-club.com

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DRINKS

Forest Gin British boutique gin brand Forest Gin has unveiled its new bottle design, a collaboration with Stoke-on-Trent potter Wade Ceramics. “We have always been very proud of the original bottle, but the chance to change to Staffordshire Porcelain was just too good to miss,” says Karl Bond, co-founder of the family-run business and staunch believer in choosing local. “Everyone at Wade has been so helpful with the process, and to see the finished product is amazing. We truly believe that this is the world’s most beautiful Gin bottle.”

Much of the manufacturing process is completed by hand, down to the application of the Suzy Taylor-designed papercut weasel that adorns the exterior, and each bottle features a hand-written batch number.

Launched in 2015, Forest Gin is made in tiny batches of around 80 bottles and has been awarded medals in the ultra-premium category of the Global Gin Masters as well as two separate double-gold medals at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition.

With increasing international acclaim comes greater interest from the on-trade market, with Forest Gin now stocked in the UK at Selfridges’ Forest on the Roof in London and Manchester’s Renaissance Hotel. www.forestgin.com

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SIDES

“What is happening off the plate can be as important as what is happening on the plate.�

Michael Ellis, International Director of Michelin Guides, speaking at GRIF 16.

Puccini Group founder Bob Puccini onstage with Supper Editor Harry McKinley

The Global Restaurant Awards at Burj Al Arab

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SIDES

Global Restaurant Investment Forum 14th – 16th March, Dubai

S

howcasing the hottest restaurant concepts from around the globe

Supper editor Harry McKinley was joined on stage by Bob Puccini, founder

and giving attendees a place of focus to connect with investors,

of the Puccini Group where they discussed homegrown F&B concepts, pop-

owners, franchisors and senior hospitality professionals, GRIF 2016

ups and the crucial role design plays in creating successful eating and

- organised by Bench Events - was held at The Address Dubai Mall

drinking concepts. “Restaurants are as much about heart as the stomach,”

in the city’s vibrant Downtown neighbourhood.

Puccini told the audience.

For 2016 GRIF partnered with Michelin, with Michael Ellis, International

Inspired and informed, delegates decamped to an exclusive event at

Director for Michelin Guides, delivering several keynote presentations over

OKKU at the H Hotel to discuss the day’s talking points over cocktails

the course of the three-day event. Delivering insight into the selection

and nibbles. Afterwards the more hardy headed up to the 40th floor to

process as well as trends in the F&B sector, Ellis spoke on the importance

continue conversation at the hotel’s rooftop bar 40 Kong, taking in the

of relaying a ‘food story’ but keeping it succinct. “Guests want to get a

impressive views before the unseasonal rain brought a dramatic end to

sense of provenance but some restaurants have taken that notion a little

the evening’s festivities.

too far,” he explained. “Ultimately diners aren’t interested in the name

The closing day saw the presentations continue apace, with panel

of the farmer.” Other movements noted in the sector included the divide

discussions on the art of franchise negotiation, the changing business

between formal fine dining and more casual models. As Ellis explained,

models of hotel F&B and investor opportunities.

“guests still want to dress up for dinner, just not that often.” Speaking on

A dynamic finale, Into the GRIF Den saw three food concept founders

the importance of experience Ellis noted that, “what is happening off the

pitch their ideas to a panel of judges, including Sami Daud, founder and

plate can be as important as what is happening on the plate.”

chairman of Gourmet Gulf Co.; Eric Bellquist, partner at Hutton Collins

For attendees the event began with a culinary tour hosted by Emaar

Partners; Ron Pearson, partner at Bowmark Capital; and Noma’s Marc

Hospitality Group. An early start at French bistro and boulangerie La Serre,

Blazer. As well as gaining advice on their businesses, it was an opportunity

at hotel Vida Downtown, set the tone for a day of hotel restaurant discovery

for the business founders to seek investment from an audience of influential

and canapés, with the likes of Armani Hotel and The Palace showcasing

industry insiders.

their F&B venues along with appetising samples of their offer.

The closing evening saw the launch of the Global Restaurant Awards

An opening networking reception at Intersect by Lexus in the DIFC

at the iconic Burj Al Arab. Held in the Al Falak Ballroom, an opulently

(Dubai International Financial District) offered delegates an opportunity

decorated space styled after an 18th century Viennese opera House,

to meet and network in a recently opened space, with the city’s Art Nights

guests dined on foie gras and caviar while the winners were announced.

event bustling in the surrounding galleries.

Among them, Berner’s Tavern at the London Edition picked up the gong

Day two saw the speakers take to the stage and included presentations

for Design, with the judges describing it as, ‘outrageously brilliant in its

from Marc Blazer, chairman of the board for Noma; Rohit Sachdev,

design, appearance and character’. GM Pierre Noublanche was there to

managing director of Soho Hospitality; and Simon Taylor, head of business

accept the award, dedicating it to his team.

development restaurants for Condé Nast International Restaurants.

Bow ties loosened and shirts untucked, guests filtered to celebrate the

Charles Banks, co-founder of thefoodpeople, discussed the

close of a successful event while winners faced the happy problem of how

movements driving global F&B, from the popularity of street food to

to squeeze a commanding slab of glass into the next day’s hand luggage.

the importance of open kitchens. “Getting up and close and personal with the chefs cooking your food allows for trust, transparency and a story to unfold around the dining experience,” he said.

www.restaurant-invest.com

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SIDES

Hotelympia 2016 29th February – 3rd March, London

Oliver Heath onstage at Hotelympia 2016

T

he UK’s largest foodservice and hospitality event, Hotelympia 2016

environments.’ Afroditi Krassa presented her perspectives on design and

welcomed 26,000 attendees over four days, a 15% surge in visitor

offered insight into her collaborations with the likes of Hilton and Emaar.

numbers.

“I’m only interested in working with clients who want to do something

With almost 1,000 innovative food and drink, technology, catering

new,” she said. “The market is saturated and if there isn’t the desire to

equipment, interiors and waste management companies set across the

deliver an idea in a way that hasn’t been seen before then it won’t succeed.”

show’s 300,000 ft2, it continued to provide a platform to showcase the

latest innovations and products for the hotel F&B industry.

Over the course of the event The Staff Canteen Live – Skillery, delivered demos from some of the industry’s top names, including Tom Kerridge,

World renowned chef and restaurateur Jason Atherton headlined the

Clare Smyth, Simon Rogan, Graham Garrett, Claude Bosi, Nathan Outlaw

Hotelympia Food Service 2020 Conference discussing his growing number

and Angela Hartnett. Elsewhere Anton Mosimann OBE, was inaugurated

of sites in a talk entitled ‘re-imagining global for local’. In it he addressed

into the Hotelympia Hall of Fame in front of an approving audience.

the inspiring nature of translating ideas for an international audience and

Bombay Brasserie took Hotelympia’s Best Restaurant Design Award,

discussed his signature venues, including hotel restaurants in Sydney,

leaving Fera at Claridge’s and German Gymnasium as close runners up.

Dubai and Shanghai.

Founded in 1982 and part of Taj 51 Buckingham Gate Hotel, it remains one

On the main stage industry experts addressed a variety of topical issues,

of London’s most enduring Indian restaurants.

from crowdfunding to Biophilic design, with interior designer Oliver Heath discussing his passion for creating ‘healthier and happier built

134

www.hotelympia.com

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PETITS FOURS

Olea Kempinski Mall of the Emirates, Dubai Tricon Foodservice Consultants

Opened in November 2015, Olea at Kempinski Mall of the Emirates, Dubai specialises in authentic Levantine cuisine and traditional cooking methods.

It is one of five F&B venues at the hotel and mixes classic Arabian style with a contemporary sensibility.

Most signature to Olea’s design and operations is the bold central show kitchen developed by Tricon Foodservice Consultants. Tasked with approaching concepts from a practical and comprehensive point of view, Tricon specialises in F&B design that optimises revenue generating potential – be it through space planning of functional areas or ensuring operations that are seamless and considered. The company has applied these services to numerous hotel F&B projects, working with the likes of Mondrian at Sea Containers London, W Doha and the Hyatt Capital Gate Tower in Abu Dhabi.

With Olea, the brief was deceptively simple: create and achieve a showpiece display kitchen as a focal point within the new restaurant concept. Tricon was engaged by the hotel’s architect Aukett Swanke and owners and developers Majid Al Futtaim, one of the region’s foremost holding companies.

The Tricon team, headed up by Robert Plumb,

136

design director, carried out extensive research into Levantine cuisine and cooking methods, known in Arabic as the Bilad al-Sham or Land of the North, which is the ‘true’ traditional cuisine found in the Levant region. In doing so they gleaned a distinct insight into the working spaces that would be required. Ultimately one of the key challenges was to create a bespoke dining experience within the restaurant, yet be aware that up to 300 hotel guests would require breakfast service in the same environment.

A serving counter that stretches the length of the kitchen was developed as one solution – providing space for mass catering but also creating a barrier between the dining area and the kitchen, whilst leaving it visually unobstructed.

In creating a standalone dining destination, in a space previously reserved for all day dining, Tricon also developed a bar and beverage serving area that functions as a self-service space during breakfast and a waiter station during lunch and dinner. ww.tricon.co.uk

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PETITS FOURS

Breakfast at Thon Craster

With hotels across Norway, Belgium and the Netherlands, the Osloheadquartered Thon Hotels identified a need to improve, refresh and elevate their breakfast concept – seeking to add new ideas to a hotel staple.

They called upon fellow Norwegians 2080.no - a unique supplier of kitchen and serving equipment – who in turn enlisted two key industry influencers; esteemed Norwegian Chef Odd Ivar Solvold and Craster, a London based provider of luxury products for hotels and restaurants globally.

Chef Solvold, a restaurateur and author of several cookbooks, was the recipient of the Bocuse d’Or bronze medal in 1997 and has since gone on to mentor many of the subsequent winners.

2080.no, Chef Solvold and Craster came together to brainstorm designs for an innovative selection of new display concepts that could be rolled out across the Thon brand. The solution was the dynamic FLOW range which, based on a completely modular system, enables chefs to create a unique layout at different times throughout the day – providing complete flexibility in any all day dining concept. The collection afforded Thon the ability to serve delicious breakfasts, beautifully presented, expertly served and stored in the back of house seamlessly. www.2080.no www.craster.com

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PETITS FOURS

Red or White Nude

Grain

Bonna Turkish label Bonna continues its mission to provide ‘warmth and elegance’ to the HORECA industry with a contemporary range of hand-painted tableware.

With translucent bodies and brilliant glazes, pieces from the Grain collection embody a rustic, artisanal feel and combine the traditions of porcelain with practicality and durability.

From serving bowls to a diverse tea service, the collection features the same edge-chip warranty and strength as the ivory white series.

Created by renowned industrial designer Ron Arad, Nude’s Red or White collection reflects the brand’s ethos that ‘simple is beautiful’. Believing that design is not about embellishment or style but about purity of idea and shape, Red or White features understated forms.

It is the culmination of three years of development and features a handmade crystal decanter, carafes and glasses for red, white or sparkling varieties.

In the UK and Ireland the collection is available exclusively via Utopia Tableware. www.nudeglass.com

www.hotel.bonna.com.tr

Sourdough Crispbread

Dune

A Swedish staple, crispbread, or ‘knäckebröd’, has been baked since 500AD and is now a favourite throughout the Nordic countries.

Peter’s Yard provide a selection of traditional varieties, from sourdough – made with milk, spelt and rye flours, sourdough, honey and linseed – to options featuring fig, whole spices and healthy seeds.

A limited edition serving stand is available, featuring an oak board, stainless steel handle and treated with food oil.

Made with ultra-light aluminium, the Dune collection is designed by Hong Kong-based Italian designer Andrea Ponti. With a durable anodised finish, it draws its name from the sweeping silhouette of the cutlery, the transition from straight to curve reflecting undulating sands.

A ‘personal flatware set’, it features freestanding packaging that serves either as a storage device or for display, drawing the connection between food and design.

www.petersyard.com

www.andreaponti.com

Peter’s Yard

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Ponti

PETITS FOURS

Professional Glassware Selection Villeroy & Boch

In the fast-paced hotel and gastronomy industries, where efficiency matters most, complex assortments and difficult to comprehend concepts have no place. That’s why Villeroy & Boch have launched an easy to understand drinking glass concept that consists of four collections designed to encompass a variety of requirements and uses.

With the intention of making Villeroy & Boch’s glassware offer simple to understand for the on-trade market, the Professional Glassware Selection is broken down into clear price categories and market segments, from premium to simple pieces for high-volume use.

La Divina is described as the ‘character glass’, ideal for wines and sparkling varieties, whilst Maxima features generous goblets in a classic design. Purismo consists of glasses in four modules for the most frequent drinks – from water to beer – and Entrée features accentuated but unfussy glasses ideal for banqueting. www.villeroy-boch.com/hotel

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PETITS FOURS

Studio Prints

Partum

Inspired by Churchill’s archive Homespun collection, Studio Prints features an underglaze printed design with a hand-applied edge band.

The series is available in two colourways, charcoal black and stone grey, and features a motif reminiscent of home-crafted pottery.

Despite its traditional origins, Studio Prints is intended to reflect the latest food trends and provide a canvas to showcase ingredients – the circular patterning drawing the eye to the plates’ contents.

Featuring long, thin stems, Partum from Hepp is designed to provide a striking counterpoint to larger porcelain tableware.

With gently curving handles and distinctive proportions, the collection ‘charms the hand’ and is fashioned with comfort and ease-of-use in mind.

Subtle faceting along the centreline combines with a polished finish to reflect light and add drama to a professional tabletop.

The collection is available in easy to care for 18/10 stainless steel or with a silver-plated finish.

Churchill

Hepp

www.churchillchina.com www.hepp.de

Table Mat Circle

TAC Palazzo

Founded by sisters Mie and Bine Lind, Danish brand LIND DNA is local in craftsmanship and materials but international in appeal.

Showcasing modern Scandinavian design, LIND DNA’s table mats are made from durable and water-repellent recycled leather and feature an understated aesthetic.

Available in an assortment of sizes, shapes and colours, the unobtrusive design of the mats is envisioned as a canvas for more expressive tableware, affording versatility in an evolving restaurant environment.

With a vivid, geometric cut, the linear drinking glass series TAC 2016 nods to the traditions of cut crystal but reimagines the technique in contemporary pieces. The clear glass is embellished with a precise wedge cut and reflects the structure of the new TAC design Palazzo RORO with its tapered, crisscrossing lines. The collection includes white and red wine glasses as well as champagne, water and whisky glasses.

LIND DNA

www.linddna.com

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Rosenthal

www.rosenthal.de

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PETITS FOURS

Urban Collection

Chef Works

Inspired by the dynamism and energy of the street food scene, Chef Works’ Urban Collection provides an opportunity for hotel staff to look current whilst working comfortably throughout the kitchen, bar, dining room and beyond.

From street-inspired stripes to new twists on denim, the collection’s design is based on robust textures, fabrics and colours that are modern yet subtle enough to complement a variety of professional F&B environments.

“The design of a restaurant interior, the flatware and the uniforms are almost as important as the food served,” says Chef Works’, Emma Cohen. www.chefworks.co.uk

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At Ian Macleod Distillers, we take pride in what we do. To us, that’s just part and parcel of being an independent family-owned business, committed to excellence for over 80 years. The result?

An award-winning range of premium spirits, produced here in Scotland and enjoyed by drinkers across the UK and beyond.

Be part of that global success story today.

For more information on purchasing or stocking brands from our range: Call +44 1506 852205

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PETITS FOURS

5 Decades, 5 Materials LSA

Celebrating five decades of creativity and craftsmanship, LSA pays homage to the five key materials that have informed the brand’s aesthetic. Utilising glass, porcelain, wood, leather and enamelled steel, the collection draws from the archives while introducing new innovations.

Simple, utilitarian forms in mixed materials offer a variety of purpose, from food containers that also function as decorative flower holders, to vases designed to be stacked in a combination of ways.

Typical of LSA, bold colour is combined with white and neutrals. Orange, navy and deep green provide distinctive tabletop accents, while the Celebrate & Host series features uplifting elements of gold and silver on champagne glasses and serving bowls featuring the LSA anniversary logo. www.lsa-international.com

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PETITS FOURS

Sensory Textured Spoons

Buffet Dispensers

Believing that shape and texture can affect the way in which diner’s enjoy food, Studio William has devised a series of spoons to stimulate the palate.

Featuring a selection of inbuilt textures, the spoons are best showcased with fine dining and tasting menus, providing another dimension to an elevated food experience.

Since launch, the range has been the recipient of several international awards including a German Design Award.

Made with 18/10 stainless steel, Tiger Hotel’s dispensers are a refined addition to buffet arrangements. Providing adaptable, multipurpose solutions to both large and small scale catering, the low-key design combines easily with existing setups or with further pieces from Tiger Hotel’s collection.

With a focus on visual appeal as well practicality, versatility and durability, Tiger Hotel has been exporting internationally since 1996 and collaborates with Italian designers to create its pieces.

www.studiowilliam.com

www.tigerhotel.kr

Triomphe

Reef

A 20-piece collection, Triomphe infuses modern spirit into WMF’s traditional Augsburger Faden pattern. The reinterpreted design keeps the forms of the classical period, but dispenses with the older, more superfluous elements.

The collection is available in a classic hollow-shank version, with specialists from hotel and catering also able to opt for a monobloc alternative.

All pieces are offered in either high-gloss polished 18/10 stainless steel or with a silver-plate finish.

Reef from Zieher features a distinctive underwater inspiration with twisting metal strands evocatively bending to form serving baskets and decorative arrangements.

Many individual parts are assembled by hand, with external textures varying across the series, some smoothly rounded while others are roughly structured with dark, patinated hollows.

Despite the eye-catching design, the collection is designed to work across multiple hotel spaces, from carrying fruit in a guestroom to bread at a breakfast buffet.

Studio William

WMF

www.wmf.com

Tiger Hotel

Zieher

www.zieher.com

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W E M Y S S PR E SE N T I NG A N AWA R D -W I N N I NG R A NGE OF SCOTCH W H ISK Y A N D GI N FROM T H E W E M YS S FA M I LY, R E NOW N E D V I N T N E R S A N D SPI R I T S M E RCH A N TS

FOR MOR E I N FOR M AT ION ON W E M YS S M A LT S A N D DA R N L EY ’ S V I EW GI N PL E A SE V ISI T OU R W E B SI T E S W W W.W E M YS SM A LT S .COM / W W W.DA R N L EYSV I EWGI N.COM

HOTEL & RESTAURANT BUSINESS PLACE 06-10 November 2016 / Paris / France

1,600 exhibitors (37 countries) / 30 activity sectors / 111,000 profesionals (133 countries)

Get your free access badge on www.equiphotel.com CODE IUK01 From July 2016 In partnership with Organised by

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EquipHotel Office / Promosalons UK elise@promosalons.co.uk / Tel. (020) 8216 3104

07/04/2016 11:23

PETITS FOURS

Wild Strawberry Afternoon Tea

Wedgwood and Heritage Collection Wedgwood have teamed up with Heritage to produce an afternoon tea collection, using the classic Wild Strawberry design in conjunction with Helix silverware from Heritage.

One of Wedgwood’s most popular designs, Wild Strawberry conveys a whimsical aesthetic, drawing inspiration from English country gardens and the quaint rolling countryside.

Continuing a longstanding relationship, Heritage lends its skill with silverware to the afternoon tea collection. The silver-plated Helix pieces – including the tea stand and teapot – are polished to a mirror finish.

Both Wedgwood and Heritage work extensively with the premium hotel market, providing tea services to the likes of The Ritz London and The Dorchester. www.wedgwood.co.uk www.heritagesilverware.com

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PETITS FOURS

Dinner Plate

mud australia Handmade in the company’s Sydney factory, each mud australia piece is fashioned from porcelain sourced in Limoges, combining craftsmanship with functionality and an artisan finish.

Designed by Australian ceramicist Shelley Simpson, the brand’s minimalist aesthetic and contemporary attitude have seen it garner international popularity, present at Hotel Hotel in Canberra and Crosby Street Hotel in New York.

Evolving seasonally with the addition of new shapes and colours, the range now includes a tea service and ovenproof, dishwasher safe cookware. www.mudaustralia.com

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Perfectly Shaken and Served Sparkling since 1936, Orangina is a delicious blend of citrus juices and orange zest, with real orange juice. Now available with

Produced under the authority of Schweppes Intl. Ltd. Orangina and the Orangina logo are registered trademarks of Schweppes International Ltd.

incredible drink recipes developed by the besT mixologists in THE UK.

Get in touch to join the club of Orangina Stockists: 08702 408601

PETITS FOURS

Arita X Nobu Arita Plus

Marking the 400th anniversary of Japanese Arita porcelain, Arita Plus – a group of craftsmen from the region - have collaborated with celebrated chef Nobu Matsuhisa on a collection of nine distinctive pieces.

Drawing inspiration from the Japanese flag, the collection features signature red circles, evoking the rising sun for which the nation is nicknamed.

Including plates, sushi roll holder, sake set and a matcha bowl, the collection is designed to demonstrate the versatility of Arita and the capabilities of Arita Plus to work on bespoke lines with F&B professionals, such as Matsuhisa, co-owner of the Nobu international chain of restaurants, a mainstay of hotel F&B from Four Seasons Doha to InterContinental Hong Kong. www.arita-plus.com

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N O V E LT I E S

2 0 1 6 GERMANY

W W W. Z I E H E R . C O M “Capiz“

“Fakir“

VISION

ZIEHER NEWS 09/2015

“Reef“

”You have never seen wine like this!“

Silvio Nitzsche WEIN | KULTUR | BAR, Dresden

The VISION: No distinction is made between red wine or white wine glasses in the VISION collection by Zieher: the glasses are simply theme-based or characterbased.

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The names of the glasses clearly explain what they are used for: You intuitively reach for the glass which presents the flavours of the wine that you particularly wish to emphasise in the best way.

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INTENSE

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THE VIDEO

www.zieher.com/en/products/vision.html

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18.03.16 14:46

Why Choose Avenista?

Avenista is the must-have tool for Busy Restaurants still struggling with pen and paper.

It is also the solution most favoured by restaurants needing an alternative when existing providers prove slow, expensive or ineffective.

You built a great restaurant by insisting on quality, attention to detail and customer service. Now choose Avenista to ensure you get the same from your Reservations Partner.

+44 1925 750 100 avenista.com sales@avenista.com

PETITS FOURS

Cobra

Sublime

Designed by famed German designer Constantin Wortmann, Cobra features organic shapes and a refined sculptural elegance. The folds and waves of the plates create movement on the table and now, with the addition of multifunctional bowls and dishes, a full look can be created with these complementary forms.

The bowls and plates can be used for multiple purposes as the two designs fit seamlessly together, the serving dish functioning as a lid for the small bowl.

Made with Luigi Bormioli’s SON.hyx formula, the Sublime collection features a break-resistant, ultra-clear glass that will remain perfectly transparent even after 4,000 dishwashing cycles.

With a subtle design mixing angular straight lines with understated curves, the collection is made in Italy and intended to be casual enough for everyday use but bold enough for more daring table arrangements.

Luigi Bormioli rivals fine crystal in appearance and elegance but is lead free.

www.georgjensen.com

www.luigibormioli.com

Serving Set

Ayam

The Good Design-awarded Magisso serving set consists of three fluid tableware pieces: a pie server, cheese knife and cheese slicer.

From young Finnish designer Maria Kivijärvi, the series is made from stainless steel and designed to stand sideways, thus avoiding tarnished tablecloths and serving boards.

Magisso specialises in providing simple, creative solutions to common tableware issues and is available in the UK through Continental Chef Supplies.

A signature piece for the company’s 260th year, the Ayam decanter is named after - and gains it’s distinctive silhouette from - the world’s most exclusive breed of hen.

With the ability to ‘double decante’, the Ayam can aerate wine twice as quickly as a traditional decanter and is designed with the potential to hang from the table as a practical space saving option, and also as a bold flourish to table dressing.

Georg Jensen

Magisso

Luigi Bormioli

Riedel

www.riedel.com www.magisso.com

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Silestone Authentic Life 速

KITCHEN & BATHROOM WORKTOPS

Day-to-day life shapes our emotions Only you have the key to decide how to live your own authentic life and to be passionate about everything you do.

Silestone lets you confi gure your daily spaces in the way that you want thanks to its wide variety of colours and textures.

Its the original quartz with a 25 year warranty.

SILESTONE AUTHENTIC LIFE

!"#$%"&'!"#$%&!"#$%&'!()*#!+#,-#+ ()*$''()*+&'),-."* 25 Year Warranty - Bacteriostatic Protection Available in some colours High resistance to Scratches - High resistance to Stains

COSENTINO UK- CENTRAL OFFICES AND LONDON CENTRE Unit 10 Bartley Point/ Osborn Way/ Hook/ Hampshire RG27 9GX/ HQ: info.uk@cosentino.com F cosentinouk.ie T CosentinoUK

PETITS FOURS

Radford Cutlery Robert Welch With a modern, classic aesthetic designed to complement a range of table settings, Radford (satin or bright) features an extensive array of specialist pieces including sauce spoons, fruit knives, oyster forks, pastry forks and lobster picks.

Made from high quality 18/10 stainless steel, the series features specially hardened stainless steel knives for maintaining an excellent cutting edge and for assured resilience over repeated use.

Fully dishwasher safe and durable in the hospitality environment, Radford exemplifies Robert Welch’s ethos of producing design-led, timeless collections that combine function with form. www.robertwelch.com

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TAKING THE GUESSWORK OUT OF MAKING GREAT ESPRESSO! PREMIUM QUALITY COFFEE - BIODEGRADABLE PODS - FULLY RECYCLABLE PACKAGING. Rombouts espresso pods are vacuum packed for freshness, the correct weight, grind size and perfectly tamped for a great espresso each and every time. We offer a full range of coffee equipment to support your business; from high-volume traditional style espresso machines to push button ‘Pod-to-Cup’ systems and compact meeting room & bedroom machines, ensuring consistency throughout your establishment.

WWW.ROMBOUTS.CO.UK/PROFESSIONAL

Rombouts Coffee GB Ltd. Manhattan House, 140 High Street, Crowthorne, RG45 7AY - T: 0845 604 0188 - E: info.uk@rombouts.com

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PETITS FOURS

Celebrate LSA

Part of LSA’s 50th anniversary celebrations, the aptly titled Celebrate collection embodies the party spirit with champagne glasses, cocktail glasses and champagne buckets.

Each piece is packaged with LSA’s signature 5 Zero cocktail recipe, developed exclusively for the brand’s birthday.

With tall hand-drawn stems and luxurious metal accents or with handpainted mother of pearl finishes, the glasses match the limited-quantity Host series of bowls for a complete celebration tabletop.

Byzance

Raynaud Opulent and ornate, the Byzance plate reflects Raynaud’s extravagant style and blends gold patterning with deep navy and a crisp white serving space.

The history of Raynaud can be traced back to the 19th century, when coloured and gilded designs were applied to delicate Limoges porcelain – which remains a hallmark of the company to this day.

With pieces handmade in France, Raynaud is the only remaining of the original Limoges houses.

www.lsa-international.com

www.raynaud.fr

Oscillate

Mad Men

Taking inspiration from architectural detail, mechanics and the atomic attractions that bind materials together, Royal Crown Derby has produced a pattern that delights with its texture and suggestion of movement.

The collection features a tactile surface mesh design and is hand finished in 22-carat gold.

Offered in Ochre Yellow and Onyx Black, the geometric motif complements the modern coupe shape of the tableware it adorns, allowing for precise matching or a playful mix of the two colourways.

Neither subtle or inconspicuous, the Mad Men collection from Waterford is, as the name suggests, a celebration of the popular period television show.

Bands of rich gold and platinum are as wide as Don Draper’s lapels and the deep cutting and heft of each piece of crystal conveys a complexity worthy of the now complete drama series.

As well as tumblers, the collection features gold patterned highball glasses, crystal decanter and mixology pitcher.

www.royalcrownderby.co.uk

www.waterford.co.uk

Royal Crown Derby

Waterford

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PETITS FOURS

Smoked Salmon

Hansen & Lydersen From Chiltern Firehouse and Le Meurice Paris, to Roux at the Landau and Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, Hansen & Lydersen has established itself as a premium supplier of smoked salmon to leading hotel F&B destinations.

Sourced from a sustainable farm in the ‘extreme wilderness’ between the Norwegian Sea and the North Atlantic, each salmon is prepared less than 48 hours from when it is fished and is subsequently hand-filleted and hand-salted according to a family recipe, devised by Norwegian fishmonger Lyder-Nilsen Lydersen in 1923.

Firmly a family business, the company is currently headed by Ole Hansen, great-grandson of Lydersen - who developed the juniper and beech wood smoking recipe still used today. It’s this commitment to Nordic tradition that sees the company proclaim ‘we do not believe in paper thin slicing’, instead cutting the fish vertically in thick slices as is the Norwegian style.

‘Made to order’ from a smokehouse in North London, the salmon is never frozen, vacuum-packed or wrapped in plastic.

While these techniques may artificially prolong the shelf life of salmon, once opened it expires rapidly. But by avoiding these practices Hansen & Lydersen’s salmon can last for around 10 days simply refrigerated and wrapped in paper. www.hansen-lydersen.com

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ADVERTISING INDEX

41 Madison Armand De Brignac

012 & 013

Martell Cognac Martini Riserva Speciale

006 & 007 077

Avenista 158

Mumm

Bimber Distillery

107

Oneida 045

Black Isle Brewing Company

115

Orangina 155

Bodegas Marques de Caceres

069

014 & 015

Robert Welch

004

Bonna 063

Rombouts Coffee

162

Boodles Gin

Ron Barcelo

145 020

010 & 011

Burleighs Gin

105

Simon Jersey

Chef Works

091

Sipsmith 022

Cocktail Kingdom

167

Speyside Glenlivet

Continental Chef Supplies

099

St Hugo KV

073 008 & 009

Cosentino 160

The Menu Shop

164

Courvoisier

Tiger Company

061

Disaronno 054

To The Table Asia

141

Elektra Coffee Machines

To The Table MEA

148

EquipHotel 152

VEEN Waters

029

Frobishers 103

Villeroy & Boch

057

HEPP 025

Volga Linen

026

Hildon

Warner Edwards Gin

169

HX

016 & 017

138

018 & 019 111

Wedgwood 172

Ian Macleod Distillers

147

Wemyss Malts

Ikon Furniture

143

WMF 059

Ingrid Lesage Creations

095

Zieher 157

Jim Beam

166

135

137

151

PRO FE SSIO N A L BA RWA R E www.CocktailKingdom.com

THE WASHING UP

Issue 2 of Supper has seen us capitalise on our pool of international contributors to bring an increasingly global perspective on the projects and concepts driving the industry. For this issue that also led us to Amsterdam, where our centrefold was shot.

As well a literal take on the F&B offering at Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol, Studio Appétit adopted a conceptual approach with images intended to invoke the Dutch inspiration that pervades the hotel’s restaurant and bar spaces.

Featuring classic regional novelties, such as models of windmills, clogs and bicycles, the concept images fuse items from the hotel’s menu with a bold aesthetic element intended to inspire.

Ido Garini, owner and creative director of Studio Appétit, produced a series of custom confections specifically for the spread, taking traditional culinary elements associated with Amsterdam and reimagining them as novel, theatrical delicacies. The tableware on display is a mix of pieces from the hotel’s collection and more avant-garde items, including diamond presentation plates from Studio Appétit and presentation dishes developed as a collaboration between the studio and product designer Hilla Shamia.

Creative collaboration is central to the hotel F&B industry and at Supper we will continue to seek opportunities to work with other disciplines to bring new projects to life.

I’d like to thank all of those involved in our second issue and, as always, we appreciate your feedback. Should you have any questions or suggestions feel free to drop me an email at h.mckinley@mondiale.co.uk. Until our next Supper.

Harry McKinley | Editor

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WARNER EDWARDS DISTILLERY Falls Farm, Harrington, Northamptonshire, NN6 9NU t: +44 (0)1536 710623 e: info@warneredwards.com w: www.warneredwards.com

T h e H O S P I T A L I T Y C oll e ctio n

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