ISSUE 2 ISSUE 2 WWW.SUPPERMAGAZINE.CO.UK
Tony Conigliaro
The award-winning bartender on service, storytelling and simplicity
AvroKO
A design and concept firm with a difference, we speak to the four founders
Loh Lik Peng
From Singapore to Sydney, making the list with the founder of Unlisted Collection
CONTENTS
Setting Entrée
SPECIALS 023
Raising the Bar
SPREAD
Starters Pulitzer’s Bar
Into the Unexpected 055
based centrefold. We chart a multi-sensory
The Pulitzer, Amsterdam Appetizers
027
Firebird Diner
Trends and concepts impacting the world of
Four Seasons DIFC, Dubai
global hotel F&B
The Bank Brasserie & Bar
083
Supper goes Dutch with our Amsterdam
056
F&B journey with Studio Appétit and Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol
058
Park Hyatt, Vienna ilLido at the Cliff
060
Sofitel Singapore Sentosa Artizen
SERVICE
The Camby, Phoenix Stock Burger Co.
064
032 Main Course
on service, storytelling and working on a
Automata
shoestring
The Old Clare Hotel, Sydney Krèsios 036
Mare Nostrum 066
Jams
discusses the importance of F&B to his
1 Hotel Central Park, NYC
business and why he always follows his gut
La Maison 1888
The VirGIN 070
The Dylan, Amsterdam
074
Drinks The St. Regis Bar
078
InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula 040
Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol
The four founders of AvroKO on why
Amsterdam
owning their own restaurants gives them a
La Grande Table Marocaine
unique perspective on design
The Royal Mansour, Marrakech Le George
Nordic Now
046
080 092
108
St. Regis Dubai Experience Distilled
112
A Rum Resurgence
116
The Art of Balance
120
Punch on the Road
124
Diageo’s One and Only
126
Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris
SIDES
Desserts Hotel Cafe Royal, London
Members Only
106
096
Magnus Nilsson explains why Nordic cuisine probably isn’t what you think
104
Sun Gardens, Dubrovnik
Mercer, Barcelona
Founder of Unlisted Collection Loh Lik Peng
Tried and Tested
102
Crosby Street Hotel, NYC
Award-winning bartender Tony Conigliaro
On the List
Cocktails White Linen
Holiday Inn, Brighton A Factory Man
SIPPING
062
100
050
Brian Clivaz on the rise of the private
GRIF 16
132
members club and why exclusivity is still
Hotelympia
134
key
Petit Fours
136
005
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Setting
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ENTRée
Raising the Bar
F
or this issue I travelled to the recently opened Hilton
best new hotel bars, it’s one of Amsterdam’s best new
Amsterdam Airport Schiphol. Amidst the humdrum
bars, period. Hot on its heels is Bar Brasserie OCCO at The
buildings and typical airport fare it sits, a beast of a
Dylan, where classic cocktails are served with a twist and
structure with design and service at its heart. As well
where the bar even produces its own non-alcoholic gin.
as sampling the hotel, it formed the location of our bold
At the other end of the spectrum, the newly opened Generator
centrefold spread, a collaboration with Netherlands-based
in Amsterdam’s up-and-coming eastern side proves that even
F&B concept agency Studio Appétit.
the humble hostel is no longer so humble. Its bar, Nescio, is a
The concept of the shoot knowingly aligns with the
former lecture hall where classroom-style seating flanks the
destination’s ethos of ‘expecting the unexpected’, and for
serving area and a mezzanine chill out space provides room
Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol this means a move
for guests to relax with a beer or cocktail from day to evening.
away from the mediocre associations of airport hotels
What we see in Amsterdam, not even one of Europe’s top
and the delivery of a complex and well-conceived concept
20 most populous cities, is indicative of a level of quality and
that delivers style and service in equal measure. It got me
originality being seen in hotel F&B globally – some of which
thinking however: as guests demand more, are presented with
we’ve tapped in these pages. Our team of contributors headed
increasingly innovative options and as hotel F&B evolves to
to the likes of Automata at The Old Clare Sydney and Krèsios at
become a driver of the hospitality industry at large, is the
the Mercer Barcelona, while in our Starters section we looked
unexpected really just a matter of growing expectations?
to Brighton, where Holiday Inn is recognising the importance
Amsterdam is in many ways a perfect example of how
of creative F&B options in its elevated burger bar concept,
hotels are progressively raising the bar in their F&B offer
Stock Burger Co. These are just a few of the examples of
and delivering guests a benchmark of choice that rises ever
international hotel F&B destinations that are either ensuring
higher. When Waldorf Astoria opened in the city in 2014 it
the modern guest develops elevated standards, or are rising
quickly had plenty of superlatives thrown its way. Set in a
to meet them.
series of interconnected 17th century canal-side palaces it
During my interview with the four founders of AvroKO,
features a two Michelin star restaurant from executive chef
William Harris exclaimed, not missing a beat, “I think F&B is
Sidney Schutte, a brasserie, glamorous bar and a local take
driving practically every commercial endeavour at this point.”
on Waldorf Astoria’s signature Peacock Alley.
It’s a point of some debate, but it’s certainly true that F&B is
The Pulitzer, a hip boutique in an affluent neighbourhood,
now more a part of our lives than ever before. So with the bar
has seen its bar become of the hottest spots in the city. Pulling
raised so high, choices so plentiful and innovation becoming
together dramatic interior design from Jacu Strauss and an
the norm, perhaps the unexpected is exactly what’s expected,
inventive cocktail menu, it’s not just one of Amsterdam’s
if not demanded.
Harry McKinley | Editor
023
THE BRIGADE
Editorial
Advertising
Finance
Editor-in-Chief
Advertising Manager
Finance Director
Matt Turner
Rachel Chadwick
Amanda Giles
m.turner@mondiale.co.uk
r.chadwick@mondiale.co.uk
a.giles@mondiale.co.uk
Editor Harry McKinley
Marketing
h.mckinley@mondiale.co.uk
Contributors
Adrian Moore Chris Fynes
Group Credit Controller Lynette Levi l.levi@mondiale.co.uk
Brand Director
Group Financial Controller
Amy Wright
Sarah Miller
a.wright@mondiale.co.uk
s.miller@mondiale.co.uk
Design
Dan F. Stapleton
Accounts Assistant Kerry Mountney k.mountney@mondiale.co.uk
Dom Roskrow Lauren Ho Nina Caplan
Design
Renate Ruge
David Bell
S. Milioti
d.bell@mondiale.co.uk
Photographers
Corporate
Production
Chairman
Dan Seaton
Damian Walsh
d.seaton@mondiale.co.uk
d.walsh@mondiale.co.uk
Addie Chinn Eric Laignel Erik Olsson Garrett Rowland
Website designed and developed by
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APPETISERS
Tripping the Food Van-tastic
What is hotel F&B when it’s not in a hotel? It might
wandering food truck. Although mainly in situ at Town Square
seem like a Trivial Pursuit question, but from pop-
– where a 160-room Vida hotel is slated to open – it’s also
ups to burger vans and even market stalls, hotels are
available for boutique catering for up to 50 people. They’ll even
taking F&B beyond their own four walls in concepts
bring the picnic tables and beach chairs.
designed to strengthen the brand and tap new audiences.
The experience of sidling up to a bench in a public space, burger or coffee in hand, may not align with traditional
Long before 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin had welcomed its first
notions of hotel dining but that’s arguably the point. Vida
staying guest, its arrival was heralded with the appearance of
describes its food truck as reflective of a ‘carefree and laidback
Burger de Ville. A gleaming Airstream burger van, it served up
lifestyle’ and, at a time when more and more guests are
classic Americana and gained such popularity that after the
shunning formality in favour of frivolity, it says something
hotel’s opening it took up a more permanent spot on the terraces.
about the person they’ll shortly be aiming to attract - not just
At 25hours Vienna, another Burger de Ville complements the
for caffeine and fries, but as a paid-up overnighter at Vida
hotel’s traditional offer, forming part of an outdoor ‘burger
Town Square Dubai.
garden’ with space for 80 people, where guests and locals alike can eat, drink and be merry on the edge of Weghuberpark. In Dubai, where hotels complete with megamalls in enticing the hungry, Vida brought hotel F&B up a gear with its own
Flexible and cost effective, these concepts prove that whilst it’s difficult to take bricks and mortar to the customer, with wheels it’s a doddle. And after checking out what’s on offer on the move they may just check in to stay.
027
APPETISERS
Happy Drinking
One
a
than an espresso, The Focus features smoked wheat coffee beans,
happy guest but never has it been more defining
of
the
criteria
of
F&B
success
is
surely
Kamm & Sons and hazelnut syrup for alertness. Finally the Relax
than with the rise of mood enhancing mixology.
blends ingredients like chamomile, lavender extract, lemon, cardamom and Tanqueray.
028
In food, the idea of menus conceived with mood in mind isn’t
Described as the British capital’s ‘first mood menu’, it may
entirely new of course. The Serotonin Eatery in Melbourne has
be seen by some as pure gimmick. After all, aren’t all alcoholic
built its menu around foods that regulate neurotransmitters and
cocktails mood enhancing in some form or another? But the
hormone activity in the body. The aim? Not just healthier guests
venue insists the science stacks up and that the beneficial nature
but demonstrably happier ones.
of serotonin is not to be dismissed.
Drawing inspirational from this emotion-centric approach,
When it comes to drinks innovation, hotel bars are often
Vincenzo Sibilia, bartender at Barts in London’s Chelsea, has
early adopters of course, and the creative applications for the
devised a three-cocktail collection to either boost the mind
sector seem clear. From cocktails riffing off the need for a good
or relax it, but all with the intention of improving happiness
night’s sleep to blends that reinvigorate the weary mind of a
levels. Featuring serotonin-rich ingredients, the Happiness
businessman or businesswoman on the go, mood mixology and
cocktail blends Belvedere vodka with strawberries, lemon, cherry
the hotel industry would seem to make for natural bedfellows.
tomatoes, maraschino cherries, sugar, basil leaves and black
If a happy guest is the goal, then perhaps the answer lies at the
pepper. For those who want something a little more enticing
bottom of a martini glass.
APPETISERS
Got your Goose
Ethical eating has gone from niche interest to placing
farming methods ensure that free-range geese roam wild,
firmly on the menu for many modern guests. Most hotel
without gavage (force feeding) and in line with their natural
brands now have a clear and well-promoted ethics and
migratory cycle. His approach is seen as harking back to the
sustainability story, but it does occasionally veer into
origins of foie gras, when farmers would guarantee geese were
problematic territory when it comes to fine dining.
well treated, secure in the knowledge that consumers would be rewarded with a quality product. The final result has been
Some might say that delicacies like veal and foie gras have a PR
Sousa himself is notably something of a character and it’s
bone of contention for more vocal ethical eaters. That being
fair to say that his geese enjoy a quality of life far removed from
said, try convincing a formidable French chef to reconsider
the norm of farming. His farm is part of the Spanish dehesa,
the menu.
the home of ibérico ham, and it is here that his geese wander
Setting aside subjective notions of right and wrong, as an image issue it’s something that hotel restaurants are proving increasingly cognisant of.
030
dubbed by some ‘freedom foie gras.’
problem. They continue to divide diners and provide an endless
the land, eating at will behind fences that aren’t electrified from the inside. He doesn’t want them to feel ‘manipulated’. For Nai Harn, opting for a more ethical option isn’t simply
One destination with a balanced solution is The Nai Harn,
a matter of catering to a discerning guest but about taking
Phuket, that aims to ensure guests can enjoy foie gras, guilt
steps to promote more sustainable practices within luxury
free. Sourced from Spanish producer Eduardo Sousa, his
hospitality as a whole.
SERVICE
“They realised that there was an exciting new kind of bartender and a new wave of bartending that could bring more attention to the hotel than the rooms or the chefs could.” Tony Conigliaro on the hotel industry’s embracing of mixology.
SERVICE
A Factory Man Award-winning bartender Tony Conigliaro on storytelling, service and why working on a shoestring is the mother of invention...just don’t mention the ‘m’ word.
Words: Harry McKinley
I
f chefs are the new rock stars, then in bartenders there’s
But before we delve into his work and his creative success,
something eminently more disruptive, subversive even.
let’s clear one thing up: Tony Conigliaro is not a ‘molecular
They’re perhaps more punk than rock.
mixologist’. Although he’s distanced himself from the term
With his restrained demeanour and measured tone, it’s
cube – sliding back into his vicinity however much he bats
but nonetheless he embodies the wry confidence of a man
it away. It even takes lauded position in the opening line of
whose work is globally celebrated.
his Wikipedia page and in the introductions to numerous
Founder of Drink Factory – a collective of bartenders
features on his work. With its mention a practiced smile
‘pushing the boundaries of their respective crafts’ – he
crosses his face and we get the sense he’s resisting an
works from an East London laboratory, devising concepts
eye roll. Understandably. So how has molecular mixology
that often revolutionise how we think of mixology. His first
somehow become his signature? “Because it’s an easy
bar at 69 Colebrooke Row was opened in 2009 and quickly
term,” he explains. “Molecular doesn’t mean anything. It’s
garnered praise, including being named among the ‘World’s
a misnomer, as it was with molecular gastronomy. It’s just
50 Best Bars’ by Drinks International. In 2014 he opened
a way for people to pigeonhole something that is different
Bar Termini, an intimate coffee and aperitivo bar in Soho
from what came before. It’s not what we do. It implies
that seats just 25 and where traditional Italia meets modern
everything is scientific, when it’s not, it’s romantic and it’s
creativity.
about stories.”
It’s in the Zetter Townhouse Clerkenwell, however,
032
before, it continues to follow him around like a wayward ice
an analogy Tony Conigliaro would perhaps choose to shirk,
Even at midday on a Thursday the cocktail lounge flickers
that we meet. A 13-bedroom Georgian property, it’s noted
with activity – guests with newspapers are huddled over
as much for its cocktail lounge as for its idiosyncratic
cappuccinos and well-dressed arrivals shuffle through,
accommodations. Conigliaro collaborated with the
weekenders in hand. It’s a contrast to Friday and Saturday
Zetter Group on the concept, creating the menus both
evenings when the bar heaves with revellers, but it reflects
in Clerkenwell and at the hotel’s sister boutique, Zetter
an atmosphere carefully designed to feel more like a private
Townhouse Marylebone.
residence than a traditional hotel. “We created a fictional
SERVICE
character [Great Aunt Wilhelmina], who was a composite of
this bar boom is reverberating the world over. From
all of these eccentric artists, grandmothers or matriarchal
speakeasies to gastropubs, high concept cocktail bars to
figures in our family,” says Conigliaro. “It helped us to
spaces than specialise in a single spirit, it’s a crowded
create a story for the bar. At the beginning the designer
market populated by an increasingly savvy consumer.
[Russell Sage] would come around and make decisions
But even with bars as his business, standing out in a
based on this character. We would think about what she’s
competitive industry isn’t Conigliaro’s focus. “We don’t
drinking, where she’s travelling to and what she would like.
pay too much attention to what others are doing,” he says.
We fleshed out a story for her.”
“That’s said without arrogance. It’s just that our interests
This sense of narrative, fictitious though it may be,
are different and what we do is different, so we don’t copy
affords the lounge a life beyond typical design and adds
or consciously think too much about setting ourselves apart.
another dimension to a cocktail menu that is succinct
We’ll always try to break things down to our interests and
but varied. The Levante (Beefeater gin, saffron cordial,
do things differently.”
Amontillado sherry and paprika tincture) and the Köln
It’s this alternative approach and, perhaps, distance
Martini (Beefeater gin and dry Martini with homemade
from common tropes that may make Conigliaro such an
citrus aromatics) drop clues as to the history and voyages
interesting proposition for boutique hotels. Whilst he
of Wilhelmina, someone we imagine would be riotously
doesn’t feel “at all inhibited” when working with a hotel
good fun as a drinking companion. “Obviously that
he’s pragmatic on the issue of hotel F&B as a driver of the
continued with Zetter Marylebone and Uncle Seymour, who
wider bar industry. Even with the greater support it can
is her nephew,” continues Conigliaro. “It’s an enjoyable
sometimes afford bartenders seeking to bring a concept
way to work.”
to market, Conigliaro speaks ardently about the benefits
The notion of creating bars that veer from homogeny and
of stepping out without a safety net. “Even financial
have their own story to tell, or certainly their own dynamic,
restriction creates innovation,” he says. “We opened 69
is something that’s important to Conigliaro. “Ultimately
Colebrooke Row on a shoestring, but we became more
bars aren’t individuals, they’re about individuals coming
innovative because of that. If you land in the lap of luxury it can be less stimulating. I’m not saying that’s what happens
“You can serve everyone to the same standard but also serve them according to their needs.”
in most places, as in hotels you can also see the upscale of that creativity. Everyone always talks about the Artesian bar [at Langham London], for example. They realised that there was an exciting new kind of bartender and a new wave of bartending that could bring more attention to the
in and meeting other individuals,” he says. “So if you
hotel than the rooms or the chefs could.” As for who else is
don’t have individuals creating that space, you just have
doing it well, Conigliaro singles out Agostino ‘Ago’ Perrone,
something that is sterile. You need to have that connection
master mixologist at The Connaught, for praise.
and that isn’t something that can be copied and pasted.” Of course, when working with hotels, there’s a subtle uniformity that often needs to be applied to afford guests
oblivion, we dive into our standard talking point: the length
an understanding of the brand and allow them to develop a
of cocktail menus. When asked if they’re bewilderingly long
sense of relative familiarity. As with Great Aunt Wilhelmina
these days, Conigliaro is swift in his response. “Always,”
and Uncle Seymour, they operate as members of a family,
he says. “You only need 12 drinks and anything else is
whether they reside in East London or West. So how
overkill. We have always stuck to that rule and I think it’s
does one balance distinctiveness with consistency? For
an important one. There’s a precision. If you have 12 drinks,
Conigliaro it’s about training and service delivery. “You
everyone knows how to make those 12 drinks. If you have
can serve everyone to the same standard but also serve
50, that’s less likely and half those drinks will never get
them according to their needs. Beyond surroundings that
made. But importantly you can tell a story better, convey
will change, it’s a common quality of interaction and a
more about what you’re doing and it’s inevitably more
personalised touch. Otherwise it’s just a series of serving
accurate to what you want to say.”
actions as opposed to something that’s actually for the
Tony Conigliaro is not your typical showman. In person
guest,” he explains. “Also a commonality of training. Even
he’s controlled and unostentatious. Whilst he’s adamant that
if you have ten hotels, if you have ten teams that are good
he doesn’t have a signature mixology style, it’s a character
and that have been trained and educated well, then you’ll
that manifests itself in his work. He leaves the theatrics to
have ten good bars with a common thread.”
others and in a world of high-flying Boston shakers, dry ice
Like most major cities around the world London isn’t
034
As our conversation nears its end, and wanting to make an exit before Conigliaro’s long-waiting lunch wilts to
and eccentric serving vessels, he concentrates instead on
short of bars. Swing a bulldog and you’re likely to hit a
flavour profile, guest experience and – crucially - the art of
Starbucks or a drinking venue. And, culturally permitting,
delivering a story worth telling.
Madeira Sour at Zetter Townhouse Marylebone Photography: Addie Chinn
SERVICE
On the List Founder of Unlisted Collection, Loh Lik Peng discusses the importance of F&B to his business, the hotel market at large and why ‘heart, mouth and instinct’ will always trump a market survey.
Words: Harry McKinley
L
oh Lik Peng is a dynamic force in global hospitality.
nearest tube station. “Have you eaten?” he asks in typical
Surprising considering his education in law and former
Singaporean style. It may be a traditional greeting for the
profession as a corporate litigator, of all things. Yet the
region, but for a restaurateur it feels particularly fitting.
shift in trajectory has paid dividends for the Singapore-
At the very least we understand why he’d want to show
based hotelier and restaurateur. His hospitality group, Unlisted
off the wares of a venue that garners little but praise. He
Collection, encompasses properties in Sydney, London and
collapses into the seat opposite, immediately springing into
Shanghai, as well as Singapore of course. It includes seven
conversation about his day. Anyone lunching nearby in the
boutiques and, although they’re all starkly different from one
half-busy restaurant might think we’d met before; such is
another, they are united by a common theme: a commitment
the informal ease with which Peng talks. “What do you think
to world-class F&B.
of the place?” Well, It’s marvellous of course.
It’s in one of these restaurants that we’re to meet Peng:
importance laid on delivering terrific restaurants is clear.
Green. We’re early, but no matter, it’s an opportunity to find
From Jason Atherton’s Kensington Street Social at The Old
the best seat and have a covert stroll past the open kitchen.
Claire Sydney to unpretentious French dining at Cocotte at the
The restaurant is overseen by Lee Westcott and it shows in
Wanderlust Singapore, there’s a focus on quality and variety.
the modern European menu. It’s a glossy, modern space that
“Groups tend to be good at either the hotel side or the F&B
represents the continued gentrification of a neighbourhood that
side. Very few do both. Even fewer do both well,” says Peng,
was once a little rough around the edges.
with a chuckle. “We are equal parts hotel and F&B. Our hotel
When Peng arrives it’s with little fanfare. He’s alone and greets the staff with warm familiarity. He doesn’t cut the figure of a traditional businessman. There’s no starched shirt
036
Exploring Unlisted Collection’s various hotel locations, the
the Typing Room at Town Hall Hotel in London’s Bethnal
F&B venues tend to be successful in their own right. We’re fairly balanced in that respect and that’s a relatively unusual thing.” Then again there’s something unusual about Unlisted
or razor sharp suit, but instead a creased blazer and jeans.
Collection. This isn’t a group that deals in run-of-the-mill and
He’s a little breathless, power walking as he did from the
each project embodies a different attitude and a thoroughly
xxx
Table No.1 at The Waterhouse at South Bund, Shanghai
SERVICE
different personality. Peng is insistent that this was the intention from
“less so. Especially in a city where you have a wealth of choice and
the outset. “We never repeat,” he says.
where great food is available at all times of the day,” he says. Anyway,
It’s a smart approach from a group whose hotel work is centred on
guests don’t expect every bell and whistle when staying at a boutique
boutiques. It ensures every hotel and every restaurant remains the
asserts Peng. “I think the people who go to boutiques are different from
original and never the photocopy - each one with its own story to tell.
those who are quite happy to go and stay in a big chain. They demand
“It’s still a relatively niche market,” say Peng, on the issue of
the same level of service that you would get in a larger hotel, sometimes
boutiques as Unlisted Collection’s ‘sweet spot’, “but it has grown
even more, but for them it’s about the character of being in a smaller
dramatically. Ten years ago you had the Philippe Starck ones, now you
property with unique branding and a unique offering,” he says. “It
have a lot of hotels operating in the 30 to 50 room range. People like Kit
overwrites the convenience that a large hotel might provide. A smaller
Kemp have changed the model dramatically. It’s definitely a different
hotel will not traditionally provide the same level of facilities, but I
business model, but one that is much more viable today than before.”
think in F&B terms, it’s not always expected or necessary. If someone
Peng switches effortlessly between discussing hospitality in
orders room service all the time, for example, they’re missing a big
conceptual terms and the bottom line. Yet despite the scale of his
chunk of what the city has to offer and I don’t think that speaks to the
business interests he’s a believer in intuition or what he calls, “a bit of
demographic of boutiques.”
heart, mouth and instinct.” He’s never conducted a market survey and
Of his own hotels, Peng cites the Waterhouse at South Bund, Shanghai
readily admits that most of his projects are based upon the flash of an
– part of Design Hotels - as a good example of what Unlisted Collection
idea, the rest, as he says, “is filling in the gaps.”
represents. “A 19-room hotel, really cutting edge,” he says. “You have
“It’s tough because you never quite know what will work. I’m never
to be very adventurous to stay there and part of that mix is a very
super confident and that’s crucial because it keeps you on your toes,”
successful restaurant.” Indeed the 60-cover Table No 1, with its ‘world-
he says. “Fear is important because it forces you to concentrate. You can
influenced’ modern European menu is often touted as one of the city’s
control a lot of elements and have a sense that something is what the
best. It’s with restaurants such as these that the importance of non-
market wants, but until you try you never know.”
staying guests becomes clear.
Though he’s keen to point out that it’s never plain sailing, it seems that Peng’s intuition has so far served him well. For for all of the importance placed upon F&B by hotels today, and certainly by his own company, he takes a surprising view of its place in the grand scheme. “If you look at London Edition with Berner’s Tavern, André Balazs with
“If you have a hotel restaurant and you rely on staying guests, you’re in big trouble.”
Chiltern Firehouse and groups like ourselves, then F&B is an important component. But that is a tiny sliver of the hotel market. I think to suggest that F&B is driving the market based on the success of those
“For all of the talk of breakfast and room service, ultimately 95% of
niche players would be an exaggeration,” he says. “Very large companies
your F&B business is from people outside,” Peng explains. “If you have
will build large hotels and they’ll have all day dining and banqueting.
a hotel restaurant and you rely on staying guests, you’re in big trouble.
The majority of hotels are still built under that model. So the tiny sliver
That brings its own challenges. London and Sydney, for example, are
that does well is, I think, the exception at the moment, not the rule.”
foodie capitals. You have to be on top of your game otherwise you’re not
So when it comes to these behemoth hotels and the large global
going to go anywhere. Setting aside the hotel, if the restaurant is not
players, what could they be doing to better capitalise on F&B as a
excellent from day one it will sink. These markets are relentless and you
revenue driver? “I think most of them are not agile enough to ever
have to hit those right notes from the start.”
be meaningful players in the F&B scene, simply because the rooms
With the opening of The Old Claire in Sydney last year and the
component will always have to drive their business. The GM and the F&B
completion of Kensington Street Social in January – the third
director can never pay enough attention to it,” Peng says. “The hotel
restaurant for the 62-room hotel – Peng’s attention has shifted from
operators, by and large, do it terribly. So I think most of them are better
new projects to established. “We are planning refurbishments in the
leasing F&B spaces to outside operators to run independent restaurants
next two years, so we’re undergoing the planning for that now. 196
that are part of the hotel, rather than do it themselves. The guest
Bishopsgate is going into major refurbishment next year, so that’s a
doesn’t care whether the restaurant or the bar is independent, they just
focus.” As for the future, Peng is circumspect. “If you had asked me
care about their experience there. Claridge’s do it well. They have a very
five years ago, I would have gone anywhere. But given our geographical
strong room component and they lease F&B out to the people who do it
reach now, I have to be careful I don’t spread myself too thin. I want
best. The experience for the guest is seamless.”
to continue having fun and if we went into a new market my life would
With Unlisted Collection, all of the F&B spaces are operated inhouse
be unbearable. Naturally I’d like to do more projects, but I think they’ll
of course. The organisation’s mix of standalone units and hotels affords
be in markets I’m in now. Unless I find a really good project,” he says,
Peng something of a wide playing field to explore ideas, but he’s clear on
rounding things off with a breezy exception. After all, when the flash of
the focus. For staying guests, “breakfast is fundamental”, room service,
an idea is all it takes, who can say?
039
Tried and Tested AvroKO is a design and concept firm with a difference. As well as working with the likes of Four Seasons and 1 Hotels, the group owns several standalone F&B destinations, using these projects as laboratories to test ideas and allowing the team to balance creativity with a practiced understanding of operations. Together founders Greg Bradshaw, Adam Farmerie, William Harris and Kristina O’Neal are the driving force behind AvroKO. Via modern technology we’ve come together across four time zones to discuss their work, innovation and why ‘wishy-washy’ spaces are the worst.
Words: Harry McKinley
In your own words can you tell us about your organisation
static entity and the F&B is the dynamic energy. The shift of
and how you came together as a group?
that axis has been happening for the last decade. I think it’s
WILLIAM HARRIS: It goes back to when we were friends in
at a crescendo point now. The programmes around the F&B
university. We were collaborating and working on projects
are so big that when people think of the hotel they think of
as college creatives do. Ultimately Adam and Greg created an
the F&B components first and foremost.
architecture agency called Avro Design. And Kristina and I had created a branding and strategy consultancy called KO Media.
GREG BRADSHAW: We’ve always approached it from the
We’d always stayed in touch and we got back together and
F&B component. The room is really a temporary sanctuary.
starting working on a project with architecture, branding and
So I think it’s a very true statement. Economically you hear
media. It was a very holistic project. Although an experiment
about places like The Standard, that are making more than
at first, it was a lot of fun and we decided to keep it going.
50% of their revenues from F&B. I don’t think hoteliers would think of a hotel as being successful anymore if the
A focus on hospitality has become central to your work.
restaurant wasn’t successful.
Although it’s a matter of some debate, do you think that F&B is driving the hotel industry at the moment?
Is the issue of cohesion – between the F&B and the wider
WH: I think F&B is driving practically every commercial
hotel – something you take into account?
endeavour at this point! Often people are approaching us for
ADAM FARMERIE: We call ourselves a concept firm as
ways to break down the boundaries between ‘eat, work, sleep
opposed to a design firm. It just so happens that often
and play’. F&B is driving that.
design is how the concept manifests. We start with this one pure idea and let it filter down through the disciplines, so
040
KRISTINA O’NEAL: The Standard and Ace Hotels are the
no part of a project feels discordant from the others. It’s all
obvious folks, but the dynamic energy that they’re creating
part of a greater whole so when you walk through a hotel it
outside of the rooms is the biggest story. The room is the
all feels as though it’s telling the same story.
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William Harris, Kristina O’Neal, Adam Farmerie and Greg Bradshaw
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Denver Union Station Photography: Garrett Rowland
WH: I think if you have a strong backbone to a project, whatever your
You take a 360-degree approach to the projects you work on. How
ultimate programming is, a space can always be manipulated and bent to
do you do go about resolving some of the other aspects that form a
convey a concept. I think to have different spaces and have consistency is
complete F&B concept?
a great glue to create something that is resolved and cohesive.
GB: Throughout our history of designing these spaces our opinions, or certainly my opinion, has started to shift from thinking that design
GB: Yes, it all starts with the underlying conceit and concept that we’re
was perhaps 70% of the importance and the rest of the elements of
developing for the entire property.
the experience were 30%. That has almost shifted to the opposite percentage. Now, the design is almost secondary to the other aspects of
KO: I also think that sometimes the contrast is where the fun shows
the experience. The experience might be the touchpoints of the graphic,
up. The room is the temporary sanctuary, as Greg mentioned, and if
the uniform of the person in the hotel, the music in the space, or the
you have an F&B element then often cohesion is less important than
blankets they give you when you go and sit outside. Different restaurants
contrast. That’s what a lot of operators are doing today. It has to feel as
call for different strategies. There are certain restaurants where we
though it is the same market but you might not want the spaces to feel
play a lot of attention to the acoustics, because we want a less buzzy
like one unanimous vote.
environment for a fine dining venue. Then the opposite might be true of a bar space where you might want to create a little buzz, even when
Does your approach differ then in creating standalone F&B spaces
there are less people. The audio aspect has such a high impact of the
versus those within hotels?
experience of the space.
AF: You have to start by understanding and identifying with the client, what their history is and where their brand is going. So we create a
WH: The foundation of our studio has been to be holistic and we’re
concept that fits within that narrative but is still distinctive. If you have
ultimately all control freaks of some form or another, so that has led us
an independent restaurateur or hotelier you have to pull something out
to want to touch on all of these different aspects of an F&B space. Over
of the ether that everyone can grab on to. It’s a little bit harder. Everyone
the years we have grown several arms of the practice to help us realise
says it must be great when the sky’s the limit, but actually limitations
that. All of our furniture and lighting tends to be bespoke for each of
can create more interesting responses. Sometimes with so much open
our projects. We have a group [Goodshop] that not only designs those
space it can be hard to find a voice that the client wants to have.
pieces but can also manufacture them. Brand Bureau is our strategy and branding arm. So you can have more typical touchpoints like a name,
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right through to graphic touchpoints that come with an F&B experience:
they’re all slapping each other on the back and congratulating each
the menus, the business cards, all of the collateral, even down to the
other on what amazing taste they have. And that’s not wrong. It’s
uniforms as Greg mentioned. Our favourite projects are the ones where
simply about understanding your core demographic and who you’re
all of those specialties are engaged. But we’re also quite nimble.
speaking to.
AF: I don’t know of very many other design firms that also own and
AF: And it’s about managing who we work with. So we don’t get that
operate their own F&B venues. So it gives us an extremely unique
elephant tusk chair.
perspective on the projects that we work on with our clients. We have experience in what they’re going through and what they’re going to go
GB: I think it comes down to commitment. There are places that I go
through relative to the operation of the venue.
to and they just haven’t committed to being really bad. It’s the wishywashy spaces that I think are the worst.
WH: I think that’s important point. The restaurants are not just business ventures but labs to take risks and push things further than a client
Do you take issues of longevity into account when it comes to an F&B
project would afford. It’s a great way to test and to see what works and
concept and the design of the space?
what doesn’t work. That’s a valuable opportunity.
AF: For us it’s really important to steer clear of what the colour du jour is or what the trend is. It means the project will start to feel dated and
So what do you think have been the most valuable lessons you’ve been
the people who show up because something is flashy and shiny will
able to take from the venues you own and operate and how are you
move on. We mine historical eras, concepts and ideas. Something that
able to apply these to client projects?
people can relate to in a way that feels more sincere. We’re flipping it,
KO: I think the number one thing would be that we consistently
twisting it and re-presenting it, but we’re often utilising history to try to
experiment with operations and how design is affecting operations,
encapsulate and situate a design in a way that allows it longevity.
as well as bottom line. There are a lot of designers, even in integrated firms, who think only of aesthetics and outside experience. We’re thinking, when we hand-off to the client, about how they are going to be able to operate the venue when they have to do it for a decade. Public has been open for over ten years and we’re still using it as a lab and asking how the bar can be formatted to make a faster drink or how the greeting experience can be formatted to offer something different from the norm. If you have your own labs and you’re willing to transform them at will, and change their whole service style in a week, it gives you
“Sometimes the most vulgar projects are those I enjoy the most, because they take risks, they’re more fun and they have a quality that you can enjoy because they’re pure.” Kristina O’Neal
a different design experience when it translates to someone else. AF: And we also think about customer psychology and stickiness. What
KO: Sometimes if you can create emotional connectivity you can
you can do on a design front to affect both those things. Customer
supersede these kinds of issues with ‘trend’. So that it always feels
psychology is one of the things that has always connected the four of us.
connected - forever. That’s a really successful project.
All of these aspects of how people feel and act in a space, whether it’s reducing anxiety or increasing pleasure by including these twists in the
Do you think guests are seeking more intimate F&B experiences?
design that affect peoples’ psychology. That’s one of the things we really
GB: I think for the most part we agree with that. That’s very much in
enjoy taking from our own operations into our client work. The other
our DNA – these smaller spaces and more intimate zones, and variety of
thing is understanding the stickiness of a brand. What makes people
experiences. But we’re not always given that. Take Denver Union Station,
want to come back? How do you create ‘Instagrammable’ moments?
which is this massive train station incorporating a hotel, F&B and retail
There’s a social agenda that most projects would need to have to ensure
spaces. The energy is created by the pedestrians walking through, but we
they’re creating a sticky experience.
added these seating groups that created a little bit of that intimacy.
But of course you work from a position of subjectivity so is there such
AF: It can happen in a variety of ways it doesn’t always have to come
a thing as bad taste?
down to scale. That personal connection is key. We’re working on a
KO: I will say that sometimes the most vulgar projects are those I enjoy
6000 ft2 food hall in Shanghai and one of the main reasons the group
the most, because they take risks, they’re more fun and they have a
came to us is that they were terrified of this monster and they didn’t
quality that you can enjoy because they’re pure. There are probably
want to lose sight of the sense of intimacy. They wanted people to have
bigger sins than bad taste.
diverse experiences. One is able to do that in large spaces as well, it just takes a bit of creativity.
WH It’s about whether you’re aligned with the taste of your demographic or if you’re discordant with it. So if you have someone
KO: Food halls, even when connected with a hotel component, generally
that loves gold-gilt lions, massive tusks and gold chenille, and you get
take the opposite approach. You have a central gathering area, a series
a bunch of people together who all love that sort of thing, well then
of vendors and high-energy spaces that aren’t necessarily intimate
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Tivano at The Temple House, Chengdu Photography: Jason Lang
typically. There’s obviously still a demand for that kind of hospitality
particularly successful outside of your own projects?
experience as well.
WH: Every time I visit London I find myself either staying at, or gravitating towards, the Hoxton at Holborn. I think they’ve done an
Talking about some of those different F&B models, how do you think
excellent job of creating a space that ticks a lot of boxes without feeling
the provision of F&B in hotels is evolving?
like a formulaic F&B space, even thought it’s a significant component of
AF: You used to have an acceptable model where a hotel would have
the space.
a well-known chef and the F&B didn’t have to make economic sense. It was more to ‘capture’ a guest. Now hotels are thinking more about
KO: At the Paramount Hotel New York they have Queen of the Night, an
why people would want to commune in a space and that’s not always a
immersive dinner theatre style experience. It’s taking something that
straightforward sit down restaurant.
is cutting edge in the theatre world and then applying a very old school concept like dinner theatre. The innovation of it is so exciting.
KO: I think there are some interesting things happening with integrated ideas in hotel F&B. A good example would be Blackberry Farm,
And so finally, what’s in the pipeline for AvroKo that you feel
Tennessee, where the whole intention of going is to have a very elevated
particularly excited about?
food experience. You can be fly-fishing by day and then be dining on
WH: We have a lot in Asia. We’re doing F&B at the Waldorf Astoria in
the same fish you netted that night, or you can go picking truffles
Bangkok and we’re doing three levels of eating and drinking at the top of
in the garden with their truffle dogs. The culinary aspect is driving
the new Park Hyatt in Bangkok.
three quarters of the demand for the hotel rooms. The same goes for somewhere like Fogo Island Inn.
GB: There’s also a lot happening in California. One is in Calistoga and it’s a motor lodge type property that we’re renovating on a challenging
044
GB: Farm-to-table ideas are so prevalent that education becomes part of
budget. But that creates a lot of fun opportunities and it’s not what you
the experience of the stay.
expect from the usual luxury Napa.
Be they established or new, which hotel F&B concepts do you feel are
www.avroko.com
Proud to introduce dinnerware
foodservice.onei da.com
Oneida is a registered trademark of Oneida Ltd., an EveryWare Global Inc. company in the U.S. and foreign countries and is used pursuant to a license. Š 2016 Oneida Ltd.
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Nordic Now From Fäviken, the world-renowned restaurantwith-rooms in Sweden’s remote north, we speak to head chef Magnus Nilsson about why Nordic cuisine probably isn’t what you think.
Words: Harry McKinley with elements from The Curious Pear
F
ar from the tourist hub of Stockholm, in the remote and frequently frosty north of Sweden lies Fäviken. Frequently listed among the world’s best restaurants, this culinary outpost features just 16-covers and six rustic guestrooms, but has become required
pilgrimage for fans of Nordic cuisine. Rene Redzepi of Noma once proclaimed, “If I had a chance to go anywhere in the world right now, I would go to Fäviken.” The restaurant’s prodigious success lies firmly in the hands of its head chef, Magnus Nilsson. And although Fäviken sits in the sprawling alpine lands of Åre - in the Jämtland province where Nilsson grew up - he honed his talents working in the likes of L’Astrance and L’Arpèpe in Paris. Disillusioned with food upon his return to Sweden, Nilsson was initially hired as a sommelier for the Fäviken estate, tasked with overseeing the wine cellars. His tenure in the kitchen is a result of both happy coincidence and, perhaps, fate, as he took on the role only after another chef couldn’t be found. In many ways it’s eloquent that a man who had fallen out of love with cooking is now one of the leading figures in a global food movement. In Fäviken, he has created a destination that is high on experience and low on pageantry. The six lodge rooms are compact and unfussy but are, somehow, the perfect continuation of a meal that feels grounded in authenticity and Scandinavian solemnity. Even the restaurant theatrics
046
Photography: Erik Olsson
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– the extraction of marrow from a shinbone in the middle
months. This connection to the earth and to the story of
of the dining room, and a curmudgeonly-sounding ice
this secluded slice of Sweden is part of the experience that
cream maker – feel more understated than most. As Nilsson
proves such a pull for guests. But despite the international
says, “some of the techniques are very rooted in the old
renown of the restaurant, Nilsson thinks there’s still a way
cultures of the area.”
to go before we’ll have a grasp on what Nordic cuisine is
Last year saw the publication of The Nordic Cookbook,
really all about. “You see the most obvious dishes: herring,
Nilsson’s most recent foray into food publishing. An
gravlax, meatballs, those kinds of things. And then you
impossibly thick tome from Phaidon, in it Nilsson
have some very obscure foods like Icelandic shark. Almost
lifts the lid on a rich culinary tapestry that he sees as
curiosities,” he says. “Beyond that, most people don’t
misunderstood. “Geographically, it is such a large region,”
really have a grasp of the full food culture, simply because
says Nilsson. “So considering the nature, the weather and
it’s very inaccessible. If you compare Nordic food culture
the landscape, you naturally have a huge variety of food.
to Spanish food, for example, you could go into a random
One of the things I discovered whilst making the book is
restaurant in Madrid and there is a pretty good chance of
that it is not a homogenous region. What you eat in Finland
you finding a true representation of traditional Spanish
and what you eat in Greenland are incredibly different,
cooking. But in Sweden, you won’t find anything. That kind
but I never realised the degree to which these foods would
of restaurant doesn’t exist, because in the Nordic region the
become part of the menu. It’s not like I’ve just found dishes
food culture is carried more within the home, rather than in
and put them on the menu, it’s more about bringing the
restaurants. If you don’t have someone in the Nordic region
processes into the kitchen at Fäviken.”
to invite you into their home, the chances are you probably won’t get a taste of the food culture.” Whilst Nilsson acknowledges his place in the
“I think people are a lot more intelligent than to think that what we do at the restaurant is an accurate representation of Nordic cooking”
vanguard of Nordic food success, and is pleased with the camaraderie between the region’s top names – Noma’s Redzepi extended his congratulations to his fellow Nordic restaurants after the release of the 2016 Michelin Guide to the region – he’s also conscious that guests don’t make the mistake of confusing accomplishment with representation.
More than your typical recipe book, what the Nordic
“People know the stereotypical recipes and there has
Cookbook ultimately showcases is Nilsson’s affinity for the
been a lot of media coverage about places like Fäviken and
region. His dramatic landscape photography is as integral
Noma,” he explains. “But I think people are a lot more
to demonstrating the character and context of the recipes
intelligent than to think that what we do at the restaurant
as the handsomely styled dishes. “The landscapes of the
is an accurate representation of Nordic cooking, because
countries I explored were so integrated with the food,’ he
it’s not. The amount of exposure has inevitably shaped
explains. “So showcasing their beauty just seemed like the
the way people see Nordic food, but there is much more
natural thing to do.” A new title – Nordic: a Photographic
to it. What we can see now, and what I hope to see more
Essay of Landscapes, Food and People - presents a
of, is restaurants with their own clear identity, showing
personally curated collection of Nilsson’s documentary
the characteristics of the chef. It makes for much more
photographs from The Nordic Cookbook as well as many
interesting eating.”
previously unpublished images taken during his research. Understanding this synergy between surroundings and
www.favikenmagasinet.se
cuisine helps, in part, in understanding Fäviken. The region is a postcard of rural Sweden, made up of red wooden
Both The Nordic Cookbook and Nordic: a Photographic Essay of
buildings and imposing forests, backlit by dramatic changes
Landscapes, Food and People are published by Phaidon.
in temperature and light across the seasons. Nilsson
048
himself catches much of the fish served in the restaurant,
Elements of this piece have appeared previously in Suitcase Magazine.
ingredients are foraged on the grounds of the estate and
www.thecuriouspear.com
local produce is preserved in stores for the bitter winter
www.uitcasemagazine.com
xxx
The Nordic Cookbook: Lamb Mutton
Members Only The rise and rise of private members clubs continues unabated, but the stuffy wood-panelled destinations of old are giving way to destinations that fuse bedrooms with F&B spaces in models more akin to boutique hotels than classic meeting spaces. Brian Clivaz is one of the most noted names in the sector. Behind such projects as Home House and the Arts Club, he has also previously served as F&B director for The Savoy Group and is the owner of L’Escargot in London’s Soho. With the opening of the Devonshire Club, a 68-room private members club in East London, he adds another destination to his exclusive list. He speaks to us about the evolving role of private members clubs in the hotel sphere and explains why a great F&B experience is about more than just food.
Words: Harry McKinley
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The Devonshire Club
How do you think rooms and F&B must work together to create a complete experience?
as your principal clients. In terms of the F&B, I don’t think exclusivity
someone wouldn’t have to wear a suit and tie to fit in. But I think clubs have driven the
They have to be very closely aligned. Guests
is necessarily allied to the price you pay. There
popularity of boutique hotels and, you’re right,
can go out once or twice during their stay, but
are some places that are not at all exclusive,
some boutique hotels are almost clubs. Take
you want to make their first point of call your
apart from the fact that they charge lots of
Haymarket, Charlotte Street or Ham Yard,
own F&B operation. It’s interesting how some
money. Look at the standalones: a restaurant
they’re really clubs. If you look at Firmdale and
hotels get this very right and others get it very
like Beast for example, where you can expect
look at Soho House, they’re both brands that
wrong. So if you look at somewhere like the
to pay £200 a head for dinner, you would
people like to follow. In a way, Soho House has
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park or The Goring
expect to be exclusive but isn’t at all. Then
almost become the Marriott Hotels of private
they get it very right, because the restaurants
there’s Wiltons, which is less pricey, but is like
restaurants. It’s got thousands of members and
are difficult to get into. Of course if you’re
a private club. La Gavroche is very much like a
they’re going all over the world, bumping into
staying in the hotel, they’ll find you a place.
private club. Maggie Jones is like a private club.
each other. There’s also Soho Farmhouse now.
If you look at somewhere like the Athenaeum
So it does pose the question of how long it can
Hotel, the whole F&B is being given over to the
So with the exception that one charges a
sustain such popularity and be a private club.
Galvin Brothers. So it will be interesting to see
membership fee and the other is open to any
I tend to create different spaces for different
how that evolves.
paying guest, where does the distinction lie in
markets altogether.
experience between a boutique and a private At a time when the services provided by a
club?
How does that manifest itself in the F&B?
private members club are in many ways akin
Even if someone stays at a boutique, it’s
Because of course a private members club,
to those of a boutique hotel, how important is
likely that they’ll be entertained in a
by virtue of the model, relies on consistent
the element of exclusivity?
private members club. But a private club is
patronage.
It’s essential that a private club is just that:
fundamentally about creating a community
At a private members club, versus a traditional
private. It must be exclusive but, for me, not
with a particular common thread. With Home
hotel, there’s the benefit that the staff gain
exclude. The distinction of course is that with a
House we created a traditional gentleman’s
much more familiarity with the guest. They
private club you pick and choose who you have
club, but for a far more liberal guest, so
know who likes a certain drink and who prefers
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The Devonshire Club
their meat well done. Recognition is important.
it’s City workers of course, but we also want
every day. A lot of these people have breakfast,
It makes me laugh when you see people
people to come to us. We want to be a magnet.
lunch and dinner in restaurants and they do
putting out brochures saying, ‘we have really
People said Home House would never work and
not want to have a giant slab of steak. They
good cocktails’ or ‘we have a really good chef’,
it could have been the biggest white elephant
want something light and tasty.
because one would expect that they would have
in London, but people loved it: stars of stage
those things. That’s the minimum expectation.
and screen. So for Devonshire Club, of course
What do you feel are some of the shifts in the
A club, however, is always about the bar. If you
the City workers will come but our biggest
industry that will have the greatest impacts
don’t have a great bar, it’s difficult to make
priority is to make it very female friendly. We
on your operations?
it successful. At a private club you have to
want it to be very La Dolce Vita. We’re certainly
It will be interesting to see the effect of the
be able to go in by yourself, sit and feel very
not looking for people who are going to sit
living wage and the EU Working Time Directive.
comfortable.
at a table with a cup of tea, clicking away on
Customers have to learn that they have to
a laptop all day long. We don’t want people
pay for it. They want a cheap meal, served by
sitting there doing their ‘laptopery’, as I call it.
trained professionals with quality ingredients
Is there an expectation that the F&B will deliver at a superior level to that of a hotel?
How will the F&B offer differ from other
understand that they have to pay a bit more so
expensive on your bottom line. To go that
destinations in the area?
that we can pay our staff well.
extra mile is not necessary. There can be an
The F&B is going to be South of France, crossed
averageness, but it depends on the extent of
with my favourite cuisine, which is British of
restaurants because they come along, it’s all
the averageness you’re will to accept. It’s not
course. If you go to the City of London, there
fun, and then disappear. For restaurants that
all about the food but about the experience.
are quite a few places with a sushi element and
have to survive it makes it much more difficult.
If you take The Wolseley, it’s a consistent
you also get steakhouses. Then there are places
Devonshire Square, the home of the Devonshire
standard. It’s never brilliant, it’s never bad, but
in the taller buildings that are all about the
Club, is a good example. You have these pop-
it’s consistently good. I think with Devonshire
view, but there’s nowhere that gives you high-
ups that don’t pay rates and that pay their staff
Club our average will be high.
end sophistication. If I want to take someone
in cash. It’s controversial but they’re really
out for afternoon tea, there’s nowhere similar
sucking business from the ‘proper’ businesses.
I also think many of these pop-ups destroy
Speaking of which, the Devonshire Club is set
to Claridge’s or One Aldwych. There are hotels
to combine 68 guestrooms with F&B. Can you
of course, but their F&B offering is not of the
in school and I told my careers master that
tell us more about the concept?
calibre of the West End.
I wanted to go into hospitality. He said it
Devonshire Club started off as a building with
Our F&B director, Simon Whitley has worked
On a lighter note, I remember when I was
was shameful and that it was the lowest of
amazing open spaces. It had potential for a
with the Dorchester Collection at Coworth Park
the low. At that time you either went into
lovely big brasserie. It’s got the bedrooms,
and he’s also worked all over the world for the
the army or you went into hospitality. Now
the bars, the drawing rooms and the lounges.
likes of Jean-Georges Vongerichten. So he has
people promote the idea that they want to
It’s got a very nice garden and I think having
a great backing in Asian flavours. Head Chef
become a chef or a sommelier. I think that’s
a smoking space is quite important. A club is
Oliver Lesnik was trained at The Connaught
a wonderful shift and it really demonstrates
first about the building and then the people
and was head chef at Claridge’s for many years.
the appreciation being bestowed on the F&B
who are going to populate it. For Devonshire,
052
but they want to pay very little. People have to
To be exceptional is actually disproportionately
We’re going to cater for people who eat out
industry. Long may it continue.
Specials
“I try to create dishes with a lot of adjectives, not with a lot of ingredients.” Chef Giuseppe Iannotti on his restaurant Krèsios at the Mercer Barcelona.
- BE ORIGINALE s in c e 1525 -
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Pulitzer’s Bar Pulitzer Amsterdam
Set within 25 interlinked 17th and 18th canal houses, the recently
and branding that blends old world character with a contemporary eye.
refurbished Pulitzer is one of the city’s most recognisable boutiques.
It’s a style that aligns with the bar’s demo of bright young things and
Opened in February, the hotel’s bar aims to fuse hedonistic modernity
cosmopolitan creatives.
with a sense of timelessness.
Overseen by head bartender Andrei Talapanescu, the cocktail menu
The 80-cover venue was designed by Jacu Strauss and features an
follows a formula that is classic in style but inventive in execution. Each
appealingly downbeat interior, in which sumptuous velvets and leather
drink features a consistent recipe that is reflective of the ethos of the bar
add depth to an otherwise black space – flickering candles inside merging
as well as the wider hotel: one part the past, one part the present and one
with the glowing street lamps outside to dramatic effect.
part ‘revolutionary’ technique. The pineapple old fashioned is served on
Tableware comes courtesy of Churchill, Sambonet and Maxim World, whilst the bar’s signature tipples are served in a mix of Libbey and Schott
a bed of haw to heighten the aroma, while the G&T features a carbonated gin to aid in the mixing process and strengthen the flavour.
Zwiesel glassware. For menus and logos the bar worked with KesselsKramer, an independent communications agency who have previously collaborated with the likes of CitizenM and Grand Marnier. The result? Collateral
www.pulitzersbar.nl
IN A BITE Covers: 80 • Interior Design: Jacu Strauss • Head Bartender: Andrei Talapanescu • Bar Consultant: Andrew Nicholls • Menus and Logos: KesselsKramer Glassware: Libbey and Schott Zweisel • Tableware: Churchill, Sambonet, Maxim World
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Firebird Diner Four Seasons DIFC, Dubai
The DIFC [Dubai International Financial Centre] is often associated with
guest – with a special ‘late nite’ menu available on weekends from
the upscale and contemporary - its Gate Village elevated off street level
midnight until 3am.
and home to many of the city’s commercial art galleries. At the recently
Overseen by executive chef Matthew Dahlkemper, the restaurant’s
opened Four Seasons DIFC, the humble diner is also being elevated,
menu features American diner staples given an extravagant flourish, with
with an Adam D. Tihany-designed space that retranslates the American
Maine lobster corn dogs, ‘chicken fried’ wagyu steak and duck fat fries.
institution as an elegant dining destination.
“I am thrilled to be partnering once again with Four Seasons on such
A creative collaboration with chef Michael Mina - and his eponymous
an exciting project,” says Michael Mina, who was born in Cairo, Egypt.
restaurant management group - Firebird Diner is described as a
“Being of Middle Eastern heritage, I couldn’t be more pleased that our
‘whimsical’ take on the form. Classic open booths provide relaxed group
first project in the region is with such a trusted partner, and in such a
seating, while a diner-style counter offers perching space for those who
vibrant part of Dubai.”
wish to enjoy the view of the Downtown skyline through the floor-toceiling windows. With 87 covers in the main dining room, 36 on the terrace and seven at the counter, the restaurant aims to attract a diverse
www.firebirddubai.com
IN A BITE Concept: Mina Group • Interior Design: Tihany Design • Operator: Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts • Executive Chef: Matthew Dahlkemper • Covers: 87 dining room, 36 terrace, 7 counter • Cadillac Sculptures: Bram Tihany
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Creating Hospitality
Artesano Authentic. Ingenious.You.
Villeroy & Boch S.à.r.l. Hotel & Restaurant 330, rue de Rollingergrund 2441 Luxembourg Tel.: + (352) 46 82 11 · Fax: + (352) 46 90 22 E-mail: info.hr@villeroy-boch.com www.villeroy-boch.com/hotel
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The Bank Brasserie & Bar Park Hyatt, Vienna
Recently reopened after a month long renovation, The Bank Brasserie &
Schott Zweisel provides the mainstay glassware, with bespoke pieces for
Bar sees the focus shift from pure dining to a bar-driven concept, with
signature dishes and cocktails. With table linens from Kaechele, crockery
interior design by Dutch agency FG Stijl. The 108-cover space features
from Médard de Noblat, copperware from Ruffoni and silverware from
room for 44-covers in the bar area, 16 at the bar counter and a 12-seat
Robbe & Berking, the restaurant traverses continental Europe in its
private dining room at the brasserie.
eclectic table styling – a chance reflection of The Bank Bresserie & Bar’s
Drawing upon the building’s illustrious past as Vienna’s grand bank, the design incorporates wood, leather and copper in an evocatively contemporary take on tradition.
internationally cosmopolitan guest. Heading up the concept of the bar, Reinhard Pohorec – or Reini as he likes to be known – is already a globally established name in the drinks
The menu also nods to the heritage of the venue in creations such as
industry and is the creative mind behind Vienna’s boutique bar project
the Tresor, one of the bar’s 11 signature drinks. Made with golden water
Tür 7. ““With its exceptional drink creations, The Bank Bar occupies an
and refined with saffron, it is served in a wooden vault box – challenging
internationally leading role,” he says.
the drinker to think conceptually about notions of worth, albeit with a nudge and a wink.
www.restaurant-thebank.com
IN A BITE Design: FG Stijl • Operator: Hyatt Hotels Corporation • Developer: SIGNA Prime Selection • Covers: 108 • Glassware: Schott Zweisel • Linens: Kaechele Tableware: Médard de Noblat, Robbe & Berking • Copperware: Ruffoni
058
Dining Culture. Pleasure. Experience. Everything for the perfect sense experience.
Visit us ...
WMF Professional | www.wmf-professional.de
Hotelex Shanghai, March 29-April 1st, 2016 FHA Singapore, April 12-15, 2016 NRA Chicago, May 21–24, 2016
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ilLido at the Cliff Sofitel Singapore Sentosa
Overlooking the Singaporean Straits, ilLido at the Cliff takes its design
Porcelain, glassware from Riedel and cutlery from Degrenne. If the tabletop
cues from the undulating waters outside. The subtly nautical theme from
is clean and unfussy, then the menu is rampant with bravado. Overseen by
JPA Design (James Park Associates) incorporates turquoise furnishings and
executive sous chef Simone Fraternali, it offers a taste of Italy with options
Roman blinds, whilst carpeting in a linear pattern from Interface hints at
including tagliolini with scallops and truffle, and fettuccine with venison
a ship’s planked deck. Sunlight is filtered through the terrace’s glass roof
ragù and radicchio Tardivo.
by an elaborate screen of tensile sailcloth from RIO Interior, reminiscent of
The restaurant’s bar, an imposing slab of Black Forest marble, is framed
the sails of the yachts that occasionally pass on the nearby shipping routes.
by spherical brass pendant lights and flanked by a row of bespoke barstools
The restaurant features 52-covers in the main dining room, 28 across
and tables, also in brass. Serving up classic cocktails, the outdoor space
two private dining rooms, 12 at the bar and 104 on the covered outdoor
provides a welcoming haven for those who wish to enjoy a sea breeze of
terrace, where, in the evening, table lights echo those bobbing on the waves
the more literal variety.
just beyond the cliff that gives the venue its name. Tableware is modern and understated with plates and dishes from Patra
www.sofitel-singapore-sentosa.com
IN A BITE Covers: 58 dining room, 28 private dining (2 rooms), 104 terrace, 12 bar • Interior Design: JPA Design • Owner: Royal Group • Operator: AccorHotels / Sofitel • Contractor: Sunray Construction • Executive Chef: Simone Fraternali • Head Bartender: Davide Mollica • Tableware: Patra Porcelain • Glassware: Riedel Cutlery: Degrenne Paris
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TIGERHOTEL ANNIVERSARY 1996-2016
MODULAR BUFFET SYSTEM BUFFET PRESENTATION HOLLOWWARE CHAFING DISHES URNS & DISPENSERS TROLLEYS
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www.tigerhotel.co.kr
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Artizen The Camby, Phoenix
The Camby is Phoenix’s newest luxury boutique. With 277 guestrooms it
again’ moments, continuing the hotel’s theme of refined revelry and using
draws upon five Cs defining of Arizona in its Stonehill & Taylor-led design:
the five Cs.”
cotton, cattle, citrus, climate and copper.
The restaurant features 56-covers and director of culinary experiences
In the restaurant, Artizen, the same influences can be found. Statement
Dushyant Singh directs a menu that focuses on modern American cuisine,
freestanding metallic light pieces from iWorks and natty diminutive
from prime New York steak to grilled boar strip loin. Signature cocktails
cacti on the tables nod to the hotel’s location but provide a thoughtfully
include the location-appropriate Under the Desert Sun, with Bombay
conceived sense of balance between cliché and modernity, obvious and
Sapphire, Domaine de Canton, lemon, simple syrup and orange bitters;
abstract. The restaurant is accessible from the lobby, where large metal
and the saucily titled Thai Me Down, with Bombay Sapphire East, lime,
screens depicting a nonfigurative southwest pattern separate the two
ginger syrup, egg white, celery bitters and cucumber.
spaces, one bright and light, the other more contemplative in its design with deep cerulean walls and dark wood floors.
Cocktail glasses and china are from Steelite, barware from Modern Mixologist and HF Coors provide custom porcelain pottery.
“We wanted to create an intimate and luxurious space,” says Sara Duffy, senior interiors associate at Stonehill & Taylor, “and ‘look-then-look-
www.thecamby.com
IN A BITE Covers: 56 • Interior Design: Stonehill & Taylor • Owner: Host Hotels & Resorts • Operator: Destination Hotels • Director of Culinary Experiences: Dushyant Singh • Tableware and glassware: Steelite • Barware: Modern Mixologist • Porcelain: HF Coors
062
Stock Burger Co. Holiday Inn, Brighton
When the Burger Theory chain launched in 2014 it signalled a sea change
which is otherwise composed of a mix of private booths, banquettes and a
for IHG and its Holiday Inn brand. More than merely another throwaway
large communal table. Customised pendant lighting helps to define these
concept piggybacking on the still-going-strong ‘burger boom’, it was the
various zones, intuitively providing for bawdy groups and intimate meets
cornerstone of a new approach for the organisation, one that framed F&B
alike. A retractable glazed frontage opens up to reveal a stretch of Brighton
as a key component of Holiday Inn’s revenue picture.
seafront that will soon play host to the British Airways i360, an observation
At the IHG brand conference in Las Vegas that same year Maurice
tower under construction from the same design and engineering team as
Cooper, at the time VP of Holiday Inn in the Americas (now VP of the
the London Eye. Scheduled to open this year, the soon-to-be landmark will
global Holiday Inn family), said that, “F&B is at the heart of how we will
likely reap dividends for the restaurant and bar, as tourists and residents
compete differently.” Fast-forward to 2016 and Burger Theory and its
flock to fill up on modern Americana after their cable car trips.
gourmet classics have proved to be a remarkable hit – both with punters and the bottom lines of the hotels that carry the concept.
Despite the quality of Stock Burger Co.’s design and branding, it’s the quality of the product itself that is central to the restaurant’s ethos. “It
Now in the UK, Holiday Inn are remoulding the idea into a differently
was vital that we didn’t just design a nice space with a substandard food
flavoured patty with the opening of Stock Burger Co. at the brand’s Brighton
offer,” says Webb. “Where possible, local high quality produce is used
location. With interiors and branding from Superfutures, the restaurant
to make sure that Stock Burger Co.’s product is delivered to the highest
follows in the same vein of delivering gourmet burgers and craft beers,
standard.” Beef is 100% ‘Glenarm Shorthorn’, sourced by Hannan Meats
but with an attitude and identity all of its own. “After market research and
from select farms in Northern Ireland. Craft beers are supplied by Naked
design insight we concluded a new burger brand had to compete with the
Beer Co. and Marston’s and Blackdown Distillery throw a number of their
existing high street offers,” says Ben Webb, director of Superfutures, on
finely crafted spirits into the mix, including Sussex Dry Gin and Silver Birch
translating the concept for the UK. “Therefore we had to start from scratch
Vodka. Coffee comes courtesy of the Brighton-based Small Batch Coffee,
with redevelopment of the menu, rebranding and design.”
an artisan roaster founded in 2007. It’s a credible and encompassing list
With 146-covers inside, and 40 al fresco covers on the terrace, Stock
central to the Stock Burger Co. brand narrative.
Burger Co. is positioned not just as a distinctive - and perhaps unexpected -
As for the future of this new Holiday Inn concept, Superfuture’s Webb
F&B offering for the hotel, but as a neighbourhood destination with its own
is clear that there’s possibly a super future for Stock Burger Co. beyond
off-street entrance. “One of our key design hallmarks is the independent
Brighton. “Based on the current success it would appear we have several
high street entry point,” says Webb. “It psychologically disconnects the
Stock Burger Co. sites planned for both the UK and the rest of Europe. The
F&B concept from the main hotel and more importantly allows us to design
thinking behind the concept is that it’s a kit of parts that can be easily
every part of the guest journey from start to finish. The concept offers the
applied across the estate. With IHG we have developed a checklist of design
guest a contrast to the main hotel, which in turn makes them feel as though
hallmarks that will enable the selection of new sites and ensure they meet
they have entered a different environment with its own unique personality.
the same quality standard. We appreciate every site is different and has its
The hope is that the guest completely forgets they are in a hotel F&B space
own challenges, but the key design hallmarks must stay at the forefront
and that they immerse themselves in the brand experience.”
of the concept.”
In its design Stock Burger Co. isn’t derivative. Nonetheless it is intelligible to a broad market, mixing inventive touches with riffs on familiar elements and archetypal burger joint touchpoints. A central bar defines the space,
064
www.stockburgerco.com
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IN A BITE Covers: 146 inside, 40 terrace • Interior design and branding: Superfutures • Suppliers: Hannan Meats, Naked Beer Co., Marston’s, Blackdown Distillery, Small Batch Coffee • Operator: Kew Green Hotels
065
Automata Old Clare Hotel, Sydney
Words: Dan F. Stapleton
W
hen Loh Lik Peng, the owner of the
that, unsurprisingly, focuses on foraged ingredients.
Unlisted Collection, opened the Old Clare
Locals who were unable to secure a table at Noma’s
Hotel in central Sydney in late 2015, the
recent Sydney pop-up are flocking here for a bit of
international press focused on its location
Nordic flair.
– on the site of a former brewery in the once-gritty
an unassuming place run by a young chef, Clayton
design. But for Sydneysiders, the real story was the
Wells, who has spent most of his career to date cooking
property’s food and beverage offering: three fine-dining
at local restaurants, albeit well-regarded ones such as
restaurants, each helmed by a chef of considerable
Momofuku Seiōbo. Automata’s five-course set menu
repute, and an elegant bar with Art Deco furnishings.
and resolutely casual approach don’t immediately lend
For decades, hotel dining in Australia was limp and
themselves to newspaper reviews or internet buzz. But
uninspired. Only recently, as Sydney and Melbourne have
many of Sydney’s food lovers are becoming regular
begun asserting themselves as luxury destinations, have
customers at Automata.
five-star hotels begun moving away from safe menus
First and foremost, the food is excellent: inventive
and anonymous chefs. Now, the Old Clare has pushed
but accessible, and light enough to be enjoyed for lunch
the entire industry forward. Opening four distinct F&B
or dinner. Wells focuses on fish and seafood, and enjoys
outlets is an ambitious move for any new hotel, let
playing with textures – for example, the pre-meal
alone one with just 62 guestrooms. The fact that each
snack on a recent weekend was a puffy, crunchy piece
restaurant at the Old Clare is serving challenging, costly
of dried salmon skin that tasted like an upscale Chinese
food makes the undertaking seem even more audacious.
prawn cracker.
The restaurant attracting the most attention is
Unlike some longer small-plate menus, Automata’s
Kensington Street Social, the latest addition to British
five-course offering feels coherent, and the servings
chef Jason Atherton’s fast-expanding empire. Michelin-
are large enough to give diners a strong sense of the
starred Atherton has a knack for capturing the zeitgeist,
ingredients used. In a refreshing twist, the dessert
which in 2016 means an artfully disorganised menu and
offering – such as the recent pumpkin-seed sorbet with
an endless wine list - there were over 180 drops at last
freeze-dried mandarin – is rarely very sweet, acting
count. Next door at Silvereye, former Noma sous chef
more as a palette cleanser.
Sam Miller is offering a 17-course degustation menu
066
Arguably the underdog at the Old Clare is Automata,
Chippendale neighbourhood – and its eclectic interior
“The menu is about finding the perfect balance,”
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Crispy salmon skin with yuzu kosho emulsion and sake
067
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says Wells, “and the emphasis is on Australian
his attention to hospitality spaces. Darwon has
glasses from Germany and Nachtmann whiskey
produce. We change our menu as often as
taken a ‘blank canvas’ approach, opting not
glasses from Austria, as well as Mepra cutlery
possible, and therefore offer our guests a
to cover up the building’s original concrete
from Italy. The plates and bowls are perhaps
different experience should they pop in on a
floors or replace its floor-to-ceiling windows.
the least conventional elements: they’re heavy
regular basis.”
Decorative details include a radial engine
and bulky with rough finishes and cream
reborn as a chandelier, but there is no artwork
colouring, giving them an almost prehistoric
Chippendale locals, seem to be the target
or bright colours. The goal, according to Wells,
feel. “The tableware was designed and created
demographic at Automata, which has been
was to create a venue that felt utilitarian and
by Loh Lik Peng’s cousin, Loh Lik Kian from
carefully designed to make diners feel at
remained connected to the site’s industrial
Singapore,” Wells explains. “He has a small
ease. The small restaurant accommodates 60
past.
production so we were lucky to work with him
Regulars, be they repeat hotel guests or
across two levels, with the majority of seats
“The design by Matt Darwon focuses on
on this. The colour scheme and bare materials
at two long, communal tables - there is also a
the bare and industrial look of the building,
reflect our minimal style allowing the focus to
scattering of two-person tables. The ground-
which was formerly Carlton & United
be on the food.”
floor kitchen is open, with a sturdy chef’s
Brewery’s administration building,” Wells
bench in full view of diners. Staff are young and
explains. Because Sydney is a young city,
might feel intimidated by Automata’s set-
stylish but also professional, treading the line
historic spaces that have been repurposed
menu concept and fish focus, he seems
between friendly and efficient with aplomb.
are relatively uncommon, and Wells says
confident that the restaurant’s other charms
Automata’s interior is, in some cases, as much
will endear it to international visitors,
at Automata,” says Wells, “whether you’re
of a draw as his menu. “Our clientele ranges
particularly those who want a more low-key
hoping to dine or work with us.” For staff, that
from creative types to young professionals,”
experience than those offered by Silvereye
means a relaxed dress code and contemporary
he says – “in fact, it’s anyone who is remotely
and Kensington Street Social. Sydney locals,
tunes on the stereo. For diners, it means
design conscious.”
meanwhile, seem to have been won over
“We want everyone to feel comfortable
unpretentious food and the ability to rub
The mezzanine level has a wonderfully
already. “We’ve received an overwhelmingly
shoulders with your companions. Says Wells,
tucked-away feel, with a curved ceiling that
positive response since opening,” Wells says.
“Both our dishes and the communal tables
features original dark-wood panels from the
“Small-plate menus are uncommon in the city,
allow for a sense of comfort.”
former administration building – arguably the
but Sydneysiders always seem ready to try new
least ‘industrial’ element of the whole design.
or different things. We’re incredibly grateful.”
Like the other two restaurants at the Old Clare, the interior of Automata was designed by Matt Darwon, aka Matt Machine, a local motorcycle mechanic who has recently turned
068
While Wells admits that some hotel guests
But even this space feels minimalist. That clean, uncomplicated vibe extends to the European tablewear: Spiegelau water
www.automata.com.au
Krèsios BCN Mercer Hotel Barcelona
Words: Lauren Ho
L
aunching a restaurant with Michelin-star
with a series of accolades, he is the holder of one
aspirations in Barcelona – a city already
Michelin star for his restaurant, Krèsios in the city
heaving with top-notch dining options –
of Telese Terme.
is a dicey business. Even more so with an
technical approach and modern interpretations of
for championing its local cuisine. But Francesc
classics such as roast chicken or fish and chips,
Holgado, General Manager of the Mercer Hotel,
Iannotti agrees with Holgado in saying that this
insists that to remain competitive a destination
was a collaboration that was meant to be. “We
restaurant that offers something distinct is in
have the same outlook,” he says emphatically.
order. “There is a lot of good food in Barcelona,”
Holgado reaffirms: “Our points of view and
he explains. “But we don’t have any Italian chefs,
attitudes to service are completely aligned. We
so we thought maybe this is something we can
are both always looking for perfection.” Happily,
offer that’s different.”
the two locations also aesthetically coincide,
So, after three years of trial and error – along
070
A self-taught cook, known for his strong
unfamiliar foreign chef, in an area well known
giving Iannotti little reason to change the décor
with a string of Catalan chefs there was a brief
in the Barcelona venue. Of course, the fact that
stint with the late French chef Jean Luc Figueras
the restaurant – along with the rest of the hotel
– the hotel seems to be back on track to fulfil its
– has been smartly outfitted by Madrid-based
fine dining mission, boldly appointing Giuseppe
firm Gastón y Daniela is a huge boon; understated
Iannotti to take the helm and bring his fresh
furnishings by Italian brand Cassina, dramatic
Krèsios brand to Barcelona’s discerning palates.
full-size paintings by Catalan artist Agustí Puig
And while the 33-year old chef admittedly doesn’t
and low, considered lighting sits within a gem of
have the required celebrity status in Spain, he
a building composed of a variety of architectural
does hold considerable clout in Italy, where along
elements including Roman remains from the
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original city wall and medieval arches. Restored
offbeat attitude, which is evidenced in each of
building, ticks all the right boxes for potential
and stitched together by Pritzker Prize-
the dishes that don’t fail to delight. From the
superstardom, there is some stiff competition,
winning architect Rafael Moneo, the hotel
pizza marinara which, wrapped in greaseproof
not only from a city that already boasts 22
– located within the city’s charming Gothic
paper, reveals itself as an Italian iteration
restaurants with Michelin stars, but from a
Quarter – successfully merges the old with the
of a Chinese bao (a steamed, filled bun) to
country that has nurtured the likes of Ferran
new, adding further significance to Iannotti’s
the zhushed-up version of a Russian salad –
Adrià and the Roca brothers - currently holders
cooking philosophy.
molten egg yolk coated in tuna mayonnaise
of the best restaurant in the world title for
and topped with a freeze-dried caper – each
their Girona venue, El Celler de Can Roca.
but the food is certainly a departure, with the
is testament to Iannotti’s instinctive passion,
Expectations are high; discerning culinary
new menu riding on the success of Iannotti’s
creativity and skill. Salty, crispy fried cod skin
tourists are seeking exceptional experiences and
Telese outpost. “Everything here is the same
with paprika; rich, flavourful al-dente risotto
many conservative locals remain loyal to the
as what I have in Krèsios Telese,” affirms
vongole; and an expertly executed goose dish
crew of Catalan chefs that have, in part, built
Iannotti. “The only things I asked for were my
done three ways, are just a few of the courses
up Spain’s culinary reputation. But Holgado
ingredients and some of my guys. This was
– suitably presented on specially designed
insists that attitudes are changing. He also
necessary to continue with my philosophy and
crockery by local studio Luesma & Vega – that
believes that the making of a first-class hotel
my life, because Krèsios is a project of my life.”
with an efficient flourish, are placed carefully
is in the service and that the restaurant is part
Indeed the owner of the hotel, Pedro Molina,
on the starched white tablecloth, under the
of the package. For him, the final ingredient is
has wisely given the chef carte blanche,
glow of a pendant lamp that highlights the
that coveted star. “The most important thing
providing him with the necessary resources in
dish like a prized work of art. “I try to create
is to try and realise what the best service is and
order to succeed, including a farm where his
dishes with a lot of adjectives, not with a lot
work towards offering that,” he explains. “If we
ingredients are specially grown.
of ingredients,” says Iannotti. “For me, the
close the circle with the perfect service at The
design of the dish and the presentation is one
Mercer, then we need to have a good restaurant
of the things that completes the experience.”
with one Michelin star, minimum.”
The interiors might have remained the same,
The result is slick and inventive, emphasising Iannotti’s sincere and honest ethos. The Tarantino-inspired names of the two tasting menus (Mr. Black and Mr. Pink) hint at his
072
And while a stellar chef, a clever menu and an elegant, low-key setting in an impressive
www.mercerbarcelona.com
Jams 1 Hotel Central Park, New York City
Words: S. Milioti
I
t’s interesting how Jams, the new restaurant at the
Kemper Hyers, SVP of Design at Starwood Capital notes
equally new 1 Hotel Central Park, manages to be so New
that it comes down to one thing: keeping it simple. “We
York, yet at the same time, not very New York at all.
pulled out so much ‘design,’” notes Hyers, who led the
The restaurant, with its vaulted ceilings and warehouse
restaurant’s design along with AvroKO, a firm that worked
vibe — combined with its huge picture windows revealing a bustling midtown Manhattan — is clearly embedded in the
“It’s a less-is-more look, which works well with the 1
patchwork of the Big Apple. But a wide range of naturalistic
brand,” says Hyers. “It’s not about piling it on. I didn’t
elements keeps it down to earth and offers a lofty, almost
want it to look mannered, like so many hotel restaurants. It
West Coast attitude.
was about keeping the lines clean and the finishes simple,
It makes sense considering the restaurateur: Jonathan
then layering them with cues from nature. It aesthetically
Waxman, the chef who introduced California cuisine to NYC
respects what Jonathan does, which is to say with his
with his restaurant of the same name on the Upper East
spaces: ‘I found this garage, I opened the doors, I made
Side in the 1980s. Here, the focus is on fresh, unpretentious
homemade food and everyone has a good time.’ That’s the
farm-to-table finds and the design - urban-chic yet rustic
quality I wanted to capture. I wanted it to look effortless,
- reflects that ethos. The floor is concrete. The ceiling and
like you don’t have to work to understand it. Yet I put a
columns are left in their natural state, as are the unadorned
lot of focus on making sure the textures, materials, and
brick fire block walls. It’s almost all track-lit, with very few
furnishings were of great quality.”
decorative fixtures save for 1940s vintage double halophane
074
on the entire hotel in conjunction with Hyers.
Another reason for pulling out that design was to keep
industrial pendants and a huge tent-shaped glass light (in
the focus on Waxman’s legendarily simple yet appetizing
the double-height space) from Radio Guy in Peekskill, NY.
creations. A recent Friday evening dinner was heavy on the
Reclaimed white oak tables in flat tung oil finish (by NYC’s
Waxman specialties like red pepper pancakes topped with
Shimna), and vintage dining chairs reupholstered in a linen
smoked salmon, and simple grilled chicken, infused with
blend complete the picture.
the flavours of the Spanish brick oven. Pastry chef Heather
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Heath ceramic plates, La Tavola Cutlery and Masa linen napkins Photography: Katie Burton
075
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Photography: Eric Laignel
Miller was inspired to create one of the signature desserts
Bradshaw, one of AvroKO’s four partners, had to reduce
- a frozen tropical trifle, with layers of ice cream, icy sorbet
the size of his original lobby concept to accommodate the
and fresh fruit - after the city’s 26-inch February blizzard.
restaurant, which grew considerably from the original floor
It’s all served simply, but on pieces with quality and
plan. Rather than being located off the lobby, it essentially
weight, with Heath ceramic plates, Rona water glasses, La
wraps around it. Bradshaw had to make sure that the two
Tavola flatware, Masa linen napkins, Bormioli Rocco wine
elements, though disparate in size, worked well together. “We conceived of the lobby as much larger,” Bradshaw
The focus is on fresh, unpretentious farm-to-table finds and the design - urban-chic yet rustic - reflects that ethos.
says, “but in the end the challenge is the same: to make sure they work well together. It’s like you have a restaurant, but have a living room off to the side of it. In both areas, the focus was on exposing the structure. There’s a lot of exposed brick, plenty of woods and there’s stone in the
glasses, even leather cheque presenters repurposed from old leather chairs and embossed with the Jams logo. The bar is often as busy as the rest of the space, which is
lobby space and concrete in the restaurant.” Bradshaw notes that reconciling the two spaces was a challenge, but “it made for the synthesis of ideas, which
to say packed. Rough reclaimed oak pantry shelves hold the
always yields a rich experience.” In this case, it also yielded
liquor, and the wooden stools by Rich Brilliant Willing and
an inspired space.
Goodshop make a sculptural statement. The bar is an especially cavernous open space. Greg
076
www.jamsrestaurant.nyc
Martini Riserva Speciale Vermouth di Torino has been crafted using carefully selected Italian wines and unique botanicals that are rested for 2 months in traditional oak “Tino” barrels. The result: a rich, complex and balanced vermouth, perfect for the preparation of classic Italian cocktails.
ENJOY MARTINI RESPONSIBLY
© 2016. MARTINI ITS TRADE DRESS AND THE “BALL AND BAR” LOGO ARE REGISTERED TRADEMARKS.
La Maison 1888 InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula
Words: Chris Fynes
T
aking a seat at our booth, we gaze out over the sweeping panorama of a private bay, the East Vietnam Sea rolling ashore and receding in a cyclical repetition. It’s as far from the usual portrayals of Vietnamese travel as can be. Removed from the
hustle and bustle of cosmopolitan life and sheltered amongst the luxury fortress of InterContinental’s Danang Sun Peninsula Resort, the gourmet offerings of La Maison 1888 are in turn a little removed from the norm. Having been voted the World’s Leading Luxury Resort for 2015, there are high expectations regarding the experiences that await inside the gates. The resort itself can be dissected into four realms - Heaven, Sky, Earth and Sea - but the primary draw is La Maison 1888, IC Danang’s premiere restaurant. It was formerly captained by Michel Roux from its opening in 2012 and handed over to the talented hands of three Michelin-star chef, Pierre Gagnaire late last year. Owner of the world-renowned, self-titled Pierre Gagnaire in Paris, he rose to fame with his abandonment of the classics and the
d’emotions’ he states that he prefers to be, “frank and direct without
championing of fusion cuisine. Not satisfied with a conventional
being duplicitous and without affectation, whilst conducting his
approach to flavour, texture and ingredients, Gagnaire asks
kitchen orchestra in a score of virtuoso savoir-faire.” In simple terms,
questions of his diner’s palates, purposely looking for reactions to
he describes his work as a combination of “art, love and technique.”
his incongruous concepts. For that reason, it would seem a fitting
fine white bone china for every course. Gagnaire’s equivalent to an
Maison 1888, an establishment with contrast at its heart.
artist’s easel and canvas. These details not only act to cement a mark
The black and white design of Bangkok-based architect Bill Bensley flows through the entirety of this hillside retreat - including the F&B spaces - and is based on the concept of an antique French
of quality but convey a considered relationship with Bensley’s concept for the interior. The tasting menu, La Maison’s ‘Espirit Pierre Gagnaire’, is
mansion. A private dining space, Le Boudoir de Madame, provides the
a meticulously crafted harmony of Vietnamese produce, with a
arena for Gagnaire’s tasting menu, a series of eight courses involving
supporting cast from more familiar horizons, helping to ensure that
juxtaposing combinations.
the menu’s adventurousness and creativity can be delivered with the
As Gagnaire says, his mission is to, “transcend the raw material and reveal its true substance.” Guided by the pull of ‘un principe
078
Japanese cutlery from La Tavola frames Narumi’s black-accented,
application of this creative attitude that he should now reside at La
full force, flavour and finesse that Gagnaire demands of his ingredients. Each dish is playful yet created with purpose. Grey shrimp
MAIN COURSE
consommé plays host to oyster with accompanying green apple and
miniature tasting menu of five desserts. Whether it be the pistachio
cauliflower, whilst a cucumber and cheese sorbet slowly smoulders
and Dulcey chocolate parfait with chocolate and coffee soup and olive
atop a fruit tartar, providing the refreshing intermezzo ahead of Nha
oil dacquoise, or the pineapple carpaccio with basil, cheesecake cream
Trang lobster fricassee paired with brown butter, white onions, white
and lychee, each ingredient is deserving of its place and slowly reveals
lard and a coconut lobster bisque.
itself as the flavour develops with the help of a fresh 2011 Saint Albert,
Long slender-stemmed glassware lines the table, keeping watch over proceedings, adding to the theatrics and mirroring the height of
Pacherenc du Vic Bilh. Delivering an intentioned guest experience Bensley’s design
the vaulted mansion ceilings above. There is a regimented decanting
ensures that following the finale at La Maison 1888, the only way to
of fine French wine to partner each dish – the menu continuing with
return to reality outside of the retreat is to proceed via ‘Heaven’.
creamy morel cocottes with Vietnamese coffee, asparagus tip, soursop
Fully aware of the role France plays in this land’s history, it may
and sugar snap; followed by rack of lamb with couscous broth, date,
not be the most surprising contrast to find a French gem in the hills
fig, apricot, raisin and a turmeric potato waffle.
of East Vietnam’s coastline. However, inside it certainly asks the
If it’s transcendence that Pierre is looking for however, it’s the
questions that diners are more than happy to answer.
Gagnaire Grand Dessert that encapsulates the full spirit of his work, enveloping multiple flavours, techniques and textures into a
www.danang.intercontinental.com
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Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol
Words: Harry McKinley
A
irport hotels are fundamentally about service
drinking venue slot together under a 42-metre high
and function. The often fleeting nature of
glazed roof that forms the crown of the central atrium,
the guest – on a stopover or business trip
perhaps the hotel’s most remarkable architectural
– means a focus on facilities can trump the
feature. With its fluid, almost Bauhaus lines, it forms an
flourishes that frequently make for a truly dynamic guest
impression of scale and gravitas. LED lighting transitions
experience. At the Hilton Amsterdam Schiphol, however,
from bright white to strips of deep colour, transforming
guests can ‘expect the unexpected’ in a hotel that
the mood from day to night.
combines bold design, contemporary thinking and F&B spaces that are more than mere pit stop. Architectural firm Mecanoo was responsible for the
Through the use of laser-cut timber screens and varying
build of the hotel, which comprises 433 rooms and
patterned carpets, interior design agency The Gallery
1700 square metres of event and meeting space. It’s a
HBA has created a sense of delineation. These thoughtful
commanding structure and, with is distinctive exterior
gestures retain a sense of openness but create pockets of
pattern and a-typical forms, it strikes a daring note on
intimacy and purpose.
an otherwise drab airport skyline. A covered walkway,
The menu is extensive, recognising the diversity of
the ‘Traverse’, connects guests directly with the airport’s
needs a lobby bar must satisfy. But with a particular
terminals.
leaning towards gin, for example, is also displays
Axis, Hilton Amsterdam Schiphol’s bar, will be the first
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Despite the expansiveness, Axis isn’t simply a bar counter in a sea of seating, but rather its own island.
personality. Bartenders in relaxed uniforms from Dutch
interaction with the hotel’s F&B offer for many – not
Apparel – think witty denim flat caps and bow ties - are
just led by the desire to imbibe post-flight, but because
ripe with drinking suggestions and able to wax lyrical
it forms part of the open plan, multifunctional ground
on the plethora of spirits at hand, from local batches to
floor space. Here check-in, concierge, seating spots and
international favourites.
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Axis Bar Photography: Hufton+Crow
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Bowery Restaurant Photography: Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol
From the covered walkway drawing guests in, to the escalators and steps that help piece together mezzanines and balconies, there is an intentioned sense of uncluttered interconnectivity. It’s equally apparent
hit the travelator, but from the design to the quality of dining, Bowery creates an impression intended to last. At the end of the long stretch that forms the restaurant nestles the
in the hotel’s restaurant, Bowery, which doesn’t hide behind walls but
Vine Room, a 20-cover private dining room. A discreetly disguised
flows from the lobby space, curving along the front of the building.
entrance affords an element of exclusivity – an opening floor-to-ceiling
With 225-covers, Bowery forms the F&B backbone of the hotel.
mirrored panel within the mirror-clad wall that seemingly provides the
Executive chef Edwin van den Heijkant oversees a menu that springs effortlessly from continent to continent with Asian classics and Dutch
end point to Bowery. Although an extension of the restaurant, the Vine Room differs
specialities. The restaurant’s name is derived from the Dutch word for
extensively in look and feel. The accents of blue and easy minimalism
farm and this presents itself through fresh local produce and a nod to
are replaced with black surfaces and a bespoke wine display wall. Dutch
seasonality.
chandeliers by Moooi hang from the ceiling and an original work by
A series of open kitchens line the restaurant, each focused on a
Armando – from Schiphol Group’s art collection - adorns the wall.
different culinary chapter of Bowery’s menu – from a grill kitchen to an
There’s an air of lavishness that provides an appealing counterpoint
Asian kitchen. Each features its own tiled wall adorned with illustrations
to Bowery’s clean informality. Here plates and dishes from Serax and
from Israel Paez that articulate the kitchen’s identity whilst pulling the
cutlery from Studio William continue the sense of distinction.
workspaces together under a common aesthetic. It’s a creative touch
At Schiphol, Hilton is demonstrating a modernity in its approach
that emphasises the open kitchens as theatrical, as well as practical
to hotel development and this is reflected in F&B destinations that
galleries from which guests can observe the buzz of a dinner service. In
wouldn’t feel out of place in a city centre. Amsterdam is a mere 15
the evening the energy of the chefs and the cooking process filters out
minutes away by train but, on the whole, the traditional hotel offer
into the restaurant creating a dynamic air.
means the two locations can feel worlds apart. With airport hotels
Villeroy & Boch provide Bowery’s tableware and also collaborated with
travellers are often used to service at the expense of experience,
the restaurant on a series of mugs highlighting Paez’s work. Glassware
convenience in exchange for character, but Hilton Amsterdam Airport
is from Luigi Bormioli and cutlery from Studio William.
Schiphol manages to combine these elements. In doing so it not only
It is with Bowery that Hilton Amsterdam Schiphol sets itself apart and presents its manifesto: to be more than one expects from an airport-
defines itself as a go-to choice but demonstrates an attitude towards development that translates to guests of all nationalities.
based hotel. It isn’t a restaurant conceived with transience in mind. Of course from a functional perspective, one can grab a quick bite and
082
www3.hilton.com
SPREAD
Into the Unexpected Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol is a hotel at an airport, but not a typical airport hotel. It created F&B for a design focused, culturally rich, executive oriented destination, sitting atop a global transportation hub. The journey of a guest through a hotel’s F&B is not only a culinary adventure, but a multi sensory exploration. In every bite and sip one should be offered a taste of the hotel’s essence and gain a better understanding of its identity. With multidisciplinary design studio Studio Appétit, we imagine that journey.
A Welcome Drink at Axis Gin Sul with Fever Tree Mediterranean Tonic Glassware: Luigi Bormioli Tableware: Limited Edition by Studio Appétit in collaboration with Hilla Shamia
Take a Seat at Bowery Restaurant Plates: Serax Cutlery: Broggi Glassware: Luigi Bormioli
Dutch Blue Inspiration Executive Chef: Edwin van den Heijkant Plates: Serax Cutlery: Broggi Glassware: Luigi Bormioli
Location: Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol Concept & Production: Studio Appétit Styling & Art direction: -ISM by Studio Appétit Photography: Studio Appétit studioappetit.com
Nagelhout Croatian roast beef cured with spices
Smoked Rib Eye almonds, mozzarella, panko, tomato
Bowery Bread by Desemenzo
Tuna Tataki sesame, avocado, ponzu
Umami Oyster cucumber, radish, black pepper
Beef Tartare mustard, shallot, truffle
Seasonal Garden red beetroot, quinoa, carrot, celery
Salty liquorice coins
Broken cinnamon candy sticks
Pate de Fruit: rye whiskey and anise flavoured, custom
Diamond shaped chocolate made from 100% cocoa Oialla organic chocolate.
Narcisse: gold mirror diamond presentation plates. Engraved acrylic with solid wood base by Studio Appétit
Black doughnuts made with burnt corn peal coal natural colouring and cedar smoked sugar glaze.
Creamy diamond pastry with diamond top
The Diamond Suite The diamond shaped wood inlay parquet flooring - from Bohemian Works and interior designers The Gallery HBA - is custom made for the hotel’s suite and is inspired by acclaimed Dutch artist M.C. Escher. It continues the diamond inspiration that exists throughout the hotel’s design.
Confections: Ido Garini for Studio Appétit For future issues of Supper we are seeking to collaborate with hotel F&B outlets, chefs, bartenders, suppliers, creative agencies and food stylists. Please contact us for further details.
JACKETS
•
APRONS
•
PANTS
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SHIRTS
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HEADWEAR
Dressing Hospitality Professionals Across the Globe
www.chefworks.com
La Grande Table Marocaine The Royal Mansour, Marrakech
Words: Renate Ruge
S
teps from the maze of 3,000 tiny
carved cedarwood, stained glass, intricate
tastes, shapes and textures all inspire me.”
winding derbs (alleyways) of the
stuccowork, beaten bronze and inlaid
His gastronomic vision blends contemporary
medina, lined with fruit stalls and open
marquetry in every one of the 53 terracotta-
flavours with traditional Moroccan culinary
sacks of brightly-coloured spice, the
coloured private riads.
heritage. “It’s a real pleasure to develop
whirr of mopeds and cries of market traders,
my cuisine through a different culture and
is the Royal Palace of Marrakech. Cross the
includes dinner fit for a king, served up under
the revival of its gastronomy. Morocco is an
road and you’ll find another palace. This time
the sophisticated watch of three Michelin-
endless source of inspiration, pushing me to
a luxury hotel designed in the style of a mini
starred French chef, Yannick Alléno, Gault
perfection and to discover the wealth of the
medina. An orange tree lined boulevard leads
Millau’s Chef of the Year 2015 and culinary
Arabian Nights.”
us to the imposing Royal Mansour.
mastermind behind the F&B offering. Here he
Known as the master of reinvention,
As you enter there’s instant sanctuary
draws up the blueprint for the three Tables,
hard work and precision lie at the core of
and respite from the heat and dusty streets.
the spa, and in-riad dining. There is also the
Alleno’s craft and ideology, which is why Le
The scent of rose petals fills the air of the
option to request supper in the comfort of the
Grand Table Marocaine now counts among
courtyard, the coolness thanks to walls tiled
riads for a private dining experience.
the country’s top tables and is the jewel in
with a stark white zellij (geometric mosaic)
‘The Prince of the Palaces’, presides over
Royal Mansour’s culinary crown. It’s at this
flecked with blue. Occasional dark wood
a string of other restaurants around the
progressive Morrocan fine dining room we
furniture is carefully placed around a criss-
world including Le Meurice, Le Dali and
sit down for supper. Grandeur pervades every
cross of watery walkways leading to a trickling
Terroir Parisien, his own bistro in Paris, Le
nook of the restaurant, with rich velvet drapes
fountain at its centre. All is tranquil.
1947 in Courchevel, the One & Only at The
and drop crystal chandeliers from Lalique,
Palm in Dubai, the Shangri-La in Beijing and
Baccarat and Venice. It is indeed a scene
commissioned hundreds of artisan tradesmen
restaurant concepts in the Beirut Souks and
straight from Arabian Nights.
to take inspiration from, and blend the
Taipei, Taiwan.
King Mohammed VI of Morocco himself
best elements of, all of his palaces to create
092
By royal command the lavish experience
“I love to adapt my creativity to different
Chef Alléno has immersed himself in local domestic cooking. “Moroccan cuisine is
this gleaming example of North African
markets,” says Alléno. “My many travels
visceral, even emotional – it took me right
extravagance. Behind its stately bronze doors,
inspire me. I love playing with ingredients,
out of my usual way of thinking,” he says. “I
interiors by designers Nicolas Papamiltiades
trying new things, incorporating new flavours,
had to learn the techniques and references
and Fabrice Bourg include huge bronze
tasting, transforming, shaping the product and
behind familiar dishes such as tajine and
lanterns, exquisite honey and cream mosaics,
coming up with new recipes. Smells, colours,
pastilla to bring me to a new understanding
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xxx
093
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Gold rimmed plates from Bernardaud
of the immense scope of Moroccan flavours,
and long, clear stems. Tiny vases of crimson
with spinach and tangy cheese, marinated king
not just for savoury dishes, but for patisserie
roses jostle for attention.
prawns, lamb flavoured with mint and chicken
too: working with sugar and the importance of honey and the variety of spices.” Working closely with Executive Chef Jerôme
tass, is brought to the table for the ritual
with honey and almonds. Though the royal pigeon pastilla is the show
hand washing marking the start of our feast.
stealer: buttery crunch on the outside and
Videau and Restaurant Chef Karim Benbaba
Fragrant orange blossom and rose water is
stunning flavoursome game meat on the inside.
on maintaining the integrity of local tradition,
poured from a m’risaht – similar to a teapot
Alléno says, “It’s a matter of knowing how to
for a quick hand rinse. If you close your eyes
punctuated by pungent purple olives with
enhance Moroccan flavours, which are already
and make a wish, it’s said to bring good luck.
saffron potatoes, then a mouth-watering
intense. This country and its produce give so
We oblige.
lamb tagine with parsley, olives and delicious
much in terms of flavour, colour, subtlety and
A profusion of dishes comes one after
More food arrives; delicate sea bream
preserved lemon.
honesty. In fact, to bring this kind of cooking
another – a succession of unexpected flavours
into the realm of fine dining is to betray what
and a unique gourmet experience. A flurry
rose jelly make for a sweet finish. The Orange
it stands for, in a way.”
of Moroccan salads arrives delivered by
Pearls with dates, mint and cinnamon
waiters wearing traditional Jellaba (for men)
transports right back to those fruit stalls of the
is leisurely. The table is lower than average. We
and elegant silk caftans for ladies. Service
medina, where old men sell fat juicy oranges.
sit comfortably on a gold brocade banquette
is impeccable and hyper-discreet, as you’d
Fresh mint tea in polished silver pots is
on one side of the table, which is strewn with
expect. The behind-the-scenes team is just
poured from a great height into traditional
plump velvet cushions and face our dinner
that: seldom seen as they scurry around via a
gold leaf trimmed glasses to wash it all down.
partners sat in grand studded carver chairs on
network of subterranean passages.
According to local custom, the pace of dining
the other.
The salad course elicits an enthusiastic
Desserts like red fruits chlada with delicate
Post dinner, guests pass the fumoir where patrons sip XO Cognac and puff wispy clouds
The pewter tabletop has an intricate pattern
response as small beautiful plates of aubergine
of smoke from fine Montecristo cigars. The
that gleams in the light of the flickering flame
Zaâlouk, orange with beetroot, mechouia-style
rooftop beckons to wind down next to a private
of occasional candles. It’s set with chunky solid
bell peppers, purple artichokes and lemon and
pool and fireplace, where nightcaps can be
silver cutlery by Saint-Joanis. Plates and bowls,
olives from the souk, turnip from Agafay, dried
savoured looking up at the starry sky and
white with a thin gold trim around the rim,
tomato and fresh coriander courgette salad
listening as the haunting call to prayer rings
are from Bernardaud, JL Coquet and Raynaud.
make a refreshing and colourful start.
out across the city.
Toasts are raised in crystal glasses from SaintLouis and Schott Zwiesel, with ruby red cups
094
The traditional gleaming silver vessel, a
Small briouates – parcels and cigar-like shaped cylindrical savoury pastries– are filled
www.royalmansour.com
Elegant textiles for hospitality
www.ingridlesagecreations.com
Octopus cooked over a wood fire
096
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Le George Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris
Words: Adrian Moore
T
he Four Seasons Hotel George V has always
The new incarnation, known as Le George, is a
been a world-class leader in the hospitality
luminous dining room looking out onto the interior
industry, as much for the high standards of
marble courtyard, designed, like the rest of the hotel,
its rooms and amenities as for its gastronomic
by Pierre-Yves Rochon.
offerings. Its gourmet restaurant, Le Cinq, has hosted
An entranceway of black metal framework,
high level French chefs such as Philippe Legendre
embedded with Lalique crystal panels, opens onto
and Eric Briffard. With charismatic world champion
an ivory and white dining room with vaulted ceiling,
sommelier Eric Beaumard as its director, it has
well spaced tables covered in brown leather (no
always drawn top talents, recently culminating
tablecloths here), and supremely comfy Damask
in a three star Michelin rating under most recent
upholstered wing chairs and 1930s grey leather
chef, and former Ledoyen chef de cuisine, Christian
armchairs.
Lesquer. To ensure optimum quality, all other dining
Light from the interior Marble Courtyard is
outlets fall under the command of the head chef -
filtered through made-to-measure grey cashmere
including La Galerie (run by the talented and aspiring
curtains, and the easy on the foot carpeting is
David Bizet), Le Bar, and all aspects of room service.
straight from the archives of the venerable French
It is quite the foodie event then that the hotel
house of Branbuenié. The room is given a surprisingly
has recently launched its first new restaurant since
contemporary touch with optic illusion ‘paper
it reopened its doors a decade and a half ago, in
sculpture’ paintings from artist Junior Fritz Jacquet,
what was most recently the Salon Anglais private
rounded out by Artistic Director Jeff Leatham’s
function room, and formerly the first restaurant
elegant, sometimes provocative floral arrangements.
to open in the original Hotel George V, the luxury
His installations often provoke ‘oohs and ahhs’ from
brasserie Les Princes.
diners..
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The cherry on this opulent design cake is
healthy. Tuna crudo, with petals of black
by General Manager José Silva and with
truffle; onion “tarte tatin” with parmesan
chandelier, also conceived by Rochon for the
whom he worked at the Four Seasons Hotel
sorbet and an astoundingly fresh langoustine
Lalique house. In the coming months, a seven-
Les Bergues, has an impressive culinary
with Mostarda di Cremona (an ancient north
metre high, glass enclosed ‘orangerie’ will
background. He earned his first Michelin star
Italian concoction wherein preserved fruit is
give guests the opportunity to dine year-round
at the age of 29 in his native Tuscany, and
marinated with mustard oil or seed) are but a
in the marble courtyard, protected from the
a few years later in 2005, was named young
few of the dishes on the menu.
elements.
Italian chef of the year by the Gambero Rosso
Whilst the defining characteristic of
guide. While working at Les Bergues, he also
his cooking is simplicity, chef Garfagnini
Parisian. The majority of diners come from
obtained a Michelin star rating for its fine
says, “I use the best products available to
around town, with only 20% hotel residents.
dining establishment Il Lago and opened an
me and promote the product in its purest
This mostly local crowd are doted upon
innovative rooftop Japanese fusion restaurant
form. I don’t want to disguise it or hide
by Director Quentin Garreau de Labarre
called Izumi, which remains to this day one of
it in any way.” He does feel lucky to be at
(formerly number two at Le Cinq) and the
the Swiss city’s most coveted tables.
the epicentre of the gastronomic world,
The ambiance is subtle, relaxed and
charming Vanessa Bonnaud, who for years
Le George was created with the idea of
especially being able to use the best produce
catered to every whim and caprice of the
providing a modern French and Mediterranean
from his own country as well as the south
world’s most famous fashion designers, stars
table with a distinctly Parisian vibe, a
of France, and while the majority of his
and billionaires at the legendary avenue
‘convivial gastronomic experience’. The light
cooks are Italian, there are also teammates
Montagne restaurant L’Avenue. It’s a brilliant
and healthy dishes, meant to be shared, are
from Ireland, Korea and Japan. All adhere
move to ensure a star-studded clientele.
composed of crudos, vegetables and fresh
to the same values: “A good work ethic and
pasta, which is made twice daily. Risotto is
atmosphere are absolutely essential in the
made to order.
kitchen.”
The cuisine, described by the hotel as “a journey between the French Riviera and northern Italy”, is thanks to Marco
098
Chef Marco, who was brought over
a breathtaking 2½-metre Baccarat crystal
Although many of its style-savvy
Garfagnini - born in Carrara, the same town
mannequin-sized guests may be calorie
from which the majority of the hotel’s marble
conscious, the food satisfies on many levels,
is sourced.
embracing fine dining while remaining
It makes for eminently satisfied customers as well. www.legeorge.com
Supper Final Advert 3.indd 1
07/04/2016 15:04
DESSERTS
Dessert Restaurant at The Café Hotel Café Royal, London
Diners with a sweet tooth will be celebrating the launch of London’s
The carefully orchestrated menus feature a range of savoury bites
first dessert restaurant at the Hotel Café Royal. Devised by the
to cleanse the palate, followed by sweet creations designed to dazzle.
hotel’s executive pastry chef, Sarah Barber, the concept features
“The ‘Jaffa Cake’ is served in a woodland forest with mandarin
a series of tasting menus inspired by childhood memories and the
chocolate mushrooms,” explains Barber, who also puts her creative
whimsy of Lewis Carroll.
spin on rhubarb and custard, and an elevated ‘Snickers’ bar. “These
A respected figure in the F&B industry, Barber has honed her craft internationally, most recently as executive pastry chef at Corinthia
are flavours I remember growing up and the idea is to create sweet memories the guest will cherish.”
Hotel, and previously as head pastry chef at ME London Hotel,
Each menu features an optional wine pairing, with varieties
Yauatcha and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, as well as holding
selected to complement the sweet flavour profiles, including Prosecco
positions at Mandarin Oriental, The Ritz and The Connaught.
di Valdobbiadene, Henriques y Henriques from Madeira and a range
“We felt there was a gap in the market and that it was time to
of traditional dessert wines such as Château Roumieu, Sauternes.
give desserts a temple,” Barber says. “The concept is built around a journey and creating a tasting experience.”
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www.hotelcaferoyal.com
SIPPING
“Cocktail making is about putting your inspiration on the bar. It is about the journey that you go through as a creator, and part of that journey is taking your guest along with you.� Ariel Leizgold
COCKTAILS
White Linen The Crosby Bar Crosby Street Hotel, New York City
The Crosby Bar in NYC stretches from Crosby Street at the front to Lafayette Street at the back. A spacious room with high ceilings, long pewter bar, grey oak floors and tall warehousestyle windows looking out to the trees at the hotel’s entrance, it has a vibrant buzz and flows into an all day dining space. Part of the Firmdale Group of boutique hotels, Crosby Street manages to combine British charm with Big Apple attitude and so it’s fitting that one of the bar’s signature cocktails features quitessentially anglo-flavours with a little added bite. The White Linen features a classic combination of Hendricks gin, cucumber, egg white, lemon juice and sugar: blended, poured over ice and topped with a generous sprinkle of cracked black pepper. www.designhotels.com
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A NE W P R E M I U M R A NG E O F D E L I C AT E LY C A R B O NAT E D FRU I T D R I NK S M A D E W I T H P U R E FRU I T J U I C E S. Available in four timeless flavours: Apple, Pear & Elderflower Sparkling Raspberry, Sparkling Ginger and St Clements Orange & Lemon.
SALES@FROBISHERS.COM T: 01392 825333 @FROBISHERS #FROBISHERSCLASSICS W W W. F RO B I S H E R S .CO M
27105 Frobishers_Classics 236x275.indd 1
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COCKTAILS xxx
Mare Nostrum Maraska Lounge Bar Sun Gardens, Dubrovnik
Situated six miles from Dubrovnik, Sun Gardens is a five star resort on the Adriatic Coast, boasting views of the Adriatic Sea and the Elafiti Islands. Known for its inventive cocktails, the resort’s various bars serve up original creations from bar manager Mirko Strazicic. The Mare Nostrum is one of Sun Gardens’ two signature cocktails and derives its name from the Latin for ‘our sea’. Described by Strazicic as, “a light yet powerful mix with a refreshing scent of herbs and fruits,” it features a combination of Gin Mare, orange liqueur, Blue Curacao, 1724 Tonic, fresh grape juice and a mint reduction. www.dubrovniksungardens.com
SIGNATURE | EXPORT STRENGTH | DISTILLER’S CUT Premium London dry gin craft distilled in the heart of England using eleven of the world’s finest botanicals. Incredibly crisp and fresh the Burleighs unique recipe includes silver birch, dandelion, burdock and elderberries.
A TRULY ARTISAN CREATION www.burleighsgin.com
COCKTAILS xxx
The VirGIN Bar Brasserie OCCO The Dylan, Amsterdam
The Dylan’s newly reopened and refurbished Bar Brasserie OCCO is aiming to cement its position on the map as one of Amsterdam’s premier mixology destinations. With a succinct list of signature cocktails, each option is intended to provide a surprising twist on a classic. The traditional Bloody Mary is reimagined with fermented tomatoes and carrots, while ‘A Fisher’s Friend’ is an inventive take on an Old Fashioned, featuring chocolate bitters. Perhaps the most novel, however, is The VirGin. Made with the bar’s own non-alcoholic gin, it is served on the rocks with lime and Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic. www.occo.nl
HANDCR AF TED NATUR AL SPIRIT 56 Sunbeam Road, London, NW10 6JQ +44 (0) 20 3602 9980 info@bimber.co.uk www.bimberdistillery.co.uk
The St. Regis Bar St. Regis Dubai
Words: Harry McKinley
T
he St. Regis Dubai was the first to open of several
But of all of the destinations within the hotel it is perhaps
hotels at Al Habtoor City, a $3 billion mixed-use
the St. Regis Bar that feels most distinct. A wood-
development that straddles Sheikh Zayed Road and
adorned space on the ground floor, it exudes a traditional
the soon-to-open Dubai Water Canal.
atmosphere that harks to New York City’s Gilded Age - the
Anyone with a lasting familiarity with the city will
remember what stood before. The Metropolitan was one of Dubai’s oldest hotels, it’s quaint but dated pink façade
equivalent. The interior was led by Hong Kong-based Bilkey Llinas
completely at odds with the gleaming high-rises of nearby
Design (BLD) and brought to fruition by Khatib & Alami,
Business Bay. It often struck an amusingly discordant
one of the region’s most prominent architectural firms.
note on journeys from one side of the city to the other, a souvenir from a Dubai that has long since moved on. It’s unsurprising that was has replaced it is a vision of
With a theme of ‘speed and sport’, the space features a myriad of polo-inspired elements. Leather saddles are repurposed as decorative objects; previously ridden by the
modern grandeur and pomp. Far from a faded remnant,
hotel’s owner Mr Mohammed Al Habtoor, Al Habtoor Group
the St. Regis Dubai sits proud and resolute, a beaux-arts
vice chairman and CEO. The equine inspiration continues in
monolith at the end of a striking, garden-lined drive. It
the sculptural pieces that dot the wooden shelves and heavy
may be smaller in stature than some of the city’s cloud-
furnishings.
embracing stays, but it nonetheless makes a bold statement.
For the artwork, Dubai-based consultants Ophelia
With its own fleet of Bentleys circling outside, the aura is
sourced a number of exclusive pieces. A mix of polo-themed
one of expensive exclusivity. If the Metropolitan was old
and abstract works hangs both in the main space and the
Dubai - or as old as its possible to be in the ‘City of Gold’ -
glass-fronted cigar lounge, where guests can retire to
then the St. Regis is unashamedly new Dubai.
sample the venue’s fine Cuban selection. It’s a refined,
Inside a sweeping grand stairway, marble floors and
social space where a curved leather banquette draws
crystal chandeliers complete the image. In terms of F&B
together groups of guests. The ambience is one of stately
the hotel is well stocked. Among the options are a French
homeliness: more private study than hotel bar.
brasserie, steakhouse, 1930s Parisian café, champagne
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bright lights of Manhattan swapped for the Middle Eastern
Behind the bar purples and oranges undulate in a mural
lounge and a spot for afternoon tea overlooking the gardens
by local artist Roberto Raad. Art Deco in style, it features an
and lobby.
interpretive take on a Bentley Mulsanne and continues the
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St. Regis tradition of featuring murals inspired
with Worcestershire sauce and a slick of fresh
City, he also be heads up the newly adjacent W
by the hotels’ location. Alongside, the more
celery.
Dubai and Westin hotels.
lavish spirits sit framed in inset cabinets, on
For a space that prides itself on its richness
view but secured by lock and key. A bottle of
the traditions of the region with date paste,
and detail, the St. Regis Bar embodies a
Hennessey Paradis and Johnnie Walker Blue
rose infused vodka, pickle jalapeños and
relaxed sensibility. Despite the polished
Label peer out from behind glass.
tomato juice made from the golden variant as
exactness, there’s little that feels stiff or
opposed to the usual red. In a flourish befitting
uninviting. Guests sink into bulky leather
Bottles huddle together on a single shelf. With
of the city’s moniker, gold dust floats liberally
sofas and armchairs, the lighting is warm and
such ornate surroundings, there’s a pleasant,
atop the mix, the flaxen flakes catching
considered, and there’s an air of privacy that
classic ease to it. Bartenders mill behind the
the light and clinging to the cubes of ice in
feels all the more remarkable considering the
counter ready to strike up conversation. St.
clusters.
grandness of the hotel at large.
The back bar itself is an unfussy affair.
Regis worked primarily with African + Eastern,
Glassware is a mix of Stölzle, Villeroy &
Dubai is not a city to shy away from
and also with MMI, to supply the drinks offer,
Boch, Waterford Crystal, Silo and Eisch. Riedel
ostentation and this can sometimes present
which includes Remy Martin, Louis XIII, King
decanters catch the eye on entry - on display
itself in F&B spaces that feel imposing but
George V and Hennessy as signature brands.
as ornamental pieces awaiting an order of
impersonal. The St. Regis Bar isn’t an exercise
quality red.
in understatement, but it is executed with a
More signature to St. Regis than any liquor range, however, is the Bloody Mary. A quick
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Dubai’s version, the Golden Mary, plays on
As well as a substantial but curated drinks
sense of commitment, an eye to intimacy and
skirt of the menu reveals regional options
menu, overseen by head mixologist Ilhan
with a well-conceived concept. It culminates
from the St. Regis Rome, Florence and New
Beser, the bar offers a variety of nibbles. Served
in an experience that manages to live up to the
York. Each is local twist on the classic, the
on dishes from Bernardaud and with cutlery
expectations of the first St. Regis in Dubai and
Mary Terranean (Rome) featuring olive oil
from Sambonet, Octopus croquettes, wagyu
set itself apart in a region all-too-familiar with
and oregano; the Bloody Brunello (Florence)
sliders and short ribs with mac and cheese are
luxury bar and restaurant spaces.
grappa, honey and rosemary; and the original
some of the options devised by Chef Stephane
Red Snapper (New York) a taste of tradition
Bulchholzer. Culinary director for Al Habtoor
www.stregisbardubai.com
SAVE THE DATE
NOVEMBER 13-15, 2016 JAVITS CENTER, NYC
WWW.THEHOTELEXPERIENCE.US STAY CONNECTED:
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Experience Distilled Neil Macdonald is brand experience director for Chivas Brothers and, as he tells us, customers want more than just a drink these days - they want a story. Words: Dominic Roskrow
I
t’s one thing serving a customer a Plymouth Gin in your bar, but it’s quite another to be able to share your experience of sipping a gin and tonic in Plymouth Gin Distillery’s Refectory Bar - the very room that the Pilgrim Fathers stayed in the night before they boarded The Mayflower and set off
for America. That’s the view of Neil Macdonald, who is responsible for meeting the
demands of an ever-growing number of distillery visitors, for welcoming on-trade staff from across the country to the distilleries, and training bar managers, restaurant staff, company personnel, and a growing legion of brand ambassadors on the provenance and heritage behind his brands. It says much about the growing importance of drinks tourism that Macdonald has been tasked with making sure that the company’s two gin and four whisky distilleries with visitor centres offer an experience every bit as good or better than the competition. He has been involved with the marketing of Chivas Brothers and what was Campbell Distillers for more than 20 years, most recently with the prestigious Royal Salute brand. He is relishing the challenge, arguing that drinks tourism is in its infancy. “I think we’re just starting and the challenge will be how to accommodate all the people wishing to visit,” he says. “Increasingly people want more than just the brand, they want a story, too. When they buy a drink in a bar they want to have experienced that drink in the place where it was made, and to have met the people behind it.” Macdonald says that a growing number of bar managers and staff are taking the opportunity to learn about the brands they are serving in situ, whether it
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be in a whisky distillery on the island of Orkney
“Whisky tourists are a mix of people, some
from the setting you’re in. But it’s the simple
or the Refectory Bar at Plymouth Gin Distillery.
who want to learn about a complex subject
extra experiences you might have from
They’re doing so because their customers,
such as whisky, and some who already enjoy
visiting a distillery. At Aberlour, for instance,
faced with so much choice within the drinks
whisky, and are searching for something new
you can taste the whisky from both a sherry
industry, are seeking out brands with
and exciting. Many are coming to see if they
and bourbon cask. But we also have a cask of
provenance and heritage. “Getting the visitor
can buy something from the distillery they
sherry there too, so that you can draw the link
experience right is absolutely essential because
can’t get elsewhere.
between the sherry and the whisky from a
that experience is part of what any drink
“But the whole community benefits from
sherry cask.”
brand stands for, and what that brand is. It’s
these visitors. When we reopened the distillery
important to keep learning, finding out more,
facilities at the Scapa distillery on Orkney the
the Internet mean that even the non-traveller
evolving and staying ahead of the game.”
whole community got involved. You’re asking
can benefit from what is a renewed thirst for
people to go a long way but if the experience of
information and knowledge,
Whisky tourism has been big business for some years now, and the leading producers
doing so is a great one, everyone benefits.”
Macdonald also argues that social media and
“The experiences of those 100,000 can be shared on the Internet and social media and
Their customers, faced with so much choice within the drinks industry, are seeking out brands with provenance and heritage.
we want millions of people to find out about the places our spirits come from, to hear their stories and to share the information with their customers and friends.” Meanwhile Macdonald says it is in the
are in friendly competition to make their
interests of staff in any on trade outlet
offering bigger and better than their rivals. But
Chivas Brothers with visitor centres hosted
including hotels to stake the trouble to learn
Macdonald’s view is that the larger the number
100,000 people last year - modest when
about how the drinks they are serving are
of brands, and therefore competitors there are,
compared to some other companies. It’s worth
made.
the better it is for anyone.
the effort, though, because nothing matches
“The large number of craft gins benefits the whole category because it means that people are talking about gin rather than vodka,
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Macdonald says that the six distilleries of
“Education is massively important,” he says.
the first hand experience of tasting a drink in
“Especially with a drink like whisky, which can
the place it’s from.
be a daunting subject. It can be appear to be
“It’s called perceptive expectation,
very complicated and difficult to understand.
and that presents an opportunity to offer
and it refers to the way your brain makes
Being able to simplify any drink will help the
something different and new.
assumptions about how something will taste
sales of it.”
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Diplomรกtico Ambassador
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A Rum Resurgence The rum category is benefiting from some tender loving care. We look at how it’s targeting whisky and brandy as a premium spirit Words: Dominic Roskrow
W
hat a difference a decade makes.Ten years
is, though, you can’t please all people all of the time and if
ago rum was white and light, the owner of
one category is catching the public imagination more than
Macallan single malt whisky was arguing that
another, inevitably there will be a straggler.
darkness was being banished to the edge of
town, and spirits producers were tripping the light fantastic. Now we’re not quite back in black, but if the world of
For a long time dark rum was it. Where in most cases heritage and history count for a great deal, for a long time the heavy imagery associated with dark rum was a
spirits had a theme song, it would start with the line ‘hello
millstone round its neck. The old British naval associations
darkness my old friend.’ And of all spirits categories, the
looked at best quaint and outdated, and at worst hinted at
most surprising renaissance of all is that of dark rum.
something just a little bit unpleasant, with the faint whiff of
Rum has been on a slow burn for some years now. Once
grog, sweat and brutality.
somewhat frivolously positioned as a party mixing drink,
While trendy party-goers turned to white rums, lighter
it began its reinvention with the launch of spiced rums in
rums and spiced rums, dark rum just seemed to sit there,
the 1990s. Light rums started to be taken more seriously at
festering, and metaphorically dreaming of better days when
the start of the millennium. Now, with the backing of some
there would always be an England.
ardent supporters and spirits experts, it’s on the verge of a
Something has changed though, as Matthieu Delassus
remarkable turnaround as drinks enthusiasts seek out fine
of West Indian rum distributor Spiridom explains. “Our
and individual dark rums from a host of South and Central
view is that the general outlook for rum has never been so
American countries, as well as the better known islands of
good,” he says. “In each of our markets, lights are turning
The West Indies.
to green, with a surging interest from professionals and
Rum is in a unique position as while other spirits are overwhelmingly dark, light or white, rum can be all three. Throw in category distractions such as spiced rums and you’re looking at one very versatile spirit drink. Trouble
individuals, and more especially for premium and super premium aged rums. “Evidence is easy to find for this developing trend simply with the multiplication of rum festivals all over the world.
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Diplomรกtico Rum ageing cellars
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We have recently participated in rum festivals in London,
launched two single cane estate rums which are designed
Milan, Madrid, Paris, Copenhagen, Lucerne, Hong Kong,
to further segment the rum category, accelerate the move
as well as several major cities in the United States such as
to ‘premiumisation’rand which will inevitably be seen as a
New York, Boston, Chicago, Miami, Los Angeles and San
step towards the single distillery world of malt whisky.
Francisco. In each of these places, people gather in rum
There is one other factor that will undoubtedly affect how
societies to share their knowledge and passion for their
the rum category evolves: Cuba. With U.S. President Barack
favourite brands, just as whisky fans do.”
Obama making history by visiting the country and all signs
Certainly the trend towards dark rum seems to have global
pointing to an economic rehabilitation for the rum-loving
appeal. Talk to rum producers and suppliers and they will all
island, it’s a case of ‘when’ Cuba starts trading with
talk about growth in Germany, France, Italy and some parts
America again and not ‘if’. So what will that mean for rum?
of the United States. Some mention Spain and Pernod Ricard,
Benjamin Jones, the United States director for Rhum
which markets Havana Club, points to the ‘premiumisation’
Clement and Rhum J.M., is optimistic. “When Cuban rum
trend in Asian markets. So why has this happened?
enters the US market, I believe it will have a substantial and
Partially the change is the rehabilitation of dark spirits.
positive impact for all premium rum. Initially I think it will
Partly it’s because people are seeking out bigger and bolder
take a little market share away from some brands, most
flavours and, rightly or wrongly, they make a link between
notably Bacardi.”
taste and colour. Partly it’s because people are drinking less but better, and are seeking out premium drinks with a story to tell. Rum has spotted a market in the premium sector. Somewhat ironically, history and heritage are major factors in the dark rum renaissance, as drinkers seek to discover the nuanced differences between rums from Antigua, the Dominican Republic, Cuba or Venezuela. Consumer education has become key. Perhaps belatedly,
History and heritage are major factors in the dark rum renaissance, as drinkers seek to discover the nuanced differences between rums from Antigua, the Dominican Republic, Cuba or Venezuela
the rum companies have taken a leaf out of the whisky textbook and engaged the customer more fully. Hence the number of rum shows. It would seem that the category is still playing catch up though. “I would say it’s happening, and is probably one of the
The competition will be welcomed. There will be a wide open door for other premium craft and heritage Cuban rums to enter the US market. Nick Blackness, marketing director
main reasons for its fast development in recent years,
at Havana Club International, agrees. “Across the board,
although at the moment it can’t really be compared to
consumers are increasingly buying brands that they feel
the level of education of whisky consumers,” says Patrick
an emotional connection with; brands that have a story to
Rabion, export director at Diplomático Rum. “Premium
tell and that do it in a compelling way. With our rich Cuban
dark rum brands have invested a lot of time and resources
heritage, Havana Club has plentiful stories to tell and we
on consumer education and professionals training.”
are looking forward to sharing them with Havana Club fans
It seems that with education and the launch of new
around the world in the months and years to come. If the
products at the top end of the market, the profile of the
trade embargo between Cuba and the USA is lifted, there
dark rum drinker is shifting. Where once it was polarised
would definitely be a strong opportunity for Havana Club in
between cheaper mixing rums favoured by the party crowd,
the USA.” Exciting times for the rum category then.
and those who sipped it over ice at the high end, the category is broadening its appeal in general. So have dark rums got single malt whisky drinkers
“The rum category is currently the most underpremiumised spirit category,” continues Blackness. “The opportunities for premiumisation are clear. Rum has all
in its sights? There are a mixture of views among the
the credentials to step up as the next experience in luxury
producers, but they all accept there is some way to go.
spirits. Ultimately premium rums have authenticity,
But certainly Bacardi thinks there is mileage here. It has
heritage and character.”
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Photography: Le Bristol Paris
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The Art of Balance To what degree should regional wines take centre stage and how does a sommelier strike the right chord between championing the surrounding area whilst delivering on guest expectations? Words: Nina Caplan
A
fine hotel and a fine wine aren’t
struck between the familiarity of fine dining
alike in many ways but they do
and the pleasant shock of this particular
have something in common when
dinner.
it comes to terroir. It is, after all, important to be representative
In wine country, there’s another person who has just as crucial role in striking that balance:
of one’s region. Just as a bottle of Bordeaux
the sommelier. Most fine dining restaurants
should taste recognisably like Bordeaux,
will offer the wines the world considers the
nobody visiting Burgundy is looking for a Las
greatest available – Bordeaux and Burgundy –
Vegas-style masterpiece of gambling kitsch:
and pretty much everyone offers Champagne,
they are hoping for the essence of Burgundy
proof that even in a world where the finest
with luxury fittings. But at the same time,
Cava or Crémant is a better drinking experience
you have to stand out from your immediate
than the worst Champagnes, many people
neighbours, or why stay ‘here’ and drink
don’t consider it a celebration unless the fizz
‘that’? No wonder a great hotel restaurant
comes from that famous patch of northern
is such an asset: it’s a way to celebrate
France.
individuality, revelling in the character of the
In France, this makes the priorities
region. As the diner spears a delicious morsel
straightforward – “The top three regions
composed of locally grown produce, carefully
requested are Bourgogne, Bordeaux as well
coaxed into an unfamiliar yet appealing form
as Champagne,” says Bernard Neveu, Chef
by the talent in the kitchen, he or she knows
Sommelier at 3 Michelin-starred restaurant
exactly why they have chosen to come to this
Epicure in Le Bristol hotel. He adds that,
establishment: that delicate balance has been
“Seeing how we are located in the heart
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of Paris and Le Bristol sells classic French service, I am
Piedmont, there are new wineries and wines every year –
open to recommending wines from any region of France;
a bewildering choice through which the sommelier must
sometimes even other European regions.” And that’s the
guide his guests. “The challenge is to try to know most of
hierarchy: simple. I have had some astonishingly good wine
them so I can always offer something new to the customers,
and food pairings in Epicure but every one I can remember
especially the regular guests.”
has been French. Elsewhere in the world, the sommelier’s job is more
This, more than the geographical selection of wines on their list, was the common refrain among those I spoke to:
complicated. In Spain, do you prioritise Rioja and Priorat?
the customer must be happy, and these sommeliers – a
In Portugal, should the Douro take precedence? And what
varied bunch, with backgrounds ranging from aeronautics
about the New World? On the one hand, sommeliers want
to journalism – believe that showcasing the terroir in which
to demonstrate the greatness of local wines – but a hotel
their establishment is rooted is the best way to ensure this.
is not a boarding school, and if a guest wishes to spend a
Juan Pablo Jiménez Hincapié, head sommelier at Bohemia
week in the Canaries drinking nothing but Bordeaux, then
Suites & Spa in Gran Canaria, points out that Spain is a
perhaps a hotel should make that possible. As for food
country with an immense variety of gastronomic traditions
and wine matching, the sommelier’s great task, a talented
and of vines. “My job is to show visitors our wealth and
somm can do so much more than ally a dish with a wine
help to create a complete gastronomic experience.”
made in the same vicinity. But then again, a cuisine that is
Depending on the customer, he says, sometimes that
celebrating local produce may very well be shown to best
means a Spanish wine, often from one of several small
advantage beside a wine from the same neighbourhood.
wineries he likes to work with. “Sometimes their choice is an international reference and a nice talk about local
Even in countries that have less of a hallowed wine tradition, the sommelier is likely to make a point of ensuring that at the very least, his guests do not leave in ignorance of the local winemakers
production.” Even in countries that have less of a hallowed wine tradition, the sommelier is likely to make a point of ensuring that at the very least, his guests do not leave in ignorance of the local winemakers, even if they choose not to try their wares. At Château Frontenac in Quebec City, sommelier Zsombor Mezey (who is originally from
At Six Senses Douro Valley, a recently opened hotel
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Romania) acknowledges that Bordeaux and Burgundy are
and spa set among Portugal’s most famous vineyards,
the primary vinous destinations – particularly unsurprising
Wine Director Francisca Van Zeller presides over a bold
in a Francophone region with close, if sometimes
experiment: local wines only, although local is loosely
problematic, ties to France – but says that the US, Italy
defined (and Champagne is the exception). “We are located
and yes, Canada figure high on guests’ wishlists too. In
in the oldest demarcated wine region in the world. Port
contrast to Europe, this is where the New World wines
has been produced here for centuries and before that the
come into their own. “They are in very high demand,
Romans were already producing wine in these parts,” says
especially the small, unique, and exclusive wines,” he says,
Van Zeller. “Since the 1990s, DOC Douro has been producing
adding that the food and wine match of which he is most
fabulous reds and whites that have gained the wine world’s
proud in his career so far, was a Mollydooker Verdelho
approbation.” So it seems a shame not to show that off.
from McLaren Vale in South Australia accompanying
Six Senses’ wine list is structured as a journey along the
grilled vegetable salad with fresh tomato and mozzarella.
river Douro, including Ribera del Duero in Spain, “because
Is there a particular affinity between the produce of those
this area shares with us the location on the river Douro.”
countries that took European traditions and planted them
The region’s 100-plus indigenous grape varieties and
across the oceans, and the wines that are also European
terroirs are showcased on a 700-strong wine list on which
transplants? Or maybe it’s just that Americans, Canadians
Champagne is the only departure from the Douro theme.
and Australians are more inclined to try something that
Other places are less categorical while still making a
is, like them, an offshoot from the Old World. Hard to say,
point of their pride in the home region. “I really like it
and in any case, impossible to generalise. Each great hotel,
when diners drink local wines because our country is full
like the great wines they serve, is unique. And arguably
of small artisan-family owned wineries,” says Marco
each guest is too, even if many of their requirements
Reitano, sommelier at Rome’s only 3-Michelin-starred
overlap. Combining all those different personalities into an
restaurant, La Pergola atop Hotel Cavalieri. “Italy has over
appetising blend is no easy feat. “In this job psychology,
200,000 wine producers and hundreds of indigenous grape
people skills, likeability, seriousness are all needed,” says
varieties.” And of course, while there are perennial greats,
Hincapié. But it is the ultimate achievement of a talented
particularly from the most famous regions of Tuscany and
somm to do just that.
Photography: Hotel Cavalieri Rome, Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts
Punch on the Road at Candelaria, Paris
DRINKS
Punch on the Road On a tour of the world’s best bars, London Edition’s Punch Room is taking to the road in 2016. From Singapore to Miami, from popups to takeovers, the bar will be showcasing its distinctive approach in global style. Lance Perkins, director of bars at London Edition, explains.
What was the rationale behind taking Punch
emerging or untapped markets. Paris has a
back now, like milk washing, fat washing and
Room on the road?
burgeoning bar scene, and Miami is becoming
some fairly new like clarification, foams &
We love what we do here at Punch Room, but
a cocktail capital. With Singapore, next year
barrel ageing.
we want to take it to a wider audience and
everyone will be talking about it, so we want to
have fun with it. Taking the bar on the road,
be part of that.
we’re able to meet a load of new people and
The Milk Punch is arguably the Punch Room’s signature cocktail, in which ways
learn from what they’re doing. We have a great
Which brands have you got on board for your
does it represent the ethos of the bar and how
network of bars in London and our cocktail
road trip?
will this be showcased on tour?
scene is globally renowned, but it’s great to
Well we’re partnering with brands that
It’s definitely our signature punch and
explore and show the rest of the world what
we’ve worked with before and have existing
although it does represent us, it’s also a great
we’re known for.
relationships with. Punch on The Road is our
representation of the punch category. It’s a
tour, but we rely on collaborations to make it
recipe from 1750 so very classic but at the same
What is it about the Punch Room specifically
work. The brands that we have either used or
time very modern. That’s exactly the ethos
that you hope to showcase?
are signed up to be involved in 2016 are Pernod
of Punch Room - apply modern ingredients
The skills of the bartenders, the quality of
Ricard with Plymouth, Olmeca Altos, Martell,
to a very classic concept. It will be the main
drinks and our jovial side. Most hotel bars are
Havana Club and Absolut Elyx; Bacardi with
drink of the tour and we will adapt the recipe
super formal with regimented service, but we
Banks Rum; and Brown Forman with Woodford
everywhere we go. For example in Paris we did
like to challenge the status quo and bend the
Reserve.
it with all French spirits: cognac, Calvados,
rules. Having fun is the most important part
Lillet Blanc and absinthe. Yes, absinthe! Our
of running a bar, both for the team and the
How will the locations impact on the menus
guests.
created and how are the region-specific
punchbowls will also be travelling with us.
cocktails devised?
[Punch Room’s punch bowls are a signature
The plan includes a myriad of destinations:
We completely recognise that whilst we want
of the bar. Sourced from a dealer in London’s
NYC, New Orleans, Chicago and Berlin, to
to showcase our brand, we also want to reflect
Hackney, they are all antique.]
name a few. How did you decide on the
our surroundings and tailor our offering
locations and how do the bars and events
depending on where we are. For Paris, Davide
Finally, who from the team gets the lucky
you’re partnering with represent the best the
Segat [London Edition bar manager] used a lot
task of travelling the world?
world has to offer?
of French products to ‘French up the menu’, so
It will change, but Davide will be a constant.
We’re very lucky in that we’re able to choose
to speak, and for Miami the Clearer Colada was
He opened Punch Room and so is well versed
who we work with. When we decided on Paris
an obvious choice. We want to show that we’ve
in all our practices. No one is better suited to
for stop one, Candelaria was an obvious choice
put thought into it, rather than just rolling
represent us than him.
because it’s one of our favourite bars in the
something out.
world. We will always partner with people we like, admire, and can have fun with. In
What kind of processes are you using in
To keep up to date with Punch on the Road and the
choosing cities, we’ve pinpointed places that
terms of mixology?
international schedule, visit them on Facebook at:
have a lot going on at the moment – existing,
We use quite old techniques that are coming
www.facebook.com/PunchRoomLDN
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Diageo World Class: Tanqueray No. TEN
DRINKS
Diageo’s One and Only Words: Harry McKinley
B
lending fine drinking with destination resorts, Diageo
legs down. At the One & Only Ocean Club on Paradise Island
Reserve World Class have partnered with One & Only
in the Bahamas, UK bartender Ali Reynolds – of London’s
for Destinations Distilled. Across 2016 the project
Hawksmoor – channelled the flavours of the region with a
sees six of the world’s best bartenders travelling
mango, lime, coconut, sugar and Ron Zacapa rum creation,
to six One & Only resorts, on a mission to create bespoke
finished with a blue macaw feather. “I was fascinated by
cocktails that will interpret and capture the essence of each
the 12th Century Cloisters which were shipped over brick
destination though the art of mixology. “This partnership
by brick from France to the resort in the 1960s. As such,
with One & Only will bring to life experiences that will be
through the language of mixology, the cocktail speaks
authentic, sophisticated and entertaining using the finest
to both old world romance and new world exuberance,”
Diageo Reserve spirit brands,” says Matteo Fantacchiotti,
says Reynolds. “I like to avoid fuss. A good backstory and
Global Reserve Commercial Vice President.
something to get the guests interested is my focus.”
“It is my view that cocktail making is about putting
Descending on One & Only Palmilla in los Cabos Mexico,
your inspiration on the bar. It is about the journey that
Japan’s Michito Kaneko – founder and sole bartender of
you go through as a creator, and part of that journey is
The Lamp Bar – drew inspiration from the landscapes and
about taking your guest along with you,” says Israel’s Ariel
scents of the region in a subtle cocktail including Don Julio
Leizgold, founder of several award winning cocktail bars in
1942 tequila paired with the tart freshness of local lime
his home city of Tel Aviv and one of the bartenders taking
juice, homemade vanilla soda and a dash of rich mineral salt
part. Listed in 2011 among the world’s 50 most influential
water. Giving up his job as a construction worker to pursue
people in hospitality, Leizgold will be heading to Emirates
a career in mixology, Kaneko’s understated approach has
One & Only Wolgan Valley, Australia, where he will seek
seen him garner significant acclaim. “I think it is a Japanese
to gain inspiration from his surroundings. “I call my style
speciality of mixology, to make delicate but well-balanced
‘storytelling through cocktails’. Everyone loves stories,
cocktails,” he explains. Precise and exacting he likes to
which are the essence of hospitality,” he says. “Taking
demonstrate, “accurate and stable bartending techniques.”
your guest on a ride of inspiration, giving them a glimpse
Still to come, Vítězslav Cirok of the Czech Republic will be
of how you create, deconstruct flavours, give birth to new
travelling to Capetown South Africa where he hopes to be
presentations using new and old stories - that is how I view
inspired by the, “rich culture, native people, local cuisine
my creations.”
and African roots” in his work. Jack Sotti from Australia
Already underway, Destinations Distilled’s journey is two
may not even need his passport as he flies to the country’s
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DRINKS
Japan’s Michito Kaneko
Hayman Island. “I can’t get past the azure blue of the Great
while Kaneko invariably reaches for the Don Julio and
Barrier Reef and the fresh maritime scent in the morning
Johnnie Walker Gold Label Reserve.
on the beach. I think I’ll start there,” he tells us when we
Their approaches and tastes may vary, but one thing
ask about how he expects to be stirred by his surroundings.
each bartender agrees on is that appreciation for mixology
Finally, Greece’s Emmanouil Lykiardopoulos will bring a
is growing and projects such as Destinations Distilled are
close to the project, heading to Reethi Rah in the Maldives.
helping to shine a light on the creativity and complexity of
“I like using new and unexpected materials to create
their work. “Day by day, the art of mixology is becoming
meaningful cocktails with character that are able to awaken
more and more interesting,” says Lykiardopoulos. “Cocktail
all senses,” he says.
competitions like World Class can only help but put this
Naturally working with Diageo Reserve gives the
on a pedestal for the world to see,” agrees Reynolds. For
bartenders unlimited access to an array of premium spirits,
Leizgold, it’s about developing a respect for the form. “Mr
but they each have their own favourites according to style
Erik Lorincz [head bartender at the American Bar at the
and taste. “I love gin and gin loves me back. Tanqueray
Savoy, London] once told me that he thinks cocktail making
no. Ten is without a doubt my favourite spirit for mixing
is exactly like cooking, only instead of using fire, we use ice.
cocktails,” says Leizgold. “It’s diverse and fun. Like me
I cannot agree more and, ultimately, the modern guest has
really.” Lykiardopoulos seconds his choice. For Cirok
become a true connoisseur of all things pleasurable.”
it’s not about what’s in a name, “I would say that I am
“Craft cocktail culture is changing the way we experience
closest to Ciroc Vodka, but if we dismiss my surname I
fine drinking, positioning bartenders as true craftsmen
have to say that I very much enjoy premium whisky from
and women who are celebrated for their work,” says
the classic range of malts - namely Talisker. I appreciate
Diageo’s Fantacchiotti.
its roughness, rich taste, individuality, spiciness and its
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elegance. A few key words identifying my personality.”
www.diageo.com
Reynolds is particularly fond of Johnnie Walker Blue Label,
www.oneandonlyresorts.com
DRINKS
Tributo
Havana Club An ode to ultra-premium Cuban run, Havana Club have unveiled a new series of bold limited editions. With only 2,500 bottles of each available, a new limited edition will be unveiled annually at the Cuban Habanos Festival – where cigar aficionados assemble to indulge in the local wares. A collection crafted for collectors and connoisseurs, the packaging is designed to maximise shelf appeal and cut through the noise of a premium back-bar. Created by Nude Brand Creation it’s inspired by the variety of Cuban architectural styles and features a healthy dose of blue, the national colour. The 2016 release is led by a base of rums aged in 80year old casks. Bright and clear in colour, a balanced but
heady aroma hits the nose, with dried fruits and raisins highlighted with subtle oak notes. The taste is full bodied and lingers. “Creating the Havana Club Tributo Collection is a fascinating process, as each release will provide a new and unique taste experience, achieved through experimentation with rum bases from our reserves,” says Asbel Morales, Maestro Ronero for Havana Club. As a seal of quality, Morales’ signature and the number of each bottle is displayed on the label. The collection will be available in 10 global markets, including China, Mexico, the UK and Cuba. www.havana-club.com
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DRINKS
Forest Gin British boutique gin brand Forest Gin has unveiled its new bottle design, a collaboration with Stoke-on-Trent potter Wade Ceramics. “We have always been very proud of the original bottle, but the chance to change to Staffordshire Porcelain was just too good to miss,” says Karl Bond, co-founder of the family-run business and staunch believer in choosing local. “Everyone at Wade has been so helpful with the process, and to see the finished product is amazing. We truly believe that this is the world’s most beautiful Gin bottle.” Much of the manufacturing process is completed by hand, down to the application of the Suzy Taylor-designed papercut weasel that adorns the exterior, and each bottle features a hand-written batch number. Launched in 2015, Forest Gin is made in tiny batches of around 80 bottles and has been awarded medals in the ultra-premium category of the Global Gin Masters as well as two separate double-gold medals at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition. With increasing international acclaim comes greater interest from the on-trade market, with Forest Gin now stocked in the UK at Selfridges’ Forest on the Roof in London and Manchester’s Renaissance Hotel. www.forestgin.com
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SIDES
“What is happening off the plate can be as important as what is happening on the plate.� Michael Ellis, International Director of Michelin Guides, speaking at GRIF 16.
Puccini Group founder Bob Puccini onstage with Supper Editor Harry McKinley
The Global Restaurant Awards at Burj Al Arab
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SIDES
Global Restaurant Investment Forum 14th – 16th March, Dubai
S
howcasing the hottest restaurant concepts from around the globe
Supper editor Harry McKinley was joined on stage by Bob Puccini, founder
and giving attendees a place of focus to connect with investors,
of the Puccini Group where they discussed homegrown F&B concepts, pop-
owners, franchisors and senior hospitality professionals, GRIF 2016
ups and the crucial role design plays in creating successful eating and
- organised by Bench Events - was held at The Address Dubai Mall
drinking concepts. “Restaurants are as much about heart as the stomach,”
in the city’s vibrant Downtown neighbourhood.
Puccini told the audience.
For 2016 GRIF partnered with Michelin, with Michael Ellis, International
Inspired and informed, delegates decamped to an exclusive event at
Director for Michelin Guides, delivering several keynote presentations over
OKKU at the H Hotel to discuss the day’s talking points over cocktails
the course of the three-day event. Delivering insight into the selection
and nibbles. Afterwards the more hardy headed up to the 40th floor to
process as well as trends in the F&B sector, Ellis spoke on the importance
continue conversation at the hotel’s rooftop bar 40 Kong, taking in the
of relaying a ‘food story’ but keeping it succinct. “Guests want to get a
impressive views before the unseasonal rain brought a dramatic end to
sense of provenance but some restaurants have taken that notion a little
the evening’s festivities.
too far,” he explained. “Ultimately diners aren’t interested in the name
The closing day saw the presentations continue apace, with panel
of the farmer.” Other movements noted in the sector included the divide
discussions on the art of franchise negotiation, the changing business
between formal fine dining and more casual models. As Ellis explained,
models of hotel F&B and investor opportunities.
“guests still want to dress up for dinner, just not that often.” Speaking on
A dynamic finale, Into the GRIF Den saw three food concept founders
the importance of experience Ellis noted that, “what is happening off the
pitch their ideas to a panel of judges, including Sami Daud, founder and
plate can be as important as what is happening on the plate.”
chairman of Gourmet Gulf Co.; Eric Bellquist, partner at Hutton Collins
For attendees the event began with a culinary tour hosted by Emaar
Partners; Ron Pearson, partner at Bowmark Capital; and Noma’s Marc
Hospitality Group. An early start at French bistro and boulangerie La Serre,
Blazer. As well as gaining advice on their businesses, it was an opportunity
at hotel Vida Downtown, set the tone for a day of hotel restaurant discovery
for the business founders to seek investment from an audience of influential
and canapés, with the likes of Armani Hotel and The Palace showcasing
industry insiders.
their F&B venues along with appetising samples of their offer.
The closing evening saw the launch of the Global Restaurant Awards
An opening networking reception at Intersect by Lexus in the DIFC
at the iconic Burj Al Arab. Held in the Al Falak Ballroom, an opulently
(Dubai International Financial District) offered delegates an opportunity
decorated space styled after an 18th century Viennese opera House,
to meet and network in a recently opened space, with the city’s Art Nights
guests dined on foie gras and caviar while the winners were announced.
event bustling in the surrounding galleries.
Among them, Berner’s Tavern at the London Edition picked up the gong
Day two saw the speakers take to the stage and included presentations
for Design, with the judges describing it as, ‘outrageously brilliant in its
from Marc Blazer, chairman of the board for Noma; Rohit Sachdev,
design, appearance and character’. GM Pierre Noublanche was there to
managing director of Soho Hospitality; and Simon Taylor, head of business
accept the award, dedicating it to his team.
development restaurants for Condé Nast International Restaurants.
Bow ties loosened and shirts untucked, guests filtered to celebrate the
Charles Banks, co-founder of thefoodpeople, discussed the
close of a successful event while winners faced the happy problem of how
movements driving global F&B, from the popularity of street food to
to squeeze a commanding slab of glass into the next day’s hand luggage.
the importance of open kitchens. “Getting up and close and personal with the chefs cooking your food allows for trust, transparency and a story to unfold around the dining experience,” he said.
www.restaurant-invest.com
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SIDES
Hotelympia 2016 29th February – 3rd March, London
Oliver Heath onstage at Hotelympia 2016
T
he UK’s largest foodservice and hospitality event, Hotelympia 2016
environments.’ Afroditi Krassa presented her perspectives on design and
welcomed 26,000 attendees over four days, a 15% surge in visitor
offered insight into her collaborations with the likes of Hilton and Emaar.
numbers.
“I’m only interested in working with clients who want to do something
With almost 1,000 innovative food and drink, technology, catering
new,” she said. “The market is saturated and if there isn’t the desire to
equipment, interiors and waste management companies set across the
deliver an idea in a way that hasn’t been seen before then it won’t succeed.”
show’s 300,000 ft2, it continued to provide a platform to showcase the
latest innovations and products for the hotel F&B industry.
Over the course of the event The Staff Canteen Live – Skillery, delivered demos from some of the industry’s top names, including Tom Kerridge,
World renowned chef and restaurateur Jason Atherton headlined the
Clare Smyth, Simon Rogan, Graham Garrett, Claude Bosi, Nathan Outlaw
Hotelympia Food Service 2020 Conference discussing his growing number
and Angela Hartnett. Elsewhere Anton Mosimann OBE, was inaugurated
of sites in a talk entitled ‘re-imagining global for local’. In it he addressed
into the Hotelympia Hall of Fame in front of an approving audience.
the inspiring nature of translating ideas for an international audience and
Bombay Brasserie took Hotelympia’s Best Restaurant Design Award,
discussed his signature venues, including hotel restaurants in Sydney,
leaving Fera at Claridge’s and German Gymnasium as close runners up.
Dubai and Shanghai.
Founded in 1982 and part of Taj 51 Buckingham Gate Hotel, it remains one
On the main stage industry experts addressed a variety of topical issues,
of London’s most enduring Indian restaurants.
from crowdfunding to Biophilic design, with interior designer Oliver Heath discussing his passion for creating ‘healthier and happier built
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www.hotelympia.com
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PETITS FOURS
Olea Kempinski Mall of the Emirates, Dubai Tricon Foodservice Consultants
Opened in November 2015, Olea at Kempinski Mall of the Emirates, Dubai specialises in authentic Levantine cuisine and traditional cooking methods. It is one of five F&B venues at the hotel and mixes classic Arabian style with a contemporary sensibility. Most signature to Olea’s design and operations is the bold central show kitchen developed by Tricon Foodservice Consultants. Tasked with approaching concepts from a practical and comprehensive point of view, Tricon specialises in F&B design that optimises revenue generating potential – be it through space planning of functional areas or ensuring operations that are seamless and considered. The company has applied these services to numerous hotel F&B projects, working with the likes of Mondrian at Sea Containers London, W Doha and the Hyatt Capital Gate Tower in Abu Dhabi. With Olea, the brief was deceptively simple: create and achieve a showpiece display kitchen as a focal point within the new restaurant concept. Tricon was engaged by the hotel’s architect Aukett Swanke and owners and developers Majid Al Futtaim, one of the region’s foremost holding companies. The Tricon team, headed up by Robert Plumb,
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design director, carried out extensive research into Levantine cuisine and cooking methods, known in Arabic as the Bilad al-Sham or Land of the North, which is the ‘true’ traditional cuisine found in the Levant region. In doing so they gleaned a distinct insight into the working spaces that would be required. Ultimately one of the key challenges was to create a bespoke dining experience within the restaurant, yet be aware that up to 300 hotel guests would require breakfast service in the same environment. A serving counter that stretches the length of the kitchen was developed as one solution – providing space for mass catering but also creating a barrier between the dining area and the kitchen, whilst leaving it visually unobstructed. In creating a standalone dining destination, in a space previously reserved for all day dining, Tricon also developed a bar and beverage serving area that functions as a self-service space during breakfast and a waiter station during lunch and dinner. ww.tricon.co.uk
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PETITS FOURS
Breakfast at Thon Craster
With hotels across Norway, Belgium and the Netherlands, the Osloheadquartered Thon Hotels identified a need to improve, refresh and elevate their breakfast concept – seeking to add new ideas to a hotel staple. They called upon fellow Norwegians 2080.no - a unique supplier of kitchen and serving equipment – who in turn enlisted two key industry influencers; esteemed Norwegian Chef Odd Ivar Solvold and Craster, a London based provider of luxury products for hotels and restaurants globally. Chef Solvold, a restaurateur and author of several cookbooks, was the recipient of the Bocuse d’Or bronze medal in 1997 and has since gone on to mentor many of the subsequent winners. 2080.no, Chef Solvold and Craster came together to brainstorm designs for an innovative selection of new display concepts that could be rolled out across the Thon brand. The solution was the dynamic FLOW range which, based on a completely modular system, enables chefs to create a unique layout at different times throughout the day – providing complete flexibility in any all day dining concept. The collection afforded Thon the ability to serve delicious breakfasts, beautifully presented, expertly served and stored in the back of house seamlessly. www.2080.no www.craster.com
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PETITS FOURS
Red or White Nude
Grain
Bonna Turkish label Bonna continues its mission to provide ‘warmth and elegance’ to the HORECA industry with a contemporary range of hand-painted tableware. With translucent bodies and brilliant glazes, pieces from the Grain collection embody a rustic, artisanal feel and combine the traditions of porcelain with practicality and durability. From serving bowls to a diverse tea service, the collection features the same edge-chip warranty and strength as the ivory white series.
Created by renowned industrial designer Ron Arad, Nude’s Red or White collection reflects the brand’s ethos that ‘simple is beautiful’. Believing that design is not about embellishment or style but about purity of idea and shape, Red or White features understated forms. It is the culmination of three years of development and features a handmade crystal decanter, carafes and glasses for red, white or sparkling varieties. In the UK and Ireland the collection is available exclusively via Utopia Tableware. www.nudeglass.com
www.hotel.bonna.com.tr
Sourdough Crispbread
Dune
A Swedish staple, crispbread, or ‘knäckebröd’, has been baked since 500AD and is now a favourite throughout the Nordic countries. Peter’s Yard provide a selection of traditional varieties, from sourdough – made with milk, spelt and rye flours, sourdough, honey and linseed – to options featuring fig, whole spices and healthy seeds. A limited edition serving stand is available, featuring an oak board, stainless steel handle and treated with food oil.
Made with ultra-light aluminium, the Dune collection is designed by Hong Kong-based Italian designer Andrea Ponti. With a durable anodised finish, it draws its name from the sweeping silhouette of the cutlery, the transition from straight to curve reflecting undulating sands. A ‘personal flatware set’, it features freestanding packaging that serves either as a storage device or for display, drawing the connection between food and design.
www.petersyard.com
www.andreaponti.com
Peter’s Yard
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Ponti
PETITS FOURS
Professional Glassware Selection Villeroy & Boch
In the fast-paced hotel and gastronomy industries, where efficiency matters most, complex assortments and difficult to comprehend concepts have no place. That’s why Villeroy & Boch have launched an easy to understand drinking glass concept that consists of four collections designed to encompass a variety of requirements and uses. With the intention of making Villeroy & Boch’s glassware offer simple to understand for the on-trade market, the Professional Glassware Selection is broken down into clear price categories and market segments, from premium to simple pieces for high-volume use. La Divina is described as the ‘character glass’, ideal for wines and sparkling varieties, whilst Maxima features generous goblets in a classic design. Purismo consists of glasses in four modules for the most frequent drinks – from water to beer – and Entrée features accentuated but unfussy glasses ideal for banqueting. www.villeroy-boch.com/hotel
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PETITS FOURS
Studio Prints
Partum
Inspired by Churchill’s archive Homespun collection, Studio Prints features an underglaze printed design with a hand-applied edge band. The series is available in two colourways, charcoal black and stone grey, and features a motif reminiscent of home-crafted pottery. Despite its traditional origins, Studio Prints is intended to reflect the latest food trends and provide a canvas to showcase ingredients – the circular patterning drawing the eye to the plates’ contents.
Featuring long, thin stems, Partum from Hepp is designed to provide a striking counterpoint to larger porcelain tableware. With gently curving handles and distinctive proportions, the collection ‘charms the hand’ and is fashioned with comfort and ease-of-use in mind. Subtle faceting along the centreline combines with a polished finish to reflect light and add drama to a professional tabletop. The collection is available in easy to care for 18/10 stainless steel or with a silver-plated finish.
Churchill
Hepp
www.churchillchina.com www.hepp.de
Table Mat Circle
TAC Palazzo
Founded by sisters Mie and Bine Lind, Danish brand LIND DNA is local in craftsmanship and materials but international in appeal. Showcasing modern Scandinavian design, LIND DNA’s table mats are made from durable and water-repellent recycled leather and feature an understated aesthetic. Available in an assortment of sizes, shapes and colours, the unobtrusive design of the mats is envisioned as a canvas for more expressive tableware, affording versatility in an evolving restaurant environment.
With a vivid, geometric cut, the linear drinking glass series TAC 2016 nods to the traditions of cut crystal but reimagines the technique in contemporary pieces. The clear glass is embellished with a precise wedge cut and reflects the structure of the new TAC design Palazzo RORO with its tapered, crisscrossing lines. The collection includes white and red wine glasses as well as champagne, water and whisky glasses.
LIND DNA
www.linddna.com
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Rosenthal
www.rosenthal.de
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Urban Collection
Chef Works
Inspired by the dynamism and energy of the street food scene, Chef Works’ Urban Collection provides an opportunity for hotel staff to look current whilst working comfortably throughout the kitchen, bar, dining room and beyond. From street-inspired stripes to new twists on denim, the collection’s design is based on robust textures, fabrics and colours that are modern yet subtle enough to complement a variety of professional F&B environments. “The design of a restaurant interior, the flatware and the uniforms are almost as important as the food served,” says Chef Works’, Emma Cohen. www.chefworks.co.uk
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At Ian Macleod Distillers, we take pride in what we do. To us, that’s just part and parcel of being an independent family-owned business, committed to excellence for over 80 years. The result? An award-winning range of premium spirits, produced here in Scotland and enjoyed by drinkers across the UK and beyond. Be part of that global success story today.
For more information on purchasing or stocking brands from our range: Call +44 1506 852205
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5 Decades, 5 Materials LSA
Celebrating five decades of creativity and craftsmanship, LSA pays homage to the five key materials that have informed the brand’s aesthetic. Utilising glass, porcelain, wood, leather and enamelled steel, the collection draws from the archives while introducing new innovations. Simple, utilitarian forms in mixed materials offer a variety of purpose, from food containers that also function as decorative flower holders, to vases designed to be stacked in a combination of ways. Typical of LSA, bold colour is combined with white and neutrals. Orange, navy and deep green provide distinctive tabletop accents, while the Celebrate & Host series features uplifting elements of gold and silver on champagne glasses and serving bowls featuring the LSA anniversary logo. www.lsa-international.com
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PETITS FOURS
Sensory Textured Spoons
Buffet Dispensers
Believing that shape and texture can affect the way in which diner’s enjoy food, Studio William has devised a series of spoons to stimulate the palate. Featuring a selection of inbuilt textures, the spoons are best showcased with fine dining and tasting menus, providing another dimension to an elevated food experience. Since launch, the range has been the recipient of several international awards including a German Design Award.
Made with 18/10 stainless steel, Tiger Hotel’s dispensers are a refined addition to buffet arrangements. Providing adaptable, multipurpose solutions to both large and small scale catering, the low-key design combines easily with existing setups or with further pieces from Tiger Hotel’s collection. With a focus on visual appeal as well practicality, versatility and durability, Tiger Hotel has been exporting internationally since 1996 and collaborates with Italian designers to create its pieces.
www.studiowilliam.com
www.tigerhotel.kr
Triomphe
Reef
A 20-piece collection, Triomphe infuses modern spirit into WMF’s traditional Augsburger Faden pattern. The reinterpreted design keeps the forms of the classical period, but dispenses with the older, more superfluous elements. The collection is available in a classic hollow-shank version, with specialists from hotel and catering also able to opt for a monobloc alternative. All pieces are offered in either high-gloss polished 18/10 stainless steel or with a silver-plate finish.
Reef from Zieher features a distinctive underwater inspiration with twisting metal strands evocatively bending to form serving baskets and decorative arrangements. Many individual parts are assembled by hand, with external textures varying across the series, some smoothly rounded while others are roughly structured with dark, patinated hollows. Despite the eye-catching design, the collection is designed to work across multiple hotel spaces, from carrying fruit in a guestroom to bread at a breakfast buffet.
Studio William
WMF
www.wmf.com
Tiger Hotel
Zieher
www.zieher.com
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W E M Y S S PR E SE N T I NG A N AWA R D -W I N N I NG R A NGE OF SCOTCH W H ISK Y A N D GI N FROM T H E W E M YS S FA M I LY, R E NOW N E D V I N T N E R S A N D SPI R I T S M E RCH A N TS
FOR MOR E I N FOR M AT ION ON W E M YS S M A LT S A N D DA R N L EY ’ S V I EW GI N PL E A SE V ISI T OU R W E B SI T E S W W W.W E M YS SM A LT S .COM / W W W.DA R N L EYSV I EWGI N.COM
HOTEL & RESTAURANT BUSINESS PLACE 06-10 November 2016 / Paris / France
1,600 exhibitors (37 countries) / 30 activity sectors / 111,000 profesionals (133 countries)
Get your free access badge on www.equiphotel.com CODE IUK01 From July 2016 In partnership with Organised by
pub_EH16_236x275_badge_gb.indd 1
EquipHotel Office / Promosalons UK elise@promosalons.co.uk / Tel. (020) 8216 3104
07/04/2016 11:23
PETITS FOURS
Wild Strawberry Afternoon Tea
Wedgwood and Heritage Collection Wedgwood have teamed up with Heritage to produce an afternoon tea collection, using the classic Wild Strawberry design in conjunction with Helix silverware from Heritage. One of Wedgwood’s most popular designs, Wild Strawberry conveys a whimsical aesthetic, drawing inspiration from English country gardens and the quaint rolling countryside. Continuing a longstanding relationship, Heritage lends its skill with silverware to the afternoon tea collection. The silver-plated Helix pieces – including the tea stand and teapot – are polished to a mirror finish. Both Wedgwood and Heritage work extensively with the premium hotel market, providing tea services to the likes of The Ritz London and The Dorchester. www.wedgwood.co.uk www.heritagesilverware.com
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Dinner Plate
mud australia Handmade in the company’s Sydney factory, each mud australia piece is fashioned from porcelain sourced in Limoges, combining craftsmanship with functionality and an artisan finish. Designed by Australian ceramicist Shelley Simpson, the brand’s minimalist aesthetic and contemporary attitude have seen it garner international popularity, present at Hotel Hotel in Canberra and Crosby Street Hotel in New York. Evolving seasonally with the addition of new shapes and colours, the range now includes a tea service and ovenproof, dishwasher safe cookware. www.mudaustralia.com
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Perfectly Shaken and Served Sparkling since 1936, Orangina is a delicious blend of citrus juices and orange zest, with real orange juice. Now available with
Produced under the authority of Schweppes Intl. Ltd. Orangina and the Orangina logo are registered trademarks of Schweppes International Ltd.
incredible drink recipes developed by the besT mixologists in THE UK.
Get in touch to join the club of Orangina Stockists: 08702 408601
PETITS FOURS
Arita X Nobu Arita Plus
Marking the 400th anniversary of Japanese Arita porcelain, Arita Plus – a group of craftsmen from the region - have collaborated with celebrated chef Nobu Matsuhisa on a collection of nine distinctive pieces. Drawing inspiration from the Japanese flag, the collection features signature red circles, evoking the rising sun for which the nation is nicknamed. Including plates, sushi roll holder, sake set and a matcha bowl, the collection is designed to demonstrate the versatility of Arita and the capabilities of Arita Plus to work on bespoke lines with F&B professionals, such as Matsuhisa, co-owner of the Nobu international chain of restaurants, a mainstay of hotel F&B from Four Seasons Doha to InterContinental Hong Kong. www.arita-plus.com
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N O V E LT I E S
2 0 1 6 GERMANY
W W W. Z I E H E R . C O M “Capiz“
“Fakir“
VISION
ZIEHER NEWS 09/2015
“Reef“
”You have never seen wine like this!“
Silvio Nitzsche WEIN | KULTUR | BAR, Dresden
The VISION: No distinction is made between red wine or white wine glasses in the VISION collection by Zieher: the glasses are simply theme-based or characterbased.
GOLD
in the category Design!
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The names of the glasses clearly explain what they are used for: You intuitively reach for the glass which presents the flavours of the wine that you particularly wish to emphasise in the best way.
Unbenannt-2 1
INTENSE
BALANCED
STRAIGHT RICH
FRESH
nd ha ly ul ilf
NOSTALGIC
THE VIDEO
www.zieher.com/en/products/vision.html
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WWW.ZIEHER.COM
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VISION
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Why Choose Avenista? Avenista is the must-have tool for Busy Restaurants still struggling with pen and paper. It is also the solution most favoured by restaurants needing an alternative when existing providers prove slow, expensive or ineffective.
You built a great restaurant by insisting on quality, attention to detail and customer service. Now choose Avenista to ensure you get the same from your Reservations Partner.
+44 1925 750 100 avenista.com sales@avenista.com
PETITS FOURS
Cobra
Sublime
Designed by famed German designer Constantin Wortmann, Cobra features organic shapes and a refined sculptural elegance. The folds and waves of the plates create movement on the table and now, with the addition of multifunctional bowls and dishes, a full look can be created with these complementary forms. The bowls and plates can be used for multiple purposes as the two designs fit seamlessly together, the serving dish functioning as a lid for the small bowl.
Made with Luigi Bormioli’s SON.hyx formula, the Sublime collection features a break-resistant, ultra-clear glass that will remain perfectly transparent even after 4,000 dishwashing cycles. With a subtle design mixing angular straight lines with understated curves, the collection is made in Italy and intended to be casual enough for everyday use but bold enough for more daring table arrangements. Luigi Bormioli rivals fine crystal in appearance and elegance but is lead free.
www.georgjensen.com
www.luigibormioli.com
Serving Set
Ayam
The Good Design-awarded Magisso serving set consists of three fluid tableware pieces: a pie server, cheese knife and cheese slicer. From young Finnish designer Maria Kivijärvi, the series is made from stainless steel and designed to stand sideways, thus avoiding tarnished tablecloths and serving boards. Magisso specialises in providing simple, creative solutions to common tableware issues and is available in the UK through Continental Chef Supplies.
A signature piece for the company’s 260th year, the Ayam decanter is named after - and gains it’s distinctive silhouette from - the world’s most exclusive breed of hen. With the ability to ‘double decante’, the Ayam can aerate wine twice as quickly as a traditional decanter and is designed with the potential to hang from the table as a practical space saving option, and also as a bold flourish to table dressing.
Georg Jensen
Magisso
Luigi Bormioli
Riedel
www.riedel.com www.magisso.com
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Silestone Authentic Life 速
KITCHEN & BATHROOM WORKTOPS
Day-to-day life shapes our emotions Only you have the key to decide how to live your own authentic life and to be passionate about everything you do. Silestone lets you confi gure your daily spaces in the way that you want thanks to its wide variety of colours and textures. Its the original quartz with a 25 year warranty. SILESTONE AUTHENTIC LIFE
!"#$%"&'!"#$%&!"#$%&'!()*#!+#,-#+ ()*$''()*+&'),-."* 25 Year Warranty - Bacteriostatic Protection Available in some colours High resistance to Scratches - High resistance to Stains
COSENTINO UK- CENTRAL OFFICES AND LONDON CENTRE Unit 10 Bartley Point/ Osborn Way/ Hook/ Hampshire RG27 9GX/ HQ: info.uk@cosentino.com F cosentinouk.ie T CosentinoUK
PETITS FOURS
Radford Cutlery Robert Welch With a modern, classic aesthetic designed to complement a range of table settings, Radford (satin or bright) features an extensive array of specialist pieces including sauce spoons, fruit knives, oyster forks, pastry forks and lobster picks. Made from high quality 18/10 stainless steel, the series features specially hardened stainless steel knives for maintaining an excellent cutting edge and for assured resilience over repeated use. Fully dishwasher safe and durable in the hospitality environment, Radford exemplifies Robert Welch’s ethos of producing design-led, timeless collections that combine function with form. www.robertwelch.com
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TAKING THE GUESSWORK OUT OF MAKING GREAT ESPRESSO! PREMIUM QUALITY COFFEE - BIODEGRADABLE PODS - FULLY RECYCLABLE PACKAGING. Rombouts espresso pods are vacuum packed for freshness, the correct weight, grind size and perfectly tamped for a great espresso each and every time. We offer a full range of coffee equipment to support your business; from high-volume traditional style espresso machines to push button ‘Pod-to-Cup’ systems and compact meeting room & bedroom machines, ensuring consistency throughout your establishment.
WWW.ROMBOUTS.CO.UK/PROFESSIONAL
Rombouts Coffee GB Ltd. Manhattan House, 140 High Street, Crowthorne, RG45 7AY - T: 0845 604 0188 - E: info.uk@rombouts.com
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PETITS FOURS
Celebrate LSA
Part of LSA’s 50th anniversary celebrations, the aptly titled Celebrate collection embodies the party spirit with champagne glasses, cocktail glasses and champagne buckets. Each piece is packaged with LSA’s signature 5 Zero cocktail recipe, developed exclusively for the brand’s birthday. With tall hand-drawn stems and luxurious metal accents or with handpainted mother of pearl finishes, the glasses match the limited-quantity Host series of bowls for a complete celebration tabletop.
Byzance
Raynaud Opulent and ornate, the Byzance plate reflects Raynaud’s extravagant style and blends gold patterning with deep navy and a crisp white serving space. The history of Raynaud can be traced back to the 19th century, when coloured and gilded designs were applied to delicate Limoges porcelain – which remains a hallmark of the company to this day. With pieces handmade in France, Raynaud is the only remaining of the original Limoges houses.
www.lsa-international.com
www.raynaud.fr
Oscillate
Mad Men
Taking inspiration from architectural detail, mechanics and the atomic attractions that bind materials together, Royal Crown Derby has produced a pattern that delights with its texture and suggestion of movement. The collection features a tactile surface mesh design and is hand finished in 22-carat gold. Offered in Ochre Yellow and Onyx Black, the geometric motif complements the modern coupe shape of the tableware it adorns, allowing for precise matching or a playful mix of the two colourways.
Neither subtle or inconspicuous, the Mad Men collection from Waterford is, as the name suggests, a celebration of the popular period television show. Bands of rich gold and platinum are as wide as Don Draper’s lapels and the deep cutting and heft of each piece of crystal conveys a complexity worthy of the now complete drama series. As well as tumblers, the collection features gold patterned highball glasses, crystal decanter and mixology pitcher.
www.royalcrownderby.co.uk
www.waterford.co.uk
Royal Crown Derby
Waterford
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PETITS FOURS
Smoked Salmon
Hansen & Lydersen From Chiltern Firehouse and Le Meurice Paris, to Roux at the Landau and Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, Hansen & Lydersen has established itself as a premium supplier of smoked salmon to leading hotel F&B destinations. Sourced from a sustainable farm in the ‘extreme wilderness’ between the Norwegian Sea and the North Atlantic, each salmon is prepared less than 48 hours from when it is fished and is subsequently hand-filleted and hand-salted according to a family recipe, devised by Norwegian fishmonger Lyder-Nilsen Lydersen in 1923. Firmly a family business, the company is currently headed by Ole Hansen, great-grandson of Lydersen - who developed the juniper and beech wood smoking recipe still used today. It’s this commitment to Nordic tradition that sees the company proclaim ‘we do not believe in paper thin slicing’, instead cutting the fish vertically in thick slices as is the Norwegian style. ‘Made to order’ from a smokehouse in North London, the salmon is never frozen, vacuum-packed or wrapped in plastic. While these techniques may artificially prolong the shelf life of salmon, once opened it expires rapidly. But by avoiding these practices Hansen & Lydersen’s salmon can last for around 10 days simply refrigerated and wrapped in paper. www.hansen-lydersen.com
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ADVERTISING INDEX
41 Madison Armand De Brignac
012 & 013
Martell Cognac Martini Riserva Speciale
006 & 007 077
Avenista 158
Mumm
Bimber Distillery
107
Oneida 045
Black Isle Brewing Company
115
Orangina 155
Bodegas Marques de Caceres
069
014 & 015
Robert Welch
004
Bonna 063
Rombouts Coffee
162
Boodles Gin
Ron Barcelo
145 020
010 & 011
Burleighs Gin
105
Simon Jersey
Chef Works
091
Sipsmith 022
Cocktail Kingdom
167
Speyside Glenlivet
Continental Chef Supplies
099
St Hugo KV
073 008 & 009
Cosentino 160
The Menu Shop
164
Courvoisier
Tiger Company
061
Disaronno 054
To The Table Asia
141
Elektra Coffee Machines
To The Table MEA
148
EquipHotel 152
VEEN Waters
029
Frobishers 103
Villeroy & Boch
057
HEPP 025
Volga Linen
026
Hildon
Warner Edwards Gin
169
HX
016 & 017
138
018 & 019 111
Wedgwood 172
Ian Macleod Distillers
147
Wemyss Malts
Ikon Furniture
143
WMF 059
Ingrid Lesage Creations
095
Zieher 157
Jim Beam
166
135
137
151
PRO FE SSIO N A L BA RWA R E www.CocktailKingdom.com
THE WASHING UP
Issue 2 of Supper has seen us capitalise on our pool of international contributors to bring an increasingly global perspective on the projects and concepts driving the industry. For this issue that also led us to Amsterdam, where our centrefold was shot. As well a literal take on the F&B offering at Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol, Studio Appétit adopted a conceptual approach with images intended to invoke the Dutch inspiration that pervades the hotel’s restaurant and bar spaces. Featuring classic regional novelties, such as models of windmills, clogs and bicycles, the concept images fuse items from the hotel’s menu with a bold aesthetic element intended to inspire. Ido Garini, owner and creative director of Studio Appétit, produced a series of custom confections specifically for the spread, taking traditional culinary elements associated with Amsterdam and reimagining them as novel, theatrical delicacies. The tableware on display is a mix of pieces from the hotel’s collection and more avant-garde items, including diamond presentation plates from Studio Appétit and presentation dishes developed as a collaboration between the studio and product designer Hilla Shamia. Creative collaboration is central to the hotel F&B industry and at Supper we will continue to seek opportunities to work with other disciplines to bring new projects to life. I’d like to thank all of those involved in our second issue and, as always, we appreciate your feedback. Should you have any questions or suggestions feel free to drop me an email at h.mckinley@mondiale.co.uk. Until our next Supper.
Harry McKinley | Editor
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WARNER EDWARDS DISTILLERY Falls Farm, Harrington, Northamptonshire, NN6 9NU t: +44 (0)1536 710623 e: info@warneredwards.com w: www.warneredwards.com
T h e H O S P I T A L I T Y C oll e ctio n
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