ISSUE 8
Jason Atherton
The star chef on social dining and going global
Monica Berg
From Norway to her way, a career behind the bar
Robert Angell
Why timeless F&B design will always be in style
“Be noticed” “If we don’t get lost, we’ll never find a new route.”
— Jesse Kalisher
— Joan Littlewood
kalisher.com
2017-10-Kalisher-Supper-New-Route-Ad.indd 1
9/5/17 3:14 PM
CONTENTS
Setting
SPECIALS
Entrée 009
Starters
The Politics of Dining
Keepers Kitchen & Bar
SIPPING Cocktails 043
Hung Tong & Red Sugar
Appetisers 013
Kerry Hotel, Hong Kong
Trends and concepts impacting the world of
Momofuku
global hotel F&B
The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas Morelli
Pineapple Old Fashioned
081
Pulitzer Bar, The Pulitzer, Amsterdam
Mercure Bristol Grand Hotel 044
Seven Years in Tibet
082
The Thief Bar, The Thief, Oslo 046
Madame Butterfly
084
Po, Warehouse Singapore 048
Hotel Viu, Milan La Capitale
050
SERVICE
Drinks A Dead Rabbit in Claridge’s
Four Seasons Hotel Amman
The Future of the Bar is Now Main Course A Social Enterprise
086
Claridge’s, London
018
Botanist
Chef Jason Atherton discusses modern
Fairmont Pacific Rim, Vancouver
dining and why hotels are getting it wrong
Jean-Georges Beverly Hills
090
New Waves in Wine 096 060
What’s Brewing?
102
064
Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills From Norway to Her Way
024
Nobu Shoreditch
Bartender Monica Berg talks culture clashes
Nobu Hotel Shoreditch
and gender labels
La Terazza
068
SIDES
072
Hotel Eden, Rome A Life Creative
030
Designer Robert Angell on why timelessness
La Dame de Pic
076
Events 114 Robert Welch 124
Four Seasons Hotel at Ten Trinity Square
Petits Fours 129
will always be in style
The Washing Up The Importance of Being Noticed Branding design in Hotel F&B
036
154
Guy Heksch, Pure Grey
SPREAD An Estonian Exploration
051
003
Setting
“Being a chef is all well and good, but if you don’t learn how to make money from what you create then you’re nothing more than a good cook.” Chef Jason Atherton on building a restaurant empire.
ENTRée
The Politics of Dining
W
e live in turbulent times. There’s perhaps not a period in
ethos attractive for two bartenders who had reached their zenith in their
history when this wasn’t true, but there’s little doubt that
native Belfast. It’s an idea that is under threat in an age more defined by
the status quo has shifted, and continues to shift, in ways
division and closing borders than big dreams.
that few would have predicted. Some would argue that
Conversely, anti-tourism movements are sweeping through some cities
politics is not a topic for the dinner table, and yet there’s no doubt that
– from Dubrovnik to Venice – and even turning violent, as in the case of
it’s having an impact on it – along with the hospitality industry as a whole.
Barcelona, where a coach full of visitors was attacked in July. Of course the
In the UK, Brexit continues to breed uncertainty. But even while
situation in Catalonia, one of the most popular travel destinations globally,
significant hotel projects are opening apace - the likes of London’s Nobu
is only exacerbated by an on-going tussle with the Spanish government
Hotel Shoreditch (p68) – the negative impact on the industry is already
over independence that sees armed forces on the streets, mass protests and
being felt.
images of bludgeoned residents beamed around the world. Operators are
According to a KPMG report, based on a survey of British Hospitality
getting jittery about what this means for visitor rates. This kind of disorder
Association members, citizens of other EU countries could make up ‘as
in traditionally stable regions means tourists now exist in an increasingly
much as a quarter of the 3 million workers in UK hospitality’. That includes
enduring state of angst, something industry intelligence platform Skift
25% of chefs and 75% of waiting staff. Now, net migration in the UK is
has billed ‘permanxiety’.
down and more EU citizens are leaving than arriving. For hotels seeking to
So where do we go from here and what do these global forces mean
staff their restaurants and bars with able, experienced and suitably trained
for the hotel F&B sector? Staffing shortages and tourism numbers are
people, that’s a problem. For those EU citizens embedded in the industry
undoubtedly two very different issues, but in the current climate the
and seeking to stay, a period of innovation-stifling ambiguity lies ahead.
problems with each are arguably fuelled by the same root: a sense of
When I sat with Chef Jason Atherton (p18), he lamented the current state
being unwelcome.
of affairs, saying, “Until the government really lays out what Brexit means
It’s little surprise that an unwelcoming environment is at odds with an
to us as an industry, it’s very difficult to see how we could continue to
industry so named because it is ‘hospitable’. Hospitality has always been
invest on a substantial level.”
a living example of how diversity breeds creativity and hotels in particular
Of course, the UK is not alone in its political upheaval. Seldom a day goes
have long provided a gateway for workers from other climes. When they are
by that President Trump doesn’t generate eyebrow-raising headlines and,
made to feel like pariahs the whole industry suffers. Perpetuate uncertainty
at the time of writing, a revised travel ban affecting eight countries is set
and, again, the whole industry suffers, for few things inhibit vision like
to come into effect - amid further protests and legal challenges. Whilst the
a lack of security.
ban is unlikely to have the same direct impact on hospitality as Brexit, it
For visitors, amid on-going political rhetoric, angry locals and
no less fosters a cultural perception off-putting to would-be settlers and
continuing concerns over issues like global terrorism, hotels more than
travellers alike; international tourism numbers in the USA are down. For
ever must provide convivial sanctuaries for those on the road – where the
hotels that rely on global guests spending in their F&B venues, it’s arguably
food is good, the drinks well made and where the service comes with a
only a matter of time before they feel the pinch.
smile that says, “we’re happy to have you”.
I recently met with Sean Muldoon and Jack McGarry of New York’s Dead
So we do indeed live in turbulent times, but it’s in periods like these that
Rabbit bar, in London to oversee a pop-up of their venue at Claridge’s
the hospitality industry has a responsibility to live up to its name and
(p86). They documented their own ‘immigrant story’, leaving Northern
ensure that – whether serving or sitting - all feel welcome at the dinner
Ireland for New York in search of increased prospects in the industry. For
table, regardless of politics.
them, the USA truly was the land of opportunity - its open-for-business
Harry McKinley | Editor
009
THE BRIGADE
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APPETISERS
Pop Stars
As a new generation of consumers comes of age, the
premium brand with a focus on hospitality.”
term ‘pop-up’ is notoriously ubiquitous, associated with
Allowing established hotels the opportunity to experiment
experiences characterised by surprise offerings, conceptual
with, and further determine, the makeup of their audience,
approaches and guerrilla-esque tactics. Be they limited
the pop-up concept has the ability to draw guests to a bar or
edition menus, themed events, or a series of close-knit
restaurant they might otherwise avoid. In the reverse, the
collaborations, pop-up merchants have aligned themselves
approach also lends names perhaps better known elsewhere
with a generation seeking new experiences as opposed
the chance to expand into markets untapped.
to the comfortable familiarity of an established offer.
The Dead Rabbit, Sean Muldoon and Jack McGarry’s celebrated Irish drinking tavern, for example, took over the
“We’re a growing brand and pop-ups allow us the
bar space at Claridge’s Mayfair for a week, with the intention
flexibility to test concepts at a lower cost commitment than
of bringing New York’s finest to the London masses and
having a permanent space,” says Melanie Goldsmith, co-
recreating the bar’s 19th century aesthetic in a new setting.
founder and managing director of Smith & Sinclair, a studio
Behind the scenes, these events can create brand synergy
that has recognised this emerging market as a potentially
and generate wider buzz that benefits both bar and those
lucrative one. They create a range of experiences that can be
temporarily occupying it. British GQ’s GQ Bar at Rosewood
tailored to venues wishing to offer guests something out of
London made the hotel’s outdoor terrace its home for 3
the ordinary. “Pop-ups mean that you never get the same
months to support the publication’s F&B awards programme,
experience twice,” she adds.
giving guests a physical insight into the brand’s ethos. As
The studio’s edible alcohol shop on Carnaby Street –
a franchise it also holds a permanent location within JW
stocking cocktail flavoured candyfloss and fruit pastilles,
Marriott Marquis Dubai’s Entertainment Wing. Likewise,
amongst other delights – turned heads at the tail-end of 2016,
the popularity of Luke Dale Roberts’ pop-up restaurant at
whilst a collaboration with The Sanderson Hotel’s Purple Bar
Johannesburg’s The Saxon Hotel led to a permanent residence
and designer Philippe Starck resulted in the creation of The
thanks to the acclaim it garnered.
Flavour Rooms, a seasonal run at the Fitzrovia property that
With their limited runs and blink-and-you’ll-miss-it
blended bar, restaurant and event elements for an immersive
sense of exclusivity, the power of pop-up concepts could
hotel F&B experience.
prove a key element in the progression of the hotel F&B
“They’re an incredible hotel team that were open to
industry as it enters a period defined by shorter attention
exploring, so were aligned with our vision for the menu and
spans and in which new customers will be seeking new ideas,
target demographic,” Goldsmith continues. “Working with
new concepts and new venues, all of the time.
The Sanderson helped us to establish ourselves further as a
013
APPETISERS
Stars in Their Eyes
“We believe that the expectations from Michelin are at
a starred venue are likely to expect a very specific form of
odds with achievable profit margins and put an enormous
setting and menu. The system has far from grown stale,
stress on a small family-run business like ours,” says
but it has arguably slowed the rate of experimentation in
Wendy Matheson, co-owner of Boath House Hotel in
the context of ambience and service, with one false step in
Auldearn, Scotland, on the decision to request that its
these respects resulting in the loss of a star and, for many
Michelin Star rating be stripped. “The feedback we are
restaurants, the loss of revenue or perceived prestige.
hearing time and time again from our customers is that
For Boath House, the star was considered restrictive, with
they want an experience that is more informal and relaxed
the management team feeling that it forced them to cultivate
and this extends to the restaurant, the food and even how
a formal atmosphere despite guests wanting something a
it is served.”
little looser. Being stripped of the star by Michelin for not
Since 1926 the Michelin Star has been recognised as a
adhering to the expected setting could be perceived as the
near-universal indicator of quality. Awarded to outstanding
restaurant having tumbled in quality rather than overhauling
establishments overseen by the most esteemed chefs, it
its style. And so asking to be stripped allows them to revaluate,
signifies prestige, quality and the finest of fine dining.
reconnect and address guest feedback, keeping the spirit of
Recently, however, the rating has become more of a burden
the restaurant in mind as opposed to the award itself.
than a blessing for some.
014
However, Michelin now looks to be addressing these issues
Matheson and Boath House became the second in as
and tinkering with both its system and the perceptions of its
many weeks to air their displeasure with the star, following
awards. Two Singaporean food stalls made history in 2016 by
renowned three-star recipient Sébastien Bras’s request not
becoming the first street vendors to receive a star, hinting
to be included in the 2018 edition of the guide, whilst citing
that the association between the award and formal settings
the ‘great pressure’ of being involved.
may be coming to an end. Operating from modest shop fronts
“This has been a beautiful challenge, [and] a source of great
and selling at a fraction of the expected Michelin price, the
satisfaction with the evolutions that we have brought about,”
recognition of Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and
he told French news agency AFP. “But also a great pressure,
Noodle, and Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle’s food over their
which inevitably accompanies the distinction of the The
atmosphere could signal a sea change, not just in Michelin
prestige and recognition associated with the star can boost
circles but for the restaurant industry at large. Now there
a restaurant to that elusive next level, providing a widely
is precedent, and now that the guide is actively seeking to
acknowledged platform on which to operate. However, the
redefine its system, we may see increasingly unconventional
lack of a competing award of the same measure has resulted
recipients of star ratings, or perhaps the emergence of a new
in something of a narrow scope, meaning that diners visiting
alternative to fill the gap.
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APPETISERS
Multi-sense and Sensibility
Following the implementation of a blanket multi-sensory
block, whilst the Asian inspired mix is served in fine china,
concept at Geneva’s Hôtel N’v’Y in 2011, the property
with the colour of the cup determined by how the bartender
reported a 12% increase in average rates, as well as a slew
perceives the mood of the guest.
of glowing reviews and a notable boost in Tripadvisor
At Bristol Harbour Hotel, meanwhile, Understory created a
ratings. Comprising sonic design by Béatrice Ardisson,
series of experiences titled Origin, Past, Future and Present,
a celebrated composer of ambient television music; art
comprising multisensory concepts built around the core
curation by architect Patrick Ribes; and an exclusive scent
ingredient of chocolate. Combining elements of tasting session,
by Isabelle Maillebiau, head perfumer at IPG fragrances,
theatre, tarot and psychology, guests were indulged with
the project proved itself more than just a gimmick, with
handmade artisan edibles whilst taking in stimulation from a
concrete returns.
wealth of sources, with the goal being to have them feel like
“Multisensory art can offer guests a once in a lifetime
Extending the sensory experience to include temporal and
an experience design studio. “It can communicate your hotel’s
narrative facets, as well as memory – with part of the event
ethos in a visceral, tangible manner that resonates emotionally.
taking place within the hotel’s converted bank vault, here
When hotels already pour such care and attention into the
repurposed as a memory vault – Understory’s work highlights
aesthetics of a reception, the scent of a corridor or the texture
that there is still unexplored ground to cover in this respect,
of wallpaper, multisensory art can stimulate and draw attention
and perhaps more than the five traditional senses to consider.
to these details, making for a more memorable trip.”
“At Understory we consider the senses as seven, not five,”
Where the dominant senses in hotel design remain the
Wheale adds. “We list them as sight, scent, touch, taste,
aesthetic and visual cues, designers and operators alike are
hearing, memory and emotion. If you ignore memory and
now seeking to excite the senses that often go unappreciated.
emotion when considering sensory design then your work will
F&B, however, is a very different sphere, and aesthetics perhaps
fail to resonate. The senses are also cross-modal, one sparks off
fall behind taste and smell in the pecking order of elements to
another or are combined into a singular experience.”
consider. So how to find a balance between the senses here, and to turn this into an element of both profit and intrigue?
Blending taste, smell and aesthetics with less tangible, more abstract elements, these programmes demonstrate
The Donovan Bar within Brown’s Mayfair introduced its
the creativity required in pulling off a multisensory concept
Around the Globe cocktail menu in 2016 as an experiment with
successfully. Any operator can pump scents into a room, or
these concepts. Comprising a menu presented on seven cards,
play music to fit a theme, but to keep guests returning and
each scented with an aroma representing a continent, guests
impressed, designers must now create truly multisensory F&B
smell the cards to choose a cocktail, which are then served
experiences, the kind that sees guests remembering lost senses,
in vessels from glass teacups to totem poles. The Antarctica
and which at the same time recalibrates the traditional five.
cocktail is based, suitably, around ice and served in a large ice
016
they were encountering chocolate for the first time.
experience,” explains James Wheale, founder of Understory,
SERVICE
“I don’t think the bar scene would have evolved in the way that it did if a generation of creative bartenders hadn’t found themselves working in hotels.” Bartender Monica Berg on the impact of hotel bars.
SERVICE
A Social Enterprise Chef Jason Atherton discusses modern dining, hotels getting it wrong and why you can’t take a margin to the bank.
Words: Harry McKinley
F
igurehead of a restaurant empire that stretches
typical pursuits like watching television. Instead, he
from Australia to the USA - via Asia, the Middle
was conscripted into luggage carrying, washing up or
East and his native Britain – Jason Atherton
preparing toast during the breakfast rush.
is that ever so modern combination of chef,
At that time the prawn cocktail, steak dinner and
entrepreneur and media personality. He struggles
the stodgy pud were in fashion, and Atherton’s
to pass through any of his 17 restaurants without
mum was a dab hand at all, serving them up at the
eager diners interrupting him for a chat, a signature
guesthouse’s restaurant. It’s perhaps a far cry from
on a cookbook or the now essential selfie. When
the kind of cuisine he deals in today, but from an early
we meet him at London’s Pollen Street Social - his
age hospitality was ‘seeping into his blood’ and service
flagship standalone and first venue as an independent
with a smile was second nature.
restaurateur – we see this admiration in action. It’s at
“We’ve had a bit of a bad rap over the years,”
the tail end of lunch service and he is barely through
says Atherton, on the perception of modern British
the door when passing diners stop to offer their
hospitality. “People don’t want to serve. But all the
congratulations on a satisfying dining experience,
way back to Victorian times, British people had been
passing over still-fresh hardcovers for a scribble from
really good at hospitality. I just think we lost our way a
the writer. He takes it all in his stride, well-mannered
bit. Thank goodness it’s all coming back and we’ve got
to a fault and smiling as he thanks them for their
a lot of British sommeliers, British cooks and people
custom and expresses his hope to see them again.
who want to be good at service.”
It’s all part of the service game, something Atherton
For Atherton, good service doesn’t just seem to
is deeply familiar with having grown up in the world
be a matter of good business, it’s almost a cultural
of hotels. His mother ran a 35-bedroom guesthouse in
imperative; with the ability to deliver an enjoyable
Skegness; a seaside town on England’s east coast that
experience to others through care and attention
was once a popular destination for local holidaymakers.
something nearly lost to the passage of time. Here in
Everyone was expected to chip in, and as a child, and
the UK, at least.
then a teenager, Atherton was afforded little time for
“People have forgot that service can be a career,” he
019
says, gesturing at the primly dressed restaurant staff preening the space for the evening to come. “I know times have changed, but I moved to
‘rules’. Few things irk him more than inflexible dining experiences. “If someone wants to have the tasting menu and their partner
London at 16 and was washing pots. Now we have restaurants all over
doesn’t, what’s the problem?” he says, exasperated. “I wanted to
the world.”
provide the service standard and the quality of food, but take all of the
Atherton chuckles when we bring up his spell in the Army Catering
fluff away. There’s nothing worse than getting a briefing about your
Corps. All eight weeks of it. Realising almost instantly that he loathed
meal and hearing about how the ingredients were grown by some crazy
being there, he convinced them to let him leave. “It’s amazing now that
man in the South Downs with 15 scarecrows. It’s cold by the time you
there were all of these principles I hated, like getting up early and being
get to eat it. So restaurants go through this whole rigmarole and most
told what to do,” he says, “but then you would have this very disciplined
people don’t care. If they’re interested, they’ll ask.”
lifestyle in a Michelin-starred restaurant that was very similar to the
Atherton’s easy, adaptable and guest-centric approach would change
army. The difference was I was creating beautiful food, so I was happy to
the dining landscape in the British capital and, by the time he had three
put up with everything else that went with it.”
standalone restaurants pulling in crowds, he was being tapped to enter
Before Atherton struck out on his own, he worked for some of the industry’s leading lights - the likes of Marco Pierre White, Pierre
the hotel sphere. Berners Tavern, at The London EDITION, would go on to solidify his
Koffmann and Ferran Adrià. He credits them with shaping his cooking
bankability, but it also forced him to think about hotel dining in a way
style and teaching him about creativity in food. Gordon Ramsay – for
that he hadn’t previously. “You have Ian Schrager and Bill Marriott
whom Atherton oversaw the global expansion of the Maze brand – he
coming together for what was a new hotel brand at the time. They ate
credits for teaching him about business, even if previous headlines
all over London and tried countless menus, and ultimately decided
demonstrate that it wasn’t always plain sailing.
that what I was producing was what they wanted in their hotel, but in
“He taught me that being a chef is all well and good, but if you don’t learn how to make money from what you create then you’re nothing
an all-day dining version,” Atherton recalls. “At the time I remember wondering why they wanted me - this little chef with just three restaurants – but they felt I understood the London marketplace better than anyone else. So I set about creating a menu that means someone
“Any chef who tells you they don’t have an ego is lying, and it’s not that I need to feed it, but sometimes I do want to show off.”
could come in and have a slice of toast and a cup of tea in the morning, all the way through to afternoon tea, lunch and dinner. It had to encompass gastronomy but also cater to the guy who has just checked in and wants steak and chips, a glass of red wine and no fuss.” He admits that at first he struggled and found the process more difficult than he imagined he would. Up until that point he was used to
more than a good cook,” he says. “I hate the term businessman. I prefer
sending out carefully considered dishes that catered only to those who
entrepreneur. But that lesson from Gordon has moulded how I think
chose to frequent his restaurants. But in a hotel, of course, one must
about my work and career; we have our own range of glassware with
cater for everyone, and whilst the fanciful can often be appreciated, it’s
John Jenkins, our own wine, we sell cookbooks, have restaurant brands,
also necessary to provide the basics when needs be.
work with hotel groups and consult. “The business is much more complex than some people realise. When you buy a lease for a restaurant, you’re buying a piece of property and
I realised through thinking about hotel dining, is that you don’t need to.
your first boss is the landlord. Our rent here at Pollen Street Social is
That was a big learning curve for me; how to be restrained with food.”
half a million a year. So before I open that front door, I need to make
Today, Atherton has numerous hotel restaurants under his belt,
sure that I have £45,000 in the bank to cover the month’s rent. Then
including Kensington Street Social at The Old Clare Hotel in Sydney;
I’ve got to pay the staff, turn the lights on, buy produce, pay the linen
The Clocktower at The New York EDITION; and Marina Social at
company, replace broken items, cover the telephone bills, you name it.
InterContinental Dubai Marina. Whilst the latter is as popular as when it
If you’re not good at balancing the books then you won’t be in business
opened in 2015, he admits that he wasn’t entirely satisfied with the end
very long.”
result and is pushing for change.
Having spent years working for the behemoth that is Gordon Ramsay
020
“Any chef who tells you they don’t have an ego is lying,” he says, “and it’s not that I need to feed it, but sometimes I do want to show off. What
“I’d like to do a refurbishment as I don’t like the dining room,”
Group, it would be easy to assume that Atherton always had global
he says, with trademark honesty. “That was the first restaurant I’d
aspirations, but the dream was initially to open just one restaurant –
signed in Dubai and I was so excited, but in terms of look it could be in
which would become the one in which we’re sat. It would earn a Michelin
Nairobi or Moscow. I wish it could be more in keeping with the London
star within six months of opening and its success was in no small part
restaurants. For me, it feels too much like a hotel dining room. I’m not
thanks to Atherton’s rethink of what fine dining means in a modern age.
blaming IHG, or the owner [Select Group], as they’re all fantastic people
As he explains, before Pollen Street Social guests could rarely walk into a
to work with, I’m blaming myself for not keeping a tighter grip on what
Michelin-star restaurant and have a beer at the bar. They were perceived
I really wanted. We didn’t have enough control over the design there,
as formal spaces, bogged down in off-putting strictness and arbitrary
and I’d never let that happen again.”
SERVICE
Berners Tavern, The London EDITION
021
SERVICE
Marina Social, InterContinental Dubai Marina
Noting the need for distinctive design in hotel F&B, as opposed to
patch with Brexit, we’re still here, still paying our bills and we haven’t
generic interiors across brands, Atherton continues to show his sense
laid a single member of staff off,” he says. “We employ 1,200 people
for what guests these days want. Whilst he’s enamoured with Dubai,
and we paid something like £17million in tax last year. We’re a massive
describing it as one of his favourite destinations, when asked what
contributor to the system, which keeps everyone else in a job. But now
hotel restaurants can learn from standalones, he pinpoints it as being
we have to hold fort in London. Until the government really lays out
indicative of all that is wrong with the sector.
what Brexit means to us as an industry, it’s very difficult to see how we
“Hotels there have to stop opening a ridiculous number of F&B outlets. Guests aren’t looking for that. It’s a waste of money and it’s destroying the dining scene,” he says. “It’s also stifling creativity and
and threaten my business with so many unknowns.” When Atherton talks about his business and the sacrifices it has
in what is still a very young city that needs fresh ideas.” He lays the
required, it’s difficult not to frame his endeavours as the archetypal
blame at the feet of the hotels, which should be looking to outside F&B
success story. He describes throwing his whole life into it and, even
professionals to develop their programmes. “Hotels go and employ F&B
though it came at a cost, he has no regrets. “David Beckham wasn’t a
directors, who are middle management, and most of the time they know
great footballer. He worked hard doing what he loved,” he explains. “I
nothing about F&B. This job is not about margins, it’s about hospitality
did 90 hours a week in the kitchen for nearly 20 years and that’s why
- creativity, great food and great service. Once you have all of those
I have the bank of knowledge that I have today. It’s why I can look
things pushed into your magic bubble, then you need someone smart at
at food in a different way from how someone else looks at it. People
the bottom to say ‘time to look at margins’. You can’t take a margin to
might say I’m crazy because I’ve never had a life, but once I found my
the bank, so it’s irrelevant.”
success, the life I have has been magnified a thousand times. It’s a
In terms of what’s next for the ever-expanding group, plans are afoot for ‘something big’ in mainland China in 2018. On home turf, however,
life that a boy from Skegness, who left school with no qualifications, shouldn’t be having.”
plans have ground to halt. A period of political uncertainty has swept the
With that our time together is up, and as Atherton gathers his
UK and Atherton is visibly piqued. After all, uncertainty is almost always
belongings and prepares to take the helm in the kitchens for dinner
bad for business.
service, we resist the temptation to have a cookbook signed or, heaven
“We have a really solid company. Even though we’re having a rocky
022
could continue to invest on a substantial level. I’m not going to expand
forbid, lean in for a selfie
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From Norway to Her Way Bartender Monica Berg talks culture clashes, labels and why breaking the law lead her to the career she loves.
Words: Harry McKinley
W
hen it comes to interviews at Artesian, at The
into a bar and describes how she was always drawn to social
Langham London, we’ve had an amusingly
roles. Her first job at 14 was working in an ice cream shop and
unfortunate run. Once stood up by Alex
by 16 she was a server for an events company. One night, at
Kratena, at the time head bartender, it was
18 (below the legal age for serving spirits in Norway), she was
a case of history repeating when his business partner and
accidentally put behind the bar. “I made my first gin and tonic
internationally-celebrated bartender Monica Berg failed to
and I just thought, I am home, I have arrived, this is where I
show on our originally allotted day. These things happen
want to be,” she says, laughing.
of course and, like Kratena, Berg was unfailingly polite
At 19 she spent a year in Greece, where the same age
and unendingly mortified that our first attempt fell off the
restrictions didn’t apply, returning to Norway when she could
schedule. Bartenders of this calibre are busy people these days
pursue her bar work in less clandestine fashion, alongside her
and, as they flit from continent to continent, project to project,
studies. Gradually, she says, she spent less and less time in
the occasional coffee morning is bound to get lost in the
the classroom and more behind the bar. “I worked everywhere
maelstrom. If nothing else, it’s given us a keen familiarity with
from nightclubs to dive bars, pubs to whisky bars, and
the bar that was once widely acknowledged as the world’s best.
eventually cocktail bars.”
“I haven’t actually been here since Alex left,” Berg notes as
In her mid twenties she accepted a role working for a
she pulls up a pew on our second go, hinting at the shift in the
bartending school and, at just 23, took over its running.
venue’s renown since Kratena, Simone Caporale and much of
Despite holding the position for five years, she was always
the wider team departed in 2015.
conscious of her age, being younger than the majority of those
She’s recently returned from Finland, but despite stepping
she was teaching. “For the first three years I did nothing but
off a plane the evening before, she’s found time this morning
read,” she explains. “I felt that if I could answer all of the
to regain some semblance of routine - a yoga mat dangling
questions, or at least try to answer all of the questions, then
from her backpack. Tomorrow she’ll be flying off again, this
age wouldn’t matter.”
time to Spain for a sun-soaked weekend and some downtime. Hailing from Oslo, Berg believes she was destined to be a bartender. In her adolescence she rearranged her bedroom
Still hankering for the buzz of the bar, Berg left the school and returned to fulltime bar work. It was a changing time for the industry, with bar shows and competitions springing up,
025
offering an opportunity for bartenders to showcase their work and mix
people making it look easy,” she explains. “If you want to have a career
with peers on an international scale. She travelled extensively and it was
inside a hotel, you have to accept the fact that there is always going to
at her second Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans that she met Alex
be politics and there are a lot more skills needed than just to be able to
Kratena, her future friend, collaborator and business partner. This was
make drinks.”
2012 and eight months later she had shuttered her life in Norway and decamped to the UK, where she is still based today. “It took me a long time when I moved to the UK just to learn how not
With her own bartenders, Berg proselytises the importance of taking joy in being ‘just a bartender’, particularly in environments that arguably cultivate creativity more than hotels. “It’s the only period in
to be Norwegian,” she says, on the Scandinavian British culture clash.
your career where you have the time to care only about yourself,” she
“Sometimes people perceive you as very rude, even though it’s not the
says. “If you want to be a bar manager, you have to accept that your
intention. In Norway we have a very practical, straightforward way of
time as a bartender is over and the focus becomes more on choosing and
thinking about things. If I need an answer, I’m used to being direct as
nurturing talent, and helping them become better than you. If you still
opposed to asking how someone’s weekend was first.” Chuckling as
have the ego and the drive, and want to make a name for yourself, then
she details the differences in social norms between her home and her
you shouldn’t be a manager.”
adopted home, it’s difficult to tell if she was simply misunderstood, or
Sat at Artesian, it’s hard not to note the importance of talent. With its
if her time in Blightly has softened her frank Nordic edges. Certainly she
elaborate, David Collins-designed interior, it’s undeniably a beautiful
seems more jovial than the average Londoner.
space, but since the departure of its core team, it has gone from the
Berg’s career has consistently moved in an upward trajectory and
number one spot with World’s 50 Best Bars – four years in a row no
is more varied than most. She’s worked with the likes of Thon Hotels,
less - to slipping off the list entirely. While its star will undoubtedly rise
was the bar manager at Jason Atherton’s Pollen Street Social and is
once more, it’s a lesson for hotels that attracting the right figures will
the creative force behind HIMKOK back in Oslo, to name a few. In
always be crucial for success, but that retaining them may require more
many ways she’s been front and centre of an industry that has evolved
flexibility than they’re known for.
dramatically since she first entered it.
“It’s not necessarily about the individuals, but the team is very important,” says Berg, now in slightly hushed tones, lest any of the hotel’s HR team be within earshot. “This bar is very decadent, but what
“I’ve been in this industry for a long time and so I know how it works. Working in a hotel bar is very different to working on the outside and it’s a double-edged sword.”
made it so special is that it felt like home, and that was down to the energy of the team. It could have been anywhere. In fact, a lot of the investment in hotel bars has not necessarily been in London, but in growing markets like Asia; markets that are attracting both local and international talent. “Manhattan in Singapore is an incredible bar. The initial investment was, of course, on the design and the build, but they’ve also managed to get the right people, continue to train them, and also attract new people. You could take that team and if they were doing a pop-up it still would
Artesian seemed the perfect spot for our rendezvous, not least because she once named it one of her favourite bars – during its heyday under Kratena and Caporale – but also because the hotel bar at large has seen a dramatic shift in perception, spearheaded by venues such as this. “London has always been a centre for hotel bars, but it used to be very
It’s because they’re a skilled and passionate group.” In her years in the industry Berg has developed her own take on what makes for successful training and progression. She’s a firm believer in not taking the easy path and in a combination of education and practical
stiff,” she says. “The first time I came to Artesian was before I knew Alex
experience. Too many bartenders, she believes, enter the industry with
and I remember feeling like I didn’t belong. But after the first half hour
their eye on immediate rewards. But to excel in the long term she thinks
it felt so much more relaxed than I thought it would, and it changed my
it’s important to take it step by step. “To be able to do the job you have
mind. The team at that time was part of a generation that made the hotel
to have at least a certain amount of time in most positions,” she says.
bar more approachable. There’s this mythical world of five-star hotels
“Even if it’s for no other reason than to be able to know when people
in London, but I don’t think the bar scene would have evolved in the way
are ripping you off, if you want to do your own bar in the future. It’s
that it did if a generation of creative bartenders hadn’t found themselves
surprising how many bartenders or bar managers don’t know how to
working in hotels.” Today, one of Berg’s favourite bars is The NoMad Bar
cost their drinks. I’ve also worked quite a few years cleaning, bar backing
at The NoMad Hotel in New York, which she describes as “a completely
or serving, and it’s all part of the job. If you only judged bartending by
different style of hotel bar.” For her it is practically perfect in every way,
the three or four hours a day when it’s busy and fun to work, then it
or the Mary Poppins of hotel bars if you will.
would be a walk in the park. So you need to read and gain knowledge but
Behind the scenes, however, Berg notes that the world of hotels
026
be an amazing experience, even if the concept were completely different.
you also need to be able to connect the dots, and this you can only get
is often very different in operations than the freer landscape of
through experience. As Alex always says, ‘you need the knowledge to
standalones. “I’ve been in this industry for a long time and so I know
know that a tomato is a fruit, but the experience to understand why you
how it works. Working in a hotel bar is very different to working on
don’t put it in your fruit salad.’”
the outside and it’s a double-edged sword. Whether it’s here at The
Berg speaks often about those that inspire her, or from whom she has
Langham or at The Savoy or The Connaught, you have very skilled
gleaned pearls of wisdom, but one in particular stands out: a former
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Ruby Reserve
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Photography: Addie Chinn
boss from her time working at a brewery as a teenager. “She was very
co-founded in 2016 along with fellow bartenders Alex Kratena, Ryan
make everything happen through sheer will,” explains Berg. “Even
Chetiyawardana, Jim Meehan, Simone Caporale, Joerg Meyer and Xavier
back then the brewing industry was very male dominated and everyone
Padovani. P(OUR) was envisaged as a programme to allow bartenders
respected her immensely.”
to share experiences, and includes an annual symposium which, for
The topic of women in the bartending industry has been covered ad
the past two years, has been held in Paris in conjunction with Cocktails
nauseam and at first we’re sure that Berg in particular must have had
Spirits. “We get to travel to a lot of places, we get to taste amazing
her fill of discussing it, seeing as she is often held up as the poster girl
things, and that’s not always the case for many bartenders. You reach
for gender success. But surprisingly it’s still an issue that resonates,
a point of experience in any profession where you can start giving back
for the simple fact that it’s still an issue. Whilst she describes the bar
to people that are less experienced,” she says. “Everyone is willing to
world as more open than others, there still isn’t parity in the wider
come and work for free because P(OUR) is always going to be unpaid
sphere of hospitality. She doesn’t feel that women, generally speaking,
and you have to be happy to give your time to other bartenders. We
are underrepresented, but the divide becomes clear when one looks at
wanted to create the symposium so we could discuss things that are
the upper echelons. “In the US, the majority of bartenders are female,
important to bartenders, but not necessarily linked to drinks, coffee or
believe it or not, but the higher up you go the less women there are. It’s
wine. There are other amazing bar shows that already do that and we
the same with chefs,” she explains. “50% of all cooks that go to culinary
wanted to create a space where bartenders could always talk freely and
school are women, but they represent only 13% of head chefs. Of the
not be restricted.” The result is a forum that looks more at social issues
really famous ones, it’s even less. You see ‘Chef of the Year’ awards
and concepts than the nitty-gritty of bartending. 2017 saw presentations
and then, alongside, ‘Female Chef of the Year’. So it creates an uneven
on the likes of diversity, motherhood and even on using mathematical
playing field, because why can’t a woman be Chef of the Year? For the
principles to look at the world differently. “The goal for the future would
first ten years of my career, maybe even more, I was just a bartender
be that POUR outgrows the initial people and that other bartenders
and then all of a sudden, as I gained more success, I became a female
globally can take it to be theirs,” she concludes.
bartender. I realised very early that perhaps you have to make conscious
028
Gender formed the theme of this year’s P(OUR), the initiative she
enthusiastic about being there and very solution oriented. She would
The future looks bright for Berg. A London bar with Alex Kratena and
choices. Because I like wearing dresses, once in a competition someone
Simone Caporale is on the cards, once the right location is found. Like
gave me feedback that I should stop looking like a girl and start looking
P(OUR) it will allow all of them to express themselves freely, but in the
like a bartender.” Change, she feels, will come and – despite the current
most tangible way possible for a bartender. But more than ever Berg is
sense that things are less than equitable – it’s only a matter of time
driven by a love of what she does. “If you didn’t love it you would just go
before the label of ‘female bartender’ falls away.
home, have a beer and stay with your family.” Instead, she’s off to Spain.
Visit us at:
HOST 2017 October 20-24, 2017 Fiera Rho - Milan Hall 9 - Stand A17/B18
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“The new bartender must have� Flavio Angiolillo
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A Life Creative Designer Robert Angell has spearheaded some of the most recognisable and visually-enduring hotel bars and restaurants of this generation, but despite being icons of our time, he discusses why timelessness is at the forefront of his work and why classic will always be in style.
Words: Harry McKinley
T
he Collins Room, at London’s The Berkeley, is a vision of cool grey, light-bouncing silver
Angell has always been interested in design, or at
and muted lavender. Part of a dramatic
the very least in creating things. Growing up on his
refurbishment – that also included the Blue
family’s farm he was constantly dissecting materials,
Bar, façade and lobby area - it plays host to the
as well as taking objects apart and putting them back
hotel’s fashionable afternoon tea, as well as its all-day
together again. At school he gravitated towards the
dining. It is named, of course, after the eminent David
arts and describes working with wood as the spark that
Collins – the designer who put the original Blue Bar
ignited his passion. He toyed with the idea of studying
on the map and was responsible for the revival of The
architecture at university, but decided the processes
Berkeley in the mid 2000s.
took too long, and so instead he opted for the relative
The Collins room, and freshly reimagined Blue Bar, are the work of his protégé, Robert Angell, who left
030
to the newness of what is happening today.”
immediacy of interior design. “There’s an impatience in me and I want to create instantly,” he says.
David Collins Studio in 2010 to start his own design
Long harbouring a desire to work in London, after
practice. In many ways it is a full circle for Angell –
a post-graduation stint in Leicester he moved to the
taking on a project that cemented his position as one of
big city and – through a recommendation from a
the foremost designers operating in the UK, but named
friend – found himself working with David Collins. He
for his former mentor. It seems a fitting spot to meet.
would stay with the studio for 15 years. “It was a really
“I was so proud when the owner asked me to do
beautiful part of my life,” he recalls. “It was very hard
this,” says Angell, gesturing at the busy space around
work, but David and I got on and we created amazing
us. “To get the opportunity, now David is gone, is very
things with the whole team there. He was a great
moving. I wanted to evoke the timelessness that he
mentor to me, and he used to say that I was a great
managed to bring to projects, but I also had to answer
mentor to the people who came through the studio.
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Collins Room , The Berkeley, London
“I think it’s important for design to wear in as opposed to wear out.”
Northern Ireland-based textile designer Jude Cassidy - is luxury, and designing every piece of furniture in here is luxury. We bring pieces that are individual and bespoke to interiors. It’s easy to pick stuff off the shelf, it’s difficult to design.” From the Art Deco glitz of The Savoy to the easy comfort of New
We worked in a way that there were references to artists, sculptors and
Forest’s Lime Wood, Angell has worked extensively in hotels – providing
fashion, along with historic product, furniture and interior design. Up
F&B spaces that speak to their respective audiences. Certainly Angell
until probably the 80s and early 90s, no one really looked back in the
demonstrates a keen sense of the evolution of the industry and the shift
way that they do now.”
in hotel F&B from overt formality to a more relaxed and experience-
It was in 2010 that Angell decided the time was right to fly the
into account in his own work, blending dignified design with an air of
and so Angell’s move was a gutsy one. There was no guaranteeing
effortlessness. “People are working, chilling, socialising, even chatting
personal success at the best of times, but the challenge was even greater
people up in a space that everyone wants to be in,” he says, discussing
when purse strings were tightening across the hospitality industry.
the modern atmosphere of hotel bars and restaurants. “With The Blue
Nonetheless he says he had a “sixth sense that people were looking for
Bar and Collins Room, they’re formal spaces but people come to have
things to be done differently.” Early projects, like Chelsea’s Five Fields,
a good time. If you wanted to eat, for example, in the lobby or the bar,
help him define his approach and show the industry the kind of designer
you used to be told they’re not open. That mentality has changed. It
he was: luxury, naturally, with a nod to tradition but with his eyes on
allows all of the public spaces in a hotel to have an F&B angle, and that’s
the future.
exciting. We like being together, and creating that culture in hotels is
“I think it’s important for design to wear in as opposed to wear
amazing and a change from the ideas of yesterday.” For him, success in
out,” he says, “but luxury is a difficult word. For a start it’s insanely
creating that ‘buzz’ is down to attracting locals. “Getting them active in
overused. Luxury is simplicity of touch and details. Look at the handbags
your hotel restaurant or bar is key,” he says. “It’s the locals that have
in this room, they’re all stunningly designed but different. People
the charm, wit, knowledge and sense of fun that is infectious to other
are very aware of the detail of what they’re buying and what they’re
people, particularly guests staying at the hotel.”
spending their money on. So dyeing the yarn for each colour in the soft furnishings for this room and developing the fabrics specifically – with
032
driven approach. Understandably, it’s a transition he’s had to take
comfortable environs of Collins’ studio. It was a period of recession
Legs crossed, smartly dressed in a blazer and shirt, and sipping on a cup of tea from The Berkeley’s Wedgwood collection, Angell cuts
R E N A R T E G LO B A L H O S P I TA L I T Y S U P P L I E S A SINGLE WINDOW SOURCING OPTION TO A L L YO U R H O S P I TA L I T Y N E E D S O u r j o u r n e y h a s t a ke n u s f ro m a s m a l l o f f i c e i n D u b a i to m a n a g i n g exc l u s i v e d i s t r i b u t o r s h i p o f w o r l d re n o w n e d h o s p i t a l i t y b r a n d s i n t h re e c o u n t r i e s a n d t w o c o n t i n e n t s . W h e re v e r y o u a re i n t h e w o r l d , w e h a v e t h e h o s p i t a l i t y s o l u t i o n fo r y o u .
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C A N A DA • UA E • Q ATA R w w w. r e n a r te l l c .co m
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Kaspar’s at The Savoy, London
a rather British figure. There is little about him that is ostentatious
strident, clean lines of van der Rohe seen in the uncluttered way he
or crying to be noticed. On the one hand he’s perhaps the antithesis
deals with furniture or Johnson’s consideration for subtlety displayed
of some of his projects, spaces that capture the attention and beg
in the layered approach to texture – but these are combined with an
to be observed. On the other, he’s a fitting reflection of their quiet
understanding of genuine modernity; not just in design, but in how
sophistication, where even though the design flourishes may be
we live and behave. He discusses the need to take into account the
extravagant, one never gets the feeling his bar and restaurant projects
importance of social media, describing how each scheme should provide
are yelling too loudly. “I suppose we’re developing a style that becomes
guests with a reminder to take a snap. In a grander sense he’s cognisant
English,” he says, when quizzed on whether he considers his aesthetic
of the changing cycle of hospitality and the need to engineer longevity
to be influenced by his home turf. “Having learnt my trade here, and
into his work, without veering into visual territory that feels dated. It’s
knowing and reading about English designers - whether it’s Charles
a difficult balance. “You get a new opening one week and everyone is
Rennie Mackintosh, Terence Conran or Tom Dixon - I’m always
raving about it, and the next week those same people are somewhere
designing with those peers in mind.” Equally, he gleans immense
else,” he says. “I remember a time when there was a restaurant opening
inspiration from the great modernists; architects primarily, who
every week in London, and then once or twice a year there would be
were pioneering in their day but have come to define good design and
a big hotel opening. Now, you have half a dozen restaurants opening
contemporary standards. “I love Mies van der Rohe and Philip Johnson;
every day and a hotel opening every week almost. That’s the way the
everything about their approach and thinking. Van der Rohe is famously
world is changing.”
credited as saying ‘God is in the detail’, and I appreciate the notion that
openings for the brand, but he already has his eye on a future beyond
those icons of modernist design works in terms of what we know now. It
what is already on the books. “There’s a constant desire to do
probably wasn’t appreciated at the time, but their work has since come
something new and exciting over and over again,” he says, with a glint
to be seen as timeless and beautiful.”
of that child from the farm getting inspired by the objects around him.
Angell’s place in the vanguard of design is already assured. He may
034
Next for Angell is Principal Birmingham, the latest in a line of
everything should be planned out to the nth degree. Looking back at
“As designers it’s up to us to do something fresh and inspiring, but in a
call it good fortune, others may call it a result of his cultivated talent,
way that allows it to stick around for a while.” And whilst our tea may
but he has spearheaded the kinds of projects that carry legacy and,
now be cold, we suspect that destinations like Collins Room will be hot
unquestionably, prestige. His influences play out in his designs – the
for years to come.
As a brand for sophisticated table culture, TAFELSTERN’s strengths lie in its constant endeavour to create products of perfect shape and decoration. Developing diverse stylistic collections, TAFELSTERN is a problem-solver and consultant for the hotel and restaurant business.
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TAF-17-013_ANZ_236x275+3_RZ.indd 1
23.05.17 13:04
‘The Importance of Being Noticed’ Branding design in Hotel F&B Words: Kristofer Thomas
B
e it a ubiquitous logo or unassuming
and the story behind the whole F&B concept,
typeface, the process of branding
we have to find the truth in the brand and bring
an F&B project can prove a vital and
the authenticity to life.”
fundamental ingredient in its success.
There is comfort in familiarity, and
The importance of quality fare in a restaurant’s
recognisable branding acts to build a
lasting success and prosperity cannot be
relationship with guests so as to keep a
ignored, though neither can the name, the
restaurant or bar fresh in their minds, whilst
interplay of colours within its venues, or the
also conveying key messages about the venue
font in which its menu is presented, all of which
and its values to those who encounter it.
play into the wider, complete experience, and
Hilton’s encircled H and Marriott’s red-dot M
work to form an identity. As a process, branding
logos, for example, act as shorthand for their
begins before a guest walks through the door,
values – uncomplicated, though heightened
and finishes long after they leave.
with elegant flourishes – whilst Shangri La’s
“When creating a brand identity we consider everything that a customer will hear, touch
opulence and Hong Kong origins.
and see,” says Steve Campion, director of
“We start by taking a holistic approach
DesignLSM. “It’s essential as it provides a
where we look at the client or even a specific
personality and a voice that reaches beyond
ingredient that transcends across the menu,”
the restaurant space itself.”
explains Dale Atkinson, Director at Rosendale
From the name of an establishment to the
Design. “Sometimes that ingredient can have
design of the monograms on its napkins,
a far-reaching effect on the restaurant itself.
branding studios consider F&B elements of
For example, if it is a fish restaurant then
all sizes and prominence, working to create a
sometimes we will even look at the name of
scheme that ultimately functions to generate a
the port the fish is coming in from, or the
consistent and engaging character.
name of the fishing boat that has caught
“There’s a fine line we have to tread,”
the fish. We then look at how they can then
comments Andrew Thomas, director of Inaria,
be used as a backbone for the overall brand
a luxury brand design consultancy. “Between
identity, which inevitably filters through to
marketing directors contriving a story versus
materials used on the fit-out, menu covers,
an owner who genuinely cares about the
or even fabrics on the chairs.”
prominence of the food, the quality of the offer
036
golden calligraphy-style S at once channels its
Within the context of both franchise
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Blackwood’s Bar and Grill
037
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Hawkers Bar and Brasserie
“ESSENTIALLY, WE WANT THE BRANDING TO EXUDE THE SOUL OF THE RESTAURANT”
relationship with the setting, but also instils the restaurant with its own distinct character. This dual personality is reflected in a name that offers two separate interpretations. “When a Restaurant is in a hotel the task is
038
restaurant and independent boutique, this
and perceptions, so one must be very careful how
all the more crucial as there is a dual aspect to
design process seeks to immediately depict to
the branding will be received.”
consider,” Atkinson adds. “On one hand, you
guests what to expect from the menu, in terms
Under Rosendale’s direction, the branding
have the branding of the restaurant itself, but
of quality and content, but also the tone and
aesthetic of The Game Bird at The Stafford
one must also consider the branding of the hotel,
atmosphere, the expected clientele, and the
London combines contemporary exclusivity with
especially if that restaurant does not have a
way it seeks to present itself to an audience.
grounded authenticity. The setting, reminiscent
separate entrance and one must experience the
A vibrant, colourful menu design with playful
of a members club and underscored with rustic
hotel prior to entering.”
font and layout choices will tell a guest to sit
charm, utilises elements including handcrafted
DesignLSM’s work at DoubleTree by Hilton
back, relax and enjoy the ride, whereas cursive,
drinks trolleys and artwork by young British
Hotel London Kingston Upon Thames’ Hawkers
gold-leaf lettering would lean more towards
artists to root the venue in traditional culture,
Bar and Brasserie, meanwhile, saw the studio
classicism and formality.
whilst simultaneously generating a sense of
conduct a full reconnaissance visit of the London
“Essentially, we want the branding to exude
sophistication. Complementary to the wider
borough, as well as extensive qualitative and
the soul of the restaurant,” adds Jake Raslan,
hotel’s blend of Victorian grandeur and modern
quantitative research into demographics and
Rosendale’s Creative Director. “Everything from
comfort, as well as its history as the former
target audience, to ultimately create a specific
the wordplay and colour schemes employed to
residence of Lord and Lady Lyttelton, the
idea to design around. This took the form of
fonts and typefaces carry certain connotations
branding aspect of the design creates a consistent
elements related to the venue’s historical
“Flex“
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Hawkers Bar and Brasserie
namesake – Harry Hawker, an Australian
price point,” Campion adds. “It can be good to
“With Blackwood’s it was a gift,” Thomas
aviation pioneer – resulting in signage, menus,
have a restaurant with an independent appeal,
explains. “The fact the owner put in a Josper
stationary and other ephemera subtly inspired
which is separate from the hotel brand in
grill, which acted as a centrepiece of the space
by aircraft photography and Hawker’s notable
order to attract non-guests in. This requires
and a cornerstone of the menu, and the fact we
records. DesignLSM’s work here, again, helps
an investment in a strong identity with its own
had an element of history in Blackwoods and the
distinguish the F&B offering from the wider
unique back-story, allowing the restaurant to
charcoal, the two came together perfectly, and
hotel, a key element of its character.
have its own distinctive feel and setting itapart
that’s the kind of authentic story we look for.”
“We wanted to create something that had local appeal, so drawing from the location’s
be easy to miss the level of detail that goes
history was always on the table.” Campion
choices, London-based Inaria’s branding
into branding, the unsung hero of F&B design.
explains. “Kingston has a very rich but
duties for Blackwood’s Bar & Grill – within
Though one cannot taste or smell this element,
unsung aviation history, and this informed
Nira Caledonia Edinburgh – included naming
it nonetheless forms ideas, experiences and,
all of our design choices.” The identity of the
the venue, alongside collateral, strategy and
most importantly, memories. If a studio’s
space is perhaps best captured in its logo, a
identity elements. Drawing the moniker from
branding design can capture the essence of
circular, geometric motif inspired by aerobatic
Blackwood’s Magazine, a storied local journal
a setting through imagery and consistency,
manoeuvre diagrams, whilst the classic
of which building owner John Wilson was a
and materials not directly associated with
typography within channels a nostalgic feel,
major contributor, it further links to elements
restaurant design, then the venue will be
forming a whole that combines the scheme’s
such as the charcoal used to grill its meat,
gifted something truly valuable: its own unique
two most prevalent ideals.
and leads into secondary graphics such as the
character. And if this character is memorable,
calligraphy flames illustrated across menus and
then guests will return to it, like an old friend,
marketing materials.
time and time again.
give an indication of the type of F&B offer and
Stretching
further
When dining in one of these spaces it can aesthetic
“How the branding is executed can often
040
from other brands.“ beyond
Specials
“I think it’s important for design to wear in as opposed to wear out.” Robert Angell on timeless F&B design.
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Keepers Kitchen & Bar Mercure Bristol Grand Hotel
The 182-room Mercure Bristol Grand Hotel has recently undergone an
space that benefits from rampant but curated eclecticism, with woods and
extensive refurbishment, reviving the Grade II listed building and seeing
metals softened by richly patterned textiles.
interiors almost entirely reimagined to place the hotel within the modern cultural context of the city.
Brand identity and graphic design was developed by London-based studio Mystery, and follows the same cues as Keepers Kitchen & Bar at
Ian Haigh’s Central Design Studio spearheaded the refurbishment,
Novotel London Tower Bridge – with the bee motif central, echoing the
addressing guestrooms, public areas and the hotel’s bar and restaurant,
honeycomb-shaped frame that covers one wall of the Bristol location and
Keepers Kitchen & Bar. Known for his love of artisan producers and
from which foliage hangs.
conveying a story within his work, Haigh used Bristol’s well-known street
Focusing on classic, crowd-pleasing fare, the menu primarily caters to
art scene, coupled with the historic Victorian architecture, as his main
the diversity of the staying guest – bouncing from continent to continent
inspiration and narrative for the design.
with the likes of sausage and mash sitting tooth by jowl with Italian pasta
The 108-cover bar and restaurant features bespoke furniture and
and falafel sandwiches.
lighting developed by CDS, along with antiques and vintage pieces handsourced from various flea markets over a six week period. The result is a
www.keeperslounge.co.uk
IN A BITE Covers: 108 • Interior Design: Central Design Studio • Owner: Amaris Hospitality • Operator: AccorHotels • Tableware: Goodfellows • Glassware: Artis Buffet: Merlin Buffet Systems • Brand Identity: Mystery
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Hung Tong & Red Sugar The Kerry Hotel, Hong Kong
The first hotel property in 20 years to be built on the Kowloon waterfront,
bold colour palette set against hexagonal parquet flooring.
The Kerry Hotel is an urban resort in an ever-growing metropolis.
The adjoining Red Sugar bar is decked with asymmetrical lounge seats and
Located in the historic Hung Hom, once home to Hong Kong’s dockyards,
Cadillac-inspired couches in a palette of oranges and marine greens, whilst
the 546-key development pays a nostalgic tribute to the city’s former
a bronze cocktail bar designed as a scaffolding structure and hanging
shipbuilding industry.
tropical plants convey a space that is at once luxurious yet industrial.
Designed by Hong Kong-based architect Andre Fu, Hung Tong and Red
Reinforcing the concept of urban al fresco, a garden terrace encompasses
Sugar are conceived as a stylish twofold dining experience. The culinary
steel planters, exposed aggregate and wild landscaping, whilst offering
offerings on level seven are a reflection of the heritage of Hung Hom, with
a 270-degree view over the Victoria Harbour and the modern day Hong
traditional Chinese dishes by chef Ken Yu.
Kong neighbourhood.
With ambitions to bring the city’s past alive, the 90-cover restaurant is designed as a modernist red brick pavilion set atop a vintage warehouse, featuring 60s metallic door frames, vintage-inspired leather chairs and a
www.shangri-la.com
IN A BITE Covers: 90 restaurant, 90 bar, 130 terrace • Owner: Shangri-La Asia • Operator: Shangri-La International Hotel Management • Interior Designer: Andre Fu (AFSO) • Architect: Rocco Design Architects • Menu Design: Go Public • Executive Chef: Matthew Bennink • Head Bartender: Joe Villanueva
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JOHN JE NKINS ESTABLISHED 1901
BY APPOINTMENT TO HRH THE PRINCE OF WALES SUPPLIER OF CRYSTAL GLASS JOHN JENKINS & SONS LTD T/A WILLIAM YEOWARD CRYSTAL HAMPSHIRE ENGLAND
a perfect cocktail…the perfect glass NYEWOOD, ROGATE, PETERSFIELD, HAMPSHIRE GU31 5HZ Tel: 01730 821811 Email: office@johnjenkins.co.uk NEW YORK SHOWROOM, 41 MADISON AVENUE, 13TH FLOOR, NEW YORK, NY 10010 Tel: 1-800-818-8484
www.johnjenkins.co.uk
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Momofuku Las Vegas The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas
Momofuku at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas is the latest opening for
Chang and Executive Chef Shaun King have collaborated on a menu that
the 13-strong group of restaurants founded by Chef David Chang. The
draws upon multiple international cuisines, including American, Korean,
Las Vegas outpost is designed by the Toronto-based DesignAgency, in
and Japanese. Constantly evolving, the menu features steamed buns,
collaboration with Momofuku, and draws inspiration from Las Vegas while
noodles, and meat and seafood intended for sharing. There are also riffs
still being rooted in the design tradition of the Momofuku restaurants in
on classics, from prime rib to surf and turf – interpreted with fried chicken
New York City, Sydney, Toronto, and Washington, DC. Custom neon signs
and caviar.
greet guests on arrival to the Peach Bar, whilst the main dining room
“Our arrival in Las Vegas has been a long time coming,” says Chang,
features an industrial mix of glass, white oak, raw oiled steel, and concrete
“and we’re stoked to have landed at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas.
- elements mirrored at the group’s other locations. Artist David Choe, a
The restaurant is a fun, celebratory spot, where there’s something for
friend of Chef Momofuku, created a five-panel mural for the dining room,
everyone, from splurging to having a quiet mid-week dinner.”
representing both Chang and Choe’s love of dogs. A raised private dining room, lined with custom carpet that includes the Momofuku peach logo, overlooks the Las Vegas strip.
www.vegas.momofuku.com
IN A BITE Covers: 200 • Executive Chef: Shaun King • Interior Design: DesignAgency • Architecture: Marnell Architecture • Tableware: Rosenthal Sambonet, Kwan Ju Yo • Glassware: Ravenscroft, Zalto • Cutlery: Arthur Krupp • Barware: Cocktail Kingdom, Koriko, Korin
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9. – 13. 2. 2018
Can form and function embrace one another. Do we want diverse or diversity when we dine. Can you feel quality with a touch of your hand. Dining is the sense of companionship – a place where creativity is lived, where diversity pulsates.
Ambiente, the show. Information and tickets at ambiente.messefrankfurt.com Tel. +44 (0) 14 83 48 39 83 info@uk.messefrankfurt.com
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Morelli Hotel Viu, Milan
Design Hotels member Hotel Viu is the latest addition to Milan’s newly
well as local artisans and carpenters, who were commissioned to create
revitalised Porta Volta neighbourhood. In the bold exterior, Architects
key pieces inspired by quintessential Italian design.
Arassociati Studio sought inspiration from this urban regeneration,
Chef Giancarlo Morelli oversees the hotel’s multifaceted F&B
rendering the façade in sustainably-sourced wood, metal, and bronzed
programme, which includes a 42-cover gourmet restaurant, Morelli; an
glass, composed of undulating patterns of indentions and projections
80-cover mixology food bar, Bulk; a 14-seat chefs table, Kitchen; and a
that define each story. It provides a clear statement of intent from the
rooftop terrace with commanding views across the city.
hotel, where the same commitment to design and narrative plays out in the F&B spaces. Arassociati and Nicola Gallizia Studio were entrusted with interior design, which is defined by a tonal colour palette and contemporary
At Morelli, design is intended to play a supporting role, with a warm, ambient style that is inviting to diners but which doesn’t distract from the cuisine – itself refined and using only a few carefully selected ingredients, with an emphasis on Italian produce and classic techniques.
textures. Parquet oak wood floors contrast with light colours and bespoke fabrics, exclusively created for the hotel by Venetian textile company Rubelli. The furnishings come from furniture design studio Molteni&C, as
www.hotelviumilan.com
IN A BITE Covers: 42 (Morelli), 80 (Bulk), 14 (Kitchen) • Executive Chef: Giancarlo Morelli • Head Bartender: Mattia Pastori • Interior Design: Arassociati Studio, Nicola Gallizia Studio • Tableware: Villeroy & Boch • Glassware: Zafferano • Cutlery: Mepra • Drinks Suppliers: Pernod Ricard, Diageo, Bacardi
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Photography: Richard Waite
La Capitale Four Seasons Hotel Amman
A city built on white stone, Amman has seen meteoric growth since it
lavender, taupe and black.
was named the capital of Trans-Jordan in the early 20th century. Four
Guests are greeted at the table by custom teak wood design, mid-century
Seasons Amman, perched atop the highest of the city’s seven hills, sits
inspired lounge and dining chairs and plush sectional sofas, anchored by
in the 5th circle neighbourhood between Al Sweifiyah and the financial
teak planters filled with greenery. An extension to the restaurant, the
district of Shmeisani.
terrace encompasses a vertical herb garden featuring fresh herbs used in
Blending timeless elements with modern details, Four Seasons Amman has re-invented the traditional French brasserie, with a 230-cover restaurant, La Capitale, and adjoining bar boasting a farm-to-glass inspired serving. Designed by AvroKO, La Capitale features a southern French inspired interior that draws upon provincial ambiance, whilst original architecture
dishes by Chef de Cuisine Arthur Vonderheyden, whilst offering sweeping views of Amman. The cocktail menu showcases Jordan’s first farm-to-glass cocktails using artisanal French spirits and liqueurs, and served in glassware from Schott Zweisel. La Capitale’s twist on the classic martini uses a small batch of French gin and dry vermouth, infused with Jordanian olives and dill.
boasts neoclassical details highlighted within the custom floor mosaics of white Arabescato and Marquina marble, and upholstery in tones of
www.fourseasons.com
IN A BITE Operator: Four Seasons Hotel Amman • Owner: Hani Al Qadi & Basem Malhas • Interior Design: AvroKO • Tableware: Villeroy & Boch • Glassware: Schott Zwiesel • Cutlery: Sambonet • Menu Design: Brand Bureau • Lighting: DJ Coalition Lighting • Furniture: Goodshop • Graphic Design: Brand Bureau • Styling & Art: AvroKO • Bar Equipment, Menu Development, Liquor Selection: Proof & Co
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An Estonian Exploration
SPREAD
Wild forest red currants
A clash of old and new culinary cultures define Estonia; a nation rich in history and tradition but with innovation at its core. Aiming not just to document but also to elevate, we explore the simple beauty of core elements in Estonia’s multilayered food tapestry, with a focus on classic produce and products. To complement the purity and simplicity of the chosen objects, images are inspired by traditional still life paintings. Dramatic lighting evokes an aesthetic originating in Northern European countries, where the winter sun provides a soft light that is contrasted with dark surroundings.
The almost architectural rise and fall of food objects is inspired by the towering, fortress-like Old City of Tallinn and a modern twist on medieval aesthetics.
Moss From the Old City walls of Tallinn
Sea buckthorn jelly
Sea buckthorn powder
Estonian rye bread Wood foraged mushrooms
Cured meat
Organic pear
Dried blueberry powder
Concept: Studio AppĂŠtit Creative direction and photography: -ISM by Studio AppĂŠtit www.studioappetit.com For more information on Estonia: www.visitestonia.com
Organic apple
Forest mushroom collection
Dried Estonian herbs
Teaspoon with traditional amber inlay
Marzipan
Cured meat
Smoked fish
Estonian root vegetables
Raw honey
Almond coated triangle pastry
In juxtaposition to the clean and curated settings, we step into a raw and rural stage on this Estonian exploration: a visit to the forest, to nature, and a wilder assemblage that represents tradition in the heart of a contemporary context.
Local potato salad with green peas, cooked meat and boiled eggs
Vintage Estonian tableware private collection
A museum glass display cabinet features three exquisite traditional Estonian glasses, typically embellished and engraved with nature symbols such as wheat, leaves and florals.
Sea buckthorns
Hand cut crystal glassware
INTRODUCING T-COLLECTION... Scandinavian design is a design movement characterized by simplicity, minimalism and functionality that emerged in the five Nordic countries of Finland, Norway, Sweden, Iceland and Denmark. Scandinavian design tries to humanize by the use of natural materials such as wood, glasses, leather etc. and to democratize by the use of innovative techniques to make objects in series at reasonable prices because it believes that beautiful and functional everyday objects should also affordable. Inspired by this design idea, Tiger has launched series of products under T-Collection such as induction chafing dishes, rectangular carving station with its new heating lamps, juice dispenser and buffet display wooden trays and risers at competitive prices. Tiger proposes a whole new collection of buffet items to bring a nice touch of modernism and simplicity into your buffet scene.
www.tigerhotel.co.kr
Adv_Supper-Magazine_Trim-236x275mm_6.indd 1
07/09/2017 09:48:31
Botanist Fairmont Pacific Rim, Vancouver
Words: Lauren Ho
O
ccupying a 48-storey James Cheng-designed
includes the design, but the entire concept development
tower along prime waterfront real estate in
and strategy. “It’s important to open a restaurant that
Downtown Vancouver, the Fairmont Pacific Rim
resonates with the market,” explains Stanghetta. “ So we
is, arguably, the slickest hotel in the city - not
corral the management team, we get consultants to look at
least for its heaving lobby that has become a local hotspot to
the positioning strategy and the narrative for the restaurant
see and be seen.
and then we develop the idea from there, bringing the right
It’s hardly a surprise though, considering its owner is Westbank, a local property development company, whose
The result, which now also includes an intimate champagne
projects – spanning residential, commercial, hospitality
bar and Vancouver’s first cocktail lab, takes its cues from
and public art – have played a significant role in defining
its location: fresh, clean and wholesome, with a good
Vancouver’s skyline. Known for its progressive approach
dose of Stanghetta’s strong modernist sensibility. “It’s a
towards creating a city for the people, its line-up of
reinvention of the Pacific Northwest,” he says. As such, the
upcoming ventures includes the permanent adoption of
bar is swathed in grey, monolithic terrazzo, reminiscent – as
Unzipped Wall, the installation designed by Danish architect
Stanghetta points out – of Vancouver’s rocky, mountainous
Bjarke Ingels for London’s Serpentine Pavilion last year; and
landscape. In contrast, the restaurant, inspired by the region’s
a new curvilinear building by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma,
lush tree-filled greenery, has a horticultural bent with lots
due to open in 2020.
of florals, in muted pastel hues and an abundance of live
Its latest pursuit targets the local dining scene, with
plants. “Wherever you are in Vancouver, the horizon provides
the re-launch of the Fairmont Pacific Rim’s restaurant.
a backdrop of mountainous rock and trees,” says Stanghetta.
Aiming to draw the public in with an accessible destination,
“There’s a trend for colour-blocking at the moment, so our
Westbank has wisely tasked the king of restaurant cool, Craig
version was to create something a little more nuanced and
Stanghetta and his design studio Ste. Marie for the job. The
transitional within each space and, on a grander scale, ‘block’
man behind some of Vancouver’s most fashionable dining
the actual areas by creating this distinct binary look.”
rooms, including Kissa Tanto - a sexy Japanese-Italian
060
people in as necessary.”
The concept extends to the food, which, like the interiors,
joint that has recently been crowned Best New Restaurant
is also fresh, clean and wholesome. “It was the design of
by the country’s definitive culinary guide, Canada’s 100
the space that got me interested,” says Mexico-born chef
Best - Stanghetta has, for his first hotel project, given
Hector Laguna. “When they approached me, they said
the space the full Ste. Marie treatment, which not only
they needed food to match the interiors. The look of the
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Photography: Ema Peter
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Charred octopus Photography:Luis Valdizon
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Photography:Ema Peter
restaurant is exactly my way of seeing food, so it was an easy decision.”
brains behind the restaurant’s stylised logo, inspired by its mezzanine
Previously the sous chef at celebrity cook David Hawksworth’s
location at the top of the hotel’s lobby stairs; Laguna’s skilful plating is
restaurant in the Rosewood Hotel, this is Laguna’s first solo gig. It is
helped along by earthy dinnerware from ceramic artists Jane Herold and
clear he has embraced a similar honest and simple philosophy for his
Amber Kendrick; and a line-up of presentable staff are styled in custom-
food, using seasonal, locally sourced B.C ingredients to whip up pretty
made outfits, such as fashionable one-piece jumpsuits or voluminous
modern Canadian plates, such as the charred octopus with asparagus,
neoprene skirts, by Eli Canter of New York-based uniform company
cauliflower, kohlrabi and spicy chorizo; or delicious hand-cut tagliatelle
Lady and Butler.
with morels, mushroom ‘soil’ and salty crispy Piave cheese. The cocktails, meanwhile, are the vision of Creative Beverage Director,
What was once a staid, run-of-the-mill hotel restaurant has been transformed into a humming destination from the time the first plate
Grant Sceney, who has literally cooked up a series of nature-inspired
of smashed avocado and eggs is served in the morning, to the final
chemist-like libations from a show laboratory, that is decked out
nightcap in the evening. This is surely down to Westbank’s smart,
with state-of-the-art industrial kitchen equipment such as a rotary
progressive thinking and, as Stanghetta and Laguna both remark, the
evaporator for distilling and vacuuming, and centrifuges to separate
company’s support and trusting attitude. It’s no secret that the success
ingredients of different density. No doubt, delivered to a chorus of
of a hotel is not determined by the sales of its rooms anymore. And
‘ooohs and aaahs’, guests can expect whimsical tipples with names such
while Vancouver might have some of the best independent restaurants
as Candy Cap Magic – a vermouth, mushroom rye and spiced maple
available, up until now, the city’s hotel F&B options were lagging. Up
concoction – served in a gold-framed vitrine complete with a bed of
next, Westbank and Stanghetta join forces once again, this time for the
moss and a whiff of smoke for added drama.
overhaul of the Shangri-La Hotel’s restaurant. Watch this space.
Needless to say – and as Stanghetta frequently reiterates – it’s all about the details. Local brand identity outfit Glasfurd & Walker are the
www.fairmont.com/pacific-rim-vancouver
IN A BITE Covers: 108 dining room and garden, 18 private dining • Operator: Fairmont Hotels & Resorts • Owner: Westbank and Peterson Group • Interior Design: Ste. Maire Design • Brand Identity: Glausfurd and Walker • Executive Chef: Hector Laguna • Head Bartender: David Wolowidnyk • Creative Beverage Director: Grant Sceney • Wine Director: Jill Spoor • General manager: Shon Jones-Parry • Tableware: Golem Design, Union Wood Company, Hastings Brass Foundry, Jane Herold and Amber Kendrick • Glassware: Spiegelau • Cutlery: Robert Welch • Uniforms: Lady and Butler Collections
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A Taste of Waldorf / Jean-Georges Beverly Hills Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills
Words: Kerstin KĂźhn
T
here are few other hospitality brands in the world quite as synonymous with universally celebrated culinary creations as Waldorf Astoria. From cocktails like the Martini, Rob Roy and Tequila Sunrise, to dishes like red velvet cake, eggs benedict, Thousand Island dressing and the eponymous
Waldorf Salad, over the past 120 years the luxury hotel chain and its iconic food and beverage inventions have stood for timeless elegance and sophistication. So when Waldorf Astoria holds a contest to seek the next new cocktail and dish to enter the ranks of these renowned delicacies, the pressure is on. Add to that a judging panel made up of three-Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten and food industry heavyweights such as Padma Lakshmi - plus the backdrop of the latest jewel in the Waldorf Astoria crown of hotels - and the recipe for success may just be complete. This was the scene at the Taste of Waldorf event, hosted by the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills hotel in Los Angeles. Bringing together chefs from five Waldorf Astoria hotels around the world, teamed up with five Rising Star finalists from the coveted James Beard Foundation’s annual awards, the event formed part of a month-long celebration marking the opening of the stylish new hotel.
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Winning dish: beet-cured trout and tempura shrimp
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The task this year was no easy feat: the teams of chefs were asked
be guaranteed, their inventiveness certainly befits the launch of the
update to the time-honoured ritual. The challenge was not only to
Waldorf Astoria Hotel Beverly Hills.
expand the bar offering beyond traditional drinks and appetisers, by
A decade in the planning, the $200m hotel is designed by renowned
creating two small bites that pair perfectly with an original cocktail
French architect Pierre-Yves Rochon - whose other projects have
and mocktail, but also to incorporate innovative themes that mirror the
included the Four Seasons Hotel in Florence, The Peninsula Shanghai,
sophisticated and modern style of each Waldorf Astoria property.
and The Savoy in London - effortlessly marries contemporary luxury
Innovative small plates incorporated delicacies such as foie gras and
with old Hollywood glamour. Despite its size – the 12-storey hotel
lobster, with dishes ranging from seared scallops topped with Beluga
features 119 guest rooms and 51 suites – the Waldorf Astoria Beverly
caviar; to Kobe beef carpaccio with shaved white Alba truffle. Meanwhile
Hills holds a unique sense of intimacy, with cosy public areas offering
Waldorf Astoria bartenders assisted their chefs by creating inventive
sumptuous respite from the hustle of nearby Santa Monica and
drinks to match. There was the Supermoon cocktail, featuring squid
Wilshire Boulevards.
ink, Paniolo whiskey, pineapple, lemon and vanilla; the Sun King, with
The culinary side of the hotel too, reflects a modern interpretation of
passion fruit snow, finger lime caviar, lemon confit and vodka; and the
Waldorf Astoria history. Helmed by Vongerichten, the food and beverage
Prommer de Parfum mocktail, featuring gala apple, bergamot essence
programme not only marks the celebrity, three-Michelin-starred chef’s
and cedar tea.
inaugural partnership with Waldorf Astoria but also his first venture on
The winning combinations were created by Michael Zachman, executive chef at the Waldorf Astoria Park City in Utah, who had teamed
the west coast of the USA. His offering at the hotel is threefold: there is the bar, comprising
up with James Beard finalist Alex Bois. Their beet-cured trout on sweet
a lively yet intimate cocktail lounge, located adjacent to the main,
potato blini with cucumber, dill and smoked trout roe, matched with Rye
signature restaurant Jean-Georges Beverly Hills; and the Rooftop
& Shine Prosecco with hibiscus and roasted rice; and spicy Togarashi
restaurant and bar on the 12th floor.
prawn with lime and ginger Yuzu pickled pear, paired with a ginger Yuzu
066
dishes among the list of famous Waldorf Astoria creations may not
to turn happy hour into the ‘Fifth Hour: Bar + Bites’, a contemporary
The latter’s sweeping views of the surrounding hills and the Golden
Asian Pear Mojito mocktail will now be featured on menus at 26 Waldorf
Triangle, including the world-famous Rodeo Drive, are matched by
Astoria properties worldwide. And while an eternal legacy of these new
an accessible menu that delivers informal yet elevated small plates.
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Avocado carpaccio pizza
Inspired by the flavours of Latin America and Southeast Asia, mixed
elevated casual fare focused on fresh, local ingredients. Thus he has
with California cuisine and a touch of New York flair, it’s already a hot
chosen not to impress with haute cuisine and fancy table theatrics but
spot for locals and serves ubiquitous Los Angeles crowd pleasers like fish
to present an understandable, simplified though elegant, savoury menu
tacos, tuna tartar and beef tenderloin with crispy potatoes, chimichurri
created as much as possible from the rich local bounty - such as Santa
and lime. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, a limited part of the
Barbara sea urchin, Monterey calamari, and seasonal, organic farmers
menu is also available to hotel guests choosing to dine poolside – the
market produce.
only pool menu in the city curated by a Michelin-starred chef. But it is downstairs in the main restaurant that Vongerichten
With the help of executive chef Steve Benjamin (from L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Las Vegas), Vongerichten’s Beverly Hills menu aims
really dazzles his Beverly Hills diners. Somewhat rare in Los Angeles’
to please all palates. While a touch of luxury remains – there are
restaurant scene, the palatial dining room - appointed with luxurious
‘Caviar Creations’ and a nine-course tasting menu – the overall focus
white leather, gold metallic and oak touches, combined with cathedral-
is simplicity, with dishes ranging from sushi to pizza and angel hair
high ceilings - sets the stage for the chef’s cuisine.
pasta with tomato sauce, as well as an entire section devoted to ‘simply
Based on his immense worldwide experience, Vongerichten has created what might be described as a ‘Best of Jean-Georges’ menu,
cooked’ pieces of protein, with not a carbohydrate in sight. Vongerichten’s west coast debut not only makes the new Waldorf
selecting and picking from his huge repertoire of recipes and what he
Astoria hotel complete but also reflects his longstanding world expertise.
considers his universal hits, including toasted egg yolk with caviar and
He delivers serenity, skill and, without fanfare, a cuisine created with
black truffle pizza.
quality, timelessness and sophistication, just as Waldorf Astoria has
A savvy restaurateur, whose empire spans four continents,
done for the past 120 years.
Vongerichten understands his local Los Angeles crowd, where the white tablecloth fine dining seen in New York or Paris is less of a draw than
www.waldorfastoriabeverlyhills.com
IN A BITE Operator: Hilton Worldwide, Waldorf Astoria • Owner: Oasis West Realty, Alagem Capital Group • Interior Design: Pierre Yves-Rochon Inc. • Executive Chef: Steve Benjamin • Tableware: Bernardaud • Glassware: Luigi Bormioli • Cutlery: Cristofle
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Bluefin Tuna Tataki with ponzu and wasabi salsa
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Nobu Shoreditch Nobu Hotel Shoreditch, London
Words: Harry McKinley
L
ooking at Nobu Shoreditch from the outside,
the brand in Europe, but across town in West London
one might think that a small cruise ship had run
two standalone restaurants have proved enduringly
aground – its affluent passengers apparently
popular, despite being less than 10 minutes walk
unfazed and spilling out to revel in the
from each other. By those standards, Shoreditch, in
increasingly polished delights of the neighbourhood.
the east, might as well be a different country, and it
Great steel beams jut backwards from the building,
remains to be seen if the area’s markedly dissimilar
and overhanging floor slabs form a tiered effect.
- but increasingly less so - audience will take to the
Combined, they evoke the streamlined image of a
brand with quite the same enthusiasm. However,
vessel that could at some point raise anchor and
other recent openings in the neighbourhood,
plough on down Willow Street. It’s the work of Ron
including The Curtain, The Ned and Devonshire Club,
Arad and Ben Adams Architects; the former known for
show that Shoreditch has cast off the last vestiges
flagrant creativity, the latter for clean functionality.
of its shabby-but-cool past and is now firmly on the
The interplay been those two forces is evidenced in
mainstream visitor trail. Even locals are now more
the final result, which Arad has publicly described as a
likely to work in banking than the creative industries.
‘relaxed version’ of his original scheme.
The arrival of Nobu in some ways highlights
Chef Nobu Matsuhisa founded his eponymous
Shoreditch’s ascension to peak gentrification – with
hospitality group with actor Robert De Niro in 1994,
the price of a meal for two at Nobu easily running
and whilst the focus was originally on standalone
into three figures.
restaurants, the opening of the first Nobu Hotel
Malibu-based Studio PCH helmed the design of
in Las Vegas (2013) marked a new branch of the
the restaurant, having worked on numerous other
business and an opportunity for Matsuhisa to deliver
Nobu venues internationally. Located in the hotel’s
an entire Nobu lifestyle that stretched beyond the
basement, the 340m2 space seats 240, including
dinner plate. Still, of course, F&B plays a dominant
an 18-seat chefs table and 10-seat sushi bar. Like
role and few, if any, Nobu hotel guests would book to
the rest of the hotel, the South American influences
stay without sampling the restaurant.
are relegated to the cuisine and the vision is one of
Nobu Hotel Shoreditch marked the first opening for
muted minimalism. Sleek wood and bronze detailing
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Photography: Claire Menary
are definitively Japanese in feel – with intricate joinery reflecting a
comfort food they can expect from dishes grounded in Japanese cuisine
sense of the Far East. More London, there are hints of Shoreditch’s
– portion sizes aside. The distinctive combinations are its signature and,
industrial energy in the exposed concrete walls and pillars. But these are
thanks to the brand’s growing ubiquity, difficult for others to emulate
just hints, and on the whole the restaurant is as manicured as a bonsai.
without being noticeably contrived.
Guests arrive via a grand floating staircase, from which they can
The hotel worked with The Drinks Club on its alcohol programme,
observe the orderly rows of diners below. Five-metre tall glass doors
securing rare Japanese whiskies, including a Hibiki 30-year-old. In
to the outside terrace allow light to flood into what could otherwise
total the bar carries over 700 different spirits – all high-end and some
have been a claustrophobic dining room, expansive ceiling height
exceptionally sought after. Sakes are from Hokusetsu, and the supplier,
notwithstanding. At the core of the space is the bar, realised in a
JFC, assisted in the training of staff to bring them up to speed on this
trapezoidal shape that adds an additional layer of dynamism to a design
most Japanese of beverages. Elsewhere, Boutique Brands helped the
that is elsewhere focused, almost exclusively, on straight lines and
hotel in the creation of its own liquors for cocktails, whilst also selecting
soothing uniformity. Whilst other Nobus have played with eccentricity,
brands for the back bar from its niche portfolio, including Sette Vie
and even extravagance, in their interiors – think Nobu Doha at the city’s
Amaretto. On the wine front, Bibendum Wine supplied the hotel’s
Four Seasons – London has clearly dictated a sharper approach; the
diverse collection which includes a bottle of Screaming Eagle 1998.
virile modern architecture of the Square Mile within touching distance. Chef Matsuhisa made his name, of course, through his distinctive
For Nobu Hotels the future means expansion and, whilst London was the brand’s first European outpost, a recent opening in Ibiza has put the
fusion of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine, with other South American
flag firmly in the sand. To come, a slate of openings from Riyadh and
influences thrown into the mix. At Nobu Shoreditch the menu doesn’t
Marbella, to Toronto and Barcelona. And whilst the brand may be known
stray too far from the established. The Black Cod Butter Lettuce, a
for its very particular concept, it is also demonstrating that it’s capable
much-vaunted global favourite, retains its hallowed position, alongside
of enough diversity to sustain a future beyond the Black Cod.
the likes of dainty tacos with salmon and avocado, tempura shrimp and a searingly spicy Beef Toban Yaki. Nobu delivers to guests the closest to
www.nobuhotelshoreditch.com
IN A BITE Covers: 240 • Operator: Nobu Hospitality • Head Sushi Chef: Noriyoshi Teruya • Tableware: Nobu Matsuhisa Original • Uniforms: Ted Baker • Drinks Suppliers: Boutique Brands, JFC, Bibendum
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absolute l ifestyle
BESPOKE HIGH TEA STAND
INFO@ALHKG.COM HONG KONG | AMSTERDAM | DUBAI HEAD OFFICE 7/F UNIT C, TUNG KIN FACTORY BUILDING 196-198 TSAT TSZ MUI ROAD QUARRY BAY HONG KONG
La Terazza Hotel Eden, Rome
Words: Renate Ruge
T
here’s an orange glow as the Roman sun
scientifically tested nutritional dishes to feed
and culture. The restoration of Hotel Eden
spreads a warm tangerine hue across
the body’s physiological needs.
maintains the property’s Roman essence
the terracotta rooftops that bask in its glory. Expansive panoramic vistas wrap
whilst offering guests a luxury experience
conceivable dish: Sous vide, sauce extraction
enriched by contemporary styling and state-
around Hotel Eden Rome, sweeping from Villa
units, ovens of every kind - including
of-the-art facilities.”
Borghese down the Spanish steps skirting
patisserie and a Morello Forni pizza oven - a
around the top of the Pantheon and out to the
blast chiller, an ice cream machine, pressure
architects Bruno Moinard and Claire Betaille
mighty Colosseum. Vatican City feels but a
cooker and induction plates. All state-of-the-
is tasteful at every turn. When pressed on
stone’s throw away and the dome-shaped roof
art. It’s nirvana for cooks.
the size of the new kitchen, General Manager
of St Peter’s crowns this spectacular cityscape.
White hatted chefs move like a well-oiled
The hotel’s design, devised by French
Luca Virgilio concedes that Ciervo had to make
This is no ordinary ‘room with a view’, this
machine under Ciervo’s scrupulous planning
a very good case for his expansion, thereby
is a kitchen with unrivalled views and, unlike
and direction. He likens the team’s efficiency
losing rooms in the process. Room numbers
its luxury hotel contemporaries around the
to that of a Ferrari: Italian, sleek, power-
were cut from 121 to 98 – also to allow more
world, found on the seventh floor, not buried
driven and stylish, which is all very much
space in each – and 33 of them are now suites.
away in the basement.
reflective of the new incarnation of Hotel Eden
It’s a wonder the resident chef has managed
Decorated Dorchester chef Alain Ducasse
Rome itself. The elegant grand dame, built in
flew in for the reopening and was suitably
to snag this incredible culinary space. “My
1889 perches in a superb setting, on the hill
impressed, the 600-strong party with 10,000
chefs need light and space to cook,” Michelin-
where Julius Caesar lived, surrounded by the
canapés going out without a hitch. “He walks
starred Executive Chef, Fabio Ciervo assures.
verdant gardens of Ludovisi, Borghese, and
the talk,” adds Virgilio of Ciervo.
“The view really is a treasure.”
Malta villas.
If he weren’t a world-class chef, who trained
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In the kitchen there’s a station for every
Hotel Eden has played holiday home to
When the hotel closed for business between November 2015 and April 2017 the core team
at l’Ecole Lenôtre before a stellar 22-year
heads of state, royalty and showbusiness
were retained. Ciervo spent his sabbatical
international career working for Adriano
icons like Isabella Rossellini, Martin Scorsese
learning how to make fine dining healthier,
Cavagnini at Grosvenor House Hotel; Michel
and Ingrid Bergman. Bought by Dorchester
studying a Masters in nutrition, now revealed
Roux at the Waterside Inn; and learning from
Collection in 2013, it has undergone an
in the new menus of the hotel’s signature
gastronomic alchemist Heston Blumenthal
extensive restoration using architects and
rooftop restaurants, Il Giardino Restaurant and
and celebrity chefs like New York’s Thomas
interior designers who have worked on sister
Bar, and La Terrazza..
Keller, Fabio Ciervo could have been a sporting
properties: Hôtel Plaza Athénée in Paris and
sensation. Training since age 14 he draws on
The Dorchester in London. Chief Executive
peaceful contrast with the rich opulence of the
the discipline of an elite athlete every day.
Officer Christopher Cowdray says, “Our hotels
entrance, completed in a more contemporary
Sport was the inspiration in his search for
strongly reflect each destination’s character
idiom by design studio Jouin Manku. Pretty
The rooftop dining spaces make for a
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Crispy red mullet
Fresh pasta with crab extract
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Spahetti with pecorino
leaves made of glass climb up peaceful pale
art and innovation to create perfect harmony
green walls in the ‘garden of Eden’, and a small
between exceptional food and a healthy
open-air terrace with tiny olive trees atop each
lifestyle.” The philosophy is to explore the
cooked for 72 hours, is sumptuous, with a rich
table. Here al fresco apperativo and bellinis
world of ‘arte culinaria’, combining ingredients
jus poured from a jug and served with crunchy
mixed in large jugs are served. Little wonder
in unexpected ways. “My philosophy is built
sticks of green and white asparagus - cooked
legendary filmmaker Federico Fellini famously
on five pillars: innovation, flavour, science,
for 40 seconds exactly.
chose this suntrap spot for his interviews.
wellbeing and beauty.”
La Terazza is all about the future of modern
Freshly juiced ‘shots’ refresh the palate and
found that ‘wow’.” Presentation is meticulous. The braised beef,
For dessert ‘yoghurt and organic milk’ (flash frozen in the blast chiller) is a healthy take on
dining – cutting edge and dramatic. The dining
while the dishes may look and sound simple,
ice cream and accompanied by a Frascati sparkle
room has a simple, elegant style, providing
flavours are profound. The ‘extraction of mixed
(Frascati Cannelino, Villa Simone, 2014).
a hushed backdrop as the food takes centre
herbs’ starter distills the essence of a wild-
stage. Tableware too is understated: glasses are
meadow salad in a test tube.
Riedel, cutlery from Ercuis and with Saladini steak knives.
The signature dish, Cacio e Pepe is a neat
As many pavement trattorias in Rome jostle for business, with menus serving variations of ‘nonna’s recipes’, Ciervo trailblazes ahead,
knot of pasta, lightly tossed in pecorino,
reimaging the classics: “There’s no time to
topped with Madagascan wild black pepper and
waste, we need to embrace innovation and
place setting. Napkins are soft Italian linen by
flavoured with rose buds. To elevate the floral
move forward to keep our customers happy
Pedersoli and diners have a choice, white or
aromas, steam spills out of a small glass pot
by nourishing them.” The tasting menu at La
wheat-coloured, depending on which better
and a heady delicate scent of roses emanates.
Terrazza is called ‘Rome My Way’ – apt for a
A single white porcelain apple sits at each
suits their outfit. Service is seamless. The sommelier has been
“I wanted to give this classic Roman dish a new twist,” says Ciervo. “I spent about three
with the hotel for 20 years and dishes are
months testing different versions of Cacio e
pioneering - as Ciervo promises, “inspired by
Pepe with a different spice every day until I
chef carving his own path in a city and hotel steeped in tradition. www.dorchestercollection.com
IN A BITE Covers: 44 • Owner: Dorchester Collection • Interior Design: Jouin Manku • Architecture: Bruno Moinard, Claire Bétaille of 4BI and Associates Executive Chef: Fabio Ciervo • Restaurant Manager: Paolo De Cicco • F&B Manager: Daniele Colombo • Linens: Pedersoli • Uniforms: Maurel • Glassware: Riedel Cutlery: Ercuis, Saladini • Tea and Coffee Pottery: Richard Ginori
074
www.pordamsa.com @pordamsadesignforchefs Pordamsa @pordamsa
Pavilion 9 D08
La Dame de Pic Four Seasons Hotel London at Ten Trinity Square
Words: Harry McKinley
T
en Trinity Square is one of those buildings
the restaurant’s dedicated off-street door - the
that sums up the longstanding prosperity
grandeur level is high and a palpable sense of
of the British capital. An arresting Beaux
expectation created. The restaurant was designed
Arts behemoth designed by Edwin Cooper,
by Bruno Moinard of Paris-based architects 4BI
it was formerly the Port of London Authority
and, for the most part, the building’s original
headquarters and, in 1946, hosted the UN General
features continue to take centre stage and have
Assembly. Now a Four Seasons hotel, it stares
been allowed to shine. Great pillars stretching up to
across to citizenM Tower of London – the two
the particularly high ceilings feature ornate carved
personalities of London squaring off against each
woodwork and bevelled mirrors, whilst sleek wide
other; one the epitome of youthful, accessible
windows create the impression of a bright and
modernity, the other a stronghold of refinement
open space. The dining room also benefits from
and exclusivity. With its Corinthian columns and
natural wood flooring, balanced with the warm
looming statue of Father Thames, the entrance to
leather used on curved banquettes. In the centre of
Four Seasons Ten Trinity is as grand as they come.
the room hangs a large chandelier that nods to La
The hotel plays host to La Dame de Pic, the
the restaurant’s name. A 14-seat private dining
star chef Anne-Sophie Pic. Pic began her cooking
room sits alongside the main restaurant.
career at 23 and, with no formal training, is only
As the company line goes, Michelin does
the fourth female chef to be awarded three stars,
not award stars based on any element bar the
for her restaurant Maison Pic in the southeast
food, and it is in the cuisine that La Dame de
of France. In its 2018 guide, Michelin has also
Pic expresses itself most fluently. Pic’s food is
recognised La Dame de Pic with a star – an
accomplished, presented with the kind of artful
accolade bestowed just eight months after opening.
flair that befits a venue of La Dame de Pic’s calibre.
The restaurant is one of two accessed via
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Dame de Pique, the French card game that inspired
first UK restaurant from French three-Michelin-
Guests familiar with Pic’s restaurants will be
the cavernous Rotunda Bar and Lounge, itself
pleased to see some of her classics on the menu,
topped by an impressive dome lit in ambient
including her signature dish, berlingots. More
hues. For guests who have ascended through the
famous to the French as a hard candy made from
hotel entrance and the lobby – as opposed to
fruit syrup, Pic has taken the signature pyramid
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Left: Sencha Vacherin, Right: Brittany Pigeon
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Brixham Dover Sole
shape – berlingot translating as sachet - and created pasta parcels filled with a lightly smoked Pélardon cheese. They are accompanied by
as modern international fare with a French accent. With La Dame de Pic, Four Seasons at Ten Trinity is going all in.
seasonal wild mushrooms and a tonka bean and voatsiperifery pepper
Setting aside Rotunda which is, for all intents and purposes, a lobby
foam. It’s a variation developed specially for the London restaurant.
bar and lounge - and unlikely to set local hearts aflutter in a city with a
Elsewhere Pic mixes classic British ingredients with less expected
highly developed and competitive hotel bar scene – it is one of just two
elements. Scottish langoustine is paired with a bouillon infused with pine
destination restaurants at the hotel. Whilst that’s a more than adequate
tree buds and geranium, and Ibaïama pork is marinated in Scottish dark
number, for a property of Four Season Ten Trinity’s scale and repute,
ale, cauliflower, juniper and Meyer lemon. For red meat and game, diners
it does mean that both must deliver experiences that are not just good,
are provided with a Katana knife to unsheathe at the table in an almost
even excellent. They must be the kinds of dining destinations that get
ritualistic experience – a civilised take on the primal desire to chow
people talking, encourage gourmands to want to know what the fuss is
down on a glistening block of Welsh lamb or a corpulent Brittany pigeon.
about and, perhaps most importantly, make everyone else believe that
Desserts are handled with equal skill. The White Millefeuille - featuring
a dinner at either is not a wasted opportunity to try one of London’s
Tahitian vanilla cream, jasmine jelly and voatsiperifery pepper foam –
many other fine dining spots. The announcement that La Dame de Pic
is presented as an architectural white cube, a vision of prim perfection
has been awarded its first Michelin star goes some way to indicating the
waiting to be demolished by an eager spoon.
restaurant’s early success and is likely to inspire as yet uncertain diners
Whilst the menu is grounded in the traditions and techniques of
to pass under Father Thames
French cooking, Pic has an altogether more worldly approach, drawing on multiple global influences. The result is dishes that could be described
www.ladamedepiclondon.com
IN A BITE Covers: 78 • Executive Chef: Anne-Sophie Pic • Chef de Cuisine: Luca Piscazzi • Head Bartender: Michal Maziarz • Interior Design: 4BI & Associates Architecture: Aukett Swanke • Owner: Reignwood Group • Operator: Four Seasons Hotel and Resorts • Tableware: Jars Ceramistes, Raynaud • Glassware: Baccarat, Riedel
078
SIPPING
“Prestige is one thing, but when you win awards the expectation goes through the roof. People expect greatness and will be the first to tell you if it doesn’t meet that standard.” Dead Rabbit’s Sean Muldoon on the double-edged sword of accolades.
COCKTAILS
Pineapple Old Fashioned Pulitzer Bar, Pulitzer Amsterdam
Served in the ambient surroundings of the bar at Pulitzer Amsterdam, the Pineapple Old Fashioned is perched on a bed of straw to add an additional layer of aroma and texture. Similar to the reinvented Gin & Tonic featured on the menu, this house speciality seeks to explore the olfactory element of true classic drinks. Served alongside signature drinks including the Marguerite, predecessor of the Martini; the Sherry Cobbler, the Mojito of the 1850s; and the Knickerbocker, interpreted as the first Tiki drink, the Pulitzer Bar menu aims to recapture history and put a contemporary spin on old favourites and forgotten standards. Nestled into the Nine Streets district of Amsterdam, the drinks menu was developed by cocktail connoisseur Andrew Nicholls. Fourteen cocktails follow one consistent recipe: one part of the past, one part of the present, and one part of revolutionary technique. Innovative preparations and interactive elements also add an unexpected dimension. True to the concept, location and extensive drinks menu, the interior of Pulitzer’s Bar captures the accessible elegance of old school hotel bars in a monumental Amsterdam building, with comfortable armchairs set around a fireplace and an Art Deco style bar. www.pulitzersbar.nl
000
COCKTAILS
Seven Years in Tibet Thief Bar, The Thief, Oslo
Influenced by movies of the last century, Thief Bar’s Movie
Also appearing on the menu are a selection of beverages
List menu celebrates productions including The Matrix,
housed in unique glasses including Inception, a bitter
Inception and Casablanca through 12 unique cocktails.
mixture of vodka, dry vermouth and sherry served in a glass
Seven Years in Tibet, served in a traditional Tibetan singing
that untraditionally floats in mid-air; and Oceans Twelve, a
bowl, features Lagavulin B, Frangelico, chocolate, Tibetan
mixture comprising Remy Martin Vsop, angostura bitters and
tea and citrus. The cocktail is presented alongside other
tobacco grappa, presented in a Faberge-style egg.
Thief Bar signatures including Dr. Jekyll & Mr Hyde, which
Thief Bar, situated on Oslo’s waterfront, is inspired by the
marries Hendricks with Becherovka, vanilla infused sherry
history of world metropolises, and draws on craftsmanship
blend, cherry vinegar reduction and champagne; and Matrix,
and the highest quality ingredients.
a Bacardi based drink that combines sherry, white chocolate and pistachio.
www.thethief.com
WINE MASTER 6 Functions, 130 mm, Swiss Made
MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE | ESTABLISHED 1884
SAK_Level2_0_9701_63_242x281_NEU__AD1.indd 1
14.09.17 10:23
COCKTAILS
Madame Butterfly Po, The Warehouse Hotel, Singapore
Crafted into three distinct eras, Po’s cocktail menu is inspired
Laphroaig mist, passion fruit, grenadine and mint; as well as
by the past of the warehouse building and the surrounding
Singapore Sazerac, created with raisin bourbon, pandan bitters,
neighbourhood, from the frenetic height of the spice trade and the
cognac, and absinthe, with spiced Demerara to add sweetness.
darker underbelly of godown culture, to the giddy heyday of disco.
Alcohol infusions and essences are all made in-house,
The three themed categories - Spice Trade, Godown and The
reflecting the rich and nuanced history of The Warehouse Hotel.
Warehouse Disco - each infuse historical mixology from the 19th
The Warehouse Disco, Po’s late 20th century-inspired selection,
and 20th century. Madame Butterfly featured in Godown as a mid
offers flirty and fun concoctions influenced by the hotel’s heady
20th century serve, combines Roselle tequila, watermelon shrub,
days of aural indulgence. Fruity notes and flora are explored,
salt, and pepper to create a complex, full-bodied cocktail that
while gin-based serve Barbarella experiments with egg white,
celebrates the city’s past forbidden distilleries.
earl grey, elderflower and rhubarb.
Spice Trade, reflecting Singapore’s roots as an epicentre of commerce, stars High Tea, a bitter mixture of chamomile whisky,
www.thewarehousehotel.com
Jack McGarry, Jillian Vose (Bar Manager), Sean Muldoon
SIPPING
A Dead Rabbit in Claridge’s Belfast-born bartenders Sean Muldoon and Jack McGarry are the creative forces behind New York’s The Dead Rabbit Grocery and Grog, a bar frequently touted as the world’s best. Bringing their Manhattan venue to Claridge’s for a limited run pop-up, we pulled up a seat to discuss the unexpected collaboration, global success and fairy tales of New York.
How did you come to enter the drinks business?
but there was really nowhere else to go in Belfast.
what we did. They also ended up spending a lot of
A guest that had been coming into the bar for two
time around the corner at The Duke of York pub,
SEAN MULDOON: I grew up with the Troubles in
years [Conor Allen, an Irish businessman from
which is where Sean and I would drink after a
Northern Ireland and so really learnt bartending
Galway working in New York’s financial sector]
shift. So when it came to Dead Rabbit, we wanted
as a means to get out and travel the world.
saw the lack of prospects for us at that time,
to bring together pub culture with what we loved
and he sympathised. He offered to invest in us
doing, which was working in cocktail bars.
JACK MCGARRY: I was constantly asking my
if we were happy to move to New York, thinking
We started looking at New York in the 18th
mother and father for money and they had had
that if we were able to do the same thing there
century and how there was this influx of Irish
enough of it, so they got me a part time position
that we did in Belfast, we’d get so much more
immigrants because of the famine. They came
with my cousin, who ran a pub in West Belfast.
opportunity.
through South Street Seaport, which is a couple
Eventually I met Sean and moved to work in The
of blocks away from where our bar sits now, on
Merchant Hotel, which coincided with taking a
How did you ultimately come to open Dead
Water Street. It was then known as one of the
year out before going to university. I fell in love
Rabbit and how did you formulate the concept?
most violent streets on the continent, but at
with the cocktail world and the rest is history.
the same time you had the splendour of lower JM: When Conor approached us about opening
Broadway, which is where all of the luxury
SM: We both worked at The Merchant from 2006
the bar he told us to build something that will
Manhattan hotels were. So that idea of pubs and
until 2010. During that time the cocktail bar was
stand the test of time. We had a programme
cocktail bars sitting side by side played into what
very successful and won numerous awards. It
in The Merchant called The Connoisseurs Club
we wanted to do. The guy that unified it was John
was the first bar outside of New York to be voted
and were able to invite the crème de la crème of
Morrissey, who is a mascot of the bar. He was
World’s Best Cocktail Bar at Tales of the Cocktail,
the cocktail industry to Belfast and show them
the one time leader of the Dead Rabbit gang
087
sipping
in the 1850s, and he lived both those lifestyles
throw it at various moving targets and see what
anymore. Theatrics and the fancy garnish of
throughout different courses of his life.
sticks. Sean and I don’t operate that way.
drinks never took off there and probably never
How would you describe the ethos of the bar?
SM: We give our lives to it. It’s part of our heart
will. It’s not what they want. They want a drink and they want it quick.
and soul. We didn’t get into it to make money, JM: For me it’s bringing the Irish pub into the
which was secondary. We wanted to create a bar
How did the collaboration with Claridge’s come
21st Century. I also think it’s an Irish bar with
that we believed in and were devoted to.
about?
How important are the accolades?
SM: I met the bar manager here, Denis [Broci], at
attitude. SM: Dead Rabbit is forward thinking and it’s not
Tales of the Cocktail two years ago. He suggested
bonded by history. We do cocktails really well
SM: I’m in this because the industry is exciting for
that we do something with Dead Rabbit at
and that’s what we bring to an Irish pub that
me. When I started there were no opportunities
Claridge’s. I didn’t think anything would come of
makes it different. Typically when you go to an
and bartending was just a job. Now we’ve won
it but I got an email 10 months ago from someone
Irish bar in New York it’s a sports bar. So for New
a lot of awards with Dead Rabbit and if we have
at Pernod Ricard UK and they reminded me of
Yorkers it’s different and for Irish people coming
an idea it’s more bankable, because we’ve proven
that conversation, saying that they were keen
to New York it’s a sense of home.
that our ideas work.
to push forward with it, if we were. It’s a unique
Do you see a shift in the bar scene today back
JM: Without Tales of the Cocktail we would not
Claridge’s would even consider doing something
in Belfast?
be in America, but the one that really makes a
like this. It’s very gutsy. Claridge’s is not known
difference to business is The World’s 50 Best
for mixology culture, it’s much more elegant and
JM: There’s now total accessibility, total freedom
Bars. We’re doing an extra $25,000 a week that
refined. It wouldn’t have been as interesting if
and there’s diversification. But for me the
we weren’t doing before we placed first.
we’d done it somewhere else.
understand cocktails and, even though we’ve left
SM: Prestige is one thing, but when you win that
How has Claridge’s influenced the iteration of
The Merchant, it’s probably still the best cocktail
award the expectation goes through the roof.
Dead Rabbit we see here?
bar in the city.
People expect greatness and will be the first to
opportunity. I’m blown away by the fact that
problem with Belfast is that operators don’t fully
When you go about developing a cocktail
tell you if it doesn’t meet that standard. It’s ups
JM: I would say from experiential point of view,
the game and it’s high pressure.
this is definitely what we do at Dead Rabbit. The
programme, how much consideration do you
guys here have hit this out of the ballpark. They
have to give to the local market and how does
Consumers now know more about mixology
wanted the team here to unlearn everything
that influence your approach?
than ever before. Does that make it more
they’d learnt, because our bar is not formal at
challenging for you?
all and is all about personality.
we had two years in New York before it opened.
JM: It makes it exciting because we’re constantly
SM: It’s incredible to think that the whole
We had this highfalutin idea that we would move
trying to present something that is compelling,
transformation took just 12 hours, overnight.
over and have the bar opened in two months,
unique and that interests people. We use the
but those two years before were some of the
menu as a vehicle to keep our business fresh. I’m
What are some of the differences between
toughest of our lives. We had to buy second hand
always saying that the ceiling today is the floor
operating within a hotel and operating as a
clothes, eat once a day and our family was on
tomorrow, because you have to keep innovating
standalone?
the other side of the world. I’m delighted that
and improving.
JM: The beauty of opening Dead Rabbit was that
we had those two years, though. Sean worked
JM: I think there’s an agility in operating
in the neighbourhood that the bar is now in and
Do you think that some bartenders get wrapped
independently. Going back to our time at The
so we knew the area very well. When we opened
up in the ‘mixology bubble’?
Merchant, the lack of agility was part of the
the bar we had a good understanding of what
reason we left. We were becoming renegade,
the neighbourhood was looking for. Dead Rabbit
JM: I call it death by speakeasy. There were so
because we looked at it as a cocktail bar in a
opened ready to rock and roll.
many speakeasies that bartenders started to open
hotel, as opposed to a hotel cocktail bar.
more casual bars, but I almost find them more What do you think created its initial success
pretentious. It seems to be that the bartender
Would you say the guest here is similar or have
and what did you engineer into the concept that
will only give you a great experience if you know
you had to reinterpret the bar for a London
has given it legs in the long-term?
them. The by-product is that New York cocktail
audience?
bars are not pushing as hard as London cocktail JM: Both of us are extremely aware of what the
bars anymore. I think London is ahead of New
SM: The hotel guest is not the same customer,
brand is and what we’re trying to do. We wanted
York in that sense.
but the people who come to the pop-up are more
to open a bar that would change the landscape. There are people with a lot of money who tend to
088
like our guest in New York. I’d guarantee that the SM: New Yorkers don’t care about cocktails
hotel guest that has been coming here forever
Dead Rabbit at Claridge’s
prefers it the old way and will be happy to see it
How has the perception of hotel bars shifted?
back to normal once this project has ended. The
JM: It would be good to see five-star hotels catering to different experiences instead of
expectation of a guest like that is very high. Dead
JM: When The Merchant first opened it was
Rabbit is a pub, not a fine hotel.
foreboding to a lot of people. We had 15 steps to get up to our cocktail bar and it might as well have
having varying degrees of the same. Who do you admire in the industry?
You mentioned that London is pulling ahead of
been Mount Everest. So I think that shift really
New York when it comes to the cocktail scene,
started with The Merchant. We did everything
JM: People like Dale DeGroff and Gary Regan
but do you also think the bar scene is becoming
differently and started a trend in hotel bars. I
have been very helpful for us and made us feel
more globalised?
think it was very influential for Artesian, for
welcome in New York. In terms of competitions,
example. I’m not saying that from an egotistical
without doubt Alex [Kratena] and Simone
JM: It was globalisation that revolutionised
point of view, but I do think it changed the game
[Caporale]. I miss not having them around in a
New York. Towards the end of the 2000s and
and percolated into other things – whether it’s
bar environment.
early 2010s you had people like Naren Young,
projects like this at Claridge’s or bars like The
Sam Ross and Micky McIlroy – as well as Sean
NoMad in New York.
What’s next for you both?
and with different perspectives. In London,
What can hotels learn from standalones in
JM: We’re opening the outside space of
Eastern Europeans and Italians coming in
terms of how they operate their bars?
BlackTail NYC, which is going to be a significant
and I – coming in, from different countries
has tremendously improved the bartending
investment of between $300,000 and $400,000.
community. These guys are coming to London
SM: I think they’ve learnt a lot from standalones.
That will be in April or May 2018. We are also
for a few years to learn and to gain new ideas that
You can go to The Savoy with jeans now. A lot of
working on a book, a follow up to Dead Rabbit,
they can take back and put towards their own
the cool hotel bars now have younger bartenders
and also looking for another venue in New
bars. It’s much more diversified here because of
with a younger perspective and I think that’s
York. So we’re busy, which is always good.
the ease of coming to London. I don’t know how
very important. There’s less stiffness.
much that’s going to change with Brexit.
www.claridges.co.uk
089
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The Future of the Bar is Now Words: Angus Winchester
For many, hotel bars are the new face of creative mixology, but what makes them successful cradles of innovation and how can they continue to move forward in an increasingly competitive landscape?
Y
ou will very rarely hear me complain about my work. I wake up every day not thinking that I have to do this, but that I get to do this. So when I was asked if I fancied looking at hotel bars through the lens of innovation I was overjoyed. Visions of digging
out menus from Rockwell, The Trafalgar Hotel’s bourbon-only bar; and Steam, Hilton London Paddington’s gin specialist venue, both from 2001; as well as speaking to globally acknowledged innovators like Alex Kratena and Kevin Diedrich, had me thrilled. Instead what I got was an open can of worms through a looking glass at the end of a rabbit hole. What is truly innovative these days and how desirable is innovation? What was, and is, the role of the hotel bar? Is exploring innovation ultimately debating economic theory, from a macro to micro level? Have we overfetishized creativity and are we pandering to Millenials with smartphones? Have we become the 1%? Good grief I love my job, but sometimes it makes my head hurt, and I don’t mean a hangover. Hotels and bars have a long, important and intertwined history. Firstly, it is said that many classic bar units resemble hotel reception desks as they served a dual purpose in the early days. Secondly, hotels of the early
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Recipe Frida, Cueve Siete, UNICO 20 87 Riviera Maya 1.5 oz. Montelobos Mezcal 1 oz. Ancho Reyes liquor 1 oz. lime juice 1 oz. orange juice 1 oz. grapefruit juice 1 oz in-house artisanal hibiscus syrup Hibiscus salt and ancho chili Pour the mezcal, Ancho Reyes and fruit juices over ice and mix with bar spoon in a tumbler glass, rimmed with hibiscus salt and garnished with a torched chili.
cocktail era
I asked the Twitterverse and the responses were surprising and
were solely
ultimately lumped into several areas: tools and technology -
to house and
from rotovaps, sous-vides and the Porthole Infuser to cocktails
host travellers,
on draft, social media and music streaming; ingredients such
which links to the
as St-Germain, genever and Reisetbauer Eau de Vie; techniques
opinion that cocktail
such as forced carbonation and barrel aged cocktails; and, of
culture was initially
course, innovative cocktails that use previously unheard of
disseminated along train
ingredients or combinations of flavours, as well as increased
lines in the USA - then ports
theatricality and presentation. Interestingly, one could argue
and subsequently airports. Finally,
that none of these are driven by hotel bars or standalones, but
only larger and grander hotels could afford
mainly by the kitchen world or food technology.
the interior design, glassware, entertainment and even the ice
It’s often where you get a fusion of these forces - with
programme necessary for a lively pre-Prohibition cocktail bar.
substantial financial backing - that it all starts to get interesting.
Yet the nature and grandeur of the hotel - and by extension
Bars like Artesian, Connaught Bar and American Bar at The
the bar - has been transformed, as the nature of travel itself has
Savoy in London, along with Manhattan Bar in Singapore.
changed in the last 60 years. While some hotel bars still kept
Charles H. Bar in Seoul and The NoMad Bar in New York, are
the embers of the grand cocktail bar burning, so the business
all absolutely among the most innovative bars in the world.
traveller, budget travel and the spread of multinational chains
These destinations have become vast revenue generators for
with identikit designs degraded many hotel bars to sad or
their respective hotels. They are also public relations gold with
non-existent offerings. Simply, hotels gave away their bar
their success frequently measured by the number of Instagram
business to independents and focused elsewhere. But oddly,
posts they accrue. They are multi award-winning palaces of
what people talk about when they discuss important cocktail
true hospitality, backed by big corporate budgets that many
trends, or even innovations, started in hotels: ice programmes
mixologists can only dream of.
with blocks being chopped down; homemade products, from
On a side note, while the above innovations may have helped
bitters to infusions and house blends; a more formal service
the bar world, one big shift did not. Unions in America are
style, often featuring a be-whiskered and bow-tie sporting
held by some to have destroyed the quality cocktail in hotels
male; serious not frivolous drinks; and proper garnishing. In
and, to this day, many legendary hotels have poor beverage
short, all of the staples of the modern speakeasy that many
programmes and lackadaisical service.
claim are innovations. As bar guru Dale DeGroff once said, “All that was old is new again.”
This led me down another twisting path and to the debate about whether a hotel bar is meant to serve and cater to
It led me to wonder what innovations have occurred in the bar
the guest or to the bottom line of the hotel and constantly
industry in the so-called ‘second Golden Age of the Cocktail’? So
changing fashions. Hotels used to be places that had character
studioverde.it
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Recipe Angus Knows Nacarat, Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth 1 oz. Tanqueray Rangpur 1.5 oz. Bols Yogurt 0.5 oz. sudachi juice 0.25 oz. agave syrup (1:1) 2 inches fresh lemongrass, muddled Freshly grated kaffir lime zest 3 dashes lemongrass saline solution Shake with half cube, half crushed ice. Double strain and serve. Garnish with fresh marigold flowers.
and were truly welcoming to both travellers and regulars. As hotels have increasingly started looking at external revenue and media-friendly bar concepts, so the humble hotel guest may find themselves in a Willy Wonka-esque mixological paradise, when all they wanted was a nice quiet G&T. While we, as an industry, fetishize creativity and innovation, we must never forget that we are in the experience business and not just the cocktail business. But hotels aren’t resting. I recently spent time with the team at Nacarat in Montreal, within Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth. Much time and money has been spent upgrading the cocktail and bar programme and the newly opened Nacarat ticks all of the boxes of an innovative concept and space. It features three ‘stations’ and with each making one type of drink, it feels more like a kitchen than a bar. And due to strict liquor laws, they have had to innovate to create what other bars have as standard, from ingredients to techniques like barrel ageing. It is proof that necessity is the mother of invention. Hotels are also remembering that they must be representative of their locations and are building on that. A good example is UNICO 20 87 Riviera Maya. Situated south of Playa del Carmen in Mexico, it is a one-of-a-kind adults-only hotel for the sophisticated traveller. It features culturally inspired signature experiences and impromptu
Artesian at The Langham set the bar for much of this
pop-up programming, including mezcal tastings
and was suitably recognised until the departure of its celebrated team.
As hotels have increasingly started looking at external revenue and media-friendly bar concepts, so the humble hotel guest may find themselves in a Willy Wonka-esque mixological paradise.
But all strands of discussion aside, the question remains: are hotels cradles of innovation or fervent imitators? Certainly one reads far more often about amazing innovations in hotel bars - though perhaps this is due to the power of their PR teams - and hotels bars are regaining their status as centres of excellence. However, really it’s kitchens that are creating the
and cocktail lessons by the executive mixologist,
most interesting ideas for bars of all types to play
custom beer gardens and Mexican wine-tastings. The
with. Hotels at the higher end are certainly upping
on-property mixologists are tasked with creating
their game, but this is not trickling down to the mass
unique handmade libations that echo the voice of
market at any great pace.
the surrounding native culture. Travellers can depart
In evolution it is not the biggest or the strongest
from the ordinary, with a journey through the tastes
that survive, but the entity most able to change. While
of Mexico past and present.
some hotels have the financial wherewithal to invest
Elsewhere, London has been the epicenter of the
in a way that smaller outlets only dream of, for the
second ‘Golden Age of the Cocktail’ with bars like
most part they have been surviving and not thriving
Connaught Bar - and its signature Martini Trolley
for much of the last 25 years. The most positive shift is
- and Number One Aldwych with its virtual reality
that they are now nurturing the young talent coming
cocktails. American Bar at The Savoy continues to
from the independent sector, as well as spending on
innovate with its new menu aiming to ‘capture the
consultants aplenty – people who understand the
spirit of a nation’ by honing in on Britain’s folklore,
unique nuances of the bar scene - to put hotel bars
history and landscape as its inspiration. Of course,
back on the map for any serious travelling tippler.
Creating Hospitality
Artesano Authentic. Ingenious.You.
Villeroy & Boch S.à .r.l. Hotel & Restaurant 330, rue de Rollingergrund 2441 Luxembourg Tel.: + (352) 46 82 11 ¡ Fax: + (352) 46 90 22 E-mail: info.hr@villeroy-boch.com www.villeroy-boch.com/hotel
VLH 16443_Supper_Mag_236x275mm_plus3.indd 1
05.04.16 15:29
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New Waves in Wine While not popularly associated with change, the wine industry has been striding forward in increasingly creative ways. From urban boutiques to sprawling vineyard properties, we explore why hotels are proving a home for innovation.
Words: Nina Caplan
S
tories have been told about wine since humans first figured out how to make it: the ancient Egyptians had a wine god called Osiris; the Greek Oenotropae were three young women able to change anything they wished into wine, a gift bestowed on them
by Greece’s own wine god, Dionysus; and the Roman author Pliny, in his extensive writings on wine, mentions a great vintage that is, by his time, over 200 years old but still improves all other wines when mixed with them. The stories have evolved and changed, become less mythical and more factual, but they still help us to understand and choose what to drink, and as the number of wines has grown and the consumer has become almost overwhelmed with choice, it is often stories that make the difference.
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Some of those stories revolve around provenance:
getting the customer interested but, says McFaul,
the terroir (a concept, incidentally, first mentioned
“talking about these things in an unpretentious
by Pliny) and the winemaker, the history and the
way, that encourages people to learn and
Château, the natural or biodynamic methods of
understand more, is probably the biggest innovation
production. But in our fast-moving world, there is
for an industry which has traditionally been slow
always a thirst for something new. Wine, of course,
to react to changing markets.” And it’s not just
is not the category best known for innovation, or
talking. At Jackalope’s cellar-door restaurant, Rare
not innovations that can offer a talking point for
Hare, every wine is available by the glass, even
bartenders and sommeliers, or pique the interest of
the very limited production O’Leary Block Pinot
F&B managers. Despite the rise of the New World
Noir. In the fine dining restaurant, meanwhile,
and the ever-changing landscape of wine retail,
the overarching principle is to stick to wines from
the general perception of wine is timeless and
vineyards of 11 hectares or less – so, the same
traditional – ironic, really, for a seasonal product
vineyard size as Willow Creek. This is a great way
that is literally new each year. Still, producers have
to showcase other small producers who are making
always innovated, and some are doing so today with
waves, as well as providing a context and point of
great flair.
comparison for the vineyard that guests see from
The arguments about clean, modernist labelling
their bedroom windows.
Wine, of course, is not the category best known for innovation, or not innovations that can offer a talking point for bartenders and sommeliers (to say nothing of lighter, more environmentally
As wine tourism becomes ever more popular,
friendly bottles) have been going for a while;
hotels in those regions are finding ways to make the
however, a lot of important innovation in the wine
concept of terroir clearer and more approachable.
world is not obvious initially, remarks Geraldine
This is easier if you have a vineyard of your own
McFaul, Winemaker and General Manager of Willow
with which to entice guests, of course. At Domaine
Creek Vineyard, which is the on-site vineyard of the
de Verchant, a Relais & Châteaux hotel near
new boutique Jackalope Hotel on the Mornington
Montpellier, there is a vineyard in the grounds, a
Peninsula in Victoria, Australia. “For the past 15
former winery that now serves as a wedding venue
years, the Pinot Noir growers of Victoria have met
and a tasting room that was once a large vat full of
annually to freely exchange ideas and advice to
fermenting grape juice. Here, the property’s wines
improve our wines and understand our sites better.
are reserved for guests staying in one of the 26
Across the board, the use of new oak has reduced,
rooms or eating in the Verchant restaurant. There
there is much more judicious use of whole-bunch
are tastings intended to introduce those guests to
fermentation in Pinot Noir, particularly, but also
the best wines of Languedoc, helping to reverse
Shiraz. Skin-contact in white varieties to produce
the perception of the region as high on quantity
wines of intriguing texture and aroma is certainly
and low on quality. And, as with Jackalope, wine-
gaining traction as is the use of large-format oak,
lovers confused by terroir can lie by a pool within
concrete, amphorae.”
splashing-distance of the hotel’s vines: always a
With technical innovations like these, the trick is
pleasant way to improve one’s understanding.
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Townhouse hotels can’t offer vineyards on-site but some can give a sniff of them. The beautiful Cour des
enthusiastically copied since 1971. A restless local wine industry that is constantly
Loges hotel, in a former monastery in central Lyon,
experimenting and improving is a boon, says Davies:
is part of the Sibuet Group, which also owns Domaine
“It makes it possible to serve exclusively South
de Marie winery in the Luberon in Provence. So
African wines, except for a couple of Champagnes.
guests can sit on the restaurant terrace in the city -
Guests can try wines they can’t access at home.”
sometimes known as the gateway to the South - and
And they can even be instrumental in helping choose
actually taste the south: particularly, the herbaceous
the next wines to make it onto the list: Davies holds
rosé for which Provence is famous. At tiny luxury
regular Monday tastings for guests, and wines that
hotel Villa Spalletti Trivelli in Rome, which also owns
get a particularly enthusiastic response are listed.
the Pomario winery, the vineyard’s distance from
Both Uve Mira Mountain Vineyards and Waterkloof
the sun loungers (which are on the hotel roof) have
were chosen this way.
A restless local wine industry that is constantly experimenting and improving is a boon. been turned to its advantage: as well as the bottle in
Other experiments include place. Samantha O’Keefe
the mini bar or on the menu, there is a day trip with
has planted vines inland and uphill from Hermanus
lunch available to the vineyard in Umbria. These are
on South Africa’s south-western coast, and her
examples of innovation in the tourism sphere rather
Lismore Chardonnay has been received with wild
than the winery – but of course, they only work if the
enthusiasm; in Australia, Jim Barry Wines has
wine on offer is good.
planted Assyrtiko, the grape from the Greek island
At the Vineyard Hotel in Cape Town, General
of Santorini, in the Clare Valley; while in the Rhône,
Manager Roy Davies finds that forming
a group of winemakers have carefully studied Pliny
partnerships with the most innovative winemakers
and realised that a neglected hill next door to some
in the region works for both the hotel and the
of the world’s most esteemed vineyards has as much
producers themselves. If his hotel has a tiny
potential and arguably, a better story. Above the
vineyard on the property, it is because Mike
Côte Rôtie, just north of the city of Vienne on the
Ratcliffe of Warwick Wines suggested planting one,
other side of the river, Les Vins de Seyssuel have
and now it is a multi-faceted partnership, with a
planted vines, and the resulting wines are already
row each planted by Ratcliffe, Waterford Estate (the
greatly sought-after despite having, as yet, no
first in the country to organise wine and chocolate
official designation - although Yves Cuilleron is
pairings and also take visitors on wine safaris
working on it.
and walks – all innovations useful to hotel guests
As innovation stories go, it’s hard to beat the
wanting to further their acquaintance with the
revival of a 2,000-year-old vineyard, even if gaps in
wines), venerable Cape Constantia, Meerlust and
our knowledge mean that that is stretching the truth
Simonsig, whose superb sparkling wines were the
a little bit. But that’s all right. Most progress requires
first in the country – an innovation, along with the
an imaginative leap, as Pliny would have - and may
designation Méthode Cap Classique, that has been
have - been the first to acknowledge.
What’s Brewing?
Words: Caroline Morrish
Coffee is big business. But with independent coffee shops seemingly leading the charge when it comes to invention and innovation, what are hotels doing to break new grounds?
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T
here’s something interesting percolating in the coffee sector. To understand what’s changing, you need only to look at the menu of your favourite small-scale coffee shop. Chances are it will read less like a hot drinks selection and more like a mash-up of a wine list and
a chemistry handbook, with origin and tasting notes for different roasts given alongside a choice of the expected (espresso and filter) and less expected (V60, nitro-cold brew or Chemex anyone?) brewing techniques. But far from being the niche work of just a few passionate coffee geeks, this new approach is part of what Allegra World Coffee Portal has termed the ‘Fifth Wave’ of coffee evolution (‘Project Café 2017’ report). This coffee movement is a step on from, and development of, the previous phases of the industry, notably the ‘Third Wave’ of the mid2000s, when coffee was promoted as an artisanal food rather than simply a commodity, and which saw a boom in new craft roasters sourcing direct from farms; and the ‘Fourth Wave’ which began around five years ago and has seen the science of coffee production and brewing come to the fore. Both of these waves have specialty coffee at their heart, focusing on the highest-grade beans using the Cup of Excellence scale, which are sourced for their flavour and unique characteristics in an ethical and traceable way. Allegra describes the Fifth Wave as being characterised by “hyper-professionalism, operational excellence, investment in technology and training, and people development programmes. [This is] driven by passionate leaders and delivers authentic and principled concepts that deeply connect with savvy millennial audiences.” The big chains are taking note, with the likes of Costa opening its first specialty concept store, Costa Finer in June 2016. And so, too, are hotel operators, with venues upping their coffee creds by collaborating with artisan roasters in order to reinvigorate their offerings. Recently we have seen the likes of The Langham work with Union and Difference Coffee
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“People have started to expect more than just a cup of coffee and see it now as a moment to savour, a journey or experience.”
Company, and Claridge’s and The Dorchester team with
now as a moment to savour, a journey or experience. Soho
London roasters Workshop and Alchemy respectively. But one
House Group observed how the specialty industry affected
operator that has taken things a step further is Soho House.
the consumer and the market and knew they wanted to
In employing a dedicated Head of Coffee Development, Daniel
develop this side of their business.” As such a dedicated team
Thompson, the group has completely changed its approach
of specialist coffee professionals has been installed under
to coffee across its estate. Thompson is a man who knows his
Thompson at Soho House Group in the UK and elsewhere
beans, having previously come from coffee mecca and home
in its international operations. “Our mission was to bring
of the Specialty Coffee Association (SCA) Training Academy,
traceable, ethical, specialty coffee to our members and
Prufrock in East London. As well as bringing his wealth of
customers on a global scale. In doing so we have completely
experience to Soho House’s venues, he has also spearheaded
changed the coffee culture at Soho House. Our aspirations
the launch of the group’s own three-year Coffee Development
were high, but since starting the programme we have seen
Programme, which started in 2014.
a full transformation with passionate staff that have a new-
Thompson explains, “Historically restaurants and hotels
found respect for, and perspective on, coffee.”
have had a pretty poor approach to coffee, but as the specialty
This has been achieved in stages, completely reworking the
coffee sector has grown up, so has its customers. People have
coffee offer by partnering with independent roasters specific
started to expect more than just a cup of coffee and see it
to each region of the business - such as Origin Coffee Roasters in the UK - before creating bespoke blends for each venue based on the tastes of the local demographic. A special training programme has been developed for staff, which includes SCA content as well as bespoke modules developed for the business. “The La Marzocco coffee machines and bar set-up has also been standardised with the same specifications in order to streamline the training and enable staff to work on any bar in any site,” explains Thompson. Another hotel rethinking its approach to coffee and its inhouse café, as well as the concept of the ‘hotel’ as a whole, is the newly launched Pilgrm in Paddington’s Norfolk Square, London. The brainchild of Jason Catifeoglou (Zetter Group) and Andreas and Steph Thrasyvoulou (MyHotels Group), the venture is described as a ‘reinterpretation’ of the traditional hotel. It eschews the regular hotel reception in favour of a coffee house lobby area that welcomes hotel guests and locals alike. Catifeoglou says that coffee is an integral part of the overall hotel concept: “The coffee is of equal importance to any other element of the hotel. We consider it an intrinsic part of a brand experience and a statement of quality and most of all, taste. Customers are more discerning than ever and have become more aware of quality through greater insight into the sourcing and blending process.” The team worked with partners Cru to develop their own house blend, served as both an espresso and filter coffee. This is also available in the other F&B areas of the hotel, including the shared pantries that act as breakout and refreshment spots for the hotel’s rooms. Of course, it’s not just the boutique operators embracing
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“Coffee should be as much of an experience as any other aspect of someone’s stay.”
that has a delicate flavour. Meanwhile Chemex looks like something out of a laboratory, because it is. Developed by German inventor Dr Peter Schlumbohm in the 1940s, the conical coffee flask has a cult status the specialty coffee movement. As part of its late
and iconic design, and gives a smooth coffee with a
2016 launch in Edinburgh, Principal Hotels opened
pure flavour, thanks to its thicker filter. Aeropress
its modern café concept Burr & Co, that serves both
is a manual gadget that uses the full immersion
hotel guests and daytime customers and is set to open
method, with steeped coffee being pushed through
its second site as part of the new Principal London
a filter, giving a less pure but more full-bodied drink.
Hotel, Russell Square. While the Four Seasons Hotel
At the chilled end of the market, cold brew coffee is
at Ten Trinity Square brought in coffee specialists
big news. A recent Mintel report had cold brew sales
Difference Coffee Company to develop its house
jumping 580% from 2011 to 2016 in the US. Indeed
blend. Amir Gehl, founder of Difference Coffee
Starbucks introduced its own version in early 2017.
Company, says, “Lately, there has been a movement
The process for cold brew involves steeping the
in hotels to migrate completely to specialty coffee as
coffee in cold water for several hours, whilst never
their regular offering. When the Four Seasons Hotel
heating, and then serving out of a tap. Nitro-cold
at Ten Trinity Square opened we were tasked with
brew is a version of this same drink but infused with
finding a specialty grade coffee for the restaurant’s
nitrogen for a super creamy, naturally sweet drink
‘house coffee’. We did a whole series of tastings
with a smooth foam top that looks not dissimilar to
which included their director of wine, the hotel’s
a pint of Guinness.
F&B director, and chef Anne Sophie Pic, before the particular estate was chosen.”
As customers grow increasingly used to seeing these new ways of brewing, plus the likes of cold
But what of the cutting-edge brewing methods
brew coffee offering high margins and great potential
we have come to see from these new coffee spaces?
for profit, it is time more hotel businesses jump on
Some of them may sound faddish at times, but the
the Fifth Wave revolution in coffee. As Soho House’s
techniques are all firmly cemented in the science of
Thompson concludes, “Coffee should be as much of
good taste. Each method offers a slightly different end
an experience as any other aspect of someone’s stay.
result and tasting coffee. Pour over techniques include
No one wants to leave with a bad taste in their mouth,
Kalita wave filter, which is a simple drip filter that can
literally or metaphorically. And if operators focus on
be positioned over a jug or cup with a flat bottom,
training and artisanal products, who says hotel coffee
and the pure conical shape of the V60 individual drip
shouldn’t be as good, if not better than the best coffee
filter, both of which give a clean, light bodied coffee
shops in town?”
Breathtaking carpets engineered to last
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Hospitality – Leisure – Gaming – Marine – Residential
Case study adverts - June 2017.indd 4
www.brintons.net
01/08/2017 12:54
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Forest Gin Why success was a walk in the woods for this small-batch brand. Words: Harry McKinley
W
e’re living in the age of Gin. The category has
“The insane moment came when Harvey Nichols ordered
exploded in recent years and its growth sees
batch number one, before we’d even put it on sale,” he
little sign of slowing. Whilst the ‘big players’
recalls. “From there, it began appearing at the bars of several
are undoubtedly benefiting from the boom,
Michelin-starred restaurants, and Virgin Trains made it the
it is primarily driven by an interest in craft and small-batch brands – each with their own distinct story and USP. But
gin of choice for its first-class lounges.” By 2016, the Bonds had quit their day jobs and Forest Gin
through the noise of niche new launches and limited editions,
would go on to become the only gin in history to be awarded
some labels are finding particularly strong footing, driven
two separate Double-Gold medals at the San Francisco World
by a keen sense of values, a commitment to quality and
Spirit Awards. It necessitated a move of production from
bolstered by an air of authenticity – in the true sense of the
their kitchen into a dedicated distillery in Macclesfield Forest.
word. Forest Gin, originating in the north of England, is an
Here, where sheep roam and ingredients ripe for foraging
example of all.
grow in abundance, the Bond family are watching their hobby
Karl Bond, the founder, doesn’t claim to be an expert
grow into a well-regarded business, as people world-over fall in love with their product. “We still pick many of the ingredients fresh from the forest
“We still pick many of the ingredients fresh from the forest and we are still doing everything by hand”
and we are still doing everything by hand,” Karl explains. “This is a family business, using natural, high-quality ingredients. If this restricts our production capability (Forest Gin is produced in batches of just 85) or puts our costs higher than other brands, then we are happy enough with that. So long as people are enjoying what we make, we’ll be happy. A lot of distilleries can pump out up to 4000 litres in a single
on the drinks industry. He started out home distilling with his wife in 2013, creating vodka, nettle wine and gin
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run. Mass production on this scale seems simply alien to us.” What makes Forest Gin so distinctive is the complexity
that he describes as “pretty awful”. Slowly but surely he
of flavour - layers of robust moss and deep, smokey earth
began to refine their gin recipe, ultimately ending up with
striking the palette only to be cut through with a subtle
something that was good, if not great. Friends and family
plume of winter berries, both sweet and tart. Then there’s the
began requesting bottles and a plan formulated to sell at the
spice, a low burning fire, smooth and fragrant with bark and
farmers market, or perhaps the local pub. They would never
juniper. It is, as the name suggests, a walk in the woods on a
get the chance.
damp day, of which there are plenty in Macclesfield Forrest.
Part of the beauty of Forest Gin is not just the gin itself, but in how much attention has been dedicated to its presentation. It’s a testament to the boutique nature of the brand. Based close to the historic home of pottery in England and where many potteries still operate, Bond had always intended to create something in ceramics. Today, each eightsided bottle is produced by Wade Ceramics in Staffordshire Porcelain; weighty, tactile vessels that speak to quality. “We also chose to work with an amazing papercut artist called Suzy Taylor for the design. She cut the distinctive weasel pattern with a scalpel from a single sheet of black paper,” he says, elaborating on the distinctive bottle. “The detail is incredible. We still have it on the wall in the office. This design is glazed into the porcelain by Wade, which we then finish with a hand written batch number on each one.” Not wanting to rest on their laurels, a new expression sees the Bonds collaborating with tea brand Quinteassentially. “The tea designer at Quinteassential produces an amazing Imperial Earl Grey tea. It contains oolong tea and fresh bergamot, and the team there share many of our values,” Karl explains. “We’ve been steeping the tea with our gin at home and when showcasing it to customers, it made complete sense for us to bottle it up and release it as our first collaboration.” The result is a bergamot rich version, that elevates the smokiness of the original, whilst showcasing an understated bitterness balanced with the ripeness of the berries. Bond doesn’t know what is next for this family business. He continues to be in awe of its success. But as playful as ever, he’s open to experimentation. “I really want to lay down some barrels and age up some whisky. We have a cool, damp climate in the Peak District, and amazing soft water. A delivery of old sherry casks has just arrived so, who knows, perhaps in a few years we’ll be having the first taste.” www.forestgin.com For enquiries: sales@forestgin.com
DRINKS
S+ARCK Beer
Philippe Starck and Brasserie d’Olt Created in collaboration with Sébastien Blaquière, founder of Brasserie d’Olt, Philippe Starck has produced a unique beer, inventing a diagonal creative process with precise dosages and composition to translate his creativity into product. Inspired by nature, the golden and certified organic beer resonates with the terroir of the Aubrac plateau. The beer is produced artisanally, with raw materials used in its composition, including malts from organic farming, hops and water from the Boraldes of the Aubrac representing a respect for the local environment and traditions. With its delicate and smooth foam, the S+ARCK lager beer is characterized by a pleasant bitterness and offers a surprising composition of a single variety of organic spring barley, three types of hops with fruity aromas - including citrus, pineapple and exotic fruits - and subtle softwood notes. Produced without additives, colourings or preservatives, the Indian pale ale is neither filtered nor pasteurized, giving more rise to the ABV beer and allowing the culture medium to balance itself naturally, guaranteeing a good preservation over time. Also created by Starck, the bottle features a minimal design and is produced locally by a 200 year-old working glass factory in Albi. Philippe Starck comments: “S+ARCK beer is an original creation offering a universal language whose flavour comes from elsewhere, born from the honesty and the tradition of the Aubrac.” www.starck.com
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DRINKS
One Gin One
British ethical brand, One, has expanded its drinks portfolio with the launch of a craft gin to help fund water and sanitation projects across the globe. One Gin’s unique flavour, distilled from 10 botanicals, provides a refreshing twist on the traditional British gin. Master Distiller Sarah Thompson, uses nine global botanicals plus locally foraged British sage when distilling. To produce the uniquely smooth taste, the gin is distilled in an alembic copper still and filtered seven times. Handcrafterd at Blackdown Distillery in Sussex, each bottle is numbered and signed by Thompson, ready for distribution. Expert drinks consultant, Joseph Wood, from Liquor to Lips, has also developed a range of unique cocktails designed to perfectly complement One Gin. Duncan Goose, founder of One, comments: “With the UK gin market making its biggest comeback since Hogarth’s times, it was a natural step for us to broaden our drinks portfolio into this exciting new area, helping to drive our donation power and make a difference to the 663 million people worldwide who don’t have access to clean water. The evolution of One Gin has been a fantastic experience. Through the help of experts in the industry such as Sarah Thompson our award-winning Master Distiller, we have developed a unique British craft gin, distilled in Sussex, but inspired by the world. So why not choose a gin that makes a difference and funds life-changing water projects in some of the world’s poorest communities?” www.onedifference.org
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“People have started to expect more than just a cup of coffee and see it now as a moment to savour a journey or experience.” Daniel Thompson, Head of Coffee Development, Soho House Group, on the importance of good produce.
xxx Fire Dinner at Noa, Tallinn Photography: Aron Urb
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SAUCE 11th September 2017 Tartu, Estonia
Words: Anna Sulan Masing and Harry McKinley
E
stonia is a country of contrasts: there’s an
dinners and cocktail hours to simple moments in the
abundance of forests filled with tall, straight
day for connections to be made.
trees, whilst the nation’s terrain is predominantly
The one-day SAUCE symposium was held at the
flat. The bright summers are the antitheses of
Estonian National Museum in Tartu, Estonia’s second
the deep, snow filled winters. In between are beautiful
city, and split into two sections: food and ingredients,
springs and autumns that spill forth produce to fill the
and hospitality and service.
kitchens of home cooks and world-class chefs. Steeped in traditions with ancient roots, Estonia is
Food and Ingredients
a land of storytelling and storytellers. Through food
The morning opened with food journalist Mattias
and ingredients, Estonians are able to tell the story of
Kroon and Mother of Sauce Pauliina Pirkola introducing
who they are, and through unique produce we begin
Elizabeth Haigh, one of the youngest female chefs to
to understand the culture of this northern nation,
have been awarded a Michelin star, whilst at Pidgin
where chefs become creative narrators through their
in London in 2016. Her keynote focused on the idea
interpretation of its natural bounty.
of smashing stereotypes. To develop a progressive and forward thinking future the message was clear, we
SAUCE Forum 2017
must support those that are re-thinking the way the
SAUCE Forum, in its third year, is a platform for those in
industry can work and that equality and diversity lead
the culinary world to gather and exchange knowledge.
to greater originality.
The symposium consists of panel discussions and
A key area of focus was sustainability, which was
keynote speakers from those leading the global
explored through the lens of a variety of disciplines.
discussion around food and hospitality, and this year
Tzruya Calvão Chebach and Amit Ashkenazy, founders
the focus was firmly on the horizon, with the theme
of consultancy firm Sustainability Foresight, discussed
‘how to serve the future’.
pathways for chefs and restaurants to take, with
At the heart of this gathering is the idea that from
an emphasis on sustainable purchasing and how
discussion comes creativity and that knowledge sharing
restaurants can look at supply chains to develop
is how the industry will move forward. Because of this,
business models.
each SAUCE Forum also curates multiple events - from
The strength of the discussions lay in the diversity
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Sauce Forum 2017 Photography: Aron Urb
116
of speakers: experts in their fields from all over Europe. A
Hospitality and Service
dynamic panel with chefs Mehmet Gürs, Neil Rankin and Tekuna
The day’s second half – co-hosted by SAUCE’s Heleri Rande
Gachechiladze, with input from academic Dr. Marc Stierand
and Supper Editor Harry McKinley – moved from concepts to
and restaurateur Enrico Vignoli, tackled several issues. Firstly,
a greater focus on business and how – from food and design to
through looking back to ancient and traditional methods we can
staffing - different aspects can work together to create a dynamic
be inspired to develop techniques and ways of working that will
future in hospitality.
be kinder to our future. Secondly, that ultimately restaurants
With an eye once more on sustainability, ION Hotels’ Sigurlaug
are places for people to gather and enjoy themselves through
Sverrisdóttir talked about understanding your business within
meaningful experiences and that working towards creating ‘fun
its environment. Her hotels are set in the beautiful and unique
spaces’ can lead to better discussions around what we serve. Dr.
landscape of Iceland - responding to, and respecting, this is what
Marc Stierand spoke with great positivity, saying that the future
helped her develop a successful business. She also touched upon
of food is falling in love: “If we love our produce we will cherish
the importance of building a brand story that entices guests,
the way it is sourced, cooked and served.”
saying, “I realized quickly that I wasn’t selling a hotel, I was
SIDES
Põhjaka Manor. Photography: Stina Kase
selling a destination and the narrative that went with it.” Kempinski’s Kai Schukowski spoke on the issue of staffing,
guests indulged in the cooking of Leandro Carreira who used purely Estonian ingredients at the final Celebration Dinner.
bestowing the importance of giving hospitality employees a clear path of progression, a sense of opportunity and why training can
Throughout the three days of SAUCE activities – from Tallinn
be key to retention.
to Tartu - the emphasis on connectivity was prevalent. The key
Bob Puccini, founder of Puccini Group, echoed the morning’s
takeway was that conversations need to happen, be supported,
points about how restaurants are spaces for enjoyment. By going
and given space to develop: We cannot have chef creativity
to a “good restaurant” guests are “making a positive choice to
without the art of service; we cannot have a successful business
feel good.” He spoke about the magic of industry and why, in
and groundbreaking design without guest engagement and
hospitality, guests are indulging in the luxury of time.
passionate staff; and that cross-disciplinary discussions are vital
Final speaker, Ido Garini of Studio Appétit, roused the audience
to moving forward in the food and hospitality industries.
with a simple question: can I have your attention? And went on to delve into the notion of captivating food experiences, before
www.sauceforum.com / www.visitestonia.com
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SIDES
The Hotel Show 18th – 20th September 2017 Dubai
H
aving established itself as a long-standing and comprehensive
The three-day event attracted thousands of hospitality industry
hospitality trade show in the Middle East and Africa, The Hotel
professionals, with seven show sectors and multiple installations placed
Show returned for its 18th year at Dubai World Trade Centre, Dubai,
throughout eight halls.
in September 2017.
Innovative products in the show included those by SkyRiver, a brand
Welcoming global exhibitors and top-tier suppliers from 40 countries, the
introduced by Dubai SME. As a technology set to transform the hospitality
exhibition formed a core part of industry mega-event, Dubai International
industry in the region, the product allows humidity in the air to be
Hospitality Week. It featured an expanded line-up of the flagship Dubai
converted into water, producing up to 10,000 litres of pure water per day.
edition and aimed to cater to every aspect of guest experience, with new installations focusing on elements within the F&B sector.
Tackling the key strategic opportunities and challenges shaping the region, the Middle East Hospitality Leadership Programme also became
In attendance were representatives from global hotel groups such as
a central feature to the show, with GMs and owners from all levels of
Marriott International, Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts, and Fairmont
hospitality operators sitting alongside major developers, asset managers,
Hotels and Resorts; with exhibitions from the likes of Perfetto Trading
online travel sites and other influential players in the industry.
Company, 1765 Gemini, Everstyle Trading and Artecasa. “As the industry changes and grows, so must we; and we have. The Hotel Show is showcasing an all-new brand identity, creating a sleek platform
Further, speakers from global hotel brands discussed a range of topics including: F&B strategy, building genuine brand identity, market positioning, online influencers and women in leadership.
on which to network in the most efficient way possible,” says Ray Tinston, Portfolio Director at Dmg Events.
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www.thehotelshow.com
Ambiente 9th – 13th February 2018 Frankfurt
A
mbiente will return in February next year, bringing manufacturers, planners, investors and consultants from across the F&B industry together at Festhalle Frankfurt. Showcasing a range of Horeca product lines - set to fuel
a sustainable increase in guests in gastronomy, hotels and catering - next year’s event is set to welcome 136,000 trade visitors and 4,400 international exhibitors.
buyers discuss innovative catering concepts. Further, the Living area highlights the ultimate in forward-looking design. The international product range extends from interior design, avant-garde furnishings, home accessories and items in all styles, including decorations for both indoor and outdoor spaces. Thomas Kastl, Dining Manager at Ambiente, emphasises the need to keep pushing forward: “Ensuring that continuous change becomes part
With hospitality professionals highlighting their core and supplementary
of one’s own DNA is not rocket science,” he says. “All you need to know is
product assortments for the coming year, the fair features banquet utensils
how to network with the right market players, who will help impress your
and small furnishings, with the product range covering all price points and
guests at a totally new level.”
sectors – from lifestyle to premium.
Numerous events focusing on diverse industry themes make
Ambiente welcomes back the Dining, Giving, and Living areas,
Ambiente a central platform for contract business and the Horeca
showcasing a compelling diversity of ideas, designs and inspiring
segment, bringing sourcing, business partners and concepts together
highlights. The Dining area will comprise innovative products for the
in one location.
modern kitchen, alongside household appliances and equipment. The area is also a major meeting place for the Horeca sector, where specialist
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www.ambiente.messefrankfurt.com
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To The Table MEA 14th – 16th November 2017 Muscat
O
ffering a programme of one-to-one meetings between
the W brand distinctive, whilst embracing a new generation of design. Breg
senior buyers and suppliers, insightful seminars and curated
will join the stage to discuss how Waring’s approach translates to restaurant
networking opportunities, To The Table MEA will this year be
operations, delving into the relationship between operator and designer to
held at Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort, Oman. It marks the
determine how to achieve a desired outcome that stays true to the brand.
10th edition globally from the To The Table brand.
Duncan Fraser-Smith will also host an interactive session tackling the
In the seminar strand, three of the most senior figures from leading
topic of new technology in F&B marketing with Sarah Hawilo, CEO of
hospitality companies AccorHotels, Marriott International and IHG
serVme, and Georgie Woollams, founder of Katch International, whilst a
converge in debates highlighting major industry challenges and exploring
‘top operators’ panel discussion will feature Nahai, Heksch and Giles.
how hospitality brands are finding solutions to continue their growth plans across the MEA region.
At the core of the event, To The Table continues to provide an important platform for buyers and suppliers to engage. “The setup of the event is
Other speakers confirmed for the event represent both commercial and
very useful as it allows you to spend dedicated time with suppliers of your
creative dimensions of the market, including Patrick Waring, Partner and
interest. Something you don’t really do during conferences,” says Rolf Jan
Principal Designer at Silverfox Studios; Stefan Breg, Director of Food &
van Zeijl, Regional Director of F&B, Arabian Peninsula, Saudi Arabia and
Beverage EMEA, Starwood Legacy Hotels by Marriott International; Heleri
Turkey, Hilton Worldwide.
Rande, Consulting Editor at Supper Magazine; Amir Nabai, CEO of Global
The 2017 forum will conclude with a restaurant tour and chef demonstration
Food & Beverage at Accor Hotels; Guy Heksch, Vice President Culinary
by the executive chef at Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort, where traditional
Concepts, Hospitality Group, Marriott International; and Shane Giles,
Moroccan favourites, Lebanese cuisine and Omani delicacies can be savoured
Director of Food & Beverage Concepts AMEA, InterContinental Hotels Group.
in a contemporary and refined setting at Shahrazad Restaurant.
Waring will present the unique design principles from Silverfox Studios’ W Hotel Amman project, emphasising the considerations needed to keep
www.tothetableemea.com
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Table 14th – 16th January 2018 London
T
able, taking place at London Olympia, is set to bring the world’s leading tableware brands face to face with key F&B purchasers.. Serving the hospitality purchasing sector, in which London
plays a pivotal international role, insiders have welcomed the launch, that sees a select presentation of 30 key brands, as well as a sector-focussed seminar programme. The event will also attract an international audience of hospitality buyers, owners, operators, purchasing specialists, interior designers and influencers from the restaurant, hotel, airline, spa and hospitality industry. With a strict focus on quality and design, buyers will have the opportunity to meet with specialists able to produce bespoke and personalised items suitable for F&B applications, across various divisions including hospitality, travel and airline F&B. Organised into three categories: Cook & Dine; Interiors; and Food, confirmed exhibitors include Fiskars, Wedgwood, Nick Munro, Alessi, Studio William, Waterford, Royal Doulton, Royal Albert, Figgjo, Goodfellows and Mepra. “Table fills a genuine gap in the market,” comments Tim Harper, Head of Hospitality, Fiskars Living Business. “There is nowhere else that gives F&B professionals the opportunity to see such a focused collection of luxury tableware and design-led F&B products. The timing and London location are just right and I’m really looking forward to this exciting new event. It’s long overdue.” Taking place in the sumptuous Pillar Hall at Olympia, the event is organised by Clarion Events with the support of Supper magazine, and co-located with long-established international trade event Top Drawer – showcasing an expertly curated selection of design-led interiors, while delivering an additional complementary audience of 15,000 trade buyers to Table. www.tablelondon.com
EVENT CALENDAR 41 Madison
To The Table MEA
Hotelympia
17th – 20th October 2017
14th – 16th November 2017
5th - 8th March 2018
New York
Muscat
London
Host
Sleep
GRIF
20th – 24th October 2017
22nd - 23rd November 2017
12th - 14th March 2018
Milan
London
Dubai
HX
Table
ProWein
12th – 14th November 2017
14th - 16th January 2018
18th - 20th March 2018
New York
London
Dusseldorf
Int’l Wine and Spirits Fair
Ambiente
FHA
9th - 11th November 2017
9th - 13th February 2018
25th - 27th April 2018
Hong Kong
Frankfurt
Singapore
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Extraordinary Machine: Robert Welch For six decades Robert Welch has been at the forefront of British silverware design, redefining form, material and function along the way, whilst remaining a strictly family affair.
Words: Kristofer Thomas
N
estled away on an old country road that peels off from Chipping Campden’s high street sits an old silk mill. The mill – once home to C.R. Ashbee’s Guild of Handicrafts, at the core of the Cotswolds’ early 20th century arts and crafts movement – has, since 1955, been the
home, studio and creative hub of Robert Welch, now Robert Welch Designs. It was here that Welch established a small workshop and living space as a promising young craftsman, setting wheels in motion that would sixty years later see his name etched into the annals of British design history, and his company synonymous with elegant metal. Marrying the worlds of industrial design and silversmithing, and combining these practices with a passion for fine art, Welch’s work - spanning cutlery and tableware, amongst other categories - occupies revered space within the industry. Now, with a 70-strong team, and output overseen by his children Alice and Rupert, the brand pushes forward and continues to produce celebrated work, though hasn’t lost sight of the values, ideals and core approaches set out all those years ago. Having studied at Birmingham College of Art’s School of Silversmithing and Jewellery, and the Royal College of Art in London, Welch received a scholarship
Clockwise: The Old Silk Mill; Alveston; Robert Welch’s first studio
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“I think the key element in our designs is the balance between function and form.”
to further pursue his interests. It was a trip to Sweden, funded by this
that still guides the production, design and manufacturing processes.
grant, and particularly a bank-front display showcasing the work of
The current iteration of Robert Welch, for example, has worked to
Sigurd Persson, that determined a lifelong focus on stainless steel.
cultivate close relationships with factory owners and hotel chains alike,
“The things that we always look back to are ideas of shape, form and
including Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts, and individual properties
permanence,” says Charlotte Booth, Robert Welch’s heritage officer
such as Burj Al Arab, in which the striking symmetry of the Molton
and archivist. “Robert’s work is sculptural, it stands for itself and isn’t
cutlery collection appears.
designed for design’s sake.” Returning with Scandinavian influences fresh in mind, Welch established close ties with prominent stainless-steel manufacturers J. & J. Wiggin, and began working to reintroduce stainless steel to a post-war
“I think the key element in our designs is the balance between function and form,” says Alice. “It doesn’t have to be monumental, but as long as the proportions are exactly right, that’s what we look for.” Having grown up surrounded by their father’s work and having
market that saw the material as something of a luxury. “Between him
used it daily, Rupert and Alice were primed to take the helm following
and Old Hall, they brought stainless steel back to the forefront of British
their father’s death at the turn of the millennium. After a transition
craft with their passion and drive,” Booth adds.
period in which they began to determine a direction, Rupert presented
The archive that Booth has managed over recent years contains an
Robert with the first product of this new era, Stanton, just hours before
expansive selection of landmark releases, alongside obscure rarities, and
his father’s passing. Though it marked the first range not envisioned
reflects, in a way, the manner in which Welch would design: surrounded
personally by Robert, it nonetheless refers to the philosophical
by his work for inspiration.
touchstones he established. “Everything we do is mindful of our father’s
“Having his archive around us reminds us why having his archive
philosophy, integrity and ways of doing things,” Rupert comments.
around him was so influential. He lived with it,” Booth explains. “We
“Dad’s ethos was timeless classic. It doesn’t date. It’s not a fashion
take inspiration from it in the same way that he did.”
brand,” adds Alice.
The products themselves remain as influential today as ever, with
However, though the siblings keep firmly in mind the achievements
flagship range Campden – created to challenge the dominance of
and values of their father, the company is far from stuck in the past.
Scandinavian design in 1956 – and the Alveston range from 1961,
Now having branched into gift, bathroom and homeware - and having
bearing subtle innovations still visible in today’s market. Meanwhile,
greatly diversified the core kitchen and cutlery ranges to include a
current releases such as the Signature Knife Block set and the bestselling
wealth of new configurations, variations and additions - the designs still
Radford cutlery range continue to push the practice forwards.
bear Welch’s signature combination of being functional and sculptural
“There’s a lot of innovation involved, but it’s about being innovative without being too brash,” explains Paul deBretton Gordon, the company’s design director for the last 12 years. Citing the incorporation
– thanks in large part to the respect the brand pays its origins – but are instilled with contemporary nuances by this new generation. New releases such as the linear Trattoria cutlery set exemplify this,
of hidden magnets within the Signature Knife Block as an example
moulding premium 18/10 stainless steel into a collection that sits
– a feature that means neither blade nor container is damaged after
balanced in the hand whilst boasting a reinterpretation of traditional
prolonged use – he highlights the subtle unconventionality the brand
European bistro aesthetics.
continues to advocate. “You almost don’t want to shout about it, because you’d rather they just work as well as they possibly can,” he adds. Paul works closely with senior designer and wife Kit deBretton
“Cutlery is the one thing that the diner is in constant contact with,” Alice explains. “When you have good cutlery that’s comfortable, balanced and works well, it clicks, and you get the sense that the
Gordon, with the pair guiding the Robert Welch aesthetic for the last
restaurant really knows what makes you happy. Cutlery makes you feel
decade, alongside Alice and Rupert, all working within the framework
good about the dining experience.”
of what they refer to as ‘The Robert Welch way’. “It’s the way we like
Still about family and the past, as it always was, but looking ahead as
to think as a family and as a company,” Kit explains. “It’s about being
Robert Welch the man always did, Robert Welch Designs may be defined
truthful and honest in everything we do, from the top level down to
by its prestigious legacy, but refuses ever to stop moving forward.
the factory.” Family is certainly a defining element of the company, and one
www.robertwelch.com
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FROM TECHNOLOGY TO TASTES: What’s New & What’s Next
FIND IT ALL AT NRA SHOW® 2018 More than 66,000 foodservice professionals from around the globe will gather in Chicago to be inspired by celebrity chefs, get revenue-increasing tips from industry experts and test-drive innovative technology.
Join us and find solutions to your biggest business challenges.
Register Today at Restaurant.org/Show
©2017 National Restaurant Association. All rights reserved. The Commercial Service logo is a registered trademark of the U.S. Department of Commerce, used with permission.
PETITS FOURS
Crossline Zieher
Zieher’s Crossline serving series boasts a high degree of stability thanks to elaborate static elements constructed from galvanised steel and coated with scratchproof powder coating. Low-weight and space saving, the Crossline range features trestles that can be adjusted to the shape of a bowl, as well as felt covered supports to minimise noise and provide slip-resistance. Available in a matte black finish, the range can be combined with most materials and textures, and allows for an understated yet effective service solution that blends unobtrusively into a variety of schemes and ambiences. www.zieher.com
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PETITS FOURS
Revelation Eurocave
Bar Spoon Bonzer
Joining Bonzer’s existing range of bar spoons is a selection of extended sizes and new finishes, including distressed steel and gunmetal options. The extended model measures 400mm, though features the same 5ml spoon and disc muddler combination. It is especially suited to drinks created in taller glasses such as highball, hurricane and Collins varieties. Bonzer has also launched longer versions of its Droplet and Triple Spear Mixing Spoons, offering an attention-grabbing profile alongside functional and ergonomic construction. www.mitchellcooper.co.uk
Featuring soft close drawers as opposed to classic rolling shelves, as well as additional internal lighting, the Revelation range of wine coolers by Eurocave allows wine to mature in ideal cellar conditions. Recreating the environments found in natural cellars by generating constant ventilation, providing UV filtration and protection from vibrations, the range also operates with low noise levels. The display shows temperature and humidity, and each model has a capacity of between 74 – 100 bottles. www.eurocave.co.uk
Mixology
Luigi Bormioli
WE8 Jura
Boasting 12 specialities and a maximum output of 40 per day, Jura’s WE8 coffee machine features a sleek design, housing a pulse extraction process that optimises extraction time for the best possible serve. The system also incorporates one touch operation for ease of use whatever the setting, and further contains a water tank with 3l holding capacity, a bean container for 500g of coffee beans, and a coffee grounds container for up to 25 portions. uk.jura.com
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Constructed from eco-friendly crystal glass, Luigi Bormioli’s venture into mixology glassware comprises a range of elegant bar vessels, including luxury takes on serving bottles, dash bottles and mixing glasses. Crafted to optimise drinks service and add a touch of opulence to the process, the Mixology collection is as much for guests as it is for bartenders. Inspired by early 20th century aesthetics, the range’s three Elixir dashes each have a capacity of 10cl. www.luigibormioli.com
PETITS FOURS
Bump
Tom Dixon Comprising a family of minimalist borosilicate vessels designed to add intrigue to everyday drinking and hosting, Tom Dixon’s Bump collection is handmade and features subtle levels of pink and grey tonal translucency. Offering an elegant approach to tea making, mixology and serving arrangements, Bump’s borosilicate construction results in a lightweight, durable and temperature resistant collection, with the fused colour tones manipulated into delicately striking designs. Featuring short, tall and cone vases, short and tall glasses, a jug, tea cups and tea pot, Bump is inspired by laboratory apparatus, and an exercise in the manipulation of conical, spherical and tubular profiles. Each member of the collection features a signature unconventional bump in its design, be that the cone vase’s vertical column or the tall glass’ rounded base. www.tomdixon.net
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Europe 2018 Supper ad.qxp_Layout 1 01/09/2017 09:59 Page 2
& 6 3 0 1 & â
16–18 April 2018 Corinthia Grand Hotel, Budapest
S
uppliers of restaurant/bar/banqueting equipment and menu items who do business with Europe’s group-level hotel and restaurant decision makers, find TO THE TABLE EUROPE to be the most productive and valuable event in the industry calendar. l Meet exclusively the most senior group-level heads of restaurants and bars for all European properties, in one 5-Star venue.
l Dedicated, pre-selected appointment schedule for each supplier, with your own private meetings and display area. l No stand build, no exhibition, just high-level 30-minute strategic meetings with Europe's top F&B industry leaders. l Three evenings of top class networking dinner functions, with fantastic F&B, to cement your new relationships. Efficient, targeted, and extremely cost effective!
www.tothetableforums.com For details on all TO THE TABLE events, please see:
Or contact Justin Wall: justin@tothetableforums.com
PETITS FOURS
Sky
Kartio
Georg Jensen’s Sky Collection is designed to accentuate the functional aspects of traditional bar tools, resulting in asymmetrical and ergonomic shapes that sit well in the hand and create a sculptural and elegant silhouette. Leaning more towards simplicity and obviousness of form, designer Aurélien Barbry here emphasises longevity and ease of use without sacrificing the elegant Georg Jensen curves. The collection comprises tools including spoons, bottle openers and corkscrews as well as vessels like jiggers, shakers and pitchers.
Originally released in 1958, the Kaj Frank-designed Kartio glass captures a balance between quality material and geometric form. Simple yet durable enough for everyday use, the basic drinking glass is available in green, grey, blue, sand and transparent colourways. The range comprises 21cl and 40cl glasses, as well as a 95cl pitcher that features a distinctive kink in its tall profile. Channelling a Scandinavian design ethos, Kartio offers an understated table presence.
Georg Jensen
Iittala
www.iittala.com www.georgjensen.com
Tatra
Minera
Inspired by the folk traditions of woodworking, LSA’s Tatra is a range of glass pieces bearing assorted patterns, carved into angular designs. Constructed from hand-blown glass and natural ash wood, the combination creates graphic motifs and distinctive contrasts in texture. Tatra comprises wine glasses and goblets, champagne flutes, cocktail glasses, mixers, tumblers, a decanter, ice bucket and large serving dome. The range is also accompanied by a series of intricately decorated wood bases.
Designed by Studio Nocc, the Minera Carafe is constructed from thick glass to ensure solidity, whilst the intricate textured exterior provides decoration as well as optimal grip. With a pouring spout textured with crystal-like shapes, the action of the pour animates the flow of water over a riverbed for a smooth, tranquil result. Inspired by pebbles, crystals and the wonders of nature, the design is fragile and sensitive but instilled with durability through the incorporation of high quality glass.
LSA
Petite Friture
www.petitefriture.com www.lsa-international.com
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VogueTM 18/10
FLATWARE • STEAK KNIVES • HOLLOWARE • CHAFERS • BUFFETWARE
www.walcostainless.com
136
PETITS FOURS
Modern Tableware Tina Frey
Tina Frey’s hospitality-centred Modern Tableware collection boasts profiles that emphasise clean, linear forms and universal functionality. Maintaining the signature Tina Frey aesthetic, the range is at home in both restaurant and guestroom, and comes in variations of matte white or black. The pieces in the collection are hand sculpted by Tina Frey in San Francisco, with each piece starting with an idea that focuses on simplicity and ease of use. Each piece is also hand sanded and therefore carries a unique finish. Comprising bread, salad and dinner plates, platters, serving trays, a selection of bowls and cups, as well as a champagne cooler and carafe, the range comes as part of the brand’s wider Autumn/Winter slate. www.tinafreydesigns.com
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PETITS FOURS
Artesano Meadow Villeroy & Boch
With the Artesano Meadow collection, Villeroy & Boch brings original, authentic and distinctive colours to the table, complemented by a unique stonewashed effect. The collection consists of six flat round coupe plates and three flat hexagonal plates in three different colours – a friendly date flower yellow, a warm red sun orange and a bold river green. Each item is bordered with an artisanal brushstroke in taupe, creating a clear outline that bridges the different colourways and creates opportunities for a lively mix and match of colours and shapes. Expressive combinations are also possible through the incorporation of members from the Artesano Provençal series, the Artesano Barista special range and the Amarah collection. www.villeroy-boch.co.uk
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La plus ancienne Maison de Vins de la Champagne : AŸ 1584
SUPPER issue 8_GOSSET GRV+OENO_01092017.indd 1
25/07/2017 17:46
PETITS FOURS
Colorée
Palau
Designed by Peter Kempe, Colorée is a vibrantly coloured family of tableware with designs reminiscent of jungle and Caribbean environments. Featuring shades of lagoon blue, absinthe, orange and warm chestnut, the distinctive colour blocks invite creative combination. Channelling contemporary motifs alongside Matisse and Gauguin influences, Colorée builds on the Kap-Sun Hwang-designed Auréole ceramic collection. Bringing together dramaturgy and modernity, the collection is defined by its interplays of rich shades.
Reichenbach’s Palau collection features a series of richly nuanced marine illustrations in blue ink, contrasting with the plate’s smooth contours in matte white with a glossy finish. Inspired by the facades of Portuguese palaces overlooking the Atlantic, Palau is charmingly varied and comprises bread, dessert, pasta, under and dinner plates, as well as oval platters and salad bowls, with designs ranging from delicate sketches to solid circumference patterns.
Fürstenberg
Reichenbach
www.porzellanmanufaktur.net www.fuerstenberg-porzellan.com
Gio
Basic Bar Classic
Relaxed and contemporary, Wedgwood’s Gio tableware collection in fine bone china brings together plates, bowls, mugs, cups, saucers and serverware. Designed to be used every day and for every meal, and boasting a pure white background to build upon, Gio is inspired by bespoke Intaglio markings and geometric patterns, where layers of ceramic are cut through to produce textured embossment. The range can be combined with Wedgwood’s Arris collection for a sophisticated layering aesthetic.
Designed by Charles Schumann and featuring a traditional diamond cut, Zwiesel Kristallglas’ Basic Bar Classic includes a tumbler double old fashioned for whiskey and large drinks, a tumbler single for malts, as well as a cocktail glass and a whiskey caraffe. With this release Schott Zweisel expands its bar collection to form a complete bar concept, featuring vessels finished with hand-cut scores. Designed to meet the demands of modern bar settings, the range balances intricate design with durable material.
www.wedgwood.co.uk
www.zwiesel-kristallglas.com
Wedgwood
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Zwiesel Kristallglas
NEW CONCEPT BY FIGGJO & JENS FAGER www.figgjo.com
170629_Figgjo_news_236x275.indd 1
29.06.17 15.33
PETITS FOURS
Extraordinary Metal Alessi
At the heart of Alessi’s Extraordinary Metal collection is the art of metal processing, and a reinterpretation of the metal surface. Exploring innovative shapes and profiles within brass, the range channels an industrial take on Etruscan granulation, an ancient goldsmith’s technique. The traditional process involves welding miniature gold or silver spheres onto a metal foil to create luminous detailing, and is often used to produce lavish jewellery. Here the technique is applied to a series of contemporary objects to enhance their complex shapes with gleaming, decorative surfaces influenced by the Fibonacci sequence. Comprising 16 vessels, trays and coasters all designed in brass with a decorative relief motif, Extraordinary Metal is designed by Lluis Clotet, and acts as a statement collection that brings bold colour and shape to the table. www.alessi.com
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Sleep For brilliant experiences
21–22 November 2017 The Business Design Centre, London Register free at thesleepevent.com
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PETITS FOURS
1924
Tin Tin
Fusing Jazz Age flair with new cocktail trends, Libbey’s 1924 range is based on Richard Zijlstra’s Glassology food-pairing concept and lets users rest a stylish spoon on the rim of the coupe. Modernising the original coupe design by A.D. Copier, 1924 sees the addition of a cocktail and wine glass, and a gin and tonic glass. With their distinctive stems, embossed footplates and original bowl design, the glasses work to enhance both taste and experience with rims that gracefully open outwards.
Drawing on decades of tradition and technical expertise, Luzerne’s Tin Tin range of enamelware playfully juxtaposes ceramic with glossy enamel for a nostalgic aesthetic. Comprising plates, bowls and drinking vessels, the collection has twice been fired and fully vitrified to create a premium finish. Bringing a classic look and feel to table compositions, Tin Tin’s reimagining of traditional enamelware for a new audience sees the range incorporate colourways including black, green and navy.
www.libbey.com
www.luzerne.com
Sazerac Kit
Sequence
An authentic Sazerac kit produced in collaboration with cocktail authority David Wondrich, Cocktail Kingdom’s box includes a Miret barspoon in traditional silver-plated EPNS finish, two lead-free crystal Sazerac glasses and a Wilkinson Julep strainer - the essentials for a stylish bar front. The strainer’s distinctive shell design complements the barspoon’s spiralled handle for a consistent decorative motif, whilst the lead-free crystal of the glasses provides durability and longevity after repeated use, as well as an elegant addition to service.
Hepp’s Sequence buffet concept is a 40-piece collection comprising the essentials of buffet service in materials including stainless steel, porcelain, fabric, plastic and wood. Featuring matching modules in a variety of heights, asymmetrical shapes and profiles, Sequence combines premium construction and functionality with a forward-thinking design ethos. Containing mountain plates, ice buckets, breadboards, baskets, plates and other service pieces, members of the expansive collection can be combined for distinctive results.
www.cocktailkingdom.com
www.hepp.de
Libbey
Cocktail Kingdom
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Luzerne
Hepp
PETITS FOURS
High Tea Set
Absolute Lifestyle Absolute Lifestyle’s High Tea Set is a three-levelled service solution for tea and beverage products, constructed from a durable and opulent combination of acrylic, metal and white gold. With configurations including a version bringing together a bold linear profile with gently curved elements and another, more simplistic arrangement of four platforms, the set offers variety, versatility and style. Grounded in a philosophy of teamwork and functional design, Absolute Lifestyle’s end-to-end approach supports both interior and operational designs. Suitable for luxurious 5-star boutiques and global franchise properties alike, the High Tea Stand bares all the signature hallmarks of an Absolute Lifestyle product. www.alhkg.com
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Tens of thousands of products and solutions from across the globe
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PETITS FOURS
Stem Zero
Ivy Flourish
A simple and elegant range of sophisticated glassware to satisfy even the most discerning wine connoisseur, Nude’s Stem Zero collection features a slightly smaller and more delicately sized glass for complex white wines. The bowl is subtle and slim, and tapers towards a finely edged brim for a crisp profile. Comprising champagne, white wine and red wine glasses, the family has been designed in-house and is available in a range of sizes.
Featuring a wide rim enhanced by a paisley pattern, Oneida’s Ivy Flourish dinnerware collection provides a pure canvas on which chef’s can express through bold colours and shapes. The millennial-inspired pattern sets a subtly elegant tone across plates and bowls, as well as a selection of decorative cutlery in a high polished finish. The cutlery’s oxidised incised lines emphasise the intricacy of the delicate scrollwork, whilst the plate’s refined rims adds a hint of sophistication to the table landscape.
Nude
Oneida
www.nudeglass.com www.oneida.com
Karbon
Concrete
Focusing on a combination of Matte black and grainy texture, Rak’s Karbon range contains flat, deep and oval plates, cups, saucers and bowls as well as a series of square and rectangular items. The matte finish creates a playful contrast of light and dark, whilst the unusual texture lends a sense of intrigue. Featuring gentle rounded edges that juxtapose with the range’s oblique colourway, Karbon is an intelligent expansion of Rak’s striking product line.
Designed in response to customer demand for a tableware product that suits a more industrial style of interior scheme, Dudson’s Concrete features a soft grey palette that complements neutral and earthy tones. With a surface reminiscent of polished marble, the collection works well with copper or brass, and can create a sense of warmth within colder design schemes. The range’s plates and chef’s bowls are vitrified for a smooth finish and durable thanks to premium construction.
www.rakporcelain.com
www.dudson.com
RAK Porcelain
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Dudson
The leading magazine for hotel design, development and architecture. Subscribe online and save 20% www.sleepermagazine.com/showoffer/
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Rétro
La Tavola Rétro, La Tavola’s flatware range comprising vintage-style cutlery with a distinctive contemporary twist, seeks to reinterpret classic profiles and forms through a modern lens. Unifying traditional European bistro aesthetics with a sense of retro chic, the range is available in finishes including stainless steel as well as three titanium variations – gold, Venetian gold and platinum champagne. With its elegant stonewashed finish, Rétro can be effectively married with the many nuances of modern porcelain, contrasting as well as complementing. The stonewash finish - as well as achieving a striking distressed and aged look lends a pleasingly worn feel to the range and the wider table scheme. www.la-tavola.it
150
PETITS FOURS
151
ADVERTISING INDEX
absolute lifestyle
071
004 & 005
Rosendale Design
023
Sleep Event
143
Bonna 131
Sleeper Magazine
149
Brintons 107
Stรถlzle 101
FHA 147
Table 085
Figgjo 141
Tafelstern 035
093
Tiger 059
Ambiente 047 Bodegas Marques de Caceres
Fonderia Finco
049
Goodfellows 042 Gosset Champagne
139
Heritage Collection
111
John Jenkins
045
Tina Frey
006 & 007
To The table - Asia
153
To The table - Europe
133
VEEN 011
Jura 105
Vertex China
080
Kalisher 002
Vetrerie Riunite
029
La Tavola
015
Victorinox 083 095
LSA 012
Villeroy & Boch
Luzerne 156
Walco 135
145
Wedgwood 155
NRA 128
WNK 119
Pordamsa 075
Zieher 039
NIKKO Company
Renarte 033
152
Robert Welch
MEA 2017 Supper ad.qxp_Layout 1 01/09/2017 16:10 Page 1
S
uppliers of restaurant/bar/banqueting equipment and menu items who do business with Asia’s group-level hotel and restaurant decision makers, find TO THE TABLE Asia to be the most productive and valuable event in the industry calendar. Meet exclusively the most senior group-level heads of restaurants and bars for all properties across the Asia Pacific region. l Dedicated, pre-selected appointment schedule for each supplier, with your own private meetings and display area. l No stand-build, no exhibition, just highlevel 30-minute strategic meetings with Asia’s top F&B industry leaders. l Three evenings of top class networking dinner functions, with fantastic F&B, to cement your new relationships.
9–11 October 2018 Grand Hyatt, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Efficient, targeted, extremely cost effective!
www.tothetableforums.com For details on all TO THE TABLE events, please see:
Or contact Justin Wall: justin@tothetableforums.com
THE WASHING UP
Purely Moving Forward Words: Guy Heksch, Global Vice President, Pure Grey Culinary Concepts Hospitality Group, Marriott International
I
grew up in a hotel. By age six and until I left home, I was
were clearly the future. But our biggest focus was integrating
cooking, serving, escorting guests to rooms, and otherwise
a modern food and beverage programme that spoke to locals.
learning the business of hotels through those my family
For the Stoke Charlotte restaurant, we tore down walls so the
owned and operated. My first job was peeling potatoes
kitchen team was on display. A local chef was hired and we
in the kitchen, and I worked through the ranks as pool boy,
placed an emphasis on local farms and producers. Stoke Bar
bellman, front desk agent, waiter and cook. Whether I was
offers both classic-driven cocktails and dozens of local craft
preparing food, making wine selections or hosting, the best
beers from North Carolina’s booming breweries. The third
part was connecting with people and eating and drinking was
element of the culinary operation is a neighbourhood coffee
the life of our hotels. These early experiences seeded what has
shop, Coco and the Director, which also has free collaborative
become my life’s work: creating memorable and meaningful
spaces for people to use for meetings and developing projects.
experiences for travellers and communities.
Pure Grey is the next step. We now have an independent
Along the way, I was travelling myself and exploring the
consulting group under the Marriott umbrella with complete
world; discovering how to make myself at home wherever I was
creative and operational autonomy. We offer comprehensive
and applying that to how I approached the food and beverage
consulting solutions as well as a la carte services for restaurant
industry. I experienced firsthand how restaurants and bars
and bar origination and activation, everything from concept
were evolving, along with the guests and neighbourhoods
development and design to construction management,
they were serving. Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Daniel Boulud,
opening support and assistance with ongoing operations. It’s
Daniel Humm and more high-level chefs were partnering with
about customisable options with turnkey execution.
hotels. ACE Hotel made a name for itself in Portland, Oregon.
My team is drawn from some of the finest hotels in the
For the big global hotel brands it was no longer about big
world with expertise in every aspect of food and beverage
global solutions, it was about thinking intimately and locally.
management. The heart of our office is our kitchen, allowing
For Marriott, I understood that change is relevance and that
us to test recipes and develop menus for new concepts. We
we needed to re-think and re-evaluate.
are robust and nimble and have already embarked on projects
The first project of our Innovation Group was a ground up
in the Americas, Europe and the Middle East.
reimagining of what a Marriott hotel could be. We bought
I am a true believer in the power of eating and drinking -
the Charlotte Marriott City Center, a hotel that was well
how the act and ritual of sustenance defines us as humans. I
performing on the room side but with a weak F&B offer that
also believe in moving forwards, always, and in considering
was outdated and held little appeal to locals. We closed it
what we are doing for tomorrow, not what we did 50 or five
down and embarked on a full renovation. The rooms were
years ago. We are delivering in ways we didn’t imagine even
completely redone, the guest experience upgraded and
a year ago, and it feels like home.
technology was introduced at every step of the process. The Marriott customer was evolving and tech-savvy Millennials
154
www.pure-grey.com
THE HOSP I TALI TY COLLE C TI ON www.wwrdhospitality.com
WWRD Supper magazine advert SEP 17 AW.indd 1
14/09/2017 10:55
Tin Tin: a time-travelling maestro Enamelware is making a comeback in an unexpected fashion – ceramic. Cloaked in a new sheen of gloss, the timeless classic exudes a modest sense of novelty while playfully revealing deliberate flaws on the rims. These beautiful imperfections drop hints on the travails it has been through: from knocks in the kitchen to constant beatings by the egg whisk. Bashful but gregarious in the right setting, it greets you very much like the freckled girl next door. Tin Tin will be making its rounds at major trade shows soon.
luzerne.com