ISSUE 9
Robin Hutson
On bringing boutiques to Britain and life with The Pigs
Malcolm Lee
Singaporean food for today, inspired by tradition
Tim Mutton
When it comes to design, why he’s happy to be a Blacksheep
“True art, when it happens to us, challenges the “I” that we are.” — Jeanette Winterson “Future Mirror” by Hannah Stewart © Kalisher
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CONTENTS
Setting
SPECIALS
Entrée 009
Starters
The Politics of Dining
The Halyard
SIPPING Cocktails 041
The Perception
Appetisers 013
W London, Leicester Square
Trends and concepts impacting the world of
Morimoto
global hotel F&B
Mondrian Doha Seafood Bar
042
Classic Jasmine
082
044 046
Drinks House Bar
048
084
Kimpton De Witt, Amsterdam Set Your Spirit Free
The Drake Hotel, Toronto
SERVICE
081
Hotel Montefiore, Tel Aviv
The Breakers, Palm Beach Drake Commissary
Black Beauty Blind Spot, St Martins Lane, London
Sound View, Greenport
088
Sobering Thoughts 094 Sober Grapes
100
Main Course A Very Big House in the Country
018
City Mouse
The Pig Hotels’ Robin Hutson discusses why
Ace Hotel, Chicago
F&B is at the heart of a hotel
The Dining Room
060 064
The Tamburlaine, Cambridge To Crack a Candlenut
024
Chef Malcolm Lee on reimagining the
The Lounge The Pilgrm, London
culinary traditions of Singapore
Fiskebar
072
030
Blacksheep’s Tim Mutton talks disruptive
Ferris
076
Tomorrow’s Restaurant World
Petits Fours 128 The Washing Up
MADE Hotel, New York
design and why hotels need to catch up
The cyber battle is on
Events 114 Wedgwood 124
The Ritz-Carlton Hotel de la Paix, Geneva The Black Sheep of Design
SIDES
068
146
David Edwards, JPA Design 036
SPREAD Hering Berlin: The Science of Plants
051
003
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CREATIVE DESIGN LUXURY HOSPITALITY horeca.lsa-international.com
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Setting
“If you take the F&B out of the gaps in a hotel, it’s got no heart. It’s just a block of flats.” The Pig Hotels’ Robin Hutson on the heart of a hotel.
ENTRée
Millenial Minded
R
ecently - over dinner at an appealing new
that what we really mean – people young enough to
boutique hotel - a hearty discussion was
set trends and spearhead change, but old enough to
sparked over the use of Millenial Pink in
have spending power?
some of the lounge’s furnishings. The hotel’s
The hospitality sector - like most industries
PR and marketing guru noted that it felt stylistically
- has long sought to entice a youthful market. In
in keeping with the attitude they were going for,
doing so, a new generation of guests and customers
while an F&B designer friend lamented that the
are created and, for the most part, it results in
term existed at all: “Which other generation has
concepts that still appeal to everyone else. After all,
been so beatified as to warrant their own colour?”
inoffensively appeal to the young and one is still
At times it does seem that the hotel industry has an
likely to attract those who are older. Flip it around
almost insatiable need to appeal to this collection of
and the same is rarely true. But the problem with a
supposedly artisanal-coffee-drinking, Instagram-
label like Millenial – for a generation so apparently
loving, city-hopping, sourdough-buying men and
detesting of labels – is the propensity for descending
women, who are old enough to remember drinks
into cliché and writing it off as targeted thinking or,
trolleys the first time around, but young enough to
even worse, forward thinking.
claim them as a recent discovery.
The difficulty with the Millenial-minded project
I should highlight at this point that I fall indelibly
is that it rarely feels new, instead merely a reflection
into the ‘Millenial’ category. And, truth be told,
of the new normal. That’s not necessarily a bad
quite enjoy a regular dose of all of the activities
thing, but get too bogged down in what ‘Millenials’
listed. But I do wonder at what point my Pound,
want - instead of thinking about the changing
or Dollar, or Euro became the one to chase. Are
ways we all live and consume - and the risk is the
Millenials really that important, are they worth
creation of what is simply one long and drawn
devising and designing for and, crucially, do they
out compound-trend, defined by bar-lobbies and
ultimately exist as we think of them?
pineapple motifs.
We often pay little heed to the broadness of the
I like golden pineapples and dusky pink as much
term – those born between 1981 and 2000 – and
as the next guy, but what I really want is innovation;
define Millenials in strict terms, discussing ad
the new, not the new normal. Don’t give me what
nauseam their lifestyle habits and how to cater
I want, give me what I don’t know I want yet. And
there for. We lob around words like experiential, real
this coming from a Millenial.
and social, but there’s an argument that hoteliers
As I move on to my own new chapter, and with
and F&B professionals are chasing the idea of a
this my last issue as editor of Supper, a rapturous
demographic, more than a demographic itself. If
thank you to those who have supported the title
we supplemented the word Millenial, for the word
under my tenure.
‘young’, would it have the same clout? And yet isn’t
Harry McKinley | Editor
009
THE BRIGADE
Editorial
Advertising
Finance
Editor-in-Chief
Advertising Manager
Finance Director
Matt Turner
Rachel Chadwick
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m.turner@mondiale.co.uk
r.chadwick@mondiale.co.uk
a.giles@mondiale.co.uk
Editor Harry McKinley
Marketing
suppereditor@mondiale.co.uk
Group Credit Controller Lynette Levi l.levi@mondiale.co.uk
Editorial Assistant
Brand Director
Group Financial Controller
Kristofer Thomas
Amy Wright
Sarah Healey
k.thomas@mondiale.co.uk
a.wright@mondiale.co.uk
s.miller@mondiale.co.uk
Editorial Assistant Ben Thomas
Design
Kerry Mountney k.mountney@mondiale.co.uk
b.thomas@mondiale.co.uk
Contributors
Accounts Assistant
Design David Bell
Corporate
d.bell@mondiale.co.uk
Alia Akkam
Production
Chairman
Angus Winchester
Dan Seaton
Damian Walsh
Daven Wu
d.seaton@mondiale.co.uk
d.walsh@mondiale.co.uk
David Edwards Caroline Morrish Emma Love Heleri Rande
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APPETISERS
Going Green
An undergrowth of biophilic design has been emerging at
Behavior, comprising a multisensory concept built around
the feet of hoteliers recently. Perhaps the allure of biophilia
a plethora of greenery. Combining elements of community
is caused by our innate affinity to nature, and perchance its
and a layered homeliness, the urban retreat uses weathered
growth derives from a generational elevation in wellness,
redwood from water tanks alongside tone on tone green
re-connecting us with an environment degraded by over-
plaster to create an eco-friendly sanctuary in an ever-
indulgence.
industrial metropolis.
“We define luxury in many ways, one of which is connecting
Expanding the hotel experience from guestrooms and
with nature,” explains Maria Warner Wong, co-founder of
public spaces to restaurants and bars has become paramount
WOW Architects and Warner Wong Design. The firm designed
in today’s sustainability-focused hospitality industry, with
the renowned The St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort, fusing
natural elements proving subconsciously attractive to guests.
contemporary architecture and Maldivian inspiration to
According to a study conducted by carpet design company
create the hotel’s Sunset bar. Built in a shape reminiscent of a
Interface, in partnership with sustainability consulting firm
whale shark, the space features coral chandeliers and a mural
Terrapin Bright Green, Vice President of Marketing David
etched into its wooden ceiling incorporating the traditional
Gerson notes that guests are willing to spend 25% more on
local techniques of pyrography. “All of the materials we use,
a food and beverage item that affords a sense of theatre.
whether in architecture or design, are considered,” Wong
“You’re not just selling a product, but an experience,” adds
adds. “It is essential that designers consider the maintenance
Candice Madrid-Dahlqvist, Design Director at Millkeeper
of every last material used in a project.”
Studio, which has designed boutique hotels At Six and The
Biophilic design, made up of varying materials reminiscent
Hobo in Stockholm. This experience can also extend to the
of nature, each creating a sensory element that plays to a
immersion of hotel staff in a project’s philosophy, with
guest’s five senses to add a deeper level of connection to
Interface evidencing a 6% increase in productivity when
the surrounding environment, has become popular for F&B
people are exposed to biophilic elements in the workspace.
designers, thanks in part to its sustainable longevity as well as the aesthetic possibilities if offers.
Hoteliers are continually facing increasing pressure from eco-conscious Millennials to introduce greener, sustainable
La Capitale, within Four Seasons Hotel Amman, introduced
designs that in the same instance can be luxurious. Biophilic
biophilia to its interiors using greenery-filled planters and
design, encouraging guests to form a complex connection
custom teak wood designed tables. The restaurant also
with the environment they inhabit, could potentially
features an extended terrace, encompassing a vertical herb
combat the demands of this generation of eco-friendly
garden with fresh produce used in-house by Chef de Cuisine
luxury travellers and provide designers and operators with a
Arthur Vonderheyden.
profitable ethos for the future.
At Made New York, Studio Mai created rooftop bar Good
013
APPETISERS
Make it Yourself
Following an increase in consumer spending for the
meal-delivery service PeachDish, a culinary course enables
online grocery industry in 2016 - a 160% rise from the
extended stay guests to receive and prepare fresh and healthy
previous year - Wyndham Hotel Group implemented a
meals immediately after check-in, with discounted rates. On
grocery delivery pilot at eight of its Hawthorn Suites,
top of the partnership in the US, all HomeWood Suites by
where extended-stay guests can receive items directly to
Hiltons feature complimentary grocery shopping services,
their accommodations via a digital ordering programme.
allowing guests to leave lists with hotel employees and return
Through a partnership with Peapod and Instacart, the
Similarly, boutique hotel chain Affinia Hotel Collection
dishes to be cooked in comfort – eliminating the need for
announced a partnership with FreshDirect, a New York-
guests to venture out for ingredients in an unfamiliar
based grocery delivery service employed to distribute ready-
city. As the lifestyle of the modern traveller evolves, this
to-make meals to hotel guests. Served as ‘business’ and
forward-thinking project proved itself a new exemplary in
‘healthy’ kits, containing items such as fruit, vegetables,
an arguably declining age for room service.
Greek yogurt and cookies, as well as four-minute meals
“Food today is news. It has become content that is
that can be heated in-suite, they also cater to grab-and-
ongoing,” explains Ido Garini, Creative Director of Studio
go consumers and extended stay guests – while retaining
Appétit, an F&B design studio. “I think that all of us of have
a sense of modernity through Affinia’s online e-concierge
to have creative ADHD, and if we want something to stick,
service.
we have to trigger emotions.”
But shedding doubt on this culinary movement, Puccini
While many chefs establishing signature restaurants on
Group’s founder and CEO Bob Puccini noted: “For the first
hotel property are aiming to revolutionise room service by
time ever in the USA, dining out dollars are more than those
offering their complete culinary menu – without the need
being spent in grocery stores.” Yet if grocery shopping could
for guests to leave their complimentary robe and slippers
be delivered to the hotel guest with convenience, could these
- other operators are seeking to trigger home-from-home
figures be reversed?
emotions through grocery delivery services. Many hoteliers
With food-industry consulting firm Techomic evidencing
are conscious of the tightrope between forward-thinking
that the sales of fresh meal kits outpaced all other foodservice
convenience and traditional luxury, so how to find a balance
segments in 2015, at $1 billion globally, and predicting that
between a homely yet distinct F&B experience and a concept
the meal-kit service segment will grow between $3 billion
that generates both profit and intrigue?
to $5 billion over the next 10 years, the chain brands that
One experiential model is that of HomeWood Suites by Hilton, in Atlanta and Dallas, where, in conjunction with
014
to a fully stocked refrigerator.
new amenity is designed to offer healthy and cost-effective
dominate the market could learn from these more intimate, make-it-yourself F&B options.
APPETISERS
Deck the Halls
According to a study conducted by Culinary Visions Panel, 59%
in street-facing locations where hotel guests and passers by
of consumers highlighted the variety of F&B offerings as a
are enticed with fast-fuelling variety and value. And with some
key factor in the appeal of food halls. Meanwhile, a report
sources suggesting that this food culture is pervasive across
published by Cushman & Wakefield, as cited by the Wall Street
all generations, leading hospitality figures could be forced to
Journal, stated that the number of food halls in the US grew by
rethink their F&B strategy.
37 per cent in 2016 to over 100, a figure set to double by 2019.
At The Ned London, guests are bestowed with nine culinary
The food court’s up-and-coming sibling has fashionably come
options, from all-day Northern Italian cuisine served at a
up trumps, especially within hotel F&B, wherein counter-style
traditional Venetian brasserie, to Californian-inspired superfood
dining is challenging uniformity.
salads, cured seafood and organic juices. Meanwhile, a concoction
Traditional food halls have been popular for generations,
of globally inspired bars induces visitors into French and English
particularly in Europe, as a quick fix for on-the-go consumers.
wines, and time-honoured American classics. Each dining venue
Today, with schedules ever expanding, the hybrid concept -
boasts its own distinct space, and features weekly-refreshed
that blends fast food and quick-service restaurants with casual
menus, something inconceivable in hotel dining a decade ago.
dining - is leading hotel guests to demand a better-tasting
“We wanted there to be something for everyone - different
spread in a bustling environment. The pressure on hospitality
food from different regions and at different price points,”
F&B to showcase a variety of purveyors under one roof, for a
explains Gareth Banner, Managing Director of The Ned. “You
somewhat health-conscious generation, is ripening.
can have a baguette and coffee at Café Sou, or a four-course
Defining a new era for Denver’s social scene, the city’s Union
meal at Lutyens Grill. Initially, it was – in a good way – possibly
Station is a statement of this culinary shift. Combining the three
overwhelming, but now we see regular faces who comment on
public spaces of The Crawford Hotel – The Great Hall, Terminal
the variety we offer.”
Bar and The Cooper Lounge – designers AvroKO evoke a sense
Similarly, The Plaza Hotel in New York features a food hall
of luxury whilst meeting the demand for an eclectic social hub.
now considered one of the city’s hidden secrets. Guests are taken
Introducing custom-designed train benches as seating and
on a curated journey of international cuisines including French,
Pullman car-inspired drinking booths in blue leather, the F&B
Italian, and Chinese.
venue pays homage to the historic station whilst anchoring consumers and balancing the intricate line of decision fatigue. “We see food and beverage further infiltrating all sectors of life and business, and so we see this as being successful both
touched the sides of its potential in the F&B market, with plenty more to bring to the table for the Millennial guest.
in Denver and beyond,” explains William Harris, Principal of
Summing up the changing needs of today’s consumer, Banner
AvroKo. “What once may feel novel will start to feel like standard
noted: “F&B outlets in hotels have come a long way and caught
necessities, and we’ll see quality offerings continue to evolve as
up after a few decades of lagging behind. They used to be a bolt-
tastes become more discerning and sophisticated.”
on, but now restaurants are a huge part of the guest experience.
These fast-casual concepts deliver high traffic, especially
016
As developers narrow their traditional F&B venues and begin expanding their public spaces, the food hall culture has merely
If done well, they’re an important part of selling guestrooms.”
SERVICE
“A lot of clients ask me what it is that I do, and I’ve come to the conclusion that we are simply translators. We just allow them to communicate in a more powerful way.” Tim Mutton, founder of Blacksheep, on the role of design studios.
SERVICE
A Very Big House in the Country From boutiques to restaurants with rooms, Robin Hutson has carved his own path through the British hospitality landscape. He explains why F&B is at the heart of a hotel.
Words: Harry McKinley
O
ne of the downsides of living outside the
and evidence that early achievement is little indication
urban bubble of London is the need to brave
of future success. After all, at 16 he left school with few
the South of England’s notoriously fickle
qualifications and quickly decamped to the local technical
mainline trains on jaunts into the city. When
college to pursue something more vocational. At 18 he was
Robin Hutson arrives at Soho’s Groucho Club on a windy
taken on by the Savoy Group as part of a management
winter morning he’s already been through the wars, and
trainee programme and assumed his first position as a
his battle with public transport is his first refrain. It’s
commis waiter at Claridge’s. After working his way through
as British an introduction as it’s possible to get, short of
various departments at the group, and spending a year
discussing the weather.
in Paris at Hotel de Crillon, he was asked if he’d like to
Throughout his serpentine career, Hutson has in many
Berkeley. A couple of years in and he was promoted to
redefining the country’s hotel landscape. Before Hutson,
reception manager.
weekending was a very different affair, and typically
“At that time The Berkeley was really the five-star hotel
involved swish estates, priced for those happy to drop a
for people in the know and it had an amazing guest list,”
substantial wad on a cosseted escape to the country or
Hutson recalls. “I’d have Dustin Hoffman on speed dial and
some cobbled town. Hotel du Vin, which Hutson co-
Diana Ross giving me a kiss when she arrived. For a boy
founded with wine expert Gerard Basset in 1994, opened
from south east London, at the age of 22, it was a pretty
the door to boutique hospitality in the UK, whilst The Pig
sexy gig.”
hotels have proved that rustic charm at a reasonable rate will always be a draw. He’s now one of the nation’s most successful hoteliers
018
take up the assistant reception manager position at The
ways channelled notions of ‘Britishness’, whilst also
It was the beginning of what Hutson describes as his ‘career building’ stage and, after meeting his wife, a stint at Elbow Beach Resort in Bermuda followed. Here, he didn’t
The Pig Near Bath, Somerset
just swap the London drizzle for sun and sand, he went from a company
it would be simplified and relaxed. Importantly, it would provide a new
that was all about service delivery to one where marketing was key.
perspective on what a hotel outside of an urban environment was about,
“At that time Savoy was almost anti-commercial. It was a world that most people in our business wouldn’t understand at all. You never
“Today it doesn’t seem like anything radical, but in those days, in
talked about average rates or number of covers, it was all about whether
the sticks, it was all fanned napkins and duck a l’orange. That could be
the Aga Khan was coming in for breakfast,” he says, laughing. “I went
a pretty dire experience,” he says. “Most restaurants in hotels outside
from this rarefied, completely clientele driven business, to working with
of London were empty. So we put together a very simple strategy with
a nut marketing guy, John Jeffries, the manager of the resort. To this
Hotel du Vin, which was to concentrate on the basics. There was nothing
day I credit him with opening my eyes to what marketing was about.
revolutionary about it, we were just picking up on what was happening.”
The product was challenged, because it was very old and needed more investment, but his expertise drove it.” Hutson took his experience back to the UK with him, taking the reins
At Hotel du Vin there would be no white tablecloths, not just because it was more casual, but because they didn’t want the laundry bill. The menu would get to the point: four unfussy starters, four uncluttered
at Hampshire country house hotel, Chewton Glen, as general manager
mains and a few tasty desserts for good measure. The emphasis would
– a role he would hold for eight years. While he describes the hotel
be on quality products and accessible cooking. Unable to afford a
as being ‘at the top of its game’, it was a turbulent time. The country
‘proper’ head chef, Hutson and Basset hired the number two from
was going through a recession, the business had borrowed money and
Chewton Glen’s pastry department – a 29 year-old upstart by the name
interest rates were up. At 36, Hutson saw the market was evolving and
James Martin. Today, of course, Martin is a household name thanks
the industry called for a new outlook. “Chewton Glen was still quite a
to his frequent television spots, but at the time it was something of a
formal offering and I could feel the winds of change,” he explains. “I
gamble. “He didn’t have the full repertoire but he had the right attitude.
was upholding policy that I didn’t really believe in anymore.”
That was at the beginning of modern British food in London, and he got
Partnering with Gerard Basset, head sommelier at Chewton Glen,
it,” he explains. “Hotel du Vin became very food-centric. 60% of the
Hutson set out to do something different. The aim was to deliver a room
revenue was F&B. Each one of those hotels was doing between 100 and
product under £100, but give guests an experience that could compete
150 covers a day, in the middle of nowhere.”
with pricier stays. F&B would be a key component, but sensing that modern overnighters were veering away from silver service stiffness,
020
and could deliver.
The hotel group was sold by Hutson and Basset in 2004, but its original location in Winchester has been billed as, arguably, Britain’s
SERVICE
first boutique hotel. Hotel du Vin set in motion a wave of change in British hospitality and elevated Hutson to crown-bearer of what was still a new-fangled notion. The year after the sale, Hutson was tapped by Nick Jones to get
“Selling the notion of restaurants with rooms, we’re trying to manage guest expectations and then over-deliver”
Babington House off the ground. He admits they did “a lot of learning together”, but credits Jones as having much more of a finger on the “cosmopolitan pulse” than he did. They would forge a diamond-strong relationship working together on Soho House Group, with Hutson ultimately rising to executive chairman. “It was always Nick’s vision and my role, originally, at Soho House
Lime Wood is one of my favourite places to eat. It’s not always the case
was to help him with the organisation of a hotel rather than a restaurant
with your own restaurants, but I love the style Angela’s got there. It’s
or a club,” he says. “I was definitely a sounding board for many years.
precise, it’s clean and without a load of fuss.”
All of the projects right through until LA and Miami, we looked at
Today, Lime Wood is regarded among the top crop of English country
together before the deal was signed. We found the Soho House New York
house hotels and the group has expanded to include Portetta, a ski-in,
location – in the Meatpacking District – together. And perhaps I had a
ski-out resort in the French Alps. It’s still owned by Ratcliffe, while
role in tempering some of his wilder ideas, at a time when we frankly
Hutson manages the business as chairman and CEO.
didn’t have the money to chase every one. Equally, when he needed
It’s younger, scrappier cousins, The Pig Hotels, are a different breed,
support with the board to do something, I was a credible voice around
however - in more than name alone. A 50/50 venture between Hutson
the table. But I think he’s the bravest man in the hospitality business.”
and Ratcliffe, the group was born out of a proposal by Hutson to revive a
When the majority share in the business was sold to Richard Caring in
small, ailing hotel in Brockenhurst, near Lime Wood. “There were a few
2008, for £105 million, Hutson saw it as an opportunity to bow out after
other little businesses that also came under my responsibility, one of
13 years on the board and explore new avenues. His expertise would once
which was Whitley Ridge. It was losing money, was extremely out-dated
again be sought by another figure aiming to make a mark in hotels –
and – even though it only had 16 rooms – everything was wrong with it.
this time Jim Ratcliffe, the billionaire chemicals entrepreneur, who had
They were trying to do very fancy food, but of an evening there might be
spent a sizeable amount of cash on a property in Hampshire. It would
six covers; only four for lunch. I saw the kitchen garden, though, which
become Lime Wood Hotel, but was then known as Park Hill, which
was full of weeds and realised, maybe, that’s an interesting hook.”
Hutson describes as “sounding like a block of flats in Croydon.” “It was supposed to be a £20 million project, and by the time he asked
From this kernel of an idea bloomed the first of The Pigs, which has grown to a group of five hotels based on kitchen garden food and
me to get involved it was heading towards £40 million,” Hutson says.
“shabby chic” interiors, as Hutson describes – thanks to the decorative
“It was lacking a bit of strategic direction and market positioning. I’d
eye of his wife, Judy. “She hates when I buy some weird sofa from a junk
been at Chewton Glen, which was a very traditional country house hotel,
shop, thinking it will look great,” he quips. “We are not designers. We
and was highly involved with Babington House, which represented a
know how rooms work and we’ve got that down to a fine art, but apart
very contemporary hotel, and we realised there was a wide open gap
from that, we buy stuff we like and we pull it together. She has a good
through the middle, and so that’s what we aimed for.”
eye for colour and it’s meant to look random, collected and evolved, but
Lime Wood embodies the pastoral ease that has become Hutson’s trademark, along with flourishes of luxury. It is, after all, a five-star hotel, but without the pomp and primness that can be off-putting
she will have quite precisely chosen what’s in each hotel. We’ve tried to pull some new tricks in each one though, so they’re not cookie cutter.” While The Pigs – which sit in the likes of Somerset, Devon and
to some. It was always the intention to draw upon the rural location
Hampshire – are known for their quaint, almost rough and tumble,
and seduce guests through the promise of local, wholesome produce,
visual appeal, it is the concept that has shaped their success. Each
sympathetically prepared, but Hutson acknowledges that the hotel really
features a striking restaurant, serving up robust, heart-warming fare.
hit its stride when Chef Angela Hartnett got involved. “We still had the
They are at the core of each hotel - the rooms an accoutrement to the
same team in the kitchen, but it gave them confidence to do simple stuff
experience: “If you take the F&B out of the gaps in a hotel, it’s got no
well,” he says.
heart. It’s just a block of flats.”
Lime Wood’s Hartnett Holder & Co, is a characterful, no-nonsense
“Selling the notion of restaurants with rooms, we’re trying to manage
restaurant that presents Italian dishes, made using ingredients sourced
guest expectations and then over-deliver,” Hutson explains. “We’re
nearby. It is the bedrock of the hotel’s F&B offer and far from a starry
not saying that we’re a full service hotel.” Even the name is intended to
‘sleb-chef’ hangout.
evoke the ethos of the group, inspired by The Spotted Pig in New York.
“It’s much more than a name over the door, which is what I never
“I like the idea that The Pig sounds a little like a pub, because people
wanted it to be,” stresses Hutson. “When we first spoke to her, I only
aren’t scared of pubs. And if they think it’s a pub and then we bowl them
wanted to do it if Angela was committed to being there, and she is, every
over, it’s a win-win. It’s about creating something that isn’t too scary
week. The food at Lime Wood is very much a collaboration between
for ‘mum and dad’, but is cool enough for my kids.”
her and Luke Holder, who was the head chef there before. And it’s
Another driving factor in the health of the group is its accessible price
important that we deliver something genuine and not a false promise. I
point, part of a plan by Hutson from the off to target an under-catered
wanted something where we could put our head above the parapet and,
for middle market. And while rising costs are squeezing The Pigs, the
ultimately, I also love the food. I had dinner there this week and I think
average room rate is still more likely to engender a satisfied oink than
021
SERVICE
The Pig, Brockenhurst
a horrified squeal. Average occupancy is around the 90% mark, fuelled
guest-facing in one form or another for twenty-odd years, long before
by a desire for “special but achievable” weekends from guests. Three
I entered the entrepreneurial world, and so I’ll always come at it from
openings are in the pipeline, with two slated for 2019. Business is good
that angle.
and when it comes to expanding the litter, Hutson has a simple test
run places, luxurious or not, are all about the detail. Every element of
weekend?’ test.
this business should be a considered element. It doesn’t matter if you’re
“I might see a great looking property, that has a postal address in Woking. So I think to myself, ‘darling, would you like to go to Woking for the weekend?’ And it’s a no. But if it were Chichester, I’d think,
talking about the comfort of the bar stools or what cup guests are drinking from, the more consideration that goes into those details the better.” Overrunning, and with some of Hutson’s team stationed on a
‘darling, would you like to go to Chichester for the weekend?’ That’s a
neighbouring sofa waiting for their own session to commence, our chat
yes,” he says, with utmost sincerity. “I saw a great property the other
nears its close. But, I wonder: decades into the industry and having
day with a postal address in Essex. There are many great parts of Essex
already cemented his place as a ground-breaker, does it still hold the
and I have many friends who live in Essex, but I just can’t do it.”
‘sexy’ appeal it did when he was accepting kisses from Diana Ross all of
It’s been a circuitous journey for Hutson, but having become a highly regarded and prosperous hotelier in his own right, he’s pleased
022
“This business is not difficult, but it is about a million details. Well
for determining what is on-brand: the ‘darling, shall we go for the
those years ago? “I’ll say this: to deliver a great experience you have to have a passion
to have taken the long path. It has given him, he believes, a sense of
for this business because it cannot come out of the accountant’s office.
perspective, an empathy with his employees and a focus on the details
Too many hospitality businesses around the world are driven by those
that others may overlook. “There’s absolutely no substitute for putting
sorts of environments and they don’t work because they lack texture.
in the legwork. I know what it’s like to be on the pot wash when your
There should be a little bit of theatre and there should be surprises.
colleague doesn’t turn up for work, and you’re left with it,” he says.
Importantly, it should feel real. I can walk into a hotel and tell you
“It’s hard for individuals who parachute into this business and think it’s
within half a second if a design studio has created it, or if it is someone’s
form over function. The colour of the walls is unlikely to let you down
passion, because it shows.” And if The Pigs are anything to go by,
on a Saturday night during a full service, but your pot washer will. I was
Hutson’s passion still burns bright.
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SERVICE
To Crack a Candlenut Chef Malcolm Lee on the culinary traditions of Singapore, a crying mother and why ‘modern’ is no longer on the menu.
Words: Daven Wu
M
alcolm Lee remembers a childhood home
star. It was the anointment and belated acknowledgement
redolent with the scents of curries and spices;
of what local gourmets had long known: that this was an
chilli pastes concocted from lemongrass and
exceptional restaurant and Lee, one of the country’s most
belachan. He remembers his mother’s slow
important chefs. Important because he belongs to a new
cooking chicken curry, ayam buah keluak and mee siam.
generation of Singaporean chefs that are rediscovering
She had been trained by her mother to cook for large family
the city’s ethnic and cultural roots through its culinary
gatherings of their immediate and extended Peranakan
traditions. Important because he is re-imagining familiar
clan. Twenty for lunch was usual: uncles, aunts, and
favourites in a thoroughly modern, yet familiar, way.
grandparents. Every day.
Specifically, he gleefully up-ends Peranakan classics
It’s almost a cinematic arc that Lee, too, would end up
by sending out spring rolls filled with spicy prawns and
having an abiding love for food and cooking. “I think the
candied winter melon dipped in kalamansi lime cream,
first dish I ever cooked was luncheon meat and a sunny-
and fork-tender charcoal grilled Spanish pork that is
side up,” he says, late one afternoon. It’s after service at his
marinated with sweet dark soy and saw-tooth coriander,
restaurant Candlenut in Singapore’s Como Dempsey – an
and then cooked sous vide for 12 hours. The effect of this
ambitious complex of luxury supermarkets and eateries
marrying of new culinary techniques with local flavours
owned by the hotelier Christina Ong that includes, a few
and ingredients is an outrageously skillful makeover: the
aisles down from Candlenut, an outpost of Jean-Georges
dish remains completely recognizable in its appearance
Vongerichten, and the South-East Asian flagship of Dover
and taste, but it is reworked in a way that elicits smiles and
Street Market.
nostalgic wonder at the creative imagination of the kitchen.
In person, Lee is a compact, trim and taut man. He
Important because Lee is, for all his accomplishments, just
vibrates with a quiet energy. He seems quite unflappable,
33 and it beggars imagination to think of what he is capable
always ready to break into a shy smile, but there is also
of. And important, finally, because the kind of emotion and
a sense of compressed nerves and of being in perpetual
re-imagination that Lee’s cooking evokes doesn’t come
motion. He is polite to a fault, a disarming quality that’s
along all that often. Especially when you realise just how
counterpoised by a steely reserve that’s easy to miss
peripatetic Lee’s path to the professional kitchen has been.
beneath his chef’s whites. In due course, one understands
For starters, his mother, uncomfortably aware of her
that here is a man not to be dismissed quickly, because he
son’s culinary interest and inclination, was aghast at the
has been tempered by the fire.
idea that he would ever contemplate cooking as a career.
In 2016, Candlenut earned Lee and his team a Michelin
Not for her son were the long hours, the lack of a social life,
025
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and the existential loneliness of a chef.
“If modern technology helps to improve the flavour
but light sounds of activity float from the kitchen. “And
of a dish, then we’ll use it. If not, we don’t. My aim
so I enrolled in business management at Singapore
has always been to make a familiar dish as good as my
Management University. But I wasn’t really studying.”
grandmother would have made it, but in a new way.
Instead, he was just going through the motions. He
There’s no need to explain the technique to anyone. Just
figured that he just needed to get his degree to satisfy
as long as it works.”
his mother and then head for the nearest kitchen. In 2006, Lee was on a student work and travel
If it’s not already clear, nostalgia is a powerful catalyst here. Though Lee’s mother was a constant at his
programme in Washington, D.C. He tried Starbucks,
side in the kitchen in the early years, she came from a
but the money was lousy. Then, he answered an ad for
generation that never wrote down recipes. Her cooking
a kitchen hand at Harry’s Tap Room, a bar and bistro
was based on the memory of taste. And that, says Lee,
at Dulles International Airport. On his first day, a staff
is where restaurants like his became important – to
scheduling issue meant he was put on as line cook, with
document that memory, right down to watching his
no experience.
mother cook, measuring every pinch of spice, every ‘cup
“Watching Jamie Oliver cook on TV is fun,” Lee says. “But that D.C. job showed me how different it is to cook
or so’ of broth, and then trying to reinterpret the result. Lee, though, is not just technically skillful, he is also
professionally. But I loved it. I loved the pressure, the
commercially savvy. He has been in the business long
camaraderie and the noise. I loved the sound of the
enough to realise that the very impetus – nostalgia –
tickets being printed. I worked nine-hour shifts with no
that pushed him to pull apart Peranakan cuisine in the
toilet break. But I loved it,” he repeats.
first place, to produce a new iteration at Candlenut, now
Two years later, Lee graduated and he still hated
requires him to do so again.
the idea of sitting all day in front of a computer. So, he
In other words, evolution is essential, a fact not lost
signed up for a professional cooking course at the local
on industry watchers like Aun Koh, chairman of the Ate
At-Sunrise Global Chef Academy, and in 2010, along
Group, a Singaporean creative and marketing agency
with his now resigned mother, he opened Candlenut in
specializing in food and beverage. “Evolution is vital for
Chinatown. He was barely 26.
a cuisine,” he says. “If not, all we are, all we become, are
“You can’t please everyone,” is one of Lee’s favourite
relics — museum exhibits that are nice for foreigners
refrains. Its origin harks back to those early days. The
to visit and experience - but we lose our relevance
restaurant – a small, unadorned space on the ground
in the global conversations that are driving today’s
floor of a shophouse sandwiched between karaoke bars,
restaurant and culinary scenes. Cuisine, as a major part
a 7-11 and a gay nightclub – was a revelation both for
of Singaporean culture, needs to evolve. But this growth
Lee and the first hesitant wave of diners. From the
must take place in an environment that is led by people
get-go, he experimented. Unrestrained by rules and
who understand our roots, our history, the taste, the
tradition, and guided mostly by taste and memory, he
techniques, and the circumstances that created the
freestyled in a way that offended some traditionalists
dishes that have been rooted in our unconscious.”
who did not care for his buah keluak ice cream. Buah keluak, the titular candlenut, has a chocolatey,
“The foundation of Candlenut has always been my mother,” Lee says. Now, even more so. Over the past
earthy, coffee note, and Lee saw no reason why it
few years, he has continued to mature. Increasingly,
couldn’t be incorporated into an ice cream. In the same
he realizes that the tastes and memories encoded in
vein, he has never liked pineapple, and so when it came
his DNA, what his restaurant represents, is precious
to the classic Peranakan pineapple prawn curry, he
- all the kuehs, kueh pie tee, curries, all the flavours
switched out the fruit for coconut and crabmeat. For
of Peranakan cuisine as interpreted by countless
his beef rendang, which classically uses cheap cuts, his
households in unnumbered kitchens.
replacements were short ribs, briskets and lamb-shank.
This vast reservoir, Lee says, needs to be plumbed
He sous-vided pork cheeks for a feathery light texture
and studied. In a way, Candlenut was always a step
that he then grilled and finished with kecap manis. He
ahead, and not always in a good way. In its precocious
cooked with a wok on one side, and a dehydrator on the
ambitions and heady excitement of the early years, it
other.
missed some fundamentals.
But one thing Lee always disliked was to describe his
026
liquid nitrogen, sous vide machines, smokers, the lot.
“She cried,” Lee says. The restaurant is deserted,
“I feel that I must understand better the traditional
cooking as ‘modern’, though he reluctantly went along
Peranakan style of cooking. There is a reason why dishes
with it, aware, perhaps, of its power as a marketing tool.
were always cooked a certain way, but what is it? Why
This despite the fact that his kitchen was fully stocked
is the chicken for ayam buah keluak cut that way and
with the kind of equipment one normally associates
cooked for that period of time? How much oil should
with the likes of Heston Blumenthal and Ferran Adria:
go into cooking rempah? And if I adjust the ratio of
Candlenut
027
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lemongrass, how does that affect the taste? Why does gula Melaka taste
grandmother would recognise and hopefully approve of; each capturing
different in different areas of Malaysia? It’s important to keep asking
the arcana of generations of domestic science in a way that will attract a
‘why?’ I don’t think it’s good enough to say ‘That’s just how it’s done.’”
new generation of devotees to Candlenut. “The menu will contain what
Not surprisingly for a traditional cuisine which is almost always based
most importantly, a story. I’ve realised that I need to cook food that I
on these questions and no definitive answers. It is why in 2018, Lee
love and with what I grew up with, which was essentially rice, curry and
is shifting the focus of Candlenut. No longer will it be associated with
sambal.”
‘modern Peranakan cuisine’. In this new world that he is creating, it will be just ‘Peranakan cuisine’. He and his team are going back to fundamentals with the goal to
Meanwhile, the hokey adage that ‘if you build it, they will come’ applies to Candlenut and its new Como Dempsey digs, to which it moved in late 2016. The high-ceilinged dining room, converted from
distil, if that is even possible, the essence and rationale of flavours. The
a mid-century colonial army barrack and decorated with giant straw
timeframe for the project is eight years, ambitious by any yardstick, but
lamps and light antique touches by the Italian designer Paola Navone, is
then Lee comes from a tradition that holds that anything worth doing
usually packed each night. The crowd tends to be youthful, among them
takes time. “This can’t be done at speed. It must be done with focus.”
Instagramming millennials, dating couples and a smattering of curious
His pastry chef is researching onde-onde, a classic dessert of pillowy rice-flour balls flavoured with pandan and coconut, relentlessly experimenting to find the right ratio, liquid and skin. Incredibly, it’s a
tourists. The older set is still reserving judgment on this upstart, but even that demographic is changing. In the kitchen, Lee mére is no longer a physical presence although, of
six-month project. Another dish in the works is an omelette made with
course, her personality permeates every aspect. “It’s better that there is
chinchalok, an intensely fragrant shrimp paste. Till now, Lee has used a
a separation of personalities,” Lee observes with a wry smile. Besides, it
bottled version, but moving forward, he is fermenting his own batch.
seems she has bigger fish to fry. A few years after Candlenut opened in
In this way, dish by dish, he is reinventing his tasting menu. “It will literally just be a taste of each dish. It doesn’t matter if you like or don’t like something because it will be just a single mouthful. One bite and it’s done. You wash it down with wine and move onto the next one.” This new direction gives Lee a chance to develop a multitude of new recipes, each distilled from a specific dish that any Peranakan
028
I’ve learnt and what I like to eat,” Lee says. “It will have depth and,
on oral tradition, there is, as Lee points out, very little information
its first Chinatown location, she was recruited by Christina Ong to be her personal chef, so it’s all worked out for everyone. Besides, these days, Lee, as he trawls through the wet markets for grey peppercorns, salted coconut and wingbeans for that evening’s menu, is a contented man. He’s young and ambitious. Business is good. He has a Michelin-star and “my mother is no longer crying.”
SERVICE
The Black Sheep of Design Founder of design studio Blacksheep, Tim Mutton talks disrupting, the need for change and why hotels need to catch up.
Words: Harry McKinley
A
s the founder of a studio called Blacksheep, it
“I just do not like the idea of using your surname to
somewhat stands to reason that Tim Mutton
name a practice after yourself. I think it’s really selfish,”
wouldn’t quite fit the old archetype of a designer.
he explains. “I never wanted to call it Mutton Interiors,
He doesn’t speak about his work in hallowed
because that sounds awful. But if it were that, clients are
terms and eschews the more lofty language that can
always going to be asking for me, and it’s not about me. If
sometimes pervade the industry. You might call him
I’m going to have a studio it should be about everyone and a
unfiltered even, dropping, as he does, swearwords liberally
particular way of thinking.”
into conversation and seemingly unafraid to call out the industry on what he believes to be irksome practices. Since establishing Blacksheep in 2002, Mutton has
had little to do with interiors. He was kicked out of school
increasingly been recognised as an authority on F&B, and
early, finding traditional learning difficult and spending
the studio has worked with the likes of Mandarin Oriental
more time “drawing and dreaming” than paying attention.
Hotel Group, Qbic Hotels, and Fairmont Hotels and
At 17, freed from the shackles of academia, his first job was
Resorts on large scale bar and restaurant projects – not to
working in a kitchen loading a dishwasher. When someone
mention high street stalwarts such as Wagamamas, Five
called in sick he got the opportunity to work behind the bar.
Guys and BrewDog. Mutton describes Blacksheep as a multidisciplinary
“I loved it for loads of reasons,” he recalls, drawing a connection, even now, to his design work. “Most creative
studio, and indeed its team don’t just craft a pretty
people are showmen. We like people and we like giving.
picture for diners, but help to develop concepts and realise
I think good designers have that quality. It was my first
them; everything from the menus to the branding, client
taste of hospitality and I thrived in that environment. It
depending. And the team is something that is important for
taught me a lot of simple lessons. One is if you’re having a
Mutton, who is quick to highlight that the studio’s work is
good day, you get good tips, and if you’re having a bad day,
a group effort. It’s a philosophy that partly informed the
you don’t. And I think that’s influenced how I work on the
name Blacksheep – that, and a desire to avoid one of his
culture at Blacksheep.”
foremost pet hates: self-titled companies.
030
Mutton didn’t grow up expecting to enter the world of design. In his late teens and early twenties his ambitions
In his early twenties Mutton travelled, heading to Greece
SERVICE
Mandarin Oriental, Prague
“I just do not like the idea of using your surname to name a practice after yourself. I think it’s really selfish”
from location to location part and parcel of Mutton’s upbringing – and in an effort to spare herself any further dinner party blushes, Mutton’s mother had already researched options that would save her son from a life of drinks pouring. There was a creative foundation course in Southampton, a two year BTEC. Interviews were in a month and she had pulled together some of his drawings. He added to them photos taken in Greece – “mainly while drunk” – and went along on the off chance someone may see potential.
with the goal of emulating Carl Cox, who was earning “loads of money.”
tutor told me that they had queues of people fresh out of school who
didn’t have a very good musical ear. When he did return to the UK, he
wanted to be on the course. They wanted to give me a chance, but on the
quickly found that his rootless lifestyle was a source of deep discomfort
condition that I apply myself. So I started the course and, of course, I
for his parents – staunchly middle class suburbanites who couldn’t bear
didn’t apply myself, I was the comedian.”
the thought of telling friends at dinner parties that their son worked at a bar. Something had to be done. “My father, who was a military guy, made it clear that things
Towards the end of the first year he was pulled aside and sternly told that there was a good chance he would be asked to leave. “However, the tutor said that if I made an effort I could do really well. I’d never
couldn’t continue as they were and that is was causing problems
had that kind of encouragement from somebody in an educational
between he and my mother,” says Mutton, part tongue in cheek. His
establishment before. In my academic experience I was used to people
father’s first suggestion was that Mutton follow in his footsteps, but
telling me I was thick,” he explains. Although it seems, perhaps, like
not enamoured with the notion of a career in uniform, his father quickly
a small gesture, it was anything but for Mutton. It marked a turning
followed it up with the idea of an apprenticeship. “I’d tried roofing and
point in his attitude to study and shaped how he thought about
carpentry, and there wasn’t an apprenticeship out there that I wanted
his future career. He went on to study interior design at Middlesex
to do. The only option left was going to college, but I’d left school with
University, arriving with no idea how to use a scale ruler, and
art as my only qualification.”
graduating with a 1st. “I’d found my rhythm in something and I found
The family had recently moved to Salisbury from Scotland – bouncing
032
“I got the interview,” Mutton says, almost still surprised. “The
He imagined a career as an international DJ, but now acknowledges he
a creative community,” he says.
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TAF-17-031_ANZ_236x275+3_RZ.indd 1
06.12.17 12:51
MOKKI, The Ritz-Carlton, Astana
His first placement in industry was a disaster. He found himself
forge his own path, he would have to start his own business, which
working for “a mad Geordie bloke in an attic in Farringdon. He used
he did – fuelled by “angst and hunger” and with no semblance of a
to shout at everybody and would pick stuff up and throw it at you.
business plan.
I remember going in and there wasn’t a computer in sight. He was
“and I waited for the phone to ring. Of course, nothing happened. So
only guy that turned up in Farringdon wearing a suit, even in the 90s,”
many people operate freelance but people leave school with no idea how
Mutton recalls, with a laugh.
to operate like a mini business. It just so happened that my partner at the
During his last week on the job, so to speak, he went from his nightmare gig to interview for his dream one: at Conran and Partners,
time, Jo [Sampson], knew someone in PR who was aware we’d set up.” Blacksheep’s first project wasn’t a restaurant or bar, but a fashion
suit and all. “They thought I was an auditor,” he jokes. “They couldn’t
store. The client was the notorious Mazzilli family, perhaps still most
believe I was there for a junior design position. Thankfully, I managed to
known for their exceptionally expensive Kings Road store, Voyage,
blag the job. Or they pitied me. I wasn’t there a great amount of time, but
that championed the eclectic aesthetic of the late 90s and from which
the thing I got from working with Terence during that period was that we
Madonna and Naomi Campbell were both turned away. Mutton would
were doing all of the restaurant work. Coming from having worked at a
head up the design of a Conduit Street branch, getting his hands dirty
bar, to now designing them, was bonkers. The 90s were mental.”
onsite peeling wallpaper and using a blowtorch on the furniture. It was a
Eventually Mutton grew weary of working for others and of one-
baptism of fire for the infant studio, but it got them noticed. A nightclub
sided staff reviews to “discuss salaries that had already been decided.”
project from the former owners of Café de Paris followed and Blacksheep
His plan was to cross the Atlantic and work in San Francisco, from
subsequently steamed head long into F&B design, picking up work from
where he’s always gleaned much inspiration. “Creative people can be
international hotel groups and standalone bars and restaurants alike.
reactionary like that.”
But it was during the studio’s formative years that Mutton realised
Then 9/11 happened and the world changed. The US became a less
034
“I sold my car and bought two PCs and a telephone,” Mutton says,
ferociously against technology. He even made me wear a suit. I was the
design alone was insufficient to deliver for his clients. If he wanted to
enticing, less welcoming prospect. Six months off and Mutton had
provide a service that connected with his philosophy of what Blacksheep
had his fill of reading newspapers and trips to the park. Standing at
should be, he wanted to be involved with both the big picture and the
Willesden Green Tube station one day he realised that if he wanted to
smallest detail.
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“I had a choice in life where I could either just design, and be really great at that - but it wasn’t what I felt was necessary for me – or I could look at a different dialogue and approach,” he says. “I knew I wouldn’t be satisfied fulfilling just one role, and I feel like designers are pigeon holed. We have to take greater responsibility for what we do. Design affects everything. Everything that goes into a restaurant has been
“A lot of clients ask me what it is that I do, and I’ve come to the conclusion that we are simply translators. We just allow them to communicate in a more powerful way”
chosen and someone has spent money on it, and it should lend itself to the business. “Running restaurants is a really difficult trade. The margins are not brilliant and so there’s a responsibility for designers, because for us to offer support we need teams that work in a multi-disciplinary way.” Today, Mutton prides himself on having assembled a team that traverses backgrounds and skillsets and which works to deliver “the right strategic outcome for a business or owner.” “I’ve been asked by a client what to call a venue and, being the early
is done well, it will add to the room rate and add value to the property.
days, I didn’t have an answer,” Mutton explains. “But the studio grew
Also, when working with hotels it’s worth pushing them away from
to be more involved. We once designed a menu for a client, without a
strict processes and ideas, even if they’ve spent years developing them.
fee. He put it back into the business and it had a much more measurable
Suggest changing the buffet and some operators are aghast, because
impact than all of the work I’d done on the interiors.”
they’ve spent so much time training the staff in a particular way of
Blacksheep’s clients now come to the studio because they
doing things, but it might not be what is best for now. An example is
“desperately want to stand out,” something increasingly difficult in
calling something an, ‘all-day-dining space’. They might as well call it
an age of globalised design and savvy guests. It means that Mutton has
a ‘breakfast room’ and put it in the basement. Luckily, more hotels are
avoided developing anything that may resemble a ‘house style’, and
realising they need F&B specialists.”
instead believes in constant change. “There’s a lot of derivative design.
In the pipeline are four resorts in Costa Smeralda, Sardinia – 10 F&B
You go on the British high street today and most of it is terrible,”
outlets. While details are still under wraps, Mutton explains that the
he says. “There’s a lot of copying. I want to approach projects with
project is with a well-known global group and a “big owner”.
intelligence and insight and if I try to replicate what Blacksheep has done before, where’s my integrity?” When it comes to F&B in hotels, Mutton has witnessed first hand
“I was totally sold when I got off the plane and smelt the rosemary. However, a lot of the F&B only works for two months of the year – July and August. So how do you sweat the asset beyond that period? These
the shift in tack. We’re having lunch at London’s Ace Hotel, which
are the kinds of problems I love to try and find the right solution for,”
is perhaps a good example of how hotels have evolved their offer to
he says. “Thankfully I have quite a commercial team and you just have
accommodate the modern urbanite and global travellers. Lobbies that
to unpick which outlets will work because of the relationship they have
double as cafés, restaurants that are also workspaces and bars that
with their locality. One is a short drive from the hotel but not in the
are neighbourhood destinations in their own right, are increasingly
hotel. So it’s interesting because you’re changing the guest expectations
ubiquitous. But for Mutton, the industry as a whole still has a long way
as they’re not having to go through a resort and they don’t have those
to go to break with old ideas.
associations of over-priced, but not very good, hotel restaurants.”
“Yes there are new kids on the block showing others how to do it,
In juggling projects that have included a cooking library with Hyundai;
but the problem with the hotel industry is that it gets very room driven.
independent restaurants, high street chains and, of course, hotels,
It’s all about RevPAR. Then operators realise they have to feed their
Mutton has learnt a few salient lessons along the way – not to develop
guests, so they give them a naff buffet and send them on their way,”
F&B across multiple levels, because “you’ll get people into the first floor
he says. “The other problem with hotels is they don’t retain their staff,
and that’s it”; not to chase what’s cool, because “by the time a hotel
which is core to a successful business, and that’s where hotels can look
restaurant opens four or five years after the start of the project, it isn’t
to independent restaurants to understand building a culture instead of
cool anymore”; and that market research is often a waste of time. “I get
thinking it’s paint by numbers.”
these massive market research documents, particularly from the hotel
Blacksheep worked on the F&B at the sumptuous Mandarin Oriental
world. There is no magic wand and I’m not the guy behind the curtain.
Prague, bringing to life a fine dining restaurant and bar, as well as a
The best way to come up with a concept is by spending time with the
lounge and terrace, as well as recently developing the restaurant, bakery
team. If the team can’t flip a burger, don’t do a burger restaurant. It’s
and food retail area for The Ritz-Carlton Astana. In appearance, these
not about being authentic - such an overused word - it’s about having
kinds of venues are an exercise in sophisticated restraint, but as well
integrity. Design has to look good, but beyond that it has to work well.”
as garnering the studio praise, the projects reinforced Mutton’s idea of what it takes to successfully navigate working with a global hotel group. “Ultimately the hotel is owned by someone. That owner pays the
But perhaps the greatest lesson Mutton has learnt is about his place in the industry. Setting out to change the dialogue, to interfere and disrupt, he’s come to the conclusion that his role, and the role of his studio, is
bills and has a say on the majority of everything that goes on within it.
ultimately to act as a conduit. “A lot of clients ask me what it is that I
You have to marry the relationship between the brand and the owner
do, and I’ve come to the conclusion that we are simply translators. We
successfully,” he explains. “You have to communicate that if the F&B
just allow them to communicate in a more powerful way.”
035
Tomorrow’s Restaurant World Next-gen tech means virtual tabletops, menus in the cloud and creative social media strategies. The cyber battle is on as smart hoteliers and restaurateurs compete to engage with digitally savvy audiences.
Words: Renate Ruge
Staying ahead of the curve in today’s digital world while running
a massive 80% of what we see. In comparison, it’s estimated we
your business is demanding. So what’s the best recipe to future-
retain just 20 per cent of what we read, making the visual platform
proof yours?
Instagram, with its 700 million monthly users, a powerful tool
Following the seismic surge in social media use, devising a
for marketers.
strategy to garner bookings by creating a buzz around a brand
According to Laura Nolte, Brand Manager of Sir Hotels, the
is key. Yet for many consumer-facing operations, this crucial
Instagram secret lies in its simplicity. Customising Instagram’s
ability still remains an unconquered frontier, as a tangible return
signature nine-square grid layout with graphics and colour
on investment is difficult to measure.
coding, Sir Hotels introduce city travel guides with ‘insider’
In a fast-moving landscape the plethora of platforms continues
recommendations.
to transform how people interact with brands and new ideas criss-
“We’re adding another layer of interest to the guest experience,
cross cultural and geographical divides in seconds. Harnessed in
creating something that makes incredible memories not just on
the right way, business operators converse directly with savvy
property but by taking guests out and about in the city,” Nolte
consumers whose smart phones are permanently in the palm of
explains. “Instagram has a geo-function whereby you can zoom-
their hands. This level of continual connectedness, supported by
in to find locally recommended hot spots instantly. It’s the most
pioneering technologies, presents amazing opportunities, where
used channel with our audience and has become ubiquitous with
digital technology can tap in to all aspects of a customer journey.
everyday life.
It also makes the voice of the consumer a force to be reckoned
“The stats are staggering as to how much time people spend on
with like never before.
Instagram and it’s not something that might become obsolete like Tumbler or dated like Facebook. Its wonderful simplicity
A picture paints a thousand words Our brains process images 60,000 times faster than text and store
036
forces restraint. “As there’s no direct way to measure the response, it’s
SERVICE
037
SERVICE
from PWC agrees. On hotels delivering in a
Empowering punters to take control while
digital age, he says, “The customer experience
improving turnaround times on tables is Daniel
becomes an opportunity to grow revenue. Those
Potter, an industry leader in projection-based
who really understand who the customers are,
restaurant ordering, and founder of inamo, an
what they want and what drives their buying
interactive London restaurant chain serving
decision, have a huge advantage.”
pan-Asian cuisine. Projections appear on tables
If the hospitality industry is slow to adopt
where diners set the mood, play retro games
new technologies, Potter says this is often with
or take a peek in the kitchen with live chef-
good reason, “If you’re a restaurant manager
cam feed. Assigned a table and a tablet, guests
with 1001 things to deal with the last thing you
explore the onscreen menu and tap on a dish that
need is technology not functioning properly,
appeals. Simply push a button to place an order,
so it’s our job as a supplier is to offer robust
before pressing ‘get bill’ to save flagging down
solutions that take minimum effort to install.
important that people are talking about us. It’s
a waiter. Increased speed of service means food
Technology should help not add to problems.”
about a collective awareness – people might
gets out quicker. Typically 3-4% of his guests
If the future relies on staying connected,
share if they came to the hotel and enjoyed a great
leave a review on-site using the tablets, with
dead spots in hotels are a no-no, only serving
meal or a book reading. Whether it’s a service or
positive notes about the food or raving about
to raise guests’ blood pressure according to
aesthetic element that pleases and feels familiar,
the technology.
tech company Ruckus - which delivers smart
it translates from one hotel to the next.”
“I think the whole industry will go this way
solutions to a staggering 86% of the luxury hotel
Sir Hotels saw a bump of interest on its main
[paperless] but it is just a question of timeframe.
segment and 70% of the hospitality industry
Instagram account and 1000 followers quickly
It might take 20 or 30 years but I find it hard to
globally. Wi-Fi woes result in 83% of guests
grew to 6000, though Nolte says that chasing
imagine anything otherwise. Firstly, there’s the
lodging complaints. So with its promise of a
followers is not the main game.
data capture and incredibly valuable feedback.
seamless Wi-Fi service, Steve Johnson, Regional
“Our feedback tells us guests love the guides
Beyond that, tablets and phones get cheaper
Director, Northern Europe, from Ruckus believes
and we plan to connect people to interesting
every year while paper gets more expensive,
the industry will lose out if the digital experience
local characters. We target a certain group of
and of course is less environmentally friendly.
it delivers is not improved.
curious and creative people. For upcoming
There’s also efficiency savings to be made
“You can invest all you want in snazzy bars
generations, many young people want to
and the entertainment value to the customer.
and fancy restaurants,.but if your guests can’t
find new or cool places and then show their
Tracking the customer journey from website
get a strong, consistent wireless connection –
experiences off on social media, so it’s also
visit to ordering, eating the meal and following
for all their devices and multimedia applications,
about social currency. Stay with us and we’ll
up with an offer is where the industry is going”
everywhere on your property – they won’t be
In his experience 15-20% of people will
coming back. We believe a solid foundation is
Tapping in to a similarly social mood is
download an app in-venue, whereas if a tablet
critical to the future success of your hotel’s
Shangri-La’s Hotel Jen, whose latest innovation
with the app installed is provided, almost all
technology strategy. Having your network ready
is ‘living’ interactive online maps, called New
guests will make use of it. Potter blames app
for 5GHz and 802.11ac, and understanding the
Light, that continuously aggregate data from
fatigue. “If you always downloaded the latest
value of access points (APs) are some examples
social check-ins and selected hashtags, and
loyalty programme, you’d end up with 100
of Wi-Fi readiness. Your network should be
encourage guests to go exploring. Marisa
restaurant apps on your phone. People have a
able to handle today’s demands and scale up
Aranha, Vice President of Sales and Marketing
limit as to how much they store locally opposed
to support future requirement, particularly in
says, “Hotel Jen caters to urban adventurers who
to accessing it at will.”
social F&B spaces.”
help you to find those things”.
are passionate about discovering new places,
Tailoring the restaurant experience around the
Stay tuned, for as T.S. Eliot famously said,
cultures and experiences. Through this new
individual - based on data capture - means you
“Only those who will risk going too far can
program, we want to provide a new perspective
know about guests’ allergies and birthdays, but
possibly know how far one can go.”
for busy business travellers, unabashed night
getting the fundamentals right is still your bread
owls and curious families through curated
and butter, Potter maintains “If you’re scoring
insider insights.”
highly on service, food and ambiance, you can
Social Stats
While you may have a team able to ace
achieve great things. Ultimately customers want
• Facebook: 1.94 billion monthly active users,
social media in-house, other companies are
to feel like kings and queens and technology can
1.28 billion daily users
investing and outsourcing to make the most of
facilitate that. A waiter might say to a guest, ‘It’s
• Instagram: over 700 million monthly users,
cutting-edge technologies. Like leading luxury
fantastic to see you again. Would you like to try
400 million daily users
hospitality group, Corbin & King, which recently
another bottle of the lovely wine you sampled
• Twitter: 317 million monthly active users, 500
appointed the digital agency Verb to rebuild its
last time?’ Overall there’s less to think about and
million tweets sent daily
online properties and deliver immersive digital
more time to enjoy the dining experience with
• Youtube: over 1 billion users, second largest
experiences alongside concise, ROI-driven
one’s friends.”
search engine
digital marketing.
038
Ordering for the future
Carlo Gagliardi, Strategy Consulting Partner
• Pinterest: 150 million active users
Specials
“It has been so enlightening and, like any journey, we’ve learnt a great deal on the way. In terms of square footage optimisation it is a demonstration of how to purpose a space, without compromising.” The Pilgrm’s Jason Catifeoglou on the journey to create a hotel.
Elegant textiles for hospitality
www.ingridlesagecreations.com
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Photography: Read McKendree
The Halyard Sound View, Greenport
Less than 100 miles from New York City, the waterfront Sound View hotel
Heading up the F&B programme is James Beard Award-winning chef,
lies on a quarter mile of private beach in Greenport – an historic town that
Galen Zamarra, chef and owner of the acclaimed Mas (farmhouse) in New
has become the epicentre of a renaissance along the North Fork of Long
York City. Zamarra’s first project outside of the city, The Halyard features
Island’s 30 miles of farmland, vineyards and beaches.
his signature fusing of French and American classicism and a commitment
The newly renovated property from Eagle Point Hotel Partners was designed by Brooklyn-based Studio Tack and intended to hark back to the golden age of motels, with flourishes of New England modernism and nautical undertones.
to supporting the local community – from farmers and foragers to growers and fishermen. In its design, The Halyard channels a maritime attitude, with classic captain’s chairs, family-style wooden tables and an exposed ceiling truss
The hotel features an expansive seafood restaurant, The Halyard,
that welcomes an abundance of light. A sprawling outdoor deck that looks
that focuses on fresh produce, seafood and wine from the North Fork
over the Long Island Sound completes the space and capitalises upon the
and Atlantic seaboard, informing a menu intended to evoke childhood
property’s shore side location.
nostalgia. Items include: buckets of fried chicken, whole steamed lobster, moules au pistou and bouillabaisse.
www.thehalyardgreenport.com
IN A BITE Covers: 150 (118 inside, 8 bar, 24 outside deck) • Owner: Eagle Point Hotel Partners • Operator: Filament Hospitality • Interior Design: Studio Tack Executive Chef: Galen Zamarra
041
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The Perception W London
The 192-room W London has recently undergone an extensive
dynamic background is set to inject fresh energy into central London’s
refurbishment, with the W Lounge, Library and Room 913 seeing
already diverse food offering, challenging the conventional codes of
interiors entirely redesigned to encompass an urban edge and glamour
luxury hotel dining with remixes of Mediterranean, Australian and
in-keeping with the Soho locale.
modern-European flavours
Rob Wagemans’ Concrete spearheaded the refurbishment, addressing
Focusing on inventive, clean cocktails with fresh ingredients, Head
guestrooms, public areas and one of the hotel’s bars, The Perception.
Barman Ulises Guerreo Galvez has also created an innovative menu of
Known for pushing the boundaries and an unconventional approach,
modern mélanges including the Lady Marmalade Mojito and Ginger
Wagemans used the W brand and London’s shared love for fashion and
Spice, a fiery mixture of Patron Silver Tequila, Cointreau, framboise
music as his main inspiration and narrative for the bold interiors.
liqueur, chilli and ginger.
Elsewhere the bar has launched a unique culinary programme, which
Offering the option of detox or retox, the Sunday brunch serving caters
invites some of the capital’s most playful and renowned talents to create
to the diversity of the staying guest – bouncing from healthy mixes with
a dinner menu combining their gastronomic identity with the attitude
the likes of smashed avocado and eggs benedict to an indulgent dessert
of W Hotels.
stage starring matcha and toffee panna cotta and Desert Rose gateau.
Kicking off the programme is East London chef Magnus Reid, owner of Shoreditch haunt, C.R.E.A.M and Hackney favourite, Legs. Reid’s
www.thehalyardgreenport.com
IN A BITE Covers: 144 • Owner: Marriott International • Operator: Marriott International, W Hotels Worldwide • Interior Design: Concrete • Head Bartender: Ulises Guerrero Galvez • Executive Chef: Patricio Tapia Cuevas • Tableware: RAK • Glassware: Luigi Bormioli
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FLATWARE • STEAK KNIVES • HOLLOWARE • CHAFERS • BUFFETWARE
www.walcostainless.com
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Morimoto Mondrian Doha
Embodying Arabian culture through a modern lens, Morimoto at Mondrian
and meetings. Evocative details continue throughout the hotel, reflecting
Doha is billed as a bridge between culinary traditions. Inspired by ancient
local patterns through Arabian writing, historic souks and falcons, with
Japan and a key landmark in the city of Nara, the space is adorned with
ornate stained glass and intricate mosaic tiling inspiring visitors with a
energetic and graceful artworks by Japanese painter Hiroshi Senju.
sense of nostalgia.
“Many themes are layered in the hotel,” says Marcel Wanders, who
Located in Doha’s West Bay Lagoon, Morimoto the first restaurant
headed-up the interiors of the project. His signature design language
by Chef Masaharu Morimoto to open in the Middle East, who oversees a
creates a multi-layered sensory experience, allowing guests to form a
menu combining western and Japanese ingredients. While Middle Eastern
collection of woven stories. “With each individual space telling its own
cuisine is at the heart of the hotel’s offering, Mondrian Doha is a culinary
tale, guests have many different experiences, and therefore, weave for
emporium, with Wolfgang Puck bringing his concept Cut by Wolfgang
themselves a volume of stories to share.”
Puck, as well as other offerings including rustic burger joint Hudson Tavern
Bespoke designs span the restaurant, from a 16-seat sushi bar to rose-
and New York’s renowned Magnolia Bakery.
gold studded columns that exude luxury, while sophisticated mirror doors hide two private interlinking dining rooms for exclusive dinners
www.mondriandoha.com
IN A BITE Covers: 186 • Operator: sbe • Interior Design: Yasumichi Morita • Architecture: Glamorous Inc. • Tableware: Korin • Glassware: Bauscher, Spiegelau, Riedel • Cutlery: Oneida
044
Creating Hospitality
Anmut Samarah Enchanting design with a touch of ornament
Villeroy & Boch S.à .r.l. Hotel & Restaurant 330, rue de Rollingergrund 2441 Luxembourg Tel.: + (352) 46 82 11 ¡ Fax: + (352) 46 90 22 E-mail: info.hr@villeroy-boch.com www.villeroy-boch.com/hospitality
VLH XXXXX_Supper_Mag_236x275mm_plus3_RZ.indd 1
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Photography: Eric Laignel
Seafood Bar The Breakers, Palm Beach
Adam D. Tihany returned to The Breakers in Palm Beach for the redesign
18 bar stools, three horseshoe banquette seating arrangements and high
of the hotel’s Seafood Bar, acting as a design consultant to Peacock +
top communal table seating. The aquarium-topped bar now stands
Lewis Architects. With a nautical theme, the space features sconce and
at standard bar height and features wood and rattan materials on the
pendant lighting reminiscent of buoys, lively white terrazzo flooring inlaid
counter front. The ocean view windows behind the bar draw attention
with bronze bubble detailing and a new marble topped exhibition kitchen,
to the flanking nautical statues poised on either side of the impressive
which provides the focal point of the restaurant. A neutral colour palette
bottle display.
is brought to life with deep blue and yellow accents, while throughout
Beyond the aesthetic, Seafood Bar continues its commitment to fresh
the main dining room, structural columns curve up to the barrel-vaulted
produce and Executive Chef Anthony Sicignano presides over a menu
ceiling, providing ideal placements for the large industrial caged light
that traverses the seafood staples, from lobster tails and fish tacos to
fixtures. The cherry and maple striped wood flooring and a bespoke
crab cakes and scallops.
aquarium high top communal table continue the luxury yacht reference. The restaurant’s bar area, now distinguished by ceiling height, features
www.thebreakers.com
IN A BITE Covers: 110 • Operator: The Breakers Palm Beach • Interior Design: Tihany Design • Architecture: Peacock + Lewis Architects • Tableware: Fortessa, Oneida • Glassware: Anchor Hocking • Cutlery: Oneida • Menu Design: Mirko Ilic Design
046
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STARTERS xxx
Photography: Colin Faulkner
Drake Commissary Drake Hotel, Toronto
The combined vision of corporate Executive Chef Ted Corrado, Commissary
Commissary, focused on fresh, seasonal and local ingredients – the now
Chef Jonas Grupiljonas, hotelier Jeff Stober and the team behind Toronto’s
expected offer for the current generation of food culture followers – and
The Drake Hotel, the Drake Commissary concept breaks the mould of
with a health-conscious bent, whilst also allowing room for indulgence.
traditional hotel F&B by transforming the brand’s food production facility
Innovative flavour combinations meet time-honoured techniques such as
into an early morning to late night eatery, bakery, bar and larder.
fermentation, pickling, smoking and slow roasting.
Designed by John Tong and his team at +tongtong, Drake Commissary
“This project was so much fun to conceive, because it allowed us to
cultivates an atmosphere that blends history and modernity. The visual
push the ‘to be expected’ restaurant model,” says Stober. “It’s the baking
narrative is inspired by a transitional period in modern design and
kitchen you’ve always wanted to see, the cafeteria you remember as a kid,
architecture when innovations in production brought efficiencies and
a cultural hub you’ll love to hang out at and the TV room you were never
new possibilities – such as the rare mid-century prefab houses by French
allowed to eat in. And we get to play host.”
designer, Jean Prouvé and the work of Charles and Ray Eames. Together Corrado and Grupiljonas created a fast-casual menu for Drake
www.drakecommissary.ca
IN A BITE Covers: 140 (seated dining area), 40 (patio) • Owner: Jeff Stober, Drake Hotel Properties • Operator: Drake Hotel Properties • Interior Design: +tongtong • Executive Chef: Ted Corrado • Commissary Chef: Jonas Grupiljonas • Art Curator: Mia Nielsen • Branding: Megan Oldfield, Field Design Office Kitchen Consultant: Paula Hicks Food Service Design • Tableware: Degrenne • Cutlery: Albert Matisse
048
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‘Caged’ Cinder Toffee
The Science of Plants Our collaboration with porcelain experts Hering Berlin, vegan restaurant The Allotment and photographer Sven Eselgroth is a forensic examination of the delicate relationship between science, food and the environment, with key natural ingredients referenced by the scientific Latin name of their plant species
SPREAD
Silent Iron Hering Berlin
‘Cocos nucifera’ Coconut chocolate ganache with honeycomb and cinnamon shortbread over tofu cream
‘Cucurbita maxima’ Kabocha Squash
Granat Hering Berlin
‘Beta vulgaris’ Pickled beetroot and chilli chutney
Silent Iron Hering Berlin
Soda Hering Berlin
Hand-made in Germany, Hering Berlin’s ethos is one of precision and artistry, providing a canvas for culinary creations designed to captivate. Vegan dishes by ‘PlantFood PowerChef’ Matthew Nutter come under the microscope against a clinical white backdrop.
‘Cydonia oblonga’ Quince, apple and beetroot Juice
‘Solanum melongena’ Pink peppercorn confit aubergine, oyster mushrooms and pomme puree with cavolo nero
‘Brassica oleracea Lacinato’ Burnt vegetable jus
Granat Hering Berlin
‘Curcuma longa’ Turmeric
‘Anacardium occidentale’ 12 month, fermented blue cashew nut cheese
Blue Silent Hering Berlin
‘Vitis vinifera’ Sweet Bordeaux
‘Brassica oleracea var. capitata F. alba’ White cabbage
Granat Hering Berlin
Blue Silent Hering Berlin
‘Allium cepa’ Smoked onion parfait, pistachio crumb and red cabbage powder
‘Ficus Carica’ Common Fig
‘Beta vulgaris Chioggia’ Candy stripe chioggia and golden Victorian beetroots
‘Pistacia vera’ Pistachio Nuts
‘Agaricus bisporus, Lentinula edodes, Pleurotus ostreatus’ Portabella, shiitake and oyster mushrooms Soda Hering Berlin
Blue Silent Hering Berlin
Soda Hering Berlin
Soda Hering Berlin
Tableware: Hering Berlin www.heringberlin.com Chef: Matthew Nutter, The Allotment, Stockport Glassware: Vera Wang, Wedgwood Table linen: Ingrid Lesage Accessories: Agapanthus Interiors Photography: Sven Eselgroth
‘Camellia sinensis var.sinensis’ Kanuka Indian Darjeeling Black Tea
COUP FINE DINING
FASHION
MADE IN GERMANY
City Mouse Ace Hotel, Chicago
Words: Emma Love
R
andolph Street in Chicago’s West Loop is nicknamed
Creative Director Roman Alonso. “The building is industrial
‘Restaurant Row’ and, with several blocks full of
in feel but rooted in modernism.”
buzzing eateries and bars, it’s immediately obvious
Within the ground floor F&B spaces - the 160-seat
why. Less than five minutes walk away is the Fulton
City Mouse restaurant and bar, plus the lobby lounge -
Market neighbourhood - slightly quieter but with a fast
this is evidenced in the black terrazzo floors and forest
growing foodie reputation. It’s here, opposite the Google
green-stained plywood panelling (informed by van der
offices, that Ace Hotel Group has chosen to open its tenth
Rohe’s buildings at the Illinois Institute of Technology);
outpost and the first in the Midwest. In another first for the
custom-designed furniture by LA-based Michael Boyd; and
group, which usually renovates old buildings, this is a newly
the woven wall hangings by artists Tanya Aquiniga and
constructed glass and concrete space from GREC Architects
Christy Madsen - inspired by Anni and Joseph Albers - that
that references the neighbourhood’s industrial past. The
hang behind the host stand and the reception. Seating in
facade of the former cheese factory that once stood on the
the restaurant is a combination of upholstered plywood
south side of the site still remains.
banquettes and chrome tubing dining chairs; the table tops
LA-based Commune Design (which had already worked on three other Ace hotel properties) was tasked with the
glassware and cutlery are sourced from Steelite USA.
interiors and began by asking the question: if Mies van der
Other F&B outlets consist of the front patio, which has
Rohe were to create a hotel today, what would it look like?
an additional 60-seats and a fire pit, plus the seventh floor
“We decided to tap into Chicago’s history of Mid-century
060
and bar are green Forbo linoleum and brass. The plates,
Waydown bar. “The most important thing for the restaurant
Modern architecture and design, specifically Mies van
was to bring in natural light and make the spaces, which
der Rohe and the Bauhaus,” confirms Commune Design’s
were vast in plan, feel intimate,” continues Alonso. “We
MAIN COURSE
Milk Toast: chocolate, cashew, coconut, stonefruit jam
061
Photography: Spencer Lowell
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MAIN COURSE
wanted it to be timeless, a place where you can dress up or dress down.” It’s a relaxed design ethos that is reflected in the menu itself, which has been devised by chef Jason Vincent, a Chicago native whose Logan Square restaurant, Giant, has garnered numerous accolades. “Ace has a philosophy of partnering with a chef or group that is up-
chicken with cashew rice. The dessert list is mostly American classics from apple pie to whipped cheesecake with blueberries. “There are similarities to Giant in the seasonality of the ingredients, the preparation and finesse behind the food, and the quality,” says Chapman, citing Mick Klug Farms in Michigan as one of the key
and-coming or perhaps only has one or two restaurants, rather than a
suppliers of produce for the kitchen. Just as the Midwest’s influence can
big established brand,” says City Mouse’s Director of Food and Beverage
be tasted in the food, so it is also found on the drinks menu. Many of the
Lucas Chapman. “Both Jason and our Executive Chef Patrick Sheerin,
beers - such as Great Lakes Porter by the Great Lakes Brewing Company
who was previously at Trencherman restaurant in Wicker Park, are on
in Cleveland, Ohio - are from the region.
the cutting edge of the Chicago food scene and very well known. I think
Music is important too, both in the rooms (many come with guitars
that lends itself to a successful restaurant much more than if they were
or a record player and a selection of vinyl sourced from second hand
not from the city.”
shops) and the F&B areas. In the Waydown bar, DJs play seven nights
The menu concept at City Mouse - named after Aesop’s fable The
a week, while downstairs City Mouse has two music playlists curated
Town Mouse and the Country Mouse - is clearly designed to be fun and
by DJ Michael Antonia, and a record player behind the host station
to draw in diners not just from the hotel, but local workers and residents
with a stack of around 1,500 vinyls. “We have a cultural engineer who
too. “Over the past few years brunching has become a real thing in
makes sure the brand is represented well when it comes to music,”
Chicago so we decided to offer brunch seven days a week, to appeal not
says Chapman. “There is everything from The Supremes to offbeat
only to our guests but to the neighbourhood that we’re in. If you want
instrumental stuff. This weekend we had a guest bring down a record
to come in and get pancakes at 2pm in the afternoon, you can,” explains
from his room that he hadn’t had time to play, so we put it on in the
Chapman. “We could price everything a few bucks higher but that’s not
restaurant.”
going to bring our guests back three or four times a week.” Alongside brunch specials such as a smoked salmon and cream cheese
Ace Chicago might be barely six months old - the final F&B offering, an outpost of Stumptown Coffee Roasters only opened in December
pretzel bagel, and a ‘Gas Station Sandwich’ (hash brown, egg, cheese,
- but already it seems to have found its place in this in-flux, foodie
grape jelly, sausage, Michigan grown fruit), there are a handful of salads
neighbourhood. “We want to make the north part of the West Loop a
and a lunch section on the all-day menu: think burger and fries, corn
more attractive area and do good by the city,” concludes Chapman.
and coconut soup with grilled corn relish and a burrata chopped salad
“That comes from approachable pricing, authentic, humble service and
with arugula, cherry tomatoes and crispy prosciutto. The dinner menu
really good food.”
features crowd-pleasing dishes such as handmade tagliatelle with shrimps and chilli butter, skirt steak with sweet corn elotes and smoked
www.acehotel.com/chicago
IN A BITE C220 (dining room, lounge and seasonal patio) • Operator: Ace Hotel • Developer: Sterling Bay • Architecture: GREC Architects • Interior Design: Commune Design • Executive Chef: Pat Sheerin • Beverage Manager: Caitlin Laman • Director of F&B: Lucas Chapman • Tableware and Glassware: Steelite USA • Menu and Uniform Design: Atelier Ace
063
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The Dining Room The Tamburlaine, Cambridge
Words: Caroline Morrish
S
et in the historical city of Cambridge and
spaces. “The hotel had to sit within the city which is
named after the play by Cambridge University
full of history whilst remaining contemporary and
alumnus, Christopher Marlowe, you would be
cutting edge,” explains Bryan O’Sullivan. “The client
forgiven for expecting The Tamburlaine hotel
came to us having already chosen the name, based
to be a period renovation with dark winding halls,
on Christopher Marlowe’s work. Having read various
vaulted ceilings and lots of antique charm. Maybe
passages from the play we were inspired by the
something like Hogwarts with room service. And
Persian references in the story, and wanted to bring
while it does have the vaulted ceilings, and plenty of
together a fusion of old and new Cambridge with lots
charm and character, the latest operation from Irish
of luxurious Middle Eastern elements, whilst giving
hotel operators O’Callaghan Hotel Group is about as
each area its own distinct personality.”
contemporary as they come. The impressive, £50 million, purpose-built hotel
This has been achieved with a liberal use of pattern, colour and different style references that are all
is all steel and glass from the outside and rises
hung together with a unifying palette of quality
up amongst the other new structures in the CB1
materials, rich textures and graphic ceramic details.
development at Cambridge railway station. This
Modern architectural elements are matched with
massive regeneration project has seen £434 million
more traditional English interior stylings such as
invested in the area, updating the station itself, as
paneled walls and rich, chocolate-brown parquet
well as creating a whole new quarter with spaces for
flooring which flows throughout much of the venue,
food retailers, residential apartments and state of the
all ensuring that there is a real sense of character and
art office buildings which are already occupied by the
belonging to the place, despite the age of the building.
likes of Amazon, Microsoft and Deloitte. This makes
After entering the hotel through the dramatic,
it one of the most exciting areas of the city, fast
double height lobby and reception area, guests are
developing its own modern community, as well as
met by an impressively proportioned 150-cover
having a constant stream of commuters and visitors
restaurant which stretches out like the vast dining
passing through, and the perfect choice of location
room of a luxury cruise liner, with an open kitchen
for O’Callaghan Group’s first UK hotel opening.
and two atrium ceilings offering views down onto
With 155 bedrooms, The Tamburlaine is a large-
the space from the guest room floors above. The
scale operation with four dedicated food and beverage
scheme is masculine yet warm, with sumptuous
areas. London-based Bryan O’Sullivan Studio was
leather banquettes and chairs in various rich tones
brought in to work on the look and feel of these
of brown encircling marble tables. As with the look,
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Ham hock terrine, piccalilli, sour dough
the menu for The Dining Room is classic with
mixologist has evolved the cocktail menu from
things a step further, with a tea sommelier
a modern twist. Deputy General Manager Paul
something fairly classic to a more inventive
and Japanese tea ceremony offering both to be
Rhodes says the thread running through the
list. Sustainability is a key theme, he tells us,
introduced soon.
menu is one of “premium items cooked really
and nowhere is this more evident than in the
well,” with ingredients locally sourced where
after dinner tipple, From The Ground Up,
and drink jigsaw is Steam, the café-cum-deli,
possible, and treated simply but with a creative
which uses recycled coffee grounds, mixed
that also acts as a grab and go breakfast stop
use of flavour. The current menu includes the
with vodka, cacao, peppermint tea, espresso
for guests that are checking out but don’t
likes of loin of venison with roast parsnip,
and vanilla as the perfect, yet potent, evening
have time to dine in the restaurant. There’s
chestnut pithivier and garden vegetables and
pick me up.
a slightly more industrial feel here, but with
pork cheek with ham hock bon bon, leeks and crushed swede.
Moving into The Garden Room, adjacent to
The final piece of The Tamburlaine’s food
the same commitment to quality of finish and
the bar and restaurant, the feel is altogether
pattern, with Moorish tiling across the floor
more feminine and delicate with what
and more Deco-style tiles and brass-work
to this space, with its arching marble bar top
O’Sullivan describes as “a tropical, Eastern
running behind the counter - plus a little
and stunning back bar that disappears off
inspired scheme with a colonial feel.” Floral
injection of neon in the signage.
towards the void above. O’Sullivan explains:
and botanical furnishings sit against garden
“We wanted to give this area a real sense of
scenes painted on the walls, while there is lots
the design throughout the communal areas,
drama, so we positioned the bar under the
of fresh foliage, and white rattan furniture
O’Sullivan and the hotel operators have created
vaulted ceiling to create a double height back
mixed with pastel velvet sofas and armchairs.
something rather special – a mismatching
bar.” This has been carefully stocked by Bar
Unsurprisingly Instagrammers have gone mad,
scheme that surprises and delights, whilst
Manager Ash Briggs with the most interesting
not only for the interior, but also the afternoon
remaining refined and in the best of taste. And
spirits from around the world, and some
tea, which delivers architecturally designed
all wrapped up in an atmosphere of relaxed
from closer to home such as award-winning
patisserie, with seasonally changing speciality
luxury and great service.
Cambridge Distillery Gin. A more recent
cakes, served along with Newby Teas. There’s
appointment to the hotel team, the passionate
a tea tasting menu, for those that want to take
The semi-circular bar provides a focal point
With such a fun and eclectic approach to
www.thetamburlaine.co.uk
IN A BITE Covers: 150 • Operator: O’Callaghan Hotel Group • Interior Design: Bryan O’Sullivan Studio • Tableware: Heritage
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Contact: Bernie Drewell +44 (0) 7703311746 www.blenheimpalace.com
The Pilgrm The Pilgrm, London
Words: Harry McKinley
F
or those unfamiliar with London, Paddington must surely conjure images of Isambard
The Pilgrm is the invention of Jason Catifeoglou,
Kingdom Brunel’s grand railway station – all
former partner and general manager of The Zetter
wrought iron and Victorian brick – and evoke
Hotel in Clerkenwell; Andreas Thrasyvoulou, founder
quaint associations with Michael Bond’s famous
of myhotels; and Steph Thrasyvoulou. Working with
plodding bear. A vision of romantic Englishness
design studio 93, together they set out to reconsider
through and through. For Londonders, it’s rather
what a typical hotel looks and feels like, and also
different. Often thought of as the shabbier neighbour
how it functions. The inessential has been stripped
to the likes of affluent Marylebone, Paddington has
away and in its stead is an ethos of efficiency and
a reputation as a warren of dreary bedsits, fast food
the adoption of a lifestyle-centric attitude, for which
joints and sagging townhouses that have gone years
F&B is key. In terms of guest experience, it starts at
without the loving caress of a paintbrush.
the door. At The Pilgm check-in as an entirely online
It’s an increasingly unfair perception, of course, as the area is undoubtedly on the up. The on-going regeneration of Paddington Basin has brought
process and overnighters searching for a reception desk will find only the counter of the café. “We asked ourselves what it would feel like to arrive
a slew of new eateries, a fortnightly street food
at a hotel, but instead of a reception desk you would
market and transformed the canal into a pleasant
step straight into a coffee shop,” says Catifeoglou.
walkway bordered by steely stretches of modern
“The Pilgrm idea was first born in a coffee shop and
office architecture.
whether it’s inspiration, stillness or time spent with
Then there’s The Pilgrm, intended to shake up not just Paddington’s uninspired hotel scene, but that of the capital at large. One only needs to glance from the
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floor café, there’s a sense of design and intent.
friends and family, great coffee shops are the hub of any community or neighbourhood.” As neighbourhood cafés go, The Pilgrm delivers
two-star guesthouse across the street with its peeling
for staying guests and locals alike. A hefty Faema
sills and strip-lit signage to the slick, stylish façade of
machine dribbles high quality espressos and fresh
The Pilgrm to see that it is a new proposition for the
doughnuts are queued up waiting to catch the eye of
neighbourhood. Even from street level, where broad
peckish punters. The hotel collaborated with CRU Kafe
windows afford passers-by a glimpse into the ground
on unique blends, available nowhere else and with
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Photography: Jason Bailey
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bespoke packaging carrying The Pilgrm logo. It’s all
relationship,” says Catifeoglou, when asked about
about brand building, of course, and the same moniker
the nature of providing a fleshed-out food and drinks
graces water bottles available for purchase, which can
offer from such small confines and within such close
be filled and refilled free of charge from the café’s
quarters to visitors. “This was a critical dimension
water fountain. Free water is important to Catifeoglou
and creating a fluid service delivery was paramount to
and something that will remain a permanent fixture.
any decisions. The solution was an open kitchen and
In looks, the café is sturdy and handsome, making
dispense bar that serves as the focal point of the room.
use of original features and complementing them
For us it was a process of thinking about operations
with fixtures sourced from old buildings – among
and how they’re best suited for a specific space. It
them lights that once graced the walls of a hospital.
has been so enlightening and, like any journey, we’ve
The magnificent staircase was brought back to life
learnt a great deal on the way. In terms of square
thanks to hours of painstaking paint stripping and the
footage optimisation it is a demonstration of how to
pleasing, tactile scars of age have been brought to the
purpose a space, without compromising.”
fore with a spit and a polish.
For a lounge that wears multiple hats and functions
A floor up and a more expansive lounge unfolds.
as a dining space, bar, work area and general chill
The heart of The Pilgrm’s F&B operations, it is here
out zone, it is fitting that this ‘multifunctionalism’
that guests can order from a fully-fledged food menu
has filtered down into the details of the design. The
and fade into a vintage leather sofa.
kitchen pass, clad in Verde Guatemalan marble, also
With room for just 40 to 45 covers (depending on a willingness to squeeze up or the general girth of
serves as the dispense station for cocktails. The drinks menu features creations from multiple
guests), the lounge is compact by the standard of
leading bartenders – from Singapore to Dallas and
modern restaurants, but not claustrophobic. Lengthy
Athens – who have loaned their mixes for The
windows look down onto the street and across to the
Pilgrm team to make on the other side of London,
bedrooms of that two-star mentioned previously
in Hackney, and sell by the glass at the bar. It’s an
- teasing them with glimpses of pork belly, wild
inventive model of delivering a drinks offer that feels
mushroom cheese toastie and lentil dhal with grilled
vibrant and imaginative, without the complexity of
mackerel. Considering the accessible price points of
making a cocktail bar work alongside a kitchen, and all
The Pilgrm, it is a lesson, if ever there was one, to
within a veritable shoebox.
research before booking. But at least the F&B spaces are open to all. “We’ve simplified everything about our food
In terms of aesthetics, the lounge, like the rest of the hotel, feels of the moment and discreet - elements such as the hanging greenery and Millenial pink
and drink offering but elevated the quality of what
furnishings being particularly de rigueur. Catifeoglou
we offer,” says Catifeoglou. “The Pilgrm is based
and Steph Thrasyvoulou collaborated with Sheffield-
on journeys and learning. We feel that cooking is a
based studio 93, on the design, and an assortment of
reflection of culture - the differences through cultures
objects, from glove moulds to retro toy cars, adorn
being only ingredients and techniques. With Head
spare surfaces and give a sense of personality - that
Chef Sara Lewis, we’ve brought some of our favourite
of a familair friend. It all makes for a pleasant picture.
ingredients and techniques to Paddington. Our food
But then The Pilgrm is ultimately about more than
menus are made up of a number of small plates with
how agreeable it looks in isolation. That simply this
unique pairings and tasty fusions that challenge
brand of hotel, with an eye to design and a nod to how
convention and expectation.”
the modern guest behaves, is available at a reasonable
Elements that may be considered obstacles at
rate is – for London - a revelation. Likewise, that The
other hotels have, at The Pilgrm, been used to their
Pilgrm’s brand of easy, presentable, Insta-worthy
advantage. The tiny open kitchen, no larger than a
F&B is finding its footing in Paddington is a sign of
typical bathroom, feeds the atmosphere of the lounge,
the tide shift in the district and an indication that, for
as chef, bartender and servers shuffle around each
those in other neighbourhoods, it may just be worth
other – pots spluttering, glasses chinking and the
the journey.
smell of multiple dishes wafting over expectant diners. “The kitchen and lounge required a symbiotic
www.thepilgrm.com
IN A BITE Covers: 40 – 45 • Founder and CEO: Jason Catifeoglou • Co-founder and Developer: Steph Thrasyvoulou Owner: Andreas Thrasyvoulou • Interior Design: 93, Jason Catifeoglou, Steph Thrasyvoulou
071
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Fiskebar The Ritz-Carlton Hotel de la Paix, Geneva
Words: Noga Tarnopolsky
D
espite decades as a global hub, Geneva recoils from any frolicsome, international glitter. By and large, its high-end hotels have not changed in the past half-century and the menus offered at Geneva’s top restaurants have remained predictable and sedate. But now, five
hundred years after the Reformation, in which a young French theologian, John Calvin, transformed Christendom out of Geneva, a group of young European reformers is taking on Geneva’s gastronomic establishment. They are launching their new vision from the very heart of stately, old school Geneva, at the lakeside Hôtel de la Paix, which has been managed by the Ritz-Carlton group since 2015. Fiskebar, at the hotel’s entry-level, can be accessed both from the lobby and, for passers-by, by a pale blue door on the Quai du Mont-Blanc. Opened late 2017, Fiskebar is Geneva’s first Nordic restaurant, dreamed up by Alessio Corda, a young Italian-born graduate of El Bulli, who is refreshingly nonchalant about gastronomic trends and Geneva’s weighty food culture. The jet-setting, markedly not locavore Scandinavian menu (Canadian lobster, fjord trout, North Sea abalone) is served at distinctly different salons. A roomy bright space offers long, high table seating connecting patrons on tall stools, with the kitchen in view. The next room is high-end hygge, with metallic and ceramic elements adorning black tables and rough walls, leather placemats, and enticing duck-egg green accoutrements bringing a luxe countryside quality to the dining experience.
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Mark Bithrey, Director of B3 Designers, led the search
in fir oil and tiny crab beignets in a langoustine
party of designers and foodies who conjured up
béchamel, beguile.
the restaurant’s concept. “This is the first Nordic-
In the formal dining room, vivid green, mossy textures
inspired food concept of its kind in Geneva,” he says,
“reflect the lushness of the Nordic environment,”
“we wanted to entice a wider market, and make the
Bithrey says. Behind a translucent door Fiskebar
restaurant a destination in its own right.”
conceals a space available for private events.
Bithrey and his team wanted the design to
The idea was to make it “as warm as possible and
showcase the restaurant’s concept. “The food is all
as appealing, because we are proposing something
about local, seasonal and organic produce alongside
that has never existed in Geneva, for people who are
the fresh seafood. We wanted to create different
stepping out of the usual track,” says Pierre Lelièvre,
spaces to reflect this alongside contemporary Nordic
another Frenchman and the restaurant’s brisk and
sensibilities,” he says. “By splitting the space into
skilled manager.
two dining experiences - a fine-dining offer for
When entering Fiskebar’s formal dining hall from
the more traditional Genevans, alongside a more
the lake, leaving behind banks and sedans and, all
casual setting – we have provided an approachable
too often, a chill wind, one enters a slate door into
restaurant, opening up the offering to a wider and
a small, boxy foyer, “a glass box wind lobby or a
perhaps younger market.”
lantern,” in Lelièvre’s words, whose “function is to
The public’s exposure to Fiskebar starts at the hotel’s traditional bar/lounge, which posed challenges for the design team: the cylindrical space
hinder the depth of winter. Once guests step through, they can forget they’re in a hotel.” B3 introduced ceiling beams to add a convivial
is protected by architectural conservation laws and
component to the room, and Scandinavian white
its traditional moulding, floorboards and shape could
plank flooring. It creates another world, a bubble
not be touched. B3’s solution was to play with the
of something different off Lake Geneva, that, still,
existing elements, working with Parisian painting
winks at the best of local tradition.
specialist Pierre Clement, to create a soft metallic bronze effect. “We wanted to break the codes of a hotel
In yet another adjoining space, painted bright burnt orange, another young Frenchman has installed his lair. Brittany-born master chocolatier
restaurant,” Candie Clapier, Fiskebar’s energetic,
Philippe Pascoët, a star in Switzerland, has taken up a
French-born PR chief explains. “We wanted to shake
small residence in the lobby, and before succumbing
up the conventions.” The management’s average
and buying lavender or coriander pralines or a crisp,
age is 34.
incomprehensibly crunchy cacao bean delight,
A medley of elaborately spiced Mediterranean
Fiskebar diners are offered end-of-meal treats such
olives are served with original cocktails, some
as champagne truffles and absinthe, pulled out of an
featuring the Swiss elixir absinthe, which is
enormous green glass gourd by a smiling Lelièvre,
produced on-site. Oysters are served with cacao and
who is equipped with a pipette two feet long.
blue cheese. Somehow, it works, exuberantly. The alluring amuse-bouches, like a trout tartar bathed
www.ritzcarlton.com
IN A BITE Covers: 40 • Owner: The Manz Family • Operator: Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company • Interior Design: B3 Designers Executive Chef: Alessio Corda • Tableware: Playground, Wurtz, Serax • Glassware: Riedel, Zweisel, John Jenkins, Spiegelau, LSA • Cutlery: Cutipol, Thiers, Laguiole • Menu Design: Markette
075
Ferris Made Hotel, New York
Words: Alia Akkam
N
ew York’s centrally located NoMad
Zen design, marrying white oak, weathered spruce
neighborhood is in the midst of a stylish,
beams, and hand-painted Japanese tiles, punctuated
modern hotel boom, with design-forward
by candles and vegetation sprouting from flower
pioneers like Ace and NoMad paving the
pots, also courtesy of Studio MAI. “We felt that
way for recent additions, including Life Hotel in
Ferris could provide a more personal, intimate, and
the old Life Magazine headquarters and an outpost
friendly approach to dining than much of what we’ve
of Soho stalwart The James. One such newcomer
experienced around the neighbourhood,” Seich
to the area is Made, the inaugural hotel project
explains. “We wanted to create an environment that
from entrepreneur Sam Gelin of Craft Hospitality,
felt like home, where our guests could feel relaxed
and designed by Los Angeles-based Studio MAI.
and relieved to be back. It’s almost like a secret
Enticingly set back from a street of unremarkable
place to escape to. The menus and the space are both
storefronts, the airy, community-minded retreat
familiar and comfortable, while remaining new and
has 108 guestrooms accentuated with bronze, steel,
exciting at the same time.”
and floor-to-ceiling windows. Those who aren’t
maple exemplifies Made’s social ethos, but the
through the warm, walnut-clad lobby and linger
limestone chef’s counter, offering a mesmerizing
with a cocktail from husband-and-wife bartenders
view into the energetic kitchen helmed by Greg
Jeremy Oertel and Natasha David, or take the stairs to
Proechel, is the most desirable perch. “I hope to
a vibrant meal at seasonal, New American restaurant
bring people enjoyment in many ways. They get to
Ferris below.
see us putting dishes together, seasoning everything
Charles Seich, formerly of Major Food Group - the
076
A communal butcher’s block table fashioned from
sleeping in one of them are just as delighted to walk
before it walks out of the kitchen, then they eat
company behind New York powerhouse restaurants
creative food,” he says. Prior to Ferris, Proechel was
like Carbone and the controversial reboot of the late
the executive chef of Le Turtle, and he also worked
Four Seasons - oversees Made’s food and drink offer,
at Blanca and Eleven Madison Park. Here, the menu
from the all-day coffee shop, Paper, to the Tiki-
channels his devotion to fresh produce through
inspired rooftop bar, Good Behavior. Ferris, however,
dishes that imaginatively pair textures and flavours.
is the star, a destination sought out by Made guests
After ordering an orb of crackling bread, patrons may
and locals alike for both the food and its fashionably
spring for meant-to-be-shared plates of beets with
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Photography: Noah Fecks
black sesame tahini and shaved coconut or
the L’Amie, a mélange of vodka, the French
explore flavours that I like; I’m not confined to
Okinawa sweet potato dressed with pumpkin
apéritif Suze, fennel, ginger, and lime, it
a specific cuisine or style of serving. It has been
mustard and buttermilk, before moving on
amplifies Proechel’s penchant for tinkering
freeing in many respects, and it’s nice being
to charred aubergine jam and rutabaga duck
with straight-from-the-garden ingredients
involved with owners and operators who trust
breast, or roasted artichoke accompanied by
and gets palates revved for what will soon
me and trust my vision. I’m able to express
smoked cabbage and scallion miso.
emerge from the kitchen.
myself here more than I’ve ever been able to in
Particularly popular is the surprising blood
Throughout the evening, diners also revel
any job I’ve ever had.”
sausage strewn with dates and seeds that Seich
in an uplifting ambience fueled by engaging
points out is, “that dish one person at the table
hospitality. It starts with that initial interaction
similar views on guest experience and are both
is interested in and everyone else tags along
with the good-natured hostess, and ends, say,
committed to two important ideals: we are
with the idea. In the end they all comment that
with the small talk-savvy waiter suggesting
open and direct communicators and we treat
it is their favourite. It is one of ours too, so we
an Amaro nightcap, which is ultimately a
every day as an opportunity to get better at
are happy with the response.” Light, charred
reflection of the synergy and conviviality
what we do. Aside from that, he’s incredibly
broccolini, brightened by cashew, Moon Drop
between front and back of the house. “Charles
talented and has a great sense of humour.
grapes, and an unexpected burst of Timur
and I are playful and immature when it comes
It’s important to enjoy being at work. That all
yogurt, also yields frequent orders.
to day to day interactions and how we see a lot
trickles down to our team and to our guests.”
of things, but both extremely mature when it
In tandem with Proechel’s food, this geniality
and David, are an integral complement to
comes to business. I feel that fun side shows
forges an aura of quiet luxury that mirrors
Proechel’s cooking. Consider the vegetal Eau
way more here in the vibe of the space and
Made’s guestrooms.
de Spa, combining mezcal with jalapeno,
food,” says Proechel. “This experience has
carrot, coriander, pineapple, and lime. Like
allowed me to be myself in the kitchen, and
Cocktails, again the handiwork of Oertel
Adds Seich, “Chef and I share a lot of
www.ferrisnyc.com
IN A BITE Covers: 40 • Owner: Sam Gellin • Interior Design: Studio Mai • Executive Chef: Greg Proechel • Tableware: Kinto, Korin, Sambonet, CB2, Rene Ozorio Glassware: Kinto, Urban Bar • Cutlery: Sambonet, Opinel
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SIPPING
“In an age when we can put people on the moon and create cars that don’t need drivers, the fact that bars, restaurants and retailers don’t offer their customers exciting options is why Seedlip was devised.” Seedlip founder Ben Branson on the lack of innovative non-alcoholic beverages.
MEA 2017 Supper ad.qxp_Layout 1 01/09/2017 16:10 Page 2
S
uppliers of restaurant/bar/banqueting equipment and menu items who do business with Asia’s group-level hotel and restaurant decision makers, find TO THE TABLE Asia to be the most productive and valuable event in the industry calendar. Meet exclusively the most senior group-level heads of restaurants and bars for all properties across the Asia Pacific region. l Dedicated, pre-selected appointment schedule for each supplier, with your own private meetings and display area. l No stand-build, no exhibition, just highlevel 30-minute strategic meetings with Asia’s top F&B industry leaders. l Three evenings of top class networking dinner functions, with fantastic F&B, to cement your new relationships.
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COCKTAILS
Black Beauty Blind Spot, St Martins Lane, London
I
nfluenced by the British Empire and its ancient tea trade, late-night speakeasy Blind Spot at St Martins Lane serves cocktails behind the façade of a boutique tea counter.
Black Beauty, a peachy classic served on ice in a highball glass, features bourbon and cranberry juice, and is garnished with a maraschino cherry. The cocktail is presented alongside
Blind Spot’s ‘Spin The Globe’ signatures including Dublin, a velvety mix of Jameson whiskey, Guinness reduction, apple compote, orange juice and Drambuie liqueur; and Kyoto, a rich silky serve that marries Nikka whisky from the barrel, almond syrup, rose water, yuzu juice, blackcurrant liqueur and wasabi. Also appearing on the menu alongside savoury delights are a selection of speakeasy cocktail teas including Prelude, a ginbased mixture of Bombay Sapphire, English summer tea, rosé champagne and peach syrup; and Smile For a Y, a chamomileinfused serve comprising grey goose vodka, lemon sherbet and white vermouth syrup. Blind Spot, situated close to London’s Covent Garden, travels harbour to harbour to gather world flavours from 25 destinations including New York, Sydney and Venice, pairing carefully crafted drinks with culinary treats from a variety of regions. www.morganshotelgroup.com
COCKTAILS
Classic Jasmine Hotel Montefiore Tel Aviv
S
erved amidst the luxurious surroundings of the restaurant at Hotel Montefiore, the Classic Jasmine is a boozy grapefruit cocktail that marries a
bittersweet mix of Campari and Cointreau with curacao syrup and lemon juice. Similar to other time-honoured drinks featured on the menu, this house speciality seeks to reflect the romanticism of its surroundings. Featured alongside signature drinks including bar favourite Moscow Mule, an infusion of vodka, lime and ginger beer which refreshes and warms in equal measure; the Singapore Sling, a gin-based serve blending Bénédictine, pineapple and Amarena cherry syrup; and Sidecar, an interpretation of the older brandy crusta using cognac, curacao and Pineau des Charentes, Hotel Montefiore’s menu aims to honour classic and artisanal cocktails to satiate every desire. Built in 1922 on Montefiore Street, at the heart of Tel Aviv’s White City, the hotel embodies the essence of luxury, intimacy and exquisite style in a meticulously restored eclectic edifice – just steps from the iconic Rothschild Boulevard. Echoing an Art Deco style reflective of the historic building, the interior of Hotel Montefiore’s restaurant invites guests to luxuriate, with plush leather cushioned seats amidst mythically sized palms that dot the circumference of the space. www.hotelmontefiore.co.il
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absolutel ifestyle
BESPOKE HIGH TEA STAND
INFO@ALHKG.COM HONG KONG | AMSTERDAM | DUBAI HEAD OFFICE 7/F UNIT C, TUNG KIN FACTORY BUILDING 196-198 TSAT TSZ MUI ROAD QUARRY BAY HONG KONG
House Bar Kimpton De Witt, Amsterdam
Words: Alia Akkam
I
n 1981, Bill Kimpton launched the American boutique
pork, poached eggs, and biscuits; and House Bar, the
hotel industry with the Clarion Bedford Hotel in
sexy, pulsating hub of the hotel set in a 17th-century
San Francisco. Immediately, the Kimpton Hotels &
family home. Swathed in velvet, timber paneling, and
Restaurants brand, the pioneering hotelier’s antidote
glimmering, dark teal, its centerpiece is the bar, with
to big, soulless chains, was associated with down-to-
bottles illuminated in a patchwork of boxes forming the
earth hospitality as much as lively, gratis wine hours
inviting backdrop. Bespoke wallpaper adorned with birds
in the lobby and independent restaurants that locals
brightens original ceiling beams as an ode to hand-
flocked to with as much gusto as guests. Originally
painted Dutch murals of yore.
inspired by the intimate hotels its financier founder
Kimpton hotels, explains that launching House Bar was
now part of the InterContinental Hotels Group portfolio,
both fun and demanding, although “balancing the local
returns to its roots with an inaugural European
attraction with the tourism draw was, and is, tricky.
location. Like its sister properties, the Kimpton De
We spent a lot of time in Amsterdam leading up to the
Witt Amsterdam embraces a local ethos and attracts an
opening, immersing ourselves in Dutch culture. In the
audience of captive imbibers at the humming House Bar.
US we, of course, face challenges market to market, but
Just a short stroll from frenetic Centraal Station
those minor differences pale in comparison to trying to
in the City Centre, the 274-room Kimpton DeWitt
translate our vision and company culture to a different
was transformed from a trio of Dutch Golden Age-
country. We tried hard to be as respectful as possible.
era buildings by London-based architecture practice
Although I’m sure we managed to embarrass ourselves
Michaelis Boyd and Ave Bradley, Kimpton’s creative
occasionally, I like to think we left a mark.”
director and senior VP of design. The airy lobby,
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Mike Ryan, the Chicago-based director of bars for all
frequented while traveling through Europe, Kimpton,
Patrons surely agree. Since House Bar’s inception, the
with its Delft tiles and dusty pink seating greeting
menu has featured such go-to libations as the Tallyman
visitors, is home to several alluring destinations, like
(Plantation Pineapple Stiggins’ Fancy Rum, banana-
the hushed garden conservatory; Wyers Restaurant
infused Maker’s Mark bourbon, Cynar, Pierre Ferrand
& Bar for comfort food à la jalapeno tinged pulled
Dry Orange Curacao, Bittermen’s chocolate bitters)
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and the Stranger (Del Maguey vida mezcal, Koko Kanu Jamaican rum,
Reserve bourbon, chestnut syrup, fino sherry, and orange liqueur. The
Ramazzotti, vanilla, chile), which customers relish sipping alongside
East, an enclave popular with immigrant communities, nods to the
Reuben sandwiches and crispy walnut shrimp in the low-lit space. Ryan
city’s trading history through creations like the Cuppa Plantation, a
points out that some of his favourite bars in the world are found in
caffeinated tribute to the ethnographic museum, Tropenmuseum, with
Amsterdam, so with House, the aim was to create a bar that is “an asset,
William George rum, honey syrup, roasted coconut, and a liquid Nitro
a complementary programme that would help raise the profile of the
garnish. To represent the swank boutique and restaurant-filled South,
city as a quality drinking destination. The design team poured so much
the Yuzu pearl garnished Diamonds are Forever marries Nginious
love into every detail of House Bar - celebrating its history and wrapping
Smoked & Salted Swiss Gin with seaweed-infused Dolin Blanc vermouth,
it in cozy luxury - and we wanted to revel in that.”
Ketel One vodka, and maraschino liqueur. West, home to the harbour,
Now under the stewardship of head bartender Thomas Datema,
evokes quiet, bucolic lands with the Farmer’s Retreat, a mélange of
who has slung drinks at such venerable Amsterdam lairs as Rosalia’s
carrot-beetroot shrub, Rutte Old Simon genever, Bénédictine, and
Menagerie, Porem, and Hiding in Plain Sight, House Bar continues to
orange bitters.
morph and thrive organically, emerging as “a fancy cocktail bar that
Incorporating Dutch-made spirits into the new menu was a priority
still has a homey vibe,” says Datema, eager to instill a warm, welcoming
for Datema, who is eager to “lure in locals and give tourists something
aura that is also on display at more petite drinking institutions in the
they’ve never had before. I absolutely love Genever. At the moment my
city, like Door 74 and Vesper.
favorites are Rutte Old Simon and Bols Corenwyn De Wassende Maen,
One powerful way of initiating a hospitable dialogue with guests is
a limited-edition Corenwyn named for a trading ship that carried
through Datema’s clever new menu. A departure from the first iteration
cardamom and nutmeg, which are the added spices.” Another local
that referenced Dutch artistry, this one is an homage to Amsterdam, laid
spirit Datema loves is the Stillery, “a full-bodied, heavy vodka ideal for
out like a map of the city’s four quadrants: North, East, South, and West.
making cocktails. We also have a tonne of cool rums. William George, a
“I think it’s important to have a good connection with the city. It offers
Jamaican-style one, and Union 55, a spiced version with salted caramel,
locals something familiar, but with a unique take on the Amsterdam
are both made by local bartenders with a lot of experience on the
they know, and it gives tourists an interesting way to get to know a
cocktail scene,” he adds.
place,” he says. To reflect the burgeoning, arty North, for example, there are offbeat concoctions including the (Not So) Yellow Submarine, mingling Del
Soon-to-arrive “house gin” and “house genever” selections, along with a variety of unfussy draft cocktails, are poised to further cement House Bar’s penchant for upscale conviviality.
Maguey Vida mezcal and Ferdinand’s Saar verjus with ginger juice, as well as a wintery spin on the theatrical, flaming Blazer with Woodford
www.kimptondewitthotel.com
IN A BITE Covers: 70 • Owner: YC Amsterdam BV • Operator: Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants • Interior Design: Ave Bradley (Kimpton), Michaelis Boyd • Head Bartender: Thomas Datema • Executive Chef: Sam DeMarco • Tableware: Villeroy & Boch, Steelite • Glassware: Rona, Nachtmann, Libbey • Cutlery: Broggi
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Set Your Spirit Free Words: Angus Winchester
With the mixology community embracing alcohol-free cocktails, creativity behind the bar is no longer reserved for spirits.
L
ast year the Oxford English Dictionary asked people around the world for their least favourite word and above the words ‘no’ and ‘Brexit’ was a clear winner: moist. Yet they obviously didn’t ask many people in the hospitality world, as my research for this article clearly showed
that while owners despise the word ‘Yelp’ and chefs hate ‘intolerant’, for bartenders their least favorite word is ‘mocktail’. Yet is it the word itself or the concept behind it that rankles, and with many studies suggesting that alcohol consumption is declining whilst guest expectations are increasing, what can we expect on our menus and in our glasses in the future? According to the OED the word mocktail was first used in 1936 in America and was defined as ‘a blended non-alcoholic drink consisting of a mixture of fruit juices.’ and researching books older than that, the term that is most often used is ‘temperance drinks’, reflecting the bar world’s Americacentric history. Yet modern bartenders revile the word, not because they work primarily with alcohol, but because it seems to denigrate the drinker as well as the drinks themselves. Chicago bartender Julia Momose explains it best: “The very term mocktail evokes negative feelings. The word is merely the combination of mock and cocktail. So then, is it a mockery
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Recipe Orange Dragon Hong, The Ritz-Carlton, Riyadh 75ml fresh mandarin puree (strained) 30ml coconut water 5ml Neroli (organic orange blossom hydrosol) 20ml spiced honey Top 40ml with Cold Brew Japanese Sencha Soda Spiced honey – honey sous vide cooked with Kefir lime leaf and lemongrass. Fresh ginger juice added after. Cold Brew Sencha Soda – cold brew sencha tea overnight with cold water in a refrigerator.
of a cocktail and
2000s term ‘pregatinis’ is long forgotten) or even alcoholism
a disappointment
(a number of high profile bartenders have openly admitted
since it isn’t a ‘real’
problems with alcohol); or are responsible designated drivers,
cocktail? I do not want
and one can see that the rise of the low alcohol (aka Shims’)
to serve, nor do I want
and the no alcohol are growing sectors.
to be served, a mockup of
It’s a growth area that has been recognised by the big
a beverage or an attempt at
alcoholic brand companies. One of the most innovative
a cocktail. I want a proper drink
launches of the last year was Seedlip – backed by Distill
and something made with care and
Ventures, an incubator for Diageo. A distilled non alcoholic
thoughtfulness, that takes into account
liquid (some called it non alcoholic gin), it retails for the
the ingredients, balance, technique,
same price as a high end white spirit and is lauded by many
and most of all, the person for whom the
bartenders as the first true spirit-free product they stock and
beverage is made.”
are experimenting with. The high price point is off putting
Even traditional alternative names such as
to many operators, but as Aaron Polsky of cool Los Angeles
virgin, soft, non-alcoholic, zero proof or alcohol-
bar Harvard & Stone says,“It brings to market a quality
free, all have an implication of something weak or
ingredient for a demographic that, prior, had to contend with
lacking, and to that end bartenders are leaning towards
gut-busting juice blends, sodas, or caffeinated drinks. The
the terms spiritfree or placebos, if required to for menu
extraction, distillation, and blending of botanicals is beyond
design. On a side note, several bartenders are now actually
the reach of most bars and more importantly, the people who
adding cocktails without alcohol into their regular menus that
aren’t drinking - for whatever reason - often know Seedlip,
are divided by flavour or serving style, much in the same
see its value, and are happy that it’s on offer and that they’ve
way a chef will place vegetarian dishes alongside those with
been catered to.”
meat or fish.
Time will tell if other alcohol companies jump on this
Once I had negotiated the proper nomenclature, almost
bandwagon, but for those who revel in the creativity of the
all the people I interviewed said that the category was both
mixologist, the non-alcoholic world offers the chance to play,
necessary and increasing in popularity, and if you look at
without the payoff of hangovers and the like. When asked
greater social trends that’s not surprising. A recent survey of
about their non-alcoholic offers, many bars and bartenders
Millenials found that the number of 16-24 year olds that did
merely stated that with the range of fresh fruits and herbs that
not drink alcohol had increased from 19% to 27% in a decade.
most craft bars stock these days they can ‘whip something
Added to that is the number of people that worried about the
up on the fly’ for their non drinking guests. But others have
health effect of alcohol; could not drink alcohol due to health
embraced them in the same way they cater for boozers. As
reasons such as pregnancy (thankfully the short-lived early
Momose says, “When people order a spiritfree they should
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never feel like they are missing out on any part of the
ire of the modern mixologist. In the USA they have the
experience. From the way we talk about the drinks, to
Shirley Temple or Roy Rogers which are seen more as
what we call them, how we make them, and how we
children’s drinks, while in the UK the St Clements was
present them, each step matters. From a behind-the-
the only drink to be mentioned, and even Hong Kong’s
scenes viewpoint, I believe in incorporating as many
Gunner is not known much outside Asia. So bartenders
layers of distinct and complex flavours as possible so
are in fact reimagining alcoholic cocktails such as the
that in the case that the base is served over ice, it will
Negroni (or Nogroni as it seems to be known), the gin
open up, slowly, like a fine whisky or gin, rather than
and tonic and even the Ramos Gin Fizz using modernist
simply getting watered down.”
techniques to infuse water and vermouths – much in
The Ritz Carlton Macau Bar Manager Maxim Schulte
the same way that Seedlip does commercially. Whether
“They have to be interesting and not just a quick fix to get a non-alcoholic drink on the menu.”
agrees and states, authoritatively, “For us they have
these drinks need their own categorisation (Placebos
to be interesting and not just a quick fix to get a non-
makes perfect sense here) is still to be decided, but it’s
alcoholic drink on the menu. As with our signature
certainly the first real attempt at a product similar to
cocktails, we are using homemade ingredients to create
non-alcoholic beer, which has been steadily growing in
a multi-layered flavour experience. They have to be
popularity since I was a young bartender.
balanced with a certain body, even without the alcohol.
Society is certainly advocating the improvement
Also, I like to focus on a health aspect in these drinks
in alcohol-free drinks for a variety of reasons and no
and try not to use sugar. I like to use honey, which can
one should have an issue with this, but instead should
be flavoured with spices or other ingredients.” And as
embrace the challenge and the opportunity to show
someone who deals with non drinking Asian gamblers,
hospitality to all of their guests. Chefs have done this
and whose last job was bar manager of the Ritz Carlton
for years with vegetarian and vegan foods, and as the
in Riyadh, which only serves alcohol-free cocktails, he
cocktail becomes more culinary, so the options for
should know.
drinkers are growing as is the chance to make all our
As for the classics, there are alas very few to choose from, and thus few to twist, which is very much the
guests, and not just the drinkers, feel comfortable, welcome, important and understood.
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Sobering Thoughts Leaders, pioneers and opinion formers in the field of low and no alcohol beverages offer their views on why the drinks industry is changing.
Words: Holly Motion
T
wo years ago Professor David Nutt rather sensationally claimed ‘hangover-free alcohol’ could replace all regular alcohol by 2050. The clock is ticking, and with each passing stroke another big name is dipping its toe into the no-abv pool, and the professor’s
assertions aren’t looking quite so far-fetched now. Where once the sober spender was something of a minority, one in
five people now declare themselves teetotal in the UK and their spending power silenced critics when double-digit growth was reported last year. Such growth has not gone unnoticed and the biggest drinks companies are scrambling over themselves to launch an adult offering to cater for this demand. So much so, brewing goliath AB InBev pledged that 20% of its beer volumes will fall into the low/no alcohol category by 2025. So, where has this temperance movement come from? The answer is complex and cross-generational. “Younger people are drinking less,” founder of mindful drinking movement Club Soda, Laura Willoughby MBE, says. “Even if they do have some wilder nights out, those are less frequent. They are far more conscious of their health and diet, the quality of their socialising - vertical drinking in any old pub is just not good value for money - and are more likely to spend cash on fewer
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“The demand for adult alternatives to alcohol has driven the category. Those who want or need to avoid alcohol don’t want to be restricted to orange juice or lemonade”
Willoughby’s three quick and easy wins for hotels:
1. Make sure you have a range of no alcohol drinks that are as good as the alcoholic drinks you have on offer, and make sure you have tasted them all yourself. 2. Train your staff to serve these drinks with confidence and pride. This includes zero tolerance for humiliating customers for not choosing alcohol. 3. Can someone find a name for this range of drinks that doesn’t sound like they are ‘less than’? Alcohol-free, non-alcoholic, mocktail, soft - these are all negative names that suggest something is missing, when in fact the new wave of drinks are amazing products in their own right.
‘really good’ drinks.” Then there’s the social media
orange juice or lemonade,” Christine Humphreys, co-
sceptre. “Millennials don’t want a digital footprint
founder of The Alcohol-Free Shop, says. And brands
of drunken photos to follow them as they enter the
have delivered, according to the founder of newly
world of work.”
launched botanical-driven, no alcohol, Borrago. “As
It’s not just the younger generation changing
ever, entrepreneurs have spotted this gap in the
the drinking landscape. “People are far more
market and are moving fast to fill it,” Tom Tuke-
conscious about how their health is impacted by their
Hastings says. “There are always the early adopters
environment, their activity levels and what they put
who find out about these things and get involved.
into their bodies,” Jason Sennitt, head of premium
This is a mass market and the market is catching up
spirit enhancer Merchant’s Heart, adds. “There is
fast. Stores are listing, and bars and restaurants are
also more information available than ever before
stocking.”
within the world of food and beverage, and people are seeking to arm themselves with the facts.” The sugar-free, gluten-free and low carb conscious
Unlike other products on the market, Borrago contains no sugar or calories, and comes in at 0.0% abv (hence the enormous digit on the label). A large
have also played their part in this sober shift. “Don’t
number of the early adopters have been start-ups
underestimate the other dietary levers that shape this
but the big companies are coming in with their own
trend,” Willoughby says. “It’s about what we drink as
offerings, partnerships or buy-outs. “The shelves are
well as what we eat. And people often make decisions
getting fuller,” Tuke-Hastings adds.
about when and what to drink based on how the rest of their diet is shaping up.” All of this doesn’t mean people are going to stop
Humphreys has been operating in this sphere for more than 11 years and has seen first-hand the tides change. “When we first launched The Alcohol-
drinking altogether, according to Willoughby, “but
Free Shop in Manchester, we were dismissed by
the numbers choosing to drink less or going for an
those working in the alcohol industry as ‘harmless
alcohol-free lifestyle are increasing, and they are
cranks’”, she says. “At the beginning, we found a
more likely to talk about it in positive terms.”
very limited choice in the UK. The choices of alcoholfree alternatives to wine and beer had remained
Drinking options
stagnant since the 70s.” The same wasn’t true on the
Where once consumers who couldn’t, or didn’t,
continent where there were ‘dozens’ of alcohol-free
want abv would find options incredibly limited, the
beers to choose from and a ‘good selection’ of wines.
number of alternative tipples is increasing - more
“We approached some brewers inviting them to
so everyday. “The demand for adult alternatives to
create some good alcohol-free British beers and
alcohol has driven the category. Those who want or
they literally laughed in our faces,” she says. “Now,
need to avoid alcohol don’t want to be restricted to
a few leaders in the field have started producing
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some excellent alcohol-free beers and.interest in spirit
lists up and down the country.” So much so, Willoughby’s
alternatives has soared.” The shop already stocks alcohol-
Club Soda Guide is expanding to hotels this year. “Hotels
free gin substitute GinSin and Whissin, an alternative to
are great at creating an ‘experience’ when it comes to a
whiskey. This, for Humphreys is the real growth area.
night out, especially around the theatre of mixology and
“Demand for alternatives to spirits is great, and lots of producers are trying to tap into this market with new drinks.”
quality ingredients. They also tend to be open later, so their customers want something more ‘sessionable’ - drinks that are not too strong so you can have more of them in an
Hotels and bars
evening,” she says.
After a period of resistance, the on-trade has started to embrace the low/no abv options, and the profit margins
Future
that these offerings provide.
With the on-trade on board and big and small companies
“On-trade to me is one of the most important places
movement can go. “We are still in early days for this trend
guests both in bars and restaurants are a key entry point.
and are globally leading with lots of great British brands
They converse with trusted professionals who advise and
exporting around the world,” Tuke-Hastings says.
suggest. It is their recommendations that drive trial and
Biased perhaps, the Borrago founder says: “I think this
this moves the whole trend on. You can’t be successful
is the most exciting trend in food and drink at the moment.
in a supermarket until you have an educated public who
People are really interested in it and consumption is
want your product, and to me this happens in the bars and
growing rapidly. This will transcend being just about low
restaurants.”
and no alcohol. It is about creating more delicious options
Sennitt agrees: “The on-trade has risen to the challenge of creating brilliant options for the non/moderate drinker. It’s now commonplace to see an impressive list of sophisticated packaged softs and mocktails on drinks
098
getting involved, it’s only natural to wonder how far this
for any new trend or brand,” Tuke-Hastings says. “Hotel
that people will want. The low or no alcohol will be just another advantage. The future could not be brighter.” Jason Sennitt says simply: “Embrace it, because it’s here to stay.” A sobering thought.
LADY AND BUTLER BESPOKE UNIFORMS ladyandbutler.com
Sober Grapes For those who don’t drink alcohol, wine is typically off the menu. But with hotels bringing de-alcoholized varieties onto their lists, that could be set to change. Words: Nina Caplan
H
otels are, traditionally, ideal places to forget
actually 100% alcohol-free - for that, there are
one’s responsibilities and party late, safe in
grape juices blended with fizzy water. For many, the
the knowledge that bed is a lift-ride away
difference in quality – aromas and tastes redolent
and it is someone else’s job to make coffee
of wine, without the effects on brain and liver – is
in the morning. But there are increasing numbers
worth the 0.5-1.2% alcohol that remains in the drink.
of people with no interest in a boozy evening. In
For those who are entirely pure, there will always be
addition to the traditional non-drinkers – the
ordinary grape juice, or more sophisticated blends
pregnant, the unwell, the recovering alcoholic
from unfermented grapes. But there are good reasons
and the confirmed teetotaller – there is a growing
why our ancestors started letting yeasts feed on the
movement away from alcohol and towards more
sugar in grapes; the fermentation process creates a
healthful social interaction. And, at last, there is
different drink, and a far more remarkable one. And
something palatable to wash down all that virtue. It
technology – a better handmaiden, even, than the
has always been pointed out that you don’t have to
hotel waiter who serves that hangover coffee – now
drink to have a good time, to which the wine-lover
means that barflies can have their cake and eat it. Or
could reasonably raise a sound objection. Today,
rather, can drink their wine and keep their senses
however, to add to the juice, the soda, the mocktail
intact.
and the spiritless spirit, there is wine that contains barely a trace of alcohol. Why even a trace? Because the best-tasting alcohol-free wine is made by creating a wine then removing the alcohol, which means it is never
There are several different ways to make dealcoholized wine, from adding grape must and
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other flavourings to reverse osmosis. This latter is the method used by Ariel Vineyards in California, which has actually won awards for its wines, and is stocked in various US hotels, including Carneros Resort & Spa in Napa and Fort William Henry Hotel in New York state. The normal process for winemaking is used, with ageing in oak barrels, fining and filtering. Then reverse osmosis extracts the water and alcohol, and fresh water is added to the resulting concentrate. Another process is steam vacuuming, a gentler method of heating the alcohol to vaporisation point than simple boiling would be; the latter would be too brutal to keep any of the wine’s flavours. The last method is spinning cone technology. Helen McGinn, author of Teetotal Tipples (Robinson), calls this process a ‘game-changer’ for its ability to extract the
Technology – a better handmaiden, even, than the hotel waiter who serves that hangover coffee – now means that barflies can have their cake and eat it. Or rather, can drink their wine and keep their senses intact. alcohol without as much evaporation as other techniques, so retaining those all-important flavours and aromas, as well as body: a lot of teetotal wines taste thin and somehow unsatisfying without the alcohol that gives wine its presence. This method also has the advantage of avoiding the cloying sweetness that can come with many ways of creating these wines, particularly adding ingredients to grape juice. After all, alcohol is made by using yeasts to convert the sugars present in a liquid; avoid or reverse this, and you are likely to end up with more sugar than any sophisticated – or health-conscious – drinker wants to ingest. Spinning cone technology involves using centrifugal force to convert the wine into a thin film, then extracting the flavours and aromas and enfolding them in a protective coating of nitrogen gas while the remaining wine has its alcohol extracted; the two parts of the drink are then recombined. To what extent it is actually possible to separate flavours or aromas from their surroundings is a matter of individual opinion, but it certainly seems to be the case that the dealcoholized wines of Miguel Torres, which use this method, are better than most. Torres is a major, family-owned Spanish company that makes wines ranging from fairly light – the ubiquitous MoscatelGewürztraminer blend Viña Esmeralda, which is around 11% ABV – to the serious, rich reds of Priorat such as
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Salmos, which come in at 14.5%. But Miguel Torres wants
like France and Italy, which traditionally have robust
people who don’t wish to drink alcohol to enjoy his wines
drinking cultures that largely avoid the binge-drinking
as well, and has had the sense to pick full-flavoured, highly
mentality of the UK, Australia or Scandinavia, rates of
aromatic grapes for his non-alcoholic equivalents. So the
alcohol consumption are falling. Yet when Corporate Wine
white Torres Natureo is made with Muscat of Alexandria,
Directors and other F&B professionals were asked about the
and retains some of the flowery exoticism so associated
topic, there was little interest. It is not an expanding area
with that grape, while the red is Syrah, famous for being
for them, at present. But perhaps it should be.
both perfumed and peppery. There’s also a rosé, from Syrah
a bottle of The Bee’s Knees, a new alcohol-free fizz made
others, are successful enough to have made it onto hotel
from grape juice and green tea. It comes in white or rosé,
wine lists: several Shangri-La hotels in China, plus China
in a proper Champagne-style bottle complete with cork.
Tang at The Dorchester in London, stock one or more of
These children of enthusiastic drinkers have already gained
these wines, as does The Oaks Hotel in Somerset. This last
an understanding of the festive nature of that popping cork
is an interesting irony, given that the hotel is just down
and the occasional, exciting rush of liquid that follows it;
the road from Porlock: a village whose main claim to fame
they have tried little sips of our Champagne. Now we had
is that one of its residents is supposed to have interrupted
the novel experience of actually sharing a festive bottle,
Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s opium-induced reverie, while he
and it was a salutary reminder that a lot of what people
was writing Kubla Khan. The poem, Coleridge claimed, was
love about sparkling wine is less to do with alcohol than
never finished.
with fun. I picture a hotel restaurant, a child’s birthday
Is that a good reason to avoid intoxicants or a better one
and, instead of one drink for the adults and another for
not to open the door when you’re busy? What is certain
the infants, non-alcoholic fizz circling the table. If current
is that mind-altering substances have their uses: Kubla
trends are anything to go by, a larger proportion of those
Khan, truncated or not, would be an entirely different poem
children will grow up to avoid alcohol most if not all of
if its author had avoided them. And if Coleridge had been
the time; plus it is surely good to avoid, every now and
ensconced in a modern hotel room, with a Do Not Disturb
then, the association of festivity with strong drink. The
sign on the door, he could have dreamed at will, free from
mark-ups are, of course, far smaller on teetotal beverages
interruption, with or without the help of opium or alcohol.
than on their alcoholic equivalent. And some places, such
So perhaps, it is a reason to spend more time staying away
as hotel bars, are all the better for being child-free places
from home.
where a good stiff drink is easy to come by, particularly for
It is not just writers who may want to rethink their
the overnight guest. Still, for hotel eateries keen to appeal
modus operandi; when it comes to alcohol-free wines
to a family clientele, non-alcoholic wine, particularly the
hotels probably should, too. In the UK, over 20% of the
sparkling kind, may be an idea whose time has come.
adult population claim not to drink at all. Even in countries
104
At home, with my stepchildren and their father, I opened
and Cabernet Sauvignon, and these wines, unlike many
1000+ suppliers
80
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Seedlip What to drink when you’re not drinking.
Words: Harry McKinley
I
t all started with the seed of an idea – to answer the question of
options beyond juices,” Branson says, “Instead we use brines, teas,
what to drink when you’re not drinking and to provide a ‘grown up’
vinegars and salts to bring complexity and which lend themselves to a
alternative to sweet non-alcoholic drinks.
new breed of sophisticated non-alcoholic cocktails.”
Created by Ben Branson, Seedlip is billed as the world’s first distilled
As well as being a groundbreaking product, Seedlip benefits from a
non-alcoholic spirits range and plugs a gap in the market that – until
strong, beautifully intentioned brand identity that tallies with its target
its invention -was increasingly widening, as growing numbers cut their
audience. From illustrations that blend Seedlip’s ingredients with
alcohol intake or shirk the strong stuff altogether.
animals typically found on Branson’s farm “through to reusing our
“Seedlip is a nature company on a mission to solve a modern
bottles as terrariums, or the precision and clarity of our photography,”
dilemma,” explains Branson. “If you’re not drinking alcohol, for
Branson is painstakingly obsessive about the simplicity and truth of
whatever reason, the options are typically fruity. They are a compromise
Seedlip’s aesthetic.
and, in an age when we can put people on the moon and create cars that
In 2016 Seedlip hit the headlines when – through Distill Ventures
don’t need drivers, the fact that bars, restaurants and retailers don’t
– Diageo threw its money into the pot. It was the group’s first non-
offer their customers exciting options is why Seedlip was devised.”
alcoholic investment in 257 years and a definitive sign that Branson
For Branson, the project is personal, and he looked to his own family
had hit upon something that was anything but niche. It is now served
heritage to inform both the product and the brand. “My family began
in over 100 Michelin-starred restaurants, sold in 15 food and drink
farming in Lincolnshire, using baskets to hand-sow seeds, called
‘capitals’ and special Seedlip menus have been developed by the likes
seedlips,” he says. “So bringing Seedlip to life was an opportunity to
of Erik Lorincz – at The Savoy, London – and Ryan Chetiyawardana,
delve into that history and a chance to champion my adoration for flora
Branson has also recently announced a partnership with World’s 50 Best
and fauna.”
Restaurants that will further cement the brand’s status as a global force.
In 2013, while researching herbs to grow at home, Branson happened
“From hand-making in my kitchen two years ago, as a one-man
upon a copy of The Art of Distillation, published in 1651. It documented
company with my mobile phone number on the website, it’s been
apothecaries’ alcoholic and non-alcoholic distilled herbal remedies.
genuinely nothing short of surreal,” Branson says. “I don’t believe
Fascinated, he bought a small copper still and started experimenting in
anything is original, everything is simply a combination of other
his kitchen using herbs from the garden.
things and the past really can inform the future. But with Seedlip we
Today, there are two varieties of Seedlip, one a bright, fresh blend of pea
have reimagined an ancient craft to solve a modern-day need, whilst
and hay distillates, with the likes of spearmint and rosemary; the other
continuing my family’s 300 year commitment to celebrating what
a heady, aromatic option with cardamom, Jamaican all-spice berry and
nature has to offer.”
bark distillates. As well as being non-alcoholic, both are sugar free. “Our approach is to seek out or create more interesting ingredient
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www.seedlipdrinks.com
DRINKS
Branson on Seedlip: Seedlip Garden 108 A herbal blend of pea and hay distillates from my farm, combined with rosemary, thyme, spearmint and hops. With its bright green character, Garden 108 mixes perfectly with Fever Tree tonic and makes great Sours or Collins style drinks.
Branson on Seedlip: Seedlip Spice 94 An aromatic blend of Jamaican all-spice berry, cardamom, citrus peel and two bark [oak and cascarilla] distillates. Warm, woody and best mixed with tonic, Spice 94 makes great Martini style serves, using shrubs and verjuice.
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DRINKS
Edrington
Naked Grouse Relaunching as a blended malt, Edrington’s Naked Grouse whisky takes its name and distinctive flavour from the first fill Oloroso sherry oak casks in which it is matured. The ageing process, along with a blend of single malts, results in a rich and fruity whisky with a soft spice finish and offers a more robust flavour than its predecessor. Designed for a younger consumer not tied to conventional whisky rules, the new 40% ABV Naked Grouse has been created using malts such as The Macallan, Highland Park, Glenturret and Glenrothes, and reflects a naked personality through simple yet distinctive packaging. Offering a buttery toffee scent, its fragrance is reminiscent of orchard fruits, while on the palate it provides flavours of sultana, cooked apples and rich fudge, followed by finish of toasted oak. The malt’s versatility allows it to be served individually or in mixed drinks, with its signature serve combining 50ml Naked Grouse with cherry soda on ice, and garnished with fresh lime and a cherry – delivering freshness through warm sherry richness. “The transition from a blended scotch to a malt is being made in response to increasing popularity of single malts and demand from bartenders for an accessible whisky with distinctive flavour,” explains Elaine Miller, Global Marketing Manager at Edrington. “Malt whisky continues to rise in popularity with consumers and, by changing our liquid, we can use the individuality and character of single malts and create a whisky that stands out from the crowd.” www.nakedgrouse.com
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2 Venues.
1 Mega Show. 24 - 27 April 2018 Singapore Expo
Asia’s most comprehensive international food and hospitality trade event
Since 1978
Suntec Singapore
119,500 sqm of exhibition area 6 specialised exhibitions 4,000 exhibitors from over 70 countries / regions
68 international group pavilions 78,000 trade attendees from 100 countries / regions
Tens of thousands of products and solutions from across the globe
20
Over related competitions, activities and workshops that provide an all-encompassing show experience
1 power-packed FHA2018 International Conference
For free admission, pre-register your visit before 12 April 2018!
foodnhotelasia.com hotel-asia.com Co-located with
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Subscribers benefit from: • Previews of the most exciting projects breaking ground • Reviews of new hotels opening worldwide • In-depth interviews with leading hoteliers, interior designers and architects • Coverage of exhibitions and conferences for the hotel industry • Exclusive updates of Sleeper’s events including AHEAD – the global awards for hospitality experience and design – and Sleepover – the inventive event for hotel innovators For more information please contact subscriptions@mondiale.co.uk
DRINKS
Italian Dry Gin Seven Hills
Created by Italian mixologists Filippo Previero and Danilo Tersigni, Seven Hills Italian Dry Gin is a juniper spirit blended with seven botanicals. Inspired by ancient Roman culinary and cultural traditions, the botanicals used grow naturally on the seven hills that surround the Italian capital, and are mixed to produce a delicately balanced, versatile liquid. Made using a combination of pomegranate, celery, artichoke, blood orange, rosehip and roman chamomile, the naturally flavoured concoction is infused with a sugar beet neutral spirit and distilled using a vacuum to maintain the delicate flavours stored within its botanicals, resulting in an intense and rounded taste and aroma for a modern gin. Working particularly well with tonic water over ice and garnished with celery to enhance its aromatic flavours, the fruity juniper spirit leaves light citrus notes on the nose. On the palate, sweet pomegranate with hints of roman chamomile comes through, perfectly balanced by the earthy freshness of the celery. As a cocktail ingredient it can be used in a bitter apĂŠritif such as the Negroni, marrying effortlessly with Campari, vermouth rosso and a slice of orange. Danilo Tersigni and Filippo Previero, founders of Seven Hills Italian Dry Gin, comment: “Our aim is to communicate the uniqueness of Seven Hills Italian Dry Gin. Its earthy, citrus flavour is not only inspired by Italian cooking traditions, but by Roman culture itself. The result is an unusual taste, where ancient and modern flavours merge into an unforgettable drinking experience.â€? www.viihills.co.uk
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DRINKS
Winter Forestry
The London Essence Co. British non-alcoholic drinks brand, The London Essence Co., launched an initiative that brought together bartenders in a collaborative forum to explore and build creative potential. ‘The Essence of the Season’ programme featured an inaugural theme of Winter Forestry, which was created by Brand Ambassador Hamish Bremner. The initial collection of skillfully distilled tonics and mixers included Alpine Forest and Bonfire, combining The London Essence Company’s grapefruit mixer and ginger ale with mountainous serves of gin and winter warmers, featuring sherry cask-aged whisky. The series also featured Nothing Succeeds Like Luxury, an extravagant serve of barrel-aged gin, VSOP cognac, The London Essence Co. Bitter Orange and Elderflower with exotic pineapple, bitter pomegranate and sweet cherry. Yuletide Punch, a modern twist on a Charles Dickens’ favourite, was the final concoction on the menu, and
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featured crisp white port, fresh citrus, honey syrup, Islay whiskey soaked apricots and The London Essence Company Classic Tonic, served with a grating of nutmeg for up to four people. The London Essence Co. supported seven bartenders from London during the forum’s first season to create their own unique expression of the season, alongside industry mentors Nick Strangeway, Stu Bale, photographer Addie Chinn, as well as forager and alchemist Jemma Foster. Hamish Bremner comments: “As a bartender myself, I know how important it can be to express creativity, whether it is creating drinks for people off the cuff or designing drinks with a team. With our seasonal project we created a support structure that will grow change and be rewarding for years to come. I look forward to exploring new ideas with my peers.” www.londonessenceco.com
SIDES
“Twenty years ago hotels could have a very general collection of whiteware, or pick a collection to run with, but now it’s far more bespoke.” Dick Delaney, Design Director of Wedgwood, on the evolution of hotel table tops.
SIDES
To The Table MEA 14th – 16th November 2017 Muscat
Words: Heleri Rande, Photography: Richard Pereira
T
O THE TABLE, the leading global F&B decision makers forum, hosted
trends should be in central focus. The concept development panellists had
its Middle Eastern edition in Muscat, Oman in mid-November,
some disagreement whether trends should actually be followed, but a theme
marking the 10th event in the company’s portfolio. The picturesque
that resonated from all was that lobby and F&B spaces need to become
Shangri-la Barr Al Jissah resort provided the perfect playground for
more transitional to cater for the ‘isolated togetherness’ that most of the
top suppliers and key buyers from the industry to spend three days talking shop, networking over Omani delicacies and tackling pressing issues in the seminar programme.
demographic is after. The three days culminated in a lavish spread of local and international flavours, carefully assembled by Shane O’Neill, Executive Chef of the resort.
The one-on-one meetings were scheduled conveniently in between the
With beautiful Omani sunsets in the background and great tunes on the
panel discussions leaving enough time to talk and listen. Senior buyers came
dance floor, the social aspect of the conference was a re-enforcement of
from the likes of AccorHotels, Alila Hotels and Resorts, Emaar Properties,
the business relationships developed during the day as explained by Lloyd
Jumeirah Group, Marriott International, Shaza Hotels and the First Group.
Lamprecht, International Key Account Manager at Villeroy & Boch: “Besides
The supplier side was made up of a select group of industry leaders keen to
the exceptional organization, high level of attendees and valuable meetings,
expand their product lines in the region and introduce new and innovative
the most important part of the event is the time to network. Hospitality
solutions to the market. From cutlery and tableware to textiles and
remains a business of people and it is between the meetings and the usual
sustainable hygiene solutions, the companies attending included the likes of
formality of business where the real work happens. TO THE TABLE takes
Dudson, Fonderia Finco, Masa Industrie Tessili and Wood Stone Corporation.
care of both these aspects with great balance and for this reason we will
The seminar programme, co-hosted by Supper’s Consulting Editor Heleri
continue to support the event.”
Rande, addressed issues such as designing restaurants for Millennials, with W Amman as a case study, looking at technology and social media, with a
To The Table Europe 2018:
specific focus on the complex local market and discussing the challenges of
16th–18th April, Corinthia Grand Hotel, Budapest
developing F&B concepts for the Middle East. “In ten years 54% of spend
To The Table Asia 2018:
will come from Millennials, so we have to pay attention to that demographic
9th – 11th October, Grand Hyatt, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
when designing our spaces,” said Patrick Waring, of Silverfox Studios. This
To The Table MEA 2019:
was further strengthened in the technology session, where Georgie Woollams
29th April -1st May 2019, Rosewood Abu Dhabi, UAE.
from Katch International re-iterated that “2/3 of the GCC audience make their restaurant choices through social media,” showcasing that Millennial
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www.tothetableeurope.com
41Mad Supper Magazine R5_Layout 1 11/28/17 12:01 PM Page 1
IT’S ALL IN THE P R E S E N TAT I O N THE NEW YORK TABLETOP SHOW APRIL 10 – 13, 2018
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Photography: Constantin Falk
Photography: Gili Shani
Global Drinks Forum
Bar Convent Berlin
9th October 2017 Berlin
10th – 11th October 2017 Berlin
Returning for its second year, the Global Drinks Forum at Berlin’s
Having established itself as a leading trade show for the bar and beverage
Ellington Hotel welcomed key brand owners, business development
industry, Bar Convent Berlin returned to Station Berlin in October 2017
experts and wholesalers to discuss industry topics, exchange ideas
with a special focus on France – this year’s BCB Country of Honour.
and network. Kicking off Bar Convent Berlin, Europe’s bar and beverage trade show, the one-day conference was centred on global brand
Welcoming 370 global exhibitors from 32 countries, the exhibition showcased more than 1,100 brands and hosted countless tastings in the Brew Berlin area and new Coffee Convent Berlin.
development. Mark Meek, CEO of ISWR, the International Wine &
In attendance were bartenders, managers and owners, alongside leading
Spirits Report, opened the forum programme with latest insights from
industry figures including Ian Burrell, Phil Duff, Alex Kratena, Salvatore
the world’s largest database on the alcohol and beverage industry.
Calabrese and Steve Schneider. Through a comprehensive programme of
Meanwhile, Global Marketing Director of Havana Club Rum, Nick Blacknell, discussed successful marketing strategies. Previously of
lectures, seminars, master classes and tastings, speakers shared insights into their concoctions and mixology know-how.
Jameson, Beefeater, Plymouth and Absolut, Blacknell delved into
“The mix of business and content is the DNA of BCB. Both together are
effective techniques that major chains could inherit from smaller
the foundation of our success,” comments Petra Lassahn, Director at Bar
industry brands.
Convent Berlin.
Tackling the psychology of brands and packaging, a prominent
Further, the Global Drinks Forum formed a core part of the industry
talking point at the Global Drinks Forum this year, was packaging
mega-event. Held the day before Bar Convent Berlin, the conference
designer Stranger & Stranger. Trash Tiki – a company who use by-
brought together over 100 international speakers and experts from the
products and waste for ingredients and cocktails – further examined
spirits industry to discuss trends shaping the future of F&B.
the creative ways for the beverage industry to deal with the challenge of sustainability. Elsewhere, the line-up of keynote speakers comprised major industry players such as Adrian D. Parker, vice-president of the
The next Bar Convent Berlin will take place at Station Berlin as a three-day event from 8th - 10th October 2018, while the event is set for international expansion with the first Bar Convent Brooklyn scheduled for next June.
Patrón Spirits Company, and Jacob Briars, global advocacy director of Bacardi and president of the Global Drinks Forums 2017. www.globaldrinksforum.com
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www.barconvent.com
SIDES
FortyOne Madison 10th – 13th April 2018 New York
T
he New York Tabletop Show, taking place at FortyOne Madison, is set to bring the world’s leading tableware brands together in April 2018. Welcoming buyers, designers and chefs from the
hospitality industry, the trade show will feature 23 floors of showrooms from over 80 leading manufacturers including Alessi, LSA International and Villeroy & Boch. Returning international brands from the worlds of giftware, dinnerware, and flatware will be in abundant supply, with Christofle, Luigi Burmioli and Wedgwood also set to exhibit their latest collections to potential buyers. Exhibitors can be located and contacted using the event’s mobile application, which allows attendees to view brand products and organise their appointments using its intuitive To Do feature. The Buyer’s Lounge, where purchasers can relax between appointments, further offers a space for networking. Taking place in Forty One Madison’s elegant showroom spaces, with views of Madison Square Park, the event is set to continue success of the Rudin Family Project, which has attracted architects, designers and F&B professionals for over forty years. www.41madison.com
117
SIDES
Sleep 21st – 22nd November 2017 London
S
leep – Europe’s leading hotel design and development
dining concepts, sourcing local, and the rise of the slow
event – continued its F&B element for a second
food movement.
successive year at the Business Design Centre in
Continuing the overarching theme of loyalty, the Moscow-
November 2017. Attended primarily by hotel designers
based Sundukovy Sisters created this year’s Sleeper Bar,
and architects, the UBM organised trade show played host to
which was developed around the idea that loyalty is born out
an overarching theme centred on Loyalty: Lessons in Love,
of our inner and outer worlds converging. Their concept used
and explored the concept through the two-day conference.
reflection and light to suggest the infinity of humankind,
Seeking to offer visitors food for thought, the talks
while simultaneously capturing the complex inner world of
programme brought together some of the leading minds in
each guest.
hospitality design and development to debate issues shaping
Attracting a record number of visitors from the worlds of
the industry’s future. Three tastemakers from the F&B world
hotels, restaurants and bars, this year’s edition marked the
sat down with Sleeper Editor Catherine Martin for the Fast
final Sleep at London’s Business Design Centre, with the
Food session to deliver vignettes on the ever-changing world
event moving to London Olympia in 2018, and taking place
of F&B. Bob Puccini, founder of Puccini Group, designer and
on 20-21 November 2018.
chef Ido Garini from Studio Appétit, and Simon Rawlings, Creative Director at David Collins Studio discussed new
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www.thesleepevent.com
GRIF 2018
12-14 March 2018 Palazzo Versace, Dubai, UAE
POWERED BY
FACILITATING INVESTMENT DECISION-MAKING WITHIN THE RESTAURANT SPACE
OFFCIAL PARTNER
HOST SPONSOR
A WELL ORGANISED OPPORTUNITY TO CONNECT WITH THE GLOBAL F&B INDUSTRY. EXCELLENT BREAK FROM DAY TO DAY CONCERNS AND HELPS PUT THE BIG PICTURE INTO PERSPECTIVE. GREAT ONE-STOP NETWORKING AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT EVENT FOR THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY.
The Global Restaurant Investment Forum (GRIF) facilitates investment decision-making within the restaurant space. The forum showcases the hottest restaurant concepts from around the globe and gives attendees a place of focus where they can connect with investors, owners, franchisors and senior hospitality professionals; assess the state of the hospitality industry and secure deals for the coming year. GRIF 2018 is proud to once again be powered by Michelin, enriching the event with its extensive network and world class chefs.
REGISTER NOW! www.restaurant-invest.com/register www.restaurant-invest.com #GRIF, @GRIF_news | GRIFsocial
DRIVING GROWTH • SHOWCASING INNOVATION • CELEBRATING EXCELLENCE
Host 20th – 24th October 2017 Milan
H
aving established itself as a leading trade show in the Horeca, food
are further away, eager not to miss the event.”
service, retail, large-scale distribution and hotel industry, Host
Divided into three macro-areas, the tradeshow showcased exhibitors
returned for a milestone 40th edition at Fiera Milano in October
from distinct production categories, and for the first time this year, The
2017.
Experience Gallery gave visitors a first-hand view – and taste – of the
Immersing visitors in five days of intense networking to discuss the latest
trends and business in the world of hospitality catering, Host welcomed
many facets of the increasingly widespread hybridisation of gelato, pastry and coffee.
more than 180,000 professionals, made up of international visitors from
Offering the opportunity for attendees to discover the most innovative
177 countries. The record crowd comprised purchasing managers and
machinery, as well as view practical demonstrations and discuss upcoming
decision-makers, notably including over 1,500 hosted global buyers with
trends, Host also featured a series of over 500 events including workshops,
specifically chosen profiles.
seminars, tasting sessions, show-cooking, round tables, exhibitions and
“Host is a success story that is almost unique in the international world
competitions.
of exhibitions and events,” comments Fabrizio Curci, CEO and Director
Further, key professionals from every sector, including Michelin-
General of Fiera Milano Spa.“With an increment of 24.3% in the number
starred chefs, mixology and coffee champions, master pastry chefs and
of professional visitors, Host confirms its status as a true world hub of the
gelato maestros appeared as part of the events programme to present
hospitality macro-sector, the place where its chains meet to mould the
their thoughts on innovation, technology and lifestyle trends in the
trends of tomorrow and to do business and network. In particular, the flows
F&B industry.
of foreign visitors are growing in double figures, reaching an increment of 20.4%. Decision-makers and buyers are also arriving from countries that
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www.host.fieramilano.it
SIDES
GRIF 2018 12th – 14th March 2018 Dubai
A
forum for the international restaurant investment community
opportunities, such as those related to mixed-use concepts, the rise of
and a platform to discover restaurant concepts looking to launch
boutique restaurant collections, authentic dining experiences, technology,
or expand, The Global Restaurant Investment Forum will return
innovation. At GRIF 2018, we will debate these topics and many more,
at Palazzo Versace Dubai for its 5th edition in March 2018.
helping attendees gain valuable insights from industry leaders, build
Welcoming more than 300 investors, owners, franchisors and senior
hospitality professionals to facilitate investment decision-making within the global restaurant space, GRIF is organised by Bench Events and powered by Michelin.
contacts, share best practices and gain confidence in the market.” The three-day event will also feature practical workshops and master classes, roundtable debates and culinary restaurant tours. “One of the key topics that emerged at our GRIF Advisory Board in London
GRIF aims to deliver inspiration, insight and opportunities to the
revolved around the current tensions between demands from investors for
leaders of the restaurant investment community via a thought-provoking
a scalable brand and the push from consumers for independent concepts,
conference programme assessing investment trends, restaurant
as highlighted by Nick Schapira, International Strategy and Development
innovations and consumer demand.
Director, Jamie Oliver Restaurant Group,” adds Pettinger-Haines. “Leading
“The global restaurant industry presents investors with some
brands are seeking to meet the needs of their customers by being more
challenging dynamics currently, with start-up finance, rent demands, the
flexible, but this presents a challenging scenario for investors keen to
social conscience, consumer brand loyalty, declining retail footfall and
minimise risk and maximise return. At GRIF, we’ll explore how to strike
the growth of food delivery models all posing potential impediments to
the right balance and ensure investor, brand and customer are satisfied.”
investment,” comments Jennifer Pettinger-Haines, Managing Director, Middle East, Bench Events. “At the same time, the industry is full of
www.restaurant-invest.com
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SIDES
Ambiente 9th – 13th February 2018 Frankfurt
A
mbiente will return in February 2018, bringing manufacturers,
design. The international product range extends across worldwide interior
planners, investors and consultants from across the F&B industry
designs, avant-garde furnishings, home accessories and items in all styles,
together at Festhalle Frankfurt.
including decorations for both indoor and outdoor spaces.
Showcasing a range of Horeca product lines – set to fuel a
Thomas Kastl, Dining Manager at Ambiente, emphasises the need to
sustainable increase in guests from the world of gastronomy, hotels and
keep pushing forward: “Ensuring that continuous change becomes part of
catering – the event is set to welcome 136,000 trade visitors and 4,400
one’s own DNA,” he says. “All you need to know is how to network with
international exhibitors.
the right market players, who will help impress your guests at a totally
With hospitality professionals highlighting their core and supplementary
new level.”
product assortments for the coming year, the fair features banquet utensils
Running parallel with the thematic areas will be a talks programme,
and small furnishings, with the product range covering all price points and
featuring experts from a variety of disciplines to discuss four trend worlds.
sectors – from lifestyle to premium.
Comprising Modest Regenerations, Colourful Intentions, Technological
Ambiente welcomes back the Dining, Giving, and Living areas, showcasing a compelling diversity of ideas, designs and inspiring
Emotions and Opulent Narrations, the talks will be held by the design studio and accompanied by exclusive guided tours.
highlights. The Dining area will comprise innovative products for the
Numerous events focusing on diverse industry themes make Ambiente
modern kitchen, alongside household appliances and equipment. The area
a central platform for contract business and the Horeca segment, bringing
is also a major meeting place for the Horeca sector, where specialist buyers
sourcing, business partners and concepts together at one location.
discuss innovative catering concepts. Further, the Living area highlights the ultimate in forward-looking
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www.ambiente.messefrankfurt.com
EVENT CALENDAR Table
ProWein
Imbibe Live
14th - 16th January 2018
18th - 20th March 2018
2nd - 3rd July 2018
London
Dusseldorf
London
Ambiente
FHA
Tales of the Cocktail
9th - 13th February 2018
25th - 27th April 2018
17th - 22nd July 2018
Frankfurt
Singapore
New Orleans
Hotelympia
NRA
The Hotel Show
5th - 8th March 2018
22nd - 24th May 2018
16th - 18th September 2018
London
Chicago
Dubai
GRIF
Bar Convent Brooklyn
Annual Hotel Conference
12th - 14th March 2018
12th - 13th June 2018
10th - 11th October 2018
Dubai
Brooklyn
Manchester
123
PETITS FOURS
The House Josiah Built Founded in the heyday in Britain’s Industrial Revolution, Wedgwood continues to be a pioneering force in ceramics, blending rich heritage with forward-thinking design.
Words: Kristofer Thomas
F
or over 250 years now, Wedgwood has created fine china and porcelain for clients including British
Dating back to 1759 and the heyday of Britain’s
royalty, Jane Austen and Catherine, Empress of
industrial revolution, Wedgwood’s longevity is equalled
Russia, to name but a few. Operating from the
only by the consistency of its quality, in the context
outskirts of Stoke-on-Trent, amidst the rolling hills and
of both design and manufacturing. With pioneering
fields of Barlaston, the historic brand has long orbited a
new methods of temperature measurement, industry-
philosophy that emphasises discovery, experimentation,
changing material blends and prescient marketing
reliability and aesthetic excellence, and lays claim
techniques, Wedgwood stakes a claim to be at the
to innovations such as the introduction of the rose
very heart of British pottery culture. Often drawing
engine turning lathe into pottery, an early technical
inspiration from ancient Roman, Japanese and Egyptian
machination of founder Josiah Wedgwood that remains
cultures for aesthetic guidance as well as channelling
widely used today.
a quintessentially British character, Wedgwood’s
“When we talk about hospitality there are two key ingredients, the shape and the decoration,” explains Dick Delaney, Design Director of Wedgwood and sister
124
We’ve got wonderful DNA in these aspects.”
widespread popularity echoed the expansive scope of its visual influences. During this time, Wedgwood worked with leading
brands Waterford and Royal Doulton, all of which fall
designers and artists including John Flaxman, Lady
under the WWRD umbrella. “We’ve got a portfolio of
Diana Beauclerk and Elizabeth Templetown, resulting
shapes that are classic and easy to use, and we’re really
in a consistently strong visual character. This continues
known for the quality of print we bring to the table.
today, with the brand collaborating with contemporary
Mythical Creatures, Kit Kemp
PETITS FOURS
“Twenty years ago hotels could have a very general collection of whiteware, or pick a collection to run with, but now it’s far more bespoke”
designers such as Jasper Conran, Kit Kemp and Lee Broom across a
tableware share equal billing with the venue, a testament to its integral
number of collections.
contribution to the experience.
Though the modern incarnation of the brand may differ in terms of
Likewise, Kit Kemp’s Mythical Creatures collection – featuring
size, scope and manufacturing volume, these sensibilities remain firmly
intricate gold rims and a design centred around delicate mysticism
in place, as does an intricate link to its storied past, exemplified through
– aids in enhancing the overall scheme within Firmdale Hotels’ Ham
a detailed on-site museum, visitor’s centre and extensive design archive.
Yard Hotel, creating a consistent yet subtle visual relationship between
Now offering a core collection of tableware and dedicated hospitality division alongside a bespoke service outfitting dining rooms within The
restaurant and offer. Though based on the core domestic collections, these ranges still bear
Langham, Brown’s Hotel and The Savoy, the Wedgwood of today has
the durability and premium quality of Wedgwood’s fine bone china, but
expanded the offer and scope of Josiah’s vision without sacrificing its
have been adapted with unique features of shape and surface relief to
quality or historic prestige.
add individual bespoke details and create tableware truly a hotel’s own.
“Twenty years ago hotels could have a very general collection of
“It’s about how the detail within the design frames the F&B without
whiteware, or pick a collection to run with, but now it’s far more
interfering,” says Catherine Brian, Airline Sales and New Product
bespoke,” Delaney continues. “You may have the core range you use,
Development Manager, Hospitality EMEA. “Both can be Hero.”
but these are now complemented and enhanced by accent pieces or an entirely unique collection.” The core offer includes bestseller Connaught, an elegant and simple
Afternoon tea as a market is one that Wedgwood has courted as of recent years with increasing focus, the aforementioned hotel-centred offers being just the tip of the teabag. An initiative with the Royal
classic bone china range with over 150 pieces; Vogue, with its graceful
Horticulture Society (founded by Josiah’s son in 1800) and John Lewis
table presence and high alumina construction; and the luxurious
will see the launch of The Wedgwood tea conservatory at the Peter Jones
Ethereal, perhaps the most contemporarily styled with its intricate
department store from 24 May – 16 June 2018, encouraging guests to try
fusion embossing and nature-inspired grain design.
exotic tea pairings within the intricate Wonderlust range, all overseen by
“In terms of approach to hospitality however, there is a dedicated
Wedgwood’s own tea sommelier Bernadine Tay. Inspired by the tropical
team,” notes Marcus Stadelmann, President, EMEA Living. “We have
plants and exotic influences discovered and brought back to the UK
our main collection, available through traditional means, but this new
during the Grand Tour of the 19th century, the project again expands the
proposition is another access point.”
Wedgwood offer whilst remaining inherently linked to its past.
This dedicated team oversees the creation and distribution of
“Aesthetically we’re seeing the return of nature,” Delaney notes.
Wedgwood products throughout the hospitality sphere, not just to hotels,
“Nature has been a big part of what we’ve designed and developed
but airline and cruise ships also. A different approach is taken here, one
over 260 years, and new lines like Wonderlust and Folio really
characterised by flexible customisation and property-specific details.
embody this.”
“There is a slightly different approach because these collections are
Whilst the hospitality offer appears in a collection of premium
unique to the hotel or restaurant we work with. We take the time to send
hotels worldwide, it is the bespoke service that adds the layer of
designers to the environment, meet the people, meet the chefs, look at
personalisation so desirable to today’s operators, allowing properties to
the food being served, and really pay attention to every detail,” Delaney
create unique tableware that embodies both their wider design aesthetic
continues. “They truly are collaborations between us and the hotel.”
and hints of character and identity.
The Langham Rose set, created especially for The Langham, London,
“When we talk about hospitality there’s a lot of practicality that
takes inspiration from the brand’s own archives, and the abundance of
comes into it,” Brian concludes. “I think hotels especially are still
nature-inspired visuals that appears throughout it, though incorporates
looking for that element of safeness and reliability, but, even within
subtle aesthetic hints drawn from the hotel’s dining space, its colour
these parameters there’s space for adventure.”
palette, the menu composition, and prominent ingredients. As such, Afternoon Tea With Wedgwood at the Langham sees the brand’s
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PETITS FOURS
Deco LSA
Inspired by refined shapes, linear metallic details, graphic motifs and fabric finishes, LSA’s Deco series epitomises its original approach to form, colour and decoration. Comprising assorted sets of eight porcelain tableware products, including champagne flutes and saucers, espresso cups, tumblers, wine goblets, dinner plates, teapots and soup bowls, the collection embellishes an eclectic mix of dÊcors, providing a modern twist on the classic metallic finishes of Art Deco. www.lsa-international.com
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Ruche
Karbon
Designed for the French tradition of art de la table, Ruche is a luxurious and decorative interpretation of a signature silverware motif that blends classicism and modernity. Born from an encounter between a silver cloche dome and straw beehive, the collection features a cover that lifts to reveal classic silverware arrayed in a black lacquered wood base. A tasteful addition to the traditional dining room, the series introduces elegance to sideboards, buffet tables and consoles in refined culinary environments.
Focusing on a combination of a matt black and crusty texture, RAK Porcelain’s Karbon series enables a playful contrast between lightness and darkness at the table. The range exists in round flat plates, deep plates, oval plates, as well as square and rectangular items including cups, saucers and bowls that can be added to complement. Karbon’s variety of colourways also sees the range coordinate with RAK Porcelain’s Neofusion and Metalfusion collections.
www.christofle.com
www.rakporcelain.com
Christofle
T-Collection
RAK Porcelain
Tea Pot
Heritage Collection
Tiger
Designed by Giuliano Malimpensa to reflect Italian craftsmanship, Tiger’s new T-collection offers vessels for chefs to enhance the imaginative aesthetic of petits fours. Available in two shapes, the tableware combines design experience with diligent manufacturing to create a practical product with a touch of elegance. The range can also be accompanied by Tiger’s modular buffet system Domino, and their selection of 18/10 stainless steel hollowware products for tasteful buffet presentation.
One of many new designs being specially produced for a new project to open in early 2018, Heritage Collection’s teapot joins a formidable range of traditional bar and restaurant equipment manufactured using a combination of handcrafted techniques and advanced software. The series will be introduced amongst the brand’s bespoke Afternoon Tea items, which comprises silver-plated and stainless steel tableware, and is currently featured at luxury properties including The Ritz, The Dorchester and The Lanesborough in London.
www.tigerhotel.co.kr
www.heritagesilverware.com
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Neolit Pulpo
Designed by London-based Studio Furthermore, made up of craftfocused creative duo Marina Dragomirova and Iain Howlett, Pulpo has produced a series of colourful serving vessels formed from a new technique whereby foam is dipped in liquefied ceramic and baked in order to solidify. Using a design method informed by technological research, science and culture, the collection can be combined with Sebastian Herkner’s high and low containers to create a vibrant culinary display. www.pulpoproducts.com
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Mixology
Timeless
Constructed from eco-friendly crystal glass, Luigi Bormioli’s venture into mixology glassware comprises a range of elegant bar vessels, including luxury takes on serving bottles, dash bottles and mixing glasses. Crafted to optimise drinks service and add a touch of opulence to the process, the Mixology collection is as much for guests as it is for bartenders. Inspired by early 20th century aesthetics, the range’s three Elixir dashes each have a capacity of 10cl.
An ever-modern take on the return of the classical trend, Pasabahce’s Timeless is a complete and versatile line with a design that echoes the elegance of crystal glasses from past eras. Adding a familiar sense of quality to the art of drinking, the eloquent glassware patterns are available in whiskey, liqueur and cocktail styles. On display at Host, the international hospitality exhibition, the series ranges in capacity from 6-45cl.
www.luigibormioli.com
www.pasabahce.com
Vero
Dante Onyx
Designed by Michael Boehm, Rosenthal’s Vero glassware collection ranges from appetiser, to long drink, to vodka glass and hand-blown beakers, and is designed as a functional statement evoking modern simplicity. Boasting a sphere-like ice container, Vero features a four-set of Double Old Fashioned glasses, providing mixologists with the perfect beaker for serving classic cocktails. The range can also be combined with the diVino, Estelle and Fuga collections to create a layered barware aesthetic.
Utopia’s Dante Collection has expanded to include a black colourway and statement jug, embodying a 1930s prohibition chic with a distinctive speakeasy style. The Dante Oynx glass, a heavily embossed black cocktail tumbler available in a 12oz and 13.5oz capacity, evokes the preserve of an early 90’s dinner party, where black tableware and textured metallics took precedence. Creating a unique shape and texture, the glass-cut design adds value to F&B offerings, enabling operators to present a premium serving.
Luigi Bormioli
Rosenthal
www.rosenthal.co.uk
Pasabahce
Utopia Tableware
www.utopia-tableware.com
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Ore
Bonna Bonna’s Ore collection features a reactive glaze tableware set displayed in a plethora of colours including tierra, dark blue and mar. Ranging from flat and deep serving plates to oval dishes and vanta bowls, Ore varies in depth to create a visually-rich layering aesthetic for restaurant tables. The range can also be accompanied with Bonna’s Bloom collection, an elegant coupe bowl series with three sizes in underglaze paint colours. www.bonna.com
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Catering Table La Tavola
La Tovola’s Catering Table is designed with interchangable modules to allow the creation of set-ups with different purposes including show-cooking, warm and cold display, mixology and beverage service. Leaning towards functionality, the series is fitted with durable casters for easy mobility, and can be assembled and deployed by two people in two minutes. The range is also accompanied by a series of bags for the table and durable cases for the functional modules. www.la-tavola.it
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Aquila
Atlantic Light
Timeless in its bold simplicity, Elia’s Aquila tableware collection defines contemporary cutlery with clean fluid lines and a handsome profile, while a generous handle emanates luxury and quality in the hand. Designed with both aesthetics and usability in mind, the series is forged in 18/10 stainless steel and tapers effortlessly from a robust triangular base to a defined curve, adding character and style as a dynamic statement.
The latest addition to John Jenkins’ Atlantic family, Atlantic Light features a series of five finely blown cocktail tumblers, bringing classic glassware designs into the modern cocktail environment. Ranging in capacity from 9-19oz, Atlantic Light is visually delicate and simplistic yet durable in service, and can be combined with John Jenkins’ range of barware from spiral champagne glasses and numbered bitters bottles, providing mixology professionals variety in their serve offerings.
Elia
John Jenkins
www.elia.co.uk www.johnjenkins.co.uk
Arctic
Stella Vogue
Inspired by a snow-coated landscape, Pordamsa’s Arctic tableware collection, moulded in pure white porcelain, defines subtlety and resistance using one material. Hand polished and distinguished by a soft texture, the serving plates degrade toward their centres in order to achieve a minimalist aesthetic and facilitate the dressing of the dish. The series is also perfectly stackable, dishwasher and oven safe, and easy to handle in both kitchen and restaurant spaces.
Designed to create a graceful and elegant atmosphere at grand dining tables, Stella Vogue features a white-on-white design finished with subtle highlights in sophisticated matt gold. Made from fine premium bone porcelain, its white relief décor in a round shape makes it ideal for largescale banquets, and gives attitude to fine dining and high-class buffets. Inspired by holiday occasions, the collection can be combined with other pieces from Villeroy & Boch’s hospitality division for a sophisticated layering aesthetic.
Pordamsa
Villeroy & Boch
www.pordamsa.com www.villeroy-boch.co.uk
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Temptaste Tafelstern
Designed using brush-stroked structures, Tafelstern’s Temptaste collection features a handmade rustic aesthetic that evokes artistic accents. The decorations are reminiscent of artistic techniques such as craquelé, and comprise swathes of colour including swirl, cove and carrara décor. Temptaste’s Ink décor pattern gives the impression of a fallen drop of blue ink in the centre of the coupe plate, contrasted by an untouched white porcelain rim that creates a counterpoint to the darker shades of foods. www.tafelstern.com
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Fantastic
Seltmann Weiden Designed to match Frilich’s Raiser collection as a new buffet concept, Seltmann Weiden’s Fantastic series is inspired by a serve-yourself philosophy of freestyle catering. Manufactured in porcelain and made up of four colourways, the versatile design can be used singularly or as a combination to create functionality, diversity and aesthetics that showcase culinary offerings, while an integrated cooling system keeps dishes fresh and attractively presented. www.seltmann.com
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Uniform Speak Lady and Butler
Bespoke uniform firm, Lady and Butler, translates the architecture and interior designs of properties into modern, sophisticated ‘vestments’ for hospitality staffers. From her home base in New York City, Barcelona-born Designer and Creative Director Eli Caner applies her runway-level designs to uniforms that complement the direction of popular restaurants and hotels around the globe. Caner has combined her design background and her love of travel into a vehicle to navigate the lag in available wearable and stylish uniforms for luxury boutique establishments. “I think of uniform design as a dialogue between the space, the staff and the customer,” says Caner. “We want to communicate fun and great style and we want to ensure durability, comfort and confidence for those who wear our product.” To date that conversation has captured the attention of the likes of The Standard Hotel (Miami), The Roosevelt Hotel (Los Angeles), Via Corota (New York) and Pierre Hermes (Paris). www.ladyandbutler.com
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PETITS FOURS
Hepburn Nude
Designed by industrial designer Brad Ascalon to inspire professional mixologists, the Hepburn series draws on the characteristics of Audrey Hepburn, creating a series that is fragile yet strong, elegant yet playful, simple and complex. Ranging from crafted decorative objects to statement glassware to softly shaped lighting, the collection consists of highball and lowball glasses, coupes, a pitcher with stirrer and a shaker, providing all the tools for mixologists to serve. www.nudeglass.com
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LaCimbali
S30 Perfect Touch The LaCimbali S30 Perfect Touch is the new superautomatic by LaCimbali, a Gruppo Cimbali brand. The Gruppo Cimbali is world leader in the design and production of professional machines for making coffee, cold milk-based beverages, soluble beverages and cafe equipment. The LaCimbali S30 features a revolutionary 10.4� touchscreen display, providing an innovative barista/ machine interface and an integrated bi-directional WiFi system that enables consumption data analysis, software updates, recipe control and personalisation of the onscreen images. The LaCimbali S30 dispenses an exciting assortment of drinks and can prepare both hot and cold frothed milk, so users are offered a wide, varied menu of recipes based on coffee, chocolate and hot or cold frothed milk. And there’s yet another innovative feature - the PGS Perfect Grinding System, which constantly monitors the dispensing parameters and automatically carries out any corrections made to dosage and grind, ensuring consistent dispensing times and outstanding extraction quality. www.cimbali.com
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Limbrey
Ajax
Inspired by original designs from the 1960s, Robert Welch’s salt & pepper shaker set is the latest addition to the Limbrey collection and acts as a space-saving addition to busy dining tables. Echoing a classic mid-century style, the curved hourglass shapes of the shakers diffuse and reflect light throughout their surroundings, whilst the contrasting warmth of walnut against a smooth bright stainless steel creates classic styling that fits with both traditional and contemporary settings.
With a design that dates back to the 1930s, the Ajax chef’s knife is the latest from Dick’s Red Spirit series. Balancing tradition and modernity with a new interpretation of a well-established style of blade, Ajax takes on an unusual shape reminiscent of a cleaver, and features a wide side and curved cutting edge to make it an indispensable tool for the processing of meat. With functionality at its core, the knife can also be hung easily thanks to a practical hole in the blade.
www.robertwelch.com
www.dick.de
Sky Bar
Flex
Bringing classic Georg Jensen styles to a modern bar set, the Sky Bar collection has been designed by Aurélien Barbry. The Nordic-inspired design is a unique and functional take on the classic serving dish, reimagining the double serving bowl to feature round, sensuous shapes with an asymmetrical and ergonomic style. Focusing on touch, feel and looks, Sky Bar is casual yet sophisticated, with each item a tactile delight in the hand.
Zieher’s Flex serving series boasts tubes of borosilicate glass, shaped into unique pieces by way of heat exposure. Designed with quality in mind, the artfully curved inside of the tubes offers creative space for cutlery or napkins, decorative herbs and edible blossoms. A rest for knives or chop sticks respectively, the Flex collection features fitting chopsticks made of borosilicate glass, which harmonically blends into this series with a satin surface that creates an appealing contrast to the clear glass of the rest.
www.georgjensen.com
www.zieher.com
Robert Welch
Georg Jensen
Dick
Zieher
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Modern Tableware Tina Frey
Following Tina Frey’s entrance into the hospitality industry with the Modern Tableware collection in resin, the design studio has translated its original shapes into a new material and introduced high polish stainless steel pieces including cups, bowls, plates, trays, vases and a champagne cooler. Hand sculpted by Tina Frey in San Francisco, the pieces are designed to be combined with the resin collection, and add luxury and elegance to tableware aesthetics whilst retaining functionality in outdoor, poolside and bathrooms spaces. www.tinafreydesigns.com
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ADVERTISING INDEX
41 Madison
Robert Welch
004 & 005
absolute lifestyle
083
Seltmann Weiden
059
Blenheim Palace
067
Sleeper Magazine
110
Bonna 093
Stรถlzle 148
Brintons 091
Supper Magazine
145
011
Tafelstern 033
FHA 109
Tiger 049
Goodfellow & Goodfellow
Tina Frey
015
GRIF 119
To The Table - Asia 2018
080
HEPP 023
To The Table - Europe 2018
050
Hotelympia 105
Villeroy & Boch
045
Corby Hall
012
Ingrid Lesage
040
Walco 043
John Jenkins
029
Waterford 103
Kalisher 002
Wedgwood 147
099
Zieher 047
Lady & Butler LSA
144
115
006 & 007
CONTACT TO ADVERTISE OR SUBSCRIBE: SUPPER@MONDIALE.CO.UK TEL: +44(0)161 476 5580 WWW.SUPPERMAGAZINE.CO.UK
Image: Rüya, Grosvenor House Dubai Photography: Hyku D Photography
THE WASHING UP
Delivering the Experience David Edwards, Managing Director, JPA Design Singapore
A
s designers in Asia, we’ve always faced a moving
more than just the taste and packaging of what’s delivered to
target in terms of satisfying the ever-evolving tastes
your door. Genuine customer engagement in the Asian context
and expectations of consumers across this diverse
necessitates an image that goes beyond the quality of the food
region. The projects we choose to take on typically
- a visual identity that conveys an experience, and a physical
dictate the ease or difficulty in hitting that target. In opting
premises that delivers on that promise, reinforcing the brand
to work with independent owners and visionary hoteliers on
with seductive interiors that define an ambience that can’t be
unique, locally-developed restaurant and bar concepts, we
delivered on a bike or conveyed through an Instagram photo.
choose to forego the relative safety of repetitive design for
It’s understandable then, that when a restaurant has
global franchises, and instead embrace the creative challenge
succeeded in drawing a customer across its threshold, today’s
of a more bespoke and prescient approach. While the rewards
patron expects ever-increasing levels of theatre. Beyond
for successful, independent concepts are potentially high, so
great-tasting food, the restaurant must deliver on another
are the risks, with the Asian consumer’s love of the ‘next
level, and as designers we play a key role in orchestrating a
big thing’ leading to high attrition rates. Consequently, the
unique experience, that justifies the customer getting up off
quality of our creative input has always been vital in giving
the sofa and through their front door. Our role is to facilitate
each venture the best chance of success. Recent consumer
the delivery of that theatrical experience, by crafting the
trends in Asia could be viewed as diminishing the significance
physical space to provide a fitting and compelling backdrop
of design’s role in that process, but for independent concept
to the culinary process. In Asia, as elsewhere, ‘craft’ is
restaurants the contrary looks to be the case.
the buzzword of today, as customers invest more of their
Until relatively recently, it was a given that a visit to a
attention - and money - on the expertise and craftsmanship
restaurant was necessary to sample its menu. In a continent
in well-made food and drink, and we must continuously
so passionate about cuisine, great food (or its branding) had
reinforce that with our creative investment in their tangible
the potential to drive footfall, even when the aesthetics and
surroundings.
ambience of the physical space may have been unremarkable.
As new trends in restaurants and food service emerge
That landscape has changed, and yesterday’s table-
across this diverse region, the quality of the designer’s vision,
of-four are likely today to be among the many discerning
creativity and delivery is what will justify their sustained role
customers fuelling the huge growth in third-party food
in the dialogue. We must continue to relish every opportunity
delivery providers - happy to order their ‘meals on wheels’
to work with owners and operators who see the potential in
from restaurants of a calibre that previously would not have
locally developed concepts targeting genuine opportunities,
been associated with anything other than formal table service.
and who recognise the strong, competitive advantage a well-
While it might be expected that this trend would diminish the
designed and well thought-out interior can offer.
designer’s role in the success of a restaurant, the reverse is true, with the performance of these ventures depending on far
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T h e H O S P I T A L I T Y C oll e ctio n
5962 Gio Supper Ad.indd 3
05/12/2017 13:59