Supper - Issue 17

HOTEL FOOD & DRINK

ALLEGRA - LONDON • TOM KERRIDGE • ELECTRIC LEMON - NEW YORK

For the first time a line of glasses designed by somebody who uses them first-hand and expects a perfect performance. Maurizio Filippi - Best Italian Sommelier AIS 2016 - used all his expertise as a sommelier and restaurateur to create the soft and “human� lines of these wine glasses, without neglecting to take into account practical aspects that are important for potential buyers. Only six wine glasses and two water glasses to meet the needs of all professionals in the sector and of all wines produced in the world.

Pure sensations translated into an elegant philosophy: this what you will find in the small booklet detailing his thinking and, most of all, the correct use of this natural line full of elegance and beauty. .

CONTENTS ISSUE 17 STARTERS

044

037

© BWM Architekten / Severin Wurnig

046

Union 037 The Opposite House Beijing

II Palazzo Experimental

038

Li Long

040

Venice

Waldorf Astoria Ithaafushi Maldives

Sparrow 042 The Dalmar Fort Lauderdale

Salon Sacher © Sam A. Harris

© Owen Raggett

Hotel Sacher Vienna

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052

MAIN COURSES Allegra 046 The Stratford London

Electric Lemon Equinox Hotel New York

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Cultureplex 058 Native Manchester

064

Rubbish Cooks

070

Grand Resort Bad Ragaz Switzerland

University Arms Cambridge

© Jason Varney

Memories

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CONTENTS ISSUE 17 020

SERVICE A Fresh Start

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Ace Bartender

028

During an exclusive tour of his Marlow outposts, British chef Tom Kerridge talks humble beginnings, Michelin stars and expanding to Manchester.

Jeffrey Morgenthaler, the prolific drinks writer who manages two bars at Ace Hotel Portland, on why bartenders should never quit their day-jobs.

DINING In a Pickle

074

A growing number of chefs at London’s top hotels are turning to homemade pickles and ferments to help differentiate their cuisine.

Four Seasons Pop Down London 080 028

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The experiential series lands in Camden, showcasing the talents of 15 top chefs and bartenders from Four Seasons properties around the world.

Epicurean Experiences

084

Going Green

088

Combining a passion for gastronomy with thoughtful and holistic design solutions, Goddard Littlefair launches a dedicated new F&B agency. © Jeffrey Morgenthaler

As customers increasingly call on hotels to reduce their carbon footprints, suppliers are springing into action by launching a host of premium ecofriendly products.

SIPPING

REGULARS Entrée 013

Spotlight 122

Appetisers 017

Petits Fours

Signatures

Washing-Up 138

093

Cocktails 109 Drinks 113 Events 119

004

125

Gin, Tonic and a Room for Two

096

Raise Your Glass

102

Hotels around the world are succesfully tapping into their guests’ growing interest in discovering high-quality gins.

Properties are increasingly looking to procure glassware that is both stylish and practical, and premium brands are responding accordingly.

PR

EM

IUM

PERFECT MI XE

RS

PREMIUM TONIC W AT E R

DON’T PRETEND TO BE ORIGINAL,

BE THE ORIGINAL www.theoriginaltonic.com

Refinement and precision for your guest dining experience L COUTURE COLLECTION made in limoges

Visit us at Ambiente - Hall 4.1 - Stand B51 / www.pro.degrenne.fr

ENTRÉE

© Sam A. Harris ON THE COVER Terrine served with fresh bread at Allegra, The Stratford, London

Reconnecting with Mother Nature

H

otels have not always enjoyed the closest of

Handelsmann; and in Parker’s Tavern at University Arms in

relationships with the natural world. For decades,

Cambridge, the team has launched a monthly supper club

many properties prided themselves on being able to

designed to highlight the issue of food waste. We also learn

offer the same international standards to guests and locals

how forward-thinking suppliers are rising to the challenge

alike, regardless of where on the planet they happened to

by, for instance, developing eco-friendly ranges made from

be located. It was an attitude frequently echoed in their

recycled glass or natural materials.

F&B venues, where restaurants in Singapore or Sydney, for

Here at Sleeper Media, as our sister magazine reaches

example, were expected to produce a crunchy Caesar salad to

its 20th anniversary, we have been looking at ways we can

the exact same specifications as one in San Francisco; rarely

reduce our own impact on the environment. As you may have

if ever did anybody stress the potential benefits of embracing

noticed, this latest issue is being delivered in more sustainable

local ingredients and seasonal produce, or talk about the need

packaging – compostable potato starch for our mailing-list

to reduce food miles and eliminate kitchen waste.

recipients, and a more robust recyclable cardboard package

Fast-forward to 2019, however, and a new generation of

for our paying subscribers.

hotel F&B professionals has successfully ushered in a revolution

This ‘Sleeper 2020’ initiative will also see a range of

of sorts, one whose mantra is all about encouraging guests

improvements to our digital offer in the coming months,

to engage with their immediate surroundings and celebrate

which I will be overseeing in my new role as Online Editor

nature’s bounty. A perfect case in point is acclaimed chef

of Sleeper Media, with a new team member, Jenna Campbell,

Tom Kerridge, who tells us how he has managed to elevate

taking on the role of Assistant Editor. I look forward to working

traditional British classics into Michelin-star territory by

closely together with Managing Editor Catherine Martin, our

working hand in hand with local suppliers – and incorporating

Consulting Editor Heleri Rande, and the rest of the team to

produce from his own butchers – at luxurious properties

ensure Supper continues to serve the hotel food and drink

such as Corinthia Hotel in London and the forthcoming Stock

community both in print and online.

Exchange in Manchester.

Indeed, this issue of Supper is full of similarly inspiring stories. At Electric Lemon, the main restaurant space within the inaugural Equinox Hotel in New York, Executive Chef Kyle Knall is building relationships with farmers at the top of their game, ensuring he gets unfettered access to the finest ingredients around; over at the Allegra restaurant at The Stratford in London, the kitchen makes liberal use of ingredients grown on a nearby farm owned by developer Harry

Richard Frost • Online Editor

013

THE BRIGADE

@suppermag

EDITORIAL

ADVERTISING

DESIGN

Editor-in-Chief Matt Turner

Advertising Manager Rachel Chadwick

Design Manager David Bell

Managing Editor Catherine Martin

Account Manager Grace O’Leary

Production Zoe Willcox

Online Editor Richard Frost

EVENTS & MARKETING

FINANCE

Assistant Editor Jenna Campbell

Brand Director Amy Wright

Finance Director Amanda Giles

Assistant Editor Kristofer Thomas

Events Manager Lela Rose Keighley

Group Financial Controller Sarah Healey

Assistant Editor Ben Thomas

Senior Events & Marketing Executive Millie Allegro

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PORTFOLIO

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Editorial Assistant Donna Salek

d.salek@mondiale.co.uk

Consulting Editor Heleri Rande heleri@hrande.com

a.wright@mondiale.co.uk

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Data & Circulation Co-ordinator Hayley Redston

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APPETISERS

T

he subject of tipping within the hospitality

people interpret this in different ways, which

sector has long been a source of contention,

only exacerbates confusion,” says Peter Davies,

rooted in ambiguity and cultural inertia.

Client Service Partner and Managing Director of

However, in recent years those lobbying

WMT Troncmaster Services. Following this, and

for reform have made significant headway,

more than three years after the UK Government

attracting attention from industry leaders and

published the findings of its consultation into

legislators keen to help both frontline staff and

tips, gratuities, cover and service charges, it was

management, while also allaying the concerns of

announced that a bill would be brought forward

members of the public for whom the etiquette of

requiring employers to pass on all tips to workers

leaving gratuities remains unclear.

in full and on a fair and transparent basis.

The custom can be traced back to 17th century

Meanwhile, in the US, Union Square Hospitality

Britain, with the word ‘tip’ thought to be an

Group’s highly regarded CEO, Danny Meyers,

acronym for ‘To Insure Promptitude’. While the

famously eliminated tipping altogether across

practice differs between cultures – a gratuity

his restaurants in 2015, arguing that the practice

may well be automatically added to a bill when

was unfair towards kitchen workers. Lauded in

dining in the US, whereas this can be frowned

some quarters as the catalyst that would save the

Tipping Point Leading figures from across the hospitality industry are now taking practical steps to improve how tips are distributed between workers.

upon in Japan and China – for many, the habit

hospitality industry, no less, he later admitted

is deeply ingrained. This is certainly true in the

in 2018 that the move resulted in 30% to 40% of

UK, where businesses follow a voluntary tipping

his “legacy front-of-the-house staff” quitting.

system which does not require them to pass service charges over to staff.

Of course, the switch to a cashless society seen in many countries around the world has also had

Research by consultancy firm EP Business

a major impact on tipping. In response, Alex

in Hospitality has highlighted the scale of the

Moore, co-founder of fast-growing restaurant

problem; in its study, only 31% of hospitality

chain Rosa’s Thai, and James Brown, Retail

companies surveyed reported sharing 100% of

Director of influential craft brewer Brewdog,

gratuities with staff, compounding the sentiment

have developed Tipjar - a cashless, peer-to-peer

that there is an alarming lack of consistency

app that allows customers to transfer a gratuity

across the industry.

directly to staff members.

In a bid to end the confusion, EP and tip

Improvements like these may perhaps go some

distribution agent WMT Troncmaster Services

way towards tackling the confusion around the

recently launched a new industry body to

subject by empowering customers and ensuring

monitor and accredit best practice, with Jon

hotels know exactly what is expected. After

Dawson from Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group

several false starts down the years, it seems the

and Gioele Camarlinghi of the European Hotel

hospitality industry may now be ready to work

Managers Association included among the

together to ensure tips are always distributed

impressive line-up of board members. “The

fairly and transparently.

wording used by hospitality firms in relation to service charges has always been vague and

017

I

t used to be the case that racking up loyalty points

having a masterclass with the chef himself, as

from nights spent at hotels would only earn

well as doing a cocktail workshop, and enjoying

guests a small discount on a future booking or,

tasting menus with wine pairings at Michelin-

if they were lucky, a complimentary extra night’s

starred duo M.B. and Kabuki.

stay. By contrast, Marriott International’s new

Alternatively, members might be tempted

travel programme offers a range of incentives

to bid for a masterclass with Michel Roth, the

that are anything but ordinary. Marriott Bonvoy,

renowned French chef at Hotel President Wilson

which has replaced Marriott Rewards, The Ritz-

in Geneva. This is to be followed up by a workshop

Carlton Rewards and Starwood Preferred Guest,

at chocolatier La Bonbonnière, a tasting menu at

gives users access to perks like welcome gifts,

the Arabesque Lebanese restaurant and an eight-

free internet and late check-outs. Meanwhile,

course dinner at Bayview, Roth’s elegant temple

the Marriott Bonvoy Moments scheme goes even

to haute cuisine.

further, enabling members to bid on exclusive

Francis Peniego, Carles Abellán, Paco Pérez

money-can’t-buy experiences, including a series

and Sven Everfeld are also due to take part before

of culinary adventures with some of the biggest

the end of the year – an impressive rollcall of

names in the industry.

talent if ever there was one. Incidentally, the

Magic Moments Marriott International’s new loyalty scheme offers exclusive culinary experiences with the world’s finest chefs.

To provide a taste of things to come, Marriott

highest winning bid to date was for a three-

International recently revealed that seven top

night stay at a private estate in Grand Cayman, a

chefs had agreed to take part in the scheme before

boat excursion, and a masterclass with Michelin-

the end of 2019, with many more expected to

starred Chef Bouley, which sold for a mammoth

follow in 2020. Each experience features a multi-

2 million points.

course dinner at a Michelin-starred restaurant; a

It is still early days, of course, but what already

chef masterclass or meet and greet; a minimum

seems clear is that Marriott Bonvoy Moments

two-night stay for two at properties such as

has tapped into a wider industry trend in which

Ritz-Carlton, St. Regis and W Hotels; and special

travellers are becoming less motivated by

local experiences curated by culinary experts.

monetary incentives and increasingly tempted by

Kick-starting proceedings is a cooking

experiential rewards instead. With its guests now

masterclass with acclaimed chef Miguel Navarro

seeking out more unique experiences, Marriott

at The St. Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort,

International has created an industry-leading

followed by lunch with wine pairings, a market

scheme worthy of its global profile, whilst

tour, a private visit of the Treuer olive oil cellar

making full use of its hotels, local knowledge

and a full tasting dinner experience at award-

and F&B contacts. Going forward, other hotels

winning restaurant Es Fum. Another package,

will obviously need to offer a lot more than just

this time at The Ritz-Carlton, Abama in Tenerife,

discount codes and cut-price deals in order to

is built around the legendary Martín Berasategui,

retain the loyalty of their customers.

a man who has done more than most to turn Basque cuisine into the envy of the world in recent years; participants can look forward to

018

VISION

visit us: Hospitality Doha, QT 12.11. - 14.11.2019 booth B-12 (with Royal Hospitality)

W W W . Z I E H E R . C O M

A Fresh Start During an exclusive tour of his Marlow outposts, British chef Tom Kerridge talks humble beginnings, Michelin stars and expanding to Manchester.

Words: Ben Thomas

“I

t was an accident! I went into a kitchen as

being a chef is about much more than just

an 18-year-old needing a job and just started

cooking. It’s having an understanding of people

washing up,” says chef Tom Kerridge, sipping

management, costs and control, but more

a freshly made brew as he welcomes us to

importantly your guest. You learn more about

The Shed, his dedicated private dining room

those aspects by being in a place for longer.”

in the centre of Marlow, Buckinghamshire.

To revive The Hand & Flowers, Kerridge

“It was the space, the people and the industry

enlisted the help of two other chefs in the

that I fell in love with straight away. Chefs are

kitchen, his wife Beth (who would be in charge of

like naughty boys – I was with people who I

running front of house), his best friend (behind

knew from school, except there was fire and

the bar) and one part-time waitress. A small

knives, so it was cool.”

team, perhaps, but that did not get in the way of

Since his first stint behind the stoves as

his ambitions for the project: “From the outset,

Commis Chef at Calcot Manor in Gloucestershire,

we aimed to cook great food at an accessible

Kerridge has enjoyed an impressive career,

price point that meant that it was comfortable

working with the likes of Stephen Bull and

for people to come in,” he reflects. And come

Gary Rhodes, and producing a number of TV

they did. The venue quickly gained a reputation

programmes and cookbooks. Inspired to take on

for its bold yet unpretentious dishes, receiving

the culinary world by fellow British chef Marco

a Michelin star just ten months after opening

Pierre White, who he claims blew him away by

its doors, before going on to gain a second in

“changing the way the industry was perceived

2011 – the only pub in the UK operating at this

and making it a cool space to be in”, the

level. “I wanted to take away the idea that

Wiltshire-born cook learnt his craft at Odette’s

Michelin stars were all about French waiters and

in Primrose Hill, Monsieur Max in Hampton Hill

tablecloths, and create somewhere warm and

and Adlards in Norwich, before deciding it was

comfortable,” Kerridge adds. “For many of our

time to open his own place in 2005, launching

guests, it’s their first experience of a Michelin-

The Hand & Flowers in Marlow with the help of

starred restaurant, so it takes away people’s fear

his wife Beth.

because they understand pubs. That warmth of

“I didn’t move around too much as a chef,”

hospitality is key to everything that we do.”

he continues. “For me, a year is never long

With Head Chef Jamie May now running

enough, you can learn recipes and a dish, but

the kitchen day-to-day and 65 employees on

SERVICE

SERVICE

The Hand & Flowers offers bold yet unpretentious dishes such as a classic pork pie with pickled onion

the payroll, as well as 11 individually designed bedrooms across three cottages in the centre of Marlow, The Hand & Flowers’ reputation continues to grow and grow. And he has even managed to repeat the trick, launching The Coach in 2014 – a relaxed pub where a long steel-topped bar and comfortable leather

“Every project we’ve ever done has always had a foundation, a history and a heritage.”

the building it occupies, which witnessed the ups and downs of bull and bear markets in its previous life. Headed up by Executive Chef Dan Scott, the space is expected to blur the boundaries between elegance and informality with a menu reflecting Kerridge’s distinctive culinary ethos.

seating overlook a large open kitchen to create

Divided into three stages: ‘First’, ‘Second’

greater interaction between chef and guest. Led

and ‘Third’, with the team recommending

by Tom De Keyser, the pub became an instant

four to five plates per person, the restaurant

success for its menu of refined dishes and

will serve favourites such as mushroom risotto

refreshments – signatures include The Coach

Claude Bosi; The Coach burger with smoked

burger with pulled pork and dill pickle; smoked

brisket and dill pickle; and chicken Kiev with

haddock and Ogleshield tart with Autumn

cauliflower cheese, together with a mouth-

truffle; and The Coach profiteroles with soured

watering selection of signatures like smoked

vanilla cream – taking home three AA Rosettes

chicken and ham hock terrine with piccalilli;

within its first year of trading, before following

crispy pig’s head with celeriac rémoulade and

in the footsteps of The Hand & Flowers by

spiced date sauce; and hot chocolate tart with

gaining a Michelin star in 2017.

hazelnut ice cream.

In the same year, Kerridge further expanded

Meanwhile, those looking for an after-work

his Marlow portfolio with the launch of The

cocktail can tip their hat to Antony Peart, Bar

Butcher’s Tap, which operates as a butchers and

Manager at The Hand & Flowers, who has designed a drinks menu honouring British

bar during the day, and offers a simple meatled menu alongside beers, wines and spirits

And it’s these sorts of flourishes that first

distilleries and Manchester’s local brewing

come evening. Here, he partners with friend

caught the eye of Gary Neville, the former

scene – though Kerridge insists that Marlow-

Andy Cook, who has been providing The Hand

professional footballer-turned-hotelier, who

based brands will also be present: “We want to

& Flowers with first-class produce for nearly

spotted the opportunity to collaborate with

bring a part of that Marlow soul to Manchester

ten years.

Kerridge when planning a new boutique hotel

with Rebellion Brewery, but also use as many of

Next up, Kerridge tasked Nick Beardshaw – a

in Manchester. Fast-forward a matter of

the small craft brewers in the city as possible,”

colleague for many years, initially as Sous Chef at

months and the chef himself was stood in the

he says. “For me, real ale is as exciting as

The Hand & Flowers, and more recently as Head

city’s former Stock Exchange building, awe-

wine. The people who brew ale have the same

Chef of The Coach – with overseeing the menu

inspired by its potential: “We walked into the

attitude towards brewing as winemakers,

at Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, which became his first

building and immediately fell in love with the

they’re all artisanal. So, we’ll be looking at

London outpost when it opened in September

space,” he admits. “Every project we’ve ever

every opportunity for small British producers

2018. Located in the heart of Corinthia Hotel,

done has always had a foundation, a history

that do great stuff to be showcased.”

the restaurant adopts the same signature style

and a heritage, whether that be pubs, people,

Locally inspired details will also be evident

that brought the chef a wealth of success in

suppliers, producers. When you walk into the

in a refined colour palette taking its cue from

Marlow, serving refined takes on classic British

Stock Exchange, it’s exactly the same.”

Manchester’s iconic worker bee, complementing the

restaurant’s

striking

Edwardian

dishes, albeit within a grand, high-ceilinged

Not long after, it was announced that

space seating 90 covers. Taking cues from the

Kerridge would partner with Neville, former

architecture, elegant green curved banquettes

menu at The Coach, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill uses

teammate Ryan Giggs and hotelier Winston

and comfortable leather armchairs. Plus, the

a striking rotisserie to roast large joints of meat,

Zahra to operate the F&B spaces within the 40-

menus and beer mats will be illustrated with

fish and root vegetables in front of diners, while

key property, which is set to open in November

hand-drawn sketches of the people who make

a number of the main restaurant’s walls feature

as a Relais & Châteaux member. Suitably placed

it unique – suppliers, chefs, servers and punters

fridges showcasing hanging meat supplied by

within the hotel’s grand domed dining room –

– all of whom are a big part of the overall

The Butcher’s Tap, as well as personal touches

previously used as the trading floor of the Stock

story. Although Kerridge is quick to quash any

in the form of curated artworks from his wife.

Exchange – The Bull & Bear lends its name to

suggestion of running themed dishes or events.

023

SERVICE

“The Manchester food scene is incredible and growing, it’s probably one of the most talkedabout in the UK right now because of its vibrancy and warmth.”

Kerridge’s Bar & Grill serves traditional British dishes within a grand, high-ceilinged space accommodating 90 covers

“You can rest assured that there will be no Hacienda, Happy Mondays or Stone Roses

scale producers, as well as the people we’ve already built relationships with.”

themes, it’s just going to be more of what we

Such relationships within the industry stood

do best,” he laughs. “We’ve tried really hard to

Kerridge in good stead when first developing his

make sure we can provide exceptionally good

vision for The Bull & Bear; the chef consulted

food at an accessible price point. We’re not

established names like Gary Usher, Will Beckett

aiming at being Manchester’s most expensive

and Simon Rimmer before deciding to make the

restaurant, but also not the cheapest. It’s going

move up north, allowing him to paint a picture

to be the right price for the space within that

of the kind of venue Manchester’s city dwellers

beautiful hotel.”

have been craving. “There were absolutely zero

On top of operating The Bull & Bear,

negatives at all from Gary, Will or Simon,” he

Kerridge’s team will also oversee The Bank,

reveals, praising the trio’s continued work in

offering private dining experiences for up to

and around the city. “The Manchester food

14 guests, and The Vault, catering for private

scene is incredible and growing, it’s probably

events of up to 120 covers. The former will host

one of the most talked-about in the UK right

culinary masterclasses and boast its own wine

now because of its vibrancy and warmth. That

cellar, which he believes will set the hotel apart

being said, its guests are far more interested in

in the city: “The wine list is going to be very

whether new restaurants are actually enjoyable

diverse and eclectic,” he says. “Charles and

places to eat.”

Oliver, my main sommeliers at Kerridge’s, along

Given his record with the Michelin Guide in

with Gavin who works at The Hand & Flowers,

the past, might Kerridge be hoping to replicate

were all involved in putting together the list for

the success of Mana – which has just secured

Manchester, which will feature new and small-

Manchester its first Michelin star in more

© Kensington Leverne

024

SERVICE

“Irrespective of where you are in the country, hospitality is all about providing value for money, working hard and being nice.”

The menu at The Bull & Bear includes signatures like crispy pig’s head with celeriac rémoulade and spiced date sauce

026

than 40 years – by adding yet another star

and restaurants – he admits in the same breath

to his collection? Actually, no. Instead, the

that it is hard to ignore the city’s flourishing

chef explains that he is more worried about

F&B sector, perhaps evident in his recently

portraying the former Stock Exchange in the

announced collaboration with boyhood club

best possible light, as well as developing his

Manchester United to take over Old Trafford’s

staff, and providing diners with a memorable

food offering on matchdays: “Ten years ago,

experience: “Simple things in hospitality

not just Manchester but the whole of the

are sometimes forgotten,” he muses, before

country thought somewhere was only good if

assuring us that in his eyes every guest is equally

it was featured in the Michelin guidebooks,”

important. “Irrespective of where you are in the

he reflects. “But over the last ten years, the

country, hospitality is all about providing value

understanding of what makes great food has

for money, working hard and being nice. It’s not

completely changed. Great food is about the

about the ego of the chef or the menu, it’s about

produce being looked after and cooked properly.

the guest. The guidebook writes the guidebook

That softening of the British food scene, making

for the guest to read, not the chef.”

sure it’s seen as an exciting place, means that the

The customer is king, as they say, and while

market in cities like Manchester, Nottingham,

Kerridge insists he isn’t looking to build a

Liverpool or Bristol is bubbling away, and isn’t

culinary empire – claiming that Manchester

just led by country-house hotels – there’s so

will be his final venture into the realm of pubs

much more to it.”

The perfect finish

WMF Professional | wmf-professional.com

Š Jeffrey Morgenthaler

SERVICE

Ace Bartender Jeffrey Morgenthaler, the prolific drinks writer who manages two bars at Ace Hotel Portland, discusses why bartenders should never quit their day-jobs.

Words: Richard Frost • Photography: © Dylan + Jeni (unless otherwise stated)

W

hen a new cocktail bar

cocktail-making since 2004, and is speaking to

first hits upon a winning

us shortly before delivering a headline-grabbing

formula – securing a

presentation during London drinks industry

loyal following, garnering

conference P(our) Symposium looking at how

industry

the business has changed since the ‘90s.

acclaim

and

winning awards – it won’t

“I’ve been working full-time behind the bar for

be long before the offers start flooding in. The

23 years, 40 hours a week,” says Morgenthaler,

head barman may be invited to do guest slots

as we catch up with him backstage. “There’s

elsewhere, judge competitions, write books,

this idea that it’s impossible to accomplish

speak in public, work as a brand ambassador,

great things in the industry unless you quit

consult on other openings or get involved

bartending, and I’m here to say that’s not

in a million and one other projects. At some

true.” It’s clearly a subject close to his heart;

point, they might even reach the stage where

throughout our conversation, he comes across

they seriously consider quitting the day-job

as naturally opinionated – with strong and

altogether, leaving behind the bar that helped

entertaining views on every topic under the

make their name in order to grasp all of these

sun – and sure enough there is not a moment’s

exciting opportunities with both hands.

hesitation when we ask what he’d say to those

Jeffrey Morgenthaler, however, is on a one-

looking to enjoy a successful career in the drinks

man mission to persuade the next generation of

industry: “If you really want to rise to the top,

talent to resist that temptation. The influential

not just gain a bunch of meaningless Facebook

48-year-old knows what he’s talking about too:

likes or whatever, my advice would be don’t quit

not only is he Bar Manager of highly regarded

your bartending job.”

duo Clyde Common and Pépé Le Moko at Ace

Morgenthaler, who grew up in Monterey,

Hotel Portland, he has also been writing about

California, landed his first role behind the bar

in 1996. The job in question involved pouring

and decided to drop everything else to focus

second half of the 20th century instead – pours

pints at a rundown neighbourhood tavern in the

on it – or, as he once memorably wrote, “lord

like Long Island Iced Tea and Blue Hawaii. “I

city of Eugene, Oregon, where he was studying

knows I’m here because I’m running away from

wasn’t interested in doing Prohibition-era,

for a degree in interior architecture, and the

a career in architecture”.

speakeasy cocktails,” he explains matter of

scale of his ambition back then was limited

It was a risky move, undoubtedly, but the

factly. “I just find them extremely boring. And it

to just making enough money to support his

decision to keep doing what he loved paid off

was 2014, that ship had sailed five years prior.”

studies, and hopefully getting to know some

handsomely when he was offered the chance

Today, Morgenthaler leads a team of nine

members of the opposite sex. “I thought it’d

to work at an up-and-coming restaurant in

bartenders across Clyde Common and Pépé Le

be cool, I thought it’d be a way to meet women,”

Ace Hotel Portland, one of Oregon’s coolest

Moko, and he also has a slew of personal awards

he says ruefully. “But no women came to this

addresses. Excited by the prospect of being

under his belt, including being named both

bar, it was mostly just hard-drinking men.”

able to reach a much wider audience than

American Bartender of the Year and Best Cocktail

Undeterred, he stayed there for four years, before

was possible in Eugene, he duly accepted the

and Spirits Writer at the Spirited Awards in 2016.

eventually leaving to tend bars everywhere

challenge and joined Clyde Common, a seasonally

This impressive double win neatly encapsulates

from nondescript pool halls and nightclubs to

inspired establishment owned separately from

the twin tracks that he has built his career on,

upmarket lounges and restaurants. “For me,

the hotel, in 2009. Here, he mixes drinks like

for unusually among mixologists he seems

there’s never been a big difference between

Strawberry-Aperol Spritz (Aperol, strawberry,

every bit as comfortable writing about cocktails

pulling pints and making high-end cocktails,”

cava and water) and Dagobah System (rye

as making them. Down the years, he has penned

he reflects. Slowly, he came to the conclusion

whiskey, Fernet-Branca, lime and house-

engaging and informative articles for countless

that bartending was his true passion in life,

made ginger beer) designed to complement,

publications – including as a regular columnist

rather than overshadow, the dishes coming out

at Playboy and Food Republic – and he has

of the bustling open kitchen – “the cocktails

authored two books. The Bar Book: Elements of

are meant to be easy to drink, sessionable,

Cocktail Technique teaches enthusiasts how to

interesting certainly, but not too fussy,” he

master essential skills like juicing, carbonating,

says. That approach seems to be working

shaking, chilling and garnishing, while Drinking

too, with the venue having been nominated

Distilled: A User’s Manual instructs amateurs on

in the ‘Outstanding Bar Program’ category of

how to order cocktails, share a beverage with

the James Beard Awards on no fewer than six

the boss and successfully navigate airport bars

occasions, and being crowned Best American

in typically wry fashion.

“There’s this idea that it’s impossible to accomplish great things in the industry unless you quit bartending, and I’m here to say that’s not true.”

030

Hotel Bar and Best American Restaurant Bar at

However, it’s the enormously well-read

the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards in 2014

blog on his eponymous website for which

and 2018 respectively.

Morgenthaler is arguably best known; he has

In 2014, Morgenthaler also oversaw the launch

been dispensing a constant stream of how-to

of Pépé Le Moko, a 36-seat basement bar jointly

guides, tips and tricks online for the last 15 years,

owned by the hotel and the team behind Clyde

and in the process helped inspire countless

Common. Its coved ceiling, distressed concrete

bartenders around the world. Whenever he

walls (decorated with risqué vintage polaroids)

perfects a particular cocktail in Clyde Common

and moody lighting create a decidedly intimate,

or Pépé Le Moko, you can be sure that a post

retro atmosphere, while the drinks offering is

revealing the secrets behind his success won’t

“more high-end cocktails, with an emphasis

be far behind.

on preparation”. Interestingly, he reveals the

On the blog, for instance, you’ll find out

original concept for the proposed venue was to

how to recreate one of his signature serves,

serve Prohibition-era speakeasy cocktails from

the Amaretto Sour. After nonchalantly assuring

the ‘20s and ‘30s, but that he pushed back and

readers that “I make the best Amaretto Sour

successfully lobbied for the venue to offer a

you’ve ever had in your life”, he then proceeds

throwback programme of beverages from the

to explain what he does differently – namely,

SERVICE

031

SERVICE

032

reducing the sweetness, adding cask-proof

to see whether he could create something

bourbon, and using an immersion blender

tailored towards American palates. When that

– before publishing the recipe in full. It’s a

first batch of Barrel-Aged Manhattans – “a

similar story for his other pride and joy, the

soft blend of oak, wine, caramel and char”, as

Grasshopper, a tribute to the blended ice cream

he put it at the time – sold out in a matter of

version of the classic popular in Wisconsin. The

days, he decided to adapt the same technique to

one served in Pépé Le Moko has been elevated

other classics like the Negroni and the Trident;

with a little Fernet-Branca and local sea salt, he

pleased with the results, he immediately posted

explains, and promptly shares a video showing

his findings online, and duly spawned a tidal

how readers can achieve the exact same results.

wave of copycats from San Francisco and New

Another post from 2010 was widely credited

York to London and Singapore. Today, a full

with starting the global craze for barrel-aged

nine years later, customers can still enjoy

cocktails. Inspired by a trip to see master

a barrel-aged cocktail or two over at Clyde

mixologist Tony Conigliaro at The Bar With No

Common, back where it all began.

Name at 69 Colebrooke Row in London, where

With Morgenthaler, you get the sense that

he saw Manhattans being aged in glass vessels,

being open and transparent with his readers is

Morgenthaler began to experiment with pouring

completely non-negotiable, and he is motivated

large volumes of cocktails into used oak barrels

more by the thought of contributing to the

“For me, there’s never been a big difference between pulling pints and making high-end cocktails.”

SERVICE

034

industry and inspiring others than achieving

those who insist on delivering long-winded

in the industry; rest assured, he certainly won’t

fame or fortune. There aren’t many practising

rants and misinformed sermons about their

be quitting anytime soon.

bartenders who can lay claim to having

latest drinks discovery – everything from

“I want to write more, I want to contribute

worked continuously behind the bar for more

pumpkin pale ales to bourbon bucket lists –

more, and I want to stay behind the bar,” he

than two decades either, and Morgenthaler is

to anyone who will listen. “I think there’s a

declares with gusto. “For me to give up tending

acutely aware that the drinks business now is

not-so-fine line between spirit knowledge and

the bar to fly around the world talking about

completely different to when he started out.

spirit fetishisation,” he asserts. “I find spirit

one kind of gin wouldn’t make any sense.”

“It’s funny to see how the industry has changed

knowledge important. I find the kind of guest

So being a brand ambassador doesn’t appeal

so much, and how it continues to evolve,” he

that wants to grill me on how much I know

then? “Look, I’ve absolutely no desire to spend

admits. “I remember when it was all about how

about gin before they feel confident ordering a

my life in airports,” he jokes. Despite having

many times distilled your vodka was, then how

little disturbing.”

spent the last 23 years pursuing his passion,

old the single-malt whisky was, then how many

However, this is not to say that Morgenthaler

managing top bars and penning innumerable

drinks the bartender had memorised. It’s always

feels jaded or disillusioned with his chosen

articles, Morgenthaler clearly believes he still

changing.” Those wanting to enjoy a successful

career – nothing could be further from the truth.

has plenty left to give. The palpable respect that

career behind the bar must, he believes, prepare

At the P(our) Symposium, he’s the life and soul

he inspires across the board speaks volumes too,

themselves for this reality, and be ready to

of the party, swapping wise-cracks with his

and you can’t help but sense that now he has

respond swiftly to whatever surprises the future

peers as they pass through the backstage area,

set his sights on convincing fellow bartenders to

may hold.

usually culminating in a roar of laughter as

follow his lead and stay behind the bar, there’ll

More recently, the bartender has also

another punchline finds its target. He’s clearly

be plenty of acolytes around the world ready to

seen first-hand the emergence of Instagram

someone who loves this business, and is living

heed the call.

influencers (Morgenthaler is not a fan), and

proof that it’s possible to both work full-time

what he derisively terms ‘spirit fetishists’,

behind the bar and rack up other achievements

The soul of stylish vintage combined with old-world charm. www.tigerhotel.co.kr

C R E AT I V E D E S I G N L U X U RY H O S P I TA L I T Y horeca.lsa-international.com

Supper Magazine-October FINAL.indd 1

15/10/2019 10:23

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Union The Opposite House BEIJING

Words: Donna Salek Photography: © Owen Raggett

IN A BITE Covers: 80 Owner: Swire Hotels Operator: The Opposite House Architecture: Kengo Kuma Interior Design: AvroKO F&B Manager: Sunny Su Head Sommelier: Ashley Gao Dinnerware: LSA Cutlery: Robert Welch Glassware: Zwiesel, Riedel www.theoppositehouse.com

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esigned with the whimsical sensibility of

experiment with structure, form and material

an artist’s studio, Union exudes elegance

– all key characteristics in both the early age of

and comfort, welcoming visitors to live,

Modernism and Rie’s pottery.

work and socialise in this sophisticated space

Seeking to create a sense of wonder and

at The Opposite House in Beijing. The Bangkok

discovery through its design, the venue

branch of New York-based design firm AvroKO

cleverly draws in guests with intriguing copper

oversaw the interiors on the project; it has

architectural frames and metal mesh sheets

created a bar with an effortless social flow,

behind the bar, which showcase a spicery wall

inspired by the beautiful and versatile studio

and a host of interesting artworks, sculptures

of celebrated 20th-century potter Lucy Rie, the

and objects. A drinks trolley and DJ booth

craftswoman whose brightly coloured footed

further animate the space, whilst the tabletop is

bowls and flared lip vases were central to the

enhanced by the presence of high-profile luxury

Modernist movement.

brands like LSA and Robert Welch.

In a similar vein, Union aims to be both

Every bit as fluid and extensive as the design,

fluid and adaptable, responding to the needs of

the drinks offering features a constantly evolving

guests across a variety of different situations.

wine list made up of 60 bins, all of which are

This approach is helped by the inclusion of a

available by the glass, as well as a diverse range

linear bar and central communal table, which

of cocktails. Among the notable serves are the

encourage visitors to interact throughout the

Genghis Khan Martini – made with French

day, whilst metal screens ensure the various

gin, Mongolian milk wine, dry vermouth,

social spaces and semi-private areas feel

elderflower, coconut and sea salt – and non-

distinct. And the central lighting features

alcoholic creations like Spring Breeze, a drink

create beacons at the heart of the space, using

inspired by eastern Chinese flavours crafted from

two-tone blown glass and geometric shapes to

pear, vanilla, coconut, citric acid and sea salt.

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Il Palazzo Experimental VENICE

L

ocated slightly off Venice’s main tourist trail

comprises Experimental Cocktail Club signature

in the tranquil Dorsoduro neighbourhood,

serves as well as a selection based on Italian

Il Palazzo Experimental is the new 32-room

beverages such as Luxardo Maraschino, and

boutique hotel by French hospitality company

local amaros, grappas and vermouths – a

Experimental Group.

number of which can be found in miniature in

The property’s bar sits within its RenaissanceWords: Vicky Ilankovan Photography: © Karel Balas

IN A BITE Covers: 70 (restaurant), 20 (bar) Owner-Operator: Experimental Group Architecture: Alessandro Pagnacco Interior Design: Dorothee Meilichzon, Cristina Celestino F&B Consultant: Italian Supper Club Head Chef: Attilio Franzoi F&B Manager: Guillaume Pinaut Head Bartender: Marta Barbaglia www.palazzoexperimental.com

038

the guestroom fridges.

era façade, overlooking the Canal Della Guidecca.

Designed by Dorothée Meilichzon, Ristorante

Designer Cristina Celestino’s contemporary take

Adriatica sits on the opposite side of the hotel’s

on the ornate interiors that Venice is famed for

reception and is as vast as the other F&B venue

combines time-honoured crafts with modern

is intimate. A small bar serves wines, spritzes

aesthetics in a manner inspired by Carlo Scarpa.

and aperitivi before guests are ushered through

The glass frontage evokes serliana archways,

to the dining area, which looks out onto an open

glitzy half-crescent mirrors recall windows in

kitchen, complete with wraparound counter.

neighbouring palazzos, and striking pink walls

Meanwhile, marble plinths and gothique fleuri

are offset by plush teal, silver and brass carpets,

windows frame extravagant interiors. Deeply

whilst a polyphony of marble is met with

veined marble tables, wave-shaped striped

delicate pearl pendant lighting and nods at the

banquettes, terrazzo scarpa flooring, and a

city’s colourfully striped pali da casada poles.

clashing palette of salmon pink, white, bordeaux

On closing the mirrored door to the hotel, the

and pale green are a few of the choice highlights.

jewellery box interiors are completed, and the

Run by the founders of Italian Supper Club, the

atmosphere created is that of Venice’s newest

venue’s culinary offering celebrates elevated

and funkiest members’ club.

simplicity and seasonal produce from Italy’s

Drinks are overseen by Marta Barbaglia, previously of London’s Original Sin. The menu

coast, with classic dishes including spaghetti vongole, Venetian salami and tiramisu.

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Li Long Waldorf Astoria Ithaafushi MALDIVES

Words: Richard Frost Photography: © Alex Jeffries

IN A BITE Covers: 59 Private Dining Rooms: 1 Owner: Urbacon Trading & Contracting Operator: Hilton Worldwide Architecture: Highness Engineering Consultants Interior Design: Stickman Tribe F&B Consultant: CKP Hospitality Consultants www.waldorfastoria3.hilton.com

040

I

nspired by the residences of Shanghai

antiques and curios, and an 18-seat outdoor

noblemen, Li Long is the signature Chinese

terrace serving up spectacular views over the

restaurant at Waldorf Astoria Ithaafushi,

Indian Ocean’s turquoise waters.

the luxurious new 122-villa resort in the

In terms of its culinary offering, Li Long

Maldives. Dubai-headquartered boutique design

specialises in contemporary Chinese cuisine,

consultancy Stickman Tribe has created the

with diners invited to choose between ordering

venue’s elegant interiors, which cleverly recreate

five- or seven-course tasting menus, or going

the intimacy of dining in a private home.

à la carte. Among the star attractions are roast

The experience begins with guests making

Beijing duck with Chinese pancakes, cucumber,

their way through a neatly arranged courtyard,

spring onions and hoisin sauce; and wok-fried

complete with manicured bonsai trees, to a

Maldivian lobster with ginger and spring onions,

small entrance foyer. This leads into a 27-cover

while an interesting dessert selection features

main dining room anchored by a large central

chilled mango pudding; and lemongrass jelly

banquette, accompanied by several smaller

with lime sorbet. Many menu items also pair

tables overlooking a classic wood-fired oven;

beautifully with the restaurant’s extensive

there is also a two-metre-high feature bell

portfolio of speciality teas.

made from infused porcelain and wood – a

Li Long is one of 11 F&B venues at Waldorf

modern take on the traditional Ming vase – and

Astoria Ithaafushi. The resort’s other notable

a high-pitched roof adorned with an iridescent

gastronomic options include Terra, a treehouse-

green covering, finished with an elaborate

inspired dining concept also designed by

timber screen sporting stylish brass highlights.

Stickman Tribe; The Ledge by Michelin-

The venue also boasts a 14-cover private dining

starred chef Dave Pynt, specialising in modern

room suitable for large family gatherings,

Australian barbecue cooking; and garden-to-

whose shelves are packed with eye-catching

table restaurant Glow.

Meet us at: Belgium – HORECA EXPO 2019 November 17th – 21nd, Ghent Booth: Hall 3 – Stand 3130 UK – TOP DRAWER 2020 January 12th – 14th, London Booth: B33 The Netherlands – HORECAVA 2020 January 13th – 16th, Amsterdam Booth: 1.332 France – MAISON&OBJET 2020 January 17th - 21st, Paris

@ chictableware www.chictableware.com

Germany – AMBIENTE 2020 February 7th – 11th, Frankfurt Booth: Hall 4.0 – Stand C78 Germany – INTERGASTRA 2020 February 15th – 19th, Stuttgart Booth: 6D11

CHIC_Supper_236x275_oct 2019.indd 1

22/10/2019 13:18

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Sparrow The Dalmar FORT LAUDERDALE

Words: Jenna Campbell Photography: © Bob Gundu

IN A BITE Owner: Wurzak Hotel Group Operator: Wurzak Hotel Group and Proprietors LLC Architecture: Sol-ARCH Interior Design: DesignAgency Culinary Director: Wes Hamilton Head Chef: Austin Stull Head Bartender: Pete Siewruk Dinnerware: Steelite www.sparrowbar.com

042

A

sky-high hideaway located on the 25th

dinnerware by Steelite. Curated by Head Chef

floor of The Dalmar, part of Marriott

Austin Stull and Proprietors LLC’s Culinary

International’s

Portfolio,

Director Wes Hamilton, it showcases a seasonal

Sparrow is a retro-themed rooftop bar boasting

medley of bold Floridian flavours like lobster

spectacular views over Fort Lauderdale. The

ceviche with coconut milk, and wagyu skirt

stylish venue, a collaboration between Wurzak

steak with chimichurri.

Tribute

Hotel Group and drinks specialist Proprietors

As for the varied drinks programme, overseen

LLC, is one of five different F&B concepts at the

by Head Bartender Pete Siewruk, the enticing

new 209-room property.

selection comprises a host of easy-drinking

Brought to life by DesignAgency, Sparrow’s

tropical cocktails, alongside some more

interiors pay homage to the 1970s with colourful

adventurous concoctions such as Kill The

carpets, deep velvet couches, marble and brass.

Lights made from Elijah Craig Bourbon, Carpano

Eye-catching features are dotted throughout to

Antica Sweet Vermouth, spiced pineapple and

create an inviting space, complementing the

Angostura bitters.

spectacular city and ocean views below. From

Sparrow forms part of an impressive F&B

an indoor lounge complete with neon accents

offering at the landmark lifestyle hotel. From

and dense seating clusters to the light tropical

the warm walnut millwork of Rose’s Cofee Bar

design of the wraparound outdoor terrace,

and double-height oak-panelled centrepiece in

the journey from lounge to covered patio

The Terrace Grill to the white terrazzo flooring

encompasses the relaxed and playful character

with brass inlay at Lobby Bar and the tropical

of the hotel as a whole.

features evident at poolside sanctuary Sip ‘n

The fusion between contemporary and

Dip, the designers have drawn upon a variety of

nostalgia-driven design is further reflected

influences to create an elegant property infused

in the innovative cuisine, served on smart

with a powerful sense of place.

STARTER

Salon Sacher Hotel Sacher VIENNA

Words: Richard Frost Photography: © BWM Architekten / Severin Wurnig

IN A BITE Covers: 40 Architecture and Interior Design: BWM Architekten F&B Manager: Andreas Keese Furniture: Thonet Lighting: Megumi Ito www.sacher.com

044

S

hortlisted for an AHEAD Europe award

of a chandelier, for example, and an atypical

in the Bar, Club or Lounge category,

black-and-white floor pattern. However, a

Salon Sacher is the newest F&B venue at

sense of tradition is maintained through the

Viennese institution Hotel Sacher. The 40-cover

use of tinted mirrors, elegant tables – whose

space, formerly home to Sacher Stube, has been

brass bases are complemented by new stone

imaginatively redesigned by BWM Architekten,

tops – and reupholstered Thonet chairs. Much

combining carefully inserted elements inspired

of the seating is decked out in a soft coral hue,

by the 1920s and 1950s.

referencing both the characteristic Sacher red

The family-run hotel has partnered with BWM

and the 1950s preference for pastel colours.

again on the back of a successful collaboration

Positioned in the heart of the space, the

revamping and extending Sacher Eck, a tourist-

bar serves up speciality teas and coffees in

oriented café and shop within the same building,

the daytime, followed by cocktails like Sacher

in 2017. During the initial investigatory work,

1876 (Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur, absinthe,

the practice discovered a stucco ceiling from

lemon juice and sugar) after dark. Customers

1881 hidden behind a suspended ceiling, and this

can also order light bites such as truffled ham

was duly turned into the main focal point. In an

with Russian salad, or the Original Sacher Torte,

ingenious move, bold vertical lines have been

the iconic chocolate cake invented by pastry

added to the walls, drawing the eye up towards

chef Franz Sacher in 1832.

an oval aperture surrounded by a neon border,

“Salon Sacher is a recreation of the 1920s,

ensuring every guest notices the intricate

done in the daring manner of the 1950s,” says

craftmanship above their heads.

Aleš Košak, Senior Architect at BWM. “On the

Salon Sacher playfully subverts standard

1920s side, it seeks to follow in the footsteps

Viennese coffeehouse tropes; it boasts custom

of the Sacher family, and on the 1950s side, it

arched globe lights by Megumi Ito instead

wants to be a bit daring and unexpected.”

Allegra The Stratford LONDON Continuing the legacy of St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel and Chiltern Firehouse, developer Harry Handelsman has created a new culinary destination in London’s East End. Words: Ben Thomas • Photography: © Sam A Harris (unless otherwise stated)

S

ince hosting the Olympics in 2012, Stratford has often

cook Nuno Mendes. “I thought that Patrick, who I knew well

been dismissed by city dwellers and travellers alike as

from Chiltern Firehouse, would fit the bill,” he confirms.

merely home to an interchange station on the DLR,

“And having collaborated with him over the past 18 months,

a shopping centre and – somewhat controversially – West

Powell’s training in French cooking, together with his

host of new openings have placed the district back on the

culinary experience garnered at Dublin’s Michelin-starred

capital’s up-and-coming list. Kicking off its latest phase of

L’Ecrivain under Derry Clarke and Wild Honey St James with

regeneration from industrial suburb to cultural powerhouse

Anthony Demetre, stood him in good stead for the role of

is The Stratford – a 42-storey skyscraper designed by

Head Chef at Allegra, while his emphasis on provenance

Skidmore, Owings & Merrill, which combines a 142-room

also led Handelsman to acquire land at Pale Green Dot farm

hotel and 248 fully furnished loft apartments with bars,

in Sussex – which now supplies many of the restaurant’s

restaurants and sky gardens.

ingredients. For Powell, the farm is integral to the menu.

The unique vertical community is the vision of Harry

“When I first began working with Harry on the plans for

Handelsman, the developer behind St. Pancras Renaissance

Allegra, we both agreed we wanted the restaurant to be more

Hotel and Chiltern Firehouse, who in creating the complex

than a place to eat,” he reveals. “Being lucky enough to

drew inspiration from the timeless glamour and communal

source ingredients from our own farm is every chef’s dream,

spirit of 1950s New York’s legendary long-stay hotels.

and the whole team is excited to work in a farm-to-fork

Though he did add his own personal touches too, naming

style. We’ll be evolving with the seasons, and I’m really

its restaurant after his youngest daughter, Allegra.

thrilled about the food we’ve opened the restaurant with as it

“This is my most ambitious project to date and I wanted

046

that impression is fully justified.”

Ham United. In more recent times, however, plans for a

showcases the flair, hard work and creativity of our kitchen.”

to put Stratford on the map,” he explains. “I felt that

Locally sourced produce is prominent throughout the

the project needed a truly wonderful restaurant to make

menu, on show in starters such as hand-dived scallops with

it a destination, and I was looking for a chef that would

cucumber, pickled strawberry and elderflower; tomato and

understand that vision and make Allegra their own.” That

gordal olive tart; and smoked eel pithivier with parsley sauce

chef is Patrick Powell, who Handelsman encountered at

and pickled chilli vinegar; as well as in mains like suckling

Chiltern Firehouse, working alongside renowned Portuguese

pig accompanied by turnip, Bramley apple and mint; Welsh

MAIN COURSE

047

048

MAIN COURSE

lamb with sweet pepper romesco and pickled walnut; and baked celeriac with mizuna, jalapeno and celeriac ramen broth. And in case that wasn’t enough, larger dishes to share, such as grass-fed beef, are cooked over an outdoor grill and served with a smoked bone marrow and beetroot tart, while a whole roast chicken to share is stuffed with a cep sausage and arrives at the table in two servings. Powell has also created a seven-course tasting menu that changes daily, featuring a selection of highlights from the kitchen.

“We’ve been working with the farm for over a year now and are really beginning to see the fruits of our labour with pumpkins, squashes, aubergines, different varieties of potato, kale, carrots and beetroot,” he continues. “We’re also particularly excited about next spring and summer, as there will be an abundance of amazing produce for us to work with.”

Guests can choose to dine either à la carte or from a more informal terrace menu, while those looking to indulge in an evening nightcap can take a seat at the bar and enjoy the views with a glass of wine, selected from the venue’s glass-encased walk-in wine room by Head Sommelier Luigi Coco. “Our wine list features small independent producers from around the world, which our sommelier Luigi has discovered through his career,” says Powell. “We work with producers that might usually get overlooked in favour of the more conventional estates, and small importers in London as opposed to larger corporate suppliers, which gives us exclusivity on lots of interesting wines.”

Aside from this striking room, the seventh-floor restaurant – designed by Space Copenhagen, the team behind Noma and 11 Howard in New York – features a 22-cover lounge and bar counter where guests are encouraged to savour cocktails, snacks, oysters or an assortment of charcuterie from the in-house curing room. Here and throughout the wider 72-cover dining area, mild tones of green and warm grey are illuminated by floor-to-ceiling windows and framed by a natural stone Montpellier floor, while across the venue, © Jan Baldwin

bespoke booth seating overlooks an open montage kitchen to create greater interaction between chef and guest. Glassware

049

MAIN COURSE

and cutlery from premium suppliers, including Riedel

an outdoor wood-burning grill, which acts as a large

and Studio William, further elevate the overall sense

fireplace come evening.

of luxury.

050

Allegra may form part of a wider vertical community,

In developing the interior scheme, the Danish

but Powell insists that the restaurant maintains a

design studio took cues from the locale before

feeling of independence. “Excellent hospitality, in

layering the space with what it describes as ‘poetic

every sense of the word, has always been at the core

modernism’. “We have a love for organic materials

of what I love and it’s certainly at the heart of this

that age beautifully, so we put a lot of energy into

building,” he reflects. “The space truly comes alive

trying to humanise the building,” explains co-founder

when we welcome our guests – and that’s the most

Signe Bindslev Henriksen. Such materials complement

rewarding part for me.”

a muted colour palette featuring rich, tactile surfaces

Though Stratford may not be the first destination

like natural woods and warm metals, together with

that springs to mind when deciding where to dine

clean-lined, softly curved upholstered shapes in the

out in London, there’s no question that the district is

form of furniture from Gubi, Roda and Benchmark.

on the rise – the £1.1 billion East Bank development

To maximise the views of London’s rooftops,

at Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park a clear indicator

meanwhile, the firm created the Highline Sky Garden,

of the city’s ambition to revitalise the area over the

a large outdoor terrace accessed through retracting

coming years, bringing with it Sadler’s Wells Theatre,

glass walls, where herbs used in the restaurant grow

the BBC and the Victoria & Albert Museum, not to

alongside seasonal plants – the latter reminiscent of

mention around 600 new homes within a complex

those found in the nearby Hackney marshes. Seating

centred around a 27-storey landmark tower. And with

up to 50 guests, the outdoor area is sheltered by a

restaurants like Allegra promising exceptional cuisine

triple-height, cedar cantilevered roof and illuminated

too, locals and travellers may soon start seeing that

pergola, while a separate terrace menu is cooked on

short ride on the DLR as a trip worth making.

IN A BITE Covers: 94 (inside), 68 (outside) Owner: Manhattan Loft Corporation Operator: The Stratford Developer: Harry Handelsman Architecture: Skidmore, Owings & Merrill Interior Design: Space Copenhagen Head Chef: Patrick Powell F&B Director: Ben Hesketh Head Sommelier: Luigi Coco www.allegra-restaurant.com

MS_Supper_Ad.indd 1

24/10/2019 16:26

Electric Lemon Equinox Hotel NEW YORK For its inaugural hotel project, Equinox has teamed up with Starr Restaurants to create an innovative F&B programme perfectly suited to its fitness-focused fans.

Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: Courtesy of Equinox Hotels (unless otherwise stated)

O

ne of the pioneers of the fitnessas-lifestyle

movement,

partnership is located on the 24th floor of the

was founded back in 1991 and now

hotel, and the Executive Chef leading the troops

boasts dozens of gyms across the US and

is Kyle Knall. Hailing from the South – a native

internationally, but until up until this point

of Birmingham, Alabama to be more exact –

it has never run its own hotels. That has all

his resumé includes places such as Big Apple

changed with the opening of the inaugural

institution Gramercy Tavern, which he keeps

Equinox Hotel at Hudson Yards, an ambitious

referring back to during our conversation, and

212-room property, which the brand confidently

Maysville, named after the purported birthplace

asserts will represent the dawn of a new era

of Kentucky bourbon. “What I love to hear from

in luxury travel. The goal is to provide a

my guests is that this feels very much in the

360-degree lifestyle experience ‘for those who

moment,” he explains. “I want our customers

want it all’, a holistic philosophy intended to

to sense that they are in New York, have the

run throughout every touchpoint.

best ingredients on the plate and are enjoying

Electric Lemon, as fresh and vibrant as the

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The venue resulting from this dynamic

Equinox

the energy that is here.”

name suggests, is the main restaurant space,

Equinox calls this ‘light, balanced and bright

serving up breakfast, brunch, lunch and

mid-Atlantic cuisine’, and what is particularly

dinner to the brand’s fitness-focused fans

noticeable is the strong emphasis on sourcing

whenever they want to refuel. It is concepted

high-quality ingredients. Indeed, Chef Knall

and operated by F&B trailblazer Stephen Starr

has built up personal relationships with

and Starr Restaurants (which is also behind

many farmers, giving him and his team the

New York favourites such as Le Coucou, Upland

opportunity to experiment with the best that

and Buddakan), a collaboration that reflects

each season has to offer back in the kitchen.

the hotel leadership’s determination to find

“What you see on the plate is what is available

partners capable of delivering on the Equinox

at the market,” he says. A great example is

ethos of high performance.

the Somewhat Simple Salad, comprising seven

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054

different vegetables, sunflower seeds and lemon

garden and private dining room spaces, with

vinaigrette; in addition to feeling like eating

plenty of cosy nooks to sneak into with a hot

from grandmother’s vegetable garden, the

beverage from the bar menu. Whilst the first

symphony of colours on display also delights

impression arising from all this grandeur is that

the eye.

the venue may appeal primarily to a somewhat

Equally important to the brigade is a laudable

selective clientele, the reality is actually very

desire to make full use of every ingredient,

different. “This is not a niche restaurant for

with both the food and drink programmes

special occasions only, we want our guests to

adhering to a zero-waste philosophy. Beverage

feel welcome every day if they enjoy the menu,

Manager Natascha Patterer and her colleagues,

and leave feeling fresh and energised,” reflects

for example, work with the culinary team to

Ara Dalzell-Patterson, Vice President of Food

create a range of bespoke cocktails, often using

and Beverage at Equinox Hotels.

unexpected ingredients like chive flower, sorrel

The handcrafted plates by Jono Pandolfi are

and sweet pea shrub along the way. Notable

something that immediately catch the eye as

creations include current signature serve Electric

Chef Knall brings out some of his creations, and

Gibson, which combines Bertha’s Revenge Gin,

that is certainly not accidental. “This plateware

dill aquavit and brined chive flower, and the

is made by artists who I always wanted to work

chef-inspired Kyle Knall, Y’all, utilising Mezcal

with, their earthiness comes through in the

Noble Coyote Espadín, Xila Ancho, sorrel and

touch and feel, and that perfectly complements

sal de gusano.

my dishes,” says Knall. Similarly, quality is

Electric Lemon’s elegant dining room,

again the watchword when it comes to serving

designed by Rockwell Group, is complemented

the drinks, with the restaurant choosing to use

by an 8,000 ft2 terrace that includes a herb

elegant glassware by Nude. Meanwhile, the

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or a purpose-built vehicle for entertaining

Butler, a women-led company whose clients

larger groups, this is definitely a room-service

span hotels, restaurants, retail and museums,

experience like no other, and it is perhaps

working closely with celebrity stylist and

telling that the menus have all been developed

creative consultant Kate Young.

together with Chef Knall and his team.

Interestingly, the entire room service offering

Entering the hotel market with a new luxury

– frequently a tired and uninspiring part of F&B

lifestyle brand was never going to be easy, and

operations elsewhere – has been completely

nor was trying to provide an equally compelling

reimagined at the inaugural Equinox Hotel.

F&B programme. However, by innovating in the

The team has put a lot of effort into upgrading,

areas that desperately need it – and keeping

and in some instances completely changing, the

the concept simple, approachable and tailored

service delivery, and also tweaking elements to

to guest needs – the teams at Equinox Hotel and

satisfy the needs of their high-performance

Electric Lemon have seemingly hit upon all the

guests; taking into account factors such as time

necessary ingredients to succeed in the ultra-

of day and function, menu items range from

competitive New York market and beyond.

jet lag-reducing smoothies to grass-fed beef burgers and grilled cheese sandwiches. “The balance between comfort and health was very important to us,” explains Dalzell-Patterson.

“There is nothing wrong with indulgence if that is what our guests crave. The common thread here is the freshness of it all.” Whether delivered in a customised gym bag, a bespoke tiffin box

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© Jason Varney

© Jason Varney

sleek uniforms have been designed by Lady and

IN A BITE Owner: Equinox Hotels Operator: Starr Restaurants Architecture: Skidmore, Owings & Merrill Interior Design: Rockwell Group F&B Consultant: Ricca Design Studios Executive Chef: Kyle Knall Beverage Manager: Natascha Patterer Glassware: Nude Uniform Design: Lady and Butler www.electriclemonnyc.com

www.ladyandbutler.com

redefining modern uniforms

Cultureplex Native MANCHESTER The restaurateurs behind Bistrotheque and Hoi Polloi celebrate Manchester’s industrial heritage and cultural pedigree with their latest outpost.

Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: © Felix Mooneeram

S

itting on the edge of Manchester’s

and an 80-cover restaurant, Bistrotheque,

Northern Quarter, the newly restored

specialising in uncomplicated dishes with

Ducie Street Warehouse – a Grade II-listed

a distinctively northern twist. The team’s

building formerly used to store cotton bales, a

ambitious regeneration plans also extend to a

vital product during the Industrial Revolution

mini-cinema showcasing a curated selection of

– has been given a new lease of life as serviced

art-house films; meeting and event spaces with

apartments and a thriving cultural hub.

sunken garden features; outdoor terraces; and

The capacious building, spanning eight floors

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luxury gym BLOC.

and boasting a triple-height ground floor

“Culturally, Manchester is amazing, it

alongside 166 beautifully designed suites, is

punches well above its weight in terms of size

brought to Manchester by apart-hoteliers Native

and population,” says Waddington. Having

in collaboration with London restaurateurs

identified the growth of the city’s independent

David Waddington and Pablo Flack. The duo

hospitality scene, especially in neighbouring

behind Ace Hotel London Shoreditch hangout

Ancoats – where Michelin-starred Mana,

Hoi Polloi and Bethnal Green institution

Pollen Bakery and seasonal kitchen Erst are

Bistrotheque have been tasked with creating a

each housed in former cotton mills – the pair

ground-floor destination space for visitors and

saw the potential of Ducie Street Warehouse to

locals alike to experience, inhabit and breathe

build upon these culinary foundations and bring

new life into.

something new to the city. With both founders

Spearheaded by Waddington and Flack, the

originally hailing from Yorkshire, the project

hotel’s F&B offering, Cultureplex, features an

also represents a homecoming of sorts, a chance

all-day lounge and bar built for casual dining

to reconnect to a place where they both spent a

and co-working; an artisanal coffee counter,

lot of their youth.

Klatch, serving ‘healthy(ish)’ food and juices by

A full 25 years after meeting in London,

day, and natural wines and craft beers by night;

and with a successful portfolio of restaurant

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ventures behind them - including a string of

caramel leather seating. “There’s often a tendency to

temporary concepts such as Studio East Dining and

make grand statements and big splashes, whereas we

Kings Cross Filling Station - their northern venture

have created something that feels more harmonious

has been meticulously considered, with a concept that

with the building and doesn’t shout too loudly,”

responds specifically to the nature of the building

notes Waddington, citing Manchester’s John Rylands

itself. While the ground floor serves as a public space

Library and public halls - signposts of community and

for the aparthotel above, run independently, they “try

democracy - as a source of inspiration.

not to think about the upstairs at all,” notes Flack.

Elsewhere, the muted colour palettes and many

Conscious that the F&B offering and all the cultural

plants dotted around the space are complemented by

adages should reflect local appetites and not just hotel

locally sourced fixtures and apparel. Black tile floors

guests’ expectations, they have evolved the function

leading out on to the Piccadilly canal basin beyond

of the traditional lobby space into something akin to

– a seamless continuation of the building’s existing

a community hall.

terracotta features – are made in Stoke, while the

Seeking to respect the rich industrial underpinnings

serene powder blue of the Klatch counter has been

and original features of the listed building, they called

created by Darwen and Faience. In a nod to the city’s

upon Loren Daye, founder of New York design studio

past, meanwhile, the space includes Granby Workshop

Love is Enough, to bring a human scale to the space

terrazzo in the lounge and restaurant, constituted of

in a style reminiscent of the Hoi Polloi aesthetic

remnants from the region’s demolished buildings,

which she worked on previously. Restored by Archer

a reminder of how sensitive design techniques have

Humphryes Architects, a robust structure of vaulted

been woven into the building’s fabric.

ceilings, exposed barrel arched brickwork and hefty

This thoughtful approach, coupled with a strong

cast-iron columns remain intact, softened by features

conviction that the space should provide a number

including glazed Douglas fir wooden panels and

of cultural touchpoints, is mirrored by a distinctly

England Hospitality unfolds in space. Limitless opportunities open up. HoReCa at the world’s most important consumer goods trade fair is expanding. What’s more, from 2020 Hall 6.0 will offer a showcase for international innovations, a venue for a discourse of inventive gastronomy concepts and an exchange of trends.

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the show

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nuanced approach to food and beverage. In the lounge, for example, the fattoush salad with feta, and Chicken Kiev with celeriac remoulade, provides a hearty but relaxed dining experience. “There’s something on the menu for each moment of the day,” says Waddington. Appealing to the growing trend towards informal dining that has taken hold across the city and surrounding suburbs, the communal menu is designed with flexible workers and freelancers in mind, offering sharing plates like grilled bread, whipped ricotta, aubergine and parsley, accompanied by a selection of casual cocktails, including the Culturespritz, composed of rose vermouth, olorosso and sparkling wine.

In Bistrotheque, the culinary offering features a number of the team’s staples, including their classic chicken with confit garlic and rocket, and much-lauded fish and chips.

Nevertheless, this is also a defiantly crowd-pleasing menu, curated by Head Chef Blaine Duffy, which has been carefully crafted to suit the local palate.

Similarly, the extensive cultural programme curated

by Producer and Strategist Katie Popperwell reflects the laidback nature of the dining experience. Guests can enjoy piano brunches or linger in the lounge as a string quartet fills the room with harmonic symphonies, learn how to shuck an oyster, or catch a viewing of Sour Grapes in the mini-cinema, complete with quality wines and bar snacks.

Workshops from local creatives, including terrarium taster

IN A BITE Covers: 80 (Bistrotheque) Operator: David Waddington and Pablo Flack Architecture: Archer Humphryes Architects Interior Design: Love is Enough Head Chef: Blaine Duffy F&B Manager: Conor Sheehan Head Bartender: Will Flower www.cultureplex.co.uk

062

sessions with Prestwich-based plant studio Nonsense and conversations with event partners Homobloc, further add to the overall impression that this is a very contemporary reimagining of the traditional public hall.

A distinctive and considered take on hotel F&B, Waddington and Flack’s latest offering has cleverly created a space for both visitors and residents to make their own, while respecting the city’s strong personality and unique sense of self.

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02/10/2019 14:36:54

Memories Grand Resort Bad Ragaz SWITZERLAND Michelin-starred chef Sven Wassmer and top designer Claudio Carbone join forces to revamp the historic spa resort’s F&B offering.

Words: Lauren Ho Photography: © Claus Brechenmacher & Reiner Baumann

F

or nearly 200 years, the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz has been luring in well-heeled guests with its formidable alpine vistas and soothing thermal waters. Yet it seems

almost counterintuitive that, despite its extensive haul of F&B options, the exclusive spa resort has never before had a proper health-focused restaurant.

Now as part of a CHF 45 million (£35 million) overhaul for the Grand Hotel Quellenhof’s 150th birthday – one of the two five-star properties that make up the sprawling complex – a couple of former restaurant spaces have been updated with two new, innovative, clean-eating concepts by the resort’s Culinary Director Sven Wassmer. Previously the Head Chef at 7132 Silver Restaurant in Vals, where he won two Michelin stars, Wassmer brings what he calls ‘new Swiss Alpine cuisine’ to the hotel. This translates as fresh and uncomplicated food using foraged ingredients from the region, combined with the best local and international produce. “I thoroughly enjoy scavenging for treats like wild herbs, flowers or fir cones with my team,” explains Wassmer. “Our goal is to show how versatile and delicious healthy cooking can be.”

At verve by sven, the casual all-day venue, Head Chef Sebastian Titz sends out feel-good dishes like the chia and linseed breakfast bowl topped with granola, bee pollen and berries; or wholesome dashi broth served with organic jasmine rice and Swiss kimchi. For the interiors, Wassmer worked with designer Claudio Carbone, who took his cues from the chef’s nature-focused philosophy, swathing the walls with

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live greenery and highlighting natural materials like

dance around each other in a perfectly orchestrated

leather, cotton and walnut, offset by a striking bar

performance, watching as they assemble pretty plates

lined with crumpled chromium steel. Here, fresh and

like the bright orange capuchin flower stuffed with

seasonal mocktails are served alongside wines from

creamy mountain cheese and served on top of a

the adjoining walk-in cellar, which is dominated by a

crunchy sourdough ‘cookie’, or innovative desserts

dynamic, sound-reactive, vine-inspired chandelier by

made from unexpected ingredients like lettuce – all

Czech lighting design outfit Sans Souci. “With a resort

served on simple linen-coloured ceramicware from

like this, you have to create unique interiors,” explains

Austrian company Rochini which, Wassmer says,

Carbone with a shrug.

“brings a sense of peace and quiet, letting the food

Next door in Memories, original details like the

066

do the talking”.

ornate ceiling have been enhanced with an understated

The cuisine is complemented by faultless wine

palette of curved ash wood partitions, rainforest-green

pairings courtesy of Wassmer’s wife, sommelier

Brazilian marble wall panels, restored 150-year-old

Amanda Wassmer-Bulgin, who interestingly has also

parquet flooring – found in the hotel’s attic storage –

developed a range of non-alcoholic options. “It would

and a standout ceiling light inspired by a tulip bouquet.

be foolish of me to presume that everyone wants to

This comes together to form a suitable backdrop for

drink alcohol,” she explains. “I want everyone to

the open show kitchen, or the ‘stage’, as Carbone likes

have a similar experience, which means providing

to call it. “The restaurant is meant to be my living

a complex alternative.” For Wassmer-Bulgin, that

room,” explains Wassmer. “I want to meet my guests,

means assessing each dish, identifying its key

talk to them about our products and invite them into

elements, and creating intricate concoctions like

the kitchen to experience how the dishes are made.”

fermented bilberries mixed with local grape juice and

Of course, the best seat in the house is at the kitchen

lingonberries, which she reckons is a great alternative

counter. Here, diners can see Wassmer and his team

to the local pinot noir. “It’s really important that the

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drinks are light and refreshing and not just based on

Cuisine Silvio Germann carefully crafts three courses

pure juices, which can be very filling,” she adds.

made up of a series of small sharing dishes like duck

Grand Resort Bad Ragaz’s decision to introduce two new restaurants by Wassmer does not, of course, mean

068

liver with a side of chocolate and cherries, tasty chicken nuggets, or deliciously fluffy curd soufflé.

that its remaining clutch of dining options fail to hit

This is a resort in which the F&B has clearly been

the mark. In fact, it’s quite the opposite, with the

considered down to the very last detail, and nowhere

property’s half a dozen other offerings amassing a

is that more apparent than at Igniv’s fun pick ‘n’

joint trove of no less than 59 Gault & Millau points and

mix counter where guests can choose some delicious

one Michelin star. Among these is Restaurant Namun,

petits fours to enjoy on their travels, or in one of the

an Asian dining room sending out classics like tangy

newly refurbished suites at Grand Hotel Quellenhof.

Thai mango beef salad or platters of dim sum; Gladys,

Here, Carbone has added a further dose of sparkle with

the restaurant at the resort’s golf club that caters to

warm yellow-gold, silver-grey and blue hues that are

a global audience via dishes like gnocchi with pesto

revealed through bespoke furnishings, hand-blown

or breaded schnitzel; and the Michelin-starred Igniv.

glass vases moulded from pieces of wood, and natural

At the latter, Swiss chef Andreas Caminada lends

materials such as walnut parquet flooring, silk, leather

his triple-Michelin-starred power to a cosy room

and stone. Continuing the theme, there is a 16-metre

with a vaulted ceiling designed by Patricia Urquiola,

central chandelier comprising 2,500 hand-blown glass

who has taken her cues from the restaurant’s name

spheres in the lobby, and a standout reception desk

– which means ‘nest’ in Rhaeto-Romance, one of

carved from Rhine quartzite and chromium steel.

Switzerland’s official languages – to mix brass,

“The idea was to give a new dress to the old lady,”

leather, golden-hued table bases and stone with an

explains Carbone. “The short five-month deadline for

unusual wall panelling of wooden parquet. In the

this project was stressful, but in a good way. It made

kitchen, meanwhile, Caminada’s protégé and Chef de

me happy to see it all come to life.”

IN A BITE Covers: 36 Operator: Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, Sven Wassmer Architecture and Interior Design: Carbone Design Culinary Director: Sven Wassmer Chef Pâttisier: Andy Vorbusch F&B Manager: Andreas Demont Wine Director: Amanda WassmerBulgin Head Waiter: Sebastian Stichter Dinnerware: Rochini Cutlery: Robbe & Berking Glassware: Zalto www.memories.ch

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Rubbish Cooks at Parker’s Tavern University Arms CAMBRIDGE A new supper club by the team behind Parker’s Tavern, part of the prestigious University Arms, aims to draw attention to the growing issue of food waste.

Words: Richard Frost • Photography: © Chris Roberts (unless otherwise stated)

I

t is something of an open secret in hospitality

Arms, part of Marriott International’s Autograph

circles that many hotels, particularly those

Collection, a very different ethos prevails. Its

towards the boutique and luxury end of the

90-strong team, who collectively look after

spectrum, generate an inordinate amount of

everything from the property’s restaurant and

food waste. Creating an environment in which

bar to banqueting and room service, have been

guests want for nothing can have major knock-

quietly working to eliminate food waste ever

on effects for the kitchen, with management

since the historic hotel relaunched last summer

traditionally expecting chefs to keep enough

following an £80 million transformation

produce onsite to be able to rustle up whatever

programme overseen by John Simpson

the paying customer desires at a moment’s

Architects and Martin Brudnizki Design Studio.

notice. Yet if the orders fail to materialise,

Under the watchful eye of Chef Director Tristan

and the property’s F&B venues are not run on

Welch, everyone in the kitchen is encouraged

sustainable principles, these ingredients can all

to play their part; chefs are taught butchery

too often end up in the bin. And this is without

skills so that they can use the whole of each

even taking into consideration those ill-fated

animal across different dishes on the menu,

products that most professional establishments

while unused trimmings are measured to help

would turn down in the first place, like overripe

identify what could be done more efficiently

fruits or wonky vegetables.

in future. “We have very little food waste at

At Parker’s Tavern, the catch-all brand behind

Parker’s Tavern,” says Welch, who trained

the F&B operation at Cambridge’s University

under Gary Rhodes and Michel Roux Jr., before

071

© Simon Brown

072

later heading up celebrated London restaurants

created by combining cherry tomatoes with

the inclusion of a beautifully caramelised pie

Pétrus at The Berkeley and Launceston Place.

sherry vinegar. “You peel artichokes anyway,

stuffed with overripe peaches and topped with

“It’s one of my pet hates, I just cannot abide it.”

so it doesn’t matter if the leaves are brown,”

gingerbread ice cream; last but not least, there

Now, Welch is taking his social responsibilities

explains Welch, who goes on to note that his

are some moreish chocolate petits fours whose

a step further by introducing a monthly supper

suppliers also cannot sell the extra-mature

distinctly Caribbean flavour (Welch used to be

club designed to inspire and educate both chefs

cheddar (which is past its sell-by date, but not

Executive Chef of the exclusive Cotton House

and customers about the issue of food waste.

its use-by date) or the underripe tomatoes.

boutique hotel in Mustique) comes from the use

Rubbish Cooks, which takes place on the last

Nevertheless, the dish is utterly bewitching,

of coconut cream, extracted from dented tins

Monday of every month, sees guests pre-book

with the sharp acidity of the sauce providing a

that would otherwise have been binned.

a one-night-only set menu made from products

welcome counterpoint to the creamy intensity

that would otherwise be thrown away. “I’ve

of the raviolo filling.

This bespoke menu is priced at £20 per guest – £15 of which goes towards service costs, while

never been able to stand food waste and to be

Also on the menu is a wholesome soup

the remaining £5 is donated to Jimmy’s Night

able to do something highlighting the problem

made from the cheeks and collars of fish –

Shelter, a charity close to Welch’s heart working

is really exciting,” he continues. “The majority

not traditionally sought-after ingredients in

to support Cambridge’s homeless community.

of the ingredients we use on the night come

UK kitchens – and a generous serving of lamb

“We’ve been given the food for free, so we’re not

from suppliers and shops that have donated

shoulder knuckle (another little-used cut) with

charging for it,” he explains matter-of-factly,

items they can’t sell. And they can’t sell them

crushed wonky vegetables and the braised

when asked why Rubbish Cooks is so cheap to

because of consumer perceptions about what’s

inner leaves of a brown cabbage. “The funny

attend, although one senses many guests would

nice, and what’s not.”

thing is, that cabbage was the size of a football

be happy to pay more. Another unusual feature

At the inaugural event in September 2019, for

when it first came in, we just cut it down to

is that each supper club is limited to just 20

example, diners were treated to a homemade

the nice bits,” admits Welch, as he personally

covers, which makes sense when you consider

raviolo made from brown-leaved artichokes

introduces the dish to his guests. Those with a

the operational challenges involved in sourcing

and cheddar, accompanied by a tangy sauce

sweet tooth are not neglected either, thanks to

large quantities of unwanted ingredients, all

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without compromising on the quality and

gone by like Lord Byron, Sir Jack Hobbs and

consistency that Parker’s Tavern is known for.

Charles Darwin. They might even opt to stay

Despite the low price point, however,

the night, and drop by the library the following

guests still get to enjoy their set menus in the

day for an afternoon tea filled with savouries

same sophisticated 110-cover dining room as

and sweets inspired by local history, all in full

everyone else – the beautiful Martin Brudnizki-

view of Parker’s Piece, an open space where the

designed brasserie features original stained-

rules of modern-day football were famously

glass windows with crest detailing, statement

first drawn up in 1848. But there is certainly no

chandeliers, Cambridge Blue wall panelling and

obligation for diners to spend more, reflecting

solid-wood parquet flooring. Their dishes are

the fact that for Welch this is very much a case

also still served on stylish fine-bone-china

of standing up for what you believe in, rather

plates made especially for Parker’s Tavern by

than a hard-headed money-making venture.

William Edwards, accompanied by bespoke

“The population is going up and up, and if we

cutlery from Heritage Collection, and the front-

continue living this way, our food supply is going

of-house team is still every bit as attentive as

to run out quicker than we can feed people, so

they are with other diners.

there’s got to be a better way forward,” Welch

Of course, Rubbish Cooks guests may ultimately increase their spend in other ways, perhaps by ordering a bottle of the fruity Parker’s Tavern Claret – a collaboration with Bordeaux-based vineyard Chateau de Fontenille – or by retiring to the bar for a signature cocktail honouring notable Cambridge figures from days

concludes. “Plus, it just seems silly to waste perfectly good food.”

IN A BITE Covers: 110 (dining room) Private Dining Rooms: 3 Owner: Melford Capital Partners Architecture: John Simpson Architects Interior Design: Martin Brudnizki Design Studio Chef Director: Tristan Welch Executive Chef: Richard Stokes Head Chef: Peter Kiss F&B Manager: Albert-Ragnvald Wijnhold Bar Manager: Sebastian Bouza Dinnerware: William Edwards, Alliance Cutlery: Heritage Glassware: Alliance www.parkerstavern.com

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DINING

In a Pickle A growing number of chefs at London’s top hotels are turning to homemade pickles and ferments to help differentiate their cuisine.

Words: Lucy Lovell

L

ondon’s culinary scene is evolving at an astounding pace, but pickled and fermented foods seem to possess greater staying power than other heretoday, gone-tomorrow fads, and indeed have been bubbling away in kitchens ever since first returning to the limelight a few years ago. Today,

a new generation of forward-thinking chefs is striving to master these traditional skills, and menus around the city fizz with the likes of kombucha and pickled vegetables.

Of course, fermenting and pickling date back almost as far as human history; before the development of fridges and freezers, they were essential tools to keep larders stocked

all fond memories. “I know when fermenting hit the UK

over the winter months, and each country developed its own

four years ago, everyone started fermenting everything,”

techniques built around lactic acid, acetic acid, alcoholic

he recalls. “There was a lot of iffy-tasting stuff popping

fermentation and so on. The UK was certainly no different,

up. Now, people have got the hang of it; they understand it

but over time much of that know-how was lost. Admittedly,

more. It’s like anything: you need to not just read about it,

fermented foods never really went away entirely – bread,

but actually do it, and learn from your mistakes. What works

coffee and cheese are perfect examples – but many of these

for you and what doesn’t, it’s quite an investment of time.”

products were heavily processed, and knowledge of how to

According to Palmer-Watts, the key to good pickling is

make them was limited to a select few. It took the incredible

precision. As you’d expect from a Blumenthal restaurant,

rise of New Nordic Cuisine – led by the team behind Noma in

Dinner’s kitchen experiments tirelessly. “We use about

Copenhagen – to spark a fermentation renaissance. Inspired

20 types of vinegar,” he says. “Then you’re into different

by what became known as the most important restaurant for

methods: do you pour the pickle liquid over warm or cold?

a generation, cooks in London soon began to put their own

Is it a really high-acid pickle? Is it more delicate? How much

stamp on fermenting and pickling.

salt is in there?”

But mastering a new technique – especially something

And that’s just the pickling. In general, pickling involves

as wild as fermentation – doesn’t happen overnight. Ashley

soaking food in vinegar to inhibit bacterial growth, whereas

Palmer-Watts, Chef Director of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

fermentation occurs when a food’s sugars are broken down

at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, was there when an influx

by microbes – in turn creating acids, which preserve and

of fermented and pickled foods flooded London, and it’s not

flavour the product. Palmer-Watts adds: “To be good at

DINING

“To be good at fermenting needs refining over many years. And when it’s wrong, things don’t taste good.”

ASHLEY PALMER-WATTS

fermenting needs refining over many years. And

kombucha that can be served from the counter.

when it’s wrong, things just don’t taste good.”

We’ve done the lacto-fermenting and now we

The risk of occasionally rendering ingredients

want to work on something new.” One of the

inedible when experimentation goes wrong is

kitchen’s biggest challenges is simply being

clearly something to be wary of, but this is not

able to devote enough time to perfecting the

to say that the techniques are too difficult to

processes involved in fermenting and pickling,

even attempt. Take The Standard, which opened

says Rawson, who has been working flat out

at King’s Cross this summer, where Executive

since the hotel launched in July 2019. “And it is

Chef Adam Rawson doesn’t just dabble in the

a bit harder in hotels,” he admits. “In terms of

subject – he has grand plans for a full-blown

health and safety, you have to be super-dooper

fermentation programme. Kombucha, miso

on it. It’s all about the salt control, temperature

and vinegars are all in the pipeline. For now,

and pH.”

though, his kitchen is enjoying considerable

Scallop, fennel and apple at Da Terra

076

Constantly

adjusting

salt

levels

and

success with its innovative pickling programme.

temperatures, all while keeping the pH level

On the menu, there are whole pickled carrots as

below 5, might sound fairly labour-intensive,

part of the crudité starter; cultured butter and

but the team at The Standard is determined to

sourdough bread; and pickled courgettes, which

make it work. “The trick is finding the space,

come served with burrata and dill.

and someone to manage it...it can get out of

“I’m also making a hopped kombucha,”

control,” adds Rawson. “That’s why we’re

Rawson adds. “That’s the next wave of

starting with the lacto-fermentation, because

development – I’d like to make a house

it’s manageable.”

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DINING

“In terms of health and safety, you have to be super-dooper on it. It’s all about the salt control, temperature and pH.” ADAM RAWSON

Another challenge is the public’s occasional

The solution? Subtlety. Gently bringing in

misunderstanding of the subject, says Patrick

new flavours without spelling out to guests

Powell, Head Chef of Allegra. The modern

the precise methods used along the way to

European-influenced restaurant at The

create them. The menu at Allegra – like the

Stratford has a seasonal menu, which is directed

new Space Copenhagen-designed restaurant –

by the produce available at its own farm. When

is beautifully understated. “There are ways to

there’s a glut of fruit and vegetables, Powell

introduce it without saying, ‘this is something

turns to pickling and fermenting to help him

that we’ve fermented for you’,” he explains.

preserve surplus ingredients. The kitchen uses

“We’re careful with the wording.”

both techniques in various ways – but you

One example is the sauce accompanying

wouldn’t necessarily know it from looking at

the roast suckling pig dish; half reduced pork

the menu. “I think more people have become

sauce, half fermented turnip juice. “It’s quite

educated in it, but there are still a lot of people

amazing,” says Powell. “Instead of it being a

who see it as something that’s gone off,” says

heavy cloying thing that sticks to your palate, it

Powell. “I think a lot of people will consider it

makes it a lot lighter, raises the flavour profile,

as something that’s gone bad.”

and helps cut through the fattiness of the pork.

You can add so many layers to a dish that the customer may never know about, but they’ll appreciate it when they taste it. That’s the goal, to make things as delicious as can be.” As long as the end result is indeed delicious, Powell

Grilled potatoes, pickled cucumber, sour cream and dill at Allegra

believes the revival of fermentation and pickling techniques is here to stay. “Like all trends, good things come from them,” he concludes.

Pickling is also proving its worth in other, highly practical ways. In fine-dining restaurant Da Terra at Town Hall Hotel, the kitchen relies on pickling to turn unused trimmings into flavour-packed ingredients. Co-owner Rafael Cagali didn’t get completely swept up in the briney wave of fermentation, but he does quietly use the technique in his eclectic Latin American-meets-Italian dishes as a tool to minimise food waste.

If there’s a tomato dish on the menu, for example, any trimmings are fermented for use on future dishes. Specifically, they will be left for up to a week in a sous-vide bag, which expands with gas as the alcoholic fermentation takes place. “When the bag is puffed up, and you can see it’s lively and bubbly inside, that’s how you tell it’s a healthy one,” explains Cagali.

“We end up having this super salty, fizzy tomato water, which we add to dress the tomato when we use it fresh, for instance.”

Far from being a fad, fermenting and pickling are helping chefs reduce waste and save money – a vital consideration given the tight margins that many hotel restaurants must work to.

Combine this with the punchy, inimitable flavour profiles that these techniques deliver, © Sam A Harris

078

and it’s easy to see why chefs are using them more and more in the kitchen. In London, at least, renewed interest in these traditional skills shows no signs of fizzling out anytime soon.

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Four Seasons Pop Down London took place in a 21,000ft2 space in Camden

DINING

Four Seasons Pop Down London The experiential series lands in Camden, showcasing the talents of 15 top chefs and bartenders from Four Seasons properties around the world.

Words: Richard Frost

H

otel brands are increasingly

company turn an empty concrete building into

waking up to the vital role that

an urban garden in its hometown of Toronto,

F&B can play in driving revenue

rework a former high school into a vibrant

growth, with many guests now

rooftop destination in Philadelphia, take over

choosing where to stay based

a superyacht in Miami, and convert a tiny

primarily on the quality of a

storefront into a quirky visitor attraction in

property’s restaurants and bars. The lure of

Hong Kong – each one showcasing exceptional

being able to try the signature dish of a top chef,

food and drink from its enviable roster of talent.

or sample cocktails by a master mixologist,

For the fifth instalment, this time at Camden

right on the doorstep cannot be underestimated,

Town’s Hawley Wharf Basement in north

particularly among younger demographics

London, Four Seasons spared no expense

whose purchasing decisions are often influenced

in creating its biggest Pop Down to date for

by the desire to seek out memorable experiences

an invite-only guest list, transforming the

that can be easily shared on social media. On the

21,000ft2 space into a self-styled ‘underground

face of it, the world’s top hospitality companies

playground’, replete with an enormous LED-

would seem to be perfectly placed to tap into

lit swing, carousel, bouncy castle, photo booth,

this trend – given that they frequently employ

nightclub-style lighting and booming sound

the biggest names in food and drink – yet all

system. The beats came courtesy of electronic

too often they seem to sell themselves short by

duo Disclosure – an act more commonly

failing to draw attention to the true breadth and

associated with star turns at Glastonbury,

depth of their offering.

Coachella and Lollapalooza – but the real draw

This is certainly not an accusation that could

on the night was the presence of no fewer than

be levelled at Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts,

15 top chefs and bartenders, each of whom had

which has hit upon the clever idea of running a

lovingly created dishes and cocktails inspired

series of attention-grabbing immersive events

by their childhood.

bringing together the best artisans from its

These included culinary legend Anne-Sophie

properties around the world. Previous editions

Pic – just days before her restaurant at Four

of the Four Seasons Pop Down have seen the

Seasons Hotel London Ten Trinity Square

DINING

was awarded its second Michelin star – who

Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya

our hotels and resorts,” says Christian Clerc,

personally presented guests with a wonderfully

River) and Sophie Larrouture (of Four Seasons

President of Worldwide Hotel Operations. “Pop

aromatic dish featuring pasta parcels filled

Hotel des Bergues Geneva), both stationed on a

Down – always somewhere unexpected, always

with Gruyère cheese, mushrooms, woodruff,

spectacular raised bar slowly rotating through

full of surprises – connects Four Seasons with

sobacha and hazelnuts, named ‘Berlingots’ in

360 degrees at the heart of the venue.

new people in new places in a deeply immersive

honour of a pyramid-shaped boiled sweet from

Organisers had clearly pulled out all the stops

her youth. Two more Michelin-starred chefs,

in an effort to deliver memorable experiences for

In London, the consensus from those

Dani Garcia and Erik Anderson, also made their

those attending too. Bartender Valentino Longo

attending was overwhelmingly positive, with

first appearances with Four Seasons ahead of

of Four Seasons Hotel at The Surf Club brought

guests revelling in the heady mix of gourmet

opening new restaurant concepts in Madrid and

along a prop straight out of an amusement

creations, mixological masterpieces and

Napa Valley respectively. The drinks offering,

arcade, a claw vending machine containing

cutting-edge audiovisuals. The journalists

meanwhile, was spearheaded by renowned

transparent spheres filled with Negroni

and influencers attending were also quick to

mixologists like Philip Bischoff (of the upcoming

Sbagliato; guests who successfully managed to

document every moment on social media,

pick one up were then roundly congratulated

grabbing selfies with top chefs or posing for

by the bar team, and promptly served the drink

photos next to the many strategically positioned

over ice. And pastry chef Yudith Bustos of Four

signs emblazoned with the company’s logo and

Seasons Hotel Washington DC had her very own

the #fourseasonspopdown hashtag, ensuring

wheel of fortune – players were invited to spin it

the true reach of this experiential pop-up

to determine which of her Costa Rican-inspired

extended far beyond the few hundred names

sweets would be served up next.

on the guest list. If Four Seasons’ goal was to

Botton Left: The immersive event featured a carousel, a bouncy castle and an LED-lit swing. Bottom Right: Master mixologist Philip Bischoff mixed drinks on a spectacular rotating bar

082

way showcasing the very best of the brand.”

“The heart and soul of Four Seasons is found

raise the profile of its global F&B offering, they

in our people, whose unlimited creativity and

can certainly consider it mission accomplished

generous spirit goes far beyond the walls of

on this evidence.

S/S 2020

Bloomingville

12—14 January Olympia London

DESIGN

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topdrawer.co.uk/supper

Epicurean Experiences Combining a passion for gastronomy with thoughtful and holistic design solutions, Goddard Littlefair launches a dedicated new F&B agency.

Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: © Kristy Noble

A

n Epicurean is a person devoted to sensual

service-driven attitude’, and so the decision to

enjoyment, especially that derived from

expand felt like a natural progression in many

fine food and drink. Goddard Littlefair,

ways. “We’re working closely with owners,

the London-based luxury interior design

operators and brands, so you get to know what

house, may well have had that in mind when

they are looking for and what is missing,”

developing the vision behind its new sister

explains Littlefair. “We got the strong feeling

company; Epicurean, as it is called, specialises

that F&B within the hospitality world is almost

in creating and developing F&B concepts across

like the holy grail. If you can get a successful

both hotels and standalone venues.

restaurant and bar working in a fantastic hotel,

In some respects, this move builds upon

it’s the icing on the cake.”

Goddard Littlefair’s existing track record of

To tap into this market, the co-founders

delivering projects for the likes of The Gleneagles

concentrated on recruiting staff with a strong

Hotel in Scotland, the restaurant within

background in restaurant and bar design.

Corinthia Hotel St Petersburg and The Garden

“Martin and I are very respectful of other

restaurant at The Principal Edinburgh Charlotte

designers and how they work - we saw a lot

Square. The team also worked on revamping

of energy, enthusiasm, and passion for food,”

The Lowry Hotel in Salford, specifically the

notes Littlefair. “We wanted to create a package

Presidential Suite and public spaces - a fitting

for people to use our experience and knowledge

location then for the design house, supported by

to deliver something that is on point, aware of

Supper, to host the launch of Epicurean.

its location and what the chef is capable of,

Established by Martin Goddard and Jo

and synergise that with our understanding of

Littlefair in 2012, Goddard Littlefair prides

hotels.” The ambitious new venture provides

itself on combining ‘aesthetic perfectionism

an end-to-end service, including interior

and boundless curiosity with a team-playing

development, procurement, uniform and OS&E

DINING

DINING

“We got the strong feeling that F&B within the hospitality world is almost like the holy grail. If you can get a successful restaurant and bar working in a fantastic hotel, it’s the icing on the cake.”

JO LITTLEFAIR

086

direction, as well as kitchen and bar design, strategy and branding.

Over the next few months, the team plans to put its holistic approach into action on

“The thing about Epicurean is that it thinks

projects including the eagerly anticipated Villa

about the whole process holistically, from front

Copenhagen. This transformation of the former

to back,” she continues. “We really examine

Central Post & Telegraph Head Office aims to

what’s going on in the local area, the trends

accentuate the building’s historic aspects while

influencing it, everything from the design

also introducing contemporary Nordic designs

down to the knife and fork on the plate. Things

across its four F&B spaces. Exploring the idea

like creating space for people to breathe, the

of versatility, the former sorting room will

distance between tables and the operational

house the hotel’s breakfast space and bakery;

requirements, all of that thought process goes

in designing the hotel’s other culinary spaces,

into the design concept.”

meanwhile, Epicurean has sought to respect

Epicurean will be headed up by Goddard

the non-hierarchical underpinnings of Danish

Littlefair Associate Lucy Robinson, who has

dining, while drawing on its interiors expertise

over a decade of hospitality experience, and

and hospitality prowess to deliver a thoughtful,

loves travelling around Europe on weekends

contemporary and functional scheme.

to discover the latest developments in fine

Goddard Littlefair has certainly come a long

dining, street food and everything in between.

way in the last few years, with its growing

“Informality is key at the moment, with a new

reputation backed up by an impressive portfolio

generation of chefs coming front of house to

of work. Now with the launch of Epicurean, it is

serve the guests,” she reflects, before adding

clearly laying the groundwork for the next phase

that hotels are increasingly seeking “softer and

of expansion, one that reflects the increasing

cosier environments where people can sit from

importance of providing high-quality F&B

breakfast until dinner”.

across the hospitality industry.

W W W. D I B B E R N . D E

DIB321899_Anz_Coffee-to-go_236x275.indd 1

24.10.19 12:07

Steelite’s Vesuvius range spans a variety of plates, bowls and platters

Š The Image Factory

DINING

Going Green As customers increasingly call on hotels to reduce their carbon footprints, suppliers are springing into action by launching a host of premium eco-friendly products.

Words: Richard Frost

C

oncerns

man-made

because “now we have a consumer who is

climate change are nothing

about

knowledgeable, aware and responsible”. There

new, but there are signs that the

are signs that the industry is beginning to heed

issue is now rapidly moving up

the call too, with the SRA’s website listing high-

the political agenda thanks to

profile establishments like Blanc’s Belmond Le

high-profile interventions from

Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire, The

the likes of Extinction Rebellion, Sir David

Ritz in London, The Pig in Brockenhurst and Sir

Attenborough and Leonardo DiCaprio. This

Richard Branson’s luxury ski chalet The Lodge

in turn is prompting consumers to become

in Verbier among its members. Embracing

increasingly worried about how their lifestyle

sustainability can take a variety of forms, of

choices are affecting the planet, and many are

course – Blanc recommends upgrading kitchen

actively looking for ways to reduce their carbon

equipment, reducing waste and minimising

footprint. In the hospitality sector, for example,

consumption of natural resources as just

some are consciously choosing to spend their

some of the measures that venues can take. In

hard-earned money in hotels, restaurants

practical terms, one of the key decisions that

and bars with strong green credentials, and

hotels can make is to source products from

shunning brands whose approach is perceived

suppliers with a strong commitment towards

to be damaging the environment.

protecting the environment.

Adding to the momentum, Sustainable

Steelite, which is headquartered at Stoke-

Restaurant Association (SRA) President

on-Trent in the heart of the Potteries, certainly

Raymond Blanc delivered a rousing keynote

boasts impressive green credentials; the

at the Global Restaurant Investment Forum in

hospitality tableware manufacturer installed a

Amsterdam earlier this year urging investors,

market-leading Lamella system for recycling

owners, operators and consultants to adopt

clay waste in 2007 that dramatically reduced

eco-friendly working practices, not least

the amount of material discarded during

© ADP Photostudios

090

DINING

Top: Dibbern’s Coffee-To-Go Cup is made from highquality fine bone china Bottom: Launched in collaboration with the Eden Project, LSA’s Canopy collection uses 100% recycled glass

production, and it was certified by the SRA as an

suited for use in hotel F&B, as well as some elegant

approved supplier for the hospitality industry in 2013.

flower vases and planters.

The business, formed in 1983 following the purchase

Over in Germany, Dibbern has been producing

of Royal Doulton’s hotelware division, is a significant

timeless designs that eschew pandering to short-

player globally too, producing more than 500,000

lived fads ever since the tableware manufacturer was

pieces of tableware every week and exporting to over

founded in the 1960s. Many of its products use fine

140 countries.

bone china, a premium material offering exceptional

Steelite’s new Vesuvius range of plates, bowls

durability as well as a beautiful radiance, making

and platters – part of its Performance collection of

it highly sought-after by the world’s luxury and

smart, functional and affordable tableware – perfectly

boutique hotels.

illustrates the company’s approach. These products are

One such example is Dibbern’s stylish new Coffee-

made from strong and durable alumina vitrified clay

To-Go Cup; made from high-quality fine bone china,

bodies, greatly reducing the frequency of chipping and

and fitted with BPA-free non-toxic lids and vegetable

breakage incidents, and ensuring customers do not

tanned leather sleeves, it is a world away from the

have to worry about their carbon footprint spiralling

everyday drinking vessels routinely handed out to

upwards as a result of constant reordering.

customers in mainstream coffee shops. Hotels can

Meanwhile, LSA International has been working

even customise the cups by adding their own logos or

to minimise its environmental impact ever since the

corporate designs, making them an excellent option

family-owned drinkware, tableware and accessories

for properties with their own cafes or shops – as

supplier was established in 1966. Creative Director

well as those delivering premium in-room packages

Monika Lubkowska-Jonas, whose father co-founded

– that are looking to spread the word about their

the Surrey-based business, uses high-quality

commitment to protecting the environment.

materials – specifically glass, porcelain, leather,

For hospitality professionals, there is a clear

wood and enamelled steel – and complex artisanal

financial logic underpinning all of this, with more

techniques to create distinctive products that stand

and more consumers seeking to make informed

the test of time.

purchasing decisions based on carefully considering a

A perfect case in point is Canopy, a new collection

brand’s core values, rather than just quality or price.

made from 100% recycled glass launched in

However, there is also a moral imperative to consider

collaboration with the Eden Project, the educational

too, and hotels are by no means exempt from a wider

charity behind the world-famous ecotourism

societal drive towards tackling global warming by

attraction in Cornwall. This product range is inspired

transitioning from reckless profligacy into responsible

by the themes of hydration and propagation, and

low-carbon economies. As Blanc himself neatly put it

encompasses a variety of dishwater-safe tumblers,

during his rapturously received speech: “We need to

highballs, beer glasses, carafes and ice buckets ideally

change, we can’t keep going on as we used to.”

091

SIGNATURE Morello Cherry Soufflé Les Fresques Hôtel Royal SWITZERLAND

The grand finale of the in-suite Royal Dinner 110 menu – which celebrates Hôtel Royal’s 110th anniversary – and also available at the property’s Michelin-starred restaurant Les Fresques, this striking soufflé is accompanied by Morello cherry marmalade and almond ice cream. Created

by Head Pastry Chef Stéphane Arrête, the signature dessert references a devastating fire that struck the hotel in 1958, with a locally made kirsch liqueur set alight and poured over the dish in front of guests.

Served on an elegant gold-rimmed plate by JL Coquet, the soufflé has proved so popular that some diners come back from afar simply to taste it again, according to Arrête. It forms part of a luxurious menu offered to heads of state during the G8 Summit held at the hotel in 2003.

Originally built in honour of King Edward VII – who died before ever having the chance to visit – Hôtel Royal has welcomed famous names like Edith Piaf, Greta Garbo, Marcel Proust and Ray Charles down the years.

The historic property underwent a large-scale refurbishment in 2015 and gained official Palace status a year later, followed by a Michelin star for its Les Fresques restaurant in 2018.

© Pascal Reynaud

SIGNATURE

Scottish Scallop and Yuzu Kitchen at Holmes Holmes Hotel LONDON

Formerly known as Park Plaza Sherlock Holmes, the 118-

Italian crudo. Its centrepiece is a thinly sliced scallop in a

room Holmes Hotel reopened earlier this year following a

dressing made from frozen yuzu juice, white soy sauce, olive

£9 million investment by PPHE Hotel Group to reposition

oil, vegetable oil and salt; this is accompanied by finely diced

the property and capitalise on the high-end development

green chilli peppers, blanched broad beans, freshly picked

seen throughout Marylebone in recent years. The group’s

baby basil leaves, and thin shavings of radish, Italian celery

first premium boutique hotel includes a new 50-cover

and asparagus. Each element is carefully positioned on an

concept restaurant, Kitchen at Holmes, which takes its cue

attractive Surrey Ceramics plate with irregular edges that was

from the changing seasons, and features an unusually high

custom-made for the restaurant’s opening.

number of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Unlike

“I wanted to create something that could be appreciated

its predecessor, the stylish all-day venue also has its own

either as a light bite or as a perfect starter for your meal,”

entrance onto Baker Street, as well as an open kitchen area

explains Motta, whose internationally minded menu also

where customers can watch their food being plated.

incorporates ingredients from the likes of Spain, Norway and

This refreshing Scottish Scallop and Yuzu dish, created by well-travelled Head Chef Stefano Motta, is inspired by an

Alaska. “The sweet buttery flavour of the scallop is perfectly balanced by the bitter citrus notes of the yuzu.”

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Wolgan Gin at One&Only Wolgan Valley in New South Wales

© Jackielyn Powell

SIPPING

Gin, Tonic and a Room for Two Hotels around the world are successfully tapping into their guests’ growing interest in discovering high-quality gins.

Words: Nina Caplan

I

f ever there was a spirit for our times,

clearly aiming the hotel side of the operation

that spirit is gin: there seems no limit to

squarely at gin-lovers.

the number of different flavours, price

This kind of brand extension has a certain

points and ideas that this drink, which is

indisputable logic, for sure, since anyone who

essentially flavoured vodka, can comfortably

loves the drink will already be warmly disposed

accommodate. So it makes sense that a

towards the place behind it. The Chase family,

range of innovative hotels are using gin’s

which makes gin and other spirits from a base

individuality to express their own, and enticing

in Herefordshire, has seemingly made a similar

in the world’s ever-increasing number of

calculation, buying nearby country-house hotel

connoisseurs in the process.

Verzon House, as has the Adnams dynasty with

Sometimes, hotels decide to adopt a gin;

The Swan over in Suffolk: both properties

sometimes, gin adopts a hotel. In London, a

incorporate tours of the distillery, and offer the

decade ago, the inventors of Portobello Road

opportunity for guests to enjoy the contents on

(the gin) opened a bar in Portobello Road (the

the premises, or in the comfort of their own

place); recently, they’ve added an education

homes. Of course, it’s no problem if somebody

space, the Ginstitute, a restaurant with a wide

books in just because they like the décor or the

selection of gins (“but it’s more about quality

location, but affection for a favoured spirit can

than quantity,” says owner Ged Feltham), and

run deep – particularly in these times where

bedrooms featuring record players, vinyl – and,

loyalties are tested by the sheer number of

of course, a complimentary Martini and Negroni

brands and flavours available.

waiting in the fridge. This four-floor gin mecca

England has led the recent gin renaissance,

is collectively called The Distillery. “I always

which is unsurprising perhaps when you

love it when you visit a distillery and you can

consider that England has been crazy about the

actually stay onsite,” explains Feltham, who is

juniper-based spirit, at some points literally,

SIPPING

ever since the drink was first brought over from Holland in the 17th century. Anyone who has seen artist William Hogarth’s drawing of Gin Lane – mothers letting their babies fall to their deaths while they nurse the precious liquor, men either involved in devilry or already dead – will appreciate how far the category has come in the UK since its earliest days. But, in truth, the spirit’s popularity has now spread across the world.

In a remote valley in New South Wales, Australia, a premium resort is making high-quality gin as a way to both add value for guests and express the magic of the place: much like wine, gin, for One&Only Wolgan Valley, offers a taste of the terroir. So, the water for the distillation comes from Carne Creek on the spectacular 7,000-acre property; and the botanicals include lemon tea-tree, which grows there. The distillery where 1832 Wolgan Gin (named for the year the valley was first settled by white Australians) is made is in Bathurst, just down the road – insofar as anything is down the road from this secluded valley. And the gin is available nowhere else, so exclusivity (a bottle costs AUD$140, or about £75) adds to the gastronomic appeal.

In Singapore, meanwhile, one of the city-state’s most venerable names has linked up with one of the erstwhile mother country’s newest to produce a hotel-and-gin collaboration unlike any other. Raffles, the stately and luxurious old-world hotel, has form when it comes to gin: © MGM Resorts International

the Singapore Sling, one of the most beloved cocktails in existence, was invented here in its peanut shell-strewn Long Bar, by bartender Ngiam Tong Boon, in 1915. Now the eponymous hotel chain, which reopened its flagship property in August 2019 after a two-year refurbishment programme, has joined forces with Sipsmith to create a bespoke spirit, Raffles 1915 Gin, for its exclusive use. And this is not the only link between the pair: Sipsmith’s co-founder Sam Galsworthy is the great-great-great nephew of Sir Stamford Raffles, founder of modern Singapore, for whom the hotel

“There has been a global uptick in the general interest in gin, especially when it comes to craft cocktails featuring the spirit.”

Marshall Altier

was named. Like 1832 Wolgan Gin, the drink incorporates local botanicals – including cardamom and jasmine flowers – to give guests a liquid sense of place, and is named so as to reference the passage of time: specifically, the year the Singapore Sling was invented. The synergy is as smooth as tonic in gin.

Elsewhere, the move towards gin feels like a more conventional calculation that, if a spirit’s popularity is currently off the charts, a hotel can only benefit from offering a wide range, especially if it is innovatively and knowledgeably presented. In Las Vegas, the new Park MGM includes the Juniper Cocktail Lounge, boasting the city’s largest collection of gins; and in Miami Beach, Kimpton Angler’s Hotel has Minnow Bar, also featuring an impressive selection of gins and drawing customers in thanks to a relatively new and increasing interest in cocktails among locals, as well as the longstanding keenness of tourists.

Dirty Martini at Juniper Cocktail Lounge in Las Vegas

098

Admittedly, MGM Resorts International Corporate Mixologist Marshall Altier points out that Juniper’s precise

CAMUS Cognac is a proud partner of world famous chefs and best-in-class mixologists.

Discover the full program on our official YouTube Channel.

©Nicolas VILLION

WWW.CAMUS.FR

CR AFT

MATCH

CHEFS BARTENDERS B Y

C A M U S

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY

SIPPING

Boogie Witch at Minnow Bar in Miami Beach

clientele can be hard to pin down, since it may be

to gain the trust of our guests,” says Juniper’s Altier

the watering-point for fans of such different events

– and he keeps that trust by doling out information

as an Aerosmith residency, a Lady Gaga gig or the

only in palatable quantities. “When it comes to gin

Vegas Golden Knights games next door, though he

knowledge, there is a great deal of information in

does acknowledge that “there has been a global uptick

terms of styles, geography and production methods.

in the general interest in gin, especially when it comes

It can be a bit of a rabbit hole.” But it is one, he

to craft cocktails featuring the spirit”.

cheerfully adds, that the team is happy to go down

For Altier, meanwhile, the US – like the UK – can

100

with guests who show an interest.

claim ownership of this particular liquor. “Gins were

Is this linking of a hotel brand with a popular spirit a

the cornerstone choice for classic cocktails in the

viable long-term plan? Interestingly, Feltham believes

United States pre-Prohibition, which makes them a

gin has peaked, and flavoured gins that are more like

great starting point for conversation,” he says. “The

liqueurs will be the next big thing. This could prove

re-emergence of that cocktail culture has created an

problematic for places that have nailed their colours

explosion in gin brands, gin styles and even craft tonic

to the gin mast; except that, as the Singapore Sling

waters, and we are happy to have a dedicated venue to

shows, gin never really goes out of fashion. Any

showcase and reflect the trend.”

hotel that uses gin to strengthen rather than form its

When following rather than leading a trend, it pays

identity surely has little to worry about. Perhaps in

to be careful. Bartenders at both Minnow and Juniper

the end it’s the unique touches – an adorable cocktail

are happy to get technical – Minnow’s Chris Resnick

glass shaped like a bird at Juniper; a gin masterclass

says he likes nothing more than winning over a bar

in the grounds, with the distiller coming in from

filled with sceptics – but they also need to gauge

Bathurst, at One&Only Wolgan Valley; or homemade

the clientele’s interest in that level of detail. “The

spirits in-room at The Distillery – that make a hotel

cocktails themselves make a great entry point for us

special. The gin itself is just a delicious accessory.

The oldest Wine House in Champagne: Aÿ 1584 SUPPER_GOSSET GRVGROS PLAN_03/2019.indd 1

04/03/2019 14:30

SIPPING

Raise Your Glass Properties are increasingly looking to procure glassware that is both stylish and practical, and premium brands are responding accordingly.

Words: Donna Salek

H

otels simply cannot afford to

For their part, glassware suppliers have

overlook the importance of

not only looked to create visually striking

using high-quality glassware

products, but also to develop designs that

across their F&B operations.

enhance the overall drinking experience in

The temptation, of course,

line with the latest scientific research. A study

when buying supplies in bulk

published in the Journal of Wine Research,

is to opt for standard designs made from

for example, found the intensity of a wine’s

cheap materials in order to keep costs down.

aroma is highly correlated with the ratio of the

However, modern consumers are expecting

cup diameter to the glass opening diameter;

to enjoy more elegant and theatrical drinking

similarly, decanters can come in a number of

experiences than ever before, while those in

distinct shapes and sizes, each perfectly suited

charge of procurement are seeking products

to aerating and oxygenating different varietals

that can withstand the cut-and-thrust of

and blends. Furthermore, it is worth bearing

commercial bars and kitchens, so trying to

in mind that wine is not the only beverage

cut corners in this way would certainly be a

whose characteristics can be influenced by the

false economy.

glass in which it is served — the same applies

Moreover, it is worth remembering that

to beer, spirits and soft drinks.

trends in glass shape, colour and texture are

If there is one quality that unites all of the

constantly changing — one has only to think

top glassware brands, it is their unwavering

back to the dramatic rise of the mason jar for

commitment to innovation, with designers

serving cocktails, for instance. Customers are

constantly striving to create new products that

always on the lookout for the next big thing

look great and can be reused again and again.

and so, in our Instagram-centric world, getting

All of which means that today’s hotels can

the aesthetics right can really make or break

take their pick from an extraordinary variety

an establishment’s reputation on social media.

of first-rate options.

SIPPING

1.

3.

2.

104

1. Metropole LSA International

2. Nude x Remy Savage Nude

3. Pebble Decanter Zieher

Taking its inspiration from iconic Brutalist landmarks around the world, LSA’s mouthblown Metropole collection comprises three decanter designs and one tumbler. Strong architectural silhouettes are consistent throughout the range, highlighting the quality and craftsmanship of each individual piece. The Battersea decanter is inspired by Battersea Power Station, the Malmo by Hyllie Water Tower in southern Sweden, and the Kiev by the eponymous city’s striking structures.

The Metropole tumblers — designed to complement the decanters — also boast a geometric form anchored by a discshaped block of glass at the base. www.lsa-international.com

Nude has unveiled a collection of six new cocktail glasses designed to overcome common challenges in bars. Created in collaboration with famed mixologist Remy Savage, the elegant range comprises: the Coupe, a glass with a shallow bowl perfect for drinks with egg white and ice balls; the Coupetini, a blend between a classic martini glass and a modern Coupette; the Pony, taller and smaller in volume than the traditional style with a rounded base and long, thin stem; the Low and Highball, both robust and subtly flared to avoid chipping; and the Water, with a rounded design that emulates the shape of liquor glasses. www.eu.nudeglass.com

Crafted from high-grade, lead-free crystal glass, Zieher’s Pebble Decanter boasts excellent craftsmanship and brilliance when reflecting light. The expertise of the glass blowers is demonstrated in the intricate shaping of the base, which is sectioned into three convex segments.

These swales, in addition to the long neck, maximise the wine’s surface area, aiding aeration, particularly when the decanter is swirled. In addition, the three bulges underneath ensure the glassware remains stable, while the diagonally cut neck opening and immaculately polished raw edges minimise the formation of drops when pouring. www.zieher.com

International representative: HD Sheldon & Co., Inc Tel: 212-924-6920 E-Mail: sales@hdsheldon.com Web: www.hdsheldon.com

The Sunkist Commercial Juicer is recognized by the industry as one of the most reliable commercial citrus juicers on the market. With its unique metal strainer that oscillates an operator can easily extract between 20-25 gallons of juice per hour using pre-cut citrus. The juicer comes with three extracting bulbs and is made in the USA. Please visit us at our new website: www.sunkistequipment.com

SIPPING

1.

2.

3.

106

1. Starr John Jenkins

2. Edge Rona

3. Experience Stölzle Lausitz

Made by hand from lead-free crystal glass, John Jenkins’ Starr wine glasses are dainty and light — the brand has hailed them as its finest to date. The collection comprises ten styles adapted for different wines, as well as a beer glass and a decanter. The ultra-thin stem of the glasses reduces unnecessary weight and also brings the wine closer to its drinker, while the fine rim enhances the taste of the serve, allows the liquid to flow with ease and adds a touch of elegance to the design. Intended for serious wine enthusiasts, Starr is part of an expansive product portfolio at John Jenkins, one of the UK’s leading suppliers of crystal and glass to the high-end hospitality industry. www.johnjenkins.co.uk

Known for making pioneering technological advancements in glassware throughout its history, Rona was the first manufacturer to produce pressed glass back in 1893.

Characterised by laser treatment to the rims, the Edge collection features lightweight, angular and defined glasses with tapered bowls and slender long stems that accentuate a contemporary style. The Slovakian glassmaker’s latest range is crafted from barium crystalline and comprises a champagne flute, burgundy and bordeaux models, as well as a stylish carafe designed to allow a variety of wines to breathe properly, helping to bring out their unique aroma and flavour characteristics. www.rona.sk

With roots that go far back into history, it is thought that Stölzle Lausitz’s home has been a centre of glassmaking since the middle ages. Drawing upon this rich heritage, its Experience range is crafted from clear lead-free crystal, combining elegant profiles with jointless machine-pulled stems to achieve greater durability and performance.

The seven models within the collection, complemented by a champagne glass and five tumblers, boast sweeping curves and clear tapering, providing connoisseurs with a heightened aroma and flavourful drinking experience across a whole host of different wine types, from strong and dry reds to smooth and fruity whites. www.stoelzle-lausitz.com

When only the best is good enough

The new GIGA X8

Coffee pleasure – freshly ground, not capsuled 32 speciality coffees can be selected via the 4.3" ­touchscreen colour display 2 precision ceramic disc grinders with Automatic Grinder Adjustment (A.G.A.®) for consistently even grinding Speed function: Hot water bypass for perfect speciality coffees in record time plus added user convenience www.jura.com

Ideal areas of use: Hotel restaurants, bars, breakfast rooms, private function areas, hospitality venues Recommended maximum daily output: 200 cups JURA – If you love coffee

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26/8/19 4:54 PM

COCKTAIL

COCKTAIL

Wood Ozone The Ritz-Carlton HONG KONG

Part of Ozone at The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong’s

highest bar. The savoury Water – coconut water

new Five Elements cocktail menu, Wood sees

mixed with vodka and sake served in an oyster

Bob’s Chocolate Bitters and Fernet Hunter

shell decorated with pearl-like bubbles – and

mixed with a base of Alipus Mezcal aged in

refreshing Metal prepare the palate for the more

wooden barrels for a month before serving. With

powerful Fire and Wood, whilst Earth wraps the

hints of bitterness mingling alongside notes of

show up with a flavourful journey through earthy

lavender and citrus, the complex combination

notes of shiitake mushroom-infused plantation

further incorporates Olmeca Reposado and

rum. “If you taste the cocktails in the order of

Mancino Rosso, and a garnish of orange zest.

Water, Metal, Fire, Wood and Earth, you are

The new menu also includes cocktails inspired

going to have a taste of how these five distinct

by the elements of metal, water, fire and earth,

cocktails strike a perfect flavour balance,” says

serving guests a taste of the world from atop its

Oscar Mena, Ozone Bar Manager.

COCKTAIL

Wishful Negroni Seymour’s Parlour The Zetter Townhouse Marylebone LONDON

The Zetter Townhouse Marylebone has launched a new cocktail list in partnership with Matt Whiley and Rich Woods, owners of Hackneybased drinking den Scout, ranked 28 th in the World’s 50 Best Bars list. The innovative menu features ten house serves built around unusual ingredients prized for their therapeutic qualities, such as vetiver, yarrow and clary sage.

Its theme, Potions and Punches, is inspired by the debauched travels of the property’s fictional proprietor Uncle Seymour, who decided to seek out a mystical answer to his ailments after overindulging at countless scandalous parties.

Wishful Negroni combines healing ‘elf oil’ (a type of pine oil) with gin, blackberry-infused Campari, sweet vermouth, petitgrain oil and salted caramel to create a mouth-watering apéritif with an enjoyably fruity finish. It is served over a large ice cube stamped with The Zetter Townhouse logo in a thin and elegant Luigi Bormioli tumbler, accompanied by a fresh blackberry and seasonally changing garnish.

“The fragrance is very oaky and pairs well with the sweetness of the blackberry,” says Bar Manager Nikolai Clerc, who reports that the stylish serve is currently Potions and Punches’ bestseller. “We used to sell a lot of traditional Martinis and Negronis, but this menu is definitely driving guests towards trying our house cocktails.”

The new magazine making waves in the hospitality industry‌ Starboard focuses on the design and development of cruise ships, river boats, sleeper trains and aeroplanes.

Issue 3 coming soon. www.starboardmagazine.com

DRINKS

Original Tonic Sugar-Free Range Magnifique Brands In addition to reinventing its concept and reformulating several drinks, Original Tonic has launched several new flavours, and its sugarfree range now encompasses: Classic Zero, Citrus Zero and Berries Zero.

Characterised by fine bubbles and subtle flavours that complement high-quality spirits, these tonic waters cleverly combine British sophistication with Mediterranean warmth.

Classic Zero carries subtle notes of orange and lemon and delivers a soft citric aroma to a host of different serves; Citrus Zero offers upfront flavours of lime and Italian bergamot, along with touches of grapefruit and bitter orange; and Berries Zero possesses a soft and mild sweetness, culminating in a delicious finish characterised by ripe red fruit.

Besides these sugar-free options, Original Tonic’s varied portfolio also features Classic, Citrus, Berries, Mint, Cherry, Yuzu, Açai and Ginger, and an elegant Ginger Beer.

www.theoriginaltonic.com

113

Grand Millésime 2012 Gosset

Composed of 67% chardonnay and 33% pinot noir with an 8g dosage, Gosset’s Grand Millésime 2012 is a crisp and expressive vintage champagne characterised by upfront aromas of peach and pear.

In the mouth, its lively opening notes are followed up by a fine palate of stone fruits, damson and mirabelle plum, with added hints of mouth-watering grapefruit. The lingering finish delivers a welcome burst of acidity, meanwhile, leaving the palate eager for a second taste.

“Quality does not have to come with great age,” says Odilon de Varine, Gosset’s Cellar Master. “This is a fresh and elegant vintage in which chardonnay expresses itself fully.”

www.champagne-gosset.com

114

DRINKS

VSOP Cognac Camus Family-owned and operated for five generations, Camus makes its cognacs using a bespoke distillation process in which the heads are extracted and tasted litre by litre, before a small portion – highly concentrated in aromas – is reintegrated for a richer finish.

Distinguished by the high level of terpinols resulting in unmatched floral scents, this VSOP features some of the best eaux-devie from the Borderies Cru; on the nose, it balances tannins and fresh notes, while on the palate, it showcases fruity flavours accompanied by hints of vanilla and spice.

As part of Camus’ Craftmatch-Chefs & Bartenders program, in which a renowned cook and mixologist are brought together to create an innovative pairing using its cognacs, Michelin-starred Clément Bouvier teamed up with Thierry Malikian of Parisian drinking den Le Calbar. Bouvier created a recipe for Lavaret en Gravlax, marinating fish fillets in VSOP, while Malikian crafted the Smoky Igloo – a cocktail that mixes the cognac with homemade gingerbread syrup, dried betel leaf and ice cubes.

www.camus.fr

115

Highland Rye Arbikie Highland Estate

Multimillésime No.7 Cognac Frapin

Owned by the Stirling brothers, Arbikie has now unveiled Highland Rye, thought to be the first rye whisky distilled in Scotland for over 100 years. Laid down in 2015, the premium spirit combines Arantes rye, Odyssey malted barley and Viscount wheat – all grown on the family’s farm, honouring the brand’s field-to-bottle ethos. It was initially distilled in a copper pot, before being matured in first-fill charred American oak casks, and finished in Pedro Ximénez barrels with no colouring and no-chill filtration. Showcasing flavours of orange marmalade, cloves and maple-syrup, there are only 998 bottles to be sold worldwide, making it a truly rare and exclusive whisky.

A quite exceptional spirit, Multimillésime No.7 is the newest release from Cognac Frapin’s Trésors du Château collection.

It combines three vintages, 1989, 1991 and 1993, chosen for their sensory potential and complementary characteristics.

The cognac boasts a bright colour with golden highlights, and its bouquet initially shows floral qualities, followed by lime aromas, then fruity notes of orange, citrus and dried fig. On the palate, this aromatic depth is reflected by the delicious candied flavours of orange, apricot and vanilla that gradually melt into a subtlety and complexity typical of a Grande Champagne cognac distilled over the lees, before concluding with a long and persistent finish.

www.highlandryewhisky.com

116

www.cognac-frapin.com

DRINKS

Lemon & Leaf Rum Spirited Union Distillery

Rosé Lillet

Lemon & Leaf, created by Spirited Union Distillery in Amsterdam, is the world’s first botanical white rum. The spirit is the brand’s second expression after Spice & Sea Salt, and both explore the trend of using botanicals in distillation. An Agricole-style rum from Mauritius, Lemon & Leaf is made with lemons grown along the Amalfi Coast combined with blue eucalyptus leaves to create a pleasing balance of refreshing citrus and herbal characteristics. When fused with Sri Lankan highland black tea, the rum’s unique grassy notes produce a light and minty flavour profile, whilst the earthy tones of kina bark together with Sarawak pepper and sarsaparilla root round off the spirit with a complex and spicy finish.

Invented by two brothers in 1872 and now part of Pernod Ricard, Lillet has a longstanding reputation within the drinks industry for its carefully crafted flavour profile, and the Rosé displays a similar attention to detail. Created in the wine cellars of Podensac south of Bordeaux, this subtle apéritif is made by blending together a selection of elegant wines and fruit infusions. On the nose, it possesses light aromas of berries, orange blossom and grapefruit while, on the palate, the balanced structure complements its fresh, lively and fruity characteristics. An incredibly versatile product, it is ideally suited to use in long drinks, mixed into tonic or combined with champagne.

www.spirited-union.com

www.lillet.com

117

+

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Nielsen CGA’s comprehensive Hotel Report provides unprecedented insight into consumer drinking behaviors + preferences within the hotel channel.

Revealing why, what, when and where hotel guests + visitors choose to drink, The Hotel Report enables retailers, distributors, suppliers and hoteliers to make strategic, data-driven decisions as they expand into new areas of the lucrative hospitality industry.

To learn more about The Hotel Report, email hello@nielsencga.com. Be sure to quote SUPPERHOTEL2019 for an exclusive discount.

o

EVENTS DIARY

10-11 NOV

12

NOV

13

NOV

18

NOV

HX New York www.thehotelexperience.com

Top Hotel World Tour New York www.thpworldtour.com

AHEAD MEA Dubai www.aheadawards.com

AHEAD Europe London www.aheadawards.com

19-20 NOV

12-14 JAN

17-21 JAN

7-11 FEB

Sleep & Eat London www.sleepandeatevent.com

Top Drawer London www.topdrawer.co.uk

Maison & Objet Paris www.maison-objet.com

Ambiente Frankfurt www.ambiente.messefrankfurt.com

11-13 FEB

3-5

MAR

3-6

MAR

13-17 MAR

GRIF Amsterdam www.grif.com

HRC London www.hrc.co.uk

Food&Hotel Asia Singapore www.foodnhotelasia.com

Internorga Hamburg www.internorga.com

119

Top Drawer 8-10 September 2019 LONDON

The latest edition of Top Drawer, one of the

Director of Tara Bernerd & Partners, who

UK’s leading lifestyle and interiors trade shows,

worked on Il Pampero at the The Hari in London,

returned to Olympia London this September

explored the topic of indigenous design and the

– welcoming a strong roster of designers and

intersection between local culture and interiors,

exhibitors, including high-profile names in

while lauded furniture and tableware designer

tableware and kitchenware, alongside those from

Daniel Schofield took to the stage to discuss

the fashion, gift, wellbeing and retail sectors.

craft, creativity and blending contemporary

This three-day event boasts a distinctive edit

Alejandra Campos, Top Drawer Show Director,

carefully curated brands, giving visitors access

says: “The co-location with Pulse, which is

to a variety of launches as well as expert advice

known for presenting the next wave of design

and trend-led insights. Among those taking part

talent, made for the perfect complement to our

were the likes of Alessi, Amara, Barton Croft,

existing offering. With the union of the two

Clayspoon, Edit Juhasz Ceramics and Serax.

shows, visitors had, and will continue to have,

For the very first time, meanwhile, Top Drawer

the ability to explore the largest presentation

was co-located with Pulse, an event known for

of commercially ready emerging brands and

showcasing the next wave of design talent.

design, as well as the industry’s larger, more

Elsewhere, the Design Talks programme

recognised names.”

featured a host of panels and seminars seeking

The spring edition of Top Drawer will take

to stimulate debate and offer specialist analysis

place once again at Olympia London from 12-14

on the latest developments shaping the industry.

For example, Michelle Hughes, Managing

120

aesthetics with traditional techniques.

of more than 1,000 design-led highlights from

January 2020.

www.topdrawer.co.uk

EVENTS

Sleep & Eat 18-19 November 2019 LONDON

© Wonderhatch

Sleep & Eat, Europe’s leading hotel design event, will return to Olympia London in November to explore the very latest developments in hospitality experience via curated conference, exhibition and concept room strands. Guided by this year’s theme of Social FlexAbility, each element of the show will consider the important issues surrounding digital disconnect in the modern age, and the power of hotels to pioneer spaces encouraging more social engagement.

The 2019 installment will mark the first edition to combine the two key topics, sleeping and eating, through its conference strand, with this year’s programme curated by Supper Consulting Editor Heleri Rande. Free to attend, the food-focused discussions include a panel session with F&B leaders Lydia Forte, Group Director of F&B at Rocco Forte Hotels; Gustaf Pilebjer, Director of Food & Beverage for Europe at Marriott International; Karina Elias of The Langham; and Anurag Bali of Shangri-La International, as well a conversation on pushing the boundaries of F&B environments between Richard Coutts, Director, Baca Architects and Ben Fitzgerald, Operations Director, CoreMarine, both specialists in creating memorable hospitality experiences beneath the waves.

“The keynotes and panels at this year’s conference reflect the brands, design studios, architectural practices, operators, astronauts, engineers, owners and leaders who are great examples of fostering meaningful connection as it pertains to hospitality,” Rande explains. “Whether the discussions are focused on design language, underwater architectural engineering, environmental responsibility, delivering hospitality in space, F&B concepts or

better and for worse. Our premise is that hoteliers, restaurateurs

daily operational management, they will all dance around the

and their designers can be in the vanguard of promoting the

same theme of facilitating human interaction.”

human interaction that has been lost by providing guests with

Elsewhere, as part of the annual Sets strand – comprising a

the chance to reconnect with others in person, or indeed connect

series of concept guestrooms and dining spaces created in line

with themselves. The challenge is to provide flexible spaces

with the show’s theme by leading design firms – Manchester-

where users can activate the social experience of their choice.”

based studio SpaceInvader will craft a bar with the intention

Last but not least, the Sleeper Bar – a dedicated space at the

of generating conversation, whilst Name Architecture is set to

heart of the exhibition floor for networking and relaxing – will

create a restaurant space focused on adaptable functionality

this year be designed by London and New York-based studio

by way of a table designed in a continuous plane that fosters

Michaelis Boyd; it will interpret Jean Giono’s short story The

social stimulation.

Man Who Planted Trees as a sustainable installation formed

Mark Gordon, Director of Sleep & Eat, notes: “Technology and social media have irrevocably changed the way we live, for

primarily of timber, where delegates will be able to pick up the latest issues of both Sleeper and Supper.

121

© André Farah

© Bernard N Khalil

122

SPOTLIGHT

Silver Service The journey of silverware producer Siom Orfèvres from the streets of Beirut to hotels of international standing is a tale of dedicated craft and unwavering attention to detail.

Words: Jenna Campbell

I

n the heart of Lebanon’s capital lies the bustling

serveware, buffetware, serving trolleys, tea-

mixing stainless steel and glass as well as

district of Hamra, a neighbourhood which

making equipment and champagne accessories,

leather to provide a highly tailored service

embodies the city’s cultural transformation

Siom supplies a number of prestigious hotel

experience. “We have always been receptive

from provincial port to urbane metropolis. At

operators around the world including Marriot

to innovative propositions, trends and tastes,”

one time regarded as Beirut’s Champs-Élysées,

International, AccorHotels, Jumeirah Group and

reflects Baroud, who acknowledges the unique

the locality is also where the story of Siom

Rosewood Hotel Group. Its international success

advantage of being located on the threshold

Orfèvres – the largest producer of silverware in

and reputation are rooted in an unwavering

between east and west. “We consider that a

the Middle East – began more than fifty years

ethos of class, distinction and quality, married

great enrichment from which we can come up

ago. Founded in 1967 as a small shop making and

with an ability to adapt to clients’ changing

with new and creative designs for our products.”

selling limited ranges for fine dining and gifting,

requirements and tastes. “I believe what makes

From humble beginnings to its present

the business has grown exponentially to become

Siom products stand out from the competition

global reach, Siom Orfèvres has certainly come

a leading manufacturer of high-quality stainless

is first and foremost the craftmanship, coupled

a long way, and Baroud is confident that as

steel and silverware, supplying five-star hotels,

with the cutting-edge technology used in all

long as the luxury sector exists, so too will the

restaurants, the international hospitality sector

stages of production for each article,” notes

company. “Silverware will always have its place

and luxury retail markets, expanding to over 25

Baroud. “Secondly, but equally important, the

in the fine-dining sector as well as the hotels

countries around the world.

design of our products ranges from traditional

that pride themselves on the opulence of their

to modern elegance.”

service,” he concludes. “Silver is a pure and

The company’s hotel range is designed to cater to all tastes and lifestyles. “Whether classical

Throughout its history, Siom has continuously

or modern, oriental or royal, conventional

sought to embrace the latest technological

or contemporary, they are all imprinted by

advancements in order to cater towards both

know-how, taste and the finest quality,” notes

European and Middle Eastern markets; the

Antoine Baroud, a Managing Partner at Siom

expansion of its headquarters in the late 1990s

Orfèvres. Nowadays its head office is located

also facilitated a move to meet ISO 9001 quality

at a larger premises in Mazraat Yachouh, just

standards. But while its collections frequently

outside the capital, from where the business

showcase designs focusing on pure lines, soft

produces an expansive portfolio comprising

curves and virtuous shapes, the company

more than 3,000 items.

is keen not to tie itself down to a particular

With unique collections developed to meet

direction. Its flatware range, for example, gives

exquisite requirements, encompassing cutlery,

customers a choice of 18 different models,

noble material that will always signify luxury.”

www.siomorfevres.com

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OPEN FOR ENTRIES DEADLINE - 31 JANUARY Have you recently designed a hotel bar or hotel restaurant? Perhaps refurbished a ballroom or event space? Then you need to enter AHEAD Americas 2020.

Eligible projects need to be located in the Americas region and opened between November 2018 - December 2019 to apply.

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PETITS FOURS

Calif Bonna Inspired by the colours of the Mediterranean, the Calif collection from Turkish tableware manufacturer Bonna has been designed to give optimum balance between durability and lightness, marrying amicably with interior decors while bringing a new identity and authenticity to the table. The series forms part of the brand’s wider Envisio range, a family of products that take cues from the blending of technological trends and traditional design styles, helping chefs deliver vibrant food presentations.

www.bonna.com.tr

1.

2.

3.

4.

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1. Induction Chafing Dish WNK

2. Drift Robert Welch

3. Buffet Tina Frey

4. Revolution Steelite International

Compatible with burners, electric heaters and induction cookers, the Induction Chafing Dishes by Hong Kong-based silverware manufacturer WNK feature a stable and durable hinge design that allows the lid to be placed in different stationary positions to minimise heat loss.

The lid can also be removed easily for cleaning purposes, while an innovative water-return system built into the edge of the lid further prevents drips from falling onto the food, which can quickly ruin subtle flavours and textures. www.wnk-hk.com

Made from 18/10 stainless steel with a mirror finish, the Drift Coffee Pots by Robert Welch are classically proportioned with flowing shapes and handles.

Available in one- and two-litre capacities, the containers boast a non-drip pouring action and keep coffee above 70°C for 45 minutes. To complement the series, Robert Welch has also launched the Drift Canape stand, a miniaturised version of the Drift Afternoon Tea stand that presents distinctive shapes when viewed at different angles. www.robertwelch.com

Tina Frey’s Buffet collection consists of risers, serving boards and cake stands in different heights and sizes, providing chefs with maximum flexibility when looking to plate up their unique culinary creations. Inspired by the idea of modern simplicity, the individual pieces within the range can be easily disassembled for flat storage and transport when not in use, while the addition of a variety of stylish colour options ensures the buffetware can comfortably meet the aesthetic requirements of various dining settings. www.tf.design

Launched to celebrate the art of glazing, the Revolution range from Steelite International uses specially formulated reactive glazes that change in colour and intensity depending on their application.

They are also applied by hand using a revolving motion, meaning the path that the brush travels across each piece is evident in the fired result, making for a unique finish. On top of that, contrasting yet neutral colour tones of sandstone and granite blend together seamlessly to better showcase new culinary creations. www.steelite.com

PETITS FOURS

Saturn Vista Alegre Created by German designer Carsten Gollnick for Vista Alegre, the Saturn collection is inspired by traditional plates yet offers a strong sense of three-dimensionality thanks to its sculptural shape, rotational symmetry and elegantly rising sides. In developing the range, Gollnick continually challenged Vista Alegre to push the boundaries in the production of its porcelain, and the result – winner of the Tabletop category at German Design Awards 2019 – is certain to stimulate the creativity of chefs and elevate a broad array of gastronomic offerings.

www.hotelware.vistaalegre.com

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1.

2.

3.

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4.

1. Rocket Studio 1765

2. Professional Jura

3. Worldwide Kitchenware WMK Germany

4. Electric Lemon Lady and Butler

Designed by Amilios Grohmann in collaboration with Martin A. Koebke, the Rocket collection by Studio 1765 comprises wine and champagne coolers in a selection of finishes including copper, stainless steel and black. Combining cutting-edge design with functionality, practicality and style, the stackable coolers are available in floor-standing and tabletop versions with removable drip trays, enabling users to cater for a variety of different hospitality environments and interior decors. www.studio1765.com

Jura’s range of Professional coffee machines can serve between ten and 200 cups of coffee per day, including a selection of specialities from ristretto to cappuccino. The units come with innovative technology such as one-touch functionality, enabling users to make freshly ground coffee in minutes; Pulse Extraction Process, optimising extraction time and ensuring a delightful aroma; and bean hoppers, which boast holding capacities of between 500g and 1kg for extra preserving space. www.uk.jura.com

Taking its name from the abbreviation of Worldwide Manufacturing of Kitchenware, WMK offers a distinctive selection of products to cater for all aspects of the hospitality sector, from kitchenware, buffet equipment and tableware to bar equipment, food transport, machinery and cleaning items. With more than 45 years of experience in worldwide production and distribution, the brand designs and manufactures its collections in conformity with German standards of quality, based on exacting European regulations. www.wmk-global.com

Translating the architecture and interior design of Equinox Hotel at Hudson Yards in New York, Lady and Butler – the brainchild of Barcelona-born fashion designer Eli Caner, who runs the firm from the Big Apple – has created a series of sophisticated vestments for hospitality staffers at Electric Lemon, the property’s new seasonal American restaurant. The runway-worthy uniforms complement the creative direction of the 24th-floor terraced dining room, which is headed up by top restaurateur Stephen Starr. www.ladyandbutler.com

PETITS FOURS

Tense Ruby Fine2Dine Fine2Dine’s Tense Ruby collection features organic formed plates and bowls with uneven edges, which bring together a dark colour palette of ruby red and black tones for a handmade look, adding a whole new dimension to certain dishes. Carefully crafted in Portugal, the tableware is made from durable porcelain and fired at 1300°C to ensure zero water absorption, whilst a reactive glaze finish ensures every piece is utterly unique.

www.fine2dine.com

129

L’Econome by Starck Degrenne Paris Created by visionary designer Philippe Starck, the L’Econome by Starck collection from Degrenne Paris comprises stackable and modular bowls and plates along with cutlery sets such as the multifunctional Acolytes, which helps save space.

Combining practical crockery with a contemporary design and understated lines, on top of mixing enamelled and satin-like materials in a selection of pastel colours including yellow, pink, green, grey and white, the elegant range ensures that dishes stand out on the table. www.pro.degrenne.fr

130

PETITS FOURS

1.

2.

3.

4.

1. Coffee-To-Go Cups Dibbern

2. WMF Espresso WMF Coffee Machines

3. Aves Hepp

4. Presentation Stand Pordamsa

Supporting the drive towards reducing society’s reliance on single-use plastics, and in particular disposable cups that cannot be recycled due to their plastic coating, Dibbern’s environmentally friendly Coffee-To-Go Cups are made from high-quality fine bone china and feature BPA-free, non-toxic lids.

Manufactured in Germany, the cups offer a durable, sustainable yet premium solution for those on the go, with a touch of luxury added in the form of vegetable tanned leather sleeves. www.dibbern.de

WMF’s Espresso range offers all the quality of a traditional portafilter machine – with a classic look and sensory cues like hissing, steaming and knocking – while at the same time delivering the simplicity and consistency of a fully automatic model. Recommended for venues with an average daily requirement of 300 cups, the machine features integrated grinders, automatic tamping and Dynamic Coffee Assist technology, which combine to guarantee versatility, usability and all-round performance. www.wmf-coffeemachines.com

Inspired by the contours of a bird’s wings, the Aves collection by Hepp features a spoon with a distinctly shaped bowl, as well as a fork that stands out thanks to an unusual ratio of tines to handle and a material thickness of nine millimetres. This dimension has also been implemented in the smaller cutlery pieces, such as the espresso and lemonade spoons. Meanwhile, the wider Aves line comprises 19 pieces and is available in polished stainless steel as well as other finishes upon request. www.hepp.de

Spanish porcelain manufacturer Pordamsa has introduced a new golden matte Presentation Stand, which is offered in two sizes that hold three plates of either 12cm or 20cm in diameter. Developed to offer chefs a more sophisticated solution from which to present petit fours or desserts, the stands come in three different finishes for added variety and can be combined with the brand’s Diana, Nordica and Crater tableware collections, the latter – seen here – taking inspiration from volcanic rock formations. www.pordamsa.com

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Temptaste Tafelstern Tafelstern has expanded its Temptaste collection with the launch of Season, a series of plates characterised by an understated, concrete aesthetic. Decorated with patterns of leaves in either metallic copper or metallic gold, the tableware marries well with urban dining settings and modern country styles alike. It can also be combined with various terracotta items from Tafelstern’s existing Playground range, as well as the brand’s new industrial-style Delight cups and black clay Stella plates.

www.tafelstern.com

132

PETITS FOURS

1.

2.

3.

4.

1. NTE Dometic

2. LED Menu Tag Tiger

3. Commercial Juicer Sunkist Growers

4. Inverter Minibar Kleo

Dometic has upgraded two of its 20-litre class minibars with a new noiseless thermoelectric cooling unit (NTE). The models deliver significantly reduced electricity costs, consuming around three times less energy than absorption minibars of the same capacity. Users can choose between a solid door version with an A++ energy efficiency index or a glass door model with an A+ rating, with both featuring sensor-controlled LED interior lighting and a cut-out shelf for champagne bottles. www.dometic.com

Korean manufacturer Tiger has launched a new battery-operated LED Menu Tag, which can last a total of 30 hours in service following just six hours of charge.

Available in seven colour options to meet the needs of various dining environments, the tags allow operators to write and erase the day’s menu easily using a neon pen. The product joins Tiger’s growing portfolio of buffetware, which includes modular systems, carving stations and heating lamps, chafing dishes, trolleys and presentation stands. www.tigerhotel.co.kr

The Commercial Juicer from Sunkist Growers comes with a high-powered operator that can extract up to 20 gallons of juice per hour using pre-cut fruit.

Manufactured in the US, the heavy-duty 31-pound unit also features a unique metal oscillating strainer, allowing users to get the maximum juice out of each and every piece inserted. Meanwhile, the brand’s Pro Series Juicer, which boasts a smaller footprint at just 28cm tall and 20cm in diameter, is engineered to extract ten gallons of juice per hour. www.sunkistequipment.com

The result of two years’ research and development, Kleo’s Inverter Minibar by Kleo boasts A+++ energy consumption and low operating sound levels (between 26/29dBA), as well as high-quality inverter cooling technology (between +2C/+8C) and anti-icing thanks to auto defrosting.

Equipped with replaceable and renewable parts, the units are available in 35-, 45- or 60-litre capacities, offering a choice of solid or glass doors and a reversible door direction, with colour options including black and white. www.minibar.com.tr

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PETITS FOURS

Vector H Alto-Shaam Alto-Shaam has released a new multimedia campaign and promotional materials to support the launch of its Vector H series of multi-cook ovens. A video highlights the innovative technology and high-quality design features of the equipment, while marketing collateral includes brochures, product catalogues and sell sheets in multiple languages.

Both the video and collateral demonstrate how the compact and ventless countertop model is specifically designed for fast-food operations or any kitchen environment where space is at a premium. The campaign also focuses on AltoShaam’s most advanced control system yet, with easy to

134

use technology that is intentionally simple and requires little to no operator training. For busy dining environments, the multi-cook ovens are able to produce a large volume and variety of different foods, with each rotisserie featuring up to four independent chambers. On top of that, operators can control the temperature, fan speed and cooking time of the chambers, allowing them to cook numerous items simultaneously with no flavour transfer, while Structured Air Technology further delivers optimised, focused heat to help chefs achieve greater consistency and food quality.

www.alto-shaam.com

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Subscribers benefit from: • Previews of the most exciting projects breaking ground • Reviews of new hotels opening worldwide • In-depth interviews with leading hoteliers, interior designers and architects • Coverage of exhibitions and conferences for the hotel industry • Exclusive updates of Sleeper’s events including AHEAD – the global awards for hospitality experience and design – and Sleepover – the inventive event for hotel innovators For more information please contact: subscriptions@mondiale.co.uk

ADVERTISING INDEX ISSUE 17

Aerts NV

041

Perrier-Jouët

AHEAD

124

Pordamsa

016

Alto-Shaam

069

Robert Welch

139

Ambiente

061

Rona

002

Bonna

039

Siom

045

Camus

099

Sleeper

136 112

008 & 009

CGA

118

Starboard

Champagne Gosset

101

Steelite

Cognac Frapin

111

Stölzle

025

Degrenne Paris

012

Sunkist

105

Dibbern

087

Tafelstern

015

Dometic

077

The Menu Store

051

FHA

108

Tiger

035

Gemini 1765

043

To The Table - Europe

092

Ice Cool Ltd

079

To The Table - MEA

135

John Jenkins

005

Top Drawer

083

107

Vista Alegre

140

Jura

006 & 007

Kleo Mini Bar

095

WMF

027

Lady and Butler

057

WMF Coffee

063

LSA

036

WMK

067

010 & 011

WNK

055

Zieher

019

Magnifique Brands Nude

033

137

WASHING-UP

Not so Vanilla Sky

A digital sky within La Concha’s Fifty Eight club in San Juan brings the outdoors inside.

138

Some might say rooftop bars are too obvious

sending colourful patterns flowing across the

now, that their ubiquity has facilitated a fall from

space. Formed from hundreds of custom-made

grace roughly the same height as the buildings

light boxes, the scheme has been networked

they top. “Yes, that’s a nice rooftop bar you have

together with bespoke software that visualises

there,” guests will say. “And yes, I can indeed see

data through a mix of graphic design, algorithms

the sky tonight in all its glory – but what makes

and animation. During the day, it can be

you any different to that competing rooftop bar

programmed to create ambient patterns, whilst

across the way?”

sunset shades take over as darkness falls.

Maybe you implement a happy hour, drawing

After hours, the ceiling reacts to the live music

in the after-work crowd; maybe you commission

performances the club regularly hosts, linking

an artist to produce some Instagrammable

audio and visuals by serving up different levels

installations; or maybe you’re San Juan’s La

of intensity and pace.

Concha Resort and eschew the rooftop entirely whilst recreating the sky from digital cubes.

Whilst this novel approach could potentially encounter some resistance from rooftop purists,

In the depths of La Concha’s underused Fifty

Cactus has made sure to extend an olive branch to

Eight club, New York-based design firm Cactus

any doubters. Worry not, fresh-air enthusiasts;

has just unveiled Cubic Sky: a sculptural full-

the system can create enough drifting cloud

ceiling architectural installation capable of

visualisations to last your entire stay.

DESIGNED TO LAST A LIFETIME

For more information or samples contact us.

Email: hospitality@robertwelch.com Telephone: +44 (0) 1386 840880

robertwelch.com/hospitality

AF_AnuncioHotelware_gres_236x275.pdf

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