HOTEL FOOD & DRINK
ALLEGRA - LONDON • TOM KERRIDGE • ELECTRIC LEMON - NEW YORK
For the first time a line of glasses designed by somebody who uses them first-hand and expects a perfect performance. Maurizio Filippi - Best Italian Sommelier AIS 2016 - used all his expertise as a sommelier and restaurateur to create the soft and “human� lines of these wine glasses, without neglecting to take into account practical aspects that are important for potential buyers. Only six wine glasses and two water glasses to meet the needs of all professionals in the sector and of all wines produced in the world. Pure sensations translated into an elegant philosophy: this what you will find in the small booklet detailing his thinking and, most of all, the correct use of this natural line full of elegance and beauty. .
CONTENTS ISSUE 17 STARTERS
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037
© BWM Architekten / Severin Wurnig
046
Union 037 The Opposite House Beijing
II Palazzo Experimental
038
Li Long
040
Venice
Waldorf Astoria Ithaafushi Maldives
Sparrow 042 The Dalmar Fort Lauderdale
Salon Sacher © Sam A. Harris
© Owen Raggett
Hotel Sacher Vienna
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052
MAIN COURSES Allegra 046 The Stratford London
Electric Lemon Equinox Hotel New York
052
Cultureplex 058 Native Manchester
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Rubbish Cooks
070
Grand Resort Bad Ragaz Switzerland
University Arms Cambridge
© Jason Varney
Memories
003
CONTENTS ISSUE 17 020
SERVICE A Fresh Start
020
Ace Bartender
028
During an exclusive tour of his Marlow outposts, British chef Tom Kerridge talks humble beginnings, Michelin stars and expanding to Manchester.
Jeffrey Morgenthaler, the prolific drinks writer who manages two bars at Ace Hotel Portland, on why bartenders should never quit their day-jobs.
DINING In a Pickle
074
A growing number of chefs at London’s top hotels are turning to homemade pickles and ferments to help differentiate their cuisine.
Four Seasons Pop Down London 080 028
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The experiential series lands in Camden, showcasing the talents of 15 top chefs and bartenders from Four Seasons properties around the world.
Epicurean Experiences
084
Going Green
088
Combining a passion for gastronomy with thoughtful and holistic design solutions, Goddard Littlefair launches a dedicated new F&B agency. © Jeffrey Morgenthaler
As customers increasingly call on hotels to reduce their carbon footprints, suppliers are springing into action by launching a host of premium ecofriendly products.
SIPPING
REGULARS Entrée 013
Spotlight 122
Appetisers 017
Petits Fours
Signatures
Washing-Up 138
093
Cocktails 109 Drinks 113 Events 119
004
125
Gin, Tonic and a Room for Two
096
Raise Your Glass
102
Hotels around the world are succesfully tapping into their guests’ growing interest in discovering high-quality gins.
Properties are increasingly looking to procure glassware that is both stylish and practical, and premium brands are responding accordingly.
PR
EM
IUM
PERFECT MI XE
RS
PREMIUM TONIC W AT E R
DON’T PRETEND TO BE ORIGINAL,
BE THE ORIGINAL www.theoriginaltonic.com
Refinement and precision for your guest dining experience L COUTURE COLLECTION made in limoges
Visit us at Ambiente - Hall 4.1 - Stand B51 / www.pro.degrenne.fr
ENTRÉE
© Sam A. Harris ON THE COVER Terrine served with fresh bread at Allegra, The Stratford, London
Reconnecting with Mother Nature
H
otels have not always enjoyed the closest of
Handelsmann; and in Parker’s Tavern at University Arms in
relationships with the natural world. For decades,
Cambridge, the team has launched a monthly supper club
many properties prided themselves on being able to
designed to highlight the issue of food waste. We also learn
offer the same international standards to guests and locals
how forward-thinking suppliers are rising to the challenge
alike, regardless of where on the planet they happened to
by, for instance, developing eco-friendly ranges made from
be located. It was an attitude frequently echoed in their
recycled glass or natural materials.
F&B venues, where restaurants in Singapore or Sydney, for
Here at Sleeper Media, as our sister magazine reaches
example, were expected to produce a crunchy Caesar salad to
its 20th anniversary, we have been looking at ways we can
the exact same specifications as one in San Francisco; rarely
reduce our own impact on the environment. As you may have
if ever did anybody stress the potential benefits of embracing
noticed, this latest issue is being delivered in more sustainable
local ingredients and seasonal produce, or talk about the need
packaging – compostable potato starch for our mailing-list
to reduce food miles and eliminate kitchen waste.
recipients, and a more robust recyclable cardboard package
Fast-forward to 2019, however, and a new generation of
for our paying subscribers.
hotel F&B professionals has successfully ushered in a revolution
This ‘Sleeper 2020’ initiative will also see a range of
of sorts, one whose mantra is all about encouraging guests
improvements to our digital offer in the coming months,
to engage with their immediate surroundings and celebrate
which I will be overseeing in my new role as Online Editor
nature’s bounty. A perfect case in point is acclaimed chef
of Sleeper Media, with a new team member, Jenna Campbell,
Tom Kerridge, who tells us how he has managed to elevate
taking on the role of Assistant Editor. I look forward to working
traditional British classics into Michelin-star territory by
closely together with Managing Editor Catherine Martin, our
working hand in hand with local suppliers – and incorporating
Consulting Editor Heleri Rande, and the rest of the team to
produce from his own butchers – at luxurious properties
ensure Supper continues to serve the hotel food and drink
such as Corinthia Hotel in London and the forthcoming Stock
community both in print and online.
Exchange in Manchester. Indeed, this issue of Supper is full of similarly inspiring stories. At Electric Lemon, the main restaurant space within the inaugural Equinox Hotel in New York, Executive Chef Kyle Knall is building relationships with farmers at the top of their game, ensuring he gets unfettered access to the finest ingredients around; over at the Allegra restaurant at The Stratford in London, the kitchen makes liberal use of ingredients grown on a nearby farm owned by developer Harry
Richard Frost • Online Editor
013
THE BRIGADE
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Assistant Editor Jenna Campbell
Brand Director Amy Wright
Finance Director Amanda Giles
Assistant Editor Kristofer Thomas
Events Manager Lela Rose Keighley
Group Financial Controller Sarah Healey
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APPETISERS
T
he subject of tipping within the hospitality
people interpret this in different ways, which
sector has long been a source of contention,
only exacerbates confusion,” says Peter Davies,
rooted in ambiguity and cultural inertia.
Client Service Partner and Managing Director of
However, in recent years those lobbying
WMT Troncmaster Services. Following this, and
for reform have made significant headway,
more than three years after the UK Government
attracting attention from industry leaders and
published the findings of its consultation into
legislators keen to help both frontline staff and
tips, gratuities, cover and service charges, it was
management, while also allaying the concerns of
announced that a bill would be brought forward
members of the public for whom the etiquette of
requiring employers to pass on all tips to workers
leaving gratuities remains unclear.
in full and on a fair and transparent basis.
The custom can be traced back to 17th century
Meanwhile, in the US, Union Square Hospitality
Britain, with the word ‘tip’ thought to be an
Group’s highly regarded CEO, Danny Meyers,
acronym for ‘To Insure Promptitude’. While the
famously eliminated tipping altogether across
practice differs between cultures – a gratuity
his restaurants in 2015, arguing that the practice
may well be automatically added to a bill when
was unfair towards kitchen workers. Lauded in
dining in the US, whereas this can be frowned
some quarters as the catalyst that would save the
Tipping Point Leading figures from across the hospitality industry are now taking practical steps to improve how tips are distributed between workers.
upon in Japan and China – for many, the habit
hospitality industry, no less, he later admitted
is deeply ingrained. This is certainly true in the
in 2018 that the move resulted in 30% to 40% of
UK, where businesses follow a voluntary tipping
his “legacy front-of-the-house staff” quitting.
system which does not require them to pass service charges over to staff.
Of course, the switch to a cashless society seen in many countries around the world has also had
Research by consultancy firm EP Business
a major impact on tipping. In response, Alex
in Hospitality has highlighted the scale of the
Moore, co-founder of fast-growing restaurant
problem; in its study, only 31% of hospitality
chain Rosa’s Thai, and James Brown, Retail
companies surveyed reported sharing 100% of
Director of influential craft brewer Brewdog,
gratuities with staff, compounding the sentiment
have developed Tipjar - a cashless, peer-to-peer
that there is an alarming lack of consistency
app that allows customers to transfer a gratuity
across the industry.
directly to staff members.
In a bid to end the confusion, EP and tip
Improvements like these may perhaps go some
distribution agent WMT Troncmaster Services
way towards tackling the confusion around the
recently launched a new industry body to
subject by empowering customers and ensuring
monitor and accredit best practice, with Jon
hotels know exactly what is expected. After
Dawson from Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group
several false starts down the years, it seems the
and Gioele Camarlinghi of the European Hotel
hospitality industry may now be ready to work
Managers Association included among the
together to ensure tips are always distributed
impressive line-up of board members. “The
fairly and transparently.
wording used by hospitality firms in relation to service charges has always been vague and
017
I
t used to be the case that racking up loyalty points
having a masterclass with the chef himself, as
from nights spent at hotels would only earn
well as doing a cocktail workshop, and enjoying
guests a small discount on a future booking or,
tasting menus with wine pairings at Michelin-
if they were lucky, a complimentary extra night’s
starred duo M.B. and Kabuki.
stay. By contrast, Marriott International’s new
Alternatively, members might be tempted
travel programme offers a range of incentives
to bid for a masterclass with Michel Roth, the
that are anything but ordinary. Marriott Bonvoy,
renowned French chef at Hotel President Wilson
which has replaced Marriott Rewards, The Ritz-
in Geneva. This is to be followed up by a workshop
Carlton Rewards and Starwood Preferred Guest,
at chocolatier La Bonbonnière, a tasting menu at
gives users access to perks like welcome gifts,
the Arabesque Lebanese restaurant and an eight-
free internet and late check-outs. Meanwhile,
course dinner at Bayview, Roth’s elegant temple
the Marriott Bonvoy Moments scheme goes even
to haute cuisine.
further, enabling members to bid on exclusive
Francis Peniego, Carles Abellán, Paco Pérez
money-can’t-buy experiences, including a series
and Sven Everfeld are also due to take part before
of culinary adventures with some of the biggest
the end of the year – an impressive rollcall of
names in the industry.
talent if ever there was one. Incidentally, the
Magic Moments Marriott International’s new loyalty scheme offers exclusive culinary experiences with the world’s finest chefs.
To provide a taste of things to come, Marriott
highest winning bid to date was for a three-
International recently revealed that seven top
night stay at a private estate in Grand Cayman, a
chefs had agreed to take part in the scheme before
boat excursion, and a masterclass with Michelin-
the end of 2019, with many more expected to
starred Chef Bouley, which sold for a mammoth
follow in 2020. Each experience features a multi-
2 million points.
course dinner at a Michelin-starred restaurant; a
It is still early days, of course, but what already
chef masterclass or meet and greet; a minimum
seems clear is that Marriott Bonvoy Moments
two-night stay for two at properties such as
has tapped into a wider industry trend in which
Ritz-Carlton, St. Regis and W Hotels; and special
travellers are becoming less motivated by
local experiences curated by culinary experts.
monetary incentives and increasingly tempted by
Kick-starting proceedings is a cooking
experiential rewards instead. With its guests now
masterclass with acclaimed chef Miguel Navarro
seeking out more unique experiences, Marriott
at The St. Regis Mardavall Mallorca Resort,
International has created an industry-leading
followed by lunch with wine pairings, a market
scheme worthy of its global profile, whilst
tour, a private visit of the Treuer olive oil cellar
making full use of its hotels, local knowledge
and a full tasting dinner experience at award-
and F&B contacts. Going forward, other hotels
winning restaurant Es Fum. Another package,
will obviously need to offer a lot more than just
this time at The Ritz-Carlton, Abama in Tenerife,
discount codes and cut-price deals in order to
is built around the legendary Martín Berasategui,
retain the loyalty of their customers.
a man who has done more than most to turn Basque cuisine into the envy of the world in recent years; participants can look forward to
018
VISION
visit us: Hospitality Doha, QT 12.11. - 14.11.2019 booth B-12 (with Royal Hospitality)
W W W . Z I E H E R . C O M
A Fresh Start During an exclusive tour of his Marlow outposts, British chef Tom Kerridge talks humble beginnings, Michelin stars and expanding to Manchester. Words: Ben Thomas
“I
t was an accident! I went into a kitchen as
being a chef is about much more than just
an 18-year-old needing a job and just started
cooking. It’s having an understanding of people
washing up,” says chef Tom Kerridge, sipping
management, costs and control, but more
a freshly made brew as he welcomes us to
importantly your guest. You learn more about
The Shed, his dedicated private dining room
those aspects by being in a place for longer.”
in the centre of Marlow, Buckinghamshire.
To revive The Hand & Flowers, Kerridge
“It was the space, the people and the industry
enlisted the help of two other chefs in the
that I fell in love with straight away. Chefs are
kitchen, his wife Beth (who would be in charge of
like naughty boys – I was with people who I
running front of house), his best friend (behind
knew from school, except there was fire and
the bar) and one part-time waitress. A small
knives, so it was cool.”
team, perhaps, but that did not get in the way of
Since his first stint behind the stoves as
his ambitions for the project: “From the outset,
Commis Chef at Calcot Manor in Gloucestershire,
we aimed to cook great food at an accessible
Kerridge has enjoyed an impressive career,
price point that meant that it was comfortable
working with the likes of Stephen Bull and
for people to come in,” he reflects. And come
Gary Rhodes, and producing a number of TV
they did. The venue quickly gained a reputation
programmes and cookbooks. Inspired to take on
for its bold yet unpretentious dishes, receiving
the culinary world by fellow British chef Marco
a Michelin star just ten months after opening
Pierre White, who he claims blew him away by
its doors, before going on to gain a second in
“changing the way the industry was perceived
2011 – the only pub in the UK operating at this
and making it a cool space to be in”, the
level. “I wanted to take away the idea that
Wiltshire-born cook learnt his craft at Odette’s
Michelin stars were all about French waiters and
in Primrose Hill, Monsieur Max in Hampton Hill
tablecloths, and create somewhere warm and
and Adlards in Norwich, before deciding it was
comfortable,” Kerridge adds. “For many of our
time to open his own place in 2005, launching
guests, it’s their first experience of a Michelin-
The Hand & Flowers in Marlow with the help of
starred restaurant, so it takes away people’s fear
his wife Beth.
because they understand pubs. That warmth of
“I didn’t move around too much as a chef,”
hospitality is key to everything that we do.”
he continues. “For me, a year is never long
With Head Chef Jamie May now running
enough, you can learn recipes and a dish, but
the kitchen day-to-day and 65 employees on
SERVICE
SERVICE
The Hand & Flowers offers bold yet unpretentious dishes such as a classic pork pie with pickled onion
the payroll, as well as 11 individually designed bedrooms across three cottages in the centre of Marlow, The Hand & Flowers’ reputation continues to grow and grow. And he has even managed to repeat the trick, launching The Coach in 2014 – a relaxed pub where a long steel-topped bar and comfortable leather
“Every project we’ve ever done has always had a foundation, a history and a heritage.”
the building it occupies, which witnessed the ups and downs of bull and bear markets in its previous life. Headed up by Executive Chef Dan Scott, the space is expected to blur the boundaries between elegance and informality with a menu reflecting Kerridge’s distinctive culinary ethos.
seating overlook a large open kitchen to create
Divided into three stages: ‘First’, ‘Second’
greater interaction between chef and guest. Led
and ‘Third’, with the team recommending
by Tom De Keyser, the pub became an instant
four to five plates per person, the restaurant
success for its menu of refined dishes and
will serve favourites such as mushroom risotto
refreshments – signatures include The Coach
Claude Bosi; The Coach burger with smoked
burger with pulled pork and dill pickle; smoked
brisket and dill pickle; and chicken Kiev with
haddock and Ogleshield tart with Autumn
cauliflower cheese, together with a mouth-
truffle; and The Coach profiteroles with soured
watering selection of signatures like smoked
vanilla cream – taking home three AA Rosettes
chicken and ham hock terrine with piccalilli;
within its first year of trading, before following
crispy pig’s head with celeriac rémoulade and
in the footsteps of The Hand & Flowers by
spiced date sauce; and hot chocolate tart with
gaining a Michelin star in 2017.
hazelnut ice cream.
In the same year, Kerridge further expanded
Meanwhile, those looking for an after-work
his Marlow portfolio with the launch of The
cocktail can tip their hat to Antony Peart, Bar
Butcher’s Tap, which operates as a butchers and
Manager at The Hand & Flowers, who has designed a drinks menu honouring British
bar during the day, and offers a simple meatled menu alongside beers, wines and spirits
And it’s these sorts of flourishes that first
distilleries and Manchester’s local brewing
come evening. Here, he partners with friend
caught the eye of Gary Neville, the former
scene – though Kerridge insists that Marlow-
Andy Cook, who has been providing The Hand
professional footballer-turned-hotelier, who
based brands will also be present: “We want to
& Flowers with first-class produce for nearly
spotted the opportunity to collaborate with
bring a part of that Marlow soul to Manchester
ten years.
Kerridge when planning a new boutique hotel
with Rebellion Brewery, but also use as many of
Next up, Kerridge tasked Nick Beardshaw – a
in Manchester. Fast-forward a matter of
the small craft brewers in the city as possible,”
colleague for many years, initially as Sous Chef at
months and the chef himself was stood in the
he says. “For me, real ale is as exciting as
The Hand & Flowers, and more recently as Head
city’s former Stock Exchange building, awe-
wine. The people who brew ale have the same
Chef of The Coach – with overseeing the menu
inspired by its potential: “We walked into the
attitude towards brewing as winemakers,
at Kerridge’s Bar & Grill, which became his first
building and immediately fell in love with the
they’re all artisanal. So, we’ll be looking at
London outpost when it opened in September
space,” he admits. “Every project we’ve ever
every opportunity for small British producers
2018. Located in the heart of Corinthia Hotel,
done has always had a foundation, a history
that do great stuff to be showcased.”
the restaurant adopts the same signature style
and a heritage, whether that be pubs, people,
Locally inspired details will also be evident
that brought the chef a wealth of success in
suppliers, producers. When you walk into the
in a refined colour palette taking its cue from
Marlow, serving refined takes on classic British
Stock Exchange, it’s exactly the same.”
Manchester’s iconic worker bee, complementing the
restaurant’s
striking
Edwardian
dishes, albeit within a grand, high-ceilinged
Not long after, it was announced that
space seating 90 covers. Taking cues from the
Kerridge would partner with Neville, former
architecture, elegant green curved banquettes
menu at The Coach, Kerridge’s Bar & Grill uses
teammate Ryan Giggs and hotelier Winston
and comfortable leather armchairs. Plus, the
a striking rotisserie to roast large joints of meat,
Zahra to operate the F&B spaces within the 40-
menus and beer mats will be illustrated with
fish and root vegetables in front of diners, while
key property, which is set to open in November
hand-drawn sketches of the people who make
a number of the main restaurant’s walls feature
as a Relais & Châteaux member. Suitably placed
it unique – suppliers, chefs, servers and punters
fridges showcasing hanging meat supplied by
within the hotel’s grand domed dining room –
– all of whom are a big part of the overall
The Butcher’s Tap, as well as personal touches
previously used as the trading floor of the Stock
story. Although Kerridge is quick to quash any
in the form of curated artworks from his wife.
Exchange – The Bull & Bear lends its name to
suggestion of running themed dishes or events.
023
SERVICE
“The Manchester food scene is incredible and growing, it’s probably one of the most talkedabout in the UK right now because of its vibrancy and warmth.”
Kerridge’s Bar & Grill serves traditional British dishes within a grand, high-ceilinged space accommodating 90 covers
“You can rest assured that there will be no Hacienda, Happy Mondays or Stone Roses
scale producers, as well as the people we’ve already built relationships with.”
themes, it’s just going to be more of what we
Such relationships within the industry stood
do best,” he laughs. “We’ve tried really hard to
Kerridge in good stead when first developing his
make sure we can provide exceptionally good
vision for The Bull & Bear; the chef consulted
food at an accessible price point. We’re not
established names like Gary Usher, Will Beckett
aiming at being Manchester’s most expensive
and Simon Rimmer before deciding to make the
restaurant, but also not the cheapest. It’s going
move up north, allowing him to paint a picture
to be the right price for the space within that
of the kind of venue Manchester’s city dwellers
beautiful hotel.”
have been craving. “There were absolutely zero
On top of operating The Bull & Bear,
negatives at all from Gary, Will or Simon,” he
Kerridge’s team will also oversee The Bank,
reveals, praising the trio’s continued work in
offering private dining experiences for up to
and around the city. “The Manchester food
14 guests, and The Vault, catering for private
scene is incredible and growing, it’s probably
events of up to 120 covers. The former will host
one of the most talked-about in the UK right
culinary masterclasses and boast its own wine
now because of its vibrancy and warmth. That
cellar, which he believes will set the hotel apart
being said, its guests are far more interested in
in the city: “The wine list is going to be very
whether new restaurants are actually enjoyable
diverse and eclectic,” he says. “Charles and
places to eat.”
Oliver, my main sommeliers at Kerridge’s, along
Given his record with the Michelin Guide in
with Gavin who works at The Hand & Flowers,
the past, might Kerridge be hoping to replicate
were all involved in putting together the list for
the success of Mana – which has just secured
Manchester, which will feature new and small-
Manchester its first Michelin star in more
© Kensington Leverne
024
SERVICE
“Irrespective of where you are in the country, hospitality is all about providing value for money, working hard and being nice.”
The menu at The Bull & Bear includes signatures like crispy pig’s head with celeriac rémoulade and spiced date sauce
026
than 40 years – by adding yet another star
and restaurants – he admits in the same breath
to his collection? Actually, no. Instead, the
that it is hard to ignore the city’s flourishing
chef explains that he is more worried about
F&B sector, perhaps evident in his recently
portraying the former Stock Exchange in the
announced collaboration with boyhood club
best possible light, as well as developing his
Manchester United to take over Old Trafford’s
staff, and providing diners with a memorable
food offering on matchdays: “Ten years ago,
experience: “Simple things in hospitality
not just Manchester but the whole of the
are sometimes forgotten,” he muses, before
country thought somewhere was only good if
assuring us that in his eyes every guest is equally
it was featured in the Michelin guidebooks,”
important. “Irrespective of where you are in the
he reflects. “But over the last ten years, the
country, hospitality is all about providing value
understanding of what makes great food has
for money, working hard and being nice. It’s not
completely changed. Great food is about the
about the ego of the chef or the menu, it’s about
produce being looked after and cooked properly.
the guest. The guidebook writes the guidebook
That softening of the British food scene, making
for the guest to read, not the chef.”
sure it’s seen as an exciting place, means that the
The customer is king, as they say, and while
market in cities like Manchester, Nottingham,
Kerridge insists he isn’t looking to build a
Liverpool or Bristol is bubbling away, and isn’t
culinary empire – claiming that Manchester
just led by country-house hotels – there’s so
will be his final venture into the realm of pubs
much more to it.”
The perfect finish
WMF Professional | wmf-professional.com
Š Jeffrey Morgenthaler
SERVICE
Ace Bartender Jeffrey Morgenthaler, the prolific drinks writer who manages two bars at Ace Hotel Portland, discusses why bartenders should never quit their day-jobs. Words: Richard Frost • Photography: © Dylan + Jeni (unless otherwise stated)
W
hen a new cocktail bar
cocktail-making since 2004, and is speaking to
first hits upon a winning
us shortly before delivering a headline-grabbing
formula – securing a
presentation during London drinks industry
loyal following, garnering
conference P(our) Symposium looking at how
industry
the business has changed since the ‘90s.
acclaim
and
winning awards – it won’t
“I’ve been working full-time behind the bar for
be long before the offers start flooding in. The
23 years, 40 hours a week,” says Morgenthaler,
head barman may be invited to do guest slots
as we catch up with him backstage. “There’s
elsewhere, judge competitions, write books,
this idea that it’s impossible to accomplish
speak in public, work as a brand ambassador,
great things in the industry unless you quit
consult on other openings or get involved
bartending, and I’m here to say that’s not
in a million and one other projects. At some
true.” It’s clearly a subject close to his heart;
point, they might even reach the stage where
throughout our conversation, he comes across
they seriously consider quitting the day-job
as naturally opinionated – with strong and
altogether, leaving behind the bar that helped
entertaining views on every topic under the
make their name in order to grasp all of these
sun – and sure enough there is not a moment’s
exciting opportunities with both hands.
hesitation when we ask what he’d say to those
Jeffrey Morgenthaler, however, is on a one-
looking to enjoy a successful career in the drinks
man mission to persuade the next generation of
industry: “If you really want to rise to the top,
talent to resist that temptation. The influential
not just gain a bunch of meaningless Facebook
48-year-old knows what he’s talking about too:
likes or whatever, my advice would be don’t quit
not only is he Bar Manager of highly regarded
your bartending job.”
duo Clyde Common and Pépé Le Moko at Ace
Morgenthaler, who grew up in Monterey,
Hotel Portland, he has also been writing about
California, landed his first role behind the bar
in 1996. The job in question involved pouring
and decided to drop everything else to focus
second half of the 20th century instead – pours
pints at a rundown neighbourhood tavern in the
on it – or, as he once memorably wrote, “lord
like Long Island Iced Tea and Blue Hawaii. “I
city of Eugene, Oregon, where he was studying
knows I’m here because I’m running away from
wasn’t interested in doing Prohibition-era,
for a degree in interior architecture, and the
a career in architecture”.
speakeasy cocktails,” he explains matter of
scale of his ambition back then was limited
It was a risky move, undoubtedly, but the
factly. “I just find them extremely boring. And it
to just making enough money to support his
decision to keep doing what he loved paid off
was 2014, that ship had sailed five years prior.”
studies, and hopefully getting to know some
handsomely when he was offered the chance
Today, Morgenthaler leads a team of nine
members of the opposite sex. “I thought it’d
to work at an up-and-coming restaurant in
bartenders across Clyde Common and Pépé Le
be cool, I thought it’d be a way to meet women,”
Ace Hotel Portland, one of Oregon’s coolest
Moko, and he also has a slew of personal awards
he says ruefully. “But no women came to this
addresses. Excited by the prospect of being
under his belt, including being named both
bar, it was mostly just hard-drinking men.”
able to reach a much wider audience than
American Bartender of the Year and Best Cocktail
Undeterred, he stayed there for four years, before
was possible in Eugene, he duly accepted the
and Spirits Writer at the Spirited Awards in 2016.
eventually leaving to tend bars everywhere
challenge and joined Clyde Common, a seasonally
This impressive double win neatly encapsulates
from nondescript pool halls and nightclubs to
inspired establishment owned separately from
the twin tracks that he has built his career on,
upmarket lounges and restaurants. “For me,
the hotel, in 2009. Here, he mixes drinks like
for unusually among mixologists he seems
there’s never been a big difference between
Strawberry-Aperol Spritz (Aperol, strawberry,
every bit as comfortable writing about cocktails
pulling pints and making high-end cocktails,”
cava and water) and Dagobah System (rye
as making them. Down the years, he has penned
he reflects. Slowly, he came to the conclusion
whiskey, Fernet-Branca, lime and house-
engaging and informative articles for countless
that bartending was his true passion in life,
made ginger beer) designed to complement,
publications – including as a regular columnist
rather than overshadow, the dishes coming out
at Playboy and Food Republic – and he has
of the bustling open kitchen – “the cocktails
authored two books. The Bar Book: Elements of
are meant to be easy to drink, sessionable,
Cocktail Technique teaches enthusiasts how to
interesting certainly, but not too fussy,” he
master essential skills like juicing, carbonating,
says. That approach seems to be working
shaking, chilling and garnishing, while Drinking
too, with the venue having been nominated
Distilled: A User’s Manual instructs amateurs on
in the ‘Outstanding Bar Program’ category of
how to order cocktails, share a beverage with
the James Beard Awards on no fewer than six
the boss and successfully navigate airport bars
occasions, and being crowned Best American
in typically wry fashion.
“There’s this idea that it’s impossible to accomplish great things in the industry unless you quit bartending, and I’m here to say that’s not true.” 030
Hotel Bar and Best American Restaurant Bar at
However, it’s the enormously well-read
the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards in 2014
blog on his eponymous website for which
and 2018 respectively.
Morgenthaler is arguably best known; he has
In 2014, Morgenthaler also oversaw the launch
been dispensing a constant stream of how-to
of Pépé Le Moko, a 36-seat basement bar jointly
guides, tips and tricks online for the last 15 years,
owned by the hotel and the team behind Clyde
and in the process helped inspire countless
Common. Its coved ceiling, distressed concrete
bartenders around the world. Whenever he
walls (decorated with risqué vintage polaroids)
perfects a particular cocktail in Clyde Common
and moody lighting create a decidedly intimate,
or Pépé Le Moko, you can be sure that a post
retro atmosphere, while the drinks offering is
revealing the secrets behind his success won’t
“more high-end cocktails, with an emphasis
be far behind.
on preparation”. Interestingly, he reveals the
On the blog, for instance, you’ll find out
original concept for the proposed venue was to
how to recreate one of his signature serves,
serve Prohibition-era speakeasy cocktails from
the Amaretto Sour. After nonchalantly assuring
the ‘20s and ‘30s, but that he pushed back and
readers that “I make the best Amaretto Sour
successfully lobbied for the venue to offer a
you’ve ever had in your life”, he then proceeds
throwback programme of beverages from the
to explain what he does differently – namely,
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032
reducing the sweetness, adding cask-proof
to see whether he could create something
bourbon, and using an immersion blender
tailored towards American palates. When that
– before publishing the recipe in full. It’s a
first batch of Barrel-Aged Manhattans – “a
similar story for his other pride and joy, the
soft blend of oak, wine, caramel and char”, as
Grasshopper, a tribute to the blended ice cream
he put it at the time – sold out in a matter of
version of the classic popular in Wisconsin. The
days, he decided to adapt the same technique to
one served in Pépé Le Moko has been elevated
other classics like the Negroni and the Trident;
with a little Fernet-Branca and local sea salt, he
pleased with the results, he immediately posted
explains, and promptly shares a video showing
his findings online, and duly spawned a tidal
how readers can achieve the exact same results.
wave of copycats from San Francisco and New
Another post from 2010 was widely credited
York to London and Singapore. Today, a full
with starting the global craze for barrel-aged
nine years later, customers can still enjoy
cocktails. Inspired by a trip to see master
a barrel-aged cocktail or two over at Clyde
mixologist Tony Conigliaro at The Bar With No
Common, back where it all began.
Name at 69 Colebrooke Row in London, where
With Morgenthaler, you get the sense that
he saw Manhattans being aged in glass vessels,
being open and transparent with his readers is
Morgenthaler began to experiment with pouring
completely non-negotiable, and he is motivated
large volumes of cocktails into used oak barrels
more by the thought of contributing to the
“For me, there’s never been a big difference between pulling pints and making high-end cocktails.”
SERVICE
034
industry and inspiring others than achieving
those who insist on delivering long-winded
in the industry; rest assured, he certainly won’t
fame or fortune. There aren’t many practising
rants and misinformed sermons about their
be quitting anytime soon.
bartenders who can lay claim to having
latest drinks discovery – everything from
“I want to write more, I want to contribute
worked continuously behind the bar for more
pumpkin pale ales to bourbon bucket lists –
more, and I want to stay behind the bar,” he
than two decades either, and Morgenthaler is
to anyone who will listen. “I think there’s a
declares with gusto. “For me to give up tending
acutely aware that the drinks business now is
not-so-fine line between spirit knowledge and
the bar to fly around the world talking about
completely different to when he started out.
spirit fetishisation,” he asserts. “I find spirit
one kind of gin wouldn’t make any sense.”
“It’s funny to see how the industry has changed
knowledge important. I find the kind of guest
So being a brand ambassador doesn’t appeal
so much, and how it continues to evolve,” he
that wants to grill me on how much I know
then? “Look, I’ve absolutely no desire to spend
admits. “I remember when it was all about how
about gin before they feel confident ordering a
my life in airports,” he jokes. Despite having
many times distilled your vodka was, then how
little disturbing.”
spent the last 23 years pursuing his passion,
old the single-malt whisky was, then how many
However, this is not to say that Morgenthaler
managing top bars and penning innumerable
drinks the bartender had memorised. It’s always
feels jaded or disillusioned with his chosen
articles, Morgenthaler clearly believes he still
changing.” Those wanting to enjoy a successful
career – nothing could be further from the truth.
has plenty left to give. The palpable respect that
career behind the bar must, he believes, prepare
At the P(our) Symposium, he’s the life and soul
he inspires across the board speaks volumes too,
themselves for this reality, and be ready to
of the party, swapping wise-cracks with his
and you can’t help but sense that now he has
respond swiftly to whatever surprises the future
peers as they pass through the backstage area,
set his sights on convincing fellow bartenders to
may hold.
usually culminating in a roar of laughter as
follow his lead and stay behind the bar, there’ll
More recently, the bartender has also
another punchline finds its target. He’s clearly
be plenty of acolytes around the world ready to
seen first-hand the emergence of Instagram
someone who loves this business, and is living
heed the call.
influencers (Morgenthaler is not a fan), and
proof that it’s possible to both work full-time
what he derisively terms ‘spirit fetishists’,
behind the bar and rack up other achievements
The soul of stylish vintage combined with old-world charm. www.tigerhotel.co.kr
C R E AT I V E D E S I G N L U X U RY H O S P I TA L I T Y horeca.lsa-international.com
Supper Magazine-October FINAL.indd 1
15/10/2019 10:23
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Union The Opposite House BEIJING
Words: Donna Salek Photography: © Owen Raggett
IN A BITE Covers: 80 Owner: Swire Hotels Operator: The Opposite House Architecture: Kengo Kuma Interior Design: AvroKO F&B Manager: Sunny Su Head Sommelier: Ashley Gao Dinnerware: LSA Cutlery: Robert Welch Glassware: Zwiesel, Riedel www.theoppositehouse.com
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esigned with the whimsical sensibility of
experiment with structure, form and material
an artist’s studio, Union exudes elegance
– all key characteristics in both the early age of
and comfort, welcoming visitors to live,
Modernism and Rie’s pottery.
work and socialise in this sophisticated space
Seeking to create a sense of wonder and
at The Opposite House in Beijing. The Bangkok
discovery through its design, the venue
branch of New York-based design firm AvroKO
cleverly draws in guests with intriguing copper
oversaw the interiors on the project; it has
architectural frames and metal mesh sheets
created a bar with an effortless social flow,
behind the bar, which showcase a spicery wall
inspired by the beautiful and versatile studio
and a host of interesting artworks, sculptures
of celebrated 20th-century potter Lucy Rie, the
and objects. A drinks trolley and DJ booth
craftswoman whose brightly coloured footed
further animate the space, whilst the tabletop is
bowls and flared lip vases were central to the
enhanced by the presence of high-profile luxury
Modernist movement.
brands like LSA and Robert Welch.
In a similar vein, Union aims to be both
Every bit as fluid and extensive as the design,
fluid and adaptable, responding to the needs of
the drinks offering features a constantly evolving
guests across a variety of different situations.
wine list made up of 60 bins, all of which are
This approach is helped by the inclusion of a
available by the glass, as well as a diverse range
linear bar and central communal table, which
of cocktails. Among the notable serves are the
encourage visitors to interact throughout the
Genghis Khan Martini – made with French
day, whilst metal screens ensure the various
gin, Mongolian milk wine, dry vermouth,
social spaces and semi-private areas feel
elderflower, coconut and sea salt – and non-
distinct. And the central lighting features
alcoholic creations like Spring Breeze, a drink
create beacons at the heart of the space, using
inspired by eastern Chinese flavours crafted from
two-tone blown glass and geometric shapes to
pear, vanilla, coconut, citric acid and sea salt.
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Il Palazzo Experimental VENICE
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ocated slightly off Venice’s main tourist trail
comprises Experimental Cocktail Club signature
in the tranquil Dorsoduro neighbourhood,
serves as well as a selection based on Italian
Il Palazzo Experimental is the new 32-room
beverages such as Luxardo Maraschino, and
boutique hotel by French hospitality company
local amaros, grappas and vermouths – a
Experimental Group.
number of which can be found in miniature in
The property’s bar sits within its RenaissanceWords: Vicky Ilankovan Photography: © Karel Balas
IN A BITE Covers: 70 (restaurant), 20 (bar) Owner-Operator: Experimental Group Architecture: Alessandro Pagnacco Interior Design: Dorothee Meilichzon, Cristina Celestino F&B Consultant: Italian Supper Club Head Chef: Attilio Franzoi F&B Manager: Guillaume Pinaut Head Bartender: Marta Barbaglia www.palazzoexperimental.com
038
the guestroom fridges.
era façade, overlooking the Canal Della Guidecca.
Designed by Dorothée Meilichzon, Ristorante
Designer Cristina Celestino’s contemporary take
Adriatica sits on the opposite side of the hotel’s
on the ornate interiors that Venice is famed for
reception and is as vast as the other F&B venue
combines time-honoured crafts with modern
is intimate. A small bar serves wines, spritzes
aesthetics in a manner inspired by Carlo Scarpa.
and aperitivi before guests are ushered through
The glass frontage evokes serliana archways,
to the dining area, which looks out onto an open
glitzy half-crescent mirrors recall windows in
kitchen, complete with wraparound counter.
neighbouring palazzos, and striking pink walls
Meanwhile, marble plinths and gothique fleuri
are offset by plush teal, silver and brass carpets,
windows frame extravagant interiors. Deeply
whilst a polyphony of marble is met with
veined marble tables, wave-shaped striped
delicate pearl pendant lighting and nods at the
banquettes, terrazzo scarpa flooring, and a
city’s colourfully striped pali da casada poles.
clashing palette of salmon pink, white, bordeaux
On closing the mirrored door to the hotel, the
and pale green are a few of the choice highlights.
jewellery box interiors are completed, and the
Run by the founders of Italian Supper Club, the
atmosphere created is that of Venice’s newest
venue’s culinary offering celebrates elevated
and funkiest members’ club.
simplicity and seasonal produce from Italy’s
Drinks are overseen by Marta Barbaglia, previously of London’s Original Sin. The menu
coast, with classic dishes including spaghetti vongole, Venetian salami and tiramisu.
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Li Long Waldorf Astoria Ithaafushi MALDIVES
Words: Richard Frost Photography: © Alex Jeffries
IN A BITE Covers: 59 Private Dining Rooms: 1 Owner: Urbacon Trading & Contracting Operator: Hilton Worldwide Architecture: Highness Engineering Consultants Interior Design: Stickman Tribe F&B Consultant: CKP Hospitality Consultants www.waldorfastoria3.hilton.com
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I
nspired by the residences of Shanghai
antiques and curios, and an 18-seat outdoor
noblemen, Li Long is the signature Chinese
terrace serving up spectacular views over the
restaurant at Waldorf Astoria Ithaafushi,
Indian Ocean’s turquoise waters.
the luxurious new 122-villa resort in the
In terms of its culinary offering, Li Long
Maldives. Dubai-headquartered boutique design
specialises in contemporary Chinese cuisine,
consultancy Stickman Tribe has created the
with diners invited to choose between ordering
venue’s elegant interiors, which cleverly recreate
five- or seven-course tasting menus, or going
the intimacy of dining in a private home.
à la carte. Among the star attractions are roast
The experience begins with guests making
Beijing duck with Chinese pancakes, cucumber,
their way through a neatly arranged courtyard,
spring onions and hoisin sauce; and wok-fried
complete with manicured bonsai trees, to a
Maldivian lobster with ginger and spring onions,
small entrance foyer. This leads into a 27-cover
while an interesting dessert selection features
main dining room anchored by a large central
chilled mango pudding; and lemongrass jelly
banquette, accompanied by several smaller
with lime sorbet. Many menu items also pair
tables overlooking a classic wood-fired oven;
beautifully with the restaurant’s extensive
there is also a two-metre-high feature bell
portfolio of speciality teas.
made from infused porcelain and wood – a
Li Long is one of 11 F&B venues at Waldorf
modern take on the traditional Ming vase – and
Astoria Ithaafushi. The resort’s other notable
a high-pitched roof adorned with an iridescent
gastronomic options include Terra, a treehouse-
green covering, finished with an elaborate
inspired dining concept also designed by
timber screen sporting stylish brass highlights.
Stickman Tribe; The Ledge by Michelin-
The venue also boasts a 14-cover private dining
starred chef Dave Pynt, specialising in modern
room suitable for large family gatherings,
Australian barbecue cooking; and garden-to-
whose shelves are packed with eye-catching
table restaurant Glow.
Meet us at: Belgium – HORECA EXPO 2019 November 17th – 21nd, Ghent Booth: Hall 3 – Stand 3130 UK – TOP DRAWER 2020 January 12th – 14th, London Booth: B33 The Netherlands – HORECAVA 2020 January 13th – 16th, Amsterdam Booth: 1.332 France – MAISON&OBJET 2020 January 17th - 21st, Paris
@ chictableware www.chictableware.com
Germany – AMBIENTE 2020 February 7th – 11th, Frankfurt Booth: Hall 4.0 – Stand C78 Germany – INTERGASTRA 2020 February 15th – 19th, Stuttgart Booth: 6D11
CHIC_Supper_236x275_oct 2019.indd 1
22/10/2019 13:18
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Sparrow The Dalmar FORT LAUDERDALE
Words: Jenna Campbell Photography: © Bob Gundu
IN A BITE Owner: Wurzak Hotel Group Operator: Wurzak Hotel Group and Proprietors LLC Architecture: Sol-ARCH Interior Design: DesignAgency Culinary Director: Wes Hamilton Head Chef: Austin Stull Head Bartender: Pete Siewruk Dinnerware: Steelite www.sparrowbar.com
042
A
sky-high hideaway located on the 25th
dinnerware by Steelite. Curated by Head Chef
floor of The Dalmar, part of Marriott
Austin Stull and Proprietors LLC’s Culinary
International’s
Portfolio,
Director Wes Hamilton, it showcases a seasonal
Sparrow is a retro-themed rooftop bar boasting
medley of bold Floridian flavours like lobster
spectacular views over Fort Lauderdale. The
ceviche with coconut milk, and wagyu skirt
stylish venue, a collaboration between Wurzak
steak with chimichurri.
Tribute
Hotel Group and drinks specialist Proprietors
As for the varied drinks programme, overseen
LLC, is one of five different F&B concepts at the
by Head Bartender Pete Siewruk, the enticing
new 209-room property.
selection comprises a host of easy-drinking
Brought to life by DesignAgency, Sparrow’s
tropical cocktails, alongside some more
interiors pay homage to the 1970s with colourful
adventurous concoctions such as Kill The
carpets, deep velvet couches, marble and brass.
Lights made from Elijah Craig Bourbon, Carpano
Eye-catching features are dotted throughout to
Antica Sweet Vermouth, spiced pineapple and
create an inviting space, complementing the
Angostura bitters.
spectacular city and ocean views below. From
Sparrow forms part of an impressive F&B
an indoor lounge complete with neon accents
offering at the landmark lifestyle hotel. From
and dense seating clusters to the light tropical
the warm walnut millwork of Rose’s Cofee Bar
design of the wraparound outdoor terrace,
and double-height oak-panelled centrepiece in
the journey from lounge to covered patio
The Terrace Grill to the white terrazzo flooring
encompasses the relaxed and playful character
with brass inlay at Lobby Bar and the tropical
of the hotel as a whole.
features evident at poolside sanctuary Sip ‘n
The fusion between contemporary and
Dip, the designers have drawn upon a variety of
nostalgia-driven design is further reflected
influences to create an elegant property infused
in the innovative cuisine, served on smart
with a powerful sense of place.
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Salon Sacher Hotel Sacher VIENNA
Words: Richard Frost Photography: © BWM Architekten / Severin Wurnig
IN A BITE Covers: 40 Architecture and Interior Design: BWM Architekten F&B Manager: Andreas Keese Furniture: Thonet Lighting: Megumi Ito www.sacher.com
044
S
hortlisted for an AHEAD Europe award
of a chandelier, for example, and an atypical
in the Bar, Club or Lounge category,
black-and-white floor pattern. However, a
Salon Sacher is the newest F&B venue at
sense of tradition is maintained through the
Viennese institution Hotel Sacher. The 40-cover
use of tinted mirrors, elegant tables – whose
space, formerly home to Sacher Stube, has been
brass bases are complemented by new stone
imaginatively redesigned by BWM Architekten,
tops – and reupholstered Thonet chairs. Much
combining carefully inserted elements inspired
of the seating is decked out in a soft coral hue,
by the 1920s and 1950s.
referencing both the characteristic Sacher red
The family-run hotel has partnered with BWM
and the 1950s preference for pastel colours.
again on the back of a successful collaboration
Positioned in the heart of the space, the
revamping and extending Sacher Eck, a tourist-
bar serves up speciality teas and coffees in
oriented café and shop within the same building,
the daytime, followed by cocktails like Sacher
in 2017. During the initial investigatory work,
1876 (Champagne Ayala Brut Majeur, absinthe,
the practice discovered a stucco ceiling from
lemon juice and sugar) after dark. Customers
1881 hidden behind a suspended ceiling, and this
can also order light bites such as truffled ham
was duly turned into the main focal point. In an
with Russian salad, or the Original Sacher Torte,
ingenious move, bold vertical lines have been
the iconic chocolate cake invented by pastry
added to the walls, drawing the eye up towards
chef Franz Sacher in 1832.
an oval aperture surrounded by a neon border,
“Salon Sacher is a recreation of the 1920s,
ensuring every guest notices the intricate
done in the daring manner of the 1950s,” says
craftmanship above their heads.
Aleš Košak, Senior Architect at BWM. “On the
Salon Sacher playfully subverts standard
1920s side, it seeks to follow in the footsteps
Viennese coffeehouse tropes; it boasts custom
of the Sacher family, and on the 1950s side, it
arched globe lights by Megumi Ito instead
wants to be a bit daring and unexpected.”
Allegra The Stratford LONDON Continuing the legacy of St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel and Chiltern Firehouse, developer Harry Handelsman has created a new culinary destination in London’s East End. Words: Ben Thomas • Photography: © Sam A Harris (unless otherwise stated)
S
ince hosting the Olympics in 2012, Stratford has often
cook Nuno Mendes. “I thought that Patrick, who I knew well
been dismissed by city dwellers and travellers alike as
from Chiltern Firehouse, would fit the bill,” he confirms.
merely home to an interchange station on the DLR,
“And having collaborated with him over the past 18 months,
a shopping centre and – somewhat controversially – West
Powell’s training in French cooking, together with his
host of new openings have placed the district back on the
culinary experience garnered at Dublin’s Michelin-starred
capital’s up-and-coming list. Kicking off its latest phase of
L’Ecrivain under Derry Clarke and Wild Honey St James with
regeneration from industrial suburb to cultural powerhouse
Anthony Demetre, stood him in good stead for the role of
is The Stratford – a 42-storey skyscraper designed by
Head Chef at Allegra, while his emphasis on provenance
Skidmore, Owings & Merrill, which combines a 142-room
also led Handelsman to acquire land at Pale Green Dot farm
hotel and 248 fully furnished loft apartments with bars,
in Sussex – which now supplies many of the restaurant’s
restaurants and sky gardens.
ingredients. For Powell, the farm is integral to the menu.
The unique vertical community is the vision of Harry
“When I first began working with Harry on the plans for
Handelsman, the developer behind St. Pancras Renaissance
Allegra, we both agreed we wanted the restaurant to be more
Hotel and Chiltern Firehouse, who in creating the complex
than a place to eat,” he reveals. “Being lucky enough to
drew inspiration from the timeless glamour and communal
source ingredients from our own farm is every chef’s dream,
spirit of 1950s New York’s legendary long-stay hotels.
and the whole team is excited to work in a farm-to-fork
Though he did add his own personal touches too, naming
style. We’ll be evolving with the seasons, and I’m really
its restaurant after his youngest daughter, Allegra.
thrilled about the food we’ve opened the restaurant with as it
“This is my most ambitious project to date and I wanted
046
that impression is fully justified.”
Ham United. In more recent times, however, plans for a
showcases the flair, hard work and creativity of our kitchen.”
to put Stratford on the map,” he explains. “I felt that
Locally sourced produce is prominent throughout the
the project needed a truly wonderful restaurant to make
menu, on show in starters such as hand-dived scallops with
it a destination, and I was looking for a chef that would
cucumber, pickled strawberry and elderflower; tomato and
understand that vision and make Allegra their own.” That
gordal olive tart; and smoked eel pithivier with parsley sauce
chef is Patrick Powell, who Handelsman encountered at
and pickled chilli vinegar; as well as in mains like suckling
Chiltern Firehouse, working alongside renowned Portuguese
pig accompanied by turnip, Bramley apple and mint; Welsh
MAIN COURSE
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MAIN COURSE
lamb with sweet pepper romesco and pickled walnut; and baked celeriac with mizuna, jalapeno and celeriac ramen broth. And in case that wasn’t enough, larger dishes to share, such as grass-fed beef, are cooked over an outdoor grill and served with a smoked bone marrow and beetroot tart, while a whole roast chicken to share is stuffed with a cep sausage and arrives at the table in two servings. Powell has also created a seven-course tasting menu that changes daily, featuring a selection of highlights from the kitchen. “We’ve been working with the farm for over a year now and are really beginning to see the fruits of our labour with pumpkins, squashes, aubergines, different varieties of potato, kale, carrots and beetroot,” he continues. “We’re also particularly excited about next spring and summer, as there will be an abundance of amazing produce for us to work with.” Guests can choose to dine either à la carte or from a more informal terrace menu, while those looking to indulge in an evening nightcap can take a seat at the bar and enjoy the views with a glass of wine, selected from the venue’s glass-encased walk-in wine room by Head Sommelier Luigi Coco. “Our wine list features small independent producers from around the world, which our sommelier Luigi has discovered through his career,” says Powell. “We work with producers that might usually get overlooked in favour of the more conventional estates, and small importers in London as opposed to larger corporate suppliers, which gives us exclusivity on lots of interesting wines.” Aside from this striking room, the seventh-floor restaurant – designed by Space Copenhagen, the team behind Noma and 11 Howard in New York – features a 22-cover lounge and bar counter where guests are encouraged to savour cocktails, snacks, oysters or an assortment of charcuterie from the in-house curing room. Here and throughout the wider 72-cover dining area, mild tones of green and warm grey are illuminated by floor-to-ceiling windows and framed by a natural stone Montpellier floor, while across the venue, © Jan Baldwin
bespoke booth seating overlooks an open montage kitchen to create greater interaction between chef and guest. Glassware
049
MAIN COURSE
and cutlery from premium suppliers, including Riedel
an outdoor wood-burning grill, which acts as a large
and Studio William, further elevate the overall sense
fireplace come evening.
of luxury.
050
Allegra may form part of a wider vertical community,
In developing the interior scheme, the Danish
but Powell insists that the restaurant maintains a
design studio took cues from the locale before
feeling of independence. “Excellent hospitality, in
layering the space with what it describes as ‘poetic
every sense of the word, has always been at the core
modernism’. “We have a love for organic materials
of what I love and it’s certainly at the heart of this
that age beautifully, so we put a lot of energy into
building,” he reflects. “The space truly comes alive
trying to humanise the building,” explains co-founder
when we welcome our guests – and that’s the most
Signe Bindslev Henriksen. Such materials complement
rewarding part for me.”
a muted colour palette featuring rich, tactile surfaces
Though Stratford may not be the first destination
like natural woods and warm metals, together with
that springs to mind when deciding where to dine
clean-lined, softly curved upholstered shapes in the
out in London, there’s no question that the district is
form of furniture from Gubi, Roda and Benchmark.
on the rise – the £1.1 billion East Bank development
To maximise the views of London’s rooftops,
at Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park a clear indicator
meanwhile, the firm created the Highline Sky Garden,
of the city’s ambition to revitalise the area over the
a large outdoor terrace accessed through retracting
coming years, bringing with it Sadler’s Wells Theatre,
glass walls, where herbs used in the restaurant grow
the BBC and the Victoria & Albert Museum, not to
alongside seasonal plants – the latter reminiscent of
mention around 600 new homes within a complex
those found in the nearby Hackney marshes. Seating
centred around a 27-storey landmark tower. And with
up to 50 guests, the outdoor area is sheltered by a
restaurants like Allegra promising exceptional cuisine
triple-height, cedar cantilevered roof and illuminated
too, locals and travellers may soon start seeing that
pergola, while a separate terrace menu is cooked on
short ride on the DLR as a trip worth making.
IN A BITE Covers: 94 (inside), 68 (outside) Owner: Manhattan Loft Corporation Operator: The Stratford Developer: Harry Handelsman Architecture: Skidmore, Owings & Merrill Interior Design: Space Copenhagen Head Chef: Patrick Powell F&B Director: Ben Hesketh Head Sommelier: Luigi Coco www.allegra-restaurant.com
MS_Supper_Ad.indd 1
24/10/2019 16:26
Electric Lemon Equinox Hotel NEW YORK For its inaugural hotel project, Equinox has teamed up with Starr Restaurants to create an innovative F&B programme perfectly suited to its fitness-focused fans. Words: Heleri Rande • Photography: Courtesy of Equinox Hotels (unless otherwise stated)
O
ne of the pioneers of the fitnessas-lifestyle
movement,
partnership is located on the 24th floor of the
was founded back in 1991 and now
hotel, and the Executive Chef leading the troops
boasts dozens of gyms across the US and
is Kyle Knall. Hailing from the South – a native
internationally, but until up until this point
of Birmingham, Alabama to be more exact –
it has never run its own hotels. That has all
his resumé includes places such as Big Apple
changed with the opening of the inaugural
institution Gramercy Tavern, which he keeps
Equinox Hotel at Hudson Yards, an ambitious
referring back to during our conversation, and
212-room property, which the brand confidently
Maysville, named after the purported birthplace
asserts will represent the dawn of a new era
of Kentucky bourbon. “What I love to hear from
in luxury travel. The goal is to provide a
my guests is that this feels very much in the
360-degree lifestyle experience ‘for those who
moment,” he explains. “I want our customers
want it all’, a holistic philosophy intended to
to sense that they are in New York, have the
run throughout every touchpoint.
best ingredients on the plate and are enjoying
Electric Lemon, as fresh and vibrant as the
052
The venue resulting from this dynamic
Equinox
the energy that is here.”
name suggests, is the main restaurant space,
Equinox calls this ‘light, balanced and bright
serving up breakfast, brunch, lunch and
mid-Atlantic cuisine’, and what is particularly
dinner to the brand’s fitness-focused fans
noticeable is the strong emphasis on sourcing
whenever they want to refuel. It is concepted
high-quality ingredients. Indeed, Chef Knall
and operated by F&B trailblazer Stephen Starr
has built up personal relationships with
and Starr Restaurants (which is also behind
many farmers, giving him and his team the
New York favourites such as Le Coucou, Upland
opportunity to experiment with the best that
and Buddakan), a collaboration that reflects
each season has to offer back in the kitchen.
the hotel leadership’s determination to find
“What you see on the plate is what is available
partners capable of delivering on the Equinox
at the market,” he says. A great example is
ethos of high performance.
the Somewhat Simple Salad, comprising seven
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different vegetables, sunflower seeds and lemon
garden and private dining room spaces, with
vinaigrette; in addition to feeling like eating
plenty of cosy nooks to sneak into with a hot
from grandmother’s vegetable garden, the
beverage from the bar menu. Whilst the first
symphony of colours on display also delights
impression arising from all this grandeur is that
the eye.
the venue may appeal primarily to a somewhat
Equally important to the brigade is a laudable
selective clientele, the reality is actually very
desire to make full use of every ingredient,
different. “This is not a niche restaurant for
with both the food and drink programmes
special occasions only, we want our guests to
adhering to a zero-waste philosophy. Beverage
feel welcome every day if they enjoy the menu,
Manager Natascha Patterer and her colleagues,
and leave feeling fresh and energised,” reflects
for example, work with the culinary team to
Ara Dalzell-Patterson, Vice President of Food
create a range of bespoke cocktails, often using
and Beverage at Equinox Hotels.
unexpected ingredients like chive flower, sorrel
The handcrafted plates by Jono Pandolfi are
and sweet pea shrub along the way. Notable
something that immediately catch the eye as
creations include current signature serve Electric
Chef Knall brings out some of his creations, and
Gibson, which combines Bertha’s Revenge Gin,
that is certainly not accidental. “This plateware
dill aquavit and brined chive flower, and the
is made by artists who I always wanted to work
chef-inspired Kyle Knall, Y’all, utilising Mezcal
with, their earthiness comes through in the
Noble Coyote Espadín, Xila Ancho, sorrel and
touch and feel, and that perfectly complements
sal de gusano.
my dishes,” says Knall. Similarly, quality is
Electric Lemon’s elegant dining room,
again the watchword when it comes to serving
designed by Rockwell Group, is complemented
the drinks, with the restaurant choosing to use
by an 8,000 ft2 terrace that includes a herb
elegant glassware by Nude. Meanwhile, the
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or a purpose-built vehicle for entertaining
Butler, a women-led company whose clients
larger groups, this is definitely a room-service
span hotels, restaurants, retail and museums,
experience like no other, and it is perhaps
working closely with celebrity stylist and
telling that the menus have all been developed
creative consultant Kate Young.
together with Chef Knall and his team.
Interestingly, the entire room service offering
Entering the hotel market with a new luxury
– frequently a tired and uninspiring part of F&B
lifestyle brand was never going to be easy, and
operations elsewhere – has been completely
nor was trying to provide an equally compelling
reimagined at the inaugural Equinox Hotel.
F&B programme. However, by innovating in the
The team has put a lot of effort into upgrading,
areas that desperately need it – and keeping
and in some instances completely changing, the
the concept simple, approachable and tailored
service delivery, and also tweaking elements to
to guest needs – the teams at Equinox Hotel and
satisfy the needs of their high-performance
Electric Lemon have seemingly hit upon all the
guests; taking into account factors such as time
necessary ingredients to succeed in the ultra-
of day and function, menu items range from
competitive New York market and beyond.
jet lag-reducing smoothies to grass-fed beef burgers and grilled cheese sandwiches. “The balance between comfort and health was very important to us,” explains Dalzell-Patterson. “There is nothing wrong with indulgence if that is what our guests crave. The common thread here is the freshness of it all.” Whether delivered in a customised gym bag, a bespoke tiffin box
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© Jason Varney
© Jason Varney
sleek uniforms have been designed by Lady and
IN A BITE Owner: Equinox Hotels Operator: Starr Restaurants Architecture: Skidmore, Owings & Merrill Interior Design: Rockwell Group F&B Consultant: Ricca Design Studios Executive Chef: Kyle Knall Beverage Manager: Natascha Patterer Glassware: Nude Uniform Design: Lady and Butler www.electriclemonnyc.com
www.ladyandbutler.com
redefining modern uniforms
Cultureplex Native MANCHESTER The restaurateurs behind Bistrotheque and Hoi Polloi celebrate Manchester’s industrial heritage and cultural pedigree with their latest outpost. Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: © Felix Mooneeram
S
itting on the edge of Manchester’s
and an 80-cover restaurant, Bistrotheque,
Northern Quarter, the newly restored
specialising in uncomplicated dishes with
Ducie Street Warehouse – a Grade II-listed
a distinctively northern twist. The team’s
building formerly used to store cotton bales, a
ambitious regeneration plans also extend to a
vital product during the Industrial Revolution
mini-cinema showcasing a curated selection of
– has been given a new lease of life as serviced
art-house films; meeting and event spaces with
apartments and a thriving cultural hub.
sunken garden features; outdoor terraces; and
The capacious building, spanning eight floors
058
luxury gym BLOC.
and boasting a triple-height ground floor
“Culturally, Manchester is amazing, it
alongside 166 beautifully designed suites, is
punches well above its weight in terms of size
brought to Manchester by apart-hoteliers Native
and population,” says Waddington. Having
in collaboration with London restaurateurs
identified the growth of the city’s independent
David Waddington and Pablo Flack. The duo
hospitality scene, especially in neighbouring
behind Ace Hotel London Shoreditch hangout
Ancoats – where Michelin-starred Mana,
Hoi Polloi and Bethnal Green institution
Pollen Bakery and seasonal kitchen Erst are
Bistrotheque have been tasked with creating a
each housed in former cotton mills – the pair
ground-floor destination space for visitors and
saw the potential of Ducie Street Warehouse to
locals alike to experience, inhabit and breathe
build upon these culinary foundations and bring
new life into.
something new to the city. With both founders
Spearheaded by Waddington and Flack, the
originally hailing from Yorkshire, the project
hotel’s F&B offering, Cultureplex, features an
also represents a homecoming of sorts, a chance
all-day lounge and bar built for casual dining
to reconnect to a place where they both spent a
and co-working; an artisanal coffee counter,
lot of their youth.
Klatch, serving ‘healthy(ish)’ food and juices by
A full 25 years after meeting in London,
day, and natural wines and craft beers by night;
and with a successful portfolio of restaurant
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ventures behind them - including a string of
caramel leather seating. “There’s often a tendency to
temporary concepts such as Studio East Dining and
make grand statements and big splashes, whereas we
Kings Cross Filling Station - their northern venture
have created something that feels more harmonious
has been meticulously considered, with a concept that
with the building and doesn’t shout too loudly,”
responds specifically to the nature of the building
notes Waddington, citing Manchester’s John Rylands
itself. While the ground floor serves as a public space
Library and public halls - signposts of community and
for the aparthotel above, run independently, they “try
democracy - as a source of inspiration.
not to think about the upstairs at all,” notes Flack.
Elsewhere, the muted colour palettes and many
Conscious that the F&B offering and all the cultural
plants dotted around the space are complemented by
adages should reflect local appetites and not just hotel
locally sourced fixtures and apparel. Black tile floors
guests’ expectations, they have evolved the function
leading out on to the Piccadilly canal basin beyond
of the traditional lobby space into something akin to
– a seamless continuation of the building’s existing
a community hall.
terracotta features – are made in Stoke, while the
Seeking to respect the rich industrial underpinnings
serene powder blue of the Klatch counter has been
and original features of the listed building, they called
created by Darwen and Faience. In a nod to the city’s
upon Loren Daye, founder of New York design studio
past, meanwhile, the space includes Granby Workshop
Love is Enough, to bring a human scale to the space
terrazzo in the lounge and restaurant, constituted of
in a style reminiscent of the Hoi Polloi aesthetic
remnants from the region’s demolished buildings,
which she worked on previously. Restored by Archer
a reminder of how sensitive design techniques have
Humphryes Architects, a robust structure of vaulted
been woven into the building’s fabric.
ceilings, exposed barrel arched brickwork and hefty
This thoughtful approach, coupled with a strong
cast-iron columns remain intact, softened by features
conviction that the space should provide a number
including glazed Douglas fir wooden panels and
of cultural touchpoints, is mirrored by a distinctly
England Hospitality unfolds in space. Limitless opportunities open up. HoReCa at the world’s most important consumer goods trade fair is expanding. What’s more, from 2020 Hall 6.0 will offer a showcase for international innovations, a venue for a discourse of inventive gastronomy concepts and an exchange of trends.
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the show
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nuanced approach to food and beverage. In the lounge, for example, the fattoush salad with feta, and Chicken Kiev with celeriac remoulade, provides a hearty but relaxed dining experience. “There’s something on the menu for each moment of the day,” says Waddington. Appealing to the growing trend towards informal dining that has taken hold across the city and surrounding suburbs, the communal menu is designed with flexible workers and freelancers in mind, offering sharing plates like grilled bread, whipped ricotta, aubergine and parsley, accompanied by a selection of casual cocktails, including the Culturespritz, composed of rose vermouth, olorosso and sparkling wine. In Bistrotheque, the culinary offering features a number of the team’s staples, including their classic chicken with confit garlic and rocket, and much-lauded fish and chips. Nevertheless, this is also a defiantly crowd-pleasing menu, curated by Head Chef Blaine Duffy, which has been carefully crafted to suit the local palate. Similarly, the extensive cultural programme curated by Producer and Strategist Katie Popperwell reflects the laidback nature of the dining experience. Guests can enjoy piano brunches or linger in the lounge as a string quartet fills the room with harmonic symphonies, learn how to shuck an oyster, or catch a viewing of Sour Grapes in the mini-cinema, complete with quality wines and bar snacks. Workshops from local creatives, including terrarium taster
IN A BITE Covers: 80 (Bistrotheque) Operator: David Waddington and Pablo Flack Architecture: Archer Humphryes Architects Interior Design: Love is Enough Head Chef: Blaine Duffy F&B Manager: Conor Sheehan Head Bartender: Will Flower www.cultureplex.co.uk
062
sessions with Prestwich-based plant studio Nonsense and conversations with event partners Homobloc, further add to the overall impression that this is a very contemporary reimagining of the traditional public hall. A distinctive and considered take on hotel F&B, Waddington and Flack’s latest offering has cleverly created a space for both visitors and residents to make their own, while respecting the city’s strong personality and unique sense of self.
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02/10/2019 14:36:54
Memories Grand Resort Bad Ragaz SWITZERLAND Michelin-starred chef Sven Wassmer and top designer Claudio Carbone join forces to revamp the historic spa resort’s F&B offering. Words: Lauren Ho Photography: © Claus Brechenmacher & Reiner Baumann
F
or nearly 200 years, the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz has been luring in well-heeled guests with its formidable alpine vistas and soothing thermal waters. Yet it seems
almost counterintuitive that, despite its extensive haul of F&B options, the exclusive spa resort has never before had a proper health-focused restaurant. Now as part of a CHF 45 million (£35 million) overhaul for the Grand Hotel Quellenhof’s 150th birthday – one of the two five-star properties that make up the sprawling complex – a couple of former restaurant spaces have been updated with two new, innovative, clean-eating concepts by the resort’s Culinary Director Sven Wassmer. Previously the Head Chef at 7132 Silver Restaurant in Vals, where he won two Michelin stars, Wassmer brings what he calls ‘new Swiss Alpine cuisine’ to the hotel. This translates as fresh and uncomplicated food using foraged ingredients from the region, combined with the best local and international produce. “I thoroughly enjoy scavenging for treats like wild herbs, flowers or fir cones with my team,” explains Wassmer. “Our goal is to show how versatile and delicious healthy cooking can be.” At verve by sven, the casual all-day venue, Head Chef Sebastian Titz sends out feel-good dishes like the chia and linseed breakfast bowl topped with granola, bee pollen and berries; or wholesome dashi broth served with organic jasmine rice and Swiss kimchi. For the interiors, Wassmer worked with designer Claudio Carbone, who took his cues from the chef’s nature-focused philosophy, swathing the walls with
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live greenery and highlighting natural materials like
dance around each other in a perfectly orchestrated
leather, cotton and walnut, offset by a striking bar
performance, watching as they assemble pretty plates
lined with crumpled chromium steel. Here, fresh and
like the bright orange capuchin flower stuffed with
seasonal mocktails are served alongside wines from
creamy mountain cheese and served on top of a
the adjoining walk-in cellar, which is dominated by a
crunchy sourdough ‘cookie’, or innovative desserts
dynamic, sound-reactive, vine-inspired chandelier by
made from unexpected ingredients like lettuce – all
Czech lighting design outfit Sans Souci. “With a resort
served on simple linen-coloured ceramicware from
like this, you have to create unique interiors,” explains
Austrian company Rochini which, Wassmer says,
Carbone with a shrug.
“brings a sense of peace and quiet, letting the food
Next door in Memories, original details like the
066
do the talking”.
ornate ceiling have been enhanced with an understated
The cuisine is complemented by faultless wine
palette of curved ash wood partitions, rainforest-green
pairings courtesy of Wassmer’s wife, sommelier
Brazilian marble wall panels, restored 150-year-old
Amanda Wassmer-Bulgin, who interestingly has also
parquet flooring – found in the hotel’s attic storage –
developed a range of non-alcoholic options. “It would
and a standout ceiling light inspired by a tulip bouquet.
be foolish of me to presume that everyone wants to
This comes together to form a suitable backdrop for
drink alcohol,” she explains. “I want everyone to
the open show kitchen, or the ‘stage’, as Carbone likes
have a similar experience, which means providing
to call it. “The restaurant is meant to be my living
a complex alternative.” For Wassmer-Bulgin, that
room,” explains Wassmer. “I want to meet my guests,
means assessing each dish, identifying its key
talk to them about our products and invite them into
elements, and creating intricate concoctions like
the kitchen to experience how the dishes are made.”
fermented bilberries mixed with local grape juice and
Of course, the best seat in the house is at the kitchen
lingonberries, which she reckons is a great alternative
counter. Here, diners can see Wassmer and his team
to the local pinot noir. “It’s really important that the
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drinks are light and refreshing and not just based on
Cuisine Silvio Germann carefully crafts three courses
pure juices, which can be very filling,” she adds.
made up of a series of small sharing dishes like duck
Grand Resort Bad Ragaz’s decision to introduce two new restaurants by Wassmer does not, of course, mean
068
liver with a side of chocolate and cherries, tasty chicken nuggets, or deliciously fluffy curd soufflé.
that its remaining clutch of dining options fail to hit
This is a resort in which the F&B has clearly been
the mark. In fact, it’s quite the opposite, with the
considered down to the very last detail, and nowhere
property’s half a dozen other offerings amassing a
is that more apparent than at Igniv’s fun pick ‘n’
joint trove of no less than 59 Gault & Millau points and
mix counter where guests can choose some delicious
one Michelin star. Among these is Restaurant Namun,
petits fours to enjoy on their travels, or in one of the
an Asian dining room sending out classics like tangy
newly refurbished suites at Grand Hotel Quellenhof.
Thai mango beef salad or platters of dim sum; Gladys,
Here, Carbone has added a further dose of sparkle with
the restaurant at the resort’s golf club that caters to
warm yellow-gold, silver-grey and blue hues that are
a global audience via dishes like gnocchi with pesto
revealed through bespoke furnishings, hand-blown
or breaded schnitzel; and the Michelin-starred Igniv.
glass vases moulded from pieces of wood, and natural
At the latter, Swiss chef Andreas Caminada lends
materials such as walnut parquet flooring, silk, leather
his triple-Michelin-starred power to a cosy room
and stone. Continuing the theme, there is a 16-metre
with a vaulted ceiling designed by Patricia Urquiola,
central chandelier comprising 2,500 hand-blown glass
who has taken her cues from the restaurant’s name
spheres in the lobby, and a standout reception desk
– which means ‘nest’ in Rhaeto-Romance, one of
carved from Rhine quartzite and chromium steel.
Switzerland’s official languages – to mix brass,
“The idea was to give a new dress to the old lady,”
leather, golden-hued table bases and stone with an
explains Carbone. “The short five-month deadline for
unusual wall panelling of wooden parquet. In the
this project was stressful, but in a good way. It made
kitchen, meanwhile, Caminada’s protégé and Chef de
me happy to see it all come to life.”
IN A BITE Covers: 36 Operator: Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, Sven Wassmer Architecture and Interior Design: Carbone Design Culinary Director: Sven Wassmer Chef Pâttisier: Andy Vorbusch F&B Manager: Andreas Demont Wine Director: Amanda WassmerBulgin Head Waiter: Sebastian Stichter Dinnerware: Rochini Cutlery: Robbe & Berking Glassware: Zalto www.memories.ch
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Rubbish Cooks at Parker’s Tavern University Arms CAMBRIDGE A new supper club by the team behind Parker’s Tavern, part of the prestigious University Arms, aims to draw attention to the growing issue of food waste. Words: Richard Frost • Photography: © Chris Roberts (unless otherwise stated)
I
t is something of an open secret in hospitality
Arms, part of Marriott International’s Autograph
circles that many hotels, particularly those
Collection, a very different ethos prevails. Its
towards the boutique and luxury end of the
90-strong team, who collectively look after
spectrum, generate an inordinate amount of
everything from the property’s restaurant and
food waste. Creating an environment in which
bar to banqueting and room service, have been
guests want for nothing can have major knock-
quietly working to eliminate food waste ever
on effects for the kitchen, with management
since the historic hotel relaunched last summer
traditionally expecting chefs to keep enough
following an £80 million transformation
produce onsite to be able to rustle up whatever
programme overseen by John Simpson
the paying customer desires at a moment’s
Architects and Martin Brudnizki Design Studio.
notice. Yet if the orders fail to materialise,
Under the watchful eye of Chef Director Tristan
and the property’s F&B venues are not run on
Welch, everyone in the kitchen is encouraged
sustainable principles, these ingredients can all
to play their part; chefs are taught butchery
too often end up in the bin. And this is without
skills so that they can use the whole of each
even taking into consideration those ill-fated
animal across different dishes on the menu,
products that most professional establishments
while unused trimmings are measured to help
would turn down in the first place, like overripe
identify what could be done more efficiently
fruits or wonky vegetables.
in future. “We have very little food waste at
At Parker’s Tavern, the catch-all brand behind
Parker’s Tavern,” says Welch, who trained
the F&B operation at Cambridge’s University
under Gary Rhodes and Michel Roux Jr., before
071
© Simon Brown
072
later heading up celebrated London restaurants
created by combining cherry tomatoes with
the inclusion of a beautifully caramelised pie
Pétrus at The Berkeley and Launceston Place.
sherry vinegar. “You peel artichokes anyway,
stuffed with overripe peaches and topped with
“It’s one of my pet hates, I just cannot abide it.”
so it doesn’t matter if the leaves are brown,”
gingerbread ice cream; last but not least, there
Now, Welch is taking his social responsibilities
explains Welch, who goes on to note that his
are some moreish chocolate petits fours whose
a step further by introducing a monthly supper
suppliers also cannot sell the extra-mature
distinctly Caribbean flavour (Welch used to be
club designed to inspire and educate both chefs
cheddar (which is past its sell-by date, but not
Executive Chef of the exclusive Cotton House
and customers about the issue of food waste.
its use-by date) or the underripe tomatoes.
boutique hotel in Mustique) comes from the use
Rubbish Cooks, which takes place on the last
Nevertheless, the dish is utterly bewitching,
of coconut cream, extracted from dented tins
Monday of every month, sees guests pre-book
with the sharp acidity of the sauce providing a
that would otherwise have been binned.
a one-night-only set menu made from products
welcome counterpoint to the creamy intensity
that would otherwise be thrown away. “I’ve
of the raviolo filling.
This bespoke menu is priced at £20 per guest – £15 of which goes towards service costs, while
never been able to stand food waste and to be
Also on the menu is a wholesome soup
the remaining £5 is donated to Jimmy’s Night
able to do something highlighting the problem
made from the cheeks and collars of fish –
Shelter, a charity close to Welch’s heart working
is really exciting,” he continues. “The majority
not traditionally sought-after ingredients in
to support Cambridge’s homeless community.
of the ingredients we use on the night come
UK kitchens – and a generous serving of lamb
“We’ve been given the food for free, so we’re not
from suppliers and shops that have donated
shoulder knuckle (another little-used cut) with
charging for it,” he explains matter-of-factly,
items they can’t sell. And they can’t sell them
crushed wonky vegetables and the braised
when asked why Rubbish Cooks is so cheap to
because of consumer perceptions about what’s
inner leaves of a brown cabbage. “The funny
attend, although one senses many guests would
nice, and what’s not.”
thing is, that cabbage was the size of a football
be happy to pay more. Another unusual feature
At the inaugural event in September 2019, for
when it first came in, we just cut it down to
is that each supper club is limited to just 20
example, diners were treated to a homemade
the nice bits,” admits Welch, as he personally
covers, which makes sense when you consider
raviolo made from brown-leaved artichokes
introduces the dish to his guests. Those with a
the operational challenges involved in sourcing
and cheddar, accompanied by a tangy sauce
sweet tooth are not neglected either, thanks to
large quantities of unwanted ingredients, all
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without compromising on the quality and
gone by like Lord Byron, Sir Jack Hobbs and
consistency that Parker’s Tavern is known for.
Charles Darwin. They might even opt to stay
Despite the low price point, however,
the night, and drop by the library the following
guests still get to enjoy their set menus in the
day for an afternoon tea filled with savouries
same sophisticated 110-cover dining room as
and sweets inspired by local history, all in full
everyone else – the beautiful Martin Brudnizki-
view of Parker’s Piece, an open space where the
designed brasserie features original stained-
rules of modern-day football were famously
glass windows with crest detailing, statement
first drawn up in 1848. But there is certainly no
chandeliers, Cambridge Blue wall panelling and
obligation for diners to spend more, reflecting
solid-wood parquet flooring. Their dishes are
the fact that for Welch this is very much a case
also still served on stylish fine-bone-china
of standing up for what you believe in, rather
plates made especially for Parker’s Tavern by
than a hard-headed money-making venture.
William Edwards, accompanied by bespoke
“The population is going up and up, and if we
cutlery from Heritage Collection, and the front-
continue living this way, our food supply is going
of-house team is still every bit as attentive as
to run out quicker than we can feed people, so
they are with other diners.
there’s got to be a better way forward,” Welch
Of course, Rubbish Cooks guests may ultimately increase their spend in other ways, perhaps by ordering a bottle of the fruity Parker’s Tavern Claret – a collaboration with Bordeaux-based vineyard Chateau de Fontenille – or by retiring to the bar for a signature cocktail honouring notable Cambridge figures from days
concludes. “Plus, it just seems silly to waste perfectly good food.”
IN A BITE Covers: 110 (dining room) Private Dining Rooms: 3 Owner: Melford Capital Partners Architecture: John Simpson Architects Interior Design: Martin Brudnizki Design Studio Chef Director: Tristan Welch Executive Chef: Richard Stokes Head Chef: Peter Kiss F&B Manager: Albert-Ragnvald Wijnhold Bar Manager: Sebastian Bouza Dinnerware: William Edwards, Alliance Cutlery: Heritage Glassware: Alliance www.parkerstavern.com
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DINING
In a Pickle A growing number of chefs at London’s top hotels are turning to homemade pickles and ferments to help differentiate their cuisine. Words: Lucy Lovell
L
ondon’s culinary scene is evolving at an astounding pace, but pickled and fermented foods seem to possess greater staying power than other heretoday, gone-tomorrow fads, and indeed have been bubbling away in kitchens ever since first returning to the limelight a few years ago. Today,
a new generation of forward-thinking chefs is striving to master these traditional skills, and menus around the city fizz with the likes of kombucha and pickled vegetables. Of course, fermenting and pickling date back almost as far as human history; before the development of fridges and freezers, they were essential tools to keep larders stocked
all fond memories. “I know when fermenting hit the UK
over the winter months, and each country developed its own
four years ago, everyone started fermenting everything,”
techniques built around lactic acid, acetic acid, alcoholic
he recalls. “There was a lot of iffy-tasting stuff popping
fermentation and so on. The UK was certainly no different,
up. Now, people have got the hang of it; they understand it
but over time much of that know-how was lost. Admittedly,
more. It’s like anything: you need to not just read about it,
fermented foods never really went away entirely – bread,
but actually do it, and learn from your mistakes. What works
coffee and cheese are perfect examples – but many of these
for you and what doesn’t, it’s quite an investment of time.”
products were heavily processed, and knowledge of how to
According to Palmer-Watts, the key to good pickling is
make them was limited to a select few. It took the incredible
precision. As you’d expect from a Blumenthal restaurant,
rise of New Nordic Cuisine – led by the team behind Noma in
Dinner’s kitchen experiments tirelessly. “We use about
Copenhagen – to spark a fermentation renaissance. Inspired
20 types of vinegar,” he says. “Then you’re into different
by what became known as the most important restaurant for
methods: do you pour the pickle liquid over warm or cold?
a generation, cooks in London soon began to put their own
Is it a really high-acid pickle? Is it more delicate? How much
stamp on fermenting and pickling.
salt is in there?”
But mastering a new technique – especially something
And that’s just the pickling. In general, pickling involves
as wild as fermentation – doesn’t happen overnight. Ashley
soaking food in vinegar to inhibit bacterial growth, whereas
Palmer-Watts, Chef Director of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal
fermentation occurs when a food’s sugars are broken down
at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, was there when an influx
by microbes – in turn creating acids, which preserve and
of fermented and pickled foods flooded London, and it’s not
flavour the product. Palmer-Watts adds: “To be good at
DINING
“To be good at fermenting needs refining over many years. And when it’s wrong, things don’t taste good.” ASHLEY PALMER-WATTS
fermenting needs refining over many years. And
kombucha that can be served from the counter.
when it’s wrong, things just don’t taste good.”
We’ve done the lacto-fermenting and now we
The risk of occasionally rendering ingredients
want to work on something new.” One of the
inedible when experimentation goes wrong is
kitchen’s biggest challenges is simply being
clearly something to be wary of, but this is not
able to devote enough time to perfecting the
to say that the techniques are too difficult to
processes involved in fermenting and pickling,
even attempt. Take The Standard, which opened
says Rawson, who has been working flat out
at King’s Cross this summer, where Executive
since the hotel launched in July 2019. “And it is
Chef Adam Rawson doesn’t just dabble in the
a bit harder in hotels,” he admits. “In terms of
subject – he has grand plans for a full-blown
health and safety, you have to be super-dooper
fermentation programme. Kombucha, miso
on it. It’s all about the salt control, temperature
and vinegars are all in the pipeline. For now,
and pH.”
though, his kitchen is enjoying considerable
Scallop, fennel and apple at Da Terra
076
Constantly
adjusting
salt
levels
and
success with its innovative pickling programme.
temperatures, all while keeping the pH level
On the menu, there are whole pickled carrots as
below 5, might sound fairly labour-intensive,
part of the crudité starter; cultured butter and
but the team at The Standard is determined to
sourdough bread; and pickled courgettes, which
make it work. “The trick is finding the space,
come served with burrata and dill.
and someone to manage it...it can get out of
“I’m also making a hopped kombucha,”
control,” adds Rawson. “That’s why we’re
Rawson adds. “That’s the next wave of
starting with the lacto-fermentation, because
development – I’d like to make a house
it’s manageable.”
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DINING
“In terms of health and safety, you have to be super-dooper on it. It’s all about the salt control, temperature and pH.” ADAM RAWSON
Another challenge is the public’s occasional
The solution? Subtlety. Gently bringing in
misunderstanding of the subject, says Patrick
new flavours without spelling out to guests
Powell, Head Chef of Allegra. The modern
the precise methods used along the way to
European-influenced restaurant at The
create them. The menu at Allegra – like the
Stratford has a seasonal menu, which is directed
new Space Copenhagen-designed restaurant –
by the produce available at its own farm. When
is beautifully understated. “There are ways to
there’s a glut of fruit and vegetables, Powell
introduce it without saying, ‘this is something
turns to pickling and fermenting to help him
that we’ve fermented for you’,” he explains.
preserve surplus ingredients. The kitchen uses
“We’re careful with the wording.”
both techniques in various ways – but you
One example is the sauce accompanying
wouldn’t necessarily know it from looking at
the roast suckling pig dish; half reduced pork
the menu. “I think more people have become
sauce, half fermented turnip juice. “It’s quite
educated in it, but there are still a lot of people
amazing,” says Powell. “Instead of it being a
who see it as something that’s gone off,” says
heavy cloying thing that sticks to your palate, it
Powell. “I think a lot of people will consider it
makes it a lot lighter, raises the flavour profile,
as something that’s gone bad.”
and helps cut through the fattiness of the pork. You can add so many layers to a dish that the customer may never know about, but they’ll appreciate it when they taste it. That’s the goal, to make things as delicious as can be.” As long as the end result is indeed delicious, Powell
Grilled potatoes, pickled cucumber, sour cream and dill at Allegra
believes the revival of fermentation and pickling techniques is here to stay. “Like all trends, good things come from them,” he concludes. Pickling is also proving its worth in other, highly practical ways. In fine-dining restaurant Da Terra at Town Hall Hotel, the kitchen relies on pickling to turn unused trimmings into flavour-packed ingredients. Co-owner Rafael Cagali didn’t get completely swept up in the briney wave of fermentation, but he does quietly use the technique in his eclectic Latin American-meets-Italian dishes as a tool to minimise food waste. If there’s a tomato dish on the menu, for example, any trimmings are fermented for use on future dishes. Specifically, they will be left for up to a week in a sous-vide bag, which expands with gas as the alcoholic fermentation takes place. “When the bag is puffed up, and you can see it’s lively and bubbly inside, that’s how you tell it’s a healthy one,” explains Cagali. “We end up having this super salty, fizzy tomato water, which we add to dress the tomato when we use it fresh, for instance.” Far from being a fad, fermenting and pickling are helping chefs reduce waste and save money – a vital consideration given the tight margins that many hotel restaurants must work to. Combine this with the punchy, inimitable flavour profiles that these techniques deliver, © Sam A Harris
078
and it’s easy to see why chefs are using them more and more in the kitchen. In London, at least, renewed interest in these traditional skills shows no signs of fizzling out anytime soon.
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Four Seasons Pop Down London took place in a 21,000ft2 space in Camden
DINING
Four Seasons Pop Down London The experiential series lands in Camden, showcasing the talents of 15 top chefs and bartenders from Four Seasons properties around the world. Words: Richard Frost
H
otel brands are increasingly
company turn an empty concrete building into
waking up to the vital role that
an urban garden in its hometown of Toronto,
F&B can play in driving revenue
rework a former high school into a vibrant
growth, with many guests now
rooftop destination in Philadelphia, take over
choosing where to stay based
a superyacht in Miami, and convert a tiny
primarily on the quality of a
storefront into a quirky visitor attraction in
property’s restaurants and bars. The lure of
Hong Kong – each one showcasing exceptional
being able to try the signature dish of a top chef,
food and drink from its enviable roster of talent.
or sample cocktails by a master mixologist,
For the fifth instalment, this time at Camden
right on the doorstep cannot be underestimated,
Town’s Hawley Wharf Basement in north
particularly among younger demographics
London, Four Seasons spared no expense
whose purchasing decisions are often influenced
in creating its biggest Pop Down to date for
by the desire to seek out memorable experiences
an invite-only guest list, transforming the
that can be easily shared on social media. On the
21,000ft2 space into a self-styled ‘underground
face of it, the world’s top hospitality companies
playground’, replete with an enormous LED-
would seem to be perfectly placed to tap into
lit swing, carousel, bouncy castle, photo booth,
this trend – given that they frequently employ
nightclub-style lighting and booming sound
the biggest names in food and drink – yet all
system. The beats came courtesy of electronic
too often they seem to sell themselves short by
duo Disclosure – an act more commonly
failing to draw attention to the true breadth and
associated with star turns at Glastonbury,
depth of their offering.
Coachella and Lollapalooza – but the real draw
This is certainly not an accusation that could
on the night was the presence of no fewer than
be levelled at Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts,
15 top chefs and bartenders, each of whom had
which has hit upon the clever idea of running a
lovingly created dishes and cocktails inspired
series of attention-grabbing immersive events
by their childhood.
bringing together the best artisans from its
These included culinary legend Anne-Sophie
properties around the world. Previous editions
Pic – just days before her restaurant at Four
of the Four Seasons Pop Down have seen the
Seasons Hotel London Ten Trinity Square
DINING
was awarded its second Michelin star – who
Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya
our hotels and resorts,” says Christian Clerc,
personally presented guests with a wonderfully
River) and Sophie Larrouture (of Four Seasons
President of Worldwide Hotel Operations. “Pop
aromatic dish featuring pasta parcels filled
Hotel des Bergues Geneva), both stationed on a
Down – always somewhere unexpected, always
with Gruyère cheese, mushrooms, woodruff,
spectacular raised bar slowly rotating through
full of surprises – connects Four Seasons with
sobacha and hazelnuts, named ‘Berlingots’ in
360 degrees at the heart of the venue.
new people in new places in a deeply immersive
honour of a pyramid-shaped boiled sweet from
Organisers had clearly pulled out all the stops
her youth. Two more Michelin-starred chefs,
in an effort to deliver memorable experiences for
In London, the consensus from those
Dani Garcia and Erik Anderson, also made their
those attending too. Bartender Valentino Longo
attending was overwhelmingly positive, with
first appearances with Four Seasons ahead of
of Four Seasons Hotel at The Surf Club brought
guests revelling in the heady mix of gourmet
opening new restaurant concepts in Madrid and
along a prop straight out of an amusement
creations, mixological masterpieces and
Napa Valley respectively. The drinks offering,
arcade, a claw vending machine containing
cutting-edge audiovisuals. The journalists
meanwhile, was spearheaded by renowned
transparent spheres filled with Negroni
and influencers attending were also quick to
mixologists like Philip Bischoff (of the upcoming
Sbagliato; guests who successfully managed to
document every moment on social media,
pick one up were then roundly congratulated
grabbing selfies with top chefs or posing for
by the bar team, and promptly served the drink
photos next to the many strategically positioned
over ice. And pastry chef Yudith Bustos of Four
signs emblazoned with the company’s logo and
Seasons Hotel Washington DC had her very own
the #fourseasonspopdown hashtag, ensuring
wheel of fortune – players were invited to spin it
the true reach of this experiential pop-up
to determine which of her Costa Rican-inspired
extended far beyond the few hundred names
sweets would be served up next.
on the guest list. If Four Seasons’ goal was to
Botton Left: The immersive event featured a carousel, a bouncy castle and an LED-lit swing. Bottom Right: Master mixologist Philip Bischoff mixed drinks on a spectacular rotating bar
082
way showcasing the very best of the brand.”
“The heart and soul of Four Seasons is found
raise the profile of its global F&B offering, they
in our people, whose unlimited creativity and
can certainly consider it mission accomplished
generous spirit goes far beyond the walls of
on this evidence.
S/S 2020
Bloomingville
12—14 January Olympia London
DESIGN
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topdrawer.co.uk/supper
Epicurean Experiences Combining a passion for gastronomy with thoughtful and holistic design solutions, Goddard Littlefair launches a dedicated new F&B agency. Words: Jenna Campbell • Photography: © Kristy Noble
A
n Epicurean is a person devoted to sensual
service-driven attitude’, and so the decision to
enjoyment, especially that derived from
expand felt like a natural progression in many
fine food and drink. Goddard Littlefair,
ways. “We’re working closely with owners,
the London-based luxury interior design
operators and brands, so you get to know what
house, may well have had that in mind when
they are looking for and what is missing,”
developing the vision behind its new sister
explains Littlefair. “We got the strong feeling
company; Epicurean, as it is called, specialises
that F&B within the hospitality world is almost
in creating and developing F&B concepts across
like the holy grail. If you can get a successful
both hotels and standalone venues.
restaurant and bar working in a fantastic hotel,
In some respects, this move builds upon
it’s the icing on the cake.”
Goddard Littlefair’s existing track record of
To tap into this market, the co-founders
delivering projects for the likes of The Gleneagles
concentrated on recruiting staff with a strong
Hotel in Scotland, the restaurant within
background in restaurant and bar design.
Corinthia Hotel St Petersburg and The Garden
“Martin and I are very respectful of other
restaurant at The Principal Edinburgh Charlotte
designers and how they work - we saw a lot
Square. The team also worked on revamping
of energy, enthusiasm, and passion for food,”
The Lowry Hotel in Salford, specifically the
notes Littlefair. “We wanted to create a package
Presidential Suite and public spaces - a fitting
for people to use our experience and knowledge
location then for the design house, supported by
to deliver something that is on point, aware of
Supper, to host the launch of Epicurean.
its location and what the chef is capable of,
Established by Martin Goddard and Jo
and synergise that with our understanding of
Littlefair in 2012, Goddard Littlefair prides
hotels.” The ambitious new venture provides
itself on combining ‘aesthetic perfectionism
an end-to-end service, including interior
and boundless curiosity with a team-playing
development, procurement, uniform and OS&E
DINING
DINING
“We got the strong feeling that F&B within the hospitality world is almost like the holy grail. If you can get a successful restaurant and bar working in a fantastic hotel, it’s the icing on the cake.” JO LITTLEFAIR
086
direction, as well as kitchen and bar design, strategy and branding.
Over the next few months, the team plans to put its holistic approach into action on
“The thing about Epicurean is that it thinks
projects including the eagerly anticipated Villa
about the whole process holistically, from front
Copenhagen. This transformation of the former
to back,” she continues. “We really examine
Central Post & Telegraph Head Office aims to
what’s going on in the local area, the trends
accentuate the building’s historic aspects while
influencing it, everything from the design
also introducing contemporary Nordic designs
down to the knife and fork on the plate. Things
across its four F&B spaces. Exploring the idea
like creating space for people to breathe, the
of versatility, the former sorting room will
distance between tables and the operational
house the hotel’s breakfast space and bakery;
requirements, all of that thought process goes
in designing the hotel’s other culinary spaces,
into the design concept.”
meanwhile, Epicurean has sought to respect
Epicurean will be headed up by Goddard
the non-hierarchical underpinnings of Danish
Littlefair Associate Lucy Robinson, who has
dining, while drawing on its interiors expertise
over a decade of hospitality experience, and
and hospitality prowess to deliver a thoughtful,
loves travelling around Europe on weekends
contemporary and functional scheme.
to discover the latest developments in fine
Goddard Littlefair has certainly come a long
dining, street food and everything in between.
way in the last few years, with its growing
“Informality is key at the moment, with a new
reputation backed up by an impressive portfolio
generation of chefs coming front of house to
of work. Now with the launch of Epicurean, it is
serve the guests,” she reflects, before adding
clearly laying the groundwork for the next phase
that hotels are increasingly seeking “softer and
of expansion, one that reflects the increasing
cosier environments where people can sit from
importance of providing high-quality F&B
breakfast until dinner”.
across the hospitality industry.
W W W. D I B B E R N . D E
DIB321899_Anz_Coffee-to-go_236x275.indd 1
24.10.19 12:07
Steelite’s Vesuvius range spans a variety of plates, bowls and platters
Š The Image Factory
DINING
Going Green As customers increasingly call on hotels to reduce their carbon footprints, suppliers are springing into action by launching a host of premium eco-friendly products. Words: Richard Frost
C
oncerns
man-made
because “now we have a consumer who is
climate change are nothing
about
knowledgeable, aware and responsible”. There
new, but there are signs that the
are signs that the industry is beginning to heed
issue is now rapidly moving up
the call too, with the SRA’s website listing high-
the political agenda thanks to
profile establishments like Blanc’s Belmond Le
high-profile interventions from
Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire, The
the likes of Extinction Rebellion, Sir David
Ritz in London, The Pig in Brockenhurst and Sir
Attenborough and Leonardo DiCaprio. This
Richard Branson’s luxury ski chalet The Lodge
in turn is prompting consumers to become
in Verbier among its members. Embracing
increasingly worried about how their lifestyle
sustainability can take a variety of forms, of
choices are affecting the planet, and many are
course – Blanc recommends upgrading kitchen
actively looking for ways to reduce their carbon
equipment, reducing waste and minimising
footprint. In the hospitality sector, for example,
consumption of natural resources as just
some are consciously choosing to spend their
some of the measures that venues can take. In
hard-earned money in hotels, restaurants
practical terms, one of the key decisions that
and bars with strong green credentials, and
hotels can make is to source products from
shunning brands whose approach is perceived
suppliers with a strong commitment towards
to be damaging the environment.
protecting the environment.
Adding to the momentum, Sustainable
Steelite, which is headquartered at Stoke-
Restaurant Association (SRA) President
on-Trent in the heart of the Potteries, certainly
Raymond Blanc delivered a rousing keynote
boasts impressive green credentials; the
at the Global Restaurant Investment Forum in
hospitality tableware manufacturer installed a
Amsterdam earlier this year urging investors,
market-leading Lamella system for recycling
owners, operators and consultants to adopt
clay waste in 2007 that dramatically reduced
eco-friendly working practices, not least
the amount of material discarded during
© ADP Photostudios
090
DINING
Top: Dibbern’s Coffee-To-Go Cup is made from highquality fine bone china Bottom: Launched in collaboration with the Eden Project, LSA’s Canopy collection uses 100% recycled glass
production, and it was certified by the SRA as an
suited for use in hotel F&B, as well as some elegant
approved supplier for the hospitality industry in 2013.
flower vases and planters.
The business, formed in 1983 following the purchase
Over in Germany, Dibbern has been producing
of Royal Doulton’s hotelware division, is a significant
timeless designs that eschew pandering to short-
player globally too, producing more than 500,000
lived fads ever since the tableware manufacturer was
pieces of tableware every week and exporting to over
founded in the 1960s. Many of its products use fine
140 countries.
bone china, a premium material offering exceptional
Steelite’s new Vesuvius range of plates, bowls
durability as well as a beautiful radiance, making
and platters – part of its Performance collection of
it highly sought-after by the world’s luxury and
smart, functional and affordable tableware – perfectly
boutique hotels.
illustrates the company’s approach. These products are
One such example is Dibbern’s stylish new Coffee-
made from strong and durable alumina vitrified clay
To-Go Cup; made from high-quality fine bone china,
bodies, greatly reducing the frequency of chipping and
and fitted with BPA-free non-toxic lids and vegetable
breakage incidents, and ensuring customers do not
tanned leather sleeves, it is a world away from the
have to worry about their carbon footprint spiralling
everyday drinking vessels routinely handed out to
upwards as a result of constant reordering.
customers in mainstream coffee shops. Hotels can
Meanwhile, LSA International has been working
even customise the cups by adding their own logos or
to minimise its environmental impact ever since the
corporate designs, making them an excellent option
family-owned drinkware, tableware and accessories
for properties with their own cafes or shops – as
supplier was established in 1966. Creative Director
well as those delivering premium in-room packages
Monika Lubkowska-Jonas, whose father co-founded
– that are looking to spread the word about their
the Surrey-based business, uses high-quality
commitment to protecting the environment.
materials – specifically glass, porcelain, leather,
For hospitality professionals, there is a clear
wood and enamelled steel – and complex artisanal
financial logic underpinning all of this, with more
techniques to create distinctive products that stand
and more consumers seeking to make informed
the test of time.
purchasing decisions based on carefully considering a
A perfect case in point is Canopy, a new collection
brand’s core values, rather than just quality or price.
made from 100% recycled glass launched in
However, there is also a moral imperative to consider
collaboration with the Eden Project, the educational
too, and hotels are by no means exempt from a wider
charity behind the world-famous ecotourism
societal drive towards tackling global warming by
attraction in Cornwall. This product range is inspired
transitioning from reckless profligacy into responsible
by the themes of hydration and propagation, and
low-carbon economies. As Blanc himself neatly put it
encompasses a variety of dishwater-safe tumblers,
during his rapturously received speech: “We need to
highballs, beer glasses, carafes and ice buckets ideally
change, we can’t keep going on as we used to.”
091
SIGNATURE Morello Cherry Soufflé Les Fresques Hôtel Royal SWITZERLAND
The grand finale of the in-suite Royal Dinner 110 menu – which celebrates Hôtel Royal’s 110th anniversary – and also available at the property’s Michelin-starred restaurant Les Fresques, this striking soufflé is accompanied by Morello cherry marmalade and almond ice cream. Created by Head Pastry Chef Stéphane Arrête, the signature dessert references a devastating fire that struck the hotel in 1958, with a locally made kirsch liqueur set alight and poured over the dish in front of guests. Served on an elegant gold-rimmed plate by JL Coquet, the soufflé has proved so popular that some diners come back from afar simply to taste it again, according to Arrête. It forms part of a luxurious menu offered to heads of state during the G8 Summit held at the hotel in 2003. Originally built in honour of King Edward VII – who died before ever having the chance to visit – Hôtel Royal has welcomed famous names like Edith Piaf, Greta Garbo, Marcel Proust and Ray Charles down the years. The historic property underwent a large-scale refurbishment in 2015 and gained official Palace status a year later, followed by a Michelin star for its Les Fresques restaurant in 2018.
© Pascal Reynaud
SIGNATURE
Scottish Scallop and Yuzu Kitchen at Holmes Holmes Hotel LONDON
Formerly known as Park Plaza Sherlock Holmes, the 118-
Italian crudo. Its centrepiece is a thinly sliced scallop in a
room Holmes Hotel reopened earlier this year following a
dressing made from frozen yuzu juice, white soy sauce, olive
£9 million investment by PPHE Hotel Group to reposition
oil, vegetable oil and salt; this is accompanied by finely diced
the property and capitalise on the high-end development
green chilli peppers, blanched broad beans, freshly picked
seen throughout Marylebone in recent years. The group’s
baby basil leaves, and thin shavings of radish, Italian celery
first premium boutique hotel includes a new 50-cover
and asparagus. Each element is carefully positioned on an
concept restaurant, Kitchen at Holmes, which takes its cue
attractive Surrey Ceramics plate with irregular edges that was
from the changing seasons, and features an unusually high
custom-made for the restaurant’s opening.
number of vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Unlike
“I wanted to create something that could be appreciated
its predecessor, the stylish all-day venue also has its own
either as a light bite or as a perfect starter for your meal,”
entrance onto Baker Street, as well as an open kitchen area
explains Motta, whose internationally minded menu also
where customers can watch their food being plated.
incorporates ingredients from the likes of Spain, Norway and
This refreshing Scottish Scallop and Yuzu dish, created by well-travelled Head Chef Stefano Motta, is inspired by an
Alaska. “The sweet buttery flavour of the scallop is perfectly balanced by the bitter citrus notes of the yuzu.”
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Wolgan Gin at One&Only Wolgan Valley in New South Wales
© Jackielyn Powell
SIPPING
Gin, Tonic and a Room for Two Hotels around the world are successfully tapping into their guests’ growing interest in discovering high-quality gins. Words: Nina Caplan
I
f ever there was a spirit for our times,
clearly aiming the hotel side of the operation
that spirit is gin: there seems no limit to
squarely at gin-lovers.
the number of different flavours, price
This kind of brand extension has a certain
points and ideas that this drink, which is
indisputable logic, for sure, since anyone who
essentially flavoured vodka, can comfortably
loves the drink will already be warmly disposed
accommodate. So it makes sense that a
towards the place behind it. The Chase family,
range of innovative hotels are using gin’s
which makes gin and other spirits from a base
individuality to express their own, and enticing
in Herefordshire, has seemingly made a similar
in the world’s ever-increasing number of
calculation, buying nearby country-house hotel
connoisseurs in the process.
Verzon House, as has the Adnams dynasty with
Sometimes, hotels decide to adopt a gin;
The Swan over in Suffolk: both properties
sometimes, gin adopts a hotel. In London, a
incorporate tours of the distillery, and offer the
decade ago, the inventors of Portobello Road
opportunity for guests to enjoy the contents on
(the gin) opened a bar in Portobello Road (the
the premises, or in the comfort of their own
place); recently, they’ve added an education
homes. Of course, it’s no problem if somebody
space, the Ginstitute, a restaurant with a wide
books in just because they like the décor or the
selection of gins (“but it’s more about quality
location, but affection for a favoured spirit can
than quantity,” says owner Ged Feltham), and
run deep – particularly in these times where
bedrooms featuring record players, vinyl – and,
loyalties are tested by the sheer number of
of course, a complimentary Martini and Negroni
brands and flavours available.
waiting in the fridge. This four-floor gin mecca
England has led the recent gin renaissance,
is collectively called The Distillery. “I always
which is unsurprising perhaps when you
love it when you visit a distillery and you can
consider that England has been crazy about the
actually stay onsite,” explains Feltham, who is
juniper-based spirit, at some points literally,
SIPPING
ever since the drink was first brought over from Holland in the 17th century. Anyone who has seen artist William Hogarth’s drawing of Gin Lane – mothers letting their babies fall to their deaths while they nurse the precious liquor, men either involved in devilry or already dead – will appreciate how far the category has come in the UK since its earliest days. But, in truth, the spirit’s popularity has now spread across the world. In a remote valley in New South Wales, Australia, a premium resort is making high-quality gin as a way to both add value for guests and express the magic of the place: much like wine, gin, for One&Only Wolgan Valley, offers a taste of the terroir. So, the water for the distillation comes from Carne Creek on the spectacular 7,000-acre property; and the botanicals include lemon tea-tree, which grows there. The distillery where 1832 Wolgan Gin (named for the year the valley was first settled by white Australians) is made is in Bathurst, just down the road – insofar as anything is down the road from this secluded valley. And the gin is available nowhere else, so exclusivity (a bottle costs AUD$140, or about £75) adds to the gastronomic appeal. In Singapore, meanwhile, one of the city-state’s most venerable names has linked up with one of the erstwhile mother country’s newest to produce a hotel-and-gin collaboration unlike any other. Raffles, the stately and luxurious old-world hotel, has form when it comes to gin: © MGM Resorts International
the Singapore Sling, one of the most beloved cocktails in existence, was invented here in its peanut shell-strewn Long Bar, by bartender Ngiam Tong Boon, in 1915. Now the eponymous hotel chain, which reopened its flagship property in August 2019 after a two-year refurbishment programme, has joined forces with Sipsmith to create a bespoke spirit, Raffles 1915 Gin, for its exclusive use. And this is not the only link between the pair: Sipsmith’s co-founder Sam Galsworthy is the great-great-great nephew of Sir Stamford Raffles, founder of modern Singapore, for whom the hotel
“There has been a global uptick in the general interest in gin, especially when it comes to craft cocktails featuring the spirit.” Marshall Altier
was named. Like 1832 Wolgan Gin, the drink incorporates local botanicals – including cardamom and jasmine flowers – to give guests a liquid sense of place, and is named so as to reference the passage of time: specifically, the year the Singapore Sling was invented. The synergy is as smooth as tonic in gin. Elsewhere, the move towards gin feels like a more conventional calculation that, if a spirit’s popularity is currently off the charts, a hotel can only benefit from offering a wide range, especially if it is innovatively and knowledgeably presented. In Las Vegas, the new Park MGM includes the Juniper Cocktail Lounge, boasting the city’s largest collection of gins; and in Miami Beach, Kimpton Angler’s Hotel has Minnow Bar, also featuring an impressive selection of gins and drawing customers in thanks to a relatively new and increasing interest in cocktails among locals, as well as the longstanding keenness of tourists.
Dirty Martini at Juniper Cocktail Lounge in Las Vegas
098
Admittedly, MGM Resorts International Corporate Mixologist Marshall Altier points out that Juniper’s precise
CAMUS Cognac is a proud partner of world famous chefs and best-in-class mixologists. Discover the full program on our official YouTube Channel.
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SIPPING
Boogie Witch at Minnow Bar in Miami Beach
clientele can be hard to pin down, since it may be
to gain the trust of our guests,” says Juniper’s Altier
the watering-point for fans of such different events
– and he keeps that trust by doling out information
as an Aerosmith residency, a Lady Gaga gig or the
only in palatable quantities. “When it comes to gin
Vegas Golden Knights games next door, though he
knowledge, there is a great deal of information in
does acknowledge that “there has been a global uptick
terms of styles, geography and production methods.
in the general interest in gin, especially when it comes
It can be a bit of a rabbit hole.” But it is one, he
to craft cocktails featuring the spirit”.
cheerfully adds, that the team is happy to go down
For Altier, meanwhile, the US – like the UK – can
100
with guests who show an interest.
claim ownership of this particular liquor. “Gins were
Is this linking of a hotel brand with a popular spirit a
the cornerstone choice for classic cocktails in the
viable long-term plan? Interestingly, Feltham believes
United States pre-Prohibition, which makes them a
gin has peaked, and flavoured gins that are more like
great starting point for conversation,” he says. “The
liqueurs will be the next big thing. This could prove
re-emergence of that cocktail culture has created an
problematic for places that have nailed their colours
explosion in gin brands, gin styles and even craft tonic
to the gin mast; except that, as the Singapore Sling
waters, and we are happy to have a dedicated venue to
shows, gin never really goes out of fashion. Any
showcase and reflect the trend.”
hotel that uses gin to strengthen rather than form its
When following rather than leading a trend, it pays
identity surely has little to worry about. Perhaps in
to be careful. Bartenders at both Minnow and Juniper
the end it’s the unique touches – an adorable cocktail
are happy to get technical – Minnow’s Chris Resnick
glass shaped like a bird at Juniper; a gin masterclass
says he likes nothing more than winning over a bar
in the grounds, with the distiller coming in from
filled with sceptics – but they also need to gauge
Bathurst, at One&Only Wolgan Valley; or homemade
the clientele’s interest in that level of detail. “The
spirits in-room at The Distillery – that make a hotel
cocktails themselves make a great entry point for us
special. The gin itself is just a delicious accessory.
The oldest Wine House in Champagne: Aÿ 1584 SUPPER_GOSSET GRVGROS PLAN_03/2019.indd 1
04/03/2019 14:30
SIPPING
Raise Your Glass Properties are increasingly looking to procure glassware that is both stylish and practical, and premium brands are responding accordingly. Words: Donna Salek
H
otels simply cannot afford to
For their part, glassware suppliers have
overlook the importance of
not only looked to create visually striking
using high-quality glassware
products, but also to develop designs that
across their F&B operations.
enhance the overall drinking experience in
The temptation, of course,
line with the latest scientific research. A study
when buying supplies in bulk
published in the Journal of Wine Research,
is to opt for standard designs made from
for example, found the intensity of a wine’s
cheap materials in order to keep costs down.
aroma is highly correlated with the ratio of the
However, modern consumers are expecting
cup diameter to the glass opening diameter;
to enjoy more elegant and theatrical drinking
similarly, decanters can come in a number of
experiences than ever before, while those in
distinct shapes and sizes, each perfectly suited
charge of procurement are seeking products
to aerating and oxygenating different varietals
that can withstand the cut-and-thrust of
and blends. Furthermore, it is worth bearing
commercial bars and kitchens, so trying to
in mind that wine is not the only beverage
cut corners in this way would certainly be a
whose characteristics can be influenced by the
false economy.
glass in which it is served — the same applies
Moreover, it is worth remembering that
to beer, spirits and soft drinks.
trends in glass shape, colour and texture are
If there is one quality that unites all of the
constantly changing — one has only to think
top glassware brands, it is their unwavering
back to the dramatic rise of the mason jar for
commitment to innovation, with designers
serving cocktails, for instance. Customers are
constantly striving to create new products that
always on the lookout for the next big thing
look great and can be reused again and again.
and so, in our Instagram-centric world, getting
All of which means that today’s hotels can
the aesthetics right can really make or break
take their pick from an extraordinary variety
an establishment’s reputation on social media.
of first-rate options.
SIPPING
1.
3.
2.
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1. Metropole LSA International
2. Nude x Remy Savage Nude
3. Pebble Decanter Zieher
Taking its inspiration from iconic Brutalist landmarks around the world, LSA’s mouthblown Metropole collection comprises three decanter designs and one tumbler. Strong architectural silhouettes are consistent throughout the range, highlighting the quality and craftsmanship of each individual piece. The Battersea decanter is inspired by Battersea Power Station, the Malmo by Hyllie Water Tower in southern Sweden, and the Kiev by the eponymous city’s striking structures. The Metropole tumblers — designed to complement the decanters — also boast a geometric form anchored by a discshaped block of glass at the base. www.lsa-international.com
Nude has unveiled a collection of six new cocktail glasses designed to overcome common challenges in bars. Created in collaboration with famed mixologist Remy Savage, the elegant range comprises: the Coupe, a glass with a shallow bowl perfect for drinks with egg white and ice balls; the Coupetini, a blend between a classic martini glass and a modern Coupette; the Pony, taller and smaller in volume than the traditional style with a rounded base and long, thin stem; the Low and Highball, both robust and subtly flared to avoid chipping; and the Water, with a rounded design that emulates the shape of liquor glasses. www.eu.nudeglass.com
Crafted from high-grade, lead-free crystal glass, Zieher’s Pebble Decanter boasts excellent craftsmanship and brilliance when reflecting light. The expertise of the glass blowers is demonstrated in the intricate shaping of the base, which is sectioned into three convex segments. These swales, in addition to the long neck, maximise the wine’s surface area, aiding aeration, particularly when the decanter is swirled. In addition, the three bulges underneath ensure the glassware remains stable, while the diagonally cut neck opening and immaculately polished raw edges minimise the formation of drops when pouring. www.zieher.com
International representative: HD Sheldon & Co., Inc Tel: 212-924-6920 E-Mail: sales@hdsheldon.com Web: www.hdsheldon.com
The Sunkist Commercial Juicer is recognized by the industry as one of the most reliable commercial citrus juicers on the market. With its unique metal strainer that oscillates an operator can easily extract between 20-25 gallons of juice per hour using pre-cut citrus. The juicer comes with three extracting bulbs and is made in the USA. Please visit us at our new website: www.sunkistequipment.com
SIPPING
1.
2.
3.
106
1. Starr John Jenkins
2. Edge Rona
3. Experience Stölzle Lausitz
Made by hand from lead-free crystal glass, John Jenkins’ Starr wine glasses are dainty and light — the brand has hailed them as its finest to date. The collection comprises ten styles adapted for different wines, as well as a beer glass and a decanter. The ultra-thin stem of the glasses reduces unnecessary weight and also brings the wine closer to its drinker, while the fine rim enhances the taste of the serve, allows the liquid to flow with ease and adds a touch of elegance to the design. Intended for serious wine enthusiasts, Starr is part of an expansive product portfolio at John Jenkins, one of the UK’s leading suppliers of crystal and glass to the high-end hospitality industry. www.johnjenkins.co.uk
Known for making pioneering technological advancements in glassware throughout its history, Rona was the first manufacturer to produce pressed glass back in 1893. Characterised by laser treatment to the rims, the Edge collection features lightweight, angular and defined glasses with tapered bowls and slender long stems that accentuate a contemporary style. The Slovakian glassmaker’s latest range is crafted from barium crystalline and comprises a champagne flute, burgundy and bordeaux models, as well as a stylish carafe designed to allow a variety of wines to breathe properly, helping to bring out their unique aroma and flavour characteristics. www.rona.sk
With roots that go far back into history, it is thought that Stölzle Lausitz’s home has been a centre of glassmaking since the middle ages. Drawing upon this rich heritage, its Experience range is crafted from clear lead-free crystal, combining elegant profiles with jointless machine-pulled stems to achieve greater durability and performance. The seven models within the collection, complemented by a champagne glass and five tumblers, boast sweeping curves and clear tapering, providing connoisseurs with a heightened aroma and flavourful drinking experience across a whole host of different wine types, from strong and dry reds to smooth and fruity whites. www.stoelzle-lausitz.com
When only the best is good enough
The new GIGA X8
Coffee pleasure – freshly ground, not capsuled 32 speciality coffees can be selected via the 4.3" touchscreen colour display 2 precision ceramic disc grinders with Automatic Grinder Adjustment (A.G.A.®) for consistently even grinding Speed function: Hot water bypass for perfect speciality coffees in record time plus added user convenience www.jura.com
Ideal areas of use: Hotel restaurants, bars, breakfast rooms, private function areas, hospitality venues Recommended maximum daily output: 200 cups JURA – If you love coffee
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COCKTAIL
COCKTAIL
Wood Ozone The Ritz-Carlton HONG KONG
Part of Ozone at The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong’s
highest bar. The savoury Water – coconut water
new Five Elements cocktail menu, Wood sees
mixed with vodka and sake served in an oyster
Bob’s Chocolate Bitters and Fernet Hunter
shell decorated with pearl-like bubbles – and
mixed with a base of Alipus Mezcal aged in
refreshing Metal prepare the palate for the more
wooden barrels for a month before serving. With
powerful Fire and Wood, whilst Earth wraps the
hints of bitterness mingling alongside notes of
show up with a flavourful journey through earthy
lavender and citrus, the complex combination
notes of shiitake mushroom-infused plantation
further incorporates Olmeca Reposado and
rum. “If you taste the cocktails in the order of
Mancino Rosso, and a garnish of orange zest.
Water, Metal, Fire, Wood and Earth, you are
The new menu also includes cocktails inspired
going to have a taste of how these five distinct
by the elements of metal, water, fire and earth,
cocktails strike a perfect flavour balance,” says
serving guests a taste of the world from atop its
Oscar Mena, Ozone Bar Manager.
COCKTAIL
Wishful Negroni Seymour’s Parlour The Zetter Townhouse Marylebone LONDON
The Zetter Townhouse Marylebone has launched a new cocktail list in partnership with Matt Whiley and Rich Woods, owners of Hackneybased drinking den Scout, ranked 28 th in the World’s 50 Best Bars list. The innovative menu features ten house serves built around unusual ingredients prized for their therapeutic qualities, such as vetiver, yarrow and clary sage. Its theme, Potions and Punches, is inspired by the debauched travels of the property’s fictional proprietor Uncle Seymour, who decided to seek out a mystical answer to his ailments after overindulging at countless scandalous parties. Wishful Negroni combines healing ‘elf oil’ (a type of pine oil) with gin, blackberry-infused Campari, sweet vermouth, petitgrain oil and salted caramel to create a mouth-watering apéritif with an enjoyably fruity finish. It is served over a large ice cube stamped with The Zetter Townhouse logo in a thin and elegant Luigi Bormioli tumbler, accompanied by a fresh blackberry and seasonally changing garnish. “The fragrance is very oaky and pairs well with the sweetness of the blackberry,” says Bar Manager Nikolai Clerc, who reports that the stylish serve is currently Potions and Punches’ bestseller. “We used to sell a lot of traditional Martinis and Negronis, but this menu is definitely driving guests towards trying our house cocktails.”
The new magazine making waves in the hospitality industry‌ Starboard focuses on the design and development of cruise ships, river boats, sleeper trains and aeroplanes. Issue 3 coming soon. www.starboardmagazine.com
DRINKS
Original Tonic Sugar-Free Range Magnifique Brands In addition to reinventing its concept and reformulating several drinks, Original Tonic has launched several new flavours, and its sugarfree range now encompasses: Classic Zero, Citrus Zero and Berries Zero. Characterised by fine bubbles and subtle flavours that complement high-quality spirits, these tonic waters cleverly combine British sophistication with Mediterranean warmth. Classic Zero carries subtle notes of orange and lemon and delivers a soft citric aroma to a host of different serves; Citrus Zero offers upfront flavours of lime and Italian bergamot, along with touches of grapefruit and bitter orange; and Berries Zero possesses a soft and mild sweetness, culminating in a delicious finish characterised by ripe red fruit. Besides these sugar-free options, Original Tonic’s varied portfolio also features Classic, Citrus, Berries, Mint, Cherry, Yuzu, Açai and Ginger, and an elegant Ginger Beer.
www.theoriginaltonic.com
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Grand Millésime 2012 Gosset
Composed of 67% chardonnay and 33% pinot noir with an 8g dosage, Gosset’s Grand Millésime 2012 is a crisp and expressive vintage champagne characterised by upfront aromas of peach and pear. In the mouth, its lively opening notes are followed up by a fine palate of stone fruits, damson and mirabelle plum, with added hints of mouth-watering grapefruit. The lingering finish delivers a welcome burst of acidity, meanwhile, leaving the palate eager for a second taste. “Quality does not have to come with great age,” says Odilon de Varine, Gosset’s Cellar Master. “This is a fresh and elegant vintage in which chardonnay expresses itself fully.”
www.champagne-gosset.com
114
DRINKS
VSOP Cognac Camus Family-owned and operated for five generations, Camus makes its cognacs using a bespoke distillation process in which the heads are extracted and tasted litre by litre, before a small portion – highly concentrated in aromas – is reintegrated for a richer finish. Distinguished by the high level of terpinols resulting in unmatched floral scents, this VSOP features some of the best eaux-devie from the Borderies Cru; on the nose, it balances tannins and fresh notes, while on the palate, it showcases fruity flavours accompanied by hints of vanilla and spice. As part of Camus’ Craftmatch-Chefs & Bartenders program, in which a renowned cook and mixologist are brought together to create an innovative pairing using its cognacs, Michelin-starred Clément Bouvier teamed up with Thierry Malikian of Parisian drinking den Le Calbar. Bouvier created a recipe for Lavaret en Gravlax, marinating fish fillets in VSOP, while Malikian crafted the Smoky Igloo – a cocktail that mixes the cognac with homemade gingerbread syrup, dried betel leaf and ice cubes.
www.camus.fr
115
Highland Rye Arbikie Highland Estate
Multimillésime No.7 Cognac Frapin
Owned by the Stirling brothers, Arbikie has now unveiled Highland Rye, thought to be the first rye whisky distilled in Scotland for over 100 years. Laid down in 2015, the premium spirit combines Arantes rye, Odyssey malted barley and Viscount wheat – all grown on the family’s farm, honouring the brand’s field-to-bottle ethos. It was initially distilled in a copper pot, before being matured in first-fill charred American oak casks, and finished in Pedro Ximénez barrels with no colouring and no-chill filtration. Showcasing flavours of orange marmalade, cloves and maple-syrup, there are only 998 bottles to be sold worldwide, making it a truly rare and exclusive whisky.
A quite exceptional spirit, Multimillésime No.7 is the newest release from Cognac Frapin’s Trésors du Château collection. It combines three vintages, 1989, 1991 and 1993, chosen for their sensory potential and complementary characteristics. The cognac boasts a bright colour with golden highlights, and its bouquet initially shows floral qualities, followed by lime aromas, then fruity notes of orange, citrus and dried fig. On the palate, this aromatic depth is reflected by the delicious candied flavours of orange, apricot and vanilla that gradually melt into a subtlety and complexity typical of a Grande Champagne cognac distilled over the lees, before concluding with a long and persistent finish.
www.highlandryewhisky.com
116
www.cognac-frapin.com
DRINKS
Lemon & Leaf Rum Spirited Union Distillery
Rosé Lillet
Lemon & Leaf, created by Spirited Union Distillery in Amsterdam, is the world’s first botanical white rum. The spirit is the brand’s second expression after Spice & Sea Salt, and both explore the trend of using botanicals in distillation. An Agricole-style rum from Mauritius, Lemon & Leaf is made with lemons grown along the Amalfi Coast combined with blue eucalyptus leaves to create a pleasing balance of refreshing citrus and herbal characteristics. When fused with Sri Lankan highland black tea, the rum’s unique grassy notes produce a light and minty flavour profile, whilst the earthy tones of kina bark together with Sarawak pepper and sarsaparilla root round off the spirit with a complex and spicy finish.
Invented by two brothers in 1872 and now part of Pernod Ricard, Lillet has a longstanding reputation within the drinks industry for its carefully crafted flavour profile, and the Rosé displays a similar attention to detail. Created in the wine cellars of Podensac south of Bordeaux, this subtle apéritif is made by blending together a selection of elegant wines and fruit infusions. On the nose, it possesses light aromas of berries, orange blossom and grapefruit while, on the palate, the balanced structure complements its fresh, lively and fruity characteristics. An incredibly versatile product, it is ideally suited to use in long drinks, mixed into tonic or combined with champagne.
www.spirited-union.com
www.lillet.com
117
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EVENTS DIARY
10-11 NOV
12
NOV
13
NOV
18
NOV
HX New York www.thehotelexperience.com
Top Hotel World Tour New York www.thpworldtour.com
AHEAD MEA Dubai www.aheadawards.com
AHEAD Europe London www.aheadawards.com
19-20 NOV
12-14 JAN
17-21 JAN
7-11 FEB
Sleep & Eat London www.sleepandeatevent.com
Top Drawer London www.topdrawer.co.uk
Maison & Objet Paris www.maison-objet.com
Ambiente Frankfurt www.ambiente.messefrankfurt.com
11-13 FEB
3-5
MAR
3-6
MAR
13-17 MAR
GRIF Amsterdam www.grif.com
HRC London www.hrc.co.uk
Food&Hotel Asia Singapore www.foodnhotelasia.com
Internorga Hamburg www.internorga.com
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Top Drawer 8-10 September 2019 LONDON
The latest edition of Top Drawer, one of the
Director of Tara Bernerd & Partners, who
UK’s leading lifestyle and interiors trade shows,
worked on Il Pampero at the The Hari in London,
returned to Olympia London this September
explored the topic of indigenous design and the
– welcoming a strong roster of designers and
intersection between local culture and interiors,
exhibitors, including high-profile names in
while lauded furniture and tableware designer
tableware and kitchenware, alongside those from
Daniel Schofield took to the stage to discuss
the fashion, gift, wellbeing and retail sectors.
craft, creativity and blending contemporary
This three-day event boasts a distinctive edit
Alejandra Campos, Top Drawer Show Director,
carefully curated brands, giving visitors access
says: “The co-location with Pulse, which is
to a variety of launches as well as expert advice
known for presenting the next wave of design
and trend-led insights. Among those taking part
talent, made for the perfect complement to our
were the likes of Alessi, Amara, Barton Croft,
existing offering. With the union of the two
Clayspoon, Edit Juhasz Ceramics and Serax.
shows, visitors had, and will continue to have,
For the very first time, meanwhile, Top Drawer
the ability to explore the largest presentation
was co-located with Pulse, an event known for
of commercially ready emerging brands and
showcasing the next wave of design talent.
design, as well as the industry’s larger, more
Elsewhere, the Design Talks programme
recognised names.”
featured a host of panels and seminars seeking
The spring edition of Top Drawer will take
to stimulate debate and offer specialist analysis
place once again at Olympia London from 12-14
on the latest developments shaping the industry. For example, Michelle Hughes, Managing
120
aesthetics with traditional techniques.
of more than 1,000 design-led highlights from
January 2020.
www.topdrawer.co.uk
EVENTS
Sleep & Eat 18-19 November 2019 LONDON
© Wonderhatch
Sleep & Eat, Europe’s leading hotel design event, will return to Olympia London in November to explore the very latest developments in hospitality experience via curated conference, exhibition and concept room strands. Guided by this year’s theme of Social FlexAbility, each element of the show will consider the important issues surrounding digital disconnect in the modern age, and the power of hotels to pioneer spaces encouraging more social engagement. The 2019 installment will mark the first edition to combine the two key topics, sleeping and eating, through its conference strand, with this year’s programme curated by Supper Consulting Editor Heleri Rande. Free to attend, the food-focused discussions include a panel session with F&B leaders Lydia Forte, Group Director of F&B at Rocco Forte Hotels; Gustaf Pilebjer, Director of Food & Beverage for Europe at Marriott International; Karina Elias of The Langham; and Anurag Bali of Shangri-La International, as well a conversation on pushing the boundaries of F&B environments between Richard Coutts, Director, Baca Architects and Ben Fitzgerald, Operations Director, CoreMarine, both specialists in creating memorable hospitality experiences beneath the waves. “The keynotes and panels at this year’s conference reflect the brands, design studios, architectural practices, operators, astronauts, engineers, owners and leaders who are great examples of fostering meaningful connection as it pertains to hospitality,” Rande explains. “Whether the discussions are focused on design language, underwater architectural engineering, environmental responsibility, delivering hospitality in space, F&B concepts or
better and for worse. Our premise is that hoteliers, restaurateurs
daily operational management, they will all dance around the
and their designers can be in the vanguard of promoting the
same theme of facilitating human interaction.”
human interaction that has been lost by providing guests with
Elsewhere, as part of the annual Sets strand – comprising a
the chance to reconnect with others in person, or indeed connect
series of concept guestrooms and dining spaces created in line
with themselves. The challenge is to provide flexible spaces
with the show’s theme by leading design firms – Manchester-
where users can activate the social experience of their choice.”
based studio SpaceInvader will craft a bar with the intention
Last but not least, the Sleeper Bar – a dedicated space at the
of generating conversation, whilst Name Architecture is set to
heart of the exhibition floor for networking and relaxing – will
create a restaurant space focused on adaptable functionality
this year be designed by London and New York-based studio
by way of a table designed in a continuous plane that fosters
Michaelis Boyd; it will interpret Jean Giono’s short story The
social stimulation.
Man Who Planted Trees as a sustainable installation formed
Mark Gordon, Director of Sleep & Eat, notes: “Technology and social media have irrevocably changed the way we live, for
primarily of timber, where delegates will be able to pick up the latest issues of both Sleeper and Supper.
121
© André Farah
© Bernard N Khalil
122
SPOTLIGHT
Silver Service The journey of silverware producer Siom Orfèvres from the streets of Beirut to hotels of international standing is a tale of dedicated craft and unwavering attention to detail. Words: Jenna Campbell
I
n the heart of Lebanon’s capital lies the bustling
serveware, buffetware, serving trolleys, tea-
mixing stainless steel and glass as well as
district of Hamra, a neighbourhood which
making equipment and champagne accessories,
leather to provide a highly tailored service
embodies the city’s cultural transformation
Siom supplies a number of prestigious hotel
experience. “We have always been receptive
from provincial port to urbane metropolis. At
operators around the world including Marriot
to innovative propositions, trends and tastes,”
one time regarded as Beirut’s Champs-Élysées,
International, AccorHotels, Jumeirah Group and
reflects Baroud, who acknowledges the unique
the locality is also where the story of Siom
Rosewood Hotel Group. Its international success
advantage of being located on the threshold
Orfèvres – the largest producer of silverware in
and reputation are rooted in an unwavering
between east and west. “We consider that a
the Middle East – began more than fifty years
ethos of class, distinction and quality, married
great enrichment from which we can come up
ago. Founded in 1967 as a small shop making and
with an ability to adapt to clients’ changing
with new and creative designs for our products.”
selling limited ranges for fine dining and gifting,
requirements and tastes. “I believe what makes
From humble beginnings to its present
the business has grown exponentially to become
Siom products stand out from the competition
global reach, Siom Orfèvres has certainly come
a leading manufacturer of high-quality stainless
is first and foremost the craftmanship, coupled
a long way, and Baroud is confident that as
steel and silverware, supplying five-star hotels,
with the cutting-edge technology used in all
long as the luxury sector exists, so too will the
restaurants, the international hospitality sector
stages of production for each article,” notes
company. “Silverware will always have its place
and luxury retail markets, expanding to over 25
Baroud. “Secondly, but equally important, the
in the fine-dining sector as well as the hotels
countries around the world.
design of our products ranges from traditional
that pride themselves on the opulence of their
to modern elegance.”
service,” he concludes. “Silver is a pure and
The company’s hotel range is designed to cater to all tastes and lifestyles. “Whether classical
Throughout its history, Siom has continuously
or modern, oriental or royal, conventional
sought to embrace the latest technological
or contemporary, they are all imprinted by
advancements in order to cater towards both
know-how, taste and the finest quality,” notes
European and Middle Eastern markets; the
Antoine Baroud, a Managing Partner at Siom
expansion of its headquarters in the late 1990s
Orfèvres. Nowadays its head office is located
also facilitated a move to meet ISO 9001 quality
at a larger premises in Mazraat Yachouh, just
standards. But while its collections frequently
outside the capital, from where the business
showcase designs focusing on pure lines, soft
produces an expansive portfolio comprising
curves and virtuous shapes, the company
more than 3,000 items.
is keen not to tie itself down to a particular
With unique collections developed to meet
direction. Its flatware range, for example, gives
exquisite requirements, encompassing cutlery,
customers a choice of 18 different models,
noble material that will always signify luxury.”
www.siomorfevres.com
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PETITS FOURS
Calif Bonna Inspired by the colours of the Mediterranean, the Calif collection from Turkish tableware manufacturer Bonna has been designed to give optimum balance between durability and lightness, marrying amicably with interior decors while bringing a new identity and authenticity to the table. The series forms part of the brand’s wider Envisio range, a family of products that take cues from the blending of technological trends and traditional design styles, helping chefs deliver vibrant food presentations.
www.bonna.com.tr
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1. Induction Chafing Dish WNK
2. Drift Robert Welch
3. Buffet Tina Frey
4. Revolution Steelite International
Compatible with burners, electric heaters and induction cookers, the Induction Chafing Dishes by Hong Kong-based silverware manufacturer WNK feature a stable and durable hinge design that allows the lid to be placed in different stationary positions to minimise heat loss. The lid can also be removed easily for cleaning purposes, while an innovative water-return system built into the edge of the lid further prevents drips from falling onto the food, which can quickly ruin subtle flavours and textures. www.wnk-hk.com
Made from 18/10 stainless steel with a mirror finish, the Drift Coffee Pots by Robert Welch are classically proportioned with flowing shapes and handles. Available in one- and two-litre capacities, the containers boast a non-drip pouring action and keep coffee above 70°C for 45 minutes. To complement the series, Robert Welch has also launched the Drift Canape stand, a miniaturised version of the Drift Afternoon Tea stand that presents distinctive shapes when viewed at different angles. www.robertwelch.com
Tina Frey’s Buffet collection consists of risers, serving boards and cake stands in different heights and sizes, providing chefs with maximum flexibility when looking to plate up their unique culinary creations. Inspired by the idea of modern simplicity, the individual pieces within the range can be easily disassembled for flat storage and transport when not in use, while the addition of a variety of stylish colour options ensures the buffetware can comfortably meet the aesthetic requirements of various dining settings. www.tf.design
Launched to celebrate the art of glazing, the Revolution range from Steelite International uses specially formulated reactive glazes that change in colour and intensity depending on their application. They are also applied by hand using a revolving motion, meaning the path that the brush travels across each piece is evident in the fired result, making for a unique finish. On top of that, contrasting yet neutral colour tones of sandstone and granite blend together seamlessly to better showcase new culinary creations. www.steelite.com
PETITS FOURS
Saturn Vista Alegre Created by German designer Carsten Gollnick for Vista Alegre, the Saturn collection is inspired by traditional plates yet offers a strong sense of three-dimensionality thanks to its sculptural shape, rotational symmetry and elegantly rising sides. In developing the range, Gollnick continually challenged Vista Alegre to push the boundaries in the production of its porcelain, and the result – winner of the Tabletop category at German Design Awards 2019 – is certain to stimulate the creativity of chefs and elevate a broad array of gastronomic offerings.
www.hotelware.vistaalegre.com
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4.
1. Rocket Studio 1765
2. Professional Jura
3. Worldwide Kitchenware WMK Germany
4. Electric Lemon Lady and Butler
Designed by Amilios Grohmann in collaboration with Martin A. Koebke, the Rocket collection by Studio 1765 comprises wine and champagne coolers in a selection of finishes including copper, stainless steel and black. Combining cutting-edge design with functionality, practicality and style, the stackable coolers are available in floor-standing and tabletop versions with removable drip trays, enabling users to cater for a variety of different hospitality environments and interior decors. www.studio1765.com
Jura’s range of Professional coffee machines can serve between ten and 200 cups of coffee per day, including a selection of specialities from ristretto to cappuccino. The units come with innovative technology such as one-touch functionality, enabling users to make freshly ground coffee in minutes; Pulse Extraction Process, optimising extraction time and ensuring a delightful aroma; and bean hoppers, which boast holding capacities of between 500g and 1kg for extra preserving space. www.uk.jura.com
Taking its name from the abbreviation of Worldwide Manufacturing of Kitchenware, WMK offers a distinctive selection of products to cater for all aspects of the hospitality sector, from kitchenware, buffet equipment and tableware to bar equipment, food transport, machinery and cleaning items. With more than 45 years of experience in worldwide production and distribution, the brand designs and manufactures its collections in conformity with German standards of quality, based on exacting European regulations. www.wmk-global.com
Translating the architecture and interior design of Equinox Hotel at Hudson Yards in New York, Lady and Butler – the brainchild of Barcelona-born fashion designer Eli Caner, who runs the firm from the Big Apple – has created a series of sophisticated vestments for hospitality staffers at Electric Lemon, the property’s new seasonal American restaurant. The runway-worthy uniforms complement the creative direction of the 24th-floor terraced dining room, which is headed up by top restaurateur Stephen Starr. www.ladyandbutler.com
PETITS FOURS
Tense Ruby Fine2Dine Fine2Dine’s Tense Ruby collection features organic formed plates and bowls with uneven edges, which bring together a dark colour palette of ruby red and black tones for a handmade look, adding a whole new dimension to certain dishes. Carefully crafted in Portugal, the tableware is made from durable porcelain and fired at 1300°C to ensure zero water absorption, whilst a reactive glaze finish ensures every piece is utterly unique.
www.fine2dine.com
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L’Econome by Starck Degrenne Paris Created by visionary designer Philippe Starck, the L’Econome by Starck collection from Degrenne Paris comprises stackable and modular bowls and plates along with cutlery sets such as the multifunctional Acolytes, which helps save space. Combining practical crockery with a contemporary design and understated lines, on top of mixing enamelled and satin-like materials in a selection of pastel colours including yellow, pink, green, grey and white, the elegant range ensures that dishes stand out on the table. www.pro.degrenne.fr
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PETITS FOURS
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1. Coffee-To-Go Cups Dibbern
2. WMF Espresso WMF Coffee Machines
3. Aves Hepp
4. Presentation Stand Pordamsa
Supporting the drive towards reducing society’s reliance on single-use plastics, and in particular disposable cups that cannot be recycled due to their plastic coating, Dibbern’s environmentally friendly Coffee-To-Go Cups are made from high-quality fine bone china and feature BPA-free, non-toxic lids. Manufactured in Germany, the cups offer a durable, sustainable yet premium solution for those on the go, with a touch of luxury added in the form of vegetable tanned leather sleeves. www.dibbern.de
WMF’s Espresso range offers all the quality of a traditional portafilter machine – with a classic look and sensory cues like hissing, steaming and knocking – while at the same time delivering the simplicity and consistency of a fully automatic model. Recommended for venues with an average daily requirement of 300 cups, the machine features integrated grinders, automatic tamping and Dynamic Coffee Assist technology, which combine to guarantee versatility, usability and all-round performance. www.wmf-coffeemachines.com
Inspired by the contours of a bird’s wings, the Aves collection by Hepp features a spoon with a distinctly shaped bowl, as well as a fork that stands out thanks to an unusual ratio of tines to handle and a material thickness of nine millimetres. This dimension has also been implemented in the smaller cutlery pieces, such as the espresso and lemonade spoons. Meanwhile, the wider Aves line comprises 19 pieces and is available in polished stainless steel as well as other finishes upon request. www.hepp.de
Spanish porcelain manufacturer Pordamsa has introduced a new golden matte Presentation Stand, which is offered in two sizes that hold three plates of either 12cm or 20cm in diameter. Developed to offer chefs a more sophisticated solution from which to present petit fours or desserts, the stands come in three different finishes for added variety and can be combined with the brand’s Diana, Nordica and Crater tableware collections, the latter – seen here – taking inspiration from volcanic rock formations. www.pordamsa.com
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Temptaste Tafelstern Tafelstern has expanded its Temptaste collection with the launch of Season, a series of plates characterised by an understated, concrete aesthetic. Decorated with patterns of leaves in either metallic copper or metallic gold, the tableware marries well with urban dining settings and modern country styles alike. It can also be combined with various terracotta items from Tafelstern’s existing Playground range, as well as the brand’s new industrial-style Delight cups and black clay Stella plates.
www.tafelstern.com
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PETITS FOURS
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2.
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4.
1. NTE Dometic
2. LED Menu Tag Tiger
3. Commercial Juicer Sunkist Growers
4. Inverter Minibar Kleo
Dometic has upgraded two of its 20-litre class minibars with a new noiseless thermoelectric cooling unit (NTE). The models deliver significantly reduced electricity costs, consuming around three times less energy than absorption minibars of the same capacity. Users can choose between a solid door version with an A++ energy efficiency index or a glass door model with an A+ rating, with both featuring sensor-controlled LED interior lighting and a cut-out shelf for champagne bottles. www.dometic.com
Korean manufacturer Tiger has launched a new battery-operated LED Menu Tag, which can last a total of 30 hours in service following just six hours of charge. Available in seven colour options to meet the needs of various dining environments, the tags allow operators to write and erase the day’s menu easily using a neon pen. The product joins Tiger’s growing portfolio of buffetware, which includes modular systems, carving stations and heating lamps, chafing dishes, trolleys and presentation stands. www.tigerhotel.co.kr
The Commercial Juicer from Sunkist Growers comes with a high-powered operator that can extract up to 20 gallons of juice per hour using pre-cut fruit. Manufactured in the US, the heavy-duty 31-pound unit also features a unique metal oscillating strainer, allowing users to get the maximum juice out of each and every piece inserted. Meanwhile, the brand’s Pro Series Juicer, which boasts a smaller footprint at just 28cm tall and 20cm in diameter, is engineered to extract ten gallons of juice per hour. www.sunkistequipment.com
The result of two years’ research and development, Kleo’s Inverter Minibar by Kleo boasts A+++ energy consumption and low operating sound levels (between 26/29dBA), as well as high-quality inverter cooling technology (between +2C/+8C) and anti-icing thanks to auto defrosting. Equipped with replaceable and renewable parts, the units are available in 35-, 45- or 60-litre capacities, offering a choice of solid or glass doors and a reversible door direction, with colour options including black and white. www.minibar.com.tr
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PETITS FOURS
Vector H Alto-Shaam Alto-Shaam has released a new multimedia campaign and promotional materials to support the launch of its Vector H series of multi-cook ovens. A video highlights the innovative technology and high-quality design features of the equipment, while marketing collateral includes brochures, product catalogues and sell sheets in multiple languages. Both the video and collateral demonstrate how the compact and ventless countertop model is specifically designed for fast-food operations or any kitchen environment where space is at a premium. The campaign also focuses on AltoShaam’s most advanced control system yet, with easy to
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use technology that is intentionally simple and requires little to no operator training. For busy dining environments, the multi-cook ovens are able to produce a large volume and variety of different foods, with each rotisserie featuring up to four independent chambers. On top of that, operators can control the temperature, fan speed and cooking time of the chambers, allowing them to cook numerous items simultaneously with no flavour transfer, while Structured Air Technology further delivers optimised, focused heat to help chefs achieve greater consistency and food quality.
www.alto-shaam.com
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Subscribers benefit from: • Previews of the most exciting projects breaking ground • Reviews of new hotels opening worldwide • In-depth interviews with leading hoteliers, interior designers and architects • Coverage of exhibitions and conferences for the hotel industry • Exclusive updates of Sleeper’s events including AHEAD – the global awards for hospitality experience and design – and Sleepover – the inventive event for hotel innovators For more information please contact: subscriptions@mondiale.co.uk
ADVERTISING INDEX ISSUE 17
Aerts NV
041
Perrier-Jouët
AHEAD
124
Pordamsa
016
Alto-Shaam
069
Robert Welch
139
Ambiente
061
Rona
002
Bonna
039
Siom
045
Camus
099
Sleeper
136 112
008 & 009
CGA
118
Starboard
Champagne Gosset
101
Steelite
Cognac Frapin
111
Stölzle
025
Degrenne Paris
012
Sunkist
105
Dibbern
087
Tafelstern
015
Dometic
077
The Menu Store
051
FHA
108
Tiger
035
Gemini 1765
043
To The Table - Europe
092
Ice Cool Ltd
079
To The Table - MEA
135
John Jenkins
005
Top Drawer
083
107
Vista Alegre
140
Jura
006 & 007
Kleo Mini Bar
095
WMF
027
Lady and Butler
057
WMF Coffee
063
LSA
036
WMK
067
010 & 011
WNK
055
Zieher
019
Magnifique Brands Nude
033
137
WASHING-UP
Not so Vanilla Sky
A digital sky within La Concha’s Fifty Eight club in San Juan brings the outdoors inside.
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Some might say rooftop bars are too obvious
sending colourful patterns flowing across the
now, that their ubiquity has facilitated a fall from
space. Formed from hundreds of custom-made
grace roughly the same height as the buildings
light boxes, the scheme has been networked
they top. “Yes, that’s a nice rooftop bar you have
together with bespoke software that visualises
there,” guests will say. “And yes, I can indeed see
data through a mix of graphic design, algorithms
the sky tonight in all its glory – but what makes
and animation. During the day, it can be
you any different to that competing rooftop bar
programmed to create ambient patterns, whilst
across the way?”
sunset shades take over as darkness falls.
Maybe you implement a happy hour, drawing
After hours, the ceiling reacts to the live music
in the after-work crowd; maybe you commission
performances the club regularly hosts, linking
an artist to produce some Instagrammable
audio and visuals by serving up different levels
installations; or maybe you’re San Juan’s La
of intensity and pace.
Concha Resort and eschew the rooftop entirely whilst recreating the sky from digital cubes.
Whilst this novel approach could potentially encounter some resistance from rooftop purists,
In the depths of La Concha’s underused Fifty
Cactus has made sure to extend an olive branch to
Eight club, New York-based design firm Cactus
any doubters. Worry not, fresh-air enthusiasts;
has just unveiled Cubic Sky: a sculptural full-
the system can create enough drifting cloud
ceiling architectural installation capable of
visualisations to last your entire stay.
DESIGNED TO LAST A LIFETIME
For more information or samples contact us. Email: hospitality@robertwelch.com Telephone: +44 (0) 1386 840880
robertwelch.com/hospitality
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