Placer es...
Trotamundos
Sabores de
San Francisco
Flavors of San Francisco
este recorrido por la ciudad del Golden Gate se aleja de las
PUENTE
El Golden Gate es un ícono de la ciudad empezó su contrucción en 1935 y tuvo un costo de $35 millones de dólares. Debe su nombre al estrecho de Constantinopla llamado también La Puerta Dorada.
S
cable cars de las calles emblemáticas de San Francisco. Caminar
U
locales en la ciudad no resta un ápice de hostilidad a su estruc-
gastronómica. Fue así como llegué a Maru Sushi.
FUERZA DE ORIENTE población oriental en el mundo. En ella predomina la nacionalidad
japoneses. Estos últimos han creado algunos de los sitios favoritos para los comensales sanfranciscanos: los sushi bars. Maru Sushi es uno de los mejores representantes de estas barras: -
caja bento tos nigiris hechos al momento con pescado fresco. >>>
-
phill roads, downhill roads, and cable cars make out of Powell Street one of the most iconic ways in San Francisco. A walk on it can make anyone feel dizzy…and also hungry. And that’s the moment to find a good spot to eat. In the worst case, the frightened pedestrian will toy with the idea of leaving, a common mistake caused by the “passive-aggressive” nature of the street. Not even the fact of being the best summary of the splendid spots in the city lessens a bit its wavy hostility. Once the fear has been overcome, however, moving along the street is far easier, and then one can pay attention to its culinary offer. This is how I bumped into Maru Sushi.
ORIENTAL POWER San Francisco is one of the non-Asian cities with highest Asian population. Chinese descendants are prevalent—and Chinatown has plenty of eating options for you—but ethnic Thais and Japanese are also abundant. The latter have established some of the favorite places for San Franciscan diners: sushi bars. Placed on a dreadful slope in Powell Street, Maru Sushi is one of the finest sushi bars in town: on the outside it looks like a little pagoda, and on the inside it could not be any simpler…warm lights, >>>
noviembre 2013
65
Placer es...
Trotamundos
66
Bourbon & Branch
The Palace
Destacan
La recomendación es sentarse en la barra para ver cómo el
o bien la amable tibieza de un sake.
EN BUSCA DE ALGO DULCE Un verdadero glotón lo sabe: si bien se aprecia hacer una comida
unpretentious decoration. It seems to be a Japanese restaurant just like any other, but fortunately it is but like any other. Maru is perfect for a light and delicious meal, such as a bento box or a roll, but its specialty is serving exquisite fresh-fish nigiris done while-you-wait. Maguro—tuna—, Sake—salmon—, and Ika—squib—are outstanding, but if you press me to choose I will favor Uni—sea urchin—; undoubtedly, it is one of the best nigiris you will ever have. I suggest you to sit on the bar and watch how the master behind it finely slices the fish to make this dish, while enjoying an ice-cold Sapporo beer or the gentle warmness of sake.
FOR THOSE WITH A SWEET TOOTH obtienen. Por eso el postre no será tempura helado sino un vinito
pales puntos de distribución de la otra gran pasión de Coppola: sus
estando ahí lo mejor es animarse a una degustación de su reserva cen los personajes de sus películas: imposible de rechazar.
CALIFORNIA DE LUJO
A true gourmand knows it: while having a full meal in one single spot is appreciated, jumping from restaurant to restaurant is a fascinating activity. It is like a game, or even better, a sport where the more places you know, the higher score you get. That is why the dessert will not be an ice cream tempura but a late-harvest, very sweet wine at Café Zoetrope, property of the moviemaker Francis Ford Coppola, no less.The name of the site is a clear reference to Coppola’s producer firm, American Zoetrope. So, those who are aware of the director’s bio will immediately know that the restaurant at the ground floor of Sentinel building—a landmark in the North Beach area—is not only an European-style café with Italian menu, but a main outlet of Coppola’s other great passion: the wines he produces in Napa Valley. Of course, you can choose a wine and enjoy it as a dessert, but you are already there, so why not having a sampler of the house special reserve: three cups for 18 dollars. A deal, as a well-known character in Coppola’s movies said: impossible to reject.
THE POSH SIDE OF CALIFORNIA
sensación de paz inmediata.
If you want to indulge all your senses, not just the taste, you should try Coi. This two Michelin starred restaurant, ranked 58 in the San Pellegrino World’s Best Restaurants list, will give you an immediate sense of peace—right upon entering.
VARIEDAD
Las calles de San Francisco están llenas de opciones culinarias para los paladares más exigentes y aventureros.
Placer es...
Trotamundos
It could be the dimly lit tables, the perfect music volume for a nice conversation, or could be it all, along with the eight-course taster menu, but hours fly quickly in here. At least four hours are needed to enjoy the full experience, aside from a previous reservation and sharp punctuality. It would be ideal to start with a cup of champagne to get into the mood…and then to have a complimentary snack from the chef: a delicious surprise every single time! Aside from the number of dishes, not much can be said in advance about Coi’s menu, since it changes every week according to ingredient availability. However, if you are lucky enough any of the courses will serve lamb. No matter how the chef caters the lamb, it will be a delicacy; but if cooked with chard and rosemary, it will be a trip to heaven...and back! Coi, with its scrumptious recipes and superb ambiance, has had such a big success that writer Daniel Patterson recently presented his book, Coi: Stories and Recipes (Phaidon), in which he tells the story of the restaurant and deepens into their successful concept of merging modern cuisine and local ingredients. Anyone who has attended Coi should not miss this book.
Wilson & Wilson
TIME TO START AGAIN After a whole day of memorable meals, it is time to start over. And since we keep—literally—searching for our daily bread, why not doing it in the most glamorous site? It is, of course, the Garden Court at The Palace, one of the oldest and most luxurious hotels in San Francisco. This is not an ordinary restaurant: dining here is almost like spending time in a palace. San Francisco inhabitants are very fond to this place, and link it to special celebrations; of course, this grants the spot an additional appeal. In the morning, a good coffee, Eggs Benedict, and a Mimosa served under the chandeliers and the magnificent dome that covers the hall will be enough to start the day off right.
llegar puntual. Lo ideal es iniciar con una copita de champaña para entrar en el mood depara una deliciosa sorpresa. éstos cambian cada semana según la
THE FARMERS MARKET -
If there is a place to find a good meal in San Francisco, it is The Ferry Building Marketplace, the market at The Embarcadero. Every store in there sells the best food products from local farmers: fruits, vegetables, bread, tempting cheeses…and the best: oysters of any kind
and Recipes historia del restaurante profundiza en su exitosa fórmula de hacer el restaurante no deben perderse esta publicación.
SIEMPRE HAY QUE VOLVER A EMPEZAR empezar. Y como literalmente nunca dejamos de buscar el pan de
lujosos de San Francisco. como comer en un palacio. Es entrañable para los habitantes de
>>>
noviembre 2013
67
Placer es...
Trotamundos
68
EL MERCADO DE LOS GRANJEROS
and at any time in Hog Island Oysters, a corner awaiting for you at the end of the noisy market. While it is true that you will have to stand in the line for about 40 minutes before you can have a seat, the wait is worth it, absolutely. Cultured in a hatchery in Marshall, California, all oysters served here are nearly perfect. You will always find oysters from all over the world, each type showing a distinctive flavor. Thus, it is better to
é
DELICIA
briendo las diferencias gustativas entre cada especie. Si es un día
Una gran opción en Mission Distric es el Bar Tartine donde encontrarás un extenso menú de emparedados.
clam chowder, crema de almejas típica de San
CAE EL SOL perímetro. Lo nuevo en San Francisco se encuentra en Mission donde el entretenimiento nunca está a más de un paso.
Bar Tartine
order an assorted tray, and discover the subtle taste differences in the oyster species.
el dip
acompañarse de galletas con semillas tostadas.
In a sunny day you should also order a bottle of sparkling rosé or a clam chowder, a thickened shellfish soup typical from San Francisco; it is a specialty of this restaurant, and it is far better than any other you could find around the harbor area.
es un
AFTER THE SUNSET
con
Now let us leave the known places: no more Union Square and its surrounding area. The newest scene in San Francisco is Mission >>>
01 ¿QUÉ Y DÓNDE? What and Where?
01 DÓNDE COMER / WHERE TO EAT: Maru Sushi. 529 Powell Street. Café Zoetrope. 916 Kearny Street. cafecoppola.com Coi. 373 Broadway. coirestaurant.com The Garden Court. Dentro de The Palace Hotel. Hog Island Oysters. The Ferry Building Marketplace. 1 Sausalito. hogislandoysters.com
02
DÓNDE TOMAR / WHERE TO DRINK: Bar Tartine. 561 Valencia Street. bartartine.com Wilson and Wilson, Private Detective Agency. Jones 505. bourbonandbranch.com The Library. bourbonandbranch.com
03 DÓNDE DORMIR / WHERE TO SLEEP: The Palace Hotel. 2 New Montgomery. sfpalace.com
FOTOS COI: MAREN CARUSO
Placer es...
Trotamundos
Bar Coi
Bar Tartine
FIESTA EN LA BIBLIOTECA speakeasies
-
-
>>> Bar Coi
noviembre 2013
Placer es...
Trotamundos
70
The Library
District, a recently gentrified neighborhood where fun is never far away. You will find little gems everywhere: design stores, boutiques, cozy cafés, bars, and small oases like Bar Tartine. Simple and elegant, it is much loved by the locals. You will always find something remarkable in its menu; for instance, pistachio dip is outstanding: a taste that seems familiar at first, but soon you find an uncommon texture, rough and soft at the same time, a true pleasure for your taste buds. Of course, you have to take it with roasted-seed crackers. All dishes are healthy and all of them are hot off the griddle; the open sandwich is a must: roast beef, salmon…and remember, have it with a sip of wine to start predrinking and let the night begin.
PARTY AT THE LIBRARY
menú de cocteles clásicos (casi todos inspirados en las recetas de
After priming the pumps at the Tartine, it would be a good thing looking for some more “noise” in Jones Street, where you will find bars for any taste. Stand out the speakeasies set by Bourbon & Branch Group; these are the top-notch cocktail bars in the city. You could go to Wilson and Wilson, Private Detective Agency. It is one of the hottest spots at Jones St., and you will need to reserve at least two weeks in advance (space is very limited). Otherwise, you could venture to find a seat in The Library, where—by the way—you will be required a watchword to enter; of course, we will give it to you: it is BOOKS. Just say that word and let the magic start. The place looks like the aisle of a genuinely old library. Among high bookshelves you will find a well-equipped bar, where a couple of mixologists will prepare any drink you may want. There is a menu with classic cocktails (mostly inspired in drinks from the Prohibition era), but it would be better to say what tickles your fancy: sweet, bitter, citrus, fruity…they will hit the spot and tailor the perfect cocktail for you. All you have to do is be willing for surprises to happen, and let the Frisco-style party goes on and on…
NIGHT LIFE
Se podría decir que esta ciudad no duerme, hay opciones para que te diviertas toda la noche, Uno de los bares para empezar tu recorrido debe ser The Library.