CLIMBING IN EL OSO by monoelemento
monoelemento
CLIMBING IN EL OSO
The project During the Project “Alpinist 2010-2013� by the Alpine Club South Tyrol a group of young alpinist climbed a few new routes on the Auyantepuy. This tepui plateau, located in the Gran Sabana of Venezuela is quite difficult to reach but offers high quality climbing possibilities. During the February of 2012 the team of the Alpine Club opened together with Helmut Gargitter, Ivan Calderon and Bernd Arnold some twenty routes between one and five pitches, ranging between the difficulties 5c and 7c. The routes are all located around the Camp el Oso, on the plateau of the Auyantepui. More information on the Alpine Club South Tyrol: http://www.alpenverein.it The rock The plateau on top of the Auyantepui is disseminated with boulders of all sizes. The variety ranges between some small boulders and hundred and fifty meters high rocks. The quartz-sediment stone can be found in different qualities, but fortunately in most cases and especially around Camp el Oso it is perfect. There is only a very small chance of stonefall since the quality of the rock is very good and so there are virtually no lose stones on the climbs. The quality depends mainly on the percentage of quartz contained in the stone. Generally the lighter the color the better it holds. Caution is necessary with the natural anchor points since they tend to hold less than the equivalemnts in limestone.
Climbing in el Oso
Auyantepui
Philosophy Apart from some sport routes the routes were all climbed in traditional alpine style. There were used almost only friends and slings. Only in the most difficult parts of the climbs and in the worst belay stances bolts were used. We used 8x10 INOX expansion bolts and were most carefull in placing them. Getting there The usual way to get to the Auyantepui is by plane from Ciudad Bolivar. The trek starts from the airstrip at the Camp Uruyen. The Camp el Oso on the plateau on top of the tepui is reached in three to four days of walking. The trek continues to the Angel falls. The path to Camp el Oso is well-worn aldough it’s rare to encounter other groups. The path is very muddy and especially the last day quite steep. The most difficult parts over big stones are equipped with ropes. From Camp el Oso all the routes can be reached in half an hour of walking. They are reached by a very bad path that leads over and under rocks and is almost an adventure to itself. First expedition Before us Freddy la Frada, Borja Araque and Alfredo Angel opened a few routes around Camp el Oso in the May of 2010. Their routes are also described in the following topo. More info on: www.climtepuyes.com
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ROUTES
The routes were graded with the french system, some have not been repeated and the grades are therefore to be seen as provisional. The grade describes the most difficult part in the pitch, which is usually quite short, apart from the more difficult pitches above 7a, which usually are continuosly hard. The routes are alpine trad routes, this means that experience in the use of mobile belaying devices is absolutely necessary. In the hardest parts, where no clean belaying was possible the minimum quantity of bolts was used. The same goes for the belaying stances. Addicionally it was tried to grade the “seriousness� of the routes: E1 describes short sport climbing routes, fully equipped with bolts. E2 describes multi-pitch routes, which are easy to belay. In most cases a fall will remain without consequences. E3 describes a route with alpine character that offers good belaying possibilities, aldough it can be difficult to place them and falls can have serious consequences. E4 describes a route with alpine character, hard to belay, only for experienced climbers with mental strenght. A fall will have serious consequences. Gear All routes can be climbed with a normal alpine equipment (NAA), this consists of a full set of friends with some of the smaller numbers and a good selection of slings. These are especially usefull on corner pitches and in the easier routes, be sure to bring also some long slings. There is not much use for nails.
Climbing in el Oso
o View from Camp el Os
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SECTOR: L A L U N A 5. 1.
Pitch 4: 30m, 6a, 2 bolts, stance at bolts + Friend
Name: Jou
Name: Indiana Jones
First ascent: February 2012, Kopfsguter Andreas, Peter Stuefer
Lenght:: 40m, 1 Pitch Difficulty: 6a Seriousness: E2
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Start: As „Kopfi“ then following the crack straight ahead to the abseiling stance Descent: Along Route
Lenght: 120m, 3 Pitches Difficulty: 7b+ A1 Seriousness: E2 Start: In the middle of the wall at the bolt Descent: Over the route Pitch 1: 35m, 7b+, 5 bolts + Friends, stance on bolt Pitch 2: 40m, 7b A1, fully equipped with bolts, stance at two bolts Pitch 3: 40m, 5c, 1 bolt + NAA, stance at rock head First ascent: 13 February 2012, Thomas Hochkofler, Andreas Gschleier 2. Name: Halbmond Lenght: 130m, 4 Pitches Difficulty: 6c+ Seriousness: E4 Start: Crack left of Blitzriss Descent: First along the corner then along the route Pitch 1: 35m, 5a, NAA, long crack, stance at two bolts Pitch 2: 35m, 6a+, two bolts + NAA, chimney and then right over the corner, stance at two bolts Pitch 3: Option 1: 30m, 6c+, 4 bolts + NAA, stance at rock ring 5m over the abseil stance Option 2: 30m, 6a+, 5 bolts + NAA, stance at rock ring 5m over the abseil stance
Climbing in el Oso
Name: Blitzriss (Start option of Halbmond) Lenght: 40m, 1 Pitch Difficulty: 5b Seriousness: E2 Start: At the beginning of the lightning crack Descent: Along the route Pitch 1: 40m, 5b, NAA, stance at two bolts First ascent: February 2012, Kopfsguter Andreas, Peter Stuefer 4. Name: Kopfi Lenght: 40m, 1 Pitch Difficulty: 6a Seriousness: E2 Start: Over plate then along the crack Descent: Along route Pitch 1: 40m, 6a, 2 bolts + NAA First ascent: February 2012, Kopfsguter Andreas
Pitch 1: 40m, 6a, 2 bolts + NAA First ascent: February 2012, Peter Stuefer
6. Name: Flachgelegt Lenght: 125m, 4 Pitches Difficulty: 6c+ Seriousness: E2 Start: Crack at the corner to the right Descent: Over the route Halbmond Pitch 1: 30m, 6c, 2 bolts + NAA, stance at two bolts Pitch 2: 15m, 6c+, 1 bolt + NAA, stance at rock head + crack Pitch 3: 45m, 6a, NAA, following the corner, stance at two bolts Pitch 4: 35m, 5c+, NAA, right to the corner and end over the route „Halbmond“, stance at 2 bolts First ascent: 15. February 2012, Peter Stuefer, Kopfsguter Andreas
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SECTOR: E U L A L I A 7.
9.
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Name: Hochstart
Name: Mis primeros pasos limpios
Name: Eulalia
Lenght: 35m, 1 Pitch Difficulty: 6c Seriousness: E2
Lenght: 50m, 2 Pitches Difficulty: 5c Seriousness: E2
Lenght: 90m, 3 Pitches Difficulty: 7a Seriousness: E3
Start: Left at the bolt, crack over the boulder Descent: Along route or abseil track A to the right
Start: Right of the route „Gedenkweg 2012“, following the chimnes to the right Descent: Abseil track A, 2 times 30m
Start: At the crack Descent: Abseil track A, 2 times 30m
Pitch 1: 35m, 6c, some bolts + Friends First ascent: February 2012, Bernd Arnold, Margaret Zimmermann
Pitch 1: 15m, 5a, NAA, stance at rock ring + Friend Pitch 2: 35m, 5c, NAA, to the right to the watermarks and straight up to the abseil stance First ascent: 7. February 2012, Iris Oberkalmsteiner, Maria Graber
Pitch 1: 30m, 6b+, 3 bolts + NAA, stance at bolts Pitch 2: 40m, 7a, 1 bolt + NAA, stance at bolts Pitch 3: 20m, 5b, NAA, stance at Rock head First ascent: 8. February 2012, Thomas Hochkofler, Andreas Gschleier 12.
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Name: Mangiatripas
Name: Gedenkweg 2012
Name: Yetiatö
Lenght:: 35m, 1 Pitch Difficulty: 6b Seriousness: Sport route E1
Lenght: 60m, 2 Pitches Difficulty: 5c Seriousness: E2
Lenght: 80m, 3 Pitches Difficulty: 7c Seriousness: E2
Start: Left of route „Hochstart“ Descent: Along route or abseil track A to the right
Start: Right of route „Mis primeros pasos limpios“ Descent: Abseil track A, 2 times 30m
Pitch 1: 35m, 6b, fully equipped with bolts
Pitch 1: 30m, 5c, 2 bolts + NAA, to the right Pitch 2: 30m, 5c, NAA, straight up
First ascent: February 2012, Bernd Arnold, Margaret Zimmermann
Climbing in el Oso
First ascent: February 2012, Margaret Zimmermann, Bernd Arnold
Start: Right of the route „Eulalia“ Descent: Over route or abseil track A, 2 times 30m Pitch 1: 7c, 7 bolts + NAA, stance at bolts Pitch 2: 7b+, 2 bolts + NAA, stance at bolts Pitch 3: 6b, 1 bolt + NAA, stance at bolts First ascent: February 2012, Helmut Gargitter, Ivan Calderón
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SECTOR: E U L A L I A 13. Name: Un poco loco Lenght: 90m, 3 Pitches Difficulty: 7b Seriousness: E3 Start: Right of the route „Mangiatripas“ Pitch 1: 7b, 4 bolts + NAA, stance at bolts Pitch 2: 7a+, 3 bolts + NAA, stance at bolts Pitch 3: 6b, NAA, stance at bolt Descent: Abseil track A, 2 times 30m First ascent: February 2012, Helmut Gargitter, Ivan Calderón
Pitch 3: 40m, 5c, NAA, following the left corner, stance at bolt + sling Pitch 4: 20m, 6a, NAA, following corner, stance at a rock head Descent: Abseil track A, 2 times 30m First ascent: 7. February 2012, Andreas Baur, Luca De Giorgi 15. Name: Anfang und Ende Lenght: 125m, 5 Pitches Difficulty: 6a+ Seriousness: E3 Start: In the middle of the wall, at the bolt
14. Name: Tío zorro Lenght: 120m, 2 Pitches Difficulty: 6a+ Seriousness: E2 Start: At the very beginning of the corner Pitch 1: 45m, 6a+, NAA, following the corner, stance at Friend + sling under the big stone Pitch 2: 15m, 5a, NAA, over the stone to the beginning of the left corner
Climbing in el Oso
Pitch 1: 30m, 6a, 1 bolt + NAA, follow crack then to the right, stance with Friends and a rock head Pitch 2: 20m, 5c, NAA, until the top of the pillor, stance at a rock head Pitch 3: 30m, 5c, NAA, following right corner, stance at Friends Pitch 4: 20m, 5a, NAA, until top of the pillor stance at rock head Pitch 5: 25m, 6a+, 2 bolts + NAA, stance at rock head Descent: Abseil track A, 2 times 30m First ascent: 8. February 2012, Kopfsguter Andreas, Peter Stuefer
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SECTOR: C A R A D E I N D I O 16.
18.
Lenght: 100m, 3 Pitches Difficulty: 7b+ Seriousness: E2
Pitch 2: 35m, 6a, 1 bolt + NAA, following the corner stance at bolted abseil stance Pitch 4: 20m, 5a, NAA, connection pitch, stance at Friends at the beginning of next wall Pitch 5: 25m, 6a, NAA, to the left under the rose wall and then to the right again under the roof, stance at rock head
Start: At the crack under the right eye Descent: Abseil track B, 2 times 35m
First ascent: 10. February 2012, Luca De Giorgi, Andreas Baur, Iris Oberkalmsteiner, Maria Graber
Start: At the big rock in front of the Cara de Indio, at the diagonal crack, bolt
Name: Cara de Indio
Pitch 1: 30m, 6c+, 1 bolt + NAA, stance at bolt + Friend Pitch 2: 25m, 7b+, 4 bolts + NAA, under the eye to the left and then over the nose, stance at bolts Pitch 3: 45m, 6b, 1 bolt + NAA, keeping to the left, stance at a rock head
Name: Morgel Lenght: 80m, 2-4 Pitches Difficulty: 6c+ Seriousness: E3
Route: Some bolts + NAA Descent: Abseil over the route, 2 times 35m First ascent: February 2012, Bernd Arnold, Margaret Zimmermann
First ascent: 10. February 2012, Thomas Hochkofler, Andreas Gschleier 17a. Name: Cantando en la tempestad Lenght: 115m, 5 Pitches Difficulty: 6a+ Seriousness: E2 Start: At the beginning of the corner, bolt Descent: Abseil track B, 2 times 35m Pitch 1: 15m, 6a+, 1 bolt + NAA, stance at bolt Pitch 2: 20m, 6a, NAA, over two small roofs, stance at bolted abseil stance
Climbing in el Oso
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17b. Name: La conquista del Oso Lenght: 100m, 3 Pitches Difficulty: V+ Seriousness: E3 Start: At the crack under the right eye Descent: Abseil track B, 2 times 35m Route: NAA + Aliens First ascent: 11. May 2010, Freddy Espinoza, Borja Araque, Alfredo Angel
17b B
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SECTOR: P I E D R A G R A N D E 19.
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25.
Name: Without name
Name: Without name
Name: Ta pipa!
Name: Melangia
Lenght: 20m Difficulty: 5c Seriousness: Sport route E1
Lenght: 25m Difficulty: 6a Seriousness: Sport route E1
Lenght: 30m Difficulty: V+ Seriousness: E2
Lenght: 15m Difficulty: 6a+ Seriousness: E2
Start: On the big stone, left of „Sexo salvaje“
Start: On the big stone, east side
First ascent: May 2010
First ascent: May 2010
Start: On the big stone, south side Route: NAA, stance at bolt
Start: On the big stone, south side Route: NAA, stance at bolt
Fisrt ascent 9. May 2010, Kevin Oronoz, Freddy Espinoza
First ascent: 10. May 2010, Borja Araque
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Name: Sexo salvaje
Name: Bacube Americana
Name: Klein aber fein
Name: Por Lara
Lenght: 15m Difficulty: 6c+ Seriousness: Sport route E1
Lenght: 20m Difficulty: V+ Seriousness: E2
Lenght: 20m Difficulty: 6b Seriousness: Sport route E1
Lenght: 20m Difficulty: 6c Seriousness: E2
Start: On the big stone, east side
Start: On the big stone, south side Route: NAA, stance at bolt
Start: On the big stone, south side
Start: On the big stone, south side Route: NAA, stance at bolt
First ascent: 15. February 2012, Luca De Giorgi
Climbing in el Oso
First ascent: 9. May 2010, Borja Araque
First ascent: February 2012, Margaret Zimmermann, Bernd Arnold
First ascent: 15. February 2012, Luca De Giorgi
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Name: Without name 19. Lenght: 25m Name: Without name Difficulty: 6a
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INFO THANKS
TO CLIMBERS
Many thanks to all those who made this project possible and climbed with us. Special thanks go to Helli, Ivan and Stoan.
We will be happy to answer any question about climbing in el Oso and would love to recieve feedback about the repetitions of our routes.
Many thanks also to the Alpine Club South Tyrol and to our sponsors: Vaude, Meindl and Edelrid. CONTACT _Editor: monoelemento _Contact: monoelemento@gmail.com _Site: http://monoelemento.blogspot.com/ _Alpenverein Südirol: http://www.alpenverein.it/ _Project “Alpinist 2010-2013“: http://www.alpenverein.it/de/kletterer-alpinisten/ alpin/alpinist2010-2013-kletterexpedition-venezuela-129_8016_144236.html DISCLAIMER The author reserves the right not to be responsible for the topicality, correctness, completeness or quality of the information provided. Liability claims regarding damage caused by the use of any information provided, including any kind of information which is incomplete or incorrect,will therefore be rejected. Creative Commons License Climbing in el Oso by Monoelemento is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Unported License.
Climbing in el Oso
From left to right: Helli, Jou, Kopfi, Andr, Iris, Luca, Tom, Andi and Maria.