CD Magazine, Fall 2023 (Costume Designers Guild)

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FALL 2023 THE COSTUME DESIGNERS GUILD LOCAL 892

OUTSTANDING COMEDY SERIES

OUTSTANDING CONTEMPORARY COSTUMES

COLLEEN ATWOOD

BRILLIANT ON EVERY LEVEL . ”

“COLLEEN ATWOOD CRAFTS BLOODY PERFECT

‘WEDNESDAY ’ LOOKS.”

EMMY®AWARD NOMINATIONS COSTUME DESIGNERS GUILD AWARDS
ATWOOD EXCELLENCE IN CONTEMPORARY TELEVISION WINNER FYC.NETFLIX.COM
COLLEEN
VOL. 18 Issue 4 UNION President Executive Director Labor Report 8 11 12 FEATURED Unveiling DIVA at the V&A 75th Emmy Nominations Solidarity Poster 14 18 26 Comic-Con Where’s the Beef The Design of Wellness Flat Plat: Arefeh Mansouri 30 34 40 44 IN FOCUS The Godfather Exhibit at the Academy 48
TheGodfather.Photo: Courtesy of Paramount Pictures Exhibition Photos: Courtesy of the V&A South Kensington

COMMUNICATIONS & CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Anna Wyckoff awyckoff@cdgia.com

CREATIVE DIRECTORS

Allana Johnson allana@yokcreative.com

Turner Johnson turner@yokcreative.com

MANAGING EDITOR

Gary V. Foss garyvictorfoss@gmail.com

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Bonnie Nipar bnipar@cdgia.com

PRESIDENT

Terry Gordon tgordon@cdgia.com

VICE PRESIDENT

Ivy Thaide Ithaide@cdgia.com

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

Brigitta Romanov bromanov@cdgia.com

ASSISTANT EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

Doug Boney dboney@cdgia.com

MEMBER SERVICES DIRECTOR

Suzanne Huntington shuntington@cdgia.com

MARKETING & EVENTS DIRECTOR

Demetra Stavrakas dstavrakas@cdgia.com

SECRETARY

Kristin Ingram kingram@cdgia.com

TREASURER

Nanrose Buchman nbuchman@cdgia.com

EXECUTIVE BOARD

Catherine Adair cadair@cdgia.com

Phillip Boutté pboutte@cdgia.com

Salvador Perez sperez@cdgia.com

Nancy Steiner nsteiner@cdgia.com

ACD REPRESENTATIVE

David Matwijkow dmatwijkow@cdgia.com

COSTUME ILLUSTRATOR REPRESENTATIVE

Oksana Nedavniaya onedavniay@cdgia.com

LABOR REPRESENTATIVE

Dana Woods dwoods@cdgia.com

BOARD ALTERNATES

Michelle R. Cole mcole@cdgia.com

Julie Weiss jweiss@cdgia.com

Daniel Selon dselon@cdgia.com

Ami Goodheart agoodheart@cdgia.com

BOARD OF TRUSTEES

Cliff Chally cchally@cdgia.com

Jacqueline SaintAnne jsaintanne@cdgia.com

Barbara Inglehart binglehart@cdgia.com

Mikael Sharafyan msharafyan@cdgia.com

EXECUTIVE SPECIALIST

Kristin Ingram kingram@cdgia.com

BOOKKEEPER

Aja Davis adavis@cdgia.com

ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT

Natalie Gallegos ngallegos@cdgia.com

PUBLISHER

Moontide www.moontide.agency

ADVERTISING

Ken Rose 818.312.6880

KenRose@mac.com

COVER

At the picket line (L to R ): Ivy Thaide, Doug Boney, David Matwijkow, Brigitta Romanov, Terry Gordon, Oksana Nedaviaya. Photographed by Nicola Goode

6 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023
Associate Editor Communications & Creative Director Anna Wyckoff Allana Johnson Turner Johnson Gary V. Foss Bonnie Nipar Stacy Ellen Rich Contributor
Ivy Thaide Contributor 7
Creative Director Managing Editor Creative Director

It’s Emmy time again! We wish our CDG designers and teams the very best for a successful awards season. Final voting begins August 17 and ends August 28. Unfortunately, FIDM’s beloved Annual Emmy Television Costume exhibit will not be held this year. We hope to have an opportunity to celebrate the CDG nominees, if circumstances permit.

Congratulations to Jazz Tangcay for her well-deserved LA Press Club first place prize for her Variety magazine article highlighting the pay inequity costume designers face. Jazz has been an ardent supporter of our campaign, and we’re thrilled her article was recognized by her peers for reporting excellence.

Please give special recognition to our Pay Equity Committee, whose five-year campaign has become a formidable powerhouse. Take a moment to thank these driven volunteers who work fervently for all of us: cochairs Danielle Launzel and Ariyela Wald-Cohain, who have been tireless in their efforts; and Steering Committee members Nancy Steiner (who created the hashtag #nakedwithoutus), Daniel Selon, and Whitney Anne Adams. We continue to charge ahead with an ongoing “Next Steps” Advisory Board following our recent successful Pay Equity panel held at UCLA’s Anderson School of Management with the David C. Copley Center for the Study of Costume Design.

Comic-Con was another huge success thanks to our driven volunteer committee, who secured our presence at this mega event. Thank you to chairs Ivy Thaide, Kristin Ingram, Jen Hancock, and the committee members Samantha Kuester and Laura Brody, Events Director Demetra Stavrakas, and all of the volunteers. I’m happy to say my summer Academy intern, Cassandra Sisson, also joined the team.

July’s Movie Night was a wonderful evening celebrating our award namesake, Adrian. Adrian-designed films Queen Christina starring Greta Garbo and the iconic The Women were presented by Mikael Sharafyan and Jennifer Soulages. Original cast member Cora Sue Collins joined us. Now in her 90s, she was five when chosen by Garbo to play the young Queen Christina. Along with Cora Sue’s memories—of the film, of Adrian, and of working in the Golden Age of Hollywood—the fascinating evening also featured a costume exhibit with loans from Larry McQueen’s Film Costume Collection, Shon LeBlanc’s The Costume House, and Greg Schreiner’s collection. Prints, photos, and posters completed the exhibit. A great time was had by all. Special thanks to our very generous sponsor, Gianni. The evening was filmed and will be available for viewing soon on our website.

Our Legacy Committee is planning a lovely long-awaited luncheon honoring our retirees. Come celebrate this fascinating group. This committee is always open for help with outreach to our retired members.

And join a picket line! We need solidarity!

Terry Ann Gordon

8 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023
Photo: Kelly Serfoss
FYC.NETFLIX.COM outstanding period costumes
EMMY® AWARD NOMINATIONS 3 INCLUD ING
Lyn Elizabeth Paolo • Laura Frecon • Alex Locke • Jovana Gos pavic
“STUNNING
THEWRAP
“THE COSTUMES ARE GORGEOUS.”
PERIOD
COSTUMES, bustled up and dripping with jewels.”

Dear Members,

Throughout history, the labor movement has proven repeatedly that collective action is the most formidable force for change. Today the Writers Guild of America (WGA) and Screen Actors Guild—American Federation of Television and Radio Artists (SAG-AFTRA) take a courageous stand for their rights. Even though our members are suffering, it is vital for the International Alliance of Theatrical Stage Employees (IATSE) to rally in support.

The power of any industry is its workers. As creatives behind the camera, we pour our hearts into our craft, bringing entertainment and inspiration to millions. Yet our contributions are often undervalued, our rights undermined, and our voices stifled. Together, WGA and SAG-AFTRA voted to strike, making a bold call for respect, fair pay, and creative control. This moment is an opportunity for us to display solidarity and a chance to strengthen our collective bargaining power across the entertainment sector.

By supporting the WGA and SAG-AFTRA, IATSE can help create a unified front for the industry. Consumers will witness the strength of a united labor movement, demanding better treatment for all entertainment workers. Together, the members of IATSE can bolster the morale of striking writers and actors, offering unwavering support that transcends the jurisdiction of individual unions.

IATSE has a legacy of fighting for the rights of our members and standing tall in the face of adversity. As the backbone of the entertainment industry, our contributions are immeasurable. Yet like our colleagues in WGA and SAG-AFTRA, we face challenges, including long hours, low pay, and precarious job security. An interdependent relationship exists between these unions, making it all the more crucial to stand in solidarity. Collectively, we will send a resounding message to studios and production houses that the exploitation of creative labor will no longer be tolerated. Demands for fair compensation, reasonable working hours, and safe working conditions must be met to ensure the sustainability and growth of the industry.

The power of this unified labor movement can inspire workers across other sectors, fostering a spirit of resilience and solidarity. By standing together, IATSE, WGA, and SAGAFTRA pave the way for an equitable and just society where all workers are treated with dignity and respect.

As the WGA and SAG-AFTRA take a stand for their rights, we have a unique opportunity to amplify the strength of their collective voices. IATSE supports the unions during their strike, sending a powerful message to the industry and beyond. Studios want to break unions. Now is the time to harness the power of labor and shape a brighter, more equitable future for all.

In solidarity, Brigitta

Romanov

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Photo: Stephanie Romanov

Across the country, workers are striking. We have first-hand experience with the Writers Guild of America and SAG-AFTRA strike. Reasons for the strikes and/or strike authorizations include better wages, pension, health care, safety precautions, and first contracts.

Other strikes or impending strikes include:

United Auto Workers (Virginia)

International Association of Machinists (San Diego and Kansas)

American Federation of Musicians (New York City)

Workers United Starbucks rolling strike campaign (national)

Journalists at two dozen local newspapers owned by Gannett Unite (national) Union of Physicians and Dentists (California)

Consider the workers you see every day at grocery stores, package delivery, cleaning services, baristas, childcare, and education, or while transacting business in a post office, bank, or other store. It is up to us to think about our fellow workers and see them as we see ourselves—family members, friends, and coworkers. Every person has an important part to play in society.

We know the importance of our union contracts and how they benefit our lives and the lives of our families. The strikes happening now will set the tone for the future. Each one of us must fight for the dignity of work with good wages and benefits.

We can give to the IATSE PAC to support labor candidates’ electoral bids. We can vote for labor candidates that create policy to enhance the ideals of voting rights, collective bargaining, good wages, pension and all health benefits. We can show corporations that we prefer to use a human teller, cashier, or artist rather than self-check out and AI.

We can support striking workers. Walk a WGA picket line for an hour or ask the strike captain the other ways you can volunteer your services.

Striking workers are courageous. They set precedent for the future of their fellow workers. There is sacrifice involved, but solidarity keeps the spirit strong and the success of gaining the contract makes it worth-while.

“A rising tide lifts all boats.”

In solidarity, Dana

Woods

Photo: Anna Wyckoff
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OUTSTANDING PERIOD COSTUMES FOR A SERIES

SHARON LONG, CLAIRE TREMLETT, BASIA KUZNAR, ANNA LAU

“A TRIUMPHANT RETURN.

SHARON LONG’S COSTUMES ARE VISUALLY COMPELLING.”

A.V.

CLUB
EMMY
® AWARD NOMINEE
14 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023
Exhibition Photos: Courtesy of the V&A South Kensington

Unveiling DIVA at the V&A: A Journey Through the History of the Ultimate Entertainment Icons

The Victoria and Albert Museum holds a special place in the heart of every art enthusiast, and as a London visitor, it has always been a personal favorite. When it was announced that the museum would host an extraordinary exhibit featuring the legendary costumes worn by divas from the entertainment industry, I seized the opportunity to see it.

Since the turn of the 19th century, divas have wielded an undeniable power within the entertainment realm. From opera houses to grand stages, the enchanting silent film starlets to the gossip-hungry studios of Hollywood’s Golden Age, divas have captivated audiences with their talents and persona. Today, the baton has been passed to modern pop icons adorning the covers of prestigious magazines like Vogueand RollingStone.

The exhibit grants visitors an exclusive, backstage glimpse into the captivating history of the diva, showcasing the exquisite costumes worn by icons such as Josephine Baker, Clara Bow, and Mae West. As guests journey through the exhibit, they travel through the four waves of feminism, from the 1850s to powerhouses like Nina Simone and Janelle Monae.

Organized by decade, each display is complemented by a perfectly paired piece of music, an interview, or a movie clip streamed through Bluetooth headsets. With every transition to a new area, visitors are treated to a new piece of audible history. While standing before the renowned “All about Eve” dress, masterfully crafted by CDG designer Edith Head, the voice of Bette Davis resounds in listeners’ ears, evoking the immortal line, “Fasten your seatbelts, it’s going to be a bumpy night!”

Standing on the second floor of the exhibit, visitors are immediately transported into a world of awe-inspiring costumes. The space is adorned with breathtaking ensembles worn by renowned artists such as Rihanna, Prince, Lizzo, Bjork, Bette Midler, and Freddie Mercury to name a few. The arched ceilings mimic the night sky, featuring celestial images that merge the likes of Marilyn Monroe, Janis Joplin, and Mariah Carey, each belting out a solo that resonates through the space.

Exhibition Photos: Courtesy of the V&A South Kensington
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Bob Mackie for Cher

Like a beacon of sequined light, the true divas themselves take center stage; Tina Turner and Cher, designed by our own Bob Mackie, in gorgeous headdresses accompanied by magnificent color sequined dresses detailed with crystalized feathers. Mackie attended opening night for the exhibit and commented, “I’m delighted to have my costumes in this amazing exhibition, DIVA! The exhibition has costumes going back to the 19th century opera singers, Hollywood film star and modern pop starsgreat company for Tina and Cher!”

Another unforgettable figure gracing the exhibit is none other than Sir Elton John. For his 50th birthday outfit, Sir Elton enlisted the talents of costume designer Sandy Powell. True to Sir Elton John’s flamboyant style, Powell crafted an extraordinary

ensemble inspired by King Louis XIV, embellished with dazzling Swarovski crystals and adorned with a regal feathered cape fit for a King.

For book collectors, there is a captivating piece that deserves a prominent place in any designer’s library: The Diva, featuring the enigmatic Grace Jones on its cover. I was very thankful for my British team who gifted me a copy. It is a cherished memory of my time there on location.

Exhibition Photos: Courtesy of the V&A South Kensington
Illustrations: Courtesy of Bob Mackie Design Group Ltd. Joe McFate, Daniel Orlandi, &bBob Mackie
16 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023
Photo courtesy of Daniel Orlandi
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Costume Designer Marylin

Fitoussi

EMILYINPARIS:

What’sItAllAbout...

Assistant Costume Designer

Herehau Ragonneau

Associate Costume Designer

Daniela Telle

Costume Supervisor

Marie Fremont

Costume Designer

Cynthia Ann Summers

THELASTOFUS: EndureandSurvive

Assistant Costume Designers

Kelsey Chobotar

Rebecca Toon

Costume Supervisor

Michelle Carr

Costume Designer Alex Bovaird

THEWHITELOTUS:

That’sAmore

Assistant Costume Designer

Brian Sprouse

Costume Supervisor

Margherita Zanobetti

Costume Designers

Colleen

Atwood, Mark Sutherland

WEDNESDAY:

Wednesday’sChild

IsFullofWoe

Assistant Costume Designer

Robin Soutar

Costume Supervisors

Claudia Littlefield

Adina Bucur

Costume Designer

Dana

Covarrubias

ONLYMURDERSIN THEBUILDING:Framed

Assistant Costume Designer

Abby Geoghegan

Costume Supervisor

Kathleen Gerlach

Costume Designer Michelle

Matland

SUCCESSION:ChurchandState

Assistant Costume Designer

Jonathan Schwartz

Costume Supervisor

Mark Agnes

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Costume Designer Helen

BEEF: TheBirdsDon’tSing, TheyScreechinPain

Assistant Costume Designers

Austin Wittick

YJ Hwang

Costume Supervisor

Mark Anthony Summers

Costume Designer

SWARM:Honey

Assistant Costume Designer

Brittny Chapman

Costume Supervisor Mashal Khan

Costume Designers Lou

THEWATCHER: Welcome,Friends

Assistant Costume Designer Catherine Crabtree

Costume Supervisor

Zakiya Dennis

Costume Designer Provi

DOLLYPARTON’S MOUNTAINMAGIC CHRISTMAS

Costume Supervisor

Jose Ramos

Dolly’s Wardrobe by Steve Summers

Costume Designer

FLEISHMANISINTROUBLE: Me-Time

Assistant Costume Designers

Angel Peart Katie Novello

Deirdre Wegner

Costume Supervisor

Anne Newton-Harding

Dawson
Dominique
Fulp
Mance
Eyrich, Rudy
Huang
Katznelson
Leah
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Costume Designer Catherine Adair

PERRYMASON: ChapterTen

Assistant Costume Designer

David J. Matwijkow

Costume Supervisor

Nanrose Buchman

Costume Designer Sharon

THEGREAT: ChooseYourWeapon

Assistant Costume Designers

Claire Tremlett

Basia Kuznar

Costume Supervisor

Anna Lau

Costume Designers

QUEENCHARLOTTE: ABRIDGERTONSTORY: CrownJewels

Assistant Costume Designer

Jovana Gospavic

Costume Supervisor

Alex Locke

Costume Designer Amy

THECROWN: MouMou

Associate Costume Designer

Sidonie Roberts

Costume Supervisor

Christof Roche-Gordon

Costume Designer Donna

THEMARVELOUS

MRS.MAISEL:Susan

Assistant Costume Designers

Katie Hartsoe

Ben Philipp

Amanda Seymour

Costume Supervisors

Claire Aquila

Marie Seifts

Lyn Elizabeth Paolo, Laura Frecon
Zakowska
Long
Roberts
20 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023

Costume Designer

DAHMER-MONSTER

THEJEFFREYDAHMER

STORY:PleaseDon’tGo

Assistant Costume Designers

Monica Chamberlain

Desmond Smith

Costume Supervisor

Suzy Freeman

Costume Designer

DAISYJONES&THESIX: Track8:LooksLike

WeMadeIt

Costume Supervisor

Derek Sullivan

Costume Designer

Mitchell

Travers

GEORGE&TAMMY:

We’reGonnaHoldOn

Assistant Costume Designers

Mitchel Wolf

Laurel Rose

Aileen Abercrombie

Costume Supervisors

Susan Russell

Charles Carter

Costume Designer

GUILLERMODELTORO’S CABINETOFCURIOSITIES:

DreamsintheWitchHouse

Assistant Costume Designer

Ann Steel

Costume Supervisor

Heather Crepp

Costume Designer Peggy Schnitzer

WELCOMETO CHIPPENDALES:

Leeches

Assistant Costume Designer

Derek Bulger

Costume Supervisor

Julie Heath

Luis Sequeira
Denise
Wingate
Rudy
Mance
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Costume Designer Salvador Perez

HOCUSPOCUS2

Assistant Costume Designer

Elizabeth Shelton

Costume Supervisor

Gala Autumn

Costume Designer Suttirat

OBI-WANKENOBI:PartI

Assistant Costume Designer

Stacia Lang

Costume Supervisor

Lynda Foote

Costume Designer

Shawna

Trpcic

THEMANDALORIAN:

Chapter22:GunsforHire

Assistant Costume Designer

Elissa Alcala

Costume Designer Jany Temime

HOUSEOFTHEDRAGON: TheHeirsoftheDragon

Assistant Costume Designers

Katherine Burchill

Paul Yeowell

Rachel George

Costume Supervisor

Joanna Lynch

Costume Designer

Kate

Hawley

THELORDOFTHERINGS: THERINGSOFPOWER: AShadowofthePast

Assistant Costume Designers

Libby Dempster

Lucy McLay

Jaindra Watson

Costume Supervisors

Pip Lingard

Jenny Rushton

Costume Supervisors

Julie Robar

Julie Yang Silver

Costume Designer

Laura Montgomery

WHATWEDOINTHE SHADOWS:TheWedding

Assistant Costume Designer

Barbara Cardoso

Costume Supervisor

Judy Laukkanen

Anne Larlarb
22 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023

The Variety, Nonfiction, or Reality category is a juried award that permits the possibility of more than one show in that category being recognized with the Emmy. A jury panel of Television Academy Peer Group members will review all submissions and considerable discussion will be undertaken to determine the winner(s). Any entries receiving a unanimous vote from the jury panel will be awarded the Emmy. With this judging process, there is no nomination round. The winner(s) will be announced by the Television Academy in August prior to the Creative Arts Emmys.

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EMMY ® AWARD NOMINATIONS

OUTSTANDING PERIOD COSTUMES FOR A LIMITED OR ANTHOLOGY SERIES OR MOVIE

Peggy Schnitzer, Derek Bulger, Julie Heath 5

“Vividly illustrated by a firm sense of ’80s nostalgia, the show provides a gripping overview of the drama behind the business.” THE

PLAYLIST
INCLUDING
26 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023
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Photos: Ryan Hartford Photos: Shutterstock 30 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023

Bryan Kopp

CDG COCHAIRSCOMIC-CON

CC Committee Chair

Ivy Thaide

CC Cochairs

Kristen Ingram

Jen Hancock

CC Treasurer

Samantha Kuester

CDGPROGRAMATTENDEES

Booth Guest: Designers

Carrie Grace

Cynthia Summers

LJ Shannon

CC Committee

Cassie Stephens

Catherine Velosa

Frank Ippolito / Thingergy

Gina DeDomenico

Laura Brody

Marianne Parker

Oksana Nedavniaya

Trayce Gigi Field

Michi Tominatsu

Christine Cover Ferro

Panelists (1)

Christian Cordella

Colleen Atwood

Jose Fernandez

Panelist (2)

Kate Hawley

Panel Moderator (1)

PhillipBouttéJr.

Panel Moderator (2)

Spencer Williams

Cassandra Sisson

Chris Darcey

Imario Susilo

Isabel Flanagan

Jennifer May Nickel

Katya Rose

Kristen Morici

Leila Gemma Flanagan

Marissa Soto

Matt Hancock

Michelle Fay

Natalie Arriaga

Raven Winter

Kim Winter

Ricki Patenaude

Catherine Adair

David Matijkow

Sara Sikich

Sylvester Cetina

Xander Rose

Grace Castner

Steve Harris

CDG VOLUNTEER ATTENDEES

Audrey (Bells) Hancock

Avary Thorner

Brianna Flanagan

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Hartford
Photos: Ryan
32 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023
Photos: Shutterstock

OUTSTANDING FANTASY/SCI-FI COSTUMES

“Costume designer Sal Perez resurrected the trio’s outfits and then went even farther to breathe new life into the beloved property.”

DISNEYSTUDIOSAWARDS.COM ©2023 DISNEY
3 EMMY ® NOMINATIONS INCLUDING
Salvador Perez COSTUME DESIGNER Elizabeth Shelton ASST. COSTUME DESIGNER Gala Autumn COSTUME SUPERVISOR

HELEN HUANG DELIVERS

The A24-Netflix dark dramedy series Beef is something of a cultural phenomenon. Danny (Steven Yeun) and Amy (Ali Wong) are two strangers who engage in a road rage incident, then quickly spiral down a rabbit hole of obsessive retaliation. Creator Lee Sung Jin had an Asian cast in mind, but the feelings of frustration explored by the script are universal. It is the subtlety of Helen Huang’s costume design that conveys the nuances of the Asian experience in Los Angeles. “My approach is born out of the desire to show the complete personal histories and complexities of each character,” she notes. “It’s a design philosophy that recognizes Asian Americans are not a monolith. There are different ethnic backgrounds, individual family histories, and economic disparities that inform their experiences.”

34 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023
Beef : Ali Wong as Amy Lau & Steven Yeun as Danny Cho. Photos: Netflix
a more complete picture of the Asian American experience and gave me the opportunity to do a lot of subcultures that people don’t see.”
—Helen Huang
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“Beefprovided

Huang’s costumes emphasize the contrast between Amy and Danny that contribute to the escalating tension in their altercations. Although they live only 35 miles apart in Los Angeles, they inhabit two different worlds. Amy lives in affluent Calabasas, while Danny lives in a semidepressed neighborhood. She is a businesswoman on the verge of closing a $10 million deal. He is struggling financially and desperately needs a win. Amy is current and trendy. Her clothes are polished and controlled on the surface, concealing her inner turmoil. His are dated and stylistically stunted. Huang shopped muted colors and creams for Amy in fashionable boutiques as opposed to sourcing garments for Danny in thrift stores to keep his look real. “The specificity of Danny’s dollar-store house sandals, his flea market Liz Claiborne jacket, and his giveaway Sprint Mobile T-shirt represent not only a fully realized person, but also a visual documentation of the Korean American identity.”

The supporting cast is designed to strengthen the contrast between the two lead characters and their individual worlds. Complementing Amy’s curated style, her husband, George, (Joseph Lee) exudes casual chic. “He has an international style mixed with that Silver Lake hipster kind of aesthetic,” says Huang. To intensify the tension between Amy and her mother-inlaw, she dressed Fumi (Patti Yasutake) in bold colors and patterns from distinctive and idiosyncratic Japanese designers. “I don’t like sacrificing a female character’s unique aesthetic to make her look more ‘conventionally flattering.’ I feel that waters down the character.” Projecting a woman who is confident in who she is, Fumi wears big 1930s rings and bracelets and a large Issey Miyake necklace that complement her wearable-art style.

36 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023
Beef : Ali Wong as Amy Lau, Steven Yeun as Danny Cho, Young Mazino as Paul, David Choe as Isaac, Joseph Lee as George. Photos: Netflix

“Additionally, I consider elements such as music, education level, and social circles that contribute to a character’s personal style,” explains Huang. Danny’s younger brother Paul (Young Mazino) is very Americanized. He lives in a little community outside Los Angeles with access to a local mall where he buys Champion and Express. He’s trying to be stylish with limited funds. “We shopped used clothing for depth of character and I often repeat costumes because I don’t want the show to seem like they have a new outfit every day.” All of cousin Isaac’s (David Choe) looks are rented. Huang plays with the audience’s expectations of who he is. “When I dress a character like Isaac, who has been to jail, I don’t lead with the thought that he’s an antagonist. Isaac is kind of dicey and has a temper, but he wears LA clothes creatively.”

Dressing billionaire Jordan (Maria Bello) on a restricted budget posed problems. Huang’s solution was to show how the character valued experiences rather than expensive labels. “We think of her as a female Indiana Jones-type character who travels the world to find rare artifacts.” Peppering her costumes with vintage, Huang sourced textiles and accessories from Western Costume Company and other costumes houses, as well as Recess, a local vintage store.

The cast especially enjoyed the flashbacks. The childhood photos they sent Huang of themselves and their parents provided authentic research for the Korean church scenes. “Beef was such an intimate show for me. I felt an immense sense of privilege to get to design these characters and share something with the audience that has been undershared before.”

39
Beef :
Beef : Maria Bello as Jordan Foster, Ali Wong as Amy Lau, Patti Yasutake as Fume. Photos: Netflix
David Choe as Isaac, Steven Yeun as Danny Cho, Andrew Santino as Michael, Young Mazino as Paul. Photos: Netflix

Charlese Antoinette and Meredith Markworth-Pollack are accomplished costume designers, colleagues, and most importantly, friends. Each has been on a personal wellness journey, and common threads in their lives began to crystallize. Antoinette shares, “It came from us being friends and communicating about these things in a really honest way.” As they discussed their experiences and traumas, they felt the need to include their colleagues. So—from chrysalis to butterfly—a Wellness Weekend for costume designers was born.

With Antoinette and Markworth-Pollack serving as cohosts, Moda Operandi—an ever-encouraging proponent and tastemaker—and an assemblage of other dynamic sponsors came on board. MarkworthPollack’s brainchild, Palma Colectiva, a collective of healing arts, played an important role. Markworth-Pollack expresses her sentiments about the need for a helpful foundation in the industry: “Now I feel like I can be more present for everyone and act as a bridge. I can assist, and mend concerns by helping people recognize self-care, mental health, and wellness.” Antoinette chimes in, “I’ve segued differently. I want to enact change as a producer and creative. As a costume designer, there wasn’t much that I could do. Currently, at a supportive company, I’m hoping to cultivate change and advocate for us. People come to me for all types of advice, and if you haven’t been through it, you don’t know how to hold space for them.”

The duo aimed to gather a diverse group that included assistant designers, illustrators, and costume designers across our membership from stage to screen and newcomers to veterans. Antoinette conveyed, “The experience was beautiful due to the diversity, but the truth is that there wasn’t a huge difference between people who have been doing this for only a couple of years to some who have been

40 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023
Photos: Courtesy of Palma Colectiva and Charlese Antoinette

For inquiries, email Charlese Antoinette: werk@charleseantoinette.com

in the business for decades.” Markworth-Pollack added, “We reflected on empowering moments, the beauty that comes from this work, the creativity, times we felt supported, were overjoyed, and proud of our work. I think that everyone walked away feeling lighter because they were able to release so much that they were carrying for so long.”

A couple takeaways from attendees ring true. Christopher Lawrence said of the weekend, “It was empowering and comforting to hear that my colleagues experience many of the same challenges, stresses, and insecurities, regardless of the level of success we have achieved. I left the workshop feeling I had reclaimed my power for my next job. We don’t usually get to work with each other, so building an understanding community is challenging. I strengthened bonds with designers and met wonderful new friends. This event was an incredible building block for our community.”

According to Lee Christian, “The Costume Designer Wellness Weekend was an experience that made me feel included, seen, and heard. The sessions provided me with practical tools for managing stress and gave me a sense of belonging. Being surrounded by likeminded individuals reminded us that our work is essential, and I am motivated to prioritize self-care and connect more deeply with my colleagues.”

Having had such a positively resonant response, Antoinette and Markworth-Pollack have plans for more Wellness Weekends in Los Angeles, New York City, Atlanta, and beyond. Their work is beautifully necessary.

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3141 Oakcliff Industrial St, Atlanta, GA 30340 470.219.5058 kalicollection.net We’remorethanjustprettydresses. Menswear, vintage accessories and more. We have it all.

Arefeh Mansouri

The FLAT PLAT shoe brand has been picked by Qurate Retail Group for their prestigious 2022 Small Business Spotlight. Shining on QVC, HSN, and Zulily, FLAT PLAT captivated audiences with its comfortable and stylish shoes. FLAT PLAT shoes combine comfort, patented soles, and timeless designs, born out of costume designer Arefeh Mansouri’s personal quest for truly comfortable flats. Collaborating with Dr. Allen Baidey, a neuro-interventional pain specialist, they created an outsole that brought relief to Arefeh’s feet and opened a door to unparalleled comfort. Drawing inspiration from Arefeh’s couture design background, each pair of FLAT PLAT Shoes exhibits a chic, timeless, and whimsical design. The initial batch flew off the shelves, offering chic options for every taste.

A brand new twist on women’s flat shoes

44 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023
Photos: Courtesy of Arefeh Mansouri
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The Godfather Exhibit at the Academy

All in the Family

Awards may define a moment, but time is the true proving ground for the impact of a film. Half a century after its debut, director Francis Ford Coppola’s The Godfather and the two sequels that followed mark a definitive line in filmmaking. “The Art of Moviemaking: The Godfather” at the Academy Museum celebrates the artifacts of the blockbuster productions including makeup, props, scripts, and clothing. Two of the three films’ costume designs are represented: TheGodfather,by Anna Hill Johnstone, and TheGodfatherPartIIby Theadora Van Runkle.

In the 2012 book TheGodfatherEffect, biographer Tom Santopietro explains, “With its emphasis on proud ethnicity, The Godfather changed not just the way Italian-Americans saw themselves, but how Americans of all backgrounds viewed their individual and national self-identities, their possibilities, and attendant disappointments.”

This legacy speaks to the power of the script and actors, but also the virtuoso costume design.

Exhibition Photos:
Picture
. Photo:
48 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023
Courtesy of the Academy of Motion
Arts and Sciences’ Margaret Herrick Library The Godfather
Courtesy of Paramount Pictures.

at the Academy Museum until March 17, 2024.

The
Moviemaking:
Art of
The Godfather”
The Godfather Part II : Ron Magid collection The Godfather Part II : Leonard Stanley collection The Godfather.
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Photo: Courtesy of Paramount Pictures.

Johnstone and Van Runkle define character and class, separate power from aspiration, and ground each personality in reality through their clothing. Silhouette, texture, pattern, and subtle character cues are used in concert with abundant historical detail. Looking back at the iconic figures, it is hard to believe there was a moment of tabula rasa, before the red rose was placed in the boutonniere of Don Corleone’s impeccable tuxedo and before Van Runkle’s illustrations danced across the page.

Exhibition
Photos: Courtesy of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences’ Margaret Herrick Library
The Godfather Part II . Illustrations: Theadora Van Runkle papers The Godfather . :
50 THE COSTUME DESIGNER | FALL 2023
Photo: Courtesy of Paramount Pictures.
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