Ginotti Magazine

GINOTTI N E W S MAGAZINE

GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966 CHRONOGRAPH

GREUBEL FORSEY

‘3rd Fundamental Invention’

ULYSSE NARDIN ‘Moonstruck’

LANGE Uhren

TOURBOGRAPH “Pour le Mérite”

INTERNATIONAAL MAGAZINE ABOUT NEW TRENDS AND WATCHES

in this issue: A. Lange & Sรถhne Girard Perregaux Greubel Forsey Jaeger Le Coultre Richard Mille Ulysse Nardin Vertu

An escalation of superlatives: the TOURBOGRAPH “Pour le Mérite” In 2005, A. Lange & Söhne presented a grand complication that established a new benchmark in precision watchmaking: the TOURBOGRAPH “Pour le Mérite”. It was the first one-minute tourbillon in a wristwatch format with a fusée-and-chain transmission as well as an additional rattrapante chronograph. Because of the complexity of the mechanism, it was possible to craft only one watch per month, so the last timepiece of the first partial edition of 51 platinum models was only just delivered a few weeks ago. The coming of a second partial edition of 50 watches in a yet-to-be-defined gold version was announced on the occasion of the original debut. The TOURBOGRAPH “Pour le Mérite” which is now being presented in honour of Ferdinand Adolph Lange also has a case made of the new, harder gold. And it, too, embodies Lange’s ambition to build the world’s finest watches. At the same time, it proves that even a horological superlative can be taken to a new, higher level.

A thousand years of precision: the 1815 MOONPHASE in a new garb The 1815 MOONPHASE epitomises Lange’s unending quest for the ultimate in precision.

No effort was spared to calculate an extremely accurate moon-phase train for this watch. Thanks to a suite of wheels with special transmission ratios, its error per lunar month is a nearly infinitesimal 6.61 seconds. It takes 1,058 years for this error to add up to a deviation of one day relative to the actual lunar cycle. Had such a timepiece existed in the year 952 – during the lifetime of Otto I the Great – and had it run without interruption since then, its moon-phase display would have to be corrected for the first time this year.

Among collectors, the 1999 limited edition pieces of the 1815 MOONPHASE in pink gold and platinum with a black dial rank among the most sought-after Lange timepieces.

Their hallmark is an artistic rendering of the “Big Dipper”, probably the best-known constellation, on the dial. At watch auctions, well-maintained exemplars of this coveted treasure sometimes fetch more than three times the original price. The value of the 1815 MOONPHASE “Homage to F. A. Lange” could follow a similar trend: its edition is limited to 265 watches world-wide.

Tamed whirlwind: the LANGE 1 TOURBILLON with stop seconds At the turn of the millennium, A. Lange & Söhne presented the LANGE 1 TOURBILLON based on the legendary LANGE 1. At that time, it was not yet possible to achieve what Lange’s calibre engineers accomplished a few years later with the CABARET TOURBILLON: to directly and instantaneously stop the balance inside the rotating tourbillon cage. With this feat, they corrected an intrinsic flaw of the tourbillon mechanism that for two hundred years was considered to be the ne plus ultra of horological sophistication.

While the elaborate device elevated the rate accuracy of a watch by overcoming the effects of gravity, it could not be stopped, so the watch could not be set to the second. Lange’s ingenious solution to the problem – the patented stop-seconds mechanism – is now integrated in the LANGE 1 TOURBILLON of the anniversary collection as well. It expresses Lange’s long-standing principle of questioning the validity of even what is already considered perfect.

The crowning conclusion of this rare opus is a mirror-polished bar made of honeycoloured gold that is precisely embedded in the dial and carries the tourbillon cage on the dial side.

A further special feature of this watch is the fact that the one-minute tourbillon is suspended between diamond endstones on both sides. A hallmark that Ferdinand Adolph Lange once introduced to sign the 1A quality category of his pocket watches.

Finally Automatic as well – the LANGE 1 DAYMATIC Since it premiered over 15 years ago, the LANGE 1 has been the unmistakable face of A. Lange & Söhne. With its off-centre dial arrangement and the patented outsize date display, it became the manufactory’s instantly recognisable design icon, ranking among the most commended wristwatches of all times. Simultaneously, it is one of the most successful timepieces of the acclaimed watchmaking company. Its popularity prompted the development of a complete LANGE 1 family composed of six highly distinctive models that share one common asset: a manually wound movement with a twin mainspring barrel for a power reserve of three days visualised by a progressive power-reserve indicator. However, there was never a self-winding LANGE 1. But now, the wait is over. For all the devotees of this exceptional watch, including those who derived personal enjoyment from feeding it with the necessary energy, the manufactory now presents the self-winding LANGE 1 DAYMATIC with a retrograde day-ofweek display. For the watch family with the prestigious name, it stands for the beginning of a new era.

At first sight, it seems familiar, but a closer look shows that it is innovative in every respect. Endowed with a newly developed self-winding movement, it affords a totally novel perspective of the LANGE 1. In comparison with the manually wound LANGE 1, the dial of the LANGE 1 DAYMATIC is reflection-symmetric. Only connoisseurs will note this discreet hallmark of the self-winding LANGE 1. On its face, the main dial with the hour and minute hands is now on the right side. For most watch enthusiasts who wear their timepieces on their left wrists, this layout has the advantage that when they pull back their sleeve, the first thing they will see is the most important information: the time. Conversely, the patented outsize date was moved from its customary position at the top right to the top left. Beneath it, the useful retrograde day-of-week display creates balance, replacing the power-reserve indicator which a self-winding watch does not require. The date and day-of-week displays can be conveniently and separately advanced with two push pieces.

As was the case with the classic LANGE 1, the displays of the LANGE 1 DAYMATIC are harmoniously arranged on the solid-silver dial. For instance, the centre of the outsize date and the arbours of the day-of-week and seconds hands are on the same vertical axis. This is the baseline of an isosceles triangle whose tip lies exactly in the middle of the main dial.

The case of the LANGE 1 DAYMATIC in yellow gold, pink gold or platinum has a stately diameter of 39.5 millimetres, one millimetre larger than the LANGE 1. It houses the self-winding calibre L021.1 which was developed from the ground up. Efficient winding is assured by a heavy central rotor delicately embossed with the “A. Lange & Söhne” signature. It occupies the entire 31.6-millimetre diameter of the movement. The platinum centrifugal mass on the outer rim of the rotor transforms even the most subtle gestures of the wrist into kinetic winding energy. When fully wound, the mainspring has a power reserve of 50 hours.

Paragon Class: the SAXONIA ANNUAL CALENDAR It has been anxiously awaited by many watch enthusiasts – the A. Lange & Söhne with an annual calendar, one of the most popular and useful complications in horology. And now here it is: the SAXONIA ANNUAL CALENDAR. It amalgamates the concepts of a watch, a calendar, and mechanical ingenuity into a unique timekeeping instrument that in this category no doubt establishes a new benchmark in design and technology.

After the distinguished Saxon manufactory had presented nearly all grand horological complications and enriched them with landmark innovations – including a perpetual calendar – the emergence of an A.Lange & Söhne watch with an annual calendar was only a matter of time. The horological complication which arguably offers the greatest convenience in daily life is now available in a Lange watch for the first time: the SAXONIA ANNUAL CALENDAR.

Beneath a dial of delightful clarity and graceful proportions, an elaborate mechanical program automatically advances the day of the week, the date, and the month under consideration of its duration in days. The calendar assembly only needs to be corrected once a year. All three calendar indications as well as the moon phase are harmoniously arranged on a dial of exquisite coherence. With this new watch in the elegant SAXONIA style and decidedly contemporary flair, A. Lange & Söhne reaffirms its commitment to a proud tradition that repeatedly spawned horological milestones.

Apart from the unparalleled combination of the annual calendar and Lange’s iconic outsize date, the SAXONIA ANNUAL CALENDAR stands out with an exceptionally precise moon-phase display and the famous self-winding SAX-0-MAT calibre with its ingenious ZERO-RESET handsetting mechanism. With its superior quality attributes, it is predestined to become the paragon in this horological calendar discipline.

Measure of All Things Time: the RICHARD LANGE “Referenzuhr” With its ZERO-RESTART function, an innovative seconds hand resetting mechanism, the limited-edition RICHARD LANGE “Referenzuhr” enriches the line of observation watches dedicated entirely to precise time measurement.

Just like its famous namesake, the RICHARD LANGE watch family is fully devoted to the scientific facets of horology with a focus on the utmost degree of precision.

It has its origins in the understanding that the accuracy of a timepiece reflects the competence of the master. At A. Lange & Söhne, this insight dates back far into the 19th century.

With its resettable subsidiary seconds, the RICHARD LANGE “Referenzuhr” continues this tradition. The actuation of a push piece above the crown causes its seconds hand to jump to zero and wait there as long as the push piece is depressed. During that time, a vertical disc clutch assures that the ongoing measurement of time is not interrupted – the movement keeps running. When the push piece is released, the seconds hand restarts instantaneously.

This ZERO-RESTART function is very useful for stopping events of short durations. It is also ideal for synchronising watches and clocks at different locations: the actuation of the push piece synchronises the seconds hand of the instrument with that of a reference clock exactly when its hand passes the 60-seconds mark (“zero”). This action “stores” the time of the reference clock and allows it to be transferred to other timekeeping instruments. The RICHARD LANGE “Referenzuhr” pays homage to a stronghold of time measurement that played in important role in 19th-century Dresden: the timekeeping service of the Mathematics and Physics Salon.

The Fine Art of Writing Time: the New 1815 CHRONOGRAPH It was a sensation when it premiered in 1999: with the DATOGRAPH, A. Lange & Söhne established an excellent reputation in the topmost league of chronographmaking and then systematically consolidated it with horological milestones such as the DOUBLE SPLIT and the DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL. Now, the 1815 CHRONOGRAPH debuts not only as a notable reinterpretation of a horological classic but also as a top-tier addition to the 1815 watch family that was relaunched just last year. It has a power reserve of 60 hours and a proprietary Lange balance spring.

Hardly any other watch manifests the union of tradition and inventiveness as well as of legendary beauty and advanced technology as remarkably as Lange’s 1815 CHRONOGRAPH. The dial reflects the subtle arrangement of indications shared by A. Lange & Söhne’s coveted historic pocket watches, of which some 700 were already configured as chronographs. The two symmetrically positioned subsidiary dials for the seconds and 30-minute counter emphasise the balanced geometry and the classic style of the watch. The vintage railway-track scale at the periphery of the dial assures superb legibility of stopped times to one-fifth of a second. The precisely jumping minute counter also simplifies time measurements. The sleek, elegant looks of the watch contrast with the intricacy of the calibre L951.5 chronograph movement with column-wheel control and a stepped pinion for the precisely jumping minute counter. One of the highlights among the numerous technical features is the flyback function, a device found only in very few chronographs. With one single push piece, the 1815 CHRONOGRAPH can be stopped and reset in the middle of a time measurement.

LANGE ZEITWERK – the Face of a New Epoch With a new timepiece concept, A. Lange & Söhne ventures a bold step forward Often, it is a new face that ushers in new times. That was the case after the rift in Europe had healed and the LANGE 1 paved the way for the comeback of A. Lange & Söhne. Fifteen years ago, it enriched the realm of horology with a fundamentally new concept and unprecedented technical finesse. As a design icon, it has long conquered its place at the pinnacle of timelessness. Now, with a mechanical, precisely jumping hour and minute indication of singular clarity, Lange presents another milestone. So yet again, a new face ushers in the next era in timekeeping. Its name: LANGE ZEITWERK. “I shut my eyes in order to see” – the creative maxim of famous French painter Paul Gauguin was adopted by Lange’s calibre engineers and designers as they resolved to explore uncharted territory and, from an unbiased viewpoint, devise a watch that would be evolutionary and progressive in every respect. Ultimately, progress is always a result of curiosity. The question at Lange was: “Can the principles of a mechanical watch and a modern time indication format be persuasively combined?” The answer is the first mechanical wristwatch with a truly eloquent jumping numeral display. It is a watch that reinterprets time in an era of change. It not only endows time with a new face but also defines a new direction in watchmaking. It is a timepiece that embodies the spirit of time and simultaneously transcends it. Indeed, it is a watch that lets its owner experience a totally new sense of time.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966 CHRONOGRAPH Girard-Perregaux’s latest creation offers a stylish take on traditional watchmaking, integrating a column-wheel chronograph in an elegant case from its Girard-Perregaux 1966 collection.

Combining technical virtuosity and authentic design in the same vision of perfection, this beautifully co-ordinated model is a consummate example of the Manufacture’s wide-ranging expertise.

Launched in 2006, the discreet elegance and superb craftsmanship of the Girard-Perregaux 1966 collection quickly established it as an icon of the Brand. The new model displays this classic spirit in both its style and functionality.

The clean lines of its 40-millimetre case disguise a sophisticated design and production process. Its curvature and lugs have been carefully fashioned to sit perfectly on the wrist.

Designed in the Manufacture’s workshops, it has undergone meticulous finishing operations to reveal the brilliance of the precious material - either pink gold or white gold.

In order to perfect the timeless design of this watch, Girard-Perregaux opted for a traditional chronograph with a 30-minute counter and central second hand. The easy-to-read function displays create a perfect balance, while the tachometric scale running around the edge of the dial reinforces the model’s character.

Developed and produced within the Manufacture, its column-wheel chronograph movement comprises 304 components. The complexity of its mechanism and the quality of the finish can be appreciated via the watch’s transparent case-back.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966, LIMITED EDITION PALLADIUM MODELS

GIRARD-PERREGAUX 1966 FULL CALENDAR PALLADIUM

The Girard-Perregaux 1966 collection has quickly become one of the Brand’s icons.

Named in honour of the Neuchatel Observatory’s Centenary Prize, awarded to the Manufacture in 1966 for its achievements in the field of chronometry, it embodies Girard-Perregaux’s expertise both in terms of style and technical performance.

Brought to life by its palladium case, the Girard-Perregaux 1966 Full Calendar combines the functions and style of a great watchmaking classic, reworked in a unique metal. This limited edition integrates a full calendar displaying the date, day of the week, month and moon phases.

This year, Girard-Perregaux has chosen to create two limited edition models, each in only 199 pieces, with a palladium case which perfectly complements their timeless elegance.

Time moves fluidly around its perfectlyproportioned dial. Accompanying the path traced by its fine, leaf-shaped hands, two windows placed side-by-side at 12 o’clock display the day of the week and the month.

The moon follows its path at 6 o’clock, ornamenting the date indicator. Beautiful symmetry, optimal readability: the GirardPerregaux 1966 Full Calendar satisfies the most refined tastes in terms of both pure design and distinctive style.

35TH ANNIVERSARY OF – 40TH ANNIVERSARY OF

THE LAUREATO WATCH GIRARD-PERREGAUX QUARTZ WATCHES

40 exclusive pieces as a double tribute to the Girard-Perregaux Manufacture’s expertise in the areas of innovation and design In 2010, Girard-Perregaux will celebrate a double anniversary: thirty-five years of the ‘Laureato’ collection and forty years since its first quartz wrist watches. The Manufacture, now renowned the world over for its mechanical movements, also played a pioneering role in the story of quartz watches. It was in fact Girard-Perregaux that set the decisive frequency of 32,768 Hz, since adopted by all manufacturers as the universal standard.

This progressive step, at the time revolutionary, was one of the Brand’s great innovations.

Visionary spirit and technical progress have always been in Girard-Perregaux’s genes, and the Brand has obtained almost 80 patents in the watchmaking field. It is an extraordinary heritage, a part of which is celebrated by this commemorative model.

The Girard-Perregaux icon is enclosed in a round case, increased to a diameter of 41 millimetres, and exudes an elegance which is at once timeless and highly contemporary. The historic architecture of the Tourbillon with three gold Bridges has been augmented for a very limited edition of only 50 pieces.

WW.TC SMALL SECOND Girard-Perregaux has unveiled a new model in the ww.tc Small Second collection, marrying the brilliance of pink gold with the depth of a black dial. This exquisitely elegant interpretation emphasises the watch’s clean lines while reinforcing the bold style which is the collection’s signature.

This version sees the ww.tc system, which allows the wearer to read both the local time and the time in 24 time zones simultaneously, allied with a small second function positioned at 6 o’clock. These harmoniously arranged functions form an elegant composition. In keeping with its longstanding quest for excellence, Girard-Perregaux has designed each detail to enhance readability, with a day/night contrast on the hour ring, large applied numerals and fine leaf-shaped hands.

The marriage between the pink gold of the case and the black dial, repeated on the city ring, underlines the unique character and power of this model. The indices, hands and 24hour ring also feature gold touches to accentuate the interplay of contrasts between the intense black and the precious metal.

With a diameter of 41 millimetres, the elegant case demonstrates clean lines and harmonious proportions, its gently curved lugs ensuring optimal wearer comfort. The lustrous brilliance of the bezel and lugs contrasts beautifully with the satin-finished sides.

A consummate expression of Girard-Perregaux’s expertise, the ww.tc Small Second combines a unique style with sophisticated technical features. It houses one of the Manufacture’s own self-winding movements: the GP03300-22, visible through the transparent case-back.

Double Tourbillon Technique The Double Tourbillon Technique is an entirely original and innovative interpretation of Greubel Forsey’s first fundamental invention, the Double Tourbillon 30°. It is a timepiece with a boldly assertive character and a totally unique architecture.

The Double Tourbillon Technique is a case study in precision mechanical watchmaking with the sapphire crystal acting as a portal through which to observe the mesmerising workings of the intricately interlocking parts. The eye is naturally drawn from one gear to the next, enabling careful observation of each separate element.

A true work of technical art With the Double Tourbillon Technique, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have created a truly stunning timepiece that is faithful to their philosophy of technical visibility. Each and every element of the mechanism is enhanced and displayed without overshadowing others.

At the heart of the timepiece is the Double Tourbillon 30° mechanism ; however, to perpetuate the art of horology and contribute to its 21st century development, several additional technical elements have been added, including four fast-rotating co-axial barrels guaranteeing 120 hours of autonomy.

Admirers can even enjoy the sight of the barrels rotating while winding and unwinding.

Coupled to these barrels is the visible spherical differential that drives the power reserve indicator. The hours are displayed on a transparent sapphire crystal ring fitted inside the inner circumference of the bezel to ensure full visual access to the astonishingly three-dimensional depth of the mechanism. Transparency is also reflected in the luminous openworked signature Greubel Forsey hands and both the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and sub-seconds dial at 9 o’clock are strikingly enhanced by their red triangular pointers.

A powerful personal message By virtue of its fully visible mechanism, the Double Tourbillon Technique is a showcase for Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey’s unique blend of technical mastery coupled with superb aesthetic finishing. The timepiece reinforces their commitment to absolute quality and fine craftsmanship, also expressed in the discreet message from the inventor watchmakers engraved around the case band.

These highly personal words convey Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey’s total dedication to their art and their contribution to horological advancement through fundamental research, the sophisticated architecture of their movements and their relentess pursuit of optimal timekeeping.

3rd Fundamental Invention Invention Piece 3 A tribute to the Third Invention To pay homage to their third invention, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have taken on the challenge of housing a watch mechanism, combining complex and innovative techniques within an unprecedented architectural setting.

Invention Piece 3 redefines the frontiers of technical accomplishment and is yet another testament to Greubel Forsey’s determination to discover and develop new 21st century micromechanical inventions. An approach that has made Greubel Forsey synonymous with prestige and innovation ; a status earned through the mechanisms they invent and the architecture through which they interpret them.

Precision and craftsmanship The third invention consists of a single tourbillon cage inclined at a 25° angle and performing a rapid rotation in 24 seconds. This utterly original mechanism guarantees the watch maximum efficiency and optimal performance on the wrist. Invention Piece 3 features a totally unconventional display with the plates themselves serving as the base for the timekeeping indicators. The four gold plates are engraved with a portion of a personal message from Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey providing an insight into the complex process involved in creating the extraordinary mechanism of this third invention.

Innovative architecture In a league of its own, Invention Piece 3 shows the time on a large 24-hour display taking up most of the space on the dial side. The minute display is concentric to the hour dial, with the hours distinguished by a red indicator and the minutes by a blue one. The power reserve, offset at 2 o’clock, is visually balanced by the tourbillon at 8 o’clock and provides linear reading of the indications. A sub-seconds dial at 5 o’clock ensures the overall equilibrium of the timepiece. Turning the watch over, the tourbillon, supported by a distinctive arrow-shaped bridge, provides an aesthetical link between the front and back of the watch and it can also be admired via the lateral convex sapphire crystal on the side of the case.

Powerful and lasting links A personal message from Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey is engraved on a gold crescent-shaped plate visible through the caseback and provides further evidence of sublime craftsmanship. The very exclusive nature of Invention Piece 3 is ensured by a unique series of 11 pieces in white gold, 11 pieces in red gold and 11 pieces in platinum. This exceptional and exquisitely balanced timepiece expresses a rare degree of innovation and technical mastery that is enhanced by its exceptional hand finishing. When observed through a magnifying glass, the engraved message reveals the true nature of the extreme dedication to horology embodied in its numerous technical and aesthetic details. Invention Piece 3 is clearly designed to build powerful and lasting links between its owner and the inventor watchmakers, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey.

3rd Fundamental Invention Tourbillon 24 Secondes The mechanism A new approach for a 3rd Invention When angles enhance velocity Over two centuries after the brilliant idea of the Tourbillon was first conceived by AbrahamLouis Breguet, Greubel Forsey are tackling the flaw in equilibrium and the effects of gravity on balance for a third time. The Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné (Calibre GF01) is the result of an innovative approach respectful of aesthetic harmony and technical perfection.

After inventing a first Tourbillon system specifically designed for wristwatches in the shape of its Double Tourbillon 30°, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey took their research a step further with the help of their EWT® ¬technological platform to develop: the Quadruple ¬Tourbillon à Différentiel Sphérique.

While their first two Inventions pursued the same aim in the same way – namely multiaxis Tourbillon systems aimed at minimising the regulating mechanism’s exposure to the dreaded critical position through a combination of velocity and carefully determined angles – the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné makes use of the speed of rotation and the angle of inclination of the regulator in order to resolve this problem.

The invention set free Entirely in tune with the Greubel Forsey philosophy, this third invention is intended to be timeless, spectacular and magical: totally detached from its gear trains, the system appears to be moving in complete freedom and may be observed in full from both front and side. The shape of the rounded-off steel Tourbillon bridge further broadens the visual access to the mechanism and provides a view of the carriage in titanium and the pillars in Avional. The use of these low-density, high-resistance materials borrowed from the aviation industry was the only means of coping with the huge stresses imposed by the cage’s high rotation speed.

The Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné is guaranteed to create a strong impression considering that the rotating cage is composed of 88 parts weighing 0.39 grams in all. A graduated 24-seconds circle placed beneath the system serves to quantify the impressive progress of this record-breaking timepiece.

Harmonious asymmetry To clothe the high-speed technical performance and incredible complexity of its third Invention, Greubel Forsey has once again opted for an artistic dimension and for beauty. The asymmetrical case construction offers the wearer of the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Incliné a unique and personal view of the fast-moving operation of his timepiece, since the openings in the dial and along the central band of the case are optimally placed for his line of vision.

The various items of information regarding the modus operandi of the model appear on an exquisitely velvet-finished gold dial. A small seconds sector complements the Tourbillon rotation indication placed beneath the inclined cage, while a power-reserve sector provides a constant update on barrels’ winding level.

Jaeger-LeCoultre “1000 Hours Chrono” A new precision and quality label for the Master Grande Tradition collection Emphatically reaffirming its pioneering role and leadership status within the narrow circle of authentic fine watch Manufactures, Jaeger-LeCoultre has developed a new label of quality and precision named “1000 Hours Chrono”. Applying the ISO 3159 chronometer norms governing the controls performed by the official Swiss chronometry testing authorities, this new label specifically developed for the Master Grande Tradition watches with silicon escapement is entirely in line with the brand’s ongoing commitment to certified quality. In keeping with its avant-garde traditions, Jaeger-LeCoultre has introduced a major innovation by testing the accuracy of finished watches and not just of the movements alone without their complications.

The “1000 Hours Chrono” label: a logical next step for a manufacturer dedicated to innovation.

Since its founding in 1833, the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre has consistently distinguished itself by the aesthetic and technical excellence of its timepieces. This lengthy process of innovation centring around precision and inventiveness could only have been achieved by the consistent integration of new crafts and new technologies that have made JaegerLeCoultre a benchmark in the field by earning recognised status as an authentically comprehensive and fully integrated manufacturer.

Jaeger-LeCoultre, which produces in-house all parts required for the construction of a movement, as well as most external watch components, developed its own quality label at a relatively early stage. The “1000 Hours Control”, launched in 1992, is designed to test each stage in the production of a timepiece, along with its accuracy, in order to meet the highest expectations of its future owner.

Firmly innovation- and future-oriented by nature, the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre has regularly incorporated new materials into its timepieces – the most striking example doubtless being the revolutionary Master Compressor Extreme LAB unveiled in 2007, the first truly lubricant-free watch in horological history. This ultra-sophisticated and unparalleled technical feat enabled Jaeger-LeCoultre to explore the physical properties of new materials, including silicon. The latter is now used in all the escapements of the yellow gold limitededition Master Grande Tradition watches, and its attributes alone are enough to justify the creation of a new quality and precision label.

The “1000 Hours Chrono” label: a new test of accuracy Characterised by a blend of technical excellence and horological inspiration, the Master Grande Tradition collection also gives pride of place to technical innovations. The lever-wheel and the lever on the 18-carat yellow gold versions of these highly exclusive timepieces are made from silicon, a high-tech material boasting numerous advantages. Extremely hard, ultra-light and capable of operating lubricant-free, it is also extremely resistant to wear, and its excellent rubbing coefficient considerably reduces friction within the movement.

Moreover, the manufacturing technologies employed enable the creation of complex all-ofapiece parts with shapes that are incredibly precise compared with steel.

The integration of silicon into Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece opened up whole new vistas in the ongoing quest for precision, and also meant that the company engineers had to evolve the production process.

Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire The Duomètre line gets a new member: the Quantième Lunaire shows time, date and the age of the moon with the unprecedented precision of the ingenious Dual-Wing-movement concept.

The Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire embodies the latest in horological achievements of Jaeger-LeCoultre: it displays time with a jumping seconds hand showing 1/6th of a second increments and additionally providing the date and the age of the moon in a separate sub dial. The true genius of this watch however lies within the Dual-Wing movement concept, which features two independent power supplies: one entirely dedicated to creating a perfect timing foundation – regulated by escapement and balance –, the other solely for the display of time – hour, minute and seconds hands – as well as date and the age of the moon for the Northern as well as the Southern hemisphere. Both are synchronized through the jumping seconds hand mechanism driven by the escapement.

With the Duomètre line, Jaeger-LeCoultre breaks new ground in terms of the accuracy of mechanical wristwatches, for it devised a completely new movement structure in order to gain the highest possible precision. Therefore the watchmakers have come up with the so called Dual-Wing concept to bypass a common problem in mechanical watches: any additional complication reduces the power of the winding barrel thus depriving the precisely tuned regulation organ of a steady flow of energy from the winding barrel. The regularity of the winding barrel’s energy to the going train and escapement remains of primary importance in order to measure time with the precision demanded for today’s mechanical wristwatches.

Hence the influence of any given complication to the long-term rate of a watch can lead to deviations in time measurement hardly acceptable in such a valuable timepiece. This fact can be overcome by using a fully independent power source to run the complication, separating its power supply from that of the basic movement, which in turn is fed by its own winding barrel thus ensuring a constant flow of energy. Therefore the dual-wing concept, first introduced in the Duomètre à Chronographe in 2007, is now incorporated in the new Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire leading to a tremendous increase of accuracy in complication movements.

Their utmost attention to such details proves that the specialists at Jaeger-LeCoultre have developed a dual-wing calendar-watch of exceptional characteristics, with levels of accuracy that until now could only have been reached by watches without complications. Such a sophisticated approach to timekeeping precision is a typical advantage that 177 years of expertise in high horology can bring.

Jaeger-LeCoultre forges a new extreme path The Antoine LeCoultre expedition sets off to conquer a virgin Himalayan peak

Under the patronage of the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux, a team of three seasoned mountaineers, headed by the Swiss guide Stéphane Schaffter, is on-site in Nepal and currently gearing up to undertake up an extreme challenge: the ascension of a mountain in the Himalayas that has never yet been trod by human feet. Three exceptional timepieces made by the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre will be part of the adventure, starting with the famous 1958 Geophysic Chronometer; along with the Master Compressor Extreme Lab which became an instant watch industry sensation when introduced in 2007. A third new extreme creation being prepared in the Manufacture workshops in the Vallée de Joux will also be making the trip.

In a world where it sometimes seems everything has already been discovered, conquering a virgin summit is an endeavour comparable to the famous expeditions undertaken in the mid-20th century with the aim of conquering the world’s greatest peaks one after the other. Seeking to repeat such an accomplishment in the farthest reaches of the Himalaya’s half a century later meant putting together a team of climbers with decades of experience behind them and well acquainted with the grandeur, beauty and unpredictable nature of the mountains.

Stéphane Schaffter, a Swiss alpinist who has scaled the fabled Bonatti Pillar, will be accompanied by Apa Sherpa, who has 19 ascensions of Everest under his belt; as well as Little Karim, who has accompanied many great sportsmen in their over 8,000-metre high-altitude expeditions.

All three men, who have displayed an indomitable spirit of adventure throughout their lives and know that limits are there to be surpassed, have naturally chosen Jaeger-LeCoultre watches as the timekeeping instruments in their daring undertaking. As brand connoisseurs will have probably guessed, the fabled Master Compressor Extreme Lab will naturally be part of the action. This avant-garde timepiece heralds the future of watchmaking, since it operates without any oil or other lubricant. Revolutionary geometry, cutting-edge technical advancements and the use of high-tech materials enable it to withstand extreme conditions such as those prevailing at high altitudes, in order to maintain its remarkable precision at temperatures ranging between - 40°C to °60°C. For a watch developed with genuine passion by a dedicated Jaeger-LeCoultre research unit, the time for real-life adventure has come.

These three exceptional individuals, whose character has been honed by courage and peerless tenacity, have travelled to Nepal to embark upon an adventure that is particularly rare these days: the conquest of a peak never yet climbed. Their Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces, all “super sherpas” in their own right, will accompany them throughout their ascension, constantly reminding them of the pioneering role played by the Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux in constantly pushing back the limits of precision while keeping pace with daring technical accomplishments.

Jaeger-LeCoultre offers two contemporary versions of the legendary Memovox.

Brand enthusiasts and watch collectors had almost given up hope: the legendary Memovox, which had left an indelible mark on some of the brightest hours of the last 60 years, finally celebrates its comeback. Jaeger-LeCoultre waited until the first decade of the 21st century to issue a contemporary version of the Master Memovox, one of its most emblematic creations and symbolic of an action-oriented world. The Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux also proposes a second model inspired by this landmark watch: the Master Memovox International, introduced for the brand’s 125th anniversary in 1958 and also known as the Memovox Worldtimer. This timepiece, which has an alarm disc featuring different towns and regions, is produced in two limited editions in 18-carat pink gold and in steel. And in keeping with the traditions that have guided Jaeger-LeCoultre since its foundation, these new versions of the legendary watch are fitted with the company’s Calibre 956, which is the direct descendant of the first automatic alarm watch movement introduced in 1956.

Constantly improved, it still represents the ultimate in accuracy, robustness and reliability.

The man of action’s watch The Memovox was born in the early 1950s, when people were trying to forget the trauma of World War II and to build new societies. As the world was looking towards the conquest of space, to go ever higher and faster became the slogan. In this context, time became increasingly valuable and mankind in every sphere of activity was required to control it and every other aspect of existence.

The invention of the first automatic movement with alarm function, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 815, was part of this historical context and it’s not a coincidence that it bears the signature of the company that has consistently perceived and expressed the signs of the times. This inherent quality of Jaeger-LeCoultre is accompanied by an extraordinary longterm vision, and as incredible as it might seem in an era characterised by fleeting trends, the 2010 Master Memovox models are fitted with a descendant of this legendary movement which has been unremittingly improved by the factory’s engineers and watchmakers to meet the latest technical requirements. This is a rare example of a movement that’s still in production more than 50 years after its creation. Under the changing designations marking each improved version, it has contributed to the success of such iconic round watches of the Master Control product line as the Master Grand Réveil and the Memovox Deep Sea. The latest generation of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s automatic alarm movement, Calibre 956, constitutes the mechanical heart of these two models. Introduced in 2008, it demonstrates all the qualities required of a mechanical movement of the 21st century in terms of accuracy, reliability and robustness. It has a large free-sprung balance and a winding rotor on ceramic ball bearings that needs no lubrication or maintenance. Its gear wheels have a new kind of tooth profile that ensures smoother transmission. Calibre 956 has a frequency of 28,800 vph and a power reserve of 45 hours. Finally, it is equipped with a rapid date-change mechanism.

Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 Tribute to Geophysic.

Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates a world of exploration and invention with its new rugged chronograph in the Extreme Lab series.

Precision and reliability in time measurement for every situation: those are the core subjects of any watch taken aboard an expedition that is going to set out for an exploration of the boundaries of the world.

During its whole history of 177 years, Jaeger-LeCoultre has dedicated itself to pushing precision and reliability to the highest possible levels in horology.

With this expertise, the Manufacture in Switzerland’s Le Sentier is launching the new Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2, a mechanical Chronograph with GMT-function, especially developed for use in the most extreme environments. This model is a rightful heir to one of the manufacture’s emblematic watches, the 1958 Chronomètre Geophysic. As such, it has an undeniable link with the Master Compressor line, which in the house of Jaeger-LeCoultre stands for die-hard-sports watches with innovative functions and thoroughly tested mechanisms – outfitted with state of the art technology, the latest in materials science and watchmaking development.

The new model unites sporting spirit with technical prowess for a resolutely extreme design, with a maximum of comfort and ergonomics and the right technology to keep the highest possible precision and reliability.

The Reverso Squadra Chronograph GMT Palermo Open is taking the journey to the roots of the Reverso to its most radical level yet. Resolutely avant-garde in terms of its design, its case and its technical characteristics, it innovates on all fronts: an original material for its famous swivel case; a display brilliantly playing on colour contrasts; and the reliability of an exceptional movement featuring additional functions that are must-haves for the professional elite.

A sports watch par excellence, it shows legitimate pride in its status as the only automatic chronograph in the entire Reverso range. The merging of rare talents can indeed work miracles: the finest players of our era and Jaeger-LeCoultre have managed to bridge space and time to connect the first watch with a swivel case conceived on a polo field in India, to the Reverso Squadra unveiled at the Palermo Open polo tournament in this early 21st century.

A fiery temperament Much like the most talented international polo players, the Reverso Squadra Chronograph GMT Palermo Open is gifted with an extreme nature that it is determined to show, starting with its unique case made from vulcanised rubber for the first time in the rich history of the Reverso.

Nonetheless, the complexity of the iconic swivel case represented a particularly tough challenge for the Jaeger-LeCoultre technicians and engineers. They performed meticulous testing before developing dedicated production processes requiring the use of extremely high temperatures and pressures. There was no other way of fulfilling the desire to create such an extraordinarily intense shade of black. The brand designers then immediately resolved to emphasise the superb depth of this colour by creating chromatic compositions on the supporting elements and dial.

Reverso Squadra Chronograph GMT Palermo Open, the ultimate extreme Reverso

RM 017 ULTRA THIN TOURBILLON

The new RM 017 Tourbillon continues the development of the highly successful rectangular case first launched with the RM 016, when its innovative case design extended the collection’s range alongside the iconic Richard Mille tonneau shape.

The RM 017 Tourbillon sets new standards on the horological scene with its ultra thin case enclosing a tourbillion movement, modern elegant lines and its distinctive individual design.

With dimensions of 49.80 mm x 38.00 mm, the RM 017 Tourbillon retains the same case proportions of its predecessor as well as the wrist fitting curvature and tapering specific to the Richard Mille collection.

However, that is where the similarities end: with a total height comprising a mere 8.70 mm, the RM 017’s manual winding movement sets new standards as one of the thinnest tourbillon constructions ever created.

In addition, the RM 017 Tourbillon uses a movement baseplate in carbon nanofiber, a major innovation first tested with great success in the RM 006, an experimental model. The technical results achieved were remarkable and Richard Mille therefore decided to further expand the use of carbon nanofiber, a new material never before applied to horology, to the entire tourbillon range.

The RM 017 also continues Richard Mille’s passion for mechanical innovation. Its function selector is a further development of the mechanism originally implemented in the RM 002.

This concept, based upon a car’s gearbox, offers the selection of three possibilities via a special pusher in the center of the crown: winding, neutral and handsetting. The RM 017 Tourbillon takes this a step further by offering a speed handsetting function, which on pressing the push button allows to rapidly change the hour hand independently of the minute hand.

Cutting edge technology combined with elegance, exceptional lines, useful functionality and unmistakable personality: the RM 017 ultra thin Tourbillon typifies everything that Richard Mille Watches stands for.

RM 022 TOURBILLON “AERODYNE” DUAL TIME ZONE

In 2009, the RM 021 “Aérodyne” greatly impacted the industry on its launch as it encapsulated exemplary RM 022 “Aérodyne” Dual Time zone. As for the RM 021, the new RM 022 communicates space and superso the first watch to combine a dual time zone with an external structure in titanium combined with orthorho complex but also very user-friendly. At the center of the dial a transparent sapphire crystal disc inscribed w transposed on a clear background situated at 03 hours. This dual time zone is easily and quickly adjusted th

modern materials unique to horology and created the subsequent design path to the new onic speed that inspire the brand since 2001. However this Tourbillon has another attribute in that it is ombic* titanium aluminides and carbon nanofibres. This dual time zone indicator is technically extremely with hours permanently rotates through the movement. The digits on the disc are apparent only when hrough the finely finished pusher situated at 09 hours. Each impulse adds an extra hour to the time zone.

PRESENTING THE NEW DIVER’S WATCH RICHARD MILLE RM 028 At the beginning of 2009, Richard Mille entered the world of the ocean depths with his premiere diver’s watch, the RM 025 tourbillion chronograph. This exceptional piece also marked the first entrance of a round case within the collection. Today the brand presents a new automatic diver’s watch, the RM 028, in a slightly smaller diameter of 47 mm.

Following the lines set out by the RM 025, the new RM 028 with its exceptional case and skeletonized movement possesses all the incontestable qualities that typify the watches of Richard Mille.

Following diver’s watch ISO norms 6425 with its water resistance of 300 meters (30 ATM) and a unidirectional bezel, the seemingly simple lines of the round case of the RM 028 conceal a considerable amount of technical know-how. The exceptional water resistance is achieved with a three part case construction and torque screws, with complete integration of the lugs into the case system.

Turning unidirectionally to prevent miscalculations whilst diving, the bezel is composed of three sections assembled with 22 torque screws, making it impossible to accidentally dislodge from the case.

The skeleonized automatic movement of the RM 028 utilizes a rotor with variable geometry, a major innovation of Richard Mile that allows the level of automatic winding to be adjusted to the user’s lifestyle via the setting of two 18ct white gold wings.

Like the RM 025, dedicated to the marine world of diving, the automatic RM 028 is in all ways an integral part of the collection, immediately identifiable as a typical creation of Richard Mille Watches.

AUTOMATIC DIVER’S WATCH RM 028 Skeletonized automatic movement with variable rotor geometry, hours, minutes, central seconds and date.

Dimensions: diameter 47.00 mm x 14.60 mm (thickest point) Available in titanium with titanium lugs and rubber bracelet.

Ulysse Nardin Presents: Moonstruck.

Seventeen years after the completion of the historical astronomical “Trilogy of Time” Ulysse Nardin has developed another revolutionary astronomical timepiece with the distinct DNA of Dr. Ludwig Oechslin.

Dr. Ludwig Oechslin’s concept focused on the system of Sun, Earth and Moon, concentrating on the scientifically accurate depiction of the moon phase, and the global influence of lunar and solar gravitation, resulting in the ebb and flow of the tides.

By combining the movement of two rotating discs in one display, the moon phase indication is so precise that more than 100,000 years will have to pass before it shows a full moon rather than a new moon (or vice versa). The Moonstruck simulates the rotation of the Moon around the Earth, as well as the apparent movement of the Sun around the globe. The latter is shown by another disc, rotating once every 24 hours. This permits the determination of the current moon phase in relation to any location in the world.

The Moonstruck also shows the global dynamics of tides that depend upon the gravitational effects of Moon and Sun. This revolutionary mechanical wristwatch illustrates the current tidal status and trend in relation to specific coastlines or oceans. The cumulative influences of the Moon and Sun which result in spring tides are also clearly shown.

The Moonstruck is a practical travel companion. It features a pointer calendar and a quicksetting device to adjust the hour hand forward and backward to any desired time zone by pressing the pushers plus and minus located at 8 and 10 o’clock.

The Moonstruck is a Ulysse Nardin in-house development. The manufacture caliber UN 106 features a silicium escapement and a hairspring made with the latest silicium technique.

The Moonstruck is available in a limited edition of 500 pieces in 18 ct red gold and 500 pieces in platinum.

GINOTTI Appelmansstraat 3 2018 Antwerpen tel. +32(0)3 231 56 92 fax +32(0)3 232 75 50 mobile +32 475 255 692

Vertu Ayxta