T R I E D & T E S T E D R E S TAU R A N T
Mimi Kakushi, Dubai B A C K G R O U N D Mimi Kakushi takes guests back in time to an age when jazz was swinging into 1920s Osaka, merging modern art and western fashion into the nightlife and street life of Japan. The space, imagined by the team behind La Cantine du Faubourg, Ninive and Twiggy by La Cantine, pays homage to the modernist Mavo movement, celebrating the radical and avant-garde. This artistic anarchy, that peaked in the 1920s, shattered conventions and confronted traditions, and that’s what the restaurant at Four Seasons has set out to do. It has succeeded, with the immersive restaurant and bar ranked 20th at the first MENA’s 50 Best Restaurant awards, staged in Abu Dhabi last month. 66
W H A T ’ S I T L I K E ? Mimi Kakushi describes itself as Orient Nouveau – and that’s a good call. When you step inside, 1920s Japan beckons in an interior design masterpiece, with stunning décor dominated by tones of brown and gold that ooze authenticity. There is an air of intimacy, with fringed and sheer curtains, well-placed seating, including booths, so no matter where you sit, it feels private. Low-level lighting, palm-style Asian plants and bamboo touches in furnishings and menu holders set the classic-with-a-twist Japanese scene. There’s
APRIL 2022
HOURS Daily, 6pm to 2am; Friday and Saturday brunch from 12 noon to 4pm
LOCATION Restaurant Village, Four Seasons Resort, Jumeirah, Dubai
CONTACT BOOK@MIMKAKUSHI.AE; +971 (0)4 379 4811; mimikakushi.ae
an air of laid-back sophistication combined with a buzz of excited diners who are thoroughly enjoying every bite.
T H E F O O D Mimi Kakushi claims to be
the best Japanese restaurant in Dubai and having dined at competing venues, I would argue that yes, it does have that edge. Every dish was prepared and presented to perfection, packed with a fusion of wellbalanced delicate flavours. The menu theme is “playful twists to well-known Japanese classics”, and so hot and cold sharing plates of sashimi, sushi, tempura and gyoza are good starting points. My small-dish favourites included Wagyu beef tataki with yuzu daikon and truffle ponzu, which was melt in the mouth; crispy fried squid with jalapeno and Japanese curry dip, which was super moorish; while the miso-glazed eggplant, yuzu daikon and crispy sweet potato – both vegan and gluten-free – was bursting with flavour. The Wagyu and foie gras gyoza with pickled cucumber and truffle
This is contemporary Japanese fine dining at its best soy butter (pictured) is a top seller, but just as delicious was the miso-marinated black cod and tiger prawn with citrus miso gyoza. Other popular dishes include larger plates such as oven-baked black cod or Kagoshima wagyu beef, and of course, dessert is a must. There are many authentic Japanese options but highlights for me were mango and matcha cake with pina colada ice cream and mango tuile – there was nothing left on my plate as it was light, moist and refreshing. Of course, Mochi is a real palate cleanser and at Mimi, you get three delicious flavours – strawberry, mango and chocolate. I could not fault this cuisine – I just wish I’d had room for more.
T H E S E R V I C E It’s really on point. Waiting staff are courteous, professional, attentive and knowledgeable about the dishes. They are happy to make suggestions to suit your palate and dietary requirements. T H E W O R K S P A C E Best for a client
lunch; when you really want to pull out all the stops to impress.
V E R D I C T This is contemporary Japanese fine dining at its best and the place to wow your clients, or to enjoy a special meal with friends and family. Just plan your transport options carefully so you don’t get stuck waiting for your car, taxi or Uber at busy times. Gemma Greenwood
