Inflight magazine CROATIA Autumn 2018 by Croatia Airlines

Jesen _ Autumn 2018

Putni Ä?asopis _ Inflight Magazine

VaĹĄ vlastiti primjerak _ Your personal copy

A. Grubelić

Poštovani putnici!

Dear passengers!

Za nama je još jedna uspješna turistička sezona, a pred nama jesen i jesenski broj našega časopisa. Nadam se da vam je ljetno razdoblje donijelo obilje lijepih trenutaka, a mnogi od vas letjeli su s nama, na čemu vam od srca zahvaljujem. Osobito me raduje i to što smo imali čast našim zrakoplovom, posebno brendiranim za tu priliku, prevesti sjajnu hrvatsku nogometnu reprezentaciju, svjetske nogometne viceprvake, naše Vatrene. O njima objavljujemo reportažu u ovome broju našega putnog časopisa koji je upravo pred vama. No neće nedostajati ni drugih zanimljivih tema. Upoznat ćemo vas s Deanom Skirom, dizajnerom svjetla, dobitnikom mnogih nagrada. Drago nam je što ćemo pridonijeti i boljem upoznavanju s arhitektom Ottom Wagnerom, čiji je rad uvelike povezan s Hrvatskom pa hrvatsko veleposlanstvo u Republici Austriji o njemu organizira izložbu. Predstavljamo biser otoka Brača, Supetar, romantični gradić Skradin i njegovu gastronomsku ponudu, ali i nove splitske restorane. Iz Splita smo ljetos prvi put letjeli u Kopenhagen, jedan od najatraktivnijih europskih gradova. U ovome broju predstavljamo upravo Kopenhagen, i to njegov suvremeniji dio, a do toga našeg odredišta u zimskome dijelu godine možete letjeti iz Zagreba. Ulazimo u hladnije razdoblje, ali i to vrijeme donosi mnoge posebne trenutke, na primjer posjet nadaleko poznatome zagrebačkom adventu. Dođite i provedite neko vrijeme u Zagrebu, zacijelo ćete uživati.

Another successful tourist season is behind us, with autumn and the autumn issue of our magazine here. I hope that you’ve had plenty of wonderful moments during the summer, with many of you having flown with us, for which I thank you wholeheartedly. I’m particularly delighted that Croatia Airlines had the honour to fly the brilliant Croatian national football team, the vice champions of the world, our Vatreni, aboard our aircraft which was specially decorated for the occasion. We’re bringing a story on them in our inflight magazine you’re holding in your hands, which abounds in other interesting topics as well. We’ll introduce you to Dean Skira, a lighting designer and winner of many awards. We’re happy to contribute to your getting to know the architect Otto Wagner, whose work is linked to Croatia in large measure, and so the Croatian Embassy in the Republic of Austria is organising an exhibition of his work. We’re also presenting the pearl of the Island of Brač, Supetar, the romantic town of Skradin and its culinary offer, as well as Split’s new restaurants. From Split, we flew to Copenhagen, one of the most attractive European cities, for the first time this summer. In this issue, we’re presenting Copenhagen and its most modern parts. During winter, you can fly to this destination of ours from Zagreb. We’re entering the colder period of the year, but this season also brings many special moments, such as Zagreb’s wellknown Advent fair. Come and spend some time in Zagreb, you’re bound to enjoy it.

Unaprijed se radujem našim novim zajedničkim letovima i zahvaljujem vam što letite s nama.

I thank you for flying with us and I look forward to your choosing to fly with us again.

Jasmin Bajić Predsjednik Uprave / President & CEO

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

SADRŽAJ CONTENTS

Razgovor Dean Skira, čarobnjak svjetla Dean Skira, dizajner svjetla, dobitnik je brojnih prestižnih nagrada kojima su se ovoga ljeta pridružile još dvije svjetskih strukovnih udruga. Interview Dean Skira, a wizard of light Dean Skira, a lighting designer, is the winner of many prestigious awards, to which two awards by international professional associations were added this summer.

Baština Otto Wagner i rađanje hrvatske moderne arhitekture Arhitekt Otto Wagner povezan je s Hrvatskom pa hrvatsko veleposlanstvo u Republici Austriji o njemu organizira izložbu. Heritage Otto Wagner and the birth of modern Croatian architecture Otto Wagner is linked to Croatia, which is why the Croatian Embassy in Austria is organising an exhibition of his work.

Jesen/Autumn 2018 www.croatiaairlines.com

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak This is your personal copy 2 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

34 Obala Romantični GRAD Skradin Skradin je grad bliskog susreta prekrasnoga plavog mora, modre rijeke, zelenoga gorja i mističnoga jezera. Coast Skradin, a romantic town Skradin is a town of the close encounter of a brilliantly blue sea, a blue river, green hills and a mystical lake.

Gastro Novi splitski gastronomski identitet Predstavljamo dio nove vinske i gastronomske scene novoga Splita, suvremenoga, ali i dalje svoga. Gastro Split’s new culinary identity We’re presenting a part of the new food and wine scene of new Split, contemporary, but still its own.

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

Islands Supetar, the white gate of Brač Everyone enjoys Supetar and its surroundings. Supetar keeps on attracting not only those who’ve already gotten to know it well, but new visitors as well.

Š. Lugarov

Otoci Supetar, bijela vrata Brača Svi uživaju u Supetru i u njegovoj okolici. Stalno privlači nove posjetitelje, ali i stari mu se vjerno vraćaju.

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel.: +385-1-616-00-66

e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Naša odredišta Kopenhagen − DOLETITE I OSJETITE ŠTO JE TO HYGGE Arhitekti, umjetnici, dizajneri, hipsteri i putnici, svi žele vidjeti Kopenhagen, prijestolnicu najsretnijih ljudi na svijetu.

URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Jasmin Bajić

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Our destinations FLY TO Copenhagen AND EXPERIENCE HYGGE! Architects, artists, designers, hipsters and travellers, they all want to see Copenhagen, the capital of the happiest people in the world.

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana Ćulumović Šoštarić, Davor Janušić, Anamarija Jurinjak, Zlata Prpić

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

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Prijelom/Layout

Moda Saša Hortig: slow fashion koncept Nadareni mladić iz Đakova ostvario je uzlet u Hrvatskoj, a profesionalni put odveo ga je u Švedsku.

Nenad VujoπeviÊ Direktor prodaje i marketinga/ Director of Sales and Marketing Boris Kolka

Lektor/Proofreader

Fashion Saša Hortig: The slow fashion concept The career of this gifted young man from Đakovo took off in Croatia first, after which his career path took him to Sweden.

Nevena Erak Camaj Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Ana Janković

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines

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Gabrijela Lochert

Podržali smo Oni su osvojili naša srca Hrvatska nogometna reprezentacija, sjajni Vatreni, nakon osvajanja srebrne medalje u Rusiji vratila se u Hrvatsku našim zrakoplovom.

tel.: +385-1-616-00-17

Lending our support They have won our hearts After having won the silver medal in Russia, the Croatian national football team, the brilliant Vatreni, flew back to Zagreb aboard a special Croatia Airlines flight.

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e-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel.: +385-1-616-01-02 Priprema/Prepress Zrinski d.d., »akovec Tisak/Press Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

CHECKPOINT o, ne memory cards Riječ je o zabavnoj igri za djecu i odrasle − uparite vesele hrvatske koze ili naučite imena i površinu 10 hrvatskih otoka. Nakon igre kartice možete koristiti i kao podmetače za čaše. U aluminijskoj kutijici pronađite 20 kartica za igru memorije. This is a fun game for both kids and adults − match happy Croatian goats or learn the names and the surface area of 10 Croatian islands. The cards can also be used as coasters. There are 2 versions of a set of 20 memory cards in an aluminum case. info@oneradiona.com

BITE ART, Umjetnička poslastica An artsy treat Originalan suvenir i poslovni poklon u obliku tradicionalnih hrvatskih paprenjaka koji su obogaćeni jestivim reprodukcijama hrvatskih umjetničkih djela. Ambalaža se nakon konzumacije slastice pretvara u okvir za slike sadržavajući po četiri reprodukcije slika renomiranih hrvatskih umjetnika. S. Kovačić (Bite Art)

An original souvenir and a corporate gift in the form of traditional Croatian pepper cookies enriched with edible reproductions of artworks by Croatian artists. After the treat has been consumed, the gift box transforms into a picture frame with four reproductions of paintings by renowned Croatian artists. www.biteart.hr

Modul Vrhunska kvaliteta prožeta modernim dizajnom oživljuje svaki interijer. Fotelja Chiara izrađena je od najkvalitetnijih materijala te pruža izrazitu udobnost i dugotrajnost. Personalizirajte svoju fotelju odabirom tkanine i boje nogica. The finest quality imbued with modern design enlivens every interior. The Chiara armchair is made of the highest quality materials, offering great comfort and durability. You can personalise your armchair with your choice of fabric and leg colour. www.modul-contract.hr

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Vinoteka Winelovers Winelovers fine wine shop Vinoteka Winelovers u Martićevoj ulici u centru Zagreba već je godinama nezaobilazno mjesto za sve ljubitelje finih vina. Izaberite birana hrvatska i međunarodna vina, maslinova ulja, destilate, čaše, vinski pribor i dr. Preko puta vinoteke otvoren je i novi Vivat wine bar. The Winelovers fine wine shop on Martićeva Street in the city centre of Zagreb has for years been a must-visit spot for all fine wine connoisseurs. Choose from a selection of Croatian and international wines, olive oils, distillates, glasses, wine accessories, etc. Across the street from the wine shop, the new Vivat Wine Bar was opened. www.vivat-finavina.hr

Zagrebački kreativni dnevnik Zagreb Creative Diary

Uz elemente dnevnika, spomenara i leksikona, Zagrebački kreativni dnevnik na zabavan način nudi sadržaje iz područja likovne umjetnosti, kulture, povijesti i suvremenosti Zagreba. U prodaji su izdanja na hrvatskom i engleskom jeziku.

In addition to elements of a diary and a scrapbook, the Zagreb Creative Diary brings contents in the fields of Zagreb’s visual arts, culture, history and modernity in a fun way. The Zagreb Creative Diary is available in the Croatian and English language. www.zagrebcreativediary.com

Designdotdotdot Riječ je o brendu kućnih uporabnih predmeta dizajniranih i proizvedenih u Hrvatskoj. Svojom multifunkcionalnošću, asocijativnošću i taktilnošću pričaju priče kojima kroz upotrebu i vi pridonosite. Periska je skulpturalna zdjela za voće u kojoj se zbog boljeg prozračivanja duže zadržava svježina voća. This is a brand of household goods designed and manufactured in Croatia. With their multifunctionality, associativity and tactility, they tell stories that you too contribute to by using them. Periska is a sculptural fruit bowl which keeps the freshness of fruit longer thanks to its airing system. web.facebook.com/designdotdotdot

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

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CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

RAZGOVOR INTERVIEW

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Svjetleći divovi i Kuća svjetla u Puli, tunel Eurasia, hotel Four Seasons u Azerbajdžanu, hotelski kompleks u uvali Čikat na otoku Lošinju, Hendrixov most u Zagrebu svojim inovativnim i maštovitim osvjetljenjem oduzimaju dah i mame osmijeh na lice. Njihov je autor Dean Skira, dizajner svjetla iz Pule, dobitnik brojnih prestižnih nagrada.

Piše/By _ Mirjana Brabec Fotografija/Photo _ Vjekoslav Skledar

K. Lighting

The Lighting Giants and the House of Light in Pula, the Eurasia Tunnel, the Four Seasons Hotel in Azerbaijan, a hotel complex in Čikat Bay on the Island of Lošinj, Hendrix Bridge in Zagreb with its innovative and imaginative lighting take your breath away and put a smile on your face. Their author is Dean Skira, a lighting designer from Pula and winner of many prestigious awards.

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01 Hotelski kompleks u uvali Čikat u Malom Lošinju A hotel complex in Čikat Bay in Mali Lošinj 02 Svijetleći divovi u brodogradilištu Uljanik u Puli The Lighting Giants of Uljanik Shipyard in Pula

ga zelenog mosta preko rijeke Save.  Studij dizajna upisali ste u New Yorku sredinom 1980-ih, kad je malo tko uopće znao da postoji zanimanje dizajnera svjetla. Što Vas je na to potaknulo? − Tada nisam znao da se želim baviti svjetlom; želio sam se baviti profesijama povezanima s arhitekturom i formom, to je bila moja ljubav od ranoga djetinjstva. A kad sam otkrio da svjetlo ima formu koja je nevidljiva ali snažno utječe na naše emocije, što je paradoksalno, to me jako zaintrigiralo i privuklo. Na Fashion Institute of Technology upisao sam studij dizajna interijera jer je to bila jedina škola koja je sva četiri semestra imala rasvjetu kao predmet, a predavači su bili profesionalni

H.Serdar

L. Pretegiani

03 Inovativni dizajner snažne imaginacije u svojem uredu u Kući svjetla The innovative designer of a fertile imagination in his office at the House of Light

Dean Skira pokazujući nam svoje rukom nacrtane skice najzahtjevnijeg projekta koji je ikada osmislio i opisujući ljepote zamišljenih vizura. − Laserski smo skenirali cijeli grad i napravili simulaciju koja izgleda čarobno. Pročelja, krovovi, padine, ceste, zidine, baš svaka kuća − sve je tim projektom obuhvaćeno. Kroz tu priču htio bih pokazati na koji način svjetlo može oplemeniti postojeću strukturu, istaknuti i podignuti vrijednost cijeloga grada i omogućiti ljudima da dožive nešto posebno, a da pritom stanovnici turistički vrednuju svoj grad izvan zidina − sa zanosom govori Skira o svojem projektu osvjetljenja Motovuna, magičnoga srednjovjekovnog gradića u njegovoj rodnoj Istri, koji će

ean Skira, dizajner svjetla iz Pule, dobitnik je brojnih prestižnih nagrada kojima su se ovoga ljeta pridružile i dvije nagrade svjetskih strukovnih udruga: Illuminating Engineering Society (IES) za svjetlosni dizajn Hendrixova mosta u Zagrebu i International Association of Lighting Designers (IALD) za projekt kružnog toka u Puli. − Svjetlo volim uspoređivati s glazbom. Oboje je nevidljivo i snažno utječe na emocije. No dok skladatelj svoju skladbu može ispisati notama pa je može reproducirati svatko tko zna svirati određeni instrument, dizajner svjetla ne raspolaže simbolima kojima bi mogao dočarati svjetlosnu kompoziciju koju želi stvoriti − kaže

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biti tema njegova predavanja na IALDovu skupu dizajnera u Barceloni. Skira je vizionar snažne imaginacije, umjetnik svjetla kojega pokreću strast i ljubav prema svjetlosnim čarolijama, ali i golemo znanje i iskustvo koji mu omogućuju da maštanja pretoči u stvarnost. Sigurni smo da će to biti tako i s projektom osvjetljenja Motovuna iako je svjestan zahtjevnosti ostvarenja projekta te mnogih financijskih, operativnih i tehnoloških prepreka koje bi trebalo svladati da bi se projekt ostvario. S pulskim dizajnerom razgovarali smo uoči primitka nagrade IES-a u Bostonu za izniman pristup dizajnu rasvjete uz uporabu svjetla kao umjetničke forme u projektu Hendrixova mosta u Zagrebu, željezničko-

dizajneri svjetla s najmanje deset godina iskustva u privatnoj praksi.  Tih godina bio je to ekscentričan izbor… − Pa i danas je kod nas tako. U Europi studiji dizajna svjetla odnedavno postoje, koliko znam, samo u Njemačkoj, Engleskoj i u Milanu. U New Yorku sam sasvim slučajno susreo dizajnere svjetla s dugogodišnjim iskustvom i vrlo sam brzo ušao u taj svijet, to je za mene bilo otkriće. I danas volim istraživati dubinu svjetla, izvan forme same svjetiljke. Mi dizajneri svjetla u biti se bavimo ljudima, a ne stvarima. Kad ne bi bilo ljudske potrebe da živimo noću, svjetlo ne bi bilo ni potrebno. Zato sva svoja predavanja završavam reče-

nicom: Svjetlo nije važno za arhitekturu nego za ljude koji u njoj žive.  Iako je svjetlost bitna za naš život i snažno utječe na našu psihu, o njoj javnost ne zna mnogo. Svojim svjetlosnim kreacijama Vi nas podsjećate na to da funkcionalnost nije presudna. − Točnije bi bilo reći da nije presudna količina svjetla nego njegova kvaliteta, no većina ljudi ne zna koje komponente svjetlo čine kvalitetnim. O svjetlu razmišljamo na temelju količine, a kako je količinu svjetla vrlo jednostavno postići, dizajn svjetla smatra se nadogradnjom ili luksuzom i većina ljudi o tome i ne razmišlja. Ako vam količina svjetla omogućuje da vidite, vaša je osnovna potreba zadovoljena. No mnogo je elemenata koji utječu na kvalite-

kopira dosta proizvođača. Svjetiljka Trick nastala je kasnije i ima potpuno drugačiju funkciju. Zahvaljujući Tricku nastala je fraza grafičko svjetlo, koja se danas rabi u cijelome svijetu jer njezino svjetlo omogućuje kontrolirane linearne snopove svjetla kojima se iscrtavaju linije u raznim kompozicijama. Kad ugasite svjetlo, te grafičke kompozicije više nema. Moj najnoviji rad, za koji smo predali patentnu prijavu, svjetlost je bez svjetiljke. Riječ je o optičkom sustavu, vrlo fokusiranom snopu svjetlosti koja pod širokim kutom izlazi kroz mali otvor u stropu.  Koliko traje proces patentiranja? − Tri godine. Nažalost, danas je intelektualno vlasništvo gotovo nemoguće zaštititi. Sve moje svjetiljke već su nakon godinu

tu svjetla, na naš doživljaj prostora i naše emocionalno stanje. Svjetlošću možemo jako utjecati na osjećaj i atmosferu u prostoru. Zamislite kako biste se osjećali kad bi vas u restoranu u koji ste došli na romantičnu večeru dočekalo svjetlo kao da ste u garaži. Vaš vizualni i emocionalni doživljaj ne može biti isti kao kad se taj restoran osvijetli primjereno funkcionalnosti prostora, dakle na topao, akcentni način.  Kako ste osvijetlili svoj dom? − U svim svojim projektima, pa i u svojem domu, nastojim pomoću svjetla omogućiti različite scenografije, ovisno o načinu na koji se prostor koristi: gledate li televiziju, čitate ili usisavate. Uvijek ostavljam mogućnost kreiranja scena. Svrhovito svjetlo

njezin izgled nego kako ona funkcionira, i zato sve svjetiljke koje sam dizajnirao imaju sasvim određenu funkciju. Forma svjetla koja iz njih izlazi važnija mi je od forme svjetiljke.  Po čemu su Vaše svjetiljke Lun-up i Trick inovativne i jedinstvene? Prva osvjetljuje nagrađivani Parco della Luna u talijanskome gradu Recanatiju, druga tunel Eurasia ispod Bospora. − Za obje svjetiljke dobili smo mnogo nagrada. Kad sam dizajnirao danas već poznatu svjetiljku Lun-up, njezina forma pratila je formu svjetla koju sam očekivao na objektu koji sam želio osvijetliti i zato je ona imala polukružan oblik koji je do danas ostao jedinstven, a koji

dana bile kopirane, i nisu ih kopirali nepoznati proizvođači nego veliki brendovi, koji su napravili minimalne korekcije na svojim proizvodima i time izbjegli patentnu zaštitu, što cijeli proces zaštite intelektualnog vlasništva dovodi u pitanje.  Unatoč tomu očito uživate u svojem poslu i timskom radu. Vaši projekti kao da su nastali iz igre… − Istina, uživam kad se okupi tim suradnika koji čak i nisu istomišljenici, ali svatko daje svoj doprinos projektu. Kompleksnu i tehnički zahtjevnu ideju ne možete realizirati individualno. Primjerice, na projektu Bosporskog tunela surađivali su arhitekti, statičari, elektroinženjeri... U velikim i zahtjevnim projektima trebaju

V. Skledar

prostor osvjetljuje, ono je uvijek istog intenziteta bez obzira na to za što prostor koristite, no ugođaj proizlazi iz kvalitete svjetla. Boja svjetla, ne u smislu toga je li ona crvena ili plava, nego u smislu topline svjetla, mora odgovarati količini svjetla. Što je više svjetla, poželjno je da je ono hladnije, a ako ga je manje, poželjno je da je toplije. To je povezano s našom biologijom jer smo naviknuli na to da Sunce na izlasku i zalasku teži crvenoj, a u podne je nebo plavo. Ta se biološka ljudska komponenta neće promijeniti dok živimo pod Suncem. Jednako je i u noćnim satima: što je svjetlo tiše, ono je toplije; jako svjetlo ističe hladniju komponentu. Na te nijanse jako obraćam pozornost. Svjetiljka je za mene sporedna stvar, nije mi važan

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02 Skirina svjetlosna instalacija na Festivalu svjetla u Zagrebu Skira’s lighting installation at the Festival of Lights in Zagreb

začetku razraditi do punog potencijala bez obzira na financije i cijenu realizacije. Poslije se procesima ideja usmjeri do točke u kojoj će biti prihvaćena − to je također kreativan proces. Imam sreću da investitor često realizira ideju kakva je bila izvorno zamišljena, poput projekta meduza na Lošinju.  Prvi projekt koji vas je proslavio izvan naših granica bili su Svjetleći divovi, kranovi u pulskom brodogradilištu koje ste osvijetlili na radost Puljana i njihovih gostiju.. − To mi je jedan od najdražih projekata, zato što su ga Puležani prihvatili kao svoj, a nekoliko prvih nagrada na svjetskoj razini i promocija projekta kao turističke atrakcije Pulu su uvrstili na kartu svijeta.

D. Bartolić

03 Kružni tok u Puli A roundabout in Pula

se ističe. Kad vlak prođe, ponovo svijetli most do dolaska sljedeće kompozicije. Nadahnulo me to što je trebalo osvijetliti infrastrukturni objekt koji je izgrađen zbog željezničkog prometa, što znači da je umjesto mosta glavni protagonist vlak. Njemu smo dali malo veselja svjetlom u boji koje mu stvara simpatičan efekt. Hendrixov most prvi je u nizu; zagrebački mostovi uskoro će imati novo svjetlo.  Što Vas je nadahnulo za tunel Eurasia? − Nadahnuće je proizašlo iz amuleta, plavog oka koje nas čuva, suvenira koji u Istanbulu možete kupiti na svakom koraku, i Fatimine ruke, također njihova tradicionalnog suvenira. Amulet me nadahnuo na to da svjetlo bude plave boje, a uzorak

Kinorama press

01 Most Hendrix u Zagrebu, nagrada Illuminating Engineering Society 2018. Hendrix Bridge in Zagreb awarded by the Illuminating Engineering Society in 2018

vam stručnjaci. No osnovni koncept i ideja uvijek imaju lidera. Ideja uvijek ima poruku i ako svi shvate tu poruku, onda je rezultat dobar. U timu ne može surađivati netko tko se ne poistovjećuje s projektom. Jeste li vidjeli kuću u vodi Olafura Eliassona? On to nije mogao napraviti sam, ali duša tog objekta sasvim je sigurno proizašla iz njegove glave…  U čemu je posebnost Vašeg projekta osvjetljenja Hendrixova mosta? − Most ima specifičan luk i Langerovu gredu koju smo osvijetlili statično, bijelim svjetlom koje naglašava njegovu formu i prepoznatljivu zelenu boju, a u trenutku kad dođe vlak − čiji dolazak i odlazak prate dva radara − most nestaje, a vlak

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u vezu ruke nastojao sam reproducirati dizajnom svjetla. Uspio sam to ostvariti zahvaljujući svojoj svjetiljci Trick, koja je tada tek izašla na tržište. Investitor nije mogao vjerovati da ćemo uspjeti.  Među rijetkima ste koji su se vratili kući u vrijeme rata iako ste u Americi tada već imali svoju tvrtku, napredovali u karijeri… Novi početak sigurno nije bio lak? − Iskreno, u to vrijeme prioriteti su mi se potpuno promijenili i tada sam se posvetio kreativnosti, učenju i užitku koji donosi ostvarenje ideje. Nisam se usredotočio na profit ili na vrijednost novca, i to me oslobodilo da svu energiju usmjerim na stvaranje. Smatram da je važno ideju u

Tišina koja je nastala u trenutku kad su na dizalicama upaljena svjetla, dok je to gledalo 15.000 ljudi, najveći je kompliment koji sam dobio.  Na kojim novim projektima što ćemo ih uskoro vidjeti sada radite? − Dovršava se realizacija manirističkog dvorca Palazzo Te u Mantovi, kao i osvjetljenje zidina staroga grada u Firenci. Radimo na dva važna i velika projekta u Rusiji, osvjetljenju stadiona i jednog od tri najljepša nebodera na svijetu, Evolution Tower. Nedavno je realizirana najveća sinagoga u Jeruzalemu prema našem projektu. Raduje me što imamo dosta važnih i velikih projekata u Hrvatskoj za koje će se sigurno čuti u budućnosti. Velika mi je

D. Kalogjera

ean Skira, a lighting designer from Pula, is the winner of many prestigious awards, to which two awards given by international professional associations were added this summer. Namely, the Illuminating Engineering Society (IES) for his lighting design of Hendrix Bridge in Zagreb and the International Association of Lighting Designers (IALD) for his lighting design of a roundabout in Pula. − I like to compare light with music. Both are invisible and affect the emotions powerfully. But, while composers can write their musical compositions in notes, meaning that anyone who knows how to play an

doxical, this really intrigued and attracted me. At the Fashion Institute of Technology, I enrolled in interior design studies because that was the only school that had lighting as a subject during all four semesters, taught by lecturers who were professional lighting designers with at least ten years of professional experience in the private sector.  In those years, that must have been an eccentric choice, right? − This is so even today in Croatia. In Europe, lighting design studies have only relatively recently been introduced, as far as I know, and this only in Germany, England and Milan. In New York, I had met lighting designers with many years of experience quite by chance, and so I had quickly entered the world of lighting design, which

D. Bartolić

special, and the residents to appraise their town beyond its walls − Skira talks with great verve about his lighting design project of Motovun, a magical Medieval town in his native Istria, which will be the subject of a lecture he’ll give in Barcelona at IALD’s conference. Skira is a visionary with a fertile imagination, an artist of light driven by a passion and love of the magic of light, as well as by extensive knowledge and experience that enables him to turn imagination into reality. We’re certain that this will also be the case with the Motovun project, even though he’s aware of the complexity of the project and of the many financial, operational and technological obstacles that have to be overcome for the project to be completed. We talked with Skira ahead

želja da se ostvare; bitno je da vrijednosti  koje imamo izađu iz tame.

instrument can reproduce them, lighting designers have no symbols at their disposal with which to document lighting compositions they want to create − says Dean Skira, showing us his hand-drawn sketches of the most demanding project he has ever designed while describing the beauty of the vistas he’s conceived. − We’ve laser scanned the entire city and have created a simulation that looks magical. Facades, rooftops, slopes, roads, walls, literally each and every house − all has been included in this project. Through this story, I’d like to show the way in which light can enhance existing structures, highlight and add value to the whole city, giving people the chance to experience something

of his receiving the IES Award in Boston for his exceptional approach to lighting design of the Hendrix Bridge (a bridge across the Sava River in Zagreb) project, in which he used light as an art form.  You enrolled in design studies in New York in the mid-1980s, when almost no one knew at all that there was a profession called lighting design. What prompted you to study design? − I didn’t know at the time that I wanted to do lighting design. I wanted to go into a profession related to architecture and form, this was my love since early childhood. When I discovered that light has a form which is invisible, but which influences our emotions in a powerful way, which is para-

was a discovery for me. Even today, I like exploring the depth of light outside the form of the lamp itself. We lighting designers essentially deal with people, and not things. If people didn’t have the need to live by night, light wouldn’t be necessary. This is why I end all my lectures with the following sentence: Light is not important for architecture, but for the people who live in it.  Although lighting is important in our lives and strongly affects our psyche, the public doesn’t know much about it. With your lighting creations, you remind us that functionality is not a crucial factor. − It would be much more accurate to say that what’s crucial is not the quantity of

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Tunel Eurasia ispod Bospora Skira je osvijetlio iznutra i na ulazu Skira illuminated the inside and the entrance of Eurasia Tunnel below the Bosporus

your visual and emotional experience can’t be the same as when this restaurant was illuminated in a way which is appropriate to the function of its space, hence in a warm, accentuated way.  How did you illuminate your home? − In all my projects, including my home, I try to set up different scenographies by means of light, depending on what a given space is used for: are you watching television, reading or vacuuming. I always leave room for the creation of scenes. Purposeful light illuminates space, it’s always of the same intensity regardless of what you use a given space for, but the ambiance comes from the quality of light. The colour of light, not in terms of whether it’s red or blue, but in terms of its warmth, must correspond to

light, but its quality, but most people don’t know which elements make up the quality of light. We think about light in terms of quantity, and considering that it’s easy to achieve a certain amount of light, lighting design is considered to be an upgrade or a luxury that most people don’t think about. If a given amount of light enables you to see, your basic need is satisfied. But there are many elements that affect the quality of light, our experience of space and our emotional state. We can influence our emotions and atmosphere in space with light rather powerfully. Imagine how you would feel if you came to a restaurant to have a romantic dinner and you were greeted by light typical of a garage. Both

the amount of light. Cold light is preferred if there’s lots of light, and if there’s less light, it should be warmer. This is related to our biology because we are accustomed to the fact that, at dawn and at dusk, the sun gravitates towards the red end of the spectrum, and that at high noon the sky is blue. This biological, human component won’t change for as long as we live under the Sun. Night-time light functions the same way: quieter light is warmer, while bright light highlights its cooler component. I pay a lot of attention to these shades. Lamps are of secondary importance to me, what’s important to me is not the way they look, but the way they work, which is why all the lamps I’ve designed have a very specific

K. Lighting

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function. The shape of light that emanates from a lamp is more important to me than the shape of the lamp itself.  What makes your Lun-up and Trick lamps innovative and unique? The former illuminates the award-winning Parco della Luna project in the Italian town of Recanati, the latter the Eurasia Tunnel below the Bosporus. − Both lamps have received many awards. When designing the today already wellknown Lun-up lamp, its shape followed the shape of light I expected to achieve on the object that I wanted to illuminate, and so I gave it a semi-circular shape which has remained unique to date, and which many manufacturers have been copying. The Trick lamp was created later and has a completely different function. Thanks to the Trick lamp, the term graphic light was coined, which is today used all over the world because its light allows you to have controlled linear beams of light with which you get to draw lines in different compositions. When you turn the light off, this graphic composition stops existing. My latest work, for which we have filed a patent application, is light without a lamp. It’s an optical system, a highly focused beam of light that emanates through a small opening in the ceiling at a wide angle.  How long does the patenting process take? − Three years. Sadly, intellectual property is virtually impossible to protect today. All of my lamps were copied after as little as a year, and they weren’t copied by unknown manufacturers, but by big brands, who introduced only minor changes to their products, thereby avoiding patent protection, which brings the whole process of intellectual property protection into question.  Despite it all, you obviously do enjoy your work and teamwork. Your projects seem to have resulted from playing around... − True, I do enjoy bringing a team of associates together who aren’t like-minded, but where everyone contributes to the project. Complex and technically demanding ideas can’t be brought to fruition individually. For example, the Bosporus tunnel project was worked on by architects, structural engineers, electrical engineers... On large-scale and demanding projects, you need experts. But the basic concept and idea always have a leader. Ideas always communicate a message and if everyone gets that mes-

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sage, then the result is good. Someone who doesn’t identify with the project cannot be part of the team. Have you seen Olafur Eliasson’s house on water? He couldn’t do it alone, but the soul of this house must have come from his head...  What makes your Hendrix Bridge illumination project so special? − The bridge has a very specific arch and a Langer’s beam which we illuminated with static white light highlighting its shape and recognisable green colour, and as soon as a train arrives − whose arrival and departure are followed by two radars − the bridge disappears and the train gets highlighted. As soon as the train crosses the bridge, the bridge lights up again until the next train composition arrives. I was inspired by the

design. I succeeded in accomplishing this thanks to my Trick lamp, which was just released on the market at the time. The investor didn’t believe that we’d succeed.  You’re amongst the very few who returned to Croatia during the war even though you had already set up your own company in the US, your career had taken off... A new start can’t have been easy. − Frankly, my priorities changed completely at that time and it was then that I devoted myself to creativity, learning and the pleasure I derive from bringing ideas to fruition. I didn’t focus on profit or the value of money, and this allowed me to focus all my energy on creation. I think that, at the very beginning, it’s important to elaborate your idea to

the fact that the project was promoted as a tourist attraction put Pula on the map. The silence that descended on the 15,000 people watching when the lights were lit on the cranes is the greatest compliment I’ve ever received.  What new projects have you been working on? − The illumination of the mannerist Palazzo Te in Mantua is being completed, as well as the illumination of the walls of the old town of Florence. I’ve also been working on two important and big projects in Russia, the illumination of a stadium and of one of the three most beautiful skyscrapers in the world, Evolution Tower. The illumination of the largest synagogue in Jerusalem has recently been completed based on my

CMY

D. Skira

fact that I was to illuminate an infrastructure facility built for rail traffic, which means that it was trains and not the bridge itself that played the main role. Trains were rendered joyful with the help of light in colour which produces a delightful effect. Hendrix Bridge is the first in a row; Zagreb’s other bridges are soon to be illuminated as well.  What was your inspiration for the Eurasia Tunnel? − I was inspired by the evil eye protection talisman, a souvenir that you can buy all across Istanbul, and by the Hand of Fatima amulet, another one of their traditional souvenirs. The talisman inspired me to opt for blue light, and I tried to reproduce the pattern of the Hand of Fatima via lighting

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its full potential, regardless of the finances required and the cost of production. The idea is then directed via processes towards the point where it’ll be accepted − this, too, is a creative process. I’m fortunate enough to have investors often produce my idea as it was originally conceived, like the jellyfish project on the Island of Lošinj.  The first project that won international acclaim was the Lighting Giants project, the cranes of Pula’s shipyard that you illuminated to the joy of the residents of Pula and their guests... − That project was one of my most favourite ones, because the residents of Pula accepted it as their own. The several first prizes it received at international level and

Motovun u Istri, grad iz snova − simulacija najambicioznijeg Skirina projekta u nastajanju Motovun in Istria, a dream town − a simulation of Skira’s most ambitious project

project. I’m thrilled about the fact that I’ve been working on quite a few important and big projects in Croatia that you’re bound to hear about in the future. I’m very much looking forward to bringing them to fruition. What matters is that the values we have be  brought out of the darkness.

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kvarner region tourist board 51410 opatija, nikole tesle 2, t +385 (0)51 272 988, f +385 (0)51 272 909, e kvarner@kvarner.hr “kvarner info - adriatic gate”, t +385 (0)51 623 333, 628 888, F +385 (0)51 623 334, e info@kvarner.hr www.kvarner.hr 20 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

Visit KVARNER Croatiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best kept secret

Diversity is beautiful

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Viktor Kovačić, zgrada Burze za robu i vrednote u Zagrebu Viktor Kovačić, the Stock and Commodity Exchange building in Zagreb

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BAŠTINA HERITAGE

MODERNE ARHITEKTURE THE BIRTH OF MODERN CROATIAN ARCHITECTURE Piše/By _ Dragan Damjanović Fotografije/Photos _ Damir Fabijanić

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01-02 Viktor Kovačić, crkva svetog Blaža u Zagrebu Viktor Kovačić, the Church of St. Blaise in Zagreb

U ovoj se godini obilježava stota obljetnica smrti Otta Wagnera (Penzing kod Beča, 1841. − Beč, 1918.), jednoga od najcjenjenijih arhitekata posljednjih dvaju stoljeća. Wagner se danas smatra jednim od rodonačelnika moderne arhitekture pa upravo stoga, u povodu 100. obljetnice Wagnerove smrti, veleposlanstvo Republike Hrvatske u Austriji, koje ima svoje sjedište u palači u kojoj je 1890-ih Wagner živio i koju je projektirao (Rennweg 3, Beč), organizira izložbu Otto Wagner i hrvatska arhitektura, koja se otvara u listopadu 2018.

This year marks the 100th anniversary of the death of Otto Wagner (Penzing near Vienna, 1841-Vienna, 1918), one of the most highly acclaimed architects of the last two centuries. Wagner is today considered to be one of the fathers of modern architecture, which is why, on the occasion of the 100th anniversary of Wagner’s death, the Embassy of the Republic of Croatia in Austria, whose offices are in a palace which Wagner designed and in which he lived in the 1890s (Rennweg 3, Vienna), is organising the Otto Wagner and Croatian Architecture exhibition, opening in October this year. CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

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01 Eduard Kramer, zgrada za brodice na Brijunima Eduard Kramer, the boathouse on the Island of Brijuni 02 Vjekoslav Bastl, zgrada Trgovačko-obrtničke komore u Zagrebu Vjekoslav Bastl, the building of the Chamber of Trade and Crafts in Zagreb 03 Vjekoslav Bastl, kuća Eugena Rade Vjekoslav Bastl, Eugen Rado’s house 03

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04 Vjekoslav Bastl, kuća Josipa Kalline, detalj Vjekoslav Bastl, Josip Kallina’s house, a detail 05 Vjekoslav Bastl, kuća Josipa Kalline, detalj Vjekoslav Bastl, Josip Kallina’s house, a detail 06 Viktor Kovačić, kuće OršićDivković u Masarykovoj ulici u Zagrebu Viktor Kovačić, the Oršić-Divković houses on Masarykova Street in Zagreb

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Izvor/Source: Otto Wagner, Einige Skizzen, Projekte und ausgef. Bauwerke, Wien, 1897.

ahvaljujući tomu što je Hrvatska do 1918. bila dio Austro-Ugarske Monarhije, utjecaj Otta Wagnera na hrvatsku arhitekturu iznimno je jak. Jedan je od rodonačelnika moderne arhitekture, čije je postulate svojim projektima te preko profesorskoga mjesta na Akademiji likovnih umjetnosti u Beču (na kojoj je radio od 1894. do 1912.) proširio cijelom srednjom Europom, pa tako i na područje Hrvatske. Iako, naža-

Izvor/Source: Muzej grada Zagreba/Zagreb City Museum

01 Otto Wagner, natječajni projekt za župnu crkvu svetih Petra i Pavla u Osijeku Otto Wagner, the competition design for the parish Church of St. Peter and Paul in Osijek 02 Vjekoslav Bastl, zgrada Trgovačko-obrtničke komore i Trgovačko-obrtničkog muzeja u Zagrebu, oko 1910. Vjekoslav Bastl, the building of the Chamber of Trade and Crafts, and the Museum of Trade and Crafts in Zagreb, ca. 1910

lost, na području Hrvatske nije realizirao nijednu građevinu, jedan je projekt ipak izradio za ovu zemlju. Riječ je o iznimno atraktivnom natječajnom projektu za osječku župnu crkvu svetih Petra i Pavla iz 1893. koji je predviđao inovativnu otvorenu upotrebu lijevanoga željeza u izvedbi stupova u unutrašnjosti, no koji je odbačen u korist naposljetku realiziranoga, daleko tradicionalnijega neogotičkog projekta njemačkog arhitekta Franza Langenberga. Žiri, koji su činili istaknuti stručnjaci iz Beča, Zagreba i Osijeka, Wagnerov je projekt odbacio jer je smatrao da svojim rješenjem ne odgovara izgledu katoličke crkve. Iako nije uspio u Hrvatskoj realizirati svoje projekte, na hrvatsku je arhitekturu Wagner vrlo snažno utjecao, i to preko svojih učenika. Od 190 učenika koji su studirali na Wagnerovoj Specijalnoj školi na Akademiji dva su gotovo cijeli svoj opus ostvarili u Hrvatskoj − Viktor Kovačić i Vjekoslav (Alois) Bastl. Od svih je hrvatskih Wagnerovih đaka nesumnjivo najvažniji Viktor Kovačić. Studirao je u Beču na Akademiji između 1896. i 1899., i već je za studija izrađivao iznimno inovativne projekte, kao što pokazuje njegov diplomski rad − projekt za dvorac ruskih careva u Oriandi na Krimu. Po povratku u Zagreb 1899. Kovačić se objavom tekstova borio za postulate moderne arhitekture, a usporedno je izradio i brojne projekte za stambene, poslovne, javne i sakralne građevine kao i urbanističke planove. Samo se na rijetkim njegovim ostvarenjima, poput kuće Oršić-Divković u

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Izvor/Source: Architektonische Monatshefte, VII., 1901., Tafel 5

Masarykovoj ulici u Zagrebu (1906. − 1907.), kod njega osjeća utjecaj radova Otta Wagnera. Vrlo je rano Kovačić razvio poseban arhitektonski jezik utemeljen na kombiniranju elemenata povijesnih stilova i moderne. Najvažnija su mu djela bez ikakve sumnje crkva svetog Blaža u Zagrebu (1911. − 1914.), jedna od prvih građevina u Hrvatskoj u čijoj je izgradnji upotrijebljen armirani beton, te zgrada Burze za robu i vrednote, također u Zagrebu, u kojoj se danas nalazi središte Hrvatske narodne banke (1923. − 1927.). Svojim klasicističkim pročeljem prekrivenim kvalitetnim mramorom s Brača te reprezentativnim, u cijelosti sačuvanim interijerom s glavnom burzovnom dvoranom nadsvođenom velikom armiranobetonskom kupolom, ova je građevina ogledan primjer javne arhitekture 1920-ih godina u Hrvatskoj. Za razliku od Kovačića, koji se vrlo brzo po završetku školovanja odmaknuo od Wagnerova stila, drugi Wagnerov hrvatski učenik, Vjekoslav Bastl, mnogo je više ostao vjeran secesiji. Na Akademiji u Beču studirao je od 1899. do 1902., no već 1899. imao je prilike ostvariti prve projekte u Zagrebu zahvaljujući tomu što se zaposlio kao projektant u poduzeću Hönigsberg i Deutsch, u to vrijeme najvažnijem arhitektonskom birou u Zagrebu. Prva mu je realizacija bila zgrada ljekarnika Josipa Pečića u zagrebačkoj Ilici na kojoj se motivima − postavljanjem dekoracije u obliku zmija oko pehara na vrhu zabata − neposredno referirao na ulogu zgrade kao apoteke. U narednom mu je razdoblju (1902. − 1907.) to bio glavni način oblikovanja pročelja zgrada. Stvarao je, naime, zgrade s pročeljima − reklamama. Pročelja zgrade Josipa Kalline u Masarykovoj u Zagrebu prekrio je majoličkim pločicama budući da se Kallinina tvrtka bavila proizvodnjom keramičke robe. Dijelove pročelja kuće Rado na Trgu bana Jelačića u Zagrebu oblikovao je pak tako da izgledaju poput unutrašnjosti zubarske ordinacije − Eugen Rado bio je, naime, u to vrijeme najugledniji zagrebački zubar. Najoriginalnije rješenje primijenio je na kući Eugena Viktora Fellera na uglu Trga bana Jelačića i Jurišićeve ulice u Zagrebu. Na njezin je ugao postavio motiv koji predstavlja golemu bocu napitka Elsa-Fluid, a koji je u to vrijeme Feller proizvodio i koji mu

je donio ogromnu zaradu (Elsa-Fluid u to se vrijeme upotrebljavao kao svojevrstan univerzalni lijek). Nažalost, za razliku od kuća Rado i Kallina, kuća Feller kasnije je pregrađena tako da se ovaj originalni primjer secesijske arhitekture više ne može vidjeti u izvornom obliku. Osim stambenih i poslovnih zgrada Bastl je projektirao i zgrade Trgovačkoobrtničke komore i Trgovačko-obrtničkog muzeja u Zagrebu (1902. − 1903.), i danas jedan od najslikovitijih secesijskih kompleksa u gradu. Bastla je zanimala

03 Alfred Fenzl, projekt za Kongresnu palaču mira na Lokrumu, 1900. Alfred Fenzl, the design for the Congress Palace of Peace on Lokrum, 1900 04 Vjekoslav Bastl, projekt za palaču Znanstvenog zavoda za okultne znanosti u Parizu, 1902. Vjekoslav Bastl, the design for the Research Institute of Occult Sciences in Paris, 1902

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Owing to the fact that Croatia was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until 1918, the influence that Otto Wagner had on Croatian architecture was exceptionally strong. He is one of the fathers of modern architecture, whose postulates he spread throughout Central Europe, including Croatia, through his projects and professorship at the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna (where he worked between 1894 and 1912). Although, unfortunately, he didn’t build a single building in Croatia, he did design one project for Croatia. This was a highly attractive competition proposal for the Osijek parish Church of St. Peter and Paul from 1893. Wagner’s design proposed the innovative use of cast iron in the execution of the pillars inside the church, but which was rejected in favour of a far more traditional Neo-Gothic design by the German architect Franz Langenberg. The panel of experts, which was comprised of prominent experts from Vienna, Zagreb and Osijek, rejected Wagner’s design proposal because they concluded that his design solution was

not appropriate for a catholic church. Although he didn’t succeed in bringing any of his projects to fruition in Croatia, Wagner had a profound impact on Croatian architecture, and this through his students. Out of the 190 students who studied at Wagner’s Special School for Architecture at the Academy of Fine Arts, two of them realised almost all of their designs in Croatia − Viktor Kovačić and Vjekoslav (Alois) Bastl. Of all of Wagner’s Croatian students, Viktor Kovačić was, without a shadow of a doubt, the most important one. He studied at the Academy in Vienna between 1896 and 1899, and it was already during his studies that he started designing extremely innovative projects, evidenced by his graduation thesis − his design project for the Orianda Russian imperial summer residence on the Crimea. Once he returned to Zagreb in 1899, Kovačić fought for the postulates of modern architecture by publishing texts and, at the same time, produced numerous projects for residential, commercial, public and sacral buildings, as well as urban plans. Otto Wagner’s influence is felt in only a few of his buildings, such as the Oršić-Divković house (1906-1907) on Masarykova Street in Zagreb. Kovačić developed his very own architectural language very early on, a language based on combining elements of historical styles and Modernism. His most important works are unquestionably the Church of St. Blaise in Zagreb (19111914), one of the first buildings in Croatia in whose construction reinforced concrete was used, and the building of the Stock and Commodity Exchange (1923-1927) in Zagreb, where today’s Croatian National Bank is located. With its Neoclassical facade covered with quality marble from the Island of Brač and its fully preserved interior including the main stock exchange hall with a large reinforced concrete dome, this building was a typical example of public architecture in the 1920s in Croatia. Unlike Kovačić, who distanced himself from Wagner’s style soon after having completed his studies, another one of Wagner’s Croatian students, namely Vjekoslav Bastl, remained faithful to Art Nouveau to a much greater extent. He studied at the Academy in Vienna from 1899 to 1902, but already in 1899 he was given the opportunity to complete his first pro-

Izvor/Source: Aus der Wagner Schule, 02, 1902.

metafizika pa je motive nabijene simbolizmom uključivao u svoje projekte (poput šišmiša na Kallininoj zgradi), a i diplomski mu je rad bio projekt za palaču Znanstvenog zavoda za okultne znanosti u Parizu (1902.). Poput Kovačića i Bastl se kasnije okrenuo prema klasicizmu i u tome stilu realizirao brojne projekte u Zagrebu od kojih je svakako najpoznatiji novi kompleks tržnice Dolac (1926. − 1930.), danas jedno od turistički najpopularnijih mjesta u Zagrebu. Uz spomenute arhitekte na prostoru današnje Hrvatske, ponajprije na području Istre, Primorja i Dalmacije, djelovali su i Wagnerovi učenici nastanjeni u drugim centrima Austro-Ugarske Monarhije, ponajviše u Beču: Max Fabiani, Eduard Kramer, Marcel Kammerer i drugi. Projektirajući hotele te kuće za odmor na Jadranu, u Opatiji, Dubrovniku, Voloskom i Lovranu, ovi su arhitekti odigrali ključnu ulogu u počecima razvoja hrvatskog turizma. Od osobitoga je značaja opus arhitekta Eduarda Kramera, koji je na Brijunima u prva tri desetljeća 20. stoljeća realizirao cijeli niz hotela i drugih turističkih objekata namijenjenih elitnome turizmu − bečkoj eliti koja je

ovo otočje birala kao mjesto odmora i rehabilitacije. Ljepota hrvatske obale privukla je i arhitekta Alfreda Fenzla. Povijesni spomenici i prirodne ljepote otočića Lokruma kod Dubrovnika naveli su ga da utopijski projekt izgradnje palače svjetskog mira iz 1900. smjesti upravo na Lokrum. Osim njih na hrvatskoj je obali, u Rijeci, tada važnoj pomorskoj luci, između 1911. i 1914. živio i radio Wagnerov student Theodor Träxler. U tom je kratkom razdoblju uspio ostvariti dva iznimno značajna i inovativna djela: samostan benediktinki i jednu od najmodernijih kazališnih zgrada onodobne Europe − Teatro Fenice, podignutu u samome središtu Rijeke od armiranoga betona. S hrvatske je obale, iz Splita, potekao Wagnerov student Juraj Zaninović, koji je, međutim, svoje projekte odreda realizirao u drugim zemljama − projektirao je tako poznati Zmajski most u Ljubljani te niz secesijskih građevina u Trstu. Wagnerovi su učenici u Hrvatsku donijeli nov tip estetike, nove materijale, nove tipove konstrukcije (armirani beton) i nov odnos prema arhitektonskome zanatu te su time odigrali ključnu ulogu  u rađanju moderne.

Located downtown, in the heart of Zagreb’s bustling business district, Hotel International is the ideal venue, whether you’re visiting the City for business or pleasure. Our spacious, elegantly appointed guest-rooms, and luxurious suites, will ensure that your stay in Zagreb will be one to remember. Just minutes away from Zagreb’s main attractions, the Hotel International is your best bet as a starting point to explore the City’s hidden corners, green parks, picturesque open-air markets, theatres, museums, galleries, bohemian cafés and lively clubs. Following the energy efficiency standards we proudly support sustainable business operations.

D. Damjanović

Iako nije uspio u Hrvatskoj realizirati svoje projekte, na hrvatsku je arhitekturu Otto Wagner vrlo snažno utjecao, i to preko svojih učenika Viktora Kovačića i Vjekoslava (Aloisa) Bastla Although he didn’t succeed in bringing any of his projects to fruition in Croatia, Otto Wagner had a profound impact on Croatian architecture, and this through his students Viktor Kovačić and Vjekoslav (Alois) Bastl

jects in Zagreb thanks to the fact that he got employed as an architect at Hönigsberg & Deutsch, the leading architecture studio in Zagreb at that time. His first project was the building of the pharmacist Josip Pečić in Zagreb’s Ilica Street, at the top of the gable of which he placed a decoration in the form of a snake twining around a chalice, a motif with which he made a direct reference to the function of the building as a pharmacy. In the upcoming period (1902-1907), this was his main way of designing facades of buildings. More specifically, the facades he designed were − advertisements. He covered the facades of Josip Kallina’s building in Masarykova Street in Zagreb with majolica tiles, since Kallina’s company produced ceramics. He designed parts of the Rado house at Zagreb’s Ban Jelačić Square to look like the interior of a dental clinic − Eugen Rado was Zagreb’s most renowned dentist at that time. His most original design is the one he applied on Eugen Viktor Feller’s house on the corner of Ban Jelačić

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Square and Jurišićeva Street in Zagreb. He covered the corner of the building with a motif that represented a giant bottle of the Elsa-Fluid drink, which Feller produced at that time and which made him huge profits (the Elsa-Fluid drink was used as a universal remedy of sorts). Unfortunately, unlike the Rado and Kallina houses, the Feller house was later remodelled, and so this original example of Art Nouveau architecture can no longer be seen in its original form. Apart from residential and commercial buildings, Bastl also designed the buildings of the Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the Museum of Trade and Crafts in Zagreb (1902-1903), which have remained two of the most stunning Art Nouveau complexes in the city to date. Bastl was interested in metaphysics, so he made sure that his projects included motifs brimming with symbolism (e.g., bats on the Kallina house). Furthermore, his graduation thesis was a project for the palace of the Research Institute of Occult Sciences in Paris (1902).

Like Kovačić, Bastl also turned to Neoclassicism at one point, and it’s in the Neoclassical style that he brought to fruition many of his projects in Zagreb, the most famous of which is the new Dolac Open Market complex (1926-1930), today one of the most popular tourist spots of Zagreb. Besides the said architects, Wagner’s students residing in other centres of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, most notably in Vienna, also worked on the territory of today’s Croatia, primarily in the regions of Istria, the Croatian Littoral and Dalmatia. Namely, Max Fabiani, Eduard Kramer, Marcel Kammerer and others. By designing hotels and holiday houses on the Adriatic, in Opatija, Dubrovnik, Volosko and Lovran, these architects played a key role in the beginnings of the development of Croatian tourism. The architect Eduard Kramer’s work is of great importance. More specifically, in the first three decades of the 20th century, he designed, on the Island of Brijuni, a whole series of hotels and other tourist facilities intended for elite tourism − the Vienna elite who chose this island as a place for rest and rehabilitation. The architect Alfred Fenzl was also attracted by the beauty of the Croatian coast. The historical monuments and the natural beauty of the Island of Lokrum near Dubrovnik inspired him to place his utopian project of the Congress Palace of Peace in 1900 on the Island of Lokrum. Besides them, Wagner’s student Theodor Träxler also lived and worked on the Croatian coast, namely in Rijeka, then an important seaport, between 1911 and 1914. In this short period, he succeeded in erecting two exceptionally significant and innovative buildings: a Benedictine monastery and one of the most modern theatre buildings of then Europe, Teatro Fenice, erected in the very city centre of Rijeka from reinforced concrete. Another one of Wagner’s students, Juraj Zaninović, was born in Split, but realised his projects abroad − he designed the famous Dragon Bridge in Ljubljana and a series of Art Nouveau buildings in Trieste. Wagner’s students brought to Croatia a new type of aesthetics, new materials, new types of construction (reinforced concrete) and a new attitude to architecture as a profession, having thus played a  key role in the birth of Modernism.

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OBALA COAST

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A ROMANTIC TOWN Piše/By _ Slobodan Bukvić

Fotografije/Photos _ Damir Fabijanić

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01 Skradinski buk, Nacionalni park Krka Skradinski Buk waterfall, Krka National Park 02 Skradin

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Skradin je grad bliskog susreta prekrasnoga plavog mora, modre rijeke, zelenoga brdovitoga gorja i mističnoga jezera, što se sve zajedno prelijeva u nesvakidašnju ljepotu i ugođaj. Nije bez razloga povijest ovoga grada počela još prije 6000 godina. Pradavni i današnji stanovnici, kao i mnogobrojni posjetitelji i turisti, prepoznaju u ovome romantičnome i slikovitom gradu čarobnu ljepotu prirode povezanu sa skladnom kamenom arhitekturom. Ondje će vas spontano prožeti jedinstven osjećaj oduševljenja, opuštanja i nadahnuća.

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01 ACI marina Skradin i most Krka (autocesta Zagreb − Ploče) u pozadini Skradin ACI Marina with Krka Bridge (Zagreb − Ploče motorway) in the background 02 Skradinska lučica Skradin’s port

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Skradin is a town of the close encounter of a brilliantly blue sea, a blue river, green hills and a mystical lake, all blended into an exceptional beauty and ambiance. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not without reason that the history of this town began 6000 years ago. Its ancient and present-day residents, as well as its numerous visitors and tourists, have recognised in this romantic and picturesque town the magical beauty of nature harmoniously blending with the stone architecture of the town. In Skradin, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re bound to instinctively be taken by a phenomenal feeling of enthusiasm, relaxation and inspiration.

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osjet Skradinu možete planirati unaprijed, ali ako odluku da svratite u taj gradić donesete u trenutku, spontano, nećete nimalo pogriješiti. Kada se vozite glavnom autocestom A1 prema Šibeniku, Splitu i općenito srednjoj i južnoj Dalmaciji, slučajnim ili svjesnim zaustavljanjem na odmorištu Krka ukazat će vam se bajkovit panoramski pogled na Skradin i lijepi skradinski kanal i most. Teško ćete tada odoljeti a da ne odete posjetiti taj romantični i zanimljivi grad. Prije nego što se zaputite u Skradin, s toga mjesta, odmorišta Krka i vidikovca, ne propustite pogledati i lijepu i prikladnu skulpturu od kamena − Gospu od Puta. Grad Skradin i njegovo jedinstveno prirodno i povijesno okružje neodoljiva su priča. Da biste bili dio te priče, pođite od početka povijesti grada Skradina. Posjetite, za početak, obližnju Bribirsku glavicu, gdje se nalaze sačuvani ostaci naselja stariji od 6000 godina. Zbog spoja prirode i drevnih ostataka građevina i predmeta i njihove povijesnokulturne vrijednosti naziva se i Hrvatska Troja. Ovdje možete vidjeti stare antičke sarkofage, cisterne i keramičke hladnja-

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ke, liburnijske i antičke zidine debele dva metra, ostatke sakralnih objekata kao i bogatu zbirku izložaka od prapovijesti do kasnoga srednjeg vijeka. Zidine staroga grada nalaze se na nešto povišenu platou pa ćete, osim uživanja u njegovoj višetisućljetnoj povijesti, uživati i u prekrasnu pogledu na brdovite predjele gorja Dinare i na mnoge otoke Jadranskoga mora, poput Hvara, Brača, pa čak i dalekoga Visa. Povijest gradića Skradina dulja je od 2000 godina. Već je u 4. stoljeću Skradin bio središte ranokršćanske biskupije. U 14. stoljeću bio je važno političko središte pod vladavinom bana Pavla I. Šubića Bribirskog. U tadašnjem statutu, koji je bio na latinskome, grad je imao jasno određena društvena pravila ponašanja svih stanovnika te poštivanja javnoga dobra. Izvorni povijesni dokumenti Statuta grada Skradina čuvaju se u Nacionalnoj knjižnici sv. Marka u Veneciji. Središnja jezgra grada sa sadašnjim izgledom potječe uglavnom iz 18. i 19. stoljeća. Zbog očuvanih zgrada i njihove povijesno-kulturne važnosti centar Skradina zaštićeni je spomenik kulture. Uživajte u šarmu njegovih kamenom

popločenih ulica, uskih prolaza i skalina. Ne propustite prošetati Ulicom fra Luje Maruna u središtu Skradina. Poseban ugođaj te ulice stvaraju stare kamene kuće kao i raznobojne zgrade u starom venecijanskom stilu. Posjetite svakako i crkvu Porođenja Blažene Djevice Marije na Trgu Male Gospe sagrađenu 1776. godine na temeljima nekadašnje katedrale koja je bila porušena za vrijeme okupacije Turaka. U crkvi su posebno vrijedne orgulje ugrađene u konstrukciju pjevališta. Kao važna povijesno-kulturna baština proglašene su kulturnim dobrom. Potom se iz povijesti vratite u sadašnjost i uživajte u lijepim kafićima i restoranima u skradinskim ulicama kao i uz rivu u neposrednoj blizini mora i ACI marine. Osjetit ćete pravi šarm mediteranskoga grada u njegovoj tradicionalnoj ljepoti. Za one povijesno znatiželjnije i raspoložene za šetnju preporučuje se ugodno pješačenje i odlazak na obližnje brdo Turina, gdje se nalaze ostaci utvrde bana Pavla I. Šubića Bribirskog. Za taj napor bit ćete nagrađeni prekrasnim slikovitim pogledom na Skradin i skradinski akvatorij. Za one koji su ljubitelji prirode i ljepote koja nadahnjuje, odlazak brodicom sa skradinske rive, odnosno Obale bana Pavla I. Šubića Bribirskog, u nacionalni park Krka nešto je što se jednostavno mora vidjeti. Da Skradin ima svoju posebnost i specifičnost, svjedoči i činjenica da se u tome gradu u Parku Scardona nalazi i Muzej automobila Ferdinand Budicki. Mnogi zaljubljenici u automobile i njihovu povijest posjećuju muzej, u kojemu se nalaze modeli starih automobila, motocikala, bicikala kao i druge tehničke i industrijske ostavštine. Ovo upućuje na to da je Skradin od samoga početka razvoja automobila i motorne industrije postao nezaobilazno mjesto posjeta i boravka putujućih avanturista i zaljubljenika u ljepote prirode i ovaj romantični grad. Da je Skradin neobično romantičan, potvrđuje i običaj mnogih parova da proslavu svojega vjenčanja organiziraju upravo u ovome gradu. Ljetni ugođaj i šarm Skradina treba osobito doživjeti za vrijeme održavanja Skradinskoga kulturnog ljeta. U sklopu tih događanja posebno je zanimljiv Susret dalmatinskih klapa, festival koji je postao tradicionalna kulturna i turistička manifestacija. Održavanje i njegovanje posebne

vrste pjevanja bez pratnje instrumenata, a cappella, jedno je od specifičnosti mnogih krajeva hrvatskog Jadrana. Tu su i zanimljivi Sajam agroturizma, kazališni festival Glumište pod murvom, Ploveće kazalište Histriona i mnoge druge kulturne manifestacije i zanimljiva događanja. Ako barem na kratko tražite savršenu prirodu i mir kao i duhovni spokoj, sigurno ćete ga pronaći u neposrednoj blizini Skradina, na Visovačkome jezeru. Naziv je dobilo po otočiću Visovac, na kojemu su smješteni franjevački samostan i crkva. Iako se spominje još sredinom 14. stoljeća, franjevci su na ovaj jedinstveni otočić došli u 15. stoljeću. Njihovom je zaslugom Visovac ne samo očuvan nego i iznimno lijep i bajkovit. U 17. stoljeću podignuli su samostan Majke od Milosti i crkvu Gospe Visovačke. Treba svakako posjetiti samostanski muzej i knjižnicu, koji sadrže vrlo stare i vrijedne eksponate iz povijesti Visovca i Skradina. Osobito je posvećena pažnja i očuvanju i uzgajanju bujne flore na otoku Visovcu. Ondje se nalazi čak 195 biljnih vrsta od kojih je oko 80 kultivirano. Uz neke egzotične biljke, paunove i kornjače učinit će vam se da proživljavate kratki san o rajskome otoku. Uronit ćete u pravu oazu mira u kojoj ćete obnoviti duhovnu energiju i istodobno uživati u ljepoti koju su priroda i čovjek stvarali stoljećima. Kad se s ovoga rajskog otoka vratimo u Skradin, ne smiju nam promaknuti ni uobičajene svjetovne radosti koje nam se nude u Skradinu. U Skradinu ćete naći i vrlo kvalitetan privatni smještaj jer su grad i Turistička zajednica Skradina već dugo aktivno uključeni u hvalevrijednu aktivnost Šibensko-kninske županije. Riječ je o podršci privatnom smještaju pod marketinškim nazivom Kao kod kuće (Like

home) ili Klubu kvalitetnog obiteljskog smještaja, u sklopu kojega se usklađuju određeni standardi i mjerila za poboljšanje kvalitete kategorizacije i certificiranja privatnog smještaja. Za pohvalu je i specifičan i sveobuhvatan logo Turističke zajednice grada Skradina. Svi iznimni dojmovi, doživljaji i lijepa iskustva koja se ponesu iz ovoga povijesnoga i mističnoga, a istodobno ugodnoga i bajkovitoga grada mogu se sažeti u kratku misao nepoznatog pjesnika koji je rekao: I ono što vječnost sabire u vašim je snovima, premda ste slike što proteku vremenom. Skradin je mjesto gdje ne možete a da ne uživate u izvornoj ljepoti prošloga i sadašnjeg vremena, koja vas spontano očarava, nadahnjuje i oduševljava. Uvjerite se u to, posjetite Skradin i ponesite sa sobom dio snova ovoga osebujnoga grada i njegove okolice. SKRADINSKE DELICIJE Nemojte propustiti uživanje u gastronomskim specijalitetima Skradina i okolice. S obzirom na bogatu povijest i suživot mnogih etničkih skupina u ovome kraju, bogata je i zanimljiva gastronomska i vinska ponuda.

Skradin, rijeka na moru - godišnji meni - Jesmo li mi boduli ili vlaji s obzirom na to da jedemo i ribu i meso - pita se Ante Pižić, meštar (i) od skradinskoga rižota, posebne delicije, pravoga slow fooda Skradina. - Ipak bih rekao da smo mesožderi! Svinja, govedo, krava, kozlić, janjad, ovan, fazani, kokoše, pivci, tuke, patke, guske, uz obaveznu verduru (povrće) − to je naša tradicionalna spiza. Nekada davno u obitelji se kuhalo i za ručak i za večeru! Kraj prosinca − sredina siječnja / juha, lešo govedina i tuka, arambašići, hren, kisela kapulica i ljutika, usoljene masline (nepečene), zelena salata, božićni kolači (favete − kuglice od bajama i oraha, 01 Jedan od brojnih drvenih mostića u NP-u Krka One of the many wooden bridges in the Krka National Park 02 Skradinski buk The Skradinski Buk waterfall 03 Otočić Visovac sa samostanom The Islet of Visovac with a monastery

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ćete uživati i u slikovitosti ovoga malog mjesta, ugodnoj obiteljskoj atmosferi restorana i ljubaznosti domaćina − i nadasve u posebno pripremljenoj autohtonoj hrani i odabranim vinima. Dovoljno je spomenuti i referencu poznatoga, nažalost nedavno preminuloga svjetski poznatog kuhara i gurmana, autora, putopisca te poznatoga voditelja dokumentarnih emisija, Anthonyja Bourdaina. Kao vrsni poznavatelj svjetske kuhinje i vina, Anthony Bourdain bio je oduševljen gastronomskom i vinskom ponudom  obitelji Bibich.

lojnjača i čukter, skradinski štrudel, skradinska torta) Od 2. miseca na dalje, kako kreće proljeće / čišćenje organizma, skromna verdura (povrće), grahorice, grah, orzo, varice, kukuruz, pšenica, slanutak, suhi bob, od svinje pečenice, domaće kobasice, suhomesnato uz kiseli kupus; ulazi se u proljeće uz samoniklo bilje, kostriš, divlji luk, kuhano s maslinovim uljem i kvasinom; prva panceta, prvi bob, grašak… Od Uskrsa / mlada janjetina, od Cvitnice prva na lešo, janjeće iznutrice na puno načina Lito / pomidori, kukumari, tikvice, malo pancete; ulazimo u doba šalše, punjene paprike (ne stavljamo rižu!), ne radimo zaprške… U ovom spoju Krke, Prukljanskog jezera i mora ima svega od ribe (osim škrpine) − brancina, više vrsta cipala (oštrica, glavatac…), nekad je bilo i tune, bižota (jegulja), škriljuna (prukljanske kozice), čokalica (vrsta gavuna), sipica, lignjica, školjke (pidoče, kunjke, kamenice, rovanice, Jakobove kapice…). Vinarija Bibich U Skradinu, između ostaloga, svakako posjetite svjetski poznatu vinariju Bibich

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i iznimno kvalitetan autohtoni restoran u mjestu Plastovu, u neposrednoj blizini Skradina. Vinarija njeguje obiteljsku tradiciju proizvodnje vina još od 15. stoljeća. Svjetsku eno-reputaciju stekli su vinima kao što su Debit, Ambra, Grenache G6, Lučica riserva, Bas de Bas, Plavina, Pošip P9, Sangreal Shiraz i Merlot, Mosca d’Oro itd. Vina Bibich nalaze se na vinskim listama najboljih svjetskih restorana i to u metropolama kao što su New York, Tokyo, Stockholm, Los Angeles, Miami i u mnogim drugim vrhunskim američkim restoranima i prodajnim buticima vina u SAD-u i svijetu. No ako se nađete u lijepom i ugodnom restoranu obitelji Bibich u Plastovu, užitak će biti potpun. Za to će se pobrinuti domaćini, koji će vam uz određena vina ponuditi i svoje autohtone gastronomske specijalitete. Spomenimo samo neke od njih poput filea orade u rogaču sa sipom, parfea od sira i dimljene pastrve u prahu s kavijarom pastrve, bureka sa svježim sirom i vlascem, mlječi od kozica. No umjesto daljnjeg nabrajanja mnogih drugih specijaliteta, bolje ćete se uvjeriti u senzacionalnost njihove gastronomske i vinske ponude ako posjetite vinariju i restoran Bibich u Plastovu. Zasigurno

ou can plan your visit to Skradin in advance, but should you decide to go to this small town on the spur of the moment, quite spontaneously, you won’t regret it. While driving on the main A1 motorway to Šibenik, Split and generally central and southern Dalmatia, if you make a pit stop at Krka regardless of whether accidentally or intentionally, a fairy-tale-like panoramic view of Skradin and the stunning Channel of Skradin and the bridge opens up. You’ll find it difficult to resist not visiting this romantic and captivating town. But before you go to Skradin, from that place, the Krka pit stop and lookout point, don’t miss the beautiful stone sculpture of Our Lady of the Road. The town of Skradin and its unparalleled natural and historical surroundings tell an irresistible story. To be part of this story, start from the beginning of the history of Skradin. Visit, to start with, the nearby Bribirska Glavica plateau, an archaeological site with the remains of a settlement which is over 6000 years old. Thanks to a wonderful coupling of nature and the ancient remains of buildings and objects, and their historical and cultural value, it’s also referred to as the Croatian Troy. Here, you can see ancient sarcophagi, cisterns and ceramic coolers, two-metre wide Liburnian and ancient walls, the remains of sacral buildings, as well as a rich collection of exhibits from prehistoric times to the late Middle Ages. The walls of the old town are located on a slightly elevated plateau, making you be able to relish not only its centuries-old history, but also a magnificent view of the mountain hills of the Dinara Mountain and the countless islands of the Adriatic Sea, such as Hvar, Brač and even the faraway Vis. The history of the town of Skradin is more

than 2000 years old. As early as the 4th century, Skradin was already the centre of an early Christian diocese. In the 14th century, it was an important political centre under the rule of Ban Paul I Šubić of Bribir. The then statute, which was in Latin, prescribed the accepted social rules of conduct and respect for public property. The original historical documents of the Statute of the Town of Skradin are kept in the National Library of St. Mark’s in Venice. The present-day appearance of the town centre dates mainly from the 18th and 19th centuries. Thanks to the well preserved buildings, and their historical and cultural importance, the centre of Skradin is a protected cultural heritage site. You’re bound to take pleasure in the charm of its cobblestone streets, narrow passages and stairs. Make sure you go for a stroll down Fra Lujo Marun Street in the centre of Skradin to absorb the special atmosphere of this street created by its old stone houses and colourful, old Venetian style buildings. The Church of the Birth of Blessed Virgin Mary at the Square of Our Little Lady built in 1776 on the foundations of a once cathedral, which was destroyed during the Turkish occupation, is not to be missed either. The church’s pipe organ which is built into the construction of the choir is particularly valuable. It’s an important piece of historical and cultural heritage, and has been protected as such. Then return to the present, and indulge in the offer of delightful cafes and restaurants in the streets of Skradin, as well as its seafront and ACI marina. You’ll experience the true charm of a Mediterranean town in its traditional beauty. For those who’re curious to take in history and in the mood for a walk, taking a pleasant hike to visit the nearby Hill of Turina and the remains of Ban Paul I Šubić of Bribir’s fortress is highly recommended. Should you make the effort, you’ll be rewarded with stunning views of Skradin and its waters. For lovers of nature and inspiring beauty, taking a boat ride from the seafront of Skradin, that is, from the Coast of Ban Paul I Šubić, to the Krka National Park is an absolute must. That Skradin is special and unique is evidenced by the fact that Skradin’s Scardona Park houses the Ferdinand Budicki Automobile Museum. Exhibiting old-timer cars, motorcycles, bicycles, and other technical and industrial gear and equip-

ment, it’s visited by many lovers of cars and their history. In other words, Skradin has, since the very beginning of the development of automobiles and the motor industry, become an unavoidable place to visit by travelling adventurers and lovers of the beauties of nature and this romantic town. The fact that many newly-weds decide to have their wedding reception in Skradin proves just how wonderfully romantic the town is. Skradin’s summer atmosphere and charm are particularly impressive during the have long been actively involved in a Skradin Summer Festival, within which the praiseworthy programme conducted Skradin Klapa Festival is worth singling out by the Šibenik-Knin County supporting as a traditional cultural and tourist event. private accommodation lessors under Keeping and nurturing this special way of the marketing name of Like Home or the singing without instrumental accompaniQuality Family Accommodation Club, ment or a cappella is one of the specificiwithin the framework of which specific ties of many parts of the Croatian Adriatic. standards and criteria for improving the The Agrotourism Fair, the Acting Under quality of categorisation and certification of a Mulberry theatre festival, the Histrion private accommodation are coordinated. Sailing Theatre, and many other cultural The unique and comprehensive logo events are all well worth your time. of the Tourist Board of Skradin is also If what you’re looking for is unspoiled praiseworthy. nature, and peace and quiet, you’re bound The overwhelming impressions and to find what you’re after in the immediate wonderful experiences that you’re sure to vicinity of Skradin, at Visovac Lake named take home from this historic and mystical, after the Islet of Visovac, which is home pleasant and fairy-tale-like town can all be to a Franciscan monastery and church. condensed into the fleeting thought of an Although it was first mentioned in the midunknown poet who once wrote: What eterdle of the 14th century, it was in the 15th nity gathers is in your dreams, although century that the Franciscans arrived to this you’re images that pass with time. Skradin unique island. Thanks to the Franciscans, is a place where you can’t fail to enjoy the Visovac has been not only preserved, but original beauty of the past and the present, is also exceptionally beautiful and fairywhich enchants, inspires and delights in a tale-like. In the 17th century, they erected most natural way. Come and see for yourthe Monastery of Our Mother of Mercy self by visiting Skradin and taking with you and the Church of Our Lady of Visovac. a part of the dream of this unique town The monastery museum and library that and its surroundings. contain very old and valuable exhibits from the history of Visovac and Skradin are Jedno od brojnih eno-gastronomskih definitely worth visiting. Special attention događanja u Skradinu is paid, amongst other things, to the presOne of the many wine ervation and cultivation of the island’s lush and food festivals in Skradin flora. As many as 195 plant species, out of which about 80 are cultivated, have found a home there. The island’s exotic plants, peacocks and turtles are sure to make you feel like you’re on a paradise island. You’ll find yourself immersed in a true oasis of peace and quiet, rejuvenating spiritually and at the same time savouring the beauty that nature and man have been creating for centuries. The offer of private accommodation in Skradin is of high quality, given that the town and the Tourist Board of Skradin

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THE DELICACIES OF SKRADIN Once you return from the paradise Islet of Visovac to Skradin, make sure you indulge in your usual worldly pleasures on offer in Skradin, and sample the culinary specialities of Skradin and its surroundings. The rich history and coexistence of many ethnic groups in this region is reflected in the region’s rich and fabulous food and wine offer. Skradin, a river flowing into the sea − a year’s menu − Are we islanders or mainlanders given that we eat both fish and meat − wonders Ante Pižić, an expert in preparing risotto à la Skradin, a very special delicacy, Skradin’s true slow food.

− I’d say we’re carnivores! Pork, beef, veal, goat meat, lamb, mutton, pheasant meat, chicken meat, capon meat, turkey, duck meat, goose meat, with must-have greens (vegetables) − these are our traditional foods. A while ago, both lunch and dinner used to be cooked meals! End of December − mid-January / soup, cooked beef and turkey, meat-stuffed grape leaves called arambašići, horseradish, pickled onion and shallot, salt-cured olives (unbaked), lettuce, Christmas cakes (almond and walnut truffles called favete, strudel à la Skradin, cake à la Skradin) From February onwards, the beginning of spring / cleansing the body, modest greens (vegetables), different types of beans, barley, lentils, corn, wheat, chickpea, dried broad beans, pork sausage, homemade sausage, cured meat with sauerkraut; spring arrives with foraged edible plants, common sow thistle, wild onions cooked with olive oil and wine vinegar; the very first pancetta, the very first broad beans, green peas... From Easter onwards / lamb, from Palm Sunday the very first lamb is cooked, lamb offal prepared in many different ways Summer / tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchinis, a bit of pancetta; here comes the time of tomato sauces, stuffed paprika (without any rice), no roux... Given this merging of the Krka River, the Prokljan Lake and the sea, there are plenty of different types of fish (except scorpion fish) − bass, several types of mullet (oštrica, glavatac…), there also used to be tuna fish, eels called bižot, shrimps (from the Prokljan Lake), smelt called čokalica, cuttlefish, squid, shellfish (mussels, Noah’s Ark shell, oysters, warty Venus, scallops...).

other top American restaurants and wine shops in the US and worldwide. The lovely and cosy restaurant of the Bibich family in Plastovo is sure to take you on a culinary pleasure ride. Your hosts will certainly see to it by offering you, besides their superb wines, their original culinary specialities, such as a bream fillet in carob with cuttlefish, cheese and smoked trout parfait dusted with trout caviar, fresh cheese and chive filled borek, prawns. It’s pointless to continue listing all their other specialities, as you’d be much better off sampling their sensational food and wine offer on the premises of the Bibich Winery and Restaurant in Plastovo. You’re sure to take delight in the picturesqueness of this small village, the cosy atmosphere of this familyrun restaurant and the hosts’ hospitality − but, above all, in their specially prepared and inventive foods and selected wines. A further reference is one by the well-known, though sadly recently deceased, worldfamous chef and gourmand, author, travel documentarian and presenter Anthony Bourdain. As a connoisseur of world cuisine and wine, Anthony Bourdain was delighted with the food and wine offer of  the Bibich family.

01 Ante i Paško-Božo Pižić, majstori skradinskoga rižota Ante and Paško-Božo Pižić, experts in preparing risotto à la Skradin 02 Skradinski rižot Risotto à la Skradin 03 Riblje delicije Prokljanskog jezera Seafood delicacies of the Prokljan Lake

Bibich vinery In Skradin, make sure you visit, amongst other things, the world-famous Bibich Winery and their exceptionally high quality restaurant in the Town of Plastovo near Skradin. This winery has nurtured the family tradition of wine production since the 15th century. They’ve won international acclaim with their wines, such as Debit, Ambra, Grenache G6, Lučica riserva, Bas de Bas, Plavina, Pošip P9, Sangreal Shiraz and Merlot, Mosca d’Oro and others. Bibich wines have found their way to the wine lists of the best restaurants around the world, and this in cities such as New York, Tokyo, Stockholm, Los Angeles, Miami and many 03

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GASTRO Piše/By _ Ozren Kanceljak

Fotografije/Photos _ Damir Fabijanić

NOVI SPLITSKI GASTRONOMSKI IDENTITET SPLIT’S NEW CULINARY IDENTITY Splitska gastronomska ponuda danas izgleda bitno drugačije nego prije samo nekoliko godina. Mnogo je novih, inovativnih restorana i chefova. Ovo je mali portret vinske i gastronomske scene novoga Splita. Suvremenoga, svjetskoga, ali i dalje svoga. Split’s culinary offer today seems significantly different from what it was like just a few years ago. There are many new, innovative restaurants and chefs. What follows is a small portrayal of the food and wine scene of this new Split. Contemporary, cosmopolitan, but still its own.

harmonizaciji globalizacije i lokalnih vrednota čini se da je Split pronašao dobitnu formulu. Grad koji se najprije razvio unutar zidina starorimske palače cara Dioklecijana sve je donedavno bio pretežito tranzitna točka prema brojnim dalmatinskim otocima. U posljednjih je nekoliko godina Split postao turističko odredište s najbržim rastom u Hrvatskoj. Split se promijenio. Prihvatio je brojne globalne standarde turističke ponude,

ali istodobno uspijeva zadržati i snažan originalni identitet. I upravo se u tom nadopunjavanju, interakciji i međuigri globalizma i lokalizma stvaraju nova splitska rješenja i vrijednosti. Rađa se novi splitski gastronomski identitet.

n harmonising globalisation and local values, Split seems to have found a winning formula. A city that initially developed within the walls of the ancient Roman palace of Emperor Diocletian was, until recently and

predominantly, a transit point in one’s journey to one of the many Dalmatian islands. Over the past few years, Split has become the fastest growing tourist destination in Croatia. Split has changed. It has adopted many of the global standards in terms of its tourist offer, having managed to retain its strong original identity. And it’s precisely in globalism and localism complementing each other, interacting and interplaying that Split’s new solutions and values are created. Split’s new culinary identity is being born.

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PARADOX Upitate li bilo kojeg Splićanina tko je bio pionir spajanja globalnih eno i gastro trendova s domaćim proizvodima, uvjereni smo da bi odgovor bio Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar. Kako se mijenjala percepcija splitskog turizma, tako je i Paradox od svojeg otvaranja 2012. godine postao simbol novoga gastro Splita. Počeo je kao mali ambiciozan wine bar preko puta stražnjeg ulaza u splitski HNK, da bi danas djelovao na prestižnoj lokaciji u secesijskoj zgradi u Ulici bana Jelači-

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ća. Osnivači Zoran Pejović i Marko Sučić ustrajali su na isključivo domaćim vrhunskim namirnicama. Uvijek su u ponudi bila probrana vrhunska hrvatska vina uz koje se može guštati u izvanredno uklopljenim dalmatinskim sirevima, domaćim medovima i džemovima, gotovo zaboravljenim ukiseljenim, sušenim ili mariniranim delicijama poput motara, kapula, kapara, poma ili smokava te naravno šaroliku izboru domaćih mesnih prerađevina, s posebnim naglaskom na vrhunskim, probranim pršutima. Danas Paradox ima prekrasnu terasu

s pogledom na grad koja može primiti 90 gostiju kao i moderno klimatiziran wine bar za bijeg od vrućina. Should you ask any resident of Split who’s been a pioneer of blending global wine and food trends with local products, we’re pretty certain that the answer would be Paradox Wine & Cheese Bar. As the perception of Split’s tourism was changing, Paradox has, since its opening in 2012, become a symbol of Split’s new culinary identity.

01 Elegantni vinski ugođaj Paradoxa The elegant vinous ambiance of Paradox 02 Izbor domaćih sireva, primjerena pratnja vinima A selection of local cheeses paired with wines

It started out as a small, yet ambitious wine bar across the rear entrance of Split’s Croatian National Theatre. It then moved to a prestigious location in an Art Nouveau building on Ban Jelačić Street. The founders Zoran Pejović and Marko Sučić persisted in using exclusively domestic top quality ingredients. Their offer has always included top quality Croatian wines to be savoured alongside various Dalmatian cheeses, locally produced honey and jams, the almost forgotten pickled, dried or marinated delicacies, such as sea fennel, onions, capers, tomatoes or figs and, of course, a wide array of domestic meat products, with special emphasis on top quality prosciutto. Today, Paradox boasts a stunning terrace from which a view of the city stretches, being able to seat up to 90 guests, as well as a modern air-conditioned wine bar to escape to from hot weather. 01

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ŠTORIJA BY BIBERON U jedinstvenu i nesvakidašnjem prostoru smještenome na promenadi prepoznatljivih vizura grada Splita nalazi se restoran čiji zidovi svjedoče o povijesti Dioklecijanove palače staroj 1700 godina. Nema mnogo mjesta na svijetu koja se mogu pohvaliti iznimnim uređenjem usklađenim sa zahtjevnim konzervatorskim normama, a da se pritom diče i prekrasnom terasom u blizini mora. Ovo je mjesto zamišljeno kao spoj intrigantne gastronomske i enološke ponude, probranih okusa i ugodnog ambijenta, a pokretač priče jedna je od najistaknutijih i najpopularnijih zvijezda hrvatske gastro

scene − chef Ivan Pažanin. Nadahnut modernom mediteranskom kuhinjom, ali čvrsto privržen lokalnoj tradiciji, utkao je godine svojeg iskustva u maštovit i izazovan meni kako bi stvorio jedan od najboljih restorana dalmatinske prijestolnice. Restoran Štorija spoj je povijesti, jedinstvene atmosfere bezvremenskog ambijenta i vrha eno-gastronomske ponude te nudi priču mediteranskog ugođaja koji bi za boravka u Splitu bilo šteta propustiti. Štorija’s unique and unusual premises are located on the promenade with recognisable views of the city of Split, whose walls

Moderner Kunst Stiftung Ludwig u Beču, Zentrum für Kunst und Medientechnologie Karlsruhe i IFA Galerie u Bonnu. Minimalnim sredstvima, često i nematerijalnim elementima poput svjetla, umjetnik ostvaruje maksimalni efekt. Njegovi procesi rada utjelovljuju dosljedne i jasne principe u dovođenju različitih elemenata rada u harmonične odnose. Začudna jednostavnost već na intuitivnoj razini uvlači promatrača da otkriva taktike kojima je umjetnik ostvario neki rad. Polazeći od vlastitog tijela i njegovog odnosa s umjetničkom materijom, njegovi radovi postaju svojevrsni nasjer ne može drugačije ali on može na isti način slikati jer želi 02

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biti umjetnik koji tako slika. Ili pripadati nekom umjetničkom razdoblju, stilu. Hrvatski tekst: Goran Petercol jedan je od najprisutnijih hrvatskim umjetnika u međunarodnom kontekstu danas. Danas živi i radi na relaciji Rijeka-Rovinj te surađuje s Galerijom Gregor Podnar u Berlinu i Galerie Ursula Krinzinger u Beču. Izlagao

bear witness to the history of Diocletian’s Palace which is 17 centuries old. There aren’t many places in the world that can boast an exceptional interior design blended in perfectly with demanding conservation standards, as well as a stunning terrace near the sea. The restaurant was conceived as a fusion of an alluring food and wine offer, select tastes and a pleasant ambiance. The initiator of this story is one of the most prominent and most popular stars of the Croatian culinary

scene − chef Ivan Pažanin. Inspired by modern Mediterranean cuisine, but firmly attached to Split’s local tradition, he’s woven his many years of experience into an imaginative and exciting menu with a view to creating one of the finest restaurants in the Dalmatian capital. Štorija restaurant is an amalgam of history, a unique and timeless ambiance, and the very top of the wine and food offer, telling a story of a Mediterranean atmosphere which you’re sure to regret not savouring.

01 Ivan Pažanin, chef restorana Štorija by Biberon Ivan Pažanin, the chef of Štorija by Biberon restaurant 02 Izniman ambijent restorana Štorija by Biberon u okrilju Dioklecijanove palače Štorija by Biberon’s exceptional atmosphere in the heart of Diocletian’s Palace 03 Štorija by Biberon, terasa na splitskoj rivi s pogledom na brodove The terrace of Štorija by Biberon’s on Split’s seafront with a view of ships

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01 Cocktail bar Noor, Mazzgoonov novi prostor Cocktail Bar Noor, Mazzgoon’s new premises 02 Mazzgoon, novi dizajn u starom ambijentu Mazzgoon’s modern interior design of an old space

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MAZZGOON U samom centru palače stare 1700 godina, duboko u hladu kamenih kućica i uskih uličica, u Bajamontijevoj ulici na broju 1 nalazi se restoran i dvorište Mazzgoon, jedno od najpopularnijih odredišta svih namjernika otvorenih prema novim avanturama, modernim reinterpretacijama tradicionalnih recepata i duhovitim poigravanjima poznatim, uvijek svježim namirnicama. Dobivanje mjesta u restoranu u sezoni se često može činiti kao nemoguća misija, ali vrijedi se potruditi i rezervirati stol unaprijed. Jela iz Mazzgoona govore stotinu jezika. Kako redovito mijenjaju sezonske jelovnike, ondje se uvijek mogu naći reminiscencije drevnih starogrčkih i latinskih utjecaja, sve do obrisa Portugala, Španjolske i, naravno, susjedne Italije. I zato kažu: Vjerujemo kako je moguće čitav svemir smjestiti na tanjur. Zato spravlja-

mo izvanredna jela koja pričaju nezaboravnu priču jedinstvenog svijeta i kulture. I tako jela uz ponudu vrhunskih vina te petnaestak originalnih signature koktela i zanimljivih osvježavajućih napitaka pričaju jednu novu, originalnu Mazzgoon priču, kako sami kažu, Splita 21. stoljeća. U sklopu bistroa Mazzgoon djeluje i bar Noor koji je svojim signature koktelima pokrenuo pravu revoluciju na domaćoj koktel sceni. The Mazzgoon restaurant and courtyard − one of the most popular destinations of chance guests and visitors open to new adventures, modern reinterpretations of traditional recipes and humorous creations using familiar and always fresh ingredients − is located at the very heart of Split’s 1700-year old palace, deep in the shade of stone houses and narrow streets, at No. 1 Bajamonti Street. Getting a table at

the restaurant during high season can often seem like a mission impossible, but it’s worth trying and booking one in advance. Mazzgoon’s dishes speak a thousand words. As they regularly change their seasonal menus, their dishes always exude a reminiscence of Ancient Greek and Latin influences, and hint at Portugal, Spain and, of course, neighbouring Italy. That’s why they say: We believe that it’s possible to place the entire universe on a plate. That’s why we prepare great dishes that tell an unforgettable story of a unique world and culture. Their dishes − complemented by an offer of top quality wines and some fifteen original signature cocktails and interesting refreshing drinks − indeed tell a new, original Mazzgoon story, as they themselves say, of Split of the 21st century. Mazzgoon’s premises are shared with Noor Bar, which started a real revolution with its signature cocktails on the local cocktail scene.

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MA:TONI Opušteni ambijent podruma konobe Ma:Toni osvaja na prvi pogled. Konobom smještenom u blizini hotela Park te najpoznatije gradske plaže Bačvice vlasnici lokala, bračni par Tisija i Toni Arnerić, upisali su i taj dio Splita u gastronomsku kartu. Iz jelovnika i ponude vina te posebice craft piva vidi se da ne robuju šablonama te da vole putovati. Svoje dojmove potom kombiniraju s lokalnim namirnicama i tradicijom. U njihovoj konobi osjećaju se utjecaji fusion azijske kuhinje, Španjolske i Portugala, što svim jelima donosi odmak od rutine. Posebno su ponosni na dvije krajnosti kojima nastoje ugoditi raznim prehrambenim navikama: od posebnih menija za vegetarijance do pomno odabranih velikih T-bone, rib-eye i porterhouse 01

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odrezaka. Na pitanje u kojem smjeru žele razvijati Ma:Toni odgovaraju da će i dalje istraživati kuhinje svijeta, ali i sve bogatiju ponudu lokalnih obiteljsko-poljoprivrednih gospodarstava te uvrštavati što više autentičnih lokalnih proizvoda. U skoroj budućnosti otvorit će i vlastiti OPG na Braču odakle će donositi svoje voće i povrće. The relaxed ambiance of the cellar tavern Ma:Toni wins you over at first glance. With their tavern located near Park Hotel and the most famous city beach of Bačvice, the owners of Ma:Toni, spouses Tisija and Toni Arnerić, put that part of Split on the culinary map. Their menu, and wine and craft beer list prove that they’re not slaves to things standard and ordinary, and that they love travelling. They then combine

their impressions with local ingredients and tradition. In their dishes, the influences of Asian fusion cuisine, Spain and Portugal are felt, distancing them from routine. They’re particularly proud of the two extremes of food preference and taste that they strive to satiate: from special vegetarian menus to carefully selected large T-bone, rib-eye and porterhouse steaks. If asked about the direction that they’d like to see their Ma:Toni develop, their answer is that they’d like to continue exploring the cuisines of the world, as well as the increasingly richer offer of local family farms, and that they’d like to include in their offer as many authentic local products as possible. In the near future, they’re also planning to open their own family fresh produce farm on the Island of Brač.

01 Tisija i Toni Arnerić, Ma:Toni Tisija and Toni Arnerić, Ma:Toni 02 Ma:Toni, ambijent za uživanje Ma:Toni, an atmosphere to enjoy

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01 Zrno Soli, idila nad morem Zrno Soli, sea idyll 02 Split na dlanu A view of Split

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ZRNO SOLI Kad ste u Splitu i čujete da postoji restoran s pogledom od milijun dolara, možete odmah pretpostaviti da se to odnosi samo na restoran Zrno Soli, smješten povrh središnje splitske marine. No osim ugođaja i posebnoga doživljaja koji dugo nosite u sebi, za uspjeh restorana zaslužna je ponajprije strategija vlasnika

Ive Vrdoljaka, koji smatra da je domaća, autohtona namirnica najbolja namirnica te da je svaki gost VIP gost, a ističu i da su među onima koje su služili danska kraljica, tajlandska princeza, Guns N’ Roses i dr. Činjenica da restoran ima Michelinovu preporuku govori da su na tom putu i svjetski prepoznati, a njihova jela pripadaju zdravoj mediteranskoj kuhinji koju je podržao i UNESCO zaštitivši mediteranski način prehrane kao nematerijalnu baštinu. Mladi, ali već s posebnim prizvukom priznati glavni chef Stjepan Vukadin priprema tradicionalna jela, ali ih za goste sklone avanturama hrabro unapređuje i reinterpretira novim tehnikama. Restoran Zrno Soli gostovao je početkom 2018. u Londonu te uspješno gradi mostove prema svjetskim gastronomskim destinacijama. Sretna budućnost restorana uz postojeći je tim gotovo zajamčena. Splićani s ponosom kažu: Zrno Soli je splitski, ali i svjetski, a krilatica restorana glasi: Nama na čast − Vama u slast! When in Split you hear that there is a restaurant with a million-dollar view, this can only refer to the Zrno Soli restaurant overlooking Split’s central marina. But, besides the ambience and the special experience

that you’ll take with you, the restaurant’s success is the result of, first and foremost, the strategy of the owner Ivo Vrdoljak, who believes that local, autochthonous ingredients are the best ingredients, and that every guest is a VIP guest, highlighting that they’ve served such clients as the Queen of Denmark, the Thai Princess, Guns N’ Roses and others. The fact that the restaurant is a Michelin-recommended restaurant speaks volumes about their work having been acclaimed. Their dishes are dishes of a healthy Mediterranean diet, which has been supported and promoted by UNESCO, protecting it as an intangible cultural heritage. The young, but already critically acclaimed chef Stjepan Vukadin has been preparing traditional dishes improving them boldly and reinterpreting them using novel cooking techniques for the restaurant’s adventure-seeking clients. The Zrno Soli Restaurant toured London in early 2018 and has successfully been building bridges to the world’s culinary destinations. Given its existing team, the restaurant’s future does look bright and promising. The residents of Split proudly say: Zrno Soli is Split’s, but also the world’s, while the restaurant slogan says: It’s our honour to please you!

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BOKERIA KITCHEN & WINE Šećući se ulicama Dioklecijanove palače, gotovo je nemoguće, s koje god strane došli, zaobići Bokeria Kitchen & Wine. Restoran je smješten u Domaldovoj 8 i već na prvi pogled ostavlja dojam da je ovdje riječ o ozbiljnome mjestu gdje ništa nije prepušteno slučajnosti. Od interijera koji odiše grandioznošću, s velikim šankom u sredini lokala, naglašenim pompoznim željeznim lusterom, po mjeri napravljenim starinskim drvenim ormarom s ladicama koji namjerno podsjeća na one nekadašnje željezare Mikačić, koja se davno nalazila u ovome prostoru. No istodobno je postignuta i topla, intimna atmosfera za svakim stolom. Pažljivo je dizajniran svaki detalj, a ponuđen je i originalni jelovnik koji podsjeća na tradicionalna dalmatinska jela kao i na nešto što ste jeli već negdje drugdje po svijetu. Utjecaji Mediterana vidljivi su u brojim detaljima, a koncept se temelji na lokalnim namirnicama i reinterpretacijama

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dalmatinskih jela na drugi, danas globalno iznimno popularan i prihvatljiv način. Bokeria je obiteljski projekt u vlasništvu obitelji Bokavšek, čijih je pet članova zaduženo u svakome pogledu uspješnoga restoranskog poslovanja. Rasporedili su se i preuzeli odgovornost od odabira najboljih namirnica do edukacije osoblja, marketinga i financija, no svi obvezno sudjeluju u kreiranju sezonskih jelovnika, iza kojih stoji naporan rad mladoga tima u kuhinji. Jelovnik u Bokeriji gotovo je uvijek kratak, ali istodobno pruža ponešto za svačije nepce. Među ribljim i mesnim jelima, tjesteninama i rižotima neizostavne su i zanimljive kombinacije predjela koja se mogu kombinirati i kao zasebni zalogajčići ili tapasi, a savršeno se sljubljuju i s pomno odabranim vinima. Vinsku kartu uglavnom kreira menadžer Luka Bokavšek, koji je ljubav prema vinima razvio u Kaliforniji, gdje je živio za vrijeme studiranja na priznatome sveučilištu UCLA.

01 Bokeria, ugodan prostor za gastronomsko opuštanje Bokeria’s pleasant atmosphere for culinary enjoyment 02 Domaćinska briga o svakom tanjuru The hosts’ attention to each plate

U suradnji sa sommelierima odabrano je više od 80 etiketa vrhunskih butelja, a posebna pozornost posvećena je upravo hrvatskim vinima, koja se gostima s ponosom predstavljaju. Nakon velikoga vlastita uspjeha Bokeria je prošle godine dobila i mlađu sestru Bokamorru, prvi pizza & cocktails koncept u Hrvatskoj. Zbog predivnoga i raskošnog interijera i impozantnoga bara u kojemu možete uživati u signature koktelima kao i u najpopularnijim klasicima, Bokamorra će vam pružiti doživljaj nalik fine diningu na kakav u uobičajenim pizzerijama nismo naviknuli. Pizze su ručno rađene i peku se u krušnoj peći koja je ukrašena zlatnim mozaikom i

dominira interijerom, a posebno je za ovaj projekt izrađena u Napulju. Namirnice nabavljaju izravno iz Italije, a potom ih kombiniraju s onime najboljim što daje Dalmacija pa tako nastaju njihove originalne kombinacije. Osim klasika poput Margherite, obvezno morate probati signature pizze kao što su Cheesus ili Porco Mio, a za one koji se odvaže na potpuno drugačiji doživljaj, tu je Smokvizza, slatkasta varijanta pizze napravljena od domaćega rogačeva brašna u kombinaciji s medom, smokvama i talijanskom stracciatellom. Resident DJ zadužen je za vrhunsku glazbu i odličnu atmosferu pa je ovo mjesto sjajan izbor bilo da želite samo uživati u baru i koktelima ili i u ležernoj večeri. Zbog velike popularnosti među lokalcima svakako preporučujemo rezervaciju stola unaprijed. Walking through the streets of Diocletian’s Palace, it’s almost impossible to miss

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Fotografije/Photos: 64, 65, 66_Matea Vrčković, Maksim Bašić

Bokeria Kitchen & Wine from whichever side you arrive. The restaurant is located at No. 8 Domaldova Street, and leaves an impression that this is a serious place where nothing is left to chance. From its interior exuding grandeur, its large and centrally positioned bar, an accentuated pompous iron chandelier, a custom-made antiquelooking wooden cabinet with drawers that were meant to remind of the drawers of the once Mikačić hardware store that used to be there. Yet, at the same time, a warm and intimate atmosphere has been achieved at each table. Every detail was

carefully designed, and they offer an original menu that reminds of traditional Dalmatian dishes as well as of something you’ve already eaten elsewhere in the world. The influences of the Mediterranean are visible in a number of details, and the restaurant’s concept is based on local ingredients and reinterpretations of Dalmatian dishes in different and today globally extremely popular and acceptable ways. Bokeria Kitchen & Wine is a family project owned by the Bokavšek family, whose five members are in charge of all aspects of running a successful restaurant business.

They’ve distributed all the responsibilities amongst themselves, ranging from selecting the best ingredients to staff training, marketing and finance, but all family members participate in creating their seasonal menus, backed by the hard work of their young team in the kitchen. Bokeria’s menu is almost always short, but it does offer something for everyone’s palate. They offer fish and meat dishes, pasta and risottos, as well as interesting appetiser combinations that can be combined as separate snacks or tapas, and that are perfectly matched with carefully selected wines. The

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01 Bokamorra, pizza & cocktails, zanimljiv spoj tradicionalnoga i modernoga Bokamorra, pizza & cocktails, an interesting blend of the traditional and the modern 02 Bokamorra, ugođaj za gledanje i degustiranje Bokamorra’s ambiance to take in and savour

wine list is mainly created by restaurant manager Luka Bokavšek, who developed a love for wines in California, where he lived while studying at the UCLA. In collaboration with sommeliers, over 80 top quality wine labels have been selected, with special attention given to Croatian

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Fotografije/Photos: 64, 65, 66_Matea Vrčković, Maksim Bašić

wines, which they are proud to present to their guests. After Bokeria’s great success, Bokamorra, Bokeria’s younger sister, was opened last year − the first pizza & cocktails concept in Croatia. Thanks to its stunning and luxurious interior, and impressive bar where you can savour both signature and the most popular classic cocktails, Bokamorra has been offering a fine dining experience which is atypical of typical pizzerias. Their pizzas are handmade and baked in a bread oven, which is decorated with a golden mosaic, which dominates the interior, and which was custom-made in Naples. They import their ingredients directly from Italy, and then combine them with the best of Dalmatia, which is how their original combinations are created. Besides classics, such as pizza Margherita, sampling their signature pizzas such as Cheesus or Porco Mio is an absolute must. Those who’re bold and dare to try a completely different taste and have a completely different experience, there’s Smokvizza, a sweet variant of pizza, which is made from local carob flour combined with honey, figs and Italian stracciatella. Their resident DJ is in charge of playing good music and creating a great atmosphere, which makes this place a great choice regardless of whether you’re looking for a good bar and cocktails or just a leisurely night out. Because it’s so popular amongst locals, we strongly recommend  booking a table in advance.

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REPORT

bogatoj baštini koju Hrvatska već stoljećima njeguje i uspješno čuva nalaze se i brojni autohtoni poljoprivredno-prehrambeni proizvodi. Oni stvaraju specifičan gastronomski identitet Hrvatske koji kroz turistički tanjur postaje sve više prepoznatljiv i izvan nacionalnih granica. Projekt zaštite i brendiranja lokalnih autohtonih proizvoda snažnije je temelje dobio 2013. godine ulaskom Hrvatske u Europsku uniju, a Ministarstvo poljoprivrede od tada aktivno podržava sve udruge proizvođača koje žele dobiti neku od triju EU oznaka kvalitete. Riječ je o zaštićenoj oznaci izvornosti, zaštićenoj oznaci zemljopisnog podrijetla i zajamčeno tradicionalnome specijalitetu. Do sada je Hrvatska takvu vrstu zaštite osigurala za 19 autohtonih

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poljoprivrednih i prehrambenih proizvoda. Još je osam proizvoda u postupku registracije oznake na razini EU-a. Zaštitom hrvatskih autohtonih proizvoda dajemo dodanu vrijednost našim vrhunskim domaćim proizvodima koji su jedinstveni u svijetu, a potrošačima jamčimo iznimnu kvalitetu i originalan način njihove pripreme. Uživajte i dobar tek! - ističe potpredsjednik Vlade Republike Hrvatske i ministar poljoprivrede Tomislav Tolušić. NERETVANSKA MANDARINA − ZAŠTIĆENA OZNAKA IZVORNOSTI Dolina Neretve najljepše je što ljudsko oko može vidjeti iz zraka. Usred krša, ispod veličanstvene kamene kulise dinarskoga planinskog lanca teče smirujuće zelena, ponekad kraljevski

plava rijeka života − Neretva. Na putu do Jadranskoga mora sa svoje lijeve i desne obale ostavlja plodno tlo koje lokalno stanovništvo stoljećima obrađuje i održava pogodnim za poljoprivrednu proizvodnju. Tu, na kršu ukradenim komadićima zemlje koju natapa Neretva, tu je domovina neretvanske mandarine. Mandarina je prilično rasprostranjeno voće Sredozemlja, a neretvanska mandarina od ostalih se izdvaja po tomu što ranije dozrijeva, ima tanku i glatku koru koja se lako guli, nema sjemenke, a i kriške se lako odvajaju. Nije ni čudo što je upravo ta mandarina najdraža poznavateljima južnoga voća, a osim toga, svojim blagim, uravnoteženim i osvježavajućim mirisom uveseljava jesenske dane. Iako se mandarina u Hrvatskoj uzgaja na svega 1400 hektara, proizvedemo je i do nekoliko puta više od nacionalnih potreba pa u našoj mandarini uživaju i ljubitelji izvan granica Hrvatske. Neretvanska mandarina nosi zaštićenu oznaku izvornosti od 15. srpnja 2015. godine. Proizvodnja neretvanske mandarine ograničena je na područje doline Neretve, koja sa sjevera graniči s Bosnom i Hercegovinom, s juga je granica omeđena obalom Jadranskoga mora, a s istočne, jugoistočne i sjeverozapadne strane odijeljena je dinarskim planinskim lancem. Mandarina je izvrstan izvor vitamina A, B i C pa je idealna namirnica za jačanje

imuniteta jer uz folnu kiselinu organizam opskrbljuje i kalcijem, magnezijem, cinkom i željezom. Kora mandarine sadrži hranjive spojeve koji učinkovito snižavaju loš kolesterol, a znanstvenici su otkrili da sprječava pretilost, pruža zaštitu od dijabetesa tipa 2 i ateroskleroze, čime posljedično štiti od srčanoga i moždanog udara. Mandarina usto daje specifičan okus mnogim jelima dalmatinske kuhinje, a sok od mandarine najbolji je početak jesenskoga dana. Čak i ako zaboravimo na sve gore navedeno, mandarina dokazano popravlja raspoloženje, pomaže kod stresa, depresije i tjeskobe. MED HRVATSKIH PČELINJAKA Med je slatka, gusta, viskozna tekuća ili kristalizirana tvar koju ljudi do danas nisu uspjeli proizvesti umjetnim, industrijskim putem. Med za razliku od običnog šećera, koji je samo sirova energija, sadrži jednostavne, lako probavljive šećere fruktozu i glukozu, vitamine, minerale, bjelančevine i fermente. Pri kupnji meda nije svejedno koji med odabrati. Sigurnost u podrijetlo domaćeg meda pruža znak Med hrvatskih Sigurnost u podrijetlo domaćeg meda pruža pčelinjaka, kojim se u ovome trenutku znak Med hrvatskih koristi 280 proizvođača, a nalazi se na pčelinjaka. 88.000 staklenki meda. The Med hrvatskih Riječ je o neobveznu sustavu označava- pčelinjaka designation is a guarantee that you are nja koji provodi Hrvatska poljoprivredna buying locally produced agencija s ciljem informiranja potrohoney.

šača o podrijetlu i utvrđenoj kvaliteti meda proizvedenog na pčelinjacima u Republici Hrvatskoj. Korisnici znaka hrvatski su pčelari i objekti za primarnu proizvodnju pčelinjih proizvoda koji su upisani u Evidenciju pčelara. Kvaliteta meda koji nosi oznaku Med hrvatskih pčelinjaka kontrolira se u laboratoriju Hrvatske poljoprivredne agencije. Pakiranje meda označava se naljepnicom koja sadrži neponovljivi serijski broj pomoću kojega je moguće provjeriti podatke o podrijetlu i vrsti meda putem internetske aplikacije dostupne na stranici www.med.hpa.hr. Ove godine Ministarstvo poljoprivrede uvodi Školski medni dan kojim ćemo promovirati med s hrvatskih pčelinjaka našim školarcima te tako educirati djecu i njihove roditelje o važnosti konzumiranja meda i njegove hranjivosti, nagla-

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Europske oznake kvalitete − zaštićena oznaka izvornosti, zaštićena oznaka zemljopisnog podrijetla i zajamčeno tradicionalni specijalitet European Quality Labels − Protected Designation of Origin, Protected Geographical Indication, and Traditional Speciality Guaranteed

šava potpredsjednik Vlade Republike Hrvatske i ministar poljoprivrede Tomislav Tolušić. Odabirom proizvoda s hrvatskih farmi i polja kupujemo proizvode dokazane sljedivosti, podrijetla i kvalitete! Uvjerite  se da je domaće najbolje!

umerous autochthonous agricultural and food products are found in the rich heritage that the Republic of Croatia has nurtured and preserved successfully for centuries. They make up Croatia’s specific culinary identity, which has become, with the help of tourism, increasingly recognisable even beyond its borders. The local autochthonous product protection and branding project gained momen-

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tum once Croatia joined the European Union in 2013. Since then, the Ministry of Agriculture has been actively supporting all producer associations aiming to obtain one of the three EU quality labels, which are: Protected Designation of Origin, Protected Geographical Indication and Traditional Speciality Guaranteed. To date, 19 autochthonous agricultural and food products from Croatia obtained one of the said three EU protection labels, and eight more products are in the process of registering for one of the labels at EU level. − The protection of Croatian autochthonous products adds value to our top quality local products that are unique in the world, and guarantees consumers exceptional quality and original preparation methods. Enjoy and bon appétit! − says the Deputy Prime Minister of the Republic of Croatia and Minister of Agriculture, Tomislav Tolušić. NERETVANSKA MANDARINA − PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN The Neretva Valley is the most beautiful sight that people can set their eyes on from

air. Amidst karst surroundings, below the magnificent stone backdrop of the Dinaric Alps, the soothing greens and at times the royal blues of the river of life − Neretva − flow. On its way to the Adriatic Sea, on both of its banks, it leaves fertile soil that the local population has been tilling for centuries and maintaining for agricultural production. There, on soil stolen from the karst and watered by Neretva, is the homeland of Neretvanska mandarina. The mandarin is a fairly common Mediterranean fruit, and the Neretvanska mandarina is distinguished from others by its earlier ripening, a thin, smooth peel which is easy to peel off, it is seedless, and its segments are easily separated. It is no wonder that this mandarin is the favourite of connoisseurs of southern fruits. In addition, it brightens up the days of autumn with its mild, balanced and refreshing fragrance. Although mandarins are cultivated on only 1400 hectares in Croatia, up to several times more than the national requirement is produced, hence allowing admirers beyond Croatia’s borders to enjoy our mandarin. Neretvanska mandarina has had the Protected Designation of Origin label since 15th July 2015. The production of Neretvanska mandarina is limited to the Neretva Valley, which borders Bosnia and Herzegovina to the north, and is encir-

cled by the coast of the Adriatic Sea to the south and the Dinaric Alps to the east, southeast and northwest. The mandarin is an excellent source of vitamins A, B and C, making it ideal for boosting the immune system because it supplies the body with calcium, magnesium, zinc, iron and folic acid. Mandarin peel contains nutritive compounds that effectively reduce bad cholesterol, and scientists have discovered that it prevents obesity, protects against type 2 diabetes and atherosclerosis, thereby protecting against heart attack and stroke. Also, the mandarin is a fruit that provides a specific flavour to many dishes of the Dalmatian cuisine, and mandarin juice is the best way to start an autumn day. Even if we were to neglect all of the above, the mandarin has been proven to improve your mood, help with stress, depression and anxiety. MED HRVATSKIH PČELINJAKA Honey is a sweet, thick, viscous liquid or crystallised substance that people have not yet been able to produce artificially or industrially. Unlike ordinary sugar which is only raw energy, honey contains simple, easily digestible fructose and glucose, vitamins, minerals, proteins and ferments. When purchasing honey, which honey you choose is important. The Med hrvatskih pčelinjaka designation label is a guarantee

that you are buying locally produced honey, and is currently used by 280 producers and can be found on 88,000 jars of honey. This is an optional labelling system implemented by the Croatian Agricultural Agency with the aim of informing consumers about the origin and verified quality of honey produced in apiaries in the Republic of Croatia. Users of the label are Croatian beekeepers and bee yards for the primary production of apiculture products entered in the Register of Beekeepers. The quality of honey bearing the Med hrvatskih pčelinjaka designation label is controlled by the laboratory of the Croatian Agricultural Agency. The packaging of honey is marked with a label containing a unique serial number that enables verification of data on the origin and type of honey through a web application available at www.med.hpa.hr. This year, the Ministry of Agriculture is introducing the School Honey Day to Croatian schools to promote honey from Croatian apiaries to our schoolchildren, thereby looking to educate children and their parents about the importance of honey and its nutritive value, highlights the Deputy Prime Minister of the Republic of Croatia and Minister of Agriculture, Tomislav Tolušić. By choosing products from Croatian farms and fields, you purchase products of attestable traceability, origin and quality! Check it out yourself that domestic, locally  produced products are the best!

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OTOCI Islands

Piše/By _ Slobodan Bukvić

Fotografije/Photos _ Saša Pjanić

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Supetar je živopisan, zanimljiv, lijep i u mnogočemu osebujan grad na otoku Braču. Zato i nije neobično što stalno privlači nove posjetitelje, ali vraćaju mu se i oni koji ga odavna dobro poznaju. Svi uživaju u Supetru. I ne samo u njemu nego i u njegovoj neodoljivoj i čarobnoj okolici. Supetar is a picturesque, fascinating, beautiful and very special town on the Island of Brač. It comes as no surprise that it keeps on attracting not only those who’ve already gotten to know it well, but new visitors as well. Everyone enjoys Supetar. And not only the town, but also its irresistible and enchanting surroundings.

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Mauzolej obitelji Petrinović The Petrinović Family Mausoleum CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

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01 Maslinici u blizini Splitske Olive groves in the vicinity of Splitska 02 Muzej uja, Škrip Olive Oil Museum, Škrip

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03 Riva u Splitskoj Splitska’s seafront 04 Opušteni ugođaj supetarskog restorana, kala Ignjata Joba The relaxed atmosphere of a restaurant in Supetar, Ignjat Job’s Street 05 Suveniri iz Muzeja uja u Škripu Souvenirs from the Olive Oil Museum, Škrip

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A. Mandić 01

01 Supetar iz zraka s pogledom na Brački kanal i Split Supetar from the air overlooking the Brač Channel and Split 02 Voi’Sa festival urbane glazbe, kolovoz 2018., Ludovic Llorca aka Art of Tones Voi’Sa Urban Music Festival, August 2018, Ludovic Llorca aka Art of Tones

upetar je najveće mjesto na otoku Braču, njegovo administrativno, gospodarsko i turističko središte. Važan je i kao najbliža poveznica otoka Brača sa Splitom i kopnenim dijelom južne Dalmacije. Mogli bismo ga slobodno nazvati i bijelim kamenim vratima Brača jer ga krasi veličanstvena ljepota rive, ali i izražajna bjelina tradicionalnih kamenih kuća izgrađenih od svjetski poznatoga bračkog kamena. Supetar i njegova okolica imaju toliko autohtonih povijesnih priča da samo jedan dolazak onamo nije dovoljan kako bi se otkrile sve tajne i zanimljivosti. Trebate uvijek iznova dolaziti i otkrivati bogatu povijest, tradicionalnu opuštenost, ali i šarm suvremenosti. Približavajući se Supetru iz Splita, već

na prvi pogled, s trajekta, očarat će vas sklad bijelih kamenih kuća s karakterističnim crvenim krovovima... šarm Mediterana. Pri uplovljavanju trajekta u luku Supetar, čak i slučajnim pogledom u more primijetit ćete njegovu kristalnu čistoću i tirkizne nijanse. Istodobno, bujna vegetacija oko grada i maslinici na blago brdovitim brežuljcima nagovijestit će vam zanimljivo zaleđe i očuvanu prirodu. Ubrzo ćete se oduševiti poznatim bračkim uvalama i raznovrsnim plažama, od onih s mnoštvom kupača do tihih i romantičnih, na kojima možete naći samo svoju oazu mira. Čisto more, pitomi zeleni krajolici, savršen sklad stare i nove kamene arhitekture, brojni maslinici, izvrsna autohtona gastronomska ponuda i nadasve ugodni i susretljivi ljudi omogućit će vam nevjerojatne doživljaje i iskustva. No ne ostaje samo na tome! Supetar i njegova okolica nude vam i bogatu prošlost te povijest s mnogo zanimljivih priča. Krenimo od prve, vezane uz kamen iz zaleđa Supetra po kojemu su Supetar i Brač postali poznati u svijetu. Od bračkog su kamena izgrađene mnoge svjetski poznate građevine. Najvažnija je među njima Dioklecijanova palača u

Splitu, koju je UNESCO uvrstio u popis zaštićene svjetske baštine. Ovaj ljetnikovac velikoga rimskog cara Dioklecijana sagrađen je u 3. stoljeću, a kamen se dovozio iz neposredne blizine Supetra, iz mjesta Splitska udaljenoga samo osam kilometara od Supetra. To je malo romantično mjesto ugodno za odmor, a vrijedi ga posjetiti jer se u njegovoj blizini nalaze ostaci rimskih kamenoloma. Jedan je od njih i Rasohe, do kojega se dolazi pješice iz Splitske posebnom tematskom stazom zvanom Herkules. Tu ćete vidjeti i kameni reljef rimskoga junaka božanske snage Herkula, a želite li pustiti mašti na volju, možete u mislima dočarati i njegovu daleku prošlost. Poželite li, možete na trenutak predahnuti i u lijepoj uvali mjesta Splitska, kao i u mirnim okolnim plažama okruženima borovom šumom. Mnoge crkve, dvorci i kuće u Supetru i njegovoj okolici izgrađeni od bračkoga kamena pripovijedaju o životima ljudi i njihovim sudbinama. Župna crkva Navještenja Marijina u Supetru, koja dominira ovim bijelim gradom, također je izgrađena od kamena iz ovoga kraja. Njezina povijest ujedno je i povijest Supetra. Ostaci ranokršćanskog mozaika i sarkofazi pronađeni pored ove župne crkve iz 6. st. svjedoče o vrlo ranim počecima povijesti grada, čije se ime prvi put spominje 1423. godine. Naziv Supetar grad je dobio po sv. Petru kao svojem prvom zaštitniku. I prva je župna crkva, izgrađena 1604. godine na ostacima starokršćanske bazilike, dobila naziv po sv. Petru. Nažalost, u velikom požaru 1729. potpuno je izgorjela

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da bi je uz velik napor i entuzijazam mještani ponovno izgradili već 1733. godine. Tada poprima današnji izgled te postaje glavna župna crkva Navještenja Marijina. Posjetite li tu crkvu, svakako ne smijete propustiti crkveni muzej s bogatom kolekcijom slika, povijesnih dokumenata, knjiga i relikvija. Svoju povijest i bogato kulturno nasljeđe, kao i zaštitnike sv. Petra i sv. Pavla, grad Supetar slavi svake godine 29. lipnja uz veliku crkvenu i svjetovnu feštu. Brački kamen poznat je i u novijoj povijesti. Upotrijebljen je u izgradnji mnogih zgrada u Hrvatskoj i u svijetu, među kojima valja istaknuti Bijelu kuću u Washingtonu. Iz kamena i kamenoloma proizašle su i druge priče vezane uz poznate kamenoresce i klesare kao i priznate umjetnike i kipare. Među njima je i najpoznatiji supetarski kipar Ivan Rendić, jedan od najznačajnijih hrvatskih kipara i predvodnik hrvatskoga modernog kiparstva. Svakako valja posjetiti zbirku radova toga umjetnika u Galeriji Ivan Rendić u Supetru te njegove umjetničke radove na supetarskom groblju. Osobito je impresivan njegov reljef Pietà. Na groblju se nalazi i Mauzolej obitelji Petrinović, koji je od bračkoga kamena izgradio još jedan poznati hrvatski kipar, Toma Rosandić iz Splita. Mauzolej je vrlo uočljiv i iz veće udaljenosti, a skladno je sjedinjen s prirodom i zelenilom borova. I najpoznatiji hrvatski kipar i umjetnik svjetskoga glasa Ivan Meštrović isklesao je mnoga svoja glasovita umjetnička djela

upravo od bračkoga kamena. Spomenimo samo neke: Dom Hrvatskoga društva likovnih umjetnika u Zagrebu (poznat kao Meštrovićev paviljon), radno-stambena Meštrovićeva rezidencija u Splitu (poslije pretvorena u Meštrovićevu galeriju), Račićev mauzolej u Cavtatu... Među značajnim umjetnicima Supetra svakako treba spomenuti i slikara Ignjata Joba, koji je u nasljeđe ostavio slike s motivima ovoga mediteranskog podneblja te njegova jednostavnog života i običaja. Tragove svojeg boravka u Supetru ostavio je i veliki hrvatski pjesnik i boem Tin Ujević te mnogi drugi hrvatski umjetnici. Ništa manje zanimljiva nije ni priča vezana uz malo mjesto Škrip u neposrednom zaleđu Supetra. Ovo mirno i slikovito mjesto na brežuljku s prekrasnim pogledom jedno je od najautentičnijih mjesta okolice Supetra, ali i cijeloga otoka Brača. Posjetom Škripu steći ćete dojam o tradicionalnom načinu življenja, a zacijelo ćete uživati i u tamošnjoj jednostavnosti te zanimljivoj arhitekturi sačuvanoj sve do današnjih dana. Tu je smješten i jedan od najposjećenijih muzeja u Hrvatskoj, Muzej otoka Brača, koji se nalazi u kuli Radojković iz 16. stoljeća. Temelji tog muzeja potječu još od 1500 g. pr. Krista i ranije. U donjem dijelu muzeja i kule nalazi se rimski mauzolej u kojemu, prema legendi, počivaju Priska i Valerija − supruga i kći cara Dioklecijana. Posebnu povijesnu i kulturološku važnost imaju i crkvica Sveti Duh iz 4. st., koja se nalazi u okviru mjesnoga groblja, te dvorac obitelji Černić na glavnom trgu, izgrađen u 16. st. Da je baština Škripa osobito zanimljiva, svjedoči i to što je na inicijativu grada Supetra pripremljen projekt za obnovu povijesnokulturnih vrijednosti ovoga jedinstvenog mjesta u zaleđu Supetra, koju je prepoznala i Europska unija te iz svojih fondova već financirala njegovu revitalizaciju, a nastavit će to činiti i dalje. Škrip je poznat i kao rodno mjesto te posljednje počivalište poznatoga hrvatskog sociologa, ali i jedinstvenog čakavskog pjesnika Stjepana Štefe Pulišelića. Dojmljiva je njegova pjesma o proživljenoj sudbini i patnji mnogih ljudi ovoga ali i drugih hrvatskih otoka i krajeva iz kojih su se iseljavali u potrazi za boljim životom: A kad bi za lasnjin kruhon v tuji svit iso, ako je ikako mogo nose bi se vroti. I čin je stigo v stini bi greb podigo s velon i teškon pločon da nikad ne bi pobigo, ispisano je

na nadgrobnoj ploči toga velikoga humanista i filantropa. Hvale je vrijedna inicijativa grada Supetra i turističke zajednice da u spomen na cijenjenoga Škripljanina i Supetranina već osam godina redovito održavaju Festival čakavske riči Štefe Pulišelić. Grad Supetar, osim spomenutoga festivala, ima vrlo bogatu kulturnu i zabavnu ponudu ne samo tijekom ljetne sezone nego i tijekom cijele godine. Spomenimo Brač Film Festival, zanimljiv i raznovrstan program u okviru Supetarskog lita, Smotru hrvatskog otočkoga folklora, ciklus koncerata Dive u Supetru, Festival dalmatinskih otočnih klapa, gastronomske vikende i niz drugih manifestacija. Maslinovo ulje Supetra i okolice ubraja se među najbolje u svijetu. Uz ulje je vezana i posebno cijenjena gastronomska tradicija, osobito kad je riječ o specijalitetima od ribe i plodova mora. Valja kušati i posebno pripremljenu bračku janjetinu, ali i nezaobilazne slastice poput hrapoćuše, arancina, paradižeta, fritula... Supetrani su se potrudili svojim gostima ponuditi pješačku i gourmet stazu neposredno iznad Supetra s nazivom Dolčevita. Prolazeći tom stazom obilazite nekoliko manjih mjesta i zanimljivih restorana te pritom možete bez grižnje savjesti uživati u tamošnjoj raznovrsnoj gastronomskoj i eno-ponudi jer ugodnom šetnjom po prekrasnoj prirodi kalorije odmah i potrošite. Napuštajući Supetar i promatrajući na odlasku ta bijela kamena vrata Brača, teško ćete izbjeći osjećaj tuge što odlazite. No istodobno znate da ćete se svakako 03 Muzej otoka Brača, Škrip The Museum of the Island of Brač, Škrip 04 Park na supetarskoj rivi A park in Supetar on the seafront

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I. Petrović Šugar

vratiti. Supetar je jedan od onih gradova koji vas očaraju ne samo na prvi nego i na drugi, treći i svaki sljedeći pogled... I nepovratno vas vežu. I to ne samo zbog svoje slikovitosti te ugodnoga i sadržajnog boravka ondje nego i zbog toliko neotkrivenih priča koje još morate otkriti. Baš kao što kaže slogan grada i turističke zajednice Supetra, otključaj doživljaj i otvorit će ti se čarobni svijet povijesnokulturne baštine, boja, okusa, mirisa, zabave i privlačnih sadržaja. Zar se onda može odoljeti a da se ponovno ne posjeti ovaj prekrasni mediteranski i jadranski  grad i njegovu zanimljivu okolicu?

upetar is the largest town on the Island of Brač, and is the island’s administrative, economic and tourist centre. It’s also important as the closest connection between the Island of Brač and Split, as well as the mainland part of southern Dalmatia. It could easily be called the white stone gate of the Island of Brač, because it boasts a majestically beautiful waterfront, as well as a pronounced whiteness of its traditional stone houses built of the world famous Brač stone. There are countless historical stories about both Supetar and its surroundings, making a single visit insufficient to discover all its secrets and curiosities. It lures you back to discover its rich history, prescriptive laid-

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backness, and the charm of its modernity. Whilst approaching Supetar on a ferry from Split, you’ll be captivated at first sight by the harmony of white stone houses covered with typical red rooftops... the charm of the Mediterranean. As the ferry sails into the Supetar ferry port, you cannot not notice just how crystal clear its turquoise waters are. At the same time, the lush vegetation surrounding the town and olive groves on rolling hills hint at a fascinating hinterland and preserved nature. You’re soon to be dazzled by the famed coves and varied beaches of Brač, from those swarming with swimmers to serene and romantic ones, where you’re bound to find your very own oasis of peace. Its clean sea, gentle green landscapes, old and new stone architecture in perfect harmony, its countless olive groves, its great autochthonous offer of foods, and its pleasant and friendly people will be an endless source of amazing experiences. But there’s more! Supetar and its surroundings are enwrapped in a rich history and a past with many curious stories. Let’s start with the first one, which is linked to stone mined in the hinterland of Supetar, which Supetar and the Island of Brač became famous for the world over. Many world famous buildings were built of Brač stone. The most important of these is Diocletian’s Palace in Split, included in UNESCO’s World Heritage List. This summer mansion of the great Roman Emperor Diocletian was built in the 3rd century and the stone was transported from the immediate proximity of Supetar, from a settlement called Splitska, only eight kilometres from Supetar. This small romantic town is perfect for a holiday, with the remains of Roman quarries in its vicinity well worth visiting. Rasohe is one such quarry, accessible on foot from Splitska across a theme trail called Hercules. There’s a stone relief of Hercules, a Roman hero of divine strength, whose ancient history is bound to fire your imagination. You can then take a break in the beautiful bay of Splitska, as well as in the peaceful, pine-tree-enveloped surrounding beaches. Many of the churches, palaces and houses in Supetar and its surroundings built of Brač stone have countless stories to tell of the lives of people and their destinies. The parish Church of the Annunciation of Mary in Supetar, which dominates this white town, was also built of stone from the region. Its history is the history of Supetar. The remains

of an early Christian mosaic and sarcophagi found adjacent to this parish church from the 6th century bear witness to the very early beginnings of the town’s history, whose name was first mentioned in 1423. Supetar was named after St. Peter, the town’s first patron saint. The town’s first parish church, built in 1604 on the remains of an early Christian basilica, was also named after St. Peter. Unfortunately, it was completely burnt down in a great fire in 1729, but was rebuilt already in 1733 thanks to the great effort and enthusiasm of the local community. Its appearance has remained the same to date, and it was then that it became the main parish Church of the Annunciation of Mary. Should you visit the church, make sure you visit the church museum boasting a rich collection of paintings, historical documents, books and relics. Every year on 29th June, the town of Supetar celebrates its history and rich cultural heritage, and commemorates its patron saints of St. Peter and St. Paul with great church and secular festivities. A more recent history has also been tied to Brač stone. It was used in the construction of many buildings in both Croatia and the world, amongst which the White House in Washington is to be singled out. Brač stone and its quarries are the source of other stories, stories about famed stonecutters and stonemasons, and acclaimed artists and sculptors. Amongst them is the most famous Supetar-born sculptor Ivan Rendić, one of the greatest Croatian sculptors and leader of modern sculpture in Croatia. Be sure to visit his collection of works exhibited at the Ivan Rendić Gallery in Supetar and his artwork at the Supetar cemetery. His Pietà relief is particularly impressive. The cemetery also houses the Petrinović Family Mausoleum, also built of Brač stone by yet another famous Croatian sculptor, Toma Rosandić from Split. The mausoleum can be spotted from a distance and is blended in with the surrounding nature and greenery of the pine trees perfectly. The most celebrated Croatian sculptor and world famous artist, Ivan Meštrović, also sculpted many of his acclaimed works of art exactly from Brač stone. These are just some of them: the Home of Croatian Artists in Zagreb (also known as the Meštrović Pavilion), Meštrović’s residence and studio in Split (later converted into the Meštrović Gallery), the Račić Family Mausoleum in Cavtat...

Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, 21000 Split, Croatia tel/fax: +385 (0)21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

www.dalmatia.hr • info@dalmatia.hr

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A. Mandić

Plaža Acapulco, Supetar / Acapulco Beach, Supetar

As far as other great Supetar-born artists are concerned, Ignjat Job is to be mentioned, who left a legacy of paintings with motifs of this Mediterranean climate, and its simple life and customs. The great Croatian poet and bohemian Tin Ujević and many other Croatian artists also left a trace of their stay in Supetar. The story of the small town of Škrip in the immediate hinterland of Supetar is just as interesting. This quiet and picturesque town on a hill from which a beautiful view stretches is one of the most authentic towns not just in the surroundings of Supetar, but also on the entire Island of Brač. Should you visit Škrip, you’ll get hold of an idea of a traditional way of life, and you’re bound to enjoy the town’s simplicity and fascinating architecture that has been preserved to this day. Škrip is also the home of one of the most visited museums in Croatia, the Museum of the Island of Brač, located in the Radojković Tower from the 16th century. The foundations of the museum date from 1500 BC or earlier. The lower part of the museum and tower houses a Roman mausoleum, which is, according to legend, the final resting place of Prisca and Valeria, the wife and daughter of

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Emperor Diocletian. The Church of the Holy Spirit from the 4th century, to be found within the local cemetery, and the Černić Family Castle on the main square from the 16th century are also historically and culturally very important. That the heritage of Škrip is notably interesting is also testified to by the fact that, at the initiative of the town of Supetar, a project of the reconstruction of the historical and cultural values of this unique place in the hinterland of Supetar has been prepared, which was recognised by the European Union which has already financed and will continue to finance its revitalisation. Škrip is also the birthplace and the final resting place of a famous Croatian sociologist and exceptional Chakavian poet, Stjepan Štefe Pulišelić. Impressive is his poem about the fate and suffering of many people from this and other Croatian islands and regions from which they emigrated in search of a better life. If I were to go to a foreign land to earn an easier living, if I could at all, I’d return here. And as soon as I returned, I’d erect in rock a tomb with a large and heavy tombstone for it never to take to flight. This is what is engraved on the tombstone of this great humanist and

philanthropist. The fact that, eight years ago, the town of Supetar and its Tourist Board initiated the Štefe Pulišelić Chakavian Vernacular Festival (which has been held regularly ever since) in memory of this esteemed Škrip- and Supetar-born poet is praiseworthy. Besides the said festival, the town of Supetar offers a very rich cultural and entertainment programme, and this not only during the summer season, but throughout the year. The following should be made mention of: the Brač Film Festival, the Supetar Summer Festival and its interesting and varied programme, the Croatian Island Folklore Meeting, the Divas in Supetar concert cycle, the Dalmatian Island Klapa Festival, Supetar’s Gastronomic Weekends and many other events. Olive oil produced in Supetar and its surroundings is amongst the best in the world. A particularly highly-rated food tradition is associated with olive oil, especially as far as fish and seafood specialities are concerned. Make sure you also sample lamb prepared à la Brač, as well as its not-to-be-missed desserts, such as hrapoćuša (a traditional, rich walnut cake), arancini (candied orange peel), paradižet (egg white dumplings), fritulas (deep fried sweet dough fritters)... Directly above town, Supetar also boasts a pedestrian and gourmet walking trail called DolceVita. Walking along this trail, you get to stop by several smaller places and interesting restaurants, whilst enjoying a variety of foods and wines without feeling guilty, given that you get to burn off the calories immediately by going for a stroll through stunning nature. As you leave Supetar and watch the white stone gate of the Island of Brač recede, you’re bound to feel sad about leaving. But, at the same time, you know that you’ll definitely return. Supetar is one of those towns that keeps on enchanting you... making you bond with it irreversibly. And this not only thanks to its picturesqueness and your experience-packed stays there, but also thanks to the many incredible stories you are yet to discover. The slogan of the town and the Tourist Board of Supetar says it best: unlock the experience and a magical world of historical-cultural heritage, colours, tastes, smells, fun and entertainment will open up. It’ll be impossible to resist revisiting this alluring Mediterranean and Adriatic town, and its absorbing sur roundings.

KITCHENS for US

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ZAGREB Ulica Grada Vukovara 284, Tel+385 1 366 44 90 SPLIT Trg Hrv. Bratske Zajednice 4, Tel+385 21 32 36 80 www.artinterijeri.hr PreporuÄ?ujemo aparate CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018 _ 85

NAŠA ODREDIŠTA OUR DESTINATIONS

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Piše/By _ Nada Mirković Fotografije/Photos _ Šime Lugarov

Kopenhagen je već dugo svjetska prijestolnica inovativnoga kulinarstva, no je li i prijestolnica suvremene, inovativne arhitekture? Za tu se titulu bori nekoliko najvećih metropola svijeta, a Kopenhagen je zasigurno među njima.

Pješačko-biciklistički most Inderhavnsbroen, koji zovu i Most poljupca. U pozadini se vide Opera i spalionica otpada Amager Bakke. The pedestrian and cyclist Inderhavnsbroen bridge, also called the Kissing Bridge, with the Opera House and the Amager Bakke waste-toenergy power plant in the background

Copenhagen has long been the world capital of innovative cooking, but is it also the capital of contemporary, innovative architecture? Some of the world’s largest metropolises are fighting for this title, and Copenhagen is most definitely one of the competitors. CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

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Noćni prizor Crnog dijamanta, Kraljevske knjižnice A night view of the Black Diamond, the Royal Danish Library

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Skulptura od nehrđajućeg čelika Gradski fraktal (City Fractal) umjetnice Elisabeth Toubro, koja se nalazi ispred Crnog dijamanta City Fractal stainless steel sculpture by Elisabeth Toubro, located in front of the Black Diamond

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Pogled na zgradu Kraljevskoga kazališta (Skuespilhuset) A view of the Royal Danish Playhouse (Skuespilhuset)

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Interijer Kraljevskoga kazališta The interior of the Royal Danish Playhouse

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01 Pogled na zgradu Kraljevskoga kazališta (Skuespilhuset) iz smjera Opere A view of the Royal Danish Playhouse (Skuespilhuset) from the Opera House 02 Studentski dom Tietgenkollegiet The Tietgenkollegiet student residence hall 03 Prošireni dio staroga muzeja Ordrupgaard The extension of the old Ordrupgaard Museum

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01 Danski nacionalni akvarij (Den Blå Planet) Denmark’s National Aquarium (Den Blå Planet) 02 Danac ispred Kraljevskoga kazališta (Skuespilhuset) A Dane outside the Royal Danish Playhouse (Skuespilhuset) 03 Plesna skupina Utility by JayDee pleše s Operom u pozadini The Utility by JayDee dance company dancing, with the Opera House in the background

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ve dansko danas je in - dizajn, arhitektura, hrana, opsesija zelenim i organskim, biciklima, životom na otvorenome i po kiši i vjetru. Najedanput arhitekti, umjetnici, dizajneri, hipsteri i putnici žele vidjeti Kopenhagen, prema istraživanjima prijestolnicu najsretnijih ljudi na svijetu, i to nekoliko godina zaredom. Posjetite Kopenhagen i doživite hygge, taj specifični osjećaj životne radosti. Odakle početi istraživati Kopenhagen? Vožnja kanalima uvijek je savršen početak za upoznavanje ovoga prelijepoga grada s mnogim izdvojenim, veoma ugodnim četvrtima za život. No ako se želimo stopiti s gradom i njegovim stanovnicima, kao polazišnu točku istraživanja možemo odabrati luku i novi pješačko-biciklistički most Inderhavnsbroen (Lučki most), koji zovu i Most poljupca jer izgleda kao dva jezika koja se spajaju. S mosta se pruža sjajan pogled na stare, povijesne dijelove grada, ali i na moderne arhitektonske znamenitosti poput Crnog dijamanta, Kraljevske danske knjižnice, djelo danskih arhitekata Schmidta, Hammera i Lassena, dovršeno 1999. godine kao prvo u nizu novih, velikih, ambiciozno zamišljenih kulturnih institucija ovoga grada uz rivu. Vidjet ćete i novo gradsko kazalište, Skuespilhuset ili Kraljevsko kazalište, u koje građani ovoga grada često navrate i na opuštena druženja u kavani i restoranu s pogledom na možda najpoznatiju novu instituciju grada, opernu kuću na vodi. Zgrada Kraljevskoga kazališta osvojila je arhitektonskome uredu Lundgaard & Tranberg brojne nagrade. Neofuturističku Operu na vodi, točno preko puta kraljevske rezidencije Amalienborg, tada najskuplju na svijetu, svojem je gradu 2005. poklonila obitelj suosnivača Maerska, najveće svjetske brodarske kompanije. Ljubav prema svojoj zemlji i gradu Danci veoma često potvrđuju privatnim donacijama. Mož-

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da i najljepši muzej Kopenhagena, Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, s prelijepim zimskim vrtom, gradu je 1888. poklonio pivar Carl Jacobsen, sin osnivača pivovare Carlsberg. Građani Kopenhagena sami su skupljali donacije za Muzej Thorvaldsen, zbirku radova i osobnu kolekciju slika njihova obožavanoga neoklasicističkog kipara iz prve polovice 19. stoljeća, smješten uz povijesnu kraljevsku palaču Christiansborg, danas sjedište danskog parlamenta. Novi veliki studentski dom i centar Tietgenkollegiet nazvan je upravo po velikome danskom biznismenu i donatoru C. F. Tietgenu. Nalazi se u Ørestadu, novome Kopenhagenu, četvrti koja se gradi toliko ambiciozno da je vrijedi istražiti. U njoj je već nekoliko značajnih građevina moderne arhitekture poput ovog centra

kružnog oblika, koji je 2006. osmislio proslavljeni arhitektonski ured Lundgaard & Tranberg. Tu je i novo prepoznatljivo obilježje Kopenhagena, veoma skupa koncertna dvorana i sjedište filharmonije Koncerthuset, otvorena 2009. godine. Dvoranu je projektirao Jean Nouvel, 01 Detalj parka skulptura Muzeja moderne umjetnosti Louisiana A detail of the sculpture park of the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art 02 Skulpture umjetnika Alexandera Caldera, Almost Snow Plow i Little Janey-Waney, u sklopu vanjskog postava Muzeja moderne umjetnosti Louisiana Alexander Calder’s sculptures Almost Snow Plow and Little Janey-Waney, which are part of the exterior setup of the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art 03 Detalj iz postava Muzeja moderne umjetnosti Louisiana A detail from the setup of the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art

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AIRLINES 3/2018 97 991 Volvo centar Zagreb, 01 670 07 00 | Volvo centar Moto-Ris, 01 38 21 570 | Autocentar Baotić, 01 29 000 29 | CROATIA Volvo centar Split, 021_ 260

Mlada glazbenica za vrijeme pauze između proba u Operi. U odsjaju se nazire kupola kraljevske rezidencije Amalienborg. A young musician during a break between rehearsals at the Opera House, with the dome of the Amalienborg royal residence reflected in the window

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proslavljeni dobitnik Pritzkerove nagrade, takozvanog arhitektonskoga Nobela, u sklopu DR Byena, novoga sjedišta danske nacionalne radiotelevizije. U blizini Kopenhagena nalazi se i značajan rad Zahe Hadid, proširenje staroga muzeja Ordrupgaard s velikom zbirkom umjetnosti sjeverne Europe 19. stoljeća, koju je svojoj zemlji početkom prošloga stoljeća donirao biznismen i kolekcionar Wilhelm Hansen. Sjevernije od Kopenhagena nalazi se jedan od najljepših muzeja svijeta, Muzej moderne umjetnosti Louisiana, također privatna donacija, a proslavljeni arhitekt Jean Nouvel smatra ga jedinstvenim u svijetu po tome što se u njemu park, priroda, more, arhitektura i umjetnost stapaju u jedno, prožimaju i nadopunjuju. Ovaj muzej, u kojem se uživa opušteno, radosno, bez redova, gužvi i onog osjećaja da ga je nemoguće savladati, kao da nudi i objašnjenje danske duše, njihova pristupa životu i ljepoti. Kopenhagen je već dugo glavno odredište za one opsjednute kulinarskim iskustvima. Uz najbolji svjetski restoran Noma, sada u verziji 2 i na novoj lokaciji,

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chefa Renéa Redzepija, koji je redefinirao nordijsku forage cuisine, koja se temelji na organskome uzgoju hrane, često uz sam restoran, ili na hrani koja se pronađe na otvorenome, tu su i proslavljeni restorani chefova koji su nekad radili u Nomi. Zanimljivo je da se ne postavljaju kao konkurencija, već jedni druge podržavaju i tako zajedno razvijaju svoju proslavljenu kulinarsku scenu. Mnogi restoran Amass smatraju još boljim od Nome; čak je i Redzepi nedavno izjavio da nudi najbolje od Kopenhagena. U Nomi je radio i Christian Puglisi, koji je otvorio restoran Relae posve nepretenciozna ugođaja bez obzira na Michelinovu zvjezdicu, a blizini su i njegov bar i pizzerija. Važan je i Geranium chefa Rasmusa Kofoeda, koji nije radio u Nomi već u hotelu D’Angleterre, a osvojio je tri Michelinove zvjezdice prije Redzepija. Svi ovi proslavljeni restorani istodobno su ogledni primjerci specifično danskoga dizajna interijera. No riječ je o iznimno skupim restoranima pa se vrijedi upoznati i s vrlo živom, izrazito kvalitetnom street food scenom Kopenhagena, primjerice u novoj

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zatvorenoj tržnici Torvehallerne, gdje možete isprobati kavu proslavljenoga Coffee Collectivea, koju mnogi smatraju najboljom u gradu, a time i u svijetu jer nitko nije tako posvećen izvrsnosti kao Danci, čak i kad je riječ o kavi. Posjetite i otočić Papiroen u luci, sjajnu street food lokaciju gdje možete jesti na ležaljkama

Detalj moderne arhitekture Opere A detail of the modern architecture of the Opera House

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i promatrati brodove i jedrilice kako mirno klize lukom načičkanom novim kulturnim institucijama Danske, proslavljenim djelima suvremene arhitekture.  E, to je hygge.

ll things Danish are in today − design, architecture, food, their obsession with all things green and organic, bicycles, life in the great outdoors, come rain or shine. All of a sudden architects, artists, designers, hipsters and travellers, they all want to experience Copenhagen, the capital of the happiest people in the world, according to research, and this for several years in a row. Visit Copenhagen to experience hygge, their specific joie de vivre. So, where do you start exploring it? Taking a boat canal ride is always a perfect starting point for exploring this beautiful city with many distinct, very pleasant neighbourhoods and residential quarters. But, if what you’re after is blending in with the city and its residents, then you should set out from the Port of Copenhagen and the new pedestrian and bicyclist Inner Harbour Bridge (Inderhavnsbroen), also called the Kissing Bridge because it looks like two entwined tongues. From the bridge, a stunning view stretches of the old, historic parts of the city, but also of modern architectural gems, such as the Black Diamond, the Royal Danish Library, a work by the Danish architects Schmidt, Hammer and Lassen, completed in 1999 as the first in a series of the city’s new, grand and ambitiously conceived cultural institutions to be built along Copenhagen’s waterfront. You’ll also see the new city theatre, Skuespilhuset or the Royal Danish Playhouse, which is often frequented by the residents of Copenhagen to socialise in the relaxed atmosphere of the playhouse’s cafe and restaurant overlooking perhaps the most famous new city institution, the Copenhagen Opera House stretching over the water. The Royal Danish Playhouse has won numerous awards for the Lundgaard & Tranberg Architects who designed it. Right across the Amalienborg royal residence, this neofuturistic and most expensive opera house in the world at the time it was built was donated in 2005 to Copenhagen by one of the co-founding families of Maersk, the world’s largest overseas cargo carrier. Danes often confirm their love for their country by private donations. Perhaps the most beautiful museum in Copenhagen, Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek, with a stunning winter garden, was

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donated to the city in 1888 by the brewer Carl Jacobsen, the son of the founder of Carlsberg Brewery. The residents of Copenhagen collected donations themselves for the Thorvaldsen Museum, a collection of works and the personal collection of paintings by their much admired neoclassicist sculptor from the first half of the 19th century, located adjacent to the historic Christiansborg Royal Palace, today the seat of the Danish Parliament. Tietgenkollegiet, a great new student residence hall, was named after the great Danish businessman and donor C. F. Tietgen. It is located in the Ørestad district, the new Copenhagen, a neighbourhood built so ambitiously that it’s worth exploring. It’s already home to several important works of modern architecture, such as the said circular student residence hall, which was designed in 2006 by the acclaimed Lundgaard & Tranberg Architects office. Koncerthuset − the seat of the Danish National Symphony Orchestra and a rather expensive concert hall opened in 2009 − is also there as the latest famous landmark of Copenhagen. The hall was designed by Jean Nouvel, an acclaimed Pritzker Architecture Prize winner, often referred to as architecture’s Nobel Prize, as part of DR Byen, the new offices of the Danish Broadcasting Corporation. Near Copenhagen, there’s another important piece of architecture, namely Zaha Hadid’s work, an extension of the old Ordrupgaard Museum which is home to a large collection of 19th-century northern European art, donated to Denmark by the businessman and collector Wilhelm Hansen at the beginning of the last century. North of Copenhagen, there’s one of the most beautiful museums in the world, the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, also a private donation, which the famous architect Jean Nouvel considers unique in the world, because in it a park, nature, the sea, architecture and art are blended into one, pervading and complementing each other. This museum − which can indeed be enjoyed in a relaxed and joyful way, without queuing and crowds, and without the feeling that it’s impossible to see and experience all it offers − seems to offer an explanation of the soul of Denmark, their approach to life and beauty. Copenhagen has long been a major destination for those obsessed with culinary experiences. Besides the world’s best restaurant Noma, now in version 2.0 and at a new address, owned by chef René Redzepi, who redefined Nordic forage cuisine − which is based on organic food production often

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SHOP TAX FREE IN CROATIA

Spend a minimum of 740.01 HRK and ask for your Tax Free Form TAX FREE ШОППИНГ В ХОРВАТИИ Совершите покупку на сумму от 740.01 кун и попросите Tax Free форму 在克罗地亚购物退税最低消费 740.01 克罗地亚库纳，并索取您的退税单 (Tax Free Form) 크로아티아에서 면세 쇼핑을 740.01 HRK 이상 사용 시 물품 판매 확인서를 받으실 수 있습니다.

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Stambeni projekt VM Houses The VM Houses housing project

farmed beside the restaurant or on foods foraged in the wild − there are also other acclaimed restaurants owned by chefs who used to work in Noma. It’s fascinating to note that they don’t compete against each other, but rather support each other, thus developing their celebrated culinary scene jointly. Many consider Amass Restaurant

Vožnja kanalima uvijek je savršen početak za upoznavanje ovoga prelijepoga grada s mnogim izdvojenim, veoma ugodnim četvrtima za život. Taking a boat canal ride is always a perfect starting point for exploring this beautiful city with many distinct, very pleasant neighbourhoods and residential quarters.

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to be even better than Noma; even Redzepi himself has recently said that Amass offers the best of Copenhagen. Christian Puglisi, who also worked at Noma, opened Relae Restaurant whose atmosphere is entirely unpretentious regardless of the fact that it’s a Michelin-starred restaurant, with his bar and pizzeria nearby. The Geranium Restaurant owned by chef Rasmus Kofoed is also important, although he didn’t work at Noma, but at D’Angleterre Hotel, and won three Michelin stars even before Redzepi did. All of these critically acclaimed restaurants are at the same time brilliant examples of a very specific Danish interior design. Given that these are very expensive restaurants, it’s worth getting to know the very lively, high quality street food scene of Copenhagen, for example at the new fresh food market of Torvehallerne, where you can sample coffee made by the celebrated Coffee Collector, considered by many to be the best in the city, and probably the world since no one is as devoted to excellence as the Danes, even if we’re only talking about coffee. Make sure you also visit the Paper (Papiroen) Island in the port, a fabulous street food location where you can eat on deck chairs while observing ships and sailboats quietly gliding through the port which houses the new cultural landmarks of Denmark, celebrated works of contemporary architecture. Well, that’s hygge. 

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Esplanade Zagreb Hotel Tradicija, vrhunski dizajn, glamur i stil u srcu Zagreba Tradition, exceptional design, glamour and style in the heart of Zagreb

restižni zagrebački hotel Esplanade, poznat desetljećima kao hram vrhunske gastronomije, tradicije, dizajna i užitaka, sagrađen je davne 1925. godine s ciljem pružanja luksuznog smještaja i usluga putnicima glasovitog Orient Expressa koji je prometovao na liniji Pariz - Istanbul. Taj arhitektonski dragulj Zagreba od svojih je početaka bio mjesto ključnih društvenih događanja glavnoga grada, stoga ne čudi što su poznate osobe oduvijek odsjedale upravo u hotelu Esplanade, a među njegove se istaknute goste ubrajaju kraljevske obitelji, državnici, filmske i glazbene zvijezde. Elegantnom interijeru suvremena ozračja

uz očaravajuću kombinaciju secesijske arhitekture pridonose i visokopersonalizirana usluga te najnoviji tehnološki trendovi koji svakom gostu omogućuju nezaboravan doživljaj boravka u ovome povijesnom hotelu smještenome u neposrednoj blizini svih glavnih znamenitosti. Svaka od pomno dizajniranih i prostranih soba i hotelskih apartmana uz tradicionalan holivudski glamur i pravi osjećaj doma nudi i besplatan bežični pristup internetu, Health Clubu te mnoge inovativne usluge. Smještaj upotpunjuje vrhunski doživljaj objedovanja uz jedinstven pristup suvremenoj interpretaciji tradicionalne hrvatske kuhinje, koju predvodi chef Ana Grgić. Profinjeno ozračje i elegancija restorana Zinfandel's, uz nadaleko poznatu terasu Oleander s pogledom na park i fontanu, nudi nezaboravno fine dining iskustvo, a živopisni Le Bistro pruža ugodno ozračje pariškog šika. Inspiriran dvadesetim godinama prošlog stoljeća, kozmopolitski Esplanade 1925 Lounge Bar nudi kreativan izbor koktela i ukusnih zalogaja te glazbu DJ-a. Osim toga, hotel Esplanade pruža mnoštvo mogućnosti, kao i brojne prostore za organizaciju događanja i gala svečanosti, od kojih se svojim kupolastim krovom najviše ističe veličanstvena Smaragdna dvorana. Taj simbol Zagreba, sinonim za vrhunsku uslugu i eleganciju, uspio se postaviti kao istinska zvijezda u regiji, što dokazuju i brojne nagrade za besprijekornu kvalitetu. Spoj tradicije, istančana ukusa, profinjenosti, izvanredne usluge i posebne, iskrene veze sa Zagrebom, sugrađanima i svakim gostom svrstavaju hotel Esplanade među jedinstvene hotele u svijetu, koje svakako valja posjetiti.

agreb's prestigious Esplanade Hotel, renowned for decades as a temple of exceptional gastronomy, tradition, design, and pleasure, was built in 1925 for the purpose of offering luxury accommodation and service to travelers of the famous Orient Express, which ran the Paris-Istanbul line. Since its very beginnings, this architectural gem has served as the site of the capital's key social events, and so it comes as no surprise that celebrities have always flocked to the Esplanade. Among these renowned guests are members of royal families, statesmen, and film and music stars. The elegantly modern interiors and enchanting combination of Art Nouveau architecture, highly personalized service, and state-of-the-art trends in technology afford each guest an unforgettable stay in this his-

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toric hotel, located near all the city's notable landmarks. Each of the thoughtfully designed and spacious rooms and suites offers not only traditional Hollywood glamour and a true sense of home, but also free Wi-Fi, access to the hotel's Health Club, and many other innovative services. The accommodation is supplemented by the exceptional culinary experiences made possible through Chef Ana Grgić's uniquely modern interpretation of traditional Croatian cuisine. The sophisticated ambiance and elegance of the Zinfandel's Restaurant, with its well-known Oleander terrace and view of the park and fountain, offer an unforgettable fine dining experience, while the lively Le Bistro provides a pleasant Parisian atmosphere. Inspired by the ambiance of the 1920s, the cosmopolitan Esplanade 1925 Lounge Bar offers a creative selection of cocktails and delicious bites, while a DJ takes care of the music. In addition, the Esplanade provides a number of possibilities as well as numerous spaces to organize events and gala festivities, among which the magnificent Emerald Ballroom, with its domed roof, particularly stands out. A symbol of the city itself and a synonym for top-quality service and elegance, the Esplanade has succeeded in earning true regional star status, underlined by the numerous impeccable service awards it has been presented with. The melding of tradition, refined taste, sophistication, extraordinary service and a unique, sincere tie to the city of Zagreb, its residents, and each and every guest all render the Esplanade one of the world's must-visit unique hotels.

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A collection of our finest hotels, all with unique locations. Indulge in our sumptuous spa, take in the art on display, or just relax in our elegant rooms. Taste fine cuisine in our gourmet restaurants, enjoy our signature breakfast, and make the most of our personalised sports and relaxation activities. Together with our Bluescape, Greenscape or Townscape programme of experiences, you will feel truly reborn.

booking&info: t +385 (0)52 800 250 m info@maistra.hr w maistra.com

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REPORT

Zagreb

Četrdeset godina Rolexove izvrsnosti u Hrvatskoj The 40th anniversary of Rolex excellence in Croatia

Veliko partnerstvo započeo je 1978. godine Pero Mamić, koji je zahvaljujući besprijekornoj stručnosti postao jedan od dva Rolexova servisera u bivšoj Jugoslaviji, sa sjedištem u Zagrebu. Tijekom svoje karijere gospodin Mamić radio je i u Rolexu u New Yorku kao jedan od samo četiri člana stručne skupine. Jubilarna 40. godina partnerstva Rolexa i obitelji Mamić u znaku je i novoga velikog priznanja. Naime, Rolexov servisni centar za Hrvatsku jedan je od rijetkih u svijetu koji je statusom ravnopravan Rolexovu servisu u Švicarskoj. Ovime se nastavila uvertira u buduća desetljeća, započeta otvaranjem novog butika 2017. godine na prestižnoj adresi u Ulici Frane Petrića 7. Sofisticirani prostor prostire se na 300 m2 i nezaobilazna je destinacija za kupnju i servis Rolexovih satova.

Mamić even worked in New York for Rolex as one of only four members of an expert group. The 40th anniversary of the partnership between Rolex and the Mamić family is marked with another great acknowledgment − the Rolex service centre for Croatia is one of the very few in the world to have received a license of a status equal to the Rolex service in Switzerland. This continues the symbolic overture to the company’s future, started in 2017 with the opening of a new store at a prestigious location at No. 7 Frane Petrić Street. The sophisticated premises stretch across 300 m2 and are a must-visit Rolex retail & service spot.

Their great partnership was started by the founder, Pero Mamić, in 1978 owing to his superior expertise which launched him as one of only two authorised Rolex watchmakers in former Yugoslavia, with a head office in Zagreb. During his career, Mr

01 Sjedište Rolexa, Ženeva, Švicarska Rolex world headquarters, Geneva, Switzerland 02 Butik Mamić u Ulici Frane Petrića 7, Zagreb The Mamić store at No. 7 Frane Petrić Street, Zagreb 03 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 04 Obitelj Mamić The Mamić family

Obitelj Mamić ove godine obilježava velik jubilej − 40 godina partnerstva s Rolexom, vodećim brendom švicarske urarske industrije. The Mamić family are marking a great jubilee this year − 40 years of partnership with Rolex, the leading brand of the Swiss watch industry.

www.mamic.com.hr 04

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MODA FASHION

SLOW FASHION CONCEPT

Ime Saše Hortiga zaokupilo je hrvatsku modnu scenu prije nekoliko godina kad je talijanski Vogue istaknuo njegovu diplomsku kolekciju The New Revolutionaries kao jedan od najboljih novih ulazaka, odnosno rješenja mladih autora. Razmjerno je brzo ovaj nadareni mladić iz Đakova ostvario uzlet u Hrvatskoj, a profesionalni ga je put odveo u Švedsku, gdje danas radi.

Piše/By _ Dubravka Prpić Znaor

Saša Hortig’s name engrossed the attention of the Croatian fashion scene a few years ago when the Italian edition of the Vogue magazine singled out his graduation collection called The New Revolutionaries as one of the best new entries or solutions by a young designer. The career of this gifted young man from Đakovo took off rather quickly in Croatia, with his career path having taken him to Sweden, where he works today.

Fotografije/Photos _ Denis Butorac

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ladi hrvatski dizajner Saša Hortig još je 2013. godine s kolegicom Petrom Vuletić pobijedio na natjecanju Fashion Incubator u Osijeku, koje svake godine okuplja buduće nade. Danas radi kao Ready-to-Wear Junior Designer za brend & Other Stories u ateljeu u Stockholmu. Iako razmjerno kratka, njegova je karijera već odmaknula važnim korakom dalje jer posao u Švedskoj odlična je odskočna daska. Taj izvrsni mladi autor jedan je od onih koji odijevanje koriste kao sredstvo za promjene pa ne treba sumnjati da će se takva energija istaknuti na još mnogo modnih fronti. Zanimalo nas je što je bilo tako zanimljivo u njegovoj kolekciji The New Revolutionaries. − Uvijek sam u samostalnom radu pokušavao postavljati razna pitanja na koja ne moram nužno dobiti odgovor. Uglavnom se odnose na društveno definirane norme. Ono što odijevamo govori o tome što jesmo. Pitam se odijevamo li se na određeni način i nosimo li određene odjevne predmete zato što tako želimo ili zato što društvene norme tako nalažu − kaže Saša. Uvjeren je da je budućnost mode slow fashion, i to zbog pretjerano ubrzanog procesa izmjenjivanja trendova i plasiranja novih stvari. Slow fashion podrazumijeva kupnju odjeće od manjih proizvođača, recikliranje robe, brigu o okolišu, kupnju vintage odjeće... Ukratko, riječ je o ekološki prihvatljivu pogledu na svijet brzih trendova.

model: Robert Bojanić

Volumen i negiranje siluete područje su Sašina istraživanja Volume and the negation of the silhouette are Saša’s area of research

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Bijela klasična košulja i tamne hlače ovdje ulaze u umjetničku sferu This classic white shirt and these dark trousers enter the sphere of art

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Eksperimentalne kreacije česte su u Sašinim projektima Experimental creations often appear in Saša’s projects

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Dizajner se koristi klasičnim tonovima − crnom, bijelom i bojom konjaka The designer uses classic hues − black, white and the colour of cognac

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− Potrošač je izgubio pojam o stvarnoj vrijednosti odjevnog predmeta. Naviknut je kupovati osmišljen, proizveden i testiran proizvod, koji također treba dostaviti te izložiti u nekom prodajnom prostoru, gdje će se prodati po cijeni jednog ručka i na kraju donijeti zaradu svakome od spomenutih segmenata. Razmislimo li o procesu koji odjevni predmet prođe, vrlo se lako može zaključiti kako u tom lancu netko ili nešto ispašta. Romantičan se odnos između odjevnog predmeta i potrošača izgubio. Potrošač kupuje više, a ima osjećaj da dobiva manje. Apsurdno je da će danas potrošač radije kupiti novi odjevni predmet nego stari nositi na kemijsko čišćenje, prepraviti ga pa čak i oprati! Modna industrija proizvodi nerazumno veliku zalihu odjeće i tako zagađuje okoliš, a s druge strane toplane počinju upotrebljavati zalihe odjeće kao gorivo za grijanje te tako zamjenjuju ugljen i drvo tekstilom. Brzina izmjenjivanja odjeće podrazumijeva stalno kupovanje i bacanje

robe. Trendovi uporno pokreću taj proces, oni su zupčanici modnog sustava jer su detalji, modni dodaci i ostali elementi danas tu, a sutra već nisu. Saša smatra da je trend često reakcija na određenu atmosferu u društvu i njemu vrlo zanimljiv pojam jer pokazuje koliko zapravo ljudi kao cjelina ujednačeno razmišljaju. Živimo u turbulentnom vremenu u kojemu se mnogo toga događa u politici, digitalnom svijetu, glazbi, umjetnosti i sličnome, i sve se to odražava kao trend koji nosimo. Danas, više nego ikad, ljudi imaju želju pokazati koliko su posebni i različiti i izraziti se na sebi jedinstven način. To je opći trend koji vrijedi podržati jer govori o slobodi izražavanja. Naravno, u toj gomili različitih identiteta koje danas nudi modna industrija prilično je jasno da smo zapravo svi isti, i trend je primamljiv upravo zbog tog osjećaja pripadnosti koji nam pruža. − Odjeća je medij kojim svakodnevno komuniciramo. Ona može prenositi

Odjeća je medij kojim svakodnevno komuniciramo, ističe Saša Clothes are a medium that we communicate in every day, says Saša

Danas, više nego ikad, ljudi imaju želju pokazati koliko su posebni i različiti i izraziti se na sebi jedinstven način. To je opći trend koji vrijedi podržati jer govori o slobodi izražavanja. Today, more than ever, people have a desire to show just how special and different they are, and to express themselves in a way which is unique to them. This is a universal trend worth supporting because it speaks of a freedom of expression. snažnu poruku i postavljati razna pitanja ovisno o vremenu i kontekstu u kojemu se nalazi. Odraz je vremena u kojemu živimo pa iz odijevanja možemo iščitati društvene norme i anomalije. S druge strane, odjeća je katkad samo odjeća. Ne vidim ništa loše u izradi dobroga i kvalitetnog odjevnog predmeta koji ima jednu jedinu svrhu − da se nosi. Često u toj perspektivi pronađem osvježenje, bez pridavanja određenih moći, signala, kodova i poruka odjevnim predmetima. Moda ima tendenciju postati preozbiljna, a sve što ponekad trebate jest samo dobar kaput... Upravo je to dokaz koliko je moda životna jer bez nas taj lijepi pret-a-porter kaput nema smisla, kaže Saša i ističe kako je mnogo naučio od svoje mentorice s Tekstilno-tehnološkog fakulteta Jasminke Končić: − Naučila me da vjerujem u ono što radim. Modne uzore nemam, uvijek se divim mladim umjetnicima koji svojim

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radom pomiču granice poimanja mode, umjetnosti, društva i svijeta u kojemu  danas živimo.

s early as 2013 and in collaboration with his colleague Petra Vuletić, the young Croatian designer Saša Hortig came first in the Fashion Incubator competition in Osijek gathering future aspirants every year. Today, he is the Readyto-Wear Junior Designer for the & Other Stories brand at their Stockholm fashion studio. Although relatively short, his career has already skyrocketed given that his job in Sweden has been a great springboard. This brilliant young designer is one of those who use fashion as a means of change, so it goes without saying that this energy of his will be around on many fashion fronts. We were interested in what made his The New Revolutionaries collection so interesting. − In my independent work, I’ve always

been trying to pose different questions that I don’t necessarily need to get an answer to. And these questions mainly concern socially defined norms. What we wear speaks volumes about what we are. I wonder whether we dress in a certain way and whether we wear certain items of clothing because we want to or because social norms so prescribe − says Saša. He is convinced that the concept of slow fashion is the future of the world of fashion, and this due to the excessively accelerated process of the changing of trends and the placement of new clothes on the market. The slow fashion concept implies the buying of clothes from smaller manufacturers, the recycling of clothes, being environmentally friendly, the buying of vintage clothes... In short, it’s about an ecologically acceptable outlook on the world of fast-moving trends. − Consumers no longer have an un-

Foto/Photo: Mirna i/and Martina Marić, Model: Nikolina Matičević

Fotografije su nastale tijekom Sašine suradnje s kolegicom Petrom Vuletić − Vuletićhortig. The photos were taken during Saša’s collaboration with his colleague Petra Vuletić − Vuletićhortig.

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Minimalizam podcrtan blistavim, svemirskim stilom make-upa uz kolekciju pod nazivom RAW Minimalism underlined with a glittering, spacelike makeup style from the RAW collection

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Foto/Photo: Mirna i/and Martina Marić, Model: Nikolina Matičević

CÉLINE, BALENCIAGA, LOEWE, GUCCI, VALENTINO, SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, CHLOÉ, STELLA MCCARTNEY, VITA KIN, MONCLER, MONCLER GAMME ROUGE, M2MALLETIER, FALIERO SARTI, MAISON MICHEL, IVI JEWELRY, TOM BINNS, ACHERALI KNOFER, DELFINA DELETTREZ, ERICKSON BEAMON, GIANVITO ROSSI, LINDA FARROW LUXE, VICKI SARGE Maria Zagreb, Masarykova 8, 01-4811011 Maria Dubrovnik, Sv. Dominika bb, 020-321330 www.mariastore.hr info@mariastore.hr instagram:mariastorehr CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018 _ 117

Saša Hortig

Pitam se odijevamo li se na određeni način i nosimo li određene odjevne predmete zato što tako želimo ili zato što društvene norme tako nalažu. I wonder whether we dress in a certain way and whether we wear certain items of clothing because we want to or because social norms so prescribe. derstanding of the real value of pieces of clothing. They’re used to buying designed, manufactured and tested products, which are also to be delivered and displayed in a store where they’ll be sold at the price of a lunch and, in the end, bring in a profit to each of the said links in the chain. If we think about the process that items of clothing go through, it’s very easy to conclude that somebody or something in this chain suffers. The romantic relationship between clothes and consumers has been

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lost. Consumers buy more, yet have the feeling that they get less. It’s absurd that, today, consumers would rather buy a new garment than have an old one dry cleaned, remodelled and even washed! The fashion industry produces an unreasonably large supply of clothes and, in turn, pollutes the environment, while on the other hand heating plants have started to use clothing as heating fuel, thus replacing coal and wood with textiles. The speed at which clothes are changed implies buying and getting

rid of clothes without stopping. Trends keep up the process, they are cogs in the wheel of the fashion industry, considering that details, fashion accessories and other elements are here today and gone the next. Saša believes that trends are often a reaction to a certain social climate, and trend is a very fascinating term for him as it shows the extent to which people as a whole think uniformly. We live in turbulent times in which much is happening in politics, the digital world, music, the arts and the like, and all this is mirrored as a trend that we wear. Today, more than ever, people have a desire to show just how special and different they are, and to express themselves in a way which is unique to them. This is a universal trend worth supporting because it speaks of a freedom of expression. Of course, in this mass of different identities that the fashion industry today offers, it’s quite clear that, in reality, we’re all the same, and that any trend is alluring precisely because of this sense of belonging that it gives us. − Clothes are a medium that we communicate in every day. They can convey a powerful message and pose different questions depending on the time and context in which they’re in. They’re a reflection of the times we live in, so social norms and anomalies can be read from clothes. On the other hand, clothes are sometimes just clothes. I see nothing wrong with making a good and quality garment that has a single purpose − to be worn. For me, this perspective is often refreshing, this not needing to ascribe certain powers, signals, codes and messages to items of clothing. Fashion has a tendency to become overly serious, but all you sometimes need is just a good coat... It’s this that’s proof of just how rooted in life fashion is, because without us that lovely designer ready-to-wear coat makes no sense − Saša says and points out that he has learned a lot from his mentor at the Faculty of Textile Technology in Zagreb, Jasminka Končić: − She taught me to believe in what I do. I have no fashion role models, and I admire young artists who, through the work they do, push back the boundaries of our understanding of fashion, art, society and the world we live in today.

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Š- Lugarov

Podržali smo LENDING OUR support

Piše/By _ Mato Pejić

N. Reberšak

The roaring success of the Croatian national football team has made Croatia proud and will go down in history. Congratulations, vice champions of the world! Thanks to you, the entire world was, at one point in time, enrobed in Croatia’s red-andwhite checkers.

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Veličanstvenim uspjehom hrvatski nogometni reprezentativci učinili su cijelu Hrvatsku ponosnom i ispisali povijest. Bravo, viceprvaci svijeta! Zbog vas je svijet u jednom trenutku bio zaodjenut u crveno-bijele kvadratiće.

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egdje oko 15 sati toga 16. srpnja 2018. godine cijela je Hrvatska s nestrpljenjem čekala da se na plavome nebu iznad Lijepe Naše ukaže zrakoplov Croatia Airlinesa s najdragocjenijim teretom! Cijela je zemlja čekala let OU8003, koji je prevozio nogometnu reprezentaciju Hrvatske iz Rusije kući, ondje gdje ih je od rane zore čekalo neviđeno mnoštvo obožavatelja. A onda je zrakoplov u pratnji dva MIG-a Hrvatskoga ratnog zrakoplovstva nadletio glavni zagrebački trg, Trg bana Jelačića! Više od 500.000 ljudi oduševljeno je pozdravilo momke koji nisu osvojili pehar svjetskih prvaka izgubivši u finalu od reprezentacije Francuske. No osvojili su srca cijeloga svijeta!

Let iznad Trga bana Jelačića bio je samo početak velebnoga, neopisivo velikoga, lijepog i emotivnog dočeka hrvatskih reprezentativaca u glavnome gradu Hrvatske. Čim je Airbus 319 Croatia Airlinesa, na kojem je jasno i s pravom pisalo Bravo, Vatreni!, dotaknuo pistu zagrebačke zračne luke Dr. Franjo Tuđman, a momci se na čelu s kapetanom Lukom Modrićem i izbornikom Zlatkom Dalićem pojavili na vratima zrakoplova, nastala je erupcija oduševljenja. Takav doček Hrvatska baš nikada nije vidjela. Za put od zračne luke do centra Zagreba, koji se za normalnih dana prelazi za najviše pola sata, otvorenom je autobusu s nogometnim viceprvacima svijeta trebalo više od pet sati! Svaki metar puta bio je

Danskom. U 90 minuta igre nije bilo pobjednika, nije ga bilo ni u produžecima, da bi jedanaesterci dali heroja − Danijela Subašića! Hrvatski vratar obranio je tri penala i odveo Hrvatsku u četvrtfinale, gdje je Vatrene čekao domaćin, Rusija! I opet drama! Gol na gol, produžeci, izjednačenih 2:2 i jedanaesterci! I opet Subašić! I opet Ivan Rakitić, koji je hladnokrvno zabio onaj posljednji, presudni pogodak iz penala, kao i u prethodnoj utakmici! Svakom je pobjedom kockasto ludilo bivalo sve veće. Tko god je mogao, hitao je iz Hrvatske u Rusiju. U polufinalu je čekala reprezentacija Engleske, nova, mlada, poletna. Engleski mediji već su ih vidjeli u finalu. No Vatreni se nisu složili. Ovaj put nije bilo jedanaesteraca. Ovaj put Vatreni su sve riješili u produžetcima. Ivan Perišić pa Mario Mandžukić i finale! A u finalu velika Francuska. Možda i zbog lakšeg puta do finala, zbog više snage i svježine, Francuska je na koncu bila sretnija, spretnija i pobijedila. Pamtit će se, međutim, štošta osim gologa rezultata. Pamtit će se kako Šime Vrsaljko, taj neumorni bočni igrač Vatrenih, nakon pobjede nad Englezima nasmijan

i iscrpljen leži na hrvatskoj trobojnici. Pamtit će se kako sin Domagoja Vide, maleni David, bosonog trčkara zelenom travom moskovskoga stadiona. Pamtit će se zajedništvo, kako na terenu tako i dok svi nogometaši jednoglasno pjevaju pjesmu koja kaže da nije u šoldima sve. Pamtit će se i predsjednica Republike Hrvatske, Kolinda Grabar-Kitarović, koja se nije libila prepustiti emocijama bilo da se slavi, bilo da se tuguje. A pamtit će se i titula najboljeg igrača prvenstva Luke Modrića, i mudrost izbornika Zlatka Dalića, i činjenica da jedan pravi čovjek na pravome mjestu može promijeniti sve te od nesumnjivo talentirane generacije konačno stvoriti istinske pobjednike! I baš mu je zato, odmah nakon završetka finala, ruku došao stisnuti i pokloniti mu

Još jedan događaj za povijest koji posada na letu OU8003 neće nikada zaboraviti. Sjajne hrvatske nogometne reprezentativce Airbus Croatia Airlinesa vratio je kući. Another event that made history and that the crew aboard the OU8003 flight will never forget. Croatia Airlines’s Airbus flying the brilliant Croatian national football team home.

A. Grubelić

načičkan ljudima koji su ih željeli vidjeti, taknuti, čestitati im, zapjevati s njima te im ponajprije zahvaliti na mjesec dana iz snova, na igri i na ponašanju koji su naciju učinili ponosnom. A što se u Rusiji zapravo dogodilo?! U debelim statističkim knjigama stajat će samo rezultati. Reprezentacija Hrvatske bila je u skupini s Nigerijom, Argentinom i Islandom. Prije turnira očekivanja su se uglavnom svodila na prolazak skupine i ulazak u eliminacijsku fazu, a onda što bude. No momci na čelu s izbornikom, tim mirnim čovjekom Zlatkom Dalićem, mislili su drugačije. Mala zemlja, veliki snovi slogan je s kojim su otputovali u Rusiju. I mala je zemlja svoje snove dosegnula i pretvorila ih u stvarnost. U skupini je najprije pala Nigerija. Uslijedio je epski sraz s Argentinom predvođenom velikim Leom Messijem i fantastična igra hrvatske reprezentacije vođene neuništivim virtuozom Lukom Modrićem. Hrvatska je pobijedila s 3:0. Zadnja utakmica u skupini donijela je ogled s Islandom i novu pobjedu. Apetiti su porasli, ali sanjati se još uvijek nije usudio nitko osim Vatrenih. Eliminacijski dio natjecanja donio je najprije okršaj s

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A. Grubelić A. Grubelić

A. Grubelić

Hrvatski uspjeh u Rusiji filmska je priča o nevjerojatnom duhu i timskom radu. Croatia’s success in Russia is a movie-like story about an indestructible spirit and teamwork.

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se jedan od ponajboljih igrača Francuske, Paul Pogba. Finale održano 15. srpnja na moskovskome stadionu Lužnjiki ostat će zauvijek upisano u kolektivnu memoriju hrvatskog puka, baš kao i 16. srpnja, doček srebrnih reprezentativaca. Na prepunom Trgu bana Jelačića svi nogometni reprezntativci i stručni stožer pjevali su zajedno s okupljenim sretnim, ali posve mirnim mnoštvom, s više od pola milijuna ljudi. Luka Modrić pritom je ispunio i veliku želju Petra Brckovića, 14-godišnjeg dječaka s Downovim sindromom koji ga je tako silno želio upoznati, pa ga je Luka uzeo na pozornicu da zajedno zapjevaju. Jer takvi su Vatreni. Zbog njih je Hrvatska disala kao jedan, zbog njih su svjetski mediji o Hrvatskoj pisali hvalospjeve čudeći se u kakve su nogometaše izrasli momci iz te male zemlje koji su loptu kao djeca naganjali za Domovinskog rata. Zbog njih se čini da snovi nisu rezervirani samo za velike.

Nije to promaknulo ni svjetskim medijima, pa tako novinar britanskoga The Independenta, Jack Pitt-Brooke, donosi priču o Hrvatskoj pod naslovom Što možemo naučiti od Hrvatske, male zemlje s velikim snovima? - Hrvatska je pokazala da ne morate biti nogometni div da biste ostvarili čudesan rezultat na SP-u. Kao što povijest nogometa vječno pamti Mađarsku 1954. i Nizozemsku 1974., čudesne reprezentacije koje su izgubile u finalima, tako će pamtiti i ovu Hrvatsku. Sve male zemlje trebale bi se nadahnuti Hrvatskom i slijediti svoje snove, baš kao što su to u Rusiji učinili Hrvati - zaključuje Pitt-Brooke. Hrvatski uspjeh u Rusiji fascinantna je, gotovo filmska priča o jedinstvu, timskom radu, nevjerojatnom duhu, predanosti i odlučnosti. Zbog Vatrenih svijet je u jednome trenutku bio zaodjenut u crveno-bijele kvadratiće. Zbog Vatrenih toga 16. srpnja i zrakoplov Croatia Airli nesa bio je ispunjen ponosom.

appeared at the door, boundless enthusiasm erupted. Croatia has never seen such a welcome! It took the open-top bus carrying the football vice champions of the world over five hours to get from the airport to the centre of Zagreb, a ride that on a typical day doesn’t take longer than half an hour! The road and pavement were filled to overflowing with people who wanted to see them, touch them, congratulate them, sing with them and thank them for a dream month, for their playing, and their conduct that made Croatia proud. So what actually happened in Russia?! The thick books of statistics will contain only the results. The Croatian national football team was in a group with Nigeria, Argentina and Iceland. Before the tournament, expectations amounted largely to passing the group and entering the knockout stage, and then whatever happens, happens. But the guys headed by their coach, this calm man Zlatko Dalić, thought differently. A little country with big dreams was the slogan with which they travelled to Russia. And this little country has realised its dreams and turned them into reality.

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ometime around 3 pm on 16th July 2018, the whole of Croatia was eagerly awaiting Croatia Airlines’s airplane to appear in the blue sky above Croatia carrying a most precious cargo! The whole country was waiting for the OU8003 flight, flying the Croatian national football team home from Russia, to a place where a record crowd of fans had been waiting for them since early dawn. And then, the airplane accompanied by two MIGs of the Croatian Air Force flew over Zagreb’s main square, the Ban Jelačić Square! More than 500,000 people were delighted to welcome the guys who lost in the finals to the French team. But they’ve won the hearts of the whole world! The flight above Ban Jelačić Square was just the beginning of a magnificent, indescribably big, beautiful and emotional welcome of the Croatian national football team in the capital of Croatia. As soon as Croatia Airlines’s Airbus 319 − which had Bravo,Vatreni! written on it, and rightly so − touched down at the Franjo Tuđman Airport in Zagreb, and the guys, headed by the team’s captain Luka Modrić and their coach Zlatko Dalić,

A. Grubelić

Nigeria was the first in the group that they beat. This was followed by a fantastic game played by the Croatian national football team captained by the indestructible virtuoso Luka Modrić in an epic match against Argentina captained by the great Leo Messi. Croatia won 3:0. The last match in the group was against Iceland and a new win. This whetted Croatia’s appetite, although no one dared to dream big yet, except the Vatreni (the Fiery Ones). In the knockout stage of the tournament, first in line was a match against Denmark. Neither team came out as the winner after the 90-minute match, not even after extra time. But then, during the penalty shootout, a hero was born − Danijel Subašić!

The Croatian goalkeeper defended three penalties, and took Croatia to the quarterfinals, where the Vatreni were to play against the host, Russia! What drama again! Goal after goal scored, extra time, a 2:2 tie, and a penalty shootout again! And then Subašić again! And Ivan Rakitić, who scored the last, decisive goal cold-bloodedly during penalty shootout, just as in the previous match! With each victory, Croatia’s checkered football madness was gathering more and more momentum. Whoever had the means and the opportunity was on his way from Croatia to Russia. In the semi-finals, it was time to face the new, young and zestful national football team of England. The English media already saw their national team in the finals. But Croatia’s Vatreni proved them wrong. This time, there was no penalty shootout. This time, the Vatreni did what needed to be done already during extra time. Ivan Perišić and Mario Mandžukić and then the finals! And in the finals, a fight against the great France. Perhaps thanks to an easier way to the finals, thanks to having gained more strength and freshness, France was ultimately luckier, more skilled and more successful. However, much will be remembered, and not

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Barcelona: svaki četvrtak i nedjelja do 13.1.2019. / every Thursday and Sunday until 13JAN2019 Lisabon/Lisbon: svaki ponedjeljak i petak do 14.1.2019. / every Monday and Friday until 14JAN2019 croatiaairlines.com

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just the mere results. We’ll remember the image of Šime Vrsaljko, this tireless defender of the Vatreni, lying spread across the Croatian flag, tired yet smiling after having defeated the English. We’ll remember the barefooted son of Domagoj Vida, little David, running around the green grass of the Moscow stadium. We’ll remember their unity, both on the field and while they’d sing with one accord a song which says It’s Not All In Money (Nije u šoldima sve in Croatian). We’ll also remember the President of the Republic of Croatia, Kolinda Grabar-Kitarović, who didn’t mind displaying her emotions regardless of whether a victory was celebrated or a defeat mourned. And we’ll remember − and this, perhaps, first and foremost − not only the best player of the competition, Luka Modrić, but also the wisdom of coach Zlatko Dalić, the fact that the right man in the right place can indeed change it all, and finally create from an unquestionably talented generation − true winners! This is why, as soon as the finals ended, one of France’s best players, Paul Pogba, approached him to shake his hand out of genuine respect. The finals held on 15th July at the Luzhniki Stadium in Moscow will forever remain etched in the collective memory of the Croatian people, as well as 16th July, the day when the vice champions were welcomed back home. At the Ban Jelačić Square filled to overflowing with people, the national team and members of professional staff sang together with the gathered crowd, happy yet peaceful, with more than half a million people. On top of it all, Luka Modrić made Petar Brcković’s dream come true, a 14-year-old boy with Down syndrome who wanted to desperately meet him, and so Luka lifted him up to the stage to sing together. Because that’s what Croatia’s Vatreni are like. Because of them, the hearts of all Croatians beat as one, because of them the media the world over showered Croatia with praise, marvelling over the kind of football players that these guys from such a small country have grown into, guys who chased the ball as children during the Homeland War. Because of them, it seems that dreams are not reserved only for the giants. The world media didn’t fail to notice this either, and so The Independent’s journalist Jack Pitt-Brooke brought a story about Croatia under the title What can we learn from Croatia, the little country with big dreams? − Croatia have shown that you do not need to be a giant of the European or South American game to succeed at a World Cup. And they have shown that, like Holland in 1974 or Hungary in 1954, there may be as much immortality for the runner-ups as for the champions. Every football country from Latin America, Africa and Asia can take heart from the Croatian example − Jack Pitt-Brooke concludes. Croatia’s success in Russia is a fascinating, almost movie-like story about unity, teamwork, indestructible spirit, dedication and determination. Because of Croatia’s Vatreni, the entire world was, at one point, enrobed in Croatia’s red-and-white checkers. Because of Croatia’s Vatreni, on 16th July Croatia Airlines’s airplane  too was filled with pride.

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Život grada CITY life

Zagreb

Izložba hrvatskog dizajna 1718 Exhibition of Croatian design 1718

Piše/By _ Marko Golub 01

U Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt od 25. listopada do 25. studenoga održava se deseta bijenalna Izložba hrvatskog dizajna s radovima profesionalnih autora. Izložba obuhvaća najbolje dizajnerske radove nastale tijekom 2017. i 2018. godine koji predstavljaju različite načine na koje dizajn kao praksa utječe na današnje društvo − od svakodnevnih upotrebnih predmeta, namještaja, modnih, odjevnih i drugih proizvoda preko projekata u funkciji signalizacije i označavanja u javnim prostorima, web stranica i drugih oblika interakcije kojima se promiču hrvatski proizvodi, kultura i vrijedni društveni projekti, plakata i publikacija koji oglašavaju ili promiču domaće proizvode, kulturu, kazališne predstave, likovne izložbe, do konceptualnih projekata koji promišljaju na koje načine dizajn u budućnosti može poboljšati okružje u kojemu živimo. Gotovo trećina izložbe posvećena je radovima studenata hrvatskih dizajnerskih škola predstavljenih u Izložbenome salonu Izidor Kršnjavi − ISO. The 10th biennial Exhibition of Croatian Design displaying works by professional designers is held at the Museum of Arts and Crafts between 25th October and 25th

November. The exhibition includes the best works of design created during 2017 and 2018 representing the different ways in which design as a practice affects today’s society − from everyday items, furniture, fashion, clothing and other products, through projects in the function of signalling and labelling in public space, websites and other forms of interaction promoting Croatian products, culture and valuable social projects, posters and publications that market or promote domestic products, culture, theatre performances, art exhibitions, to conceptual projects that look at ways in which future design can improve the environment in which we live. Almost one third of the exhibition is dedicated to works designed by students attending Croatian design schools and presented at the Izidor Kršnjavi − ISO Exhibition Salon.

01 Gavella − Kralj Rikard III. / Gavella Theatre − Richard III dizajn / design: Vanja Cuculić lettering: Leo Kirinčić 02 Žen: sunčani ljudi / Žen: Sunny People dizajn i ilustracija / design and illustration: Ana Kovačić 03 Kolekcija / Collection PIQUENTUM St.Vital 12/13/14, Studio Sonda: Jelena Fiškuš, Sean Poropat 03

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Discover the unforgettable Dubrovnik Riviera Visit the new gem, nested in a secluded bay, bathed in a crystal clear waters of the Adriatic. Plan your dream vacation at the spectacular South of Croatia in breathtaking venues. Further information at: +385 (0)20 601 500, sales@sheratondubrovnikriviera.com or visit www. sheratondubrovnikriviera.com ÂŠ2016 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Sheraton and its logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

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Život grada CITY life Zagreb

Moderna galerija Zagreb / Zagreb Modern Gallery

Vlaho Bukovac & Alexandre Cabanel

Piše/By _ Jasminka Poklečki Stošić

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The Art Pavilion in Zagreb is the oldest art gallery in Southeast Europe that has been mounting exhibitions for 120 years. The gallery was founded in 1898, so in 2018 it’s celebrating its 120th anniversary. The initiator of the idea to found the Art Pavilion was the famous Croatian painter Vlaho Bukovac. For this very reason, the Art Pavilion is celebrating its 120th anniversary with a big exhibition in honour of Vlaho Bukovac and Alexandre Cabanel, an important French painter who taught Bukovac painting at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris. With this exhibition, the Art Pavilion aims to present Vlaho Bukovac in a context that his works have never before been presented in. More specifically, alongside Bukovac’s works, works painted by his Parisian professor Alexandre Cabanel will also be exhibited. It is worth pointing out that, so far, Alexandre Cabanel’s works have never been exhibited in either Croatia or neighbouring countries, making Cabanel’s paintings a real treat for art lovers who head to the Art Pavilion to see the exhibition. The Vlaho Bukovac and Alexandre Cabanel − A Historical Encounter of Pupil and Teacher exhibition opens on 3rd October 2018 and stays open until 6th January 2019.

Hrvatski povijesni muzej, Zagreb / Croatian History Museum, Zagreb

Umjetnički paviljon u Zagrebu najstarija je likovna institucija u jugoistočnoj Europi koja izložbe priređuje već 120 godina. Galerija je osnovana 1898. godine tako da ove, 2018. godine, slavi svojih 120 godina postojanja i djelovanja. Inicijator osnutka Umjetničkog paviljona bio je slavni hrvatski slikar Vlaho Bukovac. Upravo iz tog razloga Umjetnički paviljon 120 godina slavi velikom izložbom posvećenom Vlahi Bukovcu i Alexandreu Cabanelu, važnom francuskom slikaru kod kojega je Bukovac studirao slikarstvo na École des Beaux-Arts u Parizu. Umjetnički paviljon želi Vlahu Bukovca predstaviti u kontekstu u kakvome njegova djela još nikada do sada nisu bila predstavljena. Naime, ovom izložbom uz Bukovčeva će djela biti izložena i djela njegova pariškog profesora Alexandrea Cabanela. Valja istaknuti kako do ove izložbe djela Alexandrea Cabanela nisu bila izlagana u Hrvatskoj i u susjednim zemljama, tako da će Cabanelove slike biti pravo otkriće ljubiteljima likovne umjetnosti koji se zapute na izložbu u Umjetnički paviljon. Izložba Vlaho Bukovac i Alexandre Cabanel − povijesni susret učenika i učitelja publici će biti dostupna od 3. 10. 2018. do 6. 1. 2019.

privatno vlasništvo / privately owned

Fotografije/Photos _ Goran Vranić

01 Mala balerina, 1918. Little Ballerina, 1918 ulje na kartonu / oil on cardboard 02 Putifarova žena, 1886. Potiphar’s Wife, 1886 ulje na platnu / oil on canvas 03 Hrvatski preporod / Slava njima, 1895. Croatian National Revival / Glory Be To Them, 1895 ulje na platnu / oil on canvas

Fly to Dubrovnik

t +385 20 773 100 f +385 20 773 322 e info@airport-dubrovnik.hr w www.airport-dubrovnik.hr CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

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Dubrovnik

D. Lenert

Good Food Festival

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K. Živković

01 Vrhunac Good Food Festivala poznata je Dubrovačka trpeza na Stradunu The highlight of the Good Food Festival is the famous Dubrovnik Table that stretches along Stradun 02-03 Tradicionalna ali i moderna jela oduševit će svakog posjetitelja Traditional as well as modern dishes will delight every visitor

D. Lenert

Once again, the Dubrovnik Tourist Board is organising the Good Food Festival − a gastronomic treat for all lovers of good food, which is taking place between 18th and 21st October 2018, featuring many events. This year’s fifth edition of the festival

brings a great variety of delicious food and top quality wines. Several workshops are organised during the festival, such as a workshop on preparing Dubrovnik sweets and traditional Croatian dishes, as well as workshops on food styling and food photography. The central event of the festival is the traditional Dinner with a Famous Chef, which features a gourmet programme perfectly complemented with a music programme. This year’s rich Good Food Festival programme also includes interesting presentations and workshops, a Dalmatian Brunch, as well as the traditional Healthy Food Fair at Pile. The highlight of the Good Food Festival is the famous Dubrovnik Table that stretches along the entire length of the street of Stradun, where many Dubrovnik-based hotels and restaurants, pastry chefs and top kitchens will be presenting their knowledge and skills. We believe that this year’s Good Food Festival will bring together many lovers of original, traditional, but also modern dishes, and that the festival will delight every visitor, just as it has been the case with the previous four editions of the festival.

K. Živković

Turistička zajednica grada Dubrovnika i ove godine organizira Good Food Festival − gastronomsku poslasticu za sve ljubitelje dobre hrane koja će se odvijati od 18. do 21. listopada 2018. i obuhvaćati brojne događaje. Ovogodišnje, peto izdanje festivala sadrži raznoliku ponudu ukusne hrane i najboljih vina. Tijekom trajanja festivala organizirane su razne radionice, kao što je radionica pripremanja dubrovačkih slastica te jela tradicionalne hrvatske kuhinje, ali i radionica food stylinga i fotografije hrane. Središnji događaj festivala za sve posjetitelje bit će Večera sa celebrity chefom, gurmanski užitak koji se savršeno isprepleće s glazbenom pratnjom. Ovogodišnji Good Food Festival u svojem bogatom programu nudi zanimljive prezentacije, radionice i predavanja, dalmatinski brunch i tradicionalni Sajam zdrave hrane na Pilama. Vrhunac Good Food Festivala poznata je Dubrovačka trpeza duž cijelog Straduna, na kojoj će se predstaviti brojni dubrovački hoteli i restorani, slastičari i ugostitelji koji će pokazati svoje znanje i umijeće. Vjerujemo da će ovogodišnji Good Food Festival okupiti brojne zaljubljenike u originalna, tradicionalna ali i moderna jela te oduševiti svakog posjetitelja, baš kao što je to bio slučaj s prethodna četiri.

Turistička zajednica grada Dubrovnika / City of Dubrovnik Tourist Board

Život grada CITY life

The imperial city

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Život grada CITY life Rovinj

Rekreativni biciklistički doživljaj Weekend Bike & Gourmet Tour, koji se održava u jesen i u proljeće, nudi višestruki užitak. Osim u vožnji biciklom možete uživati i u kušanju istarskih delicija, vina i maslinovih ulja. Weekend Bike & Gourmet Tour održava se 6. i 7. listopada, a namijenjen je svim rekreativnim biciklistima bez obzira na to dolaze li na MTB biciklima, treking ili e-biciklima. Tijekom trajanja utrke prati ih profesionalni vodič. Čak i ako nemate ovakve bicikle, na utrci se nudi i mogućnost najma električnih bicikala uz nadoplatu. U startninu su uključeni obroci i piće na gourmet odmorištima predviđeni programom (Istrian brunch i Istrian picnic), vožnja uz pratitelje programa i vodstvo profesionalnog vodiča, prateće vozilo, biciklistička karta i, naravno, prigodan poklon. Organizatori su predvidjeli dva itinerara: Sport, duljine 111 km, namijenjen je za izdržljivije, a Hobby, dug 82 km, osmišljen je za one s nešto manje kondicije. Svaki itinerar sastoji se od dviju staza. Uz stazu Mare može se guštati u morskim delicijama, a na stazi Monti sudionike očekuju gastronomske poslastice istarske unutrašnjosti. Start i cilj u oba su slučaja pred hotelom Eden, a staza se većim dijelom vozi makadamom u okolici Rovinja i Bala.

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The recreational cycling experience of the Weekend Bike & Gourmet Tour, which is held in the autumn and spring, brings you pleasure in many different ways. In addition to cycling, you can also enjoy sampling Istrian delicacies, wines and olive oils. The Weekend Bike & Gourmet Tour is held on 6th and 7th October, and is intended for all recreational cyclists regardless of whether you ride mountain, trekking or e-bikes, as during the tour, you are accompanied by a professional guide. Even if you don’t have one of these bikes, you can still have fun by renting an electric bicycle at an extra charge. The entry fee includes meals and drinks at gourmet break points (Istrian Brunch and Istrian Picnic), a tour programme guide and a professional guide, a support vehicle, a cycling map and, of course, a gift. Two itineraries have been planned: the 111-km-long Sport Route intended for tough cyclists, and the 82-km-long Hobby Route intended for the less fit. Each route consists of two tracks. Along the Mare track you’ll get to savour seafood delicacies, while along the Monti track you’ll get to relish the culinary delicacies of the Istrian inland. In either case, the start and the finishing line are in front of Eden Hotel, and the routes are cycled, for the most part, on a macadam road in the vicinity of Rovinj and Bale. For more information, please visit https://www.maistra.com/offer/weekend-bikegourmet-tour.

TZ Rovinj / Rovinj Tourist Board

Weekend Bike & Gourmet Tour

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Zagreb

Šećer dolazi na kraju... godine! The year’s icing on the cake

Ne smijete propustiti: Trg bana Josipa Jelačića − veliki glavni trg obasjan je brojnim svjetlima, a tu su i koncerti i glazba na velikoj pozornici,

štandovi s hranom i program za djecu. Ovdje je i veliko božićno drvce, a Manduševac je preuređen u adventski vijenac. Fuliranje − inovativno i moderno kulturno i gastronomsko događanje tijekom Adventa s prepoznatljivim dizajnom i opuštenom atmosferom. Posebno su zanimljiva razna atraktivna rješenja i dodaci kako biste imali jedinstvene i otkačene fotografije za uspomenu. Europski trg − pješačka zona u samome srcu grada nudi slikovita adventska događanja: sajam suvenira i božićnih dekoracija, izbor hrane i pića te glazbene sadržaje navečer. Lokacija stvorena za sve željne dobre glazbe i zabave. Park Zrinjevac − jedno od najljepših mjesta u Zagrebu. Svjetla obasjavaju drvorede, a stari muzički paviljon izgleda kao blistava palača. Umjetnički štandovi, velik izbor tradicionalnih božićnih darova, prigodne božićne hrane i napitaka u ukrašenim drvenim kolibicama. Ovo je idealno mjesto za kušanje zagrebačkih zimskih specijaliteta uključujući pečene štrukle i zapečenu toplu savijaču sa

J. Duval

Nekoć davno, među najbolje čuvanim tajnama o Hrvatskoj bila je ona da njezina prijestolnica Zagreb nudi jedan od najboljih adventskih programa. Prije tri godine ta je tajna otkrivena kada je u prosincu Advent u Zagrebu proglašen najboljim u Europi, a zatim je tu titulu obranio još dva

puta zaredom, postavši jedino odredište kojemu je to uspjelo. Ove se godine Zagreb više ne može natjecati za tu titulu, ali to svakako ne znači da će nedostajati zanimljivih programa, raznolike ponude i pravoga zimskog ugođaja. Sada već devetu godinu, od 1. prosinca do 6. siječnja, Advent u Zagrebu nudi program pun događanja, koncerata, odlične hrane i ponekih iznenađenja. Zamislite treperenje božićnih lampica, svjetiljke, kočije, šarenilo, blagdansku hranu i pića, koncerte, zborove i još mnogo toga. Dan otvaranja, 1. prosinca, službeno će obilježiti program i prvi klizači u Ledenom parku te tradicionalno paljenje lampica na Zrinjevcu u večernjim satima. Advent u Zagrebu jedna je od najvažnijih turističko-kulturnih manifestacija za zagrebački i hrvatski turizam, koja bogatim programom želi stvoriti što ljepši predblagdanski ugođaj, a očekuje se da će kao i lanjskih godina pridonijeti rastu turističkoga prometa u Zagrebu.

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TZ grada Zagreba / Zagreb Tourist Board

Život grada CITY life

ćete odnijeti kući. Trgovine u gradu drže većinu međunarodnih brendova, obično povoljno.

Okolica − zagrebačka okolica lijepo je i zanimljivo područje bogato povijesnim spomenicima, s velikim mogućnostima za rekreaciju i bogatom gastronomskom ponudom. Omiljeno izletište Zagrepčana i njihovih gostiju je Samobor, poznat zbog svoje ljepote, vinskih cesta Plešivičkoga gorja, ali i zbog ukusnoga kolača − samoborskih kremšnita. Gostima je po mnogočemu zanimljivo područje sjeverozapadnog dijela zemlje,

svježim sirom. U ponudi su i kuhano vino, vruća čokolada i posebni božićni kolačići. Glazba uživo u programu je svake večeri, a vikendom i ujutro. Ledeni park na Tomislavovu trgu − božićna bajka čeka vas u jednom od najljepših zagrebačkih parkova: klizalište, birana hrana i pića te glazbeni sadržaji. Brojne kulturne i zabavne manifestacije za djecu i odrasle Ledeni park čine fantastičnim odabirom za sve željne pravoga zimskog ugođaja. Gornji grad − inače poznat kao nezaobilazno odredište brojnih zagrebačkih posjetitelja tijekom cijele godine, za vrijeme Adventa odiše pravim blagdanskim duhom. Razne lokacije s kojih se Zagreb vidi kao na dlanu prigodno su uređene šarmantnim ukrasima, a ukusne delicije mame iz svakog kutka. Miris cimeta, kuhanih napitaka, ali i originalna ponuda

poklona jamstvo su da će svatko pronaći nešto za sebe. Stoga, uputite se na Gornji grad i posjetite prelijepe adventske lokacije koje odišu romantikom, nostalgijom te pravim duhom Božića. Posebne ture − mnogo je načina za otkrivanje Adventa u Zagrebu inovativnim turama. Za one koji žele sve otkriti sami postoji aplikacija Zagreb Be There − Advent Path. Uz pomoć pametnih telefona sada možete krenuti u otkrivanje najzanimljivijih adventskih događanja u Zagrebu. Dok pratite ovaj put, moći ćete izvući najviše iz svojeg posjeta Zagrebu, a ako se prijavite na svim lokacija koristeći hashtag #BeThereZagreb, čekaju vas posebne nagrade!

J. Duval

I. Pavlović

S. Kaštelan

Smještaj − mnogi hoteli nude posebne adventske aranžmane koji su povoljniji u odnosu na uobičajene hotelske cijene. Tu su i brojni privatni iznajmljivači te hosteli, tako da je ponuda osigurana za svačiji džep!

Hrvatskoga zagorja, s pitomim brežuljcima, romantičnim dvorcima i termalnim izvorima… No zimi jedno mjesto dolazi do posebnog izražaja, a to je Čazma, gdje obitelj Salaj nastavlja sjajnu tradiciju ukrašavanja posebne kuće i prostranoga dvorišta, tako da je svaki centimetar ukrašen treperećim božićnim lampicama. Izvanredne lanterne u bojama te lampice svih oblika i veličina mijenjaju čitav okoliš i nezaobilazno su mjesto svih onih željnih noćnih šetnji idiličnim stazama, okupanih raskošnim svjetlom božićnih lampica.

Ostalo:

Atraktivna tijekom cijele godine, hrvatska prijestolnica božićnu priču priča na šarmantan i jedinstven način. Posjetite Zagreb ove zime i zapitat ćete se zašto se ranije toga niste sjetili! Više informacija: www.adventzagreb.com

Kupnja − posjetite li Zagreb prije Božića, to je dobro mjesto da kupite darove koje

Not so long ago, one of the best kept secrets about Croatia was that its capital,

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Programmes you must see and enjoy:

J. Duval

Ban Josip Jelačić Square − Zagreb’s main square is illuminated with countless Christmas lights, with concerts held and music played on a grand stage, with food stalls and a children’s programme. A large Christmas tree decorates the square, while an Advent wreath decorates the Manduševac fountain, with live music performances held both during the week and on weekends.

Zagreb, boasts one of the best Advent and Christmas market programmes. Three years ago, this secret was discovered when, in December, the Advent in Zagreb was proclaimed the best Christmas Market in Europe. Zagreb then defended this title two more times in a row, making it the only destination which succeeded in achieving this. This year, Zagreb can no longer compete for this title, but that doesn’t mean that the Advent in Zagreb will be lacking in interesting events, a variety of things on offer to see, partake in and enjoy, and a real winter atmosphere. For the ninth year in a row, from 1st December to 6th January, the Advent in Zagreb is offering a programme abounding in events, con-

certs, excellent food and a few surprises. Imagine the flickering of Christmas lights, lamps, carriages, colourful Christmas decorations, Christmas foods and drinks, concerts, choirs and much more. The Advent in Zagreb officially opens on 1st December with an ice skating programme at the Ice Park, and the traditional lighting up of Christmas lights in Zrinjevac Park in the evening. The Advent in Zagreb is one of the leading tourist and cultural events for the tourism of both Zagreb and Croatia, looking to create as beautiful a festive atmosphere as possible with its rich programme, and is again expected to contribute to the growth of tourist traffic in Zagreb as it did in the last few years.

Fooling Around − This is an innovative and hip, cultural and culinary programme during the Advent in Zagreb with a highly distinctive design bringing a relaxed atmosphere. Different alluring solutions and accessories are spread across the location so that you can take unique and quirky photos to take home with you. European Square − This is a pedestrian zone in the heart of the city offering picturesque Christmas market events: souvenir and Christmas decoration stalls, food and drink stalls, and music in the evening. This is a location perfect for anyone looking to enjoy good music and good entertainment. Zrinjevac Park − This is one of the most beautiful Christmas Market locations in Zagreb. Christmas lights illuminate the trees, and the old band pavilion is made to look like a sparkling palace. With many arts and crafts stalls, a large selection of traditional Christmas gifts, Christmas foods and drinks in decorated wooden cottages, this is an ideal place to sample Zagreb’s winter specialities, including baked štrukli (cheese filled dough) and Zagreb’s fresh cheese filled strudel. Mulled wine, hot chocolate and special Christmas cookies are also on offer. Live music is played every evening, and on weekends in the morning too.

Boška i Krešo

Ice Park at King Tomislav Square − A Christmas fairy tale awaits you in one of the most beautiful parks of Zagreb: an ice rink, select food and drink stalls, and lots of music. The cultural and entertainment programme for both children and adults make the Ice Park a fantastic choice for those who’re looking to experience a true winter ambiance.

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Upper Town − Frequented by numerous visitors as an unavoidable spot through-

D. Rostuhar

out the year, during the festive season it exudes an air of the holiday spirit. Different locations, from which beautiful views of Zagreb stretch, are decorated with charming Christmas decorations, while mouthwatering delicacies allure at every corner. The scent of cinnamon, mulled wine and drinks, and an offer of original gifts is a guarantee that there’s something for everyone. So, make sure you head to the Upper Town to stroll along stunning Advent locations exuding an air of romance, nostalgia and the true spirit of Christmas. Special tours − There are many ways to discover Advent in Zagreb, and one is by taking a special tour. Those who’re into discovering things on their own should download the Zagreb Be There − Advent Path application to their smart phones and start discovering the most interesting Advent events in Zagreb. As you follow this tour route, you’ll get the most out of your visit to Zagreb, and to enter a prize draw all you have to do is register on most locations using the hashtag #BeThereZagreb!

Additional information: Shopping − Zagreb before Christmas is a good place to shop for gifts to take home. The shops in the city sell most international brands, usually at a good price. Accommodation − Many hotels offer special Advent package deals at special rates that are cheaper than their standard rates. Zagreb also boasts numerous privately rented apartments and hostels, so accommodation is available to suit every pocket! Surroundings − Zagreb’s beautiful and interesting surroundings are rich in historical monuments, offering great many ways for recreation and different culinary experiences. Samobor is a perfect town to take an excursion to, loved by both the residents of Zagreb and their guests, and famous for its beauty, the wine roads of the Plešivica Hils, as well as its tasty cake − the cream cake of Samo-

bor called kremšnita. The north-western region of Croatia, Croatian Zagorje, with its gentle hills, romantic castles and thermal springs and spas is also worth visiting. In winter, however, one place is particularly attractive. Namely Čazma, where the Salaj family has been upholding a wonderful tradition of decorating a special house and a spacious yard with Christmas decorations and twinkling Christmas lights. Magnificent colourful lanterns and Christmas lights of all shapes and sizes transform the whole environment, making the Salaj family farm a must-see attraction for all those who’re into spending the evening strolling down idyllic paths bathed in magical Christmas lights. Although attractive throughout the year, the Croatian capital tells a charming and special Christmas story. Visit Zagreb this winter and you’ll wonder why you haven’t thought of visiting it before! For more information, please visit www.adventzagreb.com.

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Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings 14. Internacionalni festival eksperimentalnog filma i videa 14th International Experimental Film and Video Festival

27. - 30. 9., Zagreb Na festivalu koji prati najnoviju produkciju avangardnoga i eksperimentalnog filma možete pogledati zanimljive filmove koje će vam predstaviti autori u zagrebačkom Studentskom centru./ This is a festival that screens the latest production of avant-garde and experimental films presented by their authors at the Student Centre in Zagreb. www.25fps.hr Varaždin i okolica Varaždin and surroundings 48. Varaždinske barokne večeri 48th Varaždin Baroque Evenings

21. 9. - 3. 10., Varaždin Ovaj specijalizirani festival rane glazbe jedan je od najeminentnijih festivala te vrste u svijetu,

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a ove je godine zemlja partner festivala Japan./This specialised early music festival is one of the most eminent festivals of this kind in the world, partnered this year by Japan. https://vbv.hr

WOW, João Luís Carrilho da Graça.../This is an international architecture symposium organised by the Oris magazine and the Oris House of Architecture in Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall, at which presentations are given by

Dani Orisa Days of Oris

13. - 14. 10., Zagreb Riječ je o međunarodnom arhitektonskom simpoziju koji organiziraju časopis Oris i Oris Kuća arhitekture u KD Vatroslav Lisinski. Poslušajte izlaganja uglednih domaćih i inozemnih arhitekata kao što su Balkrishna Doshi, Patrik Schumacher, NL Architects, Deyan Sudjic, Davor Mateković, Rok Žnidaršič, Ira Payer, Beals Lyon Arquitectos, Atelier BOW-

Gospić i okolica Gospić and surroundings Jesen u Lici Autumn in Lika

5. - 7. 10., Gospić Izložba se i ove godine odvija u sportskoj dvorani na Trgu Stjepana Radića, obično prvoga vikenda u listopadu. Predstavljaju se proizvodi malih poljoprivrednih gospodarstava i održavaju prezentacije tradicijskoga

Listopad October Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings

between Mozart and Metallica. www.eventim.hr

prominent Croatian and foreign architects, such as Balkrishna Doshi, Patrik Schumacher, NL Architects, Deyan Sudjic, Davor Mateković, Rok Žnidaršič, Ira Payer, Beals Lyon Arquitectos, Atelier BOW-WOW, João Luís Carrilho da Graça, etc. http://oris.hr/hr/dani-orisa/

TZ grada Gospića / Gospić Tourist Board

Rujan September

Koncert Davida Garretta David Garrett concert

13. 10., Zagreb U sklopu turneje Explosive u zagrebačkoj Areni nastupa njemačko-američki violinist David Garrett, koji je vještinom i talentom osvojio koncertnu publiku diljem svijeta. Opisuju ga kao izvođača klasične glazbe koji zamagljuje granice između Mozarta i Metallice./ The German-American violinist David Garrett, who has won over concert audiences the world over with his talent and skill, is performing in Zagreb’s Arena as part of the Explosive Tour. He is described as a classical music artist who blurs the boundaries

načina izrade proizvoda poput bukara i tamburica, pletenja košara, predenja vune itd./This year’s fair is again set up in the sports hall at the Stjepan Radić Square in Gospić during the first weekend in October. The fair presents products produced by small family farms, and traditional ways of manufacturing items such as ewers and tambourines, basket weaving, wool spinning, etc. gospic.hr * Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara. * Allow for possible changes after this issue has gone to press.

Jesen u Hrvatskoj! Autumn in Croatia!

Karte u jednom smjeru unutar Hrvatske veÄ&#x2021; od 220 kn! Poletite iz Zagreba u Split, Dubrovnik, Pulu ili Zadar, kao i obratno, po cijeni karte u jednom smjeru veÄ&#x2021; od 220 kn. TZGZ/J.Duval

One way tickets inside Croatia starting from 220 kn! Fly one way between Zagreb and Split, Dubrovnik, Pula or Zadar, at the price starting from 220 kn.

072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555 croatiaairlines.com

Moja aviokompanija. My airline. CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

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Zadar i okolica Zadar and surroundings

Studeni November

Biograd Boat Show

Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings

Pula i okolica Pula and surroundings 9. Festival terana i tartufa 9th Teran and Truffle Festival

20. 10., Motovun Festival okuplja istarske vinare proizvođače terana, stare istarske sorte koja je prije stotinjak godina dominirala istarskim poluotokom. Gastronomski doživljaj upotpunjen je jelima od tartufa koja se najbolje sljubljuju s teranom./ The festival gathers Istrian teran winemakers, an old Istrian variety that dominated the Istrian peninsula some hundred years ago. The gastronomic experience is complemented with truffle dishes that are paired best with teran. www.istra.hr

Zagreb Film Festival

10. - 18. 11., Zagreb Festival će se održati na uobičajenim gradskim lokacijama − u kinu Europa, kinu Tuškanac, MSU-u. Ove nam godine festival donosi više od stotinu projekcija i filmova te čak petnaestak programa. Od samog je početka programski usmjeren predstavljanju i promidžbi debitantskih filmova i novih autora./The festival is taking place at usual city locations − the Europa Cinema, the Tuškanac Cinema, the Museum of Contemporary Art. This year’s festival brings more than a hundred screenings and movies, as well as some fifteen programmes. Since its very inception, the festival’s main aim is to present and promote debut films and new authors. www.zagrebfilmfestival.com

Infogamer

21. - 25. 11., Zagreb Posjetite šesto izdanje jednoga od najvećih gaming sajmova i festivala u Europi koji će se održati na Zagrebačkom velesajmu. Najveće, najsadržajnije i najatraktivnije izdanje sajma dosad fokusirat će se na predstavljanje najnovijih igara i hardvera, developera, VR hardvera itd./This is the sixth edition of one of the biggest gaming fairs and festivals in Europe to be held at the Zagreb Fair. The biggest, most eventful and most attractive edition of the fair so far is focusing on presenting the latest games and hardware, developers, VR hardware, etc. www.zv.hr

41. Interliber 41st Interliber

13. - 18. 11., Zagreb Na Zagrebačkom velesajmu posjetite vodeći sajam knjiga na kojemu izlagači predstavljaju svoja najnovija izdanja. Možete sudjelovati u panel raspravama poznatih pisaca i zanimljivim radionicama./This is a leading book fair organised at the Zagreb Fair, at which exhibitors present their

TZ Požeško-slavonske županije / county Tourist Board

18. - 21. 10., Biograd Biogradski jesenski nautički sajam najveća je izložba plovila ne samo u Hrvatskoj nego i u srednjoj Europi. Postao je okupljalište predstavnika i ljubitelja hrvatske nautičke industrije./The Biograd Boat Show is the biggest exhibition of boats not only in Croatia, but also in Central Europe, having become the gathering place for representatives and lovers of the Croatian shipbuilding industry. www.bbs.com.hr

latest publications, with panel discussions attended by famous writers and interesting workshops held. www.zv.hr

Osijek i okolica Osijek and surroundings Martinje u Kutjevu The Feast of St. Martin in Kutjevo

11. 11., Kutjevo U Kutjevu se prisjećaju davnoga susreta Marije Terezije i baruna Trenka. U sklopu toga događaja slavi se i blagdan sv. Martina, koji svojim programom krštenja mošta, glazbom, kapljicom i bogatom tradicionalnom gastronomskom ponudom Slavonije

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privlači sve više posjetitelja./ Kutjevo is remembering a longgone encounter between Maria Theresa and Baron Trenk. As part of this event, the Feast of St. Martin is also celebrated, whose programme − including the christening of new wine, music, and a rich offer of traditional Slavonian foods and drinks − has been attracting an increasing number of visitors. www.kutjevo.hr Rijeka i okolica Rijeka and surroundings 20. Kup Lošinja − regata Optimista 20th Lošinj Cup − The Optimists Regatta

2. - 4. 11., Mali Lošinj Regatno polje smješteno je ispred uvale Čikat, a očekuje se mnoštvo natjecatelja iz Slovenije, Mađarske, Bugarske, Slovačke, Italije i Hrvatske./The regatta is taking place outside of Čikat Bay, and great many competitors from Slovenia, Hungary, Bulgaria, Slovakia, Italy and Croatia are expected. www.visitlosinj.hr

Prosinac December Zagreb i okolica Zagreb and surroundings Advent u Zagrebu Zagreb Advent

1. 12. 2018. - 6. 1. 2019., Zagreb U adventsko doba Zagreb vam nudi niz zanimljivih događanja i svake godine priređuje određene novosti. Odlična zabava, gastronomija i blagdanski ugođaj očekuju vas na mnogim ulicama i trgovima./During the season of Advent, Zagreb is staging a whole number of interesting events, introducing novelties year after year. Great entertainment, food and drink, and a holiday atmosphere await you on many streets and squares in Zagreb. www.adventzagreb.com

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To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoË nu obalu Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2011. godine, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊi ma i grebenima. Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniË no. NovËana jedinica − kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (790.017 stanovni ka), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Hrvatska je međunarodno priznata 15. siječnja 1992. godine, a od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica je Europske unije. This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the ea st. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2011 census, Croatia’s population was 4,284,889. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The official language is Croatian, and the offi cial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (790,017 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recogniti on on 15 January 1992. Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sje verni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine,

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treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od naj ljepπih europskih vrtova. National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Nor thern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature pro tection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contributed to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe. Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spo menicima iz svih razdoblja zbog burnih po vijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja ra zliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakral na baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinen talna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kulturnog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapo vijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spome niËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u sred njovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, tako er je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine. A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of in fluences of different cultures. Its coast is cha

racterized by the influences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monu ments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cul tural circle and is distinguished by numerous prehistoric findings of world significance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monumen ts and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental com-plexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNE SCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphra sius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Cro atia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage. Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina − ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari − hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacional nog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluautocesta Hrvatska je bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajektom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe − i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji − kraÊe od 2 sata. Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has been a hit destination in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international experts in tourism. Croatia is close not only because of its geographic position, but also because of its network of airports and the top quality services provided by Croatia Airlines, its

national carrier, as well as other airliners. Also, due to its network of highways and semi-motorways, Croatia is closer than ever. If you have decided to spend your vacation on any one of the numerous islands in Croatia, even the most distant ones, it will take less than 2 hours by ferry or hydrofoil from the mainland. Novac i naËin plaÊanja Kuna je na ziv novËane jedinice Republi ke Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp), (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje

kreditnim kar ticama (Diners, Visa, Ame rican Expres s, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima. Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kuna (kn). In circulation are bank notes in Kuna and coins in Kuna and Lipa (lp) ∑ one hundredth. Payments can be made by credit card (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard and Master card), as well as euro-checks. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs.

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalna / regular sezonska ljetna / seasonal in summer

motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage

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Osnove programa Miles & More Miles & More vodeći je europski program nagrađivanja čestih putnika i nudi članovima različite mogućnosti prikupljanja milja i korištenja nagrada te druge privlačne pogodnosti. Članovi prikupljaju statusne milje za redovne letove svih članica Star Alliancea i drugih avio prijevoznika partnera. Statusne milje određuju članski status: Basic (osnovni - plava kartica), Frequent Traveller (FTL - srebrna kartica), Senator (SEN - zlatna kartica) ili HON Circle (HON - crna kartica). Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, postiže se status Frequent Traveller, a sa 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini status Senator. Članovi koji prikupe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u

razdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stječu status HON Circle. Članovi prikupljaju nagradne milje koristeći se uslugama brojnih partnera u programu. Nagradne milje bilježe se za letove svih članica Star Alliancea i drugih prijevoznika partnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima, korištenje raznih usluga ostalih partnera i potrošnju preko cobrand kreditnih kartica Miles & More: Croatia Airlines American Express kartica - 4 kune = 1 nagradna milja − za svake 4 kune potrošene preko ove kartice, bilježi se 1 nagradna milja - 2000 milja dobrodošlice na Miles & More računu za nove korisnike - 1000 milja dobrodošlice za dodatnog člana

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- Putno osiguranje - Milje ne zastarijevaju - Dvostruke nagradne milje − za plaćanje u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i PBZ Card Travela Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditna kartica - 5 kuna = 1 nagradna milja − za svakih 5 kuna potrošenih preko ove kartice, bilježi se 1 nagradna milja. - Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda − jednostavno plaćajte svojom Diners Club karticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu. - 2 kartice − 1 račun Miles & More − koristite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom karticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na istom računu Miles & More. VISA Croatia Airlines kreditna kartica Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potrošnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potrošenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna Miles & More milja. Više informacija možete pronaći na: www.milesandmore.com

Introducing Miles & More

Prikupljanje milja na letovima Croatia Airlinesa / Collecting miles on Croatia Airlines flights

Miles & More is the leading European frequent flyer programme, offering its members numerous possibilities for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attractive privileges. Members collect status miles which determine a member’s membership status on scheduled flights operated by Star Alliance

members and other airline partners. Status miles are related to membership statuses: Basic (blue card), Frequent Traveller (FTL - silver card), Senator (SEN - gold card) and HON Circle (HON - black card). With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year, members acquire the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, acquire the HON Circle status. Members collect award miles by using the services of many partners in the programme. Miles are credited for flights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners, staying at participating hotels, using services of other non-airline partners or spending over co-branded credit cards: Croatia Airlines American Express card - 4 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 4 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile - 2000 welcome miles on Miles & More account for new basic and 1000 welcome miles for new additional card users - Travel insurance - Miles do not expire - Earn double award miles − using the card to pay at Croatia Airlines and PBZ Card Travel Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card - 5 HRK = 1 award mile − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile - Collect award miles everywhere − simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC offices in Croatia or abroad - 2 credit cards − 1 Miles & More membership account − use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account VISA Croatia Airlines credit card Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines standalone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 HRK spent via standalone credit card whereas for every 7 HRK spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

LETOVIMA

IRLINESA

MILES ON FLIGHTS

Please find detailed info at: www.milesandmore.com

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CROATIA AIRLINES NOVOSTI CROATIA AIRLINES NEWS NOVOSTI U ZIMSKOM REDU LETENJA Croatia Airlines će tijekom predstojećeg zimskog reda letenja (28. 10. 2018. − 30. 3. 2019.) prilagoditi prometovanje svojih zrakoplova u domaćemu i međunarodnom prometu potrebama svojih putnika u zimskom razdoblju. Ove smo godine u svibnju prvi put uveli redovite međunarodne letove Zagreb − Mostar i na toj ćemo liniji nastaviti letjeti i tijekom zime − četvrtkom i nedjeljom. Novost je i da ćemo tijekom zimskog reda letenja prvi put letjeti na relaciji Rijeka − München, svaki četvrtak i nedjelju. Također, nastavit ćemo letjeti u Barcelonu i Lisabon. U Barcelonu možete otputovati četvrtkom i nedjeljom, a u Lisabon ponedjeljkom i petkom do sredine siječnja. Sve informacije o našim letovima i ponudama možete pronaći na www.croatiaairlines.hr ili m.croatiaairlines.hr te na tel. +385 1 6676 555 / 072 500 505.

NEWS IN THE WINTER TIMETABLE During the upcoming winter flight timetable (28th October 2018-30th March 2019), Croatia Airlines will adjust both its domestic and international flights to the needs of its passengers during the winter period. This year in May, we introduced, for the first time, regular international flights on the Zagreb − Mostar route, which we’ll continue to operate during the winter on Thursdays and Sundays. Yet another novelty is the introduction of flights during the winter timetable on the Rijeka − Munich route, which will be operated every Thursday and Sunday. Also, we’ll continue to fly to Barcelona and Lisbon. You can fly to Barcelona on Thursdays and Sundays, and to Lisbon on Mondays and Fridays until mid-January. For all information about our flights and offers, please visit www.croatiaairlines.com or m.croatiaairlines.com, or call our Contact Centre at tel. +385 1 6676 555 or 072 500 505.

reprezentacijom. Iznimno smo ponosni što ćemo na nadolazećim europskim i svjetskim nogometnim natjecanjima biti podrška našoj nacionalnoj vrsti te njezin partner u promociji Hrvatske u svijetu izjavio je tom prigodom Jasmin Bajić, naš predsjednik Uprave. Podsjetimo, hrvatska nogometna reprezentacija nakon osvajanja srebrne medalje u Rusiji vratila se u Hrvatsku 16. srpnja ove godine svečanim letom Croatia Airlinesa na liniji Moskva − Zagreb. Tradicija prijevoza hrvatske nogometne reprezentacije s velikih natjecanja počela je prije dvadeset godina, u srpnju 1998. godine, kada se izabrana nogometna vrsta u domovinu vratila zrakoplovom Croatia Airlinesa s brončanim odličjem osvojenim na nogometnom prvenstvu svijeta u Francuskoj.

CROATIA AIRLINES, THE OFFICIAL CARRIER OF CROATIAN FOOTBALL FEDERATION At the beginning of September, Croatia Airlines signed a business collaboration agreement with the Croatian Football Federation (CFF), having thus become CFF’s official airline carrier during the next two year period. − Signing this agreement confirms our bond with the Croatian national football team. We’re exceptionally proud of the fact that we’ll support our national football team during upcoming European and world championships, and that we’ll partner them in promoting Croatia in the world − said

Jasmin Bajić, President and CEO of Croatia Airlines. After having won the silver medal in Russia, the Croatian national football team returned to Croatia on 16th July this year aboard a special Croatia Airlines flight from Moscow. The tradition of flying the Croatian national football team from major competitions began twenty years ago, in July 1998, when the then Croatian national football team returned home aboard a Croatia Airlines aircraft with the bronze medal they won at the world championship in France.

PREVEZLI SMO NAŠE VRHUNSKE SPORTAŠE Osobito smo ponosni što smo tijekom ljeta prevezli mnoge naše vrhunske sportaše. Svima čestitamo na izvrsnim rezultatima i želimo im puno sreće u nastavku sportskih karijera! Prva se iz Rusije našim zrakoplovom iz Moskve u Zagreb vratila hrvatska nogometna reprezentacija. S posebnim je uzbuđenjem u Zračnoj luci, u gradu Zagrebu i cijeloj Hrvatskoj dočekana naša reprezentacija, koja je osvojila drugo mjesto, a njezin kapetan Luka Modrić proglašen je najboljim igračem prvenstva. U povodu veličanstvenog uspjeha Vatrenih posebno smo brendirali naš zrakoplov Airbus 319. Croatijinim su se zrakoplovom iz Barcelone u Zagreb vratili i naši sjajni vaterpolisti, aktualni svjetski prvaci, koji su osvojili brončanu medalju na Europskome prvenstvu u Barceloni. Bilo nam je zadovoljstvo iz Amsterdama

Početkom rujna potpisali smo ugovor o poslovnoj suradnji s Hrvatskim nogometnim savezom i postali njegov službeni avioprijevoznik u sljedeće dvije godine. - Potpisivanje ugovora potvrda je naše povezanosti s hrvatskom nogometnom

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Š. Lugarov

SLUŽBENI SMO PRIJEVOZNIK HRVATSKOG NOGOMETNOG SAVEZA

Hrvatska vaterpolo reprezentacija / The Croatian national men’s water polo team

Zlatna Sandra Perković / Gold medal winner Sandra Perković

WH E R E AM B ITION L IVES

Undergraduate Programs

HOO

240 ECTS

FLYING CROATIA’S TOP ATHLETES We’re particularly proud of the fact that many of Croatia’s top athletes flew aboard Croatia Airlines flights during this summer. We congratulate them on the excellent results they’ve achieved and wish them a lot of success in their sports careers! The first to have flown aboard our flight from Moscow to Zagreb was the Croatian national football team from the world championship in Russia. The Croatian national football team, who won the silver medal, was welcomed at the

Franjo Tuđman Airport, in Zagreb and throughout Croatia with tremendous excitement, with the team’s captain, Luka Modrić, having been selected as best player of the cup. Our Airbus 319 aircraft was specially decorated for the occasion, honouring the brilliant success of Croatia’s Vatreni. It was also aboard a Croatia Airlines flight that the Croatian men’s national water polo team, the current world champions, returned to Zagreb from Barcelona, where they won the bronze medal at the Men’s European Water Polo Championship. We were honoured to have flown to Zagreb from Amsterdam brothers Valent and Martin Sinković, who won the gold medal at the 2018 European Rowing Championship in Glasgow. Croatia Airlines also had the honour of flying Sandra Perković, the world’s best discus thrower, who also won the gold medal at the European Athletics Championship in Berlin.

Graduate Programs 60 ECTS

MBA program Executive MBA program

Doctoral Program Doctor of Business Administration Sheffield Hallam University

2800 students graduated at ZSEM

140 partner universities

94% of ZSEM alumni find employment within 1 year of graduation

66% professors with doctoral degree

More than 150 top lecturers

ZSEM alumni work at 25 countries around the world

Š. Lugarov

u Zagreb prevesti braću Valenta i Martina Sinkovića, koji su osvojili zlatnu medalju na Europskome prvenstvu u veslanju u Glasgowu. Također, imali smo čast iz Beča u Zagreb prevesti i Sandru Perković, našu najbolju svjetsku bacačicu diska, koja je također osvojila zlatnu medalju na Europskom atletskom prvenstvu u Berlinu.

Economics and Management Business Law and Economics Business Mathematics and Economics

CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

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www.zsem.hr

SPREMNI ZA LET? READY TO FLY?

8kg RUČNA PRTLJAGA

HAND BAGGAGE

Dopuštena ručna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda je 1 komad, a za putnike poslovnog razreda 2 komada (težine do 8 kg i zbroja dimenzija do 115 cm) Veće komade ručne prtljage spremite u pretince, a manje torbe označene privjeskom Prtljaga za avion stavite ispod sjedala ispred vas, osim u redovima kod izlaza za slučaj opasnosti. Dodatno, svaki putnik može ponijeti u kabinu: - 1 komad osobne prtljage najveće dopuštene veličine 40x30x10 cm - putuje li s djetetom do 2 g. - 1 dječja kolica ili autosjedalicu ili nosiljku te hranu za bebe - bolesne i invalidne osobe mogu ponijeti ortopedska pomagala ili protetske naprave

The hand baggage allowance for economy class passengers is 1 piece and for business class passengers 2 pieces (weighing up to 8 kg, whose total sum of dimensions does not exceed 115 cm). Your hand baggage must be stowed in overhead compartments. All smaller bags with a Carry-on Baggage tag must be placed under the seat in front of you, except in emergency exit rows. Each passenger may additionally take into the passenger cabin the following: - 1 personal item whose maximum size does not exceed 40x30x10 cm (16x12x4 in); - each passenger travelling with a child under 2 years of age is also allowed to take aboard 1 infant's carrying basket or a fully collapsible stroller/pushchair or a car seat and baby food; - disabled passengers may also take 1 pair of crutches and/or braces or any other prosthetic device.

20 cm 100ml

30 cm

100ml

20 cm TEKUĆINE U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI U zrakoplov se smiju unositi: - tekućine kupljene u duty free prodavaonicama ili u zrakoplovu, pod uvjetom da su spremljene u prozirne plastične vrećice, zapečaćene prilikom kupnje (STEB) i ne smiju se otvarati do krajnjeg odredišta - tekućine pakirane u pojedinačnim pakiranjima do 100 ml ili 100 g u prozirnoj plastičnoj vrećici sa zatvaračem do 1 litre - tekućine koje se tijekom leta koriste u medicinske svrhe ili zbog posebnih prehrambenih potreba (dječja hrana). Ostale tekućine mogu se prevoziti u predanoj prtljazi. LIQUIDS IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE

Carry-on baggage

10 cm

Please place this bag under the seat in front of you.

The following can be taken aboard our aircraft:

Not for exit rows.

40 cm

55 cm

20 cm

40 cm

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- liquids purchased in airside duty free shops past the airport security check, provided they are stored in transparent plastic bags, sealed when purchased (STEB) and remain unopened until your final destination; - liquids packed in individual packaging up to 100 ml or 100 gr and stored in a transparent plastic bag with a zipper (up to maximally 1 litre); - liquids that are to be used during flights for medical purposes or for special nutritional needs (baby food). Other liquids can be transported in your checked baggage.

Cruise

o ŽIVOTINJE U PUTNIČKOJ KABINI U kabini se istodobno mogu prevoziti samo dvije životinje - dva psa ili dvije mačke. Prijevoz psa i mačke na istome letu nije dozvoljen. Životinje mogu putovati isključivo u torbi za nošenje i prijevoz kućnih ljubimaca, a tijekom cijeloga leta moraju biti u torbi ispod prednjeg sjedala. Životinje koje se zbog veličine ne mogu prevoziti u putničkoj kabini prevoze se u prtljažniku zrakoplova. Putnik je dužan pribaviti potrebnu dokumentaciju. Prijevoz životinja treba unaprijed rezervirati i dodatno se plaća u poslovnicama. ANIMALS IN THE PASSENGER CABIN On the same flight, only two animals can be transported at the same time either two dogs or two cats. The transportation of dogs and cats on the same flight is not permitted. A passenger can carry only one pet bag to be held under the seat in front of the passenger throughout the entire flight. Animals that cannot be transported in the passenger cabin due to their size are transported in the aircraft hold if they meet certain conditions. Passengers are required to obtain all the necessary documentation. Animal transportation must be booked in advance at an additional charge to be paid in any branch office.

ELEKTRONIČKI UREĐAJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroničkih uređaja dopuštena je isključivo u zrakoplovnom radu, a teže i veće uređaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obaveznoga vezanja.

Dopuštene elektroničke naprave: - mobilni / pametni telefoni - tablet računala - slušalice za suzbijanje buke - digitalni audio / MP3 uređaji - elektroničke igre - e-čitači - prijenosna / notebook računala - prijenosni DVD / CD uređaji - Bluetooth uređaji - kamere - medicinski uređaji - električni brijaći aparati Zabranjene elektroničke naprave: - elektronički uređaji za simuliranje pušenja - samobalansirajući uređaji koji sadrže litijeve baterije nisu dozvoljeni u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI

ELECTRONIC DEVICES IN YOUR HAND BAGGAGE

The use of electronic devices is allowed only in airplane mode. Heavy and large devices must be stored away while the seat belt sign is on. Electronic devices allowed aboard our aircraft: - mobile/smart telephones - tablet computers - noise-cancelling headphones - digital audio/MP3 players - electronic games - e-book readers - laptop/notebook computers - portable DVD/CD players - Bluetooth devices - cameras - medical devices - electric shavers Electronic devices not allowed aboard our aircraft: - electric smoking simulation devices - self-balancing devices that run on lithium batteries are not allowed in either your hand baggage or checked baggage

Zakonom je zabranjeno nošenje opasnoga materijala u ručnoj i predanoj prtljazi. To su eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekućine i čvrste tvari, radioaktivni materijali, infektivne tvari i otrovi, oružje, stlačeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuća sredstva itd. ITEMS NOT ALLOWED The carrying of hazardous items and materials in either your hand baggage or checked baggage is prohibited by law. These are explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials, infectious substances and poisons, weapons, compressed gases, corrosive and oxidising agents, etc.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA Svi su obroci i pića u našim zrakoplovima besplatni, a usluga ovisi o razredu prijevoza, duljini leta i dobu dana. Nudimo vam mogućnost kupnje na letu u našem Sky shopu. Za posebne prigode postoji mogućnost kupnje torte i pjenušca koje poslužujemo na letu. Dopuštena je konzumacija samo onih alkoholnih pića koja su poslužena u zrakoplovu. SERVICE DURING FLIGHTS All meals and drinks aboard our aircraft are free of charge, and the service offered depends on the travel class, the length of flight and the part of day of the flight. During your flight, you can shop in our Sky Shop. For special occasions, a cake and sparkling wine can be purchased to be served during the flight. The consumption of only those alcoholic beverages that are served aboard our aircraft is allowed.

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WE MONITOR YOUR FLIGHTS, TO HELP YOU MAKE THAT ALL IMPORTANT CONNECTION. Our Connection Service teams monitor thousands of flights to connect you seamlessly between our member airlines. Helping speed you and your baggage to your next flight in selected hubs should you need it. Find out more at staralliance.com/connection-service

152 _ CROATIA AIRLINES 3/2018

Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft. Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

35,8 / 117

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg) 73 500

64 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

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Helsinki Oslo

Stockholm

St. Petersburg

Dublin Copenhagen

Amsterdam

London

Berlin Dusseldorf

Brussels Frankfurt

Paris

Prague

Munich

Vienna

ZĂźrich Lyon

Milan Venice

Zagreb

Pula

Lisbon

Osijek Belgrade Sarajevo

Zadar Split Bol Mostar Dubrovnik

Barcelona

Bucharest

Rijeka

Rome

Skopje

Athens

Tel Aviv

Code Share Partners

Star Aliance Members

Air Canada

Adria Airways

Eva Air

Asiana

Aegean

LOT Polish Airlines

Air Canada

Lufthansa

Swiss International Air Lines

Air China

Scandinavian Airlines

Air France

Air India

Shenzhen Airlines

Austrian Airlines

Air New Zealand

Singapore Airlines

Lufthansa

ANA - All Nippon Airways

South African Airways

TAP Portugal

Asiana Airlines

Swiss

Air India

Austrian Airlines

TAP Air Portugal

Brussels Airlines

Avianca

Thai Airways International

SAS

Avianca Brasil

Turkish Airlines

Brussels Airlines

United Airlines

Alitalia

Copa Airlines