Croatia Airlines inflight ljeto 2010

CROATIA PUTNI »ASOPIS n

INFLIGHT MAGAZINE

P U T N I

» A S O P I S

L J E T O

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I N F L I G H T

S U M M E R

LJETO

VA© VLASTITI PRIMJERAK

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M A G A Z I N E

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YOUR PERSONAL COPY

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SUMMER 2010

D. FabijaniÊ

DOBRO DO©LI U ZRAKOPLOV!

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 fax +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com Direktor/President & C.E.O. Ivan MiπetiÊ Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ∆ulumoviÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ Uredniπtvo/Editorial staff Silvana Jakuπ, –uro TomljenoviÊ, Ksenija ÆlofRoman Gebauer, Miljenkbravka Urednik fotografije/Photo editor Damir FabijaniÊ Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o.

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26 Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec

WELCOME ABOARD!

Poštovani put­ni­ci!

Dear passengers,

D

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obro doπli u zrakoplov Croatia Airlinesa i ovom prigodom. Vjerujem da su pred vama dani odmora te da Êete tijekom ljeta posjetiti i neko privlaËno hrvatsko turistiËko odrediπte. Zbog toga smo i ovaj put u naπem Ëasopisu pripremili niz tema kako bismo vas i mi upoznali s hrvatskim ljepotama koje moæda joπ niste otkrili.

Iako traje ljeto, pozivamo vas da posjetite i hrvatske kontinentalne zanimljivosti. Primjerice, nedavno je u Krapini otvoren novi muzej krapinskog praËovjeka, neandertalca, koji bi mogao postati europska turistiËka meka. Predstavljamo vam i Kosinj, nedovoljno poznat liËki biser, æivopisno selo u prekrasnoj Kosinjskoj dolini. A jeste li znali da je Dinara najviπa hrvatska planina? Provodite li godiπnji odmor na naπem moru, vrijedi truda odvojiti jedan dan i popeti se na najviπi hrvatski vrh (1831 m), koji je relativno lako dostupan. U ovom broju ponovo piπemo i o naπima svjetski poznatima prelijepim PlitviËkim jezerima, ali predstavljamo ih iz drukËijeg kuta, ulazeÊi u dubine njihova podvodna svijeta.

A u morskim dubinama otkriven je i jedan od najdragocjenijih hrvatskih arheoloπkih nalaza, koji je obogatio ne samo hrvatsku, nego i svjetsku kulturu, kip Apoksiomena, antiËkog sportaπa. Moæete ga vidjeti izloæenoga, posjetite li Zadar. Dakako, pozivamo vas da se i ovog ljeta odmorite na Jadranu. Moæda da svratite u sjevernije Ivan MiπetiÊ Selce, gradiÊ po mjeri, u kojemu i gosti i domaÊi imaju mnogo razloga osjeÊati se ugodno? Ili da se zaputite juænije, na jedan od naπih najljepπih otoka, BraË, Ëija Êe raznolikost i poetiËna ljepota zacijelo oËarati svakoga? ©to god odluËili, neÊete pogrijeπiti. Kao πto neÊete pogrijeπiti rezervirate li sjedalo u jednome od naπih zrakoplova, koji Êe vas dovesti do naπega novog odrediπta, Atene.

Eto, dragi putnici, nadam se da smo vam ponudili dovoljno razloga za boravak u naπoj zemlji i let naπim zrakoplovima, koji vas i ovog ljeta vode u hrvatska odrediπta. A poæelite li putovati dalje, podsjeÊam da Croatia Airlinesom moæete doletjeti do mnogih europskih odrediπta, a s naπim partnerima iz udruge Star Alliance i do najveÊih i najvaænijih svjetskih zraËnih luka.

Nadam se da vam let s nama protjeËe ugodno i zahvaljujem vam πto letite Croatia Airlinesom!

nce again, let me bid you a warm welcome onboard a Croatia Airlines aircraft. As the summer holiday season is upon us, I am sure that you will visit one of the attractive tourist destinations in Croatia.

That is why we again bring you a variety of topics in this issue of our in-flight magazine to acquaint you with some Croatian beauties which perhaps you have not discovered yet.

Although there is the summer lure of the coast, we invite you to venture inland and visit some truly remarkable sites there. For example, there is the recently opened Neanderthal Museum in Krapina, which could well become a major European tourist attraction.

And there’s Kosinj, a hidden pearl set in the rugged beauty of the Lika Region, a picturesque village in the mesmerizing Kosinj Valley.

Did you know that Mount Dinara is the highest mountain in Croatia? While holidaying on the Adriatic Coast, why not spare a day and climb to the top (1,831 metres), which is fairly easily accessible?

In this issue, you can again read about Plitvice Lakes, one of Croatia’s claims to global fame. This time, however, the lakes are presented from a different angle ∑ the depths of their underwater world.

And the sea depths have given up one of the most valuable archaeological finds ever discovered in Croatia ∑ the statue of Apoxyomenos, an antique athlete who now stands proudly as part of the Croatian and global heritage. You can see it on display during a visit to Zadar.

We again invite you to spend your summer vacation on the Adriatic Coast. A quaint little town, Selce, on the north part of the coast, offers plenty of reasons to come and enjoy its feel-good atmosphere. An entirely different ambience can be found in the south, on one of the most beautiful Croatian islands, BraË.

The diversity of its landscape and its poetic beauty can certainly leave nobody indifferent.

You cannot go wrong whatever choice you make.

Just like you cannot go wrong by booking a seat on one of our aircraft which will take you to our new destination, Athens.

Dear passengers, we sincerely hope that we have given you plenty of reasons to choose our country and fly with us to your Croatian destination. Should you wish to travel further afield, let us remind you that the Croatia Airlines fleet flies to many European destinations, and that our Star Alliance partners will carry you even further, to the most important airports worldwide.

In the hope that you are having a comfortable flight, I thank you for flying Croatia Airlines.

Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

Ivan MiπetiÊ President & C.E.O.

■ SADRÆAJ 6

Razgovor: Mick Jones

Talent ostaje talent Mick Jones nedavno je boravio u Hrvatskoj.

Britanski glazbenik iz poznate grupe The Clash i danas je dio aktualne rock-scene sa svojim sastavom Carbon/Siliconom, nadahnutim glazbom koju je popularni glazbenik, kako kaæe, najprije zavolio.

14 Muzeji

Krapinski pra»ovjek ∑ muzej neandertalAca, europska turisti»ka meka Nedaleko od baroknoga grada Krapine svjetski je glasovito nalaziπte krapinskog neandertalca.

Nedavno obnovljeni muzej prava je odiseja u proπlost, jer donosi priËu o postanku svijeta i praljudima.

32 Kontinentalna Hrvatska

Kosinj, li»ki dragulj Slikovito podvelebitsko selo Kosinj nalazi se u prekrasnoj Kosinjskoj dolini, okruæenoj brdima.

No Kosinj nije poznat samo po prirodi koja ga okruæuje…

44 Nacionalni parkovi

Podvodni svijet Plitvi»kih jezera ©to se dublje roni, dominaciju u tiπini sve viπe preuzima goli sedreni krajolik. Svijet postaje zelenkast i plav, kao povrπina nikad oæivjela planeta…

54 Priroda

Dinara, gdje Hrvatska dodiruje nebo Dinara je najviπa hrvatska planina, privlaËna planinarima, ali i turistima, koji otkrivaju njezine ljepote. U tamoπnji obnovljeni planinarski dom ide se sve ËeπÊe.

66 Baština

Dar iz mora na svjetskoj sceni Kip Apoksiomena, grËkog ljepotana savrπenih proporcija, pronaen je u Maloloπinjskom akvatoriju. RijeË je o jednome od najdragocjenijih hrvatskih arheoloπkih nalaza.

72 Obala

Æivopisno i radiŠno Selce Selce je simpatiËno i ne preveliko mjesto, nastalo u æivopisnoj uvali. Klima je vrlo ugodna i izvan sezone, zrak Ëist, a more bistro…

84 Otoci

Poeti»na ljepota Bra»a

Zovu ga otokom od kamena. Pa odakle onda sve te πume, viπnje, naranËe i groæe, odakle brnistre tako zlatne da se nadmeÊu sa Suncem?

I, dakako, plavo more.

116 Meridijani

Albanija, zemlja kontrasta IspriËati priËu o Albaniji nije moguÊe bez njezine povijesti, koja je ovoj zanimljivoj zemlji odredila danaπnju sliku.

132 Tradicija

Grand Prix u kosi Kosa je ukras lica, simbol æenstvenosti, a katkad i spretno poslana poruka. Æene su kroz povijest znale rabiti to svoje moÊno sredstvo…

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■ CONTENTS 6

Interview: Mick Jones

Talent Remains Talent Mick Jones recently stayed in Croatia. This British musician of the well-known group The Clash is still part of the rock scene with his group Carbon/Silicon, inspired by the music that this popular musician first fell in love with, he says.

14 Museums

The Krapina Neanderthal ∑ A Neanderthal Museum as a European Tourist Mecca This recently renovated museum takes you on a journey to the past as it tells the story of the origin of the world and prehistoric man.

32 Inland Croatia

Kosinj, a Jewel of Lika Kosinj is a picturesque village surrounded by hills in the beautiful Kosinj valley under the Velebit mountains. But Kosinj is famous not only for its natural surroundings…

44 National Parks

The Underwater World of the Plitvice Lakes The deeper you go, the more the naked travertine scenery dominates in the silence. The world becomes greenish and blue, like the surface of a planet that never bore life.

54 Nature

Dinara, where Croatia Touches the Sky Dinara is the highest mountain in Croatia and attracts not only mountaineers but also tourists, who discover its beauty. The renovated mountain hut there is increasingly popular.

66 Heritage

A Gift from the Sea on the World Scene The statue of Apoxyomenos, a Greek figure of perfect proportions, was found in the sea near Mali Loπinj. It is one of the most valuable archaeological finds ever discovered in Croatia.

72 Coast

Colourful and Hardworking Selce Selce is a quaint place nestled in a lively bay, neither too big nor too small. The climate is pleasant even in the tourist off-season, the air is clean, the sea is clear...

84 Islands

The Poetic Beauty of Bra» It is called the island of stone. So how come there are all those woods, cherries, oranges, grapes and broom flowers so golden that they competes with the Sun? And, of course, there’s the blue sea.

116 Meridians

Albania, a Land of Contrasts It would be impossible to tell the tale of Albania without talking about its past, as its history has had a major impact on the way this interesting country looks today.

132 Tradition

Grand Prix in Hair Hair is an adornment to the face, a symbol of femininity, and sometimes a cleverly delivered message. Throughout history, women have known how to use its power.

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Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

This is your personal copy

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Damir FabijaniÊ

■ RAZGOVOR: MICK JONES

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CROATIA AIRLINES

Piπe/By Hrvoje Horvat

Fotografije/Photos Mario KrištofiÊ

INTERVIEW: MICK JONES ■

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Mick Jones odgovorio je na pitanja za naš Ëasopis prije svog dolaska u Hrvatsku. Britanski glazbenik, vjerojatno najpoznatiji kao polovica autorskog tandema legendarne grupe The Clash, veselio se dolasku te rekao da dobro poznaje povijest naπe regije.

Mick Jones answered our magazine’s questions before his arrival in Croatia. The British musician, probably best known as half of the songwriting duo of the legendary band The Clash, said that he was looking forward to coming to Croatia and that he was familiar with the region’s history.

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ritanskoga glazbenika Micka Jonesa najlakπe bi bilo opisati kao polovicu autorskog tandema grupe The Clash, u kojoj je zajedno s Joeom Strummerom postao jedan od kljuËnih dvojaca ukupne povijesti rock-glazbe. No, bez obzira na povijesne zasluge, priËa o The Clash nije dovoljna za potpuno objaπnjavanje Jonesove pozicije i statusa na britanskoj i svjetskoj rock-sceni. Mick Jones priliËno se klonio nostalgije; sa sastavima Big Audio Dynamite i danas Carbon/Silicon, te uglednim projektima u kojima je sudjelovao poput produkcije albuma grupe The Libertines, ostao je dio aktualne rock-scene koju je sa sastavom The Clash i sam stvarao.

Jones je Carbon/Silicon osnovao 2002. godine s Tonyjem Jamesom, s kojim je 1975. svirao u svome prvom sastavu. Jamesov kasniji staæ u londonskoj punk-grupi Generation X zanimljiv je zbog joπ jednog razloga; njihov pjevaË ∑ Billy Idol ∑ ove godine takoer gostuje u Zagrebu na T-Mobile INmusic festivalu. Elegantan i popriliËno sliËan Humphreyu Bogartu, Mick Jones oduvijek je bio sklon modernim rjeπenjima, kako u glazbi, tako i ideologiji. S Carbon/Silicon ukljuËio se u rastuÊe mp3 træiπte i prije Radiohead i drugih predstavio besplatan download albuma s websitea grupe, odobravajuÊi demokratizaciju træiπta, tehnologija ∑ i ovaj upitnik napravljen je e-mailom prije Jonesova dolaska u Zagreb ∑ ali i svijesti ljudi.

Carbon/Silicon objavili su ukupno πest albuma, veÊinom internetski distribuiranih, a 2007. godine i Ëvrsti CD The Last Post. Potkraj 2009. godine objavili su zadnji album The Carbon Bubble.

■ Zaπto ste osnovali Carbon/Silicon? Je li to bila joπ jedna prilika za istraæivanje plesne glazbe kakvu ste radili s Big Audio Dynamite i njezino povezivanje s vaπim zaπtitnim znakovima, gitarskim rifovima i melodijama?

- Dok je B.A.D. djelomiËno bio nadahnut hip hopom i plesnom kulturom, Carbon/Silicon viπe je garaæni rock-sastav koji svira vrstu glazbe kakvu sam najprije zavolio.

■ Kako to da ste osnovali sastav s Tonyjem Jamesom iz Generation X? Pripadnici ste iste generacije i svirali ste zajedno u vaπemu prvom sastavu 1975., ali πto vas spaja danas?

- Tony James i ja stari smo prijatelji. Prije nego πto smo osnovali Carbon/Silicon, razgovarali smo πto bi to stariji glazbenici mogli raditi, a da ima nekog smisla nakon dolaska mp3 tehnologije 2003. godine. Zaista smo spontano uπli u to.

■ Nakon nekoliko godina sviranja s Carbon/Silicon, postoji li neko podruËje koje biste osobito voljeli istraæivati?

- Kao πto znate, ovo je moj prvi posjet Hrvatskoj. PriliËno sam upoznat s povijeπÊu regije i bivπe dræave i veselim se dolasku. Ali nemamo planova za svjetskom dominacijom.

■ Svirate razliËiti materijal na koncertima, kako odabirete pjesme Vaπih bivπih sastava ili obrade pjesama drugih autora?

- Temeljno sviramo glazbu koja nam se svia i obraujemo tue pjesme koje volimo i smatramo da se uklapaju. Ali danas smo otvoreni za mnogo toga.

■ Kao bijelac iz Velike Britanije vrlo ste rano bili povezani s crnaËkom glazbom?

- Zapravo sam odrastao u multikulturalnom predjelu Brixtona, a kao mladi tinejdæer preselio sam se u Zapadni London. U πkoli smo imali blues-klub, gdje su mladi bijeli deËki nakon πkole sluπali stare bluzmene poput Roberta Johnsona, Leadbellyja, Josha Whitea i drugih.

■ Uvijek ste bili skloni multikulturalnome glazbenom konceptu i æelji za povezivanjem razliËitih zvukova i stilova zajedno. ©to je uvjetovalo takvo razmiπljanje?

- Prije nego πto sam mogao svirati, pokazivao sam zdravu dozu znatiæelje koja je urodila time da sam svakoga tko je svirao neki instrument pitao kako to radi. Sad me zanima sve.

■ Vi ste gitarist, ali Ëini se da ste oduvijek smatrali kako su bubnjevi i ritam jednako vaæni.

- Da, razumljivo.

■ Smatrate li da je odrastanje glazbenika u Velikoj Britaniji tijekom sedamdesetih imalo sliËnosti s britanskom scenom danas? Bez obzira na razdoblje, postoje sliËni razlozi za osnivanjem rock-sastava.

- U prvoj sezoni serije The Sopranos kaæu Talent ostaje talent, i to je istinito i danas.

■ Smatrate li da su The Libertines i Pete Doherty preuzeli mnoge smjernice od sastava The Clash? Snimali ste s njima s Billom Priceom, tonskim inæenjerom koji je u proπlosti radio i s grupom The Clash.

- Producirao sam prva dva albuma Libertinesa i prvi album Babyshablesa, iduÊe grupe Petea Dohertyja. To je moja trilogija Ratovi zvijezda.

Bill Price radio je sa mnom na posljednje dvije od tih ploËa. Takoer mi se sviaju i The Streets.

■ The Clash su vrlo rano smatrali da se elektronika, etno i rock-glazba mogu uspjeπno povezati zajedno, na trostrukom albumu Sandinista 1980. godine.

- Album Sandinista odraæavao je gdje smo se nalazili u to vrijeme. Takoer, nakon ploËe London Calling bio je to naπ pokuπaj da potpuno pobjegnemo ... punk policiji.

■ Nasljedstvo Clasha vrlo je jako, jeste li zadovoljni πto ste imali tako suvremen

zvuk koji i danas kopiraju mnogi mlai glazbenici?

- Lijepo od Vas πto to kaæete, ali nikako to ne mogu komentirati a da mi glava ne postane prevelika i eksplodira!

■ Kad ste u Clashu postali svjesni da se dogaa neπto bitno, stvari koje su poslije objaπnjene u knjigama poput Passion Is A Fashion Pata Gillberta ili England’s Dreaming Jona Savagea?

- VeÊina od onoga πto smo napravili bila je instinktivna, mi doista nismo pretjerano razmiπljali o onome πto smo radili. Stoga sam zahvalan za ovakve knjige koje su nam u retrospektivi objasnile πto se dogaalo u to vrijeme.

■ Jeste li, kad ste postali etablirani, smatrali da Êete morati proÊi istim putem kao The Who i Pete Townshend? Da i ne spominjemo optuæbe za kompromis kad su Clash potpisali ugovor s CBS-om 1977. godine.

- Kao πto znate, svirali smo sa sastavom The Who na njihovoj oproπtajnoj turneji 1982. i postojao je taj element predaje odgovornosti, poput Excalibura. A za diskografsku kuÊu CBS potpisali smo kako bismo s naπom glazbom doprijeli do πto više ljudi.

■ Clash su imali jak vizualni identitet i Ëesto radili s fotografima poput Pennie Smith.

Kako ste oformili svoj vizualni stil?

- Sve je to bilo priliËno prirodno, nimalo smiπljeno. I svi smo imali udjela u tome.

■ Jeste li zadovoljni snimkom koncerta sa stadiona Shea 1982. godine na CD-u Live At Shea Stadium? Uspjeli ste prebaciti atmosferu plesnog kluba na veliki stadion.

- Album sa snimkom koncerta sa stadiona Shea zvuËao je izvrsno i mislim da smo imali sreÊe πto je barem jedan cijeli koncert Clasha snimljen tako dobro. ZahvaljujuÊi Glynu Johnsu.

■ Nedavno ste se s Paulom Simonom pridruæili grupi Gorillaz u snimanju jedne pjesme s njihova novog albuma Plastic Beach. Slaæete li se da je Damon Albarn jedan od najzanimljivijih britanskih glazbenika posljednja dva desetljeÊa?

- Potpuno. Paul i ja svirat Êemo s Gorillaz u njihovom sastavu, bas i gitaru, na nekim njihovim predstojeÊim koncertima.

Glazbenici poput Brucea Springsteena, Elvisa Costella i Davea Grohla odavali su poËast sastavu The Clash na dodjeli nagrada Grammy. Springsteen je otvorio svoj proπlogodiπnji nastup u Hyde Parku pjesmom London Calling. Slaæete li se da postoji poveznica izmeu glazbenika poput Eddieja Cohrana, The Who, Springsteena, Clash, Pearl Jam i ostalih?

- Bila je to posveta Joeu Strummeru na Grammyjima, ubrzo poπto je, na æalost, preminuo.

Joe je za mene bio poput Eddieja Cohrana. I oduvijek sam volio Brucea. The Who potjeËu iz istog dijela Londona kao mi, Ëini se da je to kontinuirana priËa...

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e could simply describe the British musician Mick Jones as one half of the songwriting duo of The Clash, the band which turned him and Joe Strummer into one of the pivotal tandems in the history of rock music. But regardless of his contribution to history, the story of The Clash cannot fully depict Jones’s place and significance in British and international rock music. Mick Jones has been avoiding nostalgia; in his bands, Big Audio Dynamite, and now Carbon/Silicon, and in high-profile projects such as producing records by The Libertines, he has remained part of the contemporary rock scene, which he had once helped create with The Clash.

Jones founded Carbon/Silicon in 2002 with Tony James, whom he had played with in his first band in 1975. James’s later experience in the London punk band Generation X is yet another point of interest; their singer ∑ Billy Idol ∑ will also perform in Zagreb this year, at the T-Mobile INmusic Festival. Elegant and bearing quite a resemblance to Humphrey Bogart, Mick Jones has always been keen on modern solutions, both in music and in technology.

With Carbon/Silicon he embarked on the ever growing mp3 market and, foreshadowing Radiohead and other bands, promoted free downloading of the band’s album from their website, thus giving a thumbs up to the democratization of the market and technologies ∑ after all, this very questionnaire was sent by e-mail before Jones’s arrival in Zagreb ∑ but also the democratization of the general state of mind.

Carbon/Silicon has published six albums, which were for the most part distributed on the internet, and in 2007 they published a solid CD, The Last Post. In late 2009, the band published their latest album, The Carbon Bubble.

■ Mick, why did you start Carbon/Silicon?

Was it another opportunity to get into danceable club music, which you explored with Big Audio Dynamite, and connect it with your signature guitar riffs and melodies?

- Whereas Big Audio Dynamite was partly inspired by hip hop and dance culture, Carbon/ Silicon is more of a garage band, playing the type of music that I first liked.

■ Why did you start Carbon/Silicon with Tony James from Generation X? You are from the same generation and you played together in your first band in 1975, but what brings you together today?

- Tony James and I are old friends, and before we formed Carbon/Silicon we would talk about what it would be like for senior guys like us to make music that had some meaning after the arrival of mp3 technology in 2003. We really just fell into it.

■ After a few years of playing with Carbon/ Silicon, is there any new territory that you would like to explore?

- Well, as you know, this is my first trip to Croatia. I am fairly familiar with the history of the area and the former state and look forward to visiting. But we have no plans for world domination.

■ You play different materials on stage, how do you choose older songs or cover versions?

- We basically play the music we like and cover songs by other people that we like and we think fit. But we are open to anything new.

■ As a white guy from Great Britain you were connected with black music at a very early age.

- I actually grew up in the multicultural area of Brixton, and moved to west London as a young teenager. At school we had a blues club, and after school there was a group of young white guys who listened to old blues men like Robert Johnson, Leadbelly, Josh White and others.

■ You have always been known for your multicultural music concept and for bringing different sounds and styles together.

What led you to this?

- Before I could play music I displayed a healthy dose of curiosity which led me to ask anybody playing any instrument how they did it? Now I’m interested in everything.

■ You are guitarist, but it seems that you always thought drums and rhythm had equal importance.

- Yes, obviously.

■ Growing up as a musician in Great Britain in the 70’s do you feel that there were some similarities with the British music scene today? No matter what period, there are always similar reasons to start rock bands.

- In the first series of The Sopranos they said talent is talent, and that remains true today.

■ Do you feel that The Libertines and Pete Doherty have taken many clues from The Clash? You worked with them with Bill Price, who had worked with The Clash in the past.

- I produced the first two records for The Libertines and the first Babyshables album.

It’s my Star Wars Trilogy. Bill Price worked with me on the last two of these. I also love The Streets.

■ At a very early time The Clash thought that electric, ethno and rock music could CROATIA AIRLINES

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successfully merge together, as you showed on the Sandinista triple album in 1980.

- The album Sandinista reflected where we were at the time. Also, after the London Calling record it was our attempt to completely evade the punk police.

■ The Clash heritage is very strong. Are you satisfied by the fact that The Clash had such a modern sound and that it is still being copied by many younger artists?

- That’s kind of you to say, but I couldn’t possibly comment on that without my head becoming too large and exploding!

■ When did you become aware that something bigger was going on with The Clash, the things that were later explained in books such as Pat Gilbert’s Passion is a Fashion or Jon Savage’s England’s Dreaming?

- Most of what we did was instinctual, we really didn’t think too much about what we were doing. So I’m grateful for such books that show us, in retrospect, what was going on at the time.

■ When The Clash was established did you feel you would have to go the same route as The Who and Pete Townshend, not to mention the accusations that you sold out when The Clash made a deal with the big record label CBS in 1977?

- As you know, we played with The Who on their farewell tour in 1982 and there was an element of passing the torch, Excalibur flare.

But we signed with the CBS label to get heard by as many people as possible.

■ The Clash had a strong visual identity and you often worked with photographers such as Pennie Smith. How did you come up with the idea for your visual styling?

- It was all very natural, not contrived, and we all gave some input.

■ Are you satisfied with the recording from Shea Stadium in 1982 on the recent Clash CD Live at Shea Stadium? You managed to create a dance club atmosphere in a large stadium.

- The Shea Stadium album sounded great and I think we were lucky to have at least one full Clash concert recorded so well. Thanks to Glyn Johns (author’s comment ∑ known recording studio engineer).

■ Recently you played together with Paul Simonon (author’s comment ∑ former bass guitarist for The Clash) for one song on the new Gorillaz album Plastic Beach. Would you agree that Damon Albarn from Gorillaz is one of most interesting British musicians of the past two decades?

- Absolutely. Paul and I will be playing bass and guitar with the band Gorillaz at some forthcoming shows.

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■ Such artists as Bruce Springsteen, Elvis Costello and Dave Grohl had paid tributes to The Clash at the Grammys; Springsteen even opened his Hyde Park gig last year with London Calling. Would you agree that there is a line which connects rock musicians from Eddie Cochran, The Who, to Springsteen, The Clash, Pearl Jam and others?

- It was a tribute to Joe Strummer at the Grammy’s soon after he sadly passed away.

Joe was as close to me as Eddie Cochran is.

And I’ve always loved Bruce. The Who are from the same part of London as us, so it seems it is a continuing line…

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HRVATSKA Republika

To je Hrvatska Re­pu­bli­ka Hrvat­ska smjeπte­na je uz istoË­ne oba­le Ja­dran­skog mo­ra i u nje­go­vu za­le­u. Pro­teæe se od obro­na­ka Al­pa na sje­ve­ro­za­pa­du do Pa­non­ske rav­ni­ce na isto­ku. Povrπina je nje­zi­na kop­na 56.542 Ëe­tvor­na ki­lo­me­tra, a povrπina te­ri­to­rijal­nog mo­ra 31.067 Ëe­tvor­nih ki­lo­me­ta­ra. U Hrvat­ skoj æivi, pre­ma po­pi­su iz 2001. go­di­ne, 4,437.460 lju­di. Duæina je mor­ske oba­le 5835 km za­jed­no s oto­ci­ma, oto­Ëi­Êi­ma i gre­be­ni­ma.

CROATIA Republic of

National parks Cro­a­tia has eig­ht na­ti­o­nal par­ks, fo­ur of which are lo­ca­ted in the mo­un­ta­in re­gi­on (Pa­kle­ni­ca, Pli­tvi­ce La­kes, Ri­snjak and Nor­thern Ve­le­bit), and fo­ur in the co­a­stal re­gi­on (Bri­ju­ni, Kor­na­ti, Krka and Mljet).

Be­si­des the­se, cer­ta­in are­as un­der strict na­tu­re pro­tec­ti­on ∑ re­ser­ves, na­tu­ral mo­nu­men­ts and na­tu­ral par­ks ∑ sho­uld be men­ti­o­ned as a na­tu­ral he­ri­ta­ge of spe­ci­al va­lue. They ha­ve all con­tri­bu­

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines’ destinations stalne / regular sezonske zimske / seasonal in winter

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Oto­ka, oto­Ëi­Êa i gre­be­na ima 1185, a na­se­lje­no je 47 oto­ka.

Sluæbe­ni je­zik je­st hrvat­ski, a pi­smo la­ti­niË­no. Nov­Ëa­na je­di­ni­ca - ku­na.

Glav­ni je grad Za­greb (779.145 sta­nov­ni­ka), ko­ji je ujed­no ad­mi­ni­s­tra­tiv­no, kul­tur­no, aka­dem­sko i trgo­vaË­ko sre­diπte zem­lje.

Ustav Re­pu­bli­ke Hrvat­ske iz­gla­san je 22. pro­sin­ca 1990., a me­u­na­rod­no je pri­zna­ta 15. si­jeË­nja 1992. go­di­ne.

This is Croatia The Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia li­es along the ea­st co­as­ t of the Adri­a­tic Sea and its hin­ter­land. It stret­ches from the slo­pes of the Al­ps in the nor­th-we­st to the Pan­no­ni­an Pla­in in the ea­st. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its ter­ri­to­ri­al sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2001 cen­sus, Cro­at­ia’s popu­ la­ti­on is 4,437,460. The len­gth of its sea co­a­st is 5835 km, in­clu­ding islan­ds, islets and re­efs.

The­re are 1185 islan­ds, islets and re­efs, of which 47 islan­ds are in­ha­bi­ted.

The of­fi­ci­al lan­gu­a­ge is Cro­a­ti­an, and the of­fic ­ i­al script is La­tin. The cur­ren­cy is the Ku­na.

The ca­pi­tal is Za­greb (779,145 in­ha­bi­tan­ts), which is al­so the co­un­try’s ad­mi­ni­s­tra­ti­ve, cul­tu­ral, aca­ de­mic and eco­no­mic cen­ter.

The Con­sti­tu­ti­on of the Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia was adop­ted on 22 De­cem­ber 1990, and the co­untry re­ce­i­ved in­ter­na­ti­o­nal re­cog­ni­ti­on on 15 Ja­nu­ary 1992.

Nacionalni parkovi ­­Hrvat­ska ima osam na­ci­o­nal­nih par­ko­va, od kojih su Ëe­ti­ri u pla­nin­skom po­dru­Ëju (Pa­kle­ni­ca, Pli­tviËka je­ze­ra, Ri­snjak i Sje­ver­ni Ve­le­bit), a Ëe­ti­ri na obal­nom po­dru­Ëju (Bri­ju­ni, Kor­na­ti, Krka i Mljet). Nji­ ma, kao pro­stor oso­bi­to vri­jed­ne pri­rod­ne baπti­ne, tre­ba pri­do­da­ti i po­dru­Ëja pod stro­gom zaπti­tom pri­ro­de, re­zer­va­te, spo­me­ni­ke pri­ro­de, par­ko­ve pri­ ro­de. Zbog svih za­jed­no Hrvat­sku mno­gi sma­tra­ju jed­nim od naj­ljepπih eu­rop­skih vrto­va.

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ted to Cro­a­tia’s be­ing con­si­de­red one of the mo­st be­a­u­ti­ful gar­dens of Eu­ro­pe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvat­ska obi­lu­je kul­tur­no-po­vi­je­snim spo­me­ ni­ci­ma iz svih ra­zdob­lja, zbog bur­nih po­vi­je­snih zbi­va­nja i pre­pli­ta­nja utje­ca­ja ra­zli­Ëi­tih kul­tu­ra.

Nje­zi­nu oba­lu ka­rak­te­ri­zi­ra­ju utje­ca­ji me­di­te­ran­ ske kul­tu­re, mno­gi an­tiË­ki spo­me­ni­ci, spo­me­ ni­ci rim­skog ra­zdob­lja i ra­no­ga sred­njeg vi­je­ka, ro­ma­niË­ko sa­kral­na baπti­na, te niz oËu­va­nih ka­rak­te­ri­stiË­nih me­di­te­ran­skih ur­ba­nih cje­li­na.

Kon­ti­nen­tal­na Hrvat­ska dio je sred­njo­e­ur­ op­sko­ ga kul­tur­nog kru­ga i isti­Ëe se mno­gim pra­po­vi­ je­snim na­la­zi­ma sv­jet­ske vaæno­sti, sta­rim gra­ do­vi­ma, utvrda­ma i dvor­ci­ma ka­sno­ga sred­njeg vi­je­ka i kul­tur­nim spo­me­ni­ci­ma i ar­hi­tek­tu­rom iz ra­zdob­lja ba­ro­ka.

Tri hrvat­ske ur­ba­ne cje­li­ne i dva spo­me­niË­ka kom­plek­sa ima­ju sta­tus spo­me­ni­ka sv­jet­ske kul­tur­ne baπti­ne, ko­ji do­dje­lju­je Une­sco. To su ka­sno­an­tiË­ka Di­o­kle­ci­ja­no­va pa­la­Ëa, pre­gra­e­na ti­je­kom sto­lje­Êa u sred­njov­je­kov­ni Split, gra­do­vi Du­brov­nik i Tro­gir te Eu­fra­zi­je­va ba­zi­li­ka u Po­re­Ëu i ka­te­dra­la sv. Ja­ko­va u ©ibe­ni­ku.

Na­ci­o­nal­ni park Pli­tviË­ka je­ze­ra, naj­ljepπi i najpozna­ti­ji hrvat­ski na­ci­o­nal­ni park, ta­ko­er je dio Une­sco­ve Sv­jet­ske baπti­ne.

A past for the present Cro­a­tia is rich in cul­tu­ral and hi­sto­ri­cal monuments from all eras, due to the tur­bu­lent even­ts of hi­story and the in­ter­la­cing of in­flu­en­ces of dif­fe­rent cul­tu­ res. Its co­a­st is cha­rac­te­ri­zed by the in­flu­ences of Me­di­ter­ra­ne­an cul­tu­re, nu­me­ro­us an­ci­ent re­ma­ins, mo­nu­men­ts of the Ro­man era and ear­ly Mid­dle Ages, a Ro­ma­ne­sque chur­ch he­ri­ta­ge and a num­ ber of di­stin­cti­ve Me­di­ter­ra­ne­an ur­ban en­ti­ti­es that ha­ve be­en pre­ser­ved. Inland Cro­a­tia is a part of the Cen­tral Eu­ro­pe­an cul­tu­ral circle and is di­stin­gu­i­shed by nu­me­ro­us

pre­hi­sto­ric fin­din­gs of wor­ld sig­ni­fi­cance, by old tow­ns, for­tre­sses and ca­s­tles da­ting from the la­te Mid­dle Ages, and cul­tu­ral mo­nu­men­ts and ar­chi­tec­tu­re from the Ba­ro­que era.

Three Cro­a­ti­an ci­ti­es and two mo­nu­men­tal com­ple­xes ha­ve the sta­tus of mo­nu­men­ts of wor­ld cul­tu­ral he­ri­ta­ge ac­cor­ded by UNE­SCO. The­se are the La­te An­ti­que Pa­la­ce of Di­o­cle­ti­an, re­mo­ de­led thro­ugh the cen­tu­ri­es in­to the me­di­ev­ al city of Split, the ci­ti­es of Du­brov­nik and Tro­gir, the Ba­si­li­ca of Eup­hra­si­us in Po­reË and the Cat­he­dral of St. Jacob in ©ibe­nik.

The na­ti­on ­ al park of the Pli­tvi­ce La­kes, Cro­a­tia’s mo­st be­au ­ ­ti­ful and ce­le­bra­ted na­ti­o­nal park, is al­so a part of UNE­SCO’s wor­ld he­ri­ta­ge.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvat­ska je po­sljed­njih go­di­na - ocje­nju­ju meu­na­rod­ni tu­ri­stiË­ki znal­ci i sta­ti­sti­Ëa­ri - naj­ve­ Êe tu­ri­stiË­ko izne­na­e­nje te hit odre­di­πte na Sre­do­zem­lju.

Niz us­pjeπnih go­di­na na­stav­lja se ∑ su­gla­sni su ana­li­ti­Ëa­ri tu­ri­stiË­kih pri­li­ka ∑ i u 2009. go­di­ni.

Pre­ma po­da­ci­ma Dræav­nog za­vo­da za sta­ti­sti­ku, hrvat­ska je tu­ri­stiË­ka odre­diπta na oto­ci­ma, u pri­o­ba­lju te u kon­ti­ne­tal­nom di­je­lu zem­lje uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi i glav­ni grad Za­greb,

u 2009. go­di­ni po­sje­ti­lo oko 11 mi­li­ju­na tu­ri­sta od ko­jih je ino­zem­nih bi­lo oko 9,3 mi­li­ju­na.

Os­tva­re­no je ukup­no oko 56,3 mi­li­ju­na no­Êe­nja.

Pri­tom je broj ino­zem­nih no­Êe­nja bio oko 50,5 mi­li­ju­na. Tra­di­ci­o­nal­no naj­broj­ni­ji go­sti, Ni­jem­ci, prvo su mje­sto za­dræa­li i u 2009. go­di­ni, a njih sli­je­de go­sti iz Slo­ve­ni­je, Italije, Austrije, »e­πke, Polj­ske, Nizozemske...

Ho­te­li, tu­ri­stiË­ka na­se­lja, kam­po­vi i sve dru­ge vrste smjeπta­ja kao i mo­der­ni na­u­tiË­ki cen­tri oprem­lje­ni su u skla­du s me­u­na­rod­nim tu­ri­stiË­ kim stan­dar­di­ma. Bo­ga­ta kul­tur­- na po­nu­da, wel­lne­ss po­nu­da, spor­t- sko-re­kre­a­tiv­ni i za­bav­ni sa­dræaji, mno­gi ki­lo­me­tri ure­e­nih pjeπaË­kih sta­za ili pak vin­ske sta­ze, izle­ti ko­ji uk­lju­Ëu­ju ra­z­gle­da­va­nje pri­rod­nih i kul­tur­nih vri­jed­no­sti ili pak pra­vi spoj doæiv­lja­ja i avan­tu­rizma po­ve­Êa­va­ju adre­na­lin...

Hrvat­ska je bli­zu ne sa­mo zbog nje­zi­ne geograf­ske bli­zi­ne, ne­go i zbog mreæe zraË­nih lu­ka i kva­li­ tet­nih uslu­ga na­ci­o­nal­nog avi­o­pri­je­vo­zni­ka Croatia Air­li­ne­sa, kao i dru­gih zraË­nih pri­je­vo­zni­ka. Na te­me­lju mreæe au­to­ce­sta i po­lu­a­u­to­ce­sta, Hrvat­ska je i ce­stom bliæa ne­go ikad. Ako ste pak oda­bra­li od­mor na jed­no­me od mno­gih hrvat­skih oto­ka, pri­je­voz tra­jek­tom ili hi­dro­gli­se­rom s kop­na tra­jat Êe - i kad su po­sri­je­di oni na­ju­da­lje­ni­ji - ma­nje od 2 sa­ta. Ali nji­ho­va lje­po­ta i ne­po­sre­dan do­dir s iskon­ skom pri­ro­dom bit Êe ta­ko ne­za­bo­rav­ni kao da ste od sva­kod­ne­vi­ce mi­lja­ma i mi­lja­ma da­le­ko...

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Cro­a­tia has be­en a hit de­sti­na­ti­on and the bigge­st to­u­ri­st sur­pri­se in the Me­di­ter­ra­ne­an in the pa­st few ye­ars, say sta­ti­sti­ci­ans and in­ter­na­ti­o­nal ex­ per­ts in to­u­ri­sm.

To­u­ri­st anal­ysts are agre­ed that a se­ri­es of suc­ce­ s­sful ye­ars is due to con­ti­nue in 2009.

Ac­cor­ding to da­ta pro­vi­ded by the Cro­at­i­an Bu­ re­au of Sta­ti­stics, Cro­a­ti­an to­u­ri­st de­sti­na­ti­ons on the islan­ds, co­a­st and in the in­te­ri­or, in­clu­ding the ca­pi­tal Za­greb 2009 we­re vi­si­ted by nearly 11 million to­u­ri­sts, of whom 9.3 mil­li­on we­re fo­ re­ign gu­e­sts.

The to­tal num­ber of over­nig­ht stays was more than 56.3 mil­li­on, of which fo­re­ign vi­si­tors ac­ co­un­ted for 50.5 mil­li­on. The lar­ge­st number of fo­re­ign gu­e­sts ca­me from Ger­many, fol­lo­wed

by Slo­ve­nia, Italy, Austria, the Czech Re­pu­blic, Po­land, the Net­her­lan­ds...

Ho­tels, to­u­ri­st si­tes, cam­ps and ot­her types of ac­com­mo­da­ti­on, as well as mo­dern na­u­ti­cal cen­ters, are equ­ip­ped in li­ne with in­ter­na­ti­on ­ al to­u­ri­sm stan­dar­ds. The­re is a rich cul­tu­ral of­ fer, to­get­her with wel­lne­ss, spor­ts, re­cre­a­ti­on ­ al and en­ter­ta­in­ment fa­ci­li­ti­es, many ki­lo­me­ters of

well-kept fo­ot­pat­hs or wi­ne ro­ads, ex­cur­si­ons in­clu­ding sig­ht-se­e­ing of na­tu­ral and cul­tu­ral tre­ a­su­res, or the right com­bi­na­ti­on of ex­pe­ri­en­ce and adven­tu­re to ra­i­se the adre­na­lin le­vel...

Cro­a­tia is clo­se by, not ju­st ge­o­grap­hi­cal­ly, but thanks to its air­port net­work and the high-qu­al­ity ser­vi­ce of its na­ti­o­nal air com­pany, Cro­a­tia Air­lines, be­si­des ot­her air com­pa­ni­es. The net­work of ne­wly bu­ilt fre­e­ways and se­mi-fre­e­ways me­ans that Cro­at­ia is ea­si­er to re­ach by ro­ad than ever.

If you ha­ve cho­sen to spend yo­ur va­ca­ti­on on one of Cro­a­tia’s many islan­ds, the cro­ssing by fer­ry or hydro­fo­il bo­at will ta­ke you ∑ even for the mo­st re­mo­te islan­ds ∑ le­ss than two ho­urs. Yet the­ir bea­uty and the im­me­di­a­te con­tact with vir­gin na­tu­re will be un­for­get­ta­ble, as if you we­re mi­les and mi­les away from the ever­yday wor­ld...

Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku­na (kn) je na­ziv nov­Ëa­ne je­di­ni­ce Re­pu­bli­ke Hrvat­ske.

U op­tje­ca­ju su nov­Ëa­ni­ce ku­na i ko­va­ni no­vac ku­na i li­pa (lp) ∑ sto­ti dio ku­ne. Nov­Ëa­ni­ce su izda­ne u slje­de­Êim apo­e­ni­ma - 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 ku­na, a ko­va­ni no­vac - 1, 2 i 5 ku­na, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 li­pa (100 li­pa = 1 ku­na). Mo­gu­Êe je pla­ Êa­nje kre­dit­nim kar­ti­ca­ma (Di­ners, Vi­sa, Ame­ri­can Ex­pre­ss, Eu­ro­card i Ma­ster­card) i eu­ro­Ëe­ko­vi­ma.

No­vac se moæe po­di­za­ti i na ban­ko­ma­ti­ma.

Currency and payment methods The cur­ren­cy of the Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia is cal­led the Ku­na (kn).

In cir­cu­la­ti­on are ban­kno­tes in Ku­na and co­ins in Ku­na and Li­pa (lp) ∑ one hun­dred­th of a Ku­na. The ban­kno­tes are issu­ed in the fol­lo­wing de­no­mi­na­ti­ ons: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Ku­na, whi­le the de­no­mi­na­ti­on struc­tu­re of the co­ins is 1, 2 and 5 Ku­na and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Li­pa (100 Li­pa = 1 Ku­na). Pay­men­ts can be ma­de by cre­dit card (Di­ners, Vi­sa, Ame­ri­can Ex­pre­ss, Eu­ro­card and Ma­ster­card), as well as eu­ro-chec­ks. Ca­sh can be wit­hdrawn from AT­Ms.

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MUZEJI MUSEUMs ■

©

piljska vatra, peËeno bivolje meso i mala zajednica naπih dalekih predaka, krapinskih neandertalaca okupljena oko nje, straπna rika najopasnijega prethistorijskog mesoædera Tyranosaurusa, poznatog T-Rexa iz Jurskog parka, te mnoštvo drugih zanimljivosti o postanku i životu prvih biÊa na Zemlji, odnedavno doËekuje posjetitelje spektakularnoga, novootvorenog Muzeja krapinskih neandertalaca.

Donedavno ovdje je bio samo mali muzej ureen uz nekadaπnje poznato Kneippovo kupaliπte, a danas na ovome mjestu poËinje prava odiseja u daleku proπlost, u vrijeme kad su æivjeli praljudi, krapinski neandertalci. Muzej donosi priËu o postanku svijeta, povijesti Zemlje i prvih organizmima, a svaki posjetitelj moæe vidjeti razvoj æivota od prvih hominida do krapinskog neandertalca. Muzej se nalazi u udolini izmeu dva brdaπca, Huπnjakova i Josipovca, u blizini svjetski glasovitoga nalaziπta krapinskog neandertalca. Poloæajno je smjeπten tako da se ne vidi iz okoline. Ulaz u muzej uklopljen je u krajolik, pa se doima da posjetitelj ulazi u πpilju i postaje njezinim stanovnikom, πto dodatno omoguÊavaju i mnogi interaktivni sadræaji.

Muzej se nalazi tek stotinjak metara od stambenih zgrada baroknoga gradiÊa Krapine, smjeπtenoga u srcu Zagorja, podno brijega Huπnjakova, upravo ondje kamo je davne 1899. godine znanstvenik svjetskoga glasa Dragutin GorjanoviÊ-Kramberger doπao prouËiti neke Ëudne kosti za koje se poslije pokazalo da su dio najveÊeg nalaziπta fosilnih ostataka neandertalaca na svijetu.

The museum is located only a few hundred meters from residential buildings in the baroque town of Krapina, in the heart of the Zagorje region. It is at the foot of Huπnjakovo Hill, the very place where world-renowned scientist Dragutin GorjanoviÊ-Kramberger came in 1899 to study some strange bones. It turned out that the bones belonged to the largest collection of Neanderthal fossil remains in the world.

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Prema zamisli autora muzejskog postava i arhitektonskog rjeπenja, paleontologa Jakova RadovËiÊa i arhitekta Æeljka KovaËiÊa, muzej simulira πpiljsko staniπte krapinskog praËovjeka.

Ostvarili su viziju muzeja kao umjetnu poluπpilju koja je, dakako, veÊa od one prave, kako bi se πto zornije predoËio æivot πpiljskog praËovjeka.

Izloæbeni prostor muzeja ima 1200 Ëetvornih metara i podijeljen je na dvije etaæe.

Cijeli je muzej napravljen od betona, no izvana je prevuËen miocenskim sedimentnim pijeskom, istim onim koji se nalazi u temeljima brdaπca Kutnjakovo. Upravo je u tim naslagama pijeska, glinovitim slojevima i pepelu Kramberger pronaπao saËuvane koπtane ostatke davno izumrlih æivotinja i okamine drugih stvorenja, koje su potvrdile veoma veliku starost nalaza.

Evolucijski dokazi πto ih je tada Kramberger prikupio danas su temelji znanstvene rekonstrukcije razvoja æivota na planetu Zemlji.

Umjetnu poluπpilju zatvara velika staklena stijena, a potok koji je tuda vijugao ostao je ispod betonskog platoa, pa kad se ulazi u muzej, prelazi se zaista preko njega, a simboliËki ulazi u stari svijet. Ovdje zavrπava sadaπnjost jer posjetitelj ulazi u vremeplov koji ga odvodi u daleku proπlost, u æivot πpiljskih praljudi, sve do Velikog praska, postanka svemira, planeta Zemlje i naπe civilizacije.

Velika staklena stijena sluæi i kao filmsko platno na kojem se projicira film o æivotu neandertalaca u trajanju od 16 minuta. Prizori za film snimani su u Vindiji i u πpiljama kod krapinskoga Staroga grada. Zanimljiv je podatak da je maske za film napravila ista ona lutkarska ekipa iz Londona, koja je bila angaæirana u poznatoj Tolkienovoj filmskoj trilogiji Gospodaru prstenova.

Suvremeno koncipirano proËelje i popreËna betonska greda sa staklenom stijenom muzeja arhitektonsko su obiljeæje i orijentir suvremenim nomadima koji tu navraÊaju æeleÊi proniknuti u tamni, mnogima zagonetni, svijet daleke proπlosti. U tom smislu lokacija i arhitektura muzeja korespondiraju s vaænoπÊu mjesta, tako da su sami sebi spomenik jedinstvenoga, svjetskoga paleoantropoloπkog nalaziπta i spomenik vaænom otkriÊu u velikoj niski raznolikog bogatstva, kako hrvatske, tako i svjetske prirodne i kulturne baπtine.

U razgled muzeja kreÊe se s 23. kolovozom 1899., kad je krapinski uËitelj RehoriÊ poslao Krambergeru Ëudne kosti koje je pronaπao.

Prikazana je Krapina u to doba s gradonaËelnikom Vilibaldom Slugom na Ëelu, koji je Krambergera odveo na lokalitet, te ljekarnica u kojoj su zaπtiÊeni prvi nalazi. Lokalni kolorit Krapine iz doba otkriÊa praËovjeka naznaËen je u tipiËnoj arhitekturi Magistratske ulice, u πkolskoj uËionici u kojoj austrougarska, ali i hr24

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vatska uËila, odaju onodobne puËke spoznaje o Ëovjeku i prirodi.

KreÊemo dalje kroz razvoj suvremene znanosti, Kolumba, Kopernika, prvog muzeja, pitanja koliko je svijet star, poËetka razvoja geologije do 1856. godine i prvih otkriÊa praËovjeka u kamenolomu u Neandertalu. Slijedi nam Darwinova teorija evolucije i njezina osporavanja, zatim otkriÊa dvaju skeleta u belgijskom Spyju 1886., pa javanski Ëovjek 1891. i dolazimo do 2. rujna 1899., kad poËinju iskapanja u Huπnjakovu. Tu je, dakako, i dio posveÊen Dragutinu GorjanoviÊu-Krambergeru, kao velikom znanstveniku, Ëovjeku kojega smatraju ocem suvremene paleoantropologije.

U vremenima kad su fosilni dokazi bili nedostatni i kad su mnogi sumnjali u moguÊnost pronalaska fosilnih dokaza o bioloπkoj evoluciji Ëovjeka, na svjetsku znanstvenu scenu stupio je hrvatski znanstvenik Dragutin GorjanoviÊ-Kramberger sa svojim senzacionalnim otkriÊem u Krapini. Rekonstruirani geoloπki, paleontoloπki i arheoloπki stratumi otkrivaju nam æeæenu zemlju, tragove ognjiπta i pepela, spaljene kosti i kamene izraevine praËovjeka.

U slojevima pijeska i razliËitih taloæina posjetitelj moæe iπËitavati klimatske mijene, a kosti diluvijalnih æivotinja, tj. nosoroga, πpiljskog medvjeda, dabra, golemog jelena i drugih arhaiËnih stvorova, svjedoËe o potpuno drukËijem krajoliku daleke proπlosti. Iako krhki i cjelovitoπÊu oskudni, tu se naziru ostaci praËovjeka: dijelovi lubanjskih kostiju, Ëeljusti, zubi itd. Takvo nalaziπte nagnalo je njegova istraæivaËa na zakljuËak kako je otkrio diluvijalnoga pretpotopnog Ëovjeka. OtkriÊe prastaroga Ëovjekovog naselja na Hušnjakovu brijegu 1899. godine bogatstvom paleontoloπkih i arheoloπkih nalaza postalo je epohalnim dogaajem koji je uvrπten u znanstvenu i kulturnu baπtinu svijeta.

S pomoÊu znanosti i tehnologije, iz mraka proπlosti posjetitelj muzeja ulazi zatim u magiËni svijet nove arhitekture i sinoptiËki prikaz virtualne stvarnosti vremeplova kojim plovimo kroz daleku proπlost. Od poËetka poËetaka, Velikog praska (Big Bang) koji se zbio prije trinaest milijardi i sedam milijuna godina i kojim je poËeo materijalni svijet, poimamo kozmiËku evoluciju nesagledivog Svemira i postanak Zemlje prije Ëetiri i pol milijarde godina. Studio Luminus iz Zagreba, koji je dobio i nagradu Emmy za πpicu dodjele Oscara, napravio je fascinantnu animaciju kozmiËke evolucije koristeÊi se vizualizacijom i simulacijom Toma Abela, Ralfa Kahlera i dr. Volkera Springela.

U tri i pol minute, pred oËima posjetitelja, u back-projekciji na eliptiËni ekran preletjet Êe nezamislivih 9.200,000.000 godina evolucije sve-

mira od Velikoga praska do nastanka Zemlje.

Iz prizemlja muzeja, nakon uzbudljive animacije stvaranja svemira, stiæemo na kat gdje poËinje priËa o naπem planetu prikazom nastanka Zemljine kore. Vremenski stroj ubrzano nas vodi kroz vrijeme naπih prapoËetaka. Svakim novim korakom kroËimo stotine milijuna godina naprijed i pratimo kemijsku evoluciju naπeg planeta. Dug je bio i povijesni put ljudskog poimanja naπih poËela. Vatra, zemlja, voda i zrak sadræavaju bitne elemente neæive i æive materije, ali tek je suvremena znanost ustvrdila da su od tih antiËkih shvaÊanja sastojaka svega svijeta vatra i æivot zapravo vjeËni proces satkan od niza mnogih poËela i dugog razvoja.

KoraËajuÊi kroz nepojmljivo vrijeme, prispodobivo samo s apstraktnim brojkama vjeËnog vremena ili s razdobljem od 24 sata jednoga dana, dolazimo do misterija æivota. Obrnuto od kazaljke na satu, vremeplov nas vodi prema vertikali divovskoga modela makromolekule DNK, kao simbola zamrπene logike æivoga.

Rotacija puænice i simboliËkoga uspona æivota u smjeru kazaljke na satu oznaËava prijelomnicu i poËetak sve raznolikije organske radijacije i evolucije, postanak i razvoj mnogih viπestaniËnih organizama, raznovrsnih i sve sloæenijih biÊa biljnoga i æivotinjskoga svijeta.

Mnogi su organizmi tijekom vremena nastajali, a mnogi izumirali. I dok otkrivamo beskrajnu okomicu svega æivoga, geoloπko vrijeme te prikazi æivota dugoga paleozoika i mezozoika otkrivaju nam sve Ëudnije i sve zamrπenije oblike æivota. Ovdje nas doËekuju izumrle æivotinje, dinosauri i najopasniji meu njima, spomenuti T-Rex u naravnoj veliËini. Nakon izumiranja bizarnih dinosaura iz doba gmazova, ulazimo u kenozoik, razdoblje kojim dominiraju sisavci, a na kraju pojavljuju se i prva hominidna stvorenja. Iako se naπi koraci na usponu æivota Ëine jednolikima, ipak usporavanjem tijeka vremena sve viπe otkrivamo i prva dvonoæna Ëovjekolika biÊa kao i prve bioloπke prilagodbe najstarijih hominida.

Pogledamo li na onaj sat imaginarnog dana, vidjet Êemo da smo na njegovu samom kraju, pa Êemo tek koju minutu prije otkucaja ponoÊi sresti i prve hominide koji su siπli s grane, a onda s njima i prve kulturne prilagodbe najstarije vrste roda Homo. S tim, uveliko bestijalnim stvorenjima, poËinje opet dugi vremenski slijed hominizacije, oËovjeËenja joπ dalekih ljudskih predaka. Kad smo napokon doπli na kraj toga dugog vremenskog uspona, tek tada smo zaπli na bioloπku i kulturnu razinu krapinskoga praËovjeka i neandertalaca.

U izvrsnome zornom doËaravanju priËe o prvim biÊima na planetu svoj su doprinos dali i umjetnici. Golemi æiËani model DNK napravio je kipar Siniπa Mjakus, skulpture Australopithecusa

africanusa, Homo rudolfensisa, Homo sapiensa i slavne crne Lucy, prvoga dvonoænog biÊa, izradio je Ivan FioliÊ, a ilustracije praljudi, æivotinjskoga i biljnog svijeta toga doba slikar Rudi Labaπ.

Kao osobitost krapinskog muzeja treba istaknuti prvu svjetsku rekonstrukciju staniπta neandertalaca. Krapinski neandertalac predstavljen je u polupeÊini hiperrealistiËnim skulpturama. Ukupno ih je 17, muπkarci, æene i djeca, a izradila ih je glasovita francuska kiparica Elisabeth Daynes. Ta prostrana i najveÊa muzejska diorama neandertalskoga praËovjeka na svijetu izraena je na temelju iπËitavanja paleodemografske, paleontoloπke i arheoloπke slike nalaza iz Krapine i sadaπnjih spoznaja o neandertalcima s drugih nalaziπta u svijetu.

Dioramski raspored prikazuje uobiËajen svakodnevni æivot tih praljudi. Tu su prikazani kao lovci koji svojim suplemenicima donose bogatu lovinu te kao ljudi koji izrauju i poduËavaju mlae kako se izrauju kamene rukotvorine.

Oko ognjiπta okupljeno je mlado i staro, dok se neki u zakutku poluπpilje brinu o svojim mlaima ili pak bolesnima i unesreÊenima. Æivost svakodnevice odaju i razigrana djeca.

Taj izloæbeni dio glavni je ekspozicijski sklop muzeja, koji Êe privuÊi i najveÊu pozornost posjetitelja. Tu, nasuprot prozoru gdje moæemo motriti prirodu Huπnjakova brijega ili, s druge strane, prizore iz filma o æivotu neandertalaca, zastali smo u vremenu prije 125.000 godina.

Cijela inscenacija likova izvedena je na temelju dosadaπnjih prouËavanja i spoznaja o krapinskoj zbirci okamina, fosilnih ostataka praËovjeka. Mnogi detalji anatomske grae neandertalaca otkrivaju kako se oni morfoloπki razlikuju od danaπnjih ljudi, ali znanost je danas daleko od toga da ta stvorenja prikazuje kao bestijalne divlje stvorove tupa, Ëesto æalosna pogleda i æivotinjske svijesti.

Nove rekonstrukcije krapinskih praljudi odraz su najsuvremenijih znanstvenih spoznaja o tim europskim prastanovnicima ili moæda o pretpovijesnoj rasi Europljana. Iako su nam joπ neshvatljive njihove rodoslovne veze, vjerujemo da su to bili ljudi uveliko humanog ponaπanja, pa je takav artistiËki pristup znanstveno izveden na hiperrealistiËkim skulpturama glasovite kiparice, istiËe autor koncepcije i muzejskog postava Jakov RadovËiÊ. Detalji anatomije neandertalaca, proporcije tjelesne grae i ostala morfoloπka obiljeæja neandertalske æene otkriva skulptura kupaËice, smjeπtena uza slap vodotoka. Ta se æenska skulptura temelji na anatomskim oznakama najcjelovitije lubanje oËuvane na krapinskome pradavnom staniπtu, na poznatoj lubanji C ili lubanji oznaËenoj kao Krapina 3. Iako joj CROATIA AIRLINES

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nedostaju zatiljni dijelovi, baza i donji dio lica, znanstvenici se slaæu da pripada mladoj æeni, najviπe dvadesetogodiπnjakinji. Ta je lubanja u mnogoËemu postala sinonim krapinske zbirke u svijetu.

U istome izloæbenom prostoru predstavljen je i najzanimljiviji dio okamina iz zbirke kostiju krapinskih neandertalaca, koja ima oko 3000 paleontoloških ostataka. Najvaæniji su koπtani ostaci praËovjeka, njih oko devet stotina, pa je to ujedno i najveÊa zbirka neandertalaca na svijetu.

Ono zbog Ëega je zbirka joπ dodatno vrijedna jest mnogo raznovrsnih kostiju, od kostiju glave do kostiju stopala, koje veÊinom nisu saËuvane u cijelosti, nego u fragmentima. Na velikome videozidu s 12 monitora vrti se digitalizirana zbirka fosilnih ostataka praljudi, koja omoguÊuje znanstvenicima diljem svijeta cjelovit uvid u virtualnu paleontologiju i antropologiju.

Nakon æivopisnih oslika pradavnih ljudi i rekonstrukcije njihova staniπta, slijedi nam joπ iznenaenja. Upoznajemo nadalje mnoge detalje njihove anatomije, posebice grau pojedinih anatomskih sklopova njihova kostura.

Mnoge od tih kostiju pravo su izvoriπte informacija za razumijevanje raznolikosti praËovjekove morfologije, ali i za oËitovanje njihova naËina æivota te mnogih bolesti i nezgoda od kojih su patili. Zbog primjene najsuvremenije tehnologije moæemo doËarati ondaπnje klimatske uvjete, surov æivot i teπkoÊe naπih dalekih roaka.

KoraËamo preko virtualnog leda koji puca pod naπim nogama i pretvara se u vodu, a zatim dolazimo do druge interaktivne instalacije Dotakni tijelo, koja nam s pomoÊu najnovijih metoda medicinske i radioloπke dijagnostike otkriva mnoge okolnosti surova æivljenja naπeg praËovjeka, njihove traume, bolesti, ali i zacjeljivanje rana i preæivljavanje.

Vaæni dio postava muzeja govori o æivotu i duhovnom svijetu neandertalaca. MoguÊi rituali, ukop mrtvih, pitanje kanibalizma i osobit posmrtni ritual indikacija su posve specifiËnog naËina njihova ponaπanja. Iako se ne mogu ni naslutiti okviri njihovih govornih moguÊnosti, posve je sigurno da su mogli verbalno komunicirati, naglaπava ponajbolji poznavatelj krapinskog praËovjeka Jakov RadovËiÊ.

Neandertalci su kao arhaiËni ljudi bili lovci i nomadi. Æivjeli su kroz dugo vrijeme geoloπke proπlosti, u prostoru koji se proteæe od prednje Azije do obala Atlantika. Bili su na vrlo visokom stupnju razvoja, sposobni izraivati sofisticirana orua, brinuli su se za bolesne, pokapali mrtve, imali su neku vrstu jezika, te ima naznaka religioznosti. Za krapinskog praËovjeka, iako je pripadao vrsti neandertalaca, ne moæemo tvrditi da je æivio na isti naËin, tj. imao istu kulturu æivota kao i ostali pripadnici te vrste koji su nastanjivali druge dijelove svijeta. S obzirom 26

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na brojne kosti praËovjeka koje su pronaene razbacane po πpilji zajedno s kostima æivotinja, pretpostavlja se da nisu pokapali pokojnike i poznavali sakralno. Bili su jednostavna biÊa koja su smrt bliænjeg poistovjeÊivali sa smrÊu bilo koje æivotinje. Znanstvenici joπ i danas oπtro polemiziraju o naËinu na koji je krapinski praËovjek nestao. Neki podupiru teoriju da je bio kanibal, no glavni je argument protivnika te teorije visok stupanj ljudskih odnosa postignut u zajednici, te skrb za pripadnike te zajednice.

NajveÊi problem paleoantropologije, tumaËi nam RadovËiÊ, i sam zagovornik te druge teorije, sve od zaËetaka te znanosti o bioloπkom podrijetlu Ëovjeka, ostaje neandertalski problem, ostaje otvoreno pitanje jesu li oni, i u kojoj mjeri, bili naπi preci. Iako se za rekonstrukciju njihovih srodstvenih odnosa s danaπnjim ljudima nude novi genetski dokazi, objaπnjenja tih odnosa ostaju posve proturjeËna. Kad se u ovim srediπnjim europskim prostorima prije Ëetrdesetak tisuÊa godina pojavio Ëovjek suvremene, poËesto idealizirane morfologije, ovdje su joπ, vjerojatno, s njima, moæda i koje tisuÊljeÊe, æivjeli i neandertalci.

PaleolitiËka nalaziπta u Hrvatskoj, posebice nalaziπte kasnih neandertalaca iz πpilje Vindija, svjedoËe kako je svijet neandertalaca, sliËno mnogim mijenama proπlosti, prije tridesetak tisuÊa godina uglavnom pretvoren u svijet onoga πto nazivamo svijetom suvremena Ëovjeka.

Pojava simboliËkog izraæavanja, umiπljaji i izriËaji apstrakcije te pojava umjetnosti oznaËavaju onu razdjelnicu koja dijeli kamenodobne kulture srednjega i gornjeg paleolitika, praljude i ljude danaπnjice. ©etnja muzejom zavrπava u dvorani gdje nam se pokazuje ubrzani kulturni i tehnoloπki razvoj ljudskoga roda nakon neandertalaca. Na kraju ovog virtualnog pohoda u daleku proπlost puca pogled na astronauta koji lebdi iznad i podsjeÊa nas na joπ neistraæeni svemir i Ëovjekovu neutaæivu æelju za novim otkriÊima i spoznajama.

Nakon razgleda novoga, a valja naglasiti i jedinstvenog muzeja te vrste u svijetu, Muzeja krapinskih neandertalaca, izlazi se na stazu koja nas vodi na nalaziπte krapinskog praËovjeka. Na kraju, valja spomenuti i to da je muzej dio πireg projekta, prema kojemu se u drugoj fazi planira ureenje prapovijesnog parka krapinskih neandertalaca, rekonstrukcija Kneippova ljeËiliπta na mjestu gdje je danas Muzej evolucije, te obnova samog nalaziπta.

Ideja vodilja autorskog tima jest da se oæivi tajnovit svijet neandertalaca i park pretvori u europski Neandertalland, πto bi Krapinu odredilo kao zanimljivu toËku ne samo hrvatskoga, nego ponajprije europskoga i svjetskog turizma. Muzeji Hrvatskog zagorja, pod Ëijim okriljem djeluje Muzej krapinskih neanderta-

laca, dobili su ovim spektakularnim muzejom novi, atraktivni mamac za sve strane i domaÊe turiste. Krapina i svjetski poznato nalaziπte Huπnjakovo bit Êe najbolja europska adresa s tematskim parkom prepunim zanimljivih detalja o povijesti ljudske vrste i civilizacije od kamenog doba do danaπnjih dana. Napokon, Europa Êe u niski turistiËki najatraktivnijih parkova dobiti i svoj Neandertalland. n

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n open fire in a cave; a meal of grilled buffalo meat with a little community of Neanderthals seated in a circle; the terrifying roar of a Tyrannosaurus, the most dangerous prehistoric meat-eating beast, the notorious T-Rex as seen in the movie Jurassic Park; and a host of other interesting details which convey the story about the origins and life of the first beings on earth. All of these await the visitors to the recently opened spectacular Museum of the Krapina Neanderthals.

Until recently, there was nothing there but a small museum next to the building which once housed the well-known Kneipp’s healing spa. Today, the place is the starting point of an Odyssey into the distant past, into the era when prehistoric people, the Krapina Neanderthals, inhabited the area. The museum that now stands there conveys a story about the beginnings of the world and the first organisms that inhabited it. It provides visitors with an opportunity to observe how life developed from the time of the first hominids to the Krapina Neanderthals. The museum is nestled in a valley between two small hills, Huπnjakovo and Josipovac, close to the famous site where the remains of the Krapina Neanderthals were first discovered. Its position is rather secluded and the entrance into the museum blends so well with the environment that visitors seem to be entering a cave and becoming one of its inhabitants. The impression is further enhanced by the museum’s numerous interactive displays.

The museum was designed by architect Æeljko KovaËiÊ and palaeontologist Jakov RadovËiÊ.

They set up the exhibition in a semi-cave shaped area, which can be conceived as the habitat of prehistoric men, on a somewhat bigger scale, obviously, so as to provide a better picture of the life of cavemen. The museum’s exhibit area is on two levels and covers 1,200 square metres.

The entire museum is made of concrete; its exterior, however, is coated with a layer of Miocene sand sediment, the kind that constitutes the foundation of Kutnjakovo Hill. It was in those deposits of sand and layers of clay and ash that Kramberger found the preserved osseous remains of extinct animals and fossils of other creatures which all confirmed the

respectable age of the archaeological site. The evidence Kramberger collected at that time is now being used as the foundation of the scientific approach to reconstruct the evolution of life on planet Earth.

The manmade semi-cave is partially enclosed by a large glass wall, and the stream which used to meander through the area remains covered by a concrete plateau. You still have to cross that stream as you enter the museum, and that crossing symbolizes the passage into an ancient world. This is where the present ends. Visitors embark on a time machine which takes them to the distant past, to the life of cavemen, all the way back to the Big Bang, the creation of the universe, the beginnings of planet Earth and the origins of our civilization.

The large glass wall doubles as a projection screen for the 16-minute long film about the life of the Neanderthals. The scenes in the film were shot in Vindija and in the caves around the old town of Krapina. Interestingly enough, the masks for the film were made by the same London-based special effects company that worked on the acclaimed Tolkien’s film trilogy The Lord of the Rings.

A modernly designed façade, a concrete traverse and the museum’s glass wall are the main architectural features and signposts for the present-day nomads who come here with the desire to plunge into the dark world of the distant past, which is still a mystery to many of us. To this effect, the location and the design of the museum correspond with the importance of the place, so that they are a monument to a unique, globally important paleontological site and to an important discovery which has become part of Croatian, as well as global, natural and cultural heritages.

The tour of the museum begins on 23rd August 1899 when a teacher from Krapina, RehoriÊ, sent some strange bones that he had found to Kramberger. The exhibit depicts the city of Krapina at that time, headed by Mayor Vilibald Sluga, the one who took Kramberger to the site. There is also a replica of the pharmacy where the first finds were safeguarded. The atmosphere of Krapina at the time of the discovery is illustrated by the typical architecture of Magistratska Street, and by a classroom in which the exhibits of Austro-Hungarian and Croatian teaching aids reveal the popular contemporary understanding of man and nature.

We continue on to the development of modern science, Columbus, Copernicus, the first museum; we face the question about the age of the world, the beginnings of geology, and we come to the year 1856 and the first discoveries of prehistoric human beings in a stone quarry

in Neanderthal. What follows is Darwin’s theory of evolution and the controversies it caused.

We come to the discoveries of two skeletons in Spy, Belgium in 1886 and the Java man unearthed in 1891. The journey through the past takes us to 2nd September 1899 when excavations started at Huπnjakovo Hill. Needless to say, there is a section dedicated to Dragutin GorjanoviÊ-Kramberger, an exceptional scientist, a man considered to be the father of modern paleoanthropology. At the time when fossil evidence was scarce and when many doubted that the biological evolution of human beings would ever be corroborated by any fossil findings, the Croatian scientist Dragutin GorjanoviÊ-Kramberger entered the world scientific scene with his sensational discovery in Krapina. The recently reconstructed geological, paleontological and archaeological strata have revealed a fired earth, traces of a fireplace and ashes, burnt bones and stone objects handcrafted by prehistoric people. In the layers of sand and other different deposits, visitors can read about climate changes; the bones of diluvial animals; for example the rhinoceros, cave bears, beavers, giant deer and other archaic beings are witnesses to a completely different landscape of the distant past. Although brittle and leaving a lot to be desired in terms of their completeness, there are also osseous remains of prehistoric men: parts of skull bones, jaws, teeth, etc. The findings of that sort made the explorer reach the conclusion that he had discovered a diluvial man, one who lived in times preceding the deluge. The discovery of an ancient human settlement on Huπnjakovo Hill in 1899 became an epochal event in terms of the richness of paleontological and archaeological remains and it has become part of the world’s scientific and cultural heritage.

With the help of science and technology, we leave the darkness of the past and enter the magical world of new architecture and a synoptic presentation of virtual reality in a time machine which takes us on a journey through the distant past. We look at the cosmic evolution of the unfathomable universe from the very beginning, from the Big Bang, which happened 13.7 billion years ago and marked the origin of the material world as we know it. Then we move on to the creation of the Earth 4.5 billion years ago. Studio Luminus from Zagreb, which won an Emmy Award for Main Title Intro for the American Film Academy Awards Ceremony (the Oscars), has created a fascinating animation of cosmic evolution using the techniques of visualisation and simulation of Tom Abel, Ralf Kahler and Dr. Volker Springel. By way of rearprojection and the use of an elliptical screen, CROATIA AIRLINES

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visitors can watch a three and half minute film in which the inconceivable 9,200,000,000 years of the evolution of the universe, from the Big Bang to the creation of the Earth, passes before their eyes.

After the exciting animation display depicting the creation of the universe, which takes place on the museum’s ground floor, the story of our planet continues on the first floor with an account of the creation of Earth’s crust. The time machine gains momentum as it speeds to the very origins of our planet. Every new step means hundreds of millions of years forward as we follow the chemical evolution of our planet. Another long journey was the one people took in the quest for knowledge about our beginnings. Fire, earth, water and air contain important elements of both non-living and living matter, but it took modern science to establish that fire and life are actually everlasting processes woven from a number of many beginnings and long development stages, as opposed to the ancient understanding of the ingredients that make up the whole world.

As we proceed through a truly unfathomable time, comparable only to the abstract numbers of an eternal time or a period of 24 hours of one day, we arrive at the very mystery of life.

Moving in a counter clockwise direction, the time machine takes us to a giant vertical model of a DNA macro-molecule, a symbol of the complicated logic of all things alive. The rotation of a cochlea and a symbolical ascent of life in a clockwise direction mark a turning point and the beginning of an increasingly varied organic radiation and evolution, the creation and development of many multicellular organisms, as well as the different and increasingly more sophisticated creatures within the plant and animal worlds.

As time progressed, many organisms were created, and many became extinct. While looking at the endless vertical of all things living, geological time and the representation of life as it existed during the long Palaeozoic and Mesozoic eras reveal increasingly strange and complicated forms of life. Here we can see some extinct animals, including dinosaurs which are represented by the most dangerous of them all, the aforementioned T-Rex, in life-size. After the bizarre dinosaurs became extinct, from the period of reptiles we enter the so-called Cainozoic, a period dominated by mammals, with the first hominoid creatures emerging at the end of this period.

Although our steps on the ascent of life may seem equidistant, as the flow of time becomes slower, we discover an increasing number of the first two-legged human-like beings, as well as the first biological adaptations of the 28

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oldest hominoids. If we look at the time of the imaginary day, we will see that we are almost at its very end. With only a few minutes before the clock strikes midnight we shall encounter the first hominids who came down from trees; with them we shall witness the first round of cultural adjustments embraced by the oldest species of the Homo Genus. Those strikingly bestial creatures marked the beginning of another long period known as the humanization of the distant predecessors of human beings.

Only as we finally reach the end of that long time period will we come to the biological and cultural level of our prehistoric man from Krapina and the Neanderthals.

A number of artists have provided input for this wonderfully illustrative and remarkably well told story about the first beings on the planet.

The huge DNA model was made by sculptor Siniπa Mjakus; Ivan FioliÊ is the author of the sculptures depicting Australopithecus africanus, Homo rudolfensis, Homo sapiens and the famous Black Lucy, the first two-legged being.

The illustrations of the pre-humans, as well as the animal and plant species of the time, were created by painter Rudi Labaš.

One of the outstanding features of the museum in Krapina is the first and only reconstruction of a Neanderthal habitat. The hyper-realistic sculptures of Krapina Neanderthals depict a family inhabiting a semi-cave. There are a total of 17 of them, men, women and children, created by famous French sculptor Elisabeth Daynes. The largest museum diorama in the world of the Neanderthal pre-humans is based on the paleodemographic, paleontological and archaeological interpretations of the remains found in Krapina and the current body of knowledge about the Neanderthals discovered at other different sites around the world. The spacious diorama depicts the everyday life of those pre-humans. They are shown as hunters who bring rich spoils to their fellow tribesmen and teach younger members how to craft objects out of stone. Both the young and the old are gathered around an open fire, while some are depicted as tending to the youngest ones, the sick and the wounded in a corner of the semi-cave. The children are the ones who make the domestic scene lively. This diorama is the main exhibit of the museum and the one bound to attract the most attention. Across the hall from the diorama a window commands a view of the landscape of Huπnjakovo Hill; turn around and you will witness scenes from the life of the Neanderthals. In any case, time stopped 125 thousand years ago. The entire scene and the figures in it are based on the current body of research based on the collection of pre-human fossil remains found in Krapina.

Many details of the Neanderthals’ anatomy reveal that they differed from today’s humans in terms of morphology. However, modern science far from portrays them as bestial wild creatures with blunt, often sad looks in their eyes and an animal-like consciousness. The newest attempts at reconstructing Krapina pre-humans reflect the most recent scientific notions about these pre-inhabitants of Europe or, perhaps, the prehistoric European race.

Although we still do not know much about their genealogical relations, we believe that they were people with many traits of human behaviour. Therefore, the famous sculptress’s hyperrealistic approach to the sculptures is based on the current body of science, says the author of the museum’s concept and exhibit, Jakov RadovËiÊ. The details of the Neanderthals’ anatomy and the morphological characteristics of the Neanderthal women are best seen in the sculpture of a bather by a waterfall. This female figure is based on the anatomic characteristics of the most integral and best preserved skull found at the prehistoric habitat in Krapina, the famous skull C, or the one marked Krapina 3.

Although it is missing the occipital part, the base and the lower part of the jaw, scientists still agree that the skull belonged to a young woman, not more than 20 years old. This skull has become synonymous with the Krapina collection throughout the entire world.

The same exhibition area features the most interesting of the fossils from the bone collection of the Krapina Neanderthals which numbers approximately 3,000 paleontological remains. The most important are the bony remains of the Neanderthals, as many as 900 of them, constituting the largest collection of Neanderthal remains in the world. What makes the collection additionally valuable is the large number of different bones, ranging from skull bones to foot bones, most of which are fragmented. A total of 12 monitors project digitalized images on a video wall of the fossil remains of the prehistoric human beings, enabling scientists who come from all over the world to gain full insight into the virtual palaeontology and anthropology.

There are more surprises in store after the colourful images of the ancient people and the reconstruction of their habitat. As we continue exploring, we become aware of many other details of their anatomy, especially the way the bones were jointed in their skeletons. Many of the bones are veritable treasure troves of information which help us understand the various aspects of prehistoric human beings’ morphology, as well as interpret their way of life and the many illnesses and traumas they suffered from. Owing to the application of CROATIA AIRLINES

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state-of-the-art technologies, we can picture the climate conditions which prevailed at the time, the harsh life and hardships faced by our distant relatives. We walk across virtual ice which cracks under our footsteps and turns into water. And then we come to the second interactive installation, Touch the Body, which uses the most recently developed methods of medical and radiological diagnostics to reveal many other aspects of the dire living conditions of prehistoric human beings, their traumas, illnesses, but also how their wounds healed and how they managed to survive.

An important part of the museum’s exhibit speaks about the life and spiritual world of the Neanderthals. Rituals they may have observed, the way they buried their dead, if indeed they did, the issues of cannibalism and a special post-death ritual ∑ these are all good indications of the way they may have lived and behaved. Although it is impossible to imagine the extent of their verbal communication abilities, it is absolutely certain that they did have a full verbal communication range, says the expert on the Krapina Neanderthal man, Jakov RadovËiÊ. As was the case with all other archaic human beings, Neanderthals were hunters and nomads. Over a long period of our geological past, they lived in an area which stretched from Asia Minor to the Atlantic shores. They were at a very high development level, capable of crafting sophisticated tools; they took care of their sick, they buried their dead, they did have some sort of language, and there are also some indications of a religion. Although the inhabitants of this region belonged to the Neanderthal type of beings, we are not in a position to claim that they lived in the same way, i.e. that they shared the same culture of living with the other members of the same group who inhabited other parts of the world.

Given the number of prehistoric human bony remains which were found scattered all over the cave, together with animal bones, it is assumed that they neither buried their dead nor had a notion of the sacral. They were simple beings who perceived the death of their closest relatives as the death of any animal. A heated debate is still going on among scientists about the possible causes of their extinction. According to some, they were cannibals; the crucial arguments offered by the opponents of that theory is that the community achieved a high level of human relations and that they cared for their community members.

RadovËiÊ, a proponent of the latter theory, explains, that the he biggest problem encountered by paleoanthropology, the science on the biological origins of humans, has always been the Neanderthal issue. Were they, and indeed 30

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to what extent, our ancestors, is a question which still remains unanswered. Although new genetic evidence has been presented with a view to reconstructing their genealogical relations with today’s human beings, the explanations of these genealogical relations are subject to controversial views. When the first human beings, featuring modern, much too often idealized morphology, appeared in Europe some forty thousand years ago, chances are they coexisted with the Neanderthals, quite likely for a few thousand years. Palaeolithic sites in Croatia, particularly the sites of the late Neanderthals in Vindija cave, bear witness to the fact that some thirty thousand years ago the world of the Neanderthals was by and large transformed into what we today call the world of the modern man, and that those changes followed the path of many other changes that happened in the past. The appearance of symbolical expressions, ideas and abstract thinking, as well as the appearance of arts marked the turning point which separated the Iron Age cultures of the Middle and Upper Palaeolithic ages, and prehistoric humans, on the one hand, from modern human beings, on the other.

A stroll through the museum ends in a hall where we witness the accelerated cultural and technological development of human species after the Neanderthals. At the very end of this virtual visit to the distant past, there is a magnificent scene of an astronaut hovering above us and reminding us of a whole universe to explore and of the unquenchable human thirst for new discoveries and knowledge. After a visit to this, not only new, but also unique museum in the world, The Museum of Krapina Neanderthals, we step onto a pathway that leads us to the very place where the remains of the prehistoric human beings were found.

Finally, it should be mentioned that the museum is part of a larger project which is now entering its second phase. Once completed, the site will feature a Prehistoric Park of the Krapina Neanderthals, Kneipp’s healing bath will be reconstructed in the place currently featuring the Evolution Museum, and the site where the Neanderthal remains were found will be redone completely. The team of authors behind this project have been guided by the idea to revive the mystical world of the Neanderthals and turn the park into a European Neanderthalland, which would put Krapina on the European and world tourism map. The Museum of the Croatian Zagorje Region, the umbrella organization for the Museum of the Krapina Neanderthals, has lured domestic and foreign tourists with this truly spectacular museum exhibit. Krapina and the globally known Huπnjakovo Hill archaeological site will be the best European address, a theme park oozing with interesting details about the history of the human race and civilization which spans an impressive period from the Stone Age to the present day. Finally, the park in Krapina will be a new addition to the string of attractive European theme parks ∑ Europe will have its own Neanderthalland. n

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KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA INLAND CROATIA ■

Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos Krunoslav Rac

Podvelebitsko selo Kosinj svakako se ubraja meu najæivopisnija naseljena podruËja u Hrvatskoj. To pitoreskno selo nalazi se u prekrasnoj Kosinjskoj dolini sa svih strana okruæenoj brdima i planinama.

Sa zapadne i jugozapadne strane dolinu okruæuje sjeverni Velebit. Sa sjeverne strane gorski lanac s impozantnim stjenovitim vrhom KaliÊem razdvaja je od Gacke doline.

Kosinj, a village at the foot of Mt. Velebit, ranks among the most picturesque settlements in Croatia. The village sits prettily in the beautiful valley of Kosinj, amidst rolling hills and mountain ranges. Mt. Velebit flanks the valley to the west and south-west. A mountain range with the impressive rocky summit of KaliÊ separates it from the Gacka Valley to the north.

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a pašnjacima pasu ovce i krave, a stanovnici obavljaju poljoprivredne poslove na svojim njivama. U srce doline urezano je korito rijeke Like, druge po duæini ponornice u Europi. Poput neke Ëudoviπne zmije, korito vijuga praveÊi meandre, a pred Velebitom, kao iz straha pred njim, rijeka Lika otiπla je u prirodne ponore koji je na kraju vode u Jadransko more.

U Kosinjskoj dolini nalazi se plodonosna zemlja, jedna od najboljih u Lici, najljepπoj hrvatskoj regiji. Godiπnji reæimi poplava rijeke Like nanose svake godine nove koliËine mulja na polja i na prirodan naËin gnoje zemlju. U idiliËan prirodni okoliπ savrπeno se uklapa tradicionalna liËka arhitektura kojom Kosinj obiluje, za razliku od mnogo drugih mjesta u okolici. U cijeloj se kosinjskoj dolini nalazi petnaestak sela i zaselaka, a od toga sedam ih je najveÊih. To su Gornji i Donji Kosinj, Mlakva, Lipovo Polje, Kosinjski Bakovac, Goljak i KuÊiπta, a ime Kosinj sve ih obuhvaÊa u jedno.

No Kosinj nije poznat samo po prirodi koja ga okruæuje. Kroz povijest taj je prostor bio privlaËan ljudima te ga je naseljavao Ëak i pretpovijesni Ëovjek. Arheoloπkim istraæivanjima naeni su ukrasi iz doba Ilira, a na cijelom podruËju postoji viπe ilirskih gradina, u kojima su boravila japodska plemena. Na ilirsku kulturu nastavila se rimska. Najvaæniji je arheoloπki nalaz iz tog doba Pisani kamen. Taj vrijedan povijesni lokalitet nalazi se na Velebitu, iznad Kosinjskog Bakovca. Na æivoj je stijeni uklesana odluka rimskog suda o podjeli vode na obliænjem izvoru BegovaËa, izmeu dva ilirska plemena, Parentina i Ortoplina.

Ono πto Kosinj svrstava meu vaænija mjesta u kulturnoj povijesti Hrvatske jest postojanje prve tiskare na naπem prostoru. Nedugo poπto πto je Guttenberg u NjemaËkoj izumio tiskarski stroj, knezovi Frankopani osnovali su tiskaru u Kosinju. Je li baπ u Kosinju proradila prva tiskara u Hrvata, pitanje je na kojemu se neki znanstvenici sukobljavaju. Ipak, veÊina ih smatra da je uistinu Kosinj preteËa tiskarstva u Hrvatskoj. Zapisi senjskog biskupa Sebastijana GlaviniÊa s kraja 17. stoljeÊa svjedoËe da je on u svojim rukama imao nekoliko glagoljskih brevijara pisanih na hrvatskom jeziku, na kojima se kao mjesto tiskanja navodilo Kosinj. Ali brevijarima se nije moglo uÊi u trag sve dok 1955. godine dva talijanska uËenjaka, Cronia i Cini, nisu upozorila naπe struËnjake da u knjiænici S. Marco u Veneciji postoji primjerak brevijara tiskanoga 1491. godine na hrvatskom jeziku.

Na njemu takoer ne piπe mjesto tiskanja, no, prema GlaviniÊevim zapisima, to bi trebao biti jedan od brevijara koje je on vidio.

Akademik Josip BratuliÊ jedan je od znanstvenika koji se slaæe da je taj brevijar bio tiskan u 38

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Kosinju, jer, kako kaæe, nema nikakvih pouzdanih dokaza da je to bilo negdje drugdje.

- Nema materijalnih dokaza ni za Kosinj, ali prihvaÊa se. Bio bih najsretniji da to sa sigurnoπÊu moæemo tvrditi zbog nas i naπe kulture. Smatram, kao i veÊina povjesniËara, da je brevijar ipak tiskan u Kosinju - kaæe BratuliÊ. Kosinj tako zauzima vaæno mjesto u hrvatskoj kulturi, a naπao je i svoje mjesto u Guttenbergovu muzeju u Mainzu, gdje na karti prvih tiskara piπe njegovo ime.

Glasovit je i poznat i kosinjski most preko rijeke Like. Graen je od 1929. do 1936. godine, a projektirao ga je inæenjer Milivoj FrkoviÊ.

Njegova osobitost krije se u tome πto je statika mosta graena na udar vodenog vala, a otvori u lukovima sluæe rastereÊenju vala pri udaru u most. Takva je gradnja veoma vaæna za dugotrajnost mosta zbog Ëestih visokih vodostaja rijeke Like. Vizurom i poloæajem u srediπtu Kosinjske doline most dominira meu ostalim graevinama sela, ali u isto se vrijeme savrπeno uklapa u tradicionalnu arhitekturu i okoliπ u kojemu se nalazi.

Nekad je u Kosinju bilo blagostanje. Sredinom 19. stoljeÊa taj je kraj bio bogat vinovom lozom.

Stanoviti Fras, upravitelj πkolstva Vojne krajine, tada je u svojoj knjizi napisao da je na ovom podruËju 20,5 jutara zemlje pod vinogradima.

Peronospora je lozu uniπtila, no i danas postoji pokoji trs sorte Prπljivke, koja na istom grozdu ima muπki i æenski cvijet, πto je raritet.

U poËetku proπlog stoljeÊa u Kosinju je æivjelo dvanaest tisuÊa stanovnika i Kosinj je bio jedno od znaËajnijih srediπta ovog dijela Hrvatske.

Nakon Drugoga svjetskoga rata poËinje demografski pad stanovniπtva, koji joπ traje.

Jedan je od razloga tomu geografska izoliranost podruËja. Sve donedavno samo je jedna cesta vodila iz Kosinja u naseljenije dijelove Like, a tek prije nekoliko godina zavrπena je cesta Kosinj-Krasno, koja dalje vodi prema jadranskoj obali i Senju. Loπ tranzit pogubno je djelovao na privredu sela, te ona danas u selu i ne postoji. Nedostatak radnih mjesta ljude, pogotovo mlade, odvodi u gradove, a rijetki se vraÊaju.

Nekad je cijelo Kosinjsko polje bilo obraivano.

Na njemu su se sadile gotovo sve poljoprivredne kulture karakteristiËne za to podneblje.

Danas se ono doima potpuno drukËije. Velik dio polja viπe se ne obrauje, jer nema ga tko obraivati. Prema Popisu stanovniπtva iz 2001. godine, u Kosinju prebivaliπte ima prijavljeno oko 1200 ljudi. Stvaran je broj stanovnika manji, jer priliËno mladih, koji su napustili selo u potrazi za zaposlenjem, statistiËki gledano, joπ su stanovnici Kosinja, iako nije tako. VeÊina Kosinjana osobe su u treÊoj æivotnoj dobi. Ovaj kraj, kao uostalom

i cijela Lika, ima velike turistiËke kapacitete.

Danas je popularan ekoloπki turizam u seoskim i tradicionalnim mjestima kakvo je Kosinj. Blizina Parka prirode Velebit i Nacionalnog parka Sjeverni Velebit nudi dodatne moguÊnosti razvoja turizma. Na æalost, u Kosinju je turizam tek u povojima, ali moæda baπ to joπ i danas nudi jedinstveni dojam neiskvarenoga i tipiËnoga liËkog sela koje je zadræalo svoju autentiËnost. Putnik namjernik bit Êe doËekan osobitom srdaËnoπÊu domaÊih ljudi. Nevaæno je odakle dolazi i tko je. Kosinjani Êe ga ponuditi kavom i liËkom rakijom i sve uËiniti da mu boravak u njihovu mjestu bude ugodan. Kao da su zahvalni πto je i njihov dom nekomu zanimljiv.

Jedna priËa dobro oslikava æivot u Kosinju.

Kad su Turci osvojili Liku, doe, po narodnom pripovijedanju, i neki beg da se naseli u Kosinjskoj dolini. Kako se Turci najradije naseljavaju uz vodu, obie beg Ëitavo polje duæ korita rijeke Like i odabra pitomo Lipovo polje blizu ponora. Tu je i danas najbolja zemlja, a nekoÊ je bila joπ bolja, jer pokrivale su je brijestove i hrastove πume. TraæeÊi mjesto na kojemu bi sagradio kuÊu, opazi u granama visoka drveta neπto nalik na gnijezdo, pa poπalje sina da vidi od kakve je ptice. Sin se vrati i reËe da ono nije gnijezdo, nego gomila mulja zaostala od poplave. Zabezeknuti beg poviËe: Stojmo i ne traæimo dalje, jer u takvu se kraju ne ostaje, makar je lijep i pitom! Tada, kaæu, odseli se na Velebit iznad Krasna, gdje se i danas komad onog kraja zove BegovaËa.

Nepredvidiva Êud rijeke Like Kosinjanima je Ëesto kroz povijest zagorËavala æivot. BuduÊi da prikuplja goleme koliËine vode, πto od kiπa πto od topljenja snijega s liËkih brda i Velebita, obiljeæje je Like da joj vodostaj izrazito naglo raste. Baπ se na kraju svog toka tada izlijeva u Kosinjsku dolinu i plavi njezina polja. Kosinjani joπ Ëesto spominju straπnu poplavu koja je zimi 1937./38. godine naËinila dotad nezapamÊenu πtetu na gospodarskim i stambenim objektima.

Godine 1967. na ulazu u Kosinjsku dolinu sagraena je brana Sklope na rijeci Lici. Nastalo je akumulacijsko jezero KruπÊica, koje je potopilo istoimeno selo. Na drugom kraju doline, pred kraj toka Like, gdje ona na kraju nestaje u prirodne ponore, novom ustavom i podzemnim tunelom njezine su vode usmjerene prema rijeci Gacki i dalje prema moru.

Smatralo se da Êe novonastala brana sprijeËiti poplave i ukrotiti rijeku. Prije gradnje brane Sklope voda je brzo plavila polje te relativno sporo odlazila u ponore. No odræavanjem i ËiπÊenjem ulaza u ponore voda je odlazila mnogo bræe. Brana Sklope poplave nije uspjela sprijeËiti, no stvorene su bitne promjene u vodnom reæimu rijeke Like. Iz njezina starog

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toka nestali su rijeËni rakovi koji su u poËetku 20. stoljeÊa bili prava gurmanska delikatesa, Ëak i u otmjenim pariπkim restoranima. Ponori Like viπe nemaju odvodnu funkciju i pitanje je æivi li u njima joπ i danas endemska πkoljka Congeria kusceri. Polja se plave najËeπÊe u zimskom dijelu godine te velikih πteta na poljoprivrednim usjevima i nema. Ljudi u Kosinju stoljeÊima æive u skladu s poplavama, a to potvruje i to πto stambeni i gospodarski objekti, koji su sagraeni izvan dosega vode, nisu nikad ili su plavljeni vrlo rijetko.

Ali u poËetku 2010. godine dogodila se nova straπna poplava. Dugotrajne kiπe i otapanje snijega uzrokovali su poplavu koja je gotovo mjesec dana velik dio stanovnika Kosinja potpuno izolirala od ostatka svijeta.

Poplavljene su stotine objekata, a veÊinom staraËko stanovniπtvo tjednima je bilo bez struje, pitke vode i telefona. Joπ jedanput rijeka je Lika pokazala da je se ne moæe ukrotiti. Stanovnicima Kosinja ona normalnim plavljenjem obogaÊuje ionako plodno tlo i omoguÊuje bogatije poljoprivredne urode.

Katkad, pak, pobjesni i kao da stanovnicima toga prekrasnog kutka Hrvatske pokazuje da je priroda jaËa od svih Ëovjekovih graevina.

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ows and sheep graze in the fields, and the villagers busily work on their land. The valley is intersected by the River Lika, the second longest underground river in Europe. Like a superb serpent, the river meanders all the way to the foot of Velebit.

Then, suddenly, as in fear of the magnificent mountain, it disappears into natural sinkholes and continues flowing under the ground all the way to the Adriatic Sea. The fields of Kosinj are fertile and arable, among the best in Lika, this most beautiful region of Croatia.

The annual flooding regime brings fresh mud deposits into the fields and provides organic fertilization for the soil. The traditional rural architecture blends perfectly with the idyllic landscape. Unlike other places in the region, Kosinj still abounds in some fine examples of traditional building skills. The Kosinj Valley is home to some fifteen villages and hamlets, of which the following seven are the biggest: Gornji and Donji Kosinj, Mlakva, Lipovo Polje, Kosinjski Bakovac, Goljak and KuÊiπta, but their common name is Kosinj.

Kosinj’s claim to fame is not only the beautiful countryside which surrounds it. It has always been attractive for human settlement, which started in prehistoric times. Archaeological research unearthed some Illyrian ornaments 40

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at one of the many hilltop settlements of the Illyrian Japod tribe. The Illyrian culture was later replaced by the Roman culture. The most important find from that time is the Pisani Kamen (Inscribed Stone) at a valuable historical site on Mt. Velebit, above Kosinjski Bakovac.

It is a monolithic stone with a carved inscription dating back to antiquity. The inscription documents a Roman court decision regulating the use of water from the nearby BegovaËa water-well by two Illyrian tribes, the Parentini and Ortoplini.

What qualifies Kosinj as one of the more important places in the cultural history of Croatia is the setting up of the first printing press in the country. Not long after Guttenberg invented the first printing press in Germany, the dukes of Frankopan established their own printing press in Kosinj. While there is disagreement among academics about whether the Kosinj printing press was the first operational press in Croatia, most agree that Kosinj was the starting point for printing in Croatia. The writings of the Senj Bishop Sebastian GlaviniÊ in the late 17th century testify that he had held in his hands a few Glagolitic breviaries in Croatian printed in Kosinj. Sadly, the breviaries went missing until 1955 when two Italian scientists, Cronia and Cini, alerted our experts’ attention to the fact that a copy of a 1491 breviary in Croatian could be found in St. Marco’s library in Venice. The place of printing is not indicated; however, judging by GlaviniÊ’s writings, it should be one of the breviaries that he had seen and described in his book. Josip BratuliÊ is among the academics who agree that the breviary was indeed printed in Kosinj. According to him there is no reliable evidence that it was printed elsewhere. There is no evidence either that Kosinj was the place of printing, but this is now generally accepted to be the case.

Nothing would make me happier than to be able to prove this, because of what this would mean for our cultural history. Kosinj has found an important place not only in Croatia’s cultural history but also in the Guttenberg Museum in Mainz, where it features on the list of oldest printing presses.

One of Kosinj’s attractions is the bridge across the River Lika designed by engineer Milivoj FrkoviÊ and built between 1929 and 1936.

The bridge was constructed to withstand the impact of high water levels, and the openings in the arches serve to reduce the high water wave impact on the bridge. This type of construction is particularly important for the longevity of the bridge because of the frequent high water levels of the Lika. The bridge’s appearance and central position in the Kosinj Valley make it a striking feature which stands out from the

rest of the buildings; at the same time, it blends perfectly with the traditional architecture of the region and with its beautiful landscape.

Kosinj was once a prosperous place. In the mid-19th century, the region abounded in vineyards. A certain Mr. Fras, the head of education in Military Krajina, recorded in his book that as much as 20.5 acres of arable land in the region was taken by vineyards. However, the vines were destroyed by Peronospora destructor, leaving a sporadic vine of the Prπljivka variety which, oddly enough, has male and female flower parts on the same plant. At the beginning of the last century, Kosinj had 12,000 inhabitants and was one of the most prosperous centres in the region. However, a demographic decline started in the aftermath of World War II and has not stopped since. One of the reasons is the region’s geographic isolation.

Until recently, just one road led from Kosinj to the more inhabited parts of Lika. The lack of transit traffic had a disastrous effect on the rural economy, rendering it virtually non-existent.

Fortunately, a new road between Kosinj and Krasno was built only a few years ago; this road leads to Senj and connects Kosinj directly with the Adriatic coast. But a shortage of jobs still drives people, especially the young, to towns, from which they rarely return.

There was a time when the entire Kosinj valley was farmed. Almost all types of agricultural produce typical of the area were grown there.

The picture is quite different today. According to the 2001 census, 1,200 people had fixed addresses in Kosinj, but the actual number of residents is much lower. Many young people who have abandoned their villages looking for employment elsewhere are still residents of Kosinj for statistical purposes, although not in reality. Most of the Kosinj inhabitants are elderly.

However, this region, just like the rest of Lika, has a great tourist potential. The latest trend in tourism is rural or ecological tourism, which means a stay in traditional rural areas such as Kosinj. The proximity of the Velebit Nature Park and the Northern Velebit National Park provides the area with that all important edge for the development of tourism. But tourism in Kosinj is in its infancy, the upside of which is the unique impression the village makes as an unspoiled corner of rural Lika with its authentic appearance and features. The locals are known for extending hospitality to the passer-by, irrespective of who they are and where they come from. A cup of coffee or a glass of rakija (a home-made brandy) will set the tone for the visit, and the locals will go out of their way to make it as pleasant as possible, as if they were really grateful to see

somebody show interest in their home and the place where they live.

A tale from the past is a good illustration of life in Kosinj. Popular legend has it that when the Turks conquered Lika, a Bey came to settle in the Kosinj Valley. As Turks are known for preferring a waterside dwelling, the Bey inspected the entire valley along the Lika River before choosing the pleasant Lipovo Polje, close to sinkholes, where the land was of the best quality, at that time covered by elm and oak trees. As he was assessing the area for the best place to build a house, the Bey spotted what looked like a nest high up in the branches of a tall tree and sent his son up to see what kind of bird it belonged to. The son returned and told his father that the thing in the branches was not a nest but a pile of mud which had remained there after a flood.

The astounded Bey exclaimed: Our search stops here. You don’t stay in a place like this, however beautiful and peaceful it may appear.

He then moved up to Mt. Velebit and chose a spot above Krasno known to this day as BegovaËa (Bey’s property).

The unpredictable nature of the River Lika has made life in Kosinj quite hard through history.

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the hilly tops throughout Lika and from Mt. Velebit. As a result, the water level rises quite suddenly and overflows into the Kosinj Valley and floods its fertile fields. The residents still talk of the terrible flood which struck the area during the 1937/1938 winter period, causing major damage to the region’s residential and commercial properties. In 1967, the Sklope Dam was built at the entrance to the Kosinj Valley to tame the unpredictable Lika waters.

However, the KruπÊica accumulation lake, which was created in the process, flooded the village of the same name. At the other end of the valley, close to the sinkholes where the river disappears into the ground, a new dam and an underground tunnel channelled its water towards the River Gacka and on towards the Adriatic Sea. When the project was undertaken, it was believed that the new dam would prevent further flooding and once and forever bridle the river. Before the Sklope Dam was built, the water flooded the valley very quickly and took a lot of time to subside into the sinkholes. But good maintenance and cleaning of the sinkholes helped the fields drain more quickly.

The Sklope Dam has failed to prevent flooding, but it has created major changes in the water regime of the Lika. Crabs used to live in the river which were enjoyed as a delicacy in the early 20th century even in the most distinguished Parisian restaurants; now they have disappeared. The Lika sinkholes no longer have their drainage function, so one can only wonder whether the endemic crustacean Congeria kusceri still lives there. The fields are most commonly flooded in the winter, which means that the river does not do much damage to the crops. In Kosinj, people are used to living with floods, and the homes and commercial buildings constructed beyond the water’s reach have been flooded rarely, if at all.

However, a mighty flood struck the region at the beginning of 2010. A long period of rain and the thawing of snow caused a flood which cut some of Kosinj’s inhabitants off from the rest of the world for nearly a month. Hundreds of houses and other buildings were flooded, and most of the elderly inhabitants were without electricity, drinking water and telephone lines for weeks. Once again, the Lika showed everybody that it could not be bridled. When things are normal, its water enhances the fertile soils and improves yields. However, it goes wild at times, just as to show to the residents of this beautiful corner of Croatia that nature is mightier than anything that the human hand may build. Those who want to enjoy its beauties and benefits must be willing to put up with its occasional whims. n 42

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apjenjena lica plitviËkih slapova vriπte s naslovnica knjiga, Ëasopisa, plakata i TV ekrana veÊ pola stoljeÊa otkad je osnovan park. Neki od turista moæda znaju napamet sve o Donjim jezerima, a ni Gornja nisu poπteena mnogih fotoaparata. Uz gotovo milijun gostiju na godinu, teπko da su koji od klenova ili crvenperki ostali nezapaæeni s brojnih staza. Pogledaju li u njihove pitome oËi, gotovo Êe vidjeti svoj odraz u njima. Pomisle li ti turisti katkad kako je biti s druge strane priËe, uz bok ribama?

Ako niπta drugo, mnogi bi im se pridruæili æarkoga ljetnog dana i sprali znoj, no ne smiju.

Strogi zakoni zaπtite parka to ne dopuπtaju pa podvodni krajolici, detalji i æivotinje ostaju izvan pogleda. Nejasni obrisi dna ili vodeno bilje golicaju maπtu, no to je sve. Samo su rijetki ronioci imali povlasticu te Ëast virnuti u utrobu jezera i uvjeriti se kako je pogled iz zraka samo vrh ledenoga, u ovom sluËaju sedrenog brijega. »uperak trave koji tako tajnovito raste iz vode usred jezera zapravo je ukorijenjen na nevidljivome potopljenom stablu koje tek za koji centimetar probada povrπinu. Zapravo na potopljenom kosturu stabla, jer liπÊe i tanke granËice zauvijek su nestale s tijela.

Neka od tih negdaπnjih ponosnih stabala mirno leæe, no druga kao da su ostala zaleena u samrtnom grËu. Neka stoje ukoso, zabijena za dno, druga jednostavno strπe nekako naopako. Ove mumije saËuvane su od nagrizajuÊeg zuba vremena tankom sivoæutom koricom. Ta prirodna æbuka zapravo je magiËna tvar sedra, koja je sagradila PlitviËka jezera.

Voda bogata ugljikovim dioksidom u planinama je otopila Ëvrsti vapnenaËki kamen, prenijela

NACIONALNI PARKOVI NATIONAL PARKS ■

Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos Goran Šafarek

PlitviËka su jezera æivi organizam koji se stalno, iako polako, mijenja.

Samo su rijetki ronioci imali povlasticu virnuti u utrobu jezera i uvjeriti se kako je pogled iz zraka samo vrh ledenoga, u ovom sluËaju sedrenog brijega. Nejasni obrisi dna ili vodeno bilje golicaju maπtu.

Plitvice Lakes are a living organism which changess slowly but surely. Only a handful of divers, who have had a privilege and honour to take a peak into the lakes’ bellies, realize that what one sees from above the water is only the tip of a the iceberg, a travertine one in this case. The blurred contours of the lakes’ bottoms and the water aquatic plants growing there titillate the imagination.

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ga u svojoj nutrinu kao nevidljive ione i onda ga ovdje na jezerima opet istaloæila, ovaj put kao æuÊkastu sedru. Na dno jezera pada sedra meka poput snijega, no na zapjenjenim slapovima nastaje prava stijena, istina, mekπa i oblija od prvobitne stijene. Jedan od kljuËnih sastojaka za nastanak sedre u tome uskipjelom loncu slapova mjehuriÊi su zraka, a njih ispod slapova ima gotovo viπe nego vode. Smjesa vode i zraka suklja u svim smjerovima, nosi komadiÊe trunja, leluja vodeno bilje. U toj vjeËnoj perilici izdajniËki ugljiËni dioksid prelazi iz vode u zrak, gura kemijsku ravnoteæu na poËetak priËe i izluËuje male kristaliÊe kalcijeva vapnenca.

Tu u igru ulazi drugi kljuËni sastojak ∑ vodene mahovine koje sa svojim tjeleπcima zaustavljaju vapnenac da ga voda ne odnese. ©toviπe, kristaliÊi se joπ dodatno skupljaju za ljepljivi sloj alga i bakterija na finim listiÊima tih

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biljËica (mahovina). Taloæenje sedre tako je jako da sedra zarobi mahovinu, oduzme æivot, ali i i gradi u sebe. Dok ostale stijene rastu milijunima godina, rast sedre moæe se pratiti u æivotnom vijeku Ëovjeka. Na nejakim tjeleπcima mahovina nastaju stalnim prirastom i najveÊi slapovi ∑ πto se viπe prska, to Êe i slap biti joπ i jaËi. Prπtavci su jedni od najveÊih. Doslovno kilogrami vode u njima svom snagom tutnje po glavi kao najjaËa ljetna tuËa. Voda istiskuje zrak i stvara jak propuh koji πiri najlakπe kapljice metrima daleko i pruæa osvjeæenje turistima na obliænjoj stazi.

Biljke su vaæan dio jezera i slapova, ne samo zbog izgradnje slapova. Livade krocnja prekrivaju pliÊe dijelove dna. Kroz bistru vodu svjetlost se lako probija i omoguÊuje im æivot.

Zapravo, gdje god ima mjesta i svjetla, zelenilo prekriva dno. Na prolaz ronioca njihove dugaËke nitaste stabljike samo se blago

zatalasaju, ali svoj æivot provode zaπtiÊene od atmosferskih nepogoda. Mjestimice ih zamjenjuju alge paroæine, mahovine i drugo podvodno bilje. Ipak, πto se dublje roni, dominaciju u tiπini sve viπe preuzima goli sedreni krajolik.

Svijet postaje zelenkast i plav, kao povrπina nikad oæivjela planeta.

Reljef obogaÊuju ravnice, blagi podvodni breæuljci i doline. Mekana sedra kao snijeg ublaæila je sve oπtre konture, ionako veÊ zaobljenih stijena. Tu i tamo dolazi se do pukotine, naglog prijelaza, Ëak i podvodne litice, svjedoËanstva graditeljske sile sedre i negdaπnjih barijera i slapova.

Joπ dublje, samo na najveÊim jezerima, dno postaje bezliËna ravnica mekanoga sedrenog mulja i drugog sedimenta. Dubina seæe zamalo pedeset metara na Kozjaku. U tome mutnome, plavkastom ambijentu odjednom se uzdiæe golemi, gotovo okomiti zid. Potpuno je pregradio Kozjak i diæe se zamalo do povrπine,

posustajuÊi tek Ëetiri metra prije dodira sa zrakom.

Ta negdaπnja sedrena barijera pregradila je jezero u dva dijela, a s nje vjerojatno se ruπio prelijepi slap. Ali nizvodna je barijera rasla brzo, poplavila i zauvijek ga ugasila. Ili, sigurnije je reÊi zasad, jer PlitviËka su jezera æivi organizam koji se stalno, iako polako, mijenja. Sada ta barijera stoji bez ikakvih detalja, sedreni mulj zamaskirao mu je sve tragove proπlosti.

Povratak uz obalu donio je iznova æivot. Jato ribica u pliÊini tvori gust oblak. Na dolazak veÊe ribe brzo se rasprπi, ali opet vrati. Plitvice vrve ribom. PrednjaËe duguljaste crvenperke i klenovi. Neke od tih drugih pravi su divovi imali su dovoljno hrane i vremena narasti bez opasnosti od udice kakva ribiËa. Mlade ribe strahuju jedino od ribarica, vodenih zmija koje mogu roniti i petnaest minuta prije nego πto se vrate na povrπinu radi zraka. Pomalo klize

dnom, prikrivene bojom tijela u æuÊkastu sedru.

Palucaju jezikom i, kad osjete ærtvu, primire se pa onda eksplozivno napadaju. Ribarice vole mirne dijelove jezera, no zbog toga propuπtaju pastrve. Ove autohtone ribe nalazimo u podnoæju slapova, gdje ima dovoljno kisika za te vrste tipiËne za gorske brzice. Slatkovodni rakovi joπ su jedni stanovnici plitviËkih tekuÊica i jezera, polako se vuku po dnu, sigurni u svom oklopu.

Mjestimice vodeno bilje postaje veoma gusto.

Kao da smo u KopaËkom ritu ili nekoj drugoj moËvari, mulj se uskovitlao i u trenu je nestalo bistrine. Iako poveÊana teæina vegetacije moæe biti breme slapovima, te vodene biljke ne smetaju toliko koliko su indikator drugih, veÊih problema. Dobri poznavatelji PlitviËkih jezera upozoravaju da te vodene i moËvarne vegetacije sada ima mnogo viπe neko prije.

Znanstvenici su ustvrdili da se to vodeno bilje

hrani pojaËanim organskim oneËiπÊenjem iz ljudskih izvora ∑ iz kanalizacije, umjetnih gnojiva s polja, opÊenitim otpadom, Ëak i tjelesnom prljavπtinom kod kupanja i svim ostalim nusproduktima civilizacije. Znanstvenici su takoer ustanovili da je to organsko oneËiπÊenje klin koji zaustavlja fini stroj proizvodnje sedre. Tako bi postojeÊi slapovi starili, derali se, a sedra ih ne bi obnavljala. Teπko je i pomisliti kako bi izgledala jezera u tom scenariju ∑ zarasla i izgriæena, kao i ljudska koæa bez pomlaivanja.

Jezera, na sreÊu, imaju zaπtitnike koji omoguÊuju nesmetan rast sedre. Prvi su Ëisti izvori vode. Bijela i Crna rijeka izbijaju podno brda, doslovno izmeu stijena s mahovinom. Prsti trnu od hladne, nevjerojatno bistre vode. Plitka rjeËica polagano teËe i tek katkad zaæubori u dubokoj sjeni gustih grana bukve. Ta πuma nije samo ukras, nego i spreËava eroziju od bujiËnih

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kiπa. Okolna zelena brda kao spuæva pomalo skupljaju kiπu u svoju πuplju podzemnu utrobu, usput je opskrbljujuÊi ugljiËnim dioksidom koji otapa stijene.

Teπko je pojmiti da takve rjeËice mogu stvoriti takvu silinu vode na jezerima i slapovima, no nisu same, ima tu joπ nekoliko manjih izvora.

Isto tako, sva ta masa vode skupi se u Sastavcima, mjestu gdje PlitviËka jezera zavrπavaju, ali gdje se raa rijeka Korana. Taj je izvor moæda i najljepπi na svijetu ∑ prizor koja otima dah s glavnog vidikovca kod Ulaza 1. Voda je ovdje veÊ izgubila svoju hladnoÊu te je mnogo ugodnija. Ljeti je Korana teπko prolazna jer mjestimice nema dovoljno vode za plivanje i ronjenje, a dno je zamka od æivog blata sedrenog pijeska i mulja. Sjena brzo dolazi jer Korana protjeËe dubokim kanjonom.

Kroz gustu trsku jedini su ostatak svijeta gole kamene litice, izbrazdane i izranjavane πpiljama poput GolubnjaËe. Mjestimice je rijeka uska kao potok, a onda se raπiri u pravu rijeku.

Drugdje vrbe i potpuno zagrade prolaz i treba se probijati kroz njih ili Ëak zaroniti duboko kroz prolaz u stijeni. Iako joπ nekoliko velikih slapova krasi Koranu, ona je sve viπe i viπe uski prolaz kroz trsku i vrbu pa joπ samo tirkizna boja podsjeÊa na jezera. Iako se samo nekoliko stotina metara uzvodno turisti guraju da bi proπli stazama, ovdje se Ëovjek osjeti kao na kraju svijeta. Nema tragova, vlada samo tiπina.

Ljeti voda ponire veÊ nekoliko kilometara od Sastavaka, a tu su i prve kuÊe sela Korana.

Kraj je nacionalnog parka.

VeÊ iza velikoga koranskog mosta nema viπe sedre. Nevidljive organske tvari mogu uzrokovati vidljivu promjenu i gubitak temeljnoga fenomena parka, ali i Hrvatske. Zato je vaæno da gotovo milijun turista na godinu i dalje tek maπta o kupanju i gleda ribe samo sa staza. n

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or half a century, the foaming waters of the Plitvice cascade waterfalls have been screaming from the cover pages of coffee table books, magazines, posters and TV screens, ever since the Park was first established. There are tourists who know the Lower Lakes like the back of their hand, and the Upper Lakes have also not been spared the attention of eager photo enthusiasts. With nearly a million visitors a year, it is hard to imagine that any of the rudds and chubs have gone unnoticed by visitors strolling along the numerous paths. If you look into their gentle eyes, you can almost see your own reflection in them. Do tourists ever wonder what it is like to be on the other side, alongside the fish?

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day and rinse the sweat off their bodies, if only allowed to do so. The strict rules aimed at protecting the park’s environment forbid bathing in the lakes, so that the underwater landscapes, features and animals remain out of sight. The blurred contours of the lakes’ bottoms and the aquatic plants growing there titillate the imagination, but that is it. Only a handful of divers, who have had a privilege and honour to take a peek into the lakes’ bellies, realize that what one sees from above the water is only the tip of an iceberg, a travertine one in this case. A tuft of grass which grows ever so mysteriously from the water in the middle of the lake is actually rooted deep down, in a sunken tree which pierces the still lake waters only by a centimetre or two.

Actually, it is merely the tree’s submerged skeleton: its leaves and tiny twigs are gone from the trunk forever. Some of the one-time proud trees are lying still and serene, while the others appear as if frozen in agony. Some are leaning, rammed into the lake bottom; others are simply standing upside down. These mummies are protected from deterioration by a thin greyish-yellow plaster-like crust made of travertine, the magical substance which has formed the Plitvice Lakes.

The carbon-dioxide rich water melts the hard limestone in the mountains and absorbs it in the form of invisible ions. When the water reaches the lakes, it deposits the carbondioxide as a yellowish substance, tufa or travertine. Soft as snow, the travertine covers the lake bottom, and what the churning cascades create there is a proper rock, albeit somewhat softer and gentler than the original one. One of the key elements instrumental to the creation of the travertine in this churning and cascading water pot is air bubbles, and there are plenty of those beneath the cascades: there is actually more air bubbles than water drops. The air and water mixture shoots in all directions, carrying little particles, and sways the aquatic plants. The volatile carbon dioxide is adsorbed from the water into the air in this ever-spinning washing machine, it pushes the chemical balance back to the beginning of the story as it excretes small crystals of calcium carbonate.

This is where the second key element comes into play ∑ moss plants which arrest the limestone with their little bodies so that the water cannot carry it away. The little crystals also attach themselves to the sticky layer of algae and bacteria on the fine little leaves of those plants (moss). The travertine sedimentation process is so intense that the travertine encapsulates the moss very quickly; it takes the life away from the plant and uses it to build it into itself.

While it takes millions of years for other rocks

to form and develop, the travertine creations and the way they change the waterfall shape can be observed over the mere lifetime of a human being. The biggest waterfalls grow from the feeble tiny bodies of moss plants ∑ the more splashing there is, the more commanding and more powerful the waterfall will become. The Prπtavci waterfalls are among the biggest ones. The water in them, whose weight may be expressed literally in kilograms, roars with a full blast over one’s head like the strongest summer hail. Water forces out the air and creates a strong draught which carries the lightest drops metres away and offers a welcome refreshment to the tourists walking along the nearby paths.

Plants are an important feature of both the lakes and the cascades, but not only for the role they play in the creation of the waterfalls.

Parrot-feather meadows cover the shallower parts of the lakes. Light pierces easily through the transparent water and gives them life. As a matter of fact, wherever there is enough room and light, greenery covers the lake bottom completely. As a diver slides by, the long filamentous stalks will sway ever so gently, but other than that, parrot feathers get to spend their life protected from the elements. In some places they are replaced by chara and moss plants and other underwater vegetation. The deeper one dives, the more dominant the bare travertine landscape becomes in the depths where silence reigns supreme. The world becomes green and blue, like the surface of a planet that has never come to life. The relief is enriched by plains, mellow gentle underwater hills and valleys. Soft travertine covers the surface like snow and softens the sharp contours of the already rounded rocks. Here and there, one reaches a slit, an abrupt junction, maybe even an underground precipice, all of which stands witness to the travertine’s power and to the remains of the former barriers and waterfalls. Deeper still, only in the biggest of the lakes, the bottom becomes a featureless plain composed of the soft travertine mud and other sediments. Lake Kozjak is nearly 50 metres deep. A huge, nearly vertical wall rises suddenly from the milky blue haze. It has bisected Kozjak Lake, rising almost to the very surface of the lake and relenting only four metres before surfacing and coming in contact with the air. The one-time travertine barrier has split the lake into two parts. In all likelihood, a most beautiful waterfall used to cascade down the travertine wall in the past. The downstream barrier, however, grew at a faster rate; the lake water rose above the waterfall level, flooded it and turned it off forever. Or better to say, for the time being, because Plitvice Lakes are a living

organism which changes slowly but surely.

The travertine barrier now stands without any features; the travertine sludge has masked all the traces of its past.

Closer to the lake shores, life flourishes.

Schools of small fish in the shallow waters move like a dense cloud which disperses in an instant as soon as a big fish appears, but comes back together soon thereafter. Plitvice Lakes abound in fish. Oblong rudds and chubs prevail. Some of the latter are veritable giants ∑ they have had enough nourishment to sustain them and there are no anglers’ hooks in sight. The only thing young fish have to fear are dice snakes which can stay under water for as long as fifteen minutes before they need to surface for air. They slide lazily along the lake bottom, their yellow colour mimicking the yellowish colour of the travertine. They flicker their tongues to pick up the odour of their prey.

When they do, they become very still before launching an explosive attack. Dice snakes love the calm parts of the lake, and that means they have had to give up on the trout. This autochthonous species lives at the foot of the cascades, where this fish typical of mountain rapids can get enough oxygen. Crayfish is another group of inhabitants of Plitvice streams and lakes. They crawl lazily along the bottom, safeguarded by their armature shells.

At some places, the water vegetation becomes very dense as in KopaËki rit or any other such swamp. The sludge has swirled around here and has done away with the translucence.

Although the weight of the vegetation may indeed present a burden for the cascades, it is not so much a burden as an indicator of other, bigger problems. Those who are familiar with Plitvice Lakes have been ringing the warning bells: they say that the vegetation is more rampant than it used to be. Scientists have proven that water vegetation thrives on the organic waste generated by humans ∑ from sewage pipes, commercial fertilizers, and waste in general, even the bodily dirt from swimmers’ bodies and all the other modern civilisation by-products. Scientists have also established that organic waste is a wedge shoved into the delicate travertine-producing machine. If the processes in place were to continue at the same rate, the existing cascades would age, they would be weathered, and there would be no travertine to renew them. It is hard to imagine what the lakes would look like in this situation ∑ they would be overgrown and gnawed into, like a human skin without the benefit of rejuvenation.

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are the pure water sources. The Bijela (/White)/ and Crna (/Black)/ rivers have their springs at the foot of the hill, literally between the mosscovered rocks. Fingers quickly become stiff in their cold, incredibly translucent water. The shallow rivulet flows slowly, bubbling only occasionally under the deep shade of the thick beech trees branches. The forest is not just décor; it protects the soil from erosion caused by torrential rains. The surrounding green hills act like a sponge: they collect the rain water into their hollow underground belly, and in the process; they supply it with the carbon dioxide which dissolves the rocks.

It is barely conceivable that such small streams could create such a mighty water force on the lakes and waterfalls, and indeed they are not alone. There are several other smaller springs to help them. All of the water masses gather in Sastavci, the place where Plitvice Lakes finish and the Korana river is born. This is possibly the most beautiful source worldwide ∑ the view from the main vantage point at Entrance 1 is simply to die for. Having travelled as far down as here, the water has lost its iciness and it has become more enjoyable. In the summer, the Korana is not easily passable ∑ at some places, there is hardly enough water to swim or even dive into it, but its bottom is a trap made of quick mud, travertine sand and sludge. The afternoon shade comes quickly because the Korana flows through a deep canyon. Through this reed thicket, the only remaining mementos of the world are bare rocky precipices, rugged and wounded by caves, such as GolubnjaËa. At places, the river is no more than a brook, and then, it widens and becomes a proper river. There are places where willow trees completely block the flow and one needs to force one’s way through

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them or dive deep and find a passage in the rock. A few more big cascades adorn the Korana at the beginning of its flow, but the river gradually becomes nothing more than a narrow passage through reed and willows with only the turquoise colour conveying the image to remind us of the lakes. A few hundred meters upstream the hustle and bustle of life comes from tourists who jostle each other along the pathways; but here, one feels as if having reached the very end of the world. There are no traces of people, silence reigns supreme.

In the summer, the water disappears under the ground already a few kilometres down the stream from Sastavci, and the first houses of Korana village are not far from there. This is the end of the National Park.

Already after passing the big Korana bridge, there is no more travertine to be seen. Invisible organic matter can cause visible changes and result in the loss of the fundamental phenomenon of the park and of Croatia as a whole.

This is why it is so important that the millions of tourists continue to only dream about taking a plunge in the lakes and longingly observe the fish from the pathways. n

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Tekst i fotografije/ Text and photos Alan Âťaplar

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PRIRODA NATURE ■

Dinara nije samo najviπi hrvatski vrh, nego i jedna od osobito lijepih planina. Njezina jugozapadna stijena, visoka nekoliko stotina metara, veliËinom zadivljuje i privlaËi poglede svakoga tko se nae u njezinu podnoæju, a osobitu joj ljepotu istodobno osiguravaju bogate cvjetne livade i πume koje ne odaju da je rijeË o podruËju bezvodnoga krπa.

Dinara is not only Croatia’s highest peak, but an extremely beautiful mountain as well. Its south-western cliff, which is several hundred metres high, inspires awe and beckons those at its foothills to look up.

Lush flower meadows lend it a special charm, as do the forests that make you forget that, in fact, this is a waterless carst area.

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ko ste vlakom ili automobilom prolazili kroz Knin, pogled vam je zacijelo s pruge ili ceste barem nakratko odlutao prema planini koja zatvara vidik na istoËnoj strani kotline. Visina te moÊne i dugaËke barijere koja izdaleka nalikuje na golem kamenit zid izaziva poπtovanje i budi radoznalost. U zimsko doba, a i dugo u proljeÊe vrhovi Dinare bijele se od snijega, a za sivih dana i ne vide se jer ih nebo oblacima sakrije u svoja njedra. Vrh te kamenitotravnate planine najviπa je toËka u Hrvatskoj, mjesto gdje hrvatsko tlo dodiruje nebo.

Naziv Dinara obuhvaÊa viπe razliËitih pojmova.

Dinarom u uæem smislu smatra se planina istoËno od Knina, a sjeverno od PeruËkog jezera. U davnini ta je planina nosila naziv Adrion oros i pod tim neobiËnim nazivom moæe se pronaÊi u najstarijim saËuvanim zemljovidima. U πirem smislu Dinara je 84 kilometra dug masiv koji, osim Dinare nad Kninom, obuhvaÊa i planine Troglav i Kameπnicu. Zanimljivo je da se i upola niæa planina iznad uπÊa Cetine u more takoer naziva Dinara, no da ne bi bilo zabune, svuda se ona spominje kao Omiπka Dinara.

Pretpostavlja se da ime Dinara potjeËe od ilirskog plemena Dindari, no za to nema nikakvih dokaza. Poznato je da je planina Dinara dala ime cijelome planinskom prostoru od slovenskih Alpa do πarskih planina u Makedoniji.

Dinaridi su poznati kao tipiËno podruËje dubokoga krπa s oπtrim krπkim oblicima, oskudicom vode, siromaπnom vegetacijom i razmjerno surovom klimom. Proteæu se smjerom sjeverozapad-jugoistok u nekoliko usporednih nizova koji poËinju otoËnim planinama, a najviπe visine doseæu na Durmitoru i u Prokletijama. Dinaridi visinom i duæinom oπtar su zid prodoru mediteranskih utjecaja u unutraπnjost. Dinara i Dinaridi mlaega su geoloπkog postanka uzdignuti su u tzv. alpskoj orogenezi u tercijaru (paleogenu).

Planina Dinara naoko nije ni po Ëemu drukËija od drugih planina Dinarskoga gorja. Divovske vapnenaËke stijene, prostrane livade suhe trave i tek poneki trag ljudske prisutnosti glavna su obiljeæja veÊine planina u krπu. Ipak, svaka je planina po neËemu osobita, pa tako i Dinara.

Zajedno s Troglavom i Kameπnicom kao jugoistoËnim dijelom istog masiva, Dinara je prirodna mea izmeu Bosne i Dalmacije.

Ali, kako na vrπnim dijelovima nema izrazitih i oπtro odsjeËenih grebena, administrativna granica prati granice nekadaπnjih pasiπta.

Dalmatinci su u proπlosti bili orijentirani na planinsko stoËarstvo viπe od ljudi iz Livanjskog polja i koristili su se veÊim dijelom planine.

Poæutjele kronike svjedoËe da su prije Drugoga svjetskog rata imali na Troglavu i Dinari 58

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500 ljetnih stanova i 135.000 ovaca, a Bosanci 20 stanova s 15.000 ovaca. Pravo ispaπe bilo je predmet dugotrajnih sporova koji su zavrπili tek 1730. godine, kad je na temelju terenskog uviaja 23. tursko-mletaËke graniËne komisije iz 1721. godine provedeno definitivno razgraniËenje i utvrena tzv. MoËenigova linija. VeÊi i niæi dio Dinare pripao je Dalmaciji, a manji i viπi dio Bosni. Otada MoËenigova linija nije mijenjana Ëetvrt tisuÊljeÊa, pa je i danas granica izmeu Hrvatske i BiH. Kao posljedica tog razgraniËenja najviπi vrhovi Troglava i Kameπnice naπli su se na bosanskoj strani. Na povrπno raenim zemljovidima vrh Troglav (1913 m) izgleda kao graniËna kota pa su ga neki dugo smatrali najviπim vrhom u Hrvatskoj, no taj je vrh otprilike jedan kilometar u unutraπnjosti BiH, kao i vrh Kameπnice, Konj (1861 m). Najviπa je toËka na hrvatskom teritoriju vrh Dinare - 1831 metar iznad morske razine.

Pa kako izgleda taj naπ najviπi vrh? VeÊ pri dolasku na Dinaru svakomu Êe se Ëiniti da je njezin vrh po neËemu poseban. I uistinu, stajati na najviπoj toËki u Hrvatskoj, biti za koji trenutak najviπi Ëovjek u svojoj zemlji, osobit je osjeÊaj.

VeÊ i to πto je neki vrh najviπi, obeÊava dobar vidik na sve strane, jer to znaËi da uokolo nema viπih vrhova koji bi se isprijeËili pogledu.

S Dinare se osobito lijepo vidi jezero PeruËa te naselja koja se niæu uz jezero i dræavnu cestu D1 od Karlovca do Splita. Pogled ipak najviπe zaokupljaju planine Svilaja, Promina i Troglav, prvi susjedi Dinare.

Vrh Dinare sastoji se od dvije podjednako visoke glavice, udaljene pedesetak metara.

Jedna od njih oznaËena je bijelim geodetskim stupom, a na drugome stoji pet metara visok metalni kriæ. Na geodetskom stupu priËvrπÊena je kutija sa æigom za planinare koji imaju obiËaj za uspomenu na vrhu utisnuti æig u planinarske

dnevnike. Geodetski stup ujedno sluæi i kao fotografski model jer svaki se posjetitelj æeli fotografirati kraj oznake najviπe kopnene toËke u Hrvatskoj.

Da najviπi vrh Hrvatske i danas stvara neke zabune i nejasnoÊe, najbolje svjedoËi zbrka oko imena najviπeg vrha. Naime, na svim zemljovidima i povijesnim dokumentima vrh planine oznaËen je imenom Dinara, no stanovnici Kijeva i Dinare taj vrh od davnina nazivaju Sinjal, pa tako vrh zapravo ima dva imena.

S obzirom na geografski poloæaj i reljef, na podruËju ispod Dinare mijeπaju se kontinentalna i mediteranska klima. S Jadranskog mora, udaljenoga pedesetak kilometara, osjeÊa se blaga klima, a gorski masiv Dinare uvjetuje oπtru i hladnu zimu.

Kao i druge planine u krπu, Dinara je uglavnom bezvodna i zato se svaka kap vode od davnine osobito cijenila, pogotovo u viπim dijelovima planine. StoËari koji su stoljeÊima vodili blago na ispaπu znali su za sve izvore, stalne i povremene, a kako bi barem malo saËuvali zalihe vode kad ljeti izvori presuπe, ureivali su lokve ili ruje, u kojima se voda zadræavala cijele godine.

Za podnoæje Dinare moæe se Ëak reÊi da je bogato vodom. Pokraj zaseoka KovaËiÊ, danas takoreÊi kninskog predgraa, niz stijenu visoku 22 metra ruπi se slikoviti slap KrËiÊa, Topoljski buk. Kad nakon otapanja snijega korito KrËiÊa nabuja, slap sav prπti od kapljica koje u snaænome mlazu stvaraju zagluπujuÊu buku.

U suπno doba godine korito zamalo presuπi pa se niz stijenu slijeva samo nekoliko curaka, tek toliko da potvrdi kako u drugo doba godine ovdje postoji slap.

Najljepπe ga je posjetiti u proljeÊe, i to u popodnevnim satima kad se na nj, uz mnoπtvo duga, strmoglavi sunce. Lijepo je i zimi kad se stijena niz koju pada slap pretvori u ledeni zastor.

Bistro jezerce pod slapom potvrdit Êe da je voda KrËiÊa Ëista, a dojam o tome dodatno Êe pojaËati ribe koje u njemu plivaju. Tu je i jedno od izvoriπta pitke vode za Knin i okolicu. Ispod slapa nalazi se drveni mostiÊ.

U gornjem dijelu KrËiÊ tvori slikovit kanjon, a upravo ovdje kod KovaËiÊa kanjon prestaje i vodu KrËiÊa ubrzo zatim proguta Krka. VeÊ je Petar ZoraniÊ u romanu Planine pisao da je rijeka Krka Dinarina kÊi.

Dinara je od davnina bila izvoriπte nadahnuÊa pjesnicima, putopiscima i autorima narodnih legendi. Najpoznatija je legenda o Samogradu, stijeni baËvastog oblika na jugozapadnoj strani Dinare. Po toj stijeni, koja pokazuje toËno vrijeme kad su sunËani dani, ravnali su se stanovnici Podinarja kad joπ nije bilo satova, pa i poslije, kad je veÊ postojao poneki sat u okolici. U novije vrijeme, kad svi imaju satove, 60

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ostala je navika pogledati prema Samogradu da se vidi koje je doba dana. Kazaljki nema, ali izvrsno ih zamjenjuju poloæaji osunËanih i sjenovitih strana na Samogradu.

Iako sunce ne izlazi tijekom godine u isto vrijeme, zbog obliænje litice koja baca sjenu na Samograd, ta prirodna sunËana ura na Dinari radi toËno kao πvicarski sat. Sedam je sati ujutro kad sunce grane po Uknovcu, grebenu zapadno od Samograda, a osam kad poËne hvatati vrh Samograda. Devet je sati kad sunce obasja cijelu istoËnu stranu Samograda, deset kad je pola njegove juæne strane obasjano suncem, a druga polovica u sjeni. Kad je toËno podne, na Samogradu i okolnim liticama nema viπe sjena. Kad se kopalo i æelo, sat na Dinari bio je veoma vaæan jer pogledom se na Samograd znalo kad je vrijeme za ruËak, kad je uæina, mala uæina, a kad veËera.

Slici Dinare osobit Ëar daju i ostaci nekadaπnjega stoËarskog æivota. Ovce su za dinarskog Ëovjeka stoljeÊima bile blago u doslovnom smislu rijeËi. Ljeti su na ispaπu pastiri s ovcama iπli u planinu, a zimi se spuπtali niæe, bliæe moru.

Tako je to trajalo stoljeÊima, kad je stvoreno obiËajno pravo izgona blaga na bogatije paπnjake na sada bosanskoj strani Dinare. S jugozapadne strane tim su se poslom u 20. stoljeÊu uglavnom bavili kijevski Glavaπani i ValidæiÊi, no bilo je prije i drugih, osobito prije Drugoga svjetskog rata. Ipak, oko 1985. godine ovaj je kraj gotovo potpuno opustio: mlai su otiπli u grad ili inozemstvo i stoËarstvo je zamrlo. Nedavni rat samo je ubrzao i okonËao proces depopulacije Dinare, a i na samoj Dinari bilo je vojnih djelovanja. Vrijeme Êe pokazati hoÊe li se ljudi ipak moæda vratiti na Dinaru i nastaviti æivot kakav je ovdje postojao tijekom prethodnih stoljeÊa.

Osim Knina, najveÊa naselja u podnoæju Dinare sela su Kijevo, Civljane, Cetina, PolaËa i bosanska Uniπta. Uniπta se nalaze unutar granica BiH, iako je jedina prilazna cesta iz Hrvatske.

U selu Cetina nalaze se ruπevine starohrvatske crkve sv. Spasa, jednoga od najstarijih i najbolje oËuvanih spomenika ranohrvatskoga sakralnoga graditeljstva. To je jednobrodna graevina s troapsidalnim svetiπtem u obliku trolista i masivnim zvonikom na proËelju.

Sagraena je u 9. stoljeÊu, a poslije je srednja apsida poruπena i zamijenjena veÊom. Pri istraæivanju crkve pronaeno je viπe arhitektonskih ulomaka i dijelova kamenog namjeπtaja ukraπenoga pleterom. Najvaæniji je meu njima ulomak grede s natpisom iz kojega se doznaje da ju je dao sagraditi æupan Gastika. Na prostoru oko crkve otkriveno je veliko groblje s viπe od 1100 grobova, iznad kojih su veÊim dijelom bili postavljeni steÊci, njih viπe od 800. Veliko kamenje, pod kojim su kosti davnih junaka,

zbog brojnosti, ali i zbog veliËine smatra se jednim od najvrednijih arheoloπkih lokaliteta sa starohrvatskim nalazima.

Kraljevski grad Knin najveÊe je naselje u podnoæju Dinare i ujedno glavno polaziπte za uspone. Jedina cesta koja se uspinje visoko u njedra planine polazi iz naselja Guge, koje je predgrae Knina. Cesta je zavojita i praπna, a na nekim mjestima strma, pa onomu tko se zaputi automobilom prema Dinari treba popriliËno vozaËkog umijeÊa. Kad se u viπem dijelu cesta suzi, uistinu imate dojam da ste doπli u kraj dalek od stvarnog svijeta.

Cesta se od Suvog polja dalje nastavlja kao nekoliko kolnih putova, kojima se moæe dalje jedino terenskim vozilima. Jedan od putova spuπta se na drugu stranu planine prema Grahovu pa se njime, kaæu, povremeno koriste πverceri kako bi izbjegli graniËne kontrole.

Ovdje se sve zna i iako se vijesti s kraja na kraj planine ne pronose brzo, svaki se dogaaj prepriËava viπe puta. Stanovnici Dinare svakomu tko æeli Ëavrljati s njima prepriËat Êe sve o πvercerima koji su tu proπli u posljednjih nekoliko mjeseci, tko je uhvaÊen, a tko nije.

Mnoge od tih priËa, neznatno nakiÊene pikantnim zanimljivostima, s vremenom prerastaju u prave dinarske legende.

Tko æeli pjeπice na Dinaru, moæe poÊi od planinarskog doma Brezovac, odakle se do vrha moæe stiÊi za dva i pol sata uspona. Moæe se krenuti i iz sela Glavaπ kod Kijeva, no za taj uspon treba pet sati. Iznad sela Glavaπ stara je gradina slikovita oblika, a na pola puta do vrha planinarsko skloniπte Martinova koπara, ureeno u bivπoj ljetnoj pastirskoj nastambi. U selu Glavaπu takoer je jednostavno planinarsko skloniπte, koje su uredili kijevski planinari.

Naπe planine raznolikoπÊu krajolika - od kamenih goleti i slikovitih bjelogoriËnih i crnogoriËnih πuma do prostranih livada i pojasa klekovine te jedinstvenom povezanoπÊu planina i mora - Ëine gorsku Hrvatsku jednim od najslikovitijih podruËja u ovom dijelu Europe. Neke od tih planina veÊ su davno, zbog ljepote, poloæaja, povijesnih obiljeæja ili drugih obiljeæja, npr.

Velebit, Biokovo ili Klek, postale simboli. No dok se europske zemlje diËe najviπim vrhovima kao neupitnim nacionalnim simbolima, kod nas joπ veÊina ljudi ne zna da se najviπi vrh naπe zemlje nalazi na planini Dinari. Imena vrhova poput Grossglocknera, Mont Blanca, Olimpa ili Triglava kao imena nekih proizvoda danas su sinonimi za nazive zemalja u kojima se nalaze.

Ali, mnogi u Hrvatskoj nisu svjesni kako je veliko zanimanje stranaca, koji kao turisti ljeti posjeÊuju naπu obalu, za uspon na Dinaru. U mnogim turistiËkim vodiËima, uz podatke o povrπini, broju stanovnika i druge statistiËke

podatke, nalazi se i podatak da je najviπi vrh Hrvatske visok 1831 metar, a na autokartama lako je zapaziti da se taj vrh nalazi na putu prema moru te svakom imalo planinarski raspoloæenom turistu to je dobar motiv za uspon. Za razliku od prije spomenutih europskih vrhunaca, najviπi vrh Hrvatske razmjerno je lako dostupan. Danas je to jedan od najveÊih neiskoriπtenih turistiËkih potencijala Hrvatske.

Iako je put do prihvaÊanja Dinare kao nacionalnog simbola joπ dug, on nije u zaËecima. Hrvatski su planinari nedugo poslije osloboenja Dinare pokrenuli pohod koji je do danas postao veÊ tradicionalan. Prvih godina taj se pohod odræavao 30. svibnja u povodu Dana dræavnosti, kao moæda najoriginalniji naËin obiljeæavanja hrvatske dræavnosti i na mjestu najprimjerenijem za to: neposredno iznad kraljevskoga grada Knina, simbola nove hrvatske slobode, na najviπem vrhu Hrvatske.

Obnovljen je planinarski dom te se na Dinaru danas ide sve ËeπÊe.

PohodeÊi Dinaru i πtiteÊi njezine ljepote te prenoseÊi iskustva i predstavljajuÊi je, najviπu hrvatsku planinu svakako treba pretvoriti u istinski simbol. Ne samo primatom visine, nego i ljepotom krajolika i πirinom vidika, Dinara to zasluæuje.

Najjednostavniji put za one koji dolaze automobilom jest prilaz iz kninskog zaseoka Guge preko Markova groba, odnosno vojnog poligona Crvena zemlja. Automobil treba ostaviti kod Markova groba, jer cesta je dalje vrlo loπa, te nastaviti dalje pjeπice preko travnatih dolaca Brezovca, Samara i Dulera prema vrhu Dinare.

Uspon od Markova groba do vrha traje pet sati.

Vlasnici terenskih vozila mogu automobilom doÊi do Dulera, odakle se do vrha moæe stiÊi za dva sata hoda.

Uspon na Dinaru najbolje je isplanirati kao dvodnevni izlet u ljetno doba godine, s noÊenjem u nekoj od dinarskih planinarskih kuÊa. Posjetiteljima Dinare na raspolaganju su za noÊenje planinarska kuÊa Brezovac (info: Perica ©imiÊ, 091/89-13-506) te planinarska skloniπta Glavaπ i Martinova koπara (info: Marko GojeviÊ, 091/52-15-285). Sa spomenutim predstavnicima planinarskih druπtava Dinara iz Knina i Sinjal 1831 iz Kijeva zainteresirani mogu dogovoriti prijevoz do Glavaπa i do Brezovca te tako izvesti lijepu turu od Brezovca preko vrha Dinare do Glavaπa ili obratno (7-8 sati hoda).

Sve dodatne informacije o planinarenju po Dinari mogu se dobiti od Hrvatskoga planinarskog saveza na telefon 01/48-24-142. n

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f you have ever found yourself passing through Knin by train or car, your eyes must have wandered, however briefly, from the rails or the road towards the moun-

tain that cuts off the view on the eastern side of the valley. The sheer height of this long, commanding barrier, resembling a huge wall of stone from afar, inspires awe and curiosity.

In wintertime and during much of spring the tips of Dinara are capped with white, or are not even visible as they are shrouded by grey clouds. The tip of this mountain of stone and grass is the highest point in Croatia, the place where Croatian land touches the sky.

The name, Dinara, encompasses several different concepts. Strictly speaking, Dinara is the mountain to the east of Knin and to the north of Lake PeruËa. In the past the mountain was called Adrion oros, and in the oldest maps available to us today it can be found under this unusual name. In a wider sense, Dinara is an 84 km long mountain range consisting of Dinara near Knin, but also of the Troglav and Kameπnica mountains. Curiously, the much lower hill overlooking the point where the Cetina River meets the sea is also called Dinara, but, to avoid confusion, it is always referred to as the Omiπ Dinara.

It is believed that the name Dinara has its roots in the name of the Illyric tribe of Dindari, however, this is not supported by any evidence.

What is known is that the mountain of Dinara gave its name to the entire mountain area from the Slovenian Alps to the ©arske Mountains in Macedonia. The Dinarid range is a typical deep carst area with cragged carst formations, scarce water, sparse vegetation and a rather harsh climate. The range has a northwest south-east orientation, which extends to several parallel mountain chains starting with mountains on the islands and reaching the highest summits in Durmitor and Prokletije. The height and the length of the Dinarids represent an impenetrable barrier for the Mediterranean impact on the inland. Dinara and the Dinarids are of a more recent geological origin - they were formed in what is known as the Alpine orogeny in the Tertiary (Paleogene).

At first, the Dinara Mountain itself doesn’t appear any different from the other mountains in the Dinarid range. Gigantic limestone boulders, vast dry grass meadows and only the occasional trace of human presence is what characterises most carst mountains. Still, every mountain has its own special feature, and so does Dinara.

With Troglav, Kameπnica and the south-east part of the range, Dinara forms a natural boundary between Bosnia and Dalmatia.

However, since there are no distinct, clear-cut cliffs along the mountaintop, the administrative border follows the former pasturelands.

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mountain cattle breeding, and thus used a larger part of the mountain. The old chronicles tell us that before World War 2 there were 500 summer shepherds’ shelters and 135,000 sheep on Troglav and Dinara, and 20 summer shepherds’ shelters with 15,000 sheep on the Bosnian side. The right to pastureland was a bone of contention until 1730, when the 23rd Turk-Venetian Border Commission findings from 1721 were used to set the definite borderline and the so-called Mocenigo Line. The larger and lower part of Dinara became part of Dalmatia and the smaller but higher part was given to Bosnia. The Mocenigo Line has not been changed for 250 years, and to this day it is the border between Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina.

As a result of this demarcation, the highest peaks of Troglav and Kameπnica were left on the Bosnian side. On poorly drawn maps, the

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Troglav peak (1913 m) resembles a border elevation, which is why it was thought to be the highest peak in Croatia for a long time.

However, this peak is located approximately one kilometre into the Bosnian inland, as is the Kameπnica peak Konj (Horse, 1861 m interesting name, don’t you think?). The highest point on the Croatian territory is in fact the Dinara summit - 1831 metres above sea level.

Well, what does this highest peak look like?

Even before the first visit to Dinara, everyone has a feeling that its peak must be somehow special.

To stand on the highest point in Croatia, to be the tallest person in your country, if only for a few moments, is something special indeed.

Being on the highest peak is in itself a guarantee of a nice view all around, because nothing can stand in your way. Dinara offers a particularly beautiful view of Lake PeruËa and of the villages dotting the lake and the state road D1 Karlovac-Split. However, the view is dominated by the mountains Svilaja, Promina and Troglav, Dinara’s first neighbours.

The Dinara peak consists of two equally high boulders, approximately fifty metres apart. One of them is marked by a white geodetic mark and the other bears a five-metre tall cross. On the geodetic mark there is a box containing a stamp for the hikers who like to stamp their hikers’ books when they climb a peak. The mark is also the spot where everybody wants to have their photograph taken, next to the mark of the highest point of land in Croatia.

To this day Croatia’s highest peak is a source of confusion and ambiguity, as is best seen from the mess with its name. In all maps and historic documents the peak is marked as Dinara, but the locals of Kijevo and Dinara have always called it Sinjal, thus leaving the peak with two names.

Due to the geographic location and the landscape, the area below Dinara is where the continental and the Mediterranean climates meet.

The Adriatic Sea, some fifty kilometres away, contributes the mild climate, while the Dinara range dictates severe and cold winters.

Like all carst mountains, Dinara generally lacks water, which is the reason why, since ancient times, every drop of water has been precious, especially so in the upper mountains. Centuries of experience in cattle grazing provided the shepherds with knowledge about where all the water sources were, both permanent and occasional, and, in an attempt to preserve their water reserves, they used to maintain the lokve or ruje, pools in which water would remain throughout the year.

The Dinara foothills, on the other hand, are quite rich in water. Near the village of KovaËiÊ, which has practically become a suburb of Knin, the picturesque KrËiÊ River waterfall, Topoljski Buk, plunges down a 22 m high rock. When the waters of the KrËiÊ swell after the snow thaws, the waterfall glistens with droplets and produces a roaring noise. In the dry season the riverbed is almost dried up, leaving only a few trickles as proof of the waterfall that exists here at other times of the year.

The best time to visit is in the spring, in the afternoon, when the sun adorns the waterfall with many rainbows. The winter view is nice as well, when the rock transforms into a curtain of ice.

The crystal clear lake under the waterfall, with fish swimming in it, bears witness to the clarity of the KrËiÊ waters. This is one of the drinking water sources for Knin and its surroundings.

Under the waterfall is a small wooden bridge.

The upper part of the KrËiÊ flow is a picturesque canyon, which ends in KovaËiÊi, where the KrËiÊ waters are swallowed by the Krka River.

In his novel Planine (Mountains), Petar ZoraniÊ wrote that the Krka is Dinara’s daughter.

Dinara has always been an inspiration for poets, travelogue writers and folk legend authors. The best known legend is the one of Samograd, a barrel-shaped rock on the south-west flanks of Dinara. On sunny days the rock was used by the Podinarje locals to tell time back in the days when there were no clocks or watches, and even afterwards, when a few clocks were indeed owned by the locals. Nowadays, everybody owns a watch but people still often glance up towards the Samograd when they need to tell time. There are no clock hands, but the positioning of the sun and shadows on Samograd successfully replace them.

Although the sun does not come out at the exact same time throughout the year, thanks to a cliff casting its shadow on Samograd, this

natural Dinara sundial never misses a beat.

When the sunbeams break on Uknovac, a ridge to the west of Samograd, it is seven o’clock in the morning, and when it creeps near the tip of Samograd, it is eight. At nine o’clock the sun shines on the whole of the eastern side of Samograd, and at ten o’clock only half of the south side basks in the sun. At noon there are no more shadows on Samograd and the cliffs surrounding it. During the tilling and crop collecting seasons, the Dinara sundial was of the utmost importance because just by glancing at Samograd one could tell whether it was time for lunch, a snack or dinner.

The remains of the cattle breeding lifestyle lend an exceptional charm to Dinara. For centuries sheep have been truly precious to the Dinara locals. In the summer the shepherds would take their sheep to graze in the mountain, and in wintertime they would descend closer to the sea. This went on for centuries, until the custom of taking cattle to the more abundant pastures, on what is today the Bosnian side of Dinara, was introduced. In the 20th century this task was mostly done on the south-western flanks by the Kijevo-based Glavaπani and ValidæiÊ families, but there were many others, especially before World War 2. Nevertheless, around 1985 the region became deserted: young people left for the town or abroad and cattle breeding died out. The last war only quickened and completed the Dinara depopulation process, with military operations taking place on Dinara Mountain itself. Time will show whether people will someday return to Dinara to continue living as they had for centuries.

Apart from the town of Knin, the largest settlements in the Dinara foothills are the villages Kijevo, Civljane, Cetina, PolaËa and the Bosnian Uniπta. Uniπta is part of Bosnia and Herzegovina, although the only existing access road is from Croatia.

The village of Cetina harbours the ruins of the Early Croatian church of Holy Salvation, one of the oldest and best preserved remains of Early Croatian church architecture. It is a single-nave church with a trefoil, three apses sanctuary and a massive belfry in the front.

It was built in the 9th century, and the middle apse was later torn down and replaced by a larger one. Researchers have unveiled several architectural fragments and pieces of stone furniture decorated with an interlacing pattern.

The most significant fragment is one of a beam, bearing an inscription saying that the church was built by the parish priest Gastika. A large gravesite, with more than 1000 graves, was discovered around the church, with more than 800 steÊci stones set above the graves. The big rocks placed on top of the bones of ancient CROATIA AIRLINES

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heroes are so numerous and large that they are considered to be among the most valuable Early Croatian archaeological findings.

The royal town of Knin is the largest settlement in the foothills of Dinara, and also the main starting point for climbing. The only road that leads high up into the mountain departs from Guge, a suburb of Knin. It is a winding dirt road, sometimes quite steep, requiring good driving skills if you want to reach Dinara by car. When the road becomes narrower in its upper part, one truly feels miles away from the real world.

From Suvo Polje the road branches out into several macadam roads that can only be handled by an SUV. One of these roads descends to the other side of the mountain to Grahovo which, rumour has it, is very convenient for smugglers to avoid border controls. Nothing can go unnoticed here and, although word doesn’t travel quickly from one side of the mountain to the other, every event will be told and retold countless times. The Dinara locals will gladly tell you everything about the smugglers seen here in the previous months, about who was caught and who was not. Many such stories, just a tad embellished with juicy details, will in time grow into real Dinara legends.

If you wish to see Dinara on foot you can start from the Brezovac hiking lodge and reach the peak after a two and a half hour climb. You can also depart from the village of Glavaπ near Kijevo, but this climb will take five hours.

The Glavaπ village is dominated by a curiously shaped fort, and halfway to the top you will find the hikers’ shelter Martinova Koπara, in a former shepherds’ summer hut. A simple hikers’ shelter can also be found in Glavaπ itself, opened by the Kijevo hikers.

The diversity of the mountain landscape from desolated rocks and beautiful forests to broad pastures rimmed by juniper groves, as well as the unique interplay between the mountains and the sea - make the Croatian mountain region one of the most picturesque areas in this part of Europe. Some of these mountains, such as Velebit, Biokovo or Klek, are well known for their beauty, location, historic significance or other characteristics.

However, while the other European countries pride themselves on their highest peaks as the ultimate national symbols, in Croatia most people are not even aware of the fact that the highest Croatian peak is the one on Dinara.

Names such as Grossglockner, Mont Blanc, Olympus or Triglav are similar to brand names which act as synonyms for the countries in which they are located.

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in the summer months are so interested in climbing Dinara. Many tourist guides, along with the data on surface size, number of inhabitants and other statistics, also state the fact that the highest peak in Croatia is 1831 metres high and every map shows that the peak is conveniently located near the coast, inviting every hiking tourist to make a detour. Unlike the previously mentioned European summits, Croatia’s highest peak is relatively easily accessible. Today it is one of Croatia’s greatest unexploited tourist potentials.

Although there is still a long way to go before Dinara is adopted as the national symbol, the process has already begun. Not long after the freeing of Dinara, Croatian hikers launched what has become a traditional annual hike. Initially, it took place on 30 May, the Croatian Independence Day, as perhaps the most original way of celebrating Croatian independence at the most appropriate place: just above the royal town of Knin, the symbol of new Croatian freedom, on the highest peak in Croatia. The hikers’ lodge was restored and the Dinara hikes have now become more and more frequent.

Croatia’s highest mountain should be treated as a national symbol by visiting it and protecting its wealth, by passing on your impressions and presenting the mountain to others. Not only because of its height, but also because of its beautiful scenery and endless views; Dinara deserves it.

The easiest way for those arriving by car is to start from the village of Guge via Markov Grob and the Crvena Zemlja military training ground.

Leave the car at Markov Grob, because the road from there is very bad, and continue on foot across the grassy plains of Brezovac, Samar and Duler towards the Dinara peak. The climb from Markov Grob to the summit will take 5 hours. Visitors coming with an SUV can take the vehicle to Duler and then reach the summit after two more hours of hiking.

Preferably, the climb to Dinara should be a two-day trip in the summer months and you can spend the night in one of the hikers’ lodges. Visitors can choose between the Brezovac hikers’ lodge (info: Perica ©imiÊ, 091/89-13-506) and the Glavaπ and Martinova Koπara hikers’ shelters (info: Marko GojeviÊ: 091/52-15-285). The members of the hikers’ associations, Dinara from Knin and Sinjal 1831 from Kijevo, can arrange transportation to Glavaπ and Brezovac. There is a nice tour from Brezovac across the Dinara peak to Glavaπ and back (7-8 hours on foot). You can get all additional information on hiking in Dinara from the Croatian Mountaineering Association at 01/48-24-142. n

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BA©TINA HERITAGE ■

Loπinjski Apoksiomen uplovio je u novo tisuÊljeÊe u punom sjaju mladenaËke ljepote, ali antiËka skulptura joπ Ëeka na stalno boraviπte.

Nakon izloæbe u Zadru, vraÊa se u Zagreb, zatim vjerojatno gostuje u Dubrovniku, a konaËna mu je adresa palaËa Kvarner na Malom Loπinju, koja se preureuje i priprema za njegov stalni dom.

The Apoxyomenos of Loπinj sailed into the new millennium in full splendour of his youthful beauty; the ancient sculpture, however, still does not have a permanent place of residence. After an exhibition in Zadar he will be going back to Zagreb, and thereafter, he will be off once again for a guest appearance in Dubrovnik. His final address will be on the island of Mali Loπinj in Kvarner Palace, which is currently being refurbished and prepared to become his permanent home.

K

ineski novinari stigli u Zadar zbog Apoksiomena ∑ izvijestila je proljetos Hrvatska televizija o dolasku kolega s New Tang Dynasty TV u grad koji je ovoga ljeta u novome Muzeju antiËkog stakla od 30. oæujka do 30. listopada ugostio kip poznatoga starogrËkog atleta. Uza sve πto su mogli vidjeti i doæivjeti na prebogatoj Jadranskoj obali, novinare najveÊe nezavisne kineske TV kuÊe sa sjediπtem u New Yorku, u znanom gradu hrvatske umjetnosti i znanosti osobito je zanimao baπ kip antiËkog sportaπa, a njihovu reportaæu mogli su vidjeti milijuni gledatelja na satelitskim, kabelskim i internetskim kanalima.

Bio je to tek dokaz viπe o osobitom interesu za jedan od najdragocjenijih hrvatskih arheoloπkih nalaza svih vremena, koji je nedavno obogatio ne samo hrvatsku, nego i svjetsku kulturnu baπtinu. Zbog velikog zanimanja hrvatske javnosti, nakon izlaganja u Zagrebu, Firenzi, Osijeku, Rijeci i Splitu, sada se naπao i u Zadru.

Taj senzacionalni nalaz u Maloloπinjskom akvatoriju nedaleko od otoËiÊa Veli Orjul veÊ je od poËetka pratilo veliko znanstveno uzbuenje, jer bilo je jasno da je rijeË ∑ kako reËe ministar kulture mr. Boæo BiπkupiÊ ∑ o remek-djelu antiËke skulpture. Od poËetka Projekt Apoksiomen imao je i znaËajnu meunarodnu dimenziju, pa su se u razliËitim fazama prouËavanja toga podvodnog nalaza, uz hrvatske, ukljuËivali i struËnjaci iz Belgije, Velike Britanije, Italije, Austrije, SAD-a i NjemaËke.

Ostat Êe tajna kako je kip prije dva tisuÊljeÊa dospio u more. Pretpostavlja se da je ispao ili izbaËen s grËkog broda, na putu u neko veÊe srediπte na sjevernom Jadranu, Ravenu, Pulu, moæda Akvileju, ili neki od posjeda izvan gradova, gdje je trebao krasiti kakvu otmjenu antiËku palaËu.

Od osam do sada poznatih varijacija o Apoksiomenu (najpoznatija je ona iz Kunsthistorisches Museuma u BeËu, pronaena 1896. u Efezu, a

Piše/By Davorka Vukov ColiÊ Fotografije/Photos Ivo Pervan

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zatim i mramorni kip u Firenci, bazaltni torzo u Castel Gandolfu i bronËana glava u Fort Worthu u SAD-u), loπinjski je kip najcjelovitiji i najbolje saËuvan. Nakon dvomilenijskog odmaranja na dnu mora, odvojila mu se samo glava od ostatka tijela i nedostajao tek jedan prst na ruci.

Autor je nepoznat, no klasiËna ljepota i delikatnost izrade svjedoËe o vrhunskome majstoru, zbog Ëega ga neki pripisuju slavnom Lizipu iz Sikiona, dvorskom kiparu Aleksandra Velikog.

Akademik Nenad Cambi kip datira u doba oko sredine 4. stoljeÊa prije Krista i zakljuËuje da je Hrvatski ili Loπinjski Apoksimeon najvjerojatnije helenistiËka kopija iz 2. - 1. st. pr. Krista. Prof.

Vincenzo Saladino iz Firenze takoer smatra da je kip moguÊe datirati u doba helenizma, oko 300 godina prije Krista. Njegovo πirenje preko kopija poËelo je u prvom stoljeÊu prije Krista, a tada je najvjerojatnije izraen i ovaj bronËani odljev, zakljuËuje talijanski struËnjak.

Naziv Apoksiomen dolazi od grËke rijeËi apoxyomenos, πto znaËi onaj koji se struæe, a rijeË je o jednoj od uobiËajenih poza u kojoj su stari Grci prikazivali atlete. Vjeæbali su i natjecali se goli, prije toga tijela mazali maslinovim uljem, a poslije zavrπetka posebnim strugaljkama srpolika oblika (grË. strengis, lat. strigilus) skidali ulje, znoj, praπinu i pijesak. Posudica s uljem (grË. aryballos) i strugaljka stoga su postale simboliËnim priborom te vrste sportaπa, a postupak struganja (grË. apoxyesis) omiljeni prikaz atleta u antiËkoj umjetnosti.

GrËkog ljepotana savrπenih proporcija, visokog 192 centimetra i teπkog tristo kilograma, sluËajno je pronaπao neki belgijski turist. U lipnju 1996. godine sportski ronilac i amaterski fotograf Rene Wouters zaronio je pokraj otoËiÊa Velog Orjula i na dubini od 45 metara zapazio jasne obrise goleme skulpture, ukotvljene na pjeπËanom dnu izmeu dviju stijena. Dvije godine poslije nalaz je prijavljen Ministarstvu kulture posredovanjem Veleposlanstva kraljevine Belgije u RH. Prije toga Wouters je o svemu izvijestio struËnjaka za podmorska arheoloπka istraæivanja dr. Roberta Stenuita, direktora Groupe de Recherche Archeologique Sous-marine Post-medievale (GRASP) iz Bruxellesa. Zbog vaænosti nalaza uspostavljen je i kontakt sa struËnjacima neprofitne organizacije Oxford Maritime Ltd. (OML) iz Velike Britanije, inaËe sponzora projekata podmorske arheologije.

Nakon detaljno utvrenih dogovora o izvedbi akcije i financiranju, Ministarstvo kulture RH preuzelo je koordinaciju zahtjevnog projekta, od sustavnoga podmorskoga arheoloπkog istraæivanja i vaenja kipa do njegova restauriranja. Uz pomoÊ Arheoloπkog muzeja u Zadru, ronilaca iz Centra za obuku Specijalne policije iz Malog Loπinja te GRASP-a i OML-a, pokrenuta je akcija vaenja. S pomoÊu pontonske 68

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dizalice tvrtke Sub-mar i u posebno izraenoj posteljici, kip je u travnju 1999. izronio iz mora.

Akcija je trajala pet dana, u njoj je sudjelovalo 14 ronilaca, a nakon vaenja, kip je prevezen u Centar za obuku Specijalne policije u Malom Loπinju i poloæen u bazen u kojemu je ostao viπe od godinu dana do kraja prve faze konzerviranja - desalinizacije.

Druga je faza nastavljena u Hrvatskome restauratorskom zavodu u Zagrebu, gdje su naπi i talijanski struËnjaci viπe od πest godina konzervirali i restaurirali bronËanog atleta. »iπÊenje skulpture pune morskih organizama priraslih uz stijenke obavljalo se u posebno konstruiranome πesterokutnom kavezu, a samo uklanjanje naslaga trajalo je tri godine. Naime, to se Ëinilo iskljuËivo mehaniËki, bez primjene kemijskih sredstava, koristeÊi se samo iglama, skalpelima, mikrodlijetlima i ultrazvuËnim sondama.

Da bi kip mogao stajati, u njega je, prema projektu majstora restauratora Antonija ©erbetiÊa, ugraena osobita potporna konstrukcija, a cijelo vrijeme restauraciju je pratio glavni konzervator Miljenko Domijan.

Nakon godina filigranskog rada, Apoksiomen je napokon bljesnuo pred publikom u svibnju 2006. godine u zagrebaËkome Arheoloπkom muzeju, a godinu poslije struËnomu je timu odano i visoko europsko priznanje za projekt izveden po najviπim struËnim standardima - u konkurenciji od 158 prijava iz 32 zemlje svijeta, hrvatski Apoksiomen osvojio je medalju Europe Nostre u kategoriji konzerviranja∑restauriranja umjetnina, godiπnju nagradu Europske unije za kulturnu baπtinu.

Istodobno s restauriranjem bronËanog atletiËara, poËela su i opseæna podmorska arheoloπka istraæivanja cijelog nalaziπta, u Ëemu se koristila zadnja rijeË suvremene tehnologije. No podvodna pretraga s pomoÊu metalnih i drugih detektora na podruËju od 10.000 Ëetvornih metara oko mjesta nalaza, te pretraga 50.000 Ëetvornih metara podmorja robotskom sondom nije otkrila tragove antiËkog brodoloma. Naen je samo dio rimskoga olovnog sidra, pet ulomaka amfore iz 2. st. prije Krista i podnoæje kipa, po Ëemu se moglo jedino zakljuËiti da je posada zbog nekog razloga, sluËajno ili namjerno, ispustila dragocjeni teret u more, najvjerojatnije zbog olujnog nevremena. Moæda da smanji teret i tako spasi brod u oluji.

Moæda se u naletu senjske bure kip jednostavno odsklizao u more. Moæda je posluæio kao treÊe sidro, jer ondaπnji su brodovi imali tri, a poπto je brod zahvaÊen nevremenom izgubio prva dva, posada se moæda koristila kipom kao sidrom s nadom u spas. Moæda… Svakako, istraæivanje sadræaja unutraπnjosti skulpture pomoglo je struËnjacima u dataciji kipa, a u tome je vaænu ulogu imao antiËki miπ. On se nastanio u nad-

laktici skulpture i opskrbio komadiÊima drva, granËicama, listovima lovora, ostacima razliËitih sjemenki i plodova, pa je analiza zimnice maloga glodavca dokazala da je Apoksiomen u vrijeme ukrcaja na brod veÊ bio antikvitet.

I tako je loπinjski sportaπ uplovio u novo tisuÊljeÊe u punom sjaju mladenaËke ljepote, a sada Ëeka konaËno odrediπte. Nakon Zadra, vraÊa se u Zagreb, zatim vjerojatno gostuje u Dubrovniku, a konaËna mu je adresa palaËa Kvarner na Malom Loπinju, koja se preureuje i priprema za njegov stalni dom. To je odluka Muzejskog vijeÊa i VijeÊa za kulturna dobra RH, donesena nakon opseæne javne polemike, u koju su se posljednjih godina bili ukljuËili mnogi, od otoËana, struËnjaka, politiËkih stranaka, zaviËajnih klubova i turistiËkih djelatnika, do institucija, ustanova i medija.

U oËekivanju najdraæeg otoËana, sa stalnom adresom na Rivi loπinjskih kapetana, Mali Loπinj sada æivi u znaku bronËanog atleta. Svakoga, pa i ovog travnja, organizirali su Dane Apoksiomena, prigodna predavanja, izloæbe i dogaanja.

Ovoga su proljeÊa otoËki gosti mogli na svojoj koæi osjetiti Ëak draæi rimskih kupki i masaæa u loπinjskim hotelima, razgledati izloæbu æivih statua Apoksiomena, nazoËiti prezentacijama projekta muzeja u radu te uæivati u tortama i koktelima koji nose naziv statue, spravljenima specijalno za tu prigodu. Neki se veÊ tuæe zbog poplave jeftinih suvenira i nekontroliranog koriπtenja lika slavnog kipa, ali to je veÊ uobiËajena popratna pojava u procvatu kulturnog turizma.

A kulturni turizam jest jedna od najvaænijih razvojnih grana u svijetu, na Ëemu i Hrvatska gradi svoju strategiju razvoja. Na golemim plakatima za najavu Prvoga nacionalnog dana kulturnog turizma, odræanoga prije tri godine u Rijeci, bile su istaknute tri stvari: glagoljica, prvo slavensko pismo braÊe ∆irila i Metoda, koje je u Hrvatskoj imalo Ëvrsto uporiπte joπ u desetom stoljeÊu, poznate KloviÊeve renesansne minijature i - prikaz novootkrivenoga Apoksiomena. Zametena antiËka skulptura tako je svoj novi æivot poËela u VIP-salonu hrvatskoga kulturnog blaga. n

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hinese journalists arrived in Zadar to see the sculpture of Apoxyomenos.

This is how Croatian Television reported on the arrival of their colleagues from New Tang Dynasty TV. They came to the exhibition in the New Museum of Antiquity Glass which featured the famous sculpture of the Greek athlete. In addition to everything else they could see and experience on the excitingly rich Adriatic coast, the journalists from the largest independent New York-based Chinese TV station were particularly interested in the sculpture of the athlete, which is on show between 30 March and 30 October.

This is what brought them to the Croatian city that is famous for its arts and sciences. Their broadcast could be watched by millions on satellite, cable and internet channels.

Their visit was yet more proof of the extraordinary level of interest in one of the most valuable Croatian archaeological finds of all times, which has recently enriched not only Croatian cultural heritage but global cultural heritage as well.

After exhibitions in Zagreb, Florence, Osijek, Rijeka, and Split the sculpture was brought to Zadar to satisfy the great interest of the Croatian general public. Since the moment the sensational find was first recovered from the sea in the Mali Loπinj aquatorium near the islet of Veli Orjul, it has sparked a great deal of excitement among scientists, as it is clearly a masterpiece of ancient Greek sculptures, as said by Boæo BiπkupiÊ, M.Sc, the Croatian Minister of Culture. Since its early days, the Apoxyomenos project has had a momentous international dimension, which is why experts from Belgium, Great Britain, Italy, Austria, the USA and Germany were involved in different stages of studying the underwater find.

We will never find out how the sculpture ended up at the bottom of the sea two millennia ago.

One should assume that it fell off a Greek vessel or was thrown overboard en route to a large centre on the Adriatic, such as Ravenna, Pula or perhaps Aquileia, or maybe it was destined for a countryside estate where it was supposed to decorate an elegant ancient palace.

Of the eight variations of the Apoxyomenos sculpture known so far (the most famous being the one conserved at Kunsthistorisches Museum in Vienna, excavated in 1896 at the site of Ephesus; followed by the marble sculpture in Firenze; the basalt torso in Castel Gandolf; and the bronze head in Fort Worth in the USA), the Loπinj bronze is the most complete and best preserved. During the two-thousand-year-long rest at the bottom of the sea, his head had separated from his body and he was missing a finger on one hand. The author is unknown, but the classic beauty and the attention to detail certainly prove that the sculpture was made by a great master, possibly Lysippos of Sikyon, the court sculptor of Alexander the Great.

Academician Nenad Cambi has dated the bronze to a period around the mid-4th century B.C., and concluded that the Croatian or Loπinj Apoxyomenos is probably a Hellenistic copy dating back to the second or first century B.C. Professor Vincenzo Saladino from Florence also believes that the bronze could date back to the Hellenistic period, around 300 years B.C. Its copies started spreading in the 1st century B.C., which is probably when this bronze was cast, concluded the Italian expert.

The name Apoxyomenos is a Greek word which means scraper (an athlete who scrapes sweat and dust from his body), and describes one of the familiar poses in which ancient Greeks chose to present their athletes. They were naked when they trained and competed, and before that they would massage olive oil on their bodies. At the end of training or competition, they used a special curved instrument (strengis in Greek or strigilus in Latin) to scrape off oil, dust, sweat and sand from their bodies. An oil jar (Greek aryballos) and a scraper thus symbolized athletes, whereas performing the process of scraping (Greek apoxyesis) was a favourite way of representing athletes in Greek art.

The perfectly proportioned, beautiful Greek male nude, 192 cm tall and weighing 300 kilos, was a chance discovery by a Belgian tourist. In June 1996, scuba diver and amateur photographer, Rene Wouters, was diving by the islet of Veli Orjul when he spotted the clear outlines of a huge sculpture lying on the sandy seabed, stuck between two rocks, at a depth of approximately 45 metres. Two years later, the discovery was reported to the Ministry of Culture through the Embassy of the Kingdom of Belgium in the Republic of Croatia. Prior to that, Wouters had reported the event to an expert on marine archaeological research, Dr. Robert Stenuit, Director of the Groupe de Recherche Archeologique Sous-marine Post-medievale (GRASP) in Brussels. Due to the significance of the finding, contact was also established with experts at the non-profit organization Oxford Maritime Ltd. (OML) in Great Britain, which sponsors maritime archaeology projects.

Once the details of the future project and the funding were agreed, the Ministry of Culture of the Republic of Croatia took charge of the coordination of the demanding project which included a systematic maritime archaeological exploration, the removal of the statue and its restoration. The removal operation involved experts from the Archaeological Museum in Zadar, professional divers from the Special Police Training Centre in Mali Loπinj, GRASP and OML. With the help of a pontoon mounted crane, manufactured by the company Sub-mar, the sculpture surfaced from the depths of the sea in a tailor-made cast in April 1999. The recovery operation took five days and involved the work of as many as 14 divers. After the recovery the sculpture was transported to the Special Police Training Centre in Mali Loπinj and laid to rest there in a pool for over a year, until the end of the first stage of the conservation and desalinization process.

The second stage of the process continued at the Croatian Conservation Institute in Zagreb

where it took Croatian and Italian experts over six years to complete the conservation and restoration of the bronze athlete. The sculpture had been completely covered with a layer of incrustation which is why it had to be thoroughly cleaned. This part of the process took place in a specially constructed hexagon cage where the removal of the organogenic deposits went on for three years. Everything was done mechanically, without applying any chemicals, using only needles, scalpels, micro-chisels and ultrasound probes.

To allow the sculpture to stand upright, master restorer Antonio ©erbetiÊ designed a special construction which was built into the sculpture.

The entire restoration process was supervised by head conservationist Miljenko Domijan.

After years of extensive work, the day finally came for the Apoxyomenos statue to dazzle audiences at Zagreb’s Archaeological Museum in May 2006. A year later, the team of experts had their work recognized with a prestigious European award for projects carried out in compliance with the highest professional standards. Amidst 158 applications from 32 countries worldwide, the Croatian Apoxyomenos won the Europa Nostra medal in the category conservation of works of art, which is an annual prize for cultural heritage from the European Union.

While the bronze athlete was being restored, extensive archaeological research was going on at the discovery site with the help of stateof-the-art technology. However, underwater research using metal and other detectors in an area spanning 10,000 square metres around the place where the bronze had been found and the exploration of about 50,000 square metres of underwater area using a robotic probe did not reveal traces of an ancient shipwreck. All that was found was part of a Roman lead anchor, five fragments of a 2nd century B.C. amphora and the base of the statue, leading to the conclusion that the ship’s crew must have released the precious cargo overboard, either by accident or on purpose, most probably due to stormy weather conditions.

Maybe it was done in order to reduce the weight of the cargo and save the ship during a storm. Maybe the sculpture just fell overboard as the notorious Senj bura gusted against the ship’s flanks. Maybe it was used as a third anchor. At that time ships had three anchors, and since the first two had been lost in the storm, the crew might have used the sculpture as an anchor to save themselves. The list of maybes continues. What is certain is the fact that the exploration of the inside of the sculpture helped the experts determine its age. An ancient mouse played an important role in that!

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The mouse had made the sculpture’s upper arm its home and had filled it with pieces of wood, twigs, laurel leaves and remains of a variety of grains and fruits. The analysis of the little creature’s winter provisions helped the experts prove that the Apoxyomenos was already an antique at the time it was loaded onto the ship.

Thus the Loπinj athlete sailed into the new millennium in full splendour of its youthful beauty and now it is waiting to be introduced to its final residence. After Zadar, he is going back to Zagreb; thereafter, he will probably make a guest appearance in Dubrovnik. His final address will be on Mali Loπinj in Kvarner Palace, which is currently being refurbished and prepared to be his permanent home. The decision was made by the Museum Council and the Council for Cultural Heritage of the Republic of Croatia after an extensive public debate which lasted a few years and involved many people, including the islanders, experts, political parties, local clubs and tourist professionals, as well as institutions, professional organizations and the media.

As they are awaiting the return of the most popular islander, whose permanent address will be at Riva loπinjskih kapetana, the people of Mali Loπinj already live with the bronze athlete. Every April they organize the Days of the Apoxyomenos, featuring lectures, exhibitions and a range of events. Last spring, visitors to the island could treat themselves to Roman baths and massages provided in Loπinj’s hotels; they could view an exhibition of the living Apoxyomenos statues, attend presentations dedicated to the museum project, and delight in cakes and cocktails which were prepared especially for the occasion and were named after the statue. Some people have already started complaining about the island being flooded with cheap souvenirs and about the figure of the famous sculpture being misused and over-exploited, but that is only an expected side effect during the early days of the development of culture tourism.

Culture tourism is indeed one of the fastest growing industries in the world, which has prompted Croatia to build its development strategy around it. The huge poster announcing the First National Day of Culture Tourism, held three years ago in Rijeka, featured three different things: the Glagolitic script, the first Slavic script invented by the brothers Cyril and Methodius, which found a firm stronghold in Croatia way back in the 10th century; famous renaissance miniatures by master KloviÊ; and the newly discovered Apoxyomenos. Thus, the long-lost ancient sculpture started its new life in the VIP-salon of Croatian cultural treasures. n 70

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■ OBALA COAST

Piše/By Anika Rešetar Fotografije/Photos Saša PjaniÊ

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»ovjek se u Selcu osjeÊa ugodno. Sve je nekako baπ s mjerom. I veliËina zgrada, i πetnica duæ mora, i broj kafiÊa i drveÊa i cvijeÊa i objekata za zabavu. A najveÊu ugodu pruæa to πto stanovnici Selca æive svoj æivot s mirom, radiπno i zadovoljno, pa se odmah Êuti da im mjesto nije samo kulisa za zabavu gostiju.

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One feels at home in Selce. Somehow everything fits just right; the size of the buildings, the length of the seaside promenades, the number of cafes, the trees and flowers, and the entertainment facilities. The most pleasant thing of all is the fact that the inhabitants of Selce have that poise that comes from satisfaction with one’s own life and work, so one can tell straight away that the town is not just a ruse, a stage set up to entertain visitors.

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elce je simpatiËno i ne preveliko mjesto, nastalo u æivopisnoj uvali. Klima je vrlo ugodna i izvan sezone, a zbog poloæaja uvale, mjesto je zaπtiÊeno od udara valova. ProsjeËna ljetna temperatura iznosi 25 ºC, a godiπnji je prosjek 14 ºC. Crikvenica je udaljena 5 km, a Rijeka 35 km u smjeru sjevera. Zrak je Ëist, more bistro, kupaliπna sezona traje od svibnja do listopada, a plaæe nose europsku Plavu zastavu.

U mjestu su osnovna πkola, crkva, groblje, poπta, knjiænica i galerija, a stanovnici rade cijele godine. I upravo u tome cjelogodiπnjem radu tajna je njihova blagostanja i osjeÊaja za mjeru. Raditi SelËanima nije teπko, znaju da upravo rad Ëovjeku oblikuje karakter, a to je potvrdio i negdaπnji stanovnik Selca, potomak obitelji LonËariÊ-ArbiniÊ, rekavπi: SelËani se trude. I to oËito veÊ naraπtajima.

Marljivo su radili kao vinogradari i maslinari pod Frankopanima (od 13.st.), a kad Selce i vinodolski posjed preuzimaju knezovi Zrinski 1572. godine, sve se viπe okreÊu trgovini na moru i kopnu.

Radiπnost, upornost i samozatajnost veÊ stoljeÊima krase SelËane. U vrijeme kad se joπ, primjerice, nije ni slutilo da bi se novac mogao zaraivati od turizma, kad nije bilo sve dostupno za tili Ëas, SelËani su nadaleko bili poznati kao graditelji u kamenu, klesari i vrsni zidari. Poduzetnik Josip LonËariÊ tako je sa svojih tridesetak SelËana radio pod vodstvom Austrijanca Negrellija na gradnji Sueskog kanala tijekom πezdesetih godina 19. stoljeÊa. Bili su vrsni majstori mnogo prije nego πto je iskovan pojam globalizacije i struËnost ih je odvela u bijeli svijet. Svijeta se nikad nisu bojali, radili su gdje je trebalo, a novac slali obiteljima u Selce i πkolovali djecu.

Poslije su SelËani radili joπ i na gradnji pruge Banja Luka ∑ Jajce pod carom Franjom Josipom, koji je bio spreman platiti i kilogram zlata za kilogram obraenog kamena, predaja kaæe, samo da pruga krene, a svoj su doprinos dali i na gradnji pruge Zagreb ∑ Varaædin. U Zagorju je tako oformljena i nova grana roda LonËariÊa.

Sin poduzetnika Josipa LonËariÊa, Drago, mogao se onda πkolovati u Grazu, BeËu i Peπti.

Zavrπio je arhitekturu, a neko je vrijeme Ëak radio i kao koreograf u BeËu. No otac Josip umire mu iznenada. Tijekom kuπanja pjenuπca prsnulo je nekoliko boca i ozlijedilo ga tako da vrlo brzo umire. Ostavio je veliko nasljedstvo, no sin Drago nije doπao do njega zbog propasti banke na Suπaku. Spaπenim dijelom gradi obiteljsku kuÊu i hotel ∑ danaπnji hotel Selce.

Hotel je imao 25 soba i 30 parkiraliπnih mjesta. Znamo li da je automobil u to vrijeme bio vrlo skup, jasno nam je kakva je bila struktura

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gostiju ∑ rijeË je bila uglavnom o odvjetnicima, bankarima, prokuristima, javnim biljeænicima, ljekarnicima i lijeËnicima iz Monarhije, a mnogi od njih bili su Dragini kolege sa studija. Kuhinjom je osobno upravljala Dragina æena Lucija, a kuhinja je bila takva da su neki gosti radije ostajali u skromnijim penzionima na noÊenju, samo da bi mogli maziti nepca delicijama lonËariÊevske kuhinje, Ëija su glavna obiljeæja i danas sezonsko, svjeæe, slasno! Na golemoj terasi tik do mora, u Ëijoj je sredini ponosno stajao Ëempres, posluæivali su se mirisni doruËci s najfinijim pecivom i kavom. RuËak bi uvijek bio napravljen od svjeæih i sezonskih namirnica, ali stalno se nastojalo podariti im poseban Ëar.

S veËeri se s terase moglo ispraÊati sunce uz laganu ribu i Ëaπicu vina. Drago je s gostima Ëavrljao na nekome od jezika koje je dobro znao (njemaËki, maarski, talijanski, Ëeπki). A nakon toga, u primjerenoj odjeÊi za veËernji izlazak i slavljenje æivota, plesalo se joπ na jednoj od najpoznatijih jadranskih terasa iznad plaæe u hotelu Rokan (otvoren 1911. godine, danaπnji hotel Slaven). Mnogo poslije tu Êe goste zabavljati svojim πlagerima i Ivo RobiÊ i Ana ©tefok.

Druπtveni æivot bio je na zavidnoj visini. U vrijeme bez danaπnjih medija ljudi su se morali mnogo viπe meusobno druæiti kako bi se zabavili ∑ tijekom cijele godine odræavali su se poznati turniri bridæa, preferansa i πaha, a gospoda su se koristila svakom prigodom za lov u obliænjem Gorskom kotaru. Lovilo se kune πpiljarice, ptice, jelene i medvjede. Drago LonËariÊ, ili, kako su ga zvali, ArbiniÊ, dræao je i mnogo lovaËkih pasa, a bio je poznat i po zbirci oruæja, koja mu je u vrijeme Obznane zaplijenjena i nikad nije bila vraÊena. Hotel je, kao i ostali hoteli u mjestu, nacionaliziran nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata. Do 1948. nosi ime Staljingrad, a poslije je preimenovan u hotel Selce. Sadaπnji je vlasnik Rus. O æivotu malog mjesta, Êudima i zbivanjima, spletkama i zabavama, ljubavima i tugama u svojim je crticama pisao lokalni poπtar, selaËki kroniËar Ivan LonËariÊ PapiÊ (1870. ∑ 1964.). Crtice je pisao Ëakavπtinom, a objavio ih je 1933. g. pod naslovom PaËuharije (Zanimacije). Pisao je i poeziju na standardnome knjiæevnom jeziku, a objavljena zbirka pjesama nosi naslov Pjesma se po moru razlijeva. Uz pisanu grau, malomistanski je enciklopedist ostavio i mnoge likovne radove. »ovjeku imponira vjeπtina kojom je poπtar æivot pretoËio u slike, crtice i poeziju, ali Ëak viπe impresionira mar i trud kojim se njegova ostavπtina Ëuva i obrauje.

U lokalnoj knjiænici knjiæniËari s ponosom i ljubavlju govore o baπtini koju im je ostavio

poπtar PapiÊ i upravo to Ëuvanje i njegovanje baπtine Selcu podaruje mir i sjaj. Znaju tko su, Ëiji su, i da je æivot lak ako je valjano posloæen, pa se trude to znanje prenijeti mlaima bez kuknjave o teπkim vremenima. Znaju da je muka sastavni dio i svakog æivota, ali i svakog vremena, no da se u zajedniπtvu lakπe podnaπa. Jer trajni uspjeh nije moguÊ samo uz trud. Za takvo je πto potrebna sloga, a toga je u Selcu oduvijek bilo, pa i danas je tako.

Sloæiti se oko neËega zajedniËkoga na zajedniËko dobro veliko je umijeÊe, a nakon pojave prvih turista nekolicina je SelËana osnovala Zadrugu morskog kupaliπta i tako je sagraeno prvo drveno kupaliπte. SveËano otvaranje uz glazbu, iÊe i piÊe dogodilo se 4. kolovoza 1894. godine! Blaga klima privukla je i dobrostojeÊe obitelji pa se u poËetku 20.st. grade prve vile, CvetiÊ i PapiÊ, a 1910. sve je oËarala vila Sallda. Malo poslije sagraena je i vila Amabilis (danaπnji hotel Jadranka), te vila Moj mir, poslije nazvana Esperanto. Te su vile, uvijek prekrasno smjeπtene i okruæene pomno planiranim i briæljivo njegovanim vrtovima i perivojima, i danas svjedok æivotnog stila minulih vremena.

Jedna je od najljepπih πetnji ona od Selca prema Crikvenici. Cijelo se vrijeme hoda uz bistro more i πljunËane plaæe, iz daljine kao da maπe i doziva otok Krk, a s desne strane pogledu godi zelenilo bilja i drveÊa njegovanih kuÊa i vila. Zanimljivo je da SelËani veÊ 1911. godine proπloga stoljeÊa osnivaju Druπtvo za ureenje i poljepπanje mjesta. ©ezdesete i sedamdesete godine vrijeme su poËetka velikih ljetnih brojki. Tada se ureuje i autokamp, grade se nove kuÊe i vikendice, otvara se hotel Marin i TuristiËko naselje Jadranka. Ljeti se Selce ne razlikuje od ostalih mjesta na jadranskoj obali, kad mnogi gosti uæivaju u morskim radostima i sportovima.

Ali osobitost je Selca u tome πto u mjestu sa 1500 stanovnika postoji hotel koji radi tijekom cijele godine. RijeË je o hotelu Marina s Ëetiri zvjezdice, koji na svojim web stranicama, uz uobiËajene kategorije, ima i Mudrost dana.

Kako je moguÊe da takav hotel radi cijele godine? Tko su mu gosti? Tajna je i opet u struËnosti i znanju potrebnih vremenu u kojemu æivimo i poduzetniËkoj obitelji koja u svojoj tvornici nudi vrhunski proizvod: zdravlje. Tvornica se zove Terme Selce, a vodi je lijeËniËka obitelj BroziËeviÊ. Sve je poËelo s ordinacijom fizikalne medicine i rehabilitacije sportskih ozljeda (svi vodeÊi sportaπi i timovi lijeËe se i oporavljaju upravo kod dr. BroziËeviÊ, πto je vidljivo i iz knjige dojmova hotela Marina), a s vremenom su doπli joπ i programi izokinetike i wellnessa.

Kao i uvijek, tajna glasi, prepoznaj potrebe vremena i vlastiti talent uËini jedinstvenim

proizvodom. Radi predano i marljivo i trudi se biti bolji iz dana u dan. I ne budi pohlepan.

Kao πto lokalna predaja kaæe: ∆a Êe meni πoldi, meni treba malo toplega poli srca.

I upravo je to tajna Selca: raditi marljivo i sloæno i znati kad treba stati. I odmoriti se.

I obnoviti se u skladu s prirodom. n

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elce is a quaint place nestled in a lively bay, neither too big nor too small. The climate is pleasant even in the tourist off-season, and due to the position of the bay the town is well protected from the force of the waves. The average summer temperature is 25º C, whereas the annual average is a pleasant 14º C. Towards the north are Crikvenica and Rijeka, 5 and 35 kilometres away, respectively. The air is clean, the sea is clear, the swimming season lasts from May to October, and the beaches in Selce bear the European Blue Flag label.

The town has an elementary school, a church, a cemetery, a post office, a library and a gallery. The inhabitants work year round, and this is the secret to their wellbeing and sense of good measure. The locals are hardworking people; they know that work shapes character.

This was confirmed by a former inhabitant of Selce, a descendant of the LonËariÊ-ArbiniÊ family, who said: People of Selce try hard...

Obviously, they have been trying hard for generations. They laboured diligently as wine and olive growers under the rule of the Frankopans (from the 13th century). When Selce and the Vinodol estate were taken over by the Zrinski counts in 1572, they started turning to maritime and inland trade.

Diligence, perseverance and modesty have adorned the population of Selce for centuries.

At the time when tourism was not even considered a possible source of income, when things were not as readily available and easily accessible as they are now, the locals were famous for their stone carving and masonry skills. Entrepreneur Josip LonËariÊ and his 30-men-strong team from Selce worked under the Austrian Negrelli on the construction of the Suez Canal during the 60’s of the 19th century. They were globally reputed as excellent craftsmen, long before the term globalization was even coined. Their skill and mastery took them to building sites all over the world. They were never afraid of travelling afar; they worked wherever work was to be had, and they sent money back to Selce, to support their families and educate their children.

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of gold for a kilo of carved stone just to see the railway up and running. They also contributed to the construction of the Zagreb ∑ Varaædin railway. Some stayed in the area and started a new branch of the LonËariÊ family.

The son of entrepreneur Josip LonËariÊ, Drago, was educated in Graz, Vienna and Pest. He graduated with a degree in architecture and for a while worked as a choreographer in Vienna.

However, his father died suddenly. During a champagne tasting, a few bottles had burst and he was injured by the shattered glass. He died very quickly of his wounds. He left a huge inheritance, but his son Drago could not claim any of it because the bank on Suπak had gone bankrupt. Drago managed to save some of the money and invest it in a family house and a hotel ∑ today’s hotel Selce. The hotel had 25 rooms and 30 parking spaces. Knowing how expensive a car was at the time, we can imagine the kind of patrons who stayed at the hotel; they were mostly lawyers, bankers, managers, public notaries, pharmacists and physicians from all over the Monarchy, many of whom were Drago’s colleagues from school.

The kitchen was supervised by Drago’s wife Lucija, and what a kitchen it was! The quality of the food was so good that many guests preferred to stay in a cheaper accommodation only to be able to treat their palates to the delicacies that came out of LonËariÊ’s kitchen. Three words perfectly described the food then, and they still do today: seasonal, fresh, delicious. Fresh-smelling breakfast treats, featuring the finest bakery products and coffee, were served on the spacious seaside terrace, with a cypress tree proudly standing in its middle. Lunch was always prepared with the freshest of seasonal ingredients, with a special emphasis on presentation and an imaginative approach to cooking.

In the evening, one could sit on the terrace and watch the sun go down, sipping wine and savouring a light meal of fresh fish. Drago was always there, chatting with his guests in one of the many languages he spoke fluently (German, Hungarian, Italian and Czech). Later in the evening, guests put on their elegant evening attire and danced the night away on another famous Adriatic seaside terrace, the one at Rokan hotel (opened in 1911, today’s hotel Slaven). Much later on the guests were entertained by crooner Ivo RobiÊ and Ana ©tefok.

Selce had quite a lively social life. In times before modern media, people were forced to socialize in order to entertain themselves.

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hunting party in nearby Gorski Kotar to hunt for pine martens, birds, deer and bears. Drago LonËariÊ, or ArbiniÊ, as he was known, kept many hunting dogs, and he also had a rich collection of weapons which was confiscated and never returned to him as a result of the Obznana, a decree issued by the government of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenians. Like all the other hotels in Selce, his hotel was also nationalized after World War II. It bore the name Stalingrad until 1948, and was later renamed Selce. Its current owner is a Russian national.

A local postman and village chronicler, Ivan LonËariÊ PapiÊ (1870 ∑ 1964), wrote about life in his little town, about its idiosyncrasies and events, its scheming plots and parties, about loves and sorrows. His short stories were written in the Chakavian variant of Croatian and he published them in 1933 under the title PaËuharije (Pastimes). He also wrote poetry in the standard literary language, and his book of poetry was published under the title Song Spills Over the Sea. In addition to written materials, the little town’s encyclopaedist left many works of fine art. One cannot help but feel in awe of the skill with which the postman transformed real life images into paintings, short stories and poetry, but even more than that, one can be impressed with the dedication and effort invested in preserving his legacy for posterity.

The librarians in the local library do not hide the pride and love when they speak of the legacy bequeathed to them by postman PapiÊ. It is that dedication to preserving his legacy that gives Selce its calm and splendour. They know who they are, who they belong to; they know how easy it is to live if everything is put in its place. That is why they make it their mission to convey that message to younger generations, without complaining too much about hard times. They know that hardship is part of every life and every period of time, and that any hardship is easier to bear if people stick together. Ongoing success would not be possible only with hard work. There is no success without unity, and unity has never been in short supply in Selce. Being able to reach an agreement on something common to all, for the benefit of all, is a true art form.

After the first tourists came to stay in Selce, a group of locals founded the Association of Seaside Baths. That is how the first timber beach was built. It was ceremoniously opened with music, food and drinks on 4 August 1894.

The mild climate lured well-off families, and so the first villas, CvetiÊ and PapiÊ, were built in the early 20th century. The villa Sallda, built in 1910, enchanted everybody. Villa Amabilis

(today’s hotel Jadranka) followed suit, as did villa Moj mir, later renamed Esperanto. These villas, in beautiful locations and surrounded by manicured and well kept gardens and parks, still bear testimony to the lifestyles of afore.

One of the most beautiful promenades is the one leading in the direction of Crikvenica. As you are walking along the clear sea and pebbly beaches, the island of Krk across the sea is a permanent fixture, as if waving and beckoning to you. On the right hand side of the promenade, you can rest your eyes on the greenery of the lush vegetation and trees surrounding the well-kept houses and villas. Interestingly enough, as early as 1911, Selce had its Society for the Beautification of Town. The 60’s and 70’s of last century were the years when sunand-sea seekers descended upon the town in great numbers. As a result, the first camping site was opened, new houses and weekend cottages were built, the hotel Marina and the Jadranka tourist village were opened. The summers in Selce are no different from any other place on the Adriatic coast, when most holidaymakers come to frolic by the sea and indulge in holiday and sporting activities.

Another idiosyncrasy of Selce is the fact that a hotel in this little town, with no more than 1,500 inhabitants, is open 12 months a year.

The hotel is the four-star Marina. In addition to all the basic information usually found on similar web pages, Hotel Marina’s web pages offer Wisdom of the Day. How is it possible for a hotel like that to be open all the time?

Who are its guests? The secret, again, lies in tapping into a market niche in which skills and knowledge are in great demand, and in the entrepreneurial family whose factory offers the most sellable product of all: health. The name of the factory is Terme Selce, run by the BroziËeviÊ family of physicians. It all started with an outpatient’s clinic for physiotherapy and rehabilitation of athletes who sustained sporting injuries (all top athletes and teams are treated and rehabilitated in Dr. BroziËeviÊ’s clinic, as testified by the guest book at the hotel Marina). The basic offer has been gradually expanded to include isokinetics and wellness treatments.

As always, the secret lies in being able to recognize the needs of the time and one’s own talent, and to combine the two into a unique product. Work hard, work diligently and try to be better by the day. And do not be greedy. As a local saying goes: I do not need money, I need something to warm my heart. Therein lies the secret of Selce: work hard, work together, and know when to stop.

When to rest. When to recharge your batteries, in harmony with nature. n

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■ OTOCI ISLANDS

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Piπe/By Dubravka Belas

Fotografije/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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Svima ponuena, pitoma i divlja, bestidna i poetiËna ljepota BraËa, ljepota je boja ∑ bijele od kamena, modre od mora, zelene od loze, bora i Ëesmine, srebrne od kadulje, ruæmarina i masline. Vjetrovi, sol i sunce vjekovima ih nisu uspjeli izblijediti, naprotiv, a tu je ljepotu, opojne mirise i okuse, otoËne vibre i fibre i same otoËane opjevao, verbalno ili likovno, veoma dug niz braËkih umjetnika, pjesnika, kipara, slikara.

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On offer to all, tame and wild, shameless and poetic, the beauty of BraĂ‹ is a beauty of colours ∑ the white of the stone, the navy blue of the sea, the green of the vineyards, pine trees and holly, the silver of the sage, rosemary and olives. Throughout centuries, the winds, salt and the sun have not faded 88

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those colours. Quite the contrary, a number of artists, poets, sculptors and painters from BraË have captivated this beauty, verbally or visually; the intoxicating fragrances and delicious tastes, the island’s vibes and fibres, and the islanders themselves.

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toci su kontinenti u malome. Povezani i odvojeni morem, neovisno o brodovlju koje pristaje ili se iz otoËkih luka otiskuje, na kraju uvijek ostaju sami, bremeniti povijeπÊu, svojim dobrim i loπim vremenima.

Zovu ga otokom od kamena. Pa odakle onda sve te πume bora i crne smrËe u Ëijim Ëvorovima cvrËak cvrËi svoj trohej zaguπljivi, rekao bi Nazor. Sluπahu ga, dalje Êe, kolonisti Grci, starosjedioci Iliri, osvajaËi Rimljani, teæaci Hrvati, trgovci MleËiÊi, znahu za nj gusari Saraceni i Omiπani u uvalama morskim, ovËari Neretljani gore na visoravni. Za nj je to glas braËkog kamena, zemlje i biljaka. Glas gomila, jedinstvenih spomenika mukotrpnom ljudskom radu, sloæenih od neobraena kamena, gomila πto su crvenu zemlju natopljenu znojem ostavljali slobodnom za teæanje ∑ glas je njihov pjesniku hram, podignut trudom i mukom, strpljivo, kamen po kamen, a nisu mu ni grobnice ni obrane, nego oltari za potrebe duπa koje teæe suncu i zvijezdama. Za kipara RendiÊa, pjesma mediteranskih cikada tek je ritam vilinskih pjesama.

Ako je od kamena, odakle sve te viπnje, narovi i maginje i groæe, sve te bobulje kojima se hrane ptice, ali i notorne braËke vile i vilenjaci, zmajevi πto Ëuvaju nepronaeno grËko blago, sve pod neizmjernim nebom s toliko zvijezda da se noÊu stope u jednu veliku svjetlost porubljenu tamom.

Odakle onda svi ti Ëempresi i naranËe i smokve, i slatki rogaËi koji daju najbolju sjenu. Odakle brnistre, tako zlatne da se nadmeÊu sa Suncem, pa divlja kadulja, ruæmarin i smilje, pa kapar i koromaË, bosiljak i maæuran, metvica i kaloper, svi ti mirisi rasuti po paπnjacima na kojima se bijele ovce i koze i luta poneka divlja mula. Nema toga parfemskog nosa koji bi bio dostojan sastaviti boæanstvenu braËku smjesu, naglaπenu notama soli i joda.

Zovu ga otokom loze, a opet se od zapuπtenih vinograda pjesniku Ëini da vidi umrle teæake ∑

od starih kvrga i pruÊa πto vire iz zemlje, Ëini mu se da su glave, ramena i prsti πto bi da izau iz zemlje i late se opet maπklina i motike.

Zovu ga otokom bez kruha i vode, a odakle se onda UjeviÊeva gusta kiπa slijeva niz stakla, a zvuk mu je njezin sladak sluhu kao Ëehulja groæa usnicama. Nazoru pak srce raste s tog dara koji dolazi s visina i hvali otoku πto ga je nauËio æeati i æudjeti za neËim Ëitav svoj æivot. Kaπtelanu je BraË prekomora otok djetinjskih slutnja i maπtanja, o Ëije æale udara more i vrijeme. Svaki san, zakljuËit Êe, vodi u stvarnost.

Kao golemi ga brod, ukotvljen u najljepπem prostoru srednjodalmatinskog arhipelaga, na utoku kopnenih i raskriæju morskih putova, vidi Petar ©imunoviÊ, jezikoslovac, onomastiËar i dijalektolog, ponajbolji braËki znalac. I doista, svaki susret s otokom svejednako oduzima dah, bez obzira na to vraÊate li mu se ili ga prvi put sreÊete. Poput Rexa, onoga raskoπno osvijetljenoga Fellinijevog transatlantika koji izranja iz magle, a Ëitav ga Rimini, ukrcan u male barke, satima Ëeka da bi, nestvaran i neizmjeran, proπao pokraj njih u jednom trenu.

Nema, na sreÊu, tog vjetra, ma koliko brijala bura, lizala kantune i meÊala u portune, kako piπe ©tambuk, nema, dakle, te bure, toga silnog vjetra koji bi mogao uËiniti da braËki brod otplovi. A nema ni magle. Otok je to meu najsunËanijima na Jadranu, s onim ponajboljim od mediteranske klime ∑ toplim ljetima i blagim i kratkim zimama. Kiπe su ljeti oskudne, ali su zimi, u unutraπnjosti otoka, i dvostruko obilnije nego uz more.

Prvi se put BraË spominje u 4. stoljeÊu prije Krista. GrËki ga zemljopisac Scylax naziva Krateiai. Pretpostavlja se da mu danaπnje ime potjeËe od ilirskog brentos, πto znaËi jelen, jer i Grci su ga poslije zvali Elaphusom, po grËkom imenu za jelena. Prema legendi, poznati se trojanski ratnik Antenor nastanio na otoku Brachiji.

Rimljani ga zovu Bretijom ili Brattijom, a u 9.

ga stoljeÊu, piπuÊi o svome carstvu, bizantski car Konstantin Porfirogenet naziva ga Barzo, tvrdeÊi da je jedan od dva najljepπa i najplodnija jadranska otoka.

VeÊ je iz mnogih imena vidljivo kako su na otoku svoj trag ostavili mnogi narodi i kulture.

Grci su svoje artefakte ostavili u ViËjoj luci kod LoæiπÊa. Pretpostavlja se da je ovdje bila jedna od luka na trgovinskoj ruti s Ilirima. Rimljani su, na raskriæju morskih putova izmeu sjevera, juga, Issae i Salone, osnovali prve kamenolome. Oni su obiljeæili otok pristaniπtima u Splitskoj, Bolu, LovreËini, ostavili za sobom svoje cisterne i ville rusticae, mnoga pojila za stoku izdubena u æivoj stijeni. Kad su barbarska plemena Avara i Slavena u 7. stoljeÊu razorila Salonu, njezini su se stanovnici povukli na otok smatrajuÊi ga sigurnijim utoËiπtem. Poslije su ga naselili poljiËki i neretvanski Hrvati izbjegli pred turskim osvajaËima i prevladali romanizirane Ilire.

Dugo je zatim Bizant dræao istoËnu obalu Jadrana, svoj limes maritimus, na Ëijemu je vanjskom rubu leæao BraË. Kad je u 8. stoljeÊu franaËki car Karlo Veliki osvojio ove krajeve, poËelo je i pokrπtavanje Hrvata. U 11. stoljeÊu potpao je prvi put pod Mletke, za vladavine kralja Petra Kreπmira IV. napokon je kratko u hrvatskom kraljevstvu, poslije pripojen Ugarskoj. Ostavili su mu ipak politiËku samostalnost i povlasticu samouprave - komune na Ëijemu je Ëelu bio knez izabran meu lokalnim plemstvom. Zbog napada omiπkih gusara, BraËani su zatraæili zaπtitu Mletaka ∑ oni su otjerali gusare, ali zato su ubrzo otokom bahato, gotovo Ëetiri stoljeÊa, vladali mletaËki namjesnici, providuri, guπeÊi mu samoupravu. Smjenjivali su se tako gospodari. Padom Venecije, zavladala je Austrija. Poæunskim mirom BraË je potpao pod naprednu francusku reformistiËku upravu ∑ ukinuto je plemstvo, ureena naselja, sagraene ceste, uvedena gospodarska reforma i otvorene πkole na hrvatskom jeziku.

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Na manje od godinu dana otok su zauzeli Rusi, ubrzo se ponovno vratili Francuzi, ali uznemiravali su ih engleski pljaËkaπi. Padom Napoleona, BraË je opet postao austrijskim. U poËetku Drugoga svjetskog rata, pao je pod talijansku okupaciju.

Slijede teπke godine, masovni pokret otpora, ali i straπna faπistiËka odmazda. Kratko su ga zaposjeli i Nijemci, neposredno prije nego πto su ga oslobodili partizani i engleski saveznici.

SljedeÊih pedesetak godina bio je mir, sve do 1991., kad se pred otokom usidre ratni brodovi otuene jugoslavenske vojske, prijeteÊi preko kanala Splitu. U studenome te godine bombardiran je zapadni dio BraËa, ali i toj sili ubrzo proe rok.

Izmjenjivali su se tako osvajaËi i osloboditelji, pljaËkaπi i prosvjetitelji, smjenjivale vlasti i dræave i svi su ostavili svoj trag, svoj otisak, svaki za pamÊenje, neki po dobru, neki po zlu.

Otisak su ostavili i oni koji su s otoka otiπli u potragu za boljim æivotom, preπavπi oceane, u obje Amerike, ponajviπe Juænu, ali i u Australiju i Novi Zeland, pa ih poslije Ëitave naraπtaje morila Ëeænja za otokom, silnim daljinama umnoæeno domotuæje.

Stanovniπtvo se isprva bavilo stoËarstvom, πumarstvom, poljodjelstvom, ribarstvom, kamenarstvom i trgovinom. Najstarije je ipak bilo kamenarstvo, zbog tradicije obrade kamena joπ od rimskih vremena te prebogatih nalaziπta kvalitetnoga vapnenca. Kamen se iz mnogih tadaπnjih kamenoloma, koji su se prostirali i dvije milje unaokolo, dopremao u luku Splitska, a odatle brodovljem, posebno graenima naves lapidariae, nosivosti i po nekoliko stotina tona, odvozio na gradiliπta u Italiju ili u Split i Salonu, pa tako i na gradiliπte velebne i arhitektonski jedinstvene Dioklecijanove palaËe.

Bijeli je braËki vapnenac privukao slavne kasnogotiËke i renesansne kipare i graditelje, Nikolu Firentinca, Jurja Dalmatinca i njegova uËenika Andriju Aleπija, koji su svoja djela rasuli svuda po otoku. U antiËkim kamenolomima iznad Splitske ostali su mnogi rimski tragovi, kao i na dnu luke na koje bi kameni blokovi pali prilikom ukrcaja. U starim su kamenolomima dojmljivi paπarini ∑ tragovi rimskih tehnika vaenja kamena ∑ ruËno isklesani kanali duboki i po pet metara, uski, dovoljni tek za prolaz i zamah snaæne ruke kamenara, uz pomoÊ kojih bi se od stijene odvajali veliki blokovi.

Pronaeni su i mnogi klesarski alati, nedovrπeni stupovi i isklesani kapiteli, fibule i ærtvenici. Kamenolomi su bili posveÊeni polubogu i mitskom junaku Heraklu, pa je u kâvi Rasohe u æivoj stijeni vidljiv grubo uklesan njegov reljefni prikaz, a u kamenolomu Plate podignut ærtvenik.

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je i danas neizostavan u graditeljskoj tradiciji cijele primorske i otoËke Hrvatske. On jednako oËarava i kad je ugraen u raskoπne braËke plemiÊke palaËe ili u skromne teæaËke i ribarske kuÊe; uzidan u javne zgrade ili sakralne graevine, od antiËkih svetiπta, preko ljupkih starokrπÊanskih bazilika do renesansnih i baroknih crkava.

Uz kamenarstvo, od antiËkih je vremena na otoku razvijeno stoËarstvo, osobito kozarstvo i ovËarstvo. Joπ u prvom stoljeÊu Plinije Stariji piπe kako je BraË poznat po kozama...capris laudata Brattia. U 19. stoljeÊu veliku vaænost dobiva vinogradarstvo, osobito u drugoj polovici stoljeÊa kad bolest zahvaÊa talijanske i francuske vinograde, a braËko se vino, plavac i bijela vugava, izvoze u te dvije najjaËe vinarske zemlje. Procvat traje sve do πirenja filoksere u braËke vinogade, a s pojavom parobroda koji istiskuju mnoge braËke jedrenjake, zavrπilo se razdoblje blagostanja i potaknuo veliki val iseljavanja.

Da je druπtveni æivot na BraËu bio dobro organiziran i u davna vremena, svjedoËi saËuvani BraËki statut, skup pisanih odredaba iz 1305. godine, kojima se regulira æivot na otoku.

O ureenosti javnog æivota svjedoËi i Povaljska listina, posjedovna isprava, zapravo prijepis kartulara benediktinskoga Samostana sv. Ivana Krstitelja u Povljima na otoku BraËu. Napisana je na pergamentu bosanËicom, hrvatskom Êirilicom, u prosincu 1250. godine. »uva se u Æupnom uredu u PuËiπÊima na BraËu, kao jedan od najstarijih hrvatskih jeziËnih i kulturnopovijesnih spomenika.

Najstarije mjesto na otoku jest ©krip u unutraπnjosti, Ëiji se vijek mjeri trima tisuÊama godina.

Smjeπten u unutraπnjosti otoka, svojevrstan je grad-muzej, sa svojim ilirskim gomilama, najveÊim otoËkim rimskim grobljem, sarkofazima, mauzolejom i ærtvenicima, starohrvatskom predromaniËkom crkvicom ∑ skromnom trobrodnom bazilikom i dvorcem. KuÊe pokrivene obijeljenim kamenim ploËama tipiËan su primjer otoËkoga ruralnoga graditeljstva. U 16. stoljeÊu na temeljima je tzv. Kiklopskih zidina iz 1500. godine prije Krista sagraen obrambeni toranj u kojemu se danas nalazi dio ZaviËajnog muzeja otoka, smjeπtenoga u blizini. Muzej Ëuva mnoge izloπke, od antiËkih ærtvenika, starokrπÊanskih reljefa do maloga etnoloπkog blaga - svakodnevnih uporabnih predmeta, poljoprivrednih alata, namjeπtaja i slika.

Bol je najstarije obalno mjesto na juænoj strani otoka. Tragovi villae rusticae i rimske piscine, reljefi i nadgrobne stele upozoravaju da je bilo naseljeno u antici. Dominikanci u 15. stoljeÊu osnivaju svoju zajednicu, grade crkvu i samostan Ëiji muzej posjeduje zbirke pretpovijesne i antiËke podmorske arheologije, misna ruha

i liturgijske predmete. Tu je i zanimljiva zbirka malih predmeta iz πpilje KopaËina, starih nekoliko tisuÊa godina, zatim pinakoteka, numizmatiËka zbirka, inkunabule, starohrvatski pleter sa zabata iz 9. stoljeÊa. Ovdje se Ëuva i Tintorettova oltarska pala Madona s djetetom iz 1563. godine.

Barokna crkva Gospe od Karmela diËi se kipom Anela s Veronikinim rupcem, koji potjeËe iz ranije crkve na Ëijim je temeljima sagraena. Jedna od najstarijih crkvica na otoku, posveÊena sv. Ivanu Krstitelju, datira u 9. stoljeÊe, a zdanje s freskama, koje postoji ispod danaπnje crkve, seæe u 6. stoljeÊe. U renesansno-baroknoj palaËi iz 17. stoljeÊa, na obali, nalazi se galerija nazvana po cijenjenome braËkome kiparu, velikom animalistu DeπkoviÊu, s bogatim postavom hrvatske suvremene umjetnosti.

Nekad selo vinogradara, pomoraca i ribara, danas je izrazito turistiËki usmjereno, ponajprije zbog Zlatnog rata, pola kilometra dugaËke plaæe, jeziËca od finog πljunka nataloæenoga na podmorskome grebenu, isplaæenome daleko u safirno more. Zovu ga plaæom koja hoda, jer vjetrovi i struje oblikuju mu istureni vrπak pa je zimi okrenut prema zapadu, a ljeti prema istoku. Jedna je njegova strana zato uvijek u zavjetrini, a oblik mu iznutra prati sjenovita borova πuma, u kojoj uvijek istiha πumi lahor hladeÊi i uspavljujuÊi usred vruÊih ljetnih dana.

Naete li na toj Ëudesnoj plaæi kamen sreÊe, zapravo kapicu morskog puæa, Astrae rugosae, koju povremeno izbacuje more, znak je da Êete se na to mjesto svakako vratiti. Ali vratili biste se ionako… U morskom kanalu izmeu BraËa i Hvara idealni su uvjeti za jedrenje na dasci, pa je Bol i nadaleko poznato odrediπte za daskaπe. Ti se tihi i brzi πareni opnokrilci ljeti doslovno roje na puËini izmeu brojnih bolskih plaæa.

Ovdje moæete uæivati i u adrenalinskome vodenom sportu parasailingu ∑ spoju padobranstva, paraglajdinga i jedrenja, u ronjenju, voænjama kajakom, zmajarenju s Vidove gore; lovom u unutraπnjim dijelovima otoka; planinarskim izletima do Dragonjine πpilje i pustinje Blaca; do antiËkih kamenoloma pod ©kripom, duæ urednih voÊnjaka i maslinika. Na velikome teniskom stadionu s viπe od 1800 sjedala odræavaju se meunarodni æenski turniri, a ima i viπe teniskih centara s kvalitetnim teniskim πkolama.

Iznad Bola uzvisuje se Vidova gora (778 m), s vrhom Sutvid (Sv. Vid, Svevid) odakle se, kaæu, sve vidi. To je zaπtiÊeni krajolik s najviπim vrhom meu svim jadranskim otocima. Park πuma na Vidovoj gori smjenjuje se s kamenjarom i makijom, uz put rastu kadulja i pelin, ruæmarin i vrijes, a Ëitavo je podruËje raj za beraËe

gljiva, πparoga, skupljaËe puæeva i ljekovitoga bilja. Za one kojima je dvosatna planinarska staza od Bola prezahtjevna, do vidikovca, ali i do konobe u planinarskom domu, koja nudi braËku janjetinu na raænju, fini prπut, domaÊi sir, vitalac i druge osobitosti braËke gastronomije, postoji i prilaz cestom. Ne treba ni spominjati da je Vidova gora mjesto od izbora za letaËe ∑ jedriliËare na vjetru, zmajare i paraglajdere koji sa zanimanjem, moæda i zaviπÊu, promatraju sporo kruæenje otoËkih grabljivica - πkanjaca miπara i njihovo lebdenje nepomiËnih krila u termiËkim stupovima. Nedaleko od vrha Vidove gore nalazi se i nekoliko πpilja, od kojih za ViËju (vjeπtiËju) jamu narod vjeruje da zavrπava u ViËjoj luci na obali.

Jedan od najljepπih izleta iz Bola plovidba je barkom do male plaæe u uvali, odakle se hodom stiæe do pustinje Blaca, eremitskog naselja koje su osnovali sveÊenici glagoljaπi, prebjezi iz Poljica pred turskom opasnoπÊu.

StoljeÊima su radom i strpljenjem oblikovali kamenjar u polje i pustu stijenu u naselje. Pastirske su kuÊe s vremenom pretvorili u gorski grad uzidan u stijene. Godine 1963., smrÊu posljednjega poljiËkog sveÊenika, don Nikole MiliËeviÊa, ml., uËitelja, matematiËara i astronoma, okonËali su se ti poljiËki korijeni.

Danas su Blaca otvorena posjetiteljima koje redom iznenadi ne samo arhitektonska ljepota ove pustinje sraπtene s kamenom, nego i neoËekivana profinjenost unutraπnjeg ureenja. Od rustikalne kuhinje s prostranim kominom, pribora za ognjiπte, pËelarstvo i vinogradarstvo, do πkole i knjiænice s osam tisuÊa knjiga, zbirkom starinskog oruæja, ali i glasovirom i violinom, te opservatorija s teleskopima. Tu je sat s utezima nabavljen u Londonu u 17. stoljeÊu, mehaniËki gramofon s perforiranim kartonskim ploËama, ruËna tiskara i mnogi crkveni predmeti, kaleæi, svijeÊnjaci, slike...

Zmajevu πpilju iznad Murvice u 15. su stoljeÊu, uz dopuπtenje braËkoga kneza, nastanili prvi izbjegli poljiËki sveÊenici glagoljaπi, jednako kao i druge pustinje u blizini. Stijene u unutraπnjosti πpilje prekrivene su dubokim reljefima s gotovo fantazmagoriËnim prikazima borbe dobra i zla, ali i onim istim motivom iz bolske crkvice, Anela s Veronikinim rupcem. Ovi su reljefi svojevrsna meuigra izmeu krπÊanske posveÊenosti Bogu i praprostora mistiËne energije poganskih vjerovanja i πumskih vila, koje joπ Ëuvaju ulaz u πpilju. Svoje ime peÊina je dobila po reljefu velikog zmaja Ëiji se rep gubi negdje u podzemnom kamenom svijetu.

Negdje duboko u podzemnom svijetu joπ æivi jednooki div Orkomarin, a æivi su i mitovi o vukodlacima, vjeπticama i zlokobnim morelama.

Vile se, ustvrdit Êe poneki domaÊi, okupljaju na joπ nekoliko mjesta ∑Trolokvama, trima pojilima na kojima, uz ovce i poneko manje stado konja, vodu piju i braËke nimfe. Drugo je mistiËno mjesto, okupljaliπte vilenjaka, tzv. KolaË od dolomita, zaπtiÊeni spomenik prirode, neobiËan uspravljeni kameni prsten blizu NereæiπÊa, nazvan po tvrdom suhom pecivu baπkotu, na Ëiji oblik podsjeÊa. Stijena visoka dvanaestak metara sastoji se od dva luka koja su na vrhu spojena, no joπ ima ljudi koji se sjeÊaju da su prije bili odvojeni.

Govori se da KolaË ima Ëudesnu moÊ i da osobito utjeËe na ljude koji prou ispod njegova luka.

U blizini su NereæiπÊa, nekadaπnje upravno, crkveno i gospodarsko srediπte, gdje su od 10. stoljeÊa stolovali braËki kneæevi. Blizu su i ostaci rimskog mauzoleja te slabo oËuvane, ali svejedno osobite graevine i neke od brojnih na BraËu, stare vjetrenjaËe ∑ mlina na Glavici.

Zanimljivost je i zaπtiÊeni mali bor koji raste na krovu crkvice u NereæiπÊima.

Sredinom proπlog stoljeÊa poljoprivredna zadruga u NereæiπÊima otvorila je mali industrijski pogon za proizvodnju prvih ævakaÊih guma u ovom dijelu Europe. Mnoge postarije Hrvate ime NereæiπÊa podsjetit Êe na tvrde kvadratiÊe, pojedinaËno umotane u papir, koje su tada, joπ kao osnovci, kupovali na komad i s priliËnim naporom ævakali, oponaπajuÊi svoje vrπnjake iz ameriËkih filmova. U opÊem siromaπtvu, πto poratnom, πto socijalistiËkom, te su prve ævakaÊe gume govorile o nekome drugome svijetu izvan granica koje su se tek poËele otvarati. Iako je proizvodnja obustavljena u poËetku rata 1991., danas je opet oæivjela, dopunjena bombonima i lizalicama. Otvorena su nova radna mjesta, a NereæiπÊanima je zacijelo drago ponovno vidjeti kamione koji, natovareni proizvodima njihovih vrijednih ruku, opet odlaze na kopno razveseljavati sve koji vole njihove slatkiπe.

Na istoËnome dijelu BraËa, trajektnom linijom povezan s Makarskom, na obali nalazi se Sumartin, mirno mjesto, najmlae na BraËu, s omanjim brodogradiliπtem, jednim od posljednjih na Jadranu, koje izrauje tradicionalne drvene barke. Sumartinjani se s ponosom spominju svog sugraanina Marija PuratiÊa, koji je 1955. izumio i konstruirao tzv. Power Block, PuratiÊevo vitlo za izvlaËenje ribarskih mreæa.

Primjena njegova kolotura revolucionarno je izmijenila profesionalno ribarenje u Ëitavom svijetu, omoguÊila trostruki ulov uz triput manju posadu, oslobodivπi ribare mukotrpnoga ruËnog izvlaËenja mreæa. Zanimljivo je da se jedino u Sumartinu, za razliku od Ëakavskog ostatka otoka, govori πtokavskim narjeËjem.

Selca, kilometar udaljena od obale, stotinjak

metara nad morem, spominju se veÊ 1184. kao pastirsko naselje. Okruæena kamenom, postaju poslije srediπtem kamenarstva na otoku. Selca su miran i ubav gradiÊ, s lijepim trgom i crkvom u kojoj se nalazi MeπtroviÊev Kip Srca Isusova.

U Selcima se svakoga ljeta odræava manifestacija Croatia rediviva, festival hrvatskoga pjesniπtva, koji je 1991. godine utemeljio pjesnik, lijeËnik i diplomat Drago ©tambuk, trudeÊi se poticati pjesniπtvo u hrvatskoj trojeziËnosti - Ëakavπtini, kajkavπtini i πtokavπtini. Prvotno drukËiji termin odræavanja premjeπten je, u Ëast spomena na ærtve talijanskih faπista, na 9. kolovoza, dan kad su talijanski faπisti, osim Selca, palili i druga naselja na otoku. Umjesto lovorovim vijencem, pjesnici se u Selcima krune vijencem od masline. OvjenËani pjesnik tako nije laureat, nego poeta oliveatus, a osobita mu se Ëast, u skladu s ovdaπnjom kamenarskom i klesarskom tradicijom, iskazuje klesanjem njegova imena, uz odabrane stihove, na kamene ploËe Zida od poezije, Zida od versi, na srediπnjem trgu.

Na sjevernoj strani BraËa, nasuprot Splitu na kopnu, smjestio se Supetar, najveÊe mjesto na BraËu i njegovo gospodarsko, kulturno i turistiËko srediπte. Okruæen borovom πumom, s kamenitim i πljunËanim plaæama i mnogim znamenitostima, jedno je od glavnih turistiËkih odrediπta na hrvatskoj obali Jadrana. ©pilja KopaËina arheoloπko je nalaziπte iz kamenog doba, najstarija poznata Ëovjekova nastamba u Dalmaciji, koja je, prema procjenama, postojala Ëak osam tisuÊa godina prije Krista. Kao i drugdje na otoku, najËeπÊe u maslinicima i vinogradima, uokolo Supetra razasute su brojne bunje, okrugle poljske kuÊice od kamena s kupolastim krovovima.

PuËiπÊa su drugo mjesto po veliËini na BraËu.

Skrivena su duboko u zaπtiÊenoj uvali koja se na dnu raËva na sjevernoj obali otoka. Zbog trajne opasnosti s mora, umjesto renesansnih palaËa, PuËiπÊani grade 13 obrambenih kula, kaπtila s tornjevima, od kojih su neki i danas saËuvani. Kamen je srediπnja toËka proπlosti i sadaπnjosti PuËiπÊa. Slavni su renesansni kamenoklesari djelovali baπ u PuËiπÊima i nije neobiËno da upravo ovdje ima najviπe sakralnih graevina na otoku. Danas je ovdje jedina braËka kamenoklesarska πkola. Nedaleko od PuËiπÊa u LovreËini, dubokoj uvali s lijepom pjeπËanom plaæom, bogato je arheoloπko nalaziπte s ostacima ranokrπÊanske crkve i krsnim zdencem kriænog oblika.

Legenda za Milnu kaæe da je ime dobila zbog brodova jer u njezinoj su se zaπtiÊenoj luci od nevremena sklanjali mnogi mletaËki brodovi.

Prozvahu je zato valle di mile navi, uvalom tisuÊu brodova. Pravo porijeklo imena ipak je CROATIA AIRLINES

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vjerojatnije staroslavenska rijeË mil, πto znaËi pijesak. Od davnina sigurno sidriπte u duboko urezanoj uvali u ovoj je prirodno najzaπtiÊenijoj otoËkoj luci iskoriπteno za gradnju jedne od najljepπih marina na Jadranu. Milna ima i svoju brodogradiliπnu tradiciju ∑ i danas u njoj djeluje manje brodogradiliπte, a nekad najËeπÊi drveni brod na Jadranu, bracera, sagraen je upravo u Milni.

Niæu se tako braËka naselja, dragulji raskoπne braËke ogrlice: Mirca, Postira, Sutivan, Splitska, Povlja, Gornji i Donji Humac, LoæiπÊa, Praænica, Dol, sve do broja 22, koliko ih je ukupno na otoku.

Sva su razliËita na svoj naËin, sva imaju samo svoje povijesne oæiljke, slavlja i tuge, samo svoja vaæna mjesta. Prostora da ih se opiπe viπe nije preostalo, ostaje da sami posjetite nebrojene ljudskom rukom sazdane spomenike, ali i one koje za tom vrstom obilja nimalo ne zaostaju ∑ braËke prirodne ljepote i znamenitosti. Bez obzira na to uæivate li u vrevi priobalnih mjesta ili u spokoju i svetoj tiπini skladnih srednjovjekovnih naselja u unutraπnjosti, na BraËu Êete zacijelo naÊi svoje omiljeno mjesto. Plivajte, ronite, πeÊite, planinarite….Ako ste æeljni adrenalinskih izazova, ne propustite Festival ekstremnih sportova Vanka regule izvan pravila, u Sutivanu, mjestu u Ëijem je podmorju lani pronaeno vrijedno arheoloπko nalaziπte - antiËki brod prekriven pijeskom, potonuo s teretom sarkofaga, kamenica i kamenih blokova.

Pronaite i vi sami svoj potonuli brod ili jednostavno Ëitajte o sjajnoj proπlosti ovog otoka u sjeni neke mirisne smokve ili rogaËa, u nekome vaπemu osobnom umbraculumu, mirnom utoËiπtu pred silom i bukom svijeta.

Uæivajte u vizurama i mirisima otoka, ali i u njegovim okusima. Kuπajte poznato vino plavac, neka od domaÊih jela. Uz fine riblje brujete i buzare od plodova mora, zacijelo joπ niste kuπali procip, karamelizirani mladi ovËji sir ili pili smuticu, koktel od svjeæega kozjeg mlijeka i crnoga vina, spravljen prema Hipokratovim uputama. BraËani danas, prema receptu starom nekoliko tisuÊa godina, saËuvanom tek u rijetkim kuÊanstvima, obnavljaju tradiciju pripravljanja varenika, za koji tvrde da ima afrodizijaËka svojstva. Spravljen od moπta crnoga groæa, doista se nekad rabio kao lijek, a davali su ga i rimskim vojnicima prije napornih marπeva. Pomijeπan s tuËenim æumancima, nudio se mladencima prije prve braËne noÊi. »esti je sastojak braËkih kolaËa, ali i dodatak svim mesnim jelima. BraËka janjeÊa juha, artiËoki s biæima, divlje zelje s riæom, ili butalac ∑ nadjeveni janjeÊi but obloæen aromatiËnim travama i zaliven vinom, pa torta od badema hrapaÊuπa, nazvana po jednom kamenu u 108

CROATIA AIRLINES

mjestu Dol, upotpunit Êe svojim punim okusima vaπ doæivljaj BraËa.

Do otoka se moæe doÊi, dakako, osim vlastitim brodom, trajektom iz Splita do Supetra ili iz Makarske do Sumartina. ZraËna luka na Veπkom polju iznad Bola uvelike je skratila put do toga Ëarobnog odrediπta, a Croatia Airlines od svibnja do rujna dræi redovitu tjednu liniju iz Zagreba.

Lako je, dakle, provjeriti o Ëemu govori Tin kad BraË zove malenim mjestom srca moga i Ëezne za mirisom kalopera.

I sanja: Tamo, tamo da putujem…

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I

slands are like miniature continents. The sea, at the same time, separates them from the mainland and connects them with it.

Ships dock in island harbours or set sail from them, but at the end of the day, they remain alone, weighed down by history, by their good and bad times.

They call it a stone island. If this is indeed so, how come there are so many pine and juniper forests in whose nodes a cricket chirps its suffocating troche, as Nazor put it, and continued: Its song was listened to by Greek colonists, indigenous Illyrians, Roman conquerors, Croatian farmers, Venetian merchants; the Saracen and Omiπ pirates in their alcoves and the Neretva sheepherders on mountain plateaus all knew it well. For the poet, that is the sound of BraË stone, its soil and vegetation.

The voice of megaliths, the unique monuments to painstaking human labour, made of uncut blocks of stones which the islanders, soaked in sweat, stacked up while clearing the red soil and making it suitable for farming in the process - to the poet their sound is a temple, built by toil and pain, one heavy stone after another, neither tombstones nor defence walls but altars for the souls which strive towards the sun and the stars. For the sculptor RendiÊ, the chirping of Mediterranean crickets is nothing short of the rhythm of fairies’ songs.

If it is a stone island, how come there are so many sour cherries, pomegranates, bearberries and grapes, all those fruits that feed the birds, as well as the notorious island fairies and pucks, dragons that safeguard undiscovered Greek treasures. All of these are under an unfathomable sky with stars so numerous that at night they blend into one big light trimmed with darkness.

How come there are so many cypress and orange and fig trees, and sweet St. John’s wort, which provide the best shade there is.

How come there is so much Spanish broom, so golden that it competes with the sun, as well as wild sage, rosemary and immortelle, caper and fennel, basil and marjoram, mint

and mint geranium, all those fragrances strewn across pastures where white sheep and goats and an occasional wild mule roam. There is no perfumer’s nose capable of recreating the divine BraË concoction, highlighted by the hints of salt and iodine.

They call it an island of grapes, and then again, in the poet’s mind, the neglected vineyards conjure up the image of dead farmers ∑ to him, the old nubs and brushwood which stick up from the ground look like heads, shoulders and fingers that might rise from the ground and once again tackle the pickaxe and the hoe. They call it an island without bread and water, so how come UjeviÊ wrote a heavy rain pours down the window pane, and its sound is as sweet as a grape berry on the lips. Nazor, in his turn, says that his heart grows on the strength of the gift from above and he praises the island for teaching him how to be thirsty and covet his entire life. For Kaπtelan, BraË is the island of childish auguries and fantasies, whose shores are pounded by the sea and time. He concludes by saying that every dream leads to reality.

Petar ©imunoviÊ, a linguist, onomastics expert and dialectologists, the best connoisseur of BraË, sees the island as a huge vessel, anchored in the most beautiful spot of the central Dalmatian archipelago, at the crossroads of the sea routes. Indeed, every encounter with the island, the first as well as the umpteenth, takes one’s breath away. Like Fellini’s Rex, the luxuriously illuminated transatlantic cruise liner which emerged from the fog before the eyes of the entire populace of Rimini, who had been sitting in small boats for hours only to see her, and she sailed past in the blink of an eye, immense and surreal.

Fortunately enough, however fiercely the bura may lick the corners and sweep into doorways, as ©tambuk put it, there is no wind, no bura so mighty to make BraË sail away. And there is no fog either. This is one of the sunniest island on the Adriatic, and boasts the best of the Mediterranean climate ∑ warm summers and mild and short winters. Rainfall is scarce in the summer, and in the winter there is twice as much rain inland as on the island’s shores.

The first mention of BraË appeared in the 4th century B.C. The Greek geographer Scylax called it Krateiai. Its name supposedly derives from the Illyrian word brentos, meaning deer; Greeks continued to call it Elaphusa, after their own word for deer. Legend has it that the famous Trojan warrior Antenor found shelter on the island of Brachia. Romans called the island Bretia or Brattia, and when describing his empire in the 9th century, the Byzantine emperor Constantine Porphyrogenitus called it

Barzo and said that it was one of the two most beautiful and fertile Adriatic islands.

The numerous toponyms reflect the different peoples and cultures that have left their marks on the island. Greeks left their artefacts in ViËja Luka near LoæiπÊe, which is believed to have been one of the harbours on their trade route with the Illyrians. Romans opened the first stone quarries at the crossroads of the maritime routes between the north and south, between Issa and Salona. Their harbours were in Splitska, Bol, LovreËina; they left behind their cisterns and villae rusticae (Roman countryside villas), as well as numerous cattle troughs which were carved in rocks. When Salona was destroyed by the barbaric Eurasian Avar and Slavic tribes in the 7th century, its inhabitants fled to the island which they considered a safe haven. Subsequently, the Romanized Illyrians were overpowered by new settlers ∑ the Croats from Poljica and the Neretva valley who were fleeing before the Turks.

For a long time thereafter, the Byzantine Empire held the eastern shores of the Adriatic, its limes maritimus, with the island of BraË at its outer rim. In the 8th century, during the subsequent Frankish occupation under Charlemagne, the Slav settlers were baptised in the Christian faith. In the 11th century, the island fell under Venice for the first time; during the rule of King Petar Kreπimir IV it was part of the Croatian Kingdom, albeit for a short time; then it was annexed to the Ugrian state, but nevertheless retained its political independence and the privilege of exercising self-government through the institutions of a commune and a duke elected by the local nobility. Exposed to onslaughts by the pirates of Omiπ, the islanders turned to Venice for help. Venetians obliged and repelled the pirates, but in no time they became the island’s rulers, with commissionaires known as providurs ruling the island arrogantly for 4 centuries and quashing its self-government privileges. Rulers took turns; Venice fell and gave way to Austria. After the Poæun Peace Treaty signed in 1805, this region came under the progressive reformist administration of the French. They abolished the island’s nobility, urbanized the settlements, built roads and opened Croatian speaking schools. The island was occupied by Russians for less than a year before the French returned, but they were soon ousted by the British. After the fall of Napoleon, BraË went back to the Austrians. At the beginning of WW II, the island was under Italian occupation. The ensuing period was hard, marked by mass resistance and terrible acts of fascist reprisal. A brief period of German occupation ended with the island’s liberation by the Partisans and their English allies. It was

all quiet and uneventful for the next fifty years or so, until 1991, when the war ships of the hostile Yugoslav Army anchored in front of the island, from there threatening the city of Split across the channel. In the month of November of that year the western part of BraË was shelled, but that might was short-lived.

The island has seen a string of conquerors and liberators, plunderers and enlighteners. Different administrations and states have all left their marks, their stamp; they have all gone down in history, some as benefactors, and others as evil doers.

An important mark was made by those who had left the island on a quest for a better life.

They crossed the oceans, settling in both Americas, mostly in South America, but also in Australia and New Zealand. Generations have been born there and they have pined for the island, their nostalgia exacerbated by the distance.

The island’s populace has always engaged in cattle breeding, forestry, farming, fishing, stone carving and trading. The oldest occupation, however, is stone carving, based on the Roman stone carving tradition and an abundant supply of quality limestone. From the numerous quarries, some of which spanned two miles in diameter, stone blocks were transported to the harbour in Splitska, and from there, by specially constructed boats, the so-called naves lapidariae, whose carrying capacity was up to several hundred tons, they were hauled to constructions sites in Italy or to Split and Salona, including the construction site of the masterpiece of architecture, Diocletian’s Palace.

The white BraË stone attracted famous sculptors and builders of the late gothic and renaissance periods; Niccolo Fiorentino, Juraj Dalmatinac and his disciple Andrea Alessi, who scattered their works all over the island.

Ancient quarries above Splitska hide many Roman traces, as does the bottom of the sea in the harbour where stones would fall during loading. There are remarkable traces of Roman quarrying techniques in the ancient stone quarries ∑ hand chiselled canals up to five metres deep, barely wide enough for passage and the swing of a powerful stone carver’s arm, whose force could separate huge blocks of stone from a boulder.

Many stone carving tools have been discovered alongside unfinished columns and chiselled capitals, fibulae and altars. The stone quarries were dedicated to the demi-god and mythical hero Heracles. The live rock in Rasohe cave features a coarsely carved relief of the hero; an altar was erected in his honour in Plate quarry.

Equally mesmerizing when used as the building material for noblemen’s palaces and modest farmers’ and fishermen’s houses; for public buildings and sacral edifices, including antiquity shrines, charmingly beautiful old Christian basilicas and renaissance and baroque churches, stone has always been the most important construction material and still features prominently in the building tradition of the entire Croatian coast and its islands.

Since ancient times, the islanders have engaged in cattle breeding, especially raising goats and sheep. Already in the first century, Pliny the Elder wrote that BraË was known for its goats...capris laudata Brattia. Viticulture gained extreme prominence in the second half of the 19th century when a vine pest struck vineyards all over France and Italy. The wines of BraË, the red Plavac and the white Vugava, were exported to these two strongest wine growing countries. Viticulture flourished until phylloxera spread across the vineyards of BraË. Steam ships replaced sailing boats, and that development finally put an end to the period of prosperity and fuelled a wave of emigration.

Social life on BraË was well structured from very early on, which is best illustrated by the BraË Statute, a collection of provisions written in 1305 to regulate the different aspects of life on the island.

Another testimony to the well structured form of public life is the so-called Povlja Certificate, a deed, actually a copy of the deed of the Benedictine monastery of St. John the Baptist in Povlja on the island of BraË. It was inscribed on a pergament sheet, in BosanËica script, or Croatian Cyrillic, in December 1250. It is safeguarded in the office of the parish church in PuËiπÊa on BraË as one of the oldest Croatian linguistic, cultural and historic monuments.

The history of ©krip, the oldest settlement on the island, spans three thousand years. The village is located inland and is a kind of townmuseum with an Illyrian acropolis, the biggest Roman cemetery on the island, sarcophagi, a mausoleum and altars, a modest Croatian preRomanesque three-nave basilica and a manor.

The houses with white-washed slate roofs are a typical example of the island’s rural architecture. In the 16th century, a defence tower was built on the foundations of the so-called Cyclopes walls dating back to the year 1500 B.C. Currently, the tower houses one part of the island’s ethnographic museum, whose main building is located nearby. The museum’s holdings include ancient altars, old Christian reliefs and a veritable ethnological treasure trove ∑ a collection of objects for everyday use, farming tools, furniture and paintings.

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Bol is the oldest seaside town on the southern side of the island. The remains of a villa rustica and Roman piscinae, reliefs and tombstones, indicate that the settlement was inhabited in ancient times. In the 15th century, Dominican priests established their community there; they built a church and a monastery, whose museum now holds collections of prehistoric and ancient submarine archaeology artefacts, chasubles and liturgical objects. Equally interesting is the collection of small objects found in KopaËina cave, whose age is measured in the thousands of years; there are also a pinacotheca, a numismatic collection, incunabula and an old Croatian wattle ornament from a 9th century gable. The museum boasts Tintoretto altar painting, Madonna with the child from 1563. The Baroque church of Our Lady of Carmel prides itself on the sculpture of Angel with Veronica’s Scarf, which came from an earlier church on whose foundations the current church was built. One of the oldest churches on the island, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, dates back to the 9th century, but the building with frescoes which is underneath predates the current church by 3 centuries.

A renaissance-baroque 17th century palace on the seashore houses a gallery with a rich collection of Croatian contemporary art named after a beloved sculptor from BraË, the great animalist sculptor DeπkoviÊ.

A one-time village of wine-growers, sailors and fishermen, Bol has been transformed into a tourist Mecca, primarily due to the half-a-kilometre long Zlatni Rat (Golden Horn) beach, a tongue of fine pebbles sitting on a underwater reef and sticking far out into the sapphire-coloured sea. It is known as a moving beach, because winds and sea-currents keep on reshaping its protruding tip; in winter, the tip faces west; in summer, it faces east. One of its sides is always leeward, and its shape is mimicked by a shady pine forest in which one can always be cooled off by the gently refreshing and lull-inspiring breeze. If you find a lucky stone on this magical beach, actually an Astraea rugosa mollusc shell washed onto the shore by the sea, you will certainly come back. You would come back anyway... The sea channel between BraË and Hvar provides ideal conditions for windsurfing, which makes Bol a globally famous windsurfing destination.

Come summer, the open sea in front of the many beaches in Bol swarms with these silent and fast multicoloured winged insects.

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inland region of the island; mountain trekking to Dragonja’s cave and Blaca hermitage; and the trail to the ancient stone quarries below ©krip leads past neat orchards and olive groves. A big tennis court with seating for more than 1800 spectators hosts international tournaments for women, and there are several other tennis centres with good tennis schools.

Vidova Gora towers over Bol. Its protected landscape boasts the highest Adriatic peak, Sutvid (Sv. Vid, Svevid) at 778 metres above sea level. The forest park on Vidova Gora is interspersed with rockeries and shrubbery.

Sage and absinth, rosemary and heather grow along the mountain trail. The entire area is a heaven for mushroomers and asparagus pickers, snail and medicinal herb collectors.

For those who find the two-hour mountain trail too demanding, there is also a road leading to the vantage point and to the tavern in the mountain lodge which offers island lamb on a spit, delicious prosciutto, local vitalac cheese and other specialties of the island’s cuisine.

Vidova Gora has long been the place of choice for those who fly - sailors in the wind, free-fliers and paragliders who watch, with interest or perhaps a hint of envy, the slow circling of the island’s birds of prey - the buzzards, as they hover effortlessly within thermal columns with their wings immobile. The nearby caves include the ViËja (witches’) pit, which is popularly believed to end in ViËja harbour on the coast.

One of the most attractive outings from Bol involves a boat trip to a little beach in an alcove, from which a foot trail leads to Blaca hermitage, a settlement founded by Glagolitic priests who had fled Poljica before Turkish invaders. For centuries, they laboured painstakingly and transformed rockeries into fields and bare cliffs into settlements. As time passed, they turned former shepherd’s dwellings into a hillside townlet wedged into the rocks. The Poljica roots died in 1963 with the last descendant of the Poljica priests, father Nikola MiliËeviÊ, Jr., a teacher, mathematician and astronomer. Blaca is now open to visitors, who are all pleasantly surprised, not only by the beautiful architecture of the hermitage, which has become one with the stone, but by the quite unexpected refinement of the interior. A rustic kitchen with a big open fireplace, fireplace accessories, beekeeping and wine making tools, a school and a library with 8,000 books, a collection of ancient weapons, a piano and a violin, an observatory and telescopes ∑ they are all there, as well as a weight-driven pendulum clock purchased in London in the 17th century, a mechanical organetto which reproduces sound from perforated cardboard plates, a printing press and

many sacral objects such as chalices, candle holders and paintings.

With permission from the BraË duke, Dragon’s Cave above Murvica, as well as other nearby hermitages, was settled by the first Glagolitic priests who had fled Poljica in the 15th century.

The cave’s walls are covered with deep carvings depicting almost phantasmagorical representations of a struggle between good and evil, and there is also a depiction of the motif we see in the little church in Bol, the Angel with Veronica’s Scarf. The carvings are an interlude of sorts between the Christian dedication to God and a prehistoric space filled with mystical energy, pagan beliefs and forest fairies who still safeguard the cave’s entrance. The cave owes its name to the carving of a giant dragon whose tail is lost somewhere in the underground rocky world. The depths of that subterranean world are home to a one-eyed giant Orkomarin, who lives in myths together with werewolves, witches and ill-omened morellas.

Some locals claim that fairies still gather in several places, for example in Trolokve, the three watering holes from which the fairies of BraË drink water, together with sheep and an occasional small heard of horses. Another mythical gathering spot for elves is the socalled Dolomite Cake, a remarkably erect stone ring near NereæiπÊa and also a protected natural monument. It was named after a hard and dry biscotti biscuit whose shape it emulates.

The twelve metre high rock consists of two arches that are linked at the top, but there are still locals who remember when they were not connected in the past. The Cake is reputed to have magical powers and is known to affect the people who pass under the arch in a very special way.

Not far from NereæiπÊa is the island’s former administrative, religious and economic centre, and the seat of the dukes of BraË starting from the 10th century. The remains of a Roman mausoleum in its vicinity are not well preserved but still conjure up the image of the once magnificent building. Glavica features one of the many old wind-mills strewn across BraË. Another interesting sight is a protected little pine tree that grows from the roof of the church in NereæiπÊa.

In the mid-20 th century, the agricultural combine opened a small industrial facility in NereæiπÊa to produce the first chewing gum in this part of Europe. Many Croatians of a certain age still associate the name NereæiπÊa with the taste and shape of those hard square-shaped products, individually wrapped in paper, which they bought by the piece as school children.

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American movies. In post-war austerity, exacerbated by socialist deprivation, these first chewing gums conjured up the image of a different world, beyond the state borders, which had hardly started opening. Although the production of chewing gum was discontinued at the beginning of the war in 1991, it has now been revived and expanded to include the production of sweets and lollypops. New jobs have been created and NereæiπÊa locals are undoubtedly glad to see lorries loaded with the products of their diligent labour crossing the sea to bring joy to all those who love their sweets.

Sumartin is nestled on the very seashore in the eastern part of BraË. A ferry line connects it with Makarska. Sumartin is a quiet place, the youngest town on the island, with a small shipbuilding yard, one of the last on the Adriatic with a tradition of producing wooden boats.

The locals are proud of their fellow villager Mario PuratiÊ, who in 1955 invented and constructed the so-called Power Block, PuratiÊ’s device for purse seine net hauling. The application of his pulley has revolutionized purse seine fishing around the world, saving the fishermen the painstaking job of pulling purse seines by hand and tripling the amount of fish caught by three times fewer men. Interestingly enough, Sumartin is the only place on the island in which the shtokavian variant of the Croatian language is spoken, unlike the rest of the island where the chakavian variant is used.

Selca, a kilometre away and some hundred meters above sea level, was mentioned already in 1184 as a shepherds’ settlement. Its stony environment later made it the centre of the island’s stone masonry. Selca is a quiet and quaint place, with a lovely square and a church that houses MeπtroviÊ’s Sculpture of the Heart of Jesus.

Every summer the town of Selca hosts an event known as Croatia rediviva, a festival of Croatian poetry which was established in 1991 by poet, physician and diplomat Drago ©tambuk in an attempt to promote poetry written in all three variants of the Croatian language ∑ chakavian, kaikavian and shtokavian. Originally it was held at a different time, but the date has been changed and it has become a tribute to those who were killed on 9 August when Selca and other places on the island were torched by Italian fascists. Instead of a laurel wreath, the best poets in Selca are crowned with a wreath made of olive branches. Thus, the crowned poet is not the laureate, but rather the poeta oliveatus. He enjoys the special honour of having his name and selected verses carved into the stone plate of the Wall of Verses in the central square, in keeping with the local stone masonry and stone carving tradition.

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On the northern littoral of BraË, across the sea from Split, lies Supetar, the biggest settlement on the island and its commercial, economic and tourist centre. Surrounded by pine woods, it has rocky and pebble beaches and many interesting sites, and it is one of the most popular tourist destinations on the Croatian Adriatic coast. KopaËina Cave is an archaeological site from the Stone Age, the oldest known human dwelling in Dalmatia. According to estimates, it existed as early as 8 thousand years before Christ. Like everywhere else on the island, mostly in olive groves and vineyards, scattered around Supetar are a number of bunja, round field houses with dome-shaped roofs made of stone.

PuËiπÊa is the second biggest settlement on BraË. It is sheltered deep inside a well protected bay which at its far end branches out to the northern side of the island. The inhabitants of PuËiπÊa were always painfully aware of the constant threat from the sea. That is why instead of renaissance palaces they built 13 bulwarks, fortresses with turrets, some of which are preserved to this day. Stone is the focal point of PuËiπÊa’s past and present.

Famous renaissance stone masons built their most beautiful pieces here, so it is little wonder that the place boasts the largest number of sacral edifices on the island. The only stone masonry school on the island operates here.

Not far from PuËiπÊa is a deep bay, LovreËina, with its beautiful sandy beach which boasts a rich archaeological site with the remains of an early Christian church and a baptistery in the shape of a cross.

Legend has it that Milna derives its name from boats. Its well protected harbour was used as a shelter by many a Venetian vessel. That is why people called it a valle di mile navi ∑ a bay of a thousand ships. The true origin of the name, however, is most probably the old Slavonic word mil meaning sand. From ancient times, the bay which carves deep into the shore has been the best protected natural anchorage on the island, and as of recently one of the most beautiful marinas on the Adriatic. Milna also boasts a shipbuilding tradition ∑ a small yard is still operational here and braceras, once the most commonplace wooden boats on the Adriatic Sea, were built here in Milna.

The settlements on the island seem to be like jewels in the lavish necklace of BraË: Mirca, Postira, Sutivan, Splitska, Povlja, Gornji and Donji Humac, LoæiπÊa, Praænica, Dol, including all 22 of the places on the island.

Each of them is different in its own way; each bears its own historical scars, each has its own celebrations and sorrows, each has its own important places. There is no room to

describe all of them; we leave it to you to visit the numerous man-made monuments, as well as the many wonders which will not let you down ∑ the natural beauties of BraË. Whatever your preference may be ∑ the hustle and bustle of coastal resorts or the sacred silence and peace of harmonious medieval settlements found inland, on BraË you will certainly find your favourite spot. Swimming, scuba-diving, walking or trekking… If you are in the mood for adrenaline-packed challenges, do not miss the Festival of extreme sports Vanka regule (Beyond Rules) in Sutivan, a place where a very valuable archaeological site was unearthed last year - an ancient ship at the bottom of the sea covered with sand, as well as its cargo of sarcophagi, amphorae and stone blocks.

Find your own sunken ship or simply read about the splendid past of this island while sitting in the shade of a fragrant fig tree or St. John’s wort. Find your own umbraculum, a safe haven where you can hide from the might and clamour of the world.

Delight in the vistas and scents of the island and savour its flavours. Taste the famous plavac wine and try some of the authentic dishes. You may have tasted the delicious fish brudetto or buzara, but you probably have not tasted procip, caramelised young sheep cheese, or drank smutica, a cocktail of fresh goat milk and red wine, based on Hippocrates’ instructions. The locals have recently revived the tradition of varenik, prepared according to a several-thousand year old recipe, and reputed to have aphrodisiac properties. The red grape must was indeed once used as medicine, and was given to Roman soldiers on the eve of demanding marches. Mixed with a beaten yolk, it was offered to young couples on their wedding night. It is a staple ingredient of BraË pastries, as well as an addition to all meat dishes. BraË lamb broth, artichokes with peas, homegrown island vegetables and herbs with rice, or butalac ∑ a filled leg of lamb wrapped in aromatic herbs and marinated in wine; the almond cake hrapaÊuπa, named after a rock in Dol ∑ all of these will complete your impression of BraË with the fullness of tastes.

You do not need your own boat to reach the island. There are ferries from Split to Supetar and from Makarska to Sumartin. The airport in Veπko Field above Bol has significantly shortened the journey to this magical destination.

Croatia Airlines regularly connects the island with Zagreb from May to September.

Thus, it is really easy to verify what Tin had in mind when he called BraË a little place of my heart and said that he pined for the fragrance of mint geranium.

And dreamt: If only I were to travel there… ■

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eboder u srediπtu glavnoga albanskoga grada Tirane. Na njegovu vrhu nalazi se staklena kupola do koje vozi panoramsko dizalo. U njoj se, pak, nalazi ekskluzivni kafiÊ Ëije se cijene ne srame cijena u nekim zemljama iz Europske unije.

Kupola se svakih 45 minuta okrene za puni krug omoguÊujuÊi gostima cjeloviti pogled na najveÊi albanski grad i njegove suvremene zgrade u svim bojama. Gosti su uglavnom domaÊi poslovni ljudi u skupim odijelima i zapadnjaci kojima Albanija postaje veoma zanimljivo turistiËko odrediπte. Stotinjak kilometara dalje u planinama oblasti Mirdita, pastir Ëuva ovce. Na jednom ramenu nosi staru torbicu u kojoj se nalazi komad kruha i suhe ovËetine, te boca vode. Na drugome je puπka koja mu sluæi za rastjerivanje vukova, ako ih glad dovede pred njegovo blago.

To je slika danaπnje Albanije. Zemlje u kojoj kontrasti dolaze do izraæaja u punom smislu te rijeËi.

IspriËati priËu o Albaniji nije moguÊe bez njezine povijesti, koja je ovoj zemlji odredila danaπnju sliku. Albanci se prvi put spominju kao narod u vrijeme vladavine Bizanta 1043., a 1204. godine zbog pomoÊi u ratovanju protiv MleËana dobivaju nezavisnu albansku kneæevinu Epirusa. Albance poslije osvaja Osmanlijsko Carstvo 1478. godine, nakon velike borbe koju je ovaj narod pruæio pod vodstvom Skenderbega, najslavnije osobe u albanskoj povijesti. U to vrijeme Albanci s krπÊanstva prelaze na islam. Æelja za nezavisnoπÊu albanskog naroda jaËala je u 19. stoljeÊu, a 1878. godine bio je osnovan Prizrenski savez radi osamostaljenja Albanije.

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Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos Krunoslav Rac

U Albaniji je i danas na svakom koraku vidljiv tradicionalan naËin æivota kakav je bio i prije stotinjak godina. Istodobno tekovine suvremenog zapada uπle su u svakidaπnji æivot Albanaca na velika vrata. Upravo je zbog tih kontrasta Albanija jedna od najzanimljivijih europskih zemalja.

In Albania the traditional way of life of some hundred years ago can still be seen in every step. At the same time, modern creature comforts are pushing their way into the lives of Albanians. The resulting contrasts make Albania one of the most intriguing countries in Europe.

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U to doba napisana je i suvremena albanska gramatika.

Albanija nezavisnost stjeËe 1912., a πesnaest godine poslije postaje kraljevina. Ahmed-beg Zogu, sin voe jednoga od albanskih plemena, tada je uspio nagovoriti parlament da dræavu pretvori u kraljevinu, a da on postane kralj. On vlada do 1939. godine, kad Albaniju osvaja faπistiËka Italija. No, nakon Drugoga svjetskog rata poËinje najmraËnije doba u albanskoj povijesti.

Viπe od Ëetrdeset godina zemlja je bila u potpunoj izolaciji. Ono πto se tada dogaalo u njoj, ostatku svijeta bila je nepoznanica.

Naime, 1946. godine na vlast je doπla KomunistiËka partija, predvoena ozloglaπenim diktatorom Enverom Hoxhom. Albanski narod zadesila je nesretna sudbina da æivi u najgorem obliku komunistiËkog reæima na Zemlji.

Diktatura koju je provodio Enver Hoxha bila je straπna. Stanovnici su æivjeli u strahu od progona u zatvore u kojima ih je Ëekao teæak fiziËki rad u, primjerice, rudnicima. Cijele su obitelji seljene u logore, a oni koji su bili najveÊa prijetnja, smaknuti su bez milosti. Od 203 katoliËka sveÊenika, koja su sluæbovala na podruËju grada Skadra na sjeveru Albanije, samo su 32 preæivjela. Muslimanska je vjera najzastupljenija, poslije nje pravoslavna, pa

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katoliËka. Sve su one bile zabranjene. Do 1991. godine, kad je pao komunizam, i sva su vjerska groblja bila zatvorena te su se umrli pokapali na gradskim grobljima. Potpuna izolacija od ostatka svijeta zatvorila je Albaniju u Ëahuru. No, kad je ona pukla, Albanci su poletjeli poput leptira koji dugo Ëeka da ugleda svijet u kojemu æivi.

Padom komunizma Albanija se otvorila prema svijetu i objeruËke prigrlila sve πto dolazi sa zapada. No, dolaskom demokracije u dræavi je zavladao kaos. Albanci je nisu razumjeli, πto i nije Ëudno nakon viπe desetljeÊa diktature i izolacije. Viπe dræava nije upravljala æivotom obiËnog Albanca te je on prvi put osjetio slobodu da moæe raditi πto ga je volja. Rezultat je toga i mnoπtvo odbaËenog smeÊa na ulicama gradova i cestama.

Najbolji je primjer Tirana, koja ima veliki problem sa smeÊem. Nekad je bila Ëista, jer ljudi su bili prisiljeni nekoliko puta na mjesec Ëistiti smeÊe po gradu. Ovo se danas Ëini poput revolta prema nekadaπnjim vremenima, koja æele zaboraviti. Povijest ovoga, danas milijunskoga grada, nije previπe bogata, ali ipak je zanimljiva. Grad je osnovao Sulejman-paša 1614. godine, a prijestolnica je postao tek 1920. godine. U proπlosti je Tirana bila mali grad, tako da je 1701. godine u njoj æivjelo samo 4000 stanovnika. Taj je broj do 1989. godine narastao do 277.000.

Grad je tijekom komunistiËke vlasti poprimio novi izgled. Graene su tipiËne kockaste i sive komunistiËke zgrade u kineskom stilu.

Osobito je promijenjen glavni, Skenderbegov trg, koji je proπiren u takoer tipiËan prostrani komunistiËki trg.

Padom komunizma Tirana je doæivjela pravu ekspanziju te je po posljednjem popisu

stanovniπtva iz 2007. godine u njoj æivjelo 895.000 stanovnika. To nije realan broj zbog toga πto je u gradu mnogo doseljenog stanovniπtva koje ovdje nema prijavljeno prebivaliπte. Danas Ëak treÊina albanskog stanovniπtva, od njih 3,500.000, æivi u njezinoj metropoli. Toliki priljev stanovnika nakon pada komunizma uzrokovalo je veliko siromaπtvo Albanaca, koji su izlaz traæili u velikom gradu, te je danas golema razlika izmeu Tirane i ostalih gradova i sela u Albaniji.

LogiËno je da je graevinarstvo doæivjelo pravu eksploziju. Tirana se sada doima kao veliko gradiliπte, a i obiËnome je laiku jasno da je grad graen bez pravoga urbanistiËkog plana.

Nakon raspada komunizma ljudi iz provincije doseljavali su se i svojevoljno uzimali zemlju, tada dræavnu, bez ikakva nadzora, pa je veliki dio ovoga grada sagraen nelegalno. Godine 1990. u gradu je bilo samo 200 automobila i svi u vlasniπtvu dræave. ObiËan graanin nije smio posjedovati automobil. Danas ih je viπe od 300.000, mahom starijih i ekoloπki neprihvatljivih, zbog kojih najveÊim dijelom Tirana nosi epitet najneoËiπÊenije europske metropole.

Pomak prema naprijed nakon kaotiËnih godina koje su uslijedile poslije sloma komunizma dolazak je Edija Rame na mjesto gradonaËelnika Tirane. Godine 2000. poduzeo je akciju nazvanu Povratak identitetu. Tom je akcijom sruπeno mnogo nelegalno sagraenih kuÊa, a osobito onih sagraenih na obalama rijeke Lane. Ono po Ëemu je Edi Rama postao svjetski poznat i πto mu je 2004. godine donijelo titulu najboljega gradonaËelnika u svijetu jest bojenje sivih zgrada u Tirani. PriliËno je proËelja obojeno u veselim, ponegdje i psihodeliËnim bojama, koje su gradu dale novu dimenziju. ObeÊao je Rama da Êe u Tirani posaditi 10.000 novih stabala, CROATIA AIRLINES

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Ëime Êe se smanjiti oneËiπÊenost zraka te Êe grad od 2012. do 2014. godine imati najËiπÊi zrak na Balkanu. »isti zrak i prekrasna priroda jedan su od aduta kojima ostatak zemlje privlaËi posjetitelje. Od prekrasnoga planinskog masiva Prokletija na sjeveru Albanije, preko golemoga Skadarskoga i Ohridskog jezera, pa sve do kilometarskih pjeπËanih plaæa na obali mora, ova zemlja ima uistinu dobru perspektivu za razvoj turizma.

U prilog tome govori i podatak da je Albanija prva zemlja u Europi po bioraznolikosti, a meu prvima je i po zalihama pitke vode. Razvoj se turizma osobito odnosi na obalni dio Albanije, gdje turizam postaje glavna gospodarska grana. Nekad se glavnina gospodarstva zasnivala na teπkoj industriji, koja je oneËistila rijeke i okoliπ. Danas ostaci tih golemih i zahralih postrojenja poput sjene Envera Hoxhe joπ odolijevaju zubu vremena. No, viπe ne rade, pa su rijeke ponovno Ëiste i pune ribe, a more u koje se ulijevaju izvrsno za kupanje.

Zanimljiv je podatak da se albanska obala nalazi na dva mora. Jonsko se proteæe od granice s GrËkom do grada Valone, a Jadransko dalje prema sjeveru, do granice s Crnom Gorom. Kao u Tirani, i na obali mora uslijedila je masovna gradnja ili apartmanizacija, kako je

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nazivaju Albanci. Dok se turizam na obali joπ i danas razvija, veÊina ruralnog stanovniπtva bavi se poljoprivredom. Dolaskom demokracije i trgovina se razvija kao i prometna infrastruktura, koja je bila u katastrofalnom stanju. »ak i do veÊih lokalnih srediπta putovi su bili makadamski. Nedavno je u promet puπtena i prva velika dionica autoceste, koja Êe spajati Tiranu i Priπtinu na Kosovu. Iako je i danas jedna od najsiromaπnijih dræava u Europi, Albanija napreduje velikim koracima prema naprijed.

Veliku pomoÊ stanovnici ove zemlje dobivaju iz inozemstva, gdje radi nekoliko milijuna Albanaca. U teπkim financijskim vremenima nakon pada komunizma ta je pomoÊ bila æivotno vaæna ovdaπnjem stanovniπtvu, koje je najviπe migriralo u GrËku, Italiju i SAD. Iako je danas Albanija otvorena prema svijetu i demokratski ustrojena, joπ mora proÊi popriliËno vremena da bi se zemlja sredila nakon muËnih komunistiËkih godina. U svemu tome najvaænija je volja albanskog naroda za promjenom i æelja da budu ravnopravan i legitiman Ëlan ovoga globaliziranog svijeta u kojemu æive.

Albanci su dobroÊudni ljudi koji Êe svakoga prihvatiti i sa svakim htjeti razgovarati. I kad govore o vremenima koja su iza njih i koja ih nisu mazila, ne vidi se u njihovim oËima bijes

ili ljutnja. Vidi se æelja za uËenjem i napredovanjem. Æelja za otvaranjem novih obzora. n

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high rise building in the heart of the Albanian capital Tirana is topped with a glass dome that is accessible by a panoramic lift. Inside the dome is an exclusive café bar with prices comparable to some places in the European Union. Every 45 minutes the dome rotates one full turn, providing a 360 degree-view of the biggest Albanian city and its modern multi-coloured buildings. Most of the café’s patrons are local business people in expensive power suits and Westerners for whom Albania has become an exceptionally interesting tourist destination. Only a hundred or so kilometres away, in the mountains of the Mirdita region, a shepherd guards his sheep.

The old threadbare satchel hanging from one of his shoulders contains a piece of bread and a snack of dry mutton, as well as a bottle of water. The rifle on the other shoulder serves for protection from hungry wolves that might come after his flock. This is the image of modern-day Albania, a land where the word contrast lives up to its real meaning.

It would be impossible to tell the tale of Albania without talking about its past, as its history has

had a major impact on the way the country looks today. Albanians were first mentioned as a nation in 1043, during the Byzantine rule.

In 1204, as a reward for their engagement in the war against Venice, the Albanian dukedom of Epirusa was granted independence.

Albanians were conquered by the Ottoman Empire in 1476, after a bout of heroic resistance spearheaded by Skender Bey, the most famous figure in Albanian history. At that time Albanians were converted to Christianity. In the 19th century the wish for independence grew stronger among Albanians and this led to the establishment of the League of Prizren in 1878, whose main goal was to make that wish come true for Albania. That was also the time when the foundations were laid for modern Albanian grammar. Albania gained independence in 1912 and became a kingdom 16 years later. Ahmet Bey Zog, the son of one of the tribal leaders, persuaded the parliament to make the state a kingdom and crown him king. He ruled the country until 1939 when Albania was occupied by Fascist Italy. The darkest period in the history of Albania began after World War II. For over 40 years the country subsisted in full isolation. The rest of the world knew nothing CROATIA AIRLINES

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about the goings-on in Albania throughout that period. In 1946 the Communist Party took over, led by the notorious dictator Enver Hoxha. The Albanian people suffered greatly as a result of having to live in the worst possible form of the communist regime on earth.

Enver Hoxha’s dictatorship was atrocious.

Albanians lived in fear of persecution and imprisonment in places where they were subject to hard labour, for example in mines. Entire families were incarcerated in camps and those who presented the biggest threat were mercilessly executed. Of the 203 catholic priests who once preached in the city of Skadar in the north of Albania, only 32 survived. Most of the population are Muslim, followed in numbers by those of Orthodox and Catholic faiths. All religions were banned during the dictatorship.

By 1991, the year of the fall of communism, all religious cemeteries had been closed and the dead were buried in city cemeteries.

Complete isolation from the rest of the world confined Albania in a sort of cocoon. When the cocoon broke open, Albanians flew from it like a butterfly that had waited for a long time to see the world it lives in.

After the fall of communism, Albania opened up to the world and wholeheartedly embraced everything that came from the West. How-

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ever, democracy brought chaos to the state.

Albanians did not understand democracy, which was hardly surprising after decades of dictatorship and isolation. The state no longer ruled the lives of common Albanians. For the first time ever, they experienced freedom to do what they wanted. One of the results of that freedom can be seen in the heaps of litter on the streets and roads. The best illustration of the state of the disarray is Tirana, which suffers from huge litter problems. The city used to be clean when its residents were forced to sweep the streets several times a month. What is happening today seems to be a revolt against past times that people wish to forget. Although not overly rich, the history of this city, with a current population of about one million, is still interesting. It was founded

by Suleiman Pasha in 1614, but it became the nation’s capital only in 1920. In the past, Tirana was a small town, with only about 4,000 inhabitants in 1701. That number grew to 277,000 by 1989. During the communist reign the city took on a new appearance. The newly-built houses were typically the square and gray style of Chinese communist design.

The main square, named after Skender Bey, experienced a particularly striking transformation: it was enlarged and extended to assume

the appearance of a spacious communist square. Since the fall of communism Tirana has experienced an all-out expansion: the 2007 census recorded as many as 895,000 residents. That number, however, is not a true reflection of the actual situation, as many of the city’s inhabitants are not officially registered as residents of the capital. Today, nearly one third of the 3.5 million Albanians live in Tirana. The swelling of the city’s population was caused by the austerity in which people had lived in during the communist rule and wanted to escape after its demise. They flooded the only big city in search of a better life and created a huge gap between Tirana and the other Albanian towns and villages. It is only logical that the construction industry has experienced a major boom. Tirana is currently a huge building site, and it does not take an expert to understand that the city has been built without proper zoning plans. After the break-up of communism, people moving from the countryside grabbed portions of the land, still state-owned at the time, and proceeded to erect homes without building permits or proper control. In 1990 there were only 200 cars in the city, all of them state-owned.

Ordinary citizens were not allowed to own

cars. There are over 300,000 today, mostly old and environmentally unfriendly. They have given Tirana the reputation as one of the most heavily polluted European capitals.

The election of Edi Rama as mayor of Tirana constituted a huge move forward after the chaotic post-communist years. In 2000 the new mayor launched an initiative under the name Return to Identity. As a result, a lot of illegally constructed houses were demolished, especially those on the banks of the Lana River. Edi Rama’s claim to global fame, and the main reason he was proclaimed the best mayor in the world, was his project to paint the buildings in Tirana. Many of the façades were painted in cheerful colours, some bordering on psychedelic, which has given the town a new dimension. Rama’s promise was to plant 10,000 new trees in Tirana in order to reduce air pollution. As a result, Tirana will have the cleanest atmosphere in the Balkans between 2012 and 2014.

Clean air and the beautiful countryside are the two selling points that attract visitors to the rest of the country. From the amazing Prokletije range in the north of Albania, across the huge Skadar and Ohrid lakes, down to the sandy beaches that stretch for kilometres, CROATIA AIRLINES

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the countryside offers good prospects for the development of tourism. Another selling point is the fact that Albania is Europe’s leader in biodiversity, as well as the country with the richest reserves of drinking water. The development of tourism holds the biggest promise for the Albanian littoral, where it is quickly becoming the fastest growing industry. In the past, the economy relied mostly on heavy industry which resulted in equally heavy pollution. The remains of huge production facilities that are covered in rust still defy the passage of time, like the shadow of Enver Hoxha. Fortunately enough, they are no longer operational, so the rivers are again clean and full of fish, and the seas they flow into are again good for swimming. Interestingly enough, the Albanian littoral belongs to two different seas. The Ionian Sea stretches from the Greek border to the town of Valona, and the Adriatic Sea continues further north, to the border with Montenegro.

Following the example of Tirana, the coast has also been subject to intense development, or apartmentisation, as the Albanians call the new construction industry surge. While coastal tourism is slowly coming out of its infancy, most of the rural population is still engaged in farming.

The onset of democracy has also brought the development of commerce and trade, as well as the development of a traffic infrastructure, which was in an abysmal state even when the bigger regional centres were connected by macadam roads. Recently, the first long stretch of a new highway was opened to traffic. When completed, the highway will connect Tirana with Pristine in Kosovo. Although the country is still one of the poorest in Europe, Albania is making huge leaps forward. Its residents receive a lot of assistance from the several million Albanians who work abroad, 130

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most of them in Greece, Italy and the USA. Their help was a lifeline for the population during the dire financial straits after the fall of communism.

Although Albania is now fully opened to the world and organized on democratic principles, it will take a lot of time before order is restored in the country after the torturous years of communist rule. What matters the most is the willingness of the Albanian people to embrace changes and their desire to be equal and legitimate members of the globalized world they live in. Albanians are benevolent people who will welcome anybody and gladly engage in a friendly chat. Even when they talk about the times that are behind them, when life was anything but easy, their eyes do not flash with rage or anger. What they convey is their desire to learn and advance; their desire to reach new horizons. n

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TRADICIJA TRADITION ■

U nizu graanskih secesijskih trokatnica s kraja 19. st., frizerski salon u Praπkoj ulici 8 proslavio je u oæujku 75. obljetnicu neprekidnog rada na istome mjestu i pod istim imenom, po Ëemu je najstariji u Zagrebu. Oduvijek je bio kultni salon zagrebaËkih dama i svojevrsni centar primjene svjetskih frizerskih noviteta i trendova. Ali ono πto ga osobito izdvaja iz zagrebaËkoga frizerskog obrta i, kao tradicija, prati do danas, jest tzv. dobro oko i zlatna ruka, πto ima i te kako veze s umijeÊem friziranja.

Housed at no. 8 Praπka Street, as part of a terrace of urban three-storey houses built in the Vienna Secession style, the hairdresser’s parlour has celebrated the 75th anniversary of its existence at the same location under the same name, which makes it the longest-standing hair salon in Zagreb. It has always been the cult address for ladies of Zagreb as the place where new global trends are applied.

However, what makes it stand out from the rest of the hairstyling trade in Zagreb and what has become part of its tradition are the good eyes and golden hands of its owners, two qualities which certainly make all the difference in terms of hairstyling skills.

N Piše/By Anelka MustapiÊ Fotografije/Photos Arhiv Muzeja grada Zagreba/ The archives of the Zagreb City Museum

ekoÊ, kad se Praπka ulica u Zagrebu zvala Ulica Marije Valerije, i bila srediπte zagrebaËkog obrta, kakav je, primjerice, predstavljao Slavoljub Penkala, izumitelj mehaniËke olovke i drugih osamdesetak predmeta koji su olakπavali svakidaπnji æivot, Rudolf Kincl i Branka ©ibenik radili su kao pomoÊni frizeri u salonu Duπka ÆestiÊa.

Tu su se zagledali jedno u drugo, kako bi narod rekao, πto je bitna toËka u njihovu æivotu.

Poslije, takoer u to vrijeme poznatom salonu Dragutina Karla Marchesija, Rudolf je izbio na glas najboljeg zagrebaËkog bubiπtucera, CROATIA AIRLINES

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a Branka najbolje kreatorice, zaËuujuÊe maπtovitosti. VjenËali su se 1931., a 1935. godine otvorili svoj salon. Aparat za trajnu ondulaciju njemaËke marke N.A.M. s danaπnjeg stajaliπta viπe sliËi nekakvome inkvizitorskome nego frizerskom pomagalu, ali onda je bio hit.

InaËe, u tzv. æeljeznoj ondulaciji Branka Kincl bila je nedostiæna u Zagrebu i u toj je, moæda najzahtjevnijoj natjecateljskoj disciplini, koja je postala njezina specijalnost, osvojila najviπe priznanja.

Bilo je to vrijeme kad se uvelike πtitila privatnost uljepπavanja æena. Kincli su imali sedam kabina, interijer salona bio je ureen u secesijskom stilu, a u njemu je radilo dvanaest namjeπtenika. S vremenom Rudolf se sve viπe okretao voenju salona, a Branka, tako nadarena i nedvojbeno ambiciozna, poËela je na natjecanjima osvajati najuglednije nagrade: nekoliko je puta bila prvakinja bivπe dræave, nizali su se pehari... i, πto je zanimljivo u cijeloj priËi, suprug joj je bio osobni trener.

Godine 1937. Branki Kincl dogodilo se Ëudo.

Na natjecanju petstotinjak frizera iz cijelog svijeta, odræanome u Porte de Versaillesu u Parizu, u ukupnom plasmanu bila je najbolja.

Natjecanje u devet disciplina trajalo je dvanaest dana. Grand prix uruËio joj je osobno ministar Republike Francuske, a njezina veËernja frizura i frizura fantazije dokumentirane su kao tadaπnji frizerski, ali i avangardni doseg. Vrhunac u karijeri Branka Kincl postigla je 1957., kad je dobila Kriæ Ëasti za zasluge i doprinos struci, koji dodjeljuje pariπka Akademija za frizure. Te iste godine, u Parizu, u Palais d’Orsay, njezina kÊi Vesna Kincl-MurtiÊ postala je prvakinjom na Europskom natjecanju frizera i, kao pravo Ëudo, ako se neËija vrsnost uopÊe moæe tako nazvati, 1958. godine, opet u Parizu, prvakinjom svijeta.

Zanimljivo je da je na tom natjecanju sudjelovao i Vidal Sassoon, ali nije uspio osvojiti ni jednu nagradu.

Da Vesna Kincl ide majËinim stopama, pokazalo se joπ 1955. godine u Opatiji kad je, kao 19-godiπnja studentica zagrebaËkoga Filozofskog fakulteta, na natjecanju u konkurenciji 319 frizera iz Jugoslavije, Austrije, Zapadne NjemaËke, GrËke i ©vedske osvojila Grand prix u sveukupnom plasmanu za cocktail, apstraktnu veËernju i fantazija frizuru. Ali, poslije 1958. viπe se nije natjecala nego se poËela baviti edukativnom djelatnoπÊu u frizerskoj organizaciji. Udala se i prije nekoliko desetljeÊa naslijedila roditeljski salon koji i danas vodi i svaki dan radi u njemu.

- Mama je bila najmodernija zagrebaËka frizerka, ali i perfekcionistica - prisjeÊa se Ve-sna KinclMurtiÊ. - Po njoj, sve je moralo biti prvorazredno.

Imala je izvrsno oko i mogla je nepogreπivo procijeniti komu kakva frizura pristaje. Uz to, bila 134

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je vrlo elegantna. Umrla je u 96. godini, cijeli se æivot sama πiπala i do posljednjeg dana sama sebi radila frizuru. Za razliku od danas, mamine su klijentice jedanput na tjedan dolazile u salon na frizuru a dva-tri puta na tjedan na Ëeπljanje, imale su svoj abonman i toËno se znalo kad im se πto treba raditi.

Zaπto se i kako, zapravo, studentica francuskoga i talijanskoga jezika i knjiæevnosti ipak odluËila usmjeriti u frizersko zanimanje, dakako, zanimljivo je pitanje.

- Na to je pitanje gotovo nemoguÊe odgovoriti, kao i na pitanje kad sam poËela raditi.

SjeÊam se da mi je jedanput mama u πali rekla: Ti moæeπ slobodno reÊi da si tu bila od roenja, jer dojila sam te u salonu. Pamtim da sam kao dijete imala 17 lutaka koje sam svaki dan Ëeπljala i onda poslagala na kauË da ih mama vidi kada doe kuÊi. Poslije sam svaki slobodni trenutak provodila s roditeljima u salonu i malo-pomalo poËela Ëeπljati kolegice iz Osme æenske gimnazije i neke prijateljice. »ini mi se da sam u salonu cijeli æivot. Preko puta naπeg salona bila je sinagoga, koju smo zvali æidovski templ. Oko 85 posto naπe klijentele dolazilo je zapravo iz tog miljea. Osim toga, pozicija salona bila je dobra, kao πto je i danas, nekoliko kuÊa od Trga Bana JelaËiÊa.

Tata je imao biljeænicu u koju je zapisivao kad je koja muπterija doπla na frizuru, kad na poËeπljavanje, jer tada se naπe klijentice nisu same Ëeπljale kod kuÊe.

Frizerski ispit Vesna Kincl-MurtiÊ poloæila je u treÊem razredu gimnazije jer u ono vrijeme, kako objaπnjava, bio je takav zakon po kojemu su djeca obrtnika mogla polagati ispit nakon tri godine rada u salonu. A to je uistinu bio naporan tempo. Priznaje: - Premda je u naπoj ulici bio korzo, jedva sam katkad uspijevala napraviti jedan krug, jer mamina je filozofija bila: Pa neÊeπ se valjda pokazivati. I, kad bolje razmislim, mogla bih pouzdano reÊi da iza svega stoji moja mama, zbog Ëega nimalo ne æalim. Recimo, uvelike sam æeljela studirati povijest umjetnosti, ali mama je rekla kako je bolje da studiram jezike.

Zaπto sam se opredijelila za frizerku? Moja majka preæivjela je dva svjetska rata i Ëvrsto se dræala uvjerenja da joj djeca, osim fakulteta, moraju imati i zanat. Jer ako se neπto dogodi, da moæemo zaraivati rukama. Shvatila sam je kad sam dobila svoju djecu i njezin nauk preinaËila u svoj moto: ©to Ëovjek viπe zna, cilj mu je dalji! Prema tome, moja kÊi, koja je danas lijeËnica, ima poloæen frizerski ispit. Imam pet unuka i najstarija unuka veÊ radi u salonu i ide u drugi razred gimnazije. Treniram je, kao πto su mene trenirali moji roditelji.

Vesna Kincl-MurtiÊ fascinirana je tridesetim godinama proπloga stoljeÊa. Za nju je to jedno

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od najelegantnijih razdoblja. Æene su nosile torbicu preko ruke i hodale odmjerenim korakom. Bile su poËeπljane na velne i kovrËe, s razdjeljkom po strani. Æivjelo se u kazaliπtima, kavanama, na balovima... Legendarna Branka Kincl starijim je muπterijama joπ radila frizure tzv. æeljeznom ondulacijom, koju je poslije nauËila i kÊi Vesna, jer morala je pomagati majci u poslu. Mlade su se æene kovrËale i πtipaljkama pravile tzv. πestice. No danas, πto je æalosno, naglaπava Vesna Kincl-MurtiÊ, u mnogim salonima ne znaju πto je ondulacija, jer svladale su samo nove tehnologije.

- Danas su svi u tenisicama - kaæe - i Ëini mi se da stalno nekamo bjeæe. A u naπoj struci izraæen je veliki antagonizam izmeu onih koji su kreativci i drugih, recimo za primjer, Jeana Louisa Davida, koji snimi na kasetu jednu liniju frizura, poπalje kasete u svoje salone diljem svijeta i u njima se, u sezoni, rade samo te frizure.

Tako se dogaalo da su iz tih salona izlazile bake i unuke s istovjetnim frizurama.

Postoji li dobna granica kad je posrijedi frizura, zanimalo nas je.

- Postoji, ali to je problem frizera, koji mora biti tako educiran, odgojen i obrazovan da moæe procijeniti tip osobe i frizuru koja bi bila prikladna dobi, ali i poslu kojim se æena bavi.

Osim toga, ljudi Ëesto imaju predodæbu o sebi drukËiju od stvarne i æele neπto πto im ne bi pristajalo. Frizer tada treba znati na lijep naËin reÊi da takvu frizuru æena neÊe moÊi sama odræavati. Velike su razlike u æeljama i moguÊnostima. Neke æene imaju fantastiËan oblik glave i moæeπ im napraviti πto god hoÊeπ, ako dopuste; drugi na æivot gledaju klasiËnije ili modernije... Prema tome, æeni koja ima ozbiljan stav prema æivotu ne moæeπ reÊi napravit Êemo vam najavangardniju frizuru, jer takva se osoba s takvom frizurom neÊe osjeÊati dobro. Neke su æene za promjenu, neke nisu.

NajkraÊe reËeno, smatram da svaka æena cijeli svoj æivot treba voditi brigu o sebi. Najprije, ne volim sijedu kosu, jer osoba mora biti veoma atraktivna za takvu kosu. Ali imam nekoliko prijateljica koje nikad ne bih obojila, jer sijeda im kosa izvrsno pristaje. Nisu dobra ni velika odstupanja od tipa osobe. Ako crnka æeli biti plavuπa, πto je vrlo, vrlo zahtjevno, jer cijela je njezina osoba, pa i koæa i obrve, potpuno drukËija, mora uvijek biti naπminkana, ili obrnuto. Ako plavuπa inzistira na crnoj kosi, ja moram poπtivati njezinu æelju, ali najprije Êu joj nastojati objasniti zaπto to moæda neÊe biti dobro ili da je moæda bolje da ide na kestenjastu boju, koja je koloristiËki mekanija.

Kosa je ukras lica, simbol æenstvenosti, a katkad i spretno poslana poruka. Dakako, æene su kroz povijest znale rabiti to svoje moÊno sredstvo i bile svjesne da im kosa

upotpunjuje cijelu vanjπtinu. Stoga su slijedile modu, trendove frizura, koji su se, kao uostalom i cjelokupna moda, vraÊali u æivot, pa su postojale, a i dandanas se Ëeπljaju frizure, recimo, à la Grace Kelly ili à la Coco Chanel, itd. I Amy Winthouse je pokuπaj svojevrsnog povrata na staro, ali, po sudu Vesne KinclMurtiÊ, uæasan.

- U danaπnje doba æena moæe nositi sve frizure: od avangardnih, kratkih i poludugih, do dugih linija frizura. U kratkoj kosi, veÊ neko vrijeme, nosi se tzv. beckhamica, koja je u jednoj verziji postojala veÊ sedamdesetih godina proπloga stoljeÊa. To je prekrasna frizura, asimetriËna, ali ne moæe je svatko nositi radi oblika glave. ©to se tiËe duge kose, koja je takoer u modi, zaboravljamo da veÊ 30 godina kosu stalno suπimo suπilom, Ëiji modeli iz dana u dan postaju jaËi i sve viπe isuπuju kosu. Stoga u salonu svojim muπterijama kombiniram naËin suπenja: neko ih vrijeme suπim suπilom, a neko vrijeme s uvijaËima stavljam pod haubu, koja je tri-Ëetiri puta slabija od suπila.

Vidal Sassoon, koji je 1958. godine u Parizu ostao bez nagrade, uspio je πezdesetih godina, kad je Mary Quant stvorila mini suknju, lansirati trend kratke kose, koja je postala zaπtitnim znakom manekenke Twiggy, podsjeÊa Vesna Kincl-MurtiÊ, napominjuÊi: - Bila je to uistinu avangardna linija πiπanja.

Sassoon je izbacio uvijaËe, πto je bila novost, a kosa je bila tako izvanredno oπiπana da je dobro stajala kako je god padala. Znate li πto je 1923. znaËilo oπiπati æeni kosu i pokazati joj gleæanj? Mislim da od toga nije moglo biti veÊe revolucionarnosti u modi. Ali, dobro, Sassoon je uveo novu modu πiπanja, tzv. sistematsko prekrasno dizajnersko πiπanje, koje je uvelike olakπalo æeni odræavanje frizure. U πezdesetim i sedamdesetim godinama proπlog stoljeÊa frizura postaje sve niæa i prirodnija, tapira se rjee, i to samo da bi se oblikovala glava. Ali to treba znati raditi, a ne uËi se dovoljno u πkoli, gdje bi buduÊi frizeri morali nauËiti raditi mnogo toga, pa i uvojke, ne samo zato πto su oni ponovno u modi, nego da bi njihovo znanje bilo kompletnije.

Nakon svjetskog uspjeha u Parizu Vesna KinclMurtiÊ otiπla je na poziv poznatoga milanskog frizera Sergia Sodana raditi u njegov salon, koji se nalazio preko puta Scale. Njezina klijentela bile su balerine i operne dive i zbog toga mogla je uæivati u predstavama odræavanima u Scali.

Imala je Ëak i tu sreÊu da sluπa i gleda Mariju Callas. Poslije nje, dakako, nitko je viπe nje mogao oduπeviti. Ali, imala je zadovoljstvo da Ëeπlja poznatu sopranisticu toga doba Renatu Tebaldi. Jednog dana u salon joj je doπla dvorska dama carice Farah Dibe Pahlavi. Bila je oduπevljena frizurom i nakon treÊeg Ëeπljanja CROATIA AIRLINES

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pozvala ju je da u Teheranu bude osobna cariËina frizerka.

- Ipak sam odbila tako laskavu ponudu - kaæe Vesna Kincl-MurtiÊ. - VeÊ me u Milanu muËila nostalgija za Zagrebom, za domovinom.

OsjeÊala sam je kao fiziËku bol. I jedanput sam se zapitala, iako mi je vlasnik htio prepustiti salon: ©to ti, Vesna, radiπ tu? Kod kuÊe imaπ salon, imaπ ljude koje voliπ... Onda mi je brat napisao pismo, misleÊi da Êu ostati, da mu je drago πto Êu ostati, a kako Êe biti njima, zapitao se, stavljajuÊi na kraju tri toËkice. I zbog tih triju toËkica ja sam se vratila. Jer shvatila sam da Ëovjek treba æivjeti ondje gdje ima ljude koje voli! A ja sam imala sretnu obitelj, ali roditelji su æeljeli da radim. »ak i moj brat, danas ugledni arhitekt, koji je bio kao dijete vrlo srameæljiv, morao je prati salon.

Vesna Kincl-MurtiÊ ne hvali se 1957. godinom, kad je u Parizu na europskom prvenstvu osvojila prvu nagradu za Ëeπljanje veËernje frizure, ni 1958. kad je takoer veËernjom frizurom postala prvakinjom svijeta. Zaπto, pitamo je.

- Davna je to proπlost, ali onda je uistinu taj uspjeh neπto znaËio. Tada nismo imali tenisaËe i nogometaπe, pa smo, eto, u svijetu moja majka i ja zastupali hrvatske boje. Kad sam pobijedila na europskom prvenstvu, veleposlanik je u moju Ëast napravio primanje za 300 ljudi.

Poslije Pariza Vesna je odustala od natjecanja, okrenula se drugim aktivnostima u vezi sa strukom, zatim odmah nakon proglaπenja Republike Hrvatske 1992. inicirala osniva-nje Saveza frizera Hrvatske, koji je 1997. postao Ëlan Svjetske frizerske organizacije, organizirala ekipne nastupe po Europi i svijetu, gdje se danas kao branπa nalazimo u vrhu, angaæirana je godinama u Frizerskom demonstracijskom centru, Ëlanica je Svjet-skoga upravnoga odbora Svjetske frizerske organizacije...

U Domovinskom ratu Vesna Kincl-MurtiÊ frizirala je 1600 prognanica, pa ni time se ne hvali. Iz prigodnih broπura doznajemo da se, meu ostalim, πkolovala u BeËu, i to kod svjetske prvakinje Ani Sponar, poslije toga u Parizu 1955.-1956., i da je dobitnica mnogih svjetskih i domaÊih nagrada, Ëak i bronËane medalje za doprinos razvoju i unapreenju frizerske struke te za sveukupni rezultat u natjecanjima, dobivene 2000. u Berlinu; zatim dviju statua Zlatne ruke s poveljom, 2001. i 2004. godine zajedno s majkom Brankom, πto je najveÊe priznanje Hrvatske obrtniËke komore; 2004. u Milanu srebrne medalje za doprinos u radu Svjetske frizerske organizacije i, na posljetku, 2006. godine, Nagrade grada Zagreba za tradicijski obrt. U vitrini salona mnogi su pehari, nagrade i priznanja, πto njezine majke Branke, πto njezini.

Godine 2007. Muzej grada Zagreba organizirao 138

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joj je izloæbu Grand prix u kosi: umijeÊe Ëeπljanja u frizerskom salonu Kincl, propraÊenu monografijom, πto zorno potvruje moto zagrebaËke i svjetske doajenke Vesne Kincl-MurtiÊ: ©to Ëovjek viπe zna, cilj mu je dalji!

U Frizerskom salonu Kincl, obnovljenome 1987. u stilu art deco, po projektu pokojne arhitektice Ines FilipoviÊ, vjenËane kume, glava je Solinjanke, nesretne rimske carice koju je suprug dao ubiti. Za Vesnu Kincl to je najfantastiËnija frizura, nazvana melonen tip jer podsjeÊa na kriπke dinje. Napravila ju je 2004. godine, a model joj je bila kÊi. Taj plakat krasi izlog salona i, na neki naËin, njegova je posjetnica. n

O

nce upon a time, when Zagreb’s Praπka Street was known as Marija Valerija’s Street and persisted as the business hub for Zagreb’s craftsmen and small business owners, the likes of Slavoljub Penkala, who invented the first solid ink fountain pen and some 80 or so other products and devices which simplified everyday life, Rudolf Kincl and Branka ©ibenik worked as trainee stylists in Duπko ÆestiÊ’s salon and they were sweet upon each other, as the popular saying goes. The rest is history. Sometime later, Rudolf joined the team of hairdressers at the equally popular Dragutin Karlo Marchesi’s salon, and gained a reputation as the best bob-cutting expert in Zagreb, whilst Branka became the best creator of the most imaginative hairstyles. They were married in 1931 and in 1935 they opened their own salon. The curling irons manufactured by the German N.A.M. looked more like a torture device than a hairstyling implement from today’s perspective, but back then, they were a real hit, and when it came to using them to create waves, Mrs. Kincl was second to none in Zagreb.

This, perhaps the most demanding hairstyling technique, became her trademark, one which won her many awards and recognitions at competitions.

It was a time when the privacy of clients undergoing beauty treatments was highly valued. The Kincls had seven cubicles in their salon; the interior was decorated in the Vienna Secession style, and there were 12 staff members tending to the salon’s clientele. Gradually, Rudolf turned towards full-time salon management whilst Branka, talented as she was and undoubtedly ambitious, started winning the most coveted awards at competitions: she was a multiple champion of Yugoslavia; she kept on winning one cup after another...

Interestingly enough, her husband was her personal trainer. In 1937, nothing short of a miracle happened to her. At an international

competition in Porte de Versailles in Paris, she scored the best overall result of all 500 hairdressers worldwide. The competition was held over 12 days in a total of 9 different hairstyling disciplines. The Grand Prix was personally handed to her by the Minister of the Republic of France, and her evening and fantasy hairstyles went down in history as the one-time pinnacle of avant-garde hairdressing. Branka Kincl’s career peaked in 1957 when she was awarded the Cross of Honour by the Paris Hairstyling Academy for her merits and contribution to the profession.

That same year, at the Palais d’Orsay in Paris, her daughter, Vesna Kincl-MurtiÊ, became the European hairdressing champion, and miraculously enough, that is if somebody’s excellence can be called a miracle, in 1958, again in Paris, she became the world champion. Just to add an interesting fact, let us mention that one of the competitors that year was also Vidal Sassoon, who left Paris emptyhanded, without a single award.

As early as 1955, it became clear that Vesna Kincl was firmly following in her mother’s footsteps. As a 19-year-old student at Zagreb’s School of Philosophy, competing against 319 hairstylists from Yugoslavia, Austria, West Germany, Greece and Sweden, she won the Grand Prix for her cocktail, abstract evening and fantasy hairstyles. She stopped competing after 1958 and dedicated her efforts to education as a member of the hairdressers’ association. She married the brother of the late painter Edo MurtiÊ and a few decades ago inherited her parents’ salon, which she still runs and goes to work at every day.

- My mum was the most avant-garde hairstylist in Zagreb, but she was also a perfectionist, remembers Mrs. Vesna Kincl-MurtiÊ.

- Everything had to be first class. She had an excellent eye and she was absolutely infallible in deciding which hairstyle would suit which of her clients. She was also very elegant. She died at the age of 95; all her life she had cut her own hair and until the very last day she styled it herself. Unlike today, my mum’s clients used to come to the salon once a week for a full set, and then twice or three times in between for combing. They had their appointment schedules and everybody knew exactly what they were due in for and when.

How and when a student of French and Italian decided to take a career turn and become a hairdresser instead is quite an intriguing question.

- It is intriguing indeed, and almost as impossible to answer as the question regarding when I actually started working. I remember my mother saying to me once, jokingly.

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- You would not be wrong in saying that you have been here from the day you were born.

I nursed you in the salon.” I remember that as a child I had 17 dolls which I combed every day and then lined them up on the couch for mother to see when she came home from work. Later, I spent every free moment with my parents in the salon and gradually started practicing, first on my fellow students at the 18th Girls’ Grammar School and on a few other friends. It feels as if I have been in the salon all my life. The building across the street from our salon was a synagogue, which all of us referred to as the Jewish temple. About 85 per cent of our patrons came from that milieu.

Besides that, the location of the salon could not be better, only a few steps from Ban JelaËiÊ Square. My dad had a notebook in which he recorded the dates when each of the clients came for a full hairdo and when they came for mid-set combing, since at that time our clients did not comb their own hair.

Mrs. Kincl-MurtiÊ passed her hairdressing exam in the third grade of grammar school.

Under contemporary regulations the children of craftsmen and artisans could take the exam after having worked in their parents’ salon for three years. The pace was anything but merciful, she admits.

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- Although the main city promenade was in our street, I hardly ever managed to take a leisurely stroll as my mum’s philosophy was: - You cannot possibly want to show yourself.

Come to think of it, I would be right to say that my mum stood firmly behind all my decisions, to no regret of mine at all. For example, my fondest desire had been to study art history, but my mum had a different idea. You would be better off studying languages, she said.

Why did I decide to become a hairdresser?

My mum had survived two world wars and she was firmly convinced that her children should be trained to do something with their own two hands, that they should have a marketable and practical skill in addition to their university degrees in order to be able to earn a living lest something bad happened. I fully understood her words when I had children of my own and I modified her teaching into my motto: The more one knows, the more one aspires to! My own daughter, who is a medical doctor, has also passed the hairdressing exam and is a certified hairstylist. I have five grandchildren and my eldest granddaughter, a second grade grammar school student, already works at the salon. I train her, the same way I was trained by my parents.

Vesna Kincl-MurtiÊ is fascinated by the 30’s

of last century. For her, that was one of the most elegant periods in history. Women carried purses and walked with poise and grace.

They sported undulations or curls created by rollers and parted their hair on one side. Life took place in theatres, Viennese-style coffee shops, at balls... The legendary Branka Kincl used hot curling irons to provide her more mature patrons with the so-called Marcel wave, which her daughter Vesna learned from her while she was helping in the salon. Younger women preferred hair curlers and finger waving to train hair to curl. Today, unfortunately, hairstylists in many salons are not familiar with undulation techniques as they are taught only new technologies, remarks Mrs. Vesna Kincl-MurtiÊ.

- Everybody wears trainers these days, she continues, “and I have a feeling that people are constantly on the run. In our profession there is a lot of antagonism between those who are creative, on the one hand, and for example, Jean Luis David on the other. The latter takes a video clip of a particular hairstyle, puts it on video-tapes and dispatches them to his salons worldwide. The stylists in the salons will do nothing else but that particular hairstyle that particular season. That is why grandmothers and their granddaughters have been seen leav-

ing such salons sporting identical hairstyles.

We wanted to know if there was an age limit to certain hairstyles.

- Yes, there is, but it is up to the hairdresser to be the judge of that. Hairdressers have to be educated and trained to assess the type of person they face and decide on a particular hairstyle which will suit the patron’s age as well as her profession. Secondly, people’s perception of themselves is often mismatched with reality and they often ask for hairstyles that would not suit them at all. It is the hairstylist’s job to tactfully tell the patron that she will not be able to maintain the desired hairstyle herself. There is a major gap between what patrons want and what is achievable. Some women have a fantastic head shape and you can do anything to them, if they let you. There are also different attitudes to life - more classical and old-fashioned, on the one hand, and more modern on the other. Therefore, if you know that your patron has a rather serious attitude toward life, you can hardly tell her: We will style your hair in the most avant-garde way because she will certainly not feel comfortable or happy with that on her head. Some women are prepared to embrace any change, others are not. In a nutshell, I believe that a woman

should look after herself all her life. Let me tell you straight away, I do not like grey hair. A woman has to be very attractive to carry off the grey-hair look. Having said that, I have a few friends whose hair I would never colour, because they simply look amazing with grey hair. Also, I would not recommend dramatic changes from the natural hair colour. If a naturally dark-haired woman wants to switch to blonde, which is a very challenging process to start with, she has to wear makeup all the time, because her whole body, including the skin and eyebrows, remain unchanged. The same is true of a blonde who wants to turn raven black. I have to respect the client’s wish, of course, but I will try to explain to her why that may not be the best idea and why she should consider a lighter shade of brown as a softer version.

- A woman’s hair accentuates her face; it symbolises femininity; sometimes, it can be a skilfully sent message. Throughout history, women have always known how to use this powerful tool. They have been aware of the fact that their hair complements their overall appearance. That is why they have always followed fashion and trends. Just like with the rest of fashion, hairstyles keep on coming

back. The styles popularized by, for example Grace Kelly or Coco Chanel, are still alive. Amy Winehouse is a more recent attempt at a hair fashion comeback, albeit a disastrous one, according to Mrs. Kincl-MurtiÊ.

- Nowadays, when it comes to women’s hair, almost anything goes; from avant-garde styles to all sorts of lengths: short, medium or long. One version of the short tapered hair à la Beckham already existed in the 70’s of last century. However beautiful and flattering it may be, this asymmetrical bob style is not for every type of head shape. As for long hair, which is equally fashionable, we keep forgetting that for 30 years now hair has been blown dry, and that blow driers tend to become more powerful and more likely to make your hair very dry. That is why in my salon I tend to combine drying methods: I start off by blow-drying, and then I apply rollers and finish drying the hair under a hood drier which is three to four times less powerful than a blow drier.

The same Vidal Sassoon who left Paris in 1958 empty-handed made it big in the 60’s when Mary Quant created the mini skirt. He launched the short hair look which became the model Twiggy’s trademark, Mrs. Kincl-MurtiÊ reminds us, and says: CROATIA AIRLINES

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- That was undeniably an avant-garde haircut.

Sassoon did away with hair rollers, an impressive development in itself, and he executed the perfect haircut which made hair look good anyway a woman wore it. Can you appreciate what it meant in 1923 to cut a woman’s hair and show her ankles? I believe that that was the most revolutionary fashion development ever.

Sassoon’s valuable contribution to hairstyling trends was the introduction of a beautiful designer cut which provided for easy care and maintenance. In the 60’s and 70’s, hair became flatter and more natural looking, and if there was any backcombing it served to create volume depending on the shape of the head.

This technique also requires skill and practice, something that students are not given enough of during training. Future hairstylists should master a lot of techniques, including waving and undulation, not only because these styles are experiencing a comeback, but also to complete their range of skills and knowledge.

After the global success in Paris, Mrs. KinclMurtiÊ accepted an invitation from the wellknown Milan-based hairstylist Sergio Sodano

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and worked in his salon just across the road from La Scala. Her clients were ballet dancers and opera divas, and thanks to them she could delight in the performances at La Scala. She was fortunate enough to watch and listen to Maria Callas, who was obviously a difficult act to follow. She also met her share of celebrities while working there. One of her patrons was a famous opera singer, the soprano Renata Tebaldi. Also, one day, Empress Farah Diba Pahlavi’s lady-in-waiting walked into the salon.

She was so pleased with the result that after her third visit she invited her to Teheran to work as the Empress’s personal hairstylist.

- As flattering as the offer was, I turned it down, says Mrs. Kincl-MurtiÊ. I was homesick enough in Milan. My longing for Zagreb and my country was nothing short of physical pain. Although the owner wanted to put me in charge of the salon, at one point I asked myself: Vesna, what are you doing here? You have a salon at home; you have people you love. Then, my brother wrote me a letter, fully expecting me to stay, saying that he was glad I was staying. And then he added: And as for the rest of us... with three points at the end. Those three points brought me back. I had realized that I had to live my life surrounded by the people I loved. And I had a good family. Our parents valued hard work and had raised us children in that spirit; even my once shy brother, nowadays a prominent architect, had to clean the salon as a child.

Mrs. Vesna Kincl-MurtiÊ does not wax eloquent about the year 1957 when she won first prize at the European championship in Paris for her evening hairstyle; neither about 1958, when her evening hairstyle made her the world champion. Why not? We were curious to find out.

- It was a long time ago, but it did mean a lot at the time. We did not have tennis players or footballers, so my mother and I represented Croatia. When I won the European championship the ambassador threw a reception for 300 people in my honour. After Paris I gave up on competing. I turned to other profession-related things. Immediately after the recognition of the Republic of Croatia in 1992, I initiated the establishment of the National Hairdressers’ Federation of Croatia, which became a member of the World Federation of Hairdressing in 1997. I have organized team appearances worldwide and have helped Croatian hairstylists reach the very top. For years I have been engaged in the hairdressing demonstration centre; I am a member of the Management Board of the World Hairdressing Federation (omc)...

During the Homeland War, Mrs. Kincl-MurtiÊ provided hairstyling services to 1,600 displaced women, and never brags about that either.

From some documentary writings we learned

that she was trained in Vienna, amongst other places, by the Viennese hairdresser and world hairstyling champion Ani Sponar. She went on to continue her education in Paris in 1955 and 1956, and she is the recipient of numerous international and national awards and recognitions, including a bronze medal for her contribution to the overall development and advancement of the hairstyling profession and the overall result in competitions, which she received in Berlin in 2000. Together with her mother Branka, in 2001 and 2004, she also won two Gold Hand statues with a charter, the highest award given by the Croatian Chamber of Trades and Crafts. In 2004 in Milan, she received a silver medal for her contribution to the work of the International Hairdressing Federation, and last, but certainly not least, in 2006 she received the Award of the City of Zagreb for traditional crafts. A display case in the salon showcases numerous cups, awards and recognitions received both by her and her mother. In 2007, the Museum of the City of Zagreb staged an exhibition to honour her work under the title The Grand Prix in Hair: The Art of Hairstyling in the Kincl Hairdressing Salon, which was accompanied by a monograph, the best proof of Vesna Kincl-MurtiÊ’s motto: The more one knows, the more one aspires to!

One of the decorative highlights of the Kincl salon, renovated by the late architect Ines FilipoviÊ in 1987 in the art deco style, is the head of the Salona girl, an unfortunate Roman empress whose husband had her murdered.

Mrs. Kincl is absolutely fascinated by her hairstyle, which is reminiscent of melon slices, and for that reason it is known as the melon type hairdo. She recreated the style in 2004 using her daughter as the model. A poster depicting her creation sits proudly in the salon’s window, as its most beautiful trademark. n

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■ Zagreb

Piše/By Vlado RajiÊ Fotografije/Photos Robert RajtiÊ

ZagrebaËki deËki imaju sreÊe. Nitko na ovome svijetu svojim djevojkama, æenama, partnericama, svojim majkama i kÊerima, ne nosi tako lijepe bukete, kitice, struËkove, snopiÊe, puπleke i puπlece, na njemaËkome buschele, kao oni.

The men of Zagreb are really lucky. Nowhere in the world can men bring such beautiful flower arrangements, bouquets, nosegays, posies, puπleki and puπleci, or buschele in German, to their girlfriends, wives, partners, mothers and daughters, as they can in Zagreb.

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R

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apsodija, πto da kaæemo, ako ne i simfonija, ovisno o tome πto tko voli da mu odzvanja u uhu dok nosi miris vrta ili staklenika, zamotan u papir.

Ti cvjetni aranæmani nau se na svakoj trænici, u svakoj cvjeÊarnici, na tezgama sezonskih prodavaËa. Ispod suncobrana i bez njih, uz buku srediπta grada ili u smiraju pokrajnjih ulica i trgova. Ondje kamo zalaze tihi ljudi, zaljubljeni, uplaπeni od poplave vlastitih osjeÊaja.

I baπ zato πto su dostupni, jeftini, a tako prekrasni, zagrebaËki puπleki zasluæuju mjesto u muzeju, spomen u arhivama, a kad bi postojao neki floristiËki hall of fame, i tu bi zauzeli veÊinu mjesta.

ZagrebaËki puπleki ne poznaju godiπnje doba.

Moæda malo viπe narcisa ima s proljeÊa, a malo viπe krizantema u tuænim studenim, hladnim i

sa sitnim bijelim toËkicama nekog korova koji samo u toj kombinaciji dobiva znamen ljepote, paænje, poπtovanja. I onoga koji slaæe i onoga tko Êe sloæeno odnijeti nekomu svomu.

Na rubovima ovdaπnjih trænica cvatu lijehe prelijepih, kako ono kaæu, cvjetnih simfonija. To je ono golemo, prostrano, u kojemu Ëak i uho bez zvuka i oko bez boje nalazi svoju ugodu, strast. Stotine koraka valja ispruæiti, tisuÊama se izmaknuti u prolazu ne bi li se vlastitom oku osigurao bljeπtavi obzor cvjetnih glavica. Tko bi zapamtio to latinsko nazivlje ili iskrenuta lokalna imena cvjetova, bilja, ukrasnih listova.

Od proljetnih zumbula i jaglaca, do jesenskih lijepih kata i cjelogodiπnjih ËuvarkuÊa.

Gotovo se kao krimen Ëini kad netko doe i za nekoliko kuna istrgne buketiÊ ili sadnicu iz sloæene plohe cvijeÊa na ponudu. Jer, uvijek

maglenim danima. Te raznobojne kitice ne poznaju kretanje ciklona i anticiklona iznad grada.

One imaju svoje vrijeme stakleniËke cvatnje i, dakako, i prije svega, imaju ruke koje ih ubiru, slaæu u bukete, kombiniraju boje i zelenilo u prilogu, odreuju papir i svilenu vrpcu da se poveæe sve to.

Ne znam za vas, ali pred πtandom s rapsodijom cvjetnih glavica najviπe gledam te ruke cvjeÊarica. Rapsodija, to je ono otvoreno, raskoπno sviranje instrumenata udruæenih imaginacijom skladatelja. Kad krenu violine, ruπe se oblaci, kiπe dobivaju moÊ poplave. Tako i cvjetovi sloæeni rukama ispucalih dlanova, malo smeih zapeπÊa. Noktiju bez laka, lica bez πminke, nekad pretjerano ozbiljnih dok mole prolaznike da kupe snopiÊ gerbera, pokoju orhideju ili ruæe. O, Boæe, kakvi su to cvjetiÊi

ga se nosi u neki vrt, na balkon, na prozorsku dasku s dvoriπne strane. »ovjek se uæasne od sudbine te cvjetne ljepote koja slijedi onoga Ëasa kad se zavrπi zvonjava novËiÊa izdvojenih za plaÊanje na dnu prodavaËiËina dæepa. Pa neÊe ona, do vraga, traæiti od kupaca da joj kaæu kamo nose cvijet ili buket. I komu. ©to je briga.

Ona je svoju sposobnost za aranæmanom iscrpla u kombinaciji njeænih biljËica, suptilnih glavica i stotina i tisuÊa praπnika koji, Ëak i da ih pËela dodirne, viπe nikad neÊe izroditi neko novo cvijeÊe.

Tako ispada da su buketi kao i ljudi. Upakiraj ih poπto su ubrani na svojemu staniπtu i nikad od njih roda i poroda, ma koliko im se oni kojima su namijenjeni radovali, divili i uæivali u mirisu i bojama.

Jedanput sam iz znatiæelje otiπao na rub grada, tamo gdje se glavna gradska crkva viπe ne vidi, a pogled ne obuhvaÊa ambicioznost gradskih nebodera. Sve dvoriπte do dvoriπta, a u njima cvijeÊe, ono obiËno, jednostavno, koje cvate gotovo cijele godine i koje ne treba zalijevati. I onda ondje gdje se lome sjene crkve, glavne krËme i frizeraja za muπke i æenske, kako lijepo piπe ne staklenom izlogu ∑ cvjeÊarnica. Iza stakla prolaznike gledaju iste one prekrasne kombinacije boja i vrsta. Kao da se pred okom vrte kombinacije golema kaledioskopa.

I nije tu kraj priËe. Ma kakvi. ZagrebaËki puπlek ima svoje mjesto i u ∑ slastiËarnici. Morate znati da imamo i zagrebaËki slatki puπlek.

Naime, postoji Viπnja McMaster. Bila je na izloæbi hlebinskih naivaca i zapazila Rabu-

zinovo platno nazvano Pejsaæ moje majke.

Ako ne znate za sliku, reÊi Êu vam da je gore neπto malo podravskoga krajolika, a dolje, pri dnu slike, sloæeno svakakvo cvijeÊe. I onda je Viπnja McMasters odluËila da od te vizualne poslastice napravi i pravu slatkariju za nepce.

Ubrala je ruæe, maÊuhice, jaglace i ljubiËice, osuπila latice i zatim ih konzervirala rastopljenim πeÊerom.

Ludnica od slastice. A rijeË je o cvjetiÊima koji rastu u Markuπevcu (zapadni dio grada, izlaz prema Hrvatskom zagorju, a da nije autocesta). ©eÊer je kupljen u lokalnoj trgovini. I taj slasni zagrebaËki, zaπeÊereni puπlek otiπao je na sve strane svijeta. Na onoj moskovskoj dobio je medalju. Medalja je stigla i iz Singapura. A puπlek je u svojoj prtljazi u Englesku odnijela i princeza Ana.

Ako katkad i ikad u nekoj prodavaonici sa specijalnom ponudom naiete na neπto πto se zove Sweet Posy of Zagreb, ne trudite se s prijevodom. RijeË je o zagrebaËkome slatkom puπleku.

Odatle do smeih i hrapavih tezgi na kojima se prodaju cvjetni aranæmani zvani puπlek, kitica, snopiÊ, struËak ili buket samo je mali korak.

Tu gdje su gradske boje najjaËe i najblistavije, tu je svitak cijeÊa. Za ljubav, poπtovanje, divljenje i zahvalnost. n

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t is a pure rhapsody, no doubt about it, a symphony even, depending on what type of music you hear chiming in your ear as you carry the scents of gardens or greenhouses wrapped up in paper.

These flower arrangements can be found in

every farmers’ market, in every florist shop, at the stands of every seasonal seller. They can be found under sun umbrellas or just under the sun, amidst the bustle of a city centre or in quiet backstreets and squares. They can even be found where the quiet people wander, the lovers, who are afraid of the power of their own emotions.

It is because they are so easy to come by, inexpensive, and yet so pretty, that the Zagreb puπleki deserve a spot in a museum, in memorial archives, and if there were a florist hall of fame, a place would be reserved for them there as well.

The Zagreb puπleki know no season. In spring, perhaps, one can see more daffodils, whereas chrysanthemums dominate the gloomy, cold and foggy days. These colourful bouquets CROATIA AIRLINES

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care nothing about the cyclones and anticyclones swirling above the city. They know their own time of bloom in their greenhouses.

Of course, most of all, they know the hands that pick them; the hands that put them together into bunches, match their colours with leafy decorations, select the wrapping paper and the silk ribbons to tie them.

I don’t know about you, but when I find myself at a stand with such a rhapsody of flowers, the hands of the flower ladies fascinate me the most. A rhapsody is the broad, exalted sound of instruments joined together by the composer’s imagination. When the violins are unleashed, clouds burst and torrential rains come. That is what it is like with flowers which are put together by rough hands with darkened knuckles. Unpolished fingernails, faces without make-up, sometimes too grave as they ask passers-by to buy a few gerbera, an orchid or roses, oh God, how amazing the roses are, braided with just a touch of tiny white herb dots, which only in that combination do they obtain their remarkable beauty, appreciation and honour; both from the one combining the flowers and from the one taking them to a loved one.

Our farmers’ markets are rimmed by rows of beautiful flower symphonies, as they are called. It is in that immense vast space in which even an ear that cannot hear and an eye that cannot see colour will find pleasure and passion.

Hundreds of steps need to be taken and thousands of people have to be moved out of the way in order to see with one’s own eyes the dazzling horizon of flower heads.

Who could remember all the Latin nomenclature or the skewed local names of flowers, plants and decorative leaves; from the spring hyacinths and primroses to the annual asters and houseleeks?

It is practically an abomination when someone, leaving just a few kunas, rips a small bouquet or a potted plant out of this arranged carpet of flowers; whereas, they will always carry it away to a garden, a balcony or a backyard window pane. Terrifying to think of the dismal fate awaiting this floral beauty, starting from the moment all the coins settle with a chink at the bottom of the florist’s pocket. Of course she is not going to ask people where they are taking her flowers. Or to whom they are taking them. That is none of her business.

Her job was done once she arranged the fragile plants, tenuous heads and hundreds and thousands of stamen which, even if touched by a bee, will never again give life to a new flower.

And so, it seems, bouquets are like people.

If you pick them from their habitat and pack them up they will never procreate, no matter how much joy, awe and pleasure they inspire with their fragrance and colours.

Once, on a whim, I went to the very outskirts of the city, where one can no longer catch a glimpse of the largest city church or the tall buildings striving towards the sky. I found numerous front yards filled with flowers; ordinary, simple, blooming all year long and not requiring any watering at all. And then, where the shadows of the church, the pub and the men’s and women’s hair salon meet ∑ there was a flower shop. All those same gorgeous colours and varieties were being gazed at from behind glass by the passers-by. It was like a gigantic kaleidoscope swirling in front of your eyes.

The story does not end here. Oh, no. The Zagreb puπlek also has its place in ∑ the pastry shop. You must know that there also exists the sweet Zagreb puπlek.

There once was a woman, Viπnja McMaster. She once went to see an exposition by Hlebine naive painters and there she noticed a painting by Rabuzin, titled My Mother’s Landscape. In case you haven’t seen the painting, let me tell you that the painting portrays the Podravina landscape in the upper part of the canvas and various flowers in the lower part. So, Mrs McMaster decided she would turn this sweet for the eyes into a real delicacy for the palate. She picked roses, pansies, primroses and violets. Then she dried their petals and preserved them in melted sugar.

That was one wicked sweet. The flowers she used grow in Markuπevac (on the western outskirts of the city, towards Hrvatsko Zagorje, but away from the speedway). The sugar in question was purchased at the local convenience store. And this delicious, sweet Zagreb puπlek has travelled all around the world. It won a medal in Moscow and another medal arrived from Singapore. Even Princess Anne took a puπlek back home in her luggage.

If you ever enter a delicacy shop and come across something called the Sweet Posy of Zagreb, don’t bother with translating the name. This is, in fact, the sweet Zagreb puπlek.

And from there to the dirty, rough stands that sell flower arrangements called puπlek, bunches, posies or bouquets is but a short distance. Where the city colours are their keenest and brightest you will find a small bunch of flowers - to express love, respect, admiration and appreciation. n CROATIA AIRLINES

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Piše/By Rene BakaloviÊ Fotografije/Photos Arhiva Oleoteka Uje i Wine & Gastro akademija

U samo nekoliko godina Hrvatska, u svjetskim okvirima mali proizvoaË maslinovih ulja, pretvorila se u veliko iznenaenje: u zemlju u kojoj je potraga za maslinarskom izvrsnoπÊu dosegla neoËekivanu razinu.

During a few years only, Croatia as a small olive oil producer on the international market has turned out to be a big surprise: a country where the search for olive oil excellence has reached an unexpected level.

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ip najveÊega hrvatskog pjesnika Marka MaruliÊa izradio je najveÊi hrvatski kipar Ivan MeπtroviÊ. U svibnju ove godine, usred monumentalne Dioklecijanove palaËe u Splitu, na prekrasnom trgu, MaruliÊ je osvanuo okruæen najdragocjenijim nacionalnim blagom, maslinama. Mlade sadnice kao ukras i pod njima reprezentativni odabir ulja, onih koja su posljednjih godina iznenadila svjetske struËnjake i ljubitelje prvorazerdnih maslinovih ulja.

Ovo je druga godina kako se u Splitu organizira tjedan maslinovih ulja. U Splitu, naime, æivi najveÊi broj maslinara koji u zaleu grada i na dalmatinskim otocima njeguju i obnavljaju svoje maslinike. Maslina i maslinovo ulje pretvaraju se sve viπe u moderni identitet grada ukorijenjen u tisuÊljetnoj tradiciji. Ta tisuÊljetna baπtina neposredno je vidljiva. Dalmatinci, Primorci i Istrani i danas Ëuvaju niz maslina starih viπe stotina godina.

A u tom tjednu u poËetku svibnja SpliÊani i turisti koji prou Dioklecijanovom palaËom, i danas æivom gradskom jezgrom, mogu besplatno kuπati i povoljno kupiti najbolja hrvatska maslinova ulja. Samo nekoliko koraka od MaruliÊeva spomenika prva je hrvatska oleoteka Uje, koja je u meuvremenu prerasla u lanac delikatesnih trgovina. Upravo pod pokroviteljstvom i u organizaciji tvtke Uje osmiπljen je i pokrenut splitski tjedan maslinovih ulja. Uje i struËni tim okupljen oko te tvrtke, uz trgovinu, bavi se i popularizacijom i promidæbom velike mediteranske tekovine sazdane u maslinovom ulju.

U proljeÊe u Splitu, a ujesen, nakon berbe u zagrebaËkom Kaptol centru, u okruæenju Wine & Gastro Akademije, prireuje festival maslinovih ulja sa sliËnim programom degustacija, povoljnih cjenovnih ponuda, popularizatorskih i struËnih skupova. To su susreti na kojima maslinari svoja ulja neposredno predstavljaju πirokoj publici, a vrhunska maslinova ulja stjeËu nove poklonike.

U takvim je prilikama i prvi svjetski autoritet za maslinova ulja Marco Oreggia doπao u Hrvatsku da oda priznanje domaÊim maslinarima.

U njegovu vodiËu, u kojemu su popisani i ocijenjeni najbolji svjetski maslinari, zastupljenost hrvatskih uljara fascinantna je i ustrajno svake godine sve veÊa.

U samo nekoliko godina Hrvatska, u svjetskim okvirima mali proizvoaË maslinovih ulja, pretvorila se u veliko iznenaenje: u zemlju u kojoj je potraga za maslinarskom izvrsnoπÊu dosegla neoËekivanu razinu. ZaËuujuÊi broj autohtonih sorti (svake godine otkrije se poneka nova, tako da joπ nije moguÊe sa sigurnoπÊu reÊi koliko ih je ukupno) i mnogo uvezenih sorti, koje su se vrlo lijepo skrasile u Dalmaciji i Istri, omoguÊilo je maslinarima da træiπtu ponude prekrasno

odnjegovana i iznijansirana ulja koristeÊi se najsuvremenijom tehnologijom.

To bogatstvo raznovrsnosti, pak, potaknulo je najbolje hrvatske kuhare da osmisle recepte posveÊene pojedinomu sortnom ulju ili lijepo usklaenoj kupaæi. U najboljim hrvatskim restoranima sada se uz jelovnike i vinske karte gostu nude i karte odabranih maslinovih ulja. UpuÊeni gosti viπe nisu iznenaeni kad im konobari, uz Ëokoladni desert, predloæe maslinovo ulje sorte bjelica.

Upravo po tom trendu suradnje vrsnih ugostitelja, uljara, kuhara i sommeliera Hrvatska danas prednjaËi u svijetu. »ak je i japanska tekovina sashimija u Hrvatskoj unaprijeena idejom da se uz najbolju svjeæu sirovu ribu, πkoljke, rakove i mekuπce nude i probrana najbolja maslinova ulja, istraæujuÊi obiljeæja pojedinih sorti ulja i uz njih odgovarajuÊih vina.

Ovakvi ekspertni gastronomski timovi uvjerljivo brane samouvjereni slogan koji domaÊi promotori posljednjih godina πire svijetom: Hrvatska, zemlja najboljih maslinovih ulja. n

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he statue of the greatest Croatian poet Marko MaruliÊ was made by the greatest sculptor Ivan MeπtroviÊ.

In May this year, in the middle of the monumental Diocletian palace in Split at the beautiful square MaruliÊ it appeared surrounded by the most precious national treasure, olives.

Young seeds as the decoration and below them a representative selection of types of oil, the ones that during the last few years have surprised international experts and lovers of the first-class olive oil.

This is the second year that a week of olive oil is organized in Split. In Split, there is a largest number of olive growers that in the hinterland of the City and on the Dalmatian islands grow and cultivate their olive groves. Olive and olive oil more and more turn out to be a modern identity of the City rooted in the thousand year long tradition. Such millennium heritage is directly visible. Dalmatians, Primorje citizens and Istrians even today have been looking after the series of olives for hundred of years.

At the beginning of May, the Split citizens and tourists that pass through the Diocletian palace, the city core that is alive even today, may try and buy the best Croatian olive oil of different types at low prices free of charge. Only a few steps away from the MaruliÊ monument there is the first Croatian oil shop Uje that has in the meanwhile turned into a chain of delicacy shops. The Split week of olive oil has been initiated under the auspice of and organized by the company Uje. Uje and an expert team gathered around this company are not only engaged in trade but also in popularization and

promotion of the great Mediterranean heritage founded on the olive oil. The festival of olive oil with a similar program of tasting, low price offers, popularization and expert meetings is organized in spring in Split and in autumn at the Zagreb Kaptol center after the picking of olives whereas Wine & Gastro Academy participates in it. These are gatherings where olive growers directly present their oil to the wide audience and top olive oil types attract new lovers.

In such circumstances the first international authority for olive oil Marco Oreggia came to Croatia to award recognition to the Croatian olive growers. In his guide that includes a list and evaluation of the best international olive growers, the presence of the Croatian oil producers is fascinating and larger every year.

During a few years only, Croatia as a small olive oil producer on the international market has turned out to be a big surprise: a country where the search for olive oil excellence has reached an unexpected level. A surprising number of autochthonic types (every year a new one is discovered, so that it is impossible to say with certainty how many of them there are) and a large number of imported types that nicely settled down in Dalmatia and Istria enabled the olive growers to offer a beautifully grown and refined oil using the state-of-the-art technology. This abundance of varieties has inspired the best cooks to create recipes dedicated to a specific type of oil or nicely decorated coupage. The best Croatian restaurants now besides the carte and wine cards also offer cards of selected olive oil to their guests. Better informed guests are no longer surprised when waiters offer them whitefish type olive oil with the chocolate dessert.

Croatia is a leading country in the world owing to a cooperation of excellent caterers, oil producers, cooks and sommeliers. Even the Japanese heritage sashimi has been advanced by the idea that best selected oil types are offered with the best fresh fish, shells, crabs and molluscs accompanied by suitable wines.

Such expert gastronomic teams definitely defend their self-convinced slogan that the local promoters have been spreading during the last few years: Croatia, the country of best olive oil types. n

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BEZ KAPITALNIH ULAGANJA DO FUNKCIONALNOG UREDA WITHOUT CAPITAL INVESTMENTS TO A FUNCTIONAL OFFICE

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spjeπni poslovni ljudi znaju kako recesija moæe biti jedinstvena prigoda za nove poslovne izazove, pokretanje vlastitoga posla iz snova ili pak za proπirenje postojeÊega. Naime, osim πto moæe posluæiti kao pokazatelj zastarjelih razmiπljanja, na recesiju moæemo gledati i kao na smjer koji pokazuje nove moguÊnosti za rast i razvoj.

Najbolji nam primjer pruæa razdoblje Velike gospodarske krize iz trdesetih godina kada su se u ekonomskim (ne)prilikama mnogi obogatili, poneki zahvaljujuÊi iskljuËivo svjeæim idejama.

NajveÊe su poduzetniËke brige pri ulasku u poslovanje svakako kapitalni troπkovi ulaganja te razliËiti rizici, no oni se mogu znatno smanjiti na temelju inovativnih ponuda na træiπtu.

Jeste li, primjerice, znali da moæete unajmiti informatiËku uredsku opremu i njezino odræavanje? Takvu uslugu svojim korisnicima nudi vodeÊi pruæatelj telekomunikacijskih usluga T-HT, i to od samo 198 kn na mjesec.

Cjelokupna ponuda ukljuËuje najam osobnih raËunala, monitora, pisaËa i viπenamjenskih ureaja (skener, telefaks i fotokopirni ureaj u jednomu), odnosno onoliko komponenata koliko procijenite da vam treba. Niste li sigurni u koliËinu i vrstu opreme kakvu vaπ ured, mora sadræavati, moæete se obratiti struËnome timu za podrπku, koji Êe vam preporuËiti optimalna rjeπenja.

Svako raËunalo dolazi s operativnim sustavom Microsoft Windows, antivirusnom zaπtitom, programom za sigurnosnu pohranu podataka te programom za administriranje rada raËunala na daljinu.

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Usluga vam tako omoguÊuje smanjivanje kapitalnih troπkova unaprijed, smanjivanje rizika kupnje te kontrolu troπkova − uz fiksne mjeseËne naknade.

Cijena naknade pokriva i troπkove postavljanja te odræavanje opreme, potpunu antivirusnu zaπtitu i sigurnosnu pohranu podataka (backup) te struËnu podrπku kontaktnoga centra 24 sata na dan i sedam dana u tjednu.

Moæe li jednostavnije?

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Sigurnost prije svega BuduÊi da je u svakoj vrsti poslovanja arhiviranje jedna od veoma bitnih komponenata, usluga InformatiËka oprema nudi i redovitu sigurnosnu pohranu podataka. Tako se omoguÊuje automatska pohrana podataka na posluæitelje za sigurnosnu pohranu, a u sluËaju potrebe podacima se uvijek može iznova koristiti. ZahvaljujuÊi ovom sustavu izbjegavate troπkove nabave vanjskih diskova i kupujete miran san.

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Iznos mjeseËne naknade od samo 48 kn moæe se iskoristiti na pozive, poruke te prijenos 100 MB podataka (unutar Hrvatske), a neiskoriπteni

se iznos prenosi u sljedeÊi mjesec. Prema potrebi usluga se moæe i nadograditi dodatnim podatkovnim opcijama, pa Êe vam primjerice opcija web’n’walk M osigurati dodatnih 250 MB prometa, a web’n’walk S 125 MB. Ponuda je proπirena i moguÊnoπÊu ukljuËenja dodatnih prikljuËaka, no bez obzira na njihov broj uslugu uvijek plaÊate samo jednim raËunom, a bit Êete obavijeπteni SMS porukom kad potroπite iznos svoje tarife Flex Business Start.

U promotivnoj ponudi, koja vrijedi do 31. srpnja, svaki korisnik dobiva joπ 200 besplatnih minuta za razgovore unutar T-Mobile mreæe.

Usluga po povoljnim cijenama, dakako, nudi i mobilne ureaje, a viπe moæete saznati na www.t-mobile.hr

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uccessful business people know that the recession may be a unique opportunity for new business challenges, starting of own dream business, or expansion of an existing one. Namely, apart from considering the recession as an indicator of outdated mindsets, it can be also viewed as a direction showing new opportunities for growth and development. The best example is the major economic crisis that took place in the 30-ies, when many got rich thanks to (bad) economic situation, some of them owing their success only to fresh ideas.

The greatest concerns of entrepreneurs when they are starting a new business are, for sure, capital expenditures and different risks, but they

can be significantly lower thanks to innovative offers on the market. For example, did you know that you can rent computer equipment and its maintenance? T-HT, the leading provider of telecommunications services, is offering such service to its customers at only HRK 198 a month. The whole offer includes lease of personal computers, monitors, printers, and multi-functional devices (scanner, facsimile, and photocopying machine in one), i.e. as many components as are, in your estimation, necessary. If you are not sure of the quantity and type of equipment your office should have, you can contact our expert team for support, which will recommend the optimal solution.

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Security above all Since archiving is one of exceptionally important components in any type of business, the service Computer Equipment offers regular backup, enabling automatic data backup for backup servers and, where necessary, data can always be reused. If you opt for this system, you can avoid the cost of procuring external disks and put your mind at ease.

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newly-established companies - Flex Business Start tariff.

The amount of the monthly fee is only HRK 48 and can be used for calls, messages, and transmission of data up to 100 MB (in Croatia), while the unused part is transferred to the following month. Where necessary, the service may be upgraded through additional data options. For example, the option web’n’walk M provides additional 250 MB and web’n’walk S provides additional 125 MB of traffic.

The offer is extended through the possibility of including additional connections, but regardless of their number, the service is paid by means of one invoice only and you will receive an SMS when you have spent the amount of your Flex Business Start tariff.

During the promotional offer, which is valid by 31 July, each customer will receive freeof-charge 200 minutes for calls within the T-Mobile network. The service at favorable prices offers also mobile devices. For more information please visit www.t-mobile.hr

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■ POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT

ANNE GREGORY NAJPOZNATIJA BRITANSKA PROFESORICA ODNOSA S JAVNOSTIMA DOKTORICA - ALI NE SPIN THE BEST KNOWN UK PROFESSOR OF PUBLIC RELATIONS DOCTOR? YES. SPIN DOCTOR? NO. Piπe/By Majda Tafra-VlahoviÊ

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Majda Tafra-VlahoviÊ

a meunarodnoj konferenciji DubrovaËki medijski dani o obrazovanju za medije i odnose s javnoπÊu prva profesorica odnosa s javnostima u Velikoj Britaniji, dr. sc. Anne Gregory odræala je nadahnuto predavanje o obrazovanju za struËnjake odnosa s javnostima u Ujedinjenom Kraljevstvu, industriji koja obrne πest i pol milijuna funti na godinu. Osobito je istaknula viπestrukost uloge tih struËnjaka Ëija vrijednost i dalje raste na træiπtima: oni su stanoviti druπtveni orijentir, korporacijski navigatori, ali i katalizatori izmeu razliËitih dionika i primjenjitelji strateπkih odluka i orijentira.

Anne Gregory, sada prorektorica SveËiliπta Leeds Metropolitan, redovita je profesorica odnosa s javnostima i srodnih predmeta te ravnateljica Centra za studije odnos s javnostima. Na sadaπnjem poslu visokoga sveuËiliπnog rukovoditelja takoer savjetuje o strateπkoj

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komunikaciji i skrbi o misiji razvijanja izvornih znanstvenih istraæivanja u podruËju odnosa s javnostima, a takoer potiËe i istraæivanja i konzultantske usluge eksperata na sveuËiliπtu za visokopozicionirane klijente kao πto su kabinet premijera, ministarstvo zdravstva i neke vodeÊe multinacionalne kompanije poput Nokije ili Tesca.

Karijeru u odnosima s javnostima Anne Gregory poËela je kao praktiËarka u odnosima s javnostima u uglednim kompanijama i institucijama, a za taj rad dobila je mnoge nagrade. Potaknuta spoznajama o neminovnoj potencijalnoj ekspanziji struke, utemeljila je svojedobno Public Relations Group, sada najveÊi u Europi, i Centar za studije odnosa s javnostima, sada meunarodno priznat kao jedan od vodeÊih istraæivaËkih centara. Ta svestrana djelatnica iz prakse i akademskih krugova, koja je svojedobno bila jedina osoba s titulom profesora odnosa s javnostima u Velikoj Britaniji, objavila je mnoge radove, struËne knjige i istraæivanja. Viπestruko je nagraivana nacionalnim i meunarodnim nagradama za velika postignuÊa u profesiji i akademskom radu te dala kljuËni doprinos u priznavanju profesije odnosa s javnostima u Velikoj Britaniji i u Europi. U vrijeme kad je bila na Ëelu Instituta za odnose s javnostima u Londonu, izborila se za struËnu akreditaciju te institut, koji se sada zove ovlaπtenim institutom, izdaje akreditacije o ovlaπtenju za praksu u odnosima s javnostima.

Za praksu u profesiji odnosa s javnostima potrebno je znanje, sposobnost ali i integritet osobe, a to je ono o Ëemu mnogi ljudi dvoje kad su posrijedi struËnjaci za odnose s javnostima, koje katkad zovu i spin doktorima. Anne

Gregory je meu kolegama profesionalcima poznata kao javna osoba koja prije svega inzistira na etiËnosti profesije. Za nju je izraz spin doktor pogrdan jer govori o tome da profesionalci odnosa s javnostima ne poπtuju istinu i iskrivljuju je, a to je, istini za volju, Ëesto i miπljenje opÊe javnosti o profesijii odnosa s javnostima, i u Ujedinjenom Kraljevstvu a osobito u Hrvatskoj, gdje takvo miπljenje, moglo bi se reÊi, prevladava. Razlozi su za to, po miπljenu profesorice Gregory, i u kompleksnosti suvremenog svijeta bremenitog kontradikcijama, viπeznaËnostima i nesigurnostima, a praksa je odnosa s javnostima, slikovito, baπ u toËki u kojoj se sijeku svi suprostavljeni interesi.

- Zaista se - naglaπava Anne Gregory - problemi odnosa javnostima mogu definirati u smislu kolizije ili potencijalne kolizije interesa, pa je istodobno sluæenje interesu klijenta i javnom interesu na izgled nemoguÊa misija za praktiËara odnosa s javnostima.

Profesionalce odnosa s javnostima u poslovnom svijetu mnogi doæivljavaju kao osobe koje πtite interese i postupke organizacija za koje se ionako smatra da su previπe utjecajne u druπtvu, odnosno brane neπto πto se ne moæe obraniti i daju glas u javnosti onima koji veÊ jesu moÊni, dok istodobno, naglaπava Anne Gregory, sav posao koji profesionalci obave za javni interes, za stotine kampanja za plemenitu svrhu i sliËno, praktiËki ostaje nezapaæen. To je u neku ruku nelogiËno, jer izvan svijeta politike i gospodarstva, odnosi s javnostima ostavljaju traga praktiËno na svim podruËjima. Naime, graanima su potrebne mnoge informacije koje odnosi s javnostima posreduju te odgovaraju za sadræaj i prijam doslovce milijun poruka.

Kako na takve kritike reagiraju profesionalci odnosa s javnostima? Tri su moguÊe vrste reakcija prema Anne Gregory. Prva bi se mogla imenovati kao ne u naπem klubu gdje se, moæda s pravom, bitno razlikuju profesionalci odnosa s javnostima od spin doktora i propagandista koji se koriste publicitetima kao jedinim alatom. Ali, problem je, u tome πto javnost ne zapaæa te razlike pa je na profesionalcima da taj razlaz izmeu jednih i drugih uËine vidljivijim jer percepcija jest stvarnost.

Druga je moguÊa reakcija igra s imenima. To je sluËaj kad se profesionalci odnosa s javnostima odriËu imena odnosi s javnostima i uzimaju druga, poput korporacijske komunikacije, upravljanje reputacijom ili korporacijski odnosi.

Nevolja je, tvrdi Anne Gregory, πto baπ izraz odnosi s javnostima najbolje opisuje ono πto profesionalci u odnosima s javnostima zaista rade. A, uostalom, neÊe proÊi dugo pa Êe i ti

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drugi izrazi biti diskreditirani ako praksa odnosa s javnostima koji se zovu drugaËije, ne bude na profesionalnoj razini, nego bude manipulacija.

I, napokon, postoji praksa stalne samoobrane kad profesionalci pokuπavaju objasniti javnostima Ëime se oni zaista bave, no dosad nisu u tome bili osobito uspjeπni, i joπ i danas, kad ljudi Ëuju izraz odnosi sa javnostima, ne misle na one ljude za koje bi profesionalci htjeli da im budu uzor, nego upravo na one koji to nisu.

U kontekstu te poznate ironije kako baπ struËnjaci za reputaciju imaju zapravo ozbiljan problem s reputacijom, savjet Anne Gregory da se pokuπaju s njim nositi na obje razine, osobnoj i javno druπtvenoj Ëini se jedini logiËan izbor. Ta putnica Croatia Airlinesa, koja se posljednjih godina rado vraÊa u Hrvatsku i radi posla i radi odmora, kao rijetko koji istaknuti profesionalac u odnosima s javnostima upravo i sama primjenjuje ono o Ëemu poduËava druge. U akademskim i profesionalnim krugovima poznata je po upornoj misiji u obrani digniteta profesije kojoj, valja se sloæiti s njom, ime odnosi s javnostima zaista najbolje pristaje. n

A

nne Gregory, the first UK Professor of public relation had been invited to lecture on education for the media and public relations at an international conference held in Dubrovnik - The Dubrovnik Media Days. She delivered an inspiring lecture on the education of public relations experts in the UK, where the industry’s annual turnover is 6.5 million Pounds. She pointed out that the market demand for public relations experts is constantly on the rise as they continue to play multiple roles in society. They act as social role models, corporate navigators, catalysts among diverse stakeholders and as implementers of strategic decisions and guidelines.

Anne Gregory is currently the Pro-ViceChancellor of the Leeds Metropolitan University, a full-time professor of public relations and related subjects and the Director of the Centre for Public Relations Studies. As a highly positioned faculty member, she also does a lot of consultancy work on strategic communications; she pursues the mission to develop original scientific research in the area of public relations, and also encourages other experts at the University to do research and consultancy work for high profile clients such as the UK Cabinet Office, Department of Health, National Health Service and some leading multinational companies such as Nokia and Tesco.

Originally a public relations practitioner, Anne Gregory had started her career working in high profile companies and institutions where she received industry awards and recognitions for 156

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her public relations programmes. As she had soon realized that the profession had a vast scope for expansion she established the Public Relations Group, now the largest in Europe.

She had also created the Centre for Public Relations Studies, now recognised as one of the leading research centres internationally.

This versatile expert and academic who was at one point the only professor of public relations in UK, is also a widely published author of professional articles, books and research papers, and the recipient of national and international awards for exceptional achievements in turning the practice of public relations into a profession in UK and Europe. While she headed the Institute for Public Relations in London, owing to her efforts, the Institute was awarded professional accreditation and is now authorized to accredit professionals in the area of public relations.

To become a public relations practitioner, one needs to have knowledge, skills and integrity.

The last quality is something that a lot of people worry about and have their doubts when it comes to public relations professionals sometimes also referred to as spin doctors.

Among her colleagues, Anne Gregory enjoys the reputation as a public figure who primarily insists on ethical and professional behaviour.

For her, the term spin doctor sounds derogatory as it implies that public relations professionals tend to show disregard for the truth or even distort it. Truth be told, this view is also partly shared by the general public in the United Kingdom and even more so in Croatia where this opinion actually prevails. According to Professor Gregory, this may be explained by the complexity of modern world riddled with contradictions, ambiguities and uncertainties. The public relations profession may be described as profession acting at the point where all confronting interests clash. She says that the problems of public relations may be defined in terms of conflict or potential conflict of interest wherein serving the interest of a client while at the same time serving public interest seems to be mission impossible for a public relations practitioner.

In the corporate world, public relations professionals are perceived by many as those who protect the interests and actions of such organizations which are thought to be already too influential; in other words, they defend the non-defendable and give a public voice to those who are already loud and powerful. At the same time, says Professor Gregory, there is so much that public relations professionals do to serve the public interest, hundreds of campaigns with noble causes which go practically unnoticed. There is almost no logic

to that, since apart from the world of politics and business aside, public relations impact virtually every area of human life. Citizens need information and public relations services are those that mediate and take responsibility for the contents and reception of literally millions of messages.

How do public relations professionals react to such criticism? According to Professor Gregory, there are three possible types of reaction. The first one could be best described as not in our club meaning that there is indeed a big difference between public relations professionals and spin doctors and propaganda wielders who use publicity as their only tool.

The problem, however, lies in the fact that the public fails to spot the difference between the two, so it is up to the professionals to make that distinction as visible as possible because, as she says, perception is reality.

The second possible reaction is toying with names. In this case, public relations professionals renounce the name public relations and adopt other names such as corporate communications, reputation management or corporate relations. The trouble in that is that no other term describes the profession better than the term public relations. Anyway, if the business of public relations practising under another name becomes sheer manipulation rather than highly professional work it will not take long before the other names and titles also become discredited.

And finally, there is the practice of constant self-defence; this means that professionals are constantly trying to explain to the general public what is it that they actually do. So far, they have not been very successful in their efforts. Whenever people hear the words public relations what immediately comes to their minds are not those hardworking people whom the true professionals wish to follow as their role models but precisely those who are anything but that. In the context of this ironical situation wherein reputation experts suffer a major reputation problem, Anne Gregory’s advice to them is to try and deal with the problem at two possible levels − personal and public as the only logical choice.

This Croatia Airlines passenger who flies occasionally to Croatia both for business and pleasure is one of the rare high-profile public relations professionals who practices what she preaches. In academic and professional circles she has become known and respected for her persistent mission to defend the dignity of the profession which, one has to agree with Professor Gregory, deserves to bear the name public relations as the one that suits it best. n

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KALENDAR DOGA–ANJA U HRVATSKOJ LIPANJ/JUNE Osijek OsjeËke ljetne noÊi/Osijek Summer Nights (26.-27. lipanj/26-27 June) Scenske i glazbene predstave za djecu i odrasle/Theatrical and musical performances for children and adults Pula Pula Superiorum (25.-26. lipanj/25-26 June) Festival staroga Rima/Festival of the Ancient Rome Ulice Pule i Arena/Streets of Pula and Arena Rijeka RijeËke ljetne noÊi/Rijeka Summer Nights (30. lipanj-24. srpanj/30 June-24 July) Izvedbe klasiËnih drama, novijih dramskih tekstova, koncerti klasiËne glazbe, uliËni teatar, koncerti estradnih zvijezda/Classical and contemporary plays, classical music concerts, street theatre, pop concerts Zadar Zadarsko kazaliπno ljeto/Zadar Theatre Summer (29. lipanj-4. kolovoz/29 June-4 August) Zagreb T-Mobile InMusic Festival (21.-23. lipanj/21-23 June) Jarun SRPANJ/JULY Dubrovnik Libertas Film Festival (2.-6. srpanj/2-6 July) Festival nezavisnog filma na otvorenom /Open-air independent film festival

Opatija Liburnia Jazz Festival (2.- 4. srpanj/2-4 July) Ljetna pozornica/Summer theatre

na ulicama Dioklecijanove palaËe/ Prominent opera, drama and ballet performances and exhibitions on the streets of Diocletian’s Palace

Osijek OsjeËko ljeto kulture/Osijek Summer of Culture (29. lipanj-21. srpanj/29 June-21 July) Kazaliπne predstave, umjetniËki performansi, izloæbe, koncerti, knjiæevne i filmske veËeri/Theatre and artistic performances, exhibitions, concerts, literary and film nights OsjeËka Tvra /Osijek Fort

Zadar The Garden Festival (2.-8. srpanj/2-8 July) Veliki meunarodni festival popularne glazbe u prekrasnom ambijentu 900 godina starog sela PetrËane/Big international pop music festival in the beautiful surroundings of the 900 year old village of PetrËane

Pula 16. PUF Meunarodni festival alternativnih kazaliπta/16th PUF International Alternative Theatre Festival (1.-5. srpanj /1-5 July) Karlo Rojc i gradski trgovi/Karlo Rojc and the city squares 57. Pula film festival/57th Pula Film Festival (10.-24. srpanj/10-24 July) Festival igranog filma, projekcije domaÊih i meunarodnih filmskih noviteta/Projections of domestic and international film novelties Arena Media Mediterranea 12 (21.-24. srpanj/21-24 July) Festival ekspresivne kulture i kreativnih medija/Expressive culture and creative media festival Karlo Rojc, Monumenti, Muzil 8. Seasplash/8th Seasplash (22.-25. srpanj/22-25 July) Festival regge glazbe/Reggae Festival Monumenti 12. Motovun film festival/12th Motovun Film Festival (26.-30. srpanj /26-30 July) Rijeka Legendary Lee Miller (1. srpanj-31. kolovoz/1 July-31 August) Izloæba velike umjetnice fotografije 20. stoljeÊa/Exhibition of a great photo artist of the 20th century Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti/Museum of modern and contemporary art

DubrovaËke ljetne igre/Dubrovnik Summer Festival (10. srpanj-25. kolovoz/10 July-25 August) Najstariji i najugledniji hrvatski festival klasiËne glazbe i scenske umjetnosti s eminentnim domaÊim i meunarodnim umjetnicima /The oldest and the most prestigious Croatian festival of classical music and theatre with many eminent Croatian and international artists 158

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS IN CROATIA

Split Lord of the dance (11. srpanj/11 July) Plesni spektakl/Dance spectacle Spaladium Arena Splitsko ljeto/Split Summer (14. srpanj-14. kolovoz/14 July-14 August) Prominentne operne izvedbe, dramske i baletne predstave te izloæbe

Glazbene veËeri u Svetom Donatu /Musical Nights in St. Donat church (5. srpanj-11. kolovoz/5 July-11 August) Koncerti glazbe srednjeg vijeka, renesanse i ranog baroka/Concerts of music of the Middle Ages, Renaissance and early Baroque Koncert Seal/Concert Seal (14. srpanj/14 July) Jazine Koncert Natalie Cole/Concert Natalie Cole (23. srpanj/23 July) Forum NoÊ punog miseca/Night of the Full Moon (26. srpanj/26 July) Proslava sretnog suæivota kulture otoËana i stanovnika obalnog podruËja na zadarskoj rivi uz lokalne specijalitete i kvalitetna vina/The celebration of the happy coexistence of the island and coastal areas cultures on the Zadar waterfront with the local specialities and a quality wine Kalelargart 2010.

(29.-31. srpanj/29-31 July) Festival uliËne umjetnosti/Street art festival Narodni trg, Kalelarga, Forum Zagreb Rokaj Fest (1.- 4. srpanj/1-4 July) Festival urbane i rock-glazbe/Festival of urban and rock music Jarun ZagrebaËke ljetne veËeri/Zagreb Summer Nights (2.-31. srpanj/2-31 July) Festival glazbe na ulicama Gornjega grada/Music festival on the streets of the Upper town Koncert Leonard Cohen/Concert Leonard Cohen (25. srpanj/25 July) Arena Zagreb

KOLOVOZ / AUGUST Dubrovnik Juænodalmatinska regata/South Dalmatian Regatta (6.-8. kolovoz/6-8 August) JedriliËarska regata/Sailing Regatta OrebiÊ-Pomena-Proæura-Dubrovnik Osijek OsjeËke ljetne noÊi/Osijek Summer Nights (28.-29. kolovoz/28-29 August) Scenske i glazbene predstave za djecu i odrasle diljem grada/Theatre and music shows for children and adults all around town Split Deset dana Dioklecijana/Ten Days of Dioklecian (20.-30. kolovoz/20-30 August) Proslava 1700 godina grada vraÊanjem u antiËku proπlost/1700 year anniversary of the city by reminiscing the Roman past Zagreb Meunarodni festival kazaliπta lutaka PIF/International Festival of Puppet Theatre PIF (28. kolovoz-3. rujan/28 August-3 September)

RUJAN / SEPTEMBER Dubrovnik Festival Julian Rachlin & Friends (1.-15. rujan/1-15 September) Festival komorne glazbe/Chamber music festival Zagreb I.A.A.F. Meunarodni atletski miting/I.A.A.F. International Athletic Meeting (1. rujan/1 September)

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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 162 NOVOSTI/NEWS 167 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST/ LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED 170 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU/ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 173 FLOTA/FLEET 175 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA/A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 177 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB/ZAGREB AIRPORT 178 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI/ WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 180 ADRESE/ADDRESSES CROATIA AIRLINES

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Croatia Airlines na Facebooku

U æelji da se πto viπe pribliæimo naπim putnicima, u oæujku ove godine otvorili smo naπu sluæbenu stranicu na druπtvenoj mreæi Facebook.

Na stranici moæete pronaÊi naπe novosti, sve o promidæbenim akcijama, spotove i fotogaleriju. Pridruæite se rastuÊem broju prijatelja Croatia Airlinesa, postavite nam pitanje o bilo Ëemu πto vas zanima o Croatia Airlinesu i naπ tim Facebooka odgovorit Êe vam u najkraÊem roku.

Vidimo se na Facebooku!

Croatia Airlines on Facebook

With the desire to keep an even closer relationship with our passengers, last March we launched our official page on the social networking site Facebook.

Visit our page to find news, information about promotional activities, videos and photo galleries. Join the growing number of friends of Croatia Airlines; post any questions about Croatia Airlines and our Facebook team will respond in the shortest possible time.

See you on Facebook!

Barcelona

I u ovogodiπnjemu ljetnom redu letenja Croatia Airlines vas izravno iz Zagreba vodi u prekrasnu Barcelonu svakog utorka, Ëetvrtka i nedjelje.

Barcelona je lijepa luka i najkozmopolitskiji grad ©panjolske, idealno odrediπte ljubiteljima moderne arhitekture, dobre hrane i uzbudljivoga noÊnog æivota. Odlikuje se blagom mediteranskom klimom, a zaljubljeni svakako trebaju provjeriti zaπto je Barcelona uvrπtena meu deset najromantiËnijih gradova u Europi.

Barcelona

This year once again, Croatia Airlines’ summer flight schedule features direct flights from Zagreb to beautiful Barcelona, on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. Barcelona is an attractive harbour and the most cosmopolitan Spanish city; an ideal destination for lovers of modern architecture, gourmet food and an exciting nightlife. The city boasts a mild Mediterranean climate. Lovers should definitely check out why Barcelona has been voted one of the ten most romantic cities in Europe.

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travnja u flotu hrvatskoga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika ukljuËen je joπ jedan novi zrakoplov Dash 8-Q400, koji Êe dobiti ime Primorje. Taj je zrakoplov prvi let pod oznakama Croatia Airlinesa obavio 3. travnja na redovitome domaÊem letu iz Zagreba u Dubrovnik.

UkljuËenjem Zagorja i Primorja zavrπen je proces obnove flote srednjeg doleta, koja je Croatia Airlinesu omoguÊila da u posljednje dvije godine u mreæu europskih odrediπta ukljuËi i Kopenhagen, Priπtinu, Podgoricu i Barcelonu.

Navedena odrediπta povezana su sa Zagrebom u prosjeku s tri do Ëetiri leta na tjedan, πto je dodatni doprinos Croatia Airlinesa razvoju hrvatskoga turizma, odnosno gospodarstva.

U floti Croatia Airlinesa sada je trinaest zrakoplova - Ëetiri Airbusa A319, tri Airbusa A320 i πest zrakoplova Dash 8-Q400. Zrakoplovi Airbus nose imena hrvatskih gradova, a zrakoplovi Q400 imena hrvatskih regija.

Two new aircraft join the fleet

Last April, the fifth and sixth new Dash 8-Q400 aircraft, manufactured by the Canadian company Bombardier Aerospace, joined our fleet.

The Q400 aircraft designated 9A-CQF and named Primorje completed its first flight bearing Croatia Airlines’ markings on 3rd April en route from Zagreb to Split. On 23rd April, the aircraft Q400, designated 9A-CQE and named Zagorje, completed its first flight from Zagreb to Dubrovnik.

The inclusion of Zagorje and Primorje completes the process of the medium-range fleet overhaul. Over the past two years this undertaking has enabled Croatia Airlines to expand the network of its European destinations and include Athens, Copenhagen, Barcelona, Pristine and Podgorica into its flight schedule.

These new destinations are connected with Zagreb by an average of three to four weekly flights. This is how Croatia Airlines contributes to the further development of Croatian tourism and the overall economy.

The Croatia Airlines fleet currently comprises a total of thirteen aircraft ∑ four Airbus A319, three Airbus A320, and six Dash 8-Q400 aircrafts. The Airbus aircraft bear the names of Croatian cities, while the Q400s were named after Croatian regions.

Dolazak dva nova zrakoplova u flotu

Nove online usluge

Zrakoplov Zagorje u flotu Croatia Airlinesa ukljuËen je 23. travnja ove godine, a prvi putnici u njemu su poletjeli na redovitome domaÊem letu iz Zagreba u Split. Osim Zagorja, u poËetku

Od nedavno na naπoj web stranici dostupne su dvije nove usluge: transfer i chat za pomoÊ pri online rezervaciji.

Transfer je usluga pomoÊu koje u pet jedno-

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stavnih koraka moæete rezervirati prijevoz od i do zraËne luke. Postupak je vrlo jednostavan i detaljno objaπnjen, a prijevoz je moguÊe rezervirati u 18 europskih dræava. Olakπajte si putovanje, uπtedite vrijeme i izbjegnite guæve na stajaliπtima taksija na napuËenim zraËnim lukama i omoguÊite sebi i svojim suputnicima pogodnosti unaprijed rezerviranog prijevoza.

Chat za pomoÊ pri online rezervaciji nalazi se unutar usluge FlyOnLine. Ukoliko tijekom internetske rezervacije zrakoplovne karte naiete na problem ili imate pitanje vezano za postupak rezervacije, naπi djelatnici sluæbe FlyOnLine rado Êe odgovoriti na svaki vaπ upit i pruæiti vam potrebne informacije.

PodsjeÊamo da je na naπoj web stranici dostupna usluga Let po mjeri koja vam omoguÊuje planiranje putovanja na naËin da sami odredite budæet te pronaete idealno odrediπte koje odgovara vaπim afinitetima. Ovom uslugom ostvaruje se osobniji pristup planiranju putovanja i poboljπanje kompletne usluge Croatia Airlinesa.

Viπe na www.croatiaairlines.com.

New online services

As of recently, our web pages offer two new services: transfer and chat, for assistance with reservations.

The Transfer service is a simple, five-step procedure which allows you to book a transfer to and from an airport. The procedure is explained in detail which makes it particularly user-friendly. Transfers can be arranged in 18 European countries. Make your travel more comfortable, save time and avoid queues at the taxi stands of even the most crowded airports.

Provide yourself and your fellow passengers with the comfort of a prearranged transfer.

The Chat service to assist with online reservations is part of the FlyOnline service. Should you encounter a problem in the middle of an online reservation process, or if you have a query related to the reservation procedure, our FlyOnline staff will be glad to answer any questions and provide you with the necessary information.

Let us remind you that our web pages offer the Flight Planner service which allows you to plan your trip by setting your own budget and finding a destination ideally suited to your preferences. This service provides a more personalized approach to travel planning and enhances the overall services of Croatia Airlines.

To find out more, visit our web pages at: www.croatiaairlines.com.

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PUTNIK U SREDIŠTU PASSENGER ORIENTED

Silva se smatra pravom sretnicom jer radi posao koji oboæava i koji nikad ne bi mijenjala.

Silva considers herself truly lucky for having a job she likes so much and would never change.

Piše/By Gloria Gelo

Silva KaraËiÊ: Putnik je u srediπtu, na poËetku i na kraju svakoga mojeg postupka na poslu Silva KaraËiÊ, asistentica voditelja stanice Zagreb, veÊ 23 godine radi u zrakoplovstvu.

Prva iskustva stjecala je u ZraËnoj luci Zagreb kao zemaljska stjuardesa te u Pan Americanu i Adria Airwaysu na prijamu i skrbi o putnicima.

U æelji za proπirenjem radnog iskustva, 1992. godine zaposlila se u Croatia Airlinesu u odjelu za skrb o putnicima, takozvanom welcome serviceu, a nakon dva mjeseca preπla je na radno mjesto asistenta voditelja stanice, na kojemu je i danas.

Silva se smatra pravom sretnicom jer radi posao koji oboæava i koji nikad ne bi mijenjala.

Svaki radni dan dinamiËan je i pun izazova, rutina je nepoznat pojam, a ni smjena od 6 do 22 sata nije nikakav problem. ©toviπe, Silva cjelodnevnu smjenu smatra nuænom, jer jedino tako kao voditeljica smjene ima zadovoljavajuÊu kontrolu nad svim dnevnim operacijama.

Glavni posao asistenta voditelja stanice briga je za prihvat i otpremu zrakoplova, πto ukljuËuje brigu za putnike, njihovu prtljagu i teret. U praksi to radno mjesto obuhvaÊa veoma πirok raspon zaduæenja. Na pitanje koja su njezina zaduæenja, Silva je odgovorila: Sve, uz naglaπavanje da je putnik srediπte svega. Cilj 164

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Silvina posla optimalno je zbrinjavanje putnika uz koordinaciju suradnje s mnogobrojnim partnerima naπe kompanije kao πto su Kontrola leta, Eurocontrola, ZraËna luka Zagreb, INA, aerodromska policija, carina i mnogi drugi.

Kao glavne vrijednosti svoga posla Silva navodi visoku motiviranost i profesionalnost, fleksibilnost, dobro noπenje s nepredvienim i stresnim situacijama i toËnost, a da naπa sugovornica sjedinjuje sve te kvalitete, dokazuje i nagrada za Djelatnika godine u kategoriji zraËnoga prometa u organizaciji Hrvatske turistiËke zajednice i Ministarstva turizma, koju je dobila 2006. godine.

Zadovoljstvo poslom kod Silve odraæava se i na privatni æivot, koji dijeli sa suprugom, takoer zaposlenome u Croatia Airlinesu, i Ëetrnaestogodiπnjim sinom.

■ Silva KaraËiÊ: The passenger is the centre, the beginning and the end of everything I do at work Silva KaraËiÊ, assistant head of the Zagreb station, has been working in the airline industry for 23 years. She acquired her first experiences in the airline industry at Zagreb Airport where she began her career as a ground stewardess, and then continued working in Pan American and Adria Airways as a member of the passenger welcome service. With a view to

furthering her professional skills, in 1992 she joined the Croatia Airlines welcome service.

Two months later, she became the assistant head of the station and has remained in that position ever since.

Silva considers herself truly lucky for having a job she likes so much and would never change.

Every day is dynamic and offers plenty of challenges. A routine is an unknown concept; even working the 6 A.M. to 10 P.M. shifts is not a problem. Quite the contrary, Silva considers a whole-day shift indispensable because it provides her, as the shift leader, with the necessary degree of control over the entire range of daily operations.

The main responsibilities of an assistant station head are the so-called above-wing functions, which include looking after passengers, their luggage and cargo. In practice, the job comprises a broad range of responsibilities. When asked what those included, Silva answered everything, highlighting the passenger as the centre of all those things. The main objective of Silva’s job is to provide the optimum in passenger care and coordinate cooperation with our company’s numerous partners, such as Flight Control, Eurocontrol, Zagreb Airport, INA, the airport police, customs and many others.

The main requirements of her job are a high level of motivation and professionalism, flexibility, the ability to deal with unforeseen and stressful situations and punctuality. Silva has all of those qualities, a fact which was confirmed by the Airline Employee of the Year Award she received in 2006 from the Croatian Tourist Board and the Ministry of Tourism.

In Silva’s case, her job satisfaction also reflects on her private life, which she shares with her husband, who also works in Croatia Airlines, and fourteen year old son.

■

Croatia Airlines nagrauje autora najoriginalnije fotografije.

Dino HrustanoviÊ

Fotografirajte i otputujte Letite Croatia Airlinesom, fotografirajte i osvojite zrakoplovne karte.

Autor najoriginalnije fotografije bit Êe nagraen dvjema povratnim meunarodnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa.

Zaπto volite putovati ?

Budite kreativni. Fotografijom i jednom reËenicom izrazite zaπto volite putovanja.

Najbolju fotografiju izabrat Êe Sluæba promotivnih aktivnosti Croatia Airlinesa, a fotografiju Êemo objaviti u sljedeÊem broju putnog Ëasopisa.

Crno-bijele, fotografije u boji ili dijapozitive dostavite do 15. kolovoza 2010. godine na adresu: Croatia Airlines, Sluæba promotivnih aktivnosti, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, Hrvatska.

Ne zaboravite priloæiti kupon s dna stranice.

" g.

ga

gica

IME PREZIME DATUM RO–ENJA ULICA I BROJ PO©TANSKI BROJ GRAD DRÆAVA TEL. E-MAIL

Uvjeti nagradne igre: - fotografije postaju vlasniπtvo Croatia Airlinesa - Croatia Airlines ne preuzima nikakvu odgovornost u sluËaju gubitka materijala - Croatia Airlines zadræava pravo koriπtenja fotografija u promidæbenim materijalima Croatia Airlinesa bez naknade - nagrada ne moæe biti zamijenjena za novac - djelatnici Croatia Airlinesa te Ëlanovi njihove uæe obitelji nemaju pravo sudjelovanja u nagradnoj igri

Croatia Airlines is rewarding the author of the most original photograph.

Tanja JeliĂŠ

Take a photo and travel

Fly Croatia Airlines, take photographs and win two air tickets.

The winner will receive 2 Croatia Airlines international round trip tickets.

Why do you love to travel ?

Be creative. In one sentence and a single photograph express why you love to travel. Selection of the most original photograph will be made by the Croatia Airlines Promotion Department and the photograph will be published in the next issue of our inflight magazine.

You should send us your B/W or color photographs and/or slides by 15th August 2010 to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Promotion Department, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, Croatia.

Do not forget to include the coupon from the page bottom.

" Mr.

Mrs.

Miss.

NAME SURNAME DATE OF BIRTH ADDRESS POSTAL CODE CITY COUNTRY TEL. NO. E-MAIL Conditions for participation: - photographs become the property of Croatia Airlines - Croatia Airlines does not assume any responsibility in case of the possible loss of the material - Croatia Airlines reserves the right to use the material in the Croatia Airlines promotional activities and materials, without an additional payment.

- reward cannot be exchanged for money - employees of Croatia Airlines as well as the members of their immediate families, are not allowed to participate

Miles & More Broj leta/ Flight number

TrenutaËni let/Current flight Broj karte/Document number

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Datum polaska/Date of departure Linija (npr. Frankfurt–Pariz)/Route (e.g. Frankfurt–Paris)

Adresa (molimo vas da navedete samo jednu adresu)/ Address (please state only one address) ga/Ms

g./Mr

Titula/Title

Telefon/Telephone

KuÊna/ Home Ime/First name

Poslovna/ Business Prezime/Surname

Ulica i broj/Street and number

Poπtanski pretinac/PO Box

Grad/Town

Razred putovanja/ Service class Economy Class Business Class First Class

Dræava/Country

Molimo vas da unesete ime kompanije/Please enter name of company here

Poπtanski broj/Postcode

Datum roenja/Date of birth Mjesec/ Dan/ Month Day

Godina/ Year

Odjel/Department

Mobilni telefon/Mobile number Privatni/ Home

Poslovni/ Business

Ovime potvrujem* da od sljedeÊih (dolje oznaËenih) kompanija æelim primati SMS poruke s vaænim i najnovijim informacijama u vezi s mojim letom tijekom putovanja. /I hereby give my permission* for the following listed companies (ticked below) to send me important and up-to-date information regarding my travel itinerary by SMS during my travels.

Deutsche Lufthansa AG, kompanija iz koncerna Lufthansa ili kompanije koje sudjeluju u programu Miles & More (ukljuËujuÊi Croatia Airlines) Deutsche Lufthansa AG, a company of the Lufthansa Group or joint operators of the Miles & More programme (including Croatia Airlines)

Drugi partneri programa Miles & More Other Miles & More partner corporations

e-mail adresa/E-mail address Privatna/ Home

Poslovna/ Business

Ovime potvrujem* da od sljedeÊih (dolje oznaËenih) kompanija æelim elektronskom poπtom primati obavijesti o ponudama, promocijama, novim uslugama i drugim zanimljivim temama vezanima uz Lufthansu, grupu Lufthansa i partnerske kompanije. /I hereby give my permission* for the following listed companies (ticked below) to send me information by e-mail about offers, promotions, new services and other interesting topics from Lufthansa, the Lufthansa Group, as well as partner corporations.

Deutsche Lufthansa AG, kompanija iz koncerna Lufthansa ili kompanije koje sudjeluju u programu Miles & More (ukljuËujuÊi Croatia Airlines) Drugi partneri programa Miles & More Deutsche Lufthansa AG, a company of the Lufthansa Group or joint operators of the Miles & More programme (including Croatia Airlines) Other Miles & More partner corporations

Uvjete Ëlanstva u programu Miles & More moæete pronaÊi na web stranicama www.miles-and-more.com ili www.lufthansa.com. Ova vas prijava ne obvezuje ni na koji naËin.

Ne budete li viπe htjeli primati obavijesti o naπim posebnim ponudama, u svakom trenutku moæete povuÊi pristanak za koriπtenje vaπih osobnih podataka u promotivne svrhe pozivom na telefonski broj + 49-1805-5959 (€0.12/min. preko fiksne mreæe u NjemaËkoj) * Znam da dopuπtenje dano Deutsche Lufthansi AG mogu povuÊi u svakom trenutku.

Poljski/ Polish

©panjolski/ Spanish

Japanski/ Japanese

Conditions of participation in our Frequent Flyer Programme Miles & More can be obtained on request on the Internet at www.miles-and-more.com and www.lufthansa.com This registration places you under no obligation.

If you no longer wish to receive our special offers, you can withdraw your permission to use your personal information for advertising purposes by contacting us on +49 -18 05 - 59 59 (€ 0.12/min. from a German landline). * I am aware that I can revoke this permission from Deutsche Lufthansa AG at any time.

Odabrani naËin komunikacije za Miles & More News i izvjeπtaj o stanju milja na raËunu/Preferred means of communication for Miles & More News and Miles & More account statements: Elektronski/ Poπtom/ Online Post

POU01

Jezik za komunikaciju/Preferred correspondence language Francuski/ Engleski/ Talijanski/ NjemaËki/ French English Italian German

Datum/Date

Potpis/Signature

Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo: • preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom • telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovu Bit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let koji ste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekim drugim partnerom u programu. Molimo vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu.

Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na stranici www.miles-and-more.com. Molimo vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak u zrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.

It’s so easy to register: • Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

d

• By post • With one of your flight attendants

We will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flights taken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner.

Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to your account, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card and passenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.

Razred putovanja/ Service class

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Miles & More – veÊ sad poËnite prikupljati milje

Broj leta/ Flight number

Broj karte/

Miles & More – start collecting miles now

Document number

LUFTPOST

Prostor za marku.

PAR AVION PRIORITAIRE

Please affix stamp here.

RÉPONSE PUBLICITAIRE/ANTWORT ALLEMAGNE Miles & More Postfach 14 34 33309 Gütersloh ALLEMAGNE

»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More, milje Êe vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo vas da pri svakoj rezervaciji navedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu.

Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.

Ime/First name

Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation.

You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collected one mile.

Prezime/Surname

We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once you have provided all the details of the current flight on the front.

Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu.

We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.

Osno­ve Mi­les & Mo­re pro­gra­ma

In­tro­du­cing Mi­les & Mo­re

Mi­les & Mo­re naj­ve­Êi je pro­gram na­gra­i­va­nja put­ni­ka u Eu­ro­pi i nu­di Ëla­no­vi­ma ra­zli­Ëi­te mo­guÊ­no­sti pri­kup­lja­nja mi­lja i ko­ri­πte­nja na­gra­da, kao i mno­ge priv­laË­ne po­god­no­sti. »la­no­vi pri­kup­lja­ju mi­lje ko­ri­ste­Êi se uslu­ga­ma broj­nih par­tne­ra u pro­gra­mu.

Mi­lje se bi­lje­æe za le­to­ve svih Ëla­ni­ca Star Al­li­an­cea i dru­gih kom­pa­ni­ja par­tne­ra, ali i za unaj­mlji­va­nje vo­zi­la, od­sje­da­nje u ho­te­li­ma ili po­tro­ πnju pre­ko kre­dit­nih kar­ti­ca Mi­les & Mo­re.

Mi­les & Mo­re is the gre­a­te­st fre­qu­ent flyer pro­gram­me in Eu­ro­pe of­fe­ring its mem­bers nu­me­ro­us po­ssi­bi­li­ti­es for col­lec­ting and re­de­ e­ming mi­les, as well as many at­trac­ti­ve pri­vi­le­ges.

Mem­bers col­lect mi­les by using the ser­vi­ces of many par­tners in the pro­gram­me.

Mi­les are cre­di­ted for flig­hts of all Star Al­li­an­ce mem­bers and ot­her air­li­ne par­tners, but al­so for ren­ting ve­hi­cles from rent-a-car par­tners or sta­ying in par­ti­ci­pa­ting ho­tels.

Za­tra­æi­te svo­ju Di­ners Club Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes kre­dit­nu kar­ti­cu!

5 ku­na = 1mi­lja - za sva­kih 5 ku­na po­tro­πe­nih pre­ko ove kar­ti­ce, bi­lje­æi vam se 1 na­grad­na mi­lja n Dvo­s­tru­ke mi­lje - osva­ja­te za pla­Êa­nje tu­ri­stiË­kih aran­æma­na i zra­ko­plov­nih ka­ra­ta u Di­ners Club Tra­ve­lu n Pri­kup­ljaj­te na­grad­ne mi­lje svug­dje - jed­no­stav­no pla­Êaj­te svo­jom Di­ners Club kar­ti­com na bi­lo ko­jemu od 12,000.000 DC pro­daj­nih mje­sta u zem­lji i ino­zem­s­tvu. n Osvo­ji­te joπ vi­πe mi­lja - ko­ri­πte­nje osta­lih po­god­no­sti Di­ners Clu­ba po­put be­s­plat­nih onli­ne uslu­ga, e-pla­Êa­nja ili traj­nih na­lo­ga do­no­si vam do­dat­ne mi­lje. n 2 kar­ti­ce - 1 ra­Ëun Mi­les & Mo­re - ko­ri­sti­te se isto­dob­no pri­vat­nom i po­slov­nom kar­ti­com Di­ners Clu­ba i Cro­a­tia Air­li­ne­sa, pri­kup­lje­ne na­grad­ne mi­lje zbra­ja­ju se na va­πemu ra­Ëu­nu Mi­les & Mo­re.

Ap­ply for yo­ur Di­ners Club Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes cre­dit card! n 5 HRK = 1mi­le - for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you col­lect 1mi­le. n Earn do­u­ble mi­les - for pa­ying pac­ka­ge to­urs and flig­ht tic­kets at Di­ners Club Tra­vel n Col­lect award mi­les ever­ywhe­re - sim­ply pay with yo­ur Di­ners Club Card in any of 12 mil­li­on DC of­fi­ces in Cro­a­tia or abro­ad n Col­lect ex­tra award mi­les - by using ot­her Di­ners Club be­ne­fits, such as free onli­ne ser­vi­ces, in­ter­net ban­king and e-pa­ying, standing or­ders etc. n 2 cre­dit car­ds - 1 Mi­les & Mo­re mem­ber­ship ac­co­unt - use yo­ur pri­va­te and bu­si­ne­ss card to col­lect award mi­les on the sa­me mem­ ber­ship ac­co­unt.

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu! n 7 kuna potrošenih u inozemstvu = 1 milja U suradnji s Erste Card Clubom, Croatia Airlines objavio je prvu companion karticu u Hrvatskoj! Svi postojeÊi i buduÊi korisnici Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditne kartice mogu zatraæiti i svoju Visa kreditnu karticu.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card! n 7 kuna spent abroad = 1 mile Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club have issued the first companion credit card in Croatia! All current and future Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card holders have an opportunity to apply for the VISA credit card as well.

Za­tra­æi­te svo­ju kre­dit­nu kar­ti­cu Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes American Express! n 4 ku­ne = 1 mi­lja - za sva­ke 4 ku­ne po­tro­πe­ne pre­ko Pre­mi­um kar­ ti­ce bi­lje­æi se 1 na­grad­na mi­lja, od­no­sno za sva­kih 5 ku­na po­tro­πe­nih pre­ko Stan­dard kar­ti­ce n 2500 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce - za no­ve osnov­ne Pre­mi­um ko­ri­sni­ke i 1250 mi­lja do­bo­do­πli­ce za no­ve do­dat­ne Pre­mi­um ko­ri­sni­ke n 1500 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce za no­ve osnov­ne Stan­dard ko­ri­sni­ke i 750 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce za no­ve do­dat­ne Stan­dard ko­ri­sni­ke n Dvo­s­tru­ke na­grad­ne mi­lje - za po­tro­πnju u po­slov­ni­ca­ma Cro­a­tia Air­li­ne­sa i Jum­bo Tra­vel Ser­vi­ces PBZ Car­da n UËla­nje­nje u Pri­o­rity Pa­ss bez nak­na­de te pri­stup u vi­πe od 450 VIP sa­lo­na u zraË­nim lu­ka­ma

Ap­ply for yo­ur Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes American Express cre­dit card! n 4 HRK = 1mi­le - for every 4 HRK spent via Pre­mi­um card, you col­lect 1mi­le, and for every 5 HRK spent via Stan­dard card you col­lect 1 mi­le. n 2.500 wel­co­me mi­les - for new ba­sic Pre­mi­um card users and 1.250 wel­co­me mi­les for new ad­di­ti­o­nal Pre­mi­um card users. n 1.500 wel­co­me mi­les - for new ba­sic Stan­dard card users and 750 wel­co­me mi­les for new ad­di­ti­o­nal Stan­ dard card users. n Earn do­u­ble award mi­les - using the card to pay for tra­vels at Cro­ a­tia Air­li­nes sa­les of­fi­ces and Jum­bo Tra­vel Ser­vi­ces of PBZ Card. n Free Pri­o­rity Pa­ss enrol­lment- it ena­bles you to ac­ce­ss in­to mo­re than 450 VIP air­port lo­un­ges

Ra­zre­di Ëlan­s­tva i po­god­no­sti Ko­ri­πte­njem uslu­ga par­tne­ra u pro­gra­mu pri­kup­lja­te na­grad­ne mi­lje ko­je za­mje­nju­je­te za na­gra­de i sta­tu­sne mi­lje ko­je odre­u­ju vaπ Ëlan­ski sta­tus i po­god­no­sti πto ih os­tva­ru­je­te.

Sta­tu­sne mi­lje pri­kup­lja­ju se re­do­vi­tim le­to­vi­ma slje­de­Êih zra­ko­plov­ nih kom­pa­ni­ja: Cro­at­ia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal i Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), SWI­SS i svi zra­ko­plov­ni par­tne­ri iz mre­æe Star Al­li­an­ce, te Cir­rus Air­li­nes, Air Dolomiti i Luxair. Sva­ka ta­ko os­tva­re­na mi­lja bi­lje­æi se i kao sta­tu­sna i kao na­grad­na mi­lja.

Mi­lje HON Cir­cle sta­tu­sne su mi­lje ko­je se pri­kup­lja­ju le­to­vi­ma slje­de­ Êih kom­pa­ni­ja: Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Au­st­ri­an Air­li­nes, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal i Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), Luxair i Swiss International Airlines.

Ti­ers and be­ne­fits By using the Mi­les & Mo­re par­tners’ ser­vi­ces mem­bers col­lect award mi­les, which are tra­ded in for awar­ds; and sta­tus mi­les, which de­ter­ mi­ne a mem­ber’s mem­ber­ship sta­tus and pri­vi­le­ges.

Sta­tus mi­les can be ac­cru­ed on sc­he­du­led flig­hts ope­ra­ted by Cro­at­ia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­ nes, Luf­than­sa (in­clu­ding Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal and Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), SWI­SS, all Star Al­li­an­ce par­tners, Cir­rus Air­li­nes, Air Dolomiti and Luxair. Every mi­le ac­cru­ed is re­cor­ded as both a sta­tus and an award mi­le.

HON Cir­cle mi­les are sta­tus mi­les that you col­lect on flig­hts ope­ra­ ted by Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Au­st­ri­an Air­li­nes, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (in­clu­ding Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal and Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), Luxair and Swiss International Airlines.

n

CROATIA AIRLINES

165

Uz 35.000 sta­tu­snih mi­lja pri­kup­lje­nih u jed­noj ka­len­dar­skoj go­di­ni, ste­Êi Êe­te sta­tus Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler, a za 100.000 sta­tu­snih mi­lja u ka­len­dar­skoj go­di­ni oËe­ku­je vas sta­tus Se­na­tor. »la­no­vi ko­ji pri­ku­pe naj­ma­nje 600.000 HON Cir­cle mi­lja u ra­zdob­lju od dvi­je uza­stop­ne ka­len­dar­ske go­di­ne, stje­Ëu sta­tus HON Cir­cle.

With 35,000 sta­tus mi­les col­lec­ted in one ca­len­dar ye­ar mem­bers earn the Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler sta­tus, with 100,000 sta­tus mi­les the Se­na­tor sta­tus, and mem­bers who col­lect at le­a­st 600,000 HON Cir­cle mi­les wit­hin two con­se­cu­ti­ve ca­len­dar ye­ars, earn the HON Cir­cle sta­tus.

Po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus - 25 po­sto mi­lja na zaista pri­je­e­ ni ili stan­dar­dni iznos za le­to­ve slje­de­Êih kom­pa­ni­ja: Luf­than­sa (uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal i Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), Adria Air­ways, Air Ca­na­da, Air Do­lo­mi­ti, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, SWI­SS, US Air­ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental - ne­o­gra­ni­Ëe­na va­lja­no­st na­grad­nih mi­lja za tra­ja­nja sta­tu­sa - upo­ra­ba Luf­than­sa Bu­si­ne­ss Cla­ss Lo­un­gea pri­li­kom le­to­va s ne­kom od Ëla­ni­ca Star Al­li­an­cea - pred­no­st na li­sti Ëe­ka­nja - pri­ja­va za let (check in) na πal­te­ru po­slov­nog ra­zre­da - 40 kg prtlja­ge bez na­pla­te ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji

Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler pri­vi­le­ges - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus of 25 per cent on the ac­tu­al flown mi­les or stan­dard mi­le­a­ge amo­un­ts on flig­hts ope­ra­ ted by Luf­than­sa (in­clu­ding Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal and Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), Adria Air­ways, Air Ca­na­da, Air Do­lo­mi­ti, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, SWI­SS, US Air­ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental.

- Ac­cru­ed award mi­les ha­ve no ex­piry da­te - Use of the Luf­than­sa Bu­si­ne­ss Cla­ss Lo­un­ges whi­le flying with a Star Al­li­an­ce Mem­ber - Wa­i­ting li­st pri­or­ ity - Check-in at the Luf­than­sa Bu­si­ne­ss Cla­ss co­un­ter - Free bag­ga­ge al­lo­wan­ce of 40 kg depending on the destination and the airline

Po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa Se­na­tor - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus - 25 po­sto mi­lja na zaista pri­je­e­ni ili stan­dar­dni iznos za le­to­ve slje­de­Êih kom­pa­ni­ja: Cro­at­ia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Air Ca­na­da, Air Do­lo­ mi­ti, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (uk­lju­Ëu­ju­Êi Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal i Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), SWI­SS, US Air­ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental.

- ne­o­gra­ni­Ëe­na va­lja­no­st na­grad­nih mi­lja za tra­ja­nja sta­tu­sa - pre­du­jam od 50.000 mi­lja - upo­ra­ba Luf­than­sa Se­na­tor Lo­un­ge te Star Gold Lo­un­ge par­tne­ra u Star Al­li­an­ceu - vi­πi pri­o­ri­tet na li­sti Ëe­ka­nja - pri­ja­va za let (check in) na πal­te­ru prvog ra­zre­da - osi­gu­ra­no mje­sto na le­tu za re­zer­va­ci­je do 48 sa­ti odnosno do 72 sata una­pri­jed, ovisno o razredu putovanja - 50 posto ma­nje mi­lja za su­put­ni­ka na na­grad­nom le­tu, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - do­dat­nih 20 kg ili do­dat­ni ko­mad prtlja­ge bez na­pla­te, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dva elek­tron­ska va­u­Ëe­ra za pre­mje­πtaj u vi­πi ra­zred pu­to­va­nja (up­ gra­de), te joπ dva za svako zadræavanje statusa

Se­na­tor pri­vi­le­ges - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus of 25 per cent on the ac­tu­al flown mi­les or stan­dard mi­le­a­ge amo­un­ts on flig­hts ope­ra­ted

by Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes, Adria Air­ways, Air Ca­na­da, Air Dolo­ mi­ti, Au­s­tri­an Air­li­nes, LOT Po­li­sh Air­li­nes, Luf­than­sa (in­clu­ding Luf­than­sa Re­gi­o­nal and Luf­than­sa Pri­va­te Jet), SWI­SS, US Air­ways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental.

- Ac­cru­ed award mi­les ha­ve no ex­piry da­te - 50,000 mi­les in advan­ce - Ac­ce­ss to the Luf­than­sa Se­na­tor Lo­un­ge as well as to the Star Gold Lo­un­ges of Star Al­li­an­ce par­tners - High wa­i­ting li­st pri­or­ ity - Fir­st Cla­ss check-in - Bo­o­king gu­a­ran­tee up to 48 or 72 ho­urs in advan­ce depending on the booking class - A 50 per cent mi­le­a­ge di­sco­unt for an ac­com­pan­ying per­son on flig­ht awar­ds depending on the airline - Ad­di­ti­o­nal 20 kg bag­ga­ge al­lo­wan­ce or an ad­di­ti­o­nal bag depending on the destination and the airline - 2 elec­tro­nic up­gra­de vo­uc­hers and two more for every status retention HON Cir­cle pri­vi­le­ges - All exi­sting Se­na­tor pri­vi­le­ges - Exe­cu­ti­ve bo­nus of 25 per cent - 100,000 mi­les in advan­ce - Se­na­tor sta­tus for yo­ur spo­u­se or par­tner depending on the airline - 6 elec­tro­nic Up­gra­de Vo­uc­hers and 6 more for every status retention - Ad­di­ti­o­nal be­ne­fits of­fe­red by Mi­les & Mo­re par­tners, ro­un­ding off the tra­vel ex­pe­ri­en­ce Spend mi­les You can ex­chan­ge col­lec­ted award mi­les for awar­ds pre­pa­red for you: award tic­kets, up­gra­des, va­ri­o­us tra­vel awar­ds.

Po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa HON Cir­cle - sve po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa Se­na­tor - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus od 25 po­sto - pre­du­jam od 100.000 mi­lja - Sta­tus Se­na­tor za su­pru­æni­ka ili par­tne­ra, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - πe­st elek­tron­skih va­u­Ëe­ra za pre­mje­πtaj u vi­πi ra­zred pu­to­va­nja (up­gra­de), te joπ šest prigodom zadræavanja statusa - do­dat­ne po­god­no­sti ko­je nu­de par­tne­ri pro­gra­ma osi­gu­ra­va­ju­Êi je­din­s­tve­no isku­s­tvo pu­to­va­nja Tro­πi­te mi­lje Pri­kup­lje­ne na­grad­ne mi­lje za­mje­nju­je­te za mnoge na­gra­de: nagradne kar­te, pre­mje­πtaj u vi­πi ra­zred pu­to­va­nja (up­gra­de), ra­zli­Ëi­te nagra­de ko­ji­ma se mo­æe­te ko­ri­sti­ti pri pu­to­va­nju (ho­tel­ski smje­πtaj, unaj­mlji­ va­nje vo­zi­la).

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HRVATSKA − DOMOVINA MARKA POLA CROATIA − MARCO POLO’S HOMELAND Meunarodna udruga Putevima Marka Pola nastoji praktiËnim i pragmatiËnim akcijama promicati æivotni lik i djelo Marka Pola, jedne od kljuËnih figura srednjeg vijeka. Marko Polo prvi je pravi svjetski turist, Ëija je æivotna priËa oznaËila posebne stranice multikulturalne povijesti svijeta. »ovjeËanstvo dandanas uæiva mnoge blagodati koje su oznaËile Markov povratak u Europu nakon sedamneastogodiπnjeg boravka u Kini i azijskim zemljama: papirnati novac, tjesteninu, svilu, barut, zaËine, porculan, ugljen i niz drugih.

Polo je jedan od utemeljitelja nove geografije, njegova upotreba kompasa i geografskih karata okrenula je nove stranice u upoznavanju svijeta.

I aritmetiËka jedinica 106 nastala je prema Markovu nadimku Emilione, a brojka milijun ustanovljena je 30 godina nakon njegove smrti. Zlatna ploËa Ëasti koju je Kublaj-kan darovao Marku Polu kao oproπtajni dar, preteËa je putovnice i, jednako tako, prve kreditne kartice. Zlatna mu je ploËa omoguÊavala potpuno opskrbljivanje i neometano putovanje Mongolskim Carstvom tijekom putovanja kuÊi. Na ploËi piπe: Snago vjeËnog neba!

MoÊno ime Kanovo budi sveto!

Tko mu ne iskaæe povjerenje, mora biti smaknut ∑ mora umrijeti!

Novi oblik turistiËke ponude − kulturno-turistiËke rute, kojima je cilj odmor turista pretvoriti u kvalitetnu animaciju kulturnog naslijea i meuregionalnog povezivanja, nadahnuo je i meunarodnu udrugu Putevima Marka Pola da u suradnji s Italijom, Slovenijom, Crnom Gorom i Albanijom napravi osnove rute Marka Pola, koja Êe se od Venecije, preko istoËnog Jadrana i Crnog mora nadovezati na kopnenu trasu veÊ poËetog oæivljavanja Puta svile pod nadzorom Unesca. Prve inicijative Udruge prepoznao je veÊ Europski kulturni centar u Delfiju.

Takva ponuda, osim kulturne baπtine, svoju priËu primjenjuje i na niz zabavnih i poslovnih dogaaja, poput veÊ izvoenoga malog mjuzikla Marko Polo, Ëiji je libreto preveden na engleski i kineski jezik, struËnih skupova i konferencija, zatim gospodarskih subjekata koji kvalitetom izvrsnosti novoformiranog brenda Marko Polo promiËu svoje proizvode s priËom, Ëime postaju i prepoznatljivi za odrediπte, i ujedno su suvenir svakom posjetitelju: vino Poπip Marko Polo poljoprivredne zadruge PO©IP »ara s otoka KorËule, ekstra djeviËansko maslinovo ulje Marco Polo, proizvodnje BLATO 1902 d.d. iz Blata s otoka KorËule, ekstra tamna Ëokolada sa zaËinima koje je Marko donio u Europu LUXOR − NADALINE iz Splita, te koæna 168

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galanterija Marko Polo, proizvodnje GALKO iz M. Bukovca.

Tijekom kolovoza odræat Êe se velike zabavne manifestacije Povratak Marka Pola u Zadru, ©ibeniku i u Blatu na KorËuli, otkuda su, prema legendi, potekli djed i baka Marka Pola.

Udruga Putevima Marka Pola predstavit Êe taj novi brand na Meunarodnom sajmu robe πiroke potroπnje u Ningbou u Kini, kao svoj prvi konkretan korak napravljen upravo tragovima velikog putnika koji je zaduæio svijet.

■ The Zagreb-seated International Association The Routes of Marco Polo has set its clear goals in practical and pragmatic promotion of the life and opus of Marco Polo, one of the key personalities of Middle Ages. Marco Polo is the first real tourist whose life story has marked the very special pages of the multicultural history of the world.

To this very day the mankind has enjoyed a number of commodities he brought back to Europe after a seventeen-year long sojourn in China and elsewhere: the paper money, pasta, silk, gunpowder, spices, porcelain, coal, and many others! Polo is one of the founders of modern geography, his use of compass and geographic maps turned new pages in our learning about the world. The arithmetic 106 value was created after his nickname Emilione, and the 1 million digit (1.000.000) was born 30 years after his death.

The golden plate of honour, one of the farewell presents of Khublai Khan which enabled Marco Polo the provision of all he needed on his unhindered travel home, was the predecessor of passport and a credit card at the same time.

It reads: Power of eternal heaven!

Be sacred the mighty name of Khan!

He who does not pay respect to him, let him be put to death. He must die!

The new trend in world tourism ∑ the cultural tourist routes, aiming to shape one’s holiday as a quality animation of cultural heritage and interregional linking, has inspired the Association The Routes of Marco Polo to collaborate with associations and institutions from Italy, Slovenia, Montenegro and Albania to enact the fundaments of the route of Marco Polo that must be connected on to the land routes of the already existing revitalization of the Silk Road under the tutelage of UNESCO. Its first initiatives have been promptly recognized by the EUROPEAN CLUTURAL CENTER of Delphi.

Alongside with cultural features, the project applies its stories on a number of entertaining and business events, as is the already premiered Marco Polo, the little musical (with libretto translated also in English and Chinese), professional meetings and gatherings, and, especially, with the new Marco Polo brand of products, in collaboration with local producers.

Those products of excellence promote items with a story, becoming recognizable of the destination of origin and a souvenir to every visitor: the multi-awarded Marco Polo White Wine of the Poπip »ara Cooperative from

KorËula, the extra virgin olive oil of the same name produced by Blato 1902, KorËula, the extra dark chocolate with spices that Marco Polo introduced to Europe, produce of Luxor Nadalina, Split, and high-quality leather ware by Galko from M. Bukovec.

In the summer, a series of big entertainment events named The Return of Marco Polo will take place in Zadar, ©ibenik and Blato on KorËula wherefrom, by a legend, originated Marco Polo’s grandparents.

The Association will introduce its activities and products at the CICG Fair in Ningbo, China, as it first concrete international step made after the footprints of the great traveler to whom the mankind owes so much.

■

U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU UPORABA TELEFONSKIH NAPRAVA Sadaπnje odredbe zabranjuju uporabu odreenih prenosivih elektronskih naprava tijekom komercijalnih letova, zbog moguÊnosti ometanja navigacijske i komunikacijske opreme. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa zabranjena je uporaba ovih elektronskih naprava: prijenosnih telefona, komercijalnih dvovalnih prijenosnika (npr. walkie talkie); amaterskih prijenosnih ureaja; CB prijenosnih ureaja: prijenosnih ureaja koji emitiraju RF energiju na odreenoj frekvenciji, perifernih ureaja za raËunala ili igre. Ovi se ureaji mogu rabiti kad zrakoplov nije na pisti, uzletu, poËetnom penjanju, prilazu ili fazama slijetanja: osobna raËunala (periferni ureaji kao πto su πtampaËi, vanjski disc driveovi itd. nisu dopuπteni); osobna raËunala s igrama, VHF skenerski prijamnici; CD diskovi; kasetofoni, videorekorderi; kalkulatori. SljedeÊi ureaji mogu se rabiti sve vrijeme: sluπni aparati, ugraeni medicinski aparati, elektronski satovi, elektronski stimulatori æivaca.

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI!

RU»NA PRTLJAGA

Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima.

Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobro doπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Sva Ëekirana prtljaga mora imati putnikovo ime.

Besplatne oznake za prtljagu mogu se dobiti u svim prodajnim uredima Croatia Airlinesa.

Oznaku za prtljagu stavite i unutar prtljage. Sve vrijedne stvari i predmete nosite sa sobom u zrakoplov. Osobnu ruËnu prtljagu odloæite iznad svojeg sjedala ili ispod njega, tako da teæi komadi idu ispod, a lakπi iznad, a da istodobno ne smeta drugim putnicima i posadi zrakoplova.

UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije.

UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uvela je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

RED SJEDENJA Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

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Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima.

PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja.

Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U zrakoplovu raspolaæemo s raznim vrstama alkoholnih i bezalkoholnih piÊa kojima Êe vas stjuardese posluæiti zajedno s jelom. Prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed, moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka (oznaka: SPML), kao npr. vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed. Ako ste naruËili poseban obrok, molimo vas da o tome na vrijeme izvijestite osoblje.

Putnicima nije dozvoljeno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Osoblje zrakoplova neÊe posluæiti alkoholna piÊa alkoholiziranim putnicima.

Prije slijetanja osoblje Êe ukloniti sve πalice i Ëaπe. Puπenje nije dopuπteno tijekom cijelog leta, a u toaletima postoje i detektori za dim koji se aktiviraju u sluËaju puπenja.

MEDICINSKA POMO∆ U zrakoplovu imamo priruËnu ljekarnu sa svim potrebnim lijekovima za prvu pomoÊ (s lijekovima protiv bolova, flasterima i ostalim osnovnim medicinskim sredstvima).

Za medicinsku pomoÊ obratite se kabinskom osoblju.

ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT SKY - SHOP U avionu moæete kupiti bescarinsku robu.

Glede cijena, obratite se domaÊici zrakoplova.

Roba se moæe platiti u sljedeÊim konvertibilnim valutama: euro, ameriËki dolar, funta, πvicarski franak i u nacionalnoj valuti kunama, te sljedeÊim karticama: Diners, Visa, American Express i EuroMaster Card. Zbog teæine aviona ili trenutaËnog nedostatka prostora ponuda moæe biti ograniËena, pa vas molimo da to uzmete u obzir.

■

DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our first and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests.

With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services.

Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

luggage must be stowed under the passenger seat or in the overhead compartment - heavy pieces below and lighter above the seat - in a way not to disturb other passengers or the cabin crew.

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight.

Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight.

Your seat has been especially reserved for you.

Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing.

BAGGAGE

RESTRICTED ITEMS

All checked-in baggage must have the passenger’s name on the outside. Free identification cards are available at all OU ticket offices. We suggest that you place an identification tag inside your luggage as well. Carry all valuable and important items with you on the plane. Hand

The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage.

Such items are: explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, firearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT

Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available on board and are served with your meal. If you wish to order a special kind of meal such as vegeterian, dietary etc., you can do so when buying your ticket but must be 24 hours in advance. Kosher meals should be ordered 48 hours in advance. Make sure that your flight attendant is aware that you have ordered a special meal.

Passengers are prohibited from consuming their own alcoholic beverages on board. The cabin crew are instructed to discontinue serving passengers who appear to be intoxicated.

All cups and glasses will be removed from the passenger areas prior to take-off and landing.

Smoking is not permitted on any of Croatia Airlines’ flights. A fresh air vent and smoke detectors are located in toilletes and will be activated if smoking.

USE OF ELECTRONIC DEVICES Current regulations prohibit the use of certain types of portable electronic devices (PFDs) on board commercial flights, due to potential interference with navigational and communications equipment. On Croatia Airlines’ flights it is prohibited to use the following electronic devices: cellular telephones, commercial twoway transmitters (e. g., walkie-talkies); amateur radio transmitters; Citizen Band (CB) transmitters; 49-MHz transmitters, devices designed to radiate RF energy on a specific frequency; peripheral devices for computers or computer games.The following devices may be used when the aircraft is not in the taxiing, take-off, initial climb, approach or landing phases: personal computers (cable-connected peripheral devices such as printers, external disc drives, etc. are not permitted); personal computer games, VHS scanner receivers; compact disc players; cassette tape players; video recorders; calculators. The following may be operated at all times: hearing aids, implanted medical devices, electronic watches, electronic nerve stimulators.

Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

SERVICE ON BOARD

MEDICAL AID Painkillers, Band Aid and other essential medical items are kept on the aircraft. Ask your flight attendant should you need any assistance.

SKY SHOP Duty free goods can be paid for in major currencies such as: Euro, US Dollar, British Pounds, Swiss Franks and national currency Kuna, whilst Diners, Visa, American Express and Euro-Master Card are also welcome. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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I travel the world for inspiration and with global access to 990 lounges I can even be inspired before boarding.

I’ve earned it.

G raci n h a Vi t erb o, Sen i or Desi g n er at G raça Vi t erb o I n t eri or Desi g n an d St ar A l l i an ce G ol d St at u s

st aral l i an ce.com

FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi A320-200, A319-100, i Dash8 - Q400 Ëine naπu flotu.

Our fleet consists of A320-200, A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

A320-200

A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m /ft )

122,40 / 1318

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

3

4

6

2

2

(1 unajmljen / 1 leased)

A320-200

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

A319-100

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400

Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje.

Raspored poslovnog i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednog do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer.

Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

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174

CROATIA AIRLINES

ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

Partneri / Partners:

CROATIA AIRLINES

175

176

CROATIA AIRLINES

ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

5

4

4

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

P

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

1

C

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A”

A

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

D

D

Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

N

B S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

3

S

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

A

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

B

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Flight Information Informacije o letovima

C

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

D

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks) Baggage Prtljaga

1

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

2

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

3

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

4

Restaurant Faust VranËiÊ

N

Newstand Novinarnica

5

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

P

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

S

Shops Prodavaonice

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

U SPLITU, DUBROVNIKU i RIJECI autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 60 minuta prije leta.

Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

In SPLIT, DUBROVNIK and RIJEKA airport buses leave 90 minutes before the flight, and in ZADAR 60 minutes before the flight.

The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing.

Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) - Zagreb (zraËna luka) - Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) Rijeka - Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Cijena karte u jednom smjeru: 145 kuna.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) - Zagreb Airport - Departure at 5.00 and 11.00 hours.

Minibus service from Zagreb Airport - Rijeka - Departure at 15.30 and 21.00. Price of a one-way ticket: 145 Kunas.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb (do 30. listopada 2010.): Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb (until 30 October 2010):

5.00 5.30 6.00 6.30

7.00 7.30 8.00 8.30

9.00 10.00 11.00 11.30

12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30

14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30

16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30

18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30

20.00

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 9.00 8.00 9.30 8.30 10.30

11.30 12.00 12.30

13.00 13.30 14.00

14.30 15.00 15.30

16.00 16.30 17.00

17.30 18.00 18.30

19.00 19.30 20.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-305, 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu i Splitu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn.

The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb and Split is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas.

Autobusi iz Zagreba polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova.

Bus departures in Zagreb are an hour and a half prior for domestic flights and two hours prior for international flights.

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ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI? Dragi putnici!

Pred nama je ljeto, vrijeme putovanja na godiπnji odmor. Stoga vam predlaæemo da, bilo da se nalazite na nekome egzotiËnome mjestu, u nesvakidaπnjoj situaciji ili jednostavno uæivate u druπtvu dragih ljudi, fotografskim aparatom ovjekovjeËite lijepe trenutke vaπega æivota, poπaljete nam fotografije i moæda baπ vi osvojite vrijedne nagrade.

Autoricu fotografije Æeljku Jurletu odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovom broju te je nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa.

Promidžbenim poklon-paketom nagradit Êemo Renatu Koæul i Mirjanu Nociar.

Pozivamo vas da nam nastavite slati svoje fotografije jer vas i u iduÊem broju oËekuju vrijedne nagrade.

Dear Passengers,

Renata Koæul

Summer is here, the time for going on holiday. And if you find yourself in an exotic place, in an unusual situation or simply in good company, we suggest that you capture this happy moment on camera and send us the photograph, and perhaps you will win a valuable prize!

We chose a photograph by Æeljka Jurleta as the best in this issue, and she wins two Croatia Airlines return tickets.

Renata Koæul i Mirjana Nociar will also receive prizes.

We invite you to keep on sending us your photographs, for there are more prizes in store in the next issue.

Nina ButiÊ

Putovanja su uæitak, a mogu biti i zabavna kad vidimo karneval i vesele ljude.

Travelling is fun and can be entertaining when you see a carnival and happy people.

Volim putovati jer nema limita.

I love to travel for there are no limits.

Mirjana Nociar

Dubravka Zaja

Dio je Ëari putovanja i u nepredvidivosti.

Part of the charm of travelling is its unpredictability.

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Davor IvankoviÊ

Dijana Nazor

WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL?

Ranka Avelini

Kambodža - zadivljujuÊa zemlja povjerljivih i miroljubivih pogleda.

Cambodia - Amazing land of trustful and peaceful looks.

Oboæavam osjeÊaj kad se u roku od nekoliko sati leta naem okruæena potpuno novim ljudima, kulturom i obiËajima.

I love the feeling when, after a few hours’ flight, I find myself surrounded by new people, a new culture and new customs.

Volim putovati jer samo rad bez putovanja život Ëini dosadnim.

I love to travel because all work and ... no trips makes Jack a dull boy.

Michel Moninot

Æivot je jedno putovanje; ako putujeπ, imaπ dva æivota.

Life itself is a journey, and if you travel you have two lives.

Volim putovati zato πto se sreÊem s nepredvidivim dogaajima.

Because I come across unforeseeable events.

Željka Jurleta - Prva nagrada/First prize

Vlado Aleksovski

Volim putovanja jer mijenjaju me, obogaÊuju i uËe drugim kulturama i vrijednostima.

I love travelling because it changes me, enriches me and teaches me about different cultures and values.

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ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 616-01-53 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/ugd@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 18:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept.

Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team Tel. +385 (0) 91 77 312 Brojevi telefonskog check in-a / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is:

HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam WTC, Tower B, Level 4, Schiphol Boulevard 207, 1118 BH Luchthaven Schiphol Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Fax (+31-20) 316-42-81 amsto@croatiaairlines.hr BeË / Wien Airport Office Objekt / Building 645, Room 115-116, A-1300 Wien Flughafen Tel. (+43-1) 7007 359-62, 361-63 Fax (+43-1) 7007 359-63, 361-64 vieap@croatiaairlines.hr Bruxelles Brussels Airport Box 31, 1930 Zaventem Airport office: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5133 Airport counter: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik ZraËna luka, Airport Dubrovnik 20 117 »ilipi, Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, 60 313 Frankfurt, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London 2 The Lanchesters, 162-164 Fulham Palace Road, London, W6 9ER, Tel. (+44-20) 8563-00-22, 0844 3710 310 (UK only) Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 Airport Heathrow,

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ADDRESSES Room 531, Terminal 1, Zone K Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-46-83 Fax (+44-20) 8754-73-77 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München Flughafen Franz Josef-Strauss, Terminal 2, Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Büro B.4.1322, 85 356 München, Tel. (+49-89) 97-592-730/731 Fax (+49-89) 97-592-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr Paris

Roissypôle, Le Dôme 1, 3th floor

Rue de la Haye

BP 18913 Tremblay en France

95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-4000 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-5511 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula Ulica Carrarina 8, 52100 Pula, Tel. (+385-52) 218-909 (+385-52) 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyto@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5, 51 000 Rijeka, Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma ZraËna luka, Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci Torre Uffici 2, Room 518 00054 Fiumicino Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo ZraËna luka Sarajevo, Airport Khurta Schorka 36, 71 210 Sarajevo, Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skoplje Ul. Dame Gruev 3, 1000 Skoplje, Tel. (+389-2) 3115-858, 3296-967 Fax (+389-2) 3114-203 ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpto@croatiaairlines.hr Split Obala hrv. nar. preporoda 9, 21 000 Split, Tel. (+385-21) 362-997, 362-055 (komercijala) Fax (+385-21) 362-567 sputo@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar Poljana Natka Nodila 7, 23 000 Zadar, Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-23) 343-045 Fax (+385-23) 312-930 zadto@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb Zrinjevac 17, 10 000 Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 48-19-633 Fax (+385-1) 48-19-632 ZraËna luka Zagreb, Zagreb Airport, 10 150 Zagreb, Pleso Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-585 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Zürich Limmatquai 138, 8001 Zürich, Tel. (+41-44) 261-08-40 Fax (+41-44) 261-08-83 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr

Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe Atena / Athens Intermodal Air (GSA) 25, Filellinon Str. 105 57 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30-210) 32-17-679, 32-17-750 Fax (+30-210) 32-49-152 Barcelona Global Representacion Turistica (GRT) c/Valencia, 266, 4/1a 08007 Barcelona Tel. (+34-934) 875-775 Fax (+34-934) 880-121 Bratislava CK Blue Sky Travel (GSA) 1. poschodie, Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel. (+421) 5262 2375 Istanbul ZENITH Services (GSA) Head Office: Ordu Caddesi, No. 206/1, Laleli 34134 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 5124-232, 513-2667 Fax (+90-212) 5124-234, 5125-436 Airport Office: Istanbul Ataturk Airport International Terminal Departure Floor Yesilkoy 34149 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 465-50-23, 465-40-92 Fax (+90-212) 465-40-92 Podgorica OKI AIR INTERNATIONAL (GSA) Ivana VujoševiÊa 46, 81 000 Podgorica Montenegro Tel. (+382-20) 201-201 Tel./Fax (+382-20) 241-154 Prag / Praha / Prague CK Blue Sky Travel (GSA) Na Perštýne 1, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. (+420-2) 2222-2235 Fax (+420-2) 2222-0237 Priπtina / Prishtina AltaVia Travel (GSA) Head Office: Rr. Luan Haradinaj #27 10031 Prishtina, Kosovo Tel. (+381-38) 233-833 Fax (+381-38) 245-845 Airport Office: Prishtina International Airport Tel. (+381-38) 594-111 Fax (+381-38) 594-222 Bliski istok / Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd (GSA) 1 Ben Yehuda St., Migdalor blgd. 12th Floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. (+972-3) 516-7181, 516-7140 Fax (+972-3) 516-7174 SAD / USA Networld Inc. / Croatia America (GSA) 300 Lanidex Plaza, Parsippany NJ 07054, Tel. (+1-973) 884-3401 Fax (+1-973) 428-3929 Toll free 888-462-7628 Australija / Australia Sky Air Services (GSA) 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. (+61-3) 9699-9355 Fax (+61-3) 9699-9388 Novi Zeland / New Zealand Croatia Times Travel Ltd. NZ (GSA) PO Box 104-056; Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Road, Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. (+64-9) 837-9897 Fax (+64-9) 837-9898 Japan Daruma Corporation (GSA) 106 Liberty Hill 3, 3-30-5 Yakumo, Meguro-Ku Tokyo 152 Tel. (+81-3) 5701-5651 Fax (+81-3) 5701-5652