Inflight proljece 2016 web

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STAY BALANCED Experience Zagreb’s unique blend of old-world charm and youthful vibe. From its enchanting Upper Town, green parks and picturesque open-air markets, to a multitude of restaurants, cafés, theatres, museums and galleries, the City will provide you with the ideal setting to recover your balance.

The irresistibly healthful offerings at The Westin Zagreb allow you to indulge in the pure joys of deliciously wholesome food, revitalizing activities, and amazingly restful sleep.

The perfect venue in an ideal setting - what more can one ask for? Model your unforgettable experience with one of our fantastic special offers!

• Westin Stay Balanced Wellness package • Stay 2 nights | Save 20% FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO MAKE A RESERVATION, VISIT WESTINZAGREB.COM OR WESTIN.COM/ZAGREB, CALL + 385 1 4892 058, OR SIMPLY E-MAIL US AT RESERVATIONS@WESTINZAGREB.COM

©2014 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. SPG, Preferred Guest, Aloft, Element, Four Points, Le Méridien, Sheraton, St. Regis, The Luxury Collection, W, Westin and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms & conditions visit westin.com/zagreb

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ∆ulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Rukovoditeljica marketinga/ Head of Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ

Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek

Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o.

Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Drago nam je što ste i ovom prilikom odabrali naš zrakoplov za putovanje do vašeg odredišta.

Dobro nam došli.

Raduje nas što u ljetnom redu letenja, koji vrijedi od 27. ožujka do 29. listopada, širimo mrežu letova, a ponudu smo prilagodili vašoj povećanoj potražnji tijekom turističke sezone.

Zadovoljstvo nam je što vam možemo ponuditi nove izravne letove iz Zagreba u četiri atraktivna europska odredišta - Prag, Milano, Lisabon i Sankt Peterburg.

U Lisabon, najzapadniji glavni grad kontinentalne Europe, te zlatni Prag naši će zrakoplovi letjeti triput na tjedan, a u europsko modno središte Milano te bivšu rusku prijestolnicu Sankt Peterburg dvaput na tjedan. Dakako, želja nam je da i mnogi turisti iz Portugala, Češke, Rusije i Italije iskoriste nove mogućnosti putovanja i dođu u posjet Hrvatskoj.

Pridonijeli smo i višoj razini naše usluge novom aplikacijom na mobilnim uređajima, koja će vam omogućiti kupnju karata, prijavu za let i primitak ukrcajne propusnice u obliku bar koda te mnoge druge korisne informacije vezane uz putovanje. A prijava za let preko naše web stranice odsad je, uz polazne, dostupna i za transferne letove.

Također, dostupna vam je i Star Gold Track usluga kojom se putnicima poslovnoga razreda i vlasnicima Star Gold kartice omogućuje brži prolazak kroz sigurnosne preglede te kontrola putničkih dokumenata u MZL Zagreb.

Osobito smo zadovoljni time što već treću godinu zaredom ostvarujemo pozitivne poslovne rezultate, najviše stoga što dobri poslovni rezultati ujedno predstavljaju kvalitetnu podlogu za dodatno unapređenje naše usluge vama - na zemlji i u zraku.

Nadamo se da i sada, dok letite s nama listajući proljetni broj našega putnog časopisa, uživate u letu, kao i u raznovrsnim sadržajima koji su pred vama.

Zahvaljujemo vam što ste naš putnik i vjerujemo da ćete u proširenoj ponudi naših letova pronaći neko odredište u koje biste željeli putovati.

Dear passengers,

D. FabijaniÊ

A. GrubeliÊ

Poπtovani put­ni­ci!

Our aircraft will fly to Lisbon - the westernmost capital city in continental Europe, and to the Golden City of Prague three times a week, while flights to the European fashion centre - Milan, and the former Russian capital - St. Petersburg, are scheduled twice a week. Of course, our hopes are that numerous tourists from Portugal, the Czech Republic, Russia and Italy will also make use of these new travel opportunities to visit Croatia.

We have contributed to a higher level of service with a new mobile application, which enables users to purchase tickets, check-in for flights and receive boarding passes in the form of a bar-code, as well as access a lot of other useful information regarding flights. Checking-in via our website is now also available for transfer flights as well as departure flights.

Also available is the Star Gold Track service, which enables business class passengers and Gold Star card holders faster passage through security checks and passport controls at Zagreb International Airport.

We are particularly pleased that we have been realizing positive business results for a third consecutive year, mostly because good business results also represent firm foundations for the additional improvement of our service - both on the ground and in the air.

We hope you are enjoying the flight as you flip through this spring edition of our in-flight magazine, as well as the variety of contents in front of you.

We thank you for being our passenger, and we believe our expanded offer of flights includes a destination you would like to travel to.

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines tel. +385-1-616-01-26 Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

We are glad you have chosen our aircraft to travel to your destination. Welcome.

During the summer timetable, between the 27th of March and the 29th of October, we offer an expanded network of flights, based on your increased demand during the tourist season. We are pleased that we can offer new direct flights from Zagreb to four attractive European destinations - Prague, Milan, Lisbon and St. Petersburg.

Vaš, Sincerely yours,

Krešimir KuËko Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO

SADRÆAJ CONTENTS

6 Razgovor: Bruno Vlahek Pijanističko umijeće fantastičnog virtuoza Za svoja umjetnička postignuća ovaj vrhunski hrvatski pijanist i svestrani umjetnik nagrađen je Počasnom diplomom koju mu je osobno uručila španjolska kraljica Sofija.

D. Fabijanić

Interview: Bruno Vlahek The mastery of piano by fantastic virtuoso For his artistic accomplishments, this top class Croatian pianist and versatile artist was awarded an Honorary Diploma, presented to him personally by Queen Sophia of Spain.

16 Zagrebačke galerije Mjesto suradnje ljudi i umjetnosti Zagreb nimalo ne zaostaje za svjetskim trendom uživanja u galerijskim prostorima, koji uvlače posjetitelje u svoje atraktivne programe.

Zagreb’s galleries A place of cooperation between people and art Zagreb does not lag behind the global trend of enjoying gallery spaces which draw visitors in with their attractive programs.

Proljeće/Spring 2016 www.croatiaairlines.com

46 Parkovi prirode Spektakularna Telašćica Smještena na južnom dijelu Dugog otoka, jedna je od najljepših panorama Jadranskog mora.

Nature parks Spectacular Telašćica Located on the southern end of Dugi Otok, it is one of the most beautiful panoramas on the Adriatic Sea.

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CROATIA AIRLINES

28 Prirodne ljepote Bilogora, ljepota slobodnog spusta Najniža hrvatska planina još je neotkriveni dragulj kontinentalnog turizma.

Natural beauties Bilogora, the beauty of free ride The lowest Croatian mountain is still an undiscovered jewel of continental tourism.

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SADRÆAJ CONTENTS

56 Obala Pakoštane između dviju voda Jedinstveni spoj mora i jezera, slanoga i slatkoga, mašte i zbilje.

Coast Pakoštane between two waters A unique blend of the sea and the lake, saltwater and freshwater, imagination and reality.

74 Otoci Prvić, okupan mirisima Ta zelena oaza pošteđena je suvremene gužve, buke i užurbanost. Otok rijetkih stanovnika i danas živi svoj jednostavan život.

Islands Prvić, full of aromas This green oasis has remained spared of modern day congestion, noise and bustle…

This island of few residents still lives its simple life to this day.

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak This is your personal copy

CROATIA AIRLINES

Our destinations Milan, the best of Italy Milan is one of the European capitals not to be missed by anybody who wants to understand and experience Italy and also enjoy the highest achievements of civilization.

106 Kontinentalna Hrvatska Stara Kapela i priča o uspjehu Zbog ljubavi prema nasljeđu, duhu prošlih vremena, sjaju i toplini ognjišta naših predaka, dogodilo se ovo malo, lijepo čudo u Slavoniji.

132 Gastronomija Hrvatske gastronomske čarolije Paralelno s razvojem restoranske, razvila se inovativna scena, koja nudi simbiozu fine hrane i suvenira.

Inland Croatia Stara Kapela and a story of success This small miracle in Slavonia was made possible thanks to the love of heritage, the spirit of times past and the glow and warmth of our ancestors’ fireplaces.

Gastronomy Croatian gastro magic The restaurant scene has simultaneously developed along with the innovative scene, offering a symbiosis of good food and souvenirs.

150 Sport Hrvatsko rukometno čudo Na ovogodišnjem Prvenstvu Europe hrvatski su rukometaši pokazali svima da su čuda moguća.

Sports The Croatian handball miracle At this year’s Handball Championship, the Croatian handball team proved to everybody that miracles are possible.

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86 Naša odredišta Milano, sve najbolje od Italije Milano je jedna od nezaobilaznih europskih metropola za sve one koji žele razumjeti i doživjeti Italiju, ali i uživati u najvišim civilizacijskim dometima.

A wondrous adventure Zlatni Rat Beach

Hotels 30 m from beaches

Everything you need in one place • 12 hotels (3* and 4*) near the famous beaches on Makarska Riviera (Punta Rata Beach) and Brač Island (Zlatni Rat Beach) • Free Wi-Fi, breakfast included • Wellness, adventure sports and excursions to the natural and cultural attraction sites

NEW 2016! Direct flights Zagreb - Brač island Tuesdays and Saturdays, Croatia Airlines

Find Special Deals at: www.bluesunhotels.com, +385 1 3844 288 BOL • BRELA • TUČEPI • STARIGRAD PAKLENICA CROATIA AIRLINES

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RAZGOVOR BRUNO VLAHEK

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CROATIA AIRLINES

Piπe/By Zlatko Madžar Fotografije/Photos Damir Fabijanić

INTERVIEW BRUNO VLAHEK

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Pijanističko umijeće Brune Vlaheka, uglednoga zagrebačkoga pijanista s madridskom adresom, zarana je prepoznato na prestižnim koncertnim podijima diljem svijeta. Pred njim su turneje po Kini, Španjolskoj, Mađarskoj, Portugalu te debi u Chicagu.

Taj svestrani umjetnik za svoja postignuća primio je mnoga priznanja, a nagrađen je i Počasnom diplomom, koju mu je osobno uručila španjolska kraljica Sofija. Bavi se i skladanjem te redovito nastupa i u klavirskom duu D & B, sa suprugom Dubravkom Vukalović.

Bruno Vlahek, the renowned Zagreb-born pianist who lives in Madrid, was recognized as a piano virtuoso at prestigious concert stages around the world early on. He is about to go on tour in China, Spain, Hungary and Portugal, and will have a debut performance in Chicago. This versatile artist has received many awards for his accomplishments and has also been awarded an Honorary Diploma from Queen Sofía of Spain. He is also a composer and regularly performs as a part of the D & B piano duo with his wife, Dubravka Vukalović.

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rvatski pijanist i skladatelj Bruno Vlahek proslavio je 11. veljače trideseti rođendan. Taj međunarodno ugledni zagrebački glazbenik sa stalnom madridskom adresom već je proputovao sve kontinente. Pijanističko umijeće fantastičnog virtuoza Brune Vlaheka, koji dubinom glazbene misli očarava publiku, zarana je prepoznato na prestižnim koncertnim podijima današnjice: Palau de la Musica u Barceloni, Gasteig u Münchenu, Mozarteum u Salzburgu, Akademija Ferenc Liszt u Budimpešti, Auditorio Nacional de Música u Madridu, Museum of Art u Tel Avivu, Shanghai Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Centre…

Osim brojnih recitala i solističkih nastupa uz orkestre, Bruno Vlahek redovito nastupa i u klavirskom duu D&B, u kojemu muzicira sa svojom suprugom Dubravkom Vukalović.

Međunarodnu karijeru mladoga hrvatskog pijanista trasirale su njegove pobjede na međunarodnim pijanističkim natjecanjima, održanima u Zagrebu (2007.), Lleidi (2008.), Parizu (2010.) i Šangaju (2012.).

Dobitnik je nagrade Artists on Globe 2014., te još nekoliko posebnih priznanja koja su mu dodijeljena u Švicarskoj, Hrvatskoj, Španjolskoj i Izraelu. Za svoja umjetnička postignuća 2011. godine nagrađen je Počasnom diplomom koju mu je osobno uručila španjolska kraljica Sofija.

Osim intenzivnog koncertiranja i pedagoškog angažmana (profesura na Konzervatoriju Katarina Gurska u Madridu), svestrani Bruno Vlahek bavi se i skladanjem. Njegov autorski opus tvori četrdesetak orkestralnih, komornih, solističkih i vokalnih skladbi raznih žanrova, koje su doživjele izvedbe u Chicagu, Londonu, Berlinu, Amsterdamu, Lisabonu, Pragu, Moskvi, Salzburgu, Beču, Cambridgeu, Sankt Peterburgu i Seulu, te 2010. na Svjetskim danima glazbe 2010. u Sydneyu. U prosincu 2012. Vlahek je osvojio prvu nagradu na 33. međunarodnom skladateljskom natjecanju Cristóbal Halffter u Španjolskoj, a notna izdanja njegovih skladbi za sada su objavljena u Velikoj Britaniji i Sjedinjenim Američkim Državama.

U aktualni koncertni kalendar Brune Vlaheka upisane su turneje po Kini, Mađarskoj, Španjolskoj i Portugalu, te debi u Chicagu, gdje će izvesti Prvi klavirski koncert Petra Iljiča Čajkovskog. Umjetnik sada dovršava svoju novu skladbu, koju piše za Helsinški komorni zbor.  Nakon svoje prve diplome, stečene na Muzičkoj akademiji u Zagrebu, otputovali ste u Madrid i nastavili se usavršavati na tamošnjoj Visokoj školi za glazbu kraljice Sofije, i to u majstorskom razredu karizmatičnoga ruskog pedagoga Dmitrija Baškirova. Bila je to velika provjera

Vašega pijanističkog potencijala, ali i svega onoga što ste prethodno naučili od svog zagrebačkog profesora Vladimira Krpana, zar ne?

- Kako je glazba univerzalni jezik sastavljen od raznovrsnih utjecaja, iskustava i tendencija, tako je za put sazrijevanja svakog mladog glazbenika nužno napustiti udobnost vlastite sredine, otići u svijet, i pokušati odškrinuti svaka vrata na tom putu, da bi se svi ti elementi na kraju složili u cjelinu. Nakon diplome u Zagrebu završio sam još i dva poslijediplomska studija, i to na Haute Ecole de Musique u Lausannei kod Jeana-Françoisa Antoniolija te na Hochschule für Musik u Kölnu u klasi Vasilija Lobanova. Upravo na zadnjoj godini magisterija u Kölnu ponuđeno mi je mjesto asistenta na zagrebačkoj Akademiji, te sam tih godinu dana prvu polovicu tjedna boravio u Zagrebu predavajući studentima, a drugu sam polovicu i sâm bio student. Praktički sam živio u avionu između ta dva grada. Pošto je moj nekonformistički duh stalno u potrazi za novim izazovima, umjesto građenja profesorske karijere u tako ranoj dobi, odlučio sam prihvatiti mogućnost koja mi se pružila da nadogradim i obogatim sve što sam dotad postigao učeći od takve glazbeničke osobnosti kao što je Dmitrij Baškirov. Značilo je to ponovnu promjenu okoline, svojevrsnu neizvjesnost, ali i borbu za vlastito mjesto među najboljima, koja se itekako isplatila.  Profesor Baškirov ustoličio je na pijanistički Olimp današnjice velikane poput Arkadija Volodosa, Dmitrija Aleksejeva, Dang Thai Sona i Nikolaja Demidenka.

Koje su osobitosti njegove pedagoške metode i što ste Vi od njega usvojili?

- K Dmitriju Baškirovu došao sam u dobi od 24 godine, dakle već kao formirana ličnost s već stečenim odličnim obrazovanjem. Bio mi je mentor u pravom smislu riječi, zahtijevajući vrhunski profesionalizam i širenje granica vlastitih mogućnosti, a istodobno njegujući prisni, gotovo obiteljski odnos. Njegov pristup znači iskren i predan odnos prema skladatelju i glazbenom djelu, koji ne poznaje liniju manjeg otpora, kao i odgovornost prema publici. Satovi s njim bile su prave majstorske radionice kreiranja zvuka, traženja istinskog značenja glazbe sakrivenoga iza notnog papira te perfekcionizma starog kova. Njegove lucidne napomene i male tajne velikog majstora, koje mi je usadio, pamtit ću cijeli život.  Početak Vaše međunarodne karijere pospješile su pobjede na uglednim pijanističkim natjecanjima, a uz to i osobno priznanje španjolske kraljice Sofije, koje Vam je dodijeljeno kao najuspješnijem studentu naraštaja na njezinoj madrid-

slijedeći ipak uvelike određenu ideju drugog skladatelja, nego sasvim individualnu i osobnu. A dokle će god čovjek kao kreativno biće stvarati, rasti, i pritom imati što za kazati, u glazbi - bilo klasičnoj ili kojoj god drugoj vrhunskoj glazbi, nikad neće biti iscrpljeno sve ono što se ima reći.  Pred glazbenu javnost redovito izlazite kao pijanist koji supotpisuje djela drugih skladatelja, no sada se sve češće u svijetu izvode Vaše skladbe za koje snosite autorsku odgovornost. Pretpostavljam da su to posve različita iskustva.

sada ima pedesetak i u žanrovskome i u izvedbenome pogledu vrlo raznolikih partitura. Otkud Vaša tolika potreba za skladanjem, i to u ovome vremenu kada se mnogima čini da je u klasičnoj glazbi već izrečeno sve što se imalo reći?!

- Skladati sam počeo iz unutarnjeg poriva.

Bila je to potreba da stvorim vlastito djelo, unesem u njega neku svoju poruku, emociju i misao - ne samo onu reproduktivne naravi,

- Različita su zato što najčešće nisam prisutan prilikom izvedbi vlastitih skladbi, jer učestale su i održavaju se na raznim krajevima svijeta - od Europe, Sjeverne i Južne Amerike, Rusije, Azije do Australije. Ipak, kad uspijem prisustvovati ili čak sudjelovati u izvedbi, to mi donosi veliko zadovoljstvo. Sličnost je pak u radu i pripremi, dakle onom dijelu koji provodim sam zadubljen u svoje misli, sazrijevanjem ideje koju nerijetko otkrijem u snovima,

Jetta Deplazes

Yi Zhi Wang

skoj Akademiji. Što su preduvjeti za uspjeh na prenapučenoj pijanističkoj sceni današnjice?

- Za početak bitni su talent, rad, ljubav prema glazbi, vizija, ambicija, individualnost, radoznalost, stalno usavršavanje, a i ponešto sreće nije naodmet. Iako sam relativno kasno počeo učiti svirati na klaviru kao devetogodišnjak, zarana sam stao nastupati, a već nakon dvije godine učenja sviranja ostvario sam i prvu pobjedu na međunarodnom natjecanju. Sve je išlo vrlo brzo, pa sam i nakon samo šest godina glazbene škole već bio na Akademiji, istodobno svirajući koncerte, odlazeći na natjecanja, seminare i ljetne škole i zanimajući se za razne aspekte glazbe. Mnoga su mi vrata otvorila upravo nagrade osvojene na međunarodnim natjecanjima, ponajprije zbog koncerata u velikim svjetskim dvoranama, koji su sastavni dio tih nagrada. Jedini sam mladi umjetnik iz Hrvatske, koji je bio pozvan na jedinstveni festival u švicarskom Verbieru, što mi je također stvorilo neke daljnje mogućnosti.

Uslijedili su primjerice i pozivi na Daleki istok, pa sam tako sad već čest gost i kineskih pozornica, gdje klasična glazba i glazbenici uživaju status rock-zvijezdâ.  Koji su skladatelji i glazbeni pravci najzastupljeniji u Vašemu klavirskom repertoaru, i zašto imate potrebu da se kao vrlo tražen pijanist dodatno izrazite nastupajući i kao orguljaš?

- U svakoj glazbi uspijem naći nešto što mi je intrigantno, neovisno o pravcu ili razdoblju kad je nastala, pa se to očituje i u širini mog repertoara. Ipak, ako moram navesti neke skladatelje koji su mi osobito bliski, onda su to njemačka 3B - Bach, Beethoven i Brahms, volim velika romantična djela, zatim neoklasicizam Igora Stravinskog i sve što je značio za kasniji razvoj glazbe, francusku glazbu - posebice Saint-Saënsa, Ravela i Poulenca, klavirske koncerte Čajkovskog i Prokofjeva, kao i suvremenu glazbu u kojoj ima nevjerojatno zanimljivih djela koja tek

trebaju postati mainstream. To se očituje i u mom izboru djela za CD koji sam nedavno snimio, a trebao bi izaći ove godine - na kojem su Bernstein, Ligeti i Stravinski. Izraziti se pak preko drugog instrumenta za mene je kao kad pisac poliglot stvara na stranom jeziku. Klavir je moj materinji jezik i zato moj najintimniji i najneposredniji doticaj s glazbom, ali postoje neke čarobne stvari koje se mogu izraziti samo na nekome određenom jeziku, a jedan takav meni poseban jezik jesu orgulje.  Zarana ste se počeli baviti i skladanjem, pa tako Vaš autorski opus već

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zapisivanjem i korigiranjem, tj. proučavanjem djela nekoga drugog skladatelja, vježbanjem klavira, oblikujući za instrumentom svaki ton i frazu na najvjerodostojniji način, te dajući im vlastiti pečat. To su svi oni sati, dani, mjeseci i godine rada, koji u samom koncertnom činu prođu u jednom dahu.  Često nastupate u duu sa suprugom, koja je također pijanistica. Koliko glazba pospješuje ili katkad možda i ometa Vaše životno zajedništvo?

- Dubravka i ja tvorimo neraskidivu vezu s glazbom, preko glazbe smo se uostalom i upoznali pa s njom dijelimo i svakodnevicu.

Ne treba zaboraviti da je ljubav na najljepše načine iskazana upravo glazbom. Kad pripremamo naše zajedničke koncerte, četveroručno ili na dva klavira, pokusi su nam nabijeni kreativnim eksperimentiranjem koje ponekad završi i svađom. Ali kad se slegne prašina, iz takvih trenutaka uvijek se izrodi nešto dragocjeno, te ne prestajemo učiti jedno od drugoga. Životna strast uvelike djeluje na naše zajedništvo u glazbi, a i obrnuto.  Kakav je Vaš uobičajeni radni dan i ostaje li Vam vremena i za nešto drugo osim glazbe?

- To uvelike ovisi o projektu kojim se u određenom trenutku bavim. Jedan sasvim regularni, nekoncertni dan sastoji se od nekoliko sati vježbanja klavira, držanja nastave mojim studentima, kontaktima s agentima o organizaciji nadolazećih koncerata ili narudžbama skladbi, a mir kasnih noćnih sati pak najviše mi odgovara za skladanje. Uz to volim slušati različitu glazbu, čitati, boraviti u prirodi, često vježbam, trčim, volim biti u dobroj formi, a u ravnotežu me dovodi obiteljski život i trenuci provedeni s mojom suprugom, kad oboje zaboravimo na svoje profesionalne obaveze.

Važno je voditi normalan život, sa svim njegovim radostima i razočaranjima. U protivnome, kako izraziti iste osjećaje u glazbi ako ih sam ne proživim? Na turnejama je pak raspored sasvim drugačiji i uglavnom se svodi na koncerte, pokuse s orkestrima, akustične pokuse koncertnih dvorana, intervjue, fotografiranja, kasne večere, neprekidno pakiranje kovčega, boravke u zračnim lukama i zrakoplovima, te više ili manje uspješne pokušaje prilagodbe na nerijetko egzotičnu hranu. Srećom, obožavam putovati i neopisivo me usrećuje upoznavati druge krajolike, kulture, običaje i svjetonazore. Uvijek nastojim ostaviti malo vremena da uz koncertni raspored u stranim zemljama uzmem fotografski aparat u ruke i upustim se u avanturu tipičnoga znatiželjnog turista.  Stječe se dojam da ste Španjolsku otprve posvema prigrlili kao svoju novu domovinu?

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Hrvat sam u srcu i to ništa ne može promijeniti.

Ali, otkad sam u Španjolsku došao još kao student, apsolutno me osvojila otvorenošću i srdačnošću ljudi, u čemu su slični nama Hrvatima, temperamentom, klimom, gastronomijom i povrh svega bogatstvom kulturne ponude. Madrid mi, kao žarište koje živi 24 sata na dan, sada savršeno odgovara za život i postao je moj drugi dom. 

O

n 11 February, the Croatian pianist and composer Bruno Vlahek celebrated his 30 th birthday. This internationally famous Zagreb-born musician, a permanent resident of Madrid, has already visited all the continents. The mastery of the piano by the fantastic virtuoso Bruno Vlahek, whose depth of musical thought enchants the audience, was recognized quite early on today’s prestigious concert stages: Palau de la Musica in Barcelona, Gasteig in Munich, Mozarteum in Salzburg, Ferenc Liszt Academy in Budapest, Auditorio Nacional de Música in Madrid, Museum of Art in Tel Aviv, Shanghai Concert Hall, Seoul Arts Centre…

In addition to numerous recitals and solo appearances with orchestras, Bruno Vlahek regularly performs as a part of the D & B piano duo alongside his wife, Dubravka Vukalović.

The young Croatian pianist’s international career has been steered by his winning performances at international piano competitions held in Zagreb (2007), Lleida (2008), Paris (2010) and Shangai (2012).

He is the winner of the Artists on Globe 2014 award and several other recognitions awarded to him in Switzerland, Croatia, Spain and Israel. In 2011, he received an Honorary Diploma, personally awarded to him by Queen Sofía of Spain for his artistic accomplishments.

In addition to frequent concert performances and teaching engagements (a professorship at the Katarina Gurska Conservatory in Madrid), the versatile artist Bruno Vlahek is also a composer. His authorial opus consists of about forty orchestral, chamber, solo and vocal pieces in different genres, which were performed in Chicago, London, Berlin, Amsterdam, Lisbon, Prague, Moscow, Salzburg, Vienna, Cambridge, St. Petersburg and Seoul, as well as at the 2010 World Music Days in Sydney. In December 2012, Vlahek won first prize at the 33rd Cristóbal Halffter International Composers’ Competition in Spain, and his compositions have so far been published as sheet music in the UK and USA. Bruno Vlahek’s current concert schedule includes tours around China, Hungary, Spain and Portugal, as well as a debut performance in Chicago, where he will perform Piano

Concerto No.1 by Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky.

The artist is currently completing his latest composition for the Helsinki Chamber Choir.  After your first diploma, obtained from the Academy of Music in Zagreb, you moved to Madrid and continued your education at Queen Sofía College, in the charismatic Russian professor Dmitry Bashkirov’s master class. This was a great test of your potential as a pianist, but also of everything you have previously learned from your professor in Zagreb, Vladimir Krpan, wasn’t it?

- As music is a universal language, made up of different influences, experiences and tendencies, for every young musician, the road to maturity necessitates leaving the comfort of one’s native environment, going out into the world, trying to peek behind every door on the way, in order to finally merge all these elements into a whole. After receiving my diploma in Zagreb I completed two post-graduate programs, at Haute École de Musique in Lausanne with Jean-François Antonioli, and at Hochschule für Musik in Cologne, in Vassily Lobanov’s class. It was during my final year of my master’s program in Cologne that I was offered the position of assistant at Zagreb Academy. For the next year I spent the first half of the week in Zagreb teaching students, while the other half of the week I was a student myself. I practically lived on planes between the two cities. Since my non-conformist spirit is constantly seeking new challenges, instead of building an academic career at a young age, I decided to use the opportunity I was given, namely to build upon and enrich everything I had accomplished so far, learning from musical giants like Dmitry Bashkirov. This meant another change of location, a sort of uncertainty, but also a struggle to find my own place among the very best - and this struggle has paid off.  Professor Bashkirov has led the great pianists of modern times, like Arcadi Volodos, Dmitry Alexeev, Dang Thai Son and Nikolay Demidenko to the Mount Olympus of piano art. What distinguishes his teaching style, and what have you adopted from him?

- I came to Dmitry Bashkirov when I was 24 years old, that is, as a fully formed person with a previously acquired excellent education. He was my mentor in the truest sense of the word, demanding the highest professionalism and expanding the limits of my own capacities, at the same time cultivating a close, almost familial relationship. His approach entails a sincere and committed relationship towards the composer and the musical piece, with-

certs, participating in competitions, seminars and summer schools, and taking interest in different aspects of music. Many doors were opened for me as a result of the prizes I won at international competitions, primarily through concerts in large concert halls around the world, which are a part of such prizes. I am the only young artist from Croatia to have been invited to a unique festival in Verbier in Switzerland, which also created some further opportunities for me. For example, invitations to the Far East followed, and thus I am now a frequent guest on stages in China, where classical music and musicians enjoy a similar status as rock stars.  Which composers and musical orientations are the most represented in your piano repertoire, and why do you have the need, as a highly sought-after pianist, to additionally express yourself performing as an organist?

- I can find something intriguing in any music, regardless of the genre or the period, which is reflected in the breadth of my repertoire. However, if I were to name some of the composers who are particularly dear to me, I would name the German 3Bs - Bach, Beethoven and Brahms. I also love great romantic works, as well as Igor Stravinsky’s neoclassicism and everything he meant for the subsequent

evolution of music, French music - particularly Saint-Saëns, Ravel and Poulenc, Tchaikovsky’s and Prokofiev’s piano concertos, as well as contemporary music which includes some incredibly interesting works which are yet to become mainstream. This is reflected in my selection of works for the CD I recently recorded which features Bernstein, Ligeti and Stravinsky. For me, expressing myself through another instrument is similar to a polyglot author writing in a foreign language. The piano is my mother tongue and by this very fact my most intimate and direct contact with music, but there are certain magical things which can only be expressed in a specific language, and one such language, very special to me, is the organ.  You started to compose early on, and thus your authorial opus already has some fifty pieces which are very diverse in terms of genre and performance.

Where did your great need to compose come from, especially at a time when many think that everything that was to be said in classical music has already been said?

- I started composing following an internal impetus. I felt the need to create a work of my own, infuse it with my own message, emotion and thought - not merely an interpretive one,

Ivan Posavec

out taking the path of least resistance, while fostering a sense of responsibility towards your audience. Classes with him were indeed master classes where sounds were created, the true meaning of music hidden behind the written score was sought, and all this was done with old-school perfectionism. His lucid comments and the great master’s little secrets of the trade are something I will remember my whole life.  The beginning of your international career was spurred by prizes won at prominent piano competitions, alongside the personal recognition from Queen Sofía of Spain which was awarded to you as the best student of your generation at her academy in Madrid. What are the requirements to succeed on the crowded pianist scene of today?

- To start, the essential things are talent, hard work, love of music, vision, ambition, individuality, curiosity and continuous education - and a little bit of luck doesn’t hurt either. Although I started playing the piano relatively late, at the age of 9, I began performing early on, and just two years after learning to play the piano I won my first international competition. Everything moved pretty fast, so after only six years of attending music school I had already enrolled at the academy, at the same time giving con-

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11

Angela Zhao

Važno je voditi normalan život, sa svim njegovim radostima i razočaranjima. U protivnome, kako izraziti iste osjećaje u glazbi ako ih sam ne proživim?

Fundación Albéniz

It is important to lead a normal life, with all its joys and disappointments, because how else can I express these emotions in music if I don’t experience them first hand?

following the largely determined idea of another composer, but fully individual and personal.

And as long as man, as a creative being, has the need to create, grow and say something through music - whether classical music or any other kind of top-rate music - things that need to be said will never be exhausted.  In the eyes of the musical audience you are known as a pianist who makes an interpretive contribution to the works of other composers, but now, more and more often, your own compositions, for which you bear responsibility as the author, are performed around the world.

I presume that these are completely different experiences.

12

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- They are different in the sense that I am, most often, not present when my works are performed, since these performances are frequent and held in different parts of the world -from Europe to North and South America, Russia, Asia and Australia. However, whenever I get the chance to be present or even participate in the performance, it is a great pleasure for me. What is similar about these two experiences is the work and preparation, that is, the segment where I spend time alone, immersed in my own thoughts, developing the ideas which are often revealed to me in my dreams. I write them down and make corrections, that is, I study the works by other composers, practice the piano, use the instrument to shape each tone and phrase in the most authentic way and give them my own signature. All these hours, months and years of work transpire in the blink of an eye during the concert experience.  You often perform as a duo with your wife who is also a pianist. How much does music enhance or, at times, perhaps, present an obstacle in your life together?

- Dubravka and I are inextricably connected to music, it was, after all, music that brought us together, and we share our daily lives with it.

We should not forget that it is through music

that love has always been expressed in the most beautiful ways! When preparing our joint concerts, either for four hands on one piano or on two pianos, our rehearsals are charged with creative experiments which sometimes even lead to fights! However, when the dust settles, such moments always bring forth something precious, and we never cease to learn from each other. Our life’s passion has a great impact on our shared experience of music, and the other way around.  What is your typical workday like, and do you have any time left for anything besides music?

- It largely depends on the project I am working on at a given moment. A completely regular, non-concert day consists of several hours of piano practice, classes with my students, contacting agents regarding the organization of upcoming concerts or orders for compositions, while peaceful night time hours are best suited for composition. In addition to this, I like to listen to different types of music, read and spend time in nature. I often work out and jog since I like to be fit, and my balance is restored with my family life and the time I spend with my wife, when we both forget about our professional obligations. It is important to lead a normal life, with all its joys and disappointments, because how else can I express these emotions in music if I don’t experience them first hand? On tours, the schedule is completely different and mostly comes down to concerts, rehearsals with orchestras, sound checks at concert halls, interviews, photo sessions, late dinners, constantly packing suitcases, spending time at airports and on planes, and more or less successful attempts at getting used to, very often, exotic food. Fortunately, I love to travel, and getting to know different landscapes, cultures, customs and world views gives me immense pleasure. I always try to set a little bit of time aside from my concert schedules in foreign countries to take a camera and embark on a typical curious tourist’s adventure.  One gets the impression that you embraced Spain as your new homeland right away?

- I am a Croat at heart and nothing can change that. However, ever since I came to Spain as a student, it has completely captured me with the openness and friendliness of its people who are in many respects similar to us Croats in terms of their temperament, climate, cuisine and, above all, the richness of the cultural offer, while Madrid, as a vibrant hub teeming with life around the clock, is currently a perfect residence for me and it has become my second home. 

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13

The na­ti­o­nal park of the Pli­tvi­ce La­kes, Cro­a­tia’s mo­st be­a­u­ti­ful and ce­le­bra­ted na­ti­o­nal park, is al­so a part of UNE­SCO’s wor­ld he­ri­ta­ge.

To je Hrvatska Re­pu­bli­ka Hrvat­ska smjeπte­na je uz istoË­nu oba­lu Ja­dran­skog mo­ra i u nje­go­vu za­le­u. Pro­teæe se od obro­na­ka Al­pa na sje­ve­ro­za­pa­du do pa­non­ske rav­ni­ce na isto­ku. Povrπina je nje­zi­na kop­na 56.542 Ëe­tvor­na ki­lo­me­tra, a povrπina te­ri­to­rijal-­ nog mo­ra 31.067 Ëe­tvor­nih ki­lo­me­ta­ra. U Hrvat­ skoj æivi, pre­ma po­pi­su iz 2011. go­di­ne, 4,284.889 stanovnika. Duæina je mor­ske oba­le 5835 km za­jed­no s oto­ci­ma, oto­Ëi­Êi­ma i gre­be­ni­ma.

Oto­ka, oto­Ëi­Êa i gre­be­na ima 1185, a na­se­lje­no je 47 oto­ka.

Sluæbe­ni je­zik je­st hrvat­ski, a pi­smo la­ti­niË­no.

Nov­Ëa­na je­di­ni­ca − ku­na.

Glav­ni je grad Za­greb (790.017 sta­nov­ni­ka), ko­ji je ujed­no ad­mi­ni­s­tra­tiv­no, kul­tur­no, aka­dem­sko i trgo­vaË­ko sre­diπte zem­lje.

Ustav Re­pu­bli­ke Hrvat­ske iz­gla­san je 22. pro­ sin­ca 1990., a me­u­na­rod­no je pri­zna­ta 15. si­jeË­nja 1992. go­di­ne.

Hrvatska je od 1. srpnja 2013. g. Ëlanica Europske unije.

This is Croatia The Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia li­es along the ea­st co­a­st of the Adri­a­tic Sea and its hin­ter­land. It stret­ches from the slo­pes of the Al­ps in the nor­th-we­st to the Pan­no­ni­an Pla­in in the ea­st. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its ter­ri­to­ri­al sea is 31,067 km2. According to the 2011 cen­sus, Cro­a­tia’s popu­la­ti­on was 4,284,889. The len­gth of its sea co­a­st is 5835 km, in­clu­ding islan­ds, islets and re­efs.

The­re are 1185 islan­ds, islets and re­efs, of which 47 islan­ds are in­ha­bi­ted.

The of­fi­ci­al lan­gu­a­ge is Cro­a­ti­an, and the of­ fi­ci­al script is La­tin. The cur­ren­cy is the Ku­na.

The ca­pi­tal is Za­greb (790,017 in­ha­bi­tan­ts), which is al­so the co­un­try’s ad­mi­ni­s­tra­ti­ve, cul­ tu­ral, aca­de­mic and eco­no­mic cen­ter.

The Con­sti­tu­ti­on of the Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia was adop­ted on 22 De­cem­ber 1990, and the co­untry re­ce­i­ved in­ter­na­ti­o­nal re­cog­ni­ti­on on 15 Ja­nu­ary 1992.

Croatia became an EU member state on 1st July 2013.

Nacionalni parkovi ­­Hrvat­ska ima osam na­ci­o­nal­nih par­ko­va, od kojih su Ëe­ti­ri u pla­nin­skom po­dru­Ëju (Pa­kle­ni­ca, Pli­tviËka je­ze­ra, Ri­snjak i Sje­ver­ni Ve­le­bit), a Ëe­ti­ri na obal­nom po­dru­Ëju (Bri­ju­ni, Kor­na­ti, Krka i Mljet).

Nji­ma, kao pro­stor oso­bi­to vri­jed­ne pri­rod­ne baπti­ne, tre­ba pri­do­da­ti i po­dru­Ëja pod stro­gom zaπti­tom pri­ro­de, re­zer­va­te, spo­me­ni­ke pri­ro­de, par­ko­ve pri­ro­de. Zbog svih njih Hrvat­sku mno­gi sma­tra­ju jed­nim od naj­ljepπih eu­rop­skih vrto­va.

National parks Cro­a­tia has eig­ht na­ti­o­nal par­ks, fo­ur of which are lo­ca­ted in the mo­un­ta­in re­gi­on (Pa­kle­ni­ca, 14

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Pli­tvi­ce La­kes, Ri­snjak and Nor­thern Ve­le­bit), and fo­ur in the co­a­stal re­gi­on (Bri­ju­ni, Kor­na­ti, Krka and Mljet). Be­si­des the­se, cer­ta­in are­as un­der strict na­tu­re pro­tec­ti­on ∑ re­ser­ves, na­ tu­ral mo­nu­men­ts and na­tu­ral par­ks ∑ sho­uld be men­ti­o­ned as a na­tu­ral he­ri­ta­ge of spe­ci­al va­lue. They ha­ve all con­tri­bu­ted to Cro­a­tia’s be­ing con­si­de­red one of the mo­st be­a­u­ti­ful gar­dens of Eu­ro­pe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvat­ska obi­lu­je kul­tur­no-po­vi­je­snim spo­me­ ni­ci­ma iz svih ra­zdob­lja, zbog bur­nih po­vi­je­ snih zbi­va­nja i pre­ple­ta­nja utje­ca­ja ra­zli­Ëi­tih kul­tu­ra. Nje­zi­nu oba­lu ka­rak ­te­ri­zi­ra­ju utje­ca­ji me­di­te­ran­ske kul­tu­re, mno­gi an­tiË­k i spo­me­ ni­ci, spo­me­ni­ci iz rim­skog ra­zdob­lja i ra­no­ga sred­njeg vi­je­ka, ro­ma­niË­ko-sa­k ral­na baπti­na te niz oËu­va­nih ka­rak­te­ri­stiË­nih me­di­te­ran­skih ur­ba­nih cje­li­na. Kon­ti­nen­tal­na Hrvat­ska dio je sred­njo­e­u­rop­s ko­g a kul­tur­nog kru­g a i isti­Ë e se mno­gim pra­po­vi­je­snim na­la­zi­ma sv­jet­ske vaæno­sti, sta­rim gra­do­vi­ma, utvrda­ma i dvor­ ci­ma ka­sno­ga sred­njeg vi­je­ka, kul­tur­nim spo­ me­ni­ci­ma i ar­hi­tek­tu­rom iz ra­zdob­lja ba­ro­ka.

Tri hrvat­ske ur­ba­ne cje­li­ne i dva spo­me­niË­ka kom­plek­sa ima­ju sta­tus spo­me­ni­ka sv­jet­ske kul­tur­ne baπti­ne, ko­ji do­dje­lju­je Une­sco. To su ka­sno­an­tiË­ka Di­o­k le­ci­ja­no­va pa­la­Ëa, pre­gra­ e­na ti­je­kom sto­lje­Êa u sred­njov­je­kov­ni Split, gra­do­vi Du­brov­nik i Tro­gir te Eu­fra­zi­je­va ba­zi­li­ ka u Po­re­Ëu i ka­te­dra­la sv. Ja­ko­va u ©ibe­ni­ku.

Na­ci­o­nal­ni park Pli­t viË­ka je­ze­ra, naj­ljepπi i najpozna­ti­ji hrvat­ski na­ci­o­nal­ni park, ta­ko­er je dio Une­sco­ve Sv­jet­ske baπti­ne.

A past for the present Cro­a­tia is rich in cul­tu­ral and hi­sto­ri­cal monuments from all eras, due to the tur­bu­lent even­ ts of hi­story and the in­ter­la­cing of in­flu­en­ces of dif ­fe­rent cul­tu­res. Its co­a­st is cha­rac­te­ri­zed by the in­flu­e nces of Me­di­ter­ra­ne­an cul­tu­re, nu­m e­ro­u s an­c i­e nt re­m a­i ns, mo­n u­m en­ts of the Ro­m an era and ear­ly Mid­d le Ages, a Ro­ma­ne­sque chur­ch he­ri­ta­ge and a num­ber of di­s tin­c ti­ve Me­d i­ter­r a­n e­a n ur­b an en­ti­ti­e s that ha­ve be­en pre­ser ­ved. Inland Cro­a­tia is a part of the Cen­tral Eu­ro­pe­an cul­tu­ral circle and is di­stin­gu­i­shed by nu­me­ro­us pre­hi­sto­ric fin­din­gs of wor­ld sig­ni­fi­cance, by old tow­ns, for ­tre­s ses and ca­s­tles da­ting from the la­te Mid­dle Ages, and cul­tu­ral mo­nu­men­ts and ar­chi­tec­tu­re from the Ba­ro­que era.

Three Cro­a­ti­an ci­ti­e s and two mo­nu­men­tal com­-ple­xes ha­ve the sta­tus of mo­nu­men­ts of wor­ld cul­tu­ral he­ri­ta­ge ac­cor­ded by UNE­SCO. The­se are the La­te An­ti­que Pa­la­ce of Di­o­cle­ti­ an, re­mo­de­led thro­ugh the cen­tu­ri­es in­to the me­di­e­val city of Split, the ci­ti­es of Du­brov­nik and Tro­gir, the Ba­si­li­ca of Eup­hra­si­us in Po­reË and the Cat­he­dral of St. Jacob in ©ibe­nik.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvat­ska je po­sljed­njih go­di­na − ocje­nju­ju meu­na­rod­ni tu­ri­stiË­ki znal­ci i sta­ti­sti­Ëa­ri − naj­ve­Êe tu­ri­stiË­ko izne­na­e­nje te hit-odre­di­πte na Sre­ do­zem­lju.

Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2014. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su 13,128.416 turista, od kojih je stranih 10,948.366.

Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima 66,483.948 noÊenja.

Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti…

Hrvat­ska je bli­zu ne sa­mo zbog svoga geograf­skog smještaja, ne­go i zbog mreæe zraË­nih lu­ka i kva­li­tet­nih uslu­ga na­ci­o­nal­nog avi­o­pri­ je­vo­zni­ka Croatia Air­li­ne­sa te dru­gih zraË­nih pri­je­vo­zni­ka. I zbog svoje mreæe au­to­ce­sta i po­lu­a­u­to­c e­sta Hrvat­s ka je bliæa ne­go ikad.

Ako ste pak oda­bra­li od­mor na jed­no­me od mno­gih hrvat­skih oto­ka, pri­je­voz tra­jek­tom ili hi­dro­gli­se­rom s kop­na tra­jat Êe − i kad su po­ sri­je­di oni na­ju­da­lje­ni­ji − kraÊe od 2 sa­ta. Ali nji­ho­va lje­po­ta i ne­po­sre­dan do­dir s iskon­skom pri­ro­dom bit Êe ta­ko ne­za­bo­rav­ni kao da ste od sva­kod­ne­vi­ce mi­lja­ma i mi­lja­ma da­le­ko...

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Cro­a­tia has be­e n a hit de­sti­na­ti­on and the bigge­st to­u­ri­st sur­pri­se in the Me­di­ter­ra­ne­an in the pa­st few ye­ars, say sta­ti­sti­ci­ans and in­ ter­na­ti­o­nal ex­per­ts in to­u­ri­sm.

According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded about 13.13 million tourists in commercial accommodation facilities in 2014, of whom around 10.95 million were foreign tourists.

Tourists realized 66,483,948 overnight stays.

Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards.

There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing

excursions that include natural and cultural treasures...

Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku­n a je na ­z iv nov­Ë a­n e je­d i­n i­c e Re­p u­b li­ke Hrvat­ske.

U op­tje­ca­ju su nov­Ëa­ni­ce ku­na (kn) i ko­va­ni no­vac ku­na i li­pa (lp). Nov­Ëa­ni­ce su izda­ne u slje­de­Êim apo­e­ni­ma − 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 ku­na, a ko­va­ni no­vac − 1, 2 i 5 ku­na, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 li­pa (100 li­pa = 1 ku­na). Mo­gu­Êe je pla­Êa­nje kre­dit­nim kar­ti­ca­ma (Di­ners, Vi­sa, Ame­ri­can Ex­pre­ss, Eu­ro­card i Ma­ster­card) i eu­ro­Ëe­ko­vi­ma. No­vac se moæe po­di­za­ti i na ban­ko­ma­ti­ma.

Currency and payment methods The cur­ren­cy of the Re­pu­blic of Cro­a­tia is cal­led the Ku­n a (kn).

In cir­c u­l a­t i­o n are ban­k no­tes in Ku­n a and co­ins in Ku­n a and Li­p a (lp) ∑ one hun­d red­ th of a Ku­n a. The ban­k no­tes are issu­e d in the fol­l o­w ing de­n o­m i­n a­t i­o ns: 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Ku­n a, whi­le the de­n o­m i­n a­ti­o n struc­tu­re of the co­i ns is 1, 2 and 5 Ku­n a and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Li­p a (100 Li­p a = 1 Ku­n a). Pay­m en­ts can be ma­ de by cre­d it card (Di­n ers, Vi­s a, Ame­ri­c an Ex­p re­s s, Eu­ro­c ard and Ma­ster­c ard), as well as eu­ro-chec­k s. Ca­s h can be wit­h drawn from AT­M s.

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines destinations stalne / regular sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer

motorway, fast roads toll station tunnel, bridge other main roads national parks nature parks international border crossing petrol stations (0-24) airports ferry routes UNESCO World Heritage CROATIA AIRLINES

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Mjesto suradnje Ljudi i uMjetnosti Zagreb’s gaLLeries- a pLaCe of Cooperation betWeen peopLe and art

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Piπe/By Dubravka Prpić Znaor Fotografije/Photos Vanja Šolin

Nataša Ninić Površine Kranjčar Galerija Nataša Ninić Surfaces Kranjčar Gallery CROATIA AIRLINES

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Galerija Kranjčar, vlasnica / owner Elvira Kranjčar Voditelji: Joško Tešija, Kristina Bangoura

Društvo 21. stoljeća komunikaciju i suradnju diglo je na zavidnu razinu, što je utjecalo i na galeriju kao mjesto susreta. Zagreb, glavni grad Hrvatske, nimalo ne posustaje za tim svjetskim trendom, a izvrstan su primjer galerije Lauba, Kranjčar, Siva, Mikro i Greta. Svaka je osobita na svoj način i posjetitelje s užitkom uvlači u svoje atraktivne programe.

Otvaranje izložbe Nataše Ninić, Površine, Galerija Kranjčar Opening of Nataša Ninić’s exhibition, Surfaces, Kranjčar Gallery

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alerija je nekad bila mjesto na koje su ljudi, kao izolirani gledatelji, dolazili upijati slikarstvo i kiparstvo, a danas je postala najnaprednija verzija same sebe. Društvo 21. stoljeća komunikaciju i suradnju diglo je na zavidnu razinu, što je utjecalo i na galeriju i stoga je ona danas mjesto suradnje, upoznavanja i simbioza najrazličitijih umjetnosti te susreta brojnih generacija. Razne limite, ograde i očekivana pravila današnje je društvo obrisalo s lakoćom pa sada govorimo o specifičnim prostorima u koje zalazimo radi sudjelovanja u umjetnosti, a ne samo gledanja i pukog konzumiranja. Zagreb, glavni grad Hrvatske, nimalo ne posustaje za tim svjetskim trendom, a izvrstan su primjer galerije Lauba, Kranjčar, Siva, Mikro i Greta. Svaka je osobita na svoj način i posjetitelje s užitkom uvlači u svoje atraktivne programe, širi obzore i kreira vlastite formule uspjeha na ovoj niche sceni. Njihovi su voditelji iskusni kulturnjaci čiji je rad cijenjen, a razradom programa oni zagrebačkoj kulturnoj karti daju osobit pečat i vode je korak naprijed.

Prostori su spomenutih galerija također specifični - revitalizirali su neke stare komplekse i vratili umjetnost na velika vrata. Lauba je smještena u nekadašnjoj jahaonici u sklopu vojnog kompleksa austrougarske vojske, Siva i Mikro oživjele su mastodontsko zdanje propale tvornice Medika, žrtve privatizacije nakon pada Jugoslavije, Greta je (lokacija je bivši popularan modni butik) Ilici i Britancu dala dozu šarma i postala još jedan eklektičan epicentar simbioze umjetnosti, a Kranjčar se uklopila u staru četvrt, predivan Kaptol. Svim tim adresama zajedničko je inzistiranje na suradnji na više razina jer upravo je taj aspekt neodvojiv od njihovih programa, a sve to prepoznali su Zagrepčani i njihovi gosti koji se redovito vraćaju na njihova vrata, upijajući sada umjetnost na drugi način, tako da sudjeluju u njezinom kreiranju i usmjeravanju.

Opravdavaju, među ostalim, ovu premisu riječi voditelja Laube, Marija Gučeka Andromaka: - Osnovana kao aktualno i živo mjesto, Lauba čvrsto surađuje i prati rad tridesetak hrvatskih umjetnika te nekolicine međunarodnih umjetnika. Jedinstvenost Laubinog pristupa u redovitom je posjećivanju atelijera te sudjelovanju u cijelom procesu produkcije radova. U tim trenucima pruža se kritička potpora, ali također se tehnički i financijski pomaže u stvaranju radova i stvara se hrvatska umjetnost danas.

Tako se Lauba profilirala u jedino mjesto u gradu koje ne prima samo natječajne radove, nego i sama otkriva najbolje od suvremene umjetnosti danas.

- Za izvedbe se angažiraju umjetnici koji i scenografijom pridonose izvedbama. U tom trenutku izvedba nije samo tekst i glumci, nego potpuno novo vizualno iskustvo. Dosad najzanimljiviji projekt izveden u Laubi bila je suradnja sa slovenskim redateljem Tomažem Pandurom kojega je Lauba, zajedno s cijelom njegovom kazališnom družinom, ugostila te im omogućila pokuse za predstavu Michelangelo, premijerno izvedenu u HNK u Zagrebu.

Lauba ne zatvara vrata svojim posjetiteljima, stoga je publika i taj put imala jedinstvenu priliku vidjeti kakva je pozadina stvaranja neke kazališne predstave prije nego se upale sva svjetla pozornice. Scenografija koju potpisuje Sven Jonke bila je postavljena kao instalacija unutar izložbenog prostora, kao sastavni dio izložbe tada postavljene u Laubi.

Umjetnost se živi i u Greti, čiji voditelj David Lušičić ističe da njihov prostor postavlja nove granice u uobičajenom galerijskom djelovanju.

- Osim izložbi koje se ovdje otvaraju svakog ponedjeljka, u Greti se učestalo organiziraju koncerti, umjetnički performansi, filmske projekcije te niz različitih predstavljanja i prezentacija šireg spektra kreativnih industrija.

Greta ne slijedi uobičajene norme kuratorskog galerijskog djelovanja, nego obuhvaća najširi spektar suvremene umjetnosti u ambijentu

Detalji s izložbe Paralaksa, Matija Čop i Vanja Šolin, Galerija Kranjčar A detail from the exhibition Parallax, Matija Čop and Vanja Šolina, Kranjčar Gallery

The society of the 21st century raised communication and cooperation to extraordinary levels, which has had an influence on the gallery as such. Zagreb, the capital city of Croatia, is certainly not lagging behind the global trend. The excellent proof of this is seen in the galleries such as Lauba, Kranjčar, Siva, Mikro and Greta. Each is special in its own way and attracts visitors with its interesting programs.

Nataša Ninić, Površine, Galerija Kranjčar Nataša Ninić, Surfaces, Kranjčar Gallery CROATIA AIRLINES

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Undergraduate Programs | 240 ECTS Economics and Management Business Law and Economics Business Mathematics and Economics Graduate Programs | 60 ECTS Graduate MBA Program Executive MBA Executive MBA Human Resource Management

Student exchange at more than 120 universities around the world.

Career Center assists with internship and job placement.

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www.zsem.hr.

Galerija Greta, vlasnik / owner Grad Zagreb Voditelji: David Lušičić, Smiljan Tolj

Galerije su danas mjesta suradnje, upoznavanja i simbioza najrazličitijih umjetnosti te susreta brojnih generacija. Razne limite, ograde i očekivana pravila današnje je društvo obrisalo s lakoćom pa sada govorimo o specifičnim prostorima u koje zalazimo radi sudjelovanja u umjetnosti, a ne samo radi gledanja i pukog konzumiranja.

Today, a gallery is a place of cooperation, meetings and symbioses of various arts, as well as meetings of numerous generations. All kinds of limits, obstacles and expected rules have been successfully eliminated by contemporary society, so we are now talking about specific spaces to which we go in order to participate in art, not merely look at it and consume it.

koji svojim velikim izlozima privlači pažnju slučajnih i namjernih prolaznika. Galerija Greta danas ima kultni status na gradskoj kulturno-umjetničkoj sceni, kao mjesto gdje su otvaranja izložbi intenzivna, dinamična, te poznata kao mjesto izlaska i dobrog provoda do kasnih noćnih sati.

Velike planove za urbanu publiku ima i Mikrogalerija smještena u dvorištu Medike.

Jedan od voditelja, Slave Lukarov, istaknuo je: - Kontinuirani godišnji produkcijski i kulturno-umjetnički program sistematiziran je prema područjima djelovanja i podijeljen na izložbenu djelatnost pod krovnim nazivom Mikrogalerija, filmsku djelatnost - Mikrokino te glazbenu djelatnost - Mikroklub. Autori, programi, umjetnički koncepti te kustoske koncepcije, koje se u svojim radovima dotiču propitivanja medija i multimedijalno i polidisciplinarno pristupaju temama, radove prezentiraju pred do sada već potvrđenom interdisciplinarnom publikom.

- Važnost publike još jednom dokazuje i potkrjepljuje tvrdnju da je galerija mjesto u kojoj je dijalog svih aktera, i onoga koji izlaže i onoga koji gleda - nuždan. U organizaciji programa Mikrogalerije sudjeluju članovi udruge Otompotom, zagrebački arhitekti Slave Lukarov, Nenad Laktašić i Ivan Klepac.

Moderna umjetnost ne može bez ulice, a upravo je urbani art niša još jedne galerije u dvorištu Medike. O Sivoj galeriji jedna od voditeljica, Sanjica Sole, otkriva: - Prostor galerije zamišljen je kao prezentacijski, edukacijski i produkcijski te je čvrsto povezan sa svim stilovima ulične umjetnosti, dizajna, stripa, ilustracije i drugih područja vizualnih umjetnosti uz osnovni kriterij nekonvencionalnosti i nepripadanju mainstreamu. Specifičnost je galerije što su je inicirali umjetnici-grafiteri i takva je jedinstvena u gradu Zagrebu. Cilj nam je bio stvoriti galeriju namijenjenu svim školovanim artistima, ali i amaterima koji stvaraju suvremenu umjetnost, bave se uličnom umjetnošću, istražuju nove medije, kreiraju

David Lušičić, voditelj galerije Greta

Koncert benda Rokambol, galerija Greta

David Lušičić, curator, Greta Gallery

Rokambol concert, Greta Gallery

Izložba Vjeruješ li?, Krelja & Piplica galerija Greta

Izložba Udar iz svemira, Krelja & Piplica galerija Greta

Exhibition Do you Believe?, Krelja & Piplica, Greta Gallery

Exhibition Attack from Space, Krelja & Piplica, Greta Gallery

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Otvorenje izložbe Lovre Artukovića, Uprizorenja, galerija Lauba Opening of Lovro Artuković’s exhibition Staging, Lauba Gallery

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art eksperimente ili je njihov izričaj povezan s nekim od supkulturnih strujanja. - Sivu uza Sanjicu Sole vodi i Kristijan Smok.

Suradnja je doslovna u galeriji Kranjčar Elvire Kranjčar, koja dolazi iz poznate hrvatske nogometaške obitelji. Potpis njihova programa jest ciklus izložaba Mentalni sklop, koji se temelji na suradnji dvaju umjetnika od kojih je jedan mentor a drugi njegov sljedbenik.

Kako je nastao Mentalni sklop, ta specifična, inovativna forma? - Život nas odvodi na različite strane, upoznajemo nove ljude, gradimo nove odnose… i svaki od njih, koliko god trajao, pohranjen je u meni, u mome mentalnom sklopu. Tijekom odrastanja imala sam sreću i pronašla, osim roditelja, nekoliko osoba, mentora, koji su me inspirirali, podržali i podučili te smo zajednički izgradili i emotivnu povezanost… - kaže Elvira Kranjčar - i tako je nastala sama ideja, rodila se u mom životnom iskustvu. Dakle, imamo dva umjetnika, mentora i sljedbenika, a istodobno se u prostoru Galerije odvija njihov dijalog. Da sve bude bolje, odlučili smo se na dinamičan tempo, svaka dva tjedna nova izložba… Glavni

kreator ovog zahtjevnog ciklusa jest kustos i povjesničar umjetnosti Mladen Lučić, a da i tu imamo par, predložila sam kustosicu Lejlu Mehulić. Rezultat je dinamičnost izlaganja, različitost senzibiliteta i osobnosti… što je uvelike osjetila i publika te se ubrzo pridružila.

- Već i spominjanje publike ističe taj trenutak u našim galerijama - ona je ne samo promatrač, nego i akter, uvelike bitan svima koji se bave programom. Rezultat: velika suradnja koja podiže zagrebačku kulturnu scenu na višu razinu i daje joj dodatnu vrijednost. Skida se na taj način s umjetnosti elitistička aura te ona postaje urbana, dinamična i iznenađujuća, baš kao i današnje društvo. 

A

gallery once used to be a place where people, as isolated observers, came to soak up paintings and sculptures, and nowadays it has become the most advanced version of itself. The society of the 21st century raised communication and cooperation to extraordinary levels, which has had an influence on the gallery as such. At this moment, therefore, it is a place of cooperation,

Damir Žižić

meetings and symbioses of various arts, as well as meetings of numerous generations.

All kinds of limits, obstacles and expected rules have been successfully eliminated by contemporary society, so we are now talking about specific spaces to which we go in order to participate in art, not merely look at it and consume it. Zagreb, the capital city of Croatia, is certainly not lagging behind the global trend. The excellent proof of this is seen in the galleries such as Lauba, Kranjčar, Siva, Mikro and Greta. Each is special in its own way and attracts visitors with its interesting programs, expands horizons and creates its own formulas for success on this niche scene.

Their managers are experienced people of culture, whose work is held in high regard, and their program development is a special stamp on Zagreb’s culture scene, leading it ahead one step at a time.

The spaces of the aforementioned galleries are also specific - they have revitalized some old complexes and brought art back in a major way. Lauba is located in a onetime riding academy, which was part of the military

complex of the Austro-Hungarian army. Siva and Mikro have reinvigorated the massive complex of the defunct Medika factory, which fell victim to privatisation after the dissolution of Yugoslavia. Greta, located in the once popular former fashion boutique, has given Ilica and the British Square a dose of charm, becoming yet another eclectic epicentre of art symbiosis, while Kranjčar has blended into the old neighbourhood of beautiful Kaptol in the Upper Town. What all of these addresses have in common is that they all insist on cooperation on several levels, because that exact aspect is inseparable from their programs.

All of this was recognized by the citizens of Zagreb and their guests, who keep returning to their doors, soaking up art in a different way by participating in its creation and routing.

Among others, this premise is justified by the manager of Lauba, Mario Guček Andromak: Founded as a current and live place, Lauba closely cooperates with and follows the opus of some thirty Croatian artists and several international artists. The uniqueness of Lauba’s approach lies in regular visits to the atelier and CROATIA AIRLINES

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Umjetnička radionica, Lauba Art Workshop, Lauba

Galerija Lauba, vlasnik /owner Tomislav Kličko

Koncert Let 3, galerija Lauba

Koncert Let 3, galerija Lauba

Voditelj galerije Lauba; Mario Guček Andromak

Let 3 concert, Lauba Gallery

Let 3 concert, Lauba Gallery

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Arhiv Lauba

text and actors, but a completely new visual experience. The most interesting project performed at Lauba thus far was the cooperation with Slovenian director Tomaž Pandur and his theatre troupe which rehearsed for the play Michelangelo that premiered at the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb. Lauba does not close its door to visitors, so the audience had the unique opportunity to see the backstage preparations for the theatre play before the lights on stage are turned on. The scenogra-

Arhiv Lauba

participation in the entire production process of the works. In those moments it offers critical support, but also technical and financial help in the creation of works, thus creating contemporary Croatian art. That is how Lauba has profiled itself as the only place in the city that not only accepts contest works but also discovers the best of contemporary art today.

Artists whose scenography contributes to performances are hired for performances. At that moment, the performance is not only a

Paulina Jazvić I recommended vodka Lauba

a wide spectre of creative industries. Greta does not follow the usual norms in terms of the activities of a curator gallery, but rather it encompasses the widest spectre of contemporary art in an ambiance with big windows which attracts the attention of passers-by.

The Greta Gallery nowadays has a cult status on the city’s cultural and artistic scene as a place where exhibition openings are intense and dynamic, and it is known as a place to go out and have a good time until late at night.

Mikrogalerija, located in the Medika courtyard, also has great plans for an urban audience.

One of its managers, Slave Lukarov, points out: A continuing annual production and cultural and artistic programs are systematized according to fields of activity and divided into exhibition activities under the name of Mikrogalerija (Microgallery), film activity - Mikrokino (Microcinema), and music activity - Mikroklub (Microclub). The authors, programs, artistic and curatorial concepts, which question

Umjetnik Jannis Kounellis u Laubi

Umjetnička radionica u Laubi

Multimedijalna izložba u Laubi

Artist Jannis Kounellis in Lauba Gallery

Art Workshop in Lauba

Multimedia exhibition in Lauba

Arhiv Lauba

phy was the work of Sven Jonke and it was set up as an installation within the exhibit area, and as an integral part of an exhibition taking place at Lauba at that time.

Art is also the way of life at Greta, whose manager David Laušić points out that their space pushes new boundaries in gallery activities.

Apart from exhibitions that are opened here each Monday, Greta often hosts concerts, art performances, film screenings and an array of various promotions and presentations from

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Arhiv Siva

the media and have a multimedia and polydisciplinary approach to topics, are the works which have already been presented and affirmed by the interdisciplinary audience. The importance of the audience once again proves and confirms the claim that a gallery is a place where dialogue between all participants - the exhibitors and viewers, is essential. Members of the Otompotom Association, as well as Zagreb architects Slave Lukarov, Nenad Laktašić and Ivan Klepac, participate in the

Galerija Siva, Izložba radova umjetnika iz Srbije

Arhiv Mikro

Siva Gallery, exhibition of artists from Serbia

Galerija Siva, vlasnik / owner Grad Zagreb Galerija Mikro, vlasnik / owner Grad Zagreb Voditelji: Slave Lukarov, Ivan Klepac, Nenad Laktašić

Voditelji galerije Siva: Sanjica Sole, Kristijan Smok

Izložba radova fotografa Nikole Predovića, galerija Siva Ivan Klepac i Slave Lukarov, Galerija Mikro

Arhiv Mikro

DJ Kremps in Mikro Gallery

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Exhibition of works by photographer Nikola Predović, Siva Gallery

Arhiv Siva

DJ Kremps u galeriji Mikro

organization of the Mikrogalerija’s programs.

Modern art is inseparable from the street, and urban art is the niche of yet another gallery located in the Medika courtyard. One of the managers of the Siva Gallery, Sanjica Sole, says: The gallery was conceived as a space for presentations, education and production, and it is tied to all styles of street art, design, comic art, illustration and other fields of visual arts with the basic criteria of an unconventional approach and distancing from the mainstream. The gallery is specific because it was founded by graffiti artists, which makes it unique in Zagreb. The goal was to create a gallery for all trained artist and amateurs alike, who create contemporary art and street art, explore new media, create art experiments, or their expression is connected to a sub-cultural stream of some sort. Along with Sanjica Sole, Siva is managed by Kristijan Smok.

Cooperation is quite literal at the Kranjčar Gallery, which is owned by Elvira Kranjčar of the famous Croatian football family. The signature of their program is a cycle of exhibitions titled Mentalni Sklop (Mindset), based on cooperation between two artists, one of whom is a mentor and the other a disciple.

How was mindset - a specific and innovative form, created? Life takes us to different places; we meet new people and build new relationships… And each of them, no matter how long it lasts, is stored in me, in my mindset. As I was growing up I was lucky enough to have several mentors, apart from my parents, who inspired, supported and taught me, and together we built an emotional connection…

Thus the idea was born from my life experience. We have two artists, a mentor and a disciple, and at the same time the gallery is a space for their dialogue. To make things even better, we have chosen a dynamic tempo of having a new exhibition every two weeks. The main creator of this demanding cycle is the curator and art historian Mladen Lučić, while I also recommended curator Lejla Mehulić, so we have two of them as well. The result is a great dynamic, a diversity of sensibilities and personalities, which was felt by the audiences and they quickly joined in, says Elvira Kranjčar. Just mentioning the audience points out that moment in our galleries - they are not only observers, but also participants of the utmost importance to everyone involved in the program. The result is an exquisite cooperation, which brings the Zagreb culture scene to a higher level and adds greater value to it.

In this way it removes the elitist aura from the art, making it urban, dynamic and surprising - just like contemporary society.  CROATIA AIRLINES

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Prirodne ljepote Natural beauties

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Ljepota slobodnog spusta

The Beauty of a Free Ride Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos: Saša Pjanić

I want to ride my bicycle I want to ride my bike I want to ride my bicycle I want to ride it where I like Freddie Mercury (Bicycle Race)

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D

Povijesni graničarski čardak, Veliko Trojstvo Historic boarder watchtower (čardak), Veliko Trojstvo

Bilogora je najniæa hrvatska planina, zapravo skupina breæuljaka, humaka i gorskih glava, koji se, prateÊi rijeku Dravu, prostiru sjevernom Hrvatskom, od Kalnika na sjeverozapadu do Papuka i Slavonije na jugoistoku. Joπ vaænije, ona je neotkriveni dragulj kontinentalnog turizma o kojemu se nedovoljno zna i premalo govori.

Bilogora is Croatia’s lowestlying range, actually a cluster of hills, mounds and mountain heads, which run parallel to the Drava River and stretch through northern Croatia from Kalnik in the northwest to Papuk and Slavonija in the southeast. More importantly, it is a hidden jewel of continental tourism of which not enough is known and even less talked about.

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a je Petar PreradoviÊ kojim sluËajem kao πkolarac imao brdski bicikl s punom suspenzijom, put od rodne kuÊe u Grabrovnici do πkole koju je pohaao u Grubiπnom Polju mogao je s uæitkom prevaljivati svakodnevno, kroz mirisne πume i preorane Ëistine, bruseÊi odmalena spartanski duh i gajeÊi lirsku duπu, kako to buduÊemu carskom generalu i velikom pjesniku, uostalom, i priliËi. Meni je bio dovoljan i obiËan, stari hibrid da za nepuna dva sata prevalim taj isti put od malog sela ispod sjevernih kosa koje strπe iz ravne Podravine na drugu stranu Bilogore.

Sve πto sam tada ponio sa sobom bile su fotografska kamera i boËica domaÊeg soka od bazge, zaslaenog bagremovim medom.

Pomisao na pedaliranje na normu katkada moæe zastraπiti. Odmalena sam tom izazovu doskakivao razgibavanjem maπte kroz zvukove prirode, ne misleÊi na duljinu ili uzbrdicu.

Katkada su mi se pojavljivala i privienja, kao slika malog Petra kojega uplakana majka, u hladnu zimsku zoru, posjeda na volovsku zapregu. Pred njime je dug put. DjeËak se kutri meu deke i pregaËe, steæuÊi Ëvrsto zaveæljaj.

U zaveæljaju topao kukuruzni kruh, ljuta prgica i komad suhe slanine. StriËevi Êe ga doËekati tek podveËer. Zanimljivo je da je PreradoviÊ roen baπ u godini kada Êe barun Karl von Dreis u Parizu predstaviti svoj neobiËan izum ∑ poznatu drezinu, prvi bicikl u povijesti. Istina, da je siromaπni malac, koji Êe poslije zapisati najljepπe stihove hrvatske rodoljubne lirike, tada i posjedovao tu pomodnu napravu, ne bi mu mnogo koristila. No svako vrijeme nosi svoje pa i svijest o tome πto je blizu, a πto daleko. Cjelodnevni put malog πkolarca u 40 kilometara daleko Grubiπno Polje, u doba kada Europa joπ æivo pamti Napoleona, pustolovina je danas donekle usporediva s putovanjem biciklom na Bilogoru iz Zagreba, Ljubljane ili Graza. Dodamo li na to joπ koji dan viπe, govorimo o vremenu koje je potrebno da se ovamo stigne iz BeËa ili Budimpeπte. Bilogora je oduvijek tu, kuda prolaze putovi sa sjevera prema jugu. Ona je jednostavno naklonjena biciklistu. Mreæa asfaltnih prometnica, πumskih putova, vinogradskih prilaza i singletrack staza gotovo da je napravljena po savrπenoj mjeri. ©ume, proplanci, krËevine i breæuljci jamËe uzbudljivu voænju, a vidikovci izvrsnu vizualnu orijentaciju. Preko nje i oko nje prolaze pruge i ceste pa za one bez previπe strasti za bisage i duge staze, nudi bezbroj moguÊnosti, jednodnevnih, vikendaπkih, tjednih. A tek Bilogorci?!

Marc Augé sve bi ovo saæeo veoma kratko i odrjeπito: Na bicikle, da promijenite æivot!

Bilogora je najniæa hrvatska planina, zapravo skupina breæuljaka, humaka i gorskih glava koji se, prateÊi rijeku Dravu, prostiru sjevernom

Hrvatskom, od Kalnika na sjeverozapadu do Papuka i Slavonije na jugoistoku. Joπ vaænije, ona je neotkriveni dragulj kontinentalnog turizma o kojemu se nedovoljno zna i premalo govori. Geologija je svrstava u kvartarno-tercijarne taloge, nalegnute na stariju jezgru. U prijevodu, padinski reljef kakav je manje-viπe i danas i izum bicikla geokronoloπki su udaljeni tek nekoliko minuta. No s Bilogorom se nisam zbliæio kroz πkolske knjige i struËnu literaturu.

S njom me zbliæio bicikl. Pedaliranje po Bilogori moja je strast joπ iz djetinjstvu kada sam, potroπivπi jednom dæeparac za autobusnu kartu od Bjelovara do Virovitice, otkrio i druge moguÊnosti putovanja. Otada pa sve do danas navika je ostala ista. Mijenjam povremeno samo bicikle.

Bilogora je po svojim rubovima omeena prometnicama koje povezuju gradove u tri hrvatske æupanije: Bjelovar, Kriæevce, Koprivnicu, –urevac, PitomaËu, Viroviticu i Grubiπno Polje. Na bilogorski prometni paralelogram nadovezuju se joπ tri obliænja meunarodna cestovna prijelaza s Republikom Maarskom.

Za ljetnih mjeseci sasvim je uobiËajeno naiÊi na kolone biciklista opremljenih za duge staze, koji iz Poljske, »eπke, Austrije ili SlovaËke putuju prema jugu. Bilogora je izvrsno mjesto za predah, a kada je bolje upoznaju, i preËac koji dio njihova puta vodi podalje od guæve uskipjelog asfalta. Osim toga, cijelim smjerom pruæanja tek je desetak kilometara udaljena od dijela EuroVelo rute 13, koji prolazi Hrvatskom.

Zovu je joπ i Ruta Æeljezne zavjese, a dio je velike europske biciklistiËke mreæe koja povezuje sve zemlje Europe. Na svom putu od sjevera Norveπke do Crnog mora, duljinom od stotinjak kilometara, prati hrvatski tok rijeke Drave. Viπe je oznaËenih biciklistiËkih staza kojima se s tog koridora moæe lako skrenuti u srce Bilogore.

Dodamo li svemu tome joπ i æeljezniËku prugu koja Ëak dvjema trasama preko nje povezuje istoËnu Hrvatsku i Zagreb te meunarodni pravac Budimpeπta-Zagreb-Venecija, suviπan je zakljuËak da se ovamo odsvukud stiæe lako.

Kažu da putopisci ne piπu o ljudima i zemljama kojima prolaze, nego o sebi. A drugi ih rado Ëitaju jer u njima pronalaze, potisnute i neostvarene, vlastite æelje i snove. Ja bih radije konstatirao da je u svakom Ëitaocu sklupËan i putopisac, ukoËen i zguren kao biciklist na naizbrdici. Pedaliranje je kao i priËa, individualna zabava skrojena za svaËiji ukus. Jurnjava po ravnom asfaltu, spust niz planinsko bilo, πumski slalom, breæuljkasti roller coaster ili jednostavno guranje bicikla uzbrdo.

Ako smo Istru skloni usporeivati s Toscanom, ista doza maπtovitosti, od razbacanih kontinentalnih bila, mogla bi iscrtati obrise nekoga hrvatskog ApalaËa. Razlika je πto nakon deset

kilometara i iz najguπÊe πume izaete na kolnik, Bilogorci ne destiliraju kriomice drop od krumpira, nego rade vrhunsko vino, ne nose hillibilly tregerice, nego hipsterske brade i pËelarske πeπire. Umjesto Bluegrass countryja, slušaju punk i blues. Vole konje i bicikle, a djevojke su dotjerane i kada se voze na traktoru. Bilogorom se uvijek ori pjesma i karta belot, vrca najbolji bagremov med, a kad je lipa u cvatnji, nigdje πuma ne miriπe tako zamamno i snaæno kao tu. Sir je ovdje vrhunski, slan, sladak ili ljut.

Bilogora je πarolika, s mnogo lica. Na sredini je uska, prema jugoistoku i sjeverozapadu se πiri.

Zbog kiparske radionice, veÊ viπe od desetljeÊa Bilogoru poπumljuju skulpturom. Svijetle pruge projekt je suradnje Hrvatskih πuma, OpÊine Veliko Trojstvo i Akademije likovnih umjetnosti.

Prema ideji profesora Slavomira DrinkoviÊa, svake godine grupa studenata polazi terensku nastavu u πumi, izraujuÊi skulpture iz drveta.

Sve πto je od 2002. veÊ uraeno, moæe se i vidjeti, na otvorenoj bilogorskoj galeriji.

Bilogora je nastanjena od davnine. Najprije su po njoj, govore priËe, æivjeli divovi Vedi. A onda su doπli ljudi. No povijest najradije pamti ratove.

Kroz veÊi dio 16. i 17. stoljeÊa po bilogorskim brdima sudarala su se dva carstva. ©umovita gora, meki trbuh habsburπko-osmanske granice, krila je lutajuÊe haramije i njemaËke plaÊenike, vlaπke prebjege i turske akindæije.

Obrambeni sustav prema Osmanlijama s vremenom je utvren nizom manjih tabora i pograniËnih utvrda. Te straæarnice-Ëardaci u povijesnim replikama i danas predstavljaju zaπtitni znak Bilogore. Na uzviπenjima pokraj Velikog Trojstva i ©androvca moæe se na njih popeti i za vedrih dana jednim pogledom dohvatiti sve, od Hrvatskog zagorja i Slovenije do Bosne, Maarske i Slavonije. Poslije turskih ratova opustjela je gora naseljavana iz krajeva daljih nego πto ga pogled s nje moæe obuhvatiti.

Zbog toga se danas po njoj mogu Ëuti razliËiti hrvatski dijalekti, ali i drugi jezici, vidjeti obiËaji poput Ëeπkih Doæinky, krsnih slava i romskih jurjevskih sveËanosti. Tko su zapravo Bilogorci? Podravci koji pjevaju ode Dravi, a najsretniji su u hladu svojih kleti. Ili Slavonci, koji teæaËku jaru rado mijenjaju za lov. Umjesto odgonetke, preporuËujem rutu od Ëeπkog sela Treglave do Romske kuÊe u Velikom Trojstvu, tradicionalne drvene kuÊe autohtonih hrvatskih Roma-Lovara, prve i zasad jedine takve vrste u Hrvatskoj.

Razonodi na dva kotaËa pridruæite i onaj treÊi, crvenu Ëakru s romske zastave te u druæenju s obitelji –ureviÊ, razgledajte stalni postav i kuπajte romsku hranu. Usput, u selu posjetite i Etno park s bogatom zbirkom obitelji Matunci.

A ako izdržite na biciklu još jedan sat, evo vas i na Đurđevačkoj vinskoj cesti. Posjet vinarijama Matočec, Benkek, Šipek ili Koren odličan je izbor kako da zaključite dan. U maratonskom smislu propedalirali ste viπe od pola Bilogore i usput moæda upoznali nekog Flamanca koji zbog ladanjske idile, jeftinih nekretnina i pajdaπije sliËne onoj s Bruegelovih slike, rado boravi ovdje.

Bilogora je puna Velikih sela: Velika Barna, Velika Peratovica, Velika »reπnjevica, Velika Pisanica, koja, osim πto je najdulje selo u CROATIA AIRLINES

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Singletrack staza Put šarana, Virovitički ribnjaci Single track path Put Šarana, Virovitički Ribnjaci

Hrvatskoj, rodno je mjesto umjetnika svjetskoga glasa, velikog Ede MurtiÊa. I znameniti hrvatski djeËiji klasik Mato Lovrak u svojim romanima pripovijeda o jednome Velikom Selu u Hrvatskoj, negdje izmeu Drave i Save. To Veliko Selo jest Veliki Grevac u kojemu se,

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velikom piscu u Ëast, svake godine odræavaju Lovrakovi dani kulture, a Ëijem je impresivnom knjiæevnom djelu posveÊen i obliænji tematski park. I o Velikom Trojstvu valja reÊi koju. Neki ga dræe glavnim gradom Bilogore, neki pak drugim najpoznatijim selom na svijetu. Jer prvo je, kaæu, Kumrovec, a s obzirom na to da je Josip Broz i u Trojstvu proæivio Ëetiri i pol godine kao strojarski tehniËar u mlinu Samuela Pollaka, nije moæda naodmet razmisliti i o vicekandidaturi. Tim viπe πto veÊ postoji vlak do Zagreba, koji je k tome joπ i plave boje. U priču bi na kraju valjalo pozvati i Tošu Dapca.

Nije rođen u Velikom Selu, nego u Novoj Rači, ali je zato velikan hrvatske fotografije. A bez fotografije nema ni priče o Bilogori. »itav je bilogorski kraj, u doba osmanlijskih osvajanja, na viπe od pola stoljeÊa bio prepuπten prirodi. Gusta, mraËna πuma bila je zbjeg. Ili zasjeda. No kada je granica jednom utvrena, poËelo se s krËenjem duæ nje.

Proplanak s tri panja, bijeli Ëardak i graniËarski straæar - bjelovarski povijesni grb dobar je podsjetnik na to. Bilogorom se lako provozati u smjeru meridijana. No pravi ju je izazov prijeÊi po sredini, uzduæ svih tih bila, naboranih jedno za drugim. Od izvora Ilove do Stankova Vrha.

Od Pepelana ili Slavonske Pivnice do MuËne

Reke i Lepavine. Stojim usred sjenovite πume, okruæen svjeæinom hladovine. Ubrzano hvatam zrak i traæim neki glas u tiπini. ©umama se moæe kretati satima i da se ne izae iz njih. Kako sve viπe odmiËem prema sjeverozapadu, i krajolik postaje ukroÊeniji. Najprije tek manje Ëistine

Restoran Zlatni Klas, Otrovanec Zlatni Klas restaurant, Otrovanec

usred bilogorske πume; BedeniËka, RibnjaËka, Sibenik. A onda livade, proplanci, prokrËene padine i zaseoci. Spuπtam se i penjem niz brijeg i uz brijeg. Iz ViπnjevaËkih vinograda, preko Kapele pogled sada veÊ neometano lebdi do Medvednice. Na kraju puta hvataju me umor i mrak. A moæe se to sve i u viπe dana, biciklom, u sedlu, pjeπice, pa i na motorni pogon ako veÊ ne ide drugaËije. Projurite li letimice nekima od vodiËa, uvjerit Êete se da se po Bilogori svuda moæe prenoÊiti ili dulje boraviti. Od hotela Mozart, u πumi kraj ©piπiÊ-Bukovice, do ladanjskog imanja SunËano Selo u Jagnjedovcu nedaleko od Koprivnice. Od lovačkog kuće u Babincu kraj Velike Pisanice do Obiteljskog gospodarstva Rebić u Velikom Trojstvu ili ergele Bonata - Arabians kraj Virovitice.

Dobra logistika slijedi i biciklistiËki put. Klubova i klupskog druæenja ne nedostaje. Od natjecanja, biciklijada i voænji po prirodi do servisa i prve pomoÊi. Od tri æupanijska srediπta, Koprivnica je najbiciklistiËkija. Ujedno je i grad s najviπe kilometara biciklistiËkih staza po stanovniku u Hrvatskoj, a ima i muzej bicikla s replikama povijesnih modela. Na obroncima, u blizini grada, odræava se poznati proljetni XC maraton.

Klub Gema iz Bjelovara, osim natjecanja, uspjeπno promiËe obiteljski biciklizam i ciklo druæenja. U okolici Virovitice nalazi se novootvoreni centar cikloturizma, sa sobama za smjeπtaj i informativno-edukacijskim centrom, a na izletištu Virovitički ribnjaci brdska biciklistička singletrack staza Put šarana. Na mjestu gdje se sve tri bilogorske æupanije spajaju, gusta je listopadna πuma kojom prolazi tek ugaæeni put. Nakon RibnjaËke i osvjeæenja na Malenom brijegu, Ëesto tako kratim voænju prema Podravini. Mea ispod mahovine, bobica i trave. Kada bih barem sve bicikliste s Bilogore mogao okupiti na ovome mjestu, da zajedno poviËemo hura! i napravimo selfie.

Povremeno u voænji naiem i na neku πumsku æivotinju.

Jelena, srnu, divlju svinju, fazana, lisicu. Ipak, glavni junak moje priËe jest sveti Martin. Sveti Hubert je tek sporedni lik.

Jednom sam u voænji pitao za smjer Lepavina. VeÊ sam se bio priliËno izmorio i namjeravao uhvatiti vlak kada mi je prolaznik na traktoru otkrio svu draæ usmene proze o nastanku mjesnih imena. Jednom je car, kaæe, putovao po monarhiji i doputovao u selo poznato po dobrim vinima. Tu se i zadræao te, nazdravljajuÊi s mjeπtanima, sveudilj hvalio njihove podrume. Poslije toga selo je dobilo novo ime ∑ Lepavina. No epilog priËe desetak je kilometara dalje. Naime, car, kada je jednom ipak morao poÊi, nije se baπ osjeÊao najbolje pa je sadræaj svog æeluca brzo morao istovariti na mjestu koje Êe se otada zvati Carevdar. Pripovjedač doduπe ne navodi carevo ime, ali može se pretpostaviti da je vjerojatno rijeË o Josipu II., sinu carice Marije Terezije, koji je, zbog reputacije prosvijeÊenog vladara koji obilazi narod i spava po krËmama, bio omiljen u puËkim predajama. PriËa mi se svidjela i premda baπ nigdje nisam naiπao ni na jedan sluæbeni podatak koji bi je mogao potkrijepiti, nemam niπta protiv i da fikcija bude podloga stvarnosti. Želite li se osjeÊati kao car, sjednite na bicikl i pedalirajte po Bilogori.

Loza se uzgaja svuda. Dvije su podregije, kao i dva dijalekta, podijelile Bilogoru u razliËite vinogradarske zone sa zaπtiÊenom oznakom izvornosti: Prigorje-Bilogora i Slavonija.

Vinske ceste kroz KoprivniËko-urevaËka, Bilogorska i VirovitiËka vinogorja dobra su dopuna biciklistiËkim stazama.

A na Bilogori ih ne nedostaje. Iz svake πume na kraju izaÊi CROATIA AIRLINES

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Ergela Bonata-Arabians, Sveti Đurađ, Virovitica Bonata-Arabians Stable, Sveti Đurađ, Virovitica

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OPG Mišir, Veliko Trojstvo Mišir Family Farm, Veliko Trojstvo

Vinarija Čačija, Maglenča Čačija Winery, Maglenča CROATIA AIRLINES

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Êete pred trsje, bez obzira na to πto se iza njega vidi: Maarska, Moslavina, Baranja ili Zagorje.

Dakle, birajte! Pinot bijeli, Pinot crni, Rajnski rizling, Frankovka, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon i, dakako, kraljica stola Graπevina.

Bilogora je novo podruËje na enogastronomskoj karti Hrvatske s potencijalom da postane pravi hit. Vina se uglavnom nude u vinarijama i kuπaonicama obiteljskog tipa i lokalnim ugostiteljskim objektima. Podrum Vineda u Vukosavljevici sa svojom vrhunskom graševinom pravo je iznenađenje Virovitičkog vinogorja. Još jedno vrhunsko vino, polusuha, predikatna graševina Vinarije Čačija iz Maglenče, u kombinaciji s kozjim sirom začinjenim kardamomom i anisom sa OPG-a Mišir i medom od bagrema, dokaz su da Bilogorci vrlo kreativno promišljaju svoju enogastro ponudu. Na Bjelovarskoj Bilogori svakako treba obići Izletište i vinotočje Vinia na Obiteljskom gospodarstvu Šapić te Vinariju i restoran Coner. U kletima, podrumima i na poljoprivrednim gospodarstvima moæe se kuπati sve, od vinogradarskoga gulaπa i roπtilja do hruskavog prepeËenca sa svjeæim sirom, domaÊom slaninom i salatom od medvjeeg 36

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luka. Recepture od koprive uæivaju poËasni status, a restorani poput Zlatnog klasa u Otrovancu i Podravske kleti kod Koprivnice, obogatili su svoju kartu tradicionalnim jelima domaÊe seoske kuhinje; æganci, preægane juhe, jeËmene i prosene kaπe, jela od ËiËka i bundeve uz kruh od æitarica samljevenih na starinski naËin. Borovnice, jagode i πumske maline, kad im je sezona, zasladit Êe svaËiji tek.

S vidikovaca iznad Koprivnice ususret jesenjem sjevercu, pogled odluta daleko. Bliæi se vrijeme kada moπt postaje vino. Je li sveti Martin, sin rimskog tribuna, na putu iz rodnog Sambotela u Paviju, daleko na obzorju opazio neke breæuljke po kojima Êe se jednog dana gromoglasno zazivati njegovo ime? Razdoblje od prvih berbi do Martinja najljepπe je doba na Bilogori. ZaËarana svitanja u izmaglici najavljuju lijep i topao dan.

Rujnost babljeg ljeta, s moπtom koji vrije, glasnik je ljepote koja uranja u san. Onda joπ malo kestenja i Martinje je veÊ tu. A to je blagdan koji se ovdje ne propuπta. Mlado vino na Bilogori obvezno se krsti, bilo po strogim regulama organiziranih vinskih bratovπtina, bilo neformalno, u dobrom druπtvu slobodnih vitezova

dionizijskih. NajveÊi dogaaj Velika je martinjska πpelancija u Koprivnici, gdje tridesetak vinskih biskupa iz cijele Hrvatske izmeu sebe bira velikog meπtra martinjskog ceremonijala.

Nakon Martinja, Bilogora se tek naizgled primiri. Vino u baËvama mirno odleæava, a ljudi zavrπavaju posljednje pripreme za zimu. Biciklisti vade topla odijela i montiraju gume za snijeg. 

I

f as a school boy, Petar Preradović had had an opportunity to acquire a full suspension mountain bike, his journey from his native house in Grabrovica to the school he attended in Grubišno Polje would have been a pleasant daily ride through fragrant forests and ploughed fields. From an early age, he could have honed his Spartan spirit and nourished his lyrical soul - as befitting a future emperor’s general and great poet. As for me, I was satisfied with a common, old hybrid to travel the same route with, from a small village at the foot of the northern slopes protruding from Podravina to the other side of Bilogora Mountain. All I took with me were a photo camera and a bottle of home made elderberry squash sweetened with acacia honey. The mere thought of cycling at a certain speed can sometimes be terrifying.

From an early age on, I have faced up to the challenge by letting my imagination run away with the sounds of nature, trying not to think about the distance or the slope I had to conquer. Sometimes, I have even had hallucinations, like when I saw the image of young Petar Preradović and his crying mother putting him on an ox-driven cart on a cold winter morning, a long journey ahead of him. The boy snuggles up to the blankets and throws, holding firmly onto his bundle. Wrapped in the bundle is a loaf of warm corn bread, a spicy cheese cone, and a piece of dry bacon. His uncles are to meet him in the evening.

OPG Rebić, Veliko Trojstvo Rebić Family Farm, Veliko Trojstvo CROATIA AIRLINES

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Interestingly enough, Preradović was born the same year that Baron Karl von Dreiss presented his quirky invention in Paris - the famous draisine, the first bicycle in the history of mankind. Truth be told, even if the poor boy who would go on to write some of the most beautiful verses of Croatian patriotic poetry, had had that fashionable thing, it would not have been of much use to him.

Different times call for different notions of what is far and near. A young boy travelling the whole day, a distance of 40 kilometres to Grubišno Polje, at a time when Europe still had a vivid memory of Napoleon, was an adventure comparable to what would, nowadays, be a bicycle trip to Bilogora from Zagreb, Ljubljana or Graz. Add another day or two to that, we would be talking about the time needed to get there from Vienna or Budapest. Bilogora has always been on the trajectory of routes from north to south. It is simply ideal for cycling. A network of asphalt roads, forest trails, vineyard access roads and single track trails is almost perfect. Forests, glades, land clearings and hills guarantee an exciting ride, and vantage points an excellent 38

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visual orientation. Railroads and roads pass through it and around it, so even those without too much passion for saddle bags and long trails, are provided endless alternatives from one day rides to weekend breaks and weekly tours. And the people from Bilogora?! March Augé summarizes everything very concisely: On your bikes to change your lives!

Bilogora is Croatia’s lowest-lying range, actually a cluster of hills, mounds and mountain heads, which run parallel to the Drava River and stretch through northern Croatia from Kalnik in the northwest to Papuk and Slavonija in the southeast. More importantly, it is a hidden jewel of continental tourism of which not enough is known and even less talked about. Geologists classify it as quaternary cum tertiary sediments stretching atop of an older core. In terms of geological chronology, there is only a short gap between the hilly landscape we find today, and the invention of the bicycle. But I did not get acquainted with Bilogora through textbooks or scientific literature. What brought me close to Bilogora was the bicycle. Cycling across Bilogora has been my passion ever

Mlin Družbe Pere Kvržice, Kulturni centar Mato Lovrak, Veliki Grđevac The mill from children’s novel Družba Pere Kvržice (Pero Kvržica’s Gang), Mato Lovrak Culture Centre, Veliki Grđevac

since childhood when I discovered alternative means of travel after having spent my bus fare from Bjelovar to Virovitica on something else.

Ever since, my habits have not changed. The only thing I do change, every now and then, is my bicycle.

Bilogora is skirted by roads connecting towns in three different Croatian counties: Bjelovar, Križevci, Koprivnica, Đurđevac, Pitomača, Virovitica and Grubišno Polje. The Bilogora traffic parallelogram is also connected to three international border crossings with the Republic of Hungary. In summer months, it is quite normal to encounter southbound columns of cyclists equipped for long hauls from Poland, the Czech Republic, Austria or Slovakia. Bilogora is an excellent place to take a break and once cyclists get to know the area better, it’s a welcome shortcut that takes them away from the crowded sizzling asphalt roads, at least part of the way. Apart from that, only a dozen kilometres separate what is the entire length of Bilogora from the Croatian section of EuroVelo Route 13.

They sometimes refer to this part of the large European network of cycling routes, which

connect all other European countries, the Iron Curtain Route. Running from the north of Norway to the Black Sea, it follows the course of the Drava River for about a hundred kilometres or so. Several marked cycling paths fork off from that corridor and take you straight into the heart of Bilogora. If one adds to that the two railway tracks, which connect Eastern Croatia to Zagreb via Bilogora, as well as the international route connecting Budapest to Venice via Zagreb, it goes without saying that arriving here from practically anywhere else is quite easy and straightforward. As the saying goes, travelogues are not about different kinds of places and people, but about their authors. And others like to read them because they find their own suppressed and unrealized wishes and dreams in them. I would say that there is a travel writer lurking in every reader, stiff and bent like a cyclist rushing downhill.

Cycling is like storytelling, an individualistic form of entertainment tailored to everybody’s taste: speeding along a flat asphalt road, rushing down a mountain ridge, doing a slalom in the forest, a hilly roller coaster ride, or simply pushing one’s bike up a hill.

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If we compare Istria to Tuscany, our imagination will help us see the same outlines of the scattered continental ridges, a Croatian version of the Appalachian range.

The difference lies in the facts that even the densest forest is only a ten-kilometre ride away from an asphalt road the local inhabitants of Bilogora not distill moonshine from potatoes, but they do produce excellent wines; they do not wear the hillbilly overalls, but have sport hipster beard and wear beekeeper hats. Instead of Bluegrass music, they get their kicks from punk and blues. They love horses and bicycles and young women are smartly decked out even for a tractor ride. There is always singing on Bilogora and people playing cards; the best acacia honey is extracted here and nowhere does the forest smell as seductively as when linden trees are in bloom on Bilogora. Cheese is top class, salty, sweet or spicy. Bilogora is colorful and multifaceted. It is narrow in the middle and widens towards the southeast and southwest.

Owing to a sculptor’s workshop, sculptures have been planted all over Bilogora, like trees, for over a decade. The Light Rails project has harnessed forces from many sources: Croatian Forests, the Veliko Trojstvo

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Municipality and the Academy of Fine Arts.

Based on Professor Slavomir Drinković’s idea, every year, a group of students comes out to take lessons in the forest and make sculptures out of wood. Whatever has been produced since 2002 can be seen in the open air gallery on Bilogora.

Bilogora has been populated for a long time. Legend has it that Vedi giants were its first inhabitants. History, however, likes to remember the wars most of all. Throughout most of the 16 th and 17th centuries, two empires clashed all over the Bilogora hilltops.

The wooded mountain, the soft belly of the border between the Habsburg and Ottoman Empires, hid roaming highwaymen and German mercenaries, Vlach refugees and Turkish horsemen. In time, the defense system facing the Ottoman army was reinforced with a series of small military camps and border forts. The replicas of these sentry posts - blockhouses - are still the trademark of Bilogora. At elevations near Veliko Trojstvo and Šandrovci, one can climb such a blockhouse, and on a clear day, see everything there is to see from the Croatian Zagorje and Slovenia to Bosnia, Hungary and Slavonia. After all the wars, the abandoned mountain was settled

with people coming from areas more distant than the eye could see. This is why, even today, the inhabitants of the Bilogora region speak not only different Croatian dialects, but also other languages; they also cherish different customs, like the Czech Dožinky, the family patron’s saint day celebration, and the Roma St George’s festivities. Who are Bilogora locals anyway? The people from Podravina who sing odes to the Drava River and feel happiest in the shade of their wine cellars. Or Slavonians who happily trade their peasant sweat for hunting? Instead of giving you a solution to that riddle, I recommend you take a trip from the Czech village of Treglave to the Roma house in Veliko Trojstvo, a traditional wooden house of indigenous Croatian Lovari Roma - the first and only such subgroup in Croatia. There is a third wheel to supplement the two on your bike: the red chakra from the Romani flag. The fun would not be complete without the Đurđević family, so take a look at the permanent exhibit and taste the Romani food. While there, visit the ethno park in the village, which features a rich collection from the Matunci family. If you manage to stay pedalling for another hour, you will find yourself on the Đurđevac wine

Seoski turizam-izletište Na Malenom brijegu, Ribnjačka

Međunarodna kiparska radionica na otvorenom Svijetle pruge

Rural tourism, Na Malenom Brijegu excursion site, Ribnjačka

An international outdoor sculpture workshop - Svijetle Pruge

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road. A visit to the Matočec, Benkek, Šipek or Korek wineries is an excellent ending to the day. Measured in marathon terms, you will have pedalled through more than half of Bilogora by day’s end and perhaps even met a Flemish guy happily settled there because of the idyllic countryside, cheap real-estate and company of friends similar to those in Bruegel’s paintings. Bilogora is full of big (velika) villages: Velika Barna, Velika Peratovica, Velika Črešnjevica, Velika Pisanica. The latter, besides being the longest village in Croatia, is also the place of birth of the famous Croatian painter, Edo Murtić. In his books, the famous Croatian children’s writer, Mato Lovrak, mentions a big Croatian village, somewhere between the Drava and the Sava. That big village is Veliki Grđevac, which pays homage to the great author, by organizing Lovrak’s Days of Culture every year.

The theme park nearby is also dedicated to the writer’s impressive opus. A word or two should also be said about Veliko Trojstvo.

Some consider it the capital of Bilogora, others the second most famous village in the world. The first, they say, is Kumrovec, but since Josip Broz Tito spent four and a half years in Veliko Trojstvo working as a machine technician at the Samuel Pollak Mill, Veliko Trojstvo could be a strong contender for runner-up in the competition for prominence, if there was one, indeed. More to the point, there is already a train to Zagreb, painted blue to boot. In the end, we must include Tošo Dabac into the story. He was not born in Veliko Selo, but in Nova Rača, but he is one of the greats of Croatian photpgraphy, and there is no story of Bilogora without photographs.

The entire Bilogora area was left to the whims of nature for over half a century during Ottoman conquests. The dense and dark forest was either a refuge or a place of ambush. However, once the border was firmly established, land along it was cleared.

The clearing featured three tree trunks, a white blockhouse and a border patrolman - the historical coat of arms of Bjelovar is a good reminder of that. It is easy to take a ride through Bilogora in the direction of the meridians. The challenge is, however, trying to transverse it through the middle, along all three ridges, following one another in folds.

From the source of the Ilova to Stankov Vrh. From Papelan or Slavonska Pivnica to Mučna Reka and Lepavina. I am standing in a shady forest, surrounded by the freshness of the shade. I am grasping for air and listening for a sound in the silence. You can cruise the forest for hours without ever coming out of it.

As I advance further towards the northwest,

the countr yside becomes more tame.

First, there are smaller clearings amidst the Bilogora forest: Bedenička, Ribnjačka, and Šibenik. And then meadows, glades, slopes and hamlets. I go up and down the hills. An unhindered view stretches across Kapela all the way to Medvednica from the Višnjevački vineyards. Fatigue and darkness catch up with me at the end of my journey. And all that can be stretched over more days, on a bike, in a saddle, on foot, even propelled by an engine, if there is no other option. A perfunctory glance at one of the guidebooks will tell you that there is no shortage of places to spend a couple of nights or more on Bilogora. The range of accommodations starts with the Mozart Hotel in a forest near Špišić Bukovica and includes the countryside house Sunčano Selo in Jagnjedovec near Koprivnica. The offer varies from the hunting lodge in Babinac next to Velika Pisanica to the Rebić Family Farm in Veliko Trojstvo or the Bonata - Arabians horse farm next to Virovitica.

Good logistics accompanies cycling paths.

There is no shortage of clubs and club activities. Competitions, cycling rallies, nature rides, bicycle maintenance shops, first aid everything is in place. Of the three counties, Koprivnica is the most cycling-friendly one. It is also a town with the longest network of bicycle paths per capita in Croatia. It boasts a cycling museum with replicas of historic models.

The famous XC marathon takes place on the nearby slopes. Apart from competitive cycling, the Bjelovar-based Gema Club successfully promotes family cycling and cyclist rallies.

The newly-opened cyclo-tourism centre near Virovitica offers accommodation and features an information and education centre. A dense forest can be found on the spot where all three Bilogora counties meet. A dirt trail passes through it. After navigating Ribnjačka and having recharged my batteries on Maleni Brijeg (Small Hill), I often take that forest trail as a shortcut to Podravina. The border is covered by moss, berries and grass. If I could only gather all the cyclists who roam Bilogora in this one place, we would shout a loud hurrah together and take a group selfie.

From time to time, a forest animal crosses my path: a deer, a doe, a boar, a pheasant, or a fox. However, the main protagonist of my story is St. Martin. St. Hubert plays a mere supporting role. Once, while I was cycling, I asked for directions to Lepavina. I was tired and I had intended to catch a train when a man on a tractor told me a charming story of how the local names came to be. Once an emperor travelled around his monarchy and arrived in a village famous for its good wine; this is where CROATIA AIRLINES

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and last but not least, the queen of every table, Graševina. Bilogora is a promising new-comer on the oenological and culinary map of Croatia. with a potential to become a true hit! Wines are mostly offered in family wineries, tasting rooms and local eateries. With its exquisite Graševina, the Vineda Cellar in Vukosavljevica is a true surprise in the Virovitica winemaking region.

Another premium wine, the semi dry Graševina of the Čačija winery from Maglenča, combined with goat cheese seasoned with cardamom and anise from the Mišir Family Farm, as well as acacia honey, is proof that locals of Bilogora are very creative in putting together their wine and food menu. The Bilogora area around Bjelovar also features the Vinia excursion site and winery on the Šapić Family Farm and the Coner winery and restaurant. In cellars and at family farms, you can taste everything, from wine goulash and grilled meat to crisp toast with cottage cheese, bacon and wild garlic salad. Recipes containing nettle enjoy a special status, and restaurants, like Zlatni Klas in Otrovanac and Podravska Klet near Koprivnica, have enhanced their menus with traditional country cuisine dishes, such as polenta, roux-based soups, barley and millet porridge, thistle and pumpkin dishes and bread made from stone-milled flour.

When in season, blackberries, strawberries and raspberries are offered for dessert. From a gazebo above Koprivnica, the eye wanders far afield, braving the northern wind. Must will soon turn into wine. Did St. Martin, the son of a Roman tribune, travelling from his native Sambotello to Pavia, notice any hilltops far off on the horizon?

Could he even dream that some day, his name would be heard ringing loudly off those hills?

From the moment when the first grapes are picked to St. Martin’s Day is the most beautiful

Romska etnokuća autohtonih hrvatskih Roma Lovara, Maglenča

period on Bilogora. Enchanting misty sunrises

A Romani ethno house of indigenous Croatian Lovari Roma, Maglenča

herald beautiful sunny days. The opulence of the Indian summer and the fermenting of must are the symbols of beauty ready to hibernate.

he spent some time. Raising numerous toasts to the villagers, he kept praising their wine cellars. After that, the village acquired a new name, Lepavina (Good Wines). The story got its epilogue twenty kilometres from there. The emperor finally had to leave, but he was not feeling too well. He had to throw up, which he did in the place, which from then on, would be known as Carevdar (The Emperor’s Gift).

The story teller did not tell me the emperor’s name, but one can assume that it was Joseph II, the successor of Maria Theresa’s throne. He enjoyed the reputation of being an enlightened ruler, who visited his people, slept at inns and was a favourite protagonist of popular legends. I liked the story and although I could not find any official document to corroborate it, 44

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I do not mind relying on fiction as a foundation for reality. If you wish to feel like an emperor, hop on a bike and pedal across Bilogora.

Chestnuts bring St. Martin’s Day - a holiday not to

Vineyards are everywhere. There are two

strict rules of organized wine fraternities, or it can

sub-regions as well as two dialects which split

be carried out informally, in the good company of

Bilogora into two different winegrowing regions

the free knights of Dionysius. The biggest event is

boasting different appellations of origin: Prigorje-

the St. Martin’s Day Extravaganza in Koprivnica

Bilogora and Slavonia. Wine rods through the

where some thirty wine bishops from all over

winegrowing regions of Koprivnica and Đurđevac,

Croatia elect the master winemaker of the St.

Bilogora and Virovitica complement the bicycle

Martin’s Day ceremony amongst themselves.

trails ever so nicely. There is no lack of vineyards

After St. Martin’s Day, Bilogora becomes

on Vinogora. You will end up in front of a vineyard

seemingly more subdued. Wine is poured into

at the exit of every forest, irrespective of the

barrels where it will mature, while people make

view behind it. And the view can be of Hungary,

the last of their preparations for the winter ahead.

Moslavina, Baranja or Zagorje. Take your pick;

And what about cyclists? They start looking for

there’s Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Rhine Riesling,

their warm winter clothes and mount snow tires

Frankovka, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon

on their bikes.

be missed. Young wine cannot go unbaptized on Bilogora. The baptism ceremony may follow the

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PARKOVI PRIRODE NATURE PARKS

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Tekst i fotografije/Text and photos: Goran Šafarek

SPECTACULAR TELAŠĆICA Telašćica je jedna od najljepših panorama Jadranskog mora, gdje se sreću robusnost visokih strmaca, velika i mirna uvala, surovost kamenjara, te šareno i bogato podmorje.

Posuti poput žućkastosivih bisera usred sinjeg mora, Kornati su najgušća otočna skupina na cijelom Sredozemlju s oko 150 otoka, otočića i hridi. Prigrljena odmah uz njih jest ništa manje spektakularna Telašćica, park prirode na južnom dijelu Dugog otoka, geografski i reljefno dijela prirodne cjeline Kornata.

Telašćica is one of the most beautiful panoramas of the Adriatic Sea, as it juxtapositions the robust and tall cliffs, the large and calm cove, the brutal rocky landscape and the colourfully diverse undersea life. Scattered like yellow-grey pearls in the middle of the Adriatic, Kornati are the most densely spread archipelago in the entire Mediterranean, featuring around 150 islands, isles and rocks. Nestling right next to them is the equally spectacular Telašćica Nature Park, located on the south end of Dugi Otok, geographically a natural part of Kornati.

Č

ekajući zalaz na rubu litice u meditativnome miru, opijen eteričnim mirisima Mediterana, uzbuđenim zviždukom čiopa u lovu i neumornim ljubavnim koncertom cvrčaka iz obližnje šume, čovjek začarano promatra kako crvena sunčeva kugla ljubi horizont, neprekinuto more sve do Italije. Gotovo stotinjak vrtoglavih metara dolje, nošeni snažnim i bučnim vjetrom, valovi se razbijaju u tisuće bijelih kapljica na izlomljenu bijelu stijenu, pravi zid što se okomito uzdiže iz mora. Telašćica je jedna od najljepših panorama Jadranskog mora, gdje se sreću robusnost visokih strmaca, velika i mirna uvala, surovost kamenjara, te šareno i bogato podmorje.

Posuti poput žućkastosivih bisera usred sinjeg mora, Kornati su najgušća otočna skupina na cijelom Sredozemlju s oko 150 otoka, otočića i hridi. Prigrljena odmah uz njih jest ništa manje spektakularna Telašćica, park prirode na južnom dijelu Dugog otoka, geografski i reljefno dijela prirodne cjeline Kornata. Tu se krajnji južni vrh Dugog otoka rascijepio u dva kraka koji strše prema Kornatima, otvarajući golemu uvalu obalne duljine čak 69 kilometara. Uvala je dio prirodne osobitosti zbog kojeg je Telašćica 1988. godine proglašena tada jedinim parkom prirode na moru, nakon što se odvojila od NP Kornati.

Uz dojmljivu sliku desetaka otočića razasutih po moru, možda su gledano iz zraka naj-

spektakularniji veličanstveni klifovi ili strmci.

Prkoseći moru i gravitaciji, pružaju se kilometrima pučinske obale, visoki mjestimice i 150 metara. Na sjeverozapadu se produžuju i izvan granica parka, gdje se klif Gračina obrušuje čak 208 metara prema moru. Odatle se postupno smanjuju podno Muravjaka i nestanu pod morem. Stajati na rubu klifova, pred provalijom, i diviti se spektakularnosti i surovosti krajolika zaista je jedinstven doživljaj. Odmah se može vidjeti da površina te stijene nije ravna nego je na tipično krški način prepuna pukotina, izbočenih dijelova, stuba i ostalih neopisivih oblika. Na udaru gravitacije, sunca i vjetra, na tom ekstremnom staništu preživljava malo izdržljivih vrsta, a CROATIA AIRLINES

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Strmci uvečer Cliffs in the evening

Kućice u blizini jezera Mir Small houses near Mir Lake

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Silueta gavrana Raven's silhouette

Večer u borovoj šumi na samom vrhu klifova Evening in the pine woods on top of cliffs CROATIA AIRLINES

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Dio uvale Telašćica Part of the Telašćica Bay

Škrpina Groper

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jedna od njih je dubrovačka zečina, hrvatski endem. Njezini mekani i svilenkasti listovi rastu iz okomite stijene, pa ih čovjek ne može dohvatiti rukom. Na strmcima se gnijezdi sivi sokol, a nerijetko se može vidjeti vjetrušu, krškog sokola i Eleonorina sokola. Strmci su poslijepodne pozornica gdje razigrane čiope klikćući izvode vratolomije u zraku, loveći leteće kukce. Tu se gnijezde i gavrani te najveća hrvatska sova, ušara, čiji raspon krila doseže 170 centimetara. Noću se u kršu i šumarcima glasa leganj, mala neugledna ptica. Ovakav krški teren pruža mnogo životnog prostora za ptice, čijih vrsta ukupno ima 79.

Svoj jedinstveni krajolik Telašćica temelji na geološkim silama koje su ga tako maštovito oblikovale tijekom milijuna godina. Sve počinje kada je afrička tektonska ploča počela gurati onu europsku. Rezultat je smanjivanje tadašnjeg oceana Tetisa, kojega je Sredozemlje danas ostatak, te uzdizanje Alpa i Dinarida.

Jedan od glavnih aktera bili su rasjedi, kada su pucali slojevi, klizio i propao cijeli jedan dio.

Upravo tako nastali su strmci, čija je jedna polovica na suhom, druga na dnu, a okomica litice ploha kojom su klizila i odvojila se dva bloka. Današnji izgled dobilo je područje potkraj posljednjega ledenog doba, kad se podignula razina mora i poplavljeni su niži dijelovi tadašnjeg kopna koje je zauzimalo velike dijelove Jadrana. Od negdašnjih brda nastali su brojni otočići Kornata, a more je ušlo u dotad suhe tri depresije Telašćice, današnja tri dijela zaljeva što podsjećaju na jezerca po kojima je i dano ime: latinsko tri lagus znači tri jezera, zatim Telagus i konačno Telašćica.

Pretpostavlja se da je otok Kornat s kopnom Telašćice bio spojen do prije 9 - 10.000 godina, a s Dugim otokom do prije 2100 - 2400 godina, dakle još u vrijeme mitskih pothvata antičkih junaka.

Dok se jedna obala Telašćice strmo ruši nad morem, silazak kroz sjenu mirisne borove šume do druge strane blag je i ugodan.

Uskoro se otvara slika mirnoga i razvedenog zaljeva čija se modrina tako životno ističe nad ogoljenim kamenim krajolikom. Nigdje se ne vidi pučina, samo druga strana s niskim i blagim brdima. U plitkome i bistrome moru ljeti se djeca kupaju i istražuju obalne stijene, a malo dalje usidrene su bijele jedrilice. Nema bojazni, jer Telašćica je jedna od najsigurnijih i najvećih prirodnih luka Jadrana. Duga je 8200 metara zračne linije, a široka od 150 do 1500 metara, no ti podaci ne pokazuju svu razvedenost bijele kamene crte, granice mora koje se vijugavo uvlači u dubinu kopna. To je gotovo 70 kilometara obale unutar uvale. Cijeli zaljev iz zraka podsjeća na rakova kliješta, s jednim debljim i drugim tanjim krakom − strmcima.

Razvedenosti posebice pridonosi 25 manjih uvala, od kojih je Čuška dumboka tako uska i duguljasta da podsjeća na pravi fjord, te pet manjih otočića, jedna hrid i brojni rtovi. U sklopu parka prirode i nekoliko je otoka izvan zaljeva, skupina Garmenjaka i Sestrica te Katina na ulazu u zaljev. Osobito je zanimljiv otočić Taljurić, visok samo tri metra i gotovo potpuno plosnat zbog silnih valova što ga prelijevaju i ravnaju.

Preko malih livada na Telašćici stiže se do jezerca zvanog Mir, okruženoga sa svih strana vegetacijom, osim na malome dijelu gdje su stijene prema moru. Gledano iz zraka, njegovo tirkizno plavilo djeluje gotovo nerealno.

Zbog jakog isparavanja i malog dotoka vode, jezero je čak slanije od mora, što je jedinstveno na Jadranu. Ime mu dolazi od latinske riječi murus, što znači zid, kojih ima mnogo u okolici. Zbog male dubine od šest do deset metara, ljeti je temperatura viša nego okolnog mora, a iz istog razloga zimi je hladnija pa se može i zalediti. Zanimljivo je da se taj sitni mulj sive boje smatra ljekovitim. Iako se čini beživotnom, plitka voda obiluje velikim rakovima, koji se naguravaju, te malim račićima kozicama koji naizgled bezbrižno lepršaju u vodi. U muljevitoj dubini živi obična jegulja ili kajman, kako je lokalni naziv. Čini se da jeguljice ulaze kroz pukotine dna i sazrijevaju u jezeru iz kojega ne mogu izaći.

Staza zatim vodi do početka klifova, na udar valova. Ponekad površinu zaparaju jata dobrog dupina, a tu je nekad u uvučenim špiljama živjela i sredozemna medvjedica.

Velik dio parka prirode pripada moru koje je znatno očuvano. Na ravnijem su dnu cvjetnice posidonije, stanište mnogim vrstama, možemo reći jaslice ribama i drugim organizmima. Među njima egzotični je morski konjic, vrsta ribe koja se repom prihvaća za vrhove biljaka. Ženka konjica polaže jajašca u posebnu vrećicu na trbuhu mužjaka, koji ih zatim čuva dok se posve ne razviju, i to do trenutka rađanja. Drugdje je stanište stubokom drukčije. Okomica strmaca ne prestaje u moru, ona ostaje takva još desecima metara, tvoreći neprekinutu stijenu koja se gubi u tami i plavilu dubine. Ovdje u sjeni razvila se koraligenska zajednica, gdje crvene alge te korasti mahovnjaci stvaraju tvrdi vapnenački skelet, a u toj razigranoj čipki života česti su i koralji, osobito gorgonije i morska stabalca.

Te šarene i razgranate lepeze biraju stjenovita dna, često na okomitim zidovima litica, prevjesa, podmorskih špilja, jer vole tamnija mjesta s malo sedimentacije, odnosno mjesta s čistim morem. Biološka je raznolikost koraligena velika, gdje unutar brojnih prostora ili na površini koralja žive drugi organizmi poput

Turistički brod plovi pokraj otočića Garmenjak Tourist ship sailing along the Garmenjak islet

Salpe u podmorju Telašćice Salpa fish in the Telašćica waters

Piramidalni zvončić Campanula pyramidalis CROATIA AIRLINES

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mnogočetinaša, rakova i bodljikaša. Kamene koralje nalazimo u uvali, a to je jedini koralj koji u Jadranu može tvoriti koraljne grebene. Gradi busenaste zadruge koje narastu do 50 centimetara. U uvali ima mnogo riba, pa i velike pučinske kao što su tuna i palamida, ali najčešće su ušate. Općenito je podmorje bogato i očuvano, ponajprije zato što su to zaštićena područja, bez lova i uznemiravanja. Takvo je more prirodno mjesto za razmnožavanje ribe i drugih organizama koji zatim naseljavaju ostatak mora. To upotpunjuje veliku prirodnu vrijednost tih prostora, od strmaca, otočića, uvala i, dakako, mora.

Zbog svojih blaga i draži, Telašćica je odavno privlačila ljude, kao sigurno sidrište u trgovini istočnim Jadranom. Osim toga, to je i bogato ribolovno područje od najranijih dana te se najstarije isprave u kojima se spominje ribolov na našoj obali odnose upravo na ribare Telašćice s kraja 10. stoljeća. Kako je život od mora težak, čovjek je iskorištavao i škrto kopno.

Obrađivao je mala, ali bogata krška polja, oaze plodne zemlje usred oštrog kamenjara i šikare, gdje su natapane znojem rasle masline, vinova loza i povrće. Iako prilično malog opsega, život od zemlje i danas je važan, uglavnom za stanovnike iz obližnjeg mjesta Sali. Dovoljno je skrenuti malo dublje s asfaltirane ceste na 52

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jedan od brojnih puteljaka i ući u svijet pomno obrađenih vrtova čije je zelenilo na jarkocrvenoj zemlji poput male oaze u sivoj stijeni i makiji. U blizini je često lokva, a i koji magarac u društvu koza u sjeni drveća. Ipak dominiraju maslinici koji uspijevaju i na manje gostoljubivijem terenu krških padina, između labirinta suhozida, na tlu brižljivo očišćenom od kamenja. Mnogo manje privlačniji, no po površini značajniji, pašnjaci su na kamenjarima koje su ogolile koze i ovce. Sve je to divan kultivirani krajolik, čak i sada kad se sve manje živi od poljoprivrede. Ljudi su ovdje prisutni od paleolitika, sudeći po ostacima u Krševu polju i Dugopolju, a kod mjesta Sali otkriveno je nalazište u kojemu je pronađeno sedam obrađenih kamenih predmeta. Prva naselja tu potječu još od Ilira, tragovi njihovih gradina danas su vidljivi na uzvisinama Koženjak i Brčastac te grobni humci po poljima.

Slijedi razdoblje rimske vlasti čiji su ostaci najistaknutiji kod Male Proverse, djelomično potopljeni ostaci villae rusticae. Tada su na tome mjestu postojali vivariji za uzgoj žive ribe, a prolaz Male Proverse između Dugog otoka i Katine upravo je tada i prokopan. Razdoblje srednjeg vijeka karakteriziraju starohrvatske predromaničke crkvice poput Sv. Ivana u Stivanjem polju i Sv. Luka u Čuh polju. Poslije Telašćica nije bila stalno naseljena.

Danas, osobito ljeti, odjekuje žamor, ali ne domaćih ljudi nego turista. Telašćica sa svojim fenomenima postala je poznato turističko odredište. U ljetnim je mjesecima posjeti i tisuću gostiju na dan, među kojima je mnogo nautičara. 

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aiting for the sunset on the edge of a cliff in meditative peace, intoxicated with the etheric aromas of the Mediterranean, the excited whistling of swift birds on the hunt and the tireless love concert of the crickets from the nearby forest, one stares as cycadas if enchanted while the red ball of sun kisses the horizon on the open sea stretching all the way to Italy.

Almost a hundred dizzying meters below, carried by the powerful and loud wind, the waves break into thousands of white drops on the ragged white rock - a real wall that rises vertically from the sea. Telašćica is one of the most beautiful panoramas of the Adriatic Sea, as it juxtapositions the robust and tall cliffs, the large and calm cove, the brutal rocky landscape and the colourfully diverse undersea life.

Scattered like yellow-grey pearls in the middle of the Adriatic, Kornati are the most densely spread archipelago in the entire Mediterra-

Koraligenska zajednica podvodnih strmaca Coraligenic community of underwater cliffs

nean, featuring around 150 islands, isles and rocks. Nestling right next to them is the equally spectacular Telašćica Nature Park, located on the south end of Dugi Otok, geographically a natural part of Kornati. That is where the southern tip of Dugi Otok splits into two shanks that stick out towards Kornati and opens a large 69 kilometre long cove. The cove is part of the natural characteristics that led to Telašćica being proclaimed a nature park in 1988 - the only nature park along the coast, after it was separated from the Kornati National Park.

Viewed from the air, the most spectacular features of the impressive image of a dozen islands scattered across the sea are the magnificent cliffs. Defying the sea and gravity, they stretch along kilometres of shore, reaching heights of up to 150 metres. In the northwest they stretch outside of the park’s boundaries, where the Gračina cliff plunges 208 metres towards the sea. From there onwards, they gradually reduce in size until they completely disappear beneath the sea near Muravjak.

Standing on the edge of the cliffs, admiring the spectacular and brutal landscape, is truly a unique experience. It is immediately clear that the surface of the rock is not flat but typical karst terrain full of cracks, bulges, steps

and other indescribable shapes. Exposed to gravity, the sun and the wind, few resilient plant species survive in this extreme habitat, and one of them is the Croatian endemic species of Dubrovnik centaury. Its soft and silky leaves grow from the vertical rocks, so they cannot be reached by hand. The cliffs are also nesting grounds for the peregrine falcon, while other commonly seen animals are the kestrel, the lanner falcon and Eleonora’s falcon. The cliffs are also an afternoon stage on which the playful swifts click and perform aerial acrobatics as they hunt for flying bugs.

It is also a nesting ground for ravens and the largest owl in Croatia - the eagle owl, whose wing span reaches 170 centimetres. At night the karst and the groves echo with sounds made by nightjars - small, unremarkable birds. Such a karst terrain offers plentiful living space for birds, a total of 79 species of them to be precise.

Telašćica owes its unique landscape to geological forces which shaped them in such an imaginative way over millions of years. The story begins when the African tectonic plate started pushing the European one. The result was the dwindling of the Tethys Ocean - the modern day Mediterranean Sea, and the rise of the Alps and the Dinaric range. The main

characters in this story were the faults. When the layers broke, a whole piece slid and fell through. That is how the cliffs were formed, and why half of them are above sea level and the other half is submerged. The vertical face of the cliff is the surface along which the two blocks slid as they separated. The area’s contemporary landscape was defined towards the end of the last ice age, when the level of the sea rose and flooded the lower parts of the landmass which once existed in place of the Adriatic. The onetime hills turned into the numerous islands of the Kornati archipelago, and the sea filled three previously dry depressions of Telašćica, three parts of the cove which are reminiscent of lakes. This is how Telašćica got its name: tri lagus means three lakes in Latin, which forms Telagus and finally Telašćica. It is assumed that Kornat Island was connected with the Telašćica mainland until about 9 or 10 thousand years ago, and it was probably connected with Dugi Otok until the period between 2100 and 2400 years ago - the times of mythological undertakings of ancient heroes.

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Dubrovačka zečina Centaurea ragusina

side is mild and very pleasant. An image of a calm and indented bay soon opens up, and its blueness is so lively against the barren rocky terrain. There is no view of open water, just the other side with low and gentle hills.

Children swim and explore the coastal rocks in the shallow and clear sea during the summer, while white sailboats are anchored nearby.

There are no concerns, as Telašćica is one of the safest and largest natural ports on the Adriatic. It is 8200 metres long as the crow flies, and it is between 150 and 1500 metres wide, but this information alone does not indicate the full indentation of the white stone line, the border of the sea which meanders into the depths of land. There is almost 70 kilometres of coast within the cove. The entire bay is reminiscent of a crab’s claw from the air, featuring one thicker and one thinner part - the cliffs. There are 25 smaller coves which greatly contribute to the indentation, and one of them - Čuška Dumboka, is so narrow and long it is reminiscent of a real fjord, as well as five smaller isles, one rock and numerous reefs. The nature park also includes several islands outside the bay, the archipelagos of Garmenjak and Sestrice, as well as Katina on the entrance to the bay. Especially interesting is the small isle of Taljurić, only three meters high and almost completely flat because of the waves that break over it and smooth it in the process.

Across the small meadows at Telašćica, there is a lake called Mir, surrounded by vegetation on all sides except a small part where the cliffs face the sea. From the air the view of its turquoise blueness seems almost unreal. Due to strong evaporation and a low influx of water, the lake is even saltier than the sea, which is unique on the Adriatic. Its name is derived from the Latin word murus, which means wall, which there are a lot of in the vicinity. Due to the shallow waters of between only six and ten metres deep, the summer temperatures of the water are higher than those of the surrounding sea, and the same reason is why it is colder in the winter, so much so that it can freeze.

Interestingly, the grey mud is considered to be therapeutic. Although it seems lifeless, the 54

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shallow water is abundant with large crabs and small shrimps that seemingly just float around carelessly. The muddy depths are the habitat for the common eel or kajman, as the locals call it. It seems that small eels enter through the cracks in the bottom and mature in the lake from which they cannot leave anymore.

The path leads on to the beginning of the cliffs where the waves break. The surface is sometimes ripped by pods of dolphins, and the Mediterranean monk seal also once lived in the indented caves. A large portion of the nature park belongs to the sea, which is significantly well preserved. The flatter bottom features the Posidonia sea grass, it is the habitat for numerous species, and we can call it a nursery for fish and other organisms.

Among them is the exotic seahorse, a type of fish which uses its tail to grab the tips of plants.

Female seahorses lay eggs in a special sack on the male’s belly, and he keeps them safe until they are fully developed and hatched.

Elsewhere the habitat is very different. The vertical cliffs do not end at the surface of the sea, but it remains just as vertical for dozens of meters more, forming an unbroken rock that disappears in the blueness and darkness of the depths. A reef community has developed in the shade, where the red calcareous algae and the bryozoans form the hard limestone skeleton, while the playful web of life also includes corals, especially gorgonians. The colourful and playful webs like rocky bottoms, and are often on vertical cliff faces, overhangs and undersea caves because they prefer darker spaces with little sedimentation, in other words - places where the sea is clean.

The biological diversity of corals is immense, and numerous other organisms, such as polychaete, crabs and Echinodermata, live inside numerous spaces or on the surface of the corals themselves. Rocky corals are found in the bay, and it is the only coral that can form coral reefs in the Adriatic. It builds clusters that grow up to 50 centimetres in height. The bay is also abundant with fish, including large open water fish such as tuna and Atlantic bonito, but most common is the saddled seabream. The undersea is abundant and well preserved in general, mostly because it is protected territory without hunting or any other kind of disturbance. Such a sea is the natural habitat for breeding of fish and other organisms, which then go to populate the rest of the sea. This completes the superb natural value of the area, including the cliffs, islands, coves and, of course, the sea.

With its treasures and allures, Telašćica has always attracted people as a safe anchor-

ing spot for merchant ships in the eastern Adriatic. Apart from that, it has been a rich fishing spot since the beginning, and the oldest documents that mention fishing on our shores refer to Telašćica fishermen from the late 10 th century. Since living from the sea is difficult, humans have also been using the meagre land. They have cultivated small karst fields, an oasis of fertile land amidst the rock and thickets, where olives, vines and vegetables grow saturated with sweat.

Even if it is on a small scale, living off the land is still an important factor, especially for the inhabitants of the nearby village of Sali. If one leaves the asphalt road and takes one of the numerous dirt paths, they will enter a world of meticulously cultivated gardens whose greenery contrasted against the bright red earth represents a small oasis amidst the grey rock and macchia shrubs. Oftentimes there is a puddle nearby, as well as an occasional donkey resting in the shade of the trees accompanied by goats. However, it is still dominated by the olive orchards, which thrive in less hospitable karst terrain in the labyrinth of dry stone walls, on soil meticulously cleared of rocks. Less attractive, but significant in terms of surface area, are the pastures on the rocky terrain made barren by goats and sheep. All of this represents a wonderfully cultivated landscape, even today when farming and agriculture are lesser sources of income.

Judging by the remains found in Krševo Polje and Dugopolje, people have been present in the area since the Palaeolithic, and the village of Sali features a site with seven items shaped out of stone dating from that period. The first settlements in the area date back to the time of the Illyrians and traces of their structures are still visible on the Koženjak and Brčastac hills, and there are also graves scattered across the fields. This is followed by a period of Roman rule, the relics of which are most visible at Mala Proversa, and consist of partially submerged remains of a villa rustica. At that stage there were vivariums for fish breeding on site, and the Mala Proversa channel between Dugi Otok and Katina was completed around that time.

The period of the Middle Ages is characterised by ancient Croatian, pre-Romanesque churches, such as St. John’s in Stivanje Polje and St. Luke’s in Čuh Polje. In the later periods Telašćica was not permanently inhabited.

Nowadays, especially in the summers, the murmur of people is a common sound. They are not locals, however, but tourists. Thanks to its phenomena, Telašćica has become a significant tourist destination. In the summer months it is visited by a thousand guests a day, including numerous yachters. 

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OBALA COAST

paKo©tane

Bura na Vranskom jezeru Bora wind at Vransko Lake

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Piπe/By Danijela Vulin

Fotografije/Photos Damir Fabijanić

Pogled s vidikovca Kamenjak View from the Kamenjak overlook

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Banjevačka polja

Poučna staza PP Vransko jezero

Fields of Banjevci

Educational trail at Vransko Lake Nature Park

Vransko jezero / Vransko Lake

Vransko jezero / Vransko Lake

Mjesto skladne suprotnosti između dva raja, mora i jezera, slatkoga i slanoga, mašte i zbilje.

Pakoštane su jedinstvena ishodišna točka iz koje u najkraćem vremenu možete doživjeti nezaboravno iskustvo. Zbog neposredne blizine zadarske i splitske zračne luke, dobre cestovne povezanosti kao i redovite trajektne linije s Italijom, Pakoštane su bliže nego ikad prije.

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Lateralni kanal na Vranskom jezeru A lateral canal at Vransko Lake

A place of harmonious contrast between two paradises, the sea and the lake, saltwater and freshwater…

Pakoštane is a unique starting point from which one can have an unforgettable experience in the shortest possible time. The vicinity of the Zadar and Split airports, good road infrastructure, as well as regular ferry connections with Italy, make Pakoštane seem more accessible than ever before.

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Ostaci templarske utvrde u Vrani Vrana Remains of a Templar fort in Vrana

Dvorište Maškovića hana The courtyard of Maškovića Han

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Zgrade na vidikovcu Kamenjak Houses at the Kamenjak outlook

Jugovir, mjesto na Vranskom jezeru gdje se kroz podzemne kanale more prelijeva u jezero Jugovir, a place on Vransko Lake where the sea flows into the lake through underground channels

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Prisnac, tradicionalna pogača od sira

Banjevački brudet (od riječne ribe)

Prisnac, traditional pogača bread with cheese

Freshwater fish brudet of Banjevci

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Vinogradi u veljaÄ?i Vineyards in February

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Zvonik crkve Sv. Uzašašća Gospodinova Bell tower of the Church of the Ascension of Our Lord

Otočić Babuljaš Babuljaš Isle

Stara jezgra mjesta Pakoštane The old centre of Pakoštane

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Pročelje crkve Sv. Uzašašća Gospodinova Facade of the Church of the Ascension of Our Lord

Pakoštane zimi Pakoštane in winter

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Cvjetanje badema u veljaÄ?i Blossoming of almonds in February

Palma na rivi A palm on the promenade

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Tamarisi uz obalu Tamarix trees by the shore

Riva The promenade

Otočić sv. Juština St. Justin’s Isle

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M

jesto Pakoštane smjestilo se u središtu jadranske obale (43° 55´ N, 15° 31´ E) između dviju voda, mora i jezera, okruženo s četiri nacionalna parka (Plitvice, Krka, Paklenica, Kornati) te dva parka prirode (Vransko jezero i Telašćica). Pakoštane su jedinstvena ishodišna točka iz koje u najkraćem vremenu možete doživjeti nezaboravno iskustvo. Zbog neposredne blizine zadarske i splitske zračne luke, dobre cestovne povezanosti, kao i redovite trajektne linije s Italijom Pakoštane su bliže nego ikad prije.

Pakoštane su središte općine koja u svom sastavu ima mjesto Drage - poznato po razigranoj obali i mirisnoj borovoj šumi, otok Vrgadu - sinonim mira i pješčanih plaža te mjesto Vranu smješteno na plodnim poljima.

Obala Pakoštana nadaleko je poznata po svojim plažama, od pješčanih do stjenovitih, otkud turisti kreću u istraživanje obližnjeg otočića Sv. Justina s istoimenom crkvicom koja je ujedno zaštitni znak mjesta. Prema legendi, crkvicu je po uslišanom zavjetovanju dao sagraditi vojnik nakon sretnog povratka iz Lepantske bitke. Mnogobrojni arheološki nalazi na obali i u podmorju svjedoče bogatoj povijesti tog mjesta.

Pakoštane su uz more i turizam tradicionalno okrenute plodnom polju oko Vranskog jezera, a poljoprivredne djelatnosti (maslinarstvo, vinogradarstvo, ratarstvo) zaštitni su znak stanovnika toga kraja.

Prepoznatljiv mediteranski način života nalazimo i ovdje gdje se ljudi okupljaju - na pijaci, kafićima, trgu, mjesnoj crkvi, uživajući u starim običajima poput tradicionalnih procesija, kartanja i boćanja.

Tu svatko može pronaći svoj kutak raja, djeca u igri na pješčanim plažama, odrasli u sjeni borove šume, mladi u noćnom životu, gurmani u dalmatinskim specijalitetima a pustolovi u istraživanju skrivenih tajni prirode i novih doživljaja.

Tragove Sredozemlja osjetit ćete na etno

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gastro manifestaciji Materine užance šetajući uskim kamenim ulicama, uživajući u okusima i mirisima zaboravljene Dalmacije. Ljetnu noć prepustite melodiji dalmatinske pjesme na Festivalu klapa Školjka na jedinstvenoj pozornici u obliku školjke. Oni koji žele postati netko drugi uključit će se u Ljetni karneval i prepustiti glazbi, hrani, vinu i mašakaranom ludilu do dugo u noć.

Potkraj kolovoza ljubitelji povijesti mogu uživati u prizorima velike Pomorske noćne bitke, scenskog spektakla u kojem sudjeluju vitezovi na starim jedrenjacima, drvenim galijama te tradicionalnima latinskim jidrima i gajetama.

Pustolovina se nastavlja otkrivanjem povijesti mjesta Vrana koje je u srednjem vijeku imalo svoje zlatno doba, poznato kao prvo veleposlanstvo Vatikana na području Hrvatske. Tim slavnim danima svjedoče ostaci templarske utvrde u kojoj su se čuvala obilježja hrvatskog kraljevstva (kruna i žezlo) kao i pronađeni Vranski zakonik iz 1454. godine. U 16. stoljeću Osmanlije ulaze u Vranu, a admiral turske flote Jusuf Maškovića, rodom upravo iz ovog kraja, daje sagraditi odmorište (karavan-saraj) danas poznato kao Maškovića han, koji je ujedno i najzapadnija građevina nekadašnjega Otomanskog Carstva na ovim prostorima. U spomen na slavne dane Vrane svake godine potkraj kolovoza održava se povijesno-scenski spektakl Dani Vitezova vranskih kad posjetitelji imaju priliku osjetiti dašak burne prošlosti, proći kroz vrata vremena i sresti vitezove, konjanike, dame, sokolare, žonglere… uživati u gastronomskim delicijama srednjovjekovne kuhinje te mnogobrojnim radionicama, starim obrtima i zanatima.

Između Pakoštana, Vrane i Draga, u zagrljaju plodnog polja, smjestilo se Vransko jezero, najveće prirodno jezero u Hrvatskoj. Stalno, vlažno i bogato, u kamenu ga zapažaju tek oni koji zastaju u trenutku zagledani u vodeno prostranstvo otkrivajući tu tajnu. Ljubitelji ptica to mjesto upisuju u kartu nezaboravnih isku-

stava jer Vransko jezero vrelo je ornitofaune, gdje svoj dom nalazi više od sto tisuća ptica vodarica. U Parku prirode odvažite se na pustolovinu. Naučite promatrati i raspoznavati neke od 256 različitih vrsta ptica s promatračnica na poučnoj stazi Ptice Vranskog jezera u sklopu vođenih tura. Istražujte biciklom, jer vožnju po panoramskoj stazi prate jezerski horizonti i opojni mirisi kadulje i smilja. Pokrenite svoje biće, smirite pogled i dopustite da na Vranskom jezeru priroda bude vaš učitelj.

Mnogi arheološki lokaliteti na Vranskom jezeru svjedoče o važnosti mediteranske močvare za čovjeka, a voda Vranskog jezera kroz povijest ostaje vječno i nepromjenjivo nadahnuće brojnim civilizacijama, od plemena Liburna, kada jezero prvi put dobiva ime, do republika, kraljevstava i carstava, Rimljana, starih Hrvata, Turaka i Mlečana sve do danas.

Rijetko na kojem području možete za tako kratko vrijeme konzumirati tri potpuno različita krajolika: morsku obalu i bogati arhipelag ispred nje, mediteransku močvaru s jedinstvenim ekološkim sustavom te ruralnu idilu ravnokotarskih naselja.

More i otoci, jezero i plodna polja taj prostor čine nepogrešivim odredištem za izbirljive. Ne možete li se odlučiti između slanoga i slatkoga godišnjeg odmora, aktivnoga ili onoga gdje dani prolaze laganini - odlučite se za Pakoštane i na jednome mjestu pronađite sve!

Legenda kaže da se čovjek prosječno nasmije 15 puta u danu, a onaj koji ljetuje u Pakoštanima i više. 

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he town of Pakoštane is located in the middle of the Adriatic coast (43° 55´ N, 15° 31´ E). It is nestled between two waters, the sea and the lake, surrounded by four national parks (Plitvice, Krka, Paklenica, Kornati) and two nature parks (Vransko Lake and Telašćica). Pakoštane is a unique starting point from which one can have an unforget-

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table experience in the shortest possible time.

The vicinity of the Zadar and Split airports, good road infrastructure, as well as regular ferry connections with Italy, make Pakoštane seem more accessible than ever before.

Pakoštane is a municipal centre which consists of the town of Drage - known for its playfully indented coastline and lush pine forest, the island of Vrgada - a synonym for peace and sand beaches, as well as the town of Vrana - located on fertile fields.

The shores of Pakoštane are known far and wide for their sandy as well as rocky beaches, from which tourists embark on exploration trips to the nearby isle of St. Justin. The isle features a church of the same name which is also the town’s symbol. According to legend, the church was built by a soldier who fulfilled his vow upon returning safely from the battle of Lepanto. Numerous archaeological finds on the coast and in the off shore stand witness to the rich history of this town.

Apart from the sea and tourism, Pakoštane is traditionally dedicated to the fertile field surrounding Vransko Lake, while agricultural activities (olive and wine cultivation, as well as farming) are the trademarks among the local population.

A recognizable, Mediterranean lifestyle is also evident here; people gathering at bars on the square or at the local church, enjoying old customs such as traditional processions, card games and playing bocce.

Anyone can find their private piece of paradise here; children enjoy playing on the sandy beaches, adults find leisure in the shade of the pine trees, youth indulge in the nightlife, gourmets enjoy the Dalmatian specialties, and adventurists explore the hidden secrets of nature and new experiences.

Traces of the Mediterranean can also be felt at the ethno-gastro event Materine užance, as one strolls along the narrow stone-paved

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streets, enjoying the flavours and scents of forgotten Dalmatia. Summer nights are laden with the melodies of Dalmatian songs performed as part of the Školjka (Shell) Klapa Festival, which takes place on a unique shellshaped stage. Those who want to transform into someone else can partake in the Summer Carnival and indulge in music, food, wine and masked madness until the early hours of the morning. In late August, history aficionados can enjoy the re-enactment of the Naval Night Battle, a stage spectacle performed by knights on old sailboats, wooden galleys and other traditional types of boats such as the gajeta.

The adventure continues with the discovery of the history of the town of Vrana, which had its golden period during the Middle Ages when it was renowned as the first embassy of the Vatican in the area of modern-day Croatia.

Standing witness to those glorious days are the remains of the Templar Fort, where symbols of the Croatian kingdom (the crown and sceptre) were held, as well as the discovered Vrana Code dating back to 1454. In the 16th century Turkish conquerors entered Vrana, and the admiral of the Turkish fleet, Jusuf Maškovića, who was born in the area, built a rest area (caravanserai) known as Maškovića Han, which is the westernmost structure of the onetime Ottoman Empire in the area. In order to commemorate the glorious days of Vrana, a historic stage spectacle - Days of the Knights of Vrana, is held every year at the end of August, during which the visitors have the opportunity to experience the turbulent past, pass through the gates of time and meet knights, horsemen, ladies, falconers, jugglers… They can also enjoy the specialties of medieval cuisine, as well as partake in numerous workshops, old crafts and trades.

Vransko Lake, located in the embrace of a fertile field between Pakoštane, Vrana and

Frankfurt - Split, daily Munich - Split, on Saturdays Berlin (TXL) - Split, on Saturdays

Drage, is the largest natural lake in Croatia. It is only noticed in stone by those who pause in the moment and stare at the watery expanse, only to discover its secret. Aficionados of birds include this place on their map of unforgettable experiences because Vransko Lake is an epicentre of ornithofauna - a habitat for more than one hundred thousand waterbirds.

Indulge in an adventure whilst visiting the nature park. Learn to watch and recognize some of the 256 different species of birds from the observation platforms along the educative path titled Birds of Vransko Lake. Also explore by bicycle, because a ride along the panoramic paths is complemented by lake horizons and intoxicating scents of sage and immortelle. Move your entire being, relax your gaze and allow nature to be your teacher whilst at Vransko Lake. Numerous archaeological localities at Vransko Lake stand witness to the importance the Mediterranean swamp has for humans, while the water of Vransko Lake has remained eternal and unchanged throughout history, as an inspiration to numerous civilizations, from the tribes of Liburni - when the lake was first named, to the times of the republics, kingdoms and empires of the Romans, ancient Croats, Turks and Venetians until today.

Rare are the areas from which one can consume three entirely different landscapes in such a short timeframe: the coast and the vast archipelago in front of it, a Mediterranean swamp with a unique ecosystem, and a rural idyllic of local habitats.

The sea and the islands, the lake and fertile fields, make this area a perfect destination for picky visitors. If you cannot decide between a saltwater or freshwater holiday, an active one or a relaxed one, choose Pakoštane and find all of it in one place!

Legend has it that a human laughs 15 times a day on average, while those who spend their summers in Pakoštane laugh even more. 

Düsseldorf - Dubrovnik, on Sundays Frankfurt - Dubrovnik, daily Frankfurt - Zadar, on Mondays and Fridays

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Jakov Đinđić, Velid Jakupović, Milan Mišo Lakić, Goran Šafarek

(69-71) Arhiva TZO Pakoštane, Arhiva JUPP Vransko jezero / Archive of the Pakoštane Tourist Board, Archive of the Vransko Lake Nature Park Public Institution;

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Oaza luksuza u najmirnijem dijelu Zagreba

A peaceful oasis of luxury in Zagreb

Prema istraživanju, popis stvari na koje treba osobito obratiti pozornost pri kupnji stana jesu - lokacija, promet i glasnoća, otvorenost suncu, sigurnost, blizina svih potrebnih sadržaja i prometna povezanost. Na zagrebačkom Svetom Duhu odnedavno možete pronaći ekskluzivan stambeni objekt, s 22 moderna stana okružena zelenilom, koji zadovoljava baš sve tražene parametre.

Recent research has shown that location, traffic, neighborhood safety and nearness of all required amenities are crucial elements you should pay attention to when it comes to buying a new apartment. At Sveti Duh - Zagreb, now you can find an exclusive residential building with 22 modern apartments ranging from 83 m2 - 224 m2 that satisfy all of the mentioned parameters.

Prostrani stanovi od 83 m2 do 224 m2 čine razliku na tržištu nekretnina većom kvalitetom građevinskih materijala i ugrađene opreme. Moderni objekt na Sv. Duhu sagradila je tvrtka ING-GRAD d.o.o. - renomirano poduzeće za graditeljstvo i projektiranje s 30-godišnjim iskustvom.

These spacious apartments make a difference in the realestate market, representing high quality of construction materials and built-in equipment. This modernly equipped condominium was built by a renowned company ING-GRAD d.o.o., known for its 30 year experience in construction and planning.

Investitor projekta, Brinikol d.o.o., kao prednost navodi lokaciju idealnu za kvalitetan obiteljski život. Suvremena novogradnja nalazi se u blizini dječjih vrtića, škole, trgovina, crkve te zagrebačkog središta. Valja istaknuti i dobru prometnu infrastrukturu, koja olakšava svakodnevne aktivnosti.

U skladu sa svjetskim trendovima, stanovi imaju prostrane terase i vrtove, osmišljene za poticanje najmlađih stanara na igru u prirodi.

Zgrada ima ventilirajući sustav izolacije, koji osigurava ugodnu temperaturu doma, čak i bez pomoći klimatizacijskih uređaja.

Unutrašnjost stana krase hrastovi parketi kao simbol estetike i dugotrajnosti, a izolaciju i prirodnu ventilaciju zraka omogućuje najkvalitetnija aluminijsko-drvena stolarija.

Dnevnu dozu prirodne svjetlosti i pogleda u prirodu omogućuju staklene stijene koje ujedno štede energiju, a u potkrovlju postavljeni su krovni otvori velux s izvanjskom roletom i daljinskim upravljanjem. Za potpuni doživljaj luksuza, u kupaonicama je ugrađeno podno grijanje, a u garaži nalazi se epoxi pod.

Vrhunski materijali i oprema samo su neke od prednosti života u stanovima u kojima luksuz postaje stvarnost.

Posjetite www.ing-grad.hr ili nazovite na +3851/3033-033 za siguran odabir svog novog doma.

The project investor, Brinikol d.o.o., states the location as one of the most important factors for a fulfilled family life.

This contemporary building offers a vicinity to a number of venues, such as a: preschool, elementary school, retail store, church and the centre of the city. Additionally, a great traffic infrastructure makes daily activities a lot easier.

In order to follow the world trends in construction and suit the needs of the youngest inhabitants, every apartment has a terrace and/or a garden.

The integration of a rainscreen is what keeps the apartment temperature pleasant, even without the help of an air-condition system. The inside of the apartment offers a beautiful and durable oak parquetry and a frame construction made of wood an aluminium for natural airflow.

For a complete experience of luxury, the floors in bathrooms are heated and the ones in the garage offer epoxy coating.

Top quality equipment and building materials are just some of the benefits for the apartments where luxury becomes a reality.

Visit www.ing-grad.hr or call +3851/3033-033 and choose your best option for a future home.

Otoci Islands Piπe/By Ružica Mikačić

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Fotografije/Photos Alan Grubelić

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J

Ta zelena oaza ostala je pošteđena od suvremene gužve, buke i užurbanosti pa zato Prvić, otok rijetkih stanovnika, koji tek jedan kilometar mora dijeli od grada Vodica i obližnjeg Šibenika, živi i danas svoj gotovo nevjerojatno miran i jednostavan život okupan mirisom bora i samoniklog aromatičnog bilja, smokve, loze i maslina.

This green oasis has remained spared of modern day congestion, noise and bustle.

Therefore, Prvić Island, an island of few residents only a kilometre off the coast of the cities of Vodice and nearby Šibenik, lives its almost unbelievably calm and simple existence, complemented by the aromas of pine trees and wild aromatic herbs, figs, grapes and olives, until this very day.

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edinstvena je niska otoka, otočića i hridi koji su se kao brodovi usidrili u Šibenskom arhipelagu, tvoreći čipku kamene ozelenjene ljepote razasute po najbistrijemu moru tirkiznih tonova. Njih čak 249 prosulo se poput morskih bisera pred obalnom rivijerom Šibenika, stvarajući jedan od najljepših morskih prilaza Jadranske obale, koji nautičare ostavlja bez daha, a oduševljava sve željne ljepote i mira netaknute prirode.

U tom nizu otočića tek je šest njih naseljeno, a svojom nedirnutom prirodom pažnju privlači osobito onaj najbliži kopnu - otok Prvić. Ta zelena oaza ostala je pošteđena od suvremene gužve, buke i užurbanosti pa zato Prvić, otok rijetkih stanovnika, koji tek jedan kilometar mora dijeli od grada Vodica i obližnjeg Šibenika, živi i danas svoj gotovo nevjerojatno miran i jednostavan život okupan mirisom bora i samoniklog aromatičnog bilja, smokve, loze i maslina.

Osobit je i po mnogo čemu drugačiji i prilaz otoku, prema kojemu se stiže iz nekoliko pravaca brodskim linijama. Gledajući Prvić s kopna iz obližnjih Vodica kojima administrativno pripada, čovjek bi pomislio kako tu malu udaljenost može i preplivati, jer čini se da je Prvić blizu kopnu. Pa, ipak, taj samo jedan kilometar mora koje ga dijeli od vodičke turističke vreve dovoljan je da vas u tih nekoliko minuta ugodne vožnje taksi-brodom dovede u potpuno novi, gotovo zaboravljeni svijet mira i autentične ljepote Dalmacije. Na tom otočiću tek nešto većemu od dva četvorna kilometra dva su mjesta s ukupno tek nešto više od 400 stanovnika, Prvić Luka i Prvić Šepurine. Na Prviću se za ljetnih dana i noći jednoličan zvuk cvrčka nadglasava samo sa šumom valova koji udaraju o pješčane plaže.

I to doista! Jer, Prvić je jedan od rijetkih otoka na kojemu vas neće uznemiravati buka automobila zato što ih na zelenom otočiću - nema. Njegova jedinstvenost u tome je da njegovi stanovnici imaju dva prijevozna sredstva - traktor koji im služi za put do polja, maslinika, vinograda ili u susjedno selo. I kaić, mali brod kojim se, koliko god puta dnevno požele, prebace sa svoje otočke oaze mira na kopnenu stranu Jadrana, obave što moraju i vraćaju se svome prvom otoku. Prvomu, jer najbliži je kopnu pa izvor njegova imena još i danas dijeli stručnjake na one koji smatraju da se Prvić tako zove upravo zbog toga što je prvi do obale, a drugi vjeruju kako mu ime dolazi od Prvina, proljetnog Boga starih poganskih Hrvata koji su tu došli iz pradomovine. Kako god da je dobio ime, Prvić je danas zaštićena nacionalna kulturna baština u kojoj svaka graditeljska aktivnost mora imati suglasnost konzervatora.

Povijesne knjige kažu da su Prvić prvi nastanjivali redovnici pustinjaci koji su u osami živjeli svoj redovnički život, a fratri su glagoljaši u 15. stoljeću tu imali najjače uporište slavenskog bogoslužja na šibenskom području. Redovnicima su se od 15. stoljeća na Prviću počele pridruživati plemenitaške obitelji koje su tu sagradile ljetnikovce i kuće za odmor, koje su im postale utočište u bijegu pred srednjovjekovnom kugom što je harala kopnom.

Okruženi zelenilom borova i na tek nekoliko koraka od pitome morske obale, plemenitaši su od 15. stoljeća na Prviću počeli graditi crkve i popločavati ulice.

Nakon dolaska fratara počela je gradnja crkve Sv. Marije od Milosti sa samostanom, a zanimljivo je da je crkva građena u nekoliko etapa pa je zvonik crkve odvojen od samostanskoga i crkvenog dijela. Crkva Svete Marije ili Gospe od Milosti počela se graditi 1461. godine, a i danas dominira Prvić Lukom u njezinom centralnom dijelu duboke uvale koja pruža zaštitu nautičarima. U njoj je svoj mir našao po vlastitoj želji i Faust Vrančić, renesansni mislilac i znanstvenik čije se ime veže uz izum padobrana, odnosno Homo Volansa letećeg čovjeka. Toga školovanog uglednika rođenoga u Šibeniku 1551. godine, koji je svoj život proveo na kraljevskim dvorima tadašnje Europe na najvišim državničkim funkcijama, nakon smrti u Veneciji 1617. pokopali su, na njegovo traženje, u crkvu Gospe od Milosti u Prvić Luci, gdje mu je i danas grob. Četiri stoljeća nakon što je taj veliki renesansni um svojom genijalnošću zadivio Europu osmišljavanjem i detaljnim opisivanjem 56 uređaja i tehničkih rješenja kojima bi život i rad čovjeku trebalo olakšati u priručniku Machinae novae, ali i pisanjem Rječnika pet najplemenitijih jezika Europe (latinskog, talijanskog, njemačkog, dalmatinskog i mađarskog), Faust Vrančić dobio je dostojno obilježje svoje ljubavi prema Prviću. U Prvić Luci sagrađen je Memorijalni centar koji nosi njegovo ime, a otok danas zovu Faustov otok. Ta moderna atraktivna građevina, koja se nalazi na rivi, danas je središnje mjesto turističkih posjeta i obilazaka. Memorijalni centar pruža uvid u otkrića i

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tehnička rješenja Fausta Vrančića, koji je neke svoje ideje dijelom nadograđivao i na crtežima Leonarda da Vincija. Poznata je njegova konstrukcija visećih željeznih mostova, mlinova, preša za ulje i vino, a osobito njegova letećeg čovjeka kao preteče današnjeg padobrana.

Na multimedijalnim displejima i edukativne su igre namijenjene najmlađim posjetiteljima pa u njemu svatko može pronaći ponešto za sebe.

Neposredno do toga impresivnog zdanja u Prvić Luci kamena je škola iz 1877. godine.

Nju je sagradilo zajedničkom slogom samo selo Prvić Luka, a na spomen-ploči s likom svetog Vjekoslava i danas je natpis: Ova kuća bi sagrađena slogom puka. Pučka učiona Prvić Luke. Godine 1892. Sveti Vjekoslave, moli za nas. Kako vrijeme čini svoje, djece za školu na Prviću danas je tek dvadesetak, pa je škola postala prevelika. U skladu sa suvremenim trendovima, nekadašnja škola danas je postala hotel Maestral sa tri zvjezdice, jedini na otoku.

Ugodnom šetnjom kroz kamene ulice i stoljetne kuće, od kojih su mnoge posljednjih godina obnovljene i lijepo uređene, uz maslinike i voćnjake bajama, višanja i smokava, za tek desetak minuta stiže se do drugog mjesta na otoku - Prvić Šepurine. Nekoliko desetljeća nakon što je Prvić Luka dobila svoje stalne stanovnike, oko 1546. godine, stanovništvo sela Srima na obali, u strahu pred Osmanlijama, bježi na Prvić i nastanjuje njegov zapadni dio. Danas je to maleno otočko selo s nekoliko stotina stanovnika i lijepom kamenom rivom i trgom koji pruža osunčanu zavjetrinu i usred zime. U Prvić Šepurini nalaze se dvije crkve, jedna posvećena svetoj Jeleni Križarici i poznata po baroknom oltaru i zvoniku koji svakodnevno otkucava vrijeme. Malo je dalje iznad mjesta crkva Marijina Uznesenja iz 15. stoljeća, koja danas više nije u funkciji, a do nje i danas velebno zdanje nekadašnjeg ljetnikovca obitelji Vrančić, gdje je mali Faust provodio ljeta i najljepše godine života.

A pješčane uvale i morsko plavetnilo isti su kao i onda kada su čekali slavnoga renesansnog vizionara i mislioca da se vrati iz svijeta na svoj Prvić, o kojemu je sanjao na carskim i kraljevskim dvorima. Ondje i danas, baš kao i prije 400 godina, namjernike oduševljavaju iste čudesne boje neba i mora, kamena i maslina, brnistre i procvjetalih badema, suhozida i borova. Jer, otok Prvić i danas usne i budi se samo s pjesmom cvrčka... 

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uch an array of islands, isles and rocks is unique; anchored like boats in the Šibenik archipelago, forming a lacework of rocky green beauty littered across the clear turquoise sea. As many as 249 of CROATIA AIRLINES

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www.dalmatia.hr info@dalmatia.hr Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, 21000 Split, Croatia tel/fax: +385 (0)21 490 032, 490 033, 490 036

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them are scattered like sea pearls just off the Šibenik Riviera, forming one of the most beautiful sea accesses on the Adriatic coast. This leaves yachters breathless and fills everyone thirsty for the beauties and peace of untouched nature with joy. Only six of the islands are inhabited, while the one closest to the shore - Prvić Island, draws special attention due to its untouched nature. This green oasis has remained spared of modern day congestion, noise and bustle. Therefore, Prvić Island, an island of few residents only a kilometre off the coast of the cities of Vodice and nearby Šibenik, lives its almost unbelievably calm and simple existence, complemented by the aromas of pine trees and wild aromatic herbs, figs, grapes and olives, until this very day.

Access to the island, which is possible by boat from several directions, is unique and different than most in many ways.

Looking at Prvić from the mainland, from nearby Vodice, to which it belongs administratively, one would think the short distance between the island and the land is easily swimmable.

However, just the one kilometre of sea which separates it from the tourist hubbub of Vodice is enough to enter an entirely new, almost forgotten world of peace and authentic Dalmatian beauties, which are just a few minutes away by taxi-boat. The island’s surface covers just over two square kilometres, it has two settlements - Prvić Luka and Prvić Šepurine, and slightly more than 400 inhabitants. During the summer days and nights on Prvić, the constant sound of crickets is topped only by the sound of the waves breaking on the sandy beaches.

It truly is so, because Prvić is one of the rare islands where the noise of cars is no concern, simply because there are none on this green island. The island is unique for the only two options its citizens have in terms of transport: a tractor which they use to go to tend to their fields, olive orchards, vineyards or to visit the neighbouring village; and a small boat which they can use any number of times a day to exchange their island oasis of peace for the mainland, conduct whatever business they have, only to return to their first (prvi) island. First because it is the nearest island to the mainland, but experts are still in disagreement about the roots of Prvić’s name; some believe it was named for being the first (prvi) island from the mainland, while others believe it got its name after Prvin - the spring god of ancient pagan Croats who arrived there from the ancient homeland. Whatever it was named after, Prvić is nowadays a protected national cultural heritage, where any construction activity must have the consent of conservationists.

Historic books reveal that Prvić was first inhabited by hermit monks who lived their monastic lives in solitude, while Glagolitic friars established their biggest stronghold of Slavic liturgy in the Šibenik area on the island in the 15th century. As of the 15th century, the monks were joined by noble families who built their summer residences and holiday homes on the island, which later served as refuges during their escape from the medieval plague that ravaged the mainland. Surrounded by green pine trees, and just steps away from the shore, noblemen started constructing churches and paving streets on Prvić as of the 15th century.

The construction of the Church of St. Mary of Mercy and its adjacent monastery began after the arrival of the friars.

Interestingly enough, the church was constructed in several phases, and so the church bell-tower is separate from the monastery and the church itself. The Church of St. Mary CROATIA AIRLINES

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or Our Lady of Mercy began construction in 1461, and until this day it dominates Prvić Luka and the central part of its deep bay, which offers shelter to yachters. Based on his own wishes, it is the final resting place of Faust Vrančić, the renaissance thinker and scientist whose name is tied to the invention of the parachute, or the Homo Volans - flying man. As an educated and highly distinguished persona, who was born in Šibenik in 1551 and spent his entire life in the royal courts all over Europe, holding the highest government positions, upon his death in Venice in 1617, at his own request, he was buried in the Church of St. Mary of Mercy in Prvić Luka, where his grave can still be found today.

Four centuries after the great renaissance mind impressed Europe with his genius, having invented and described in detail in 84

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his manual Machinae Novae as many as 56 devices and technical solutions designed to make life and the work of humans easier, but also having written the Dictionary of the Five Most Noble Languages in Europe (Latin, Italian, German, Dalmatian and Hungarian), Faust Vrančić received a worthy memorial to his love of Prvić. A memorial centre bearing his name was constructed in Prvić Luka, and the island is nowadays also referred to as Faust’s Island. The modern, attractive structure, located on the very seafront, is nowadays a central place for tourist visits and tours. The memorial centre offers insight into the revelations and technical solutions of Faust Vrančić, who also partially based some of his ideas on the drawings of Leonardo da Vinci. Vrančić’s best known concepts are the construction of iron suspension bridges, mills, oil and wine

presses, and especially his flying man - the predecessor to the modern day parachute.

The multimedia displays feature educative games aimed at the youngest visitors, and so everyone will find something they can enjoy.

Right next to the impressive complex in Prvić Luka is a stone school dating back to 1877. It was built in a joint effort by the village of Prvić Luka, and a memorial plaque features the portrait of St. Vjekoslav with the inscription: This house was built in a joint effort by the village of Prvić Luka. It is the public school of Prvić Luka. 1892. St. Vjekoslav, pray for us.

Over time the number of school children in Prvić Luka has been reduced to only twenty pupils, and so the school is now too large. In accordance with contemporary trends, the onetime school has been transformed into the three-star Maestral Hotel - the only hotel on the island.

After a pleasant ten minute stroll through the cobblestone streets and centuries-old houses, many of which have been renovated over the last few years, passing olive, almond, cherry and fig orchards, one will arrive at the second settlement on the island - Prvić Šepurine. Several decades after Prvić Luka got its permanent residents, around 1546, the population of the village of Srima, which is located on the mainland, fled to Prvić in fear of the Ottoman Turks, and they inhabited the island’s western part. It is nowadays a small island village with a few hundred inhabitants and a beautiful stone promenade and square which provide a sunny shelter from the winds, even in the middle of winter. Prvić Šepurine is home to two churches. One is dedicated to St. Helen the Crusader, and it is renowned for its baroque altar and bell-tower which clocks the hours every day. A little further away, above the village, is the now defunct Church of Mary’s Ascension dating back to the 15th century. Next to the church is the magnificent building of the onetime summer residence of the Vrančić family, where little Faust spent his summers and some of the best years of his life.

The sandy coves and the blueness of the sea are the same as they were when they waited for the famous renaissance visionary and thinker to return from his travels and settle back on Prvić, which he dreamt about while serving on the royal courts across Europe.

Just like 400 years ago, visitors are left in awe of the same wondrous colours of the sky and the sea, the stone and olives, the broom plants and blooming almond trees, dry stone walls and pines. Prvić Island still falls asleep and awakens to the sound of crickets and nothing else… 

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Naša odredišta Our destinations

Kipovi na krovu gotovo potpuno obnovljene milanske katedrale, simbola grada Statues on the roof of the almost completely renovated Milan Cathedral, the symbol of the city

sVe najboLje od itaLije 86

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the best of itaLy

Piπe/By Željko Žutelija Fotografije/Photos Anna Serrano i/and Turistička zajednica grada Milana / Tourist Board of the City of Milan

Milano je skladno prožimanje tradicije i modernizma, kulturno-povijesne baštine i suvremene arhitekture Milan is a harmonious permeation of tradition and modernism, the cultural-historic heritage and contemporary architecture

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U svakom trenutku i na svakome mjestu Milano nenametljivo iskazuje svoju moć u kojoj se ne osjeća želja za dominacijom, ali očekuje se poštovanje onoga što su stvorili slavni preci i što ostvaruju nadareni suvremenici. I zato je Milano jedna od nezaobilaznih europskih metropola za sve one koji žele razumjeti i doživjeti Italiju, ali i uživati u najvišim civilizacijskim dometima.

At every moment and every step of the way, Milan discreetly demonstrates its power which does not show a blatant desire for domination, but rather calls

Piazza Duomo, omiljeno okupljalište turista Piazza Duomo, a favourite gathering spot for tourists

Galerije i muzeji važan su dio turističke ponude grada Galleries and museums are an important aspect of the tourist offer in the city

for respect for everything that illustrious predecessors created in the past and that talented contemporaries continue to create. This is why Milan is one of the European capitals not to be missed by anybody who wants to understand and experience Italy and also enjoy the highest achievements of civilisation.

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A

ko je Rim u urbanoj terminologiji poznat kao Vječni Grad (Città Eterna) - a za mnoge je i neupitna prijestolnica svijeta - onda se s pravom pitamo što je za Italiju i svijet Milano, središte najrazvijenije talijanske pokrajine Lombardije, s više od četiri milijuna stanovnika na širem gradskom području i oko 1,400.000 na užem, znatnim dijelom svrstanom u spomeničku kategoriju?

Iako znamo da metropole kao što je Milano izmiču jednoznačnim definicijama, nećemo pogriješiti proglasimo li ga najljepšim izložbenim prostorom onoga najboljega od Italije, promicateljem svega onoga što je tu zemlju - ne tako davno petu svjetsku velesilu - proslavilo u Europi i svijetu.

A pod pojmom velesile nije se razumijevao samo zahuktali gospodarski razvoj, nego i najviši dometi kulture življenja, unutar koje su važno mjesto zauzimali kultura odijevanja, kultura prehrane, kultura njegovanja, elitna kultura visoke umjetnosti, rekreativno-sportska kultura, kultura komuniciranja i vječita, još od doba Rimskog Carstva snažno izražena težnja za ljepotom i rafiniranošću.

Najviši civilizacijski domet Sve to Milano je okupio pod jedinstvenom urbanom kupolom, tako moćnom da oduševljava milijune posjetitelja iz Europe i svijeta, ali i sunarodnjake koji ga smatraju istinskom metropolom Italije i potvrdom teze kako je uzorno organiziran grad najviši civilizacijski domet ljudske zajednice. U Milanu se kulturno-povijesno naslijeđe skladno prožima sa suvremenim dostignućima, a grad je svojevrsna akademija života koja svakog pridošlicu ili posjetitelja - prihvati li standarde propisanoga urbanog ponašanja - prima u svoju zajednicu kako bi pridonosio općem boljitku.

U svakom trenutku i na svakome mjestu Milano nenametljivo iskazuje svoju moć u kojoj se ne osjeća želja za dominacijom, ali očekuje se poštovanje onoga što su stvorili slavni preci i što ostvaruju nadareni suvremenici. I zato je Milano jedna od nezaobilaznih europskih metropola za sve one koji žele razumjeti i doživjeti Italiju, ali i uživati u najvišim civilizacijskim dometima. Posebno pak oduševljava sposobnost tog velegrada da zadovolji najšire interese i potrebe i najzahtjevnijih posjetitelja.

Milano ne privlači samo financijsko-poduzetničku elitu, strastvene šopingholičare, zanesene ljubitelje kulturnih i sportskih događanja, hodočasnike povijesnih znamenitosti, ljubitelje spektakla, rafinirane gurmane, turističke nomade i milijune ljudi s istančanim osjećajem za lijepo, nego - sve njih zajedno. Nije li upravo to savršeno predstavljanje zemlje poznate i kao Bel Paese, za koju je Henryk Sienkiewicz, CROATIA AIRLINES

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poljski književnik i dobitnik Nobelove nagrade 1905. godine, rekao da svaki čovjek ima dvije domovine: prva je ona u kojoj je rođen, a druga je Italija.

Druga Svjetska izložba Milano, grad koji su četiristotinjak godina prije Krista osnovali Kelti, dva stoljeća poslije osvojili Rimljani (u vrijeme cara Dioklecijana, 293. godine, bio je prijestolnica Zapadnog Rimskog Carstva), a zatim su se, u stoljećima nemirnoj Europi izjedanoj ratovima, u vladanju gradom i regijom Lombardijom izmjenjivali mnogi osvajači, od slavnih aristokratskih obitelji Visconti i Sforza do Španjolaca, Austrijanaca, Napoleona i njemačkih okupatora u vrijeme Drugoga svjetskog rata. Svako je to razdoblje ostavilo duboke tragove u povijesnom razvoju Milana, osobito kad je riječ o kulturno-povijesnoj i spomeničkoj baštini kojoj se danas dive milijuni posjetitelja iz cijeloga svijeta.

Prva Svjetska izložba održana je u Milanu 1906. godine. Lani, 109 godina poslije tog spektakularnog događanja u početku 20. stoljeća, u Milanu je održana i Druga svjetska izložba (EXPO), koju je u šest mjeseci, od travnja do studenoga 2015., posjetilo više od 20 milijuna posjetitelja. EXPO 2015. preobrazio je Milano i označio novu epohu u razvoju grada. Temeljito pripremljen za spektakularno događanje, Milano je jednostavno procvao na mnogim područjima, još jednom demonstrirajući ono najbolje od Italije.

Malo će koji posjetitelj Milana ostati ravnodušan pri pogledu na veličanstvenu milansku katedralu (Duomo di Milano), četvrtu po veličini u svijetu i sada već gotovo posve obnovljenu, sa zlatnom statuom Madonne na najvišem tornju.

Remek-djelo gotičke arhitekture građeno je od kraja 14. do kraja 16. stoljeća, na jednako tako veličanstvenoj Piazzi del Duomo. Na krovu katedrale, s pogledom na cijeli grad, održavaju se izložbe skulptura eminentnih autora, a priređuju se i koncerti pod vedrim nebom.

Impresivnom Galerijom Vittorio Emanuele II., s najprestižnijim trgovinama i restoranima, Piazza del Duomo povezana je s trgom na kojem je kazalište Teatro alla Scala, jedno od najljepših u svijetu, sagrađeno između 1865. i 1877. godine. Na dan opernih i baletnih premijera svi restorani u tom dijelu grada otvoreni su u skladu s trajanjem predstava, pa se i u kasne sate može večerati i u opuštajućoj atmosferi razmjenjivati dojmove o kazališnom događaju.

Ni duži boravak u Milanu ne bi bio dovoljan da se razgledaju samo najznačajnije kulturne znamenitosti kao što je muzej u dvorcu aristokratske obitelji Sforza i Triennale di Milano, pinakoteka Brera i mnoge druge kulturne ustanove. Malo će tko propustiti pogledati

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Posljednju večeru Leonarda da Vincija u dominikanskoj crkvi Santa Maria delle Grazie, jedno od najvećih remek-djela u povijesti svjetske likovne umjetnosti.

Procvat kulture EXPO 2015. potaknuo je otvaranje novih i obnovu postojećih muzejskih prostora. Primjerice Fondazione Prada na jugu Milana (Largo Isarco), površine 19.000 četvornih metara, novi je muzejski kompleks smješten u bivšoj destileriji iz 1910. godine. Potpisuje ga slavni arhitekt Rem Koolhaas i studio OMA, a na spektakularan način sjedinjuje tradicionalnu industrijsku baštinu i modernu arhitekturu.

Postojećem objektu pridodane su tri nove strukture, nazvane Podium, Cinema i Torre.

Pirellijev HangarBicocca, površine 15.000 četvornih metara, jedan je od najvećih izložbenih prostora suvremene umjetnosti u Europi, a posjećuje ga stotine tisuća ljudi iz cijelog svijeta. Pirelli se još jedanput potvrđuje kao ugledna korporacija i snažan promotor i podupiratelj suvremene umjetnosti koji omogućuje multikulturalni likovni dijalog i afirmira vrhunske domete suvremene umjetnosti.

Na Porta Genovi redizajniran je i rekoncipiran MUDEC (Museo delle culture), otvoren 1990. godine. U starom industrijskom objektu kreirani su novi prostori u kojima se predstavljaju izložbe raznovrsnih autora i najrazličitijih koncepcija, od Paula Gauguina i Joana Miròa do dječje ikone Barbie. MUDEC je otvoren svim kulturama svijeta i autorima raznih epoha različitih kreativnih usmjerenja.

Muzej Armani Silos, također na Porta Genovi, otvoren istoga dana kad i EXPO, predstavlja četiri desetljeća umjetničkog djelovanja jednoga od najvećih svjetskih modnih dizajnera koji je potkraj 20. i u početku 21. stoljeća bitno utjecao na kulturu odijevanja u cijelome svijetu. Kralj mode Giorgio Armani, u obnovljenoj i redizajniranoj industrijskoj građevini iz 1950. godine, na četiri etaže ukupne površine 4500 četvornih metara, izložio je 600 odjevnih predmeta i 200 primjeraka modnog accessoiresa, a posjetiteljima je na raspolaganju i ekskluzivni restoran.

Novi projekti EXPO je inicirao gradnju novih hotela, novih linija podzemne željeznice, otvaranje novih restorana i ekskluzivnih trgovina. U zoni Porta Garibaldi otvoren je gastronomski hram Eataly Milano Smeraldo, u kojemu su na tri etaže predstavljene delicije svih talijanskih regija, pretežito malih i ekskluzivnih proizvođača.

Najviši dometi kulture stanovanja i suvremene arhitekture ostvareni su projektom Porta Nuova, u sklopu kojega su i dva nebodera, nazvani CROATIA AIRLINES

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Bosco Verticale i proglašeni najljepšima na planetu (arhitekti Stefano Boeri, Gianandrea Barreca i Giovanni LaVarrali), vile Porta Nova, poslovni centar, modne trgovine, restorani, čak i polje žitarica (campo di grano), parkovi i eko-vrtovi koje obrađuju i djeca.

Na području Naviglio Grande dovršen je projekt Nuova Darsena, s tržnicom, sajmom antikviteta, restoranima i izložbama na otvorenom.

Milano je oduvijek bio najvažnije europsko modno središte, koji je neodoljivo privlačio strastvene ljubitelje mode i kulture odijevanja.

Via Montenapoleone i Via Spiga najpoznatije su modne ulice u samom središtu Milana, s trgovinama najvećih modnih stilista današnjice, a u punom je sjaju i legendarni 10 Corso Como koji je osnovala Carla Sozzani, urednica talijanskog izdanja magazina Vogue, u kojemu su zastupljeni najpoznatiji svjetski modni i kozmetički brendovi.

Ljubitelji vrhunskog dizajna i svjetski proslavljenoga talijanskog namještaja neće propustiti Salone del Mobile u travnju 2016. godine (Milano Design Week), a trendsetteri će uživati u talijanskom klasiku Ora del aperitivo, piću koje se uza švedski stol od 17 do 21 sat nudi u gotovo svakom baru u središtu grada. Ili pak Vogue Fashion Night Out, noćne partyje u buticima od Porte Garibaldi do Via Montenapoleone, koji će se održavati u rujnu.

EXPO je, dakle, preobrazio Milano, ali što će se dogoditi s tim golemim prostorom nakon što je potkraj listopada 2015. Svjetska izložba zatvorena?

Postat će znanstveni campus Sveučilišta u Genovi (Università degli studi di Genova), u što će biti uloženo sto pedeset milijuna eura.

Još jedan dokaz da Milano simbolizira sve najbolje od Italije i da je uzor mnogim europskim i svjetskim metropolama. 

I

f urban terminology knows Rome as the Eternal City (Città Eterna), and if for many it is also the indisputable capital of the world, what about Milan, the centre of Lombardy, Italy’s most developed province? With over 4 million inhabitants in the wider urban area, and approximately 1,400,000 in the city proper, most of which has been classified as a monument, what is Milan for Italy and the world? Although we know that a metropolis such as Milan eludes an unambiguous definition, we will not be wrong to say that it is the most beautiful of the best of Italy, the promoter of everything which has recently earned this country European and global fame as the fifth global superpower.

The term superpower does not refer only to the booming economic development but also

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to the highest achievements in the culture of living, which is made up of important aspects such as the culture of dress, the culture of food, the culture of grooming, the elite culture of haute art, recreational and sport culture, the culture of communication, and the eternal strive for beauty and refinement which has been strongly present ever since the era of the Roman Empire.

The highest achievement of civilisation Milan has gathered all of that under a unique urban dome, so powerful that it delights millions of visitors from Europe and the world, as well as fellow Italians who consider it the true Italian metropolis and a confirmation of the thesis that an exemplarily organised city is the greatest civilizational achievement of human society.

In Milan, cultural and historical legacy intertwines harmoniously with modern achievements, while the city is a life academy of sorts which receives every newcomer or visitor with open arms, if they accept the standards of prescribed urban behaviour, and offers them the opportunity to contribute to the common wellbeing.

At every moment and every step of the way, Milan discreetly demonstrates its power which does not show a blatant desire for domination, but rather calls for respect for everything that illustrious predecessors created in the past and that talented contemporaries continue to create. This is why Milan is one of the European capitals not to be missed by anybody who wants to understand and experience Italy and also enjoy the highest achievements of civilisation. What delights the most is the potential of this megalopolis to meet the broadest of interests and requirements of even the most discerning visitor.

Milan attracts not only the financial and business elite, passionate shopaholics, dreamy aficionados of cultural and sporting events, pilgrims to its cultural monuments, spectacle lovers, refined gourmets, tourist nomads and millions of people with refined taste for all things beautiful, but rather all of them together.

The is precisely the perfect presentation of the country also known as Bel Paese, for which Henryk Sienkiewicz, a Polish novelist and the 1905 Nobel prize winner said: every man has two homelands - one is his own and the other is Italy.

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

The Second World Exhibition The city of Milan was founded some four hundred years before Christ by the Celts. It was conquered by the Romans two centuries later (in 293 during the reign of Emperor Diocletian, CROATIA AIRLINES

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Duomo di Milano, četvrta po veličina katedrala na svijetu, i Piazza Duomo svojom monumentalnošću simboliziraju povijesno značenje, ali i današnju moć Milana, središta najrazvijenije talijanske pokrajine Lombardije The monumentality of Duomo di Milano, the fourth largest cathedral in the world, and Piazza Duomo symbolises the historic importance as well as modern day power of Milan- the centre of the most developed Italian region of Lombardy.

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it was the capital of the Western Roman Empire), and this was followed by a succession of others who ruled over the city and the region of Lombardy during the long centuries of wars in unsettled Europe, starting with the famous Visconty and Sforza families, to the Spaniards, Austrians, Napoleon and German occupiers during World War Two. Each of those periods left deep marks in the historical development of Milan, especially when it comes to the cultural-historical and monumental heritage which is nowadays admired by millions of visitors from all over the world.

The first World Exhibition was held in Milan in 1906. Last year, 109 years after that spectacular event took place in the early 20th century, Milan was the venue of the second World Exhibition (EXPO). During the six months it was open, from April to November 2015, the exhibition was visited by over 20 million visitors. EXPO 2015 transformed Milan and marked a new era in the city’s development.

Thoroughly prepared for this spectacular event, Milan simply blossomed in many areas, and once again demonstrated the best of Italy.

Very few visitors of Milan will remain indifferent at the sight of the magnificent Milan Cathedral (Duomo di Milan). It is the fourth largest in the world and is now almost completely refurbished. It features a golden statue of Madonna on its highest belfry. The construction of the masterpiece of Gothic architecture lasted from the end of the 14th century to the end of the 16th century in the equally magnificent Piazza del Duomo. The cathedral roof, which commands a view of the entire city, is where eminent sculptors exhibit their works and where outdoor concerts are held.

The impressive Vittorio Emanuelle II Gallery, featuring the most prestigious stores and restaurant, connects Piazza del Duomo with the square dominated by one of the most beautiful theatres in the world, Teatro alla Scala, which was built between 1865 and 1877. On the days when opera and ballet premieres take place, all the restaurants in that part of the city remain open after the shows end so that theatre goers can have late dinner in a relaxed atmosphere and exchange their impressions of the show that they have just seen.

Even a longer stay in Milan would not suffice to explore all the most significant cultural attractions, such as the museum housed in the Sforza aristocratic family palace, the Milan Triennale, Pinacoteca di Brera and many other cultural treasures. Very few visitors will miss Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper, one of the 96

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greatest masterpieces in fine art history, which

clusive shops. The temple of gastronomy,

is located in the Dominican Church of Santa

Eataly Milano Smeraldo, was opened in Porta

Maria della Grazia.

Garibaldi. It covers three floors and offers delicacies from all the regions of Italy, and is

Revival of Culture

predominantly supplied by small and exclusive

EXPO 2015 prompted the opening of new

producers.

museums and the refurbishment of old ones.

The highest achievements of housing culture

The Fondazione Prada, for example, is a new

and modern architecture are embodied in the

museum complex in the south part of Milan

project Porta Nuova. The project includes two

(Largo Isarco). It occupies 19,000 square

high rise buildings known as Bosco Verticale

metres of a former distillery dating back to

(architects Stefano Boeri, Gianandrea Barreca

1910. Designed by famous architect Rem

and Giovanni LaVarrali), which have been

Koolhaas and OMA studio, it is a spectacular

declared the most beautiful on the planet, as

blend of old industrial heritage and modern

well as the residences Le Ville di Porta Nuova,

architecture. The former industrial facility now

a business centre, shops, restaurants, and

benefits from three additional new structures,

even a grain field (campo di grano), parks

called Podium, Cinema and Torre.

and ecological gardens where children can

Pirelli’s HangarBicocca, with a footprint of

try their hand at gardening.

15,000 square metres, is one of Europe’s

The project Nuova Darsena, featuring a

largest exhibition areas dedicated to con-

market, an antique fair, restaurant and open

temporary art. It is visited by hundreds

air exhibitions, was completed in the Naviglio

of thousands of people from all over the

Grande neighbourhood.

world. Once again, by enabling multicultural

Milan has always been the most important

artistic dialogue and affirming the highest

European centre of fashion, and as such it

achievements in contemporary art, Pirelli

has attracted passionate lovers of fashion and

C

has confirmed its reputation as a reputable

culture with a magnetic force. Via Montena-

M

corporation and a powerful promoter and

poleone and Via Spiga are the best known

Y

patron of contemporary art.

fashion streets in the very centre of Milan, and

The MUDEC Museum (Museo delle Culture)

they are aligned with the flagship stores of the

at Porta Genova, which was opened in 1990,

greatest fashion designers of the day. No less

has been redesigned and given a new con-

splendid is the legendary 10 Corso Como,

ceptual direction. New spaces have been

which Carla Sozzani, the editor-in-chief of the

created in an old industrial building to house

Italian edition of Vogue magazine, conceived

exhibitions by a variety of authors and various

as a gathering place for the best known global

artistic concepts, ranging from Paul Gaugin

fashion and cosmetic brands.

and Joan Miro to the children’s icon Barbie.

Lovers of top design and globally famous

MUDEC’s doors are opened to all the cultures

Italian furniture will not miss the Salone del

of the world and authors spanning various

Mobile in April of 2016 (Milano Design Week),

eras and creative directions.

while trendsetters will enjoy the Italian clas-

Armani Silos, another museum at Porta Gen-

sic Ora del Aperitivo, when a drink is offered

ova, opened the same day as the EXPO itself.

by nearly every downtown bar between 5

It showcases four decades of artistic activity

p.m. and 9 p.m. as the accompaniment to a

of one of the biggest names in the world of

buffet dinner. The Vogue Fashion Night Out

fashion design who made quite an impact on

and the night parties in boutiques from Porte

the global dress culture in the late 20th and the

Garibaldi to Via Montenapoleone will take

early 21 century. The king of fashion, Giorgio

place in September.

Armani, has exhibited 600 pieces of clothing

Thus, EXPO has transformed Milan, but what

and 200 items of fashion accessories in the

is going to happen to this huge space now

exhibition area which spreads over four floors

that the World Exhibition closed in late 2015?

covering a footprint of 4,500 square metres,

It will become the scientific campus of the

and it also offers an exclusive restaurant for

University of Genoa (Università degli studi

the patrons.

di Genova), after an additional investment of

st

150 million euro.

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CROATIA AIRLINES

New projects

This is yet more proof that Milan symbolises

EXPO has prompted the construction of

the best of Italy and that it serves as an ex-

new hotels and new metro lines, as well

ample to many European and global metropo-

as the opening of new restaurants and ex-

lises.

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Uživajte u visokoj modi u Milanu, osjetite zlatni Prag, doživite Bijele noći u carskom Sankt Peterburgu ili se opustite uz melodije opojnoga fada u Lisabonu.

Odaberite svoju destinaciju i otputujte!

Direktni letovi iz Zagreba za: - Prag i Milano već od 129 EUR - Lisabon i Sankt Peterburg već od 199 EUR Cijene se odnose na aviokarte za povratne letove Croatia Airlinesa. Aviokarte za putovanja iz Dubrovnika, Pule, Splita i Zadra, preko Zagreba, mogu se kupiti po cijeni od 159 EUR za Milano i Prag, te po cijeni od 229 EUR za Sankt Peterburg i Lisabon.

072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555

croatiaairlines.hr U cijenu su uključene pristojbe zračnih luka i naknada za izdavanje zrakoplovne karte (TSC) za kupnju na www.croatiaairlines.hr i m.croatiaairlines.hr

Moja aviokompanija.

CROATIA AIRLINES

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OTPUTUJTE CROATIA AIRLINESOM U MILANO Milano je moderan i najveći grad sjeverne Italije.

Središte je najrazvijenije talijanske pokrajine Lombardije, u kojemu živi oko 1,400.000 stanovnika, a na širem gradskom području, više od 4,000.000. Najpoznatiji je po automobilskoj i modnoj industriji. EXPO 2015. pokrenuo je novu epohu u razvoju toga fascinantnoga grada.

TURISTIČKE ZANIMLJIVOSTI Ne propustite razgledati Duomo, grandioznu milansku katedralu iz 14.st. Na najvišem tornju nalazi se zlatna statua Madonne, zaštitnice grada. Danas je Duomo, na istoimenoj Piazzi del Duomo, simbol grada.

Nezaobilazna je i operna kuća Teatro alla Scala iz 19. st., koja njeguje tradicionalnu operu.

Ne propustite pogledati Posljednju večeru Leonarda da Vincija u dominikanskoj crkvi Santa Maria delle Grazije, remek-djelo svjetske likovne umjetnosti... ŠTO KUPOVATI Milano je središte visoke mode, Armanija i Versacea, u kojemu će oni dubljeg džepa uživati. Via Montenapoleone i Via Spiga najpoznatije su modne ulice u središtu Milana.

Odjeću, cipele i modne dodatke po povoljnijim cijenama pronaći ćete u outlet trgovinama izvan povijesnog središta grada - u Corso Buenos Aires, Corso Vercelli i Corso XXII Marzo. ŠTO JESTI I PITI Najbolje je potražiti tipičan milanski restoran i kušati npr. rižoto sa šafranom (risotto giallo) ili pak tradicionalni milanski teleći kotlet (cotoletta).

Kušajte različitu punjenu tjesteninu (panzerotti), koja je čest izbor za dobar ručak u Milanu.

Milano je poznat i po pivnicama (birrifici), stoga uživajte u nefiltriranom pivu osebujnog okusa.

TURISTIČKE INFORMACIJE Via Marconi 1, tel. 02 7252 4301.

E-mail: info@milanoinfotourist.com Web stranica: www.milanoinfoturist.com DOGAĐANJA U MILANU Milano Cortili Aperti, otvorene privatne rezidencije svibanj / središte grada Festa del Naviglio, folklorna glazba, ples i umjetnost lipanj / ulice blizu zamka Naviglio Milano d’Estate (Milansko ljeto), ljetna zabava lipanj - kolovoz / Parco Sempione Festa Latino-Americano srpanj - kolovoz / Forum di Assago Formula 1 Grand Prix rujan / Monza Milanovendemoda, tjedan mode listopad / Fiera i grad Fiera dei Libri Antiquati (sajam antikvitetnih knjiga) listopad / Palazzo del Ragione

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Croatia Airlines svojim zrakoplovima povezuje Hrvatsku s Milanom, u razdoblju od 20. 5. do 28. 10. 2016., svaki utorak, petak i nedjelju.

Croatia Airlines aircraft connect Croatia with Milan on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays, from 20. 5. to 28. 10. 2016.

Take a trip to Milan with Croatia Airlines Milan is a modern city and the largest one in northern Italy. It is the centre of the most developed Italian region, Lombardy. Milan has about 1.4 million inhabitants, and the wider city area has more than 4 million. It is best known for its automotive and fashion industries. EXPO 2015 launched a new era in the development of this fascinating city.

What to eat and drink It is best to look for a typical Milanese restaurant and try, for example, risotto with saffron (risotto giallo) or traditional Milanese veal chops (cotoletta).

Try different stuffed pastas (panzerotti), which is a common choice for a good lunch in Milan.

Milan is known for its beer halls (birrifici), where you can enjoy unfiltered beer of a distinctive taste.

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS Do not miss the tour of the Duomo, Milan’s grandiose cathedral from the 14th century. Atop the highest tower is a golden statue of Madonna, the patron of the city. Today, the Duomo, located on Piazza del Duomo, is the symbol of the city.

Another not-to-miss sight is the opera house Teatro alla Scala from the 19 th century which nurtures traditional opera.

Do not miss seeing The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci in the Dominican Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, a masterpiece of world art...

TOURIST INFORMATION

WHAT TO BUY Milan is the centre of high fashion, Armani and Versace, where visitors with deep pockets will certainly enjoy shopping. Via Montenapoleone and Via Spiga are the best known fashion streets in the very centre of Milan. Clothing, shoes and fashion accessories at affordable prices can be found at outlet stores outside the historical town centre - in Corso Buenos Aires, Corso Vercelli and Corso XXII Marzo.

Milano d’Estate (Milan Summer), summer festival June-August / Parco Sempione

Via Marconi 1, Phone: 02 7252 4301 E-mail: info@milanoinfotourist.com Web page: www.milanoinfoturist.com EVENTS IN MILAN Milan Cortili Aperti, private residences open to the public May / city centre Festa del Naviglio, folk music, dance and art June / the streets near Naviglio canal

Festa Latino-Americano July-August / Forum di Assago Formula 1 Grand Prix September / Monza Milanovendemoda, fashion week October / Fiera and the city Fiera dei Libri Antiquati (antique books fair) October / Palazzo del Ragione

Treasure every moment Discover the irresistible charm of southern Croatia. Whether travelling on business or pleasure, bring home unforgettable memories from our hotel, the newest gem at spectacular Dubrovnik Riviera.

Contact us at: sales@sheratondubrovnikriviera.com or call us: +385 20 484 393

Š2015 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Sheraton and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

For full terms and conditions, visit sheraton.com/zagreb

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OTPUTUJTE CROATIA AIRLINESOM U LISABON Lisabon, nazvan Kraljicom mora, jedna je od najljepših europskih prijestolnica. Glavni grad Portugala smjestio se na ušću rijeke Tejo, a u njemu danas živi oko 550.000 stanovnika.

Razvio se u srednjem vijeku u doba otkrića, kad su Portugalci vladali velikim dijelom svijeta.

TURISTIČKE ZANIMLJIVOSTI Zanimljiv način upoznavanja grada na sedam brežuljaka, poput Istanbula i Rima, jest provozati se starinskim žutim tramvajem broj 28, koji će vam ispričati pravu lisabonsku priču.

Lisabon je grad bogate pomorske povijesti koja se danas najbolje odražava u Belému.

Stoga, posjetite Belém, gdje se uz istoimeni toranj, osobito djelo manuelske arhitekture, nalazi i Spomenik otkrićima u čast svima koji su ucrtavali nove pomorske trgovačke putove, i luku, iz koje je poznati pomorac i istraživač Vasco da Gama isplovio. ŠTO KUPOVATI U Portugalu se može vrlo povoljno kupiti keramika, zlatni i srebrni nakit, a posebice filigran.

Glavna je trgovačka ulica Av. Liberdade, a shopping centri Alvalade, Amoreiras i Olivais. ŠTO JESTI I PITI U restoranima kušajte riblje specijalitete poput bakalara pripravljenog na različite načine i nezaobilazan porto, dakako, uz opojne melodije fada.

Popularni su specijaliteti puževi i zečetina. Lisabon je poznat po kolačima, npr. pastel de nata, košaricama s kremom.

INFORMACIJE ZA TURISTE Lisabonski Turističko-informativni centar Palacio Foz, Praca dos Restauradores Tel. 00351 213 463314 Web stranica: www.visitlisboa.com DOGAĐANJA U LISABONU Borbe s bikovima svibanj-rujan / Campo Pequeno Estoril Jazz Festival lipanj-srpanj / Estoril Dan državnosti 10. lipnja / cijeli grad Festas dos Santos Populares (Festival svetaca) lipanj / cijeli grad / Avenida de Liberdade - na dan otvorenja Festas da Lisboa (Lisabonski festival), kulturna događanja u cijelom gradu lipanj / različite lokacije Sintra, glazbeni festival, klasični koncerti i ples lipanj-rujan / Sintra Sintra, baletni festivali srpanj-kolovoz / Sintra Estoril Open, golfski turnir listopad / Estoril ModaLisboa Fashion Show listopad / Convento do Beato

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Croatia Airlines svojim zrakoplovima povezuje Hrvatsku s Lisabonom, u razdoblju od 20. 5. do 28. 10. 2016., svaki ponedjeljak, srijedu i petak.

Croatia Airlines aircraft connect Croatia with Lisbon on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, from 20. 5. to 28. 10. 2016.

FLY CROATIA AIRLINES TO LISBON Lisbon, dubbed the Queen of the Sea, is one of the most beautiful European capitals. The Portuguese capital is located on the estuary of the Tejo River and it is home to approximately 550 thousand people.

It developed in the Middle Ages during the period of discoveries, when the Portuguese ruled much.

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS An interesting way to get to know this city on seven hills, just like Istanbul and Rome, is to take a ride on an old fashioned yellow tram, number 28, which will show you the true story of Lisbon.

Lisbon is a city with a rich naval history, which is nowadays best reflected in Belém.

Therefore, visit Belém, which features a tower of the same name - an exquisite work of Manueline architecture, the Monument to the Discoveries honouring everyone who mapped out new seafaring and trading routes, and a port from which the famous seaman and explorer Vasco de Gama set sail. Pay attention to the characteristic ceramic facades…

WHAT TO BUY In Portugal, one can purchase inexpensive ceramics, gold and silver jewellery, and especially filigree. The main shopping street is Av. Liberdade, while the main shopping centres are Alvalade, Amoreiras and Olivais.

WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK When visiting restaurants, try fish specialties such as cod prepared in various ways, as well as the unavoidable port wine while enjoying the intoxicating melodies of Fado.

Popular specialties are snails and rabbit meat.

Lisbon is known for pastel de nata sweets, baskets with cream…

TOURIST INFORMATION Lisbon Tourist Info Centre Palacio Foz, Praca dos Restauradores Tel.: 00351 213 463314 Web page: www.visitlisboa.com EVENTS IN LISBON Bull fights May-September / Campo Pequeno Estoril Jazz Festival June-July / Estoril National Day June 10th / entire city Festas dos Santos Populares (Saints’ Festival) June / entire city, Avenida de Liberdade opening day Festas da Lisboa (Lisbon Festival), cultural events around the city June / various locations Sintra Music Festival, classical concerts and dance June-September / Sintra Sintra Ballet Festivals July-August / Sintra Estoril Open, golf tournament October / Estoril ModaLisboa Fashion Show October / Convento do Beato

OTPUTUJTE CROATIA AIRLINESOM U PRAG Mnogo je razloga za vaš posjet jedinstvenom gradu Pragu, prijestolnici Češke Republike.

Grad leži u Češkoj kotlini na rijeci Vltavi, a danas u njemu živi oko 1,200.000 stanovnika. Prag se intenzivno razvio u zlatnom razdoblju u 14. stoljeću i stoga se s punim pravom danas naziva Zlatnim gradom.

TURISTIČKE ZANIMLJIVOSTI Najpoznatije su znamenitosti iz zlatnog razdoblja kralja Karla IV. te su postale simbolima Praga.

Prošetajte Starogradskim trgom (Staro-meˇstské námeˇ stí), najstarijim i najljepšim u povijesnoj jezgri grada, iz kojega se razvio Stari grad, ili pak Václavskim námeˇ stíma, središtem Novoga grada. Kročite Karlovim mostom, grandioznim mostom koji povezuje Stari grad s drugom obalom Vltave - Malom Stranom... ŠTO KUPOVATI Češki kristal, porculan, staklo i keramika, izvrsne su kvalitete i modernog dizajna, a cijene su povoljne. Baltički jantar i češki granat također.

Tipični su suveniri Becherovka - poznata češka rakija, Oplatky- slatkiš; Marioneta- lutka na koncu, Babuška - više lutkica u najvećoj, Krtek - lik iz češkog crtanog filma... ŠTO JESTI I PITI U središtu grada naići ćete na restorane i tradicionalne pivnice, koje nude dnevne jelovnike u vrijeme ručka (11,30-14,30 h) po povoljnim cijenama. U pivnicama kušajte kobasice i pivo, a u restoranima tradicionalna jela poput vičkove.

TURISTIČKE INFORMACIJE Tel. 12444 E-mail - tourinfo@pis.cz Web stranica - www.prague-info.cz DOGAĐANJA U PRAGU Khamoro, festival romske kulture kraj svibnja / različite lokacije Ples u Pragu lipanj /različite lokacije Praška jesen sredina rujna / različite lokacije Burcák, degustacija mošta kraj rujna - početak listopada

Vokaliza International Jazz Festival kraj listopada / Lucerna Music Bar

Croatia Airlines svojim zrakoplovima povezuje Hrvatsku s Pragom, u razdoblju od 21. 5. do 29. 10. 2016., svaki utorak, četvrtak, subotu i nedjelju.

Croatia Airlines aircraft connect Croatia with Prague on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays, from 21. 5. to 29. 10. 2016 FLY CROATIA AIRLINES TO PRAGUE

WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK

There are many reasons for you to visit the unique city of Prague, the capital city of the Czech Republic. The city is situated in the Czech valley on the Vltava River, and it is home to approximately 1.2 million people. Prague developed intensively during the golden period of the 14th century, so it is nowadays justifiably referred to as the Golden City.

I n th e c i t y c e ntre a re re s t a u r a nts a n d traditional breweries which offer daily menus during lunch hours (11.30 a.m. - 2.30 p.m.) at ver y af fordable prices. Tr y sausages and beer in the breweries, and traditional dishes such as Svičkova in the restaurants.

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS The best known landmarks originated from the golden period of King Charles IV, and they have become the symbols of Prague.

Have a stroll along Old Town Square (Staromeˇ stské námeˇ stí), the oldest and most beautiful in the historic city centre, from which the Old Town developed; or Václavske Námeˇ stí (Wenceslas Square), the centre of New Town.

Cross the grandiose Charles Bridge that connects the Old Town with the other bank of the Vltava River - Lesser Quarter (Mala Strana)...

WHAT TO BUY Czech crystal, porcelain, glass and ceramics are of excellent quality and modern design, while prices are affordable; Baltic amber and Czech garnet as well.

Typical souvenirs are Becherovka - a well known Czech spirit, Oplatky - a sweet, a Marionette - doll, a Babushka - several dolls in one largest one, Krtek - a character from a Czech cartoon…

TOURIST INFORMATION Tel. 12444 E-mail - tourinfo@pis.cz Web page - www.prague-info.cz EVENTS IN PRAGUE Khamoro, a festival of Romani culture early May / various locations Dance Prague June / various locations Prague Autumn mid-September / various locations Burcák, must tasting late September - early October Vokaliza International Jazz Festival late October / Lucerna Music Bar

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OTPUTUJTE CROATIA AIRLINESOM U SANKT PETERBURG

Sankt Peterburg je grad koji će vas osvojiti nezaboravnom ljepotom i velikim postignućima u umjetnosti, kulturi, glazbi i znanosti. Nalazi se na zapadu Ruske Federacije te je drugi najveći grad te države. Grad se smjestio na rijeci Nevi, a danas u njemu živi oko 4,600.000 stanovnika.

Grad je osnovao Petar I. Veliki u početku 18. st. te je po njemu nazvan. Središte toga relativno mladoga grada, koji nazivaju i Venecijom sjevera, pripada u Unescovu svjetsku baštinu.

TURISTIČKE ZANIMLJIVOSTI Ermitaž je jedan od najvećih i najznačajnijih muzeja na svijetu. Sastoji se od šest građevina koje u stalnom postavu imaju više od tri milijuna umjetnina, među kojima su najpoznatija Fabergeova jaja s kraja 19. st., izrađena za pripadnike carske obitelji. Zimski dvorac, koji je bio carska rezidencija, najpoznatiji je dio muzeja.

U poznatome Marijinskom kazalištu možete pogledati najbolje baletne predstave.

Sankt Peterburg otpočetka je zamišljen kao veličanstvena prijestolnica te je u skladu s time i građen. ŠTO KUPOVATI Na Nevskom prospektu, unutar Gostinjeva dvora, prodaje se ponajviše odjeća, alkoholna pića i elektronika. Također na Nevskom prospektu nalazi se Jelisejev, poznat po osobitoj arhitekturi i delikatesama koje nudi: votki, kavijaru te čokoladama i čajevima. ŠTO JESTI I PITI Klasičan ruski obrok sastoji se od salate (to su razne vrste kuhanog povrća i mesa u umaku od majoneze), neke od juha (preporučuju riblju juhu) te mesnoga glavnog jela. Ovo zadnje možete zamijeniti i nekim od fantastičnih mesnih ili ribljih variva (npr.soljankom). Vrijedi kušati palačinke s kiselim vrhnjem i kavijarom. Omiljena su ruska pića pivo i votka.

TURISTIČKE INFORMACIJE Telefon +7 812 310-22-31 Adresa: Sadovaya St, 14, St Petersburg Web stranica: www.visit-petersburg.ru DOGAĐANJA U SANKT PETERBURGU Dan grada, proslava s vatrometom i koncertima 27. svibnja / središte grada Svečano otvorenje i zatvaranje fontana u Peterhofu svibanj / rujan Sanktpeterburški festival gavuna svibanj / na obali zaljeva Grimizna jedra, parada brodova lipanj / rijeka Neva Peterburški pivski festival, početak lipnja, parada niz Nevski prospekt i vatromet, lipanj / središte grada Festival svih festivala, međunarodni filmski festival lipanj / u kinima širom grada Bijele noći lipanj-srpanj / širom grada Dan ratne mornarice srpanj / na rijeci Nevi Kazališni festival baltičkih zemalja listopad / gradska kazališta

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Croatia Airlines svojim zrakoplovima povezuje Hrvatsku sa Sankt Peterburgom, u razdoblju od 2. 6. do 23. 10. 2016., svaki četvrtak i nedjelju.

Croatia Airlines aircraft connect Croatia with St. Petersburg on Thursdays and Sundays, from 2. 6. to 23. 10. 2016.

TRAVEL WITH CROATIA AIRLINES TO SAINT PETERSBURG

Saint Petersburg is a city that will win you over with its unforgettable beauty and great achievements in art, culture, music and science. It is located in the western part of the Russian Federation and it is its second largest city. The city lies on the Neva River, with a population of around 4.6 million people. The city was named after its founder, Tsar Peter the Great, who established it in the early 18th century. The centre of this relatively young city, which some call the Venice of the North, is listed as part of UNESCO World Heritage.

TOURIST ATTRACTIONS The Hermitage is one of the largest and most significant museums in the world. It consists of six buildings and its permanent holdings include more than three million works of art. Some of the best known pieces are the Faberge eggs, dating back to the late 19th century, and which were made for members of the royal family. The Winter Palace, which was the royal residence, is the most famous part of the museum.

The renowned Mariinsky Theatre features some of the best ballet performances in the world.

Saint Petersburg was originally envisioned as a magnificent capital, and it was constructed accordingly.

WHAT TO BUY On Nevsky Prospect, within Gostinyi Dvor, are mostly stores that sell clothes, alcoholic drinks and electronics. Nevsky Prospect is also the location of Eliseyev Emporium, famous for its exquisite architecture and the delicacies it offers: vodka, caviar, chocolate and tea.

WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK A typical Russian meal consists of a salad (various types of cooked vegetables and meat in mayonnaise sauce), a soup (I recommend fish soup), and a main course featuring meat.

The latter can be substituted by one of the fantastic meat or fish stews, such as solyanka.

Also worth trying are pancakes with sour cream and caviar. The preferred drinks in Russia are beer and vodka.

TOURIST INFORMATION Phone: +7 812 310-22-31 Address: Sadovaya St. 14, St. Petersburg EVENTS IN SAINT PETERSBURG Day of the City, a celebration with fireworks and concerts May 27th / city centre The ceremonial opening and closing of the fountains in Peterhof May / September The Saint Petersburg’s Smelt Festival May / on the shore of the Gulf (of Finland) Scarlet Sails, ship parade June / Neva River The Petersburg Beer Festival, early June, a parade along Nevsky Prospect and fireworks June / city centre The Festival of Festivals, international film festival June / cinemas around the city White Nights June-July / locations around the city Navy Day July / Neva River Theatre Festival of Baltic States October / city theatres

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Kontinentalna Hrvatska Inland Croatia

Jutro nad Starom Kapelom Morning in Stara Kapela

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Piπe/By Dubravka Belas

Fotografije/Photos Romeo Ibrišević

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N

Stara Kapela priča je o uspjehu, koja govori da je sve moguće kad ste složni, kad nešto strasno želite, imate jasan cilj pred sobom i spremni ste za njega sve učiniti. Zbog ljubavi prema nasljeđu, duhu prošlih vremena, sjaju i toplini ognjišta naših predaka, dogodilo se ovo malo, lijepo čudo u Slavoniji.

Stara Kapela is a story of success, which shows that everything is possible when people get together, when they really want something and have a clear goal in front of them, and are prepared to do anything to achieve it.

This small miracle in Slavonia was made possible thanks to the love of heritage, the spirit of times past and the glow and warmth of our ancestors’ fireplaces.

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ama koji smo rođeni u gradu i poznajemo samo gradski život, selo je velika zagonetka. Unatoč romantičnom ugođaju na idiličnim sličicama, prečesto ga zamišljamo kao pusto, izolirano, možda i neprivlačno mjesto - njive razmočene kišom, blatne ceste, mirisi staje ili kokošinjaca na koje nismo navikli, mnogo letećih kukaca ili nečega još gorega - puzavoga, potencijalno opasnoga. Život mnogo teži od onoga koji poznajemo, priključeni na toplovodne mreže, pa se za zimu ne trebamo posebno pripremati.

Ovdje se zimi ne razjure stotine grtalica koje noću od snijega čiste ceste i prilaze, da biste vi na vrijeme ujutro mogli stići u neki pregrijan ured čiji se prozori nikad ne otvaraju i odsjediti ondje sate zureći, gotovo obnevidjeli, u svijetleće zaslone. Gdje nema pošte, ljekarnice, pekarnice ili trafike na svakome uglu, a možda i nema uglova.

Pa ipak, na selu je korijenje života, čak i nama, koji nemamo više nikoga da nam usadi svijest o tome, koji na selu nemamo rodbinu kod koje bismo ljetovali ili odlazili k njoj potkraj tjedna, vraćajući se s košaricama punima mirisnih i sočnih plodova. Selo je mnogo više od predrasuda i mentalnih ograničenja naših skučenih urbanih egzistencija.

Kažu da je život koji je neprekidno udaljen od sela jednostavno oblik spore smrti. Govore da sunce sjajnije sija na selu gdje je zrak oštar od čistoće, a ljudi cjelovitiji i smireniji. Da sporiji i jednostavniji protok vremena ondje čini našu svrhu vidljivijom, možda čak opipljivom. Možda nikad nismo ni upoznali, ili smo uspjeli zaboraviti, miris domaćeg kruha koji se iskrada iz željeznih vratnica seljačkih peći i govori nam: ovo je dom, sada ste, napokon, kod kuće.

Slatki miris dima iz dimnjaka, sočne trave pod nogama, zavodljiv parfem zrelih jabuka i dunja na policama ormara, opojan bosiljka na otvorenim prozorima. Ovdje shvatite da krijesnice i leptiri nisu izumrle vrste, iznenade vas fazanke koje prilaze posve blizu kućama i vjeverice koje vam drsko kradu tek očišćene orahe. Ovdje do kućnog praga dolaze ljupki, bučni ježevi, a lastavice lijepe svoja gnijezda od blata upravo pod vašom strehom. Ali ono što je najdragocjenije, to je mir. Mir prirode oko vas, zarazan, preplavljujući, smirenost kojom utažujete žeđ koje niste bili ni svjesni, one nezasitne gradske potrage za užitkom, onog sve grozničavijeg dokazivanja, sve površnije i zamornije potrage za vanjskim sjajem.

Mi znamo gdje ćete pronaći taj mir, gdje je točno to mjesto u kojemu vas može probuditi samo cvrkut ptica ili poneki pijetao, gdje onu raskošnu tišinu složenu od zvukova prirode, onako kako je bijela ne-boja složena od svih duginih boja, neće remetiti baš ništa, ni buka

prometa, niti zvonjava mobitela. Jednostavno zato, jer ondje nema ni prometa niti signala za mobitele. Napokon osluhnuti i čuti samoga sebe i svoje misli, možete u selu koje se zove Stara Kapela, ubavome slavonskome mjestašcu u Brodsko-posavskoj županiji, u okrilju Požeške gore, na pola puta između Nove Gradiške i Slavonskoga Broda, prikladno udaljenome od poplavnih područja Save i od većih prometnica.

Prošlost toga malog mjesta duga je i burna, kako to već biva u pograničnim krajevima.

U davnu 1275. godinu datira spomen Grada Potoka, utvrde u vlasništvu plemića Gorjanskih, oko koje se oblikuje selo. U 15. i 16. stoljeću u ovaj kraj provaljuju turski osvajači i nastupa slabije istraženo, ali zacijelo dugo i teško razdoblje za čitavu Posavinu - dio se ljudi odvodio u roblje i plijenila se stoka. Oni koji ostaju, bave se poljoprivredom, ali prisiljeni su i sudjelovati u ratovima koje su vodili Turci.

Od carske vojske nije, nakon sklopljenoga Sramnog mira s Osmanlijama, bilo mnogo koristi, pa je takvo stanje potrajalo sve do oružane narodne pobune koju predvodi fra Luka Ibrišimović potkraj 17. stoljeća, kojom se Turci napokon protjeruju. Selo tada postaje dijelom Vojne granice. Koliko je graničarski režim bio potreban, potvrđuju povremeni pljačkaški i rušilački upadi Turaka pa je tako i u Staroj Kapeli 1758. godine srušena kapelica sv. Marka. Dvije godine poslije, prema dekretu carice Marije Terezije i strogim prostornim regulama koje naseljima propisuju pravilni smještaj kuća i ujednačenost gradnje, Stara se Kapela s obronaka Požeške gore morala spustiti u dolinu. Sadašnja kapelica posvećena Gospodinovom Uzašašću sagrađena je 1860. godine, i diči se veoma vrijednom oltarnom slikom. Otprilike u to vrijeme na snagu stupaju i nove Osnove za građevinski red trgovišta i sela u Kraljevini Hrvatskoj i Slavoniji, koje se odnose i na Staru Kapelu. Propisani su bili oblici i veličina okućnice, udaljenost između kuća, izgled krovova i dimnjaka, visina ograde. Dok je s jedne strane ulaz u požešku kotlinu čuvao Grad Potok, s druge strane, kod Drenovca, stražarila je još dobro očuvana kapela sv. Dmitra, koja pripada nizu slavonskih, graničarskih crkava s izrazitim fortifikacijskim

Uporabni predmeti nekadašnjih domaćinstava Household items used in the past CROATIA AIRLINES

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elementima - ukratko, to je crkva-tvrđava s ranogotičkom obrambenom kulom. Podignuta uz gradinu utvrde koju je nekoć davno srušio Sulejmanov Ibrahim-paša, na njoj zapažamo nekoliko graditeljskih faza. Sama crkva s tornjem i poligonalnim svetištem u gotičkom je slogu, u drugoj je fazi, za turske okupacije, dozidana kula nad svetištem, a treća pripada baroku. Na zidu kapele osam je glagoljskih grafita iz, pretpostavlja se, 13. stoljeća, a na kamenu ugrađenome u obrambenu kulu razabiru se prethistorijski crteži jelena.

Dvadeseto stoljeće doba je velikih svjetskih ratova i jednoga osobito važnoga za Slavoniju i čitavu Hrvatsku - Domovinskoga rata. Poslije mučnih ratnih godina ostala je devastirana zemlja, neka su sela potpuno spaljena, imovina prognanog hrvatskog stanovništva opljačkana, s mnogo razorenih kuća, oštećenom infrastrukturom i gospodarstvom na koljenima.

Takvo stanje svakako nije išlo u prilog ni Staroj Kapeli, čiji se broj stanovnika kontinuirano smanjivao još od 1945. kad je popisano 170 stanovnika.

Malo se selo godinama zapuštalo, od teškog je seljačkog života odustajalo sve više ljudi, a rudnik mrkog ugljena na čije se površinske žile još može naići u okolnim šumama, zatvoren je 1960. godine. Svrsi je prestala služiti i uskotračna željeznica do rudnika. Bio je to dodatni udarac opstanku sela, koje danas ima tek 13 stanovnika, redom poznije dobi.

Pa ipak, dogodilo se nešto što je selu posljednjih godina donijelo pravi preporod. Skupina entuzijasta, predvođena novokapelskim liječnikom Antunom Tucićem, nije mogla zaboraviti i prepustiti daljnjem propadanju svoj rodni kraj.

Odlučili su povesti bitku za obnovu i očuvanje Stare Kapele, pobrinuti se za spas njegove tradicionalne kulture i napravili čudo - traženo, osobito izvan granica Hrvatske, jedinstveno slavonsko turističko odredište. Radi obnove i zaštite izvornoga slavonskog sela, očuvanja autohtonih poljoprivrednih kultura, uzgoja zdrave hrane i skrbi za etnološko blago, udruga Eko-etno selo Stara Kapela revitalizirala je selo poštujući tradicionalnu slavonsku arhitekturu, običaje i kulturu življenja i tako sačuvala komadić Slavonije kakva je nekad bila, za one koji dolaze. I ne samo za budućnost.

Polurazrušeno selo svojih predaka, zaraslo u korov, bez ikakve perspektive, u kratko su vrijeme, uz pomoć vlastitog novca, donacija lokalnih tvrtki, turističke zajednice, županije, ministarstava turizma i poljoprivrede, pretvorili u poželjno selo-hotel za sve one s početka ove priče, koji traže kratki predah u miru, sigurnosti i toplini nekadašnjeg načina života. Za one koji preferiraju aktivniji odmor, u ponudi su programi jahanja, vožnje brdskim biciklističkim 110

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stazama, nordijsko hodanje, trčanje, šetnje poučnim stazama s upoznavanjem biljnoga i životinjskog bogatstva ovoga kraja. Dakako, treba spomenuti i razne kulturne priredbe te bogatu gastronomsku ponudu. Stara Kapela, to nekad zaboravljeno, umrtvljeno naselje, prošle je godine na svoja četiri imanja i tridesetak postelja ostvarilo tisuću noćenja, uglavnom stranih gostiju. Tu osobitu ponudu Europska je udruga turističkih novinara službeno nagradila priznanjem za uspješan razvoj seoskog turizma.

Taj je pothvat trajao više od deset godina; prve su se godine krčili tereni i čistio okoliš, rješavali imovinski pravni odnosi. Građevinske su parcele kupovali istomišljenici, zaljubljenici u tradicijske vrijednosti; prikupljao se namještaj - starinski kreveti, ormari, stolovi i stolci, uporabni predmeti za opremanje dvadesetak kuća, od seljačkih škrinja, starih tkanina, čipki za zastore i posteljinu, do narodnih nošnji. Ubrzo je sagrađena 13 kilometara duga staza za pješake i bicikle, širine od tri metra, s nekoliko odmorišta i velikim vidikovcima - replikama starih čardaka, obilježjima vojne granice prema Otomanskom Carstvu. Čardaci su visoki šest metara, a na njih istodobno stane tridesetak ljudi kojima odatle puca veličanstven pogled na sve četiri strane svijeta. U skladu s tradicijom postavljena je i javna rasvjeta na starinskim kandelabrima od slavonskih greda, sa skrivenim električnim žaruljama, s kojih vise fenjeri na petrolej.

Na stazi su raspoređeni putokazi, ploče s informacijama, stolovi za piknik, oznake s imenima, slikama i opisom biljaka, gljiva, ptica, divljači - prava mala škola u prirodi za đake.

Označeno je više nego 120 biljnih vrsta, te više od 80 vrsta ptica i divljači, šezdeset vrsta gljiva s opisima i osnovnim podacima o jestivosti, a na rasvjetnim stupovima nalaze se natpisi s odabranim, antologijskim stihovima hrvatske poezije, vezanima uza selo i Slavoniju, poput onih pjesnika Cesarića i Tadijanovića.

Pazilo se na svaki detalj pa su se i žičane ograde imanja i okućnica zamijenile tradicionalnim drvenim tarabama, a kuće su obnovljene ili novosagrađene korištenjem isključivo starih materijala, staroga crijepa, cigle i drvene građe. Pročelja su također uređena i obojena po starinsku, uza savjete konzervatora, s tradicionalnim ukrasima i štukaturama. Uređeno je mjesno središte s đermom, napravom za vađenje vode iz bunara s koritom, kojim se nekad ponosilo svako dvorište, uz nekoliko zajedničkih koje bi za napajanje stoke rabilo cijelo selo. Po broju đerama moglo se zaključiti i bogatstvo stočnog fonda pojedinih sela. U središtu mjesta sagrađena je i sjenica, postavljena ljuljačka i drveni vrtuljak, a sve je,

Pogled na Staru Kapelu s glavnom cestom

naravno, dotjerano cvijećem iz tradicijskih vrtova. Zajedničke su površine uredne, trava je na njima uvijek pokošene, pa selo ostavlja ne samo dojam njegovanosti, nego upravo i nacifranosti bez klizanja u kič koji se tako često događa kod pretjeranoga i neznalačkog uređivanja.

Neumorni i dosjetljivi obnovitelji Stare Kapele tim sadržajima dodali su i sokak starih zanata, s nekoliko radionica - krečanom u kojoj se spektakularno pali i gasi kreč, tkalačkom sa sedam tkalačkih stanova u kojoj se održavaju tečajevi tkanja, pecarom rakije i kovačnicom, a u pripremi su medičarska i lončarska radionica. Napravljena su i dva pčelinjaka, a na ulazu u selo uređuje se ugibalište i parkiralište. Prije nekoliko godina sagrađena je i staza Križnoga puta, kao i pčelarska staza.

Nedavno je braniteljska udruga dovršila još tri tematske staze, od kojih je najduža petkilometarska Zelena magistrala na relaciji Stara Kapela - Stari rudnik - Pavlovci. Oko Stare Kapele cesta je koja se proteže u dužini od dva kilometra i vodi do najvišeg vrha toga kraja, s lijepim pogledom na selo i okolicu.

Voćarska cesta ujedno je posljednji tematski put, s ukupnom dužinom od kilometar i pol.

Postavljena je i suvenirnica u kojoj će na prodaju biti ponuđeni jedinstveni ručno izrađeni suveniri ovoga kraja, te kušaonica vina u

A view of Stara Kapela and the main road

Detalji iz obnovljenih kuća Details from renovated houses

Tkalački stan Weaving machine

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sklopu još jedne tematske ceste. Uređena je i konjušnica s koralom, koja će, planirano je, služiti za uzgoj autohtonih hrvatskih pasmina konja, školu jahanja, terapijsko i rehabilitacijsko jahanje.

Starosjedioci su srdačno pozdravili tu preobrazbu svoga sela i svojim su nanovo probuđenim poletom i sami pridonijeli uspjehu toga sjajnog plana, uključivši se spretno u poslovni pothvat - plasirajući gostima vlastite domaće proizvode, poznate slavonske specijalitete poput šunke, slanine, kulena i kulenove seke, čvaraka, domaćih sireva, kozjih sireva i meda,

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Oldtimer, sudionik Međunarodnog Grenzland Rallyja An oldtimer, participating in the International Grenzland Rally

džemova od divljih plodova ili voća starinskih sorti uzgojenih u vlastitim voćnjacima i vrtovima - kruškama tikvičarkama, žutikama, moljačama, jabukama okruglinama, srčikama, paradijama, šljivama komorčankama. Te su sorte gotovo zaboravljene, iako su bile tako prilagođene ovom podneblju da su lakše odolijevale bolestima nego neke nove, modernije i traženije. I danas se, kao nekad, voće suši na suncu ili u posebnim pušnicama i čuva za zimu i post u korizmi. Od voća prešanoga u posebnim ižimačama dobivao se slatki mošt - šira, od šljiva i ostalog voća i danas se peče

Tradicijska narodna nošnja Traditional folk costume CROATIA AIRLINES

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rakija, a od divljih jabuka pravi ocat. Rakija se pije u raznim povodima, a počesto i bez povoda. I danas će goste koji dolaze u Staru Kapelu dočekati i zaželiti im dobrodošlicu baka Marija, maskota Stare Kapele, i to upravo gutljajem domaće rakije. Stare su se sorte vinove loze - slankamenke, bijelog rizlinga, kraljevine, a ponajviše autohtone brančevke ili kadarke, uzgajale na kolju. Zemlja je obrađivana na ugar, što znači da se svake godine dio polja ostavljao da se odmara; žito su sijali sijači u čistim bijelim dvogaćama da ostane čisto i bez korova, a dozrela zlatna polja žene su žele srpovima, jer kosa se počela rabiti tek sredinom prošlog stoljeća. Kosci bi u polju radili od rane zore, a snaše - reduše prostirale stolnjak u hladu kakvog hrasta i služile jednostavna i zasitna jela - kao što je masna tarana (vrsta tjestenine sa sirom i slaninom ili suhim mesom), pikantna starokapelska mesna štruca, proje i popare i slična okrepljujuća jela s pitama i bazlamačama na kraju.

U slavonskim se selima više ne čuje čordarov rog - čordar je neka vrsta pastira koji bi ujutro skupljao sva goveda u selu i vodio ih na zajedničke ispaše, a navečer ih vraćao u

Kulen Kulen (pork sausage)

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gazdinstva. Svaka bi kuća davala čordara onoliko dana koliko je krava imala u staji.

Po slavonskim se šumama sve rjeđe vide i kudrave svinje - lasaste mangulice uzgajane bez velikog troška na žiru u hrastovim šumama, zbog čega im je meso bilo osobito cijenjeno. Dok je nekad svakodnevni život bez konja bio teško zamisliv, danas ih drže samo za paradu, i gizdaju ih za razne smotre, kao i za svadbe. Konje se i prije čuvalo od teškoga rada i uprezalo ih se tek za prijevoz ili vršu žita, a za oranje drvenim plugom i zubačama koristili su se volovima. Naselja su uredno ušorena uz cestu, a u kućama su obitavale kućne zadruge, velike obiteljske zajednice koje su se pokazale dobrom podlogom za uvođenje novog načina obrane granice. Samo su takve velike zajednice imale dovoljno snage i za obradu zemlje i za uzdržavanje članova zaduženih za vojnu službu. To su prepoznale i austrijske vlasti pa su u Vojnoj krajini branile diobu kućnih zadruga, iako s vremenom proces dijeljenja nitko nije mogao zaustaviti.

Treba spomenuti da su carske vlasti na prostor Slavonije u 18. stoljeću uvele svilogojstvo, pa su tada posađeni mnogi dudovi, a u gradovima su se podizale svilane. Tom su domaćom svilom od svilene bube izvezeni mnogi stolnjaci, ručnici, ponjave i pregače, kakve se danas mogu vidjeti u kućama Stare Kapele. Na nošnjama bi bile dopunjene đerdanima i zlatnim nitima, a bile su vezene po pismu ili preko kartona - kore i krasile su mnoge djevojačke miraze.

Uspjeh Udruge Eko-etno selo Stara Kapela pospješio je razvoj i drugih udruga, poput Poljoprivedne braniteljske zadruge Stara Kapela koja se bavi uzgojem starih sorata voćaka - lješnjaka, oraha i šljiva ili Udruge za održivi razvoj sela Šor, koja također radi na obnovi starih kuća i pokreće radionice starih vještina - izrade ručnih radova, kao što je zlatovez, kačkanje, necanje, tkanje, šlinganje, ali i izradu poljoprivrednih proizvoda na ekološki način, organizaciju sajmova, pripravljanje tradicionalnih jela i kolača, skupljanje i izradu proizvoda od ljekovitog bilja.

Prije dvije godine Stara je Kapela bila jedno od odredišta na trasi Međunarodnoga Grenzland rallyja, pa su turisti i domaćini imali prilike vidjeti najskupocjenije oldtimere u Europi, od Rolls Roycea Ghost spirita iz 1912. godine, Bugattija iz 1923., dva primjerka od samo osam na svijetu postojećih Aston Martina, nekoliko BMW-a iz ranih tridesetih prošlog stoljeća, a baka Kata bila je osobito očarana Porscheom za koji su joj rekli da pod haubom krije čak 480 konja! Gosti su pristizali iz Francuske, Njemačke, Švicarske, Velike

Britanije, Italije, ali i Zagreba, bili zadivljeni tim jedinstvenim selom, a osobito oduševljeni tamburašima, veselim snašama i vrhunskom kuhinjom.

Zbog ljubavi prema nasljeđu, duhu prošlih vremena, sjaju i toplini ognjišta naših predaka, dogodilo se ovo malo, lijepo čudo u Slavoniji. 

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or all of us born in the city, familiar only with city life, the countryside is a great enigma. Despite the romantic atmosphere in idyllic pictures, we often imagine it as desolate, isolated, and even unattractive, with rain drenched fields, muddy roads, barn and chicken coop smells we are not used to, a lot of flying insects or something even worse - potentially dangerous crawlies. We imagine a life much harder than the one we know - connected to the grid, without having to worry about making special preparations for the winter. There are no snowblowers in the countryside which clear the roads and driveways of snow during the night in order for you to be able to make it to your overheated office in the morning and sit there staring at the monitors until your vision blurs. There is no post office, pharmacy, bakery or newspaper stand on every corner. Perhaps there are no corners even.

However, the roots of life are in the countryside; even for those of us who have no one to make us aware of it, no family in the countryside to visit over the summer or at the weekend, only to return home with a basket full of aromatic and tasty fruits. The countryside is so much more than the prejudice and mental limitations of our narrow-minded urban existences.

They say that life which is permanently removed from the countryside is simply a form of slow death. They say that the sun shines brighter in the countryside, where the air is crisp and clean, while the people are more content and calmer. The slower and simpler passage of time in the countryside makes our purpose more visible, perhaps even more tangible. Perhaps we have never gotten to know, or we have managed to forget, the scent of homemade bread that sneaks out through the iron doors of a peasant oven, letting us know: this is home; you are now, finally, home. The sweet smell of smoke from the chimney, the lush grass under our feet, the alluring aroma of ripe apples and quinces on the storeroom shelves, and the intoxicating smell of basil from the open windows…

This is where you realise that fireflies and butterflies are not extinct species, you find yourself surprised by pheasants that roam

freely close to the houses and the squirrels that cheekily snatch your freshly cleaned walnuts. Cute, noisy hedgehogs often come to the front door, while swallows build their mud nests right under the roof. The most precious thing in the countryside, however, is the calm… Here you find an overwhelmingly contagious natural peace all around you, a calmness which quenches the thirst you were not even aware of, an insatiable urban search for pleasure, an increasingly feverish need to prove oneself, and an increasingly superficial and tiring search for an external shine.

We know where one can find that calm, the exact location of the place where alarm clocks are the chirping birds or occasional rooster, where the luxurious silence composed of the sounds of nature, the way white is a non-colour comprised from all colours of the rainbow, will not be disturbed by anything, not the sounds of traffic nor the ringing of mobile phones. It is simply because there is no traffic or mobile phone signal there. The perfect place where you can finally listen and hear yourself, your own thoughts, is the village of Stara Kapela, a picturesque Slavonian settlement in BrodPosavina County, beneath Požeška Gora, half way between Nova Gradiška and Slavonski

Brod, far enough from the Sava River flood areas and major highways.

The village’s past is long and turbulent, as is common in the areas near the border. The Potok Grad fort, owned by the Gorjanski noblemen, first mentioned in 1275, was the foundation for the development of the village. In the 15th and 16th centuries the area was conquered by the Turks, following a less researched but certainly long and difficult period for the entire Posavina region - while some of the people were enslaved and much of the livestock was confiscated. Those who stayed engaged in agriculture, but they were forced to participate in the wars fought by the Turks. After the signing of the shameful peace with the Turks the royal army was of little use, and so the situation continued until the popular armed uprising led by Franciscan priest Luka Ibrišimović in the late 17th century, which finally pushed the Turks back. The village then became part of the Military Border.

The border regime was essential because the Turks occasionally invaded and pillaged the area, including the destruction of St. Mark’s Chapel in Stara Kapela in 1758. Two years later, according to a decree by Empress Maria Theresa and the strict spatial regulaCROATIA AIRLINES

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tions that determined the proper positioning of houses and their uniformed construction, Stara Kapela had to be moved from the hillsides of Požeška Gora to the valley. The current chapel, dedicated to the Ascension of Our Lord, was constructed in 1860 and boasts a very valuable altar painting. Around the same time, the new Foundations for the Building Ordinance of Market Towns and Villages in the Kingdom of Croatia and Slavonia were also adopted. The shape and size of the properties, the distance between houses, the design of roofs and chimneys, and the heights of fences were all strictly regulated. While the entrance to the valley was guarded by Grad Potok on one side, the well preserved Chapel of St. Dmitar stood guard on the other side, near Drenovci, and it is an example of an array of Slavonian borderline churches with blatant fortification elements. In short, it is a churchfort with an early gothic defensive tower. It was erected next to the fort structure, which was destroyed a long time ago by Suleiman’s Ibrahim Pasha himself, and it demonstrates several phases of construction. The church itself, featuring a tower and a polygonal shrine, was constructed in the gothic style. The second phase, during the Turkish occupation, saw the 116

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addition of a tower above the shrine, while the third phase is rooted in baroque. Apart from Glagolitic script, supposedly dating back to the 13th century, a stone built into the defensive tower features prehistoric drawings of deer.

The 20th century was the time of the World Wars, and a particularly important one for Slavonia and all of Croatia - the Homeland War. The dreadful years of war left devastated land, some villages were completely burned to the ground, the property of the displaced Croatian population pillaged, many houses destroyed, and the infrastructure was so damaged it brought the economy to its knees.

Such a state certainly has not benefitted Stara Kapela, whose population has been continuously declining since 1945, when the census numbered 170 inhabitants.

The small village became increasingly decrepit over the years, increasing numbers of people gave up on the difficult peasant lifestyle, and the coal mine, whose surface veins can still be found in the surrounding forests, was shut down in 1960. The narrow-gauge railway leading to the mine also ceased operations at the time. It was an additional blow to the survival of the village, which nowadays numbers only 13, mostly elderly, inhabitants.

However, something happened and the village has been given a new lease of life over the last few years. A group of enthusiasts, led by the local doctor, Antun Tucić, refused to forget their birthplace and let it decay. They decided to fight for the restoration and preservation of Stara Kapela, and make sure its traditional culture was saved. The result is a miracle - a simple Slavonian tourist destination, especially popular beyond the Croatian borders. With the goal of renovating and conserving the autochthonous Slavonian village, preserving its autochthonous agriculture, the cultivation of healthy food and care for ethno treasures, the Stara Kapela eco-ethno village association has revitalised the village by respecting traditional Slavonian architecture, customs and culture of living, thus preserving a little piece of Slavonia as it once used to be for the generations to come. And not just for the future… In a short amount of time, with the help of their own finances, donations from local companies and the tourist board, the county and Ministry of Tourism and Agriculture, they turned the semi-devastated village of their ancestors, overgrown with weeds and without any perspective, into a desirable village-hotel for everyone from the beginning

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of this story - those who are seeking a short break in the peace, safety and warmth of the onetime way of life. For those who prefer a more active vacation, the offer also consists of horseback riding programs, mountain-biking rides, Nordic walking, running, and walks along educative paths with diverse local flora and fauna. Of course, there are also various cultural events and a great gastronomic offer.

Last year, therefore, the four farms and some thirty beds available in the once forgotten and dormant village hosted more than a thousand guests, mostly foreigners, on overnight stays.

The European Travel Journalist Association officially acknowledged this exquisite offer with a reward for the successful development of rural tourism.

The entire story has lasted more than ten years. Throughout the first year, the terrain and surroundings were cleared and the legal paperwork was dealt with. Construction sites were purchased by aficionados of traditional values and furniture was gathered - from old fashioned beds, closets, tables and chairs and other equipment for twenty houses, such as old chests, curtain and bedding lace, to folklore wear. A 13 kilometre long and three metre wide walking and cycling

path, featuring several rest areas and a large viewpoint, as well as replicas of old čardak houses - typical features on the military border with the Ottoman Empire, was constructed shortly thereafter. Čardaks are six metres tall, they can accommodate up to 30 people, and they provide spectacular views of all the four sides of the world. According to tradition, public lighting was also installed on old fashioned candelabras made from Slavonian beams, featuring hidden lightbulbs from which petroleum lamps are suspended. The path features signposts, information boards, picnic tables, markings with names, pictures and descriptions of plants, mushrooms, birds and other wildlife. It is a true nature school.

There are more than 120 plant species, more than 80 types of birds and other animals, as well as 60 sorts of mushrooms with descriptions and basic information on edibility, while the lamp posts feature signs with selected, anthological verses of Croatian poetry tied to the countryside and Slavonia, such as those by the renowned Croatian poets Cesarić and Tadijanović.

Every single detail was taken into account, so that even the wire fences surrounding the farms were replaced with traditional wooden

fencing, and the houses were renovated or rebuilt using only traditional materials, old roof tiling, bricks and wood material. The facades were also renovated and painted in an old fashioned way, according to advice from conservationists, and featuring traditional ornamentation. The village centre features a shadoof, a contraption used to extract water from a well, which was once a proud feature of every front yard. There are also several communal contraptions used by the entire village to provide water for the livestock. The number of shadoofs was indicative of the amount of livestock in a particular village. The village centre also features a gazebo, a swing and a wooden merry-go-round, and all of it is decorated with flowers from the traditional gardens. The communal areas are tidy and the grass is always mowed, so the village does not only leave the impression of being perfectly kept, but also the decorativeness does not sway towards kitsch, which is often a consequence of exaggerated and unprofessional decorating interventions.

Tireless and resourceful, the renovators of Stara Kapela also constructed an alley of old crafts along with several workshops - a lime kiln where limestone is spectacularly burnt, a CROATIA AIRLINES

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weavers workshop with seven weaving looms where weaving courses are held, a brandy distillery and a blacksmith’s shop, while the opening of both honey and beeswax candle shops and a pottery is in the pipeline. Two apiaries have also been established, and a rest stop and parking lot are under construction at the entrance to the village. Several years ago, the Stations of the Cross Path and Beekeepers’ Path were constructed.

The Veterans’ Association has recently also finished three other themed paths, the longest of which is the five kilometre Green Highway connecting Stara Kapela-Stari Rudnik-Pavlovci. Around Stara Kapela is a road which stretches for two kilometres and leads to the area’s highest peak, featuring a beautiful view of the village and its surroundings. The Orchard Path is the final themed path, stretching a total of a kilometre and a half.

There is also a souvenir shop offering unique handmade souvenirs from the area, as well as a wine tasting area as part of another themed road. According to plans, the renovated stable and corral will serve for the breeding of autochthonous Croatian horse breeds, riding schools and therapeutic and rehabilitation riding.

The natives wholeheartedly welcomed this transformation of their village, and their newly awakened enthusiasm greatly contributed to the success of this fantastic plan. They became involved in the business venture, offering guests their own homemade products - renowned Slavonian specialties such as ham, bacon, kulen and kulenova seka, pork rinds, various homemade cheeses and goat cheese, honey, jam made from wild berries or fruit grown in their own orchards and gardens - various indigenous pears (tikvičarka, žutika, moljača) apples (okrugline, srčike, paradije) and plums (komorčanke). These sorts are almost forgotten nowadays, even 118

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though they have been adapted to the area in such a way it has made them more resilient to diseases than some new, more modern and sought after sorts. Like back in the day, fruit is nowadays dried in the sun or in specific smoking chambers in order to preserve it for the winter and for the period of fasting during Lent. Fruit was pressed in special fruit presses and yielded sweet must known as šira. Plums and other fruits have always been distilled into fruit brandies known as rakija, while wild apples are turned into apple cider vinegar.

Rakija is consumed on various occasions, and often even without any occasion at all. Even today, the guests who arrive in Stara Kapela will be greeted and welcomed by grandma Marija - the mascot of Stara Kapela, who offers them a shot of homemade rakija. Old grape varieties: slankamenka, white riesling, kraljevina, and most of all the autochthonous brančeva or kadarka grapewines were cultivated on individual stakes. The farmers used the crop rotation system which means that every year part of the field was left fallow to rest and recover; wheat was sown by sowers in clean white linen trousers to make sure that it remained clean and without chuff. When the fields became golden with ripe grain, women would cut the plants with sickles because the scythe was not used before the middle of last century. Hay makers worked from dawn and young women served their simple and filling meals on a tablecloth in the shade of an oak tree. Their staples included greasy tarana (a type of pasta with cheese and bacon or dry cured meat), a spicy Stara Kapela meat loaf, cornbread, bread and butter pudding, and other invigorating dishes with sweet pies and sweet cornbread at the end.

Slavonian villages no longer resonate with the sounds of a čordar’s horn. A čordar is a kind of shepherd who would gather all the livestock of the village in the mornings and take them for pasture, only to return them to their farms in the evenings. Each house would provide a čordar for as many days for each cow they had in the barn. The autochthonous black Slavonian pig known as mangulica is becoming a rare sight in the Slavonian forest; the species is bred without much cost, feeding on acorn, which is why their meat was much appreciated. Everyday life once used to be unimaginable without horses, but they are nowadays only kept for parades and are shown during various revues and weddings.

Horses were always spared of hard labour, and they were only harnessed to a carriage in order to transport or harvest wheat, while oxen were used to plough the fields with wooden ploughs. The houses follow a neat

line along the main street; in the past they were homes to extended families which functioned as communities and proved to be a good foundation to introduce a new way of defending the state border. Only such large communities had enough strength to both work on the land and feed the members who served in the military. The Austrian authorities recognized that and prohibited the splitting of such communities in the Military Krajina region, although the process became unstoppable as time went by.

It should be mentioned that the imperial government introduced silkworm breeding to Slavonia in the 18th century. This is why a lot of mulberry trees were planted in rural areas while the silk weavers opened their workshops in towns. Many tablecloths, towels, bedspreads and aprons adorned with silk embroidery can still be seen in the houses in Stara Kapela. On the national costumes of women such embroidery was further enhanced by necklaces made of gold coins and golden thread, and the embroidery was done using a cardboard pattern and was made part of every girl’s dowry.

The success of the Stara Kapela eco-ethno village association contributed to the development of other associations, such as the Agricultural Veterans’ Association which focused on the cultivation of ancient crops such as hazelnuts, walnuts and plums, and the Šor Association for the sustainable development of the village, which is focused on the renovation of old houses and which organises ancient handicraft workshops, including gold lace, crocheting, weaving and embroidery, but also on the manufacturing of ecological agricultural products, organising fairs, the preparation of traditional dishes and cakes, collecting and producing products from medicinal herbs, etc.

Two years ago, Stara Kapela was one of the checkpoints of the International Grenzland Rally, so tourists and locals had the opportunity to see some of the most valuable classic cars in Europe, ranging from a 1912 Rolls Royce Ghost Spirit, a 1923 Bugatti, two of only eight Aston Martin models in the world, and several 1930’s BMWs, while grandma Kata was most awestruck by a Porsche she was told had 480 horsepower! Guests who flocked from France, Germany, Switzerland, Great Britain, Italy and Zagreb were impressed by this unique village, and they especially enjoyed the performances of tambura players, the jolly girls and excellent food.

This small miracle in Slavonia was made possible thanks to the love of heritage, the spirit of times past and the glow and warmth of our ancestors’ fireplaces. 

UVALA ČIKAT ČIKAT BAY

Oaza bezvremenskog luksuza

An Oasis of Timeless Luxury

Na otoku Lošinju, koji je zbog blagotvorne

Located on the island of Lošinj - which was proclaimed a health resort due to its beneficial climate - is Čikat Bay, Lošinj›s first cove with premium, 5* offer and services.

Discover Hotel Bellevue, a unique place of luxury. Here, every detail has been carefully selected so that you feel special and sophisticated at every moment. Make sure to take advantage of the island’s climate and improve your health!

Our hotel and its unique Spa Clinic, which was declared the best wellness and spa service in the world, are the perfect choice for a pleasant escape from everyday life and a revitalizing wellness experience.

Villa Hortensia is a place where traditional Austro-Hungarian architecture and a refreshing, modern style meet. The villa is surrounded by a magnificent garden and has an outdoor swimming pool with heated sea water, a sunbathing area and a private beach. Ten luxurious ensuite bedrooms are available for you to relax and enjoy your vacation, along with flawless service.

Boutique Hotel Alhambra, a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, completes Čikat Bay’s premium offer. The hotel is an AustroHungarian villa dating back to 1912, designed by renowned Viennese architect Alfred Keller, inspired by Spanish architecture. Alhambra forms a unique location that combines the spirit of aristocratic times and exceptional luxury with top-notch, personalized service. You can enjoy your stay in the luxuriously furnished 36 deluxe rooms and 15 suites.

Check out our special offers and book your dream vacation! www.losinj-hotels.com T: +385 (0)51 66 11 01

klime proglašen klimatskim lječilištem, nalazi se uvala Čikat, prva lošinjska uvala s premium ponudom i uslugom na razini 5 zvjezdica.

Otkrijte Hotel Bellevue koji predstavlja jedinstveno mjesto luksuza. Ovdje je svaki detalj pomno biran kako biste se u svakom trenutku boravka osjećali posebno i profinjeno. Iskoristite prednosti lošinjske klime i poboljšajte zdravlje! Naš hotel i njegova jedinstvena Spa Clinic, koja je proglašena najboljim wellness i spa sadržajem na svijetu, savršen su izbor za ugodan bijeg od svakodnevice i revitalizirajuće wellness iskustvo.

Vila Hortensia mjesto je gdje se sreću tradicionalna austrougarska arhitektura i osvježeni moderni stil. Vila je okružena predivnim vrtom te raspolaže vanjskim bazenom s grijanom morskom vodom i sunčalištem te privatnom plažom. Deset raskošnih spavaćih soba na raspolaganju su za opuštanje i uživanje u odmoru uz besprijekornu uslugu.

Boutique Hotel Alhambra, član Small Luxury Hotels of The World, upotpunjuje premium ponudu uvale Čikat. Riječ je o austrougarskoj vili iz 1912. godine, koju je projektirao ugledni bečki arhitekt Alfred Keller, nadahnut španjolskim graditeljstvom.

Alhambra jest jedinstveno mjesto na kojemu se spaja duh aristokratskog vremena i suvremeni luksuz s vrhunskom personaliziranom uslugom. Možete uživati u vrhunski opremljenih 36 delux soba i 15 suitova.

Provjerite naše posebne ponude i rezervirajte već sada svoj odmor iz snova!

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IMPORTANNE RESORT

Royal Break u Royal Princess 5* i Royal Palm 5* - kraljevski odmor dostupan svima Royal Break at the Royal Princess Hotel 5* and THE Royal Palm Hotel 5* - suitable for everyone

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oželite li idućih mjeseci kraljevski odmor s obitelji ili jednostavno odlučite iznenaditi voljenu osobu romantičnim vikendom u Dubrovniku, pruža vam se idealna prilika.

Importanne Resort vam nudi Royal Break doslovno kraljevski odmor u Royal Princess Hotelu 5* i Royal Palm Hotelu 5* po veoma prihvatljivim cijenama, već od 23 eura po osobi na noć te s dodatnim pogodnostima, poput besplatnih masaža. Jedinstveno iskustvo odmora s prekrasnim pogledom na Jadransko more i Elafitsko otočje te mirisni mediteranski vrt i šetnica samo su dio onoga što će vam pružiti taj kraljevski odmor. Uz luksuzan i očaravajući hotelski interijer, osobito zadovoljstvo osiguravaju i prostrani balkoni s prekrasnim pogledom na otvoreno more i grebene, kao i wellness s velikim izborom tretmana. Ponuda Royal Break dostupna je od 1. ožujka do 24. travnja 2016. godine.

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hether you have been dreaming of a royal family break or you simply decide to surprise your loved one with a romantic weekend getaway in Dubrovnik, the upcoming months are an ideal chance to turn your plans into reality. Importanne Hotels & Resort have prepared an amazing special offer - Royal Break at the Royal Princess Hotel 5* and the Royal Palm Hotel 5* at attractive prices, starting from 23 EUR per person per night, with additional amenities included as, for example, a complimentary relaxing massage. Magnificent panoramic views of the Adriatic Sea and the Elaphiti Islands or fragrances arriving from the surrounding Mediterranean garden and the lovely promenade are only a part of the unique holiday experience waiting for you.

Along with the luxurious and enchanting hotel interior, guests can enjoy their time off at large balconies overlooking the sea and the reefs, or in the wellness zone offering wide choice of relaxing treatments. This special offer is valid from March 1st until April 24th, 2016.

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Znate li na čemu spavate u hrvatskim hotelima?

ijepo je znati da hotel u kojemu noćite ima kvalitetan, hrvatski madrac na kojemu možete bezbrižno spavati. Možda će za vaš izbor biti odlučujuć upravo hotel koji ima Hespo madrace. Rado bismo vam dali cijeli popis hotela opremljenih Hespom, no bojimo se da nemamo dovoljno mjesta na ovoj stranici.

Do you know where you sleep in Croatian hotels?

Zato ćemo vam potvrditi da se kvaliteta Hespo proizvodnje očituje u velikom broju opremanja hotelskih objekata pa je nesumnjivo da se pet hotela s Hespo madracima i krevetima nalazi na 10 najboljih pozicija prema Tripadvisor listi: 1. mjesto Monte Mulini u Rovinju, 2. mjesto Royal Princess u Dubrovniku, 4. mjesto Lone u Rovinju, 5. mjesto Bellevue u Dubrovniku, te 8. mjesto Hilton Imperijal u Dubrovniku.

Svi znamo da ćete sebi rijetko dopustiti da dvaput loše spavate u istome hotelskom objektu. Hoteli stoga ne bi trebali dopustiti da gost mora tražiti alternativna rješenja. Pogotovo kad znaju da s Hespom mogu osigurati miran san i sebi i svojim gostima, a ta će im se ulaganja u kvalitetne madrace i krevete zacijelo isplatiti.

Kvalitetno spavanje onaj je segment našeg života koji nam omogućuje da se odmorimo i obnovimo snagu za dan koji slijedi, a ujedno je i središte zanimanja naših godišnjih odmora.

Ne zaboravite da su dvije najvažnije i najviše korištene stvari u našem životu cipele i krevet, jer smo ili u jednome ili u drugome.

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t’s nice to know that the hotel in which you are spending the night in, has a good quality, Croatian mattress on which you can safely sleep. Maybe your choice of hotel would depend on the hotel which has a Hespo mattresses. We would love to give you a complete list of hotels equipped by the Hespo, but we are afraid that we do not have enough space on this page.

Therefore, we can confirm that the quality of Hespo production is manifested in a number of furnishing hotel facilities, so it is undoubtedly that 5 hotels with Hespo mattresses and beds is located on the top 10 positions according to Tripadvisor list: 1st place Monte Mulini, 2nd Royal Princess Dubrovnik, 4th Lone in Rovinj, 5th place Bellevue in Dubrovnik, and 8th place Hilton Imperial in Dubrovnik.

Hotel Lone u Rovinju Hotel Lone in Rovinj

We all know that you will rarely allow yourself to sleep poor twice in the same hotel. Hotels should not therefore allow the guest has to look for alternative solutions. Especially when they know that with Hespo they can provide peaceful sleep to themselves and their guests, and this investment in high-quality mattresses and bedding will definitely pay off.

Quality sleep is one segment of our lives that allows us to rest and renew our strength for the following day, and is the center of interest of our vacations. Do not forget that the two most important and most used things in our life are shoes and bed, because we are in one or in the other.

Hotel Navis u Opatiji Hotel Navis in Opatia

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Nebeska udobnost dostojna svakog hotela.

Ili onog koji želi usrećiti svoga gosta.

www.hespo.hr

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I. Čorić

PARIS - ZAGREB daily PARIS - DUBROVNIK on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Sundays PARIS - SPLIT on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays 124 CROATIA AIRLINES

LYON - SPLIT on Saturdays NICE - DUBROVNIK on Mondays and Fridays

072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555

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My airline.

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OBALA COAST

OTOK KRK LEGENDA I STVARNOST ISLAND OF KRK THE LEGEND AND THE REALITY

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eđu 1185 otoka u Hrvatskoj jedan je zlatni, Insula Aurea-otok Krk. Smješten u središtu Kvarnerskog zaljeva, prepoznat je kao jedno od najatraktivnijih turističkih odredišta.

Blaga mediteranska klima, geografski položaj te raznolikost prirodnih i kulturnih ljepota, još su mu u antici odredili naziv zlatni otok. Kulturološko nasljeđe priskrbilo mu je još jedan naziv - kolijevka hrvatske kulture, a u početku dvadesetog stoljeća prozvaše ga i šestim kontinentom.

Doslovno svi putevi vode do otoka Krka: s kopna - preko Krčkog mosta; s mora - brodovima u luke ili lučice, te trajektima u trajektno pristanište Valbiska; iz zraka - avionom u zračnu luku Rijeka kod Omišlja.

Samo 30 kilometara dijeli otok Krk od grada Rijeke ∑ tranzitnog, poslovnog, trgovačkog, sveučilišnog i kulturnog centra Kvarnera.

Bez obzira na to koji put odabrali, dolaskom na otok Krk uvjerit ćete se da zlatni otok odlikuje jedinstvo raznolikosti - spoj sadašnjosti i prošlosti, suvremenosti i arhaičnosti, legende i stvarnosti.

Nijedan čovjek nije otok sam za sebe, ali svatko ipak treba svoj otok. Neka stoga vaš otok bude zlatni otok, otok Krk. Upoznajte ga riječju i slikom, preko legendi i stvarnosti.

Od davnina se vjeruje kako je otok Krk sudbinski povezan s brojkom sedam: u sedmom su ga stoljeću naselili Hrvati, sedam se puta uspješno obranio od gusara, sedmi po redu knez Frankopan bio je posljednji krčki knez. Danas otok Krk ima sedam glavnih središta; glavni među glavnima jest grad Krk, nekad rimski municipij, danas administrativno, religijsko i gospodarsko središte otoka, ali i jedno od značajnijih kulturno - povijesnih ishodišta. Kao suprotnost hotelskim kompleksima, autokampovima i suvremenim

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arhitektonskim zdanjima, stoji stari dio grada koji oblikom evocira vremena rimske vladavine, kad je prozvan presjajnim gradom Krčana.

Nedaleko od Krka nalazi se Punat, jedno od najvećih hrvatskih nautičkih središta, ali i otočni centar maslinarstva. U središtu Puntarske drage smjestio se otočić Košljun s franjevačkim samostanom, proglašen spomenikom kulture.

Zaštitni je znak Baške 2 kilometra duga plaža, proglašena jednom od najljepših na svijetu.

Nedaleko od Baške nalazi se ishodište hrvatske pismenosti i kulture ∑ Jurandvor ∑ u kojem je 1100. godine nastao krsni list Hrvata Bašćanska ploča, najznačajniji hrvatskoglagoljski spomenik i dokument.

U dva otočna središta nećete naći hotele; to su središta drugačija od ostalih - to su gradići muzeji. Na 48 metara visokoj litici nad morem nalazi se Vrbnik, jedan od najjačih baštinika glagoljaštva i duhovnosti. Dobrinj, smješten na 200 metara visokom obronku, centar je za okolnih dvadesetak naselja, među kojima primat turističkog središta ima Šilo. Dobrinj i Vrbnik možda su najautohtoniji otočni primjeri nekadašnjih frankopanskih kaštela. Iako su civilizacijske tekovine ipak dijelom dotakle ta dva gradića-muzeja, Dobrinj i Vrbnik stilski evociraju život i običaje davnih vremena.

Samo 2 km od Krčkog mosta i u neposrednoj blizini Zračne luke Rijeka na brežuljku je Omišalj, jedno od najstarijih mjesta na otoku, važno glagoljaško i kulturno središte, čiji počeci sežu još u pretpovijesno razdoblje. Njivice, nedaleko od općinskog središta Omišlja, iz nekad mirnog, ribarskog mjesta postalo je turističko središte s modernim smještajnim kapacitetima, među kojima dominiraju hoteli, te autokamp koji štiti hladovina bjelogorice.

Na sjeverozapadnoj obali otoka nalazi se Malinska, središte Dubašnice, koja ima 20-ak naselja.

Malinska je jedno od jačih otočnih turističkih odredišta, karakteristično po brojnim plažama i razvijenom hotelijerstvu, a naselja u okolici prilagođena su obiteljskom turizmu.

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mong 1185 Croatian islands, only one is known as the Golden Island (Insula Aurea), namely the island of Krk. It is situated in the heart of the Kvarner Bay and is recognized as one of the most attractive tourist destinations. Already in ancient times, the island of Krk was referred to as the Golden Island because of its mild Mediterranean climate, geographical position and diversity of natural and cultural beauties. For its cultural heritage, it was also dubbed the Cradle of the Croatian Culture and at the beginning of the 20th century, some even started referring to this island as the Sixth Continent.

All paths lead to the island of Krk. It can be reached by land crossing the Krk Bridge. If you are coming by sea, there are boats that will take you to major and small ports on the island as well as ferry to Valbiska ferry port. Finally, if coming by air, take a flight to the Rijeka Airport near Omišalj.

Only 30 kilometers separate the island of Krk from the city of Rijeka, the transit, business, commercial, educational and cultural center of the Kvarner region.

Regardless of which path you choose, by coming to the island of Krk you will bear witness to the unity of diversities characterizing the Golden Island - the unity of the past and the present, the contemporary and archaic elements, the legend and the reality.

No man is an island but all of us need an island for ourselves. Let the Golden Island, the island of Krk, be your chosen island. Learn about it through pictures and words, through legends and the reality!

Since ancient times, it has been believed that the history of the island of Krk is connected to number seven: the island was inhabited by Croats in the 7th century; it successfully withstood seven pirate attacks; and the 7th in the line of the Frankopan dukes was the last Duke of Krk. Today, the island of Krk has seven major centers, the main of which is the city of Krk, former Roman municipality (municipium) and today an administrative, religious and economic center of the island as well as one of the most significant cultural and historical cradles. The old part of the town, which by its shape evokes the time of the Roman Empire when it was referred to as the Shiny Town of the People of Krk, stands apart from modern hotel complexes, motor camps and contemporary architecture.

Punat, one of the largest Croatian nautical destinations and the prime olive-growing section of the island, is situated not far from Krk. The islet of Košljun famous for its Franciscan monastery, a recognized monument of culture, is situated

in the heart of the Puntar Bay (Puntarska draga).

The main trademark of Baška is a 2-kilometerlong beach, proclaimed one of the most beautiful in the world. Jurandvor, the cradle of the Croatian literacy and culture, is situated close to Baška.

The Baška Tablet (Baščanska ploča), the most

significant Croatian Glagolitic monument and document dating from 1100, also referred to as the birth certificate of the Croatian people, originated in Jurandvor. There are two centers on the island with no hotels. These centers differ from others and are called museum cities.

Vrbnik, one of the strongest preservers of the Glagolitic heritage and spirituality, is situated atop a 48-meter-high cliff. Dobrinj, situated on a 200-meter-high slope, is the center encompassing the surrounding twenty settlements, Šilo being the main tourist center among them.

Dobrinj and Vrbnik are perhaps the most authentic examples of former Frankopan fortifications found on the island. Although these two museum cities have been affected by modern civilization, Dobrinj and Vrbnik still evoke the life and customs of the days gone by.

Omišalj, one of the oldest settlements on the island and an important Glagolitic and cultural center dating from the prehistoric times, is situated on a hill, only 2 kilometers from the Krk Bridge and in the immediate vicinity to the Rijeka Airport. Njivice, situated not far from the municipal center of Omišalj, has grown from what used to be a peaceful fishing settlement into a tourist center with modern accommodation facilities, dominated by hotels and the motor camp that enjoys the shade of deciduous trees.

Malinska, the center of Dubašnica that encompasses twenty settlements, is located on the northwest coast of the island. It is one of the stronger tourist centers on the island characterized by numerous beaches and developed hotel business. The surrounding settlements are adapted to suit the needs of those who prefer

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family tourism.

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Hrvatski prirodni biseri na prestižnoj turističkoj europskoj karti Jewels of Croatian nature on Europe's prestigious tourist map Tri hrvatska zaštićena područja - Nacionalni park Kornati te parkovi prirode Lonjsko polje i Medvednica - nagrađena su Europskim certifikatom za održivi turizam, koji im ne otvara samo vrata Europe, nego ih spaja s ljudima koji u njima žive i rade Three Croatian protected areas - the Kornati National Park and Nature Parks Lonjsko Polje and Medvednica - have been awarded the European Charter for Sustainable Tourism which not only opens the door to Europe, but also connects them with people who either work or live in them

Piπu/By Snježana Malić-Limari, Martina Markov i Valerija Hima

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rvatska je priroda prekrasna, a njezini su biseri zaštićena područja. Ali park nije samo priroda koja ostavlja bez daha - park su ljudi. Vođeni tom pretpostavkom, u WWF Adria prepoznali su vrijednost Europskog certifikata za održivi turizam, koji Europarc Federacija dodjeljuje onim zaštićenim područjima koja ispunjavaju sve uvjete održivosti, te su potaknuli tri parka na razvijanje strategije održivog turizma sa svojim stanovnicima. Višemjesečni se trud isplatio: Nacionalni park Kornati i parkovi prirode Lonjsko polje i Medvednica ističu se među ostalim hrvatskim zaštićenim područjima kao parkovi s prestižnim certifikatom koji ih stavlja na kartu onih europskih parkova koje je zaista vrijedno posjetiti.

Zašto Europski certifikat za održivi turizam? Jer njega dobivaju oni parkovi koji, osim što rade na svome osnovnom načelu - zaštiti prirode, rade na odnosu s posjetiteljima, ali prije svega na odnosu s lokalnom zajednicom: stanovnicima koji u parku ili oko njega žive, kao i onima koji tu rade i na bilo koji način su s parkom povezani.

Takav pametan način upravljanja parkom prepoznat je i u drugim europskim zemljama, od parkova u francuskoj Provansi preko Engleske do Italije. I Hrvatska je napokon ušla u ugledno društvo sa svoja tri, u prirodnom smislu, sasvim različita parka.

Po čemu su osobiti?

Tek jedan pogled na raštrkane kornatske otoke i kornatske krune, dovoljan je da se zaljubite u Nacionalni park Kornati. Kao dio najgušće otočne skupine na Sredozemlju, Kornatskog otočja, ima čak 89 otoka, otočića i hridi. To što su svi otoci u privatnom vlasništvu, upravi parka bila je dovoljan razlog za ostvarivanje dobre suradnje s vlasnicima, korisnicima parka te s lokalnom zajednicom. Labirint otoka i uvala, prekrasnog krajobraza uronjenog u čisto morsko plavetnilo, razlog su što se to područje naziva rajem za nautičare. A ako tije-

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kom plovidbe naiđete na neke od 150 jedinki dobrih dupina koje na tom području viđamo… uistinu raj! Ronjenje ispod kornatskih strmaca (krune) - istraživanje veoma bogate i očuvane biološke raznolikosti razlog su dolaska brojnih ljubitelja podmorja.

Boravak u kornatskim kućama, šetnja brojnim stazama uz posjet vidikovcima i kulturnopovijesnim objektima, berba maslina i striženje ovaca s vlasnicima posjeda, novi su i za ovo područje specifični proizvodi te podsjetnici na život kakav je na ovom području nekad bio. Uz domaću spizu, posebice specijalitete od kornatske janjetine začinjene vrhunskim kornatskim maslinovim uljem, odmor po kurna'ski nezaboravan je. Više na www.np-kornati.hr.

Jedrenje po Kornatima je čarobno, no vožnja kruzerom po rijeci Savi sasvim je druga, jednako posebna priča! Kruzerom, naime, možete doći u Park prirode Lonjsko polje, gdje ćete čuti oduševljenog vodiča kako objašnjava da su njegovi turisti uvijek fascinirani spojem prirode, kulture i čovjeka koji je vidljiv u svakom segmentu živućeg sustava posavskoga kulturnog krajolika.

Turisti mogu, šetajući selima uz rijeku Savu, sresti stanovnike koji žive u starim drvenim posavskim kućama sagrađenima od poznate hrastovine te mogu vidjeti krave, konje i svinje na slobodnoj ispaši na prostranim prirodnim pašnjacima. Za ljubitelje ptica - područje na kojemu je do danas zabilježeno 250 vrsta ptica - pravi je izazov! Oduvijek su ljudi u Lonjskom polju svoj način življenja prilagođavali vodi i poplavi, što je stvorilo izvanredan sustav koji se isprepleće kroz sve aspekte ljudske interakcije s okolišem.

Održivi razvoj ovoga posavskog blaga, koji tvore i priroda i ljudi, moguć je isključivo definiranjem zajedničke vizije te zajedničkim radom sa stanovnicima parka. Jer Park su ljudi i dok oni ovdje vide svoju budućnost kroz razvoj i jačanje gospodarstva i lokalnog ponosa, zapošljavanje

i poboljšanje infrastrukture, park je u sigurnim rukama. Više na www.pp-lonjsko-polje.hr.

Sasvim drukčiji oblik turizma razvijen je u Parku prirode Medvednica. Medvednica je osobito rijedak primjer ulaska parka prirode u glavni grad. To je prostor u kojemu se prirodne i kulturnopovijesne vrijednosti međusobno isprepleću i uvjetuju. Bujne šume, zagonetni dvorci, srednjovjekovni rudnici, tajanstvene špilje, izvori i potoci, fantastični vidici, kultura, folklor, umjetnost, sport, gastronomija i druga njezina impozantna blaga, zadovoljavaju najširu lepezu ljudskih interesa, pružajući kompletan boravak bogat ljepotom, otkrićima i uvijek vas ostavljajući s bezuvjetnim poštovanjem, a ovom prigodom predstavljamo tri najistaknutija.

Na njezinu jugozapadnom dijelu nalazi se špilja Veternica, koju su nekad nastavali neandertalci i stari Rimljani, a danas čak osamnaest vrsta šišmiša. Rudnik Zrinski srednjovjekovni je rudnik srebra u kojemu nam skulpture rudara pričaju priču o srebru što su ga mukotrpno otimali iz utrobe Zemlje. Spektakularni srednjovjekovni grad Medvedgrad dom je brojnih hrvatskih velikaških obitelji, među kojima je najokrutnija svakako bila Barbara Celjska, narodu poznatija kao Crna kraljica. Više na www.pp-medvednica.hr.

Zašto je Europska Federacija certificirala ta tri parka? Odgovor je jednostavan, a otkrijte ga i sami posjetom NP Kornati, čudu prirode s najviše otoka u Sredozemlju; PP Lonjsko polje, koje prikazuje tradiciju suživota ljudi i prirode, te PP Medvednici, tajanstvenoj planini iznad Zagreba, gdje se čovjek lako može vratiti prirodi. 

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roatian nature is gorgeous and its protected areas are its crown jewels. However, a park is not merely nature that leaves you breathless - a park also includes its people! Under that assumption, WWF Adria recognised the value of the European Charter for Sustainable Tourism

awarded by the EUROPARC Federation to the protected areas that meet all the sustainability requirements, and encouraged three parks to develop sustainable tourism strategies with their residents. The months of effort have finally paid off: the Kornati National Park and Nature Parks Lonjsko Polje and Medvednica stand out among other protected areas in Croatia as parks with a prestigious certificate, placing them on the map of European parks that truly merit a visit.

Why the European Charter for Sustainable Tourism? Because it is awarded to parks which, in addition to working on their basic principle - protection of nature - also work on their relationship with visitors, but above all on their relationship with the local community: those who live in the park or in its vicinity, as well as those who work there and are somehow associated with the park. Such a clever way of managing parks has been recognized in other European countries as well, from parks in French Provence to England and Italy. And Croatia has finally entered this prestigious community with its three parks, which are quite different in terms of their nature.

What makes them special?

Just one look at the scattered islands of Kornati and the crown of Kornati is enough to make you fall in love with the Kornati National Park.

As part of the densest group of islands in the Mediterranean, the Kornati National Park has as many as 89 islands, islets and reefs. The fact that all the islands are privately owned was reason enough for the park administration to strive for good cooperation between the owners, park users and the local community.

The labyrinth of islands and bays, beautiful landscapes immersed in the crystal clear sea, are the reason why this area is called a nautical paradise! And if while sailing you come across some of the 150 bottlenose dolphins that can

be seen in this area.... true heaven! Diving under the Kornati cliffs - exploring the exceptionally rich and well-preserved biodiversity - is the reason many lovers of the sea come here.

Staying in Kornati homes, strolling the numerous paths and visiting lookouts and cultural and historical sites, picking olives and shearing sheep with property owners are new products specific to this area and reminders of life as it used to be in this region. With local dinning, especially Kornati lamb specialties seasoned with top-notch Kornati olive oil, make a Kornati vacation unforgettable. For more information see: www.np-kornati.hr.

Sailing the Kornati islands is magical, but a ride on a cruiser on the river Sava is quite another, but just as special story! You can, in fact, enter the Lonjsko Polje Nature Park on a cruiser, while the enthusiastic guides explain that their visitors are always fascinated by the merging of nature, culture and mankind which are visible in every segment of the living systems of the Posavina cultural landscape. While strolling in the villages along the Sava River, tourists can meet residents who live in old wooden Posavina houses built from famous oak, and can see cows, horses and pigs grazing freely on vast natural pastures. For bird lovers - the area with 250 species of birds recorded up to now is a real challenge! Since time immemorial, people in Lonjsko Polje adapted their lifestyle to water and floods, which created a remarkable system intertwined through all aspects of human interaction with the environment.

Sustainable development of this crown jewel of Posavina, which consists of both the nature and its people, is made possible solely by defining a common vision and working together with the park residents. Because people make up the Park, and as long as they see their future through the development and empowerment of the economy and local pride, employment

and improvement of infrastructure, the park is in safe hands. For more information see: www. pp-lonjsko-polje.hr.

Quite a different type of tourism developed in the Medvednica Nature Park. Medvednica is an extremely rare example of a nature park entering the capital. This is an area where natural, cultural and historical values​a re intertwined and affect each other. Dense forests, mystical castles, medieval mines, mysterious caves, springs and streams, fantastic views, culture, folklore, art, sports, gastronomy and its other impressive treasures, satisfy the widest range of human interests by providing a complete sojourn, rich in beauty and discoveries and always leaving you with unconditional respect.

On this occasion we would like to present the three most distinguished sites.

The Veternica Cave is located on the mountain's southwest slopes. It was once inhabited by the Neanderthals and ancient Romans, while today it is home to as many as eighteen species of bats. The Zrinski Mine is a medieval silver mine where sculptures of miners tell the story of silver which was painstakingly snatched from the bowels of the Earth.

The spectacular medieval town Medvedgrad was a home to many Croatian noble families, the cruellest of which was certainly Barbara Celjska, known among the populace as the Black Queen. For more information see: www. pp-medvednica.hr.

Why did the European Federation certify these three parks? The answer is simple. You can discover it for yourself by visiting the Kornati National Park, a miracle of nature with the largest number of islands in the Mediterranean; the Lonjsko Polje Nature Park, presenting the tradition of coexistence between humans and nature, and the Medvednica Nature Park, a mystical mountain above Zagreb where one can easily go back to nature. î ?

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CROATIAN GASTRO MAGIC Piπu/By Dubravka Prpić Znaor Fotografije/Photos Croatian Design Superstore

Maja Danica Pečanić

Croatia in the box dizajn / design: Izvorka Jurić

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Hrvatska je poznata kao jedno od vodećih regionalnih odredišta s kvalitetnom i inovativnom kuhinjom - lokalna je domaća hrana često na meti brojnih ne samo domaćih, nego i svjetskih gastronomskih nomada koji cijene ne samo zanimljive recepte, nego i vrhunske sastojke autohtone ekološke proizvodnje. Stoga, nije čudno što se paralelno s razvojem restoranske, razvila inovativna scena koja nudi simbiozu fine hrane i suvenira.

Croatia is known as one of the leading regional destinations with high quality and innovative cuisine - local, home-made food frequently attracts numerous local as well as international gastro nomads who appreciate the interesting recipes and exquisite, autochthonous, ecologically produced ingredients. Therefore, it is not surprising that the restaurant scene has simultaneously developed along with the innovative scene, offering a symbiosis of good food and souvenirs.

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ad vidite neka od pakiranja, poželjet ćete ih staviti na stol kao ukras. A da sve bude bolje, unutra se kriju prave delicije napravljene od autohtonih, često ekoloških sastojaka. Ovaj odličan produkt-dizajn osmislili su lokalni autori u suradnji s ponajboljim hrvatskim gastronomskim proizvođačima: itekako je važno ono što je unutra, no i vanjski dojam jednako je bitan. Današnjem je svijetu estetska komponenta veoma važna, a još kad

je tu i ona inovativna, stvar postaje gotovo suvenirska, produkt koji iznenađuje i oduševljava od početka do kraja. A kako bi se kulinarsko iskustvo nastavilo, naši su dizajneri odlučili oplemeniti kuhinju simpatičnim kreacijama radi kojih se stol pretvara u pravu art-podlogu.

Inovativni prateći detalji poput predivnih krpi i dasaka za rezanje i degustaciju na hrvatskom dizajnerskom nebu također imaju svoje adute.

Pa, počnimo s upoznavanjem!

Croatia in a Box u ulozi je ambasadora domaće kulturne baštine i vrhunskih autohtonih gastronomskih proizvoda malih proizvođača: riječ je o suvremeno dizajniranoj kutiji mediteranskih boja i motiva s ključnim simbolima hrvatske kulturne baštine. Tu su nacrtani pleter, glagoljica, paška čipka, sinjska alka, licitarsko srce… a unutra se kriju same delicije.

- Ipak, nije riječ samo o kutiji, nego je naglasak na njezinom kvalitetnom sadržaju - istaknuli su

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osnivači Sanja Milardović i Anatolij Lazinica.

Paketi dolaze u čak 13 varijanti. Za suvremeni prikaz identiteta hrvatskog proizvoda brendiranjem poklon-kutije Croatia in a Box zaslužna je Izvorka Jurić, mnogostruko nagrađivana dizajnerica na području vizualne komunikacije i identiteta proizvoda.

Vizualno je atraktivno i maslinovo ulje Didino: riječ je o obiteljskom biznisu koji cvate već naraštajima. Ulje se proizvodi u ograničenim količinama, a ime i dizajn nadahnuti su starim pričama djeda i njegovom ljubavlju prema maslinama. Kada je djed (od milja zvan dida) išao u berbu, sa sobom je uvijek nosio velike jutene vreće u koje bi skupljao masline, pa je i dizajn prilagođen: pakiranje ima tekstil koji podsjeća na jutu, šivan je po mjeri boce na kojoj je i logotip s djedovim štapom kao glavnim detaljem. Bonus: vrećica i etiketa štite od sunca. Rad čiji dizajn potpisuje studio Manasteriotti & Marić višestruko je nagrađen (Sudnji dan 2012 - dizajn godine, 2013 Print Portfolio Review Award-nagrada), Print Magazine (objava), 2014 Communication Arts (objava), Lovely Package (objava), Behance Branding Served, the Dieline (objava + the Dieline Top 10 of the Week).

Imamo još jednog pobjednika: maslinovo ulje Oleum Viride nagrađeno je međunarodnom nagradom Red Dot i hrvatskom Cropak. Riječ je o ekstra djevičanskome maslinovome ulju obitelji Belić, a dizajn inspiriran prekrasnim tonovima ulja potpisuje vrsna produkt-dizajnerica Ksenija Jurinec. Boje za dizajn etiketa dobivene su metodom bionike, stiliziranjem boja ploda masline svake pojedine sorte u njezinoj ranoj i kasnoj fazi sazrijevanja.

Hrvatska ima fascinantni niz veoma kvalitetnih maslinovih ulja - donosimo još jedno koje izgleda poput pravog suvenira. Riječ je o Brachia Olive koje se krije u bijeloj keramičkoj bočici inspiriranoj upravo izgledom masline. Pakiranje je ekološko, a bočica se 134

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Didino dizajn / design: Manasteriotti & Marić

nakon nekog vremena može rabiti za neke druge svrhe.

I sam koncept konzumacije hrane za naše je produkt-dizajnere nadahnuće: Terra: eat well Terracota podloga za serviranje hrane rad je Tee Radić. Riječ je o konceptu dalmatinske marende, obroka koji se tradicionalno poslužuje između doručka i ručka te se jede polako, nipošto s nogu i brzo… Dio ovog koncepta jest i odmor uz finu hranu, što znači itekako dobrodošlo usporavanje u našoj prebrzoj svakodnevici. Osim toga, te podloge mogu poslužiti i kao podmetači za vruće posude.

Uz podlogu nam treba i atraktivna domaća kuhinjska krpa - odgovor je Anek. Autorica i

grafička dizajnerica Ana Žaja Petrak inspiraciju je pronašla u Dalmaciji i prepoznatljivim simbolima kao što su fritule, maraska, plavac i mišancija. Uglavnom su to dobro znani gastronomski simboli dalmatinske regije, njezine povijesti, kuhinje, vinarstva te domaćih proizvoda. Riječ je o kolekciji koja je nastala kao proces suradnje Croatian Design Superstorea s Anom Žajom Petrak, uspješnom ilustratoricom hrane.

Paletu gastronomskih delicija nudi Aroma Ragusea - posrijedi je manufaktura koju je pokrenula Maja Šikić. Plan je bio oživjeti stare dubrovačke recepte s početka prošloga stoljeća i pretvoriti ih u proizvode koji će biti osobiti okusom i izgledom. U ponudi su

Oleum Viride dizajn / design: Ksenija Jurinec

keksi ili baškotini s okusima limuna, naranče, cimeta… zatim likeri, ušećereni bademi, krokanti, jadranska sol obogaćena limunom, ružmarinom i aromatičnom kaduljom te prirodni čajevi. Pakiranje podsjeća na klasične dubrovačke kućice koje se mogu vidjeti na dubrovačkom Stradunu i oko njega.

Bogatstvo ponude krije se i iza simpatičnog imena odnosno uzvika OH!: riječ je o seriji autohtonih hrvatskih proizvoda, uzgojenih i proizvedenih na otoku Visu. Pomno birani

sastojci iz ekološkog uzgoja pripremljeni su na tradicionalan način, a puno ime brenda Okusite Hrvatsku sažeto je u kratki, iznenađeni i pozitivan uzvik - oh. Birajte između džemova, marmelada, voćnih kolačića, ulja, vina i likera.

Dizajn potpisuje studio Bestias.

U Hrvatskoj će vas, osim izvrsnim vinima, ponuditi i - rakijom. Može biti žestoka ili manje jaka, no uvijek je dojmljiva okusa, obogaćena nekom ljekovitom biljkom ili, na primjer, orasima, medom, rogačem… Zgodno pakiranje

nadahnuto je stereotipima vezanima uz turiste i domaće običaje i likove. Za rakije se specijalizirao Towar, a ime podsjeća na tovara ili lokalnog magarca. Dizajn potpisuje poznati fotograf Boris Poljičanin.

Ekološka proizvodnja u Hrvatskoj sve je prisutnija: jedan od prirodnih sokova jest Maričin sok koje stiže s obiteljskoga poljoprivrednoga gospodarstva Marice Jug u okolici Našica.

Fini prirodni sokovi smješteni su u pakiranja na kojima se nalaze ilustracije inspirirane kla-

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Brachia Olive dizajn / design: Izvorka Jurić

Terra: eat well Terracota Tea Radić

sičnim radnim danom vrijedne Marice. Dizajn potpisuju Bruketa & Žinić.

Papar i sol idu zajedno: vrijeme je za Pinch of salt - dizajn studio Manufakturist potpisuje kreaciju staklenke koja ima karakterističan obli oblik. Dovoljno je potopiti je u more, ostaviti je nekoliko dana na suncu kako bi voda ishlapila.

U staklenki će ostati - čista sol!

Zimske užitke rekreirali su u Dobroj berbi: dizajn Zimskog kuhanog vina, koje je osvojilo

Anek dizajn Ana Žaja Petrak

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Aroma ragusea dizajn / design: Orsat Franković

dar i društvena igra koja otvara apetit. Idealno za one koji vole kućna druženja i razgovor o hrani, pa žele naučiti i nešto o onoj hrvatskoj.

Upoznajte na zabavan i doslovno fini način što su to buzara, peka, mlinci, biži, bobići ili hib, pašticada… Croatia à la carte pakiranje sadrži špil igraćih karata s namirnicama, špil karata s jelima te bogato ilustriranu kuha-

ricu koja prati igru i detaljno opisuje recepte. 

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hen you see some of the packaging, you will want to put it on your table as a decoration! Even better, it contains real treats made from autochthonous, often eco ingredients. This

Aroma ragusea dizajn / design: Orsat Franković

Red Dot nagradu za dizajn vizualnih ambalaža, potpisuje Romana Kajp. Vino je začinjeno i dolazi u pakiranju od 3 litre, a od sastojaka tu su Cabernet Sauvignon (za crno), Chardonay (za bijelo) kao i klinčić, vanilija, cimet i naranča.

Recept potpisuje enolog Saša Štula. Vino je jednostavno za uporabu - treba ga zgrijati na oko 65 stupnjeva Celzijevih i sve je spremno.

Izvana je jednako krasno: zgodan motiv asocira na blagdanski dio godine.

Tu je još jedna divotica: Croatia à la carte jest tri u jedan, odnosno suvenir, gastronomski

OH! dizajn / design: Studio Bestias CROATIA AIRLINES

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Maričin sok od višnje / Marica's Tart Cherry Juice dizajn / design: Bruketa & Žinić

excellent product design was conceived by local authors in cooperation with the best gastro manufacturers in Croatia: the contents are indeed very important, but the external impression is just as crucial. Aesthetics are a very important aspect in the world today, but when it is also innovative it becomes practically souvenir-like; a product which surprises and delights from beginning to end. In order for the culinary experience to continue, our designers have decided to enhance the cuisine with charming creations, which turn the table into a true art surface. Innovative ancillary details such as beautiful kitchen cloths, as well as cutting and tasting boards, are trump cards in the Croatian world of design. Well, let’s get to know them!

Croatia in a Box plays the role of the ambas-

Towar dizajn / deign: Boris Poljičanin

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sador of local cultural heritage and exquisite gastronomic products by small manufacturers: it is a contemporarily designed box with Mediterranean colours and motifs, featuring key symbols of Croatian cultural heritage, including the Croatian wattle, Glagolitic lettering, lace from the island of Pag, the Alka of Sinj, the licitar heart, etc., and it contains numerous delicacies. However, it is not just a box; the emphasis is on the quality of the contents, as was pointed out by its founders Sanja Milardović and Anatolij Lazinica. Packages are available in as many as 13 different variants. Izvorka Jurić, the multiply awarded designer in the world of visual communication and product identity, devised the modern presentation of the identity of Croatian products through branding the Croatia in a Box gift package.

Visually attractive is also Didino olive oil: it is a family business that has been blooming

for generations. The oil is produced in limited quantities, and the name and design were inspired by the grandfather’s old stories and his love of olives. When the grandfather (affectionately called dida) went olive picking, he always carried large jute sacks which he filled with olives, so the design is appropriate. The packaging is made from textile reminiscent of jute. It is tailored according to the shape of the bottle it adorns, and features a logo with grandpa’s walking stick as the main detail. As an added bonus: the sack and label protect the contents from the sun. The design is signed by the Manasteriotti & Marić Studio and it has been multiply awarded (Sudnji Dan 2012 - design of the year, 2013 Print Portfolio Review Award, Print Magazine (release), 2014 Communication Arts (release), Lovely Package (release), Behance Branding Served, the Dieline (release) + the Dieline Top 10 of the Week).

We have another winner: Oleum Viride

Zimsko kuhano vino / Winter Mulled Wine dizajn / design: Romana Kajp

olive oil was awarded the international Red Dot and Croatian Cropak awards. It is extra virgin olive oil made by the Belić family, and its design inspired by beautiful shades of oil is signed by top class product designer Ksenija Jurinec. The colours for the label design were produced using a method of bionics and stylization of the colours of every single sort of olive in its early and late phases.

Croatia boasts a fascinating number of top quality olive oils so we present another one that looks like a real souvenir. It is Brachia Olive, contained within a white ceramic bottle inspired by the shape of an olive itself. The packaging is ecological, and the bottle itself can be utilized for other purposes later.

The concept of consuming the food itself is inspiration for our product designers: The

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Terra: eat well Terracota food serving tray is the work of Tea Radić. It is inspired by the concept of Dalmatia marenda, a meal traditionally served between breakfast and lunch, and eaten slowly, certainly not on the go. Part of this concept is resting whilst enjoying good food, which means we get to slow down. This is certainly a welcomed novelty in our all-toofast everyday life. Apart from that, the tray can also be used as a trivet.

In addition to a tray, we need an attractive kitchen cloth - and the answer is Anek! Its author, graphic designer Ana Žaja Petrak, was inspired by Dalmatia and its recognizable symbols such as fritule, maraska, plavac and mišancija. They are mostly well known gastro symbols of the Dalmatian region, its history, cuisine, winemaking and local products. It is a collection created during a cooperative process between the Croatian Design Superstore and successful food illustrator Ana Žaja Petrak.

A pallet of gastro delicacies is offered by Aroma Ragusea - a manufacturing plant founded by Maja Šikić. The plan was to revive old recipes of Dubrovnik, dating from the beginning of last century, and turn them into products with a special flavour and look. The offer consists of cookies, called baškotini, with lemon, orange and cinnamon flavours… There are also liqueurs, sugared almonds, crocants, Adriatic salt enriched with lemon, rosemary and aromatic sage, as well as natural teas.

The packaging is reminiscent of the classic houses of Dubrovnik, which can be seen along Stradun and in its vicinity.

The diversity of the offer is also hidden behind charming names, such as the exclamation OH!, which is a series of autochthonous Croatian products grown or manufactured on the island of Vis. Carefully selected eco ingredients are prepared in a traditional way, while the brand’s full name - Okusite Hrvatsku (Taste Croatia) is abbreviated and forms the positively surprised exclamation - oh! Choose from their range of jams, marmalades, fruit cookies, oils, wines and liqueurs. The design is the work of Bestias Studio.

Apart from excellent wine, in Croatia you will also most likely be offered rakija (brandy). It can be strong or less so, but it always has a specific taste and it is enriched with some sort of medicinal herb or walnuts, honey, carob…

The charming packaging is inspired by stereotypes tied to tourists as well as local customs and characters. Rakija is the specialty of Towar, and the name is similar to Tovar - the local word for a donkey. The design is signed by the famous photographer Boris Poljičanin.

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Croatia à la carte Ira Payer i tim iz Superstudija 29 / Ira Payer and Superstudio 29

Croatia: one of the natural juices on offer is Maričin Sok (Marica’s Juice) from the family farm of Marica Jug in the vicinity of Našice. Tasty natural juices are contained in packaging featuring illustrations inspired by the industrious Marica’s typical workday. The design is the work of Bruketa & Žinić.

Pepper and salt go together well: it is time for Pinch of Salt. The Manufakturist design studio is the creator of the jar that has a characteristic oval shape. It is sufficient to submerge it in sea water, leave it in the sun for a few days in order for the water to evaporate, and you get pure salt remaining in the jar!

Winter pleasures have been recreated at Dobra Berba: with the design of Winter Mulled Wine, which won the Red Dot award for visual packaging and is signed by Romana Kajp. The wine is mulled, it is available in 3 litre packages, and it consists of Cabernet Sauvignon (for red), Chardonnay (for white), as well as

Pinch of salt dizajn studio Manufakturist / Manufakturist Design Studio

cloves, vanilla, cinnamon and oranges. The recipe is signed by enologist Saša Štula. The wine is simple to prepare - it must be warmed to approximately 65 degrees Celsius and it is ready for consumption. It is equally beautiful on the outside: the charming motif reminds of the holiday season! Then there is another wonderful little thing: Croatia à la carte is a three in one package - a souvenir, a gastrogift and a board game that enhances the players’ appetite. It is ideal for everyone who likes get-togethers at home and discussions about food, and those who want to know more about Croatian cuisine. It is a fun and, quite literally, tasty way to learn about buzara, peka, mlinci, biži, bobići or hib, pašticada…

The Croatia à la carte packaging consists of a deck of playing cards with ingredients, a deck with the dishes, and an illustrated cookbook that follows the game and describes the recipes in detail. 

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OŽUJAK/ MARCH Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings ožujak-travanj/ March-April, Zagreb PISANICE ISPRED ZAGREBAČKE KATEDRALE/EASTER EGGS IN FRONT OF THE ZAGREB CATHEDRAL Ispred katedrale svetog Stjepana i ove su godine izložene velike pisanice koje su oslikali umjetnici iz Hlebina, Molva, Kloštra Podravskog, Ðurđevca i Podravkine Udruge naivnih umjetnika./Again this year, large Easter eggs painted by artists from Hlebine, Molve, Kloštar Podravski, Ðurđevac and Podravka’s Association of Naïve Artists will be exhibited in front of the Cathedral of St. Stephen. www.croatia.hr 16. 2. — 8. 5., Zagreb MENCI CLEMENT CRNČIĆ - RETROSPEKTIVA/ RETROSPECTIVE Galerija Klovićevi dvori u Zagrebu predstavlja vam izložbu djela Mencija Clementa Crnčića, kojom će se ujedno obilježiti i 150. godina od umjetnikova rođenja. Retrospektivna izložba, nakon više od dvadeset i pet godina, nudi vam novi pogled na opus toga velikog umjetnika i vrhunski umjetnički doživljaj./Klovićevi Dvori Gallery of Zagreb presents an exhibition of works by Menci Clement Crnčić which marks the 150th anniversary of his birth. More than twenty-five years after the last exhibition, this retrospective exhibition offers a new view of the artist’s opus and is a superb artistic experience. www. gkd.hr

18. 3. — 17. 4., Zagreb DALIBOR MARTINIS - IZLOŽBA/ EXHIBITION U sklopu Ciklusa site specific izložbi, specijalno osmišljenog za Umjetnički paviljon u Zagrebu, predstavljamo vam izložbu DM 2016 razgovara s DM 2077.

Dalibor Martinis pretvara izložbeni prostor u jedinstveni audiovizualni ambijent u kojem će se projicirati dvadeset kratkih filmova snimljenih u posljednje dvije godine. Filmovi su snimani na lokacijama diljem svijeta, od Rio de Janeira, Pariza, Sjedinjenih Američkih Država do Ukrajine./As part of the series of site-specific exhibitions which has been specially designed for the Art Pavilion in Zagreb, the exhibition entitled DM 2016 Talking to DM 2077 is being presented.

Dalibor Martinis transforms the exhibition space into a unique audio-visual environment in which twenty short films made in the last two years will be projected. They have been filmed at different locations throughout the world - from Rio de Janeiro, Paris, the United States of America to the Ukraine. www.umjetnicki-paviljon.hr TRAVANJ/APRIL Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings travanj-listopad/ April-October ZAGREBAČKI VREMEPLOV/ THE ZAGREB TIME MACHINE Na zagrebačkim ulicama u proljeće možete uživati u nizu događaja koji nas vraćaju u prošlost grada. Srest ćete pjevače starogradskih pjesama, boeme, šestinske kumice, a iz paviljona će dopirati zvuci valcera i tanga, baš

kao nekad…/ During the spring, one can enjoy an array of events on the streets of Zagreb which take us back to the city’s past. We’ll meet singers of old city songs, bohemians and the kumice of Šestine, while the sounds of waltzes and tango will emit from the pavilion, just like back in the day… www.zagreb.touristinfo.hr 21.- 24.4., Zagreb 25. DANI HRVATSKOG FILMA/ 25th DAYS OF CROATIAN FILM U kinima Europa i Tuškanac prikazuje se i vrednuje jednogodišnja domaća filmska produkcija, a program obuhvaća različite filmske vrste. Uz festival u Puli to je središnji filmski događaj kad je riječ o domaćoj kinematografiji./Cinemas Europa and Tuškanac will feature screenings of the year’s domestic film production, and the program will include various kinds of films. Along with the Pula Festival, it is the central film event in terms of domestic cinema production. www.lupiga.com 25.4.-8.5., Zagreb FESTIVAL SV. MARKA/ ST. MARK’S FESTIVAL Festival se već tradicionalno održava na zagrebačkom romantičnom Gornjem gradu. Počeo je poprimati obilježja međunarodnoga glazbenog događaja s idejom jačanja srednjoeuropskoga glazbenog ozračja. Uspjehu Festivala sv. Marka pridonose i inozemni glazbenici koji su, uz naše domaće, sudionici tog osobitog događanja./Traditionally, the festival is taking place at Zagreb’s romantic Upper Town.It has taken on characteristics of an international music event, with the idea of strengthening the central European music environment. The international as well as local musicians who partake in this special event are certainly a great contribution to the success of St. Mark’s Festival. www.festivalsvmarka.hr 26. 4. - 29.5. 2016.

DALIBOR JELAVIĆ - KRITIČKA RETROSPEKTIVA/ A CRITICAL RETROSPECTIVE 1976 - 2016 Moderna galerija u sklopu ciklusa Slikarske retrospektive Moderne galerije predstavlja izbor od 120 ponajboljih ostvarenja iz opusa Dalibora Jelavića.

Umjetnikov opus tvori jednu od najdojmljivijih vertikala suvremene hrvatske

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konkretne i apstraktne umjetnosti.

Izložba će se u jesen održati i u Splitu./ As part of the Painting Retrospectives of the Modern Gallery cycle, the Modern Gallery will present a selection of 120 of the best works from the opus of Dalibor Jelavić. The artist’s opus is one of the most impressive pillars of contemporary concrete and abstract art in Croatia. The exhibition will also be held in the autumn in Split. www.moderna-galerija.hr

Rijeka i okolica / Rijeka and surroundings 9. - 10.4., Opatija FESTIVAL KAVE/ A FESTIVAL OF COFFEE Najbolji hrvatski i europski baristi poslužit će vam omiljeni aromatični napitak pripremljen na različite načine.

Uz ispijanje najkvalitetnije kave i kušanja slastica na bazi kave, ovaj festival nudi vam i popratna događanja./The best Croatian and European baristas will serve you this aromatic beverage prepared in different ways. Apart from coffee of the highest quality and tasty bites based on coffee, the festival also offers an array of concurrent events. www.visitopatija.com 13.-16.4.

4 ISLANDS MTB ETAPNA UTRKA/ THE 4 ISLANDS MTB STAGE RACE Adria Bike Four Islands etapna je brdska biciklistička utrka koja se sastoji od više etapa na 4 kvarnerska otoka: Krk, Rab, Cres i Lošinj. U četiri dana utrke, sudionici će voziti oko 270 km po različitoj konfiguraciji terena i proći najljepšim lokacijama na otocima./Adria Bike Four Islands is a mountain bike * Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara * This schedule is valid until February 15th. Allow for changes after this date.

race consisting of multiple stages on 4 islands in the Kvarner archipelago: Krk, Rab, Cres and Lošinj. During the four race days, participants will ride roughly 270 kilometres across various terrains, and they will pass the most beautiful locales on the islands. www.visitlosinj.hr Dubrovnik i okolica / Dubrovnik and surroundings 8. - 10. 4., Dubrovnik 5. AKLAPELA FESTIVAL/ 5th AKLAPELA FESTIVAL Na festivalu će se predstaviti najbolje hrvatske klape koje njeguju izvorno klapsko pjevanje. Klapska pjesma, koji je zaštitio Unesco kao nematerijalnu kulturnu baštinu čovječanstva, odjekivat će povijesnim Lazaretima, a nedjelja je rezervirana za sakralni klapski program u dominikanskoj crkvi./The festival will feature performances by the best klapa of Croatia which nurture the original klapa style of singing. Klapa songs, recognized and protected by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage, will resonate through historic lazarettos, while Sunday is reserved for a sacral klapa program at the Dominican church. www.aklapela.hr 9. -17. 4., Lapad MEĐUNARODNI TENIS TURNIRI/ INTERNATIONAL TENNIS TOURNAMENTS Međunarodno sportsko događanje u Dubrovniku, koje brojem sudionika i zanimanjem sportske javnosti potvrđuje status prestižnoga teniskog turnira za mlađe generacije./This is a prestigious international sporting event in Dubrovnik. The number of participants and the interest of the sporting public are a confirmation of its status as a prestigious tennis tournament for younger generations. www.tzdubrovnik.hr 25.4. -1. 5., Dubrovnik 3. DUBROVNIK FESTWINE/ The 3rd DUBROVNIK FESTWINE U sklopu ovogodišnjeg festivala posjetitelji će moći degustirati vrhunska vina priznatih vinara i družiti se s njima, sudjelovati na vinskim radionicama s priznatim enolozima i sommelierima, te kušati domaće delicije dubrovačkih restorana sljubljene s najboljm vinima dubrovačkog kraja./At this year’s edition of the festival, visitors will have the opportunity to taste exquisite wines by renowned wine makers, but also socialize with them personally, partake in wine workshops with renowned enologists and sommeliers, as well as taste local delicacies prepared by Dubrovnik’s restaurants and complemented by the best wines of the Dubrovnik region. www.dubrovnikfestiwine.com

30. 4. -1. 5. 2016.

DUBROVAČKI POLUMARATON/ THE DUBROVNIK HALF-MARATHON Ruta dubrovačkog polumaratona duga je oko 21 km. S motom Više od utrke to je događanje više od sporta.

Promiče zdravi stil života u zagrljaju povijesnih spomenika i klapske pjesme te blagoslov zaštitnika grada sv.

Vlaha./The route of the Dubrovnik halfmarathon is approximately 21 kilometres long. Under the theme More than a Race, this event is more than just sport. It promotes a healthy lifestyle in the embrace of historic monuments and klapa songs, and the blessing of the patron saint of the city - St. Blaise. www.du-motion.com Osijek i okolica / Osijek and surroundings

SVIBANJ/MAY Zagreb i okolica/Zagreb and surroundings 1.-30. 5.

URBANOVO Posjetite Urbanovo, enogastronomsku manifestaciju koja se održava u slikovitom krajoliku Međimurja. Počinje Festivalom pušipela, koji je, uz ocjenjivanje, degustacije i vinske radionice autohtonog vina, poznat i kao mjesto za poslovne susrete vinarske i turističke branše./ Visit Urbanovo, an enogastronomic event taking place in the picturesque landscape of Međimurje.

It all begins with the Festival of Pušipel, featuring evaluations, tastings and autochthonous wine workshops. The festival is known as a place for business meetings in the wine making and tourism branches. www.urbanovo.hr 3.-8. 5., Zagreb 3. TJEDAN DIZAJNA ZAGREB/ 3rd ZAGREB DESIGN WEEK Najveće događanje u Hrvatskoj posvećeno dizajnu. Nastoji povezati dizajnere i gospodarstvenike te popularizirati dizajn u javnosti. Središnji program održava se u galeriji Lauba i na više lokacija u središtu Zagreba./ This is the biggest event in Croatia devoted to design. Zagreb Design Week seeks to connect designers and businesses and popularise design among the public. The main part of the programme is held at the Lauba Gallery and at several locations in the very centre of Zagreb. www.tjedandizajna.com/2016 28. i 29.5., Lukavac 29. - 31. 7., Pićan 09. i 10. 7., NP Krka LEGENDFESTIVAL/ LEGENDFESTIVAL Posjetiteljima se prikazuju legende, mitovi i priče preko multimedijalnog i interaktivnog spoja prostora, vremena

i stila. Festival je obiteljski orijentiran, privlačan je djeci i posjetiteljima koji se mogu uključiti u radionice te sudjelovati u predstavi./ Visitors are shown legends, myths and stories through an interactive multimedia mix of space, time and style. The festival is oriented towards families, and it is especially attractive to kids and visitors who can take part in the workshops and participate in a play. www.legendfest.hr 30.5.-5.6.

FLORAART 2016./ FLORAART 2016 Međunarodna vrtna izložba Floraart najveći je hortikulturni događaj u ovom dijelu Europe, koji okuplja brojne domaće i strane izlagače, a izložbu posjete tisuće posjetitelja. U sklopu Izložbe održavaju se brojna predstavljanja i različita tematska predavanja namijenjena posjetiteljima te natjecanje. Tradicionalno se organizira i prigodna prodaja cvijeća./ The Floraart international garden exhibition is the largest horticultural event in this part of Europe, and it brings together numerous domestic and foreign exhibitors, while it is visited by thousands of members of the public. The exhibition also features numerous promotions and various themed lectures aimed at all visitors, as well as a competition.

As usual, the sale of flowers is also organized on this occasion. www.zrinjevac.hr

6. - 8. 5.,Vukovar FESTIVAL DUHOVNE GLAZBE BONOFEST/ BONOFEST FESTIVAL OF SPIRITUAL MUSIC Bonofest počinje svetom misom u crkvi sv. Filipa i Jakova. Na tom festivalu predstavljaju se izvođači duhovne glazbe i potiču tekstopisci i skladatelji na pisanje novih duhovnih skladbi.

Drugi dan festivala za mlade će biti organiziran obilazak mjesta stradanja u Vukovaru./ Bonofest begins with a holy mass at the Church of St. Philip and Jacob. This festival presents performers of spiritual music and encourages songwriters and composers to make new spiritual music. On the second day of the festival, the young participants will have the opportunity to embark on an organized tour of the war memorials in Vukovar. www.laudato.hr Pula i okolica / Pula and surroundings 12.-14.5.

FESTIVAL VISUALIA/ THE VISUALIA FESTIVAL Festival se održava četvrtu godinu i privlači veliku pažnju. Riječ je o audiovizualnom festivalu koji promiče nove i manje poznate vizualne izričaje i dizajna rasvjete. U gradu su postavljene različite svjetlosne i zvučne instalacije, a u kasnim večernjim satima doživjet ćete nestvarne audiovizualne efekte./ The festival is taking place for the fourth consecutive year and it has attracted great attention. It is an audiovisual festival which promotes new and lesser known visual forms of expression and light design. The city is scattered with various light and sound installations, and in the late hours of the evening passers-by will experience surreal audiovisual effects. www.pulainfo.hr CROATIA AIRLINES

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WINE DAY U ISTRI/ WINE DAY IN ISTRIA Ovaj događaj obilježavaju istarski vinari u vinskim podrumima u povodu svjetskog Dana vina. Stoga dođite toga dana u Istru i uživajte u kvalitetnom vinu./ This event is marked by the wine makers of Istria in their wine cellars in order to commemorate global Wine Day. Make sure to visit Istria on this date and enjoy excellent wine. www.istra.com Zadar i okolica / Zadar and surroundings 8.5., Zadar WINGS FOR LIFE GLOBALNA UTRKA/ WINGS FOR LIFE GLOBAL RACE Utrka Wings for Life World Run održava se na šest kontinenata i trideset četiri lokacije. Svi sudionici trče u isto vrijeme. Ove će godine utrka biti rekordna, a uplaćeni iznos startnine namijenjen je zakladi Wings for Life, koja prikuplja novčana sredstva za provođenje istraživanja radi pronalaska lijeka za leđnu moždinu./ The Wings for Life World Run is taking place on six continents in thirty four locations. All the participants run at the same time.

This year’s race will be record breaking, and the proceeds from the entry fees will all be donated to the Wings for Life foundation, which is raising money to research a cure for spinal cord injury. www.wingsforlifeworldrun.com

zornica nastupaju izvođači koji izvode rock, pop, world music, elektroničku glazbu..../ The INmusic festival is the largest open-air festival in Croatia.

It takes place at the end of June at Jarun Lake. Rock, pop, world music and electronic music performers play on multiple stages. www.inmusicfestival.com

nastupaju umjetnici različitih talenata koji toplo i iskreno ožive zagrebačke trgove i ulice./ This is the first international street festival in Zagreb. Artists of various talents perform on numerous stages, warmly and honestly invigorating Zagreb’s streets and squares. www.cestisdbest.com 6.- 11.6.

ANIMAFEST ZAGREB 2016./ ANIMAFEST ZAGREB 2016 Svjetski festival animiranog filma drugi je najstariji filmski festival potpuno posvećen animaciji. Pokrenut je na temelju ugleda autora Zagrebačke škole crtanog filma. I za ovu godinu najavljuje predstavljanje animiranih filmova različitih dužina trajanja./ The world festival of animated film is the second oldest film festival entirely dedicated to animation. It was started thanks to the reputation of the authors of the Zagreb School of Animated Film. Once again, this year, it will feature animated films of various lengths. www.animafest.hr

Rijeka i okolica / Rijeka and surroundings 28.- 29.5., Selce 6. FESTIVAL JAGODA/ THE 6TH STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL Proljeće je idealno vrijeme za opuštanje u prirodi i uživanje u njezinim plodovima. Posjetite crikveničku rivijeru i uživajte u slatkim jagodama.

Očekuje vas zabavni program, domaći proizvodi od jagoda te druga slatka iznenađenja./ Spring is the ideal time to relax in nature and enjoy its fruits.

Visit the Crikvenica Riviera and enjoy sweet strawberries. You can expect an entertainment program, homemade products made of strawberries and other sweet surprises. www.rivieracrikvenica.com LIPANJ/JUNE Zagreb i okolica / Zagreb and surroundings 1.-30.6.

CEST IS D’BEST Prvi ulični festival međunarodnog obilježja u Zagrebu. Na više pozornica

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17.- 19.6.

16. MEĐUNARODNI FESTIVAL VATROMETA/ THE 16th INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF FIREWORKS I ove se godine na Bundeku održava festival vatrometa, na koji svake godine dolazi sve više posjetitelja iz Hrvatske ali i susjednih zemalja./ Again this year, Bundek will be the venue for a fireworks festival which has been attracting increasing numbers of visitors from Croatia as well as the neighbouring countries. www.bundek.com 20..- 22.6..

INMUSIC FESTIVAL/ THE INMUSIC FESTIVAL INmusic festival najveći je open-air festival u Hrvatskoj. Održava se potkraj lipnja na jarunskom jezeru. Na više po-

1.-30. 6., PICOKIJADA Picokijada je poznata manifestacija koja se od 1968. g. održava u gradu Đurđevcu. Središnji je događaj Legenda o Picokima, scenski spektakl s osobitim pirotehničkim i scenskim efektima, koji ima uporište u povijesnim zbivanjima 16. st., a govori o hrabrim i snalažljivim ljudima koji su nadmudrili silnu tursku vojsku./ Picokijada is a famous event that has been taking place since 1968 in Đurđevac. The central event is the Legend of Picoki, a stage spectacle with excellent pyrotechnics and other stage effects which is based on the historic events from the 16th century when the brave and resourceful locals outsmarted the mighty Turkish army. www.croatia.hr Pula i okolica / Pula and surroundings 9.- 12.6., Pula DANI ANTIKE - PULA SVPERIORVM/ DAYS OF ANTIQUITY - PULA SVPERIORVM Ovaj će vam događaj približiti dio antičke tisućljetne povijesti grada i njegove okolice. Sve se odvija na antičkim trgovima i u prostorima izvrsno očuvanih antičkih građevina, uz bogat program.

Atraktivna je i borba gladijatora koja se održava u Areni./ This event will familiarize visitors with the ancient thousand year history of the city and its surroundings. Everything takes place on ancient squares and in excellently preserved antique structures, and the event features a diverse program.

There is also an attractive gladiator battle that takes place in the Arena. www.pulasuperiorum.com 1.-30.6., Rovinj DOLCE VITA FESTIVAL/ THE DOLCE VITA FESTIVAL Ljubitelji vintage kulture imaju priliku doživjeti istinski retro doživljaj u glazbi, filmu, dizajnu, modi, plesu i hrani.

Festival posjetiteljima nudi originalan, inspirativan i bogat glazbeni program, vrhunsku zabavu, te kulturni i gastronomski užitak. Uz glazbeni program, izložbu oldtimera i vespi te vintage namještaja i vinila, uživat ćete u ugođaju pedesetih i šezdesetih godina./ Fans

of vintage culture have the opportunity to have a real retro experience through music, film, design, fashion, dance and food. The festival offers visitors an original, inspirational and diverse music program, top class entertainment, as well as cultural and gastronomic pleasures. Apart from the music program, visitors will also have the opportunity to enjoy the atmosphere of the 1950s and 1960s during the exhibition of classic cars and Vespas, as well as vintage furniture and vinyl records. www.croatia.hr Rijeka i okolica / Rijeka and surroundings 9.-11.6., Rijeka 17. FIUMANKA/ THE 17th FIUMANKA Jedanput godišnje iz svih krajeva svijeta okupljaju se jedriličari na regati Velika Fiumanka, koja se održava na ruti od Rijeke do Omišlja i natrag. To je neizostavan događaj za sve ljubitelje jedrenja./ Once a year, yachters from all over the world come together for the Great Fiumanka regatta which follows the route from Rijeka to Omišalj and back. It is an essential event for all aficionados of sailing. www.fiumanka.eu 15. 6., Rijeka PROSLAVA BLAGDANA SV. VIDA/THE CELEBRATION OF THE DAY OF ST. VITUS Svake godine 15. lipnja obilježava se blagdan sv. Vida, zaštitnika Rijeke, kad se u crkvici održava bogoslužje uz hodočašće. Također, u gradu se održavaju različite sportske, kulturne i zabavne manifestacije./ June 15th of every year is marked as the day of St. Vitus, the patron saint of the city of Rijeka, and a liturgy and pilgrimage take place at the church. On this occasion the city also hosts various sporting, cultural and entertainment events. www.najboljeuhrvatskoj.info Dubrovnik i okolica / Dubrovnik and surroundings 9. - 12. 6., Dubrovnik LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU THEATRE/ LE PETIT FESTIVAL DU THEATRE Osobit kulturni događaj na kojemu se predstavljaju umjetnici iz cijeloga svijeta. Svake godine podiže se zastor otkrivajući kreacije talentiranih pjesnika, glumaca i plesača./ This is a special cultural event which presents artists from all over the world. Each year the curtain is raised revealing creations carefully made by talented poets, actors and dancers. www.lepetitfestival.com

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DESIGN DISTRICT ZAGREB 2016 POTICAJ KREATIVNOM RAZVOJU GRADA

Piπe/By Marija Kata Vlašić Fotografije/Photos Marija Gašparović

A BOOST TOWARDS THE CREATIVE DEVELOPMENT OF THE CITY Od 16. do 19. lipnja u Zagrebu će se prvi put održati inspirativno dizajnersko događanje nazvano Design District Zagreb, čija je ideja podržati buđenje urbane zone u istočnom dijelu središta grada i njezina spontanog profiliranja kao nove uzbudljive kreativne četvrti.

From the 16th to the 19th of June, the first Design District Zagreb event will be held in Zagreb. The idea of this inspirational event is to support the urban development of the eastern part of the city centre and its spontaneous profiling as a new exciting and creative neighbourhood.

Croatian Design Superstore jedno je od vibrantnih točaka Martićeve ulice The Croatian Design Superstore is one of the vibrant points of Martićeva street

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rom the 16th to the 19th of Zagreb, for the first time, an inspirational design event will take place by the name of Design District Zagreb, whose idea is to support the awakening of the urban zone in the eastern central area of the city and its spontaneous profiling as a new, exciting and creative neighbourhood. In the zone whose artery is Martićeva street, earlier known for numerous automotive shops, in the past few 146

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years many design and architectural studios, art galleries, concept stores, designer hostels and interesting cafés have settled in, making this part of the city, thanks to its irresistible charm and creative changes, become an inevitable destination for tourist visitors in Zagreb.

The initiative of Design District Zagreb was created at the Croatian Design Superstore, an ambitious designer platform which, after several temporary selling exhibitions of the best of

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četvrti čija je žila kucavica Martićeva ulica, prije poznata po brojnim trgovinama autodijelova, posljednjih su se godina skrasili mnogi dizajnerski i arhitektonski studiji, umjetničke galerije, koncepttrgovine, dizajnerski hosteli i zanimljivi kafići pa sada taj dio grada, zbog neodoljiva šarma kreativne promjene, postaje nezaobilaznim odredištem turističkih posjetitelja Zagreba.

Inicijativa Design District Zagreb nastala je u Croatian Design Superstoreu, ambicioznoj dizajnerskoj platformi koja je, nakon održanih nekoliko putujućih prodajnih izložbi najboljeg domaćeg dizajna, također svoju stalnu adresu pronašla u Martićevoj ulici i vrlo brzo odlučila mobilizirati susjedstvo i suradnjom osnažiti stvaralačke potencijale.

U suradnji s Turističkom zajednicom Grada Zagreba i Uredom za strategijsko planiranje i razvoj Grada te svim protagonistima kreativne scene četvrti, agilni kolektiv Croatian Design Superstorea osmislio je festival posvećen vrijednim dizajnerskim, arhitektonskim, umjetničkim, modnim i gastronomskim iskustvima i praksama te kulturi življenja.

Očekujte pop-up galerije i trgovine, urbane vrtove i piknike, umjetničke instalacije, aktiviranje napuštenih i neiskorištenih prostora, dvorišta, garaža i krovova, poticajne dizajnerske natječaje, kreativnu ugostiteljsku ponudu, zanatske i edukativne radionice te mnogo drugih uzbudljivih aktivnosti. Za više informacija i cjelokupni program događaja posjetite www.designdistrict.hr.

domestic design, found its permanent address in Martićeva street, and very quickly decided to mobilize the neighbourhood, strengthening its creative potential through collaboration.

In cooperation with the Zagreb Tourist Board and the Office for Strategic Planning and Development of the City and all of the protagonists of the neighbourhood’s scene, the agile collective of the Croatian Design Superstore stands behind the organization of the festival dedicated to worthy designer, architectural, art, fashion and gastronomical experiences, as well as lifestyle practices. Expect popup galleries and shops, urban gardens and picnics, art installations, the activation of abandoned and unused spaces, courtyards, garages and rooftops, encouraging design competitions, a creative bar and restaurant offer, crafts and educative workshops, and many more exciting activities. For more information and the entire program visit www. designdistrict.hr.

Arhitektonska baština četvrti iz modernog razdoblja, uz ostale je specifičnosti predstavljena u Design District Guidebooku The Modernist era architectural heritage of the neighbourhood is presented in the Design District Guidebook, along with other characteristics of the zone

U četvrti žive i iz nje profesionalno djeluju značajni arhitektonski i dizajnerski studiji, novinari, umjetnici i drugi predstavnici kreativne industrije In the neighbourhood there live and work a number of significant architectural and design studios, journalists, artists and other representatives of creative industries

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ZAPAMTITE DATUM / SAVE THE DATE

18. 09. 2016.

POSTANI MODERNI GLADIJATOR U JEDINSTVENOJ ZAVRŠNICI UTRKE: U ARENI FINISH LIKE A MODERN GLADIATOR IN THE UNIQUE FINISHLINE: THE ARENA U povijesnoj gradskoj jezgri Pule, u kojoj su stari rimski amfiteatar, Augustinov hram i mnogi drugi spomenici, na samoj obali Jadranskog mora, i ove godine održat će se veliko finale drugog europskog prvenstva IRONMAN TriClub.

In the historical centre of Pula, the location of the Roman amphitheatre, the Temple of Augustus and many other monuments, precisely along the coast of the Adriatic Sea, the grand finale of the second European IRONMAN TriClub Championship will be held again this year.

Fotografije/Photos: Dragan Stojkic

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IRONMAN - što je to? IRONMAN 70.3 jest triatlonska utrka World Triathlon Corporation (WTC), koja se sastoji od polovice udaljenosti IRONMAN utrke (140.6). Prvo natjecanje triatlonske utrke IRONMAN udaljenosti 140.6 održano je 1978. godine na Havajima. IRONMAN je danas registrirani zaštitni znak World Triathlon Corporation (WTC) sa sjedištem u Tampi/Florida. WTC je 2006. godine dodao seriju IRONMAN 70.3 - utrke na pola udaljenosti. Na IRONMAN 70.3 utrkama se 1,9 km pliva, 90,1 km se vozi biciklom, a kao završna disciplina trči se polumaraton (21,1 km). Utrka IRONMAN 70.3. dobila je naziv po ukupnoj udaljenosti od 113 km, što odgovara 70.3 milje. Za cijeli događaj u povijesnoj gradskoj jezgri Pule značajna je jedinstvena lijepa povijesna kulisa, okružena više od 2000 godina starim amfiteatrom (Arenom), Augustovim hramom i mnogim drugim spomenicima na samoj obali plavog Jadrana te brojnom domaćom i međunarodnom publikom.

Pula je i ove godine domaćin finala IRONMAN European TriClub Championship. Najbolji europski triatlon klubovi natjecat će se 18. rujna u Puli, slikovitom hrvatskom gradu na obali, na velikom finalu drugog europskog prvenstva IRONMAN TriClub.

Djelatnici Croatia Airlinesa, sudionici utrke / Croatia Airlines' athletes

IRONMAN - what is this? IRONMAN 70.3 is a triathlon race under the rules and rights of the World Triathlon Corporation (WTC). It is the half distance of an IRONMAN - full distance race (140.6). The first IRONMAN triathlon race was held 1978 in Hawaii. In 2005, WTC instituted the IRONMAN 70.3 race series. This half distance course is named after a full distance of 113 km, known as a HALF IRONMAN, consists of a 1.2-mile (1.9 km) swim, 56-mile (90 km) bike ride, and 13.1-mile (21.1 km) run and corresponds to 70.3 miles. Meanwhile the IRONMAN triathlon logo is a trademark of the World Triathlon Corporation (WTC), headquartered in Tampa / Florida. The WTC has also registered the trademark IRONMAN Triathlon for its athletic competitions. The trademark also extends to the use of 140.6 and 70.3, the respective distances for a FULL and HALF IRONMAN. Significant for the event in the historic town of Pula is the unique beautiful historical scenery, surrounded by the more than 2.000 years old amphitheater (ARENA), the Temple of Augustus and many other monuments on the coast of the blue Adriatic Sea and competing among a number of domestic and international audience. Also this year Pula is host of THE FINAL for the IRONMAN European TriClub Championship. Best European triathlon clubs (Triclubs) will compete on 18th of September in Pula, picturesque Croatian town on the banks of the grand finale of the second IRONMAN TriClub European Championship.

BESPLATAN ULAZ U ARENU - jedinstveni cilj za sve sportaše. Svi ste pozvani da budete na ciljnoj liniji i bodrite sve atletičare koji stižu na cilj te tako i natjecateljima osigurate ne-zaboravno iskustvo ulaska u Arenu.

FREE ENTRY IN THE ARENA - the unique finish line for all athletes We invite you all to be a part of the event. Be at the finish line and cheer all triathletes and ensure them an unforgettable experience of entering the Arena.

Pula je jedinstvena po mnogočemu, ali završiti IRONMAN 70.3 utrku u rimskom amfiteatru privilegija je koju atletičari nikada neće zaboraviti. Povijesna kulisa savršeno je mjesto za finale europske IRONMAN TriClub-serije te se veselimo što ćemo najboljim Age-Group atletičarima Europe zaželjeti dobrodošlicu u Hrvatskoj - riječi su direktora IRONMAN 70.3 Pula, Igora Ribarića, koji je i ekskluzivni vlasnik licencije IRONMAN za Hrvatsku. Pulski Ironman 70.3, godine 2015., s čak 1900 natjecatelja iz oko 60 zemalja svijeta, bio je rasprodan.

Pula is unique in many ways, but to finish an IRONMAN 70.3 race in the Roman amphitheater is of privilege, that the athletes will never forget. The historical backdrop is the perfect place for the finals of the European IRONMAN TriClub-series and we look forward to the best age-group athletes of Europe to welcome in Croatia, said IRONMAN 70.3 Pula Race Owner, Igor Ribaric, who is the exclusive IRONMAN licensee for Croatia. Last year's race was SOLD OUT with approx. 1.900 athletes from about 60 countries from all over the world.

IRONMAN 70.3 PULA AMBASSADOR DEJAN PATRCEVIC

1st CROATIAN CERTIFIED IRONMAN U COACH PRO-ATHLETE ARCHITECT, HUSBAND & FATHER OF 3 SONS

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www.facebook.com/ironmanpula

PODRŽALI SMO WE HAVE SUPPORTED

Hrvatsko rukometno čudo

The Croatian handball miracle

Na ovogodišnjem Prvenstvu Europe u rukometu u Poljskoj, hrvatski rukometaši, od milja zvani i Kauboji, pokazali su i dokazali svima kako su čuda moguća. Ne događaju se, doduše, često, no zato se valjda čudima i zovu.

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At the this year’s European Handball Championship, the Croatian handball team, affectionately known as Cowboys, showed and proved to everybody that miracles are possible. They do not occur often, but that is probably why they are called miracles.

Piπe/By Mato Pejić Fotografije/Photos Nenad Reberšak

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riča je to gotovo pa filmska, priča o rukometnoj velesili koja je drastično pomladila reprezentaciju pa ju je, bez ikakvih nadanja da je medalja dostižna, poslala na rukometni EURO. U bitku je krenulo nešto malo veterana i poprilično golobradih mladića, i to pod vodstvom novog selektora, taman da ih se na put isprati s popriličnom skepsom. Nakon prvih nekoliko utakmica činilo se da skeptici imaju pravo, da od bitke za medalju nema ništa.

Trebalo je, naime, za ulazak u polufinale pobijediti domaćine Poljake s više od 11 zgoditaka razlike. Nemoguće!? Zato se čuda i zovu čuda, jer nemoguće čine mogućim. Ivan Stevanović, Mirko Alilović, Manuel Štrlek, Antonijo Kovačević, Ivan Ćupić, Zlatko Horvat, Ilija Brozović, Krešimir Kozina, Marino Marić, Marko Kopljar, Luka Šebetić, Domagoj Duvnjak, Igor Karačić, Luka Cindrić, Marko Mamić, Ivan Slišković i Jakov Gojun izašli su na teren pred više od deset tisuća grlenih poljskih navijača, vođeni selektorom Željkom Babićem, i pobijedili s

nevjerojatnih 14 razlike! Naslovnice svjetskih novina govorile su o ludim Hrvatima, novinari pisali kako se na terenu sportske dvorane u Krakowu dogodila povijest. Ali možda bi bilo mudrije kazati da se u Krakowu dogodila budućnost hrvatskoga i svjetskog rukometa, budućnost koja je, ako je suditi po osvojenoj brončanoj medalji, nesumnjivo sjajna.

Osjetili su to i hrvatski građani, pa pripremili brončanim rukometašima doček dostojan prvaka. Bronca je zasjala zlatnim sjajem.

Na stotine navijača čekalo je rukometaše na zagrebačkom aerodromu, tražilo autograme, molilo za selfie, a na tisuće ih je zajedno s Kaubojima pjevalo na zagrebačkom Trgu bana Jelačića. Došli su građani pozdraviti mladost, pohvaliti trud te se pokloniti osebujnom selektoru koji uporno poručuje - ne želim biti hit, ni popularan, niti na televiziji, ali želim Hrvatskoj donijeti radost. Pa su je i donijeli, a donosit će je, nema sumnje, još dugi niz godina. Jer, kako rekoše svi stručnjaci redom, Hrvatska

ima reprezentaciju za idućih deset godina, momke koji će sljedećih godina voditi velike bitke s europskim prvacima Njemcima i polufinalistima Norvežanima, reprezentacijama jednako mladima, poletnima i odlučnima.

O svakome od članova hrvatske rukometne ekspedicije mogla bi se napisati mala i lijepa priča, priča u kojoj je odricanja i ljubavi prema sportu i prema zemlji koju predstavljaju.

No, ako će se po ovome sportskom čudu jednom uistinu snimati film, glavni junaka trebao bi ipak biti naš golman Ivan Stevanović.

Onaj kojega od milja zovu Stiv ali i Deda, jer najstariji je član ove reprezentacije i jer je u dobi od 33 godine debitirao u reprezenatciji pa imao na prvenstvu 34 posto obrana, i to onih ključnih zbog kojih se medalje i osvajaju. Stevanović je najbolji dokaz da nikada ne treba odustajati od svojih želja i ciljeva, da se upornost na kraju uvijek isplati.

Ali odmora za rukometaše nema. Pred brončanim su herojima kvalifikacije na kojima valja zaslužiti let na Olimpijske igre u Riju de Janeiru. Nakon poljskog čuda valjda i nema onoga tko u plasman ne vjeruje. Nema sumnje da će hrvatska predsjednica Kolinda Grabar Kitarović i opet pohitati na odlučujuću utakmicu pa među navijače, onako kako je žestoko navijala gledajući s tribina čudo u Krakowu.

A što god da se u Riju dogodi, jedna velika pobjeda, ako ne i najveća, već je izvojevana; dječaci na igralištima diljem Hrvatske igraju rukomet! Rastu tako neki novi klinci, neki novi Kopljar, Gojun, Duvnjak, Stevanović....

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heir story is almost worthy of a film scenario; the story of a handball superpower which drastically rejuvenated its team and sent them off to the handball EURO, without any hope that they could win a medal. A few veterans and a lot of young men went into battle under the leadership of a new coach everything was in place for a rather sceptical send-off. After the first few games it seemed that the sceptics had been right; there was indeed no hope for a medal-round ticket.

Namely, to get into the finals they had to beat the Polish hosts with an advantage of more than 11 goals! Impossible? Well, this is why

Predsjednica RH Kolinda Grabar Kitarović bodrila je hrvatske rukometaše na odlučujućoj utakmici Croatia’s President Kolinda Grabar Kitarović supported the Croatian handball team during the crucial match

miracles are called miracles, because they turn the impossible into the possible!

Ivan Stevanović, Mirko Alilović, Manuel Štrlek, Antonijo Kovačević, Ivan Ćupić, Zlatko Horvat, Ilija Brozović, Krešimir Kozina, Marino Marić, Marko Kopljar, Luka Šebetić, Domagoj Duvnjak, Igor Karačić, Luka Cindrić, Marko Mamić, Ivan Slišković and Jakov Gojun appeared on the court facing more than ten thousand loud Polish supporters. They were led by their coach Željko Babić and they won with an incredible 14-goal advantage! The front pages of newspapers worldwide spoke about the crazy Croats; journalists wrote that history had been written in the Krakow sports hall.

However, it may have been wiser to say that what happened in Krakow was the future of Croatian and world handball, and if one is to judge by the bronze medal the team took home from the championship, that future is undoubtedly splendid.

Croatians felt it too, and they prepared a champions’ welcome for the bronze medal winners. The bronze shone with golden splendour. Hundreds of supporters waited for the handball players at Zagreb Airport; asking for their autographs, wanting to take selfies with them, while thousands sang with the Cowboys in Zagreb’s Ban Jelačić Square.

Citizens came to hail the youth, to honour their effort and to bow before their rather peculiar coach whose message has always been the same: I do not want to be a hit, nor popular, nor a television celebrity. I want to bring joy to Croatia. And they did, and they will continue to do so for a number of years to come, there is no doubt about that. All the experts are in

agreement that Croatia has a national team for the next ten years, that these lads will fight fierce battles against the European champion Germans and the semi-finalist Norwegians, teams which are equally young, vigorous and determined.

A little and charming story could be written about each and every member of the Croatian national handball team, and each would talk about sacrifices and love for the sport and the country they represent. However, if this sports miracle ever becomes a movie theme, the main hero should be the goal keeper Ivan Stevanović. His nickname is Stiv or Deda (Grandpa) because at the age of 33 he is the oldest member of the team and he made his debut at the championship and managed 34 per cent saves, which were crucial for winning the medal. Stevanović is the best proof that one should never give up on their dreams and goals, and that perseverance always pays off in the end.

However, the handball players cannot afford to sit on their laurels. The bronze medal heroes are facing qualifications for a ticket to the Olympic Games in Rio. After the Polish miracle there is hardly anyone who does not believe that they will qualify. There is no doubt that Croatian President Kolinda Grabar Kitarović will again rush to the decisive game and join supporters in enthusiastic cheering like she did from the stands in Krakow. And whatever happens in Rio, a big battle, if not the biggest, has already been won: boys on playgrounds all over Croatia are playing handball! Thus, a new generation of youngsters is growing, a new Kopljar, Gojun, Duvnjak, Stevanović…

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PODRŽALI SMO WE HAVE SUPPORTED

Koncert Maksima Mrvice A concert by Maksim Mrvica ∑ Croatian Rhapsody ima status Miles & More Senator (Star Gold).

Ističe kvalitetu usluge na našim letovima te na letovima drugih kompanija Star Alliancea i naš je vjeran putnik.

Upravo stoga, taj je karizmatični i talentirani umjetnik, potkraj 2015. godine, izabran za zaštitno lice Croatia Airlinesa u kampanji Star Alliance Bespoke.

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edan od najuspješnijih hrvatskih glazbenika, pijanist Maksim Mrvica, nastupio je 16. veljače u zagrebačkoj dvorani Vatroslava Lisinskoga. Publika je uživala u jedinstvenom nastupu Maksima Mrvice i njegova pratećeg sastava s kojim dijeli najveće svjetske pozornice. Na koncertu je Maksim izveo svoja najpoznatija crossover djela i predstavio novi album Croatian Rhapsody, kompilaciju najpopularnijih izvedbi u modernom produkcijskom aranžmanu. Bio je to neprocjenjiv doživljaj.

S obzirom na to da su mu putovanja zrakoplovom gotovo svakodnevica, Maksim Mrvica

ne of the most successful Croatian musicians, pianist Maksim Mrvica, performed on February 16th at Zagreb’s Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall. The audience enjoyed a unique performance by Maksim Mrvica and his band with which he has shared some of the world’s greatest stages. At the concert, Maksim performed his most popular crossover pieces and presented his latest album - Croatian Rhapsody, a compilation of his most popular pieces in a modern production arrangement.

It was a unique experience indeed.

Since flying is practically an everyday occurrence for him, Maksim Mrvica has the status of a Miles & More Senator (Star Gold). He points out the quality of service on board our flights, as well as flights of other Star Alliance member companies, and he is our loyal passenger.

That is why this charismatic and talented artist was chosen as Croatia Airlines’ brand ambassador for the 2015 Star Alliance Bespoke campaign.

Hrvatski pijanist Maksim Mrvica, svjetski poznati izvođač klasične crossover glazbe, često putuje našim zrakoplovima. Ima status Miles & More Senator (Star Gold). Na fotografiji je s predsjednikom Uprave Croatia Airlinesa Krešimirom Kučkom.

Šime Lugarov

Croatian pianist Maksim Mrvica, the worldrenowned classical crossover musician, often travels on our aircraft. He has the status of a Miles & More Senator (Star Gold).

The photograph shows Maksim Mrvica and Krešimir Kučko, Croatia Airlines’ President & CEO.

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THE WHOLE WORLD IS AT MY FINGERTIPS, THANKS TO CROATIA AIRLINES AND STAR ALLIANCE. THE WAY I LIKE TO TRAVEL.

Maksim Mrvica, World renowned pianist, Miles & More Senator and Star Alliance Gold Status

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D. Fabijanić

SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 157 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED

160 NOVOSTI NEWS

162 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 165 FLOTA FLEET 167 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 169 ZRA»NE LUKE AIRPORTS 170 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 172 ADRESE S. Jungić

ADDRESSES

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THE WAY WE’RE TURNING OUR LOUNGES INTO A LOCAL EXPERIENCE Share your experience next time you visit. #irecommend

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Miles & More

Osnove programa Mi­les & Mo­re

Introducing Mi­les & Mo­re

Mi­les & Mo­re vode­Êi je pro­gram na­gra­i­va­nja put­ni­ka u Eu­ro­pi i nu­di Ëla­no­vi­ma ra­zli­Ëi­te mo­guÊ­no­sti pri­kup­ lja­nja mi­lja i ko­ri­πte­nja na­gra­da, kao i mno­ge priv­laË­ne po­god­no­sti. »la­no­vi pri­kup­lja­ju mi­lje ko­ri­ste­Êi se uslu­ga­ma broj­nih par­tne­ra u pro­gra­mu.

Mi­lje se bi­lje­æe za le­to­ve svih Ëla­ni­ca Star Al­li­an­cea i dru­gih kom­pa­ni­ja par­tne­ra, ali i za unaj­mlji­va­nje vo­zi­la, od­sje­da­nje u ho­te­li­ma ili po­tro­πnju pre­ko kre­dit­nih kar­ti­ca Mi­les & Mo­re.

Miles & More is the leading frequent flyer programme in Europe, offering its members numerous possibilites for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many at­trac­ ti­ve pri­vi­le­ges.

Mem­bers col­lect mi­les by using the ser­vi­ces of many par­tners in the pro­gram­me.

Mi­les are cre­di­ted for flig­hts of all Star Al­li­an­ce mem­bers and ot­her air­li­ne par­tners, but al­so for ren­ting ve­hi­cles from rent-a-car par­tners or sta­ying in par­ti­ci­pa­ting ho­tels.

Ra­zre­di Ëlan­s­tva i po­god­no­sti Koriπtenjem usluga partnera u programu Miles & More prikupljate nagradne milje koje se mogu iskoristiti za nagrade. Statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status, na temelju kojega ostvarujete pogodnosti, prikupljaju se na redovitim letovima prijevoznika Croatia

Ti­ers and be­ne­fits By using the Mi­les & Mo­re par­tners’ ser­vi­ces mem­bers col­lect awards. Status miles which determine a member’s membership status and privileges can be accrued on scheduled flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa CROATIA AIRLINES

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Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Germanwings, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Lufthansa Regional, Luxair, SWISS, i svim Star Alliance partnerima.

Uz 35.000 sta­tu­snih mi­lja pri­kup­lje­nih u jed­noj ka­len­dar­ skoj go­di­ni, ste­Êi Êe­te sta­tus Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler, a za 100.000 sta­tu­snih mi­lja u ka­len­dar­skoj go­di­ni oËe­ku­je vas sta­tus Se­na­tor. »la­no­vi ko­ji pri­ku­pe naj­ma­nje 600.000 HON Cir­cle mi­lja u ra­zdob­lju od dvi­je uza­stop­ne ka­len­ dar­ske go­di­ne, stje­Ëu sta­tus HON Cir­cle.

Regional, Luxair, SWISS, and all Star Alliance partners.

Every mi­le ac­cru­ed is re­cor­ded as both a sta­tus and an award mi­le.

With 35,000 sta­tus mi­les col­lec­ted in one ca­len­dar ye­ar mem­bers acquire the Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler sta­tus, with 100,000 sta­tus mi­les the Se­na­tor sta­tus, and mem­bers who col­lect at le­a­st 600,000 HON Cir­cle mi­les wit­hin two con­se­cu­ti­ve ca­len­dar ye­ars, acquire the HON Cir­ cle sta­tus.

Po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus − 25 posto više nagradnih, statusnih i HON Circle mi­lja - ne­o­gra­ni­Ëe­na va­lja­no­st na­grad­nih mi­lja za tra­ja­nja sta­ tu­sa - pred­no­st na li­sti Ëe­ka­nja - pri­ja­va za let (check in) na πal­te­ru po­slov­nog ra­zre­da - veÊi iznos prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji te razredu prijevoza. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa dva komada prtljage u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu.

Fre­qu­ent Tra­vel­ler pri­vi­le­ges - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus of 25 % for award, status and HON Circle miles - Ac­cru­ed award mi­les ha­ve no ex­piry da­te - Wa­i­ting li­st pri­o­rity - Check-in at the Bu­si­ne­ss Cla­ss co­un­ter - Increased free baggage allowance depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in total (Economy or Business).

Po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa Se­na­tor - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus − 25 posto više nagradnih i statusnih HON Circle mi­lja - ne­o­gra­ni­Ëe­na va­lja­no­st na­grad­nih mi­lja za tra­ja­nja sta­ tu­sa - pre­du­jam od 50.000 nagradnih mi­lja - upo­ra­ba Luf­than­sa Se­na­tor Lo­un­ge te Star Gold Lo­ un­ge par­tne­ra u Star Al­li­an­ceu - vi­πi pri­o­ri­tet na li­sti Ëe­ka­nja - pri­ja­va za let (check in) na πal­te­ru prvog ra­zre­da - osi­gu­ra­no mje­sto na le­tu za re­zer­va­ci­je do 48 sa­ti u najvišoj klasi knjiženja u ekonomskome i poslovnom razredu - prednost pri ukrcaju i iskrcaju prtljage - dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa dva komada prtljage u ekonomskom, tri komada prtljage u poslovnom razredu - 2 e-vouchera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade), prilikom postizanja statusa Senator te prilikom svake obnove statusa.

- Senator Premium Award - Companion Award

Se­na­tor pri­vi­le­ges - Exe­cu­ti­ve Bo­nus of 25% for award, status and HON Circle miles - Ac­cru­ed award mi­les ha­ve no ex­piry da­te - Miles advance of up to 50,000 award miles - Ac­c e­s s to the Luf ­than­s a Se­n a­tor Lo­u n­g e as well as to the Star Gold Lo­u n­g es of Star Al­li­a n­c e par­tners - High wa­i­ting li­st pri­o­rity - Fir­st Cla­ss check-in - Bo­o­king gu­a­ran­tee up to 48 ho­urs before departure in the highest booking class in Business and Economy class - priority baggage handling - An additional bag depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in Economy, 3 bags in Business - 2 e- Upgrade Vouchers on achieving Senator status and for every Senator status renewal.

- Senator Premium Award - Companion award

Po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa HON Cir­cle - sve po­god­no­sti sta­tu­sa Se­na­tor, najviša prednost na listi Ëekanja - pre­du­jam od 100.000 nagradnih mi­lja - Sta­tus Se­na­tor za su­pru­æni­ka ili par­tne­ra, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - 6 e-vouchera za premještaj u viši razred putovanja (upgrade) prilikom postizanja statusa HON Circle te prilikom svake obnove statusa - dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odrediπtu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa dva komada prtljage u ekonomskom, tri komada prtljage u poslovnom razredu

HON Cir­cle pri­vi­le­ges - All exi­sting Se­na­tor pri­vi­le­ges highest waiting list priority - 100,000 mi­les in advan­ce - Se­na­tor sta­tus for yo­ur spo­u­se or par­tner depending on the airline - 6 e- Upgrade Vouchers when becoming an HON Circle Member and every time the status is extended - An additional bag depending on destinations, airline and booking class. On flights operated by Croatia Airlines 2 bags in Economy, 3 bags Business

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Tro­πi­te mi­lje

Spend mi­les

Pri­kup­lje­ne na­gradne milje za­mje­nju­je­te za mnoge na­gra­ de: nagradne zrakoplovne kar­te, pre­mje­πtaj u vi­πi ra­zred pu­to­va­nja (up­gra­de), ra­zli­Ëite nagrade ko­ji­ma se mo­æe­te ko­ri­stiti pri pu­to­va­nju (Miles & More hotelski partneri, Miles & More rent-a-car partneri), kupnju te u Lufthansa WorldShopu.

You can ex­chan­ge col­lec­ted award mi­les for awar­ds pre­pa­red for you: flight awards, upgrades, various travel awards (Miles & More hotel partners, Miles & More car rental partners), shopping and lifestyle awards, and Lufthansa WorldShop.

Za­tra­æi­te svo­ju Di­ners Club Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes kre­dit­nu kar­ti­cu!

Ap­ply for yo­ur Di­ners Club Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes cre­dit card!

5 ku­na = 1 nagradna mi­lja − za sva­kih 5 ku­na po­tro­ πe­nih pre­ko ove kar­ti­ce, bi­lje­æi vam se 1 na­grad­na mi­lja

5 HRK = 1 award mi­le − for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you col­lect 1 mi­le

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n Pri­kup­ljaj­te na­grad­ne mi­lje svuda − jed­no­stav­no pla­ Êaj­te svo­jom Di­ners Club kar­ti­com na bi­lo ko­jemu od 12,000.000 DC pro­daj­nih mje­sta u zem­lji i ino­zem­s­tvu.

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Col­lect award mi­les ever ­y whe­re − sim­ply pay with yo­ur Di­ners Club Card in any of 12 mil­li­on DC of­fi­ces in Cro­a­tia or abro­ad

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n 2 kar­ti­ce − 1 ra­Ëun Mi­les & More − ko­ri­stite li se isto­ dob­no pri­vat­nom i po­slov­nom kar­ti­com Di­ners Clu­ba i Cro­a­tia Air­li­ne­sa, pri­kup­lje­ne na­grad­ne mi­lje zbra­ja­ju se na va­πemu ra­Ëu­nu Mi­les & Mo­re.

n 2 cre­ d it car­d s − 1 Mi­les & Mo­re mem­b er­s hip ac­co­unt − use yo­ur pri­va­te and bu­si­ne­ss card to col­lect award mi­les on the sa­me mem­ber­ship ac­co­unt.

Zatražite svoju VISA Croatia Airlines kreditnu karticu!

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card!

Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club nude i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu.

Potroπnja od 14 kuna u Hrvatskoj na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu Miles & More milju, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paketu 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club offer a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Za­tra­æi­te svo­ju Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes American Express kre­ dit­nu kar ­ti­cu!

Ap­ply for yo­ur Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes American Express cre­ dit card!

4 ku­ne = 1 nagradna mi­lja − za sva­ke 4 ku­ne po­tro­πe­ne pre­ko Pre­mi­um kar­ti­ce bi­lje­æi se 1 na­grad­na mi­lja, od­no­ sno za sva­kih 5 ku­na po­tro­πe­nih pre­ko Stan­dard kar­ti­ce

n 4 HRK = 1 award mi­ le − for every 4 HRK spent via Pre­mi­um card, you col­lect 1 award mi­le, and for every 5 HRK spent via Stan­dard card you col­lect 1 mi­le.

2500 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce − za no­ve osnov­ne Pre­mi­ um ko­ri­sni­ke i 1250 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce za no­ve do­dat­ne Pre­mi­um ko­ri­sni­ke

n 2.500 wel­co­me mi­les − for new ba­ sic Pre­mi­um card users and 1.250 wel­co­me mi­les for new ad­di­ti­o­nal Premi­ um card users.

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1500 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce za no­ve osnov­ne Stan­dard ko­ri­sni­ke i 750 mi­lja do­bro­do­πli­ce za no­ve do­dat­ne Stan­ dard ko­ri­sni­ke

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Dvo­s­tru­ke na­grad­ne mi­lje − za po­tro­πnju u po­slov­ni­ca­ ma Cro­a­tia Air­li­ne­sa i PBZ Card Travel American Expressa

1.500 wel­co­me mi­les − for new ba­sic Stan­dard card users and 750 wel­co­me mi­les for new ad­di­ti­o­nal Stan­ dard card users.

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Earn do­u­ble award mi­les − using the card to pay for tra­vels at Cro­a­tia Air­li­nes sa­les of ­fi­ces and PBZ Card Travel American Expressa.

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n Besplatno uËlanjenje u Priority Pass program koji vam omoguÊava pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama (uz naknadu za pristup).

Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

n Free Priority Pass programme enrollment − it enables you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges (visit charge applicable).

Please find detailed info at: www.miles-and-more.com

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NOVOSTI U LJETNOM REDU LETENJA Croatia Airlines tijekom ljetnog reda letenja (27. ožujka - 29. listopada 2016.) nudi vam veći izbor putovanja unutar Hrvatske te između inozemnih i domaćih odredišta. Naše smo letove nastojali prilagoditi vašoj povećanoj potražnji tijekom ljetne turističke sezone. Nudimo vam kvalitetne sezonske letove po povoljnim cijenama kako biste što brže i udobnije stigli do željenih odredišta.

Novost je da ćemo u ovogodišnjem ljetnom redu letenja, svaki utorak, izravno povezivati Dubrovnik i Pulu. U Dubrovnik također možete poletjeti iz Zagreba, Osijeka i Splita. S našim atraktivnim Dubrovnikom, tijekom ljeta, povezivat ćemo i mnoge europske gradove Pariz, Nicu, Rim, Veneciju, Amsterdam, Atenu, Frankfurt, Düsseldorf i Zürich.

Novost je također da ćemo povezivati Zagreb i otok Brač, svaki utorak i subotu.

A Pulu ćemo, svaku srijedu, povezivati s Zürichom.

U međunarodnom prometu naši će zrakoplovi izravno povezivati Zagreb i Prag - utorkom, četvrtkom, subotom i nedjeljom.

Također će povezivati Zagreb i Milano, utorkom, petkom i nedjeljom; Zagreb i Lisabon, ponedjeljkom, srijedom i petkom; te Zagreb i Sankt-Peterburg, četvrtkom i nedjeljom.

Croatia Airlines i ovog će ljeta povezivati hrvatske gradove s Atenom (ponedjeljkom, utorkom, srijedom, četvrtkom, subotom i nedjeljom) i Barcelonom (utorkom, četvrtkom i nedjeljom).

Podsjećamo, povoljnije zrakoplovne karte za sve naše letove i sve informacije možete pronaći na www.croatiaairlines.hr, u Kontakt centru (tel. 072 500 505 i 01 6676 555), te u svim poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa.

NOVELTIES IN THE SUMMER TIMETABLE During the summer flight schedule (March 27th - October 29th 2016), Croatia Airlines offers a better choice of travels within Croatia as well as between foreign and domestic destinations. We strive towards adapting our flights according to the increase in demand over the summer tourist season. We offer quality seasonal flights at affordable prices in order for you to reach your destination in comfort and as quickly as possible.

The novelties of this year’s summer timetable are direct flights between Dubrovnik and Pula on Tuesdays. There will also be flights to Dubrovnik from Zagreb, Osijek and Split. Throughout the summer, our attractive Dubrovnik will also be connected with many 160

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other European cities - Paris, Nice, Rome, Venice, Amsterdam, Athens, Frankfurt, Düsseldorf and Zürich.

In international traffic, our aircraft will fly directly between Zagreb and Prague on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays.

We will also introduce flights between Zagreb and Milano on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays; between Zagreb and Lisbon on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays; and Zagreb and Saint Petersburg on Thursdays and Sundays.

This summer, Croatia Airlines will fly again, between Croatian cities and Athens (on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays) and Barcelona (on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays).

Cheaper airline tickets for all our flights and all information can be found online at www. croatiaairlines.com, via the Contact Centre (tel. 072 500 505 and 01 6676 555), as well as at all Croatia Airlines offices.

KORISTITE SE NAŠIM NOVIM USLUGAMA Kako bismo vam olakšali planiranje i realizaciju putovanja, unaprijedili smo naše usluge. Na vašim mobilnim uređajima preuzmite novu aplikaciju Croatia Airlinesa i uživajte u novim mogućnostima.

Naša nova mobilna aplikacija omogućit će vam kupnju zrakoplovnih karata, prijavu za let (check-in) i primitak ukrcajne propusnice (boarding pass) u obliku bar koda. U sklopu nove aplikacije također su vam dostupne i druge važne informacije u vezi s putovanjem, kao što su provjera reda letenja, statusa leta ili pak pregled posebnih ponuda Croatia Airlinesa.

Navedene mogućnosti dostupne su i na kompanijskoj mobilnoj stranici m.croatiaairlines.hr Također je unaprijeđena naša usluga web check-ina, odnosno mogućnost prijave za let preko kompanijske web stranice www. croatiaairlines.hr. Prijava za let preko naše

web stranice odsad je, uz polazne, dostupna i za transferne letove.

Star Gold Track također je naša nova usluga kojom se putnicima poslovnoga i prvog razreda te vlasnicima Star Gold kartice omogućuje brži i jednostavniji prolazak kroz sigurnosne preglede i kontrolu putničkih dokumenata u zračnoj luci. Usluga je također dostupna u mnogim zračnim lukama diljem svijeta, odnosno u trideset regionalnih čvorišta Star Alliancea.

USE OUR NEW SERVICES In order to make planning and the realization of your trip easier, we have improved our services. Download the new Croatia Airlines application via your mobile phone and enjoy the new possibilities.

Our new mobile application enables you to buy airline tickets, check-in and receive boarding passes in the form of a bar code. The new application also features other important information regarding your flight, such as flight schedules, flight status and an overview of Croatia Airlines’ special offers. The aforementioned features are also available on the company’s mobile page, m.croatiaairlines.hr Our web check-in service, in other words the possibility of checking in for a flight via the company’s website www.croatiaairlines. com, has also been improved. Checking in via our website is now available for departures as well as transfer flights.

Star Gold Track is another new service that allows our business and first class passengers, as well as Star Gold Card holders, quicker and easier passage through security and passport checks at the airport. This service is also available at numerous airports around the world, in other words at all thirty regional Star Alliance hubs.

ODABERITE CROATIA AIRLINES AMERICAN EXPRESS KARTICU Donesite pravu odluku i odaberite novu Croatia Airlines American Express karticu, koja će vašu kupnju i putovanja učiniti ugodnijima.

Nova kartica omogućuje vam potrošnju bez unaprijed određenog limita, kao i mogućnost izbora razdoblja u kojemu želite plaćati svoje račune.

Novom karticom možete kupovati na više od 55.000 prodajnih mjesta u Hrvatskoj te na prodajnim mjestima u više od dvjesto zemalja. Važno je naglasiti da su korisnici Croatia Airlines American Express kartice besplatno osigurani od posljedica nesretnog slučaja dvadeset četiri sata na dan.

Volim putovati!

Novi korisnici kartice automatski postaju članovi programa Miles & More i dobivaju povlastice koje članstvo donosi. Svakodnevna potrošnja, svaki vaš let te korištenje usluga partnera u programu Miles & More bit će nagrađeni miljama na vašem Miles & More računu. To je najbrži način skupljanja milja, a svakom miljom bliže ste željenom putovanju.

Više o pogodnostima kartice saznajte na: www.croatiaairlines. com/hr/Miles-and-More CHOOSE THE CROATIA AIRLINES AMERICAN EXPRESS CARD Make the right decision and choose the new Croatia Airlines American Express card, which will make your shopping and travels much more pleasant.

The new card permits spending without a previously determined limit, as well as a choice of the period in which you wish to Cpay your bills.

M The new card can be used in more than 55 thousand stores in Y Croatia as well as stores in more than two hundred countries. UsCM ers of the Croatia Airlines American Express card have free twenty MY four hour a day accident insurance.

New card holders automatically become members of the Miles & CY More program and they gain all of the benefits of this membership.

CMY Daily expenditure, each flight and usage of services in the Miles & K More program will be awarded with miles on your Miles & More account. It is the quickest way to accumulate miles, and each mile is a step closer to a desired journey.

More info about the benefits of the card can be found online at www.croatiaairlines.com/hr/Miles-and-More MEĐU 10 SMO NAJBOLJIH KOMPANIJA NA SVIJETU Croatia Airlines najbolja je aviokompanija u svijetu po kriteriju ispunjavanja prava putnika prema istraživanju Air Helpa, tvrtke specijalizirane za ocjenu kvalitete civilnoga zračnog prijevoza i pomoć putnicima u ostvarivanju njihovih prava. Prema tom kriteriju naša je tvrtka dobila najvišu ocjenu, a u ukupnom poretku, u kojem se ocjenjivalo zadovoljstvo putnika kvalitetom usluge, točnost letenja te ispunjavanje putničkih prava, Croatia Airlines zauzeo je visoko 8. mjesto. Istraživanje je provedeno među putnicima diljem svijeta.

CROATIA AIRLINES AMONG 10 BEST COMPANIES IN THE WORLD According to research conducted by Air Help, a company that specializes in evaluating the quality of civilian air transport and helping passengers in realizing their rights, Croatia Airlines is the best airline in the world in terms of fulfilling passenger rights. Based on the criteria, our company received the highest marks, while Croatia Airlines ranks eighth overall in terms of passengers’ satisfaction with the quality of service, punctuality and fulfilling passengers’ rights. The research was conducted among passengers worldwide.

Kada i gdje god želiš...

Kupi aviokartu, prijavi se za let, spremi boarding pass i otputuj u željenu destinaciju!

Nova aplikacija također omogućuje provjeru reda letenja, statusa leta, posebnih ponuda te pruža sve informacije koje su vam potrebne prije leta.

Preuzmi Croatia Airlines aplikaciju i organiziraj svoje putovanje brzo i jednostavno, koristeći mobilni uređaj.

072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555

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RU»NA PRTLJAGA

Sluπalice za suzbijanje buke Digitalni audio/MP3 ureaj n ElektroniËke igre n e-ËitaË n Prijenosna/Notebook raËunala n Prijenosni DVD/CD ureaj n Bluetooth ureaji n Kamere n Medicinski ureaji n ElektriËni brijaÊi aparat n n

P. Strmečki

Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike ekonomskog razreda: 1 komad n maksimalna teæina 8 kg n zbroj dimenzija do 115 cm (55x40x20) Dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga za putnike poslovnog razreda: 2 komada n maksimalna teæina 8 kg po komadu n zbroj dimenzija maksimalno 115 cm (55x40x20) ili 57x54x15cm (etui za odijela) Radi ograniËenog spremiπnog prostora u putniËkoj kabini te kada je veÊa popunjenost zrakoplova, i dopuπtena ruËna prtljaga bit Êe Ëekirana i spremljena u prtljaæni prostor.

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima.

Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije.

Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije.

UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama.

Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

RED SJEDENJA

D. Fabijanić

Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo.

UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima.

PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja.

Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

ELEKTRONIČKI URE�AJI U RUČNOJ PRTLJAZI Upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja dopuπtena je iskljuËivo u zrakoplovnom radu, teæe i veÊe ureaje potrebno je pospremiti dok je upaljen znak obveznog vezivanja.

Popis dopuπtenih elektroniËkih naprava: n Mobilni/Smart telefoni n Tablet raËunala

ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva.

USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U naπim zrakoplovima posluæujemo hranu i napitke bez naplate.

U poslovnom razredu na svim letovima usluga ukljuËuje birana hrvatska jela, alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te izbor domaÊega i stranog tiska.

U ekonomskom razredu usluga ovisi o vrsti i duljini leta.

Na domaÊim letovima posluæuje se samo voda, a na meunarodnim letovima usluga se sastoji od snacka i ponude piÊa.

Na veoma kratkim letovima putnicima nudimo samo vodu, a na duljim letovima u ponudi su alkoholna i bezalkoholna piÊa te topli napitci.

IskljuËivo u poslovnom razredu moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed (vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed).

Putnicima nije dopuπteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Alkoholiziranim putnicima ne posluæuju se alkoholna piÊa.

Puπenje je zabranjeno tijekom boravka u zrakoplovu. Toaleti su opremljeni detektorima dima. 

Faze leta u kojima je dopuštena upotreba elektroniËkih ureaja Faze leta Mobilni/

Smart telefoni, Tablet

Prijenosno raËunalo

Sluπalice za suzbijanje buke

Funkcija teksta/razgovora

Ukrcavanje

DA

DA

DA

DA

Kaπnjenje u polasku

DA

DA

DA

DA

Taksiranje za polijetanje

DA

NE

DA*

NE

Polijetanje DA

NE DA*

NE

Tijekom leta

DA

DA

NE

Spuπtanje

DA

NE DA*

NE

Slijetanje

DA

NE

DA*

NE

Taksiranje

DA

NE

DA*

DA

DA

*U navedenim fazama nije dopuπteno rabiti sluπalice prikljuËene na audio/MP3 ureaje

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CROATIA AIRLINES

DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our first and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests.

With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services.

Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight.

Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight.

HAND BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE Economy Class passengers: 1 piece n max. weight 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) Business Class passengers: 2 pieces n max. weight per piece 8 kg n total sum of dimensions up to 115 cm (55x40x20) or 57x54x15cm if it is a foldable garment bag Due to a limited storage space and when a flight is fully booked even approved carry-on baggage will be checked-in and stowed in cargo compartments.

S. Jungić

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in.

Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing.

n

RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage.

Such items are: explosives, flammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons, firearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers.

IN-FLIGHT SERVICES

Please read the instructions below, important for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

SEAT ASSIGNMENT

e-Readers Laptop/Notebook computers n Portable DVD/CD player n Bluetooth devices n Personal cameras n Assistive medical devices n Electric shaver n

PERSONAL ELECTRONIC DEVICES Electronic devices may only be used if they are in flight mode. Bulky personal electronic devices must be securely stowed whenever the seat belt sign is turned on.

List of approved personal electronic devices: n Mobile/Smart phones n Tablet computers n Noise-cancelling headphones n Digital audio/MP3 player n Electronic games

We serve food and beverages free of charge in our aircraft.

In business class on all flights the services include a choice of Croatian foods, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, as well as a choice of domestic and foreign print media.

Our services in economy class depend on the type and length of the flight.

On domestic flights we serve only water, and on international flights our services include snacks and an offer of beverages.

On very short flights our passengers are offered only water, and on longer flights they are offered alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages as well as hot drinks. In business class only you can order a special meal when purchasing your tickets, however, this must be done at least 24 hours ahead (vegetarian, Muslim, diet, but kosher meals must be ordered 48 hours ahead).

Passengers are not allowed to consume their own alcoholic beverages. Passengers that are considered under the influence of alcohol are not served alcoholic beverages. smoking is forbidden in the aircraft. The toilets are equipped with smoke detectors. 

Use of electronic devices during different flight phases Flight phase

Hand Held PEDs (i.e. smart phones and tablets)

Larger PEDs (i.e. Laptops and notebooks)

Noise- cancelling Headphones

Text and phone functions

Boarding YES YES YES YES Extended Ground Delay YES YES YES YES Taxi-out for Take-off YES

NO YES*

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

Take-off YES

NO YES* NO

Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s

Descent YES

NO YES* NO

Landing YES

NO YES*

Taxi to Stand YES

NO YES* YES

Cruise YES YES YES

NO NO NO

*During critical phases of flight headphones must not be plugged to audio/MP3 players.

CROATIA AIRLINES

163

(Rezervacije i upiti www.sixt.hr ili 01-6651 599)

Rezervacije: partner.sixt.de/croatia-airlines 164

CROATIA AIRLINES

Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu.

Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m²/ft²)

122,40 / 1318

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

2

4

6

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

174

144

76

Airbus 320-200

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100

Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuju se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400

Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje.

Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer.

Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

CROATIA AIRLINES

165

166

CROATIA AIRLINES

•

TRONDHEIM

BERGEN ST. PETERSBURG

Aberdeen

STAVANGER

Edinburg Belfast Dublin

Manchester

VILNIUS GDANSK

BERLIN Kassel DUSSELDORF

POZNAN

Chisinau LYON

Turin

PORTO

MILAN VENICE

Genoa NICE

Madrid

OSIJEK RIJEKA

BELGRADE Bucharest

BRA» BARCELONA

Podgorica Bari Tirana

Palermo Catania

ATHENS

Beirut Damascus TEL AVIV Jerusalem Amman ■ linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services

■ u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama

in cooperation with partner airline

Partneri / Partners: Air France

Alitalia

Austrian Airlines

Brussels Airlines

KLM

LOT Polish Airlines

Lufthansa

SAS

Singapore Airlines

Swiss International Air Lines

Turkish Airlines

United Airlines

TAP Portugal

TAP PORTUGAL

Air Canada

CROATIA AIRLINES

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PAST PAST SENSE SENSE FUTURE FUTURE TENSE TENSE city in the making / grad u nastajanju city in the making / grad u nastajanju

Candidate for European Capital of Culture

Candidate for European Capital of Culture

168

CROATIA AIRLINES

AIRPORTS

Volim putovati!

I love to travel!

Dolazni terminali / Arrival terminals

Prikupljajte nagradne milje, iskoristite besplatnu uslugu hrane i pića na letu kao i pogodnost web check-ina.

Earn miles, get free drinks and snacks on board and take advantage of web check-in at no additional cost.

072 500 505, +385 1 6676 555 croatiaairlines.hr

Moja aviokompanija.

ODREDIŠTE / DESTINATION AMSTERDAM (AMS) ATHENS (ATH) BARCELONA (BCN) BELGRADE (BEG) BRUSSELS (BRU) PARIS (CDG) COPENHAGEN (CPH) DUSSELDORF (DUS) ROME (FCO) FRANKFURT (FRA) SAINT PETERSBURG (LED) LONDON GATWICK (LGW) LONDON HEATHROW (LHR) LISBON (LIS) LYON (LYS) MILAN (MXP) MUNICH (MUC) NICE (NCE) PRAGUE (PRG) PRISHTINA (PRN) SARAJEVO (SJJ) SKOPJE (SKP) TEL AVIV (TLV) BERLIN (TXL) VENICE (VCE) VIENNA (VIE) ZURICH (ZRH)

ZRAČNA LUKA / AIRPORT Schiphol Amsterdam Airport Athens International Airport Barcelona El Prat Airport Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport Brussels Airport Zaventem Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport Copenhagen Airport Düsseldorf Airport Leonardo da Vinci - Fiumicino Airport Frankfurt Airport St Petersburg Pulkovo Airport Gatwick Airport Heathrow Airport Lisbon International Airport Lyon Saint-Exupery International Airport Malpensa Airport Munich Airport Nice Côte d'Azur International Airport Vaclav Havel Airport Prague Pristina International Airport Sarajevo International Airport Skopje Alexander the Great Airport Ben Gurion International Airport Berlin Tegel Airport Venice Marco Polo Airport Vienna Airport Zurich Airport

TERMINAL terminal 3 main terminal terminal 1 terminal 2 terminal B terminal 2D terminal 2 terminal A terminal 3 terminal 1 terminal 1 terminal S terminal 2 terminal 1 terminal 1 terminal 1 terminal 2 terminal 2 terminal 1 main terminal terminal B main terminal terminal 3 terminal A, C main terminal terminal 3 terminal 2

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information

plesoprijevoz@plesoprijevoz.hr

www.plesoprijevoz.hr

ZAGREB

Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) prema Zračnoj luci Zagreb Departures daily from the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb) to the Zagreb International Airport: 5.00 - 5.30 - 6.00 - 6.30 - 7.00 - 7.30 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 10.00 - 10.30 - 11.00 - 11.30 - 12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 13.30- 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 - 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Polasci svakog dana iz Zračne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor, Držićeva bb) Departures daily from the Zagreb International Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, Držićeva bb): 7.00 - 8.00 - 8.30 - 9.00 - 9.30 - 10.30 - 11.30 -12.00 - 12.30 - 13.00 - 13.30 - 14.00 - 14.30 - 15.00 - 15.30 16.00 - 16.30 - 17.00 - 17.30 - 18.00 - 18.30 - 19.00 - 19.30 - 20.00 Za više informacija, molimo nazovite / For more information, please call: ZAGREB (01) 6331-982, 6331-999 SPLIT (021) 203-508 DUBROVNIK (020) 773-377 ZADAR (020) 250-094

RIJEKA (051) 330-207, 336-757 CROATIA AIRLINES

169

Saša Dešić

Dragi putnici!

Putujem radi novih iskustava i doživljaja.

Hvala vam na lijepim fotografijama koje dijelite s nama. Pred nama je proljeće, po mnogima najljepše godišnje doba. Nadamo se kako svoj odmor planirate s Croatia Airlinesom te kako ćete nam i dalje slati nove, zanimljive i neobične fotografije s vaših putovanja.

Uz jednu rečenicu u kojoj objašnjavate zašto volite putovati, pošaljite nam fotografiju i sudjelujte u našem nagradnom natječaju. Pobjednika ćemo nagraditi s dvije povratne aviokarte po izboru za neko od odredišta Croatia Airlinesa, a dva će dobitnika primiti poklon-pakete.

U ovom broju putnoga časopisa, dvjema povratnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa, za najbolju fotografiju nagrađujemo Vanju Kuluz. Promidžbenim poklon-paketom nagradit ćemo Sašu Dešića i Danijelu Schildenfeld.

Pozivamo vas da nam nastavite slati svoje fotografije jer vas i u idućem broju očekuju vrijedne nagrade. Posjetite našu web stranicu www. croatiaairlines.hr (Ponude/Nagradne igre i natječaji), pogledajte uvjete nagradnog natječaja i sudjelujte!

I travel for the new experiences and adventures.

Danijela Schildenfeld

Dear passengers!

Putovanje je istraživanje koje je zabavno, smiješno, stresno, mirisno, romantično i totalno dio mene i premda je svaki kraj puta bez diplome i puno pročitanih knjiga, moja osobnost i moja sjećanja konstantno postaju bogatiji.

Thank you for the lovely photographs you have been sharing with us.

Spring is just ahead of us, which according to many is the most beautiful time of the year. We hope you are planning your vacation with Croatia Airlines and you will continue sending us new, interesting and unusual photographs of your travels.

Send us your photographs accompanied by a sentence which explains why you like travelling and take part in the photo contest. We will award the first prize winner with two return tickets on Croatia Airlines to a destination of your choice, while the second and third place winners will receive promotional packages.

We have selected Vanja Kuluz as the author of the best photo in this issue; she is the winner of two Croatia Airlines return air tickets.

Saša Dešić and Danijela Schildenfeld have won promotional gift packages.

We invite you to continue sending us your photographs, because in the next issue valuable prizes await you again. Visit our web page, www. croatiaairlines.hr (Offers/Contests and competitions), review the conditions, and take part in the contest!

Volim putovanja jer mi vrag ne da mira.

I love travelling because I’m restless.

170

CROATIA AIRLINES

Vanja Kuluz

Travelling is an exploration which is entertaining, funny, stressful, full of new scents, romantic and totally a part of me. Even though journeys do not earn me a diploma nor do I read many books, my personality and my memories constantly get richer.

CROATIA AIRLINES

171

Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 6160 153 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/uprava@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 072-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske / only for calls from Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 17:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept.

Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 072 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske / only for calls from Croatia PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 616 02 46 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Bruxelles 1930 Zaventem/Brussels Airport Box 31 Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik ZraËna luka/Airport Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Frankfurt Airport Center 1 Gebäude 234, HBK 49 Hugo-Eckener-Ring 60549 Frankfurt Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London

172

Concorde North Wing, Gatwick Airport Room 332, West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-0022, Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615 London Heathrow Airport, Terminal 2A, Room A30ATE104, Level 30, Departures, Zone B, Lanside Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-4683 Fax (+44-20) 8754-7377 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr

CROATIA AIRLINES

Paris

95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Roissypôle Le Dôme, Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-40-00 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-55-11 parto@croatiaairlines.hr

Pula ZraËna luka/Airport Pula Valtursko polje 210, 52 100 Ližnjan Tel. (+385-52) 218-909, 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka 51 000 Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5 Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Rome 00054 Fiumicino Aeroporto/Airport Leonardo da Vinci Torre Uffici 2, room 518 Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo 71 000 Sarajevo ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skopje 1000 Skopje ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 3296-967, 3296-969 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split 21 000 Split ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar 23 000 Zadar ZraËna luka/Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb 10 000 Zagreb Trg Nikole Š, Zrinskog 17 Tel. (+385-1) 481--96-33 Fax (+385-1) 481-96-32 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Meunarodna zraËna luka Zagreb/ Zagreb International Airport Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 62-65-930 Zürich Hardstrasse 2, 8004 Zürich Tel. (+41-44) 2610-840 Fax (+41-44) 2610-883 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe »eπka / the Czech Republic CK Blue Sky Travel Opletalova 57, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. +420 222 222 235 Fax +420 222 220 237 czech@croatiaairlines.hr GrËka / Greece Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str., 105 57 Athens Tel. +30 210 32 17 679, 32 17 750 Fax +30 210 32 49 152 greece@croatiaairlines.hr

Kosovo Airtour Prishtina International Airport Tel. +381 38 594 111 Fax +381 38 594 222 kosovo@croatiaairlines.hr Portugal APG - Portugal Rua Tenente Espanca, nº3 − 3º A, 1050 - 220 Lisboa Tel. +351 219 100 054 Fax +351 219 100 059 portugal@croatiaairlines.hr info@apg-portugal.com SlovaËka / Slovakia CK Blue Sky Travel Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel./fax +421 2 5262 2375 slovakia@croatiaairlines.hr Srbija / Serbia INTERTRAVEL GSA Topličin Venac 19-21 11000 Beograd Tel. +381 11 310 89 69 Fax +381 11 310 89 68 ou@intertravel.rs Španjolska / Spain Global Representacion Turistica / GRT Rambla de Catalunya, 61 5º 3ª, 08007 Barcelona Tel. +34 934 875 775 spain@croatiaairlines.hr Bliski istok / Middle East Izrael / Israel Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda Street, Migdalor blgd. 12th floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. +972 3 516 7181, 516 7140 Fax +972 3 516 7174 israel@croatiaairlines.hr Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. +61 3 9699-9355, Fax +61 3 9699-9388 lidia@skyair.biz Novi Zeland / New Zealand CTtravel Limited NZ PO Box 104-056, Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Rd. Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. +64 9 837 9897 Fax +64 9 837 9898 croatiaairlines@cttravel.co.nz Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo, 105-0001 Japan Tel. +81 3 3593 6740 Fax +81 3 3593 6534 asipaxtyo@airsystem.jp Koreja / Korea Bohram Air Services 7F, Donghwa Bldg, 58-7 Seosomun-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: +82 2 754 6336 Fax: +82 2 779 8795 croatiaairlines@bohramair.co.kr Tajvan, Kina, Hong Kong / Taiwan, China, Hong Kong Pacific Express Company Limited 8F, No 137, Nanking E. Road Sec. 2, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C. Tel: +886 2 2515 2371 Fax: +886 2 2515 3463 peclpax@ms57.hinet.net