Inflight magazine CROATIA by Croatia Airlines

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VA© VLASTITI PRIMJERAK

M A G A Z I N E

2 0 1 2 / 2 0 1 3 n

YOUR PERSONAL COPY

WINTER 2012/2013

Nakladnik/Publisher Croatia Airlines Hrvatska zrakoplovna tvrtka Bani 75b, Buzin 10 010 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +385-1-616-00-66 faks +385-1-616-01-53 E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr URL: www.croatiaairlines.com

Predsjednik Uprave/President & CEO Krešimir KuËko

Glavna urednica/Editor-in-chief Ksenija Ælof

Suradnici glavne urednice/ Editor-in-chief assistants Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ i Davor JanuπiÊ

Urednik fotograﬁje/Chief in photos Damir FabijaniÊ Roman Gebauer, Miljen

Dizajn/Design Ivana IvankoviÊ PrliÊ, Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Prijelom/Layout Nenad VujoπeviÊ

Direktorica marketinga/ Director Marketing Zlata PrpiÊ

Lektorica/Proof reader Mirjana Miholek

Dobro doπli u naπ zrakoplov. SrdaËno vas pozdravljam i zahvaljujem πto letite Croatia Airlinesom. Evo nas u dijelu godine obiljeæenom blagdanima, u kojemu zacijelo mnogi od vas putuju u razliËita domaÊa odrediπta, ali i udaljene dijelove svijeta, kako bi se sastali sa svojom obitelji i prijateljima. Zadovoljstvo nam je πto vas naπi zrakoplovi povezuju s mjestima u kojima vas Ëekaju vaπi najmiliji. Zimski red letenja, koji traje do 30. oæujka 2013. godine, nastojali smo prilagoditi koliko je god moguÊe vaπim potrebama. Dok letite prema odrediπtima, vjerujemo da Êe vam vrijeme u naπem zrakoplovu proteÊi bræe, prelistate li naπ putni Ëasopis. Od udaljenih gradova u ovome, zimskom broju oduËili smo predstaviti pravi ameriËki grad, Philadelphiju, do koje vas vodimo u suradnji s naπim partnerom US Airwaysom. Nudimo tridesetak letova na tjedan izmeu Zagreba, Splita, Dubrovnika i Philadelphije, s presjedanjima u πest europskih zraËnih luka. A kao novost spominjemo uvoenje novih letova izmeu Zagreba i Istanbula svaki dan, za razliku od proπlogodiπnjega zimskog reda letenja, kad se letjelo triput na tjedan. Zbog vas, poπtovani putnici, stalno nastojimo podizati kvalitetu naπe usluge. Drago nam je πto se veÊ viπe od deset godina uspjeπno koristite naπom uslugom FlyOnLine, koju i dalje neprekidno usavrπavamo, a dobili smo i prestiæni Euro-Label certiﬁkat, kao potvrdu visokih sigurnosnih standarda koje primjenjujemo u tom segmentu naπeg poslovanja. Dakako, teæimo prema boljim rezultatima i u svim drugim podruËjima, pa Êemo uskoro poËeti s najavljenim restrukturiranjem tvrtke, πto Êe se, uvjereni smo, takoer povoljno odraziti na kvalitetu usluge koju vam nudimo. U blagdanima koji su pred nama, ali i tijekom cijele sljedeÊe godine, æelim vam mnogo lijepih trenutaka s vaπom obitelji i prijateljima. Nadam se da Êete nas i u 2013. godini prepoznati kao vaπega pouzdanog partnera te i dalje letjeti s nama. Unaprijed se tome radujem i zahvaljujem vam. Sretan vam BoæiÊ i nova godina!

Dear passengers,

Prijevod na engleski/ English translation Lancon d.o.o. Oglaπavanje/Advertising Croatia Airlines Gabrijela Lochert tel. +385-1-616-00-17 E-mail: advertising@croatiaarlines.hr

Promocija/Promotion Croatia Airlines

Welcome on board our aircraft. I would like to cordially greet you and thank you for ﬂying with Croatia Airlines. Here we are, in the part of the year marked by holidays, when many of you probably travel to various domestic destinations, but also to distant parts of the world, to meet your family and friends. We are pleased that our aircraft connect you with the places your loved ones await you. We have tried to adjust the winter ﬂight schedule, which is valid until 30 March 2013, to your needs

D. FabijaniÊ

Poπtovani putnici!

as much as possible. While flying to your destinations, we believe the time will pass by faster if you flip through our inflight magazine. Out of our distant destinations, in the winter issue of the magazine, we decided to present to you the true American city, Philadelphia, where we take you in cooperation with our partner, US Airways. We offer about thirty flights per week between Zagreb, Split, Dubrovnik and Philadelphia, with connections at six European airports. As a novelty, let us mention that we have introduced new daily flights between Zagreb and Istanbul, while during last winter’s flight schedule we had flights three times a week. Dear passengers, because of you, we continuously strive to improve the quality of our services. We are glad that you have been successfully using our FlyOnLine service for more than ten years, and we will continue to improve it. Also, we have received the prestigious Euro-Label certificate, which confirms the high safety standards applied in this segment of our operations. Of course, we strive to achieve better results in all other areas as well, so we will soon start with the announced restructuring of the company. We are sure this will also have a positive impact on the quality of the services we offer you. I wish you many special moments with your families and friends during the upcoming holidays and throughout the entire next year. I hope you will again recognise us as your reliable partner and continue flying with us in 2013. I look forward to that and am grateful. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

tel. +385-1-616-01-26 Priprema/Photolitography Zrinski d.d., »akovec

Vaš, Sincerely yours,

Tisak/Print Zrinski d.d., »akovec

ISSN 1330-6278

Krešimir KuËko President & CEO

■ SADRÆAJ 6

Razgovor: Ante RašiÊ

ZRCALO, ODRAZ UMJETNIKA U VREMENU Svestrani Ante RaπiÊ (slikar, kipar, dizajner, multimedijalni umjetnik) na hrvatskoj i svjetskoj likovnoj sceni intenzivno je prisutan gotovo Ëetiri desetljeÊa. Dobitnik je viπe znaËajnih nagrada u Hrvatskoj i inozemstvu, kako u podruËju likovnih umjetnosti, tako i dizajna. 18 Okusi Hrvatske: Slavonija

OKUSI SLAVONIJE… U poËetku sijeËnja 2013. g. nastavljamo s predstavljanjem hrvatskih krajeva i vodimo vas u naπu zlatnu æitnicu Slavoniju… 22 Gastronomija

HRANA, PIΔE I DOBRA PJESMA Kontinentalna slavonska kuhinja oduvijek je bila odraz plodne zemlje i marljivih ruku πto je obrauju, a stol je bogat kao i sama Slavonija. 34 Enologija ZLATNA VINA SLAVONIJE Slavonska su vina baπ onakva kakva oËekujete od regije obojene zlatnom bojom - bogata, raskoπna, velikoduπna, zrela i slasna. 52 Prirodne ljepote

SLAVONIJA, SKRIVENA KOLIJEVKA EUROPSKE CIVILIZACIJE Da je tisuÊama godina prije Krista ovdje bilo vrlo æivo, govore viπeslojni nalazi razliËitih kultura na jednome mjestu… 68 Kontinentalna Hrvatska

OSIJEK, JEDINSTVENI GRAD NA DRAVI O æivotu u gradu na Dravi maπtaju mnogi, jer Osijek je dovoljno velik da nudi sve πto treba za dobar æivot te grad s najviπe zelenila i zelenih povrπina u Hrvatskoj. 92 Kultura

IZIDOR KR©NJAVI, OBNOVITELJ SLAVONSKIH KORIJENA Pedeset je godina oblikovao, promicao i kao arbitar usmjeravao razvitak novije hrvatske umjetnosti i kulture, obrazovao prve velike hrvatske slikare i kipare te pokrenuo izloæbenu aktivnost. 100 Tradicija

ZAGREB URONJEN U BOÆIΔ Glavni grad Hrvatske iz godine u godinu postaje sve privlaËnije mjesto za sve koji æele osjetiti boæiÊno raspoloæenje. Srediπte grada miriπe na kuhano vino, vruÊe kobasice i fritule, vaniliju, cimet i klinËiÊe… 112 Izložba

ADVENTSKI MOTIVI U HRVATSKOJ TRADICIJI U zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt u blagdansko vrijeme posjetitelji mogu uæivati u izloæbi Advent, svojevrsnom hommageu BoæiÊu, πto nadahnuto doËarava ugoaj boæiÊnih blagdana u 19. i 20. stoljeÊu. 118 Baština

KAMENA HIMNA SLOBODI Dubrovnik je grad umjetnosti, a dubrovaËke su zidine najljepπi okvir koji moæete zamisliti. Zajedno su nastajali, razvijali se i grlili uzajamnim povjerenjem. 134 Meridijani

SUVREMENI RENESANSNI GRAD Multikulturalna, otvorena, lijepa i suvremena, Philadelphia jest Amerika. To je mjesto gdje se sreÊu ideje i odvaænost, intelekt i dosjetljivost, Ëime je osmiπljen suvremeni renesansni grad. 2

CROATIA AIRLINES

Zima/Winter 2012/2013

www.croatiaairlines.com

CROATIA AIRLINES

■ CONTENTS 6

Interview: Ante RašiÊ

A REFLECTION ON AN ARTIST IN TIME Versatile Ante RaπiÊ (painter, sculptor, designer, multimedia artist) has been intensely present on the Croatian and global artistic scenes for nearly four decades. He is the recipient of several signiﬁcant awards in Croatia and abroad, both for ﬁne arts as well as for design. 18 Flavours of Croatia: Slavonia

FLAVOURS OF SLAVONIA In the beginning of January 2013, we continue with the presentation of Croatian regions by taking you to our golden granary of Slavonia. 22 Gastronomy

FOOD, DRINK AND GOOD SONGS Continental Slavonian cuisine has always been the reﬂection of fertile soil and the hard-working people who cultivate it, and their table is just as rich as Slavonia itself. 34 Oenology

GOLDEN WINES OF SLAVONIA Slavonian wines are just what one might expect from the region saturated with golden colours − rich, luxurious, generous, ripe and tasty. 52 Natural beauties

SLAVONIA, A HIDDEN CRADLE OF EUROPEAN CIVILIZATION Life was buzzing in the area thousands of years before Christ, as testiﬁed to by the multiple layers of different cultures which all existed in the same place… 68 Inland Croatia

OSIJEK, JEDINSTVENI GRAD NA DRAVI Many citizens of the capital dream about living in this city on the Drava because it is just big enough to fulﬁl everyone’s needs and at the same time 92 Culture

IZIDOR KR©NJAVI, THE RESTORER OF SLAVONIAN ORIGIN For all of ﬁfty years, he shaped and promoted the development of recent Croatian art and culture and guided it as an arbiter, he educated the ﬁrst great Croatian painters and sculptors and he set the wheels of exhibition activity in motion. 100 Tradition

ZAGREB IMMERSED IN CHRISTMAS The Croatian capital is gaining in popularity among those who want a piece of Christmas atmosphere. The city centre smells of mulled wine, hot sausages and fritters, vanilla, cinnamon and cloves... 112 Exhibitions

ADVENT MOTIFS IN CROATIAN TRADITION During the holiday season, visitors to Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts are in for a treat: Advent at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, a homage of sorts to Christmas, and an exhibition that showcases the atmosphere of Christmas festivities in the 19th and 20th centuries. 118 Heritage

AN ANTHEM TO FREEDOM CARVED IN STONE Dubrovnik is a city of art, and its walls are the best frame you can possibly imagine for it. Dubrovnik and its walls grew up together; they developed and hugged each other with mutual trust. 134 Meridiens

PHILADELPHIA - A MODERN DAY RENAISSANCE CITY Multicultural, open, beautiful and modern, Philadelphia is America. It is the place where ideas meet valor, and intellect meets ingenuity to design a modern day renaissance city. 4

CROATIA AIRLINES

Ovo je vaπ vlastiti primjerak

This is your personal copy

CROATIA AIRLINES

■ RAZGOVOR ANTE RAŠIΔ

CROATIA AIRLINES

Piπe/By Zlatko Madžar

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

INTERVIEW ANTE RAŠIΔ ■

CROATIA AIRLINES

Svestrani Ante RaπiÊ (slikar, kipar, dizajner, multimedijalni umjetnik) na hrvatskoj i svjetskoj likovnoj sceni intenzivno je prisutan gotovo Ëetiri desetljeÊa. Posve je zaokupljen tematikom i problematikom vremena u kojem æivimo.

Versatile Ante RaπiÊ (painter, sculptor, designer, multimedia artist) has been intensely present on the Croatian and global artistic scenes for nearly four decades. He is fully preoccupied with the themes and challenges of the times we live in.

CROATIA AIRLINES

io je jedan od utemeljitelja prve Trajne zajednice samostalnih umjetnika ArTresor te Ëasopisa za arhitekturu i kulturu Oris. Njegovi radovi objavljeni su u uglednim svjetskim, Ëasopisima, publikacijama i knjigama: Graphis, Ethapes, Gallery Magazine, Print, Step inside Design i drugima, a djela mu se nalaze u stalnim postavima Moderne galerije u Zagrebu, Galerije umjetnina u Splitu i Muzeju suvremene umjetnosti u Zagrebu. Dobitnik je viπe znaËajnih nagrada u Hrvatskoj i inozemstvu, kako u podruËju likovnih umjetnosti, tako i dizajna: New York (2002., 2007., 2010.), Zürich (2009.), London (2010.), Montreal (2011.)… Radi kao redoviti profesor na Akademiji likovnih umjetnosti na preddiplomskome, diplomskome i doktorskom studiju u Zagrebu te kao kreativni direktor Studija RaπiÊ. U razgovoru koji slijedi Ante RaπiÊ predstavlja nam se kao veliki znalac i poπtovatelj proπlosti te ponajprije kao autor koji je posve zaokupljen tematikom i problematikom vremena u kojem æivimo. ■ Vaπa stvaralaËka povezanost s prirodom kao da je i sudbinski bila predodreena; Vaπa majka, ne dospjevπi pravodobno u bolnicu, doslovce Vas je rodila ∑ u prirodi... − Da! Nisam se rodio ni u bolnici, ni u obiteljskom domu, pa Ëak niti u automobilu. Pritisnuta trudovima, moja se mati s ocem pjeπice zaputila iz naπeg sela RaπiÊi u obliænju bolnicu. No kako sam ja veÊ i u trbuhu bio nestrpljiv, na svijet sam doπao dvjestotinjak metara prije bolnice ∑ po burovitu danu, usred kamenjara, ponad Modrog jezera, s ocem u ulozi babice!... Danas bi nam to moglo djelovati kao krajnje neuobiËajen performativni Ëin, no moæda je u toj imotskoj kolijevci prirode, zajedno sa æivotom, poËela i moja umjetniËka inicijacija... Ne znam je li ta imotska cesta u prirodi bila svojevrstan znak, ali upravo je to pedesetak godina posije postalo temom osobito mi dragoga, meunarodno prepoznatoga i viπestruko nagraivanog rada. Posrijedi je moja autorska dionica U oËekivanju kiπe, ostvarena u sklopu land-art projekta Bijela cesta. Taj Ëudesni projekt u labinskome Parku skulptura inicirao je kipar Josip DiminiÊ, a svoje dionice Bijele ceste dosad je ostvarilo petnaest istaknutih hrvatskih umjetnika. ■ Rodili ste se u kamenjaru Dalmatinske zagore, æivjeli u slavonskoj ravnici, a napokon ste se æivotno skrasili u urbanome Zagrebu. Mogu li se odbljesci tih razliËitih podneblja iπËitati i u Vaπemu likovnom rukopisu? − Prve i najsnaænije dojmove nosim iz rodne Dalmacije: bljesak mediteranskog sunca od kojega suze oËi, krπ i golet iz koje se niotkud

pojavljuju ljudi, bjelina kamena, morska puËina i obzor... A nakon Dalmacije, uslijedila je slavonska ravnica i unedogled ∑ zemlja i samo zemlja; pamtim svjetlucanje glatkih povrπina na brazdama svjeæe uzorane zemlje, na kojoj se jata crnih vrana goste svjetlucavim glistama... OpËinjem dinamikom toga zemljanog valovlja Slavonije, pokuπao sam ranih sedamdesetih napraviti odljev Brazda od otprilike desetak Ëetvornih metara. Iako sam napravio Ëak i kalupe u gipsu, ipak taj rad nikad nisam uspio zavrπiti! A kad sam se napokon skrasio u Zagrebu, trenutaËno me preplavila fascinacija velikim gradom ∑ tom urbanom koπnicom πto uvlaËi Ëovjeka u nevjerojatni ritam ljudskih aktivnosti, uzavrelim metropolisom koji je potpuno drugaËiji od meni najbliskije prirode. No, na moj umjetniËki rad snaæno su utjecali i crkveni ambijenti, gdje se na istome mjestu vrlo Ëesto isprepleÊu razliËiti svjetovi, katkad Ëak i kao skladni spojevi nespojivoga: sakralnoga i profanoga, produhovljenoga i banalnoga, vrhunske kultiviranosti i eklatantnog kiËa. Svoju sklonost tim (ne)pomirljivim razliËitostima iskazao sam formulacijom Od kiËa do meditacije, πto sam, dakako, izveo iz naslova paradigmatske knjige Vere Horvat PinatariÊ Od kiËa do vjeËnosti. ■ Mnogi umjetnici katkad crpe poticaje iz stvaralaπtva drugih autora, najËeπÊe svojih neposrednih predπasnika, pa nas stoga zanima moæete li nam πtogod reÊi o svojim moæebitnim uzorima. − U mojim se radovima uzori ne mogu razaznati na doslovnoj razini. Spomenem li samo IvanËiÊa, Reisera, Sedera, ©uteja, KoæariÊa, Picelja ili pak Edu MurtiÊa, odmah postaje jasno kako su posrijedi vrlo razliËite umjetniËke osobnosti, odreda jaki autori koji su me intrigirali upravo svojim osobitostima: karakterom, produkcijom, inovativnoπÊu, pomicanjem granica, nekom ludiËkom komponentom, a katkad Ëak i elementarnom stvaralaËkom slobodom, kojom su znali raspolagati. Neki od spomenutih umjetnika bili su mi profesori i kolege na Akademiji ili sam za njih dizajnirao publikacije za izloæbe i monograﬁje. Æelim vjerovati kako je u stvaralaËkom kontinuitetu novije hrvatske umjetnosti moja generacija zapravo svojevrstan most, poveznica izmeu zasluænih doajena i mladih umjetnika koji, dakako, donose impulse novoga vremena, ali bez karizme svojih prethodnika, i to ne stoga πto je nemaju, nego zato πto je taj pojam sada potpuno promijenio znaËenje. ■ »ak i Vaπi najozbiljniji monolozi Ëesto su protkani smijehom; je li humor bitan dio i Vaπe stvaralaËke prirode? ∑ Pitam se kakvi bi to umjetnost i svijet uopÊe i mogli biti liπimo li ih humora. Dobro je ako se

Ëovjek ∑ Ëak i u najteæim situacijama ∑ moæe naπaliti na tui i posebice na vlastiti raËun, jer humor je katkad najdjelotvornija terapija Ëak i u najteæim æivotnim situacijama. U mojim se radovima Ëesto pojavljuje dimenzija humora, no tu vrstu stvaralaËke duhovitosti ne bismo smjeli shvatiti u banalnome, doslovnom smislu, dakle kao neπto πto se moæe svesti tek na nepromiπljenu dosjetku. Kroz grotesku, sarkazam, ironiju ili pak neke druge oblike humora koji izmiËu uobiËajenim definicijama, doista moæemo na najbolji naËin upozoriti na neki problem, izreÊi kritiku, utjecati na promjenu miπljenja, a tako i na okoπtale svjetonazore. Humor je taj koji nas tjera na razmiπljanje u potrazi za odgovorima na ona kljuËna pitanja koja oduvijek progone Ëovjeka. To je osobita vrsta stvaralaËke, propitivaËke vedrine, koja, Ëak i kad je gorka, ipak ostaje vedrinom, jer humor uvijek bistri zamuÊeni pogled... ■ Zrcalo je Ëest motiv i tema Vaπega umjetniËkog rada. Zaπto? − Zrcala odraæavaju svijet oko sebe: prostor i predmete, ljude, krajolike, svjetlost... No zrcalo osim funkcionalne ima i simboliËku vrijednost, jer uz fiziËki lik ono doista moæe odraziti i stanje duπe. Zrcalo nam dakle omoguÊuje promatranje ËinjeniËnog svijeta, ali i samopromatranje, kontemplaciju. Stoga je zrcalo svojevrsni govor duπe, a odraz u njemu zapravo je nova stvarnost; kroza zrcalo svijet vidimo drukËije... Zrcalo je Ëest motiv u suvremenoj likovnoj umjetnosti (D. Graham, A. Kapoor, Y. Kusama, R. Horn...), no ljudska opËinjenost odrazom na uglaËanoj povrπini seæe u duboku proπlost. Najstarije zrcalo nastalo je otprilike πest tisuÊljeÊa prije Krista, a posrijedi je polirani kamen opsidijan pronaen u Anatoliji, danaπnjoj Turskoj. Renesansni arhitekt Filippo Brunelleschi otkrio je linearnu perspektivu upravo s pomoÊu zrcala, kojime se Ëesto koristio veÊ i Giotto, a poslije Leonardo, Dürer... No odraz na vodi jest najstarije i prirodno zrcalo; sjetite se samo kako je zaglavio Narcis... Bez odraza u zrcalu (sve do pojave fotografije) nikada ne bi mogli nastati majstorski autoportreti Dürera, Rembrandta, Vincenta van Gogha ili pak Fride Kahlo, a u hrvatskome pak slikarstvu ∑ sjajni radovi RaËiÊa, KraljeviÊa, Bukovca, Uzelca, Juneka, Tartaglie, IvanËiÊa... Kao objekt, ogledalo se Ëesto pojavljuje na platnima velikih slikara: Jana van Eycka, Parmigianina, Hansa Holbeina mlaeg, Velázqueza, Tiziana, Maneta, Pisassa… Dakako, i ja sam napravio mnoge ambijentalne instalacije sa zrcalima u eksterijerima i interijerima, pod nazivom 1001 pogled. To mi je tako izazovna tema da se nikako ne mogu zaustaviti, pa moram reÊi joπ i to kako su zrcala imala vaænu ulogu u knjiæevnosti (W. Shakespeare, O. Wilde...), na

ﬁlmu (A. Tarkovski, braÊa Marx, Ch. Nolan...), ali i u religijskome æivotu (u japanskom svetiπtu Shinto, posveÊenome boæici Sunca, srediπnji je objekt upravo zrcalo!). ■ Vaπ dojmljivi iskaz divljenja prema ljepoti umjetnosti uopÊe namjerno Êu prekinuti kako biste nam barem poneπto rekli o svojoj velikoj proπlogodiπnjoj izloæbi, o petodijelnom art-projektu Umjetnost je lijepa. Tijelo svetoga Sebastijana bilo je izbodeno strijelama, a u Vaπu divovsku inaËicu antiËke skulpture Apoksiomena bila su pobodena nebrojena zrcala; RaπiÊev grËki atlet oæivio je u ekstatiËnoj apoteozi, zrcaleÊi sve oko sebe... − RazmiπljajuÊi danas o svojoj velikoj izloæbi Art is Beautiful, poËinjem shvaÊati kako su mi za upuπtanje u tako golemi pothvat bili potrebni i ludost i hrabrost! Kolegama i prijateljima, koji su mi tada dobronamjerno govorili o prevelikoj riziËnosti projekta, odgovarao sam tvrdnjom da umjetnost ne moæe Ëekati, πto je ubrzo postalo Ëesto citiranom krilaticom. Izloæba me potrošila πto se svega tiËe, vjerojatno i stoga πto je napravljena u ovim teπkim vremenima recesije, apsurdnim vremenima u kojima se iole normalan Ëovjek jednostavno mora zapitati: ima li sve to ikakva smisla, jer u stvarnosti ljudi uvelike gladuju, ostaju bez posla i bivaju liπeni svake nade… UnatoË tomu, ta me izloæba uvelike obogatila kako u iskustvenome tako i u duhovnome pogledu, jer napokon sam u realitetu spoznao ono πto se ni s kojim novcem ne moæe kupiti, a to je bezuvjetna ljubav i bezrezervna podrπka mojih najbliæih ∑ supruge i sinova, obitelji i prijatelja. Ta spoznaja pokazala se vrijednom svake ærtve, a to isto, kad je o ovoj izloæbi rijeË, u podjednakoj se mjeri odnosi i na neuobiËajeno æive i vrlo emocionalne reakcije naπe posloviËno suzdræane likovne publike. Uπavπi u UmjetniËki paviljon, posjetitelji su moga gigantiziranog Apoksiomena zapanjenim pogledima odmjeravali od stopala do glave, koja je bila domalo pod samom kupolom. Izrazi tih zateËenih lica i πirom otvorenih oËiju rekli su mi sve, a ja sam sve do tog trenutka doista bio uvjeren kako se neπto takvo moæe postiÊi jedino na ﬁlmu. Dakako, ta je izloæba uzdrmala neke od ovdaπnjih aktualnih predrasuda, pogotovo kod onog dijela struËne publike koja se svikla na mentalno skuËene prostore naπe likovne produkcije, zbog Ëega je ovdaπnja percepcija popriliËno sputana nauËenim, trendovskim obrascima, onime πto je veÊ vieno, pa i kojekakvim drugim ladicama... Ali, ako se u neku od tih navikom prihvaÊenih ladica nikako ne moæe strpati neπto πto joπ ipak nije vieno, onda ∑ eto problema. Takvu je zbunjenost zacijelo izazvala i razliËitost te CROATIA AIRLINES

raspon unutar samo pet izloæenih radova, koje sam pak nastojao ujediniti u neku vrstu saæete retrospektive, referirajuÊi se pritom u dvotisuÊljetnom luku koji seæe od antike sve do umjetnosti naπeg vremena. Ako sada kaæem i to kako sam izloæbu prvotno kanio nazvati Od kiËa do meditacije, otprve Êe vam postati jasno da ja ne podnosim umjetno postavljane granice izmeu takozvane Ëiste umjetnosti i ∑ kako se to joπ kod nas moæe Ëuti ∑ komercijalne prakse podreenog dizajna. U 21. stoljeÊu meni se takve isforsirane podjele jednostavno Ëine besmislene. ■ Vi takoer negirate granice izmeu kiparstva i slikarstva, znakovito naslovljavate svoje projekte, a bijelu boju uzdigli ste do zaπtitnog znaka svog stvaralaπtva… − Po edukaciji, ja zapravo i nisam kipar, nego slikar. VeÊ od poËetka moj je slikarski rad bio vezan uz prostor i obiljeæen brisanjem granica izmeu slike i skulpture. Osim brisanja granica izmeu pojedinih umjetniËkih disciplina, izmeu umjetnosti i dizajna, spomenuo bih i projekte na kojima sam radio samostalno ili s dizajnerima Studija RaπiÊ i kolegama, a tu su pak osobito znaËajna ostvarenja Environmental dizajna, kojima smo ukinuli granice izmeu visoke i niske kulture, dakako, uspostavljajuÊi nove kriterije. Naslovljavanju svojih radova pridajem veliku pozornost, jer promiπljen naziv Ëesto moæe sugerirati problem, naglasiti ga, pa Ëak i objasniti. VeÊ iz naziva mojih radova moæe se iπËitati kako se bavim egzistencijalnim i esencijalnim problemima æivota, ali i umjetnoπÊu samom: U iπËekivanju kiπe, NoÊna mora, Novac kvari ljude, Drvo æivota, Na rubu, Ja-ja, Umjetnost je lijepa, Hrvatski Apoksiomen, Nana, volim te, Ulje na platnu… ToËno ste zapazili da je svojevrsnim zaπtitnim znakom mog stvaranja postala bijela boja, koja obiljeæava sva razdoblja moje umjetniËke aktivnosti, poËevπi od studentskih dana u ranima sedamdesetima pa sve do danas. I baπ tu bijelu boju, koja zapravo i nije boja, ja smatram ishodiπnom bojom, bojom oËiπÊenja i svetosti. Osim toga, na bijelome se sve vidi, pa tu ne moæete muljati. ■ Kako gledate na problem percepcije recentnoga likovnog stvaralaπtva? − Treba znati gledati suvremeno umjetniËko djelo. Danas to od likovne publike iziskuje i odreeni napor. Æivimo u vremenu u kojemu izmeu pojmova umjetnost i æivot stoji zapravo znak jednakosti, a sve se moæe iπËitavati i u zrcalnome slijedu; dakle: umjetnost = æivot / æivot = umjetnost! Umjetnost je sveprisutna, okruæeni smo njome, samo je treba prepoznati. No to sada doista nije jednostavno, πto zbog silne produkcije, πto zbog medija i raznoraznih drugih oblika u kojima je umjetnost metamorfozirana, prikrivena; uostalom 10

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∑ sve se danas doima poput velikih shopping centara. PoËetak treÊeg tisuÊljeÊa obiljeæen je virtualnom stvarnoπÊu, a sve viπe i virtualnom nadom. Tehnologija uvijek donosi napredak, no ujedno oduzima i dio naπe slobode. Primjerice: iako sam mrzio mobitel, sada ne mogu bez njega. Postajemo ovisnici; istodobno smo ærtve i uæivatelji, no to je u ljudskoj prirodi i stoga ∑ nepromjenljivo. UnatoË blagodatima tehnologije i medija kojima se u svakodnevici tako obilato sluæimo, nikad ne bismo smjeli smetnuti s uma dragocjenu pouku izreËenu u poËetku filma Metropolis (1927.) Fritza Langa: Izmeu mozga i ruku uvijek mora stajati srce. ■ e was one of the founders of the first permanent community of independent artists, ArTresor, and the magazine for architecture and culture, Oris. His works have been published in prestigious international magazines, publications and books: Graphis, Ethapes, Gallery Magazine, Print, Step Inside Design and others; they are kept in the permanent holdings of the Modern Gallery in Zagreb, the Gallery of Arts in Split and the Museum of Contemporary Art in Zagreb. He is the recipient of several significant awards in Croatia and abroad, both for fine arts as well as for design: New York (2002, 2007, 2010), Zürich (2009), London (2010), Montreal (2011)… He is a faculty member at the Academy of Fine Arts in Zagreb where he teaches undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate students, and he is also the creative director of the RaπiÊ Studio. In this interview, Ante RaπiÊ presents himself as a great connoisseur and admirer of the past, but primarily as an author who is fully preoccupied with the themes and challenges of the times we live in. ■ Mr. RaπiÊ, your creative links with nature seem to have been predestined: your mother did not get to hospital on time so you were born outside, alfresco, as it were... − Yes! Indeed, I was not born in a hospital or at home; or in a car even. Labour pains having started, my mother set out on foot from our village RaπiÊi to the nearby hospital with my father in tow. However, I was rather impatient already then, in my mother’s stomach, so I came into this world some two hundred meters away from the hospital, on a stormy day, in the rocky countryside, above Blue Lake, with my father as a midwife. That could be seen as the ultimate performance today, but perhaps it was in that cradle of nature near Imotski that my artistic initiation was born, at the moment when my life started. I do not know if that road in the Imotski landscape was some sort of

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an omen, but the fact is that some fifty years later it became the theme of an internationally recognized and multiply rewarded work of mine that is particularly dear to me. It is my section of the land-art project White Road, which I entitled In the Expectation of Rain. This fantastic project in Labin’s Sculpture Park was spearheaded by sculptor Josip DiminiÊ, and so far, fifteen prominent Croatian artists have contributed their sections to the White Road. ■ You were born in the rocky region of Dalmatian Zagora; you lived in the lowlaying Slavonian plain, and finally you have settled in urban Zagreb. Can the reflections of these different environments be detected in your artistic handwriting? − My first and most powerful impressions were of my native Dalmatia: the shimmer of the Mediterranean sun that makes one’s eyes water; the karst and wasteland from which people emerge as if from nowhere; the whiteness of the stones; the sea and the horizon... Dalmatia was followed by the Slavonian plain where there was nothing but land for as far as the eye could see. I remember the glistening of the smooth surfaces on the grooves of the freshly ploughed soil, on which flocks of crows feasted on shiny rain worms... Mesmerized by the dynamics of the earthen waves of Slavonia, I tried to make a cast entitled Grooves approximately ten square metres in size in the early 70s. Although I had made plaster of Paris moulds, I never completed that work. When I finally settled in Zagreb, I was instantly overwhelmed by the large city − an urban beehive which sucks you into an incredible rhythm of human activities, the boiling metropolis so much different from the nature which was always closest to me. My artistic work here has been strongly influenced by the ambiences of churches as places where different worlds often intertwine and coexist, sometimes even as a harmonious marriage of things that cannot be married: sacral and profane, spiritual and banal, supreme sophistication and blatant kitsch. I demonstrated my propensity towards these (un)marriable differences through the formulaic expression: From Kitsch to Meditation, which is obviously my take on the title of Vera Horvat PinatariÊ’s paradigmatic book From Kitsch to Eternity. ■ Many artists have drawn inspiration from the works of other authors, most commonly their immediate predecessors. Can you tell us something about your possible role models? − My role models cannot be discerned at the surface level of my works. If I mention only IvanËiÊ, Reiser, Seder, ©utej, KoæariÊ, Picelj or Edo MurtiÊ in one breath, it is immediately

clear that they all possess different artistic personalities, that they are all great authors, each of whom has a particular trait that has intrigued me: character, production, innovativeness, the way they shifted borders, their ludic components, and sometimes even the elementary creative freedom which they each had and knew how to use. Some of them were my professors or even colleagues at the Academy, and I even designed exhibition publications or monographs for some of them. I wish to believe that in the most recent creative continuity in Croatian art my generation is a bridge of sorts, a link between the deserving doyens and young artists. The latter, obviously bring impulses of a new era, but without the charisma of their predecessors, not because they do not have one, but because that term has assumed an entirely new meaning. ■ Even your most serious monologues are often accompanied by laughter; is humour an important part of your creative nature? − I wonder: what would art or the world in general be if they were deprived of humour? It is a good thing if one can make a joke at somebody else’s expense, and better still if it can be at one’s own expense even in the most difficult of situations. Humour sometimes turns out to be the most efficient therapy, even when the going gets really tough. The dimension of humour often appears in my works, but this type of creative humour should not be interpreted in a banal, literal sense, as something that may be reduced to a spontaneous pun. Through the grotesque, sarcasm, irony or some other forms of humour which escape well established definitions, we can indeed point to a problem in the best possible way; we can express criticism, or bring about changes in the way of thinking, and by doing that we can influence deeply ingrained worldviews. Humour is what makes us think in our quest for answers to the key questions, those that have always hounded human beings. It is a special type of creative, investigative lightness which remains light even when it is bitter, because humour always makes a blurred view clear... ■ Mirror is a common motif and theme of your artistic work. Why is that so? − Mirrors reflect the world around them: space and objects, people, landscapes, light. Moreover, in addition to their functional value, mirrors also have a symbolic value. Besides reflecting physical effigies, they can also reflect the state of one’s soul. Therefore, a mirror allows us to observe a factual world, but it also allow us to engage in self-observation, contemplation. That is why a mirror is the language of the soul, and a reflection in the mirror is actually a new reality; the world appears different when seen

through a mirror... The mirror is a common motive in contemporary ﬁne arts (D. Graham, A. Kapoor, Y. Kusama, R. Horn...), but human fascination with reflections on a polished surface goes way back in time. The oldest mirror was crafted approximately six thousand years before Christ, from a polished obsidian stone which was discovered in Anatolia, current day Turkey. Renaissance architect Filippo Brunelleschi discovered the linear perspective with the help of a mirror, which was also often used by Giotto, and by Leonardo, Dürer and others after him. However, a reﬂection in the water is the oldest and most natural mirror. Just remember how Narcissus’ fate was sealed? CROATIA AIRLINES

Without the possibility to see their reflections in the mirror (before photography first appeared) masters such as Dürer, Rembrandt, Vincent van Gogh or Frida Kahlo could have never painted their self-portraits. The same goes for their Croatian counterparts RaËiÊ, KraljeviÊ, Bukovac, Uzelac, Junek, Tartaglia, IvanËiÊ and their masterpieces... As an object, a mirror is commonplace in the works of great artists such as: Jan van Eyck, Parmigianino, Hans Holbein Jr., Velázquez, Tizian, Manet, Picasso… I myself have created many ambience installations with mirrors in exteriors and interiors, under the title 1001 view. The topic is so intriguing that I simply cannot stop talking about it. I have to say that mirrors have played an important role in literature (W. Shakespeare, O. Wilde...), film (A. Tarkovski, Marx brothers, Ch. Nolan...), as well as in religious life (nothing other than the mirror is the centrepiece in the Japanese shrine Shinto, dedicated to the goddess of sun!). ■ I will deliberately interrupt your most remarkable expression of the admiration of the beauty of art in general, and invite you to tell us something about your large exhibition last year, the five-part art project Art is Beautiful. St. Sebastian’s body was pierced with arrows, while your gigantic take on the ancient sculpture of Apoxyomenos had its body pierced with myriad mirrors; RaπiÊ’s Greek athlete came alive in an ecstatic apotheosis, mirroring everything around him... − Reflecting today on my great exhibition Art is Beautiful, I begin to understand that I had to be both crazy and brave to embark on such a major enterprise. My answer to my colleagues and friends, who had tried very benevolently to alert me to the extremely risky nature of the project was − Art cannot wait!. That statement very quickly took on and was often quoted. 14

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The exhibition exhausted me in every sense of the word, one of the reasons perhaps being the fact that it was put together in the dire times of recession, the absurd times when everybody with even a grain of normalcy simply has to wonder: does this make any sense at all because, in reality, many people are hungry, they have lost jobs and they are deprived of the last ounce of hope?!... Despite all of that, the exhibition made me richer, in terms of experience as well as in spiritual sense, because as a result of it, I finally and really grasped what the one thing is that no money can buy; that is the unconditional love and unreserved support of my dearest − my wife, sons, family and friends! That understanding was worth every sacrifice. When it comes to this exhibition, this also applies to the same extent to the unusually unrestrained and very emotional reactions of our proverbially restrained art audience. When they entered the Art Pavilion, visitors eyed my gigantic Apoxyomenos with astonishment; they visually sized him up from toe to head, which almost touched the dome. The expressions on those astonished faces and eyes wide open told the complete tale; up to that moment I was really convinced that an effect like that could be achieved only in films. Obviously, the exhibition shook up some of the existing prejudices, especially among one part of the professional audience who had become used to the mentally restricted scopes of our art production, which is why the local perception is rather restricted by the learned, trendy patterns, by things already seen and by many other drawers. But if something that has not been seen before cannot fit into any of the adopted drawers, then there is a problem?! That amount of confusion was certainly caused by the difference and scope achieved across no more than five exhibited pieces which I had tried to unify into a summarized retrospective. In that, my reference was a two thousand year old arch which spans the period of time from antiquity to contemporary art. If I now tell you that my original title for the exhibition was From Kitsch to Meditation, you will immediately understand that I do not tolerate artificial boundaries between the so-called pure art on the one hand, and commercial design on the other. In the 21st century, such divisions seem pointless and enforced. ■ Mr. RaπiÊ, you also deny the existence of differences between sculpture and painting; your projects all bear significant names and you have chosen white as the trademark colour of your work... − I am a painter, not a sculptor by education. From the very beginning, my work as a painter was linked to space and marked by

the effort to eliminate boundaries between painting and sculpture. Besides eliminating borders between different art disciplines and between art and design, I would also like to mention projects I was involved in on my own or together with Studio RaπiÊ designers and colleagues. Among them are very important creations of environmental design, with which we eliminated the boundaries between high and low culture by setting up new criteria, of course. I pay a lot of attention when naming my works. A significant title may often suggest a problem; it may highlight or even explain it. The titles of my work show that my primary concerns are the existential and essential problems of life and art itself (In the Expectation of Rain, Nightmare, Money Spoils People, The Tree of Life, On the Edge, Me-me, Art is Beautiful, Croatian Apoxyomenos, Nana I love you, Oil on Canvas...) Your observation about white being some sort of a trademark of my art is correct. It marks all of the periods of my artistic activity, starting with my student days in the early 70s until today. White, which is not even a colour at all, is the colour which I consider the colour of the beginning, the colour of purity and sanctity. Besides, you can see anything on white, which means that there is no room for muddying clear waters there. ■ How do you see the problem of the way current artistic creation is perceived? − You need to know how to look at contemporary art. Today, this demands a certain level of effort on the part of the art audience. We live in a time when there is an equation sign between the term art on the one hand, and the term life on the other, and everything can also be read as if seen in a mirror, therefore: art = life / life = art! Art is omnipresent; we are surrounded by it, we only need to recognize it. That, however, is indeed not easy, due to a vast output, due to the media and due to all sorts of other forms into which art is metamorphosed, disguised. In any case, today everything looks like huge shopping centres. The beginning of the third millennium is marked by virtual reality, and increasingly by virtual hope. Technology always brings progress, but at the same time, it takes away some of our freedom (for example, although I used to hate mobile phones, I can no longer live without one). We all become addicts; we are victims and beneficiaries at the same time, but that is all part of human nature, hence it cannot be changed. Despite the benefits of technology and media, which we use so copiously in our everyday life, we should never forget the precious message at the beginning of Fritz Lang’s film Metropolis (1927): Between the Head and a Hand Always Lies the Heart. ■

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Republika

HRVATSKA To je Hrvatska Republika Hrvatska smjeπtena je uz istoËne obale Jadranskog mora i u njegovu zaleu. Proteæe se od obronaka Alpa na sjeverozapadu do panonske ravnice na istoku. Povrπina je njezina kopna 56.542 Ëetvorna kilometra, a povrπina teritorijalnog mora 31.067 Ëetvornih kilometara. U Hrvatskoj æivi, prema popisu iz 2001. godine, 4,437.460 stanovnika. Duæina je morske obale 5835 km zajedno s otocima, otoËiÊima i grebenima.

Republic of

CROATIA

National parks Croatia has eight national parks, four of which are located in the mountain region (Paklenica, Plitvice Lakes, Risnjak and Northern Velebit), and four in the coastal region (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka and Mljet). Besides these, certain areas under strict nature protection ∑ reserves, natural monuments and natural parks ∑ should be mentioned as a natural heritage of special value. They have all contribu-

ZEMLJOVID HRVATSKE MAP OF CROATIA Izravne domaÊe linije Direct domestic routes Odrediπta Croatia Airlinesa Croatia Airlines’ destinations stalne / regular sezonske ljetne / seasonal in summer

............................................ Otoka, otoËiÊa i grebena ima 1185, a naseljeno je 47 otoka. Sluæbeni jezik jest hrvatski, a pismo latiniËno. NovËana jedinica - kuna. Glavni je grad Zagreb (779.145 stanovnika), koji je ujedno administrativno, kulturno, akademsko i trgovaËko srediπte zemlje. Ustav Republike Hrvatske izglasan je 22. prosinca 1990., a meunarodno je priznata 15. sijeËnja 1992. godine.

This is Croatia The Republic of Croatia lies along the east coast of the Adriatic Sea and its hinterland. It stretches from the slopes of the Alps in the north-west to the Pannonian Plain in the east. Its land area is 56,542 km2 and the area of its territorial sea is 31,067 km2. By the 2001 census, Croatia’s population is 4,437,460. The length of its sea coast is 5835 km, including islands, islets and reefs. There are 1185 islands, islets and reefs, of which 47 islands are inhabited. The ofﬁcial language is Croatian, and the ofﬁcial script is Latin. The currency is the Kuna. The capital is Zagreb (779,145 inhabitants), which is also the country’s administrative, cultural, academic and economic center. The Constitution of the Republic of Croatia was adopted on 22 December 1990, and the country received international recognition on 15 January 1992. Nacionalni parkovi Hrvatska ima osam nacionalnih parkova, od kojih su Ëetiri u planinskom podruËju (Paklenica, PlitviËka jezera, Risnjak i Sjeverni Velebit), a Ëetiri na obalnom podruËju (Brijuni, Kornati, Krka i Mljet). Njima, kao prostor osobito vrijedne prirodne baπtine, treba pridodati i podruËja pod strogom zaπtitom prirode, rezervate, spomenike prirode, parkove prirode. Zbog svih njih Hrvatsku mnogi smatraju jednim od najljepπih europskih vrtova. 16

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ted to Croatia’s being considered one of the most beautiful gardens of Europe.

Proπlost za sadaπnjost Hrvatska obiluje kulturno-povijesnim spomenicima iz svih razdoblja, zbog burnih povijesnih zbivanja i prepletanja utjecaja razliËitih kultura. Njezinu obalu karakteriziraju utjecaji mediteranske kulture, mnogi antiËki spomenici, spomenici iz rimskog razdoblja i ranoga srednjeg vijeka, romaniËko-sakralna baπtina te niz oËuvanih karakteristiËnih mediteranskih urbanih cjelina. Kontinentalna Hrvatska dio je srednjoeuropskoga kulturnog kruga i istiËe se mnogim prapovijesnim nalazima svjetske vaænosti, starim gradovima, utvrdama i dvorcima kasnoga srednjeg vijeka, kulturnim spomenicima i arhitekturom iz razdoblja baroka. Tri hrvatske urbane cjeline i dva spomeniËka kompleksa imaju status spomenika svjetske kulturne baπtine, koji dodjeljuje Unesco. To su kasnoantiËka Dioklecijanova palaËa, pregraena tijekom stoljeÊa u srednjovjekovni Split, gradovi Dubrovnik i Trogir te Eufrazijeva bazilika u PoreËu i katedrala sv. Jakova u ©ibeniku. Nacionalni park PlitviËka jezera, najljepπi i najpoznatiji hrvatski nacionalni park, takoer je dio Unescove Svjetske baπtine.

A past for the present Croatia is rich in cultural and historical monuments from all eras, due to the turbulent events of history and the interlacing of inﬂuences of different cultures. Its coast is characterized by the inﬂuences of Mediterranean culture, numerous ancient remains, monuments of the Roman era and early Middle Ages, a Romanesque church heritage and a number of distinctive Mediterranean urban entities that have been preserved. Inland Croatia is a part of the Central European cultural circle and is distinguished by numerous

prehistoric ﬁndings of world signiﬁcance, by old towns, fortresses and castles dating from the late Middle Ages, and cultural monuments and architecture from the Baroque era. Three Croatian cities and two monumental complexes have the status of monuments of world cultural heritage accorded by UNESCO. These are the Late Antique Palace of Diocletian, remodeled through the centuries into the medieval city of Split, the cities of Dubrovnik and Trogir, the Basilica of Euphrasius in PoreË and the Cathedral of St. Jacob in ©ibenik. The national park of the Plitvice Lakes, Croatia’s most beautiful and celebrated national park, is also a part of UNESCO’s world heritage.

Hrvatska - turistiËki hit na Sredozemlju Hrvatska je posljednjih godina - ocjenjuju meunarodni turistiËki znalci i statistiËari - najveÊe turistiËko iznenaenje te hit-odrediπte na Sredozemlju. Prema podacima Dræavnog zavoda za statistiku, hrvatska turistiËka odrediπta na otocima, priobalje te kontinentalni dio zemlje, ukljuËujuÊi i glavni grad Zagreb, u 2011. godini u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima zabilježili su 11,455.677 turista, od kojih je 87% stranih (9,926.674).

Turisti su ostvarili u komercijalnim smjeπtajnim objektima oko 60,000.000 noÊenja (60,138. 241 noÊenje), a od toga 91posto noÊenja ostvarili su strani turisti (57, 343.178). Tradicionalno su najbrojniji gosti Nijemci (22,8%), a njih slijede gosti iz Slovenije (11,7%), Italije (9,1%), Austrije (8,8%), »eπke (8,0%), Poljske (5,7%), SlovaËke (4,2%), Nizozemske (4,1%), Rusije (2,7%), Ujedinjenog Kraljevstva (2,3%), πto je ukupno 79,4%. Turisti iz ostalih zemalja ostvarili su 20,6 posto. Hoteli, turistiËka naselja i apartmani, hosteli, kampovi, sobe i apartmani u kuÊanstvima te ostale vrste smjeπtaja, kao i suvremeni nautiËki centri, opremljeni su u skladu s meunarodnim standardima. Bogata je kulturna ponuda, kongresna i wellnes ponuda, sportsko-rekreativni i zabavni sadræaji, charter ponuda (iznajmljivanje plovila za razonodu i sport), kilometri ureenih pjeπaËkih i biciklistiËkih staza, vinske ceste, izleti koji ukljuËuju razgledanje prirodnih i kulturnih vrijednosti…

Hrvatska je blizu ne samo zbog svoga geografskog smještaja, nego i zbog mreæe zraËnih luka i kvalitetnih usluga nacionalnog avioprijevoznika Croatia Airlinesa te drugih zraËnih prijevoznika. I zbog svoje mreæe autocesta i poluautocesta Hrvatska je bliæa nego ikad. Ako ste pak odabrali odmor na jednome od mnogih hrvatskih otoka, prijevoz trajek tom ili hidrogliserom s kopna trajat Êe - i kad su posrijedi oni najudaljeniji - kraÊe od 2 sata. Ali njihova ljepota i neposredan dodir s iskonskom prirodom bit Êe tako nezaboravni kao da ste od svakodnevice miljama i miljama daleko...

Croatia - a Mediterranean tourism success Croatia has been a hit destination and the biggest tourist surprise in the Mediterranean in the past few years, say statisticians and international experts in tourism. According to data from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics, the Croatian tourist destinations located on the islands, along the coast and in the continental part of the country, including the capital city of Zagreb, recorded roughly 11.5 million tourists (11,455,677 tourists) in commercial accommodation facilities in 2011, of whom 87% were foreign tourists (9,926,674 foreign tourists). Tourists realized about 60 million overnight stays (60,138,241 overnights) in commercial accommodation facilities, of which 91% of the overnights were realized by foreign tourists (57,343,178 foreign tourist overnights). Traditionally, the largest number of foreign guests came from Germany (22.8%), and they were followed by guests from Slovenia (11.7%), Italy (9.1%), Austria (8.8%), the Czech Republic

(8.0%), Poland (5.7%), Slovakia (4.2%), the Netherlands (4.1%), Russia (2.7%), and the United Kingdom (2.3%), which comes to a total of 79.4%. Tourists from other countries accounted for 20.6% of the overnights. Hotels, tourist villages and apartments, hostels, camps, rooms and apartments in private homes and other forms of accommodation, such as modern nautical centres, are equipped in line with international standards. There is a rich cultural offer, together with the congress and wellness offer, sport-recreation and entertainment contents, the charter offer (renting sailing vessels for leisure and sport), many kilometres of well-groomed walking and cycling paths, wine roads, sightseeing excursions that include natural and cultural treasures... Novac i naËin plaÊanja Ku na je na ziv novËa ne je di ni ce Re pu bli ke Hrvatske. U optjecaju su novËanice kuna (kn) i kovani novac kuna i lipa (lp). NovËanice su izdane u sljedeÊim apoenima - 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 i 1000 kuna, a kovani novac - 1, 2 i 5 kuna, te 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 i 50 lipa (100 lipa = 1 kuna). MoguÊe je plaÊanje kreditnim karticama (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard i Mastercard) i euroËekovima. Novac se moæe podizati i na bankomatima. Currency and payment methods The currency of the Republic of Croatia is called the Kuna (kn). In circulation are banknotes in Kuna and coins in Kuna and Lipa (lp) ∑ one hundredth of a Kuna. The banknotes are issued in the following denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 Kuna, while the denomination structure of the coins is 1, 2 and 5 Kuna and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 Lipa (100 Lipa = 1 Kuna). Payments can be made by credit card (Diners, Visa, American Express, Eurocard and Mastercard), as well as euro-checks. Cash can be withdrawn from ATMs.

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■ NOVA USLUGA A NEW SERVICE

Fotograﬁje/Photos Petar StrmeËki

Novu smo uslugu fokusirali na poslovni razred u kojemu putnicima, uz probrane obroke, nudimo vrhunsko bijelo i crno vino, karakteristiËno za podneblje. Our new service is focused on the business class where, in addition to carefully selected meals, passengers are offered premium white and red wines characteristic of this region. 18

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adamo se da su vam letovi Croatia Airlinesa ugodniji otkad vam nudimo specijalitete razliËitih hrvatskih krajeva i upoznajemo vas s njihovom enogastronomijom. Novu uslugu Okusi Hrvatske uveli smo u proljeÊe i najprije vam predstavili Istru, zatim tijekom ljetnih mjeseci Dalmaciju, a u jesen Zagorje. U poËetku sijeËnja nove 2013. godine nastavljamo s predstavljanjem hrvatskih krajeva i vodimo vas u naπu zlatnu æitnicu Slavoniju. Slavonska je gastronomska ponuda bogata i raznovrsna. Slavonci su oduvijek njegovali svoju kulturu, tradiciju i obiËaje, pa tako i kuhinju. Kontinentalna slavonska kuhinja oduvijek je bila odraz plodne zemlje i marljivih ruku πto je obrauju, a stol je bogat kao i sama Slavonija. Naπ je novi Ëarobnjak okusa chef Grgur BakπiÊ, koji je za vas izabrao boæiÊne, a zatim slavonske specijalitete πto vam ih od sijeËnja nudimo na letu, te nam pokazao naËin njihove pripreme. Pripada novom naraπtaju hrvatskih chefova, koji dominira hrvatskom gastronomskom scenom. Izmeu ostaloga, naπ je chef osmislio gastronomsku ponudu Restorana Cluba Waldinger u Osijeku, koji je gastronomske uæitke namijenio poznavateljima vrhunske kuhinje i onima koji uæivaju u novim okusima i mirisima. Naπ suradnik kaæe da je klasiËar u kuhinji i da se kvalitetna jela ne mogu pripremati bez poznavanja stare πkole. Tradicionalna jela pripravlja na originalan naËin, a izazov mu je istraæivanje hrvatske gastronomske baπtine. Od slavonskih specijaliteta, takoer u poslovnom razredu, nudimo vam Slavonsku daskicu na kojoj Êe se naÊi i kulen koji ima gotovo kul-

tno znaËenje; zatim ﬁπ paprikaπ, ﬁlet pastrve, janjeÊi perkelt… ili pak πtrudlu od kruπaka i viπanja, orehnjaËu i sl. I uza slavonska jela nudimo vam vina, Ëija proizvodnja u Slavoniji ima viπestoljetnu tradiciju. Pri izboru vina ponovno smo konzultirali suradnika Saπu ©piranca, vrsnog poznavatelja vina. Tako na naπim letovima, u poslovnom razredu, moæete kuπati vrhunska vina GaliÊ Graπevinu 2011. i Krauthaker Merlot 2009., a u ekonomskom razredu kvalitetna vina GaliÊ Graπevinu 2011. i Krauthaker Crveni Cuvée 2011. PodsjeÊamo, novu smo uslugu usredotoËili na poslovni razred, u kojemu putnicima nudimo reprezentativne obroke hrvatskih krajeva.

U ekonomskom razredu, na meunarodnim letovima, takoer putnicima nudimo manje speciﬁËne obroke i kvalitetna vina tijekom predstavljanja pojedinog kraja. Slavoniju, naπu novu regiju, tijekom ukrcaja u zrakoplov takoer Êemo predstaviti karakteristiËnom instrumentalnom glazbom skladatelja Alana Bjelinskog. U ovome putnom Ëasopisu, izmeu ostaloga, moæete proËitati zanimljiv tekst o slavonskoj gastronomiji i vinima, oplemenjen kvalitetnim fotograﬁjama. Stoga, æelimo vam ugodan let zrakoplovima Croatia Airlinesa, kojima Êete naËas otputovati i u hrvatske krajeve s osebujnom i izazovnom enogastronomskom ponudom. n

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Therefore, we wish you a pleasant ﬂight on Croatia Airlines, which will also, at least brieﬂy, take you to the Croatian regions and present their indeed particular and challenging enogastronomic offers. n

HRVATSKI BOÆIΔ U NA©IM ZRAKOPLOVIMA Od sredine prosinca do poËetka sijeËnja nove 2013. godine æelimo vam doËarati hrvatski BoæiÊ i pruæiti osobit ugoaj i u naπim zrakoplovima. Stoga vam nudimo prigodna vina i blagdanska jela speciﬁËna za pojedine hrvatske krajeve, koja se nalaze na boæiÊnom jelovniku mnogih hrvatskih domova. Na naπim letovima, u poslovnom razredu, moæete kuπati ﬁlet bakalara, janjetinu u πkartocu, Ëokoladni kolaË i prepustiti se toplom blagdanskom ugoaju.

e hope you are enjoying Croatia Airlines’ flights even more since we have started offering specialties from various Croatian regions and have acquainted you with the regions’ enogastronomy. We introduced our new service Flavours of Croatia last spring and first presented the region of Istria, then Dalmatia during the summer months, and Zagorje this autumn. In the beginning of Januar y 2013, we continue with the presentation of Croatian regions by taking you to our golden granary of Slavonia. Slavonian gastronomy is rich and diverse. The people of Slavonia have always nurtured their culture, tradition, customs, and their cuisine as well. Continental Slavonian cuisine has always been the refl ection of fertile soil and the hard-working people who cultivate it, and their table is just as rich as Slavonia itself. Our new magician of flavours is chef Grgur BakπiÊ, who has selected traditional Christmas specialties for you which are characteristic of Slavonia. He has shown us how to prepare them and they will be offered to you on our flights starting in January. He belongs to a new generation of Croatian chefs who are dominating the Croatian gastronomy scene. Among other things, he has created the gastronomic offer at the Restaurant club Waldinger in Osijek, which targets top cuisine connoisseurs and all those who enjoy new flavours and scents. Chef Grgur BakπiÊ says his approach to cuisine is classic and that the highest quality dishes cannot be prepared without old school

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knowledge. He prepares traditional dishes in an original way, and he finds a challenge in exploring the Croatian gastronomy heritage. Among the Slavonian specialties, in business class, we offer you Slavonska daskica (Slavonian plate), on which you will find kulen, which enjoys a particular reputation, as well as fish paprikash, filet of trout, lamb pörkölt, pear and sour cherry strudel, walnut roll… Along with the Slavonian dishes, we will offer you wines with traditions that go back several centuries in Slavonia. When selecting the wines, we consulted Saπa ©piranec, a top-notch wine specialist. Hence, in business class on our flights, you will be able to taste premium wines, such as GaliÊ Graπevina 2011 and Krauthaker Merlot 2009, while in economy class we will offer you the quality wines GaliÊ Graπevina 2011 and Krauthaker Crveni Cuvée 2011. Let us remind you, we have focused our new service on business class passengers, and we are offering them representative meals specific of Croatian regions. In economy class on international fl ights, we offer our passengers specific meals and quality wines characteristic of a particular region. Slavonia, another of the regions we are introducing, will also be presented to our passengers while they are boarding by way of characteristic instrumental music by the composer Alan Bjelinski. In the inflight magazine in front of you, among other things, you can read an interesting article on Slavonian gastronomy and wines, accompanied by excellent photographs.

CROATIAN CHRISTMAS ON OUR AIRCRAFT From the middle of December until the beginning of January 2013, we want to introduce you to Croatian Christmas and create a special atmosphere on our aircraft. Therefore, we offer you the season’s wines and holiday dishes specific of particular Croatian regions which can be found on the Christmas menu in many Croatian homes. On our fl ights, in business class, you are able to taste filet of codfish, lamb in πkartoc (wrapped and cooked in baking paper), chocolate cake, and indulge in the warm holiday atmosphere.

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GASTRONOMIJA GASTRONOMY ■

Piše/By Božica Brkan Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ CROATIA AIRLINES

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Mila majko, ne sijeci nam tanko/ veÊ debelo da se najedemo. Taj nezaobilazan dvostih slavonske prehrambene, a i æivotne filozofije, omiljeni je beÊarac, nazvan po raskalaπenim momcima beÊarima. Danas je na Unescovu popisu zaπtiÊene svjetske nematerijalne baπtine, a u njemu opjevanome kulenu ili kulinu Slavonci zaπtitiπe zemljopisno podrijetlo i reæu ga elegantno, tanko… Dear Mother, do not cut our slices thin, slice them thick so we can fill our bellies. This is a predictable couplet epitomizing Slavonian food and life philosophy. These couplets constitute a favourite beÊarac which derives its name from wanton young men, known as beÊari (carousers). The beÊarac is on UNESCO’s list of protected intangible heritage and the kulen or kulin which is often sung about has been protected by Slavonians as a product with a geographic origin. Ever since, they have cut it more elegantly and more thinly.

ekad je vrijedilo: πto deblje, to bolje. ©to se bolje jelo, to je bilo toplije i moglo se viπe raditi, a deblje je u slavonskoj estetici znaËilo zdravo i izdræljivo. Sentencije u dva rimovana stiha (Mila majko, ne sijeci nam tanko/ veÊ debelo da se najedemo), duhovite i obijesne, vesele i poskoËne, uvijek na istu melodiju i ritam, poput ravne slavonske zemlje æitnice orane plugom, tamburaπki rezane bisernicom, bugarijom i berdom, omiljeni je beÊarac, nazvan po raskalaπenim momcima beÊarima. Od svake bi se svinje nekad, od prvorazrednoga mesa, pripremao samo po jedan debeljuπkasti kulen. Zahtijevao je majstorstvo i njeænu brigu poput æenskoga bedra, mjesecima bi gubio na teæini, zrio i zrio i otvarao se poput kuÊnoga blaga tek o æetvi, Ëuvao za snuboke i zaruke, krstitke i æetvu i druge velike kuÊne dogaaje, a iskaz najveÊega imanja bio je − dobar kulen na novome kolinju. Danas je na kulenju narasla cijela industrija: slavonska πunka, kulenova seka, slanina proπarana i bijela safunjara, Ëija se debljina i dalje mjeri prstima, pa mesne kobasice i krvavice (koje u Slavoniji nemaju krvi!), πvargl, Ëvarci... Od svjeæega mesa pak najpoznatije je slavonsko jelo Ëobanac, koji je to bolji πto sadræava viπe vrsta mesa − uza svinjetinu, obiËno i junetinu ili govedinu i janjetinu ili divljaË, u novije

vrijeme i piletinu − za koji je odluËujuÊa dobra crvena mljevena paprika, slatka i ljuta. Uostalom, kao i za kulen ili za obiËan paprikaπ ili ﬁπ-paprikaπ, jelo od mijeπane rijeËne ribe. Ako je Ëobanac nekad bio jelo Ëobana, pastira, a ﬁπ ribolovaca na Savi, Dravi i Dunavu, rijekama koje okruæuju Slavoniju, zemlju plemenitu, danas su to omiljena nacionalna jela, posebice za turiste. Oni su nadahnuli i novija jela, poput odreska punjenih kulenom i sirom, nazvana Trenkovim, po nestaπnome voi nekadaπnjih pandura, oko kojega se ispleÊu legende πto ne zaobilaze ni slavnu caricu Mariju Tereziju. Poæelite li ih doznati, morate svakako navratiti u stari kutjevaËki vinski podrum, ne jedini koji koji vrijedi obiÊi u Zlatnoj dolini, Vallis aurea. A sir, nekad uglavnom kravlji, svjeæ i Ëesto uza suhomesnate preraevine ponuen kao satrica, s lukom i paprikom, ili osuπen na zraku i rjee na dimu, danas je na plati sireva dobio izvrsne parnjake u kozjemu i ovËjemu. ©iroki i debeli starinski rezanci, katkad umjesto krumpira posluæeni uz gusta juπna jela, a katkad zapeËeni za slaninom i sirom ili bogato pomijeπani s makom ili orasima, tako dobivaju nove okuse naπega vremena. Pridonijela su tomu i znamenita vinogorja s izvrsnim, svjetski cijenjenim i nagraivanim vinima, od najzapadnijih daruvarskih preko brodskih i kutjevaËkih do najistoËnijih iloËkih. CROATIA AIRLINES

Maslinova ulja više nisu trend. Znati MD¾SN N MIHL@ RSU@Q ID NOþD JTKSTQD /NMTC@ NKDNSDJD 4ID OQDCRS@UKI@ M@IANKID NC GQU@SRJD F@RSQNMNLHID (@JN ID QHIDý OQHID RUDF@ N NKDNSDBH C@JKD SQFNUHMH L@RKHMNUHL TKIHL@ NUCID LNÄDSD JTOHSH UQKN RSQNFN OQNAQ@MT RDKDJBHIT M@IANKIHG GQU@SRJHG OQNHYUNC@ .KHUD NHKR @QD MN KNMFDQ ITRS @ SQDMC 3N JMNV RNLDSGHMF @ANTS SGDL G@R ADBNLD @ L@SSDQ NE FDMDQ@K JMNVKDCFD 3GD OQNCTBSR VGHBG B@M AD ENTMC HM NTQ NKHUD NHK RGNO @QD SGD QDOQDRDMS@SHNM NE "QN@SH@M F@RSQNMNLX KSGNTFG SGHR HR OQHL@QHKX @M NKHUD NHK RGNO GDQD XNT B@M @KRN EHMC B@QDETKKX RDKDBSDC SNO PT@KHSX "QN@SH@M OQNCTBSR

Graπevinu bi, primjerice, mnogi pojmili gotovo autohtonom, koliko joj godi podneblje i koliko se ona dobro sljubljuje sa æednim slavonskim jelima. A iloËki traminac britanska kraljica Elizabeta II. ponudila je na svojoj krunidbi te ponovno nakon πezdeset godina na dijamantome jubileju, pa Slavonci to, jedno od najprestiænijih hrvatskih vina, nude od predjela do deserta, a posebice su na cijeni predikati: ledena ili kasna ili izborna berba prosuπenih bobica, koja je oduπevila, primjerice, i izbirljivi Decanter. Neki Êe takvo blago u Ëaπi samo pojmiti kao desert, neki Êe mu pridruæiti starinske, orasima ili makom bogato nadjevene guævare, pogaËe, bucmaste iz vruÊe svinjske masti isplivale i πeÊerom obilno posute krofne ili bar leperice odnosno poderane gaÊe, πape ili prace, paprenjake ili paprence, salenjake koji se svakim grizom bogati listaju, ili neki novi tek kreirani autorski desert obogaÊen voÊem iz slavonskih voÊnjaka. Onim istim kakvo su nekad preraivali u fantastiËne pekmeze, od πljiva ponajprije, ili joπ zanosnije meke voÊne rakije, πljivovicu ponajprije. I slavonski su povrtnjaci jednako πiroke ruke, pa se na stolu uvijek nae πarenilo boja i okusa svjeæega ili pak ukiseljenoga (krastavci, paprika, punjena paprika, mijeπano…), usoljenoga (turπija, kiseli kupus), upræenoga (πataraπ, ajvar, uveË). Slavonci nisu posve zaboravili ni veoma zanimljivo brzo starinsko jelo od luka, zelene paprika, rajËice, feferona te umuÊenoga jajeta, i posoljeno i poπeÊereno, koje nazvaπe − beÊarcem. Dakako, u Slavoniji se ne moæe preskoËiti ni punjena paprika i sarma, odojak s raænja i druge peËenke bez kojih ni danas, ubrojivπi i sve ono sprijeda, ne mogu ni jedan kirbaj ili kirvaj odnosno crkveni god sveca zaπtitnika, svatovi, ali ni boæiÊni objed, novogodiπnji doËek ili ma koje obiteljsko ili prijateljsko druæenje za slavonskim stolom − za kojim najbolje moæete raspredati o eventualnim maarskim, turskim, austrijskim i inim utjecajima − ili gdje se bolje jede. Gastroputopisac Slavonac Matko PeiÊ zakljuËio je davno: Gurman koji u Slavoniji ne nae zalogaja po svojem ukusu − neka ide na planinu Psunj na cicvaru, na Papuk na raæanj od bravana (drozdovi), u posavske pajzle na kvargl (suhi sir, sol, papar, paprika, te naroËito kiml). Kamo god krenuli, pogrijeπiti neÊete u zemlji gdje se pjeva i beÊarac: PeËem πtrudlu, sedam kila germe/aj, sedam konja vuku je iz rerne… n

www.uje.hr

here was a time when the order of the day was: the fatter the better. The better you ate, the warmer you were and the harder you could work. According to Slavonian aesthetic standards, fat meant

T 30

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healthy and resilient. Sentences in rhyming couplets, (Dear Mother, do not cut our slices thin, slice them thick so we can fill our bellies), witty and cheeky, merry and chirpy, are always sung to the same tune and rhythm, like the flat breadbasket, which is Slavonia, a land ploughed with a plough, cut through with the sounds of tamburitza. There was a time when the highest quality meat from each slaughtered pig would yield just one kulen. It required masterly skills and tender care, like a woman’s thigh. It would be left for months to waste in weight, to go on maturing and maturing, and it would be cut like a treasured family heirloom, not before the harvest. It would be kept for the future in-laws who came proposing, for engagement parties and christenings, for harvests and other major family events. A quintessential sign of wealth was a good kulen served at the beginning of a new pig slaughtering season. A whole industry has developed from kulen and kulen-related products: Slavonian ham, kulen’s sister, streaked bacon and white safunjara bacon, whose thickness is still measured in fingers, meaty sausages and black pudding (there is no blood in the Slavonian variety), πvargl, (a Slavonian take on haggis), pork cracklings... The best known Slavonian dish made with fresh meat is Ëobanac, whose quality is measured by the variety of the meats that have been used in its preparation: in addition to pork, usually it is beef, lamb or wild game, and as of recently also chicken meat. Good paprika powder, both sweet and hot, makes a world of difference in this dish, as it does in kulen or in common paprikash or fish paprikash, the last being a dish made with various types of river fish... There was a time when Ëobanac was the staple dish of shepherds (Ëoban in Croatian), whereas fish paprikash was prepared by anglers on the Sava, the Drava and the Danube, the rivers that surround the noble land of Slavonia. Today, they are favourite national dishes, particularly appreciated by tourists. They have inspired some modern day concoctions, such as steaks filled with kulen and cheese, known under the name Trenk’s steak, after the roguish leader of the one-time pandours. He is the main protagonist of legends in which Empress Maria Theresa often plays a supporting role. If you are intrigued to hear those legends, you must pop by the old wine cellar of Kutjevo, possibly the best known but certainly not the only one worth a visit in the Golden Valley, Vallis aurea. Let us move on to cheese. In the past it was mostly of the cow cheese variety. It was

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served young and fresh, often as an accompaniment to dry cured meats in a dish known as satrica, with onions and peppers, or dry cured by air, and only rarely smoked. Today, it has valiant competition in goat’s and sheep’s cheese. Wide and thick old-world noodles were sometimes served instead of potatoes as an accompaniment to thick broths. They would sometimes be baked with bacon and cheese, or mixed with a generous helping of poppy seeds or walnuts, and thus they would assume new tastes, in keeping with modern times. A major contribution to the rich smorgasbord are globally renown and rewarded wines from famous wine growing areas ranging from the 32

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westernmost slopes around Daruvar, across the wine growing areas around Brod and Kutjevo, to the easternmost ones near Ilok. Many would be mistaken to think that Graπevina (Welschriesling), for example, is an autochthonous variety seeing how the climate suits it and how well it marries with wine-thirsty Slavonian dishes. The English Queen Elisabeth II offered guests the Traminer from Ilok at her coronation dinner, and then again 60 years later, at the celebration of her Diamond Jubilee. Slavonians serve and drink this wine, one of the most prestigious Croatian varieties, with all the courses, from starters to desserts. Particularly sought after are wines with all levels of predicate names:

late harvest wines, ice wines, select vintage wines or select dried berries harvests, the last of which has received accolades from the discerning Decanter, inter alia. Some will perceive this treasure in a glass as a dessert in its own right; some will marry it with old-fashioned pastry rolls known as guævara, richly filled with poppy seeds or walnuts; or with panatone-like pogaËa, plump doughnuts taken out from hot pork fat and generously sprinkled with sugar, or at least with plain pastry fritters, known as leperice or knickers with holes, bear paws, pepper biscuits, lard cakes which melt in one’s mouth with every bite, or some other new dessert, created by an enthusiast or professional, involving fruit from Slavonian orchards. That same fruit was once processed into fantastic jams, plum jams for example, or alternatively, into smooth-flowing fruit brandies, plum brandy first and foremost. Slavonian vegetable gardens are equally generous, which is why there is always an abundance of colours and tastes on Slavonian tables coming from the fresh or pickled vegetables (gherkins, bell peppers, stuffed peppers, mixed pickles) and vegetables preserved in salt (turπija, and sauerkraut) or preserved as chutneys (πataraπ, ajvar, uveË). Slavonians have not forgotten a very quick old recipe for a dish made from onions, green bell peppers, tomatoes, chilli peppers and eggs, sprinkled with salt and sugar which they call beÊarac. Obviously, when in Slavonia, you will have to taste stuffed peppers and stuffed sauerkraut leaves (the latter is known under the name sarma). A piglet on a spit and other roast meats are still a must at church fetes, when patron saints are celebrated. They are also served at family parties, such as weddings, Christmas and New Year’s dinners, or any other gatherings of family and friends around a Slavonian table. On such occasions, everyone is more than welcome, obviously, to discuss at great length possible Hungarian, Turkish, Austrian and all other influences on the Slavonian gastronomy and where food is the best. A gastro nomad and writer, Slavonian Matko PeiÊ, concluded a long time ago: A gourmet who does not find a dish to his taste in Slavonia should go to Mt. Psunj and try cicvara (a dish made with semolina, milk and sour cream), to Mt. Papuk to taste grilled fieldfares, and to humble pubs in Posavina to delight in kvargl (dry cheese, salt, pepper and particularly cumin). Wherever you go, you cannot go wrong in a land where a popular beÊarac verse goes: I am baking strudels with seven kilos of yeast; seven horses are pulling it out from the oven.... n

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■ ENOLOGIJA OENOLOGY

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Piše/By Saša Špiranec Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ CROATIA AIRLINES

Svaki je dio vinske Hrvatske povezan s jednom bojom. Dalmacija s plavom, Istra s crvenom, sjeverozapadna Hrvatska sa zelenom te, napokon, Slavonija sa zlatnom, zbog nepreglednih polja æitarica πto se prostiru po njezinim osunËanim ravnicama. Slavonska su vina baπ onakva kakva oËekujete od regije obojene zlatnom bojom - bogata, raskoπna, velikoduπna, zrela i slasna. Each part of wine-growing Croatia is tied to a particular colour: Dalmatia with blue, Istria with red, north-western Croatia with green and, ﬁnally, Slavonia with gold, due to the vast wheat ﬁelds that spread across its sun bathed lowlands. Slavonian wines are just what one might expect from the region saturated with golden colours − rich, luxurious, generous, ripe and tasty.

vaki je dio vinske Hrvatske povezan s jednom bojom. Dalmacija s plavom zbog jedinstvene duboko plave boje mora. Istra s crvenom zbog karakteristiËne crvenice, osobita tipa tla bogatoga æeljeznim oksidima. Bregovita sjeverozapadna Hrvatska sa zelenom zbog svjeæe klime i obilja vegetacije. Napokon, Slavonija sa zlatnom zbog nepreglednih polja æitarica πto se prostiru po njezinim osunËanim ravnicama. Navedene boje istodobno idealno utjelovljuju i svojstva vina iz tih regija. Vina zelene, bregovite Hrvatske osvjeæavajuÊa, mirisna i æivahnih kiselina, crvene Istre mineralna i voÊnih aroma, plave Dalmacije puna, snaæna i arome prosuπena voÊa, te napokon zlatne Slavonije bogata, raskoπna, velikoduπna, zrela i slasna. Baπ onakva kakva oËekujete od regije obojene zlatnom bojom. Negdje na sredini ravne Slavonije, usred polja pπenice i kukuruza, iznikle su niske slavonske gore, od kojih ni jedna ne prelazi tisuÊu metara visine, te po svojim padinama razbacale mnogobrojne vinograde. Gore imena Psunj, Ravna gora, Papuk, Krndija, Dilj i Poæeπka gora zaokruæile su slavonsku ravnicu i formirale neobiËan prirodni prsten unutar kojega vladaju posebni klimatski uvjeti, idealni za uzgoj loze. Sjeverni zid prstena, koji πtiti dolinu od hladnih zimskih sjevernih vjetrova, tvore Papuk i Krndija. Po njihovim juænim padinama, okrenutima unutraπnjosti prstena, prosuli su se brojni vinogradi vinogorja Kutjevo. SpeciﬁËni geoklimatski poloæaj osigurava im stabilnost te tijekom ljeta regulira vlagu i Ëuva groæe od visokih ljetnih temperatura, a za hladnijih zimskih dana Ëuva lozu od smrzavanja. Taj se dio smatra idealnim za uzgoj graπevine, najzastupljenije sorte u Hrvatskoj.

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Na juænom rubu prstena, koji tvore Dilj i Poæeπka gora, na njihovim juænim padinama okrenutima prema rijeci Savi, prostiru se vinogradi u kojima osobito dobre rezultate postiæu crne sorte. Bez klimatske zaπtite koju pruæa unutraπnjost prstena, ovdje je utjecaj Sunca izraæeniji, pa se crne sorte poput cabernet sauvignona, merlota i syraha ovdje jako dobro snalaze i daju vina novosvjetovnog karaktera. Na zapadnoj strani prstena, u okolici grada Daruvara i Pakraca, na vanjskim obroncima Papuka i Psunja, takoer zaπtiÊenima od prevelike izloæenosti utjecaju Sunca, prostiru se vinogradi bijelih sorti. Sauvignon blanc izvrsno se prilagodio tim uvjetima, a i graπevina ovdje ima osobito atraktivan aromatski proﬁl. Na istoËnoj strani prstena, na vanjskim, istoËnim obroncima gora Krndija i Dilj, okrenutima prema gradu –akovu, nalaze se vinogradi na neπto niæim nadmorskim visinama i daju graπevinu zrelijeg tipa te vrlo cijenjeni traminac. Na vanjskoj strani sjevernog zida prstena, na padinama Papuka i Krndije, nalaze se posljednja dva slavonska vinogorja, Orahovica i FeriËanci. Orahovica je idealno udomila silvanac zeleni koji ovdje ima viπe tijela nego u hladnijim regijama, a opet zbog poloæaja na sjevernim padinama Ëuva svjeæinu i intenzitet aroma. FeriËanci su prije svega udomili dvije crne sorte tipiËne za panonsku nizinu; frankovku i zweigelt. Te dvije sorte ovdje daju bolje rezultate nego igdje drugdje u Hrvatskoj. Graπevina je u FeriËancima takoer veoma zanimljiva i harmoniËna, te od svih drugih regija moæda najbliæe kutjevaËkom uzoru. Na vinsku tradiciju Slavonije uvelike je utjecala burna povijest, a kljuËni su trenuci bili uniπtavanje vinograda dolaskom osmanlijskih osvajaËa, pa njihova restauracija. Novo

plemstvo dobivalo je feude kao apanaæu za protjerivanje Osmanlija. Tijekom razdoblja socijalizma i devastacije naslijea fokus se sveo na masovnost proizvodnje. Zbog tih okolnosti vinogradi su u ovoj regiji veÊi nego u poËetku spomenute ostale tri regije. Nema toliko malih hobistiËkih vinograda za osobnu potroπnju kao u Dalmaciji ili bregovitoj Hrvatskoj. Veleposjednici, a zatim kombinati i zadruge, formirali su izgled vinogradarskih krajolika. Tako mnogi impresivni vinogradi, veliËinom i ljepotom, poput onih –akova d.d., Kutjeva d.d. ili Orahovice d.d., baπtine baπ takav povijesni slijed. Slavonija je preteæno zemlja bijelih vina. U ne tako davnoj povijesti, u poËetku dvadesetog stoljeÊa, bilo je neπto drugaËije i crne sorte poput kadarke i frankovke zauzimale su znaËajan udio u ukupnom sortimentu, no kasniji razvoj, a osobito u razdoblju od Drugoga svjetskog rata do poËetka ovog stoljeÊa, bijele su sorte gotovo potpuno istisnule crne. Danas, na temelju spoznaja o blagotvornom utjecaju crnih vina na zdravlje i raanja suvremenijeg tipa umjerenoga i promiπljenog konzumenta vina, crne se sorte sve viπe vraÊaju u vinograde i sve je manje vinarija koje u asortimanu ne mogu ponuditi barem dvije etikete crnih vina. Sortiment bijelih vina priliËno je velik. Sve internacionalno popularne sorte uzgajaju se ovdje. Ali s jednom se poËinje i zavrπava. S graπevinom. Graπevina je nepovrediva vladarica vinograda. Ova regija kolijevka je premium graπevine. Ovdje se, bez pretjerivanja, proizvodi najbolja graπevina na svijetu. ZvuËi razmetno, ali zaista je tako. Zbog toga graπevina u Hrvatskoj nosi osobito ime. Ime koje otklanja svaku moguÊnost zamjene sa sortom riesling,

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πto je u ostalim inaËicama naziva te sorte Ëesto. Ime graπevina na hrvatskom zapravo doËarava izgled bobica u jednoj od fazi dozrijevanja, kad bobica izgledom podsjeÊa na zeleni graπak. U doslovnom prijevodu graπevina bi znaËila sliËi graπku. Graπevina je sorta koja se uzgaja u desetak europskih zemalja, no samo ovdje daje tako visoku kvalitetu. Dok je u drugim zemljama vino od te sorte obiËno najjeftinije, startno vino, u ovoj regiji ona je rezervirana za vina premium kategorije. Stoga prevladajte eventualne predrasude o priprostosti te sorte i kada doete u Hrvatsku, obavezno je istraæite. U Daruvaru je bogata, odiπe svjeæinom i atraktivnom voÊnom aromom. U Kutjevu dolazi u tri oblika. Najprije svjeæa, herbalnomineralno-voÊna karaktera, zatim ona zrelija s brojnim aromama cvijeÊa i povremenim notama plemenite plijesni, jer Ëesto je ubrana iza redovitih rokova berbe, te na kraju vrlo slatka kao ledena berba ili neka druga vrsta predikata. U slavonskobrodskom vinogorju punija je tijela i neπto jaËeg alkohola. Nude se i mnoge druge varijacije uvjetovane podnebljem poput onih elegantnijih iz FeriËanaca ili herbalnih iz okolice Pakraca. Takvo bogatstvo stilova unutar jedne sorte u nas se moæe naÊi joπ samo u Istri s malvazijom. Graπevina upravo prolazi kroz svoju najljepπu eru. Od samo desetak proizvoaËa visoko kvalitetnog vina prije petnaestak godina, do danas, kada je broj takvih vinara narastao na najmanje pedesetak. Osobito veseli, dobri su i veliki i mali vinari. Dakle, graπevina je postala sigurna kupnja u svim cjenovnim kategorijama, to jest na policama supermarketa kao i u vinotekama. Frankovka (Blaufrankisch). Vrlo vaæna sorta ove regije zapravo je ugroæena. Æelja gotovo svakog vinara da u asortimanu ima popularne crne sorte cabernet sauvignon i merlot, te eventualno syrah, ugrozila je zastupljenost domaÊih sorata poput frankovke. Prava πteta, jer frankovka je sorta panonske nizine koja Êe ovdje dati vina bolje kvalitete nego spomenute internacionalne sorte. Frankovka ima uroenu voÊnost i svjeæinu koja na ovim osunËanim i toplim predjelima daje vinu savrπeni balans. Najbolja su potvrda toj tezi etiketa Miraz i Dika proizvoaËa Feravino. Traminac (Gewurtztraminer) druga je najvaænija bijela sorta ove regije. ObiËno je zaduæena za vrlo slatka vina, a u okolici –akova, –akovaËka biskupija proizvodi od nje poznato Misno vino. Traminci su mirisni, zreli i snaæni, a osim za ultraslatke predikate priliËno ga se rabi i za suha vina. Kao suha preteæno su puna tijela, s vrlo blagim kiselinama, speciﬁËnog mirisa cvjetna karaktera i 46

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gotovo redovito s malim udjelom plemenite plijesni. Kao slatka to su topli i ljepljivi nektari s jasnom aromatskom asocijacijom na med. Okusom su veoma slatki, gusti, pikantni i postojani. Silvanac zeleni (Sylvaner) pronaπao je u vinogorju Orahovica idealne uvjete za uzgoj. Tu je tipiËna i atraktivna aroma zelene jabuke, ali tijelom i punoÊom sliËnija je chardonnayu nego silvancu iz Frankena. Zweigelt dijeli sudbinu s frankovkom πto se svega tiËe, jedino je uvijek, u dobru i zlu, bio neπto manje zastupljen od roaka. Zweigelt je kriæanac frankovke i lovrijenca (St Laurent). Chardonnay je neizbjeæan kamo se god okrenemo, ali ovdje daje zanimljive rezultate. MoÊnija i zrelija vina, Ëesto odleæala na kvascima, πto im je dalo πtih kremoznosti na okusu, dozrijevana dijelom ili u cjelini u hrastovim baËvama raznih veliËina. Rajnski rizling ovdje je dramatiËno drugaËiji nego u bregovitoj Hrvatskoj ili u nekoj od drugih tipiËno prohladnih regija. Joπ dobre svjeæine, ali alkoholi katkad porastu visoko, pa daje snaæna i puna vina zrela karaktera, Ëesto sa slatkastim notama u okusu. Sauvignon u veÊem dijelu Slavonije i Podunavlja ne daje onu ﬁ nu svjeæinu koju oËekujemo. No, iznimka su vinogorja Kutjevo i Daruvar, koja ga proizvode veoma uspjeπno. Vrlo osvjeæavajuÊe i mirisne, sa solidnim, ali ne prejakim tijelom. Sauvignoni iz tih regija osvojili su neke od najsjajnijih medalja za hrvatska vina u inozemstvu. Cabernet sauvignon − Merlot. Te dvije popularne sorte rade se s velikim uspjehom u cijeloj regiji. Ovdje ih karakterizira snaga, zgusnuta voÊnost, katkad dæemastost, blaga pikantnost i visoka koncentracija. Osobito kada dolaze iz okolice Slavonskog Broda. U Kutjevu su neπto elegantnije prirode. Putni savjeti Ako ste iz udaljenijih krajeva, planirajte viπednevni boravak. Automobil je dobro prijevozno sredstvo, ali ne i jedino. PopriliËno manjih agencija organizira vinske ture s ukljuËenim prijevozom iz Zagreba, vodiËem i cjelodnevnom skrbi. Ako ste individualni posjetitelj, svakako napravite dobar plan i najavite se svuda kamo dolazite, jer neki vinari ne primaju individualne goste. Upotpunite dnevne sadræaje s nekim od prije spomenutih prirodnih bisera. Kod izbora seoski turizam ili restoran, seoski turizam sigurnija je varijanta. Fini restorani, s iznimkom nekoliko zaista sjajnih, joπ su i danas rijetka pojava, a u seoskom turizmu posluæuju jednostavnu, ali izvrsnu hranu domaÊeg podrijetla. n

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ach part of wine-making Croatia is tied to a particular colour: Dalmatia with blue, due to its one-of-a-kind deep blue colour of the sea; Istria with red, due to its characteristic red earth rich in iron oxide; hilly, north-western Croatia with green, due to its fresh climate and diverse vegetation; and Slavonia with gold, due to vast wheat fields that spread across its sun bathed lowlands. The aforementioned colours are also the perfect embodiment of the characteristics of local wines. Wines of green, hilly Croatia are refreshing, aromatic and of a vivacious acidity. Wines of red Istria are full of minerals and fruity aromas. Wines of blue Dalmatia are full, strong and feature an aroma of dried fruits. Finally, the wines of golden Slavonia are rich, luxurious, generous, ripe and tasty − just as one might expect of a region saturated with golden colours. Smack in the middle of the region, amidst the fields of corn and wheat, low Slavonian hills tower over the vast lowlands. None of them are over 1000 meters high, but its slopes are scattered with vineyards. In the Slavonian lowlands, the hills of Psunj, Ravna Gora, Papuk, Krndija, Dilj and Poæeπka Gora form an unusual natural ring with a special climate, ideal for wine. The northern wall of the ring, which protects the valley from cold, northern winds during the winter, consists of Papuk and Krndija. Their southern slopes, facing the inner side of the ring, are scattered with numerous vineyards of Kutjevo. The specific geo-climatic position provides them with stability and regulates humidity levels during the summer, protecting the grapes from high summer temperatures, while during the colder winter days it protects them from freezing. This area is considered ideal for the cultivation of Welschriesling, the most common sort in Croatia. The slopes of the southern edge of the ring, comprised of Dilj and Poæeπka Gora, which

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face the Sava River, feature vineyards famous for their red wines. Without the climatic protection characteristic of the inner side of the ring, the influence of the sun is stronger so red sorts such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah are very successful there, representing wines of a new-world character. Also shielded from strong exposure to the sun, numerous vineyards of white sorts can be found on the western edge of the ring, the outer slopes of Papuk and Psunj, in the vicinity of Daruvar and Pakrac. Sauvignon Blanc has perfectly adapted to these conditions, while the local Welschriesling also has an appealing aromatic profile. On the eastern side of the ring, the outer, eastern slopes of Krndija and Dilj, facing – akovo, there are vineyards at lower altitudes, from which riper kinds of Welschriesling and a very well esteemed Gewürztraminer are made. On the outer side of the ring’s northern wall, on the slopes of Papuk and Krndija, there are the final two wine making areas of Slavonia − Orahovica and FeriËanci. Orahovica has become an ideal locale for a fuller-bodied Sylvaner than those from colder regions, while its freshness and intensity of aromas is preserved thanks to its location on the northern slopes. FeriËanci is primarily the home of two red sorts typical of the Pannonian basin − Blaufrankisch and Zweigelt. These two sorts succeed better here than anywhere else in Croatia. Wel-schriesling of FeriËanci is also an interesting and harmonic sort of wine, and possibly the most similar to the popular Kutjevo variety. The wine-making tradition of Slavonia has been influenced by a stormy history, with key moments being the destruction of vineyards by Turkish conquerors, their rebuilding by the newly established nobility, who gained land as an appanage for driving away the Turks, and fi nally the period of socialism and devastation of heritage, when mass production came into focus. Due to these circumstances, the vineyards in this region are larger than those in the other three regions mentioned in the beginning. There are not as many smaller, hobby-sized vineyards mainly for private consumption like in Dalmatia or the hilly regions of Croatia. Big collective land owners and agricultural cooperatives have shaped modern vineyard landscapes. Therefore, many impressive vineyards, such as –akovo, Kutjevo or Orahovica, follow such a historic pattern. Slavonia is a region of predominantly white wines. In the not too distant past, in the early 20 th century, the situation was quite

different and red sorts such as Kadarka or the Blaufrankisch were better represented in the overall assortment of wines in the region. Later developments, however, especially in the period from the Second World War until the turn of the century, saw white sorts almost entirely dominating over the red. Nowadays, thanks to the discoveries of red wine’s positive effects on health and the birth of a modern, more moderate and methodical wine consumer, red sorts are making a comeback and there are fewer and fewer vineyards that do not offer at least two red sorts in their assortment. The assortment of white wines is fairly wide. All internationally popular sorts are cultivated here, but it all begins and ends with one − the Welschriesling. The Welschriesling is the undisputed ruler of vineyards. This region is the cradle of premium Welschriesling; without exaggeration, the best Welschriesling in the world is made here. It may sound boastful, but it truly is so. That is why the Welschriesling has a special name in Croatia (Graπevina); so as to avoid confusion with the Riesling. In Croatian, the name Graπevina evokes the look of grapes in a certain phase of development, when they look like green peas (Cro. − graπak). Literally translated, Graπevina would mean pea like. It is a sort which is cultivated in a dozen European countries, but such quality can only be found in Croatia. While this sort usually produces the cheapest wines in the rest of Europe, Croatian Welschriesling produces premium category wines. Overcome possible prejudice you might have for the sort, and make sure to explore it when in Croatia. The Welschriesling from Daruvar is refreshing and has an attractive fruity aroma. The Welschriesling of Kutjevo has three faces; the first is a fresh wine with a herbal and fruity character rich in minerals; the second is riper, with flowery aromas and occasional traces of noble mould, as it is harvested later than usual. The third is very sweet, ice harvest wine. The Welschriesling from Slavonski Brod is fuller-bodied and somewhat stronger in alcohol content. There are also many other varieties, conditioned by the climate, such as the more elegant wines from FeriËanci or the herbal wines from the Pakrac area. The only other place in Croatia where such a diversity of styles of one sort can be found is in Istria, with the local sort of Malvasia. Welschriesling is currently going through its best era. Fifteen years ago there were only about ten producers of fine wine, but today there are at least fifty of them − big and small, and they are all very good. Thus, the Welschriesling has

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become a safe buy in all price ranges, both in supermarkets and wine cellars. The Blaufrankisch, a very important sort in the region, is in fact endangered. The tendency of most wine makers to include popular red sorts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah in their assortment has endangered the popularity of local sorts such as the Blufrankisch. It is a shame, because the Blufrankisch is a sort which produces better results from grapes from the Pannonian basin than grapes from abroad. It has fruitiness and freshness which gives the wine a perfect balance in these sun bathed, warm regions. Proof of that are the Miraz and Dika by Feravino labels. The Gewurtztraminer is the second most important white sort in the region. It usually produces very sweet wines. The –akovo diocese produces its famous sacramental wine from this sort. Traminer wines are aromatic, ripe and strong. Besides for ultrasweet predicate wines, it is also used for the production of predominantly full bodied dry wines with very mild acids, a specific smell and a flowery character, and almost always featuring small amounts of noble rot. The sweet varieties appear as warm and sweet nectars with a clear aromatic association with honey. They are very sweet, thick, piquant and stable in flavour. 50

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The Sylvaner has found perfect cultivation conditions in Orahovica. The appealing green apple aroma, typical of the sort, is present, but it is a fuller-bodied wine, more similar to Chardonnay than the Sylvaner of Franken. Zweigelt shares its destiny with the Blaufrankisch in every way. However, for better or for worse, it has always been somewhat less popular than its counterpart. Zweigelt is a mix of Blaufrankisch and St. Laurent. Chardonnay is unavoidable wherever we look, but produced here, it yields interesting results. They are more powerful and riper wines, often aged on yeast, which gives them creamier flavours, and given to mature partially or entirely in oak barrels of various sizes. The Rhine Riesling is dramatically different here than it is in the hilly parts of Croatia or other typically colder regions. It is still fresh enough, but tends to have a higher alcohol content, which results in a stronger, fullerbodied wine of a ripe character, often with a sweet flavour. In most parts of Slavonia and the Danube river basin, the Sauvignon does not feature the expected freshness. Exceptions are wines of Kutjevo and Daruvar, where they are very successfully produced. Refreshing and aromatic, but not too strong of a body, Sauvignons from these regions have won some of the most important medals for Croatia abroad. Cabernet Sauvignon − Merlot. These two popular sorts are successfully produced in the entire region. They are characterized by strength, thick fruitiness, occasional jammy quality, mildly piquant flavours and a high concentration; especially wines from the area of Slavonski Brod. These wine sorts originating from Kutjevo, on the other hand, are of a somewhat more elegant nature. Travel advice If you are coming from far away, plan to stay for several days. Travelling by car is a good option, but not the only one. A good number of smaller agencies organize wine tours, including transport from Zagreb, a guide and all-day care. If you intend to make your own travel arrangements, make sure to make a good plan and announce your arrival wherever you plan on going, because some winemakers do not welcome individual guests. Include a visit to one of the aforementioned pearls of nature in your day. When deciding where to eat, rural tourism farms are a safer choice than restaurants. With the exception of the rare few, fine restaurants are still a rare occurrence, whilst rural tourism farms serve simple but excellent home-made food. n

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■ PRIRODNE LJEPOTE NATURAL BEAUTIES

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SKRIVENA KOLIJEVKA EUROPSKE CIVILIZACIJE A HIDDEN CRADLE OF EUROPEAN CIVILIZATION Piše/By Dubravka Belas

Fotograﬁje/Photos Nenad Reberšak

Kad gledate raskoπni slavonski krajobraz, Ëini vam se da se to odmara neka divna, divovska æena Ëija se kosa, katkad smea od pruga tek zaoranih njiva, katkad zelena od tek razlistanih πuma, ili zlatna od dozrela æita, prostire unedogled ravniËarskim poljanama. A da je tisuÊama godina prije Krista ovdje bilo vrlo æivo, govore viπeslojni nalazi razliËitih kultura na jednome mjestu… When you look at the plush Slavonian landscape, it does seem to resemble a wonderful colossal woman at rest; its hair extends as far as the eye can see across low-lying plains, brown at places where ﬁelds have just been ploughed, green where forests are leafy, or golden where grains are ripening. Life was buzzing in the area thousands of years before Christ, as testiﬁed to by the multiple layers of different cultures which all existed in the same place… ad je Baudelaire, opsjednut svojom La Géante, divovskom æenom, maπtao o starim vremenima u kojima je Priroda svojom neobuzdanom moÊi joπ stvarala Ëudoviπnu djecu, tvrdio je, volio bi æivjeti uz golemu, mladu orijaπicu. Uz njezina bi se stopala mogao sklupËati poput krupnog maËka pokraj nogu neke kraljice. Volio bi,

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pjevao je, gledati kako ona svakoga dana zastraπujuÊe raste sve viπe, dok joj u oËima plivaju vlaæne izmaglice. A onda bi volio prelaziti njezinim oblinama, penjati se padinama golemih koljena, æeninim udolinama i visovima. A kad bi se ona katkad, za kasnih ljetnih popodneva, mirnih i bez oblaka, pruæila po krajoliku da se odmori, volio bi zaspati

bezbriæno u sjeni njezinih grudi, poput sela ugnijeæenoga pod planinom. Kad gledate raskoπni slavonski krajobraz, Ëini vam se da se to doista odmara neka divna, divovska æena Ëija se kosa, katkad smea od pruga tek zaoranih njiva, katkad zelena od tek razlistanih πuma, ili zlatna od dozrela æita, prostire unedogled ravniËarskim

poljanama. Kad planinarite njezinim gorjem, kao da opkoraËujete zaobljena zrela bedra, a Ëitavim svojim tijelom kao da orete vlaænim, πumovitim usjecima njezinog toplog tijela. Pa putujete dalje, sve viπe, gdje se ogoljeni obronci spajaju u par oznojenih, dareæljivih dojki. Nastavljate sve do oËiju u kojima se kupa tajnovita duπa, i tek se ogledate u vodi rijeka πto ovdje tako smireno teku. Onako kako u pravoj Mezopotamiji, gdje se voda spaja s drugom vodom, moÊne rijeke Tigris i Eufrat, puzeÊi usporedno, ispiru pijesak obeÊane pustinje u Crveno more, tako u europskoj, maloj Mezopotamiji, u manje poznatome slavonskom interamniju, Drava i Sava svoju sporu vodenu snagu predaju silnome Dunavu, da je, tako vjenËanu, makar posredno, prenese u crnom bojom oznaËeno more. To slavonsko meurjeËje, vodama omeeno u drhtav pravokutnik na karti Hrvatske, Ëudnim je koktelom od jednakih dijelova sluËajne skromnosti, nemara, neznanja ili lijenosti, dugo ostalo neprepoznatom i zatajenom kolijevkom europske civilizacije. Jednakodobna sumerskoj i staroegipatskoj, vuËedolska je kultura, s prvim pismom i dræavnim ustrojstvom, s ritualnim keramiËkim idolima, utisnutima na lonËariju, s najranijim europskim ideogramima, iz toga gnijezda na desnoj, slavonskoj

obali Dunava polako otjecala u srednju, juænu i istoËnu Europu. Pronaeni u slojevima ispod plodnoga dna nekadaπnjega Panonskoga mora, koje se tko zna kamo prelilo, isuπilo, upilo, ti ukrasi na posuu prikazuju Vode nad kojima pliva Zemlja, tranzicije Sunca, Venere, Marsa i poznata zvijeæa. U Vinkovcima, gradu s tragovima kontinuiranog æivota dugoga devet tisuÊa godina, u tome sjevernome Jerihonu, iskopana je i pet tisuÊa godina stara keramiËka posuda s urezanim vuËedolskim astralnim kalendarom. To je prvi europski kalendar prema kojemu godina poËinje u sumrak prvog dana proljeÊa, kad zimski Orion zapadne za obzorom na nekoliko mjeseci, zamjenjujuÊi se sa Suncem. Iako kalendar nastaje kad i sumerski i egipatski kalendari, nije njihova kopija i potpuno se od njih razlikuje. Utemeljen na sjevernoj 45. paraleli, njegova Ëetiri vodoravna pojasa odgovaraju Ëetirima godiπnjim dobima koja svojim klimatskim uvjetima odgovaraju baπ ovoj zemljopisnoj πirini. U njima se, osim Oriona, niæu zvijeæa karakteristiËna za svako od tih godiπnjih doba ∑ Plejade, Kasiopeja, Labud, Blizanci, Ribe s Pegazom. Indoeuropska je karakteristika i simbolizam Sunca i nepostojanje bilo kakva prikaza Mjeseca.

Prvobitno uspjeπni stoËari, poËeli su obraivati zemlju, oblikovati keramiku, na tkalaËkim stanovima tkati sukna, lijevati orue, ali praviti i oruæje, πto upozorava na prve vladare koje je trebalo braniti ili za njih osvajati prostore srednje Europe. VuËedolci su proizvodili bakar pola tisuÊljeÊa prije svih ostalih u tome podruËju, a postupno su proizveli i prvu svjetsku broncu i revolucionalizirali obradu bakra serijskim lijevanjem u keramiËke kalupe. Da je tisuÊama godina prije Krista ovdje bilo vrlo æivo, govore i viπeslojni nalazi razliËitih kultura na jednome mjestu ∑ s najstarijom sjedilaËkom ratarskom starËevaËkom kulturom pri dnu. Slijedi antika sa svojim tzv. rijeËnim Apoksiomenom, kamenim torzom atleta starim gotovo dva tisuÊljeÊa. Sluæio je kao jedan od potpornja na mostu rimskoga cara Hadrijana, za vrijeme kojega je Mursa, danaπnji Osijek, doæivjela procvat, a izronio je jednoga suπnog ljeta kad je vodostaj rijeke otkrio kamene blokove poruπena mosta a kameno tijelo izronilo iz mulja. U rimskim je Cibalama, danas Vinkovcima, rodnome mjestu rimskog cara Valentinijana, prije nekoliko godina, sluËajno, pri zaπtitnim arheoloπkim radovima, otkrivena ostava s blagom, vrlo vrijednom zbirkom luksuznog srebrnog posua, pladnjeva, vrËeva, zdjela i CROATIA AIRLINES

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Ëaπa iz Ëetvrtoga stoljeÊa. Da su joπ tisuÊama godina prije danaπnji Vinkovci bili trgovaËko raskrπÊe, svjedoËe nalazi tisuÊljetnih predmeta od opsidijana, crnoga vulkanskog stakla koje se ovdje prirodno ne nalazi. Uokolo grada u kojemu je nekad bila slavna svilana, tvornica peau de Lune, mjeseËeve koæe, odumiru stari bijeli dudovi, bez buba iz Ëijih usta viπe ne izlaze niti svile, niti gradom viπe πuπti surah, muslin i krepdeπin. Srednji je vijek obiljeæen zaËudnim Rudinskim glavama, reljeﬁma pronaenima u benediktinskoj opatiji na padini poæeπkoga gorja, ponad same Zlatne doline. Tih osamnaest ranoromaniËkih likova nadnaravno velikih oËiju i grubih, plosnatih lica, jedinstveno je i bez analogije u drugim naπim krajevima. Prostor povoljan za æivot i zasnivanje naselja nije, na æalost, samo popriπte preslojavanja i stapanja civilizacija, kultura i narodnosti, nego Ëesto biva ugroæen. Tako su se i na ovom podruËju smjenjivali vladari i osvajaËi. Neki su pritom donosili napredak, a neki samo ruπili, palili, otimali. Smjenjivali su se ovdje Rimljani i Kelti, Huni, Avari i Mongoli, Bizantinci, Bugari, Franci, kriæari, osmanlijski Turci, Maari, Nijemci, a nedavno susjedi iz Srbije. Dogaalo bi se da se svi civilizacijski dometi i dostignuÊa ratovima poniπte i

satru, da se sve izbriπe i da se mora poËeti ispoËetka. Ono πto je jaËe, na svojoj su koæi ovdje nauËili, ne znaËi uvijek i naprednije. U grbu Kraljevine Slavonije, uza stari znamen plemstva i dvije rijeke, nije sluËajno ucrtana i Marsova zvijezda, simbol neprestanih ratova koje je kraljevina tada vodila s Osmanlijama. U plamenu potpaljenom vojskom Sulejmana VeliËanstvenog padali su tako redom i Osijek, Brod, Poæega, –akovo, Valpovo ili su pretvarani u kadiluke i kasabe. Od kamena i opeke crkava gradile se silom dæamije, ali kako su sa silom doπle, tako su sa silom otiπle, ostalo je tek u Iloku tursko kupaliπte, hamam, a u nekim kuÊama i sinije, niski turski stolovi za kojima danas za objeda jedu djeca, a poslije se sklanjaju i vjeπaju o klinove na zidu… Na ovim se prostorima, kao πto kultura uvijek bude kontrapunkt i inat svim opsadama, isprepleÊu tradicijska, seljaËka s graanskom i plemiÊkom kulturom. Ljupkost skromnoga seljaËkog namjeπtaja s barokom, rokokoom i secesijom. Ne πire se ovuda samo grguravi zvuci tamburice i zveket zlaÊanih dukata na raskoπno vezenim narodnim noπnjama, nego se maglenim perivojima plemiÊkih dvoraca prostiru i fantazije Dore PejaËeviÊ, groﬁce koja je skladala neka od prvih hrvatskih orkestralnih djela. Poput staklenih perli, raCROATIA AIRLINES

suta su Slavonijom velebna plemiÊka zdanja, barokni dvorci i perivoji danas veÊ oronuli kao i nekad prepune staje i ambari na bogatim salaπima, tako gusto okruæeni bagremima da su se izdaleka priËinjali tek πumarcima. U seljaËkim kuÊama tople vezene, ovdje kaæu − krpane, ponjave za postelje mladenaca, magijskim su i erotskim motivima, πto su ih smiπljale vezilje, πtitile parove od uroka i poticale im plodnost. A tek πtikana i uπtirkana posteljina, perine i jastuci, snjeænobijele Ëipke sliËne podsuknjama snaπa, sav taj trud, sve to vrijeme provedeno u tkanju i vezenju, sve to ukraπavanje i kiÊenje, kao da je prkosilo ratovanju, kazivalo æelju da zbjegovi jednom zauvijek prestanu i da se mirno æivi u vlastitoj kuÊi. Nije to bilo bez visoke cijene dano Slavoniji, Baranji i Srijemu ni devedesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa. OsvajaËi s istoka ovaj put nisu stigli praπeÊi buËnim topotom kopita, jaπuÊi na vruÊim konjima iz Ëijih se lea puπi kao da su zapaljena, nego s cvileæom teπke tenkovske æeljezarije. Ponovno su gorjela sela, jedno za drugim, ponovno smo uËili negativnu geograﬁ ju. A opet, ovaj je kraj ipak viπe kraj veselih, neobuzdanih, rableovskih hedonista, viπe nestaπnih beÊara nego roenjem ratnika. Ali beÊari su se znali obraniti. Rat ostavi za sobom tragediju 60

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prognanih, prepukla srca æena i ranjene gradove koji se teπko oporavljaju i s tugom, ali i ponosom, pokazuju svoje oæiljke. Poput Vukovara, grada legende, Ëiji Êe vodotoranj, izranjavan iz obijesti s viπe od πest stotina projektila, ostati takav, neobnovljen, da bude simbol otpora i hrabrosti branitelja, ali i bijesa napadaËa. Da se ne zaboravi. Neπto dalje, na mjestu najveÊe masovne grobnice poslije Drugoga svjetskog rata, na Memorijalnom groblju Vukovara, 938 bijelih kriæeva bit Êe pobodeno kao da se 938 bijelih vilinskih konjica sluËajno, u ludom letu zabolo u crnu, plodnu, ozlijeenu zemlju. A nedaleka OvËara mogla je biti tek obiËna seoska farma, sliËna stotinama drugih, da na nju, te studene, nesretne kasne jeseni 1991., nije dovedeno 263 ranjenika i osoblja vukovarske bolnice i muËki pogubljeno. Danas, kad uokolo opet πume æita i mrmore πume, kad sunce svejednako grije, na tome straπnome mjestu takva mrænja i takva bol Ëine se nestvarnima. Ali oporavit Êe se posve i Slavonija, i Baranja i Srijem, oporavit Êe se potpuno ta zemlja Ëije se plodne oranice danas nejednako suπe na varljivome zimskom suncu, a ponegdje se meu grumenjem u duginim bojama prelijeva nafta, gdje se zelenilo πuma i njiva izmjenjuje u pravilnim Ëetvorinama, ondje gdje su

bluesun hotel kaj, Marija Bistrica

restaurant academia Hidden Oasis of Intimacy in the heart of romantic Zagorje

tel.+385 49 326 600 kaj@bluesunhotels.com www.hotelkaj.hr www.facebook.com/HotelKaj

Our cuisine abides by an honest, yet modern and recognizable presentation of traditional recipes. Each one of our ingredients is prepared with passion and tells a story from our garden and local farms.

voÊnjaci oteæali od savrπenog omjera trpkosti i slasti starinskih jabuka hrapave kore, rumene i zlatne i hraste poput jesenske πume. Gdje vinogradi zriju tako da im je i boja grozdova slatka, koliko god boje mogu biti slatke. Gdje ima svega, i nepreglednih polja æita, i svijetlih hrastovih πuma, i moËvara, i mlijeka, gdje se poslije poplava ribe praÊakaju u podrumima punima, po receptu starih Slavena, ukiseljena kupusa. U KopaËkome ritu, gdje se gnijezde milijuni ptica meu topolama i bijelim vrbicima, divlje guske i Ëaplje gacaju meu lopoËima, trstikom i πaπem, a jeleni se, i divlje svinje, ondje kriju od lovaca. Byron bi rekao: gdje je toliko obilje æive i stvarne ljepote da Ëovjek ne osjeÊa potrebu za slikama i kipovima. Gdje kaæu da se πarani za mjeseËine æestoko mrijeste po blatnim rukavcima, pa se noÊu nadaleko Ëuje pljuskanje napetih trbuha i da u tome strasnome i straπnome ljubavnom plesu katkad zaoru obliænje njive pa ih ujutro nalaze mrtve u vlastitoj krvi i mlijeËi. Gdje krave vruÊih vimena katkad zaostanu na otocima od paπnjaka kad ih okruæi voda, gdje slobodno, dok im crna griva vijori na vjetru, jure vitke lipiËke ædrebice, a ljudi rade od jutra do mraka, siju, æanju, sijeku, sedlaju, grade, melju, Ëiste, pjevaju na kirvajima i pirovima, æive.

Gdje se znalaËki rade krvavice, kobasice od riæe i krvi mesne peËenice, πvargli i preπani Ëvarci, ljutkasti kuleni i kulenove seke, soËna πunka i proπarane ploËe slanine πto se niæu po puπnicama i vise po tavanima, gdje u kotlovima krËkaju Ëobanci i riblji paprikaπi, u kruπnim se peÊima peku domaÊe pogaËe, makovnjaËe, orehnjaËe i salenjaci. Gdje teku zlatna i zelena vina, kutjevaËka, baranjska, iloËka, srijemska ili akovaËka, i misna, i ledena, πto su se uvijek rado pila i za carskim stolovima, osobito habsburπkima. Nazdravlja se pinotima, mirisnim tramincima, rizlinzima i rizvancima, graπevinama i moslavcima, slatkim zelencima, portugiscima, crnim merlotima, frankovkama i muπkatima.... Ondje gdje rijeËne obale noÊu svijetle MjeseËevim odrazom opijajuÊih truba divljih datura, i miriπu ujutro kroz maglu πto se, gusta poput vate, Ëitav dan katkad zadræi nad vodom pa se Ëuje samo pljeskanje vesala a s drvenih se laa, teglenica i splavi ne vide obale. Ondje gdje iz mulja i sluzi razmoËenih neonskih vretenaca izranjaju bjelouπke uznemirene niskom vodom i antiËki kipovi, a goleme tikve i lubenice od slasti pucaju nad πirokim pukotinama presuπenih polja. Gdje tek osvijetljeni vlakovi probijaju noÊnu tiπinu, a putnici samo slute dobri stari æivot

Katedrala u –akovu Cathedral, –akovo

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Vukovarski vodotoranj Water tower, Vukovar

s druge strane prozorskih stakala. Smjenjuju se tako i prolaze usnula sela, tihi utvreni gradovi, svijetle prozori stanova u kojima se zvecka posuem, titraju plava televizorska svjetla, gdje se spava, svaa, vodi ljubav. Prolaze visoki jablani postrojeni duæ pustih, bijelih cesta prije nego πto ih sve, u nepovrat, proguta daljina. n

hen Baudelaire, obsessed with his La Géante, a giantess, fantasized about times of old when Nature in her glad excess brought forth living marvels, he said that he should have loved to dwell with a young giantess, like a voluptuous cat about the feet of a queen and see her grow each day to a more fearful size, and see the flowering of her soul, and the first flames of passionate longing in the misty depths of her eyes; To scale the slopes of her huge knees, explore at will the hollows and the heights of her − and when, oppressed by the long afternoons of summer, cloudless and still, she would stretch out across the countryside to rest, and he should have loved to sleep in the shadow of her breast, quietly as a village nestling under a hill. Indeed, when you look at the plush Slavonian landscape, it does seem to resemble a won-

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derful colossal woman at rest; its hair extends as far as the eye can see across low-lying plains, brown at places where ﬁelds have just been ploughed, green where forests are leafy, or golden where grains are ripening. Climbing its hilltops is like straddling curvaceous ripe hips, while your entire body feels like ploughing through the moist, wooded crevices of a warm body. You continue to travel, even further, even higher, to a place where its bare slopes merge into a pair of perspiring, generous breasts. And you go on, all the way up to its eyes where a mysterious soul bathes and where you admire your image in the mirror of the serenely ﬂowing rivers. Just like in Mesopotamia proper, where water merges with water, and where the powerful Euphrates and Tigris creep in parallel and wash the sand of the promised desert away into the Red Sea, in the little Mesopotamia of Europe, the somewhat less famous Slavonian interamnium, the unhurried water power of the Drava and Sava rivers marries with the mighty Danube to be carried, albeit indirectly, to the Black Sea. Owing to a remarkable cocktail composed of equal parts of accidental modesty, negligence, ignorance or perhaps laziness, the famous Slavonian Interamnium, appearing as

a quivering rectangle outlined by water on a map of Croatia, remained an unrecognized and obscured cradle of European civilization for a long time. Contemporaneous with Sumerian and Ancient Egyptian cultures, the culture of VuËedol seeped slowly from its nest on the right side of the Slavonian bank of the Danube into Central, Southern and Eastern Europe and offered it its first script, its state organization, ritual ceramic idols and the earliest European ideograms imprinted into its pottery. Ornamented dishes, discovered in the layers underlying the former Pannonian Sea which had either flown into an unknown or dried out or had been soaked in, depict Waters with the Earth floating over them, the transitions of the Sun, Venus, Mars and the known galaxies. A fi ve thousand year old ceramic dish with a carved astral calendar of VuËedol, the first ever in Europe, was excavated in Vinkovci, in this Jericho of the North, a city where traces of uninterrupted human habitation span nine thousand years. According to the VuËedol calendar, a year starts at dusk of the first day of spring, when the winter Orion sinks behind the horizon and stays there for a few months, while switching places with the Sun. Although the calendar was created concurrently with those spawned by the Sumerians and ancient Egyptians, it is not a copy as they are completely different. Based on the 45th parallel, its four horizontal layers correspond to the four seasons and reflect this precise geographic width and its climate conditions. Besides the Orion, it depicts galaxies typical of each of the seasons: Pleiades, Cassiopeia, the Swan, the Gemini, and the Pisces with the Pegasus. Other IndoEuropean features are the symbolism of the Sun and quite a conspicuous absence of any sort of depiction of the Moon. Originally, they were successful cattle breeders; then they started working the land, moulding ceramics, weaving cloth on weaving looms, casting tools and making weapons, which points to the fact that there were rulers who needed to be defended or for whom territories in Central Europe had to be conquered. The VuËedol people produced copper at least half a millennium before anybody else in the area. They gradually learned how to produce bronze, as the first in the world who knew how to do it, and they also revolutionized copper processing by serial casting into moulds. Life was buzzing in the area thousands of years before Christ, as testifi ed to by the multiple layers of different cultures which all existed in the same place, but not at the same time. The oldest one was the sedentary

farming culture of StarËevac, whose remains were found at the very bottom. The period of antiquity followed, as testified to by the so-called river Apoxyomenos, a nearly two thousand year old stone torso of an athlete. The sculpture had originally served as a buttress of the bridge built under the Roman Emperor Hadrian during whose reign Mursa, today’s Osijek, became a prosperous city. It surfaced during a dry summer when the low water level revealed the stony blocks of a collapsed bridge and the stone torso which emerged from the mud. A few years ago, quite by chance, during protective archaeological works, a closet full of treasures was discovered in Roman Cibaleum, today’s Vinkovci. It is an exceptionally valuable collection of luxury silverware comprising plates, jugs, bowls and cups dating back to the 4th century. Thousands of years before that, today’s Vinkovci was a crossroads of trading routes as testified to by the thousand year old artefacts made from obsidian, a black volcanic glass which does not occur naturally in the area. Old white mulberry trees are slowly dying out all around the city which once housed a famous silk factory, le peau de Lune, or moon skin. Silk thread no longer comes out of the precious silkworms’ mouths, nor do muslin and crepe de chine rustle through the streets. The Medieval period produced breath-taking Rudina heads, the reliefs which were discovered in the Benedictine Abbey on the slopes of Poæega Hills, right above the Golden Valley. The early Romanesque characters, a total of 18 of them, featuring abnormally large eyes and coarse, flat faces are unique, without analogy in our regions. Unfortunately, this area which has been so conducive to life and human settlement was not just a stage where civilizations, cultures and nations followed each other and merged peacefully; it has often come under threat. Rulers and conquerors took turns; some brought prosperity while others only plundered, destroyed and torched. The rulers who came to conquer were the Romans, Celts, Huns, Ancient Avars, Mongolians, Byzantines, Bulgarians, French, the Crusaders, Ottoman Turks, Hungarians and Germans. The most recent masters of death were guests from Serbia. Wars often annihilated and crushed all that the previous civilizations had achieved; everything was obliterated and a new life had to start from scratch. People have learned first-hand that might is not necessarily more progressive. It is not by chance that next to the old symbol of nobility and the two rivers in the coat of CROATIA AIRLINES

arms of the Kingdom of Slavonia a Mars star is depicted as the symbol of ongoing warfare between the Kingdom of Slavonia and the Ottoman Turks. The inferno ignited by the army of Suleiman the Magnificent devoured one city after the other: Osijek, Brod, Poæega, –akovo and Valpovo. The settlements which were not annihilated became Turkish kadiluks or kasabas. The conqueror took the building material from the former churches and used it to build mosques by force. Eventually, they were forced out in the same way they had forced themselves in. A few things remain from those times, including the Turkish hammam in Ilok, whereas a few houses still keep sinijas, low Turkish dining tables at which children still eat, and which are moved after the meal and hung on bolts on the wall. Culture always emerges as the counterpoint to and defiance against sieges, which is why traditional rural culture is intertwined with urban and noble cultures in this area. Charmingly simple rural furniture on the one hand, and Baroque, Rococo and Viennese Secession styles on the other. There is certainly more to the region than the quivering sounds of tamburitzas and the clinking of gold ducats on the lavishly embroidered national costumes; Countess Dora PejaËeviÊ composed some of the first Croatian orchestral pieces and her fantasies still reverberate across the foggy grounds of noble manors. Magnificent edifices that used to belong to the nobility, as well as baroque manors and parks are strewn all over Slavonia like strings of pearls. Today, they are as rundown as the barns and granaries which were once overflowing with goods from prosperous rural farms. Surrounded by densely growing acacia trees, from afar they looked like nothing more than thickets. In rural households, warm blankets with magical erotic motifs embroidered by diligent hands were put on bridal beds to protect young couples from evil spells and to boost fertility. And what can be said about the intricate needlework on starched bed linen, duvets and cushions, and the snow-white lacework similar to young brides’ petticoats? All that effort, all that time spent weaving and embroidering, all the decoration and embellishments, all of that as a defiance to warfare, as an expression of the desire for fleeing to stop once and for all so that one could live peacefully in one’s own home. Slavonia, Baranja and Srijem again paid a price for that wish in the 90s of last century. That time, conquerors from the East did not arrive in a cloud of dust raised by the hooves of noisy horses; they did not come riding on hot horses with smoke rising from their backs as if they were on fire; their arrival was 64

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announced by the screeching of heavy tank armour. Once again, villages were set ablaze, one after another; once again we studied a negative geography. This region is hardly known for God-given warriors. Rather, its people are better known as carefree carousers and unbridled hedonists who could pass for characters in Rabelais stories. Yet, when push came to shove, the carousers knew how to defend themselves. Every war leaves behind a tragedy, full of refugees, broken hearts of women and wounded cities which take a long time to heal while showing their scars with both sadness and pride. In Vukovar, a legend city, there stands a water tower which was wantonly wounded by more than six hundred projectiles. It will not be repaired as it has a purpose; to serve as a symbol of resistance and the courage of defenders, and a reminder of the rage of the attacker. This is done so that things are not forgotten. A bit further afield is the biggest mass grave created after World War II; the Vukovar Memorial Cemetery. The 938 white crosses erected there look like 938 dragonflies that have haphazardly landed on the fertile black soil during a madness-driven flight. Nearby OvËara could have been just another unassuming village farm, like any of the hundreds of others, if wounded people and the staff of the Vukovar hospital had not been brought there and deplorably executed in the fatal late autumn of 1991. Today, when wheat rustles in the fields and forests murmur around them, when the sun shines bright, such hatred and pain seem surreal in this atrocious place. But Slavonia, Baranja and Srijem shall recover; this land where fertile soil dries unevenly under a deceitful winter sun; and where oil glistens in the colours of the rainbow among lumps of soil; where the green hues of forests and ploughed fields take turns in regular rectangles; where orchards are abundant with the perfect ratio between the acerbity and sweetness of old coarse-skinned apples, red and golden and rusty like a forest in autumn. This is a place where vineyards ripen so that even the colours of their grapes are sweet, as much as colours can be sweet. This is where there are riches galore, endless wheat fields and radiant oak forests, swamps and milk; where after floods fish dabble in cellars full of sour kraut prepared according to the recipes of ancient Slav tribes. In KopaËki Rit, millions of birds nest among poplar trees and white willows; wild geese and herons squelch among lotuses, canes and reeds, and deer and boar hide from hunters. Byron would say: This is a place where there is such an abundance of real living beauty

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that one does not feel the need for paintings and sculptures. This is where carp is said to spawn so ferociously along muddy backwaters on moonlit nights that the splashing of silver bellies can be heard far afield at night; sometimes, their passionate and horrendous love dance can be heard in nearby fields and people find them in the morning dead in their own blood and milt. This is where cows with hot udders are sometimes left stranded on islands of grazing land surrounded by water; where slender Lipik fillies run freely while their black manes flutter in the wind; where people toil from dawn to dusk, they sow, harvest, cut, saddle, build, mill, clean, sing at village fetes and weddings, and live. This is where a black pudding filled with rice and blood is made, grilling sausages, pressed cracklings, spicy kulen, juicy hams and streaked slabs of bacon, all of which are aligned to hang in curing kilns and attics; where meat stews and fish paprikash simmer in cauldrons; where homemade bread, poppy seed and walnut rolls and lard cookies are baking in the ovens; where golden and green wines from Kutjevo, Baranja, Ilok, Srijem or –akovo are poured - among them, the altar wines and ice wines that have been happily enjoyed at imperial tables, particularly those of the Habsburg dynasty. Toasts are raised with Pinots, fragrant Traminers, Rieslings and Rivaners, Welschrieslings and Moslavac wines, sweet Zelenac wines, Portugiesers, red Merlots, Frankovkas and Muscats... At night, the intoxicating tubular blossom of wild-growing datura is reflected in the moonlight on the river banks, while their morning smell exudes through fog as thick as cotton wool which can linger above the water the whole day, so that all you can hear is the splashing of oars, while the banks remain invisible from the wooden boats, barges and floats. This is where copperheads disturbed by low water and antique sculptures emerge from the sludge and slime of drowned neon damselfl y, while huge pumpkins and watermelons burst open with sweetness over the wide crevices of dry fields. This is a place where sparsely lit trains pierce the silence of the night, while its passengers can only imagine the kind of good old life that takes place beyond the window panes. Dreamy villages pass by, one after the other, silent fortified towns, the illuminated squares of apartment blocks in which crockery rattles, blue television screens flicker, where people sleep, argue and make love... Tall poplars lining the deserted white roads pass before one’s eyes long before the distance swallows them forever. n 66

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■ KONTINENTALNA HRVATSKA INLAND CROATIA

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Piπe/By Anika Rešetar Drvar

Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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Trg Ante StarËeviÊa Ante StarËeviÊ Square

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Robna kuĂ&#x160;a i pogled na katedralu Department Store and View at the Cathedral

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O æivotu u gradu na Dravi maπtaju mnogi, jer Osijek je dovoljno velik da nudi sve πto treba za dobar æivot. Osijek je grad s najviπe zelenila i zelenih povrπina u Hrvatskoj. Stari grad, Tvrava, ili, kako je OsjeËani zovu, Tvra, jedinstvena je po oËuvanosti i pravi je turistiËki biser. 72

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Many dream about living in Osijek because this city on the Drava river is just big enough to fulﬁl everyone’s needs. Osijek boasts the most greenery and the largest green surfaces in Croatia. The old town, the Fortress, or Tvra as the citizens of Osijek call it, is unique in terms of the state of conservation and as such it has become a real tourist gem. CROATIA AIRLINES

Muzej Slavonije, Osijek Museum of Slavonia, Osijek

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Crkva sv. Petra i Pavla Church of St. Peter and St. Paul

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Tvra iz zraka Fortress (Tvra) from air

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Muzej Slavonije, Osijek Museum of Slavonia, Osijek

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Trg sv. Trojstva, Tvra Holy Trinity Square, Tvra

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Arheološki muzej, Osijek Archaeological Museum, Osijek

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Arheološki muzej, Osijek Archaeological Museum, Osijek

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Muzej Slavonije, Osijek Museum Slavonia, Osijek

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Kino Urania Urania cinema

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sijek je grad bez stresa. Grad æivi s Dravom uz koju se stoljeÊima gradio i ta ga rijeka prati poput vjernoga psa koji pritajeno bdi nad svime πto se zbiva u gradu. Uz rijeku je sagraena prekrasna πetnica na kojoj mnogi voze bicikl, rolaju se ili trËkaraju, ali mnogo je viπe onih koji se koriste njome kao πto je vjekovima bio red i obiËaj − kao prekrasnom promenadom za susrete, upoznavanja, zaljubljivanja i povremena ogovaranja. Osijek ima onu srednjoeuropsku ugodnu komociju (Gemütlichkeit) koja sve stvari obavlja sa stamenim mirom, ugodno, bez pretjeranoga uzbuenja πto se Ëuva samo za prilike koje to i iziskuju, kao πto su smrt i teπka bolest. Jedan od razloga πto je tako jest i to da Osijek, kao i Slavonija, Ëiji je glavni grad, ne poznaju glad. Stariji ljudi u Dalmaciji obiËan bijeli kruh joπ i sad zovu kolaËem, a u Slavoniji naziv kolaË zasluæuje samo neπto πto sadræava veliku koliËinu jaja, oraha i Ëokolade. Rezultat je bogatstva namirnica veliko umijeÊe upravo u slastiËarstvu − svaka snaha morala je nekoÊ znati ispeÊi barem pet torti, petnaest kolaËa i nekoliko vrsta keksa. Ako vam to zvuËi apstraktno, pogledajte izloæene kolaËe u kavani Waldinger, koja Ëuva ugoaj nekadaπnjih beËkih kavana. Bit Êete na pravim mukama kad pokuπate odluËiti koliko i koje Êete kolaËe kuπati. A ako vas kojim sluËajem zadesi poslovni ruËak, morate se pripremiti na pravu kalorijsku rapsodiju. Zbog πarfa kulena i zavodljive kulenove seke odmah Êete zaboraviti na posao. Slavonska vina bogata su okusom i mazno klize niz grlo, pa je i tu potreban oprez. U gradu treba svakako kuπati Ëobanac koji najbolje uspijeva kad ga se kuha u kotliÊu na tronoπÊu na vatri od drva s junetinom, janjetinom, svinjetinom, teletinom i svinjskim noæicama s priliËno slatke i ljute paprike i neπto Ëeπnjaka. A volite li slatkovodnu ribu, obvezatan je pohod na osjeËki ﬁπ paprikaπ od πarana, πtuke i soma. U gradu moæete pojesti kao uæinu i sjajan perkelt (blizak gulaπu, ali proﬁnjeniji), te pileÊi paprikaπ s noklicama. Zbog stalne sitosti Slavonije, njezini su stanovnici stameni i dobroÊudni. Slavonci su baπ zbog hrane i podneblja temperamentom mirni, ali odluËni i strastveni kad treba i kad se pristoji. Duh slavonskog veselja najbolje Ëuvaju poznati beÊarci, narodne pjesme u obliku dvostiha od dva deseterca, Ëije se zadnje rijeËi rimuju. U studenom 2011. godine Unesco je upisao beÊarac u svoj popis nematerijalne kulturne baπtine ËovjeËanstva. Svi beÊarci imaju istu melodiju i pjevaju se uzastopno, tekst im je humoristiËan, satiriËan i Ëesto vrlo lascivan. Svrha je beÊarca

nasmijati i standardni su reportoar na manje formalnim proslavama. U Osijeku je roen Julije Njikoπ, skladatelj, dirigent i osnivaË tamburaπkog festivala, kao i njegova supruga Vera Svoboda, poznata pjevaËica slavonskih pjesama. O poznatim OsjeËanima kao πto su primjerice dva nobelovca za kemiju (Prelog i RuæiËka), kardinalu ©eperu (prefekt vatikanske Kongregacije za nauk prije kardinala Ratzingera, danaπnjeg Pape), najveÊemu hrvatskome meceni (biskupu Josipu Jurju Strossmayeru), jednom od glasovitih hollywoodskih producenata (Branku Lustigu), poznatome hrvatskom voditelju i spikeru, uvijek odmjerenom Oliveru Mlakaru, moÊi Êete proËitati na stranici www.essekkeri.hr. U Osijeku su se raali ljudi koji su uspjeli u bijelom svijetu i sudjelovali u vaænim zbivanjima i davali svoj doprinos na svim podruËjima ljudske djelatnosti. Svijest o tome u Osijeku se njeguje, a uspomene na velikane Ëuva kao baπtina. Tako se primjerice na sluæbenim stranicama grada Osijeka www.Osijek.hr nalazi i rubrika OsjeËki spomendan za sva 365 dana u godini, na kojima dr.sc. Zlata ÆivakoviÊ Keræe ispisuje vaæna zbivanja za grad Osijek i podsjeÊa na znaËajne OsjeËane. SjeÊanje na nekoÊ vaæne industrijalce, bankare, gradonaËelnike, dobrotvore, umjetnike i profesore osnaæuje grad i na odreen naËin Ëak ga Ëini i samodostatnim. Cijela Slavonija rijetko se nameÊe, a joπ rjee moli za pomoÊ. U Osijeku i Slavoniji stanovnici veÊ stoljeÊima suvereno æive naËelo supsidijarnosti, jedno od najvaænijih za ustrojstvo Europske unije, prema kojemu sve stvari koje se mogu rijeπiti bez ukljuËenja viπe instancije treba rijeπiti ondje gdje problem nastaje. To je i jedini grad u Hrvatskoj u kojemu postoji Klub ﬁlantropa, koji se zauzima za dobrobit vlastite lokalne zajednice po uzoru na prve zaklade imuÊnih graana i graditelja πkola, sirotiπta i bolnice, i na Ëijim stranicama moæete i proËitati crtice o zakladama grofa JankoviÊa, prve osjeËke zakladnice Josipe Glembay i zakladi Huttler-Kohlhoffer-Monsperger (www.zadobrobit.hr). Rezultat je to sposobnosti da se nekoliko puta razruπen grad uzdigne iz pepela i ponovno rodi kao da je rijeË o Feniksu. Grad Osijek prvi se put spominje kao Eszek 1196. godine u ispravi hrvatsko-ugarskoga kralja Emerika, iako je podruËje bilo nastanjeno joπ u kameno doba. Iskopine su pokazale da su u 4.st.pr.Kr. na podruËju grada æivjeli Kelti, a tek su Rimljani sagradili veliki antiËki grad imenom Mursa. O vaænosti naselja svjedoËi Ëinjenica da je car Hadrijan rimsku Mursu uzdigao na status grada-kolonije 124. kad je i posjetio Panoniju. VeÊ tada je, dakle, Mursa stekla civitet, tj. graansko pravo i

municipalno ureenje. U to vrijeme podignut je veÊ i prvi stabilni most preko Drave na lokalitetu danaπnjega Donjega grada. VeÊ u 2.st. u gradu je postojala zajednica krπÊana. Huni su u 5.st. opustoπili Slavoniju, pa i grad Mursu. U 7.st. naseljavaju Slavoniju Slaveni, a u srednjem vijeku grad postaje razvijeno trgovaËko, obrtniËko, prometno, upravno, vlastelinsko i kulturno srediπte Slavonije. Prvi je pisani spomen grada u odluci o osjeËkoj skelarini i trgovini u korist opata i cistercitskog samostana Cikador iz 1196. godine. Odluka je presuda hrvatsko-ugarskog kralja Emerika, jer i osjeËki plemiÊi KruæiÊi svojatali su pravo na osjeËku brodarinu. Osijek je ime koje su gradu dali stari Slaveni prema mjestu gdje vlada oseka, tj. gdje je suho za staniπte ljudi. Iz tog prvog dokumenta iz 1196.g. znamo da je u Osijeku postojao forum, πto odgovara sajamskom gradu. Postojao je pravni sustav koji je ureivao gospodarske, trgovaËke, porezne prilike i prava. U povlastici se spominju i Izmaeliti (Æidovi) i Bizeni (bizantinci), tj. trgovci s istoka. Stanovnici Osijeka bili su Hrvati i Maari, a u drugoj polovici 15.st. u gradu ih je æivjelo gotovo 2000, πto je oznaka za velik grad u ono vrijeme. Graani Osijeka bili su uglavnom obrtnici, trgovci i sluæbenici. Bilo je mlinara, pekara, mesara, krojaËa, postolara, krznara, zlatara, kovaËa, klesara, kotlara, tesara, sedlara, ugljenara, konjuπara, laara, brijaËa, sviraËa. A onda su Slavoniju zauzeli Turci koji su Osijek razorili 15. kolovoza 1526.godine. Veliki vezir Ibrahim-paπa razorio je Osijek do temelja, ali mudri sultan Sulejman dao ga je ponovno sagraditi zbog vaænoga strateπkog poloæaja. Kasim-paπi iz PeËuha dao je 500 kesa srebra da grad ozida, sredi kuÊe i sagradi magaze. Osijek se u svijetu proËuo tada po poznatome turskome mostu zvanom Sulejmanov most, koji je povezivao grad i Dardu. Most je podignut za Sulejmanove ekspedicije na MohaË, bio je pontonski, dug 248 i πirok 2 hvata, nazvan Sulejmanovim mostom i smatran osmim svjetskim Ëudom. CROATIA AIRLINES

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Nakon odlaska Turaka (29. rujna 1687. - tog dana u Osijeku sve crkve osloboenje obiljeæavaju zvonjavom u 11 sati) mijenja se orijentalno obiljeæje grada i u Osijek se vraÊa srednjoeuropski duh. Od 1527. godine Hrvatska i Ugarska prihvatile su novog kralja iz kuÊe Habsburg, te se otad pa sve do 1918. godine Osijek nalazi u zajednici Austrijske Monarhije. Dolaskom Austrijanaca, tri dotad razjedinjene gradske opÊine, Gornji grad, Donji grad i Tvra, 2. prosinca 1786. godine postaju jedna cjelina. Taj se datum slavi kao Dan grada Osijeka. U 18. i 19. stoljeÊu Osijek postaje multietniËki grad, a u njemu i danas æive Hrvati, Srbi, Nijemci i Maari. (Danas Osijek ima jedanaest katoliËkih æupa, jednu evangelistiËku, dvije pravoslavne parohije, Evaneoski teoloπki fakultet, Æidovsku opÊinu, muπke samostane franjevaca i isusovaca.) Poslije Zagreba, Osijek je dugo bio najrazvijeniji grad Hrvatske. Slom Kraljevine Jugoslavije i Drugi svjetski rat opet su ostavili trag razaranja, a grad je osobito patio tijekom ratne agresije u poËetku devedesetih godina proπlog stoljeÊa. Nakon Domovinskog rata grad se dugotrajno obnavlja i na putu je uspostavljanja nove etape u svom æivotu. Danaπnji Osijek sastoji se od staroga grada, Tvre, sagraenoga veÊinom u 18. stoljeÊu, zatim Gornjeg grada, Donjega grada i Novoga grada (s naseljima Jug I i Jug II), Cvjetnog naselja te Retfale i Industrijske Ëetvrti. Osijek je grad s najviπe zelenila i zelenih povrπina u Hrvatskoj; na podruËju grada nalazi se 17 parkova i perivoja na ukupnoj povrπini od 394.000 m². Tvrava, ili, kako je OsjeËani zovu, Tvra, jedinstvena je po oËuvanosti i pravi je turistiËki biser koji su planski gradile austrijske vlasti po uzoru na nizinske nizozemske utvrde od 1. kolovoza 1712. do 1722. godine. Upravo ta oËuvanost cjeline kao da stoljeÊima Ëuva neko pomalo sveËanije raspoloæenje i duh starih vremena.Tvra je graena od sedam bastiona smjeπtenih od istoka prema zapadu oko gradske jezgre i opasana zaπtitnom utvrdom. Unutraπnjim prostorima Tvre dominiraju dvije najvaænije prometnice: Cardo (danaπnja FranjevaËka ulica) i Decumanus (Ulica Franje KuhaËa). U prvoj polovici 18. stoljeÊa Tvra je promijenila izgled. Sagraene su zgrade za potrebe vojske, crkve, samostani i graanske kuÊe u baroknom slogu. Na tornju glavne straæe nalazio se sat (1709.g.), a uvedena je i uliËna petrolejska rasvjeta. U Tvri su 1729. g. otvoreni gimnazija, tiskara (1735.g.) i njemaËko kazaliπte, a proveden je i javni vodovod i kanalizacija, pa su s pravom Slavonci i OsjeËani Tvru nazivali Metropolis urbs. Tijekom vremena vojno se znaËenje osjeËke Tvre smanjivalo, i to po-

sebice nakon carske odluke Josipa II. godine 1783. g. kad je vrhovno zapovjedniπtvo vojske za Slavoniju i Srijem preseljeno iz Osijeku u Petrovaradin. U 18. i 19. stoljeÊu Tvra je multietniËki grad u kojemu su æivjeli Hrvati i doseljenici iz ©tajerske, Kranjske, Bavarske, Moravske, Italije, Francuske, Ugarske, Bugarske. Tvravske zidine koËile su po ocjeni suvremenika gospodarski i prometni razvoj grada, pa su stanovnici Tvre 1868. traæili od Hrvatskoga sabora dopuπtenje za ruπenje bedema osjeËke tvrave, πto im je uspjelo tek 1923.godine. Gradnja elektrane i uvoenje elektriËnog tramvaja u promet ubrzalo je te radove, pa je obrambeni dio tvrave do 1926. godine do temelja poruπen. Danas je osjeËka Tvra po povijesnim i graditeljskim obiljeæjima spomenik nulte kategorije. Graanske kuÊe, muzeji, crkve, romantiËne uliËice i prekrasni i ponosni trgovi ponukat Êe vas da Tvri posvetite barem dva sata. Tu se nalazi i nekoliko dobrih restorana i zanimljivo ureenih kafiÊa, pa moæete predahnuti i sabrati dojmove kad god vam to srce poæeli. Svake prve subote u mjesecu tu se odræava sajam antikviteta i besplatni razgledi za turiste s vodiËem, koji poËinju u 11 sati. Dobro je informirati se o ponudama na www.tzosijek.hr i www.putovanjaslavonijom.hr. Uz Tvru, Osijek posjeduje i najljepπe oËuvanu secesijsku Ëetvrt u cijeloj Hrvatskoj, koja danas nosi naziv Europska avenija. Kad se sagradila, nosila je ime po podæupanu Levinu Chavraku. RijeË je o ulici pravih buræoaskih secesijskih vila s ogradama od kovanog æeljeza, njegovanim predvrtovima, raskoπnim ulazima za koËije i otmjenim stubiπtima. Gradili su ih i u njima stanovali industrijalci i obrazovana buræoazija. Osijek je, uza Zagreb, u drugoj polovici 19. stoljeÊa bio najjaËe gospodarsko srediπte. U njemu je radila svilana osnovana joπ u 18.st., tvornica ulja koju je 1826. godine utemeljio Michael Ley, Reisner i Fötzmayer imali su tvornicu æigica od 1856.g., vlasnik tvornice alata i strojeva bio je Melchior Leicht (osnovana 1863.g.), Samuel Reinitz osniva 1894. g. Saponiju, 1905. godine osnovano je dioniËko druπtvo za tvornicu πeÊera, a dvadesetih godina osnivaju Kaiser i Stark Prvu osjeËku tvornicu kandita. Sve te aktivnosti zduπno i znalaËki pomagala je OsjeËka komora osnovana 6. lipnja 1853. godine, koja je potaknula i osnivanje Prve osjeËke dioniËke πtedionice za financiranje lokalnoga gospodarstva. DioniËari su bili grof Karlo Eltz iz Vukovara, grof Petar PejaËeviÊ iz Retfale, grof Heinrich Khuen iz Nuπtra, ali i akovaËki biskup J.J. Strossmayer i osjeËki veletrgovac Anton Gorjup, te joπ 140 osjeËkih graana. VeÊ nekoliko godina poslije (1869.) komora je, na prijedlog

predsjednika »ordaπiÊa, predloæila i osnivanje Slavonske komercijalne i eskomptne banke, a 1872. godine registrirana je i Slavonska srediπnja πtedionica. Poduzetan duh i radinost stvorili su na bogatom tlu Slavonije prelijep grad Osijek u kojemu doista treba uæivati i uËiti na dobrim primjerima. Najbolje je rezervirati cijeli vikend i gospodski polako uæivati u bogatoj ponudi πto ih nudi prijestolnica raskoπne Slavonije. ■ sijek is a stress-free city. The city lives with its river Drava, along whose banks it has been growing for centuries. The river follows it like a faithful dachshund who discreetly vigils over its goings-on. A lovely promenade has been constructed alongside the river, and nowadays many people cycle, rollerblade and jog along it, but there is a vastly greater number of those who use it as one really should, as has been customary and appropriate for centuries ∑ as a beautiful promenade where one can meet people, fall in love or occasionally gossip about them. Osijek has that pleasant Central European feel, that Gemütlichkeit which allows it to carry out its chores with an unperturbed calm, while reserving heightened emotions for more deserving occasions, such as a death or a serious illness. One of the underlying reasons for that attitude is the fact that Slavonia, including its capital Osijek, does not know hunger. Elderly people in Dalmatia still call white bread cake, whereas in Slavonia, only a large quantity of eggs, walnuts and chocolate make a dish worthy of the title. The abundance of ingredients has resulted in quite remarkable patisserie making skills. Back in the day, every young bride was expected to be able to make at least five layered cakes with fillings, fifteen different types of patisseries and a variety of cookies. If this sounds abstract, cast a glance at the pastries

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on display at Waldinger Café, which fosters the atmosphere of a one-time Viennese coffee house. Making a choice as to what pastries and how many of them to taste will be nothing short of the torment of Tantalus. And should you happen to be invited to a business lunch, you have to brace yourself for a true calorie rhapsody. The spicy kulen and the seductive kulen’s sister will make you forget business straight away. Slavonian wines, rich in taste, slide down one’s throat ever so smoothly; so a degree of caution would again be well advised. When in Osijek, you must taste Ëobanac, which is best prepared in a cauldron on a tripod suspended over a fire of wood, and is made of beef, lamb, pork, veal, pig’s legs and plenty of sweet and hot paprika, and some garlic. If you like river fish, the order of the day is fish paprikash. In Osijek it is made with carp, pike and catfish. There are a lot of places in town where you can have a mid-morning snack and an excellent perkelt, (similar to goulash but more refined), as well as a chicken paprikash with noodles. The permanent condition of feeling full has made Slavonians strong and benevolent. Food and climate have made Slavonians the way they are: easy going and of a calm disposition, but also determined and passionate when need be and when appropriate. The spirit of Slavonian merriment is best reflected in the popular beÊarac, a folk song consisting of a number of two couplets in decasyllables whose last words rhyme. In November 2011, UNESCO entered beÊarac onto its list of intangible world heritage. All beÊarac verses are sung to the same tune, in a series which can last indefinitely; their text is humorous, satirical and quite often lascivious. The purpose of beÊarac is to make people laugh, which makes it a standard part of the repertoire at less formal festive occasions. Osijek is the birth place of Julije Njikoπ, a composer, conductor and the founder of the Tamburica Festival, and his wife Vera Svoboda, a famous singer of Slavonian songs. Visit the internet pages at http://www.essekkeri.hr/ where you will find information about some other famous natives of Osijek, for example the two Nobel prize winners for chemistry (Prelog and RuæiËka), Cardinal ©eper (the Prefect of the Vatican Congregation for Doctrine before Cardinal Ratzinger, the current Pope), the biggest Croatian benefactor (Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer), one of the most powerful Hollywood producers (Branko Lustig), the well-known Croatian presenter and television show host Oliver Mlakar, and others. People who were born in Osijek have made it in the

world; they have participated in important events and have made their contribution to every field of human activity. The awareness of their achievements is cherished in Osijek and memories of the great are fostered as part of the city’s legacy. For example, among the city’s official internet pages at www.Osijek.hr you will find one entitled Osijek’s Souvenir Book, where Mrs. Zlata ÆivakoviÊ Keræe, D.Sc. records events of importance for the city and provides reminders of significant fellow citizens for all 365 days of the year. Memories of one-time important industrialists, bankers, mayors, benefactors, artists and professors make the city strong and in a way self-sufficient, just like the rest of Slavonia, a region that rarely imposes itself and even more rarely asks for assistance. For centuries, in Osijek and Slavonia people have honoured the principle of subsidiarity, one of the most important lynchpins in the organization of the European Union. According to this principle, issues that can be resolved without involving a higher-level instance need to be resolved where they emerge. This is the only city in Croatia with a philanthropist club whose members provide support to the welfare of their local community. In that, they follow the model of similar institutions originally set up by well-to-do citizens and founders of schools, orphanages and hospitals. On the club’s pages you can read accounts of Count JankoviÊ’s endowment fund, of Osijek’s first female benefactor, Josipa Glembay, and the Huttler-Kohlhoffer-Monsperger Foundation (www.zadobrobit.hr). This is yet another proof of the city’s ability to rise from the ashes and be born again like a Phoenix after having been reduced to rubble several times. The city’s first mention under the name Eszek can be found in a charter issued by the Croatian Hungarian King Emeric in 1196, although the area was inhabited already in the Stone Age. Excavation works have revealed that the territory of today’s city was inhabited by Celtic tribes in the 4th century B.C., and that ancient Romans subsequently built a large antique city known as Mursa in that place. The significance of the city is corroborated by the fact that the Roman Emperor Hadrian elevated Mursa to the status of a city colony in 124 when he visited Pannonia. This means that Mursa enjoyed urban privileges and entitlements, and had a municipal organization very early on. The first stable bridge across the Drava River was constructed around that time in the locality of today’s Lower Town. Already in the 2nd century A.D. there was a Christian community in the city. In the 5th century, when the Huns plundered Slavonia, the

city of Mursa did not go unscathed. In the 7th century, Slavonia was settled by Slavs, and in the Middle Ages the city became the region’s centre of trade, manufacturing, transport, administration, nobility and culture. The first written testimony of the city’s development can be found in the ruling on the Osijek barge and trade tax in favour of the monks and the Cistercian monastery of Cikador. The document, which was drafted in 1196, is a court decision rendered by the Croatian and Hungarian King Emeric against the noble family KruæiÊ, who had also claimed the right to the Osijek navigation tax. The name Osijek was given to the city by the old Slavs. It derives from the Croatian word for dry land, i.e. for a dry habitat conducive to human habitation. Moreover, we learn from that first document that Osijek had a forum which supports its position as a city where fairs were held. A legal system regulated economic, commercial and tax issues and rights. The charter also mentions the Israelites (Jews) and Bizens (Byzantines), i.e. tradesmen who came from the Orient. Osijek’s inhabitants were Croats and Hungarians. As many as 2,000 people lived in the city in the second half of the 15th century, which meant that Osijek was a big city at the time. Its citizens were mostly craftsmen, tradesmen and officials. There were millers, bakers, butchers, tailors, shoemakers, furriers, goldsmiths, ironsmiths, stonemasons, cauldron makers, carpenters, saddle makers, colliers, hostlers, bargemen, barbers and musicians. Life had looked good before Slavonia was occupied by the Turks, who destroyed Osijek on 15 August 1526. The Grand Vizier Ibrahim Pasha razed Osijek to the ground, but the wise Sultan Suleiman had it rebuilt, having recognized its important strategic position. He gave Kasim Pasha from Pecuj 500 pouches of silver to build a wall around the city, to repair houses and build storages and shops. Osijek gained global fame for CROATIA AIRLINES

a Turkish bridge (called Suleiman’s bridge) which connected the city with Darda. The 248 fathoms long and 2 fathoms wide pontoon bridge was erected during Suleiman’s campaign against the Mohacs. Named after the Sultan, it was considered the 8th wonder of the world. On 29 September 1687, the day the Turks left, all the churches in Osijek rang their bells at 11 o’clock to mark their departure. As of that day on, the city’s oriental character changed and the Central European spirit started returning to Osijek. In 1527, Croatia and Hungary accepted a new king from the Habsburg dynasty, and between that year and 1918, Osijek was part of the Austrian Monarchy. With the arrival of the Austrians, the three disunited city municipalities, the Upper Town, the Lower Town and Tvra, became one on 2 December 1786. This day is still celebrated as the Day of the City. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Osijek became the multi-ethnic city we know today, with Croats, Serbs, Germans and Hungarians as its citizens. (Today, Osijek has 11 Catholic parishes, one Evangelistic parish, two Orthodox parochies, an Evangelistic theological faculty, a Jewish municipality, and Franciscan and Jesuit monasteries for men). For a long time Osijek was the most developed city in Croatia, second only to Zagreb. The break-up of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, the establishment of the Independent State of Croatia and the beginning of World War II left new traces of destruction in the city. The city suffered particularly badly during the aggression at the beginning of the 90s of last century. After the Homeland War ended, the city embarked on a slow but steady recovery process and is now on the way to starting a new stage in life. Today’s Osijek comprises the Old Town known as Tvra, largely built in the 18th century; the Upper Town, the Lower Town and the New Town (with the South I and South II neighbourhoods), Cvjetno Naselje (Flower Neighbourhood), Retfala, and the 90

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industrial part of the city. Osijek boasts the most greenery and the largest green surfaces in Croatia: the city’s 17 parks span a total surface of 394,000 m². The Fortress, or Tvra as the citizens of Osijek call it, has become a true magnet for tourists who are drawn by its unique state of conservation. It was built according to a plan between 1 August 1712 and 1722 under the Austrian authorities who used Dutch lowland fortresses as the model. The well-kept structure seems to have preserved a somewhat more festive mood and the centuries’ old spirit of former times. The Tvra features seven bastions which follow the east-west direction around the city nucleus encircled by the protective fortress. The interior of the Tvra features two important roads: Cardo (today’s FranjevaËka or Franciscan Street) and Decumanus, (Franjo KuhaË Street). In the first half of the 18th century, the appearance of the Tvra was changed. Buildings were erected to accommodate the military, and churches, monasteries and town houses were built in the Baroque style. The main watchtower housed a clock (1709) and street lighting was provided by oil lamps. In 1729, a grammar school was opened in the Tvra; a printing press and a German Theatre followed in 1735; there was a water supply and a sewage system which gave Slavonians and the citizens of Osijek every right to call the Tvra a Metropolis urbs. As time went by, the military significance of Osijek’s Tvra diminished, particularly after Joseph II issued an imperial decree in 1783 pursuant to which the supreme command of the military for Slavonia and Srijem was moved from Osijek to Petrovaradin. In the 18th and 19th centuries the Tvra was a multi-ethnic city inhabited by Croats and settlers from Styria, Carniola, Bavaria, Moravia, Italy, France, Hungary and Bulgaria. Contemporaries were of the opinion that its walls halted the city’s economy and prevented the development of modern transport facilities, which is why the inhabitants of the Tvra filed an application with the Croatian Parliament to allow them to remove the walls. The application was filed in 1868 and it was not granted until 1923. The construction of an electricity power plant and the introduction of an electric tram accelerated the works, and the defensive part of the fortress was pulled to the ground in 1926. Today, Osijek’s Tvra is a grade zero listed building owing to its historical importance and architectural features. Its town houses, museums, churches, romantic streets and beautiful and proud squares certainly deserve a couple of hours of your time, which you should dedicate to visiting the Tvra. There are several good restaurants

and a few interestingly decorated café bars, which promise pleasant breaks to mull over the impressions at your leisure. On the ﬁrst Saturday of every month the Tvra becomes host to an antique fair and to a drove of visitors who join the free of charge guided sightseeing tours starting at 11 o’clock. One would be well advised to consult www.tzosijek.hr and www.putovanjaslavonijom.hr for an updated offer. Besides the Tvra, Osijek boasts the best preserved Viennese Secession neighbourhood in the whole of Croatia, currently known under the name European Avenue. When it was ﬁrst built, it bore the name of the Vice County Prefect Levin Chavrak. The street is a gallery of authentic bourgeois villas designed in the Secession style, featuring carved iron fences, manicured front gardens, opulent carriage entrances and elegant staircases. They were built and inhabited by industrialists and rich bourgeois. In the 19th century Osijek was the strongest economic centre second to none but Zagreb. A silk mill had operated there from the 18th century; an oil factory was founded in 1826 by Michael Ley; Reisner and Fötzmayer have produced matches in their factory since 1856; the proprietor of the tools and machinery factory incepted in 1863 was Melchior Leicht; Samuel Reinitz founded Saponija in 1894; in 1905 a shareholding company was established for a sugar factory, whereas in the 20s of last century, Kaiser and Stark incepted the First Osijek Factory of Confectionery Products. All of those activities were wholeheartedly and professionally supported by the Osijek Chamber of Commerce which was founded on 6 June 1854. It also spearheaded the opening of Osijek’s First Shareholding Savings House for the purpose of funding the local economy. The shareholders were Count Karlo Eltz from Vukovar, Count Petar PejaËeviÊ from Retfala, Count Heinrich Khuen from Nuπtar, as well as the Bishop of Djakovo, J.J. Strossmayer, and the wholesaler from Osijek, Anton Gorjup, together with 140 other citizens of Osijek. Only a few years later, in 1869, the Chamber of Commerce accepted President »ordaπiÊ’s proposal and spearheaded the foundation of the Slavonian Commercial and Credit Bank. The Central Slavonian Savings House was incepted and registered in 1872. An entrepreneurial spirit and a hardworking character have spawned the wonderful city of Osijek on the fertile soil of Slavonia, a city where one has to enjoy and learn from the good example set. The best thing to do is to set aside a whole weekend and savour the rich offerings of the capital of wonderful Slavonia just as one should: in high-style and at great leisure. ■

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■ KULTURA CULTURE

Piše/By Anelka MustapiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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ProËelje crkve sv. Katarine, Zagreb The façade of the St. Catherine’s Church, Zagreb

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Punih je pedeset godina oblikovao, promicao i kao arbitar usmjeravao razvitak novije hrvatske umjetnosti i kulture, obrazovao prve velike hrvatske slikare i kipare, pokrenuo izloæbenu aktivnost. Smatra se najveÊim graditeljem novije hrvatske povijesti. Reorganizirao je πkolstvo, a model njegove realne gimnazije i πkole za obrt s internatom prihvatila je cijela tadaπnja Austro-Ugarska Monarhija. For all of ﬁfty years, he shaped and promoted the development of recent Croatian art and culture and guided it as an arbiter; he educated the ﬁrst great Croatian painters and sculptors; he set the wheels of exhibition activity in motion. Thereby becoming the greatest architect in recent Croatian history he organized the education system and his model of the real gymnasium grammar school and the crafts

Hrvatski povijesni muzej/Croatian Historical Museum

boarding school was adopted all over the Austro Hungarian Monarchy.

zidor Krπnjavi najmarkantnija je liËnost novije hrvatske povijesti. Kad je stekao vaænu politiËku funkciju, predstojnik Odjela za bogoπtovlje i nastavu, u Ëetiri i pol godine sagradio je 84 πkole diljem Hrvatske, dogradio i restaurirao 91 crkvu u duhu historicizma, vodeÊeg stila u drugoj polovici 19. st., meu kojima su zagrebaËka katedrala, spomenik narodu, i kriæevaËka stolna crkva, najljepπa u Monarhiji, Muzej za umjetnost i obrt, te prekrasna palaËa Zemaljske vlade za Bogoslovlje i nastavu. Iako je, meu ostalim, silnu energiju uloæio u odgajanje ukusa opÊinstva, doæivio je tako neukusne, zlonamjerne i brutalne napade, i to zbog neslaganja s njim, njegovim kulturnim programom,

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njegovim kontroverznim politiËkim stavovima ili jednostavno zbog Ëistog jala, premda je svima u njegovu vremenu bilo viπe nego jasno da sve πto radi ima opÊedruπtvenu teæinu. Je li mogao proÊi bolje, drukËije æivjeti…? OËito nije, jer sve ga je vrtoglavo vodilo kroz æivot do mjesta na kojemu ga nitko nije mogao zamijeniti. K rπnjavi je roen 22. travnja 1845. u Naπicama u imuÊnoj obitelji. ©kolovanje je poËeo u franjevaËkom samostanu u Poæegi i, zahvaljujuÊi dobrim fratrima, zavolio taj red za cijeli æivot. Nakon duge i teπke oËeve bolesti i smrti 1854., primljen je u zagrebaËki plemiÊki konvikt i u njemaËku gimnaziju, koju je morao pohaati otpoËetka, jer bio je premlad. Poslije nekoliko godina odlazi majci u Vinkovce, ondje zavrπava njemaËku krajiπku gimnaziju i s nepunih 18 godina postaje suplentom (pomoÊnikom) na osjeËkoj gimnaziji, gdje predaje povijest, njemaËki jezik, fi lozofi ju, stenografiju i krasopis. Za nj je Osijek imao ulogu, πto Êe se poslije pokazati, otvorenih vrata. Kod tamoπnjeg slikara Huge Conrada pl. Hotzendorfa poËeo je uËiti slikanje, a naobrazbu je sa suplentskom plaÊom nastavio na beËkoj Akademiji umjetnosti, s tim πto je u tom gradu pohaao i poloæio triennium na SveuËiliπtu, tako da je 1870. promoviran u doktora filozofije (1901. doktorirao je i pravo). Na SveuËiliπtu je sluπao i anatomiju. Zanimljivo je da je istodobno uËio slikarstvo u Münchenu na Akademiji umjetnosti kod prof. Johanna Leonharda Raaba, zatim u πkoli Wilhema Dietza. U Münchenu je naslikao dvije slike koje je poslije izloæio u BeËu s velikim uspjehom, i 1872. oæenio se bogatom Njemicom Martom Froscli, s Ëijim je bratom Karlom, poslije vrlo priznatim slikarom, i ta-

stovim kapitalom otiπao u Veneciju da bi ondje slikao cijelu zimu. Zatim putuje ponovno u BeË, pa u Rim, Napulj, opet u Rim, sve zbog usavrπavanja. U Rimu se 1874. upoznaje s glasovitim poljskim slikarom Siemirdadzkim, kod kojega je godinu dana slikao i uËio sve ono πto se iz knjiga ne moæe nauËiti, a s njim je prouËavao i arheologiju. Tada su se u Rimu znameniti ljudi lako prepoznavali i nije nimalo Ëudan susret hrvatskoga biskupa Josipa Jurja Strossmayera, koji je u Rimu kupovao slike za svoju buduÊu galeriju, i Krπnjavija. Simpatije su se pojavile s obje strane. Iz jednog pisma kanonika i prvog predsjednika naπe Akademije znanosti i umjetnosti Franje RaËkog doznajemo da je Strossmayer zaljubljen u Krπnjavija. Biskup je kod Krπnjavija u Rimu objedovao, πetao poslije objeda, razmjenjivao misli o umjetnosti i naruËio od njega tri slike: dvije za crkvu u Gorjanima kod –akova (Krπnjavi ih je naslikao u Rimu: RaspeÊe i Madona s djetetom) i jednu Madonu za crkvu sv. Marka u Zagrebu. Tu je Krπnjavi izloæio dvije svoje slike iz Münchena, koje su bile tako hvaljene u BeËu. U Autobiograﬁji iz 1927., pisanoj u treÊem licu, koju je, neπto prije smrti, poslao Vijencu da je objave kad doe vrijeme, piπe da su te slike vanrednim koloritom slikane mrtve prirode, beËki novinari naglaπavaju da su goetheovski zdrave i da bi se Makart od njih mogao uËiti, a rimski stavljaju Krπnjavija uz bok izvanrednoga grËkog slikara Zeuksisa. No slike su ostale neprodane, πto je Strossmayera ponukalo na to da nagovori Krπnjavija da se ostavi slikarstva i prihvati katedre povijesti umjetnosti, Ëim se ona otvori na SveuËiliπtu, πto su Strossmayer i RaËki uvelike podupirali. Uz to, Krπnjavi bi preselio

Hrvatski povijesni muzej/Croatian Historical Museum

ZagrebaĂ&#x2039;ka katedrala The Zagreb Cathedral

Muzej Mimara, Zagreb The Mimara Museum, Zagreb

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Crkva sv. Katarine, Gornji grad, Zagreb St. Catherine’s Church, Upper town, Zagreb

Izloæba Iso Krπnjavi − veliki utemeljitelj/ ministar europskog duha u Hrvatskom povijesnom muzeju otvorena je do 19. svibnja 2013. Exhibition Iso Krπnjavi − The Great Founder/Minister with a European Spirit in the Croatian History Museum, open until 19th May 2013

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biskupovu galeriju iz –akova u Zagreb, postavio je i vodio pet godina. Zbog nedostatka novca, Krπnjavi je imenovan za izvanrednog profesora tek 1878., isprva bez plaÊe, s tim πto je predavao i u nadbiskupskom sjemeniπtu bogoslovima IV. teËaja. Dok je Ëekao imenovanje, viπe od dvije godine, odlazio je da se πto bolje pripremi za buduÊe zvanje. U Münchenu je naslikao i treÊu sliku za Strossmayera, Madonu, zbog koje je ostavio kist, mislio je za sva vremena, jer slika je tehniËki bila u redu, ali nije imala ono πto sliku Ëini slikom − Ëuvstvo. Tako da se moæe reÊi da je kao likovni kritiËar, po nekima vrlo strog, jer nije odstupao od svojih estetskih naËela, prema sebi bio najstroæi. Sebi je presudio. Prvi su ga se odrekli Strossmayer i RaËki kad je uπao u Sabor kao zastupnik Narodne stranke bana Khuen-Héderváryja. Od starËeviÊanca postao je preko noÊi maaron. Nitko od bivπih prijatelja nije ga htio ni pokuπati razumjeti, Ëak ni pozdraviti. A Krπnjavijev je rezon bio vrlo praktiËan. U pismu iz 1888. godine Strossmayer piπe RaËkom: Ne dam apsolutno niπt ni za sve ono πto se na toj blaæenoj nagodbi osnovat daje. Za razliku od Strossmayera, Krπnjavi je skovao poznato geslo: U teπkoj borbi za opstanak naroda kultura je jak i snaæan πtit! I poËeo je realizirati svoj kulturni program obnove tako πto je angaæirao arhitekta

Hermanna Bolléa i od Khuen-Hédervárya nevjerojatnom vjeπtinom uzimao velike svote novca za investicije u kulturi, koje bi inaËe otiπle u Peπtu. Tako je, de facto, iskoristio tuinsku politiku, khuenovπtinu, da bi ostvario nacionalne interese. Manevrom je, moglo bi se reÊi, isposlovao kod Khuen-Hédervárya gradnju atelijera za mlade slikare. VraÊajuÊi se jednom prigodom s gradiliπta srednjih πkola, Krπnjavi je zapazio da je ban dobre volje pa ga je zamolio da mu dopusti gradnju atelijera. Ban je pristao odmah, ali rekao je kroza smijeh: Ali ako doe joπ jedan lav, ubit Êu vas. Kako Krπnjavi nije razumio πto mu ban æeli reÊi, ban mu je ispriËao anegdotu o lovcu koji je, vrativπi se iz Afrike, priËao o lavovima koje je ubio. PriËajuÊi o πestom lavu, prijatelj koji je sluπao te laæi, reËe: »ujeπ, ako sada doe joπ jedan lav, ubit Êu te. Krπnjavi je, piπe u svojoj Autograﬁji, razmislio, nasmijao se i odgovorio banu: Ne, ne, preuzviπeni, ti atelijeri nisu lav, to je tek pudl, πto je i dokazao, dok se nalazio uz Khuena. No, poπto su 1895. godine sveuËiliπtarci pred carom Franjom Josipom I. spalili maarski zastavu, morao je odstupiti a car vratiti odlikovanje kojim ga je drugi put namjeravao odlikovati u Zagrebu. IduÊe godine ponovno je izabran za sveuËiliπnog profesora, osim toga, angaæirao se viπe u Druπtvu umjetnosti, koje je osnovao kao student 1868., a aktivirao 1879. godine. Bez uzrujavanja pretrpio je secesiju slikara koji su iz Druπtva umjetnosti preπli u Hrvatsko druπtvo umjetnosti, i to oni koji su uËili na njegovim kritikama. Pisao je i dalje likovne kritike, progurao joπ pokoju pudlicu, pretrpio tko zna koliko noæeva u lea, πto zbog sebe, πto zbog Bolléa, koji je, kako je pisao Gjuro Szabo, potamanio barok iz naπih crkava. Godine 1006., kad je postao frankovac, dobio je zavrπni udarac od Kerubina ©egviÊa, koji ga je javno nazvao sramotom hrvatskoga naroda i Ëovjekom koji djeluje od æeluca niæe. Krπnjavi je odgovorio, navevπi sve πto je uËinio za hrvatski narod, i pitajuÊi se je li to sve sramota. Obrana mu je stigla tek u nekrolozima, meu kojima Milan MarjanoviÊ piπe da je Krπnjavi uËinio politiËki skok prelazeÊi od Strossmayera Khuenu, ali on je svoju politiËku negativnost bogato kontrabalansirao narodu korisnim, za kulturu naroda upravo epohalnim objektivnim tekovinama. A koliko je bilo onih koji su postali maaroni ni zaπto i na πtetu naroda, a bez ikakve kompenzacije, osim liËnog momentalnog probitka. Krπnjavi je svojim politiËkim oportunizmom narodu stvorio podlogu za njegovu kulturnu buduÊnost. Svoju Autobiograﬁ ju, koju je Vijenac objavio dva-tri mjeseca poslije Krπnjavijeve smrti (3.veljaËe 1927.), Krπnjavi

zavrπava u treÊem licu: Krπnjavi nije traæio drugo doli opÊe dobro svoga naroda, a kroz to dobri napredak ËovjeËanstava. To je bila njegov ambicija te jedini njegov cilj. n

zidor Krπnjavi is the most imposing personality in recent Croatian history. During his four and a half year term in the important political ofﬁce as the head of the Department for Theology and Education he opened 84 schools all over Croatia; he remodelled and restored 91 churches in the spirit of the historicism, which was the leading style in the second half of the 19th century, including the Zagreb Cathedral, the monument to the people, and the Kriæevci Cathedral, the most beautiful one in the Monarchy, the Museum of Arts and Crafts, and the magniﬁcent Government’s Palace for Theology and Education. He invested a huge amount of energy into developing good taste among people, yet he lived to experience tasteless, brutal and malevolent attacks by those who did not agree with him or his cultural programmes, or with his controversial political views, and those who simply did it out of pure spite, although all his contemporaries more than appreciated the fact that everything he had done had a lot of social weight. Could he have fared better, lived differently…? Obviously not, because his life was a whirlwind of events which brought him to the position in which he was irreplaceable. Krπnjavi was born on 22 April 1845 in Naπice to a well-to-do family. He started his education in the Franciscan monastery in Poæega where the good friars endeared the order to him for life. After his father’s long and fatal illness, which ended in his death in 1854, he was admitted to Zagreb’s religious school for noble boys and the German grammar school where he had to start from the beginning because he was too young. After a few years, he went to his mother in Vinkovci, where he graduated from the German Krajina grammar school and then became an assistant at the Osijek grammar school where he taught history, German, philosophy, shorthand and calligraphy before he turned 18. It would later become clear that the time spent in Osijek had opened doors for him. He took up painting with the local painter Hug Conrad von Hotzendorf, whereas his salary as an assistant allowed him to continue his education at the Vienna Academy of Fine Arts. In the same city, he attended and obtained a triennium degree from the university, so that in 1870 he was promoted to a doctor of philosophy (in 1901 he also obtained a doctoral degree

Dvorišna vrata Hrvatskog instituta za povijest, OpatiËka 10, Zagreb Door in fence of Croatian Institute of History, OpatiËka 10, Zagreb

Muzej za umjetnost i obrt i Škola primijenjene umjetnosti i dizajna, Zagreb Museum for Arts and Crafts and School of Applied Arts and Design, Zagreb

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in law). His interests at the university also included anatomy. Interestingly enough, at the same time he was studying painting at the Fine Arts Academy in Munich with professor Johann Leonhard Raab, and then in the school of Wilhem Dieta. In Munich, he painted two paintings which he then quite successfully exhibited in Berlin. In 1872 he married a rich German lady, Marta Froscli. With her brother Karl, who later became a prominent painter, and his father-in-law’s capital, he went to Venice and spent an entire winter painting. He then travelled back to Vienna and on to Rome, Napoli, and then back to Rome, all to further his education. In 1874 he met the famous Polish painter Siemirdadzki in Rome, and spent a year painting under him and studying from him everything one cannot learn from books. He also studied archaeology with him. At that time it did not take much for prominent people to recognize each other; it is therefore not surprising that one such encounter brought together the Croatian bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer, who was in Rome buying paintings for his future gallery, and Krπnjavi. Their mutual appreciation of one another was quite evident. From one of the letters written by the cannon and the ﬁrst president of our Academy of Sciences and Arts, Franjo RaËki, we learn that Strossmayer is in love with Krπnjavi. The bishop dined at Krπnjavi’s place in Rome; after lunch they went for walks, during which they exchanged views on art, and the former commissioned two paintings from the latter: two for the church in Gorjani near –akovo (Krπnjavi painted them in Rome: The Cruciﬁxion and Madonna with the Child) and a Madonna for the Church of St. Mark in Zagreb. This is also where Krπnjavi exhibited two of his paintings from Munich which had been highly praised in Vienna. In his autobiography, written in the third person singular in 1927, which he sent to the Vijenac magazine for publication when the time comes shortly before his death, he wrote that those paintings are exceptionally colourful still lifes. Viennese journalists pointed out that they display Goethe-like health and that Makart could learn from them, while Roman journalists compared Krπnjavi with the superb Greek painter Zeuksis. Be it as it may, the paintings remained unsold, which prompted Strossmayer to talk Krπnjavi into abandoning painting and instead taking over leadership of the Department of the History of Art as soon as it was opened at the university, which both Strossmayer and RaËki wholeheartedly supported. In addition, Krπnjavi was to move the bishop’s gallery 98

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from –akovo to Zagreb and manage it for five years. Due to a shortage of funds, Krπnjavi was appointed as a part-time professor only in 1878, at first without pay, but at the same time he also taught students of the fourth course in theology at the diocesan seminary. While he was waiting for more than two years for a full-time appointment to materialize, he went away to prepare for his future profession as best as he could. In Munich, he painted the third painting for Strossmayer, the Madonna. That was the painting that made him throw away his paintbrush, once and for all. He thought the painting was technically correct but that it lacked that one thing which makes a painting a painting − feeling. Some said that he was a harsh art critic because he never gave up on his aesthetic principles, but it seems that he was the harshest on himself. He was his own judge and pronounced his own final sentence. But that was nothing compared to the way others judged him; one had to have the strength to bear that. The first ones to renounce him were Strossmayer and RaËki, when he became a Parliament member on behalf of the People’s Party of Ban Khuen Hedervary. From a StarÊeviÊ supporter, he became a Magyaron overnight. None of his former friends wanted to even say hello, let alone attempt to understand him. Yet, Krπnjavi’s reasoning was very pragmatic. In his letter written to RaËki in 1888, Strossmayer wrote: And I do not care at all about anything that may be founded on that sacred agreement. Unlike Strossmayer, Krπnjavi forged the well-known motto: In a grave struggle for the survival of a people, culture is a strong and powerful armour!, and he embarked on his programme of cultural revival by hiring architect Hermann Bolle and using an incredible skill to take huge amounts of money from Khuen-Hedervary, which would have otherwise ended up in Pest and invested it into culture. That is how he de facto used the foreigner’s politics, Khuen-Hedervary’s Magyarisation, to promote national interests. Through a clever manoeuvre, as it were, he talked KhuenHedervary into building ateliers for young painters. One time, as he was coming back from a visit to the building sites of the secondary schools, he noticed that the Ban was in a good mood. He took the opportunity and asked his permission to build the ateliers. The Ban immediately agreed but then he said through laughter, If another lion comes, I will kill you both. Krπnjavi failed to comprehend what the Ban was saying, so the Ban told him an anecdote about a hunter who, on his

return from Africa, talked about the lions he had killed. As he was telling the crowd about the sixth lion, a friend who was listening to all those lies said, Listen, if another lion comes, I will kill you. Krπnjavi described the event in his autobiography. According to him, he listened to the story, reflected on it, smiled and then replied, Your Excellency, the ateliers are not a lion, they are merely a poodle, which he then went on to prove while working alongside Khuen. However, in 1895, when university students burned a Hungarian flag in front of Emperor Franz Joseph I, he had to resign and the emperor had to return the second decoration he was about to bestow upon him in Zagreb. The following year, he was again elected as a university professor. Besides, he was more heavily engaged in the Arts Society that he founded as a student in 1868 and put in operation in 1879. He did not get too upset when a number of artists, the same ones that had drawn lessons from his critical reviews, seceded from his society and joined the Croatian Arts Society. He continued writing art reviews, he managed to push through another poodle or fi ve, he suffered many more backstabbing attempts, some for his own sake and others for the sake of Bolle, who, according to Gjuro Szabo, tarnished the baroque in our churches. In 1006, when he became a member of Josip Frank’s political movement, Kerubin ©egviÊ dealt him a final blow by calling him an embarrassment to the Croatian people and a man who acted below the belt. Krπnjavi responded by enumerating all those things he had done for the Croatian people and wondering whether all of those were embarrassing. Words in his defence were written only in his necrologies, including the one by Milan MarjanoviÊ, who wrote that Krπnjavi made a political leap by leaving Strossmayer and joining Khuen, but he more than generously counterbalanced his political negativity by a legacy of useful, and even epochal projects for the people. And what about the great number of those who turned Magyarons, for nothing at all and at the detriment of the people, without any compensation, save for their personal temporary gain. Through his political opportunism, Krπnjavi created a foundation for the cultural future of his people. Vijenac published Krπnjavi’s autobiography some two to three months after his death (3 February 1927). Krπnjavi ended it in the third person singular by stating, Krπnjavi asked for nothing more but the overall wellbeing of his own people, and through that, the good progress of mankind. That was his ambition, his only goal. n

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■ TRADICIJA TRADITION

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Glavni grad Hrvatske iz godine u godinu postaje sve privlaËnije mjesto za sve koji æele osjetiti boæiÊno raspoloæenje. Srediπte grada miriπe na kuhano vino, vruÊe kobasice i fritule, vaniliju, cimet i klinËiÊe… DomaÊi obrtnici nude boæiÊne ukrase, sitne darove od keramike, drveta, stakla i metala, biæuteriju, igraËke, ruËne radove, licitarske bajke, fantazije u vosku, jaslice… A gradske vedute od medenjaka u staklenoj kugli punoj snijega, zaπtitni su znak zagrebaËkog adventa. The capital of Croatia is becoming increasingly attractive for those who wish to enjoy some festive Christmas cheer. The city centre smells of mulled wine, hot sausages and fritters, vanilla, cinnamon and cloves... Local craftsmen sell their wares, including Christmas ornaments and gifts made of ceramics, wood, glass and metal, as well as costume jewellery, toys, hand-made textiles and embroidery, gingerbread fairy tales, wax fantasies, nativity scenes in all shapes and forms… Cityscapes made of gingerbread in glass snow globes are the trademark of Advent in Zagreb.

spod zidina starog Zagreba, na prostoru bivπeg sajmiπta Harmice, danaπnjeg Trga bana JelaËiÊa, nalazio se izvor vode Manduπevac. Stanovnici hrvatske metropole koristili su se njime stoljeÊima, a prema popularnoj legendi, Zagreb je po njemu dobio ime, zbog Ëega je i na grbu ZagrebaËke æupanije. Potkraj 19. stoljeÊa glavni je zagrebaËki trg rekonstruiran i poploËen, a Manduπevac zatrpan. Diskretni simbol grada nestao je pod betonom, a opet je otkriven prije Ëetvrt stoljeÊa prilikom nove obnove trga. Iako nije bio u planu, izvor je na molbe graana saËuvan i pretvoren u lijepu, okruglu fontanu, smjeπtenu na rubu trga u kamenom bazenu, oko koje se

danas okupljaju domaÊi i turisti, da predahnu uz taj simbol æivota i novoga raanja. Stoga u Zagrebu vjerojatno nema ljepπega ni znakovitijeg mjesta za golemi adventski vijenac, koji bogatim pletom zimzelenoga granja svakog prosinca obgrljuje fontanu Manduπevac. Uz nazoËnost mnoπtva graana i ovoga 2. prosinca na veËer na njemu je sveËano zapaljena prva svijeÊa, kao simboliËna najava Ëetiri nedjelje iπËekivanja, nade, budnosti i priprema za BoæiÊ. Vijenac kao simbol vjeËnosti jer nema poËetka ni kraja, svijeÊe kao Ëetiri razdjelnice u ljudskoj povijesti − stvaranje, utjelovljenje, otkupljenje i svrπetak, plamen svijeÊa kao dolazeÊe svjetlo

Piše/By Davorka Vukov ColiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Arhiva/Archive TZGZ

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Paviljon na Zrinjevcu Zrinjevac Pavilion

Bor na Trgu bana JelaËiÊa Christmas Tree on the Ban JelaËiÊ Square

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Isusa... To je ona simbolika koje se tih dana prisjeÊamo i na ovakvim javnim mjestima. Svugdje, pa i u Zagrebu. Hrvatski narodni obiËaji u vezi s doπaπÊem puni su stare simbolike i znakovlja boæiÊnog iπËekivanja. Na Nikolinje djecu se darivalo voÊem i plaπilo krampusovim πibama, na Dan sv. Lucije sijala se pπenica kao simbol obnove æivota i plodnosti, ranim jutrima odlazilo se na mise zornice. Molilo se i postilo, ali i druæilo, zabavljalo i veselilo, prizivalo obilje i nadu u bolju buduÊnost. Nekad se, doduπe, kao i drugdje, viπe pjevalo i molilo, danas se viπe zabavlja i kupuje, ali, Boæe moj, tako se danas u svijetu proæivljava advent. Zbog toga je u vrijeme prve adventske nedjelje, ili nedjelje doπaπÊa, i Zagreb, poput drugih europskih metropola, potpuno uronjen u predboæiÊno raspoloæenje, okiÊen tisuÊama svjeÊica i zagrebaËkih crvenih licitarskih srca. Tu je veÊ golemi bor na glavnome gradskom trgu, najveÊi u gradu. Jedno od najsveËanijih kiÊenja boæiÊnog drvca za pamÊenje svakako je ono prije desetak godina, kad je golemo stablo stiglo u Zagreb kao dar tadaπnje zemaljske poglavarice ©tajerske Waltraud Klasnic, u suradnji s Veleposlanstvom RH u BeËu. Bor je bio tako visok i πirok da je jedva dopremljen. Tom je prilikom zagrebaËki gradonaËelnik ugostio cijelu delegaciju te austrijske pokrajine na Ëelu s tadaπnjim gradonaËelnikom Graza, a dio je to lijepe tradicije darivanja gradova boæiÊnim drvcima u znaku prijateljstva i suradnje, pa zagrebaËki bor ove godine krasi jedan od berlinskih trgova. Vrijeme je to dobra raspoloæenja, kad se lakπe zaboravlja svakodnevica, kupuje viπe od moguÊnosti, milosrdno prisjeÊa siromaπnih, zaboravljenih i bolesnih, daruje i priziva toplina obiteljskog doma. Srediπte grada miriπe na kuhano vino, vruÊe kobasice i fritule, vaniliju, cimet i klinËiÊe, s gradskih pozornica na otvorenome svaki se Ëas oglaπavaju folklorni ansambli i zabavljaËi za najmlae i one starije, a uliËni glazbenici ponavljaju meunarodnu boæiÊnu pjesmu Tiha noÊ i stare hrvatske boæiÊne napjeve. Na BoæiÊnom sajmu kroz BogoviÊevu, Cvjetni trg i okolne uliËice, na popularnom Britancu, KvatriÊu, JelaËiÊ placu i Trgu dr. Franje Tumana, domaÊi obrtnici nude boæiÊne ukrase, sitne darove od keramike, drveta, stakla i metala, kobasice iz Slavonije, torte iz Dalmacije, sitne boæiÊne kolaËe, medovinu, napitke od aronije i bazge, biæuteriju, igraËke, ruËne radove, zaËine i mirise, licitarske bajke, fantazije u vosku, jaslice, πarene lizalice i crvene uπeÊerene jabuke. To je vrijeme prigodnih izloæbi u gradskim muzejima i predstavã u gradskim kazaliπtima, dogaanjã u koncertnoj

dvorani Vatroslava Lisinskog i zabavnog programa u zagrebaËkim dvoranama. Vrijeme je to boæiÊnih klasika i retro-valcera na Zrinjevcu uza πtrukle, domaÊe juhice i krpice sa zeljem, te Adventske TkalËijane u popularnoj TkalËi ∑ smotre uliËnih sviraËa i pjevaËa sa spletom starogradskih pjesama, evergrina i πansona. Tu su i zimske radosti na prigodnom klizaliπtu na rubu Trga bana JelaËiÊa, crkveni koncerti duhovne glazbe i zvonjava Veseloga boæiÊnog tramvaja, u kojemu Djed i Baka Mraz, vile i vilenjaci zabavljaju maliπane uz pjesmu, priËe, nagradne igre, balone i slatkiπe dok Ilicom prolaze do Ulice Republike Austrije, skreÊu u JukiÊevu i MihanoviÊevu, pa preko Zrinjevca i Praπke natrag na trg. Mnogo, πareno i bogato, a TuristiËka zajednica grada Zagreba odluËila je prije dvije godine iz tog πarenila stvoriti prepoznatljiv koncept, Advent u Zagrebu uobliËiti u brand metropole i turistiËku i kulturnu ponudu upotpuniti u doæivljaj za sjeÊanje. Jer, zaπto uz advent u BeËu, Budimpeπti ili Londonu ne bismo s jednako znatiæelje doËekali onaj u Zagrebu, u gradu koji postaje sve zanimljivija toËka u itineraru europskih i prekomorskih posjetitelja? Zaπtitni znak zagrebaËkog adventa − gradske vedute od medenjaka u staklenoj kugli punoj snijega − tako poziva posjetitelje da sebi daruju Advent u Zagrebu, a vizualna se poruka nalazi na svakom koraku, Ëak na papirnatim Ëaπama za kuhano vino i kavu. Da je Hrvatska i u πkolskim klupama uπla na europsku adventsku kartu Europe, proπle je godine dokazala udruga European Association of Hotel and Tourism Schools (AEHT) odabravπi Hotelijersko-turistiËku πkolu u Zagrebu kao domaÊina jubilarnoga 20. BoæiÊa u Europi, meunarodne manifestacije dvadeset πkola s podruËja ugostiteljstva i turizma iz petnaest europskih zemalja, a ideja je susreta da svaka delegacija predstavi tradicionalne boæiÊne obiËaje, proizvode, hranu, turizam i kulturu svoje zemlje. PriËa o tipiËnoj zagrebaËkoj predboæiÊnoj atmosferi osvojila je i jedan meunarodni ocjenjivaËki sud. Prije dvije godine na 46. meunarodnom festivalu turistiËkog filma u gradu Lecce (talijanska pokrajina Apulia) promidæbeni film Advent u Zagrebu TuristiËke zajednice Grada Zagreba, nagraen je prvom nagradom u kategoriji turistiËkog spota u konkurenciji od 300 filmova iz 60 zemalja sa svih kontinenata. No jedno od dogaanja koje osobito grije posjetitelje hrvatske metropole u hladnim blagdanskim danima zacijelo su Æive jaslice ispred zagrebaËke katedrale. Osmislio ih je hrvatski ogranak Zajednice Cenacolo, organizacije koju je 1983. godine osnovala talijanska Ëasna sestra Elvira Petrozzi za pomoÊ ovisnicima i

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Sveti Nikola ispred spomenika banu JelaËiÊu Santa Claus in front of Ban JelaËiÊ Monument

Zrinjevac okiÊen žaruljicama Christmas lights, Zrinjevac

izgubljenima s ruba æivota. Djevojke i mladiÊi, koji su snagom volje i vjere uspjeli pronaÊi pravi put, tim uprizorenjima Isusova doπaπÊa potvruju i vlastito ponovno roenje. Tu su πtalica i svratiπte, Sveta obitelj, mudraci s Istoka, graani Betlehema i pastiri, domaÊe æivotinje, ovËice i magarËiÊ, slamica i ognjiπte, sve u kretanju, sve u naravnoj veliËini. A prizor Svete obitelji u πtalici, na slamici, vjeËni je motiv domaÊih umjetnika poput scenografkinje i kostimografkinje Latice IvaniπeviÊ koja ih je naËinila u obliku tapiserije, slike, ﬁgure od keramike i ratana, koristeÊi se Ëak starim narodnim igraËkama, ali i mnogobrojnih umjetnika amatera, koji svojom imaginacijom kreiraju vlastiti duhovni Betlehem, utjelovljujuÊi ga u neobiËnim oblicima i materijalima. Stoga nije sluËajno nastala Udruga prijatelja hrvatskih boæiÊnih jaslica, sa stalnom adresom pri Etnografskome muzeju u Zagrebu. U izvedbi Ëlanova Udruge nastale su mnoge kreacije od kore drveta, voska i komuπine, πkoljki, spuæve, πeÊera i tijesta; Podravske jaslice od naplavina granja iz Drave, jaslice u obliku amfore iz terakote, zagrebaËki Betlehem u drvu i peruπini, sa πestinskim narodnim noπnjama... U izboru zagrebaËkoga Etnografskog muzeja, MarijabistriËke jaslice srca, naËinjene od 907 licitarskih srca, majstorice Gordane Mahmet Habazin, predstavljale su prije tri godine Hrvatsku na 34. smotri boæiÊnih jaslica u Rimu, ukraπavajuÊi te godine i plakat manifestacije. Ali jaslice se svakog doπaπÊa izlaæu i u zagrebaËkim izlozima, na glavnom trgu, na radost prolaznika i kao poseban zaËin predboæiÊnom i boæiÊnom ugoaju. A ono πto je poËelo kao intimna predboæiÊna radost obitelji Nade i Zlatka Salaja, posljednjih je godina preraslo u adventsku atrakciju zbog koje organiziranim prijevozom iz Zagreba vrijedi vlakom potegnuti do IvaniÊ Grada, pa zatim autobusom do njihova imanja u mjestaπcu Grabovnica nedaleko od »azme. Salaji su svjetlosnim nakitom poËeli ukraπavati kuÊu i okuÊnicu, drveÊe, stazice i grmlje, svake godine sve viπe i πire, dok sve nije izraslo u jedinstvenu boæiÊnu bajku, sa stotinama tisuÊa æaruljica. Adventski spektakl svjetla osobito je privlaËan djeci. No kad na Badnjak utiπa predboæiÊna guæva, a ZagrepËani se okupe uz bor, jaslice i posnu veËeru, u zagrebaËkoj katedrali poËinje u ponoÊ slavlje duha. To su oni trenuci o kojima govori advent kad se na vijencu pali prva svijeÊa. n

eneath the walls of old Zagreb, on the square formerly known as Harmica, today’s Ban JelaËiÊ Square, there was a spring of water called Manduπevac.

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Not only did the inhabitants of the Croatian capital use it for centuries, but also according to popular legend, Zagreb owes its name to it, which is why it made it onto the coat of arms of Zagreb County. However, when Zagreb’s main square was reconstructed at the end of the 19th century, the unassuming symbol of Zagreb was buried under the newly laid concrete tiles and remained hidden until a quarter of a century ago, when the square was renovated and Manduπevac was rediscovered. Although preserving it was not part of the original plan, at the request of the citizens, it was turned into a beautiful, round fountain and located at the end of the square in a stone pool. Today it is a gathering place for locals and tourists; a place to take a break, right next to the symbol of life and rebirth. Hence, there is probably not a more beautiful or evocative place in Zagreb for the huge Advent wreath made of richly knitted evergreen branches that embrace Manduπevac Fountain every December. On the night of 2 December of this year the ﬁrst candle on the wreath was ceremonially lit in the presence of many citizens, who again attested to a symbolic announcement of four weeks of anticipation, hope, vigilance and preparation for Christmas. The wreath is a symbol of eternity because it does not have a beginning or an end, and the candles are like the four watersheds of human history - creation, incarnation, redemption and the end, whereas the candle flames represent the coming of Jesus... This is the kind of symbolism that we remember these days and at such public places; everywhere, including Zagreb. The Croatian folk traditions associated with Advent are full of signs and old symbolism associated with the anticipation of Christmas. In the past, children were given fruit as gifts on St. Nicholas day and threatened that Krampus would swat them with his birch branches if they were not good; on St. Lucia day wheat was sown as a symbol of the renewal of life and fertility; in the early morning Lauds were attended. People prayed and fasted, but they also got together to celebrate and rejoice, evoking the abundance and hope for a better future. Back in the day, there was more singing and praying everywhere. These days, Advent is more about entertainment and shopping. But, my God, that just happens to be the way the world celebrates Advent today. Therefore, when the ﬁrst Sunday of Advent arrives, Zagreb joins other European capitals and becomes completely immersed in the Christmas spirit, decorated with thousands of candles and Zagreb’s red licitar hearts. A

huge Christmas tree, the biggest in town, is set up on the main city square. One of the most festive and memorable Christmas tree decoration parties was certainly the one that took place ten years ago. A huge tree arrived in Zagreb as a gift from the then governor of Styria, Ms. Waltraud Klasnic, in cooperation with the Croatian Embassy in Vienna. Transporting a tree so tall and so wide was quite a tall order, but arrive it did, together with an entire delegation of this Austrian province led by the mayor of Graz. Their host was the mayor of Zagreb. The event was part of the beautiful tradition of cities giving each other Christmas trees as a sign of friendship and cooperation. This year Zagreb’s tree adorns one of squares in Berlin. The build-up to Christmas is a time of great cheer, when it is easy to forget the reality of everyday life; you tend to buy more than you should, you graciously remember the poor, forgotten and sick, you give lavishly and evoke the warmth of a family home. The city centre smells of mulled wine, hot sausages and fritters, vanilla, cinnamon and cloves; folk ensembles and entertainers for all ages, from the youngest to the oldest, appear regularly on the city’s outdoor stages, while street musicians keep on playing the international Christmas hymn Silent Night as well as the old Croatian Christmas carols. At the Christmas Fair which runs along BogoviÊeva Street, the Flower Square and the surrounding streets, as well as the ones at the popular British Square, KvatriÊ, JelaËiÊ Square and Dr. Franjo Tuman Square, local craftsmen offer Christmas ornaments, small gifts made of ceramic, wood, glass and metal, sausages from Slavonia, Rab cake from Dalmatia, tiny Christmas desserts, honey ﬂavoured liquor, drinks made of chokeberry and elderberry, costume jewellery, toys, handicrafts, spices and scents, gingerbread fairy tales, wax fantasies, nativity scenes, colourful lollipops and red candied apples. This is the time for special exhibitions in the city’s museums and performances in the city’s theatres, for events in Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall and entertainment programming in other city halls. It is the time for Christmas classics and retro-waltzing on Zrinjevac, along with πtrukli (cheese pastry), homemade soup and pasta with cabbage, as well as TkalËijana Advent in the popular TkalËiÊeva Street − a festival of street musicians and singers with a repertoire of old town songs, evergreens and chansons. The joys of winter frolicking await on a seasonal ice skating rink at the edge of Ban JelaËiÊ Square, as well as at church concerts of spiritual music, and with the bells CROATIA AIRLINES

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Jaslice na Kaptolu Nativity scene, Kaptol

Sveti Nikola s djecom Santa Claus with children

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of the Jolly Christmas Tram in which Santa and Mrs. Claus, fairies and elves entertain kids with songs, stories, contests, balloons and sweets while driving along Ilica to the Street of the Republic of Austria, then turning on to JukiÊeva and MihanoviÊeva, along Zrinjevac and Praπka back to the main square. With no lack of all things plentiful, colourful and sundry, two years ago the Zagreb Tourist Board turned that patchwork into a distinctive concept. Advent in Zagreb would be formed into a brand of the metropolis, and it would become part of Zagreb’s tourist and cultural offer as an experience to remember. Along with Advent in Vienna, Budapest and London, why wouldn’t Advent be welcomed with equal interest in Zagreb, in the city that is becoming increasingly conspicuous on the itineraries of European and overseas visitors? The trademark of Zagreb’s Advent − cityscapes made of gingerbread in glass snow globes − invites visitors to treat themselves to the gift of Advent in Zagreb. The event’s visual messages are omnipresent: they can be found even on the paper cups for mulled wine and coffee. Croatia has definitely found a place on the Advent map of Europe. That was even proven in classrooms last year when the European Association of Hotel and Tourism Schools (AEHT) chose the Hotel and Tourism School in Zagreb as the host of the 20th anniversary of Christmas in Europe, an international event involving twenty schools in the field of the catering and tourism industry from fi fteen European countries. The idea of the meeting is that each delegation presents the traditional Christmas customs, products, food, tourism and culture of their country. The story of a typical pre-Christmas atmosphere in Zagreb captivated an international panel of judges. Two years ago, at the 46th International Tourism Film Festival in Lecce (Italy’s Puglia region), the promotional film Advent in Zagreb by the Zagreb Tourist Board was awarded first prize in the category of tourism spots in competition with 300 films from 60 countries from all the continents. One of the events that especially warms the hearts of visitors to the Croatian capital during the cold holiday days is surely the live nativity scene in front of the Zagreb Cathedral. It was conceived by the Croatian branch of the Cenacolo Community, an organization which was founded in 1983 by the Italian nun Elvira Petrozzi in order to help addicts and bring the lost back from the edge of life. For young men and women who managed to find the right path with the power of will and faith this staging of Jesus’ arrival attests to their own rebirth.

There are the stable and inn, the Holy Family, wise men from the East, the citizens of Bethlehem and shepherds, farm animals, sheep and a pony, straw and a fireplace, and all of this in motion, all life size. The scene of the Holy Family in the manger, on straw, is the everlasting theme of local artists such as set and costume designer Latica IvaniπeviÊ, who has turned those motifs into tapestries, paintings, figures made of ceramic and rattan, even using old folk toys, as well as the many amateur artists who have used their imagination to create their own spiritual Bethlehem, embodying it in unusual shapes and materials. Therefore, it was no accident that the Association of Friends of the Croatian Manger was established, with its permanent address at the Ethnographic Museum in Zagreb. The members of the Association have created many objects from tree bark, wax and husks, shells, sponges, sugar and dough; Podravka’s manger is made of driftwood from the Drava River, nativity scenes in the form of terracotta amphorae, Zagreb’s Bethlehem is made out of wood and corn leaf sheath, and with ©estine national costumes... Three years ago the Ethnographic Museum in Zagreb selected the nativity scene of hearts from Marija Bistrica made out of 907 gingerbread hearts by Master Gordana Mahmet Habazin to represent Croatia at the 34th festival of Christmas nativity scenes in Rome. That same year the Croatian nativity scene was depicted on the poster for the event. Moreover, every year Advent nativity scenes are exhibited in Zagreb’s storefronts and on the main square, to the delight of passers-by and as a special spice to the pre-Christmas and Christmas atmosphere. What began as intimate pre-Christmas joy for the family of Nada and Zlatko Salaj, in recent years has grown into an Advent attraction which is well-worth a journey by train from Zagreb to IvaniÊ Grad, and then by a shuttle bus to their farm in the village of Grabovnica near »azma. The Salaj family began to use lights to decorate their house and garden, trees, shrubs and paths, every year more and more, until everything grew into a unique Christmas tale, with hundreds of thousands of lights. The Advent spectacle of lights is particularly appealing to children. However, when the pre-Christmas crowds are silenced on Christmas Eve, and the people of Zagreb gather around their Christmas trees, nativity scenes and fish dinners, at midnight the Zagreb Cathedral begins the celebration of the spirit. These are the moments evoked by the lighting of the first Advent candle on the wreath. n

Discover Dubrovnik with this unique offer ﬂights included!

Dubrovnik, the „Pearl of the Adriatic“, and its mild Mediterranean climate offers great off season options for both relaxing and active holidays. +

Valamar Lacroma Dubrovnik Hotel**** situated in the green picturesque landscape of the Babin kuk peninsula offers premium accommodation only 15 minutes away from the enchanting Old town. Enjoy our Mediterranean cuisine, spa facilities and Croatian hospitality as well as the unique cultural and historical experience of this UNESCO world heritage site.

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■ IZLOŽBE EXHIBITIONS

Piše/By Anelka MustapiÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Arhiva/Archive MUO

U zagrebaËkome Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt u blagdansko vrijeme posjetitelji mogu uæivati u izloæbi Advent, svojevrsnom hommageu BoæiÊu, πto nadahnuto doËarava ugoaj boæiÊnih blagdana u 19. i 20. stoljeÊu. During the holiday season, visitors to Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts are in for a treat: Advent at the Museum of Arts and Crafts, a homage of sorts to Christmas, and an exhibition that showcases the atmosphere of Christmas festivities in the 19th and 20th centuries. imet i vanilija, prateÊi mirisi boæiÊnih blagdana, pojaËani uspomenama iz djetinjstva, ispunjavaju atmosferu prizemlja zagrebaËkog Muzeja za umjetnost i obrt, gdje je u tri tematski povezane prostorije i jednoj zanimljivog radnog naslova IstoËni blok postavljena izloæba Advent u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt autorice Arijane KoprËine, dizajnera Deana FraniÊa i akademskog slikara Saπe ©ekoranje, svestranog umjetnika koji je kadar u svojoj cvjetnoj galeriji boæanskom cvijeÊu dodati joπ jednu dimenziju ljepote. VeÊ je godinama poznat kao nevjerojatno nadahnuti kreator boæiÊnih aranæmana, a ovaj njegov postav u Muzeju za umjetnost i obrt mogao bi se shvatiti i doæivjeti kao hommage BoæiÊu kakav vjerojatno viπe nikad neÊemo vidjeti, barem ne na jednome mjestu i tako raskoπno prezentiran, i to sa starim nakitom koji se nalazi u fundusu pojedinih hrvatskih muzeja. Svrha je izloæbe, moglo bi se reÊi, honoris causa, tj. u poËast najpopularnijega krπÊanskog blagdana, kojim se, kako nam je to rekla Vesna LediÊ, pomoÊnica ravnatelja

Muzeja, predoËava blagdanska atmosfera u Hrvatskoj od sredine 19. st. do polovice 20. st. i da kao muzej s europskom aﬁrmacijom odgovorimo kvalitetom. Iznimka je tzv. IstoËni blok, s vlakiÊem iz SSSR-a u punom pogonu, te boæiÊnim drvcem bogato ukraπenim prigodnim ukrasima koji su se proizvodili za to golemo træiπte. Tu su, meu ostalim socijalistiËkim novogodiπnjim nakitom, kao što su Snjegoruška (Snježna žena) i Tatica Mraz, koji donosi darove, izloæena i dva staklena, raritetna astronautiÊa, napravljena u vremenu kad je Jurij Gagarin bio ne samo sovjetska nacionalna zvijezda, nego prvi planetarno popularni astronaut. Muzeoloπki okvir izloæbe obuhvaÊa sve segmente obiljeæavanja blagdana. Tu su Ëestitke, prava mala remek-djela, neovisno o tome jesu li ruËno raene ili tiskane po slikarskom predloπku, na temelju kojih je autorica KoprËina radila svojevrsnu rekonstrukciju obiljeæavanja BoæiÊa, u gradu i na selu. Tu su boæiÊni ukrasi i raznovrstan nakit, predmeti od vune, slame, stakla… Na njih se nadovezuju

svijeÊnjaci i svi drugi poznati simboli poput igraËaka koje su djeca dobivala. − ObiËaj kiÊenja boæiÊnog drvca znatno je stariji od svoje bidermajerske povijesti, potjeËe iz srednje NjemaËke, gdje je nastao u cehovskim i obrtniËkim slojevima, a poËeo se πiriti u 16. stoljeÊu. Tek je u 17. stoljeÊu zabiljeæen kao kuÊni ritual. Taj danas sveopÊe prihvaÊen boæiÊni obiËaj pojavio se relativno kasno u Habsburπkoj Monarhiji, jer tek u poËetku 19. st. boæiÊno drvce prvi je put zabiljeæeno u BeËu. Prema nekim podacima ukraπavanje boæiÊnog drvca donijela je iz Berlina barunica Fanny von Arnstein, okitivπi boæiÊno drvce u svom beËkom salonu 1812., izazvavπi tako veliko zanimanje beËke aristokracije. Drugi, pak, kaæu da je prvo okiÊeno drvce u BeËu zabiljeæeno godinu dana poslije, 1813., a prvo drvce na austrijskom dvoru okitila je princeza Henrietta von Nassau-Weilburg 1916. − rekla nam je autorica KoprËina. Istaknula je da su veÊ u drugoj polovini 19. st. boæiÊna drvca bila ekoloπka, od obojenoga perja ili slame, sliËila su Pinus sylestrisima. Rana boæiÊna CROATIA AIRLINES

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drvca bila su visoka najviπe jedan metar. Stoga su i ukrasi bili vrlo mali, tek nekoliko centimetara, raeni isprva od jestivih plodova voÊa, a onda sve maπtovitije, ËuvajuÊi prirodu, ali imitirajuÊi je. Poticaj iz BeËa stigao je s malim zakaπnjenjem i u Hrvatsku i otad bajkovito oËarava djecu te, πto je posebice naglasila autorica Arijana KoprËina, jednako tako cijele obitelji, jer svi zajedno sudjeluju u pripremi i stvaranju blagdanskog ugoaja. Za vrtiÊku i πkolsku djecu Muzej je priredio zanimljivo iznenaenje: za trajanja izloæbe moÊi Êe sudjelovati u mnogim radionicama i uz struËno vodstvo izraivati boæiÊne ukrase na tzv. stari naËin. n innamon and vanilla, quintessential holiday fragrances wonder fully evocative of Christmas, conjure up memories of childhood. Their tantalizing aromas pervade the ground floor of Zagreb’s Museum of Arts and Crafts, where the exhibition Advent in the Museum of Arts and Crafts spreads over three halls and presents three thematically different, yet closely connected facets of Christmas. The authors are Arijana KoprËina, designer Dean FraniÊ and academic painter Saπa ©ekoranja, the last a versatile artist who is known to provide the divine floral arrangements in his floral gallery with yet another dimension of beauty, while his reputation as an exceptionally inspired creator of Christmas floral decoration has grown for years. This exhibition at the Museum of Arts and Crafts may be perceived and experienced as a homage of sorts to Christmas, as it will probably not be seen ever again, at least not in one place; it is an opulent presentation which was put together with help from various Croatian museums where old Christmas decorations are carefully safeguarded. One could say that there were two underlying motifs for this exhibition: the first one was a honoris causa, the cause being the most popular Christian holiday. According to Vesna LediÊ, Assistant Director of the Museum, It presents the holiday atmosphere in Croatia as it was from the mid-19th century to the mid-20th century. The second was the Museum’s desire to present a quality exhibition worthy of its Europe-wide good reputation. The exhibits are all Croatian, save for one exception, the so-called eastern bloc featuring a little train from the Soviet Union at full speed and a Christmas tree decorated with festive ornaments that have been produced for that vast market. Among other socialist New Year’s decorations, such as Father Frost, who brings gifts, there are also two glass rarities; little astronauts which were crafted at the time when Yuri Gagarin

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was not only a Soviet national star but also the first globally popular cosmonaut. The museology framework of the exhibition encompasses all segments associated with holiday festivities. Christmas cards, painted by hand or printed from various artists’ work are true masterpieces. Ms KoprËina used them to reconstruct Christmas customs as they once were in the city and in villages. Another segment consists of various decorations made from wool, straw, glass… Closely connected to them are candle holders and other wellknown symbolic paraphernalia, such as toys which were presented to children. − The Christmas tree decorating custom is much older than its Biedermeier past. It originates from Central Germany where it was first introduced by craftsmen’s guilds. It started spreading from there in the 16 th century, but it was only in the 17th century that it was first recorded as a household and family ritual. What has become a universally accepted Christmas custom did not appeared in the Hapsburg Monarchy until relatively late. The first Christmas tree was seen in Vienna only in the 19th century. According to some records, it was Baroness Fanny von Arnstein who brought the custom from Berlin and decorated a tree in her Vienna salon in 1812, much to the amazement of the Viennese aristocracy. According to another theory, the first decorated tree in Vienna was actually seen and recorded a year later, in 1813. Princess Henrietta von Nassau-Weilburg decorated the first tree at the Austrian Court in 1916, says Ms KoprËina, the author of the exhibition, and points out that Christmas trees were environmentally friendly already in the second half of the 19th century (they were made from coloured feathers or straw and looked very much like Pinus sylestrisima). The earliest Christmas trees were about one meter tall, which is why decorations were very small, only a few centimetres in size. In the early days, they were crafted from edible fruit, and then, human imagination took off, sparing nature but imitating it at the same time. It took some time for the inspiration from Vienna to arrive in Croatia, but ever since it did it has been a fairy tale story for children, as well as for entire families, a fact that Arijana KoprËina likes to emphasize, because everybody gets together to participate in the preparations and joins efforts to create a festive atmosphere. The Museum has prepared a pleasant surprise for pre-school and school children: during the exhibition, they will be able to take part in numerous workshops and learn how to make Christmas decorations the old way under professional guidance. n

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■ BAŠTINA HERITAGE

Dubrovnik i njegove zidine zajedno su nastajali, razvijali se i grlili uzajamnim povjerenjem. DubrovËani ih zovu i Miri od Grada jer one su im, kroz stoljeÊa zajedniËke povijesti, veliËinom, monumentalnoπÊu i snagom osiguravale mir, razvoj i opstanak. Dubrovnik je grad umjetnosti, a njegove zidine najljepπi okvir koji moæete zamisliti. Dubrovnik and its walls grew up together; they developed and hugged each other with mutual trust. The citizens of Dubrovnik also refer to them as the Miri of the City, due to the fact that they have secured their peace, development and subsistence with their size, monumentality and power over the long centuries of their shared history. Dubrovnik is a city of art, and its walls are the best frame you can possibly imagine for it. Piše/By Goran StojanoviÊ Fotograﬁje/Photos Damir FabijaniÊ

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imbol je svaki fenomen kojemu druπtvo pripisuje neko znaËenje, sustav vrijednosne komunikacije kojim se koriste samo ljudi te nije sluËajno πto u svom iskazu pobuuje intelektualno, etiËko i ﬁlozofsko zanimanje. On predstavlja i iskustvo utemeljeno na povezivanju stvarnih podataka, znakovito izraæenih. Simbol slobode i nesputanosti, poleta i ustremljenosti nebeskim visinama stoljeÊima je iskazivan letom ptice, najËeπÊe orla ili golubice, vedrinom neba ili uspravnim viteπkim maËem − izriËajem potrebne hrabrosti za njezino ostvarenje. Arhitektura i gradogradnja posjeduju simboliku i znakovitu realnost. VeÊ odavno je zapaæeno da su u piramidama, crkvama, vladarskim palaËama i velikim utvrdama kristalizirana snaæna znaËenja, sagraeni znakovi koji istiËu da su te pojave od kamena, drva ili cigle viπe od pukog objekta koji zadovoljava samo praktiËne namjene. Nikada ne bismo dokuËili znaËenja indijanskih ili papuanskih sela, da ih antropolozi nisu poËeli promatrati kao strukture i rasporede koji transponiraju rodovske odnose, mitove, legende, tabue, pravila o sklapanju brakova, imovinske i druge statuse, prevodeÊi ih pomoÊu samosvojnih struktura u slikovit, maπtovit, ali preteæno nesvjestan izraz, istiËe profesor Mladen PejakoviÊ u svojim Omjerima i znakovima (Matica Hrvatska, ogranak Dubrovnik 2006.). Od poËetka nastajanja Dubrovnik je sebe sustavno podizao grleÊi se svojim zidinama. Poput kakve veliËanstvene pozornice s nepreglednim kamenim zastorima, te su kamene impresije tijekom viπestoljetne povijesti jasno iskazivale svoju misiju − dostojanstveno i hrabro (o)braniti svoj Grad i njegovu slobodu. DubrovaËke zidine nikada nisu predstavljale samo fortiﬁkaciju, one i danas monumentalnoπÊu istiËu svetost snage svog zaπtitnika i zagovornika sv. Vlaha, koji je s Gradom imanentan i s njim istovjetan na mnogo naËina. Iz tog kamenog svemira izbija vitalnost i otisak ljepote osunËanih tornjeva, tvrava i bastiona zagledanih u more i pozadinsko kopno, ni danas ne gubeÊi æivotnost πto im ju je ugradila dugotrajna i burna povijest, mjera vremena otisnuta u vjeËnost. Upravo mjerenje vodi nas iz poznatoga u nepoznato. Sve se mjeri vlastitom mjerom: gutljaj vina, mrvica kruha, zrno soli… Sve je stavljeno na stazu Sunca i zvjezdanih noÊi. Mjere se i dominacije, veliËine, strukture, dubine i πirine, zvjezdani puti i putokazi. S njima se usporeuje i ocrtava prirodna okruæja uronjena u svoju simboliku. I dubrovaËka sudbina vezana je uz more i mjerenje. Sigurno ploviti oduvijek je znaËilo poznavati put Sunca i zvijezda, poznavati astronomiju i orijentaciju, procijeniti udaljenost, mudro se kretati u poloæaju i vremenu. KompoCROATIA AIRLINES

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Ne bojte se veliËine: neki su roeni veliki, neki je dostiæu, a nekima je nebeski darovana. William Shakespeare Na tri kralja Be not afraid of greatness: some are born great, some achieve greatness and some have greatness thrust upon them. William Shakespeare Twelfth Night

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nenta poloæaja i vremena, funkcija orijentacije u temeljima su dubrovaËkog opstanka i egzistencije od njegova nastanka. Izmeu πuma (dubrava) i uzburkanog mora rastao je Grad sa zidinama koje su mu dizane kao kamena uzvojnica, na hridi − Lausu, Rhagusiumu − sudbinskome mjestu susreta civilizacija, stjenovitom i nevelikom prostoru, koji je iziskivao suradnju temeljenu na logosu diplomacije, ljudskoj mudrosti i uravnoteæenom razumijevanju razliËitosti. Sloboda, libertas − bio je i ostao simbol Dubrovnika i slogan pradavne DubrovaËke Republike. U njoj se sloboda smatrala jednom od najveÊih æivotnih vrijednosti te je meu prvima u svijetu i prva u Europi zabranila ropstvo, donijevπi odluku o zabrani davne 1416. godine. Republika je tada imala i dvije zastave, sluæbenu − s likom svog parca sv.Vlaha te drugu s natpisom Libertas, koja je izraæavala najcjenjeniji moto svoga postojanja i svjetlosno ustrojstvo svoje izvornosti. Dubrovnik je grad slobode, a zidine duge 1940 metara njegova su zaπtitniËka krila, neprobojna za sve osim za slobodu. Ovdje se osjeÊa snaga neba i zemlje, tu se uËi mjera æivota stavljena u prostor u kojemu je uËenje nezaobilazan Ëin. Na sve Ëetiri strane svijeta zidine grle svoj Grad u obliËju nepravilnog viπekutnika, s MinËetom na vrhu sjeverozapadnoga kopnenog ugla Grada i tvravom sv. Ivana s morske, jugoistoËne strane. Snaæne tvrave, Lovrijenac na Pilama i Revelin na PloËama, iako su odvojene od zidina, pripadaju u njegov obrambeni sustav. Od 13. stoljeÊa prostor staroga grada veÊ je deﬁniran te se viπe nije mogao πiriti. Tada su ga gradske zidine poËele snaænije grliti svojim nastajanjem, sve do 17. stoljeÊa kad su poprimile svoj danaπnji izgled. Mnogi znameniti majstori, meu kojima su Juraj Dalmatinac, Onofrio i Simeon della Cava, Paskoje MiliËeviÊ, Ivan iz Siene, Giovanni Baptista Zanchi iz Pesare, Nikifor Ranjina, uz bezbroj nepoznatih meπtara, ostavili su svoje tragove na tim Ëvrstim i monumentalnim oblicima i njegovim zdanjima. Rasle su i do visine od 25 metara. ©irina je bila od jedan i pol do tri metra s morske te od Ëetiri do πest metara s kopnene strane, zbog obrane i sigurnosti i zaπtite unutarnjega od vanjskog svijeta, koji Ëesto nije bio dobrostiv i spreman na mirnu suradnju. U zadatosti vremena, bez razmetanja i uz stroga pravila, gradili su se i dograivali ti kameni bedemi sigurnosti i snage. Najviπe je tu tragova gotike i renesanse skladno poloæenih u linije i forme jedinstvene cjeline na odvaæan, ali i nenametljiv naËin, a opet dominantno vidljiv oku s mora, kopna i neba, sa samopoπtovanjem utkanim u svaki kamen. U tegobnim vremenima Republika je nalagala da svaki gost−dolaznik 126

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iz smjera Gruæa ili PloËa ima obvezu pri ulasku u Grad unijeti jedan kamen u skladu sa svojom tjelesnom graom. Tim Ëinom dolaznik je gradio sigurnost zajednice, posljediËno i svoju osobnu, spajajuÊi se s kolektivnom duπom prostora u koji ulazi. Zidine su zato i do danas ostale nepokorene. Tornjevi i tvrave dubrovaËkih zidina zanosno se smjenjuju u Ëetvrtastim ili ovalnim masivima iskazujuÊi veliËinu tisuÊa klesarskih i zidarskih ruku koje su u njih utkale svoj znoj i bezimenu umjetnost protkanu za vjeËnost. MinËeta, naziva dobivena po dubrovaËkoj vlasteli Menze−MenËetiÊ, tvrava je impresivna izgleda smjeπtena na spoju zapadnoga i sjevernog dijela zidina. Oda je to kamenu i slobodi, pogled usmjeren nebu, ponosito zdanje dubrovaËkoga fortiﬁkacijskog sklopa. Okrugla oblika s izraæenim kruniπtem, dominira poloæajem u gradskoj vizuri te snaæno ocrtava simboliku viteza koji hrabro doËekuje sve dolaznike s porukom: Dobronamjerni dobro doπli, ostali ne prilazite! Njezina je orijentacija pragmatiËna i simboliËna i takva iskazuje potvrdu vjere poloæene na zrake blagdanskog sunca prema kamenoj auri najviπega gradskog kruniπta. Tvrava Lovrijenac uznosita je utvrda zvana i Gibraltar Dubrovnika. StoljeÊima je, danju i noÊu, na 37 metarskoj hridi bdjela nad svojim Gradom i luËicom u podnoæju svojih zidina, sagraena kao iskaz snage u æelji odvraÊanja neËasnih namjernika s mora od uzaludna ratovanja. VeÊ na ulazu uklesanim natpisom: Non bene pro toto Libertas venditur auro (Ni za sve zlato ne prodaje se Sloboda) iskazuje snagu svoje misije. Ovaj kolos od kamena, jednostavan u svojoj monumentalnosti i veliËini, ulijeva sigurnost o neosvojivosti. U njemu se od 14. do 19. stoljeÊa izmjenjivala posada od dvadeset Ëuvara na Ëelu s kapetanom iz reda dubrovaËke vlastele, koji se mijenjao svakih mjesec dana. Tu se motrilo, Ëuvalo i stanovalo, ali i molilo, zavjetovalo te traæilo oprost u skromnoj kapeli sv. Lovre, po kojoj je tvrava i dobila ime. Jedna od rijetkih prigoda, kad se pucalo s Lovrijenca, bila je neposredno nakon velikog potresa, koji je u travnju 1667. zadesio Dubrovnik, kad je njegov zapovjednik Pero OhmuËeviÊ naredio pucati na dvije mletaËke galije koje su poËele s iskrcavanjem na najoπteÊenijem dijelu zidina, izmeu bastiona sv. Andrije i tvrave Bokar, nakon Ëega su se galije povukle prema Gruæu. Utvrda je bila u sluæbi obrane DubrovaËke Republike sve do njezina pada 1806. godine, zatim Francuske, Austro-Ugarske… Od 1952. Shakespeare ga osvaja svojim djelima kada ga kroz DubrovaËke ljetne igre posjeÊuju Hamlet, Richard II. i III., kralj Lear, Julije Cezar i Lady Macbeth. Ovdje se Ëesto Ëuje glas i Pirandella, Molièrea, Brechta i

mnogih drugih dramskih i knjiæevnih stvaralaca. Svoj tadaπnji porat, luku Grada, osiguravala je i danaπnjim izgledom tvrava sv. Ivana, koja je bila graena kao utvrda za njezinu obranu. Ta fortiﬁkacija, kao kakva ljudska πaka stisnuta u pest, iskazuje svjedoËanstvo o Ëuvanju svoga Grada i njegove morske uvale. Od davnih je vremena grlila brodove koji su u nju ulazili, donoseÊi iskustva, boje i mirise drugih zemalja. U cjelokupni tlocrt grada i njegovih zidina svakako pripada i najveÊa utvrda − trapezoidni Revelin. Ta predutvrda na istoËnom ulazu neobiËna je izgleda, a kao kasna obrambena fortiﬁkacija i danas privlaËi svojom osobitoπÊu. Vojno ustrojstvo i organizacija obrane Grada oduvijek su bili pomno osmiπljeni. ©esnaest kula, tri tvrave, πest bastiona, dvije kantonate − ugaona utvrenja i tri jarka, valobran Kaπe i dva podizna mosta precizno su bili posloæeni u sigurnosno ustrojstvo u kojemu je svaka tvrava imala svog zapovjednika biranoga iz redova vlastele na rok od mjesec dana. Kad se nasluÊivala opasnost, obrana je bila podizana na viπi stupanj gotovosti. Tada je obranom rukovodio guverner oruæja, profesionalac svoje struke, te dva generala birana iz redova starije vlastele. Duge zidine tada su bile pod stalnom straæom i nadzorom. Dva gradska podizna mosta, jedan na zapadnom predgrau Pila, drugi na istoËnim PloËama, osiguravali su ulaz i izlaz iz Grada i njegova kamenom obzidanog svijeta s razboritim urbanizmom

i unikatnim svemirom jasnoÊe i svjetlosti. »uvarima tvrava i utvrda zacijelo nije bilo lako boraviti meu hladnim zidinama i bedemima u osami tijekom straæa i ratnih opasnosti, u neprestanoj budnosti i oprezu. S tih pozicija njihovu oku nije mogla promaknuti nikakva opasnost koja bi mogla ugroziti Republiku i sloboda njezinih graana. Na dubrovaËkim zidinama povlaπteno mjesto ima samo sv. Vlaho. Svetac je to i nebeski zaπtitnik πto u svojoj ruci dræi Dubrovnik, grad koji mu je povjeren na nebesku skrb. Znaju to i osjeÊaju DubrovËani joπ od daleke 927. godine kad je Gradu Ëudom pritekao u pomoÊ, najavivπi opsadu MleËana koji su se ukotvili u Gruæu i pod Lokrumom s izlikom opskrbe hranom, a s pravom namjerom zauzeti Grad. Poπto je namjera MleËana bila osujeÊena, Dubrovnik se smjestio u dlan sveca, u kojemu se otad osjeÊa zaπtiÊen i siguran. Graani Dubrovnika oduvijek su nosili neki osobit naboj u æivotu svoga grada, kako u razboritosti, tako i u æivotnosti i volji za napretkom. Grad i njegova Republika nosili su obvezu visinskog pogleda u vrijeme, u pouke proπlosti koje se mudro trebaju primijeniti i oËuvati za buduÊnost. Jedan od uglednih graana, Miho Pracat, bogati veletrgovac i pomorac, uporan i spretan u trgovaËkim poslovima i pomorstvu, bio je pravi izdanak i sin DubrovaËke Republike. Kad je postao vrlo bogat, a nakon nekoliko

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æivotnih neuspjeha, gradeÊi brodove i baveÊi se veletrgovinom i bankarstvom, otkupljivao je i oslobaao krπÊane iz ropstva, a velike je donacije davao u humanitarne svrhe te razvoj Grada. Predaja kaæe da je tijekom velike oskudice u ©panjolskoj svojim brodovima probio gusarsku opsadu i gladnom narodu Karla Petoga donio æito. Kad ga je vladar primio u posjet tijekom jutarnje toalete, πto je bila osobita Ëast u to vrijeme, kralj mu je ponudio da izabere bogatu nagradu za iskazanu hrabrost i uËinjeno djelo. U svom odgovoru Miho Pracat iskazuje mudrost iskusnih: Dovoljno sam imuÊan da ne traæim bogatstva; Ëasti ne æelim, jer sam vladar svojih brodova; naslova ne pitam jer sam graanin DubrovaËke Republike. Ali neka mi Vaπe VeliËanstvo pokloni ovaj ruËnik da ga Ëuvam kao uspomenu na Vaπu milost. Taj se ubrus i danas Ëuva u Riznici DubrovaËke biskupije kao potvrda te æivotne priËe koja izraæava postignuÊe graanina ureene dræavice smjeπtene na maloj hridi okruæenoj morem, na putovima razliËitih civilizacija. Kad se dubrovaËkim zidinama prilazi s bilo koje strane, moæe se osjetiti magiËna moÊ toga graditeljskog Ëina. Grad u njemu spona je i njegov neodvojiv dio, nevidljiva crta razdiobe koja nudi slobodu ali i traæi odgovornost boravka u njegovoj utrobi. Njihovim obilaskom moæe se proniknuti u tek manji dio ove monumentalne kamene proπlosti. 128

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Uska, strma i sigurna stubiπta velikih kamenih kolosa u savezniπtvu sa svojim predziima stalno otkrivaju nove vizure i poglede. Neostvariva je moguÊnost da se pronikne u tajne æivota koji je nekad strujao njihovim hodnicima, prolazima, razliËitim otvorima. Neke Êe tajne zidine, kao i njegov Grad, vjeËno saËuvati u sebi. Tek je zvijezdama i Suncu dano na pamÊenje o kojima je tajnama i sjeÊanjima rijeË. Dubrovnik na razmeu i poveznici svjetova, civilizacija i kultura sudbinsko je odrediπte osobitih ljudi i kreacija, a njegove zidine njegova su zemaljska i ﬁziËka zaπtita, koja s nebeskom, u liku sv. Vlaha, tvore znak, pojavu i simbol arhitektonske, kulturne, povijesne i mistiËne iznimnosti. Netko Êe upitati: Zar je moguÊe sve to imati na jednome mjestu, nevelikome po povrπini? OdvraÊam: Dubrovnik nije grad po mjeri obiËnosti, njega su iscrtavali velikani zvjezdanih pogleda, jer bez pogleda u nebo i mora i tla ostaju osiromaπena za veliËinu nebeskog svoda koji se u njima zrcali. n

ll phenomena which have signiﬁcance in the eyes of society become symbols, a valued communication system which are used only by humans, so it is no wonder that they arouse intellectual, ethical and philosophical interest. They also represent

experience which is based on the process of linking the real information expressed by signs. For centuries, a bird in flight, most commonly an eagle or a dove, has been used as a symbol of freedom and a complete absence of constraints, zeal and a strive towards celestials heights; other such symbols were the brightness of the sky or a knight’s sword pointing upward as an expression of the courage which is required to achieve it. Architecture and urban development also have their symbolism and significant reality. A long time ago it was observed that strong radiations are crystallized in pyramids, churches, emperors’ palaces and large fortifications; and that the signs built in them convey a message that those edifices made from stone, timber and bricks are more than mere buildings with only a practical purpose to serve. We would have never fathomed the significance of Indian or Papuan villages had anthropologists not started to regard them as structures and layouts that reflect tribal relationships, myths, legends, taboos, rules regarding marriage, property and other relations, and translate them into a picturesque, imaginative but predominantly unconscious expression with the help of remarkable structures, says Professor Mladen PejakoviÊ in his Ratios and Signs (Matica Hrvatska, Dubrovnik Branch 2006) From the very beginning of its days, Dubrovnik has systematically erected itself in the embrace of its walls. Like a magnificent stage featuring unending stony curtains, those stone impressions have clearly expressed what their mission has been throughout their centuries’ long history − to defend the city and its freedom with dignity and courage. The Walls of Dubrovnik have never been just a fortification system; to this very day, their monumental presence highlights the sanctity of the courage of St. Blaise, its patron saint and intercessor, who is immanent with the city and identical to it in many ways. Vitality and a mark of beauty imprinted onto the sun-bathed fortresses, forts and bastions trained on the sea and hinterland emanate from this universe cast in stone. To this very day they have never lost the vitality that the long and stormy history has built into them as a measure of time engraved into eternity. The act of measuring is what takes us from the known into an unknown. Everything is measured by its own measure: a sip of wine, a crumb of bread, a grain of salt. Everything is placed on the trail of the sun and starry nights. Dominances, sizes, structures, depths and widths, starry roads and road signs are also measured. Natural environments immersed in their symbolism are compared and outlined against them.

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The destiny of Dubrovnik is also closely connected with the sea and measuring. To navigate safely has always meant to be familiar with the trajectories of the sun and stars; to know one’s astronomy and orientation; to be able to estimate distances; to tread wisely both in space and time. The components of position and time, as a function of orientation, have underpinned Dubrovnik’s survival and existence from the day it was born. A city emerged between forests (dubrava in Croatian) and the rough sea. Its walls were erected as the city’s stony helix on a rock Laus, Rhagusium − a fateful place where civilizations crossed paths, a little rocky area which called for cooperation based on the logos of diplomacy, human wisdom and a balanced understanding of differences. Freedom, Libertas − has always been the symbol of Dubrovnik and the slogan of the ancient Dubrovnik Republic where freedom was considered one of the greatest values of life. Dubrovnik was among the first states in the world and the first in Europe that banned slavery. A decree to that effect was passed way back in 1416. Back in the day, the Republic had two flags − the official one which depicted an image of its patron, St. Blaise, whereas the other depicted the inscription Libertas, which conveyed the most valuable motto of its existence and the beacon of light of its authenticity. 130

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Dubrovnik is a city of freedom, and its 1,940 metre long walls are its protective wings, impenetrable to all but freedom itself. One can feel the power of the sky and the earth here; you learn about the measure of life in an area where learning is a must. The walls embrace its city on all four sides. They are shaped as an irregular rectangle, with the MinËeta Fortress on top of the northwestern mainland corner of the city and the fortress of St. John on the south-eastern seaside. The powerful fortresses Lovrijenac in Pile and Revelin in PloËe, although separated from the walls, still fall under the city’s defence system. The perimeter of the old city was well defined already in the 13th century, which meant that the city could no longer spread beyond its boundaries. From then on, the walls started to exert a more firm embrace as they continued to grow up until the 17th century when they finally assumed their present shape. Many famous master stonemasons, including Juraj Dalmatinac, Onofrio and Simeon della Cava, Paskoje MiliËeviÊ, Ivan from Sienna, Giovanni Baptista Zanchi from Pesara, Nikifor Ranjina, and myriad other, anonymous craftsmen, left their mark on these firm and monumental shapes and forms. They grew to be 25 metres tall at places. Depending on the requirements, their width varied from one and a half to three meters on the seaside, and from four to six

metres on the mainland side. The main criteria were defence, as well as security and protection of the interior from the outside world which often proved to be neither very benevolent nor prone to peaceful cooperation. Given the contingency of time, without any ostentation and by following stringent rules, the stone walls of security and power were built and added onto, mostly in the gothic and renaissance styles which were harmoniously laid to shape the lines and forms of this unique edifice in an audacious but also inconspicuous way, and still a way which made the walls dominantly visible from the sea, the mainland and the sky, with self-respect woven into every stone of their body. During times of hardship, the Republic had a rule that every visitor who entered the city, either from the direction of Gruæ or PloËe, was required to bring in a stone in accordance with their body structure. That was how they contributed to the security of the community, and consequently their own, and thus they became connected with the collective soul of the area that they were about to enter. That is why the walls remain unconquered to this very day. The rectangular and oval shapes of the city bastions and forts follow each other in a spectacular suite, reflecting the grandeur of the thousands of masons and stonemasons whose sweat and anonymous art are built into them for eternity. MinËeta, which got its name after the noble family Menze − MenËetiÊ, is an impressively looking fortress, located at the conjunction of the western and northern parts of the walls. It is an ode to stone and freedom, trained towards the sky, a proud edifice within Dubrovnik’s fortification system. The position of the round building with prominent battlements dominates the city vista and strongly echoes the symbolism of a knight who valiantly meets and greets visitors with a message: The well-meaning ones, step forth, others, do not approach! Its orientation is both pragmatic and symbolical, and as such it reaffirms the message of faith laid out on the rays of the holiday sun towards the stony aura of the highest city battlements. The Lovrijenac Fort is another proud edifice, also known as the Gibraltar of Dubrovnik. For centuries it has held day and night vigil over the city and the little harbour at the foot of the 37-metre high rock on which it was built as an expression of a strong desire to thwart the intentions of the dishonourable ones who came from the sea to wage a futile war. Already at its entrance, with the inscription Non bene pro toto Libertas venditur auro (Liberty is not well sold for all the gold) carved in stone − it conveys the strength of its mission. This colossal stony

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structure, simple in its monumentality and size, instils confidence about its invincibility. From the 14th to the 19th century, 20 guard-strong crews worked there in shifts, headed by a captain from the ranks of the Dubrovnik nobility who was replaced every month. They used the tower as an observation post in which they lived and prayed, they took wows and sought forgiveness in the unassuming chapel of St. Laurus, from which the fort derives its name. One of the rare occasions on which shots were fired from Lovrijenac was immediately after the devastating earthquake which had struck Dubrovnik in April of 1667. The person in charge of the guards at the time was Pero OhmuËeviÊ. He ordered the crew to open fire on two Venetian galleys which had started disembarking on the most damaged part of the walls between the bastion of St. Andrew and the Bok Fortress. The galleys withdrew towards Gruæ. The fortress was in the service of the defence of the Dubrovnik Republic up to its fall in 1806, and then it served others, the French, the Austro-Hungarians... As of 1952, it has been Shakespeare’s turn to conquer it with its dramas. Their protagonists, Hamlet, Richard II and III, King Lear, Julius Cesar and Lady Macbeth have all paid a visit to it during The Dubrovnik Summer Festival. The voices of Pirandello, Moliere, Brecht and many other dramatists and literary authors can also be heard here often. St. John’s Fortress was originally built to defend the city harbour; at one time the only harbour of Dubrovnik. Resembling a clenched fist, its appearance still testifies to the preservation of the city and the bay it was given to safeguard. Since ancient times it has welcomed the boats that anchored in it, bringing the experiences, colours and fragrances of other countries with them. The largest fortress, a trapezoid Revelin, also falls within the perimeter of the city and its walls. The oddly shaped edifice has found its place at the eastern entrance into the city as a late 132

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addition to the defence system and continues to draw attention with its idiosyncrasy. The city’s military system and its defence have always been given a lot of thought. A total of 16 forts, three fortresses, six bastions and two cantonatas − i.e. corner bulwarks, three moats, the Kaπe windbreaker and two drawbridges were arranged ever so precisely and carefully into a security system. Every feature had its commander elected from the ranks of the nobility for a term of one month. When there was an imminent danger in sight, the defence was stepped up to a higher level of readiness. The overall defence would be taken over by the governor of arms, who was a professional, and two generals elected from the ranks of senior nobility. The long walls were under permanent guard and surveillance. The two drawbridges, one in the western suburbs of Pile and the other in eastern PloËe, secured entrance into and exit from the city and safeguarded its world encased in stone which boasted a wise urbanism and a unique universe of clarity and light. Fortress guards certainly did not ﬁnd it easy to spend time among the cold walls and bulwarks in the solitude of guard duty, especially at times of an imminent threat of war, when they had to be permanently awake and on alert. No danger could escape their attention from these positions, nothing that might have threatened the Republic and the freedom of its citizens. Only St. Blaise enjoys a privileged position on the city walls. The saint and celestial patron holds in his hand a model of Dubrovnik, a city which was entrusted to him for celestial care. The citizens of Dubrovnik have known this and felt it ever since the year 927 when a miracle happened and the Saint helped the city by announcing a Venetian siege. The enemy was anchored in Gruæ and off the shore of the islet of Lokrum, under the pretext that they had come for supplies of food, whereas their true intention was to take the city. When they were thwarted in their intent, Dubrovnik found its place in the palm of the Saint in which it has felt protected and safe ever since. The citizens of Dubrovnik have always provided the life in their city with a special oomph, with their wisdom, vital force and a propensity for progress. The city and its Republic have always had an obligation to take a lofty perspective on time; to draw lessons from the past and to apply them wisely and to safeguard them for posterity. One of the more prominent citizens, Miho Pracat, a rich wholesaler and seafarer, a determined and resourceful man when it came to trade and maritime affairs, was a true scion and son of the Dubrovnik Republic. After having experienced his fair share of failures, when

he finally became rich on the proceeds of shipbuilding, wholesale trade and banking, he started buying off Christians from slavery, while at the same time giving huge donations to various charities and for the development projects in the city. A legend has it that during a time of famine in Spain, his ships crushed a pirate siege and brought cereals to the starving people of Charles V. When the ruler received him during his morning levee, he offered him to choose his own reward for courage and the good deed he had done. In his response, Miho Pracat expressed the wisdom of the worldly: I am wealthy enough not to long for riches; I do not need honour, as I am the ruler of my ships; I am not asking for titles because I am a citizen of the Dubrovnik Republic. In lieu of any other rewards, your Majesty, give me this washcloth as a token of your mercy. The washcloth is still safeguarded in the Treasury of the Dubrovnik Diocese as proof of this true life story which encapsulates the achievements of a citizen of a well-organized little state nestled on a rock surrounded by the sea, at the crossroads of civilizations. Approaching the Dubrovnik walls from any side, you can feel the magical power of this structure. The city within the walls is its link and its inseparable part, an invisible separation line which offers freedom, but at the same time, demands responsibility in return for staying within its belly. A walk along the walls provides you with a mere glimpse into the history of this monumental stone edifice. The narrow, steep but safe staircases which lead to the stone giants keep on revealing new vistas and views. It is a mission impossible to penetrate into the mysteries of the life that used to flow through their corridors, passages and various openings. Many of the secrets will be kept forever by the walls and the city. Only the sun and the stars have been given to know what mysteries and memories these may be. Dubrovnik, a city at the crossroads and conjunction of worlds, civilisations and cultures is a magnetic destination for special people and creations; its walls are its earthly and physical protection. Together with its celestial protector St. Blaise, they constitute a sign, a phenomenon, and a symbol of an architectural, cultural, historical and mystical uniqueness. Somebody might wonder: Is it possible to have all that in one place, of such a small footprint? My answer would be: Dubrovnik is not a city measured by regularity; it was drawn by the mighty and great with star-gazing eyes, because without that, both the seas and the land would be deprived of the magnitude of the celestial sky which mirrors in them. n

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Dubrovnik Card Special tourist discount card

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3-day Card

Weekly Card

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions & 24 h public transport rides

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions & 10 public transport rides

includes free entrance to 8 cultural institutions & 20 public transport rides

No charge for children up to 12 years old

ONLY

130,00 kn

180,00 kn

220,00 kn

Includes free entrance to: City Walls, Maritime Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace, Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin DræiÊ, Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, DulËiÊ-Masle-Pulitika Gallery Includes: discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car discount, discounts on souvenirs, ...

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Priredila/Prepared by Crystal Hayes, PHLCVB Crystal@discoverPHL.com

Fotograﬁje ustupio/Photos courtesy of the Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau 134

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S »asopis Travel + Leisure stavio je Philadelphiju na prvo mjesto na popisu ameriËkih gradova za kulturu, a njezina umjetnost, glazba, ﬁlm, dizajn, moda, predstave i kulinarska energija pulsiraju kroz mnoge Ëetvrti koje se isprepleÊu, tvoreÊi tkivo grada. To je mjesto gdje se sreÊu ideje i odvaænost, intelekt i dosjetljivost, Ëime je osmiπljen suvremeni renesansni grad. Multikulturalna, otvorena, lijepa i suvremena, Philadelphia jest Amerika. Rated as America’s # 1 City for Culture by Travel + Leisure, Philadelphia’s art, music, ﬁlm, design, fashion, performance and culinary energy pulse through the many neighborhoods that weave together to create the fabric of the city. It is the place where ideas meet valor, and intellect meets ingenuity to design a modern day renaissance city. Multicultural, open, beautiful and modern, Philadelphia is America. CROATIA AIRLINES

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hiladelphia (Pennsylvania) rodni je grad Amerike i dom inovacija. Taj grad sjedinjuje bogatu povijest i rascvjetali kreativni duh, nagraivanu kulinarsku scenu, renomiranu umjetniËku i kulturnu zajednicu, intenzivan uliËni æivot, zelene parkove i trgovaËku Meku s dizajnerskim trgovinama i buticima koji nude kupnju bez poreza za svu odjeÊu i obuÊu. S obzirom na popis laskavih titula, koji ukljuËuje to da je Ëasopis National Geographic Phila-

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delphiju nazvao sljedeÊim sjajnim ameriËkim gradom, Ëasopis Travel + Leisure top odrediπtem za brzu hranu, hamburgere i sendviËe, a Frommer jednim od 10 najboljih gradova na svijetu po svojim parkovima, morali smo podijeliti s vama ovaj skriveni dragulj meu svjetskim odrediπtima. Smjeπtena na sjeveroistoku Sjedinjenih Dræava, Philadelphia je u srediπtu svega. Uz viπe od 1400 svakodnevnih letova, od toga 120 meunarodnih, Meunarodna zraËna luka

u Philadelphiji globalno je Ëvoriπte i jedna od najprometnijih zraËnih luka na svijetu, zbog Ëega je grad meunarodna poveznica. Dodatna je prednost za putnike to πto je grad udaljen manje od dva sata vlakom i od New Yorka i od Washingtona, D.C., πto je pogodno za izlete. Kad ste veÊ na zemlji, naÊi Êete se u gradu kojim je lako πetati i u njemu se snalaziti, s parkovima i kaﬁÊima na otvorenome, poploËenim ulicama i zgodnima, ugodnim Ëetvrtima. PrikljuËite se jednome od mnogih ponuenih pjeπaËkih obilazaka s vodiËem, odmorite noge i uæivajte u voænji tramvajem po gradskome srediπtu ili krstarite gradom na Segwayu. Gradsko srediπte moæete lako istraæiti sami, jer na raspolaganju vam je mreæa javnog prijevoza i najam bicikla, a grad moæete obiÊi i pjeπice. Srediπte grada Philadelphije proteæe se na manje od pet kilometara izmeu istoËne i zapadne granice ∑ rijekâ Delaware i Schuylkill. Kao dom Ëetvorne milje najbogatije povijeπÊu u Sjedinjenim Dræavama (na kojoj se nalazi Nacionalni povijesni park nezavisnosti), Philadelphia je poznata kao rodni grad AmeriËkog sna. Sagraen na hrabrim i poduzetnim vizijama otaca nacije (sjetimo se Williama Penna, Benjamina Franklina i Thomasa Jeffersona), taj je grad dom kultnim spomenicima slobode, ukljuËujuÊi Zvono slobode, meunarodni simbol slobode, te Dvoranu nezavisnosti, gdje je potpisana Deklaracija o nezavisnosti te izraen nacrt ameriËkog Ustava. Kao grad prvih doseljenika, Philadelphia je dom za mnoge od prvih ameriËkih ustanova, ukljuËujuÊi prvi zooloπki vrt u dræavi ∑ philadelphijski zooloπki vrt, prvu kaznionicu ∑ Kaznionicu Eastern State i prvu u Sjedinjenim Dræavama ∑ Pennsilvanyjsku bolnicu. Sve je to otvoreno posjetiteljima. (Bez straha, u kaznionici viπe ne stanuju zatvorenici, ali u njoj na-

lazi se najvaænija ameriËka opsjednuta kuÊa, posveÊena Danu vjeπtica ∑ Uæas iza zidova.) Philadelphia je grad koji predstavlja ameriËke vrijednosti slobode, ukljuËujuÊi vjersku autonomiju. To je mjesto gdje se sreÊu ideje i odvaænost, intelekt i dosjetljivost, Ëime je osmiπljen suvremeni renesansni grad. Multikulturalna, otvorena, lijepa i suvremena, Philadelphia jest Amerika. »asopis Travel + Leisure stavio je Philadelphiju na prvo mjesto na popisu ameriËkih gradova za kulturu, a njezina umjetnost, glazba, film, dizajn, moda, predstave i kulinarska energija pulsiraju kroz mnoge Ëetvrti koje se isprepleÊu, tvoreÊi tkivo grada. Muzeji u Philadelphiji posjeduju jednu od najopseænijih umjetniËkih kolekcija u Sjedinjenim Dræavama, ukljuËujuÊi najveÊu zbirku impresionistiËke umjetnosti na svijetu. Poznat i kao Svjetska prijestolnica murala, taj grad pruæa dom i najveÊoj zbirci skulptura na otvorenome i zidne umjetnosti na svijetu. Duæ Benjamin Franklin Parkwaya, koji se odnedavno naziva i Museum Row, mogu se pronaÊi meunarodno poznata djela, i to u Philadelphijskome muzeju umjetnosti, jednome od vodeÊih muzeja u zemlji, Rodinovu muzeju πto Ëuva najveÊu zbirku Rodinovih kipova nakon one u Parizu i u Zakladi Barnes, koja se diËi najveÊom privatnom zbirkom impresionistiËke i postimpresionistiËke umjetnosti. U Ëetvrti Old City (Stari grad) jedinstvene galerije nude neformalniji pristup umjetnosti uz proslavu Prvog petka ∑ alternativna mjesta, butici i privremene trgovine otvaraju svoja vrata prvog petka u mjesecu, organizirajuÊi veËeri æive zabave, prodaju umjetniËke robe i Ëesto koktele. Ta je Ëetvrt poznata po svome kreativnom duhu, od galerija do svih butika s odjeÊom.

Ako æelite doæivjeti umjetnost uæivo, poite u aveniju umjetnosti - Avenue of the Arts (Broad Street) ∑ dom kazaliπta i koncertnih dvorana, ukljuËujuÊi veliËanstveni Centar za scenske umjetnosti Kimmel, dom Philadelphijskog orkestra, te Glazbenu akademiju, glavnu pozornicu Pennsylvanijskog baleta. U Philadelphiji cvate kreativni duh, jer iz grada ili njegove okolice potjeËu mnogi zabavljaËi svjetskoga glasa. Will Smith, Kevin Bacon, Boys II Men, The Roots, Tina Fey, Richard Gere, Bradley Cooper, Grace Kelly, Bill Cosby, Gamble & Huff i kontroverzna Patti LaBelle samo su neki od lokalnih talenata ovdje u Philadelphiji. S pravom se ponoseÊi uspjesima na velikom ekranu, Philadelphia je posluæila kao kulisa za viπe od 85 ﬁlmova koji su ovdje snimljeni, a svaki se dan snimaju novi. Neki su od poznatih ﬁlmova snimljenih u Philadelphiji: ciklus Rocky, Kolo sreÊe (Trading Places), Svjedok (Witness), Philadelphia, Baπ kao ona (In Her Shoes), ©esto Ëulo (The Sixth Sense), Nacionalno blago (National Treasure), i Savrπena formula (Limitless). Filmovi: Jedan manje (Dead Man Down) (s Collinom Farrellom) i Paranoja (Paranoia) (s Harrisonom Fordom i Liamom Helmsworthom) nedavno su snimljeni u gradu i bit Êe prikazani 2013. godine. S velikog ekrana preselimo se u kuhinju. Philadelphia nudi raznolike vrhunske restorane. Grad je postao jedno od najjaËih gurmanskih odrediπta u Sjedinjenim Dræavama. Novi restorani privukli su gurmane u Ëetvrti koje su jednako eklektiËne kao i njihova kuhinja, odnosno u Rittenhouse Row, Old City, Northern Liberties, te Ëak i University City. Vlasnik viπe od deset ponajboljih i najpopularnijih gurmanskih okupljaliπta u Philadelphiji lokalni je ugostitelj Stephen Starr, Ëije resto-

rane Ëesto pohode slavne osobe u posjetu gradu. Vlasnik restorana i slavni kuhar José Garces pojavio se kao sjajan talent i jedan od najdarovitijih kuhara u zemlji. On je jedan od sedam kuhara u Sjedinjenim Dræavama, koji nosi uglednu titulu Iron Chef (preko Food Networka). U kuhinjama diljem Philadelphije naÊi Êete i kuhare dobitnike nagrade James Beard, Michaela Solomonova iz Zahava i Jeffa Michauda iz Osterije, te kuhare iz reality showa Top Chef (na TV mreæi Bravo), Kevina Sbragu i Jennifer Carroll. Æelite li kuπati domaÊe okuse Philadelphije, posjetite Reading Terminal, trænicu staru 120 godina, gdje poljoprivrednici prodaju omiljene lokalne proizvode poput philadelphijskih odrezaka sa sirom, velikih i bogato nadjevenih sendviËa hoagie i domaÊe hrane koju proizvode Amiπi iz Okruga Lancaster. Nakon toga, zaputite se prema Talijanskoj trænici ∑ najstarijoj i najveÊoj otvorenoj trænici u Sjedinjenim Dræavama, koja je joπ u funkciji, a ondje Êete naÊi delikatesni sir, kolaËe, talijanske specijalitete, tjesteninu i razliËite vrste kruha. Osloboena poreza na odjeÊu i obuÊu, Philadelphia je raj za kupce sa svih strana svijeta, koji traæe povoljne cijene. U srediπtu Philadelphije nalazi se viπe od 2000 maloprodajnih trgovina, ukljuËujuÊi dizajnerske

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butike, trgovine rabljenom robom, Macyjevu ﬂagship trgovinu u povijesnoj Wanamakerovoj zgradi, kao i Urban Outﬁtters te Anthropology, koji su philadelphijske tvrtke. Zara, H&M, French Collection, Coach, Burberry i Diesel tek su neki od meunarodnih brendova koje posjetitelji mogu naÊi u Philadelphiji. U blizini, trgovaËki centri King of Prussia Mall (najveÊi maloprodajni trgovaËki centar u zemlji) i Philadelphia Premium Outlets nude jedno od najboljih shopping iskustava u zemlji. S najveÊim urbanim sustavom parkova u vlasniπtvu grada na svijetu (da, na svijetu), Philadelphia je najzeleniji gradu u Americi. Staze Endless Adventure, rijeËne obale, biciklizam i gradske Ëetvrti isprepleteni su diljem grada kao nigdje drugdje u Sjedinjenim Dræavama. Fairmount Park u Philadelphiji sustav je parkova povrπine 10.000 jutara, a tvore ga 63 pojedinaËna parka ∑ za pustolovnog putnika to znaËi mnogo pjeπaËenja, voænje biciklom, veslanja, voænje u Ëamcu i trËanja. Oni koji viπe vole opuπtenu razonodu mogu uæivati u piknicima, πetnjama i promatranju ljudi. Za ljubitelje sporta Philadelphia nudi devet profesionalnih sportskih momËadi, meu kojima su Philadelphia Eagles (ameriËki nogomet), Union (nogomet), Philadelphia Phillies (bejzbol), 76ers (koπarka) i Philadelphia Flyers (hokej). Stanovnici Philadelphije strastveno navijaju za svoje momËadi i pritom su i pomalo neobuzdani. Zapravo, Ëasopis Travel + Leisure stavio je Philadelphiju na prvo mjesto na popisu sportom zaluenih gradova u Sjedinjenim Dræavama. Otkrijte Philadelphiju iz prve ruke i zacijelo Êete je napustiti oËarani. Istraæite to Ëvoriπte za 21. stoljeÊe, gdje je mladenaËka kreativna kultura u cvatu, a duboko ukorijenjena ameriËka povijest Ëeka da bude otkrivena. OsjeÊat Êete se kao Philadelphijanac dok lutate æivopisnim ulicama i uranjate u stari i novi ameriËki svijet. Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau poziva vas da otkrijete Philadelphiju. Posjetite www.discoverPHL.com i poËnite planirati putovanje! Na sljedeÊim web stranicama naÊi Êete informacije o znamenitostima i mjestima koja se spominju u ovom Ëlanku: http://www.independencevisitorcenter.com/ http://www.philamuseum.org/ http://www.philadelphiazoo.org/ http://www.rodinmuseum.org/ http://www.readingterminalmarket.org/

Philadelphia i Hrvatska povezani su kvalitetnom prijevoznom uslugom ostvarenome u suradnji Croatia Airlinesa i US Airwaysa od 27. lipnja ove godine. Usluga nudi tridesetak tjednih letova izmeu Philadelphije i Zagreba, Splita i Dubrovnika, s presjedanjima u πest europskih zraËnih luka i Ëekanjima do dva

sata. Suradnja je ostvarena u sklopu udruge Star Alliance. Croatia Airlinesu omoguÊen je izravni marketing u Philadelphiji, a putnicima se nudi usklaen i unaprijeen meunarodni prijevoz od prve registracije za let pa do zadnjeg odrediπta, uËinkovit prihvat i otprema putnika i prtljage u zraËnim lukama, koriπtenje klupskim Ëekaonicama, prepoznavanje statusa putnika, nagradne povlastice te druge pogodnosti tijekom putovanja. Since 27 June of this year, quality transportation services have connected Philadelphia and Croatia as a result of cooperation between Croatia Airlines (OU) and US Airways (US). This service, which is a joint US/OU product within the framework of the Star Alliance global transportation services, offers passengers as many

Opatija, Croatia

as thirty weekly ﬂights between Philadelphia and Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik. It enables Croatia Airlines direct marketing in Philadelphia, while providing passengers with upgraded harmonized

Hotel Ambasador

international transportation from the first point of registration for the flight to the final destination. This is achieved through shorter periods of time spent at

13-16 March

airports, use of the club’s lounges, recognizing the passengers’ status and the awarding of beneﬁts, as well as other travel privileges.

Andrey Barranikov

hiladelphia, pa, the birthplace of America and the home of modern innovation. This city combines rich history with a ﬂourishing creative spirit, award winning culinary scene, a renowned arts and culture community, vibrant street life, green parks, and a retail Mecca with designer shops and boutiques offering tax-free shopping on all clothing and shoes! With a brag list that includes being named the next great American city by National Geographic magazine; a top city for street food, burgers, and sandwiches by Travel + Leisure magazine; and one of the world’s 10 best cities for parks by Frommer’s − we couldn’t help but share this hidden gem of a global destination. Located in the Northeast United States, Philadelphia is at the center of it all. With more than 1,400 daily ﬂights, 120 of which are international, Philadelphia International Airport is a global hub and one of the world’s busiest airports, making the city an international gateway. An added perk for travelers, the city is a quick train ride (under 2 hours) from both New York City and Washington, D.C. making excursions quite convenient. Once on the ground you’ll find an easily walkable and navigatable city with parks and outdoor cafes, cobblestone streets, and charming, friendly neighborhoods. Take one of the many offered guided walking tours, put

Cormac Smith

Stanislav Naumov Alex Aiken Trevor Morris Galin Borodinov

The most prestigious awarding in the South-East Europe

Awards

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your feet up and enjoy a trolley tour of Center City, or cruise around town with a segway tour. Exploring the downtown district on your own is also very convenient with a network of public transportation, bike rental options, and by foot! Center City Philadelphia spans less than three miles (4.83 kilometers) between its east and west borders − the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers. Home to the most historic square mile in the United States (comprised of Independence National Historical Park), Philadelphia is known as the birthplace of the American Dream. Built on the courageous and entrepreneurial visions of the nation’s founding fathers (think William Penn, Benjamin Franklin, Thomas Jefferson), the city is home to iconic monuments of liberty including the Liberty Bell, an international symbol of freedom, and Independence Hall, where the Declaration of Independence was signed and the U.S. Constitution was drafted. A city of pioneers, Philadelphia is home to many American firsts including the nation’s first zoo − the Philadelphia Zoo, the first penitentiary − Eastern State Penitentiary, and the first hospital in the U.S. − Pennsylvania Hospital. All of which are open for tours! (Have no fear, the penitentiary no longer houses inmates but does host America’s no.1 Halloween haunted house − Terror Behind the Walls.) Philadelphia is the city that represents the American values of freedom (including religious autonomy). It is the place where ideas meet valor, and intellect meets ingenuity to design a modern day renaissance city. Multicultural, open, beautiful and modern, Philadelphia is America. Rated as America’s # 1 City for Culture by Travel + Leisure, Philadelphia’s art, music, film, design, fashion, performance and culinary energy pulse through the many neighborhoods that weave together to create the fabric of the city. Philadelphia’s art museums cover one of the most comprehensive collections of art in the U.S., including the largest collection of Impressionist art in the world. Known as the Mural Arts Capital of the World the city is also home to the largest collection of outdoor sculptures and mural arts across the globe. Along the Benjamin Franklin Parkway, newly coined Museum Row, internationally famous works can be found at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, one of the leading art museums in the country; the Rodin Museum, home to the largest collection of Rodin sculptures outside of Paris; and The Barnes Foundation, which boasts the world’s largest private collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist art. 146

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In the Old City neighborhood, unique galleries offer a more informal approach to art with the First Friday celebration − independent venues, boutiques, and pop-up shops open their doors for an evening of live entertainment, artist wares, and often cocktails on the first Friday of every month. Not that you can only stop in once a month. The area is known for its creative spirit from both the galleries to all of the boutique clothing shops. For live arts, head over to the Avenue of the Arts (Broad Street) − home to theaters and concert halls including the magnificent Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts, home of the Philadelphia Orchestra; and the Academy of Music, main stage for the Pennsylvania Ballet. The creative spirit thrives in Philadelphia as many world-class entertainers stem from the city or surrounding areas. Will Smith, Kevin Bacon, Boys II Men, The Roots, Tina Fey, Richard Gere, Bradley Cooper, Grace Kelly, Bill Cosby, Gamble & Huff, and the infamous Patti LaBelle are just a sampling of the local talent pool here in Philadelphia. Big screen bragging rights, Philadelphia has served as the backdrop for more than 85 films produced in the city with more in production every day. Some notable movies shot in Philadelphia include the Rocky series, Trading Places, Witness, Philadelphia, In Her Shoes, The Sixth Sense, National Treasure, and Limitless. Coming soon to a theater near you: Dead Man Down (featuring Collin Farrell), and Paranoia (featuring Harrison Ford and Liam Helmsworth) were both recently filmed in the city and are set to release in 2013. From the big screen to the kitchen, Philadelphia offers a variety of the nation’s top restaurants. The city has become one of the hottest dining destinations in the U.S. New restaurants have drawn gourmets to neighborhoods as eclectic as the cuisine in Rittenhouse Row, Old City, Northern Liberties, and even University City. More than a dozen of Philadelphia’s finest and most popular dining spots are owned by local restaurateur, Stephen Starr, whose restaurants are often frequented by visiting celebrities. Restaurant owner and celebrity Chef, Jose Garces, has emerged as an enormous talent and one of the nation’s most gifted chefs. He is one of seven chefs in the U.S. to hold the prestigious title of The Iron Chef (via the Food Network). In kitchens across Philadelphia you will also find James Beard award winning Chefs Michael Solomonov of Zahav, Jeff Michaud of Osteria, and Top Chef’s (by Bravo!) Kevin Sbraga and Jennifer Carroll. For a taste of Philadelphia’s local flavor, stop by Reading Terminal Market, a 120-year-old CROATIA AIRLINES

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Look out this aircraft’s windows to see our students’ limits. The sky’s the limit. You’ve heard this phrase countless times. But it rings true for students of the Zagreb School of Economics and Management, Croatia’s leading business school. Every facet of our undergraduate and graduate business programs is designed to help them succeed, from our immense international exchange program, to our career counseling services. The result? Business graduates with possibilities as wide and welcoming as the horizon from your window seat.

farmers’ market featuring local favorites such as Philadelphia cheesesteaks, hoagie sandwiches and homemade foods from the Amish of Lancaster County. Afterwards head over the Italian Market − the oldest and largest working outdoor market in the United States where you will find gourmet cheese, pastries, Italian delicacies, pasta, and breads. With no sales tax on clothing and shoes, Philadelphia is a bargain for shoppers across the globe. More than 2,000 retail spots are located in downtown Philadelphia, including designer boutiques, vintage shops, Macy’s flagship store in the historic Wanamaker building, as well as Urban Outfitters and Anthropology − both Philadelphia based companies. Zara, H&M, French Collection, Coach, Burberry, and Diesel are just a few of the international brands visitors can find in Philadelphia. Nearby, the King of Prussia Mall (the nation’s largest retail shopping complex) and Philadelphia Premium Outlets offer some of the best shopping anywhere in the country. With the largest city-owned urban park system in the word (yes, we said world), Philadelphia is the greenest city in America. Endless Adventure trails, riverfronts, bicycling and neighborhoods are woven through the city unlike anywhere else in the U.S. Fairmount Park in Philadelphia is a 10,000 acre park system made up of 63 individual parks − for the adventurous traveler that’s a whole lot of hiking, biking, rowing, boating, and running. For the more leisurely inclined, that’s a whole lot of picnicking, strolling, and people-watching! For the sports fan, Philadelphia offers nine professional athletic teams including the Philadelphia Eagles (American football), The Union (European football), the Philadelphia Phillies (baseball), the 76ers (basketball), and the Philadelphia Flyers (hockey). Philadelphia natives are passionate about their home teams, often known to be a bit outrageous. Travel + Leisure ranked Philadelphia the #1 sports-crazed city in the U.S. as a matter of fact. Experience Philadelphia first-hand and you’ll be sure to leave captivated. Explore this 21st century hub where an inspired young creative culture is blooming and deep-routed American history is waiting to be revealed. You will feel like a Philadelphian as you wander the vibrant streetscapes and immerse in America’s old world and new world. The Philadelphia Convention & Visitors Bureau invites you to Discover PHL! Visit www.discoverPHL.com to begin planning your trip! Check these websites for more information on many attractions/places mentioned here: http://www.independencevisitorcenter.com/

Dedicated to quality zsem is a member of aacsb International the Association to Advance Collegiate Schools of Bussiness | www.aacsb.edu

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http://www.philamuseum.org/ http://www.philadelphiazoo.org/ http://www.rodinmuseum.org/ http://www.readingterminalmarket.org/

Discover Croatia! In the dragon’s nest Nordic walking through the beauty of the island of Brac with a trainer in Nordic walking licensed by the International Nordic Walking Federation INWA; sightseeing tour of Split and visit to the Dragon’s cave and the Blaca Desert; boat ride with culinary delicacies.

Tangerine harvest in the valley of the River Neretva Tangerine harvest in the green valley of the River Neretva, boat ride down the River Neretva and visit to the museum Narona; sightseeing tour of Dubrovnik, visit to Konavle and Pelješac; visit to Split with sightseeing tour of Diocletian’s palace.

Travel agency

Zdenac života Trg bana Jelačića 3, Zagreb HR-AB-01-080721058

T: +385 1 481 6200 F: +385 1 483 3190 info@zdenac-zivota.hr www.zdenac-zivota.hr

Ministry of Tourism of the Republic Croatia

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■ POZNATI U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU CELEBRITIES IN OUR AIRCRAFT

Damir SenËar

Piše/By Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ

Mihovil ©panja, Darko Kralj, Mikela Ristoski, Zoran TaliÊ, Branimir BudetiÊ

onosni i presretni hrvatski sportaπi vratili su se zrakoplovom Croatia Airlinesa s najveÊega svjetskog natjecanja sportaπa s invaliditetom, 14. paraolimpijskih igara u Londonu. Darko Kralj osvojio je srebrnu medalju u bacanju kugle, Zoran TaliÊ u skoku u dalj, a Mikela Ristoski bronËanu medalju u skoku u dalj, Mihovil ©panja u plivanju te Branimir BudetiÊ u bacanju koplja. Na Paraolimpijskim igrama u Londonu od 29. kolovoza do 9. rujna natjecalo se 4200 sportaπa iz 170 zemalja u dvadeset jednoj sportskoj disciplini. Za Hrvatsku se natjecalo dvadeset pet sportaπa u pet sportova - atletici, streljaπtvu, biciklizmu, stolnom tenisu i plivanju. Predsjednik Hrvatskoga paraolimpijskog odbora Ratko KovaËiÊ izrazio je zadovoljstvo nastupom hrvatskih sportaπa u Londonu te pohvalio domaÊine zbog cjelokupne organizacije i velikog broja gledatelja na svim stadionima. 150

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- Atmosfera je bila Ëudesna, stadioni puni, sjajno se navijalo za sve sportaπe koji su slavljeni kao junaci. Britanski mediji takoer su izvrsno obavili posao, jer svaki dan bili su prepuni Ëlanaka o paraolimpijskim igrama. Osvojili smo pet medalja, a po broju osvojenih medalja to su najuspjeπnije igre za Hrvatsku. U paraolimpijskom ciklusu radilo se naporno i u skromnim uvjetima, a sportaπi su najviπe postigli upravo na igrama u Londonu. Moto nam je bio gledajmo prema moguÊnostima, a ne prema invalidnosti, πto se vidjelo i u medijima i dvoranama, koje su bile rasprodane do posljednjeg mjesta - zakljuËio je. Poslije povratka s natjecanja Mihovil ©panja istaknuo je kako su igre dokaz da paraolimpijski sport ide naprijed. Njima je zakljuËio svoj Ëetvrti paraolimpijski ciklus i sportsku karijeru. Naπ najbolji natjecatelj u plivanju osvojio je ukupno dvadeset pet medalja, nastupio je na trima paraolimpijskim igrama, a u Ateni 2004. godine osvojio je tri bronËane medalje. Nada se da je otvorio put mladim sportaπima i upozorio na probleme na koje nailaze sportaπi s invaliditetom. Darko Kralj jedini je Hrvat u povijesti sporta koji je u jednom danu Ëak pet puta zaredom ruπio svjetski rekord u bacanju kugle. Dobitnik je godiπnje Dræavne nagrade za sport Franjo BuËar i nagrade Ponos Hrvatske za 2008. godinu. U Pekingu je ostvario svoje snove i odluËio da Êe trenirati joπ jedan paraolimpijski ciklus i oprostiti se od natjecanja jer æeli se posvetiti obitelji. Mikela Ristoski, skakaËica u dalj, istaknula je da joj osvojena medalja mnogo znaËi i nada se da Êe u buduÊnosti osvojiti joπ koju. Zoran TaliÊ i Branimir BudetiÊ takoer su izrazili zadovoljstvo sudjelovanjem na igrama u Londonu, kao i cjelokupnim timom i Hrvatskim paraolimpijskim odborom. n

roud and overjoyed, the Croatian athletes returned on a Croatia Airlines plane from the greatest world competition for athletes with disabilities, the 14th Paralympic Games in London. Silver medals were won by Darko Kralj in the shot put and Zoran TaliÊ in the long jump. Bronze medals were won by Mikela Ristoski in the long jump, Mihovil ©panja in swimming and Branimir BudetiÊ in the javelin throw. At the Paralympic Games in London from 29 August to 9 September, there were 4,200 athletes from 170 countries who participated in 21 individual sports disciplines. Croatia was represented by twenty ﬁve athletes in

five disciplines − athletics, shooting, cycling, table tennis and swimming. The president of the Croatian Paralympic Committee, Ratko KovaËiÊ, expressed his satisfaction with the performance of the Croatian athletes in London and praised the hosts for the entire organization and the great number of spectators at all the stadiums. − The atmosphere was amazing, the stadiums full, and the spectators cheered incredibly for all the athletes, who were hailed as heroes. The British media also did an excellent job, as the newspapers were full of articles about the Paralympic Games every day. We won five medals, and this was the most successful games ever for Croatia based on the number of medals. During the Paralympic Games cycle, i.e. the time between two Paralympics, we worked under modest conditions, we worked hard and our athletes actually achieved the most at the games in London. Our motto was See the possibility, not the disability, which was evident in the media and in the sports halls, which were sold out completely, he concluded. After returning from the competition, Mihovil ©panja pointed out that the games were proof that Paralympic sports were moving forward. These games were the end of his fourth Paralympic cycle and his athletic career. Our best competitor in swimming won a total of twenty five medals, he starred in three Paralympic Games, and he won three bronze medals in Athens in 2004. He hopes that he has paved the way for young athletes and warned of the problems that athletes with disabilities encounter. Darko Kralj is the only Croat in the history of sports that has broken the world record in shot put five times in a row in one day. He is the winner of the annual Franjo BuËar State Award for Sport and the Ponos Hrvatske (Croatian Pride) award for 2008. He realized his dreams in Beijing and decided that he would train for one more Paralympic cycle and then say goodbye to the competition because he wants to devote himself to his family. Mikela Ristoski, a long jumper, expressed that her medal means a lot and she hopes that she will win more of them in the future. Zoran TaliÊ and Branimir BudetiÊ also expressed satisfaction with their participation in the games in London, as well as the entire team and the Croatian Paralympic Committee. n

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PROSINAC/DECEMBER Zagreb and surroundings 3.12.2012.-1.1.2013.,/3 December 2012 - 1 January 2013, Zagreb ADVENT U ZAGREBU/ADVENT IN ZAGREB Niz predblagdanskih manifestacija na zagrebaËkim trgovima pruæit Êe vam ugoaj adventa i BoæiÊa. Graani i gosti grada mogu uæivati u razliËitim zabavnim i kulturnim zbivanjima te u prigodnim prodajnim sajmovima./An array of events on Zagreb’s squares will provide an atmosphere of Advent and Christmas. Citizens and visitors of Zagreb will have an opportunity to enjoy various entertainment and cultural events as well as Christmas fairs. www.adventzagreb.com 14.-23.12.,/14 - 23 December, Zagreb BOÆIΔNI SAJAM BRANITELJSKIH ZADRUGA I UDRUGA/ HOMELAND WAR VETERANS’ ASSOCIATIONS CHRISTMAS FAIR Posjetite prodajno-izloæbeni sajam, prezentacije proizvoda i usluga koje su dio ovogodiπnjeg sajma. Osim braniteljskih zadruga i udruga, na sajmu se prezentiraju i obiteljska poljoprivredna gospodarstva, stari zanati, nakladniπtvo i sl./Visit the fair that will include exhibitions, sales and presentations of products and services which are all a part of this year’s edition. Apart from veterans’ associations, the fair will also feature presentations of family farms, old crafts, publications, etc. www.zv.hr 20.12.2012. - 17.2.2013.,/20 December 2012-17 February 2013, Zagreb »UDESNI SVIJET MARTE EHRLICH/THE AMAZING WORLD OF MARTA EHRLICH Posjetite izloæbu radova Marte Ehrlich (1910.-1980.) u Modernoj galeriji u Zagrebu. Ne podilazeÊi konvencijama bilo kakve vrste, slijedeÊi tek

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zahtjevnost vlastite imaginacije, na slikama je izrazila Ëudesnu multidimenzionalnost poetski umnoæene stvarnosti./ Visit the exhibition of works by Marta Ehrlich (1910 -1980), featured at the Modern Gallery in Zagreb. Without succumbing to any kind of conventions, following only the complexities of her own imagination, she expressed an amazing, multidimensional, poetically multiplied reality in her paintings. 23.12.,/23 December, Zagreb SNJEGULJICA I SEDAM PATULJAKA/SNOW WHITE AND THE SEVEN DWARFS U zagrebaËkom Domu sportova, u sklopu svjetske turneje, Moscow Stars on Ice odræat Êe djeËju predstavu na ledu Snjeguljica i sedam patuljka, jednu od najpopularnijih djeËjih priËa na svijetu./As part of their world tour, Moscow Stars on Ice will perform Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, one of the most popular children’s stories in the world, on the ice rink of Dom Sportova sports hall. www.eventim.hr 23.12.,/23 December, Zagreb ROMEO I JULIJA NA LEDU/ ROMEO AND JULIET ON ICE KlizaËi grupe Moscow Stars on Ice takoer Êe prikazati najpoznatiju ljubavnu priËu o Romeu i Juliji na velikoj ledenoj povrπini u zagrebaËkom Domu sportova./Ice skaters of the Moscow Stars on Ice troupe will also perform the best known love story in the world, Romeo and Juliet, on the ice rink of Zagreb’s Dom Sportova sports hall. www.eventim.hr 1.10.2012.-1.3.2013.,/1 October 2012 -1 March 2013, Zagreb STRUCTURE, STRUKTURE, TEKSTURE/FOSILI KAO INSPIRACIJA U MODNOM DIZAJNU/SUTURES, STRUCTURES, TEXTURES/ FOSSILS AS AN INSPIRATION IN FASHION DESIGN Ova izloæba u Hrvatskome prirodoslovome muzeju neobiËan je spoj geologije i paleontologije s modnim dizajnom te ujedno prikazuje fosilni svijet zabiljeæen na podruËju Hrvatske./The exhibition featured at the Croatian Natural History Museum presents an unusual connection between geology, palaeontology and fashion design. It also presents the world of fossils found in Croatia. www.hpm.hr

SIJE»ANJ/JANUARY Zagreb and surroundings 4. i 6.1.,/4 and 6 January, Zagreb AUDI FIS SVJETSKI SKIJA©KI KUP VIP SNOW QUEEN TROPHY 2013./THE AUDI FIS WORLD SKI CUP VIP SNOW QUEEN TROPHY 2013. Na utrkama na zagrebaËkom Sljemenu sudjeluju najbolji slalomaπi iz cijeloga svijeta. U tradicionalno dogaanje ukljuËuje se i publika iz srediπta grada./The best skiers from all over the world compete in the races in Zagreb. The traditional event is always very well attended by the public from the city centre. www.vipsnowqueentrophy.co 15.-19.1.,/15-19 January, Bjelovar ME–UNARODNI TJEDAN UDARALJKA©A/THE INTERNATIONAL WEEK OF PERCUSSIONISTS Glazbena smotra koja ugoπÊuje najznaËajnija imena udaraljkaπke glazbe iz Hrvatske i svijeta./This is a music revue featuring the most signiﬁcant names from the percussion music scene in Croatia and around the globe. www.tzbbz.hr 19.1., Meimurska vinska cesta/19 January, the Meimurje Wine Road VINCEKOVO/ST. VINCENT’S FESTIVITIES Vincekovo u Meimurju oznaËava poËetak vinogradarske godine. Degustirajte birana vina i tradicijska meimurska jela, a zabavit Êe vas veseli muæikaπi./In Meimurje, St. Vincent’s day marks the beginning of the wine season. Taste a selection of ﬁne wines and traditional specialties of Meimurje. Entertainment will be provided by merry musicians. www.tic-strigova.hr Osijek and surroundings 19.1.,/19 January, Kutjevo KUTJEVA»KO VINCEKOVO/ ST. VINCENT’S FESTIVITIES IN KUTJEVO Tradicionalna puËka svetkovina uz blagdan sv. Vinka, zaπtitnika vinogradara, kojom vinogradari kutjevaËkog kraja stoljeÊima obiljeæavaju poËetak rezidbe vinove loze, odræava se na jedinstvenom Trgu graπevine./This is a popular and traditional festival related

to St. Vincent’s day, the patron saint of wine-growers, with which the local wine-growers of the Kutjevo region have been marking the beginning of the cutting the grape vines for centuries. The festivities will take place on the unique Welschriesling Square (Trg Graπevine). www.tz-kutjevo.hr Rijeka and surroundings 17.1.-13.2.,/17 January-13 February, Rijeka RIJE»KI KARNEVAL/THE RIJEKA CARNIVAL Rijeka je postala glavnim gradom karnevala u Hrvatskoj. Pridruæite se mnoπtvu maski, Meunarodnoj karnevalskoj povorci i prepustite dobrom raspoloæenju na ulicama naπega primorskoga grada./Rijeka has become the Croatian capital of carnivals. Join a sea of masks in an international parade and enjoy the good mood on the streets of our coastal city. www.ri-karneval.com.hr VELJA»A/FEBRUARY Zagreb and surroundings 1.-12.2.,/1-12 February, Samobor SAMOBORSKI FA©NIK/THE SAMOBOR CARNIVAL Karneval kojim Samoborci tjeraju zle proπlogodiπnje sile, opraπtaju se od zime i otvaraju proljeÊu i predstojeÊoj godini. Desetak dana ulicama toga lijepoga grada vladaju maπtovite maske i veselje./This is a carnival during which the citizens of Samobor repel the evil forces of last year, they bid farewell to the winter and welcome the spring and the upcoming year. For ten days, the streets of this beautiful town will be ruled by masks and ﬁlled with a joyful atmosphere. www.fasnik.com 9.2.,/9 February, Donja Stubica SELJA»KA BUNA - BITKA KOD STUBICE/PEASANT’S REVOLT − BATTLE AT STUBICA Manifestacija predoËuje dogaanja u vezi s bitkom odræanom 9. veljaËe 1573. g., a organizirane su radionice za djecu i odrasle./The event presents happenings tied to the battle which took place on 9 February 1573, and it will also feature workshops for children and adults. www.tzdonjastubica.hr

* Za promjene u rasporedu poslije zakljuËenja Ëasopisa redakcija ne odgovara This schedule is valid on Decembre 12th. Allow for change after this date.

RijeËki karneval/The Rijeka Carnival

23.2.,/23 February, Zagreb MOTHER AFRICA/MOTHER AFRICA Hrvatsku, odnosno Zagreb, prvi Êe put posjetiti danas najinovativniji afriËki cirkus na svijetu, Ëiji Êe izvoaËi egzotiËnim nastupom u Koπarkaπkoj dvorani Draæena PetroviÊa doËarati afriËku divljinu i zacijelo impresionirati publiku./Croatia and Zagreb will be visited for the first time by the most innovative African circus in the world currently, whose troupes will convey the African wilderness and impress audiences with their exotic performance at the Draæen PetroviÊ Basketball Hall. www.eventim.hr.

their magic city to all visitors, who can look forward to numerous cultural and entertainment events.

Zagreb and surroundings 15.-17.3.,/15-17 March, Zagreb IWINETC/IWINETC IWINETC (Annual International Wine Tourism Conference) meunarodno dogaanje posveÊeno komercijalizaciji vinskih turistiËkih proizvoda./ IWINETC (Annual International Wine Tourism Conference) is an international event dedicated to the commercialization of wine-tourism products. www.iwinetc.com

Dubrovnik and surroundings 2.2. i 3.2./2 and 3 February FESTA SV. VLAHA/THE FESTIVAL OF ST. BLAISE DubrovËani veÊ viπe od tisuÊu godina slave blagdan svoga zaπtitnika sv. Vlaha, na Ëiji dan πirom otvaraju vrata svoga Ëarobnoga grada u kojemu vas oËekuju kulturna i zabavna dogaanja./For over a thousand years, the citizens of Dubrovnik have celebrated the holiday of their patron St. Blaise, by opening the doors of

Osijek and surroundings 7.-11.3.,/7-11 March, Vinkovci FESTIVAL DOKUMENTARNOG ROCK-FILMA DORF/FESTIVAL OF DOCUMENTARY ROCK FILM DORF Meunarodni festival povezuje ljubitelje ﬁlma i glazbe u inspirativnom okruæju Vinkovaca./This is an international festival that brings fans of music and ﬁlm together in the inspirational environment of Vinkovci. www.dorf-vk.com

OŽUJAK/MARCH

Festa sv. Vlaha/The Festival of St. Blaise CROATIA AIRLINES

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SADRÆAJ/CONTENTS 156 NOVOSTI NEWS 158 NAŠI ZAPOSLENICI OUR STAFF 162 NAGRADITE SVOJU VJERNOST LET YOUR LOYALTY BE REWARDED 166 U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT 169 FLOTA FLEET 171 ZEMLJOVID ODREDI©TA A MAP OF DESTINATIONS 173 ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB ZAGREB AIRPORT 174 ZA©TO VOLITE PUTOVATI WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL 176 ADRESE ADDRESSES CROATIA AIRLINES

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NOVOSTI U ZIMSKOM REDU LETENJA

PAY WITH YOUR MAESTRO CARD

Od 28. listopada zrakoplovi Croatia Airlinesa lete prema zimskom redu letenja, koji vrijedi do 30. oæujka 2013. godine. Uvoenjem zimskog reda letenja Croatia Airlines prilagodio je prometovanje svojih zrakoplova u domaÊemu i meunarodnom prometu potrebama putnika u zimskom razdoblju. Novost je da su na liniji Zagreb − Istanbul uvedeni letovi svaki dan, za razliku od proπlogodiπnjega zimskog reda letenja kad se letjelo triput. PodsjeÊamo, povoljnije zrakoplovne karte za sve letove Croatia Airlinesa moæete kupiti na www.croatiaairlines.hr

More than ten years ago, Croatia Airlines introduced the FlyOnLine service on its web page www.croatiaairlines.com in order to enable you to book flights, buy tickets, and organise your travels in the simplest possible way. The FlyOnLine service has been upgraded. The news is that beginning November, you can pay for your flights via the internet, not only by credit card, but also by using your Maestro debit card. Croatia Airlines ensures the safety of all online transactions, i.e. the protection of users’ personal data, and has been awarded for the integration of safety measures in the payment process via the internet with applications such as Verified by Visa and MasterCard Secure code, earning Croatia Airlines the prestigious Euro-Label certificate. Let us remind you that users of the FlyOnLine service can personally select their flights in either business or economy class, as well as book and purchase air tickets, airport fees, and fees for the issuance of an air ticket; all transactions are all clearly specified. Passengers can also book a particular seat or a specific meal.

NEWS ABOUT THE WINTER FLIGHT SCHEDULE

Croatia Airlines will be flying according to the winter flight schedule, which begins on the 28th of October and ends on the 30th of March, 2013. With the introduction of the winter flight schedule, Croatia Airlines has adjusted its domestic and international air traffic to the needs of travellers during the winter period. The news is that we have introduced daily flights on the Zagreb-Istanbul route, which is an increase from last winter when we only had three flights a week. Let us remind you that you can buy wellpriced air tickets for all Croatia Airlines flights at www.croatiaairlines.com PLAΔAJTE KARTE MAESTRO KARTICOM

Croatia Airlines na svojoj web stranici www.croatiaairlines.hr uveo je prije viπe od deset godina FlyOnLine uslugu kako bi vam omoguÊio da na πto jednostavniji naËin rezervirate i kupite zrakoplovne karte i organizirate svoje putovanje. FlyOnLine usluga godinama je usavrπavana, a novost je da od studenoga svoje zrakoplovne karte, osim kreditnim karticama, preko interneta moæete plaÊati i svim debitnim Maestro karticama, Croatia Airlines pobrinuo se za sigurnost online transakcija, odnosno zaπtitu podataka korisnika usluge, i nagraen je za integraciju procesa plaÊanja preko interneta s primjenom Veriﬁed by Visa i MasterCard Secure code sigurnosnih standarda te dobio prestiæni certiﬁkat EuroLabel. PodsjeÊamo, korisnici FlyOnLine usluge mogu sami odabrati let u poslovnome ili ekonomskom razredu, a tijekom procesa online rezervacije i kupnje toËno je odreena cijena zrakoplovne karte i pripadajuÊe pristojbe zraËnih luka, kao i naknada za izdavanje karte. Putnici takoer mogu rezervirati odreeno sjedalo i obrok. 156

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PRIMAJTE NEWSLETTER CROATIA AIRLINESA

Na naslovnoj web stranici www.croatiaairlines. hr moæete se registrirati i svaki mjesec primati newsletter na hrvatskome ili engleskom jeziku. OËekuju vas najnovije informacije o posebnim promidæbenim ponudama, nagradnim igrama, kao i informacije o ponudama koje nude partneri Croatia Airlinesa. Stoga, prijavite se kako biste pravodobno bili informirani o atraktivnim ponudama. SIGN UP FOR CROATIA AIRLINES’ NEWSLETTER

You can register at www.croatiaairlines.com and every month, you will receive the Croatia Airlines’ newsletter in either Croatian or English. The most recent information on promotional offers, contests, and special offers by Croatia Airlines’ partners await you! Therefore, register now and get informed on the most attractive offers on time. NAŠA KOLEGICA - NAJBOLJA TURISTI»KA DJELATNICA 2012. GODINE

Naπa kolegica Irma KatiËiÊ, voditeljica stanice Croatia Airlinesa u Münchenu, osvojila je prestiænu titulu turistiËke djelatnice godine u kategoriji zraËnog prijevoza za 2012. godinu. Djelatnike godine u 24 razliËite kategorije odabralo je Povjerenstvo Glavnog ureda Hr-

vatske turistiËke zajednice u sklopu projekta »ovjek − kljuË uspjeha u turizmu. Nagrade najuspjeπnijima dodijeljene su na Danima hrvatskog turizma, tradicionalnom godiπnjem susretu hrvatskih turistiËkih djelatnika, odræanima 18. i 19. listopada u Dubrovniku, u organizaciji Ministarstva turizma, Hrvatske turistiËke zajednice, Hrvatske gospodarske komore i Hrvatske radiotelevizije. OUR COLLEAJUE, THE BEST TOURISM WORKER IN 2012

Our colleague, Irma KatiËiÊ, Head of the Croatia Airlines Station in Munich, has won the prestigious title of Best Tourism Worker of 2012, in the category of air trafﬁc. A committee working on the A person − the Key to Success in Tourism project at the Croatian Tourist Board’s Central Ofﬁce, selected employees of the year in 24 different categories. The most successful employees received their awards at the Croatian Days of Tourism event, a traditional annual gathering of Croatian workers in tourism, held on the 18th-19th of October in Dubrovnik, and organised by the Ministry of Tourism, the Croatian Tourist Board, the Croatian Chamber of Commerce and Croatian Radio and Television. STAR ALLIANCE: STAR STATUS RECOGNITION I NOVI PARTNER

Croatia Airlines kontinuirano provodi πkolovanje svojih zaposlenika o temi Star Status Recognition radi odræavanja visoke razine usluge za sve putnike, s naglaskom na dosljedno pruæanje povlastica propisanih za statusne putnike svih Frequent Flyer programa Ëlanica Star Alliancea. Ulaskom Shenzhen Airlinesa u Star Alliance proπiruje se mreæa letova na kojima putnici mogu prikupljati nagradne i statusne milje te se u skladu s time koristiti Star povlasticama. STAR ALLIANCE: STAR STATUS RECOGNITION AND A NEW PARTNER

Croatia Airlines continuously conducts training of its employees on the topic of Star Status Recognition with the aim of maintaining a high level of services for all passengers, with a special emphasis on consistently providing the benefits prescribed for status passengers included in the Frequent Flyer Programs of all Star Alliance’ members. The inclusion of Shenzhen Airlines in the Star Alliance has expanded the network of flights on which passengers can collect award and status miles, and in line with that use the Star benefits.

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NAŠI ZAPOSLENICI VAMA NA USLUZI

Predstavljamo vam Tanju OžaniÊ, našu domaÊicu zrakoplova. Povod za ovaj razgovor humanitarni je ultramaraton koji je naša kolegica organizirala.

OUR STAFF AT YOUR SERVICE

We introduce you to Tanja OžaniÊ, our cabin attendant. The reason for this interview was humanitarian ultra-marathon which was organised by our colleague.

Piše/By Ana ΔulumoviÊ ŠoštariÊ

Ultra maraton/ultra-marathon Forrest Gump, Zagreb

anja OæaniÊ od veljaËe 2009. godine zaposlena je u naπoj kompaniji kao domaÊica zrakoplova. Za svoj posao kaæe da je za nju kraj svijeta i da ima samo ugodna iskustva s putnicima o kojima se brine na letu, kao i s kolegama. »im sleti i smjesti se u hotel, u kojemu se god gradu nae − Dubrovniku, Splitu, Puli ili Zadru…potraæi odgovarajuÊe mjesto za trËanje i prepuπta se omiljenom sportu. U svoj kovËeg, kaæe nam, uvijek najprije sprema sportsku opremu, a trËanjem je zarazila i svoje kolege, pa ih tako veÊ sedmero aktivno trËi u slobodno vrijeme. Aktivno trenira u πkoli Brooks running team u Zagrebu. Povod za ovaj razgovor humanitarni je ultramaraton RUN&BIKE4HELP, koji je naπa kolegica organizirala 3. studenoga na relaciji Delnice - Rijeka kako bi pomogla teπko bolesnoj Jeleni Mlinac. Ideja o tome ultramaratonu pojavila se poπto je naπa kolegica saznala za teπke uvjete u kojima æivi obitelji Mlinac iz Brod Moravica u Gorskom kotaru, a pomoÊ joj je prije svega potrebna za njegu i dugotrajno lijeËenje dvadesetpetogodiπnje kÊeri Jelene. Tanja se nije ustruËavala pokucati na mnoga vrata traæeÊi pomoÊ, a najprije su se odazvali 158

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mjeπtani iz njezinih rodnih Delnica, a zatim i mnogi drugi pojedinci i kompanije. Humanitarni je ultramaraton uspio, prikupljena su sredstva za Jelenu Mlinac, πto naπu kolegicu, koja zahvaljuje svima koji su sudjelovali, neizmjerno raduje i ispunjava. Tanja je od Delnica do Rijeke pretrËala otprilike 60 km za oko sedam sati, a na biciklima su je pratile dvije prijateljice, Sara Kudin i Tanja RankoviÊ, koje su bile suorganizatorice humanitarne akcije. Javilo se, naime, viπe trkaËa koji su æeljeli sudjelovati, ali bilo je premalo vremena za opseæniju organizaciju, pa Êe to ostaviti za neke nove maratone. Naime, naπa kolegica i njezine prijateljice æeljele bi da ultramaraton postane tradicionalan i da πto viπe ljudi sudjeluje, kako bi se svake godine od startnina mogla prikupiti sredstva za one kojima je to najpotrebnije. Tanja OæaniÊ proπlo je ljeto takoer sudjelovala na poznatome maratonu u Berlinu, na kojemu je bilo Ëetrdesetak tisuÊa natjecatelja, i trËala oko Ëetiri sata. Ljetni godiπnji odmor planira provesti na Floridi trËeÊi po plaæama Miamija i skupljajuÊi kilometre po Central Parku u New Yorku. Takoer planira sudjelovati na maratonu u BeËu, Madridu, Jeruzalemu i Berlinu…πto je osobito raduje, upravo kao i odlazak na svaki let. ■

ince February 2009, Tanja OæaniÊ has been employed at our company as an cabin attendant. She says her work is the end of the world and has only had pleasant experiences with the passengers she cares for during the ﬂights as well as with her colleagues. As soon as she arrives at the hotel, in whichever town she visits, Dubrovnik, Split, Pula or Zadar, she looks for a good track and enjoys going for a run. She says that when packing for a journey, she puts her sports equipment in her suitcase ﬁrst. She has infected her colleagues with a love for running and now, as much as seven of them go running in their free time. She is an active member of the Brooks Running Team in Zagreb.

The reason for this interview was humanitarian ultra-marathon RUN&BIKE4HELP, which was organised by a colleague of ours on the 3rd of November on the Delnice - Rijeka route to help severely-ill Jelena Mlinac. The idea of organizing the ultra-marathon came when a colleague found out about the difficult living conditions of the Mlinac family from Brod Moravice in Gorski Kotar. They needed help for the long-term care and medical treatment of their 25-year old daughter, Jelena. Tanja did not hesitate to knock on as many doors as she needed to in order to get help. The first people to respond to the appeal were those from her home-town followed by companies and many other individuals. The humanitarian ultra-marathon was a success and funds were raised for Jelena Mlinac, which made our colleague immensely happy as well as grateful to all the participants and contributors of the initiative. Tanja ran about 60 kilometres from Delnice to Rijeka in approximately seven hours, accompanied by her two friends on bicycles - Sara Kudin and Tanja RankoviÊ, the co-organisers of the humanitarian initiative. In fact, more runners would have participated if there had been a more extensive organization of the event beforehand; however, participants are lining up to take part in future marathons. The colleague of ours and her friends hope the ultra-marathon will one day become a tradition and include as many people as possible, so that ever year, they can raise money for those who need it most. Last summer, Tanja OæaniÊ participated in a well-known marathon in Berlin, where she ran for about four hours. She was only one out of forty thousand competitors at the event. She plans to go to Florida for the summer and run along the beaches of Miami, as well as through New York’s Central Park. Tanja also wants to participate in marathons in Vienna, Madrid, Jerusalem and Berlin. She is looking forward to these events, just like she always looks forward to each of her flights. ■

LANVIN, BALENCIAGA, AZZEDINE ALAร A, YVES SAINT LAURENT, GIVENCHY, BALMAIN, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA, 67(//$ 0&&$571(< &ะด/,1( %85%(55< 3525680 5,&. 2:(16 0$51, 9,211(7 $/(;$1'(5 :$1* $&1( )$/,(52 6$57, 0$,621 0,&+(/ 720 %,116 (5,&.621 %($021 1$7$/,$ %5,//, &$50,1$ &$0386 1,&+2/$6 .,5.:22' *,$19,72 5266, %85$. 8<$1 3285 0$5,$ /,1'$ )$552: /8;( 12,6 5(' /,1( 67(,'/ )/$00$5,21 6.,5$ 0DULD =DJUHE 0DVDU\NRYD 0DULD 'XEURYQLN 6Y 'RPLQLND EE 2XWOHW 'XEURYQLN &YLMHWH =X]RULรพ 2XWOHW =DJUHE &HQWDU .DSWRO 1RYD 9HV ZZZ PDULDVWRUH KU LQIR#PDULDVWRUH KU IDFHERRN FRP PDULDVWRUH KU CROATIA AIRLINES 159

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Croatia Airlines nagrauje autora najoriginalnije fotografije.

Ivan TopiÊ

Fotografirajte i otputujte Letite Croatia Airlinesom, fotografirajte i osvojite zrakoplovne karte. Autor najoriginalnije fotografije bit Êe nagraen dvjema povratnim meunarodnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa.

Zaπto volite putovati ? Budite kreativni. Fotografijom i jednom reËenicom izrazite zaπto volite putovanja. Najbolju fotografiju izabrat Êe Sluæba promotivnih aktivnosti Croatia Airlinesa, a fotografiju Êemo objaviti u sljedeÊem broju putnog Ëasopisa. Crno-bijele, fotografije u boji ili dijapozitive dostavite do 10. veljaËe 2013. godine na adresu: Croatia Airlines, Sluæba promotivnih aktivnosti, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, Hrvatska. Ne zaboravite priloæiti kupon s dna stranice.

" g.

ga

gica

IME PREZIME DATUM RO–ENJA ULICA I BROJ PO©TANSKI BROJ GRAD DRÆAVA TEL. E-MAIL

Uvjeti nagradne igre: - fotografije postaju vlasniπtvo Croatia Airlinesa - Croatia Airlines ne preuzima nikakvu odgovornost u sluËaju gubitka materijala - Croatia Airlines zadræava pravo koriπtenja fotografija u promidæbenim materijalima Croatia Airlinesa bez naknade - nagrada ne moæe biti zamijenjena za novac - djelatnici Croatia Airlinesa te Ëlanovi njihove uæe obitelji nemaju pravo sudjelovanja u nagradnoj igri

Croatia Airlines is rewarding the author of the most original photograph.

Maja Medenjak

Take a photo and travel

Fly Croatia Airlines, take photographs and win two air tickets. The winner will receive 2 Croatia Airlines international round trip tickets.

Why do you love to travel ? Be creative. In one sentence and a single photograph express why you love to travel. Selection of the most original photograph will be made by the Croatia Airlines Promotion Department and the photograph will be published in the next issue of our inflight magazine. You should send us your B/W or color photographs and/or slides by 10th February 2013 to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Promotion Department, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, Croatia. Do not forget to include the coupon from the page bottom.

" Mr.

Mrs.

Miss.

NAME SURNAME DATE OF BIRTH ADDRESS POSTAL CODE CITY COUNTRY TEL. NO. E-MAIL Conditions for participation: - photographs become the property of Croatia Airlines - Croatia Airlines does not assume any responsibility in case of the possible loss of the material - Croatia Airlines reserves the right to use the material in the Croatia Airlines promotional activities and materials, without an additional payment. - reward cannot be exchanged for money - employees of Croatia Airlines as well as the members of their immediate families, are not allowed to participate

Miles & More Popunite i pošaljite / Complete and send off

Pristupnica − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia ili na fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 Enrolment − Online: miles-and-more.com/Croatia or by fax +49 - (0) 52 41 - 80 60 200 0HR01

Molimo da napišete samo jednu adresu velikim, štampanim slovima / Please state only one address in capital letters Ime / Titula / Oslovljavanje / First or given name Title Salutation g / Mr. Dr. Ga / Mrs. Prof. Ulica i broj, zgrada / Street and number, building

Poštanski broj / Postcode

Datum roenja (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of birth (dd/mm/yyyy)

Prezime / Family name

Poštanski pretinac / PO Box

Grad / Town

Država / Country

Odjel (nije obavezno) / Department (optional)

Molimo Vas da unesete naziv kompanije (nije obavezno) / Please enter name of company here (optional)

E-mail-adresa (Molimo Vas da popunite ovo polje) / E-mail address (Please enter your e-mail address and check/mark the box below to receive account information via the Miles & More online newsletter!) Telefon / Telephone

Broj mobitela / Mobile number

Molimo Vas da velikim štampanim slovima popunite polja podacima o svom trenutnom letu / Please fill in your current flight details in capital letters Broj karte, etix®, ETKT (npr. 220 3000000474) / Ticket number, etix®, ETKT (e.g. 220 3000000474)

Br. leta (npr. LH 180) / Flight No. (e.g. LH 180)

Datum odlaska (dd/mm/gggg) / Date of departure (dd/mm/yyyy)

Ruta (npr. Frankfurt–Paris) / Route (e.g. Frankfurt–Paris)

Osoban odabir naËina komunikacije* / Personal communication preferences* Æelim primati sljedeÊe i slažem se da se moji osobni podaci koriste za: / I would like to receive the following communication and agree to the usage of my personal data for communication: Miles & More Online Newsletter/ Miles & More Online Newsletter

Miles & More ponude posebno za Vas / Miles & More offers especially for you

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Informacije o proizvodima Lufthanse i ostalim Miles & More avio partnerima / Product information about Lufthansa and the Miles & More airline partners

e-mail / e-mail pošta / postal

Podaci o Vašem Miles & More raËunu i Miles & More newsletter mogu jedino biti poslani elektroniËkom poštom. NeÊete ih primiti poštom; bilo kako bilo, svoj raËun milja u bilo koje vrijeme možete vidjeti na miles-and-more.com / Miles & More account information is only sent via the Miles & More online newsletter. There is no separate mailing.; however, you can view your mileage account anytime at miles-and-more.com.

Odabirem jezik za komunikaciju / Preferred correspondence language:

NjemaËki / German

Engleski / English

Ovisno o državi koja se prikazuje u Vašoj adresi, moguÊe je da Êete moÊi odabrati jezik od njih nekoliko dodatnih. Jezik korespondencije može varirati ovisno o mediju. Kako biste provjerili svoj raËun ili ažurirali svoj profil, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com/myprofile. / Based on the country shown in your address, additional languages may be available for you to choose from. The language of correspondence may vary depending on the medium. To check your account status or to update your profile, please visit miles-and-more.com/myprofile. Sudjelovanje u frequent flyer progamu Miles and More je podložno Pravilima i Uvjetima. Kako biste proËitali trenutna Pravila i Uvjete, molimo posjetite miles-and-more.com. Registracija u Miles & More programu je besplatna. / Participation in the Miles & More frequent flyer program is subject to the Terms & Conditions. To read the current Terms & Conditions, please visit miles-and-more.com. Registration in the Miles & More program is free of charge. * Imate pravo bilo kad povuÊi svoj pristanak, djelomiËno ili u cijelosti, tako da ažurirate svoj Miles & More profil online ili da nazovete Miles & More Servisni Centar na broj: 062 220 220 ili +49-69-66 10 23 30 10. Vaši dodatni komentari, za koje ne postoji predvien prostor, neÊe biti uzeti u obzir. / You have the right to revoke your consent at any time, inwhole or in part, by updating your Miles & More profile online or by calling the Miles & More Service Center at +49 - 69 - 66 10 23 30 10. Unfortunately all supplementary notes can not be considered.

Datum / Date

Potpis / Signature

Jednostavno je prijaviti se za Ëlanstvo: • preko interneta na web stranici www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • poπtom • telefaksom na broj +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200 • kod osoblja u zrakoplovu Bit Êe nam zadovoljstvo ubiljeæiti Vam milje za trenutaËni let kao i za bilo koji drugi let koji ste ostvarili u posljednjih 6 mjeseci s Croatia Airlinesom, kompanijom Lufthansa ili nekim drugim partnerom u programu. Molimo Vas da gore unesete podatke o trenutaËnom letu. Retroaktivno ubiljeæavanje milja za druge letove moæete zatraæiti na stranici www.miles-and-more.com. Molimo Vas da uvijek Ëuvate originalnu kartu za ulazak u zrakoplov (boarding pass) i kopiju putne karte dok Vam se milje ne ubiljeæe na raËun.

It’s so easy to register: • Online at www.miles-and-more.com/croatia • By fax +49 - 52 41 - 80 60 200

• By post • With one of your flight attendants

We will be happy to credit your account with the miles for this flight and for any other flights taken in the last 6 months with Croatia Airlines, Lufthansa or another Miles & More partner. Enter your current flight above. To have the miles for the other flights credited to your account, go to www.miles-and-more.com. Please retain your original boarding card and passenger receipt (copy of your ticket) until the miles have been credited to your account.

Razred putovanja/ Service class

Klasa knjiæenja/ Booking class

Miles & More – veÊ sad poËnite prikupljati milje

Broj leta/

Flight number

Broj karte/

Miles & More – start collecting miles now

Document number

LUFTPOST

Prostor za marku.

PAR AVION PRIORITAIRE

Please affix stamp here.

RÉPONSE PUBLICITAIRE/ANTWORT ALLEMAGNE Miles & More Postfach 14 34 33309 Gütersloh ALLEMAGNE

»im se poËnete koristiti svojom privremenom karticom Miles & More, milje Êe Vam se biljeæiti na raËun. Molimo Vas da pri svakoj rezervaciji navedete broj svoje kartice Miles & More. Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. Milje za danaπnji let bit Êe Vam ubiljeæene na raËun ako na prednju stranu unesete sve potrebne podatke o letu.

Ime/First name

Miles will start landing in your account immediately after you start to use your temporary Miles & More Card. Please remember to state your personal Miles & More number every time you make a reservation. You will receive your proper Miles & More Card once you have collected one mile.

Prezime/Surname

We will credit the miles for your current flight to your account once you have provided all the details of the current flight on the front.

Trajnu karticu dobit Êete poπto prikupite najmanje jednu milju na svom raËunu. We will send you your regular Miles & More Card as soon as you have earned one mile.

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Miles & More

Osnove Miles & More programa

Introducing Miles & More

Miles & More najveÊi je program nagraivanja putnika u Europi i nudi Ëlanovima ra zliËite moguÊnosti prikupljanja milja i koriπtenja nagrada, kao i mnoge privlaËne pogodnosti. »lanovi prikupljaju milje koristeÊi se uslugama brojnih par tnera u programu. Milje se biljeæe za letove svih Ëlanica Star Alliancea i drugih kompanija par tnera, ali i za unajmljivanje vozila, odsjedanje u hotelima ili potroπnju preko kreditnih kar tica Miles & More.

Miles & More is the greatest frequent ﬂyer programme in Europe offering its members numerous possibilities for collecting and redeeming miles, as well as many attractive privileges. Members collect miles by using the services of many partners in the programme. Miles are credited for ﬂights of all Star Alliance members and other airline partners, but also for renting vehicles from rent-a-car partners or staying in participating hotels.

Zatraæite svoju Diners Club Croatia Airlines kreditnu kar ticu! n 5 kuna = 1 milja - za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko ove kar tice, biljeæi vam se 1 nagradna milja n Dvostruke milje - osvajate za plaÊanje turistiË kih aranæmana i zrakoplovnih karata u Diners Club Travelu n Prikupljajte nagradne milje svuda - jed nostav no plaÊajte svojom Diners Club kar ticom na bilo kojemu od 12,000.000 DC prodajnih mjesta u zemlji i inozemstvu.

Apply for your Diners Club Croatia Airlines credit card! n 5 HRK = 1 mile - for every 5 HRK spent via this card, you collect 1 mile. n Earn double miles - for paying package tours and ﬂight tickets at Diners Club Travel n Collect award miles ever ywhere - simply pay with your Diners Club Card in any of 12 million DC ofﬁces in Croatia or abroad

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Osvojite joπ viπe milja - koriπtenje ostalih pogodnosti Diners Cluba poput besplatnih online usluga, e-plaÊanja ili trajnih naloga donosi vam dodatne milje. n 2 kar tice - 1 raËun Miles & More - koristite li se istodobno privatnom i poslovnom kar ticom Diners Cluba i Croatia Airlinesa, prikupljene nagradne milje zbrajaju se na vaπemu raËunu Miles & More.

Collect extra award miles - by using other Diners Club beneﬁts, such as free online services, internet banking and e-paying, standing orders etc. n 2 credit cards - 1 Miles & More membership account - use your private and business card to collect award miles on the same membership account.

Zatražite svoju kreditnu karticu VISA Croatia Airlines! Croatia Airlines i Erste Card Club objavili su, osim companion kreditnih karica (poslovnih i privatnih), i VISA Croatia Airlines samostalnu karticu, poslovnu i privatnu. Potroπnja od 14 kuna na samostalnim karticama donosi 1 nagradnu milju Miles & More, a za potroπenih 7 kuna u inozemstvu dobiva se preko kartica u paru 1 nagradna milja Miles & More.

Apply for your VISA Croatia Airlines credit card! Croatia Airlines and Erste Card Club have issued, besides a companion credit card (both business and private), a VISA Croatia Airlines stand-alone credit card, both business and private. You will get 1 Miles & More award mile for every 14 kuna spent via stand-alone credit cards whereas for every 7 kuna spent abroad via companion credit cards 1 Miles & More award mile will be credited to your account.

Zatra æite svoju kreditnu kar ticu Croatia Airlines American Express! n 4 kune = 1 nagradna milja - za svake 4 kune potroπene preko Premium kar tice biljeæi se 1 nagradna milja, odnosno za svakih 5 kuna potroπenih preko Standard kar tice n 2500 milja dobrodoπlice - za nove osnovne Premium korisnike i 1250 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Premium korisnike n 1500 milja dobrodoπlice za nove osnovne Standard korisnike i 750 milja dobrodoπlice za nove dodatne Standard korisnike n Dvostruke nagradne milje - za potroπnju u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i Jumbo Travel Ser vices PBZ Carda n UËlanjenje u Priority Pass bez naknade te pristup u viπe od 450 VIP salona u zraËnim lukama

Apply for your Croatia Airlines American Express credit card! n 4 HRK = 1 award mile - for every 4 HRK spent via Premium card, you collect 1 award mile, and for every 5 HRK spent via Standard card you collect 1 mile. n 2.500 welcome miles - for new basic Premium card users and 1.250 welcome miles for new additional Premium card users. n 1.500 welcome miles - for new basic Standard card users and 750 welcome miles for new additional Standard card users. n Earn double award miles - using the card to pay for travels at Croatia Airlines sales ofﬁces and Jumbo Travel Services of PBZ Card. n Free Priority Pass enrollment- it enables you to access into more than 450 VIP airport lounges

Razredi Ëlanstva i pogodnosti Koriπtenjem usluga par tnera u programu prikupljate nagradne milje koje zamjenjujete za nagrade i statusne milje koje odreuju vaπ Ëlanski status i pogodnosti πto ih ostvarujete. Statusne milje prikupljaju se redovitim letovima sljedeÊih zrakoplovnih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Luf thansa Regional i Luf thansa Private Jet), SWISS i svi zrakoplovni par tneri iz mreæe Star Alliance, Air Dolomiti i Luxair. Svaka tako ostvarena milja biljeæi se i kao statusna i kao nagradna milja. Milje HON Circle statusne su milje koje se prikupljaju letovima sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Air ways, Austrian Air lines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Luf thansa (ukljuËujuÊi Luf thansa Regional i Luf thansa Private Jet), Luxair i Swiss International Airlines. Uz 35.000 statusnih milja prikupljenih u jednoj kalendarskoj godini, steÊi Êete status Frequent Traveller, a za 100.000 statusnih milja u kalendarskoj godini oËe ku je vas status Se nator. »la novi koji priku pe najmanje 600.000 HON Circle milja u ra zdoblju od dvije uzastopne kalendarske godine, stjeËu status HON Circle.

Tiers and benefits By using the Miles & More partners’ services members collect award miles, which are traded in for awards; and status miles, which determine a member’s membership status and privileges. Status miles can be accrued on scheduled flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, all Star Alliance partners, Air Dolomiti and Luxair. Every mile accrued is recorded as both a status and an award mile. HON Circle miles are status miles that you collect on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Austrian Airlines, Air Dolomiti, Brussels Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), Luxair and Swiss International Airlines. With 35,000 status miles collected in one calendar year members earn the Frequent Traveller status, with 100,000 status miles the Senator status, and members who collect at least 600,000 HON Circle miles within two consecutive calendar years, earn the HON Circle status.

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Pogodnosti statusa Frequent Traveller - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja na zaista prijeeni ili standardni iznos za letove sljedeÊih kompanija: Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (ukljuËujuÊi Lufthansa Regional i Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair i Continental. - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - uporaba Lufthansa Business Class Loungea prilikom letova s nekom od Ëlanica Star Alliancea - prednost na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru poslovnog razreda - 40 kg prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji Ako je rijeË o komadnom prijevozu prtljage, 2 komada u ekonomskom ili poslovnom razredu, a 3 u prvom razredu putovanja

Frequent Traveller privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent on the actual flown miles or standard mileage amounts on flights operated by Croatia Airlines, Adria Airways, Air Canada, Air Dolomiti, Austrian Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa (including Lufthansa Regional and Lufthansa Private Jet), SWISS, US Airways, United, Brussels Airlines, Luxair and Continental. - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - Use of the Lufthansa Business Class Lounges while flying with a Star Alliance Member - Waiting list priority - Check-in at the Lufthansa Business Class counter - Free baggage allowance of 40 kg depending on the destination and the airline If piece concept is applicable 2 bags in total (Economy or Business) and 3 bags in the First Class

Pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus - 25 posto milja - neograniËena valjanost nagradnih milja za trajanja statusa - predujam od 50.000 milja - uporaba Lufthansa Senator Lounge te Star Gold Lounge partnera u Star Allianceu - viπi prioritet na listi Ëekanja - prijava za let (check in) na πalteru prvog razreda - osigurano mjesto na letu za rezervacije do 48 sati odnosno do 72 sata unaprijed, ovisno o razredu putovanja - 50 posto manje milja za suputnika na nagradnom letu, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dodatnih 20 kg ili dodatni komad prtljage bez naplate, ovisno o odredištu i zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu - dva elektroniËka vauËera za premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), te joπ dva za svako zadræavanje statusa - Senator Premium Award

Senator privileges - Executive Bonus of 25 per cent - Accrued award miles have no expiry date - 50,000 miles in advance - Access to the Lufthansa Senator Lounge as well as to the Star Gold Lounges of Star Alliance partners - High waiting list priority - First Class check-in - Booking guarantee up to 48 or 72 hours in advance depending on the booking class - A 50 per cent mile age discount for an accompanying per son on ﬂ ig ht awar ds depending on the airline - Ad di ti o nal 20 kg bag ga ge al lowan ce or an addi ti o nal bag depending on the destination and the airline - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class - 2 electronic upgrade vouchers and two more for every status retention - Senator Premium Award

Pogodnosti statusa HON Circle - sve pogodnosti statusa Senator - Executive Bonus od 25 posto - predujam od 100.000 milja - Status Senator za supruænika ili partnera, ovisno o zrakoplovnoj kompaniji - dva elektroniËka vauËera za premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), te dva prigodom zadræavanja statusa - dodatne pogodnosti koje nude partneri programa osiguravajuÊi jedinstveno iskustvo putovanja - komadni sistem prijevoza prtljage: 2 u ekonomskom, 3 u poslovnom i 4 u prvom razredu

HON Circle privileges - All existing Senator privileges - Executive bonus of 25 per cent - 100,000 miles in advance - Senator status for your spouse or partner depending on the airline - 2 electronic Upgrade Vouchers and 2 more for every status retention - Additional beneﬁts offered by Miles & More partners, rounding off the travel experience - Piece concept: 2 in Economy, 3 in Business and 4 in the First Class

Troπite milje Prikupljene nagradne milje zamjenjujete za mnoge nagrade: nagradne karte, premjeπtaj u viπi razred putovanja (upgrade), razliËite nagrade kojima se moæete koristiti pri putovanju (hotelski smjeπtaj, unajmljivanje vozila). Više informacija možete pronaÊi na: www.miles-and-more.com

Spend miles You can exchange collected award miles for awards prepared for you: award tickets, upgrades, various travel awards. You can ﬁnd more at: www.miles-and-more.com

DUBAI BARCELONA

MADRID LONDON

RIM

BEÂť

PARIS

TOKIO

SPLIT

NEW YORK

Svakom kupnjom bliĂŚe putovanju Croatia Airlines American ExpressÂŽ kreditna kartica najbolja kartica za prikupljanje Miles & More nagradnih milja. Â&#x2122;

) edigdÂZcZ `jcZ 2 & B^aZh BdgZ cV\gVYcV b^a_V*

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do 2.500 milja ddWgdYdÂa^XZ cV B^aZh BdgZ gVĂ&#x153;jc

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dvostruke milje za plaĂ&#x160;anja u poslovnicama Croatia Airlinesa i ejic^Ăˇ`d_ V\Zcciji PBZ Carda Jumbo Travel Services Saznajte viĹĄe na www.americanexpress.hr

SAMO U GRUPI PRIVREDNE BANKE ZAGREB

CROATIA AIRLINES

American ExpressÂŽ je zaĹĄtiÄ&#x2021;eni znak American Express Company. PBZ Card je ovlaĹĄteni izdavatelj American Express kartica u Hrvatskoj.

165

* Premium Croatia Airlines American Express kreditna kartica

U NA©EM ZRAKOPLOVU RED SJEDENJA Vaπe je sjedalo rezervirano samo za vas. Napuπtate li sjedalo tijekom leta, molimo da se prije svakog slijetanja vratite na sjedalo. RU»NA PRTLJAGA

PO©TOVANI PUTNICI! Vaπe zadovoljstvo naπa je prva i najvaænija zadaÊa. Stoga stalno nastojimo poboljπati naπe usluge u zrakoplovu i na zemlji. Osluπkujemo vaπe æelje preko anketa, pisama te vaπih pismenih i usmenih prijedloga i, vjerujte, uvijek ih smatramo dragocjenima. Znajte da nam je svaki vaπ prijedlog dobrodoπao, a svaka napomena vrlo vaæna. Piπite nam stoga na adresu uredniπtva: Croatia Airlines, Ëasopis Croatia, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, e-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr

Molimo proËitajte nekoliko uputa vaænih za vaπu sigurnost i udobnost tijekom putovanja. Raduje nas πto ste za let izabrali upravo zrakoplov naπe kompanije. Potrudit Êemo se da vam let protekne πto ugodnije.

Sva Ëekirana prtljaga mora imati putnikovo ime. Besplatne oznake za prtljagu mogu se dobiti u svim prodajnim uredima Croatia Airlinesa. Oznaku za prtljagu stavite i unutar prtljage. Sve vrijedne stvari i predmete nosite sa sobom u zrakoplov. Osobnu ruËnu prtljagu odloæite iznad svojeg sjedala ili ispod njega, tako da teæi komadi idu ispod, a lakπi iznad, a da istodobno ne smeta drugim putnicima i posadi zrakoplova. UPUTE ZA SIGURNOST Prije uzlijetanja zrakoplova osoblje Êe vam dati nekoliko uputa πto valja Ëiniti u sluËaju opasnosti. One se odnose na tip zrakoplova pa ih paæljivo prouËite. Prigodom uzlijetanja i slijetanja svi putnici, ukljuËujuÊi i djecu, moraju se vezati sigurnosnim pojasima. PreporuËujemo da zbog vaπe sigurnosti i udobnosti ostanete privezani tijekom cijelog leta. Pri slijetanju molimo da ostanete na svojim sjedalima sve dok se ne iskljuËi znak obvezatnog vezivanja. Prilikom ulaska u neke zemlje valja popuniti odreene obrasce. Oni su vam dostupni u aerodromskoj zgradi pri ulasku u zemlju. Kako bismo vam olakπali i ubrzali taj postupak, naπe Êe vam ih kabinsko osoblje rado podijeliti tijekom leta.

mogu se rabiti sve vrijeme: sluπni aparati, ugraeni medicinski aparati, elektroniËki satovi, elektroniËki stimulatori æivaca. ZABRANJENI PREDMETI Zakonom je zabranjeno noπenje opasnog materijala i u predanoj i u ruËnoj prtljazi. U takve se ubrajaju eksplozivi, lako zapaljive tekuÊine, radioaktivni materijali i otrovi, oruæje, stlaËeni plinovi, korozivna i oksidirajuÊa sredstva. USLUGA TIJEKOM LETA U zrakoplovu raspolaæemo razliËitim vrstama alkoholnih i bezalkoholnih piÊa, kojima Êe vas stjuardese posluæiti zajedno s jelom. Prigodom kupnje karte, ali svakako 24 sata unaprijed, moæete naruËiti specijalnu vrstu obroka (oznaka: SPML), kao npr. vegetarijanski, muslimanski, dijetalni, a kosher 48 sati unaprijed. Ako ste naruËili poseban obrok, molimo vas da o tome na vrijeme izvijestite osoblje. Putnicima nije dopušteno konzumiranje vlastitih alkoholnih piÊa. Osoblje zrakoplova neÊe posluæiti alkoholna piÊa alkoholiziranim putnicima. Prije slijetanja osoblje Êe ukloniti sve πalice i Ëaπe. Puπenje nije dopuπteno tijekom cijelog leta, a u toaletima postoje i detektori za dim, koji se aktiviraju u sluËaju puπenja. MEDICINSKA POMOΔ U zrakoplovu imamo priruËnu ljekarnu sa svim potrebnim lijekovima za prvu pomoÊ (s lijekovima protiv bolova, ﬂasterima i ostalim osnovnim medicinskim sredstvima). Za medicinsku pomoÊ obratite se kabinskom osoblju.

UPORABA TELEFONSKIH NAPRAVA UvaæavajuÊi svjetske zdravstvene i ekoloπke trendove, 1996. godine Croatia Airlines uveo je nepuπaËke letove na svim linijama. Zahvaljujemo vam πto se pridruæujete naπim nastojanjima da svijet bude zdraviji, ËiπÊi i ljepπi.

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Sadaπnje odredbe zabranjuju uporabu odreenih prenosivih elektroniËkih naprava tijekom komercijalnih letova, zbog moguÊnosti ometanja navigacijske i komunikacijske opreme. Na letovima Croatia Airlinesa zabranjena je uporaba ovih elektroniËkih naprava: prijenosnih telefona, komercijalnih dvovalnih prijenosnika (npr. walkie talkie); amaterskih prijenosnih ureaja; CB prijenosnih ureaja: prijenosnih ureaja koji emitiraju RF energiju na odreenoj frekvenciji, perifernih ureaja za raËunala ili igre. Ovi se ureaji mogu rabiti kad zrakoplov nije na pisti, uzletu, poËetnom penjanju, prilazu ili fazama slijetanja: osobna raËunala (periferni ureaji kao πto su πtampaËi, vanjski disc driveovi itd. nisu dopuπteni); osobna raËunala s igrama, VHF skenerski prijamnici; CD diskovi; kasetofoni, videorekorderi; kalkulatori. SljedeÊi ureaji

SKY - SHOP U avionu moæete kupiti bescarinsku robu. Roba se moæe platiti u sljedeÊim konvertibilnim valutama: euro, ameriËki dolar, funta, πvicarski franak i u nacionalnoj valuti kunama, te sljedeÊim karticama: Diners, Visa, American Express i EuroMaster Card. Zbog teæine aviona ili trenutaËnog nedostatka prostora ponuda moæe biti ograniËena, pa vas molimo da to uzmete u obzir. ■ DEAR PASSENGERS! Your satisfaction is our ﬁrst and foremost concern. That is why we are always striving to improve our services on board our aircraft and on the ground. We study your wishes by means of questionnaries, letters and spoken

ABOARD OUR AIRCRAFT suggestions, which, believe us are always given every consideration. The mentioned improvements are an answer to your requests. With every new timetable we try to adapt ourselves increasingly to your needs, as well as to improve the existing services. Each one of your suggestions is most welcome, and every comment carefully read and very important to us. So please do not hesitate to write to us to the following address: Croatia Airlines, Inflight Magazine, Bani 75b, Buzin, 10010 Zagreb, E-mail: pr@croatiaairlines.hr Please read the instructions below, impor-tant for your safety and comfort during the flight. We are happy that you have chosen Croatia Airlines for your flight and shall do our best to make it as pleasant as possible.

Some countries require that passengers complete a form on arrival. These forms are available at arrival terminals on entering the country. In order to facilitate this procedure, our cabin crew will be pleased to distribute such forms during the flight. USE OF ELECTRONIC DEVICES Current regulations prohibit the use of certain types of portable electronic devices (PFDs) on board commercial flights, due to potential interference with navigational and communications equipment. On Croatia Airlines’ flights it is prohibited to use the following electronic devices: cellular telephones,

ﬁrearms, compressed gases, corrosive products and oxidizers. SERVICE ON BOARD Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages are available on board and are served with your meal. If you wish to order a special kind of meal such as vegeterian, dietary etc., you can do so when buying your ticket but must be 24 hours in advance. Kosher meals should be ordered 48 hours in advance. Make sure that your ﬂight attendant is aware that you have ordered a special meal. Passengers are prohibited from consuming their own alcoholic beverages on board.

In accordance with health and environmental trends accepted throughout the world, Croatia Airlines introduced nonsmoking flights to all destinations in 1996. Thank you for joining our efforts in making the world a better, cleaner and healthier place to live in. SEAT ASSIGNMENT Your seat has been especially reserved for you. Should you leave your seat during the flight, please return to it before each landing. BAGGAGE All checked-in baggage must have the passen-ger’s name on the outside. Free identification cards are available at all OU ticket offices. We suggest that you place an identification tag inside your luggage as well. Carry all valuable and important items with you on the plane. Hand luggage must be stowed under the passenger seat or in the overhead compartment - heavy pieces below and lighter above the seat - in a way not to disturb other passengers or the cabin crew. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Prior to take-off the cabin crew will give you instructions regarding your safety and how to act in case of an emergency. The instrucions vary according to the type of the aircraft, so please pay attention to the flight attendant’s predeparture announcements and safety demonstrations. During take-off and landing all passengers, including children, are required to fasten their seat belts. For your safety and comfort, we recommend that you keep the safety belt fastened during the whole flight.

commercial two-way transmitters (e. g., walkie-talkies); amateur radio transmitters; Citizen Band (CB) transmitters; 49-MHz transmitters, devices designed to radiate RF energy on a speciﬁc frequency; peripheral devices for computers or computer games. The following devices may be used when the aircraft is not in the taxiing, take-off, initial climb, approach or landing phases: personal computers (cable-connected peripheral devices such as printers, external disc drives, etc. are not permitted); personal computer games, VHS scanner receivers; compact disc players; cassette tape players; video recorders; calculators. The following may be operated at all times: hearing aids, implanted medical devices, electronic watches, electronic nerve stimulators.

The cabin crew are instructed to discontinue ser-ving passengers who appear to be intoxicated. All cups and glasses will be removed from the passenger areas prior to take-off and landing. Smoking is not permitted on any of Croatia Airlines’ ﬂights. A fresh air vent and smoke detectors are located in toilletes and will be activated if smoking.

MEDICAL AID Painkillers, Band Aid and other essential medical items are kept on the aircraft. Ask your ﬂight attendant should you need any assistance.

SKY SHOP RESTRICTED ITEMS The law prohibits the transport of hazardous items in either checked-in or hand luggage. Such items are: explosives, ﬂammable liquids and solids, radioactive materials and poisons,

Duty free goods can be paid for in major currencies such as: Euro, US Dollar, British Pounds, Swiss Franks and national currency Kuna, whilst Diners, Visa, American Express and Euro-Master Card are also welcome. ■ CROATIA AIRLINES

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Shenzhen Airlines has joined Star Alliance. Giving you greater access to China, through Shenzhen, one of the fastest growing cities in the world. I would know, I helped build it. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve earned it.

Wang Shi, Chairman China Vanke Co Limited, the largest residential real estate developer in the Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Republic of China and Star Alliance Gold Status.

staralliance.com

FLOTA

FLEET Zrakoplovi Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 i Dash8 - Q400 tvore naπu flotu. Our fleet consists of Airbus A320-200, Airbus A319-100 and Dash8 - Q400 aircraft.

Specifikacije / Specifications

Airbus A320-200

Airbus A319-100

Dash8 - Q400

Raspon krila / Wing span (m/ft)

34,1 / 111

28,42 / 93,24

Duljina trupa / Fuselage length (m/ft)

37,6 / 123

33,84 / 111

32,83 / 107,71

NajveÊa dopuπtena teæina u polijetanju / Maximum take off weight (kg)

73 500

70 000

29 257

NajveÊa visina leta / Maximum cruising altitude (m/ft)

11 920 / 39 100

11 900 / 39 000

7620 / 25 000

Povrπina krila / Wing area (m /ft )

122,40 / 1318

63,08 / 679

NajveÊa letna brzina / Maximum cruising speed (km/h)

834 (450 KTS)

667 (360 KTS)

Pogonska grupa / Power-plants

motori / engines x 2 CFM 56

motori / engines x 2 PW 150A

Broj zrakoplova u floti / Number of aircraft in fleet

Broj sjedala / Number of seats

162/164

144

Airbus 320-200 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Airbus 319-100 Jedan od najsuvremenijih putniËkih zrakoplova srednjeg doleta u svijetu. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern midrange aircraft in the world. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking.

Dash 8-Q400 Jedan od najsuvremenijih turbopropelerskih zrakoplova kratkog doleta kanadske proizvodnje. Raspored poslovnoga i ekonomskog razreda razlikuje se od jednoga do drugog leta.

One of the most modern turbo-prop short range aircraft, manufactured by Canadian manufacturer. Flexible cabin layout, the ratio of business to economy class seating depends on actual booking. CROATIA AIRLINES

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CROATIA AIRLINES

A MAP OF DESTINATIONS

USA CHARLOTTE NEW YORK PHILADELPHIA WASHINGTON

BERGEN

St. Petersburg STAVANGER

Aberdeen Edinburg Belfast Dublin

Manchester

VILNIUS GDANSK

POZNAN

Chisinau Lyon

Turin

Porto

Venice

Genoa Madrid

Rijeka

Osijek Belgrade

Bucharest

BraË Barcelona

Bari

Palermo Catania

Athens

Tel Aviv

Q linije Croatia Airlinesa / Croatia Airlines’ services

Q u suradnji sa stranim zrakoplovnim kompanijama

in cooperation with partner airline

Partneri / Partners:

Brussels Airlines

US Airways CROATIA AIRLINES

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...will warm your hearts during the holidays!

ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD 172

CROATIA AIRLINES

www.zagreb-touristinfo.hr

ZRA»NA LUKA ZAGREB

ZAGREB AIRPORT

Gates 11-21 Izlazi 11-21

International Arrivals & Departures Meunarodni dolasci i odlasci

2 Gates 1-7 Izlazi 1-7

Domestic Arrivals & Departures DomaÊi dolasci i odlasci

Accessible to passengers only/ Samo za putnike

C A

Accessible for all/ Dostupno posjetiteljima

P C

Check-in “A” Registracija putnika “A” Check-in “B” Registracija putnika “B”

B S B

Parking Area/ Parkiraliπte

TAKSI BUS

CROATIA AIRLINES Ticket Counter and Welcome Service Prodaja karata i Sluæba za skrb o putnicima

Business Class Lounge Zrinjevac Prostorije poslovnog razreda Zrinjevac

V.I.P. Salon, Conference Room Salon za konferencije

Diners Club Business Class Lounge Prostorije poslovnog razreda Diners Cluba

Restaurant Faust VranËiÊ

Panoramic View Panoramski pogled

Rent-a-Car Offices Najam automobila

Restaurant, Self-Service Restaurant Restauracija, samoposluæivaonica

Bank, Exchange Office Banka, mjenjaËnica

Coffee Bar Kavana

Flight Information Informacije o letovima

Customs Control Carinska kontrola

Bar

Tourist Information TuristiËke informacije

Duty Free Shop Bescarinska trgovina

Post Office, Telephone, Fax HPT (poπta, telefon, faks)

Newstand Novinarnica

Baggage Prtljaga

Passport Control Kontrola putovnica

Shops Prodavaonice

Prijevoz iz grada u zraËnu luku i pristojba Prijevoz iz grada (s terminala) u zraËnu luku u veÊini je gradova u svijetu dobro organiziran. Cijena tog prijevoza nije uraËunana u cijenu leta.

AUTOBUSI do zraËnih luka / AIRPORT BUSES

Ground Transportation and Passenger Service and Charges In most cities of the world, transportation between the city terminal and airport is well organized. The fare for such transportation is not included in the amount paid for the air ticket.

5.00 9.00 13.30 17.30

U DUBROVNIKU autobusi za zraËnu luku polaze 90 minuta prije polijetanja zrakoplova, a u ZADRU 75 minuta prije leta. Autobusi iz zraËnih luka prema gradu polaze ubrzo nakon slijetanja zrakoplova.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana iz ZraËne luke Zagreb prema gradskom terminalu (Autobusni kolodvor): Departures daily from the Airport to the Town Terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb): 7.00 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.30 10.30 11.30 12.00 12.30 13.00 13.30 14.00 14.30 15.00 15.30 16.00 16.30 17.00 17.30 18.00 18.30 19.00 19.30 20.00

In DUBROVNIK airport buses leave 90 minutes before the ﬂight, and in ZADAR 75 minutes before the ﬂight. The buses from the airports leave shortly after the aircraft’s landing. Kombi RIJEKA (ispred Autotroleja na JelaËiÊevu trgu) - Zagreb (zraËna luka) - Polazak u 5 sati. Kombi Zagreb (zraËna luka) Rijeka - Polazak u 15.30 sati.

Minibus service from RIJEKA (in front of the Autotrolej at JelaËiÊ Square) - Zagreb Airport - Departure at 5.00. Minibus service from Zagreb Airport - Rijeka - Departure at 15.30.

ZAGREB - Polasci svakog dana s gradskog terminala (Autobusni kolodvor) prema ZraËnoj luci Zagreb: Departures daily from the Town terminal (Main Bus Station, DræiÊeva St. bb) to the Airport Zagreb: 5.30 10.00 14.00 18.00

6.00 10.30 14.30 18.30

6.30 11.00 15.00 19.00

7.00 11.30 15.30 19.30

7.30 12.00 16.00 20.00

8.00 12.30 16.30

8.30 13.00 17.00

Informacije o polascima autobusa / Bus departure information: Zagreb tel. (01) 6331-982, Split tel. (021) 203-119, Rijeka tel. (051) 330-207, 336-757, 098 472-539, Dubrovnik tel. (020) 773-377, 772-232, Zadar tel. (023) 250-094 www.plesoprijevoz.hr Cijena jednosmjerne karte u Zadru iznosi 25 kn, u Zagrebu 30 kn, a u Dubrovniku 35 kn. The price of a one-way ticket in Zadar is 25 Kunas, in Zagreb is 30 Kunas and in Dubrovnik 35 Kunas. Autobusi iz ZAGREBA polaze sat i pol prije domaÊih letova te dva sata prije meunarodnih letova. Bus departures in ZAGREB are an hour and a half prior for domestic ﬂights and two hours prior for international ﬂights.

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Marin Moæenik

Zahvaljujemo svim sudionicima naπeg nagradnog natjeËaja i pozivamo vas da nam se pridruæite i u sljedeÊem broju. Pred nama je zima, bajkovito godiπnje doba pogodno za prekrasne fotografije. Poπaljite nam svoje fotografije uz jednu reËenicu u kojoj objaπnjavate zaπto volite putovati i sudjelujte u naπemu nagradnom natjeËaju. Glavna su nagrada dvije povratne zrakoplovne karte Croatia Airlinesa za odrediπte po vaπem izboru. Još dva sudionika nagraujemo poklon-paketima. Autoricu fotografije Maju ©eat odabrali smo kao najbolju u ovome broju te je nagraujemo dvjema povratnim zrakoplovnim kartama Croatia Airlinesa. Promotivnim poklon paketom nagradit Êemo Anelu SalapiÊ i Marina Moæenika. Dear passengers,

Helena Ugrina

We would like to thank all the participants in our photo contest and invite you to join us again in the next issue. Winter, a fairytale-like season suitable for wonderful photographs, is ahead of us. Take part in our contest by sending us your photographs accompanied by a sentence which explains why you like travelling. We will award the ﬁrst prize winner with two return tickets on Croatia Airlines to a destination of your choice. Another two participants will receive promotional packages. We have selected Maja ©eat as the author of the best photo in this issue; she is the winner of two Croatia Airlines return air tickets. Anela SalapiÊ and Marin Moæenik have won our promotional packages. We would like to encourage you to continue sending us your photos because valuable awards await you in the next issue as well.

OsjeÊaj koji se nikad ne zaboravlja. Kao prva ljubav. A feeling you will never forget. Like your ﬁrst love.

Mia Russell

Volim putovati jer me uvijek zanima πto se nalazi iza sljedeÊeg ugla. I love to travel because I am always curios about what is around the next corner.

Volim putovati ne da bih pobjegla od æivota, nego da æivot ne pobjegne meni. I love travelling, not to run away from life but to avoid life running away from me.

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Jenny Kissane

Maja KuhariÊ

Putovanje vas potiËe da vidite nove horizonte i doæivite lude avanture. Travelling encourages seeing new horizons and having crazy adventures.

Ana Lah

Anela SalapiÊ

WHY DO YOU LOVE TO TRAVEL?

Nemoj se bojati odletjeti. Don’t be afraid to ﬂy away.

Putujem, dakle jesam. I travel; therefore I am.

Vladimir Urban

Tatjana Voskresensky

Volim putovati jer putovanja omoguÊuju da svijet oko sebe spoznam iz novih perspektiva. I love to travel because it enables me to see the world around me from new perspectives.

Volim putovati jer putovanjem otvaram prozor u svijet. I love travelling because with travels I open the window to the world.

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ADRESE Direkcija / Head office Bani 75b, 10 010 Buzin, Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 616-00-66 Fax (+385-1) 616-01-53 E-mail adrese / E-mail addresses President’s Office/ugd@croatiaairlines.hr Public Relations/pr@croatiaairlines.hr Marketing/advertising@croatiaairlines.hr Customer Relations/customer.rel@croatiaairlines.hr Sales/sales@croatiaairlines.hr Cargo/cargo@croatiaairlines.hr Kontakt centar / Contact Center 062-500 505 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Tel. (+385-1) 66 76 555 *500 za pozive iz mobilne mreže Hrvatske pon - pet/Mon - Fri 08:00 - 20:00 sub, ned, praznik / Sat, Sun, Holiday 09:00 - 18:00 contact@croatiaairlines.hr Sluæba za korisnike / Customer Relations Dept. Fax (+385-1) 616-01-52 Miles & More kontakt centar / Miles & More Service Team 062 220 220 samo za pozive iz Hrvatske Brojevi telefonskog check-ina / Telephone check-in Dubrovnik 020-77 31 71 Pula 052-53 01 05 Split 021-20 31 83 Zagreb 01-456 21 05 PutniËka prodaja / Passengers sales Fax (+385-1) 61-60-270 BerislaviÊeva 1, 10 000 Zagreb Informacije o prijevozu robe / Cargo information office Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-573 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-575 Obzor putovanja / Obzor Holidays Ltd Tel. (+385-1) 487 31 68, 487 31 69, 481 96 38 Poslovnice / Town and airport offices Identifikacijski kod poslovnica u Hrvatskoj je/ Identification code for offices in Croatia is: HR-B-01-080037012 Amsterdam WTC, Tower B, Level 4, Schiphol Boulevard 207, 1118 BH Luchthaven Schiphol Tel. (+31-20) 316-42-80 Fax (+31-20) 316-42-81 amsto@croatiaairlines.hr BeË / Wien Airport Office Objekt / Building 645, Room 115-116, A-1300 Wien Flughafen Tel. (+43-1) 7007 359-62 Fax (+43-1) 7007 359-63 vieap@croatiaairlines.hr Bruxelles Brussels Airport Box 31, 1930 Zaventem Airport office: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5133 Airport counter: Tel. (+32-2) 753-5132 Fax (+32-2) 753-5130 bruap@croatiaairlines.hr Dubrovnik ZraËna luka, Airport Dubrovnik 20 213 »ilipi, Dubrovnik Tel. (+385-20) 773-232 Fax (+385-20) 772-240 dbvap@croatiaairlines.hr Frankfurt Schillerstrasse 42-44, 60 313 Frankfurt, Tel. (+49-69) 92-00-520 Fax (+49-69) 92-00-52-51 frato@croatiaairlines.hr London Concorde North Wing Gatwick Airport Rooms 330/331A West Sussex RH6 0DW Tel. (+44-20) 8563-00-22, 0844 3710 310 (UK only) Fax (+44-20) 8563-2615

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ADDRESSES Airport Heathrow, Room 531, Terminal 1, Zone H Hounslow, Middlesex, TW6 1JZ Tel. (+44-20) 8745-46-83 Fax (+44-20) 8754-73-77 lonto@croatiaairlines.hr München Flughafen Franz Josef-Strauss, Terminal 2, Verwaltungsgebäude Nord Büro B.4.1322, 85 356 München, Tel. (+49-89) 97-592-730/731 Fax (+49-89) 97-592-736 mucap@croatiaairlines.hr Paris Roissypôle, Le Dôme 1, 3th ﬂoor Rue de la Haye BP 18913 Tremblay en France 95731 ROISSY CDG CEDEX Tel. (+33-1) 48-16-4000 Fax (+33-1) 48-16-5511 parto@croatiaairlines.hr Pula ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-52) 218-909 (+385-52) 218-943 Fax (+385-52) 211-998 puyap@croatiaairlines.hr Rijeka JelaËiÊev trg br. 5, 51 000 Rijeka, Tel. (+385-51) 330-207, 336-757 Fax (+385-51) 335-931 rjkto@croatiaairlines.hr Rim / Roma ZraËna luka, Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci Torre Ufﬁci 2, Room 518 00054 Fiumicino Tel. (+39-06) 5421-0021 Fax (+39-06) 5923-792 romto@croatiaairlines.hr Sarajevo ZraËna luka Sarajevo, Airport Khurta Schorka 36, 71 210 Sarajevo, Tel. (+387-33) 789-600 Fax (+387-33) 789-602 sjjto@croatiaairlines.hr Skoplje ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+389-2) 3148-390, 2561 850 Fax (+389-2) 2520-921 skpap@croatiaairlines.hr Split Obala hrv. nar. preporoda 9, 21 000 Split, Tel. (+385-21) 362-997, 362-055 (komercijala) Fax (+385-21) 362-567 sputo@croatiaairlines.hr ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-21) 203-305, 895-298 Fax (+385-21) 203-125 spuap@croatiaairlines.hr Zadar ZraËna luka, Airport Tel. (+385-23) 250-101 Fax (+385-23) 250-109 zadap@croatiaairlines.hr Zagreb Zrinjevac 17, 10 000 Zagreb, Tel. (+385-1) 48-19-633 Fax (+385-1) 48-19-632 ZraËna luka Zagreb, Zagreb Airport, 10 150 Zagreb, Pleso Tel. (+385-1) 61-64-581 Fax (+385-1) 61-64-585 posl.zrinjevac@croatiaairlines.hr Zürich Limmatquai 138, 8001 Zürich, Tel. (+41-44) 261-08-40 Fax (+41-44) 261-08-83 zrhto@croatiaairlines.hr

Prodajni zastupnici / Sales agents Europa / Europe Crna Gora / OKI AIR MONTENEGRO d.o.o. Ivana VujoševiÊa 46, 81 000 Podgorica Montenegro Tel. (+382-20) 201-201 Tel./Fax (+382-20) 241-154 »eπka CK Blue Sky Travel Na Perštýne 1, 11 000 Praha 1 Tel. (+420-2) 2222-2235 Fax (+420-2) 2222-0237 GrËka / Intermodal Air 25, Filellinon Str. 105 57 Athens, Greece Tel. (+30-210) 32-17-679, 32-17-750 Fax (+30-210) 32-49-152 Kosovo Airtour Head Office: St. Luan Haradinaj #27 10031 Prishtina, Kosovo Tel. (+381-38) 233-833 Fax (+381-38) 245-845 Airport Office: Prishtina International Airport Tel. (+381-38) 594-111 Fax (+381-38) 594-222 Portugal / Global Portugal Representacoes (GRT) Rua Castilho, N˚ 5 − 1˚ andar, Sala 18 1250-066 Lisboa, Portugal Tel. (+351-21) 351-2982 Fax (+351-21) 351-2988 SlovaËka / CK Blue Sky Travel 1. poschodie, Rajska 15, 811 08 Bratislava Tel. (+421) 5262 2375 Španjolska / Global Representacion Turistica (GRT) c/Valencia, 266, 4/1a 08007 Barcelona Tel. (+34-934) 875-775 Fax (+34-934) 880-121 Turska / ZENITH Services Head Office: Ordu Caddesi, No. 206/1, Laleli 34134 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 513-2667 Fax (+90-212) 512-4234 Airport Office: Istanbul Ataturk Airport International Terminal Departure Floor Yesilkoy 34149 Istanbul Tel. (+90-212) 465-50-23, 465-40-92 Fax (+90-212) 465-40-92 Bliski istok / Izrael Biaf Aviation Services Ltd 1 Ben Yehuda St., Migdalor blgd. 12th Floor, Tel Aviv 63802 Tel. (+972-3) 516-7181, 516-7140 Fax (+972-3) 516-7174 SAD / USA Networld Inc. / Croatia America 300 Lanidex Plaza, Parsippany NJ 07054, Tel. (+1-973) 884-3401 Fax (+1-973) 428-3929 Toll free 888-462-7628 Australija / Australia Sky Air Services 7/24 Albert Road, Sth. Melbourne Vic. 3205, Tel. (+61-3) 9699-9355 Fax (+61-3) 9699-9388 Novi Zeland / New Zealand Croatia Times Limited Ltd. NZ PO Box 104-056; Lincoln North, Suite, 1/182 Lincoln Road, Henderson, Auckland, NZ Tel. (+64-9) 837-9897 Fax (+64-9) 837-9898 Japan Air System Inc. Toranomon TBL Blgd., 8F 1-19-9, Toranomon Minato-ku Tokyo 105-0001 Japan Tel. (+81-3) 3593-6740 Fax (+81-3) 3593-6534

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