EM - Profumeria Selettiva 2-19

export.magazine@mteedizioni.it

THE INTERNET GUIDE TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY WORLDWIDE

exportmagazine.net

I N T E R N E T

N. 2 / 2019 - bimestrale - mte Edizioni s.r.l. - Via r. gessi 28 - 20146 Milano - Tariffa R.O.C.: Poste Italiane s.p.a.

Spedizione in abbonamento Postale - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n. 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB - Modena - €7 In caso di mancato recapito inviare al CPO MODENA per la restituzione previo pagamento resi. - CONTIENE SUPPLEMENTO

YO U R B U S I N E S S PA RT N E R F O R D O M E S T I C & D U T Y F R E E M A R K E T S WO R L D W I D E

I

is a brand of H.S.A. S.p.A, II GUUDCURE www.hsacosmetics.com - made in italy

THE HEALTHY AGEING AND CLEAN BEAUTY SKIN CARE BRAND A natural and healthy ageing process and the use of “clean” products, with ingredients that pose no hazard to human health nor the environment, makes GUUDCURE the good care for skin.

POLLUTION FREE The complete anti-pollution range with Zeolite protecting the skin from polluting agents and impurities with a preventive anti-ageing action.

AGE BALANCE

The latest generation anti-ageing skincare system with a double action: rebalancing the skin thanks to pre and probiotics that prevent ageing, and correcting particular skin damages with targeted active ingredients.

COSMOPACK Bologna – 14-17 March / BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST Dubai – 15-17 April Discover the complete range on guudcure.com or shop.guudcure.com

1

Advertisers’ index 8

On the cover: ARTDECO, Germany’s no. 1 make-up brand

N. 2 ANNO XXXVIX MARCH / APRIL 2019 MARZO / APRILE 2019 BIMONTHLY CONTIENE SUPPLEMENTO DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE GIUSEPPE TIRABASSO Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Milano n. 85 del 16/02/1991 Spedizione in abbonamento postale 45% art. 2 comma 20/B Legge 662/96 Poste Italiane Filiale di Modena - Italy - Tassa riscossa Taxe Perçue - aut. fil. E.P.I. Modena Printing: Formagrafica s.r.l. - Carpi (MO) Art Director Teresa Tibaldi Published by M.T.E. EDIZIONI srl Via Romolo Gessi, 28 20146 MILANO Italy Tel. 02/48.95.23.05 Telefax 02/41.23.405 E-mail: mteedizi@mteedizioni.it Managing Editor Giuseppe Tirabasso Editor-in-chief Claudia Stagno E-mail: export.magazine@mteedizioni.it Consultants Annalisa Aita - Judy Bloom Francesca Bonelli - Roberto Cimarosa Valerie Kaminov - Rebecca Lazzari Joan Rundo - Simona Verga Catherine Wrenn P.R. Promotion Italy: M.T.E. Edizioni

2

COMPANY Transvital

16

Notebook

20

Nouba

24

Divage

42

Rebis

14 44-45 52 54 56-57 58 68 70-72 74

EVENTS Vivaness Cosmoprof Bologna Wabel Summit ADF & PCD Paris Beauty Istanbul Makeup In Sustainable Cosmetics Summit China Beauty Expo Beauty Eurasia

12

INTERVIEW Astra makeup: S. Settimi

28

Farmeco: A. Kostarelos

34-35

Confalonieri Matite: L. Confalonieri

63/65

Giovanni Raspini: G. Raspini

66-67

Cosmetics News: E. Indikov

76

M:Plus Cosmetics: M. Magliocco

10 18 26

LAUNCH Fila Franck Olivier - Bella Luigi Borrelli Napoli

46/48 60/62 78/80

REPORT BeautyStreams: Emphatic luxury Valérie Kaminov: Indie Beauty Valérie Kaminov: China’s E-Commerce

Amo Ferragamo Artdeco Astra make-up Beauty Eurasia Beauty Istanbul Beautyworld Japan Beautyworld Middle East BeautyStreams CBE - China Beauty Expo Collistar Confalonieri Matite Cosmetech Cosmobeauté Cosmofarma Cosmoprof India Cosmoprof North America Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Esxence Farmeco Fila Franck Olivier Guudcure HSA Intercharm Moscow LuxePack Luigi Borrelli Napoli MANE M:Plus Cosmetics Makeup In Paris Nouba Packaging Première Parfums Pergolèse Paris Rebis Transvital UP Beauty by Wabel Wabel Summit

2-3 Cover IV-13-15 75 55 82 81 49 69 3 33 73 83 30 20 21 19 84 4-5 11 17 II-1 36-37 50 32 27 31 71 59 21 51 41 43 9 III 53

3

4

5

6

7

COMPANY

TRANSVITAL Science, Quality, Reliability These are the fundamental values of Transvital, cosmetic treatment lines that offer real solutions to every skin problem.

The brand is the result of Swiss research into cosmetics and tradition, and the genius and insight of the physician/researcher, Dr Jean Thomas, after the worldwide success of his research into the treatment of degenerative skin diseases.

His legacy is continued in the ongoing dedication by Transvital laboratories to find the best possible solutions for the different needs of the skin at different ages and in different circumstances.

Based in Switzerland, with its long tradition of scientific research and innovation, Transvital Laboratories offer products that meet highly advanced standards of quality and effectiveness.

Science writing the story of your beauty.​ Working from Dr Jean Thomas' insights, the Transvital laboratories have developed a complete line of Anti-Age treatments.

Perfecting Line When the goal is to perfect the face, the Transvital Perfecting Line is a soft alternative to the most invasive methods.

Developed in the Transvital laboratories, according to the Swiss scientific tradition, this treatment acts in seven directions to prevent and counteract the ageing of the skin: it reconstructs and repairs, restores tone and elasticity, protects, nourishes and illuminates it.

The secret of this highly effective line is the Matrixyl complex, a highly advanced ingredient that counteracts the attack by free radicals, protecting the capital of youthful skin and which stimulates cell repair processes.

Each product has been developed to satisfy a specific need with targeted ingredients and actions.

8

9

LAUNCH

FILA fragrances to celebrate an iconic brand From textile company to lifestyle brand, Fila celebrates with fragrances for men and for women

The history of the Fila brand started in 1911 when the Fila brothers started their textile business in Biella, in northern Italy, an area famous for textiles.

The brand became a household name in 1974 with the launch of the tennis sportwear called “White Line�.

Since then the Red and Blue F logo has been synonymous of quality and sophistication.

Since 2017, the FILA universe is not just sportswear and accessories, but thanks to the collaboration between Fila and Coswell, a line of unisex cosmetics for sport, Fila Change the Game, has come into being.

This complete range has been conceived not only for those who do sport, but also for those who share the style and elegance

10

of the brand that has written the history of tennis and fashion.

The latest addition to the unisex products for cleaning and deodorizing are two Eau de Toilette fragrances: Fila Eau de Toilette FOR MAN and FOR WOMAN. Underlying the creative process was the idea of making unique fragrances closely linked to the Fila lifestyle in the Italian tradition, together with an innovative spirit with the ability to conquer the market and vintage trends.

The Fila fragrances celebrate the brand by merging fresh and hesperide scents, enriched with original and energetic notes. The eau de toilette FOR MAN has very fresh and light top citrus notes of bergamot, orange, lemon, grapefruit and mint leaves,

which are then transformed into an interesting and sophisticated aromatic fragrance, with the heart of a marine accord, basil, artemisia, rosemary and jasmine, for men who want to emphasise their physical shape elegantly and distinctively, thanks to a final touch of vetiver in the base notes, together with cedar wood, amber, patchouli and musk.

The eau de toilette FOR WOMAN pays tribute to the brand’s fans with a sparkling and seductive sweetness in the top notes of lemon and fresh lychee, where the perfume of fresh flowers - rose, lily of the valley and wisteria - merges with the warmth of the woody base notes of cedar wood, sandalwood and musk.

Both Eau de Toilettes come in a 100 ml size.

VISIT US AT

Cosmoprof Bologna: Booth C18/D17 – PAVILION 14 IAADFS Orlando: Booth 106

11

INTERVIEW

ASTRA MAKE-UP from rebranding to the new frontiers of social media and export Export Magazine speaks to Simone Settimi, General Manager

EXPORT MAGAZINE: One year from the publication of the rebranding of your brand, can we make a first analysis of how it has gone. What has the response been from the retail market and from your consumers?

SIMONE SETTIMI: This operations affected the company at all levels: new packaging, new channels, a new way of communicating the brand; the enthusiastic response from the consumers is the reflection of the constant work of repositioning of the brand, upgrading of the distribution, the internal reorganization of the company and the renewal of the product catalogue.

The smart and continuous approach to social network channels has also meant that the new image is consolidated and let Astra makes its mark on the market amongst the leading figures in the cosmetic sector.

EM: Following the success that the market is recognizing for the repositioning of Astra, what is the strategy to be implemented: continue along the road started on or are there new ideas on the horizon?

SS: The objective is to consolidate the new image and the repositioning on the domestic market.

12

A very important challenge that awaits us concerns the export market, where we will be concentrating much of our energy to confirm the enormous quality of the brand. We are already present in more than 30 countries and we are moving to make Astra Make-Up known even more widely.

EM: In the communication plan in 2018, we noticed that your presence in

the social media has increased constantly.

What should we expect for 2019?

SS: An important presence in terms of digital communication is, together with the centrality of the export objective, the main target of 2019.

We have already started various advertising campaigns on the most important platforms like Facebook and Instagram,

as well as having started to work with some of the most influential beauty bloggers of Italy; we will continue to strengthen our presence on the social media, trying to win over the section of consumers defined “millennials”.

C.S.

PH © Susi Belianska

LONG LASTING RITUAL Esiste un segreto dietro alla perfetta tenuta della base trucco. Long Lasting Ritual è la collezione composta da due differenti primer viso, uno lissante e uno opacizzante, un fixing spray dalle proprietà fissative e rinfrescanti e Velvet Skin Loose Powder, la polvere di riso ideale per il baking.

WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM

13

EVENTS

The combined event drew a record number of 51,500 visitors to the exhibition centre, 50% from outside Germany.

They visited 3,273 exhibitors from 98 countries, discovering new products, trends and innovations from all over the world.

VIVANESS 2019 ends on a high note!

The international fair for natural and organic care was held in Nuremberg from 13 to 16 February with Biofach, the world’s leading show for organic food Vivaness itself, had 284 exhibitors from 41 countries, making it a truly international gathering with this year the Philippines and Serbia taking part for the first time. Over the four days of the show, visitors were able to discover a unique range of the latest products and insider tips, including those featured at the “Innovation made in Germany” pavilion, where ten ambitious newcomers presented their innovations, A total of 24 other German and international newcomers presented their companies and their products at the special show, Breeze: young labels, trendy niche brands and small manufacturing workshops from eight different countries, including Belarus, France, Italy, Latvia,

14

South Korea and Hungary, could be discovered there. Some very definite trends appeared at Vivaness: Nordic beauty products using ingredients from the Scandinavian landscape, pre- and probiotic natural and organic cosmetics and dermaceuticals with attention placed on the skin’s microbiome; zero-waste products and innovative packaging, such as tubes made from natural resources such as sugar cane or biologically degradable liquid wood; lifestyle and sport products. Delegates to the Vivaness congress this year showed a particular interest, with 143 participants in the event “The Natural and Organic Cosmetic market 2018: Facts and figures and market forecasts.”

Another highlight was the special networking hub, “Let’s talk Vivaness”, which was in its second edition this year: it invited trade visitors, exhibitors, service providers and media representatives to relax and network in an atmosphere designed for communication and with attractive catering facilities.

Trade visitors were able to vote for their favourite products for the Best New Product Awards.

The Vivaness winners were Speick Naturkosmetic for its “Black Soap” and Spieck Sun in the Special Cosmetics/Care category; Weleda with its Skin Food series: Body Butter, Lip Butter and Light (Body Care); Urtekram, with its Green Match antipollution hair treatment (Haircare); benecos, with the “benecos Natural Foundation Stick” (Decorative Cosmetics), Denttabs, with “dental care tablets with and without fluoride” and the Bamboo Brush (General Chemist’s items), as well as Coscoon Cosmetics, with Crème solide - Solid body butter (Wellness products).

The dates are already set for next year: 12-15 February 2020 with a move to the new, modern light-flooded Hall 3C, designed by Zaha Hadid Architects and which will offer Vivaness optimal development and design options into the future.

PH © Susi Belianska

SUBLIMINAL MASCARA V O L U M E AT O M I C O / N E R O I N T E N S O / L U N G A D U R ATA

WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM

15

company

NOTEBOOK FRAGRANCES olfactory Two new fragrances join this distinctive collection

Created in 2017, Notebook Fragrances by Selectiva were originally five in number, with the modern and sophisticated graphics recalling a collection of notebooks in which to record important and secret things: the notes of your life.

The original five fragrances were Patchouly & Cedar Wood for him, White Wood & Vetiver for him, Rose Musk & Vanilla for her, Cassis & Pink Pepper for her and Citrus & Green Tea for him and for her.

16

This year sees the addition of two new perfumes, each with a great personality to complete a modern and contemporary family.

Peony & White Musk for her is a fragrance that contains the vibrant and romantic passion for keeping corollas, accompanied by fruity scents, supported by the tenacity and the warmth of musk and wood.

harmonies with unique personalities

It comes from a blossoming of flowers like rose, peony, jasmine, geranium and cyclamen, intertwined with musky and woody notes, with some spicy hints.

This new fragrance expresses sensuality, passion and joie de vivre.

Its top notes of sweet orange, peach, apple and violet leaves set the scene for the rich floral heart of violet, rose, peony, jasmine, cyclamen, pink pepper and cloves, while the base is redolent of warm sensuality with white musk, sandalwood, patchouli, amber and vanilla.

The new fragrance for him is Bergamot & Sandalwood, with a bouquet that welcomes memorable notes: fresh citrus scents like bergamot, lemon and blood orange, a floral harmony of heart notes like rose and geranium and a wonderful symphony ending with woody poudrĂŠ notes, making it a fragrance synonymous with energy and vitality.

Its top notes are grapefruit, blood orange, pear, bergamot and an aquatic accord; the heart comprises geranium, rose, lavender, pink pepper, nutmeg and patchouli and the base notes of sandalwood, cedrino wood, vetiver, tonka bean and vanilla add depth and persistence.

17

LAUNCH

Bella In Paris for women by Franck Olivier,

an invitation for a journey of discovery

FRANCK OLIVIER, THE FASHION BRAND WITH AN INIMITABLE STYLE, PRESENTS ITS NEW FRAGRANCE FOR WOMEN, THAT IS A JOURNEY OF THE SENSES

Founded in 1993, the family-owned SODIP boasts 21 years' experience in LUXURY perfumes.

Through its flagship brand "Franck Olivier" it markets its perfume ranges to exclusive outlets in 57 countries worldwide.

18

Over the years, the company has continued to boost its image as a dynamic company with innovative marketing.

SODIP has demonstrated its ability to anticipate and adapt to market changes and customer expectations giving it the keys to success for its international development.

As a tightly-knit, family company SODIP also owes its success to the loyalty

and trust of its partners all over the world.

Consistent quality and innovation, commitment and team spirit, remain keywords in the company's philosophy.

Franck Olivier is a name that has been well known in women’s ready to wear fashion over more than forty years now.

Dedicated to women with spirit and who are dynamic and elegant, Franck Olivier designs are also favoured by loyal clients from show business and politics.

For the new fragrance for women, the inspiration has come from sensuality and elegance.

A flowery fragrance in a bottle with round lines magnified by its elegant black ribbon.

Unpredictable, always on the move, Bella in Paris takes you on a whirlwind of happiness and fantasy.

The fragrance is an assemblage of surprising combinations and encounters: waves of extreme freshness meet flowery notes and fuse with mouthwateringly sensual, spicy elements.

A fruity flowery perfume interwoven with peach, orange, rose and cedar.

Dressed in musks and sandalwood, Bella in Paris is rounder, more enveloping.

An olfactory rendez-vous with Paris and its elegant and refined atmosphere.

2020 COSMOPROF BOLOGNA, ITALY – FAIR DISTRICT

12 – 15 MARCH

13 – 16 MARCH

A new world for beauty Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai

Company of

With the participation of

cosmoprof.com

Organiser BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a.

Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036 info@cosmoprof.it

In partnership with

19

LAUNCH

NOUBA believing in the outsider

everyday on stage Outsider Celebrity is NOUBA's spring/summer 2019 collection expressing Diego Dalla Palma's vibrant artistic inspiration.

Rich in contrasting colours, Outsider Celebrity reconsiders the tribal roots of the brand and projects them into the future with courage and determination.

20

Courage is the driving force of the brand, which finds starting points coming from both reality and imagination in order to develop iconic products and surprising colours.

“We boldly picked non-professional models, street casted women whose faces were the most appropriate for this outside-the-box campaign” - Dalla Palma explains - “deeply convinced that beauty resides in a peculiar, one of a kind face and that harmony arises from the refined balance of contrasting elements”.

Three different women, explained in a graphic and artistic way: their faces receive and capture colours like a white canvass, transforming every line in pure emotion.

Vibrating souls surrounded by a magic elegance soaked in sensuality.

It is everyday life that goes on stage, it is the will to challenge patinated beauty stereotypes, embracing form ductility and colour energising power.

For this reason, solar shades are

the main features of the collection, warmed by the natural tones of the earth and by the unexpected attack of orange hues.

Gloomy green works as a break between light and disruptive shades.

An enveloping make-up such as the Ten Hours Sleep texture, a compact foundation able to give the face a ten-hour sleep freshness.

The Powder-wrap technology allows the pigments coverage with soft flexible polymers, giving the face an immediate glow and a surprising “bonne mine” effect.

The lips look full thanks to sparkling flashes of light, while the cheeks are illuminated by delicate shades of pink and peach. Outsider Celebrity is a hymn to women, to a tribe of changing heroines imbued with everyday life, authentic fragile and determined warriors, characterised by infinite contradictions but united by the passion for beauty and colour.

We promote and believe in all outsider women.

21

2019 COSMOPROF INDIA MUMBAI A new world for beauty Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai cosmoprofindia.com

22

12 – 14 JUNE

Sales Office Asia Pacific UBM India Pvt. Ltd Mumbai, India P +91 22 6172 7510 F +91 22 6172 7273 cosmoprof-India@ubm.com

Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, The Americas BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a.

Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 / F +39 02 795 036 international@cosmoprof.it

BOMBAY CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE (BCEC) Marketing and Promotion BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a.

Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036 info@cosmoprof.it

Organised by

New venue!

2019 COSMOPROF NORTH AMERICA LAS VEGAS A new world for beauty Bologna, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Mumbai cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

JULY 28 – 30

Sales Office US, Canada and Mexico PBA, Scottsdale, AZ, USA P +1 480 281 0424 F +1 480 905 0708 info@cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER

Sales Office Europe, Africa, Middle East, Asia and South America BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a.

Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 / F +39 02 795 036 international@cosmoprof.it

The leading B2B beauty event in North America, offering the entire industry an opportunity to come together, make new relationships, and foster collaborations.

REGISTER NOW AND SAVE UP TO 25%.

Marketing and Promotion BolognaFiere Cosmoprof S.p.a.

Milan, Italy P +39 02 796 420 F +39 02 795 036 info@cosmoprof.it

Organizer North American Beauty Events LLC

23

company

DIVAGE focuses on capsule collections

and limited edition kits for 2019 Nuances of gold and full colour characterize the products

The marketing strategy implemented last year by Divage, the Italian make-up brand with an international outlook, is continuing with success: focusing on capsule collections, limited edition kits and numerous product launches with the dual objective of having greater competitiveness in Italy and increasingly opening its vision on export markets.

The renewed presence of the company at Beautyworld Middle East in Dubai (Hall S2 – Stand F36) where the stand will have the active presence of the distributors of Dubai, Palestine, Saudi Arabia and Egypt, is the sign of a strong consolidation of significant alliances with partners who know their markets of reference very well and have the potential to give the brand a definite international boost. Increasing the continuative line with new products that are not closely linked to seasons, has had a very positive feedback from professionals and above all from the consumers, with whom the company aims to develop a constant dialogue: opening the online store and the investment in

24

the social media are the preferential channels of dialogue, the place where the brand is building up a relationship with its target every day.

Two important new items are on their way this year: the GOLD PARTY capsule collection and the family of limited edition kits.

The first is a project that has been created specifically to meet the needs of foreign markets, in particular in the Middle East, which are strongly accelerating and represent an important share of the global market of Divage.

Five products with in common the colour, gold, with a specific focus on lips and eyes: Good Vibes mascara, with a spectacular super lenghthening effect; Good Vibes Matt Lipstick, the very long-lasting lipstick with an ultra-matte finish and a comfortable moisturizing formula; Highlighter Palette, which has five shades ranging from gold to bronze, to create perfect effects of the light and combinations with pearly gleams; Waterproof Pencil, a 3-in-1 pencil: eyeliner, kajal and eye shadow; Waterproof Eye Liner & Kajal, the innovative automatic pencil with a dual use and an ultra-silky and smooth texture that ensures a bold and luminous smudge-proof line.

Nail Kits, palettes of Divage nail varnishes with a material finish in the shades of the moment, together with varnishes with special effects and/or curative BB in intriguing packaging.

Lips Kit, perfect combinations of lipsticks and lip pencils in precious sets and in the shades of pink, red and nude.

Eyes Kit, the winning combination for eyes to the fore and lashes with extra volume and length, black eyeliner or pencil + matching mascara.

MIDDLE EAST DISTRIBUTORS PRESENT AT THE DIVAGE STAND AT BEAUTYWORLD DUBAI

www 25

LAUNCH

LUIGI BORRELLI NAPOLI when neapolitan sartorial elegance is translated into fragrances Drawing on a family heritage going back to the end of the 19th century, Luigi Borrelli Napoli and the values of fine craftsmanship, elegance and passion, the Luigi Borrelli, Royal Collection of Fragrances perfectly embody this culture of refinement and sophistication.

A fourth-generation tailoring family enters the world of fragrances with a splendid collection Named after the fine fabrics that have always been used in the family’s tailoring business, they are crafted with the same attention and care as the bespoke shirts and suits for men who want the very best.

COTTON is an aromatic interpretation of the popular fabric where values, philosophy of the Fashion House and part of its DNA are reflected. Purity and freshness open the composition with clary sage with anise. The feeling of comfort and cosiness is created by the vanilla-iris union in the heart of the fragrance.

The soft velvety texture is underlined with an elegant rose note together with the woody-ambery base accord.

VICUÑA WOOL is a chypre fragrance consecrated to vetiver. Black pepper underlined with tangy elemi resin brings harmony and a certain

26

opaqueness to the composition, and merges later into the classical chypre accord of oak moss, patchouli and amber.

Combined with a masculine note of bitter leather, this accord spotlights top and heart notes in order to deliver the tactile feeling of touching a fine sweater made of natural wool.

CASHMERE is an aromatic ode that celebrates a contrast between seeming subtlety and actual durability of cashmere. The main accord is built around the multifaceted labdanum, “turning” to cashmere with the help of a spicy, woody and musky-powdery embrace. After a brisk departure with bergamot, there is black pepper and incense that array labdanum with a semi-transparent smoky shawl.

Together with a spicy-balmy accord, a rich woody theme develops with notes of cedar, guaiac wood and vetiver.

Silk is a cool and caressing scent, built on a traditional masculine combination of citruses and vetiver but seen from a new angle: the freshness of citrus gardens, the green spiciness of Clary sage, the elegant severity of Vetiver and Moss, the creamy-almondy sweetness of Tonka beans and dry amber wind. Silk does not insist, it can find a compromise and rules with a firm but tender hand. This cool and caressing scent is slightly softened by oily-powdery Cedarwood and velvety musks.

All the fragrances are 100 ml Eau de Parfum.

27

INTERVIEW

FARMECO a new dimension in dermocosmetics

Interview with Alkis Kostarelos, Farmeco CEO

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Dr. Kostarelos, Farmeco’s focus has always been based on innovation and quality. Do you agree?

Alkis Kostarelos: We are indeed very proud that during our 44 year-old corporate history we have been constantly exploiting every scientific development, transforming it to innovative, state-of-the-art dermocosmetics.

We started with our legendary Camouflage products, which were a real breakthrough in the cosmetic industry, as they initiated a totally new segment, that of the concealing foundations.

Since their creation we have remained leaders in this segment, while at the same time, we have dedicated all our efforts on developing new product lines with the highest level of both safety and efficacy.

This has paid off in a twofold way: absolute trust from our international partners and full satisfaction from the end-users.

These constitute the guiding principles of our day-to-day operation.

28

EM: What is your latest step regarding innovation?

AK: During the last years, Farmeco has been very eager to adapt our products to contemporary consumer habits, needs and trends.

We have been studying the consequences on the skin of the increasing radiation of several sources and types, and so we have focused on the development of avant-garde products to prevent and protect the skin from those consequences and maintain its health and beauty, which are both of equal importance.

Last year we re-launched, with great success, our face sunscreens, by incorporating our full spectrum protection system, combating all types of solar radiation, UVA, UVB, Blue Light and Infra Red. This year, we are taking another important step to the same direction.

We are now presenting to the market our reformulated anti-aging treatment products.

Super-powered with 5 bio-mimicking peptides and an innovative biocomplex, they constitute the most complete anti-aging treatment, fighting all four causes of the formation of wrinkles!

Additional to preventing skin aging, photo-aging and aging from facial expressions, our new formulation protects from the latest aging threat, the very negative effects of Blue Light and Electro Magnetic Radiation (EMR),

emitted from all electronic devices such as cell-phones, tablets, laptops, screens, wifi rooters, etc, which have all become an indispensable part of modern life.

We have named this threat e-agingÂŽ in order to communicate easier to consumers its negative effect on human skin.

We are really extremely proud for this development, which moves anti-aging treatment into the modern electronic era!

INTERVIEW

EM: Can we affirm that 2019 will be an important year for Farmeco?

AK: 2019 is indeed going to be a very important year for us.

Apart from rolling out our e-aging® concept to the international markets, this year we are also presenting our Colorceuticals lines (make-ups, compact powders and concealers), which are reformulated by incorporating our full spectrum protection concept together with a very high SPF 50+.

This way, our end-users can now enjoy multiple benefits from our 3-in-1 products: excellent maquillage + effective treatment + absolute sun protection!

A real revolution in the segment of coloring, corrective products!

Naturally, we are all very excited to unfold all these innovations to the international arena.

We are already enthusiastic with the positive reaction and wholehearted acceptance

of the new concepts by the distributors to whom they have been presented during the early days of 2019 and I am sincerely confident that 2019 will be an unprecedented year for us!

EM: What is the feedback of the international markets up to now?

AK: The presence of e-aging® is universal, it does not depend on geography, climate, ethnicity or culture.

Moreover, it is independent of age; all consumers, in all countries, during

any season, from all socio-economic backgrounds and at any age, spend an increasing amount of time in front of devices that radically and cumulatively attack the integrity of their skin.

For this reason, as well as the fact that our COVERMARK® and COVERDERM® brands have pioneered in this field by introducing the world’s first anti e-aging® holistic cosmetic treatment, the feedback we have been receiving from all international markets is tremendous, even at this early stage that our projects are being presented in different countries.

In general, we are pleased that our dedication to excellence in dermo-cosmetics has been recognized by both distributors and end-users and has rewarded us with our new record in 2018 of exports to 88 international markets!

We are very satisfied that we have gained a prominent awareness in the global

dermo-cosmetics market and that we are trusted as a reliable partner by an extended network of national distributors.

EM: Will you support the launch of the anti-aging line with specific communication tools and point of sale materials?

AK: We have already planned and in fact have started to implement in the various markets full scale above and below the line initiatives.

Except for our in-store support of sales with leaflets, sachets, window-stickers and display stands, we are already deploying a social media communication plan, which will be gradually evolved into print and TV media advertisement campaigns.

We strongly believe in our latest R&D achievements and we are ready to strongly support them with a variety of marketing activities at hand in each market.

C.S.

Source: comScore Global Digital Future

29

GRUPPOVENTO.IT

®

Relationships at the heart

BOLOGNA ITALY APRIL 12-14, 2019

MORE SOCIAL MORE HUMAN ORGANIZED BY: BOS S.r.l.

Via Alfieri Maserati 16 - 40128 BOLOGNA Ph. +39 02 796420 | Fax +39 02 454708285 info@cosmofarma.com | www.cosmofarma.com

30

AN EVENT BY

SPONSORSHIP BY

IN COOPERATION WITH

IN CONJUCTION WITH E X H I B I T I O N

LIFE SCIENCE INDUSTRY COMES TO LIFE

APRIL 10 -12, 2019

PASSION, CREATIVITY, INNOVATION: 2019, A NEW YEAR WITH MANE SUCCESSES MANE perfumers illuminate 2019 with brilliant scents which combine MANE’s purest natural ingredients and innovative captives.

Véronique Nyberg created for TRUSSARDI RIFLESSO BLUE VIBE a dynamic game of contrasts: hot and cold, rational and emotional, elegant and rebel, sweet and bitter.

The fragrance opens with inebriant Rum Pure Jungle Essence™, MANE specialty, enveloping Davana Essential Oil and sparkling Yuzu. In the heart notes, Geranium Essential Oil blends with Hazelnut Neo Jungle Essence™ and then encounters the enchanted world of Artemisia Essential Oil. The misterious and intense base notes of Italian Leather Accord, Amberwood and Tobacco Absolute link the fragrance to the heritage of Trussardi brand and to Italian craftmanship tradition.

The brilliant character of FERRAGAMO RINASCIMENTO is reflected in the deep green of the jus created by Alex Lee. The top is a mix of Italian Mandarine Essence, Basil Essence and Green Pepper Neo Jungle Essence™, for a powerful and sparkling impact.

The flowery heart feels like a daring bouquet where the green notes of the Lily combine with the Tuberose Absolute magnetism and the delicate voluptuousness of the Florentine Iris Butter.

Sandalwood and Orcanox™ add a sensual touch to the base, while the Vetiver makes it vibrant.

The second chapter of DOLCE&GABBANA THE ONLY ONE’s iconic signature of Coffee and Violet is reinterpreted by Violaine Collas with powdery Red Roses, the symbol of love and seduction.

Top notes of Red Berries, Pear and Freesia are blended with a heart of Red Rose Superessence, Violet and Coffee, lending a warm and sensuous aura to the scent.

Smooth, sweet notes of Tonka Bean and Patchouli in the base amplify its addictive quality, lingering on the skin and demanding your return…

Created by perfumer Julie Massé, the new GIORGIO ARMANI SÌ FIORI EAU DE PARFUM reinterprets the classical SÌ Eau de Parfum Chypre theme with Neroli, blended with top notes of sparkling Green Mandarin and energetic Blackcurrant, the signature ingredient in every SÌ fragrance.

With base notes of Vanilla and White Musk, SÌ FIORI has a grace that is both simple and complex, like a flower, from which it takes its inspiration.

Véronique Nyberg and Julie Massé have created HALLOWEEN MAGIC by HALLOWEEN, a fascinating and mysterious Chypre Fruity Elixir. Sparkling on top, the essence of Yellow Mandarin mingles with the juicy tones of Raspberry and a Pear Sorbet and invites us into an acidulated and colorful universe.

The heart notes unveil a captivating bouquet with Jasmine Sambac Absolute, Freesia and Pink Peony. In the dry down, an astonishing, attractive and oriental wake breaks out from the depths of the fragrance with hints of Patchouli, Vanilla and Tonka Beans.

Even more glamour and innovation to come…

31

This document is published by

The global business platform for luxury packaging

32

33

INTERVIEW

CONFALONIERI a passion for pencils MATITE and for the respect of the environment INTERVIEW WITH LUCA CONFALONIERI, CEO

Obviously underlying everything there is the quality of the products, which has to be indisputable. We started to produce the “leads” ourselves in the 1980s. Before we would import them from Germany, and even then they conformed to the USA FDA regulations.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: You have recently celebrated the 50th anniversary of the company.

Fifty years dedicated to make-up pencils…

LUCA CONFALONIERI: We have indeed recently reached this significant goal, which is also the object of our communication.

A simple message, true to ourselves and to those who read us.

EM: Observing your site, we noticed a space on the first page dedicated to your mother.

LC: My mother was for many years the spiritual and material, as well as the creative, guide of Confalonieri Matite.

Her concreteness completed the character of my father, a fascinating and athletic man, who was talented for public relations.

34

Together they taught me the fundamental values of life, pride, respect for work, sincerity, what is usually defined “being a good person”.

These values are at times overlooked nowadays, but for us they continue to be the cornerstones of our way of operating, towards our employees, customers and suppliers. Succeeding in always being ourselves, whether you are speaking in English with a foreign professional or in dialect with someone from your own village, and being able to listen to the person next to you: you can learn something new from anyone.

EM: Is this philosophy of life of help in running your business?

LC: I think so, proof of this is the loyalty of our customers.

EM: How has your production site evolved over the years?

LC: As I said, we are a family business. At the beginning our factory was in the industrial area of Chiavenna, next to the river.

My grandfather had little choice as in those days, as there was no energy, the only solution to produce power was to have a turbine of your own.

Other factories looked on to the river for the same reason.

Today, fortunately, things have changed and we are in an industrial area with everything we need and, from the initial 2000 square metres, we have gone to 10,000 square metres, without about 80 employees.

EM: What are the most positive aspects of your company?

LC: The fact of not having delocalized the production, which is where the administration, the sales department, the research

laboratory and the logistics are - all in a single place - lets us provide answers to our customers in real time.

Our IT system has been developed in such a way as to trace production and delivery of articles customer by customer, lot by lot. The delivery times vary from 60 to 90 calendar days, not production days; I can say that we do everything that is within our possibilities to meet customers’ needs.

EM: Is being flexible a plus?

LC: Reasoning in productive terms, it is obvious that the company has to be 100% flexible, well organized and orderly.

The objective is to reach perfection, even though we know that, if this is our aspiration, it will never be completely possible… you add one more goal.

What is important is being able to question yourself, show curiosity for what’s new and for what can be improved.

To give you one example, we have included in the system all the possible production issues: the wind, the sun, the heat, the cold, the damp.

Nevertheless, I believe that both our team and I still have to work on “being sharpened”.

INTERVIEW

EM: What are your markets of reference?

LF: There are a number of them, and they are all significant.

Starting from the Italian market, which is historically important, to the other European markets such as France and Germany, England, Russia, the Middle East, the United States and Canada, Australia and others, ranging from East to West.

EM: “Sustainability� is increasingly talked about. What is your position on this subject?

LC: The wooden pencil is in itself a product that can be partially disposed of in the environment.

In the past few years we have been working on looking for raw materials and innovative materials to make our products even more sustainable.

This is how our brand new sustainable COSMOS line came into being.

Pencils and jumbo pencils certified

by Cosmos Organic with wood from well-managed, ethically correct and certified forests. We have also used organic paints based on water and organic resins and caps created with compostable biodegradable material. A real innovation, both at the level of formulation and in the sustainable materials used, without ever overlooking quality and final performances. I would say that all this confirms that the company wants to choose the most difficult and most expensive route, but the ethically correct one.

EM: Is the pencil an important part of the make-up sector?

LC: It is a multi.-faceted and versatile product, as it can be used

in many ways as kohl, eye pencil, lipstick, eye shadow, blush, concealer and brows.

Compared to others, it is one of the least expensive products for the consumer and this is one more reason to have a good assortment of pencils in your beauty-case!

I myself love flowers, plants and in particular roses.

Beauty is reveals in nature, before anywhere else.

This is why a good part of our investments are made to improve the environment which surrounds us.

EM: Speaking about ecology, Confalonieri Matite, set in greenery and in the mountains, is definitely at an advantage compared to many other manufacturers.

LC: It is certainly a privilege to look out of the window, while we work, and see the greenery and the mountains.

This makes working days more joyful, compared to those who look on to concrete walls.

EM: What are your hopes for the future of Confalonieri Matite?

LC: The future is in the hands of the young. I share with our work team lots of starting points for new ideas and products.

My hope is to continue to grow implementing all the innovations possible, making known on the different markets the Italian quality and excellence that distinguishes a company like ours.

C.S.

35

With over 30 years of expertise in hair color and care, we connect our clients with their dreams, creating beloved and successful hair and skin care brands thanks to pioneering product concepts, formulas, design and full-service partnerships.

We are the partners of more than 120 brands living in 90 countries all over the world and we offer a wealth of 1000 formulas Made in Italy.

We distribute 4 own brands both in the professional market and retail: Nouvelle, Silky, Eslabondexx and Guudcure.

COSMOPACK Bologna 14th-17th March ¡ COSMOPROF WORLDWIDE Bologna 15th- 18th March BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST Dubai 15th-17th April

36

connect yourself with your dreams: hsacosmetics.com - shop.hsacosmetics.com

37

COMPANY

COLLISTAR the latest new products in skincare, make-up and fragrance Lift HD Lift HD is the latest Cosmetic miracle by Collistar.

Lift HD (High Definition) is the anti-age product that lifts, defines and sculpts the contours of the face, restoring volume.

The range comprises Ultra-Lifting Face and Neck Cream, Ultra-lifting Eye and Lip Contour Cream, Mask-Cream Night Recovery, Ultra-Lifting Vials Instant Effect and Ultra-Lifting Patches.

Collistar is unstoppable in its search for effective products and seductive make-up As well as working deep down to gradually replump the tissues, Lift HD products create an instant lifting and smoothing effect.

The products are unique thanks to two innovative ingredients: Tens-Activ, which instantly lifts the face, and Lift HD Complex, combining a brown algae extract with a bioactive “anti-gravity� tetrapeptide for an instant tensor effect but also helping restructure the skin texture day by day.

38

COMPANY

PORTOFINO The new Collistar Spring/Summer 2019 make-up collection is inspired Portofino, the fishermen’s village which became the resort of the jet set.

The colours of the setting sun have inspired Sunset in the Bay, while the turquoise of the sea is reflected in Enchanted Sea: two palettes each with four powder eye shadows. The Eye Shadow Stick is available in shades of cream, bronze and gold. Professional Glitter Eye Pencils in Tigullio Turquoise and Deep Blue light up the eyes.

Gloss Design comes in White Pearl, Pink and Coral to create striking, ultra-sparkling hologram effects with an instant plumping effect and long-lasting shine. Just a couple of Precious Drops bring sensual shimmering light to the cheekbones, eyebrows and décolleté. It comes in White Pearl and Coral Pearl and is perfect for all complexions.

The collection is completed

by Smoothing Matte Primer and Even Finish Brightening Primer.

COLLISTAR PRESTIGE COLLECTION: AN ONGOING JOURNEY IN INTENSITY AND PERFECTION Unique fragrances for men and women created by the most internationally renowned Maître Parfumeurs La Vaniglia, dedicated to the luxurious personality of Madagascar vanilla, is the latest addition to the Collistar Prestige Collection. Created by Olivier Cresp, this fragrance brings out its more brilliant, enveloping and sensual side. The fresh opening notes of bergamot are interwoven with the flowery and velvety touches of rose and jasmine, immersed in the soft and precious base notes of cashmere, amber and musk.

La Vaniglia joins La Rosa, L’Incenso, L’Oud and L’Ambra. La Rosa is a tribute to the Rose, the empress of flowers, interpreted by Jordi Fernandez, who has brought out its most vibrant and sensual side. In L’Incenso, a hypnotic and mystical fragrance, Fabrice Pellegrin has brought out its more mystical and enveloping side.

Magnetic and sumptuous, L’Oud by Vincent Schaller offers its more indulgent and multifaceted side. The intensity of L’Ambra has been interpreted

by Fabrice Pellegrin, bringing out its more opulent and sensual side.

All the fragrances in the Collistar Prestige Collection are 100 ml Eau de Parfum.

APPOINTMENT OF A NEW INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR Luigi Rivetti is the new International Director of Collistar.

A native of Turin and an Economics and Commerce graduate, Luigi Rivetti, 52 years old, has great experience in the management of branches and export divisions in the beauty sector, and has spent long periods abroad, first in the USA and then in Paris.

His role will be to lead the international expansion of Collistar, whilst boosting its presence on the markets where it has already been present for some time.

He will report directly to the CEO Daniela Sacerdote, who commented, “The arrival of such an experienced manager is a source of satisfaction for all of us.

We are sure that he will give a powerful boost to our international sector, which has constantly grown in recent years, taking it into the next phase of development.”

39

company

PARFUMS PERGOLESE PARIS It is here; in the heart of the 16ème arrondissement the chicest part of Paris, in the quiet street “Rue Pergolèse” where the adventure of Parfums Pergolèse Paris began, with an Eau de Parfum called Rue Pergolèse, of course!

Since its creation in 2010, Rue Pergolèse has conquered and seduced the whole world.

Its success started initially in South of America and Europe, in particular in Eastern Europe, before spreading, over the years, all around the world.

Parfums Pergolèse Paris is the essence of the French Art of Perfumery.

Parfums Pergolèse Paris fragrances capture the spirit of Paris in a chic bottle, simple and elegant...

It is luxury and lightness.

Paris, the “Ville Lumière” is the timeless inspiration for Artists, Designers, Creators, Craftsmen and Perfumers all over the world.

Everything started with Rue Pergolèse, this typically Parisian perfume, chic and timeless.

This sparkling fragrance an ode to Paris with its original fresh and refined notes was the impulse to extend the range of Rue Pergolèse perfumes.

Rue Pergolèse fragrance with cheerful and sparkling notes, reflecting the “Parisian Life”...

An elegant and sparkling fresh scent... on a bed of musk mesmerizing wakes of gourmand apricot notes with top note of bergamot, freesia and blackcurrant heart notes magnolia, lily, jasmine and tea.

PARFUMS PERGOLESE PARIS COSMOPROF BOLOGNA ITALY 2019 STAND C12-D17F - HALL 16 – PAVILION FRANCE

40

Mr MAGAUD Patrick, C.E.O Ms RUFAS Djeylane, Business Development Manager

Photo : Dominique Silbertsein

41

COMPANY

REBIS

natural products with the purest ingredients and powerful formulas

Rebis have been manufacturing natural cosmetics in Italy since 1977.

clay, extra virgin organic olive oil and medicinal plants.

Other natural raw materials come from Mexico, such as jojoba oil and aloe vera, from China we source ginseng and from Peru the cinchona and the Peruvian ratania. Rebis uses pure essential oils, extracted by distillation from aromatic plants, contribute to the activation, fragrance and the conservation of every natural cosmetic.

All our creams and ointments are preserved exclusively by beeswax, propolis, essential oils and vegetable resins. Rebis natural cosmetics are free of antioxidants and synthetic dyes, artificial fragrances and petroleum derivatives. Rebis has now begun distributing its natural cosmetics beyond Italy, with strong growth coming from Asia and further ambitious growth plans for Europe and the Americas.

It was founded by doctor mola, a physician and herbalist, and the creator of every natural product formulation in the Rebis range. dr mola also has a vast wealth of unique knowledge handed down to him by many generations of his family, who have worked as pharmacists continuously since 1700.

Rebis selects only the finest natural substances and their extracts or derivatives. Most of the natural raw ingredients come from the hilly slopes of an ancient volcano, Mount Amiata, a mountainous area in Tuscany. From these hilly territories rich in woods, olive groves and thermal springs comes bee propolis and beeswax, sulfur salts, sun dried

To find out more, contact us at info@rebisnatural.com

Mama Cosmetic Range

42 Sun Care Range

Delicate natural cosmetics with high impact results Natural preservatives Organic and natural ingredients Fragranced with natural essential oils

To learn more visit us at rebisnatural.com

43

EVENTS

Just under a month before the doors open at Cosmoprof Bologna 2019, the atmosphere is already optimistic, with (to date) 2947 companies from 70 countries registered as exhibitors, compared to 2822 last year.

To deal with this increasing number of exhibitors, the layout of the pavilions has been redesigned to be more functional and again this year confirms the targeted opening dates.

From Thursday 14 to Sunday 17 March 2019, Cosmoprof and Cosmo | Perfumery & Cosmetics will open its doors for producers and specialists

The increasing number of exhibiting companies promises an edition that will break new records

COSMOPROF BOLOGNA 2019 a record-breaking edition is expected of the supply chain, finished product companies, and buyers/retailers, with the latter focusing on the Perfumery and Cosmetics sector, Green & organic beauty, and Cosmoprime, the area dedicated to high-end cosmetics.

From Friday 15 to Monday 18 March, the show opens for the professional distribution channels of Cosmo | Hair & Nail & Beauty Salon, with the participation of salon owners and beauty centres, hair stylists, hairdressers , nail technicians and distributors specialized ion these segments.

44

There will be 26 country and group pavilions, representing Austria, Belgium, California, Chile, China, France, Germany, Greece, Indonesia, Ireland, Israel, Japan, Korea, Latvia, Pakistan, Poland, Romania, Spain, South Africa, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, Turkey, the UAE, the UK and the USA. There will be an important focus on sustainability and the circular economy, in particular during the third edition of CosmoTalks, the event’s educational programme.

There will be more than 30 sessions from 14 to 16 March, with the participation of 150 international speakers. The panel discussions will be hosted on two different stages, both of which will be located in the Service Centre Area, the heart of the Bologna fair district and thanks to this location, more than 5,000 attendees are expected. Topics to be discussed include “Sustainability now & next”, “Ecological natives: redefining sustainability for the future of your brand, from key trends to creative concepts”, “Designing the new style of sustainable beauty

EVENTS

brands”, “Environmental footprint: an opportunity for beauty companies” and “Green cosmetics; a focus on distribution channels.”

Cosmopack is also recording a significant growth in exhibitors.

Up 9% compared to last year.

This show-in-the-show is dedicated to contract manufacturing, private label, machinery, primary and secondary packaging, and applicators, and will be held in pavilions 20, 15, 15A and 18 and, new for 2019, part of hall 19. Cosmopack will give visibility to new industrial solutions that can reduce the environmental impact of cosmetic production, while Pavilion 19 will host the best of technological innovation in the supply chain.

The S.M.A.R.T. (Solution, Manufacturing, Automation, Research & Technology) area in Cosmopack will showcase the automation solutions presented by a number of companies and smart manufacturing, robotics,

IoT, AI and AR, predictive maintenance, big data, cloud and digital solutions will also be showcased in this area.

The Cosmoprof and Cosmopack awards reward the most innovative projects presented by the 2947 exhibitors: an important recognition by the only fair in the world that involves the entire beauty industry.

The Cosmoprof awards celebrate the most interesting new products presented by companies of finished products, for the hair, nail, skincare and beauty salon sectors in six categories; Hair Product, make-up Product, Nail product, Natural & Organic, personal Care product and Visitors’ Choice.

The Cosmopack awards celebrate innovation, creativity and sustainability and research at the base of the processes of creation and realization of a product and also have six categories: Make-up Formula, Make-up Packaging technology, Packaging Design, Skin Care Formula, Skin Care Packaging technology and Visitors’ Choice.

The Life Achievement Award this year goes to Frédéric Fekkai, one of the most important international players in the world of beauty for over 30 years.

45

REPORT

Empathic Luxury

“Luxury is moving into new spheres” says Paulina Szmydke, editor of the notorious beauty trend forecasting company BEAUTYSTREAMS. “Forget ritzy logos and fancy details.

With socially and eco-conscious Millennials dictating the rules of retail, high-end brands turn to philanthropy and sustainability for a raison d’être”.

From Lust to Sustainability In the average person’s mind, luxury is largely associated with fast cars, fancy handbags, sumptuous visits to spa hotels that will cost the equivalent of a month’s rent in a middle-class neighborhood, and other pleasures that only money can buy.

Luxury derives from the Latin words luxus, which meant “excess,” and luxuria, which translates into “immorality.”

When the English adopted the notion, it was originally

46

understood as “lechery” or “lust,” according to Merriam Webster, while in the Elizabethan age it became synonymous with adultery.

Gradually, the word moved away from its physical, purely sensual connotation to describe a materially “sumptuous environment,” as characterized by food, clothes, and an opulent lifestyle, while in its current state, it refers to something that is purely “indulgent,” “expensive and not necessary.”

Recently, however, luxury has embarked on yet another transformation in search of a deeper meaning, as consumers are increasingly looking for an added value to the pleasures they take and pay for. Yes, they still indulge, but as they do, they are showing interest

in other people’s plight as well as the environment, and are expecting brands to walk the extra mile with them.

They find significance and substance in luxury’s new playgrounds – socially and ecologically responsible causes.

Call it “empathic luxury.”

REPORT

A New Generation of Luxury Shoppers The turn towards empathy is largely due to the rise of a new generation of luxury shoppers made of Millennials.

Together with Gen Z, these currently 18- to 38-year olds account for about 30 percent of luxury consumers.

By 2025, their share will grow to 45 percent of the market.

However, unlike Generation X or their parents before that, these clients won’t settle for just bling.

They are hungry for information and look for a cause. 81 percent of Millennials expect that the brands they buy talk about their sustainability efforts.

They are categorical in their choices, too -76 percent say they would not buy a product from a company that did not share their values. Millennials are more likely than Gen X and baby boomers to

say it matters whether American businesses give back to society and are most likely to recommend such businesses to a friend.

Millennials are more charitable than any other age group, too.

Give.org discovered they were the most likely (60%) of any generation to have donated to hurricane relief after Harvey, Irma and Maria. And as financial site Banrate.com observed, they not only donate money but clothes and food (41%) along with their own time (27%).

This suggests they have embraced empathy as part of their lifestyle.

Consequently, affluent Millennials attach themselves to luxury brands that provide them with a feel-good experience and reflect their ethics. As Sandrine Noël, environment manager at Louis Vuitton, divulged during a panel discussion at the Salon du

Luxe, even the brand’s “VICs,” or Very Important Customers, like actress Emma Watson, request to see a selection of conscious garments, instead

of just going for the look.

The trend is likely to continue.

Millennial parents are seen passing on the same values to their children.

47

REPORT

Millennials. “People now have a direct line to their favorite brands, they can call them out when they are not happy with something,” she says.

Beauty Implications: Green Is In. Generally, it is no longer the price tag that determines the notion of luxury, but the purity of the ingredients. “Natural beauty is the ultimate luxury,” insists Tata Harper, whose eponymous natural skin care label is expected to grow

about 50 percent this year, up from approximately $60 million in sales in 2017. Sarah Coonan, head of beauty at British department store Liberty, says the rise of eco-conscious beauty is largely due to social media and the generation that uses it, mostly

BEAUTYSTREAMS RECOMMENDS: Be part of the rising global demand for cleaner, more transparent products.

Practice philanthropic luxury retail by linking luxury lines to concrete philanthropic causes.

Source premium ingredients through fair trade channels.

Use the origin of ingredients and the cause they support as part of your storytelling.

Integrate the stories of your local artisans into your marketing to add an emotional level to your product lines.

Opt for sustainable packaging, encourage upcycling and promote the “buy less and pay more” principle.

As a premium brand, take a stand on a social cause or political ideal you care about.

Offer your consumers a fun, interactive experience, e.g. via a donation app.

Team with specialists in their respective fields.

48

49

50

THE SELECTIVE EXHIBITION DEDICATED TO LUXURY PACKAGING 28.29.30 MAY 2019 - MILAN FIERAMILANOCITY, PAD. 4

www.packagingpremiere.it

51

EVENTS

This year’s edition will welcome over 200 buyers from 90 leading international purchasing groups (supermarket & hypermarket chains, beauty stores, drugstores, and online shops), qualified distributors and importers, as well as over 120 qualified private label & brand suppliers.

Wabel’s Home beauty & personal care summit is returning this autumn!

suppliers for the top purchasing group-buyers, in terms of market needs and future projects, making the summits matchmaking meetings smooth and efficient.

Suppliers of products in the personal care categories (skincare, haircare, babycare, health and hygiene, fragrance), as well as household specialists (cleaners, laundry care,

next october 16 - 17 2019, Wabel will host the 6th edition of the Home, beauty & Personal Care summit in Paris

Wabel sources for European leading chains and strives to help suppliers boosting their export in other regions such as the USA, Latin America, North Africa, the Middle East, and China. Before this annual Summit, the Wabel experts handpick alternative qualified

52

air fresheners, etc), will all get the boost they need to meet key decision makers to position them for buying projects for 2020.

The focus is on quality, both in terms of raw materials and the manufacturing process.

This year, Wabel will also showcase and introduce expert help on packaging and ingredients with great solutions for both suppliers and buyers.

This will make it easier to provide sustainable and attractive end-products.

120 CONTRACT MANUFACTURER & BRANDS +2000 FACE-TO-FACE MEETINGS 200 BUYERS +90 PURCHASING GROUPS

BEAUTY RETAILERS - ONLINE SHOPS DRUGSTORES - HYPERMARKET CHAINS

SCAN THE QR CODE TO REGISTER

info@wabel.com

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH 53

EVENTS

The 2019 edition of ADF&PCD PARIS, the reference event for the packaging industries, gathered industry professionals from around the world in Paris January 30 and 31 in Porte de Versailles.

ADF&PCD PARIS 2019 an exciting edition reflecting

With positive year-end results for 2018 in the packaging, aerosols and dispensing systems sector, the forecasts for 2019 appear positive

a thriving packaging market The event attracted over 8000 visitors and around 600 exhibitors.

The fair’s success is also based on the rise of international presence with more than 31% of international visitors coming from nearly 80 countries.

Conferences And Highlights The recent edition was highlighted by a prestigious program of conferences where experts and players of the industry from a variety of international companies and brands, including EstĂŠe Lauder, Unilever, Louis Vuitton, GlaxoSmithKline, Kantar Worldpanel, amongst many

54

others, shared their views during talks and round tables. Visitors enjoyed the Accelerator area, a platform dedicated to start-ups and independent brands and a selection of industry newcomers; innovation was widely explored in the Innovation & Technology Theater.

The show highlights also included an area dedicated to Made in France creations, a guided tour where visitors can identify and personally meet French companies promoting French know how and creations, and Eco Tour, an area dedicated to eco-responsible, environmentallyfriendly packaging solutions.

ADF&PCD PARIS and PLD, the place for all packaging professionals to meet up will take place on 29 and 30 January 2020 in PARIS Expo Porte de Versailles.

Prestigious group of Prize winners at ADF and PCD Paris Awards One of the most attended highlight and key feature of the show was the traditional ADF and PCD awards ceremony. The packaging awards aim at highlighting innovation and rewarding the most striking products over the previous year in cosmetics, aerosols and distribution systems recognized across various categories.

Judges assessed around one hundred applications and the supreme award was bestowed by two separate juries composed of brand representatives, experts in packaging, aerosols and dispensers and professional journalists.

Next edition the exhibition will expand to include an exciting new launch: the first international show Packaging of Premium & Luxury Drinks, PLD will run alongside ADF&PCD Paris 2020.

PLD has been designed for professionals working with packaging for wines and spirits and other premium alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages.

o2o ( 365 Days Online Matchmaking ) + B2B + Trade Fair

Concurrent Events

October 2 - 3 - 4, 2019

ICC - Congress Center, Taksim - Istanbul

www.beauty-istanbul.com Tel: +90 212 2229060

|

+90 533 4843030

|

info@beauty-istanbul.com

ne Eve -O The

nt

Organizer

All-i n

for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair, Private Label, Packaging, Ingredients

t& firsnly ld ohe Wor in t

55

EVENTS

latform о2о P

o2o ( 365 Days Online Matchmaking )

B2B & Trade Fair

for Cosmetics, Beauty, Hair

October 2 - 3 - 4, 2019

Private Label, Packaging, Ingredients

ICC - Congress Center, Taksim - Istanbul Access List of Buyers from 150 countries Connect with Buyers Before the Exhibition Pre-Arrange Your Meetings Exclusive to Exhibitors

-One Ev in

Onsite Matchmaking Exclusive to Exhibitors

The

first & only

in the World

nOne Ev

tne

Face-to-face connection with 1000 Selective Hosted Buyers

lA i-l

All -

B2B

Trade Fair

t en

BEAUTYISTANBUL introduces its innovative approach in the events industry with the All-in-One event concept. In addition to the classic trade fair, the unique “o2o Platform” enables its exhibitors to conduct business with buyers prior to the exhibition date, commencing immediately upon registration.

The exhibitors of BEAUTYISTANBUL 2019 have already started trading with over 2,000 buyers registered from 145 countries and there is still 7 months to go for the event.

Convert Your Online Connections to Deals Perfect Event to Launch, Showcase Your Products Meet Top Buyers From 120 Countries

www.beauty-istanbul.com

BEAUTYISTANBUL Not only 3 days, 365 days cosmetics & beauty exhibition!

BEAUTYISTANBUL All-in-One Event, the first and only in the world: o2o (365 days online matchmaking) + B2B Meetings + Trade Fair October 2-3-4, 2019

Waiting until the exhibition to make deals is over!

The “o2o Platform” serves as a 365 days online matchmaking tool for the participants of BEAUTYISTANBUL 2019.

Visitors gain access to the platform immediately upon completing the free online registration on www.beauty-istanbul.com to view exhibitor profiles, browse over 1000 products, send product enquiries, pre-arrange on site meetings and directly communicate through messages with exhibitors.

Official exhibitors of BEAUTYISTANBUL are able to utilize “o2o platform” to browse registered buyer

56

list and buyer profiles, display their products, pre-arrange on site meetings and communicate directly with buyers.

BEAUTYISTANBUL also invests in a special hosted buyer program that will bring around 1,000 delicately selected buyers to the event from all over the world to conduct B2B meetings.

To ensure the quality of the buyers, BEAUTYISTANBUL team connects with over 180 countries via phone calls, e-mails and face-to-face meetings onsite at over 300 events to invite the top importers, purchasers, decision-makers, professionals and managers with high purchasing power from beauty & cosmetics industry.

EVENTS

The most selective buyers from various parts of the world, with a special focus on South and Central America, Sub-Saharan Africa and Southeast Asia, will be provided with travel incentives to be present at BEAUTYISTANBUL 2019.

BEAUTYISTANBUL 2019, the international exhibition for cosmetics, beauty, hair, private label, packaging and ingredients will welcome its professional guests on October 2-3-4, 2019 in Istanbul.

team swiftly continues its work all around the globe to assemble the cosmetics & beauty industry in Istanbul.

Since January 2018, IPEKYOLU International Exhibitions team, the organizer of BEAUTYISTANBUL exhibition, has been striving to attract buyers and visitors from all around the world, showing presence in almost all professional events organized on the national and the

The trade fair will feature 400 exhibitors from 40 countries and over 8000 professional visitors from more than 140 countries and aims to be not only regional but a global cosmetics & beauty event.

In addition to cosmetics and beauty, the exhibition covers packaging, ingredients, private label, hair, machinery, nail care, home care and baby care sectors as well with a special focus on bringing buyers from Africa, South America and South East Asia in addition to the local market and regional markets such as Europe, Balkans, CIS, Middle East, Central Asia and North Africa.

We proudly declare that throughout 2018, the BEAUTYISTANBUL team showed exceptional performance and was promoted in 97 countries, 117 cities and 308 events like no other exhibition in the world!

Proven by 20 years of experience, IPEKYOLU International Exhibitions

international level to build business relationships and collaborations.

BEAUTYISTANBUL team which is consisted of 25 permanent and 181 temporary staff from 51 different nationalities contacted more than 134,000 industry professionals face-to-face in 2018, inviting them to the 2019 exhibition to benefit from the business opportunities that BEAUTYISTANBUL 2019 will provide.

As impossible as it sounds, with the passion and dedication of 206 collaborators, BEAUTYISTANBUL conducted an unmatched promotion performance even before the new year began.

Visited locations included emerging markets for cosmetics and beauty industry such as Brazil, Panama, Cuba, Mexico, Bolivia, Ecuador, Chile, Colombia and Costa Rica in South America; Benin, Chad, Djibouti, Ivory Coast, Kenya,

Madagascar, Mali, Senegal, Nigeria, Tanzania and Togo in Africa; Cambodia, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Singapore and Thailand in South East Asia.

In addition to these special focus regions, BEAUTYISTANBUL conducted on site activities in regional markets such as Bulgaria, Croatia, Latvia, Lithuania, Moldova, Macedonia, Romania, Poland, Russia, Ukraine and Belarus in Eastern Europe; Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan in Central Asia; Egypt, Iran, Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates, Lebanon and Kuwait in Middle East on top of Arabic speaking countries such as Morocco, Algeria and Libya and many more cities in Europe and Asia.

Promotion activities resume at full pace going into 2019, featuring the BEAUTYISTANBUL at several events in Tokyo, Nairobi, Paris and Dubai simultaneously during January.

BEAUTYISTANBUL will continue to be present at sectoral events all around the world in 2019 from Havana to Jakarta, DĂźsseldorf to Cairo, New York to Mumbai, Moscow to Casablanca and in many more destinations in every continent.

57

EVENTS

2018 was very positive with a successful first edition of MakeUp in Shanghai. Los Angeles, Paris, New York and Seoul editions were also acclaimed by both exhibitors and visitors as each show met their needs and expectations.

2018 also confirmed the substantial synergies betwen the Luxe Pack and

MakeUp in is a passion to live without moderation!

A colorful and eventful year has ended with a lot of challenges for MakeUp in MakeUp in shows; both organized by the Inforpro Digital group while keeping their respective identities and DNA. What an amazing way to share savoir-faire and experience with the Shanghai and Los Angeles participants.

And if we are talking numbers: 458 exhibitors and 15.324 vistors were present – 6,790 of which attended the conferences - and lived the MakeUp in experience first hand!

Obviously, quantity is not the only marker and neither numbers nor words could describe the incredible atmosphere, and each one of the guests has contributed to the shows’ life and momentum!

As organizers, MakeUp in prides on keeping the focus on high-level service and aims to be close to all the participants – exhibitors, visitors, speakers, journalists… - more and more and even after over 30 editions and 5 shows across the world.

58

With a whole New Year ahead, a world of opportunities and endeavors is opening for MakeUp in.

Even though it is still early days, this New Year is already filled with a bustling energy created by a very entousiastic team full of ideas!

That goes without saying, but the adventure goes on, at an even higher intensity! When the very first MakeUp in Paris was created, in 2010, the ambition was to help the global makeup industry grow to exceptional levels. The market did not fail MakeUp in when it came to bringing new opportunities: global makeup sales grew 35% from 2010 to 2018!

2019 is also the year of changes in MakeUp in corporate identity that transcribes the right balance between MakeUp in spirit, energy and the dynamism of the beauty world.

Each show has now its own color, representing its unique market.

The new artwork will be unveiled at MakeUp in LosAngeles; the first event of the year where the number of pre-registered visitors has doubled compared to 2018. In the dynamic and inventive West Coast market, the focus is on the "Green Movement in Beauty" for this 4th edition with conferences dedicated to eco-design.

Following on West Coast, the focus will be on Asia: the second event of the year, MakeUp in Shanghai has already

registered 30% more exhibitors than last year and forms with MakeUp in Seoul, taking place a few days later, a temple of innovation in the Asian market. An intense and diverse program that covers all areas of this fascinating region – beauty wise.

And it's in the heart of the Carrousel du Louvre that MakeUp in Paris, the showcase of French know-how, creativity and French luxury, will celebrate its 10th edition. This year, a convivial program of activities is planned, including an exceptional private tour of the Louvre! MakeUp in NewYork in September will remain the American flagship of the makeup and skin-care industry. Organized on the most beautiful avenue in New York City, it is a token of all the City’s energy.

And yes, MakeUp in is a passion to live without any moderation!

MakeUp in is a unique place where you can find everything that goes in make-up and skin-care product and make your own line, advised and guided by the savoir-faire of the most qualified experts in the industry.

Whatever your project is, you can find the best contact and the best information first hand – be it innovations on the Innovation Tree or trends with the Color Wave and our conferences.

Celebrate with us 2019 June 20|21

PARIS

Carrousel du Louvre MakeUp in Paris is the exclusive BtoB event with global make-up and skincare offers from ingredients, formulation, design, packaging, accessories to full service suppliers.

makeup-in-paris.com @MakeUpinWorld MakeUp in

@MakeUpinWorld

@MakeUpInWorld

@makeupin_world @makeupin_world

in

@MakeUp in

59

REPORT

60

VALERIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Having spent over twenty years working with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances, Valerie has extensive knowledge and practical experience of their supply, distribution and retail, pertinent commercial practices and consumer habits on a global and local basis.

Her expertise has been highly valued by multi-national organizations, SMEs, start-ups, privately owned companies and financial investors.

Certified in Corporate Governance from INSEAD Business School, Valerie has the remarkable ability to successfully set the company’s strategic direction, often across diverse product markets and geographies, and monitor the firm’s risk profile.

As a qualified Non-Executive Director who was awarded the prestigious Financial Times Post-Graduate Diploma, Valerie Kaminov is highly trained in corporate governance and is an experienced NED and Director enabling her to have an holistic understanding of boards.

She advises both as a consultant and an NED. Valerie’s experience earned her a reputation with major players in the industry who hired her to establish them globally.

Her expertise in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth has been highly valued by Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors.

She is also dedicated to passing her knowledge along through a range of conferences and events.

Valerie has been a guest speaker at the non-profit organization CEW’ Mentoring Services where leading executives offer insights into beauty industry issues and inspiration for professional growth.

As the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) Master of Ceremony, Valerie organizes one of its kind conference in Europe, key global gathering for manufacturers, brand owners and distributors to come together and discuss the challenges facing the industry and their businesses by giving the attendees unlimited networking opportunities.

Indie Beauty Shaping the Future of the Industry Consumers are increasingly demanding transparency and are becoming more and more conscious of what they put in and on their bodies.

Hence, going green is a growing trend.

Today, almost 50% of consumers are giving natural beauty products a try.

The Soil Association recently highlighted that “Consumers are asking more questions about sustainability and are putting ethical matters into their purchasing criteria.

It’s the antidote to conspicuous consumption.

There is huge consumer appetite to know more about what green and natural actually is.

The industry has been at the mercy of green washing for so long now that the organic message has got lost.”

According to Euromonitor, the indie beauty category is booming with independent beauty brands

slowly chipping away at the market share of beauty corporations.

Sales in natural health and beauty products have increased by over 20% in 2016.

In the UK alone, the market is worth £61.2 million.

This outstanding growth demonstrates the sheer demand for green beauty products and will keep growing, both in the UK and on international markets.

Experts estimate that the global market should be worth US$22 billion by 2025.

In other words, there has never been a better time to jump into the Indie beauty business. Indie brands are among the fastest growing product categories.

They have become the gold standard in almost every retailer’s collection and are now directly influencing key trends in their markets.

Going green is a growing trend. Today, almost 50% of consumers are giving natural beauty products a try

REPORT

The Revolution of Indie Beauty You may or may not be familiar with the term, Indie beauty. In light of this recent boom, International Luxury Brand Consultancy would like to take the opportunity to talk about the ins, outs, and in-betweens of indie brands and why they’re becoming so popular. So, what exactly is an indie beauty brand? For those who don’t know it’s simply a brand that is independently owned and whose funds come exclusively from the owner himself or herself.

But that’s not it. Indie brands are so much more than that. Most of the times, these brands are born from the founder desire to address a cause that he or she believes in and is passionate about. It’s about sharing this passion with the consumers. In other words, indie brands are a lifestyle and community: they have a heart and soul that consumers can see in the products they buy. They often focus on healing and caring. Indie brands are driven by a passion for quality, for sustainability, for long-term value of the products and for community. Consistently discouraged by how many mainstream products were laden with harmful chemicals, Indie beauty imbues each products with a positive affirmation by offering cruelty-free and paraben-free makeup and skincare that is gentle on the skin.

This means a careful process of selection of ingredients, packaging design and marketing messages that truly showcase the company’s identity and values it stands for.

Indie brands, unlike mass-market ones, have complete control over ingredients including harvesting processes. Founded to address a niche shortcoming in the market, indie companies always create close relationships with their product development laboratories to ensure the highest quality and value of every ingredient found in their products.

Indie brands are increasingly winning over consumers who are slowly shifting from a mass-market consumption to a more environmentally sustainable one.

Honesty and transparency – usually hard to find with big corporations-owned brands - are among the reasons for this increasing success.

As opposed to mass-market brands, indie ones are built upon the idea of fulfilling specific needs of their audience and are committed to using all natural and organic ingredients and by banning the use of the most common ingredients that have been linked to health concerns such as Benzalkonium Chloride and Dimethicone.

Because they are driven by passion, indie brands successfully manage to relate to and empathize with their consumers all the while creating authentic stories.

Active listening and implementing consumer feedback is key to indie brands’ success story: the audience finally has a voice.

Why? Indie brands have been created by consumers for consumers. In other words, they are the reason for the companies’ emergence.

The Indie Beauty Expo There's no better way to keep up-to-date with the industry than by attending a trade show.

If you want to spot the trends set to impact the industry before your competitors then save the date on your agenda because there is so much you can benefit from when attending an exhibition.

For any business, especially small ones, trade shows can provide an effective way of increasing your brand awareness, getting your product out in front of a target audience and meeting with current and/or potential clients.

Trade shows can also be a great networking platform.

With hundreds of brands, thousands of registered media, analysts, and potential customers under just one roof, a trade show can easily become overwhelming if not thoroughly planned in advance.

Moreover, there are simply too many shows to attend so you definitely need to do a bit of research before planning your visit.

Whether you’re hoping to learn about some of the most well-known brands in the indie beauty realm, or you’re excited to witness the latest launches of the year, the Indie Beauty Expo is the place to go.

Founded in 2015 to support the growth and success of indie brands and the entrepreneurs behind them, the Indie Beauty Expo has given hundreds of brands a platform to network with each other, promote their newest launches, and tell their stories.

The Indie Beauty Expo started out in New York City and has since expanded to Los Angeles, Dallas and London.

The show, which connects indie brands with potential buyers, press, consumers and investors has seen over than 200 brands exhibiting from all across Europe, South Africa, New Zealand, Thailand and Bali.

With over 14 different categories ranging from colour cosmetics, to fragrances and skin care, there is something for everyone.

61

REPORT

The Indie Beauty Expo has given hundreds of brands a platform to network with each other, promote their newest launches, and tell their stories

Indie Beauty Innovations To Keep An Eye On Every day, Indie Beauty becomes increasingly more popular. Here are the three top trends that International Luxury Brand Consultancy Ltd spotted after this year’s Indie Beauty Expo that signal what’s coming next in fragrance, skincare, cosmetics and personal care.

As consumers become increasingly conscious and aware about their health (both mental and physical), Indie beauty brands coming up with incredible ways to embed wellness into their personal care products. This inner-outer beauty connection is promoted by beauty supplements including marine collagen and brain dust. Retailers including Sephora and Nordstrom are increasingly following the trend and stocking shelves with the latest innovations from Indie brands. Vitamins, from protein powders to probiotics, and essential oils are also increasingly becoming popular with vitam retailers trying to enhance their store experiences which weren’t that appealing until now. They are now doing their best to appeal to modern consumers and offer them wider arrays of products.

Take cannabis for instance, which is becoming increasingly integrated in beauty and is commonly used in Indie products.

Brands such as Cannabliss Organic and Crave Skincare are up-and-coming brands that offer luxury cannabis-based skincare products and that have been praised for their incredible benefits at the Indie Beauty Expo.

As the beauty-from-within movement is increasingly gaining attention, consumers are also increasingly demanding inclusivity and innovation in beauty rituals.

62

Historically, beauty brands have targeted women but things are slowly starting to change. A more male-focused beauty market – also known as boy beauty – is appearing with men’s personal care product lines and gender neutral makeup brands emerging.

But inclusivity doesn’t stop there.

This year Indie Beauty Expo showcased a wide array of brands targeting broader audiences from babies to children and adults.

Innovation in beauty rituals was also a major theme of this year’s expo.

Brands inspired by Chinese beauty rituals and herbal remedies are starting to gain great traction in the West.

K-beauty and J-beauty have also grown in popularity with Western consumers.

Beauty traditions from other countries including India are also starting to emerge in Western markets. More precisely, Ayurvedic beauty brands inspired

by India’s ancient beauty rituals are making traditional Indian medicinal and beauty rituals accessible to Western consumers.

Last but not the least, big tech companies are increasingly tapping into opportunities across the beauty industry and more precisely in Indie beauty. Becoming more aggressive in the beauty space is one of their top priority for 2019. To many surprise, Alibaba was spotted having a booth at the Indie Beauty Expo with a desire to increasingly partner with Western indie brands and bring their lines to the Chinese consumers.

To better guide cosmetics sales, attract more and more customers to buy beauty products on their platforms and curate personal shopping experiences, shopping tech giants such as Amazon – who recently launched its Indie Beauty e-store featuring among

the best brands in the sector – are using their massive data sets on consumer purchasing habits and preferences.

Consumers are becoming increasingly conscious and aware about their health (both mental and physical).

People are more and more interested in natural beauty products that contain ingredients such as vitamin C, seaweed, oatmeal, honey, macadamia and coconut to name just a few. As consumers become more educated on the ingredients, they are progressively becoming reluctant about using mass-market (but not only) beauty products containing nasty chemicals such as parabens, PEGs, sodium lauryl sulphate and fragrances.

According to PETA there has been a 360% increase in the number of vegans in the UK alone over the last 10 years. Demand for products certified vegans and cruelty-free is booming and driving the trend of increasing sales of Indie Beauty. Environment is also playing a key role in the rise of the sector.

In 2017, Cosmetics Europe issued a warning about the use of micro beads after Green Peace showed that the latter were not only polluting the ocean but also the food chain.

Mega beauty brands and companies have pledged to end the use of plastic micro beads in products and replace it with natural alternatives by 2020. But consumers have doubts and are shifting towards Indie brands as they perceive the latter as more honest and transparent. Indie beauty is therefore booming.

The vital thing is to have people that are passionate about working in this niche segment. It’s not about a trend or a fashion. It’s all about passion and full-commitment from both the brand, the retailers and the consumer.

For more information on how IL Brand Consultancy can help you tap into this new opportunity, different markets, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk

INTERVIEW

GIOVANNI RASPINI beauty dresses in silver Meeting Giovanni Raspini at the head office of the company of the same name was like making an imaginary journey in time. From Pieve al Toppo, in the heart of Tuscany, the breeze of creativity blew us into a dream-like world of exotic animals, sea monsters, unique objects of every size, underlining the great creativity of a strongly Italian brand.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Can you tell us how you entered the world of silver…

GIOVANNI RASPINI: Although I am an architect, I have always been attracted by the world of jewellery, which I have never considered as inanimate objects, but as an extension and exaltation of the concept of beauty.

Beauty for me has many meanings, it is the expression of face, the purity that we find in nature, it

is the force of an expression, but also an object that from inanimate seems to become alive…

In 1985, I took over an existing silver firm, with a considerable technological capacity and great craftsmanship.

We added the elements that were lacking, the creative part in the first place and, inevitably, the commercial part. We started by producing charms, and putting them on chains and bracelets.

I am sorry to disappoint those who think that they are a product of the Victorian age; charms have always existed in history; small narrative, evocative and at times superstitious jewels: the “cornino”, the horseshoe, the four-leafed clover, the elephant. From charms, which represented at the beginning our company capital, we moved on to the creation of silver jewellery.

EM: Why this preference for silver?

GR: Silver, as well as being precious, has the ductility, the malleability and light. It is a material to be worked ‘en grisaille’, in chiaroscuro but in monochrome; it can be enhanced by adding coloured stones, enamels or corals.

Compared to gold, silver stands out for black and white and its ability to develop light, by polishing it, and shadows, by oxidising certain parts.

This is why the beauty of silver is chiaroscuro, where the bas-relief gains life thanks to an effect of lights and shadows.

EM: How does a piece of silver jewellery come into being?

GR: Thanks to one of our specializations called “lost wax casting”, a procedure which in our area has been used for about 2000/3000 years…

I am referring to the small bronze sculptures of the Etruscans and of the Romans.

A sculpture is made, large or small, in wax, which will then be melted; only a single object can come from this wax; we can obtain serial production using moulds, however, a single object will always correspond to a single wax.

63

INTERVIEW

We define ourselves as “wax modeller”.

We cannot define ourselves as sculptors, as to make a sculpture material is removed, whereas in wax modelling, contrary to wood, marble and ivory, material can be added.

The procedure is interesting: droplets of wax are taken and gradually added, with the possibility of having second thoughts.

Naturally, our production department carries out all the other silverware techniques, repoussé, chisel work, hammering and die casting.

EM: Observing some of your jewellery, we can see unlimited creativity...

GR: Our stylistic characteristic is to create objects with great richness, beauty, force and passion are the focal points of our expressiveness, the descriptive capacity is the disruptive force of our company, and to express it we create two collections a year, followed by a third summer collection.

However, I underline the importance of the quality of the plastic modelled, of the sculpture, and we have collaborations for this both inside and outside the company.

The next phase is that of casting.

64

EM: What is the subject of the Spring-Summer collection?

GR: The subject is ‘The Jewellery of Captain Nemo’s Submarine’.

In fact the topic is the pieces linked to the marvels of the sea.

The Nautilus collection is officially presented in Milan on 14th March and is on display for three days running at the Palazzo Visconti.

We are presenting ‘Nautilus’, a bronze submarine measuring 132 cm. x 78 cm., the result of the collaboration between Giovanni Raspini and the multifaceted artist Giancarlo Fulgenzi, whose great creativity, together with his ‘expertise’ we all admire.

No material resists him and the working was complex, from the initial design to the individual parts, up to the grand finale of this factory of dreams.

A tentacular and monstrous octopus that grips the Nautilus, letting our imagination run wild in the “Twenty thousand leagues under the sea” of our childhood memories.

The Nautilus, which will be the object of an itinerant exhibition, represents a concept which is very dear to me, that of dualism.

Between organic and mechanic, between natural and artificial, between spontaneous and constructed.

C.S.

EVENTS

NAUTILUS adventure, imagination and creativity

Inspired by fascinating themes such as the treasures of the sea, the world of science fiction, the great discoveries, the journey of nowhere, the technology of the late nineteenth century, the universal exhibitions and fashion between Art Nouveau and Liberty, Giovanni Raspini has developed all his ability in storytelling, to create amazing jewels and dreamlike objects. Like the only and unique piece of Nautilus submarine in bronze, born from the cooperation of Giancarlo Fulgenzi, the Tuscan artist that, after a long career of 70 years expressing himself

To complete the exhibition the four Busts of the sea’s divinities, deriving from the iconography of Venetian Moors, reinterpreted in a contemporary and seafaring key, made in black wood and bronzobianco.

Giovanni Raspini and Giancarlo Fulgenzi

in so many disciplines, defines himself ‘a simple artisan’. Nautilus has been developed from his mind and hands in a long process lasted four months.

The important jewels created by Giovanni Raspini and protagonists of the exhibition held in Milan in March, a total of 14 elements, are all unique pieces: necklaces with pearls and corals, bronzobianco and silver architectures with intriguing scenic designs, including the Portholes necklace that reproduces a miniature Nautilus like the one made by Giancarlo Fulgenzi.

Giancarlo Fulgenzi

65

INTERVIEW

COSMETICS make-up beyond NEWS all expectations for the most

demanding consumers

Interview with Erik Indikov, Cosmetics News creator and CEO

We met Erik Indikov in Moscow at Intercharm where he was presenting his new make-up line, Cosmetic News, for the first time. An elegant all-black stand where a few products were highlighted, stood out.

Open with unique colours and compositions, closed in an elegant and sophisticated packaging, in velvet sachets. The originality of his line has aroused enormous curiosity and interest; Erik Indikov is without a doubt the most renowned make-up artist in Russia and in the neighbouring countries; a consultant to the most important international brands, he is also an appreciated painter. Now his name is on a line all of his own.

EXPORT MAGAZINE: Erik, you are a very well-known make-up artist and you have worked for the best brands on the market.

Where did you get the idea of creating your own line of make-up from?

ERIK INDIKOV: I wanted to offer products that were a real innovation, because this is what the clientele I address want: they are definitely positioned in a very high segment of the market.

Coming out with a new brand, in my opinion, means above all not offering products that are the copy of others or that follow fashions or trends. It is no coincidence that my brand is called Cosmetics News, it is a new story to be told that is renewed every day, like the news in a newspaper and new in terms of formulations, ingredients and ways of using the products.

66

EM: What are the needs you started out from?

EI: From those expressed over many years by the consumers I have met, always looking for something new.

This is why I have decided to introduce my touch, my expertise, partly upsetting the rules of make-up.

A lipstick applied on top of lip gloss, for example, a multifunctional blush put on various parts of the face, new terminology, for example sculpting, to explain products with a new approach and innovative ingredients.

It is possible to obtain impeccable make-up, giving a new touch.

Another need of the consumer is that of using products which guarantee maximum performances, with a fast application.

This is possible and, through the special leaflets in the products, in the catalogue of Cosmetics News which is also written in the form of a newspaper. I give all the suggestions for make-up that is fast and... wow! You have to be able to play with the products, just as a painter does with his palette of colours. For example, cream eye shadow is very much in demand but in a short time it can melt. I have invented a system that first of all requires applying an eye contour cream, and then the application of colour through the “lead” of the pencil, which is broken.

EM: We can deduce that you give great importance to communication with the consumer…

EI: The brand focuses a great deal on communication, in which I firmly believe. On our site, there are videos, tutorials, which explain how to use the various products step by step. Only knowing how to use certain products, is the consumer motivated for the purchase.

The products that are beautiful, but similar to so many others and not clear in how they are used, do not attract the clientele.

EM: Why do you insist on offering multifunctional products?

EI: The consumer I am addressing is very demanding, she is willing to spend but prefers having a few multifunctional products in her make-up bag. There is a single compact – I am referring for example to our multifunctional trio – with which the client can be offered a complete beauty routine.

Of course, they are products which technically are not easy to make, but once they are ‘pinpointed’ from the point of view of the feasibility of the formula and production, they are then easy to use.

And to do all this I have found a valid ally: BKolor…

EM: WE have noticed that you have put the name BKolor on the packaging of the products.

Why? And how did the collaboration with the Italian company come about?

EI: I went to Cosmopack Asia in Hong Kong looking for suppliers that understood my needs.

INTERVIEW

who have followed the birth of Cosmetic News almost on a day-to-day basis, rejoicing with my team and myself at the creation of every product.

At the BKolor stand, I met Mario De Luigi, Vice-President of the company and himself a makeup artist.

I realized immediately - I think I have a good nose! - that I had found a company dedicated to innovation and creativity that suited me perfectly, capable to starting off from a creative concept to complete a project on which to work and experiment, until a final solution was reached.

I found a team of dedicated and reliable people. I thank in particular Francesco Savoca and the whole team at BKolor

EM: We noticed that you give great importance to accessories; the brushes that you offer are not mere brushes… when you use them, blending the colours on the consumers’ faces, they accompany the gesture of your hand as though they were its continuation…

EI: I have produced, once again with an Italian company, personalized brushes, characterized by a special shape, thanks to which the consumer can obtain perfect make-up. Thanks to the shape of the various brushes, it is possible, with only one passage,

to give intensity, colour and a release of the right amount of product, with the guarantee that it is long-lasting.

Let me tell you a little secret: with a beard trimmer, I can section the brushes in a way suitable for use.

We will obtain a functional

eye-liner, which can be used on the lips as well as on the eyes.

An eye liner can be applied for the eye contour, as a base for eye shadow, to give a particular colour to mascara.

By turning the rules of make-up upside-down, new younger and fresher results can be obtained.

EM: You have a refined sense of aesthetics, and you have expressed it in every detail that characterizes the Cosmetics News line, from the product to the personalized box and from the beautiful velvet sachet that holds it. What do you attribute this search for perfection to?

EI: I like people to be amazed when they see my products.

And for this to happen, you have to be attentive to the tiniest details without missing anything.

The fact of presenting a product and finding that people are overjoyed by it is positive feedback.

The line looks good, has a story to tell and is easy to use.

EM: What is the positioning of the line?

EI: It is a premium positioning.

Cosmetics News can be sold in those points of sale that can show the client all its power and how it works. It is only a few months old but the reaction of the consumers at the moment is beyond all our expectations.

C.S.

67

EVENTS

New technologies and sustainability are causing disruption in the cosmetic & personal care industry. Cosmetic brands and ingredient firms are investing in a raft of green initiatives, whilst technology is influencing raw materials, production processes, and distribution.

Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Disruptive Influence of Sustainability

and Technology on Cosmetics Industry

Such developments will be featured in the next Sustainable Cosmetics Summit (http://www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com).

The tenth North American edition of the executive summit will be hosted in New York on 8-10th May 2019. Packaging pollution has become a major environmental issue for cosmetic & consumer goods industries, with about 300 millions of tonnes of plastic waste generated each year. Andrew Dent, Executive Vice President of Material Connexion will host a workshop on Reducing Packaging Impacts.

Highlighting industry best-practices, he will guide cosmetic & personal care brands on how to make their packaging more sustainable. Shane Wolf, General Manager of Seed Phytonutrients, will show how the brand is using novel packaging made from post-consumer paper.

68

Launched on Earth Day 2018, Seed Phytonutrients are marketed as ‘farm-to-bottle’ beauty products as the company is sourcing organic ingredients directly from American farmers. Aveda has been implementing green initiatives since its formation in 1978.

Melissa Chelminiak will give some insights into how it is addressing its environmental and social impacts. The company has won many awards (including Sustainability Leadership at 2017 Sustainable Beauty Awards) in recognition for programs involving ethical sourcing, renewable energy, product design, and responsible packaging.

Other topics covered in the opening session (Sustainability Developments) include regenerative agriculture, methodologies to measure impacts, social risks in supply chains, and retailing case study. New Technologies are having a disruptive influence on production, processing and / or traceability of ingredients, as well as marketing of finished products.

An update will be given on how plant cell technology is creating novel actives, as well as sustainable processing methods.

Philip Prather from Down Under Enterprises will use Australian sandalwood as an example

on how technology is being used to provide traceability for raw materials. Another speaker will discuss the opportunities provided by artificial intelligence; other topics include mobile apps for sustainable cosmetics, social media marketing success stories, and marketing implications of new technologies. Green materials continue to make headway into cosmetic & personal care products, however there are some concerns about the long-term implications. Serena Pozza from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation will discuss the role of such materials in a circular economy. How can existing personal care ingredients be adapted for repeat use? How can truly sustainable chemicals be created? Dr. Ellen Kamhi will give an update on the growing array of natural ingredients used in functional skincare products. Other speakers will discuss new materials from food side streams, natural ingredients for hair care products, and innovating with green materials.

The Sustainable Cosmetics Summit will be hosted at Park Central Hotel New York on 6- 8th May. By focusing on new technologies and sustainability developments, the summit aims to help operators realize opportunities created by their disruption.

INTERNATIONAL EVENTS IN COSMETICS & PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY SECTIONS BUSINESS MEETINGS ASIA:

A MATCHMAKING PLATFORM FOR INTERNATIONAL BRANDS TO MEET THE MASTER IMPORTERS AND RETAILERS FROM CHINA AND OTHER ASIAN COUNTRIES.

CHINA COSMETICS RETAIL SUMMIT:

PROVIDING THE INSIGHTS TO HELP COSMETICS STORES LOOK GET AND KEEP THE HIGH-VALUE CONSUMERS THROUGH NEW MARKETING STRATEGY

N5 HALL – FASHION DISTRICT:

AN IN-DEPTH INTERPRETATION OF INTERNATIONAL FASHION BEAUTY AND PREMIUM PERFUME

INTERNATIONAL COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY FORUM:

AN INTERACTIVE PLATFORM FOR HIGH-END BRANDS, PROFESSIONAL ORGANIZATIONS AND INDUSTRY EXPERTS SHARING THE LATEST MEDICAL AESTHETICS AND ANTI-AGING CONCEPTS AND KNOWLEDGE.

SPA AND MEDICAL AESTHETICS COOPERATION SUMMIT:

PROVIDING THE INSIGHTS OF COMBINATION OF SPA AND MEDICAL AESTHETICS ORGANIZATIONS.

69

EVENTS

In 2018, CBE’s parent company, Informa Group, acquired UBM Group, making Informa the world’s largest beauty expo organizer.

As the leading beauty show of Informa Group, China Beauty Expo (CBE) has been important indicator of growth in the industry since its launch in 1998.

For CBE, 2019 marks another step forward as it brings together Professional Beauty, Cosmetics, Cosmetech – the beauty supply chain to create one of the world’s largest platform for beauty innovation.

China' s Beauty industry continues to ride the wave One of CBE’s three core sections, CBE Cosmetics section promises to connect buyers and sellers across the beauty industry.

CBE’s Cosmetics Section 2019 Sneak Peek CBE 2019 will open in May with 280,000 square meters of exhibition space, 10,000 beauty brands, 50 summits and forums onsite, and hundreds of thousands of beauty professionals from around the world.

70

• New Policies Promoting the Imported Cosmetics From July 1st, 2018, the State Council executive meeting decided to further reduce the import tariffs on consumer goods.

Among them, the average import tariff rate on detergent products and cosmetic products such as skin care, hair products decrease from 8.4% to 2.9%.

Unprecedented tax reduction is undoubtedly promoting imported cosmetics.

With the reduction of import tariffs and the increasing demand of “high-end beauty” products, the development trend of imported cosmetics in China is obviously increasing.

Imported cosmetics account for 38% of total retail sales, of which skin care products account for about 35% (imported skin care products such as facial moisturizing, mask, lotions rank in the top three, occupying about 70%).

Make-up accounted for about 42% and its growth rate remains above 20%.

On November 10th, 2018, China’s new regulations covering the registration of imported cosmetics for non-special purposes became effective across China. China’s new regulations mean that an international cosmetics manufacturer will be able to file an online registration through the China Food and Drug Administration’s website.

Once the manufacturer receives the electronic registration confirmation and certificate then it can import its products.

EVENTS

• Continued Boom in Imported Beauty Products 2018 saw the continued rise in cosmetics imports in China.

China Customs data indicates that the value of imported cosmetics topped RMB 60 billion during the first 11 months of 2018. This marked a 69.9% year-on-year increase.

Mirroring this growth, CBE expects to see an unprecedented boom in imported brands during the coming year. International brands currently dominate 50% of exhibition space.

Exhibitors include brand owners, dealers, importers, manufacturers and cross-border e-commerce platforms.

Among all the 20 international country pavilions in CBE, Thailand will be CBE 2019’s Country of Honor and host a special pavilion for Thailand inside Hall E7.

Thai bands have exhibited at CBE since 2009. CBE 2018 featured Thai brands including Mistine, Snail White, Beauty Buffet, Babalah, Royal Vivskin, and Jula’s Herb.

• Media: Multiple Platforms Maximize Coverage Across the Industry In 2019, CBE will lead cosmetics companies to expand their global online marketing efforts and increase their level of online engagement.

CBE will work with Alibaba, Tencent, JD, NetEase, Amazon, Red, VIP.com, and suning.com to enable buyers to place orders directly at the expo. In addition, CBE will promote coverage of its 2019 show through its social

media, Websites, Weibo account, official publications, trade media partners, fashion and financial media, mass media, as well as to industry experts, KOLs, and online celebrities.

• Forums Empower the Retail and Beauty Industry CBE 2019 will also host more than 50 forums and sessions to share the latest breakthroughs and trends in the beauty industry.

On May 19, 2019, the 9th China Cosmetics Retail Summit will open with the theme of “Focus on Value to Empower Retail”.

This event will bring together cosmetics manufacturers and retailers from across China, Asia, and beyond to share best practices in the beauty retail industry.

CBE’s professional beauty section brings together an unrivaled set of trade opportunities for salons, spas, and beauty service providers across China In 2019, CBE will add High-end Medical Beauty Hall to expand the scope of CBE’s Professional Beauty exhibition and help visitors capture a greater piece of China’s growing RMB 220 billion medical beauty market.

CBE 2019’s Professional Beauty will host a range of events including the 2019 International Cosmetic Dermatology Forum, the SPA and Medical Aesthetics Cooperation Summit, and the 3rd International Medical Cosmetology Innovation Forum.

CBE 2019’s Professional Beauty exhibition will also highlight the expansion, internationalization and upscaling of its professional beauty segment. It will include the Asia Manicure and Lash Care Alliance, association that combines the resources of China, Japan, South Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Macao, and 10 ASEAN countries.

The 2019 Asia Nail & Lash Care Art Culture Festival is poised to become the new center of manicure and lash care culture in Asia.

The 2019 CBE Embroidery Beautification Summit will attract leading professionals from around the world.

The 2019 China and Japan Nail and Lash Care Technical Exchange Session will invite influential industry figures to give demonstrations.

The 2019 Yuerong Award Eve will bring together thousands of beauty brand leaders and professional from 34 provinces and municipalities in mainland China, Hong Kong, Macau, and Taiwan.

71

EVENTS

CBE’s cosmetech – beauty supply chain section represents the beauty factory of the world China Beauty Expo’s supply chain exhibition, COSMETECH, truly represents the beauty factory of the world. This year, COSMETECH included packaging, formulations, machinery, OEM, ingredients, accessories and services, representing a third of the total China Beauty Expo space with over 1, 200 exhibitors.

N6 Advanced Science & Innovation (AS&I) Hall will continue to cooperate with IFSCC, Japan-China Cosmetic Exchange Association, SDCTA to share the latest intelligence on beauty ingredients. Moreover, AS&I will have the new player, IKW - The German Cosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association, to share the safety assessment training which

supports the application of cosmetics legislation. Leading suppliers such as BASF, DSM, SYMRISE etc. will be featured in the Advanced Science and Innovation Hall. They will meet with local professional visitors and

targeted purchasers from Chinese and ASEAN cosmetics manufacturers.

Exhibitor categories in Hall N6 include personal care ingredients and raw materials, home care and cleaning ingredients and raw materials, and laboratory and product services.

Here, the latest innovations and cutting-edge products have been developed to meet the market needs.

SAVE THE DATE: China Beauty Expo 2019, 20-22 May 2019 More information about China’s beauty market and China Beauty Expo, please visit www.chinabeautyexpo.com or contact Ms. Olivia LIU, Olivia.liu@informa.com

72

THE INTERNATIONAL COSMETICS SUPPLY CHAIN SUMMIT：

CONNECTING COSMETIC PURCHASERS AND PRODUCT DEVELOPERS WITH GLOBAL HIGH-END GROUPS AND LOCAL TRENDY SUPPLIERS SUCH AS DUPONT (USA), INTERCOS (IT), FIABILA (FR), ETC TO SHARE LATEST INNOVATIONS AND EMERGING FASHION TRENDS

ADVANCED SCIENCE AND INNOVATION FORUM：

A CENTER FOR SCIENTIFIC EXCHANGE WITHIN CHINA’S FAST-GROWING BEAUTY INDUSTRY WITH THE PARTNERSHIP WITH IFSCC

HALL N4 – PREMIUM PACKAGING：

COVERING FIVE MAJOR INDUSTRY SEGMENTS, INCLUDING PREMIUM PACKAGING AND COLORS, CREATIVITY DESIGN TRENDS, AND THE FUTURE FACTORY. DOZENS OF LEADING INTERNATIONAL ARTISTS JOINED THIS EVENT, BRINGING IMPROVEMENTS AND SOLUTIONS TO NUMEROUS BRANDS.

HALL N6 – ADVANCED SCIENCE & INNOVATION HALL：

SHARING THE LATEST INTELLIGENCE ON BEAUTY INGREDIENTS WITH LEADING SUPPLIERS SUCH AS SYMRISE, DSM, ASHLAND, GREENTECH, AND MERCK

73

EVENTS

15th International Cosmetics, Beauty, and Hair Exhibition Beauty Eurasia, which is organized

by Platform Uluslararası Fuarcılık operating under ITE Turkey, will be held between the dates of June 20-22, 2019 at Istanbul Expo Center and welcome its visitors with the support of Ministry of Commerce.

The Ministry of Commerce, supporting qualified domestic exhibitions in various industries with international recognition, provided support for the beauty and cosmetics industry for the first time this year.

Beauty Eurasia became the first and only cosmetics and beauty exhibition to benefit from this 50 percent support.

For the first time,

BeautyEurasia will be supported by the 2019 Ministry of Commerce • ITE Turkey, the organizer of outstanding exhibitions in the leading industries of Turkey, will leave its mark in 2019 with BeautyEurasia which will be held for the 15th time this year.

• BeautyEurasia, the international meeting point of the beauty industry, was supported by the Ministry of Commerce for the first time this year.

The ministry will provide 50 percent support for the costs of promotional activities of the exhibitors from Turkey.

• BeautyEurasia, which brings together the products, services, and technologies of manufacturers and suppliers from all over the world, will offer cosmetic, beauty, private label, raw material, and hair salon products to the visitors.

By attending the 15th International Cosmetics, Beauty, and Hair Exhibition BeautyEurasia, you can meet international buyers and industry experts, promote your products to large audiences, establish new partnerships, and benefit from the Ministry of Commerce’s support.

74

Moreover, BeautyEurasia will provide a full exhibition experience for the exhibitors and professional visitors with products, services, and technologies of international manufacturers and suppliers for three days.

Besides, the exhibition, which is one of the most important gateways which opens to the Eurasian market, will offer new business and cooperation opportunities to the domestic and international industry professionals with the VIP Hosted Buyer Program which will take place this year as well.

Event Director Filiz Mehmedova shared information on the 2019 objectives of BeautyEurasia: ‘As ITE Turkey, we aim to contribute to the development of the industry by combining our broad experience and expertise in Turkey and Eurasia region with the existing strong global network of our group. With the support of the Ministry of Commerce, BeautyEurasia brings together different stakeholders in the industry and ensures that hundreds of exhibitors and visitors are informed about the industry developments. We wish to contribute more to the industry in this

year’s exhibition that will take place on June 20 – 22, 2019 by increasing the number of the attending visitors which was over 10 thousand last year.

Besides, the VIP Hosted Buyer Program, which we have successfully carried out for 2 years, will be in this year’s exhibition program as well.’

Mehmedova emphasized that with the ‘Hosted Buyer’ program, they have provided an opportunity for many individual exhibitors from the international arena: ‘Professional visitors find many new opportunities for new supplies, business developments, and partnerships by meeting manufacturers, suppliers, and a number of international top-level buyers. Many VIP buyers from Turkey, CIS (Commonwealth of Independent States), Middle East, Europe, and Latin America will be invited to the program in order to bring them together with the exhibitors through Hosted Buyer Program.’ The exhibition, participation rate of which has already reached up to 66 percent, hosted 286 companies from 25 countries and 10,090 professional visitors from 99 countries in 2018.

Beauty where the continents meet!

20-22 June 2019 YESILKOY / Istanbul HALL 9 - 10 - 11 Follow us

/beautyeurasia

/beauty_eurasia

/beautyeurasia

/beautyeurasia.com/Linkedin Organiser

75

INTERVIEW

Lean journey in

MPlus Cosmetics

During the last two years MPlus Cosmetics threw itself headlong into the cosmetic arena, achieving a double-digit year-on-year growth in terms of turnover rise, customers’ development, workforce increase. International business expansion, creation of a new company identity, build up of a differentiation in services’ and products’ offer have represented the key targets of the company for the past couple of years. 2019 has started with a new strategic project: a journey towards an optimization of all internal processes through the implementation of the “lean philosophy”.

Marco Magliocco, MPlus Operations Manager, brings us through this new challenge for the company.

EM: What does “Lean Production” mean?

MPlus: The term “Lean Production” stands out against the old concept of mass production, theorized

by Henry Ford. It is based on two key concepts: fight against wastefulness and creation of value.

Apparently these might seem to be trivial concepts, but they are actually not. “Lean” is not only a production system, it is a way of thinking and behaving, often referred to as “Lean Thinking”.

The leading principles at the basis of the Lean Thinking are: value creation, process and flow mapping, and continuous improvement, strictly related to Kaizen.

EM: Why did MPlus decide to implement the Lean Production?

MPlus: Let’s start from what the market requires nowadays: customers are more and more diversified, each of them with

unique and peculiar requirements, which change quite rapidly in response (or anticipation) to consumers’ constantly evolving needs. As a consequence customers request suppliers to raise their standards in relation of specific objectives, such as reduction of costs, improvement in quality and time of delivery, shortening of time-to-market and increase in performance. In order to stand up to these crucial requirements by customers MPlus decided to start the Lean Production journey, because we do strongly believe that customers shall always be placed at the heart of our business focus, and our final objective shall always be to constantly and relentlessly increase their satisfaction.

EM: Why do you call this process the “Lean Journey”?

MPlus: “Lean” for us is not just a project, with a beginning and an end, it is a journey, with a beginning but no end. Step by step “Lean”

will have to permeate and change the culture inside the company, in a steady and methodical way.

As Japanese Sensei (from whom “Lean” was born) say: “there is no end and no limit to improvement”.

We want all MPlus team to share and adopt this same principle.

EM: What is the role of people within this Lean Journey?

MPlus: In order to bring to a true and radical change in the company performance, the Lean Thinking must involve the people, the way of thinking, the company culture and it can not only be limited to activities and processes. All the company team will be actively involved in this journey, so as to arouse motivation towards the achievement of the common objectives through Lean. MPlus aims at becoming a Lean Organization, in which the team is constantly motivated towards the achievement of better performances and continuous improvement, aware that the best product offered to a customer is not only the result of a perfect combination of materials, but hides in itself also the enthusiasm and the passion of the people who have contributed to its creation in their daily activities.

EM: Which are the results you have achieved so far?

MPlus: We are still at the very beginning of our journey, and the way ahead is still long, but the

results we have observed in these initial months are astonishing: we have seen improvements in terms of efficiency and effectiveness, both qualitative and quantitative, which would have been inconceivable with other methods;. We are learning how to be more flexible and less “rigid” in case of changes requested by customers, both in the production, from a technical viewpoint and in the service, in relation to delivery dates.

EM: Which will be the next steps in your Lean Journey?

MPlus: First of all we will work on people and on processes in order to obtain a LEAN Factory; afterwards, our goal will be to become a SMART Factory, thus to use all available Factory 4.0 technologies in order to make our manufacturing process faster, more flexible and more efficient. I wish to underline that it is absolutely mandatory that a radical cultural change, along with renewed business models and strategies, is implemented in the company before digital innovation is introduced: only in this way we will avoid the risk of “digitalizing wastefulness”. In other words, without a lean factory no smart factory can exist. Industry 4.0 can really lead us to the 4th industrial revolution, provided that machines and automation are put at the service of people, not vice versa.

A vision, which in MPlus we like to summarize in a slogan: “Making Industry 4.0 is making people 4.0”.

C.S.

76

77

REPORT

78

VALERIE KAMINOV – BIOGRAPHY Having spent over twenty years working with a vast array of luxury, premium and niche beauty brands and fragrances, Valerie has extensive knowledge and practical experience of their supply, distribution and retail, pertinent commercial practices and consumer habits on a global and local basis.

Her expertise has been highly valued by multi-national organizations, SMEs, start-ups, privately owned companies and financial investors.

Certified in Corporate Governance from INSEAD Business School, Valerie has the remarkable ability to successfully set the company’s strategic direction, often across diverse product markets and geographies, and monitor the firm’s risk profile.

As a qualified Non-Executive Director who was awarded the prestigious Financial Times Post-Graduate Diploma, Valerie Kaminov is highly trained in corporate governance and is an experienced NED and Director enabling her to have an holistic understanding of boards.

She advises both as a consultant and an NED. Valerie’s experience earned her a reputation with major players in the industry who hired her to establish them globally.

Her expertise in brand evaluation, acquisition due diligence, risk assessment and commercial growth has been highly valued by Private Equity Funds, multi-national organizations and financial investors.

She is also dedicated to passing her knowledge along through a range of conferences and events.

Valerie has been a guest speaker at the non-profit organization CEW’ Mentoring Services where leading executives offer insights into beauty industry issues and inspiration for professional growth.

As the International Manufacturers & Distributors Forum (IMF) Master of Ceremony, Valerie organizes one of its kind conference in Europe, key global gathering for manufacturers, brand owners and distributors to come together and discuss the challenges facing the industry and their businesses by giving the attendees unlimited networking opportunities.

Daigou and China’s New E-Commerce Policies Expanding into a new market can be a successful way to leverage your core business for growth.

However, believe me when I say, it takes a disciplined process to accurately assess the full potential of each growth opportunity.

A bad bet can easily bog down your business in the blink of eye.

With a growing economy and the rapid take-up of e-commerce, China is booming.

Seeing numbers like these can make any foreign company jump at the idea of tapping into this ever-growing market.

However, the Chinese business culture is unlike any other around world and to thrive in this market, new entrants need to have a thorough understanding of the practical challenges they will face if they want to succeed there.

So, below we have put together a few tips that will help you and your business navigate in clearer waters and avoid pitfalls when expanding into the Chinese Market.

China’s Current Market New trends are reshaping the Chinese consumers purchasing habits. The internet is increasingly becoming China’s number one destination for sales. E-commerce is advantageous for both the customer and business owner. In fact, when a foreign business wishes to expand into the Chinese market, different business models are available, the easiest one being selling through third party Chinese e-platforms. In

other words, being able to reach the Chinese online shopper without having a registered business in China.

Selling online means reaching millions of consumers without having the hassle to test products on animals, register products, pay import duties and sales tax.

Selling online could help you save up to 67% depending on the product type.

By 2015, e-commerce transactions reached an outstanding US$540 billion which equated to a total of 7.5% of all retail transactions.

By 2020, China’s e-commerce market is forecasted to be larger than those of the US, UK, Japan, Germany and France combined. 12% of all online spend in China is on cosmetics and beauty products.

Cross-border e-commerce in China has grown steadily in recent years, on the back of strong consumer demand for premium brands and high-quality overseas products.

The top purchased categories include health and beauty, maternal and infant goods, apparel and accessories, consumer electronics.

Popular goods from these categories are commonly sourced from Europe, Japan or South Korea, with mainland shoppers associating such countries with high-quality product standards.

Nearly 690 million Internet users (as of December 2015) and 700 million smartphone users are the foundations of the Chinese online community,

REPORT

which provides the industry with ways to identify and meet latent consumer demand.

All 467 million of China’s existing online shoppers spend around US$1,300 a year each on e-commerce, representing over a quarter of average disposable income.

The average spend per customer is expected to grow further at a rate of 10% CAGR between 2016 and 2020 as household income continues to rise and consumers begin to buy into more categories and purchase more branded goods.

Leveraging the Daigou Channel: The Right Approach?

China has long been perceived as the home of cheap and counterfeit goods.

Chinese consumers are constantly worrying about a product legitimacy.

Cosmetics and skincare safety are a growing concern amongst the rising middle class who are willing to pay up to a 100% premium on foreign products, perceived as higher quality.

Chinese affluent consumers will make no compromises to make sure the product they are buying is authentic and safe - even if it means having to splurge.

The opportunity for foreign brands to tap into a significantly larger customer base and directly reach the mainland shoppers without having to set up a physical business in China is real.

Up until recently, leveraging the daigou grey channel – China’s fastest growing e-commerce pillar – seemed to be the easiest way to access the scale of the Chinese population.

Literally translated from Mandarin as buy on someone’s behalf, daigou – pronounced dye-go in English - is a person facilitating the buying and selling of international brands on behalf of mainland customers in exchange for a fee.

Traditionally, daigous are students or leisure travellers who are small time buyers purchasing goods abroad and bringing them back into mainland China on behalf of a small network of friends and family.

However, today the professional daigous are typically not touching the product anymore: they simply facilitate orders between the producer and the customer.

They are the insurers of the quality and authenticity of products and their success relies on an incredible network of in-person influencers.

In a market increasingly saturated with counterfeits and knockoffs, the Daigou network is built on assurance around genuine branded products, with consumers placing their trust in these personal shoppers to source high-quality and authentic foreign products.

Most of the transactions are facilitated by the Chinese social media platform WeChat.

While this way of doing business might sound new to most global executives, daigou has been around for decades and is an incredibly well-organized industry.

As the willingness to pay premiums of up to 100% for legitimate and high-quality products is soaring, the number of daigous are expanding rapidly, increasingly becoming sophisticated.

Nowadays, the network of daigou is rapidly changing, increasingly becoming ambitious by involving small businesses Household income continues to rise and consumers begin to buy into staffed by Chinese living abroad. more categories and purchase more branded goods These new businesses operate extensive professional logistical networks and export products directly to the consumer’s According to Euromonitor, by 2020, front door. According to Euromonitor, this a quarter of the Chinese population cross border e-commerce channel is expected – about 500+ million people – will be to grow at a CAGR of more than 60% between shopping online overseas products 2015 and 2018, reaching around 10% of on cross border e-commerce websites.

China’s e-commerce value by the end of 2019.

Last year alone, this channel generated around USD 1.1 trillion in sales.

Daigou have played an incredibly The daigou practice is estimated to be important role in successfully worth tens of billions of US dollars a year. introducing international brands In the past, no taxes were payed on such to the Chinese market and building transactions, meaning tremendous tax a strong and sustainable brand awareness. revenue losses for the Chinese authorities.

This strategy seemed to be the easiest Starting from January 1st, daigou merchants and most successful way to access will be required to obtain licenses by formally the scale of the Chinese population. registering as businesses and pay taxes.

However, the Chinese government Merchants who refuse to comply will be has been tightening its e-commerce subject to fines for illegal business and tax regulations to better control the rapidly evasion that could go up to USD 300,000. expanding industry of daigou which was Chinese customs have reportedly up until now relatively unregulated. imprisoned dozens of merchants This stricter control is said to keep for tax evasion since the start of 2019 supporting the growth of the sector, and have started doubling down all the while under stricter control. on their inspections at major airports.

79

REPORT

Up until recently, most daigou merchants would avoid paying taxes by declaring imports as “personal items”.

By heavily cracking heavily on daigou, the Chinese government hopes to collect more taxes from cross-border e-commerce imports.

Such strict control from authorities will very likely benefit foreign retailers: purchasing through daigou helped consumers save on import duties, giving these merchants a competitive advantage over traditional retailers.

However, thanks to the Chinese government crackdown, purchasing through such channel will become increasingly expensive, meaning that international products sold by foreign retailers will become more competitive for mainland shoppers.

China’s New Cross Border E-Commerce Regulations As mentioned previously, China’s cross border e-commerce companies have always enjoyed easier customs procedures and supportive policies.

Back in November, the State Council announced new policies that would increase even further the opportunities offered by cross border e-commerce.

Coming into effect in January 2019, such policies have added new categories of products to the lists of duty-free products purchased on such platforms – including beauty and healthcare products.

Additionally, consumers buying expensive products will benefit from the higher single transaction limit, with the tax-free quota on single transactions increasing from about USD300 to USD 730, that is a 150% increase.

China will also loosen its annual quota of individual consumers allowed on cross border e-commerce platforms and will continue to increase the annual quota as income keeps growing.

So what exactly does this entail for the future of China’s e-commerce industry? China’s new e-commerce regulations – which have taken effect on January 1st, 2019 - and clampdown on Daigou will not likely have a direct impact on cross border e-commerce consumption.

80

How does the Daigou Channel work

Under the new regulations, the oversight of cross border e-commerce platforms will improve.

China’s affluent rising consumers will continue to prefer imported goods over those which can easily be found on the domestic market.

The clampdown on Daigou will only divert consumption towards increasingly legitimate channels.

Thanks to stricter management on cross-border e-commerce platforms, Chinese consumers will now benefit from an increased credibility and authenticity of retailers and products sold – one of their main concerns.

China’s new approach to e-commerce will only serve to tighten the tax gap between daigous and the cross border e-commerce platforms.

Price differences between imported goods from cross border e-commerce platforms and Daigou will become insignificant.

By selling through legitimate cross border e-commerce, your brand will benefit from increased transparency in regulation, preferential policies and stronger support again counterfeiters.

At International Luxury Brand Consultancy, we know that choosing the right platform for your business can be a tough decision, especially if you are navigating in unknown waters.

We work with our clients so that we can provide them with clarity backed up with years of experience, expertise and knowledge.

With many years of experience under our belt, we can leverage our expertise to establish your brand successfully on the Chinese market.

For more information about the ins and outs of establishing and maintaining a successful channel strategy in China, please contact us on info@ilbc.co.uk or visit our website at www.ilbc.co.uk

The largest international trade fair for beauty products, hair, fragrances and wellbeing in the Middle East

15 – 17 April, 2019 Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre, UAE

Secure your space now! www.beautyworldME.com Tel: +971 4 389 45 00 beautyworld@uae.messefrankfurt.com

81

82

83

nameTAG

The Art Perfumery’s Event

11th EDITION

inspire create express yourself

Q

www.esxence.com

84

ORGANIZED BY

Q

EQ U I P E INTERNATIONAL

EQ U I P E INTERNATIONAL

USEFUL ADDRESSES Blumarine - Dsquared2 Pomellato - Trussardi

ITF s.p.a. - Angelini Group Strada Provinciale, 25 - Km. 2,8 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39-0371/4001 - fax +39-0371/400227

Jesus del Pozo Roberto Verino Starck - Tous

Boutique

Garden Cosmetics Via Pigafetta, 20 - I-28100 Novara

Perfumes y Diseño España, S.L. Isla del Hierro, 5 E-28709 San Sebastian de los Reyes (Madrid) tel. +34-91/6588843 - fax +34-91/6588849

Kiko

Cale’

CALE’ s.r.l.

Via S.Maria Podone, 5 - I-20123 Milano tel. +39/02-76002494 - fax +39/02-76009407 ww.cale.it - s.levi@cale.it

Milano Cosmetics s.r.l.

Via Depretis, 6/9 - I-24122 Bergamo tel. +39-035/3693611 - fax +39-035/3693612

La Closerie des Parfums

Groupe Panther – La Closerie des Parfums ZI Gradignan Bersol - 11 Avenue de la Madeleine F-33173 Gradignan cedex (France) tel +33/05.56.75.79.04 - fax +33/05.56.75.53.36 valerie.madrid@lacloseriedesparfums.com www.lacloseriedesparfums.com

Layla

Layla Cosmetics s.r.l.

Via dei Pestagalli, 21 - I-20138 Milano tel. +39-02/5062052 - fax +39-02/5061160

L’Erbolario

L’Erbolario s.p.a.

V.le Milano, 74 - I-26900 Lodi tel. +39/0371-4911 - fax +39/0371-491411 www.erbolario.com

Locherber

Cosval s.p.a.

V.le delle Industrie 10/5 - I-20020 Arese (MI) tel. +39/02 935 80 479 - fax +39/02 935 81 022 www.cosvality.com

Lubin

Lubin 3, rue du Roule - F-75001 Paris tel: +33-1/40677009 - fax +33-1/45021316

M:PLUS Cosmetics

M:PLUS Cosmetics I-20065 Inzago (MI) Via Unità d’Italia, 9/11 www.mascaraplus.com - info@mascaraplus.com

Acqua di Portofino Blue Pollack - Esse - Evody Fabi - Hugh Parsons Panama - Pineider - Riva

Profumitalia s.r.l.

Via A. Costa, 2 - I-20131 Milano tel. +39/02-45375660 info@profumitalia.net - www.profumitalia.it

Acampora Profumi

Bruno Acampora Profumi B.A.P. s.r.l.

Via G. Filangieri, 72 - I-80121 Napoli tel. +39/081.401701 - fax +39/081.414162 www.brunoacampora.com

Air-Val Beverly Hills Fragrances

Air-Val Int. s.a.

C/Miguel Servet, 27 E-08850 Gava (Barcelona) tel. +34-93/6355335 - fax +34-93/6629806

Caron

Alysonoldoini Parfums

Luciano Oldoini s.r.l.

V.le Geno 10 - I-22100 Como Show-room: Via Montenapoleone, 21 I-20122 Milano www.alysonoldoiniparfums.com

Parfums Caron 99, rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré - F-75008 Paris tel. +331/34235450 - fax +331/34235451 nguil@alesgroupe.com - www.parfumscaron.com

Carrera

Almon s.r.l.

Viale Sondrio, 7 - 20124 Milano - Italy tel. +39 02 84086374 - fax +39 02 84086354 e-mail: info@almon.it - www.almon.it

Ancorotti Cosmetics

Ancorotti Cosmetics s.r.l.

Via del Commercio, 1 - I-26013 Crema (CR) tel. +39/0373-876811.21 - fax +39/0373-876811

Charriol - Morgan Salvador Dalì

Antiqua Firenze - IO•KO

Enzo Galardi Via Ilio Barontini 22 - I-50018 Scandicci (FI) elisa.atelierbois.gmail.com - www.bois1920.it

Cofinluxe 6, Rue Anatole de la Forge F-75017 Paris tel. +33-1/55377172 - fax +33-1/46229827

Collistar

Ars Mirabile - CBN I-Care - Longevity M Masterpiece

S.I.R.P.E.A. S.p.A. Via della Liberazione, 56 I-20098 San Giuliano Milanese (MI) tel. +39-02/98280925 - fax +39-02/98280975

Collistar s.p.a.

Via Pirelli, 19 - I-20124 Milano tel. +39-02/677503 - fax +39-02/6775454

Confalonieri Matite

Fragrance division: Arrogance - GMV Valentina by Guido Crepax Cosmetic division: Pikenz

The First s.p.a.

Via Fieno, 8 I-20123 Milano tel. +39-02/661381 fax +39-02/66138519

Confalonieri Matite s.r.l.

I-23020 Area Industriale - Gordona (SO) tel. +39/0343-42011 - fax +39/0343 42000 www.confaloniericosmetica.com confaloniericosmetica.com

Costume National

Beauty San s.p.a.

Via Rimini, 37 - I-59100 Prato tel. +39-0574/43891 - fax +39-0574/438940 www.beautysan.net

Astra

Giufra S.r.l.

Via Veneto, 152 - I-06059 Todi (PG) tel. +39-075.8987455 - fax +39-075.8987691

Coverderm Covermark

Art Cosmetics

Art Cosmetics s.r.l.

I-24050 Mozzanica (BG) Via E. Mattei, 17/c tel. +39/0363-032011 www.artcosmetics.it - info@artcosmetics.it

Farmeco Head Office: 11 Ag. Glykerios Str. - GR-11147 Athens, Greece tel. +30-20/2131701 - fax +30-20/2136036 Branch Office: Strada 6 Palazzo P1 Milano Fiori - I-20089 Rozzano (MI) tel. +39-02/89200150/167 - fax +39-02/89200371

Artdeco

Artdeco Cosmetic Group Gaussstrasse 13 - D-85757 Karlsfeld tel. +49/8131-390100 - fax +49/8131 390129

diego dalla palma diego dalla palma RVB Lab

Aubade - Montana

Parfums Montana - Empire of Scents 4, Place Wagram - F-75017 Paris tel +33-1/42650072 - fax +33-1/42650074

Alain Delon - Jaguar - Lalique Nikki Beach - Parfums Grès Ultrasun

Art & Fragrance SA Bühlstrasse 1 - CH-8125 Zollikerberg - Switzerland Direct +41-43/4994532 - Phone +41-43/4994500 fax +41-43/4994502 www.art-fragrance.com

Alessandro Dell’Acqua - Dsquared Missoni - Moschino - John Richmond Joseph Abboud - Naj Oleari Versace

Euroitalia s.r.l.

Via G. Galilei, 1 I-20040 Cavenago Brianza (MI) tel. +39-02/95916.1 - fax +39-02/95916500

Amarena Bella Oggi

Eurostyle s.p.a.

I-80035 Nola - Interporto di Nola, Lotto D Blocco 4, Mod. 407/408 tel. +39-081/5108427 - fax +39-081/3158162 www.amarenamakeup.com - info@amarenamakeup.com

Aquolina - Baldinini Paglieri 1876 Pink Sugar

Selectiva s.p.a.

S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 - fax +39-0131/6186663

Armand Basi - Angel Schlesser Custo - Joaquín Cortés Mandarina Duck - Yekipé

IDESA-Angelini Group Via Augusta, 59-9 - E-08006 Barcelona tel. +34-93/2920891 - fax +34-93/2176881

Atkinsons - Benetton Ferrari - Iceberg John Galliano Sergio Tacchini

Perfume Holding - Morris s.p.a.

Via Maretto, 13 I-43100 Parma - Roncopascolo tel. +39-0521/662111 - fax +39-0521/662268

Axis - Hoops - Elanzia Esprit de Versailles - Mercedes Monaco - Yujin

INCC Group 85, avenue de Saint Cloud F-78000 Versailles tel. +33/1-39670671 - fax + 33/1-39670672 www.inccgroup-parfums-com

Balmain Parfums - Celine - Lanvin Interparfums Paul Smith - Roxi - Van Cleef & Arpels 4 Rond Point del Champs Elysées Jimmy Choo - Mont Blanc F-75008 Paris tel. +33/1-53770000 - fax +33/1-53763626 Basile - Compagnia delle Indie Egon von Fürstenberg Lancetti - Lotto Nazareno Gabrielli Sweet Years

Weruska & Joël s.r.l.

Corso Moncalieri, 381 I-10133 Torino tel. +39-011/6611066 fax +39-011/6611348

B.Kolor

B.Kolormakeup & Skincare s.p.a.

Via Canonica, 79/A Loc. Geromina – I-24047 Treviglio (BG) tel. +39/0363-590011 – fax +39/0363-590212 info@bkolormakeup.com www.bkolormakeup-skincare.com

The Merchant of Venice - Police Mavive S.p.A. Replay - Zippo - Manila Grace Via Altinia, 298/B Blauer USA - Pino Silvestre I-30173 Venezia (Dese) Monotheme - I Profumi di d’Annunzio tel. +39-041/5417771 - fax +39-041/5417798 MI-RE

MI-in Paris 102, rue des Poissonniers - F-75018 Paris tel. +33/6-65299995 www.mirecosmetics.com - etremosa@mi-in.kr

Cosmetica s.r.l.

Via S. Carlo 28 I-40023 Castel Guelfo (BO) tel. +39-0542/670911 - fax +39-0542/670911

Molinard

Parfums Molinard 60, boulevard Victor Hugo - F-06130 Grasse tel. +334-92423322 - fax +334-89123068 export@molinard.com - www.molinard.com

Enrico Coveri Mariella Arduini

Gold I-20131 Milano - Via Filippo Lippi 10 tel. +39/02_795862 www.goldmilano.it - info@goldmilano.it

Nesti Dante

Nesti Dante s.r.l.

Via della Molina, 39 - I-50010 S.Donnino (FI) tel. +39-055/8739401/2 - fax 39-055/8739768

Exclusive division: Braccialini - Byblos - Gandini - Genny Luciano Soprani - Transvital Prestige division: Australian - Bionsen La Gazzetta dello Sport - Lola Looney Tunes - Renato Balestra Rockford

Eurocosmesi Via Gobetti, 4 I-40050 Funo di Argelato (BO) tel. +39-051/6649238 fax +39-051/6649248

Nouba

Nouba s.r.l.

I-24061 Albano S. Alessandro (BG) Via Santa Barbara, 6 tel. +39/035-581996 – fax +39/035-4521099 www.nouba.it – e-mail: info@nouba.it

Paglieri

Franck Olivier

Sodip 21, Boulevard Montmartre- F-75002 Paris - France tel. +33-1/40262020 - fax +33-1/42210888

Paglieri s.p.a.

S.S. per Genova, Km. 98 - I-15100 Alessandria tel. +39-0131/213584 - fax +39-0131/6186663

Parfums Pergolèse Paris

Fedua

Fedua Cosmetics Via Moretto 27 - I-25122 Brescia tel. +39/030-2590833 commerciale@fedua.com - www.fedua.com

Parfums Pergolèse Paris 59, Rue De Miromesnil - F-75008 Paris Tel. +33-(0)1/53581402 or 1435 www.parfums-pergolese-paris.com

Payot

Filorga

Laboratoires Filorga 2-4 rue de Lisbonne - F-75008 Paris tel. +33 1 42939400 - fax + 331 42937965 guillaume.ledeme@filorga.com - www.filorga.com

Laboratoires Dr. N G Payot 10, boulevard du Parc - F-92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine tel. +331/55625454 contact@payot.fr - www.payot.com

Giorgio Jäneke

Giorgio Jäneke s.r.l.

I-20050 Veduggio (MI) tel. +39-0362/911010 a.r. - fax +39-0362/911100

Pupa Miss Milkie

Micy’s Company s.p.a.

Via De Gasperi, 22 - I-23880 Casatenovo (LC) tel. +39-039/92341 - fax +39-039/89205859

Gli Elementi

GLI ELEMENTI s.r.l.

Via Domenico Cimarosa, 3 I-20144 Milano www.glielementi.it - d.brichetti@italian-philosophy.it

Rancé

Rancé & C. s.r.l.

Via Lombardini, 10 - I-20143 Milano tel. +39-02/58100855 - fax +39-02/89401058

Rebis

Guudcure Pollution Free

HSA GROUP S.p.A. Via Ugo Foscolo, 27 - I-21050 Bisuschio (VA) tel. +39/0332-476554 - fax +39/03332-850307 hsa@hsacosmetics.com - www.hsacosmetics.com

Rebis Via Repubblica 36/B - I-26043 Persico Dosimo (CR) tel. +39-0372-54396 - fax +39-0372-493181 info@rebisnatural.com - www.rebisnatural.com

Sandalia

Henry Cotton’s Ducati- Mcs -Monello Mascalzone NY League

Diamond International s.r.l.

Via Foce Cesano,4/9 - I-60019 Senigalla (AN) tel. +39/071-6610226 - fax +39/071-6611104 info@diamondint.it - www.difragrances.com

Officina Profumeria Sarda s.r.l.

I-07041 Alghero (SS) tel. + 39/340 3872516 www.acquadisardegna.it - infor@officinaprofumeriasarda

Herbal Essentials

Harmony Cosmetics DMCC Office 1906, Reef Tower, Cluster O, Jumeirah Lakes Tower, Dubai, U.A.E. Tel. +971/4-4401277 – Fa + 971/4-4392243 www.herbal-essentials.com -e-mail: aly@harmony.ae

Salvatore Ferragamo Ungaro

Salvatore Ferragamo Italia s.p.a.

Via dei Tornabuoni, 2 - I-20123 Firenze tel. +39-055/33601 - fax +39-055/3360734

Simone Cosac

Intertrade Europe

HI Intertrade Europe Via Portogallo,11/125 - I-35127 Padova tel. +39-049/7625241 - fax +39-049/762 5177

Simone Cosac Profumi s.r.l.

Via Villamagna, 56/58 - I-50012 Bagno a Ripoli (FI) tel. + 39/055-631251 - fax +39/055-631262

Teatro Fragranze Uniche

Jean Couturier Léonard

VAG & Distribution 6, rue Pasquier - F-75008 Paris tel. +33-1/58183970 - fax +33-1/40060210

Teatro Fragranze Uniche s.r.l.

Via Pietro Nenni, 26/28 - I-50019 Sesto Fiorentino (FI) tel. +39/055.4212240 www.teatrofragranzeuniche.it info@teatrofragranzeuniche.it

85

EVENTS

Welcoming 762 exhibitors from 30 countries/ regions and 25,627 quality visitors, the show concluded in a huge success.

Given that the 2019 edition broke the record again both in the number of exhibitors and visitors, it can be said that COSME TOKYO has become a very important exhibition in the global cosmetics industry.

COSME TOKYO a record breaking edition 2019 Boom in attendance with particularly strong growth in international visitors and exhibitors Great Success For The Three Concomitant Shows Japan’s largest cosmetics show returned from 30 January to 1 February 2019 at the Makuhari

Messe international convention centre, together with its two concomitant shows, the 9th COSME Tech, covering all cosmetics development solutions like ingredients, OEM and packaging and the 2nd Inner Beauty Tokyo, dedicated to beauty and health.

As in the previous years, Cosme Tokyo offered the opportunity to meet a large portfolio of made in Japan and other Asian brands from

all categories including skin care, hair and body care, makeup, fragrance, men’s care. The show attracted a much wider range of professionals in the beauty industry including several brand owners from overseas countries interested in the natural and organic beauty segment, which has recorded strong growth rate in the country over the last five years. This year, 23,000 brands were newly showcased.

Increased International Presence At Cosme Tokyo Throughout the years both the number of international exhibitors and visitors have gradually increased.

Besides world’s famous companies, for instance, L’Erbolario (Italy), Kryolan(Germany), Won Medico (Korea), A&C Intertrade (Thailand) which had exhibited in several times, new exhibiting companies like Meder Beauty International (Uk), Mediterranean Cosmetics (Greece) attracted significant attention from many Japan’s visitors.

Alongside Italy, France, Germany, Poland, Korea, China, Taiwan,

86

EVENTS

new national pavilions of Canada, North America, and Russia exhibited their products.

This internationalization has turned COSME TOKYO into the hub of Asian cosmetics trade, where worldwide exhibitors meet visitors from Japan and all across Asia.

Show Highlights Functional Aging-Care Products COSME TOKYO 2019 was filled with new highly functional aging-care products based on cutting-edge technologies, such as human stem cell and bioscience along with skin brightening effects and local specialties.

Next Year Edition - On Track for International Expansion Next COSME TOKYO (20th - 22nd January 2020 at Makuhari Messe, Japan) will be scaled up and become even more international, gathering 900* exhibitors from 35* countries/regions.

OSAKA show (9th – 11th September 2020 at INTEX Osaka) is newly launched, and it is supposed to gather 250* exhibitors and 12,000* visitors. (*expected, including co-held shows)

Quality Made in Japan Brands At this show, the Natural 3D Face Mask with a scene of YUZU, a brightening toner containing mild rice bran water from Kyoto, etc., surprised the international importers and buyers.

These unique products could not be found in other shows.

Business Matching Services Show Management offered the exhibitors two types of business matching support services: “One to One Matching with Japanese Distributors” and “Meeting Arranged with Asian Premium Buyers”.

Through these services, a total of 1155 business meetings were arranged in 2019.

87

EVENTS

UP BEAUTY the disruptive beauty event for emerging brands This June 27-28, the Carrousel du Louvre is the place to be for emerging brands, forward-thinking buyers and investors.

UP BEAUTY is a brand new premium event where tomorrow’s brands will showcase their disruptive beauty products

Wabel will pick 150 Beauty brands that will present the vision of their disruptive products for the world.

Attending brands are selected

by Wabel’s team and their standards for future beauty, including responsible packaging,

88

smart delivery, digital footprint, short green formulation, cruelty-free, earth-friendly, conscious and / or locally sourced.

The brands will present their products from the categories of skin care, color cosmetics, hair care, nail care, oral care, mother & baby care and accessories.

This extraordinary event will welcome upwards of 2,000 worldwide professional visitors, including big retailers, specialized retailers, importers, investors, influencers and leading press.

Our emerging brands and top buyers will be matched through UP’s pre-arranged smart meetings.

“Our ambition with UP BEAUTY is to put the brands of tomorrow,

with their strong identity and values, in touch with leading buyers on the lookout for innovative new concepts to embrace the environmental transition that is taking place,” states Wabel Co-Founder and Managing Director Antoine Bonnel.

“Our know-how in connecting and accompanying buyers and suppliers worldwide puts us in an ideal position to do so, and Paris, as the world capital for beauty and gastronomy, is the perfect home for this unique event”.

Whether you are an upcoming brand or an innovative buyer, you can already apply for UP BEAUTY: https://upbywabel.com/.

DISRUPTIVE UPCOMING BRANDS HEALTH WELLNESS SUSTAINABILITY

UP by WABEL is the only event dedicated to disruptive upcoming brands with a special focus on HEALTH, WELLNESS AND SUSTAINABILITY. Scan the QR Code to register III

L’amore e la passionalità sono i cardini della nuova collezione Love Affair: una capsule collection che racchiude una selezione di prodotti di cui innamorarsi perdutamente, racchiusi in pregiati scrigni tempestati di rose.

WWW.ASTRAMAKEUP.COM

IV

PH © Susi Belianska

love affair