MUNCH ISSUE 9
FEATURES P 10 73107-Tacos - an urban exploration P 18 Beer Talk - with Tanner Beers P 28 Chimera - the new american diner P 42 Kringala- how traditions are made
RECIPES P6 new mexican green chile stew P 24 country pate P 26 crackers P 34 vegan thai basil curry P 38 pannekaker P 40 glogg P41 fiskekaker
C O N T E N T S
EDITOR Kimberly Hickerson designer/editor
When I start working on a new issue of Munch, I build it from scratch. I make a wish list of stories I’d like to pursue, including conversations I’ve had over beer and coffee about beer or coffee. Sometimes I end up discussing Norwegian food and, at other times, the beauty of Green Chile. Then I ask people if they’d like to do something for Munch and I help them put it together (i.e., harass them for recipes.) Sometimes all I have to do is eat. Other times I get more involved by trying to put into words my love for a particular restaurant. All those conversations are now laid out on blank pages for the world to see. The most satisfying part of the process, (other then eating) is piecing together the finished project. I love layout and design. Adobe InDesign is my happy place. I don’t know if the world has become more creative but we all just have better access to the world of design. I admire what human beings are able to do with a blank page, wall, plate, room, guitar pedal or camera these days. It all has me thinking “fuck, that’s so impressive.” At times I feel unworthy and inexperienced. I’ve never worked on a team of designers and am mostly self-taught. I went to school for Journalism, but really journalism has become more of my hobby then a regular profession. I don’t have a fancy art school degree, I can’t really draw and at times I feel like a fraud calling myself a designer. But who doesn’t feel this way sometimes? I am inexperienced, but I have my whole life to figure it out, in the mean time I’m just going to keep filling these pages.
Ethan Hickerson a photographer that lives and loves in Richmond, Virginia. When he is not behind the lens, you might find him skateboarding, exploring nature or becoming friends with a stranger. ethan-hickerson-y3v7.squarespace.com
-photo series starts on page 10 – Christie Norris a graphic designer in Denton Texas that has a passion for healthy living and vegan cooking. Christie’s recipes take veggies to new heights. opportunityawakened.com -curry on page 35 –
Alex Barnard an enthusiastic home cook with an impressive knowledge of Norwegian and Japanese food, Barnard takes his Aquavit and ramen noodle knowledge on tour with his band Sex Snobs. -fish cakes on page 41 –
Thanks to: Brian Brown, Hal Moncrief, Lacey Elaine Tackett, Diana Montgomery, Alex Barnard, Jason Christian, Tanner Beers, Erika Harris and Lacey Tackett as well as all of our readers!
CONTRIBUTORS
New Mexican Green Chile Stew written by Brian Brown
For the uninitiated, the harvest of Hatch New Mexican chiles begins in August and lasts into October. The large, shiny green pepper is essentially an Anaheim pepper, but the New Mexican variety of the chile is celebrated for its heat, piquancy, and depth of flavor. New Mexicans famously deploy the chile in seemingly endless ways at breakfast, lunch, dinner and beyond, but few native dishes are as satisfying as Green Chile Stew, a humble and hearty staple of the regional diet. A layered pastiche of earthy, pungent flavor and bracing heat, Green Chile Stew is the proletariat foundation of New Mexican cuisine, a dish enjoyed by generations of ranch hands, farm workers, and laborers that today graces the rustic tables of Santa Fe’s arty dining destinations. Robby Vernon, a native New Mexican and well-known fixture of Oklahoma City’s restaurant scene, curated and modified this family recipe from an elderly woman he met in southern New Mexico. What sets his recipe apart is its noticeable lack of chicken or beef stock for the base. Instead, the chiles and vegetables form the base for this simple iteration. For my trial preparation, I selected a mix of mild, medium, and hot Hatch chiles – freshly roasted, peeled, and de-seeded – from the local Whole Foods. Each year, beginning in August through about mid-September, seasonal Hatch chile displays pop up there and in other grocery stores throughout the Southwest. Don’t waste time. The green chile season comes and goes quickly, with the chiles rapidly vanishing from store shelves.
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10 roasted, peeled, and de-seeded New Mexican green chiles (mild, medium, or hot) 2 large or three medium tomatoes 1/2 yellow onion, quartered 3 garlic cloves, peeled and halved 1 1/2 lbs pork or beef roast, cubed 1 1/2 lbs potatoes, chopped into approximately one-inch by one-inch chunks (with skin on) 2 tbl. kosher or sea salt (or more to taste) 1 tbl. fresh-ground pepper 1 tbl smoked paprika 2 roasted, peeled, and de-seeded jalapeño peppers 1 roasted, peeled, and de-seeded Serrano pepper 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon onion powder 1 teaspoon New Mexican chile powder 4 tablespoons canola oil 8 cups water Notes: For the meat, I used pork, but beef is also an excellent choice. Vegetarians can prepare this stew with the addition of pinto beans or hominy – ubiquitous in New Mexican cooking – as a substitute for meat. For the potatoes, I used buttery petite Yukon Golds, quartered, although Vernon says New Mexicans typically use locally grown Russett potatoes, skin on, cut into bite-sized chunks. If you are attempting this recipe out of season, you may purchase New Mexican chiles year-round online at websites such as hatch-green-chile.com. The chile is shipped frozen, already roasted and de-seeded, and even chopped if you desire. If you must, substitute the milder and slightly less flavorful store-bought Anaheims, farmed in California and Mexico and widely available in groceries throughout the year.
Directions: Combine half of the chiles and all of the onions, tomatoes, and garlic with the water in a large stock pot (Preserve the other half of the chiles.). Gradually bring water to boil, boiling vegetables for approximately three minutes. Remove stock pot from heat source. Using a slotted spoon, remove all of the boiled vegetables from stock pot. Quarter boiled tomatoes and place them along with the boiled chiles, onions and garlic in a blender, preserving water in the pot. Then, add five to six cups of water from the stock pot to the blender. Blend vegetables and water from stock pot in blender. In a skillet, add oil and bring to medium heat. Add cubed pork or beef. Brown slowly, seasoning meat with salt, pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, and chile powder. Add chopped potatoes to skillet. Add one cup of water to skillet and cover. Continue to cook meat and potatoes in covered skillet until potatoes begin to soften, approximately five minutes. Once potatoes begin to get tender, add all ingredients from skillet into Crock Pot or slow cooker. Add contents of blender to Crock Pot. Chop remaining green chiles into half-inch chunks and add to Crock Pot. Slowly cook all ingredients in Crock Pot on low setting for approximately four hours, or until meat is tender. Ladle stew into bowls and serve with warmed flour tortillas on the side. Optional: for a slightly tangy flavor, or to neutralize heat, add a spoonful of sour cream to stew.
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73107-Tacos: an urban exploration photography by Lacey Elaine Tackett
Tacos El Rey - 100 S May Ave, Oklahoma City, OK 73107 Tripa Al Pastor (Spicy Pork) Barbacoa Sopa
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Taqueiria Sanchez - 4011 NW 10th St, Oklahoma City, OK 73107 Asada Lengua - Cabeza Barbacoa
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Hugo’s Taquizas - 3409 NW 23rd St, Oklahoma City, OK 73107 Pollo Cachete (cheek) - Cabeza Conchinita Bibil
Tacos Sibilia - 3207 NW 23rd St, Oklahoma City, OK 73107 Chicharon Chapin Pollo Chapin Chorizo Chapin
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BREW’S RULES BREW’S RULES Tanner Beers talks about the trials and errors of being a head brewer. MUNCH: Do you remember the first beer you had? TANNER BEERS: Yes, twas a bud light, accompanied by a concoction of liquor and fruit punch known to us as trash can punch. I may or may not have been of legal drinking age... M: Do you remember the first beer you “appreciated” ? That you were like “hey, this doesn’t suck”? B: I think it was a Spaten Optimator. Maybe the first non gas station beer I had, I went crazy about it. It’s been quite awhile since I’ve had one, maybe I’ll give it another shot M: How did you get started making beer? B: I started making some homemade wines just to experiment with making alcohol for cheap and with what I had around me, this was maybe 2008, I continued to experiment and got really into craft beer, so I had to make beer (diy or die was my m.o. at the time). Brewed my first beer kit in 2010 it was cold out. Totally
caught the bug. I soon invested in
beer will do well in the market.
equipment to brew larger batches
Although when we do small
with all grain, consumed all the
batches for special events I don’t
information I could and tried to
have to consider those things and
brew much as possible. Dreaming
I end up with some of my favorite
about how cool it would be to
beers, like the smoked juniper
make beer for a living
witbier you were referring to earlier
M: So I think when we met you had brewed a batch of coriander beer?
M: What brews are you currently
That was seriously tasty from what
working on for Anthem that you are
I remember. Was that just a one
pumped about?
off or something you were looking at developing? I think what I’m
B: Yes on the exciting beers,
getting at is how does the creative
our barrel aged program has
process work / how do you come
some sweeeet stuff in queue- a
up with stuff?
saison Brett aged in chardonnay barrels, a sour brown ale in opus
B: That beer in particular was a
one barrels, and a cherry sour
one off that I worked on with local
in French oak, as well as some
chef Andon Whitehorn, to pair
favorites from last year waiting to
well with a dinner party he had
be matured and released. We also
planned. Basically we look at what
recently released a tripel in kegs
style we want to make, whether or
that was a part of the wildbrew
not we wish to stick with traditional
charity event, and are working on
elements and flavors or if we want
an Oktoberfest!
to get weird. Also at a brewery level we have to look at availability
M: What are some of the
of ingredients, forms of packaging
challenges craft brewers face?
and whether or not we think the
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B: In general, getting your brand
M: Yeah. Oklahoma is the only
out to as many people as possible,
place I’ve talked about what beers
towing lines of accessibility and
taste good warm. Do you have any
without compromising quality and
style preference when it comes to
flavor. In Oklahoma specifically
beer?
it’s the law! The laws here make it cumbersome to get your product
B: Haha for sure. You know I’ve
to people. We are not allowed to
met very few beers I wouldn’t
sell our products at the point of
drink, and I think there’s too many
production (in the taproom) unless
wonderful styles and brands out
they are 3.2, and even then it must
there to not be an omnivore of
be a sealed container that cannot
beer styles. I really like finding
be opened on premisis.
beers appropriate for the place and time they are consumed. Light
This is a major set back that
lagers and saisons have been
makes it hard to generate revenue
high on my list this summer, I’ve
as a small start up brewery.
also been crushing our goose, which is super session-able and
Also the fact we cannot refrigerate
refreshing.
beer once it leaves the brewery is for me a big deal because it’s not
M: Do you have any advice for
good for the taste of our products
people want to brew at home?
that our reputation rides on. I’ll plug that there are bills in the
B: Yeah, have fun! Don’t stress
works that will hopefully change
about having everything perfect,
some of these things for us, so call
and for Lord’s sake don’t dump
your congress-folks and let them
your beer if it’s not just right, some
know you want breweries to have
of the best beers are complete
an easier time. I think we will see
accidents.
more great breweries open up.
MEAT HEAVEN I don’t like a lot of shit in my food. It can be a
complicated (read: not complicated) technique to prepare but I want seven ingredients tops.
It’s not a picky-eater thing, more of a simplistic thing. Maybe I’m boring. Either way, if I can’t
make the grocery list for a recipe on a sticky note, I’ve already lost interest.
In total contrast, I like weird meats. I grew up eating bologna, Spam and that weird
ham lunchmeat that has cubes of “cheese”
in it. There is nothing simple about that ham lunchmeat. As I got older and my tastes
eventually refined (sort of), this love of weird
meat segued into (real) sausages, rillettes and pâtés.
Enter, Jacques Pépin. Simple food and weird
meat heaven. He’s also the main reason I can
do anything that resembles cooking. So when
I had the notion to make a pâté at home, I went to him first. Well, to one of his cookbooks. This recipe is was inspired by his original recipe
that uses curing salt and can last much longer in your refrigerator. It’s what he describes as a
standard French pâté. Very few ingredients and not a lot of fuss. Perfection.
by Diana Montgo
omery
PATE 8 2
¾
ounces pork liver, sinews removed, diced
pounds ground pork (about 70% lean, 30% fat) cup dry white wine
2 ½ teaspoons Kosher salt
1 ½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper ¼
teaspoons dried thyme
2
bay leaves
1
garlic clove, crushed and minced
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Place the diced pork liver into a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Pour into a large bowl.
Add the ground pork to the liver, then add the wine, salt,
black pepper, thyme and garlic and mix until everything is combined.
Spoon the mixture into a deep, rectangular casserole or lasagna pan, smoothing the top of the mixture with the back of the spoon. Place the bay leaves on top. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and set it in a baking pan
or larger casserole pan. Pour enough lukewarm water
to come up to at least three quarters of the way up the
sides of the smaller pan. Bake for 2 ½ hours or until the internal temperature of the pâté is about 145 degrees.
Remove from the water bath and allow to cool to room temperature.
Refrigerate the pâté overnight before serving.
Cut into ¼ inch slices and serve with cornichons and French mustard. Notes:
The original recipe calls for curing salt instead of Kosher salt. Curing salt is only needed if you don’t plan on consuming the pâté within a couple of days.
Place both pans in the oven before pouring in the water to
create the water bath. It makes everything infinitely easier.
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CRACKERS 3 2 2 4 1 1
cups all-purpose flour, or a combination of
all-purpose and whole-wheat flour teaspoons sugar teaspoons salt
tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil cup water
tablespoon optional toppings
(poppy seeds, sea salt, etc)
Place a rack in the lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Lightly flour a large baking sheet. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar and salt. Add the oil and water to the dry ingredients. Using your hands, knead together the mixture together until a soft, sticky dough is formed. If a large amount of loose flour remains in the bowl, add one tablespoon of water at a time until all flour is incorporated. Divide the dough into two halves and set one to the side. Lightly flour your work surface and pat remaining half of dough into a square. Starting from the center, roll the dough out into a rectangle approximately 1/8 of an inch thick or thinner. Combine any additional toppings in a small bowl and sprinkle half of mixture over the surface of the dough. Using your fingertips, very lightly press toppings into the dough. Using a sharp knife or cookie cutter, cut the dough into individual desired shapes (rectangles, squares, circles, etc). Place individual crackers close together on prepared baking sheet. Prick the surface of each cracker with the tines of a fork 2-3 times so the crackers don’t puff up. Place the baking sheet in the oven and bake for 12-15 minutes. While the first batch of crackers are baking, roll out, top and shape the other half of dough. Allow crackers to cool completely on a wire rack. The cracker will crisp up further while cooling. Store in an airtight container for 3-5 days. 27 - MUNCH
WELL-LIGTHED A Modern Cafe Story
written by Kimberly Hickerson photos by Ethan Hickerson
For a while, I toyed with the idea of opening a restaurant. It started as almost a goof but had a momentum of its own. I planned out menus and had a friend sketch out building options. I even put a full business plan together with proper financials laid out. I did have opportunity to meet with a developer, but I never went to the bank with it. I have a vision in my head of what I want so clearly it almost feels real. I assumed after years restaurants popping up in Oklahoma City, someone would’ve opened something here so similar to what I want that it would help eliminate my fantasy for this place. One weekend morning in Tulsa I walked into a place that felt very similar to what I had once imagined. I’d like to lie and tell you I was having a lovely morning with my husband in Tulsa where we went out and rode bikes around the river and then off to a little diner downtown to meet a friend, but that’s not the case. I was horribly hungover from indulging the night before in an evening that started at Sound-Pony and ended with walking back to the hotel from a bar someplace I don’t remember the name of - the third or fourth bar of the night, in fact. So when we walked into Chimera on a Saturday morning, my first thoughts were of “survival” - water,
coffee, food. What I got was a vegan donut shaped like a heart, pour over coffee and a freshly made beet and fruit juice. Between that and a breakfast taco, my hangover was cured. It wasn’t a heavy or greasy breakfast (the kind most people feel cures hangovers, but just makes me feel worse and more lethargic). I felt good. I felt great. The light coming in from the front windows felt inviting and warm. The hardwood tables, floors and colorful counter top gave the place a comfortable feel. Chimera is a beautiful example of a fresh and modern take on what a diner can be, and of where I hope more American diners are headed. Don’t get me wrong. I love a good greasy spoon as much as the next person, but they hearken back to a bygone era and are not places today’s fresh food lovers would want to visit every day. It’s the kind of place you get great coffee or fresh juice or a good cocktail and hang out for breakfast, lunch or dinner a few times a week. A place where you actually feel like you’re enjoying yourself. Situated in the middle of Downtown Tulsa’s Brady District, the place feels pretty hip, but it doesn’t feel like it’s trying too hard to impress anyone. It’s just that everything it has is selected and executed well. Every component is well thought out but not overdone, from the chairs, tables, and bar top to the charming illustrations on their menu - just clean and comfortable in a well-lit space.
You order breakfast at the bar, but for lunch or dinner someone waits on you. The menu is predominantly healthy with lots of Vegetarian options, but it doesn’t feel like they are jamming either of these principles down your throat. Breakfast consists of baked goods and breakfast tacos or, if you’re really hungry, a bowl with eggs, bacon, potato, chipotle cream and fresh salsa. For lunch there are sandwiches
like the Grilled Turkey, with thick cut bacon, pickled veggies and Brie or salads like the Dutch Farmer with kale, shredded beets, carrots, dried cranberries, toasted sunflower seeds, adzuki strips and citrus dressing Dinner includes black bean or bison street-style tacos served with a seasonal salad. They also serve a variety of specials and appetizers.
Fresh and interesting ingredients bring new light to a classic menu, yet it’s still the kind of place you can come to early and stay late into the night reading, visiting with friends or just enjoying a cocktail. I’d like to believe that if we signed papers on the Coin Laundry Cafe three years ago, this is similar to the type of refuge it could’ve evolved into. However, my lack of real
restaurant experience (which only includes waiting tables for a couple years in college) leads me to believe that I am not yet ready for this kind of endeavor, nor would I have been able to finish it with this level of expertise. I’m happy that someone has. I’m glad it exists and, while I’m still looking for my well-lit cafe to open here in OKC, I don’t mind taking a drive to Tulsa to enjoy this one.
vegan thai basil curry recipe by Christie Norris
1–16 oz. can full-fat coconut milk 1–16 oz. can diced tomatoes with basil and garlic 1 pkg Extra Firm tofu (in the refrigerated section, or fresh!) OR 2–20 oz. cans Young Green Jackfruit in Brine or Water 2 cups no-chicken veggie broth 2 tbsp gluten free tamari, Braggs or coconut aminos 3 tbsp lime juice 1 small zucchinis, diced 1/2 eggplant, cubed 1/8 cup dried sweet basil, or 2 small bunches fresh basil, destemmed and chopped dash of curry powder 1/2 onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 1/2 tsp sesame oil 1 tsp. chili/garlic paste 2 tsp. chili flakes in soy oil 2 cups dry brown rice 35 - MUNCH
This dish is very easy to make. Begin by dry sautéing the garlic and onion on medium heat in a medium skillet or pot. Add chili paste and stir with a spatula until well-coated. Allow to sweat (the onions, not you). This is also a great time to get your rice started…. brown rice can take up to 40 minutes to cook. Just follow instructions on the package. Add jackfruit (drained and rinsed) and a tiny bit of veggie broth to prevent sticking. (You may choose to bake your jackfruit first to get a more convincing chicken-like texture. Line cookie sheet with parchment paper and bake at 350 for about 15 minutes.) Either fresh or baked, add jackfruit to garlic/onion/chili paste in skillet allow it to heat up until you can break it apart into smaller chunks with your spatula. Jackfruit does contain a few seeds, but they are so soft and completely edible you will hardly notice. Add veggie broth, coconut milk, and remaining spices, including tamari and lime. Leave uncovered and stir often. While this is cooking, slice up your zucchini and set aside to add later with the canned tomatoes. These don’t need to cook as long, so you want to add them later in the process. After about 40 minutes, or when jackfruit is tender, add zucchini, eggplant and tomatoes. If you want your spices to be more potent, you can wait to add your basil at this point too. While this is cooking, check on the jackfruit or tofu mixture often, making sure none is sticking to the bottom of your pan and breaking up the fruit/flipping the tofu with your spatula as much as possible. Allow to heat another 20 minutes or so (or until zuchinni and eggplant is tender but not too mushy). When rice is ready, do a taste test to make sure you have the right balance of spices in the curry mixture. You may need to add more tamari, chili flakes, or lime. Add potato flakes if your mixture isn’t thick enough. I like to add lots of chili flakes, but I add it to my individual dish so not everyone has to eat something extremely spicy. Taste the jackfruit to make sure it’s tender, or the tofu to be sure it’s crispy, and if so, you’re ready to serve! Add brown rice to each bowl, and curry mixture on top. Then add your tofu or jackfruit.
A NorwegianTable
recipes by Alex Barnard photos by Lacey Tackett
Pannekaker (Pancakes)
This is something my Grandmother used to make for me all the time. Most recipes I’ve found for pannekaker online are something more akin to crepes. Norwegian pancakes aren’t crepes but they are also not like north american pancakes. Pannekaker is light but not super thin and airy like a crepe. These dense, spongy little cakes are a delicious treat of there own. They can be enjoyed as a savory dish or as a dessert. 1 egg 1/3 cup flour 2/3 cup whole milk or half and half 1 Tsp sugar pinch of salt Mix wet ingredients and then add flour, sugar, and salt. MIx thoroughly. You can’t over mix these like other pancakes with baking soda in them so feel free to use a blender. Heat a nonstick skillet very hot. Pour about 1/8 cup of batter in the center of the skillet. Cook on one side until the top is almost dry then flip. These only take a few seconds to cook each one. 1 egg makes around six pannekaker.
Glogg Glogg is a hot mulled wine beverage that is typically drank around Christmas. Its perfect for cold snowy days to warm your bones. The fruit and nuts are meant to be eaten in your cup as you sip the beverage. 750 ml bottle cheap port wine Aquavit to taste 5 cinnamon sticks 5 whole cloves 1/2 cup raisins 1/2 cup prunes 1 cup blanched almonds 1/2 cups sugar The amounts in this recipe are all subject to personal taste. Some cheap port wine is way too sweet and you won’t want to add as much sugar. You also might like more or less of a boozy taste with auquavit. This is just an approximation of my families recipe and even ours is different batch to batch, so make how it the way it tastes good to you. Place 2 cups of water in a large pot with sugar and spices over medium heat. Marinate the raisins and fruits in aquavit for about 30 minutes. Pour all ingredients in the pot and start drinking. The longer the glogg sits around the better it gets. We usually make it the night before and reheat it. Also, this recipe is scaled down. We tend to make twice this much so if you’re having a party double it (you will drink it all, trust me.) 40 - MUNCH
Fiskekaker (Fish cakes)
This is a commonplace Norwegian snack. Typically you would use a fish like cod but other light fish will work such as tilapia. 1 lb. fish (cod/whitefish) 1 tsp salt 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper 2 tbs flour 1/2 stick of butter 3 tbsp chives 1/4 tsp nutmeg Place fish and dry ingredients in a blender or food processor. Pulse while adding whole milk or cream until you have a thick paste. Melt butter in a skillet. Place a small amount of flour in the palm of your hand and, with a spoon, place an egg sized ball of fish paste in your hand. Add a small amount of flour on top of the fish and form it into a patty with both hands. Place all of the fish patties in the skillet. Fry until crispy and flip (about 3 to 4 min on each side).
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THE BELOVED KRINGLA By Jason Christian
Illustrated by Erika Harris
When sifting through my own memories food very often accompanies those reflections, the ultimate tool for inducing nostalgia. While trying to recall which foods had a lasting effect and why, a stubborn image of a little doughy pretzel-shaped pastry called a kringla hung in my thoughts like a gilded Christmas ornament. My first encounter with kringlas occurred on a trip I took with my grandparents on my mother’s side to the far northern part of Iowa—corn and soy country—to visit my grandfather’s birthplace and the relatives he undoubtedly missed, a memory I now assume might have indeed left more of a lasting mark than I ever knew before. It was then, in that foreign territory of the north, when I realized what a community might look like. It was then that I first saw well-adjusted, happy people. There was something about the north that captured my attention: the lakes, the funny accents, snowmobiles parked in sheds, the habit of taking shoes off when entering houses. I liked it. I liked the village feel, the wholesomeness, and these Norwegian pastries that seemed abundant everywhere I turned.
It wasn’t just that the pastries were tasty, it was how they signifed a tradition. They joined my grandfather and his sister-in-law, who made the first ones I tried, to a place I couldn’t even identify on the map. This link to Norway might as well have been a link to Medieval Vikings, and for all I know it was. And though my mom was adopted by my grandfather as a baby, and shared no biological connection to his Norwegian lineage (her mother’s and biological father’s blood came from German farmers I still know little about), I felt enormous pride in my association to the people that made those pastries. Every bite seemed like wiggling a toe or an elbow into a portal to another world. If I could just eat enough of them I might transport my body to another time and place altogether. I couldn’t stop eating them. I ate so many that they sent a bag full home with me. I can only imagine how amused they were by how much I obviously loved them. And that everyone still called them kringlas, a word that comes from the Old Norse meaning ring or circle, is telling. It was clear that my Iowan relatives (and their whole community up there) wanted their Norwegianess to remain intact, and that somehow kringlas aided in that endeavor, emblematized and made tangible their identity, as though that identity was just another ingredient in the pastries along with butter and flour and eggs. While I was there that week, and the second and final time I visited them as an early teen (this time during winter, when I had a chance to try out those exotic and thrilling snowmobiles), I kept saying the word any chance I could get: kringla, kringla, kringla. I somehow sensed that those pastries epitomized a culture, a concept I only intuitively understood. I didn’t have much of a culture, living in the scrubby-wooded working class Oklahoma countryside. Or rather, I had a different kind of culture that I didn’t fit well with. Encountering Norwegian culture far outside
of Norway, far away from home in a land still mysterious to me among enormous swaying cornstalks, was like a confirmation that another of my intuitions was correct: happiness can exist. I don’t mean to say that my childhood wasn’t ever happy, only that I almost never found myself surrounded by people who all seemed to care about one another, eager to add numbers to their fold. I somehow belonged there, I felt. Or if not there, somewhere where community existed. In Oklahoma, after my visit to Iowa, life went on and I only tried kringlas a handful of times, usually around the holidays at my aunt and uncle’s house. In Iowa, kringlas had seemed like part of everyone’s daily lives, and yet, thinking of it now, I’m not so sure those Iowans weren’t just trotting them out for our, the visitors’, benefit. For all I know the recipe came from the back of a package of flour. No, on second thought, I’m convinced, at least with this one thing, that for my distant northern kinfolk kringlas were beloved, like an old family Bible or a baseball signed by Willie Mays. And it turns out, it wasn’t just my imagination. After a brief search on the internet, I found out that kringlas are big in the Northern American Midwest. By big I mean they now hold the title as the official state pastry of Wisconsin. There are festivals, contests, and boxes of them for sale at truck stops. Like with my distant relatives that I haven’t seen in years, family recipes are a source of pride. But again, are they really that tasty? Are they good enough to warrant such widespread adoration? Are these rich, buttery, sugary, soft and yet slightly chewy morsels that good? These icing-less, frill-less, small (and tempting) enough to fit by the pair into a greedy mouth— are they that good? Yes, I say. Emphatically, yes! 45 - MUNCH
MUNCH - ISSUE 9 munchmag.com
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