MUNCH ISSUE 8
FEATURES P 10 FRUIT AND CHEESE PAIRINGS - from photographer Heather Kinkel P 18 RAMEN TALK - with Project Slurp P 34 CAMPFIRE SALSA - Chris Castro of Salt & Smoke P 40 KING OF CARROTS AND CORIANDER Jeremy Wolfe shares dessert
RECIPES P8 romesco sauce P 26 ramen broth P 26 rosemary’s baby P 32 nutty cranberry granola P 33 protein pom pom P 37 campfire salsa P42 orange blossom ice cream P42 honey cinnamon muesli P 42 coriander syrup
C O N T E N T S
EDITOR Kimberly Hickerson designer/editor
In college I had the KISS acronym (Keep it simple, stupid) pounded into me as a principle of both design and journalism. I’d thought about it from time to time when working on a layout I had overcomplicated. However, lately KISS has become a life philosophy. (Can I count it as a life philosophy when I’ve only been thinking about it a month or two?) KISS has also become the prevailing theme to Issue 8, and it happened very organically. The recipes in this issue are some of the easiest, with the use of simple ingredients that don’t take much primping and prep time to put together. After taste testing every one I can also say they are some of my favorites. I was reminded over and over again these past few months of how short life can be, and how easy it is to take for granted all or the joys in life amidst the clutter of everyday anxieties. I’m an fidgety person by nature, which sometimes works to my advantage. ’I get shit done.’ However, in life getting done shouldn’t be the end goal, so I try to slow down and be appreciative of what the day has to offer me. As I write this I sit on a shaded patio, drinking juice. Two days ago I was at the beach with my little sister searching for seashells. A few evenings before that I was at the Blue Note watching some of my favorite people in this entire world do what they love. I feel as if everything I could ever want is in my life right now, if I could only see it. If I could take all the clutter away I’d find everything I was looking for. This issue is a study in appreciation of “less is more”. Taking simple ingredients and making them shine.
Heather Kinkel an editorial photographer that lives in Phoenix, Arizona with her husband, 3 kids and 10 chickens. When she’s not dreaming up her next gardening adventure, she’s loading the car up with kids and surfboards. thebirdiegirlco.com -photo series starts on page 10 – Chris Castro Avid homecook, husband and father, Castro is a busy man. When he’s not in the kitchen he’s working on any number of creative projects and/or spending time outoors with friends and family. saltandsmokefood.com -camfire salsa on page 34 –
Jeremy Wolfe Youngest cook at the dinner club Nani and a morel mushroom hunter, Wolfe is a guy that loves his sweets as much as his greens. -sweet ending on page 40 –
Thanks to: Joanna Wojewoda, Hal Moncrief, Ethan Hickerson, Jeff Chanchaleune, Rachel Cope, Alexis Austin, Joanna Gold, Erika Harris and Lacey Tackett as well as all of our readers!
CONTRIBUTORS
ROMESCO written by Kimberly Hickerson photos by Lacey Elaine Tackett
I’ve taken to doing a lot of “clean eating”, which, to me, just means trying to eat foods that are seasonal and have as little processing as possible. I do know I feel good when I eat “clean foods” and they are also the easiest foods to cook, because they require very little work. I feel like I have more energy on days when I eat this way. The more I make dishes like these the more I love cooking at home. The more I eat like this the less appealing restaurants seem to me. Romesco is a classic Spanish sauce that originated in Tarragona, Cataloina. Fishermen are said to have invented the sauce to go with fish, however this sauce really goes with everything. It’s usually made with nuts, roasted peppers, vinegar and oil. It’s a delicious springtime salsa. Chef Deborah Madison’s recipe from Vegetable Literacy was the inspiration for mine. Madison is a master of gardens and kitchens who produced a beautiful book with wonderful seasonal recipes where I first learned to cook a version of this sauce. Pictured here: goat cheese and ricotta on baguette with Romesco
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2 large roasted red bell peppers 2 roasted garlic cloves, smashed 1/2-cup almonds, toasted 2 roasted roma tomatoes 2 tablespoons parsley leaves 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon New Mexican chile (purchased at Forward Foods) 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil sea salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste Roast red peppers and garlic in the oven, let cool and remove seeds and skins, then toss in a food processor or blender with the almonds, tomatoes, parsley, lemon juice, paprika, Mexican chile and cayenne pepper. Once initially blended, slowly add about ½ cup of olive oil until you get to your desired consistency. Romesco sauce will keep for about a week in a sealed, air tight container in the fridge. Additional Romesco sauce application: white beans and kale; boiled potatoes; fish (of course), like grilled sardines, salmons, mackerel, shrimp; tossed with whole wheat pasta; over grilled chicken; and more. Pictured here: roasted fennel, green onions, carrots with Romesco
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SPRING FORWARD: fruit and cheese combinations photography and story by Heather Kinkel
I love cheese. Forget the fact that I am completely lactose-intolerant, I adore cheese, and there isn’t a variety I won’t try. Entertaining has always been my thing, and a spring porch party is my jam. A tastefully-selected cheese plate is almost always a regular element at most parties I host, and it’s always a winner. Going the extra mile for my guests by adding in some seasonal fruits makes each unique cheese flavor pop and makes for a fantastic appetizer or light meal. And it could possibly make them like me just a little bit more.
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Since spring is here, I decided to choose a few of my favorite seasonal fruits and pair them with a few of my favorite cheeses. Peaches, honeydew melon and blackberries were calling my name, and after a little experimenting, I was able to put the right cheese flavor with the right fruit tang, giving each bite the perfect flavor combination. Adding in fresh herbs, dried fruits and some nuts added the right amount of flavor variety and texture I was looking for – you could even (you really should!) add some gourmet crackers or fresh baguette.
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Tips on selecting cheeses: 1. Choose an odd number of varieties. 3 or 5 types of cheese work great. 2. Choose different “types” of cheeses. One soft (brie, goat), one semi-soft (bleu) and one harder cheese (aged cheddar, gruyere). 3. Purchasing 2 to 3 ounces of cheese per person is generally the perfect amount – allowing for plenty of tasting per guest, but not a ton of leftovers!
My combinations: 1. Peaches, dried figs, and honey sprinkled with fresh thyme served with bleu cheese. 2. Honeydew melon, prosciutto and dried cherries served with goat cheese. 3. Blackberries, marcona almonds, Meyer lemon jelly sprinkled with fresh lavender and served with gruyere.
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PROJECT SLURP
JEFF CHANCHALEUNE AND RACHEL COPE ON TH
by Kimberly Hickerson photos by Ethan Hickerson
HEIR NEW RAMEN-INSPIRED DINNER SERIES
s
Project Slurp is the latest brainchild
fun.] If you’re annoyed by others
of Jeff Chanchaleune, formerly the
slurping, the problem is actually
chef/co-owner of Kaiteki Ramen,
you, because it means you aren’t
and Rachel Cope, libations curator
slurping loudly enough. So, please,
and owner of Empire Slice House.
throw your uncultured table
This top-notch foodie team has
manners aside and slurp away.)
paired up cocktails and food for a ramen pop-up series that takes place over the next few months. Their successful kick-off dinner included a delicious bowl of ramen with pork belly, a memorable dessert of butter mochi cake with banana ice cream, and cocktails paired well enough to make me forget my coat at the evening’s event. A few days later, I got some more dirt on the dishes and cocktails they plan to serve up in OKC. (Side note: Slurping is cool. Not only does it signify to your dining partners that your food is slurpworthy; it also acts as a flavor-
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Q: What was the inspiration for Project Slurp? Jeff Chanchaleune: Inspiration for Project Slurp was to do something more off the truck — more of a sit-down environment so that patrons can enjoy ramen the way it should be: seated and noodles in a bowl. It’s also a way for us to test out some menu items and the concept for a future project we are working on. Rachel Cope: Jeff and I have been discussing doing a brick and mortar spot for ramen and robota since last year. This is
a good way for us to test out some of the dishes and, on my end, play with a style of drink that I don’t normally use much in the restaurants I’m currently involved in. Plus, we love to slurp. Q: Will Slurp’s menus change each time? JC: Slurp’s menu will change each time. Ramen toppings and flavors — spicy miso, roasted miso, etc. — will also change each time, but the base broth will stay the same. We hope to create a different ramen dish each time.
libation pairings? RC: We wanted our dinners to be different. A few of the [popup dinners] we have been to in OKC are BYOB, which is great, but the challenge was to see if we could tackle not only the difficulty of executing a stellar food menu but to see if we had any chops or skills with craft cocktails.
RC: We really want to challenge ourselves to create as many new ideas as possible on both ends of the dinner.
JC: I think to get a full restaurant experience, or even a seated-dinner experience, you need booze. Food and beverages bring diners together. We wanted a fun atmosphere where diners could let loose and relax. It’s also a challenge to pair items with libations and vice versa. It makes it a little more fun.
Q: What made you decide to do
Q: Speaking of pairings, what
brought you two together for this project? RC: I’ve actually known Jeff for about eight years. We crossed paths again in a culinary setting a year or two ago and have been talking nonstop ever since about doing a project together. We both have an undeniable passion for food and drinks and Slurp is a way for us to explore the possibilities. JC: Rachel and I go way back. I’ve always been in the kitchen and she has always run the front of the house and bar. It was just the right idea to come together on pairings and collaborate using our expertise in those areas. We wanted to do something cool, so why not bring our ideas together to create a full restaurant experience? It was a team effort that made this happen. Q: What is the goal of Project Slurp?
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JC: The goal of Slurp is to really have fun and do what we want, make whatever cocktails we want and hope that patrons enjoy it as much as we do. Project Slurp gives us a canvas to work with to test out our ideas. RC: [The goal is] to gauge peoples’ interest in our ramen and Japanese inspired libations so that when we do build a shop we know where we stand with the guests. Also, to provide OKC with something cool to further the culinary scene of this upand-coming city. We are always reading about cool stuff going on in LA, NYC, Chicago, and we want to be part of a group that brings those ideas to life in our home state. Q: What chefs inspire you? JC: David Chang, Andy Ricker, Ivan Orkin, Eddie Huang, René Redzepi, Paul Qui, Roy Choi, and chefs I’ve worked with or under.
RC: David Chang. I feel like most people would associate him with the hipsterization — yes, I made that word up — of ramen and legit Japanese restaurants. Also, I’m a big fan of Ivan Orkin (if you’ve heard of Ivan Ramen, this is the dude). Grant Achatz out of Chicago is a big one for me for a few reasons: His battle with tongue cancer was amazingly brave and just shows the absolute dedication to his craft, and also the level of talent he really possesses. Plus, Aviary was the most inspiring bar I’ve ever been to in my life. Mindblowing, really. Danny Bowien continues to amaze me with his inventive dishes and complete lack of care for what people think belongs in certain types of restaurants. For example, he’s doing pizza at Mission Chinese, and it’s awesome. OK: What is the strangest drink you have ever had? RC: That would have to be the rooiboos tea served in a
laboratory-type Bunsen burner/ beaker/bong at Aviary in Chicago. Awesome and insane. JC: Strangest drink? Hot red wine spiced with cinnamon in Paris. Wasn’t too bad; just strange. OK: What is the strangest food you’d encourage others to try? RC: I once had roasted pig face at Girl and the Goat in Chicago. That was epic — snout and all. Jellyfish in Vancouver … that was a weird one. I didn’t really enjoy it but it was interesting to try. JC: Not strange to me but strange to some: chicken feet and beef stomach at any dim sum joint; grilled chicken hearts or duck heads; pig face at Girl and the Goat. Nomz. This interview orginally appearead at www.oxfordkarma.com
RAMEN BROTH 5lbs chicken bones 1 carrot 1 onion 1/2lb scallion or leek ends 2oz ginger 1 head of garlic Basic starter chicken broth for ramen will start with chicken bones roasted in the oven at 450 for about 45-60 minutes. Transfer to a stockpot and cover with water. Bring that to a boil, than turn it down to simmer on low for about 6-8 hours. Replenish with water every 30 minutes or so. Roast the garlic, ginger, and onion and throw these in the last two hours of cooking along with some whites of a leek or scallions and carrots. Be sure to skim any scum off the surface so the broth doesn’t discolor. Strain and season to taste with salt, soy and mirin (slurp away.)
by Jeff Chanchaleune
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ROSEMARY’S BABY rosemary sprigs Hibiki Suntory Whiskey Yellow Chartreuse Toast rosemary sprigs (about 3 sprigs) in a sauté pan for about 5 minutes, then drop them into a giant mason jar 750 ML bottles of 12 year Hibiki suntory whiskey. Seal it up and let it infuse at room temp for 24 hours. Remove the rosemary and bottle the infused whiskey back into it’s original containers (which if you have not seen are beautiful). For the drink itself: 2 oz. Hibiki, .5 oz of Yellow Chartreuse (that really made it) .25-.5 oz of 1 to 1 simple syrup (depending on how sweet you like your cocktails). Build the cocktail in a mixing glass. Stir, don’t shake, until the drink is properly cooled, then strain over a “king cube” into a rocks glass and add a fresh rosemary sprig. Ta-da.
by Rachel Cope
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Nutty Cranberry Granola photo and recipe by Joanna Wojewoda
Protein Pom Poms photo by Alexis Austin and recipe by Joanna Gold
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Protein Pom Poms Yield: 23-26 balls 1/2 cup of honey 1 cup of any nut butter 1 cup of rolled oats 1/2 scoop of protein powder (optional) 1/3 cup of chopped dates 2 Tablespoons of chia seeds 2 Tablespoons (rounded) of wheat germ 2 pinches sea salt 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 cup of freeze dried fruit (blended to dust) In a bowl, mix all the dry ingredients except the freeze dried fruit. In a small pan combine honey and nut butter. Melt together on low and remove from heat once they are incorporated. Add the dry mix and fold in until everything is completely mixed. Prepare a sheet pan with wax paper. Pour the mixture onto the wax paper and spread it evenly. With another piece of wax paper, press the mixture until its completely even. It will spread to fit most of the pan. Let cool and dry out enough to handle. This can be 2 hours or as much as overnight. Use a pizza cutter to create even lines and make squares an inch X inch. Roll into a tight ball and toss them in the “fruit dust�. Eat immediately or refrigerate for a healthy snack for later. Recipe by Chef Joanna Gold of Gold Plated - goldplatedfood.com
Granola 3 cups old-fashioned rolled oats ¼ cups wheat bran 2 tablespoons sesame seeds 1 cup almonds, chopped ½ cup pecans, chopped ½ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup raw honey ¼ cup maple syrup ¼ cup cranberries Preheat oven to 300 F/145C. Combine oats, wheat bran, sesame seeds, almonds, pecans and cinnamon in a large bowl and mix well. In a small sauce pan over low heat stir in olive oil, honey and maple syrup. Stir until liquids start to combine. Pour over dry ingredients and stir well. Bake for 20-30 minutes, or until golden brown, stirring occasionally. Stir in cranberries. Let sit on a rack and cool. The granola becomes crunchy as it cools. Store in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator. This recipe and more like it at wildthymeblog.com
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CAMPFIRE SALSA
by Chris Castro
Now that the weather is getting warmer, one of our favorite things to do is enjoy our food outdoors. Not only do we like to eat outside, but we like to prepare our food outside as well. One of our favorite warm weather staples is campfire roasted salsa. Many evenings have been spent gathered with friends, roasting chiles over our backyard fire pit, enjoying a good beer and conversation. Although it might be tempting to reach for a jar of the pre-made stuff, nothing compares to fresh made and, believe me, it is just as easy. This recipe is based on the salsa I grew up having in my house when I was young. I remember going camping and hearing my mother charring chiles over a crackling fire. She would never have to call us to dinner as the smell would stop me in my tracks and bring me back to the campsite where I knew some great food awaited me. If there is no time for a campfire, no worries, this can be done on the stove-top in a hot dry skillet.
3 cloves of garlic, peeled + 2 roasted Serrano chiles + about 5 roa
asted tomatoes + sea salt + cilantro (optional) + onion (optional)
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Grab a couple of cold beers, gather some sticks and logs and make yourself a campfire. Wait for the fire to get really hot. Don’t look for huge flames, and let the fire die down just a bit. If you can feel heat on your hand while standing over it, the fire is ready. I have a cooking grate over our fire but you can just as easily use roasting forks, much like roasting marshmallows. Place your chiles and tomatoes over the fire, drink some beer, have a good chat and enjoy the smell. The chiles will start to blister and pop and the tomatoes will sizzle and release some juice (if roasting inside do this in a hot dry skillet over high heat). In a molcajete (lava rock mortar and pestle found at Mexican grocers) or the cup of a blender or processor, mash (blend) garlic and salt to a paste. Add chiles, stem removed. Mash or blend until chunky. Add one tomato at a time and mash or blend until chunky. After 3 tomatoes test salsa for heat and salt. Keep adding tomatoes and salt until it is to your liking. Add chopped onion and cilantro if desired. Brag to your friends about how good the salsa you just made is. Note: This salsa recipe can be completely transformed by swapping out dried chiles for the roasted chiles or roasted tomatillos for the roasted tomatoes. I hope you enjoy it!
king of carrots&
illustrated by Erika Harris
&coriander fin dessert
recipe by Jeremy Wolfe
“ comes on like a
bowl of trix & leaves you like a carrot cake.“ - Jeremy Wolfe
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Carrots Poached in Simple Syrup 1 carrot sliced into coins 1:1 simple syrup Boil carrots in simple syrup for 5 minutes. Then turn off heat, let cool and remove slices when ready to serve. Orange Blossom Ice Cream 100 grams separated whites 100 grams sugars (raw sugar) 450 grams milk 225 grams heavy cream 20 grams of orange blossom extract Put in ice cream maker 30 minutes. Then set in the freezer until ready to serve. Honey Cinnamon Muesli 1 1/2 cups rolled oats 1/8 cup veg oil, grape seed oil 1/4 - 1/2 cup of honey 1/4 cup chopped pecans Tablespoon grated Cinnamon Take oil, honey, and cinnamon and toss with oats. Blend it to make sure everything is incorporated. 355 degrees for 15 min Coriander Syrup 1 cup water 1 cup sugar 1.5tbsp coriander 1 thumb sized ginger knob Combine coriander, ginger and simple syrup. Super reduce until mixture is thick and about a 1/4 its original size.
Each serving: 1 canelle scoop of Ice cream 1 oz of corrander syrup 1/4 cup muesli Top with a couple sugared carrots, mint leaves and a pinch salt
MUNCH - ISSUE 8 munchmag.com
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