Guadalajara

GUADALAJARA

CULTURAL DIVERSITY IN MEXICO’S SECOND-LARGEST CITY

Guadalajara is Mexico’s second-largest city and the capital of the state of Jalisco. It follows that this is a thriving, buzzing metropolis, at the forefront of Mexico’s development into one of the world’s most dynamic countries.

It is both a historical and cultural centre as well as a technological hub, where visitors can find both the rustic charms of colonial-era Mexico within a short walk of sleek, modern, high-end developments. There are numerous distinctive neighbourhoods all contained within one city and each with its own characteristic atmosphere.

Guadalajara offers the visitor the chance to sample a great diversity of attractions; to pack a day full of sightseeing and culture, fine dining and luxurious accommodation. Or you can simply immerse yourselves fully in contemporary city living: absorbing the energy of the 1.5 million residents as you meander among them.

The city of Guadalajara was founded in 1532 and quickly established itself at the heart of the region’s trade and agriculture. The city really began to boom during the late 18th century, as Mexico gradually wriggled free of Spanish colonial rule. There was a population explosion and a new university opened in 1792, drawing the brightest people of the land to its art, theology, law and medicine faculties. Traders similarly began to prosper even more, gathering the wares produced by the farmers surrounding the city before exporting them far and wide.

Traditional costume, Guadalajara ©CPTM/Foto: Ricardo Espinosa-reo

As Mexico found its feet as an independent nation, Gudalajara continued to thrive. Improving transport links to the United States made it an increasingly attractive destination for businesses and vacationers alike.

With such a storied history, the cultural scene in contemporary Guadalajara is second to none in the country. The many plazas and courtyards, as well as the streets themselves, are frequently transformed into the setting for music and performance. More formally, the city’s magnificent Teatro Degollado—a beautiful neoclassical theatre and concert hall dating from 1886—puts on a wide variety of entertainments, including classical music and ballet. It is open year-round for visitors, who can tour the building in between performances.

Guadalajara is also renowned for its fiestas—including the annual Fiesta de Octubre, a month during which no night passes without numerous concerts or cultural gatherings, many of which are free.

The central Plaza Tapatia often becomes the focal point of much of Guadalajara’s activity. This wide pedestrianised area covers seven city blocks and is a gathering point for street performers, including tra- ditional mariachi bands. They also have a square of their own named after them: the neighbouring Plaza de los Mariachis. Many of the city’s most celebrated sights also surround Plaza Tapatia or are a short walk away, including both the Metropolitan Cathedral of Guadalajara and the Instituto Cultural de Cabañas, both of which are spectacular architectural gems.

Work first began on the cathedral in the mid 16 th century, and it has survived everything that 450 years could throw at it. This includes two earthquakes in the 19 th century during which its original towers were destroyed. They have since been rebuilt and the cathedral still dominates the skyline of downtown Guadalajara, boasting evidence of gothic, baroque and neoclassical influence. It is packed with exceptional artworks, stained-glass windows and more than 10 expertly crafted altars. (Another example of Guadalajara’s fine religious architecture can be found at the Basilica de Zapopan, built in 1690, which is north-west of the city centre.)

The Instituto Cultural de Cabañas is another must see in central Guadalajara, and was inscribed on UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1997. Originally built at the beginning of the 19 th century as a hospital-cum-refuge for the city’s disadvantaged residents, this 5.7-acre complex of buildings is now prized for its innovative neoclassical designs as well as the cultural treasures housed there. These include a series of 57 frescoes by one of Mexico’s most celebrated artist José Clemente Orozco, which were installed in the 1930s. The whole complex boasts more than 20 exhibition rooms set around spacious courtyards and terraces.

An extraordinary list of other museums and cultural institutions are also spread across Guadalajara, many of which are similarly housed in unique centuries-old buildings. It means that visitors can marvel at both the contents of the museums and the often spectacular buildings themselves.

This is certainly true at the Museo de las Artes, which can be found in a French Renaissance-style building dating from 1917, which was once part of the university. These days its 14 galleries provide a rich and ever-changing showcase for contemporary Mexican art, along with a permanent collection that includes another selection of Orozco murals.

The Museo Nacional de la Cerámica Tonalá has a peerless collection of ceramics, most of which were created in the region and some dating from as far back as 500 BC. Meanwhile the Museo de Arte Huichol, which can be found inside the grounds of the Zapopan Basilica, also has its history rooted firmly in this part of Mexico. The Huichol people (also known as the Wixáritari), who have lived for centuries across Jalisco, Zacatecas and Durango, are world-renowned for their vivid art and crafts. The museum shows exceptional examples of their dazzling, colourful work.

After a full day of cultural exploration, visitors can feast in any number of highly respected restaurants across Guadalajara, where traditional Mexican cooking becomes an art form in itself.