Caving in Mexico

CAVING

THE STATES OF YUCATAN, CAMPECHE AND QUINTANA ROOARE HOME TO MORE THAN 6,000 MAGICAL CENOTES

Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula is among the world’s most attractive destinations. It is dotted with awe-inspiring ancient ruins; it is lined by luxurious beaches; it is home to some of the most delicious cuisine in Latin America; and its charming cities combine history and modernity with great style.

And that’s only what you can see above sea level.

For anybody in the know, much of this region of Mexico is even more captivating after plunging hundreds of feet through the ground. The Yucatan peninsula is famed for its network of cenotes—that is, naturally formed holes in the limestone bedrock revealing vast pools of fresh water trapped below ground.

The water can spread for miles through an underground system of caverns, with the cenote not only providing the gateway to this magical kingdom, but also often defined by huge pools at the surface. The ancient Maya are known to have explored them, drawing fresh water to their temples and throwing offerings into the holes in thanks. It means that as contemporary explorers began investigating this amazing network— mapping its corridors, channels and chambers—they found ancient artefacts left there from thousands of years before.

Cenote Chikin Ha in Quintana Roo state

But even these intriguing manmade offerings are no match for the extraordinary, natural, subterranean landscapes revealed via the cenotes. Tight passages suddenly broaden into majestic caves; sunlight slants across extraordinary rock formations. There are all forms of mineral deposits known as speleothems: stalactites, stalagmites, columns, drapery and flowstone. Cenotes are also one of the best places to encounter a phenomenon known as a “halocline”, where fresh water and salt water layer on top of one another and create a unique visual effect.

Even if you would rather not dive to great depths, the surface pools offer incredible conditions for swimming: the water is mineral-rich and crystal clear, and it’s all the more spectacular when found in the middle of dense jungle. Verdant forest lines the walls and provides a unique cathedral-like canopy. Only nature could design such a magical and mystical place.

Diving in a cenote

Cenotes can be found across all of the states of Yucatan, Campeche and Quintana Roo—there are more than 6,000 of them—and are in easy reach of many of the most popular hubs for visitors. Here is a selection of some of the most amazing: Cenote Azul: Home to millions of multicoloured fish and easy to reach via a wooden path, this is a great choice for families exploring cenotes for the first time.

Cenote Calavera: Though close to the town of Tulum and easily reached by car, this remains tranquil and rarely too busy. It offers excellent conditions for long and deep dives, as well as some terrific spots to leap from on high into the water.

Cenote Car Wash: Located deep in the middle of the jungle, the waters here appear a vivid green thanks to the various species of underwater vegetation. Numerous turtles and fish make their home among the dazzling stalactites.

Cenote Chaak Tun: Expert guides offer two-hour long spelunking trips into this popular cenote, very close to the centre of Playa del Carmen. Easily accessible, with very good amenities and options for equipment hire.

Cenote Dos Ojos: Located in the middle of the wonderful Dos Ojos park, teeming with beautiful flora and fauna, there are 28 entrances to a spectacular 50-mile network of underwater caves. “Dos Ojos” means “two eyes” and there are two distinct experiences to be had: one bright and clear, bathed in natural daylight, the other emerging through a dark channel into a chamber known as “Bat Cave” after its winged residents.

Cenote Escondido: Popular among divers of both types: those who like to leap head first from cliffs into deep and crystal-clear waters, and those hoping to explore magnificent underwater landscapes.

Cenote LabnaHa: The cenotes here are the principal attraction in an allround activity park. There are zip lines and kayak tours too, but most people come to snorkel and swim in the LabnaHa and Sacred River cenotes.

Cenote Sac Actún: Known for its incredibly fresh and clear blue waters— divers might want to rent a neoprene wetsuit to stay warm—this is an ideal spot to try cave diving in addition to cenote exploration.

Cenote Tankah: This is one of the most unusual cenotes in the region as its location close to the ocean means both seawater and fresh water combines, sustaining a wide variety of fish. The perfect place to kayak and snorkel beneath the mangroves.

Cenote Zacil Ha

Cenote Zacil Ha: Tastefully converted into an eco-tourism complex, Zacil Ha (which means “clear water”) has it all: deep jade pools ringed by a flat wooden floor, plus access to a 35-metre deep cavern featuring mighty stalactites. Also has equipment rental, changing rooms and a bar/restaurant.

Cenote Angelita: Popular among experienced divers, this is one of the deepest cenotes: a single pool that descends about 60 metres. Around 30 metres down, where fresh and saltwater meet, is a hydrogen sulfide cloud, which sustains underwater trees.

Most of the time, the fresh water in cenotes is crystal clear, allowing for exceptional visibility and the chance to examine the underwater treasures very easily. It can get dark at times down there, though, particularly on some of the more demanding dives, which makes it all the more important to be with a qualified guide and to listen to instructions carefully.

If you do, cenote diving is safe, spectacular and something you will remember forever.