Campeche

CAMPECHE

HIGH CULTURE, ANCIENT WONDERMENTAND MAGNIFICENT UNTOUCHED FOREST

When travellers come across a city whose fortifications still stand tall centuries since they were built, they can safely assume one thing: what lies behind must be worth protecting. This has never been more accurate than in the case of Campeche, the magnificent port city whose mighty 17th-century bulwarks still rise defiant along the coast of the Gulf of Mexico, and that ring one of the undisputed jewels of the Yucatan peninsula.

Behind these thick walls and bastions, as every marauding pirate once knew, lies one of Mexico’s most treasured possessions: a city of exceptional historical significance and lasting beauty. Furthermore—and beyond the city itself—the broad and diverse state of Campeche presents evidence of thousands of years of civilisation amid an abundance of natural marvels.

This a region of high culture, ancient wonderment and sumptuous untouched forest. What was once a centre of the Mayan civilisation, before yielding to the settlers of the New World, has remained home to numerous endangered species of flora and fauna—as well as of one of Mexico’s most recognisable and iconic items of clothing.

From its founding in 1540 until the 19 th century, Campeche was one of the most significant ports along the Gulf of Mexico, whose local traders grew rich by exporting valuable logwood dye, much sought after for colouring fabrics. Raids from the sea were commonplace until city authorities were persuaded to build impenetrable fortifications in the late 17 th century. These walls created a bustling colonial hub inside, with the Cathedral at the centre of a chequerboard arrangement of streets. They were lined with the grandiose mansions built by Campeche’s thriving merchants, alongside buildings constructed in the ensuing centuries to Renaissance and baroque designs.

View from Edzna

Much of the colonial era pomp is still visible in present day Campeche, with seven of the original eight bastions still standing. Visitors can tour along and through the fortifications: two of the bulwarks now house the city’s history museum; another is a library; and a third is part of the botanical garden. Meanwhile two hilltop forts—San Jose to the east and San Miguel to the west—are now also galleries and museums. Inscribing the fortified town on its World Heritage List, UNESCO described Campeche as an exemplar of unique military engineering.

Around 175 miles south-west of the city, near to Mexico’s borders with Belize and Guatemala, lies another of the country’s most awe-inspiring monuments: the remarkable Mayan ruins of Calakmul. This vast site, nestled in the verdant Tierras Bajas tropical forest, ranks among the most significant cultural landmarks in all of the Americas and is recognised on UNESCO’s World Heritage List as a mixed property, comprising both the ancient Mayan city and the protected tropical reserve, the largest in Mexico, that surrounds it.

In 1931, the ruins of nearly 7,000 major stone structures were discovered here, spread across approximately 27 square miles and they represent only a fraction of what archaeologists believe are still concealed beneath the dense and wondrous forest canopy. Evidence suggests a city of up to 65,000 inhabitants once flourished here, supported by a sophisticated metropolitan infrastructure, including water canals and reservoirs.

The earliest constructions are thought to date from around 400 BC, though most of what can now be seen was probably built during a 500-year heyday prior to the city’s mysterious abandonment in around 900 AD. At the centre of it all sits the great pyramid—known simply as “Structure II”—whose base covers five acres and which rises 174 feet above the trees. It is the largest Mayan structure yet discovered anywhere, and visitors can scale its summit to find spectacular views across the landscape, punctuated by the peaks of several other ancient pyramids.

Pink Flamingoes in the Arena Island

The remoteness of Calakmul means it is never crowded—unless you count the vast array of wildlife that thrives in the 1.8 million acres of biosphere reserve. Jaguar, tapir, deer and various monkeys all prosper here, as well as nearly 400 species of birds and more than 2,000 types of plants.

Another Mayan site can be found in Edzna, which is no more than around an hour’s drive from Campeche city and reachable by public transport. Similar to Calakmul, evidence suggests that Edzna was founded around 400 BC and reached its peak, with approximately 25,000 residents, in about 900 AD.

This compact but extraordinary site boasts some spectacular ruins around its central plaza, and offers a fascinating insight into the daily lives of the ancient Itza people, who likely farmed the surrounding valley and built an irrigation system through the urban area. It is a wonderfully textured city, with monuments constructed in layers on top of others, demonstrating the great architectural skills of this ancient civilisation. These talents are never more evident than in the case of the Great Acropolis, which covers around four square miles, and on which sits the centrepiece Cinco Pisos, or “Five Storeys”, a magnificent tiered structure.

It is worth hanging around past sundown as the whole city is artistically illuminated in a daily light show, accompanied by traditional music.

On the subject of tradition, visitors to the state of Campeche should not leave without stopping in the small town of Bécal, and picking up one of Mexico’s most distinctive garments. Since the mid 19 th century, when a Catholic priest visiting from Ecuador first taught the locals the art of weaving hats from the leaves of the Jipijapa palm, Bécal has become synonymous with the hat trade.

Artisans from the town pride themselves on producing the best examples of the familiar panama hat, and a thriving export market—as well as a steady footfall of satisfied tourists— suggest they have every reason for their confidence.