Let's eat december issue

Dec 2013

No. 7

Tourist Spot

Take a voyage to Thailand courtesy of Coca

Snowed In

Bono’s frozen treats

Against the Grain

Olive Tree’s take on a ‘Tapas Bar’

Bon Appetit!

Mesclun’s Gallic mix

Let’s Eat Issue 7

WHAT'S INSIDE

Dec 2013

p.7 Olive Tree Kitchen and Bar On the cover: Pacific Sunset from Coca Cover Photo by GABBY CANTERO

p.14 Mesclun

FERNANDO MIGUEL BELMONTE Publisher DON JAUCIAN Managing Editor THYSZ ESTRADA Editorial Associate SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ Contributing Writer

p.12 Coca p.10

Bono Gelato

GABBY CANTERO Contributing Photographer LUCIEN DY TIOCO Head of Sales & Marketing ALLAN PALOR Visualizer

p.17

Coupons

ANNALYN DELGADO Editorial Assistant

Golden Letter Publishing, 1497 E. Rodriguez Ave., Quezon City For inquiries, call 5277901 local 132 or email letseat062013@gmail.com

01

Voyage to Italy

Chef Rob Pengson brings in Manila’s first antipasti bar

By SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ Photos by GABBY CANTERO

02

O

TKB has such an esteemed culinary pedigree, it’s almost intimidating.

The three month young restaurant, best described as an Italian Antipasti bar, is the newest baby of Chef Rob Pengson, the culinary mastermind behind one of the city’s most successful and highly regarded dining concepts, The Goose Station, the temple of degustation that has a permanent slot reserved in every Top Ten restaurant list.

Olive Tree is a non-traditional take on a “tapas bar”. Not unlike its Spanish cousin, the Italian “antipasti”, technically, is a “before the meal” series of indulgences, which, more often than not, are so filling and so fulfilling, they often take the place of the main meal. Not surprising, as these traditional 08 LET’S EAT

03 European appetizers—smoked meats, artisanal cheeses, pickled vegetables— must always be accompanied by ice cold cervezas, premium reds and whites, and classic and contemporary cocktails.

The Bar is a key component of Olive Tree, and upon entering its doors, a long, elevated, dramatic dark wood bar dominates the left side of the restaurant, stocked with all the essential bourbons, single malts, tequilas, and vodkas. It’s a welcome sight, an oasis of bottled pleasures, and the whole becomes greater than the sum of its parts when the liquors are combined to create OTKB’s signature longdrinks. The Manila Mule is a vodka and ginger slush that’s almost too pretty to sip, garnished with a bright orange slice of dried mango and a deep

HEALTHY OPTIONS

Apple, Gorgonzola and Walnuts Pizza Pan Seared Salmon Tuna Stufato in Olive Oil OTKB Salad

TIP 1. Hit the bar up after work, especially during weekends since some cocktails are in promo.

2. Portions are usually large so it’s best to go in groups.

PRICE RANGES

04 green calamansi. But it is called a mule, so get ready for its kick. The Chocolate Alexander tastes like liquid s’mores, and looks like it too: served in a cup with a trio of toasted marshmallows and a butter cookie on the side, the cognac infused chocolate beverage is made extremely richer with a dollop of cream. Call it a “comfort cocktail”.

The Kitchen is the other half of OTKB, and it’s manned by a former student of Chef Rob in CCA, Chef Jonvic Mangibin, fresh from a six year stint in the land down under. The young chef is deservedly proud of what he and his mentor have curated: an all new menu of antipasti, pizzas, pastas, and proteins for the main courses. Together, they have composed some of the most colorful, most playful plates in all of the city, each one a carnival of tastes and textures!

The Apple, Gorgonzola, and Walnut Pizza is a prime example. A perfectly charred crust, a jam-like sweetness from steeped dates and raisins, a little tartness from braised red cabbage, and nutty notes from the nuts and the arugula leaves that finish the dish. The Sopranos Sunday Gravy, as heavy as the

heavies from one of the best television series of all time, has everything to satisfy a goombah: meatballs, ox tail, tripe, liver, and marrow on a bed of al dente pasta, the whole covered in a confetti of freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano.

Primus inter pares, however, is the Porchetta. It’s one of my favorite new dishes of 2013, for these most compelling reasons: a sous vide of pork belly with a Marsala glaze, a deconstructed apple pie in lieu of apple sauce, and a generous slice of liver pâté for yes, that “Mang Tomas” accent. A complex presentation, but everything works, every single component complementing the rest magnificently.

I have to admit, at first, the thought of another new Italian restaurant didn’t exactly rock my boat, but I also have to admit, this Olive Tree didn’t just exceed my expectations, it totally rocked my world.

Apple, Gorgonzola, and Walnuts Pizza Pan-seared Salmon Porchetta Burger Sliders

01 02 03 04

Mains — P320 (Fish and Frites 220G) to P2890 (Rib Eye Bistecca) Pizza — P375 (Margherita) to P420 (Apple, Gorgonzola, and Walnuts, Squid Ink) Pasta — P350 (Mushroom Alfredo) to P495 (Blue Crab and Morzzarella Risotto) Antipasti Bar — P195 (Zeppole, OTKB Minestrone) to P430 (Burger Sliders) Cocktails — P250 (Amaretto Sour, Daiquiri, Mojito) to P290 (Cosmopolitan) Sangria — P250 (Rosso Sangria and Bianco Sangria) Special Mixes — P250 (Manila Mule and Ginger-Lychee Mojito) to P290 (Chocolate Alexander and Velvet Corset) G/F B3, 9th Avenue, Bonifacio High Street, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig.

Call (02) 823 0366

OTKB.bhs

LET’S EAT 09

LET’S EAT SWEETS

Snowed In

By SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ Photo by GABBY CANTERO

O

nce upon a time, two beautiful ladies went to the Gelato Academy in Italy. They were assigned very delicious duties. They brought home all they learned, and now, they work for me.

My name is Bono.”

Bono’s Angels are Rea and Zarah, two entrepreneurs who have created the most addicting, the most compelling, and the most unique gelato flavors in the Philippines, all made fresh daily. From Speculoos Crunch to Taho (with sago), from Salted Caramel Popcorn to Root Beer Float, from Malted Cookie Dough to Bourbon Butterscotch, every spoonful is absolutely “buono”, which of course, means “good” in Italian.

Bono Artisanal Gelato is located at G/F The Podium, 2/F SM Makati, LG/F Aura Premier Visit gelatobono.com or call (02) 551 0587 BonoGelato

BONOgelato

BONOgelato

LET’S EAT 11

Bangkok Calling Coca’s excellent take on Thai cuisine

T

is the season for family reunions and for renewing ties with long-lost friends. A time for celebrating love and reaffirming life. It’s Christmas, and it’s the best time of the year to savor the delights of Coca.

Our clan discovered the restaurant in SM Aura soon after it opened, and quite a few of our special occasions have been celebrated there this year; and for a megapolis with dozens of new establishments launching in quick succession, to keep on coming back to Coca in particular, is certainly a vote of confidence for its cuisine. Even more impressive, the compliments have consistently come from my very critical and difficult-to-please aunts and uncles, the Hizons of Pampanga, a long line of gourmands, chefs and cooks, renowned in our home province for their discriminating tastes and refined palates.

The restaurant offers a luxe menu of Thai and Chinese specials, most of which are making their first appearance in the Philippines. I instantly fell for the Durian Spring Roll, a surprisingly delicate introduction to the fruit that “tastes like heaven and smells like hell”. The durian’s creamy texture is highlighted, and its more aromatic notes, subdued.

Embraced by a crunchy fried wrap, it enables wary diners to partake and discover the unparalleled flavors of this most exotic fruit. The Roast Duck Salad fascinates with its melange of savory duck skin, cool crisp cucumber, sensuous strips of jellyfish, and refreshingly sweet notes from lush watermelon cubes. And my favorite item? The Prawns in Salted Egg Sauce: large orange crustaceans lushly coated with the eggs’ silky, bright yellow yolk. Definitely not the usual pandan chicken and fried rice combinations.

Coca has had a rich history: its first branch opened over half a century ago in 1957, as a tiny 20-seat eatery in

12 LET’S EAT

By SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ Photos by GABBY CANTERO

01

HEALTHY OPTIONS

Braised Tofu with Taiwan Bokchoy in Clay Pot Eggplant in Chinese Anchovy Sauce Sweet and Sour Tofu

TIP

1. If you’re the type who has a hard time choosing what dishes to order, the crown symbol next to the dish names will guide you to Coca’s recommended dishes.

2. Dishes have big portions so make room for food! Coca is perfect for family gatherings or for big groups who have big appetites.

PRICE RANGES 02 Bangkok’s Surawong district. It soon achieved a measure of popularity for its hotpot with twin calderas: one with a spicy Tom Yung broth, the other, a milder, soothing chicken stock. Diners loved the concept of cooking for themselves on their own tables, enhanced and spiked by Coca’s signature “Suki” sauce, a confidential concoction with hints of lime, a little chilli, notes of garlic, and lots of coriander.

The Coca chain of restaurants is now in ten countries in Asia, including Japan, Korea, Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore, and to this day, the “Yin and Yang” hotpot is still its most popular item throughout the region. For large families with large appetites, I recommend the Emperor’s Platter, a king-sized selection of premium meats and seafood, all primed for personalized preferences.

But at Coca, the royal experience doesn’t end with the cooking. It continues with the “Khao Tom”.

After enjoying an empire’s worth of bounty, the remaining soup, now infused with intense flavor, is

used to steep and boil freshly steamed rice, eggs, fried garlic, and spring onions. The result? One of the most deeply satisfying congees ever.

But no matter how filling the main dishes are, make sure to allocate sufficient tummy space for the “Galorgee”. Reminiscent of a deep fried “palitaw”, the dessert, both crunchy and chewy, is sprinkled with crushed peanuts, sesame seeds, and white sugar. Indeed, a very happy ending!

Dining in Coca, with its elegant surroundings and its exciting offerings, is always an excellent experience. It’s definitely one of the best restaurants to open anywhere in the country this year.

Appetizer and Salad — P280 (Fried Shrimp Wanton) to P720 (large House Special Roast Duck) Prawn and Crab — P980 (Crab in Yellow Curry Sauce and Cab with Garlic and Chili) to P1350 (Steamed King Crab with Egg Custard) Fish and Seafood — P400 (Live Steamed White Shrimp with Lime Sauce) to P1700 (Pacific Sunset) Beef — P400 (Stir-fried Beef with Cashew Nuts) to P650 (Steamed US Prime Striploin in Soy Sauce and Ginger) Chicken — P380 (Chicken with Garlic and Chili and Stir-fried Chicken with Cashew Nuts) to P650 (Coca Portugese Chicken Curry) Pork — P350 (Sweet and Sour Pork) to P650 (Steamed Kurobota in Soy Sauce and Ginger) Tofu and Vegetables — P300 (Stir-fried Morning Glory with Garlic and Chili) to P400 (Braised Tofu with Taiwan Bokchoy in a Clay Pot) Rice and Noodles — P200 (Coca Yang Chow) to P320 (Coca Noodles) 5th Floor, Sky Park, SM Aura Premier, Bonifacio Global City Taguig.

Call (02) 218 1110

01 Roast duck salad 02 Coca noodles LET’S EAT 13

COCArestaurantPH

01

The French Connection Mesclun stays true to its concept of the Gallic mix

By SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ Photos by GABBY CANTERO

M

y number one restaurant in all of Serendra used to be located on the site where Mesclun Bistro now stands.

It was a friendly French brasserie called Cuillere, and it served the best Croque Madame in town. The quintessential French sandwich is basically a grilled cheese, but with gruyere rather than cheddar, the buttery bread slathered with Bechamel sauce, then topped with a perfectly fried sunny side up egg. Très décadent!

I first fell in love with the “Madame” half a decade ago, back in 2008, and it was an affair that lasted for almost five years. I mourned her loss when I noticed that Cuillere had shut its doors for good, but I was comforted when I realized that another favorite would take its place. And wonder of wonders, it was another rustic restaurant with fine French fare.

Mesclun and Cuillere share more than just a menu of French comfort food classics; it just so happens that both, the brand new bistro and the brasserie of yore, also share the same Chef Patron: Katrina Kuhn-Alcantara, the gorgeous, statuesque lady who’s also quite famous for her non-French venture, Chuck’s Deli, “Home of the Slabwich” and the best choriburgers outside Boracay.

The name “Mesclun” is from the Provençal “mescla”: to mix; and literally means mixture. Most often, it refers to a salad of mixed young salad leaves—young leafy lettuce, arugula, chevril, and endives. True to its namesake, I guess that’s the reason why Mesclun’s menu works so well: a mixture of Chef Katrina’s admittedly Gallic inclinations and her deeply rooted passion for Pinoy food. To merge both in one restaurant, and to simultaneously please both her French and Filipino guests, is an impressive balancing act of culinary dexterity.

Mesclun’s first branch opened in 2012 at the Linden Suites.

But as much as I love the food there, hurdling the traffic of Ortigas Center to get to the hotel always posed a massive logistical challenge. Which is why I rejoiced when I found out that Mesclun’s second branch was going to open in Bonifacio Global City. At last I could have my Sisig Spaghetti as often as I wanted.

“Sisig”, you say? How could that possibly be French? Well, let this Cabalen proudly declare that the Capampangans are the Frenchmen of the Philippines. “Nose to Tail” eating is something both have in common, and both have an unshakeable reputation as the best cooks in their respective parts of the world. It really is a matter of culinary sensibility and ability. And Mesclun’s bestselling pasta is proof positive that techniques, ingredients, and tastes

02

HEALTHY OPTIONS

Sarangani Bay Apahap (Local Seabass) Three-Mushroom Spinach Canneloni Portobello Mushroom Duxelles Four Cheese Pizza Spinach and Gorgonzola Pizza Mushroom and Swiss Flammekeuche

TIP Legends are present next to the dish names for chef’s recommendation and healthy items

PRICE RANGES 03 from places as far apart and as diverse as Paris and Pampanga can combine seamlessly in a stunning plate of authentic grilled flavors in a deliriously creamy sauce.

But Chef Katrina, as innovative as she is, always keeps one eye firmly focused on the classics from France. And what could possibly be more French than Foie Gras? In Mesclun, slices—nay, slabs—of pan-seared duck liver are lined up in a freshly-baked baguette, with a slather of raspberry and port wine reduction to manage and complement all the decadence.

Uric acid be damned, n’est-ce pas?

This cozy bistro probably is the best introduction to French Cuisine; there’s nothing on the menu that’s too oppressively fancy, and the prices on the menu are surprisingly friendly.

Which is why it’s also a perfect for a first date rendezvous—the romance of France and the passion of the Philippines—in one heady mix.

01 Sourdough four cheese 02 Foie gras baguette 03 Sisig spaghetti

Pastas — P245 (Sisig Spaghetti) to P545 (Three-Mushroom and Spinach Canneloni) Mains — P325 (Beer Battered Fish and Chips) to P1990 (Grilled U.S. Prime Rib Eye) Sandwiches — P295 (Brioche Croque Monsieur) to P1395 (Foie Gras Baguette Sandwich) Appetizers — P295 (Yakuza Chicken) to P945 (Charcuterie and Cheese Platter) Flammekeuche and Sourdough Pizzas — P295 (Bacon Flammekeuche and Anchoivies Pizza) to P345 (Speck and Margherita di Buffala) Soups — P 225 (Cream of Mushroom) to P275 (French Onion Soup) Salads — P245 (Mesclun Salad) to P455 (Goat Cheese Salad) Red Wine — P1345 (Paperwood Groove, 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon) to P5450 (Chateau Siran 2006, Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot) Cocktails — P180 (Dry Martini) to P240 (Mango Mojito) G/F Serendra Place, Bonifacio Global City Taguig. Call (02) 954 2100 MesclunPH

16 LET’S EAT