Let's Eat January Issue

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LET'S EAT — January 2018

J ANU A RY 201 8

ISSUE NO. 57

W H AT ' S IN S ID E

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POISON

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LET'S EAT FAVORITES

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MADE NICE

LET'S EAT — January 2018

L E T ’ S E AT

ON BIASE S

SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ

ON T H E COV E R

Editor

PATRICK DIOKNO Art Director

GABBY CANTERO Photographer

LUCKY LEOPARTE Photographer’s Assistant

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ias!!!”: often in all upper case letters, that word was one of the most improbable and most overused comments in Facebook posts this past year. Grammatical considerations aside, it’s an indication of how social media has given everyone a voice, and unfortunately, in some cases, a bully pulpit. Most of the time, however, at least in our good vibes world of food and drinks, biases are actually a very good thing: a democratic vote if you will, that helps us all determine which restaurants to prioritize and who to patronize among the new food entrepreneurs. It’s all about personal preferences, true, but often, a consensus can be reached.

This special New Year’s issue is all about that. What we agree are our favorites, the best of the year just ended.

You may or may not be familiar with our choices, but we guarantee that you’ll most likely love them as much as we do.

We look forward, and are giddy, with what we’ll be sharing with you in 2018.

Let’s Eat!!!

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LUCIEN DY TIOCO Executive Vice President

ANNALYN DELGADO Editorial Assistant

Let’s Eat is published by The Philippine Star 202 Roberto Oca St., Port Area, Manila For inquiries, call 5277901 local 132 or email letseat062013@gmail.com Facebook: facebook.com/LetsEatPhilStar Instagram: letseatph White Chocolate caramelized chocolate with a calamansi glaze and edible flowers at Made Nice Supper Club Photo by GABBY CANTERO

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LET'S EAT — January 2018

poison coffee & doughnuts WORDS BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ

PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

Our favorite dessert destination of 2017

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LET'S EAT — January 2018

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1 Boston Cream 2 Freshly Baked Doughnuts 3 Dan Matutina 4 Poison Interiors

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LET'S EAT — January 2018

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an Matutina’s love for doughnuts can only be rivaled by Homer Simpson.

Now who’s Dan Matutina, you may ask. Unless you’re immersed in the fields of digital art and brand development, Dan’s name may not be as familiar as Homer’s, but in the fast-growing global industry of animation and graphic design, he’s one of the most highly-respected and in-demand Filipinos. He’s done artwork for Google, the Washington Post, Fortune,

the Wall Street Journal, Havaianas, Coke, Heineken, and most apt, the campaign for the launch of Pinterest in the Philippines.

He’s brilliant. And he positively beams when he talks about his passion for doughnuts.

He impressed me right off the bat when we found common ground in our love for San Francisco’s Dynamo Donuts & Coffee. I was actually instantly reminded of my Bay Area favorite when I saw Poison’s line-up, and Dan proceeded to enthuse about his favorites there, as well as his top tire-shaped preferences in New York and London. We reminisced about the Filipinos’ almost salacious passion for doughnuts/donuts, however they’re spelled. Dan’s from Leyte, so he closely observed how every new doughnut brand eclipsed the previous one in popularity, as evidenced by the hand carried dozens for “pasalubongs” in flights to Tacloban: from Dunkin’ to GoNuts to Krispy Kreme to J.Co and in the future, perhaps, Poison?

Why not? “Doughnuts so good, they’re deadly” is an irresistible pitch. And indeed, they are. I consider myself a connoisseur, and Poison’s definitely are killer. No surprise there, because Dan found the perfect conspirators in developing his dream doughnut shop: Kristine Lotilla and Miko Aspiras, the pair behind the #1 cookie store in the country, Scout’s Honor,

Poison Doughnuts is located at The Alley, Karrivin Plaza, Chino Roces Ave., Extension, Makati City

and the progressive French-Japanese pastries of Le Petit Soufflé. Together, this new trio bounced idea after genius idea off each other, until they were satisfied with their initial line up of 7 variants, each bursting with flavor, and overflowing with creativity.

The common sugar-sprinkled doughnut is elevated into an exotic creation, dusted with Garam Masala, the spice mixture from India. Their egg custard doughnut is filled with a luscious Brazo de Mercedes cream. The blueberry doughnut? Stuffed with tart lemon curd and a jam of with whole blueberries.

It’s funny though. There are seven variants, all unique and all exceptional, but the Poison take-home boxes are only made for six. It seems that Dan, Kristine, and Miko are also adept at sales strategies.

Oh, and the coffee is pretty damn good too. There’s a micro-creamy Flat White of course, made from Yardstick beans, using top-of-the-line La Marzocco espresso machines from Italy. The whole vibe is dramatic and almost, well, dangerous.

The mood is all dark and purple and neon and the late great rock star Prince would have loved it here. Doughnuts and Art. Doughnuts as Art. It’s my kind of poison.

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LET'S EAT — January 2018

Let’s Eat: Our 2 FAVORITE NEW FILIPINO RESTAURANT Palm Grill While the name of the restaurant evokes a tropical paradise, the menu is actually a culinary tour of Southern Mindanao. Miggy Moreno, born and raised in the region, is determined to introduce the cuisine of his childhood to Metro Manila, and he’s succeeding.

His take on the Tausug’s “Piyanggang”, a.k.a. “Green Chicken” is worth the drive to Tomas Morato, and for dessert, don’t miss his version of Zamboanga’s beloved “Knickerbocker”, a halo-halo concoction made with the freshest fruits.

FAVORITE CHEF Myke “Tatung” Sarthou

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n January, he was the one and only Filipino invited to speak before the world’s best in Spain’s Madrid Fusion. He not only gave an impressive presentation about Mindanao’s pre-Hispanic cuisine, he wowed his fellow chefs during two all-seats-taken dinners, where he served lumpia and sisig. Mid-year, he published his second cookbook, “Rice”, about all things “kanin” and “kakanin”, and began his regular TV stints in Umagang Kay Ganda.

This December, he’s opening two restaurants: the first, “Juan Mi” in Greenhills, a Fil-Vietnamese concept collaboration with Chef Robby Goco, and “Layag”, a seaside grill and kinilaw bar in La Union.

And in early 2018, he’s releasing his third book, “Diskarte” written entirely in Pilipino, dedicated to Pinoy home cooks all over the world. For all this and more, and for being our impassioned, tireless ambassador of Philippine Cuisine, Chef Tatung is Let’s Eat’s Chef of the Year.

FAVORITE NEW FOREIGN FRANCHISE Mighty Quinn’s

I dislike using the trite term “melt in your mouth”, but I have no choice: Mighty Quinn’s smoked masterpieces really warrant its use.

And even if I hate the traffic and crowds in that part of our metropolis, I’d readily brave going to Megamall just to get another bite of the bark: the crisp, charred, seasoned savory Abe’s surface of meat that this joint from New York Chicken has perfected in its barbeques.

Supreme

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FAVORITE NEW INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT Souv

The younger sibling of Cyma has the same Grecian DNA, but with a cutting-edge culinary outlook, a more millennial disposition, and a brighter, brand new and even friendlier menu. Chef Robby Goco, who almost single-handedly introduced the dishes of Greece to our palates, tickles us some more with his next generation Greek restaurant that’s drawing crowds to BGC’s Net Park.

FAVORITE COMEBACK Charlie’s Pritchon

I recall when Charlie’s Pritchon was launched fifteen years ago; it was the hottest must-have during every party in the early 2000s, way before the age of social media. Not too long after, the concept was appropriated by many others, and the original was overwhelmed. Charlie is re-introducing the ‘Pritchon’ to a new generation of lechon lovers. It’s good to have it back. The One True Pritchon. Accept no substitutes.

LET'S EAT — January 2018

2017 Favorites FAVORITE NEW PIZZA Crosta Pizzeria at The Social

Crosta’s sourdough pizza crust is, in a very literal sense, alive; thanks to the ever fermenting yeast that gives the bread its unique flavor and crusty, bubbly, and chewy texture. The distinct tang of the sourdough is present and accounted for in every pizza, complemented by the fresh basil, homemade fennel sausages, pancetta, and the other premium toppings that make this our favorite pizza of 2017.

FAVORITE NEW BURGER Boutique Burger Kitchen at The Fort Strip

Chef Carlo Miguel’s simply amazing bacon and cheddar burger will instantly vault into your Top 5. World Class, and yes, I’ll do a hot take and say it’s at par with Five Guys and In-N-Out. It’s difficult to eat BBK’s burgers, embraced by pillowy Hokkaido milk buns, slowly; you’ll want to devour them like a beast.

FAVORITE NEW FRIED CHICKEN 210 Degrees Kitchen + Drinkery

Our favorite new fried chicken of the year can be found is in a bistro in the BGC; it’s cooked every evening by renowned French Chef William Mahi, and it tastes like the best version ever of your lola’s old school, no frills recipe.

Classic, lightly salted, and with a perfect crunch. Best of all, it’s all thighs only!

FAVORITE NEW SNACK Nachos a la Bomba from La Carnita Modern Mexican Cantina

When a video of a new dish becomes viral worldwide, with millions of hits from Insider to Lad Bible, and over 2M in the Philippine Star website alone, you know you’ve got a massive hit. Aiza Mesina, a first-timer in the industry, came up with an instant classic with her “Flying Carpet of Cheese”, available at her outlets in The Food Hive on Visayas Ave. and at the Regis Center across the Ateneo on Katipunan.

FAVORITE NEW DESSERT Tochi Cookies from Ikomai

James Antolin, one of the Philippines’ premiere pastry chefs, ever the trailblazer, somehow made “Milk & Cookies” one of the bestselling items in his very popular new Japanese restaurant, Ikomai in Salcedo Village. His Espresso Walnut cookies are sublime creations, and by far, the best new cookies of 2017.

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LET'S EAT — January 2018

O T O

WORDS BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ

PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

Our Favorite Bar of 2017

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LET'S EAT — January 2018

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e went there for everything we needed. We went there when thirsty, of course, and when hungry, and when dead tired. We went there when happy, to celebrate, and when sad, to sulk. We went there when looking for love, or sex, or trouble, or for someone who had gone missing, because sooner or later everyone turned up there. Most of all we went there when we needed to be found.”

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That’s my favorite quote from one of my favorite books, J.R. Moehringer’s “The Tender Bar”. I revisit its pages often, and I don’t have to stay too long. Just for a shot, if you will. A memorable passage, something to take the edge of a long day; I take comfort in the familiar, and I smile, close the book, and walk away.

Come to think of it, that’s really how I like my bars too. For everything I need, when I need it: booze, food, women – and not necessarily in that order. I don’t have to stay too long; just long enough to soothe my mood. And in the case of my new favorite, not-so-tender bar, OTO? There’s one thing more: music. Because music and alcohol go hand in hand together; drinking is never complete without a soundtrack, and the songs will always resonate more with a drink in hand. With company or alone, that I know is true. It’s fitting that in Japanese, “Oto” translates to “Sound”.

It’s actually a “listening room” disguised as a bar, or vice versa: depending on

1 ENRIQUEZ tablea infused spiced rum, sweet vermouth, orange bitters 2 Teriyaki Glazed Kushiyaki 3 Charsiu Pasta 4 David Ong 5 #RELIGIONBLACK rum, lime, black sesame syrup, shiso 6 OTO Interiors

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LET'S EAT — January 2018

the time of day or night. All the bells and whistles – two high-end turntables, tube amplifiers, gigantic speakers, and an outstanding selection of vinyl representative of all eras: from Fleetwood Mac’s “Rumors” to Air’s “Moon Safari” (think Daft Punk, but sexier) to the Foo Fighters’ “Greatest” to American Jazz Standards to the newest Hip Hop. Hundreds of what Titos and Titas call “LPs”, now suddenly adored again by Millennials. Time spent in OTO is time well spent; on quiet afternoons there -- the best time to seriously enjoy a drink, in my opinion – I can select my songs, and create a personal “mix tape”, and I transform into John Cusack in “High Fidelity.”

The pretty ladies at the bar indulge me, Kate and Coleen. Both badass bartenders, who expertly make my favorite cocktail, the “Enriquez”. I tell everyone it’s named after me, and it can very well be, because spiced rum and tablea chocolates are in the mix, but it’s actually named after the street in the Poblacion where the bar stands. Cocktail service, by the way, begins at 6pm, but it is open for food and coffee from 10am onwards. Beers and wine are

available for delightful afternoon tipples, and in the gloaming, once the sun sets, you may bump into the mastermind behind OTO, David Ong. He’s also the man behind The Curator and the EDSA Beverage Design Studio, so you know you’re in very good hands with your cocktails and caffeine. I’ll leave it at that, suffice to say, most of the legends that surround David take place in the wee small hours of the morning, when the music played gets louder, and the drinks, much stronger.

I know you’ll probably see me there one of these days. And if you do, let’s share a drink or two. I know we will. Because sooner or later, everyone turns up in OTO.

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OTO is located at 5880 Enriquez Street, Barangay Poblacion, Makati City

LET'S EAT — January 2018

Made

Nice

WORDS BY SPANKY HIZON ENRQUEZ

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PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

Supper

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Our Favorite Restaurant of 2017 13

LET'S EAT — January 2018

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t should be about good food, period.

First and foremost, last and certainly not the least. That’s what defines a restaurant, that’s what makes it successful.

You can imagine what my email inbox is like, more so my social media feeds. All are inundated with the so-called latest and greatest about all everything to do with food. As a writer, and as pioneering blogger, that’s to be expected. A decade on into my shared obsession with culinary culture, I’ve become somewhat blasé, sometimes outright cynical about all the press and praise floating around out there.

Maybe that’s why it took me so long to

finally venture into Made Nice. Admittedly, the initial publicity the restaurant received became, if I’m being completely honest, quite cloying. It was all “Scandinavian this” and “New York that”, and that was somewhat annoying. I really wanted to go early on, but I also wanted to avoid the herds of “foodies” oooh-ing and ahhhing, missing the forest for the trees. I also believe that the ultra-hip and insidersounding reviews could have turned off some people, who, like me, simply go for the food, not necessarily for all the accouterments of ambiance.

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to let the young group of chefs settle in, and I was greatly rewarded for it. Made Nice, I was pleased to discover, and I’m more than pleased to announce, can now rightfully claim a spot next to Hey Handsome and Toyo Eatery as among the best new dining destinations to open in the past couple of years. This very modern restaurant, located in one of the oldest buildings in the Makati CBD, now has a real rhythm about it, a flow of food and service unencumbered by the pressures of publicity. It now has a regular clientele, patrons who keep on coming back, for the simple pleasures of enjoying a meal in a cool and cozy upscale establishment.

The excellence of the dishes are unquestionable, and the presentation, the plating, as gorgeous as any I’ve seen in Netflix’s highly-rated “Chef ’s Table”. A case can be made for Made Nice to be featured in that series; I wouldn’t miss it. The stories are compelling. There’s a sweet love story between two of the chefs, Jack and Gabbi; a Clooney-Pitt-Damon-esque bromance among Aaron, Wren, and Toby. And that young man making the pasta?

Made Nice Supper Club is located at G/F Planters Products Inc. Building, 109 Esteban St., Legaspi Village, Makati City

LET'S EAT — January 2018

1 Octopus: squid ink, chili, tonnato sauce 2 Bolognese: fresh tagliolini, USDA beef, Gruyère and Emmenthal 3 Lamb: mozarella sphere, kamote puree, frog egg eggplant 4 Made Nice Entrance 5 Milk Chocolate dense chocolate cake, malt ice cream, dulce de leche 6 The Made Nice Team Aaron Cabagay, Toby Panlilio.

Wren Go, Gabbi Flores, Jack Flores, and Raul Forés

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That’s Raul. His mom is Mamou herself, and his aunt? Asia’s Best Female Chef. So yes, expectations are sky high for this Breakfast Club cast of young culinarians.

The good news is, they’re living up to the hype and maturing into their individual roles. It can be difficult, true.

But surely, and not-so-slowly, the Made Nice partners are growing up. There are tremendous challenges – there seems to be a new restaurant du jour opening up every week, competing for the core of diners who regularly eat out, not to mention the attendant irritants of parking along Esteban St. -- but with a little determination, and a lot of passion, those can be solved and surpassed.

Because here’s the deal with Made Nice: it’s a pretty special restaurant, that’s worth going back to, again and again. Why? The simplest of recipes for success: they serve really good food. And quite nicely too.

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L E T ' S E AT Y OUR GUIDE TO THE C I TY’S B ES T FOOD S P OT S EVERY FOURTH S U NDA Y OF THE M ON T H AVAILABLE NOW ON