Let's eat july issue

L E T ' S E AT JULY 2014 ISSUE NO. 14

VA S K • S ILK R OAD • TH E BOWER Y • TI PPLE & SLAW • THE CAKE CL U B

JULY 201 4

WHAT'S INSIDE

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THE BOWERY

SILK ROAD

VASK

THE CAKE CLUB

TIPPLE & SLAW

ISSUE NO. 14

L E T ' S E AT E DITOR 'S NOTE Coming off from our first year, we head on back to the place we started off in our first issue, Bonifacio Global City, the metro’s prime piece of real estate where the buzziest restaurants usually open. This month’s roster of restaurants have all gained their fair shape of superlatives, from being crowned as the city’s best restaurant to having the best mac and cheese in the city.

Of course, you cannot talk about Vask without the distinguished background of Chef Chele Gonzalez and his apprenticeship with Ferran Adria. But while it might just be a mere act of namedropping, Chef Chele has proved his own mettle, proven by the immense respect and adoration given to him and his food by Manila’s most fickle gourmands. The same can be said of Chef Cecille Chang of Silk Road, whose command over Thai food is undisputed. Her sharp focus on the cuisine is present on Silk Road’s refined menu. Dining there is a delightful experience for everyone who’s been smitten by the flavors of Siam.

And lastly, though it’s not an achievement we lightly award to anyone, the Let’s Eat team has finally encountered the best Mac and Cheese in town in The Bowery. Description can act as a substitute for its lingering memory but it’s really better if you head on to the restaurant as soon as you can.

FERNANDO MIGUEL BELMONTE Publisher

ON T H E COV E R

DON JAUCIAN Managing Editor

THYSZ ESTRADA Editorial Associate

PATRICK DIOKNO Art Director

SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ Writer

GABBY CANTERO Photographer

CRU CAMARA & RALPH HILARIO Photographer’s Assistants

LUCIEN DY TIOCO Head of Sales & Marketing

ANNALYN DELGADO Editorial Assistant Golden Letter Publishing, 1497 E. Rodriguez Ave., Quezon City For inquiries, call 5277901 local 132 or email letseat062013@gmail.com Facebook: facebook.com/LetsEatPhilStar Instagram: lets_eat_magazine

Mieng Kham from Silk Road Photo by GABBY CANTERO

LET'S EAT — July 2014

MEAN STREETS

BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

The best mac and cheese in the metro? Head on to The Bowery, the third New-York themed restaurant from the group that brought us L.E.S. Bagels and Nolita

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LET'S EAT — July 2014

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brief history lesson about the Bowery: in the late 1800s, it used to be one of the toughest districts of Manhattan, and a gang called “The Bowery Boys” was so notorious they were depicted in Martin Scorsese’s award-winning film, Gangs of New York. Decades after the end of World War II, all the way up to the 1970s, this district had an unflattering reputation as the city’s “skid row”, the home of the homeless, the axis of alcoholics.

These days, however, thanks to gentrification and revival efforts from its citizens and the city government, it’s more flatteringly famous as the American birthplace of punk rock, thanks to the legendary club CBGB, and interestingly, the Bowery is now the center of specialized stores that cater to the restaurant industry. By coincidence or perhaps by design, a brand new restaurant, The Bowery, is set to become Manila’s new center for New York’s comfort food.

These days, the term “comfort food” is considered overused and overwrought by several food enthusiasts. Too many restaurateurs have come up with uncomfortably mediocre and unnecessarily complicated renditions of the trend— benedict that, bacon this—so much so

that many diners have become wary of the words. As a loyal fan of that easyto-love and simple sustenance cuisine that I consider as “breakfast all day or hangover specials”, I’m very grateful to the youthful gang—okay, group— behind the new restaurant right by Bonifacio Global City’s Burgos Circle; for like the Statue of Liberty, it has become a beacon to every person who seeks true comfort in real food.

The same group is behind other Big Apple inspired restaurants: Podium’s Borough (where I go for a that most comforting of combinations, Mom’s Milk and Cookies); Little Italy-style pizzas at Nolita at Bonifacio High Street; and what’s been lauded as the go-to bakery for the best bagels in Metro Manila, L.E.S. Bagels up in McKinley Hill. Chef Cuit Kaufman is the mastermind of the menus behind all these establishments that pay homage to his native New York. A few years ago, the graduate of SoHo’s French Culinary Institute came to Manila to party, and by his own admission, the party never ended.

Thanks to him and his partners, thousands of happy Filipino food lovers are partying on. And with Bowery’s recent opening, the party’s gotten even bigger and better.

The word’s out on what’s arguably

T H E W O R D ’ S O U T O N W H A T ’ S A R G U A B LY THE BEST MAC AND CHEESE IN THE COUNTRY. THE PLEASURE I DERIVED FROM THIS DISH WAS ALMOST A S S E R T I V E LY S E X U A L I N N A T U R E .

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LET'S EAT — July 2014 1 Lobster Shrimp Roll 2 Braised Short Rib Grilled Cheese 3 The Bowery’s interiors 4 Lobster Shrimp Truffle Mac and Cheese 5 Baked Camembert

RE CO M M E N D E D D I S HE S Baked Camembert, Braised Short Rib Grilled Cheese, Lobster Shrimp, Truffle Mac and Cheese, Bowery Steak, Death by Chocolate Cake

the best mac and cheese in the country.

Bowery’s take on the classic has a blend of cream cheese and mozzarella, spiked with crème fraîche, and into the al dente mix goes a generous, gorgeous sprinkling of chunks of fresh lobster. Yes, lobster.

The pleasure I derived from this dish was almost assertively sexual in nature— seduction in a bowl.

Chef Cuit is also famous for his baking and breads. Among them, the brioche, baked in-house daily, which is used for Bowery’s bestselling lobster and shrimp roll, a po’ boy stuffed with those wonderful crustaceans, avocados, arugula, and for even more brightness, the whole showered with lemon aioli.

For dessert, Death by Chocolate takes the cake. Composed of seven components: fudge brownie, chocolate ganache, mocha meringue, dark chocolate mousse, chocolate truffle cake, chocolate buttercream frosting, and a rich chocolate fudge crumble. You can’t say you’ve truly lived until you’ve taken a bite of this epic masterpiece of the dark chocolate arts.

Simply great food, or great simple food.

Call it what you will. Bowery’s both. It’ll put you in a New York state of mind. All that’s really missing is Billy Joel on the piano, crooning by the corner. A breezy balcony overlooking the quiet urban neighborhood.

The interiors, all dark wood and faded brick, give the new restaurant a cozy livedin feel. Completely comfortable. And that’s exactly what a restaurant that banners comfort food is supposed to do. Coming to The Bowery is like coming home.

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TIPS 1. The bar upstairs features live music from local DJs on weekends, perfect for upbeat dinner and drinks. Give in to the temptation and have a glass of the sangria that features prominently on the bar.

2. Chef Cuit is also well-known for his pastry creations and you cannot miss his version of Death By Chocolate cake. Ask for his famous bagels that you can crossorder by request from their sister bagel joint L.E.S.

P RI CE RAN G E STARTERS P180 (Raw Oysters in a HalfShell) to P1200 (Mac & Cheese) SALADS P280 (Moc’s Sweet Chile Beaner) to P390 (Manhattan Greek) ENTREES P480 (Roasted Rosemary Chicken) to P2400 (Fish of the Day) ALL DAY BREAKFAST P160 (2 Eggs, Any Style) to P320 (Buttermilk Waffles) PASTA P380 (Linguini with Mussels and Clams) to P520 (Salmon Mascarpone Bow Ties) BURGERS AND SANDWICHES P250 (Chicken Kebab Pita) to P860 (Bowery Burger) The Bowery NYC Comfort Food F151 Forbeswood Heights, Rizal Drive cor. Burgos Circle, Bonifacio Global City Taguig 0936 929 6073

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LET'S EAT — July 2014

TWO FOR THE ROAD

BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

The inimitable Cecille Chang, hailed as the Queen of Thai Cuisine in Manila, and the enchanting journey to Silk Road 01

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LET'S EAT — July 2014

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ith great fondness, I still look back at that restaurant in Greenbelt Park. It was the first Thai restaurant that resonated with me, the place where I met, and fell in love with Tom Yum soup. To this day, I still can taste its tang and picture its presentation. I enjoyed many memorable meals there, and I still miss it. It’s long gone now, replaced by the gleaming structure that’s Greenbelt 5. But back in the 1990s, it was among the hottest restaurants in what was then, arguably, the best strip of dining destinations in the city. Among them, the original New Orleans, the venerable La Tasca, the beguiling Beverly Hills Deli, the dark and cozy San Mig on the lower ground level, and a block away, the esteemed Prince of Wales. Restaurants with so much intrinsic character, so unlike many of the new ones that have been popping up lately, so similar and not fab at all, what with their pre-fab interiors and menus.

Which is why I’m very pleased that my current favorite Thai restaurant is overflowing with the owner’s obvious affection for the cuisine, much like my favorite from two decades ago. Chef Cecille Chang’s cuisine is chock-full of character, reflective of her own inimitable style. She’s known as the “Chef in Stilettos”, and a conversation

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1 Thai Ravioli 2 Mieng Kham 3 Mango Sticky Rice 4 Silk Nest 5 Silk Road’s interiors

about her cooking inevitably turns into a discourse that’s every bit as spicy as her specials. Cecille is one of those people who turns every head when she walks into a room.

Statuesque and seriously sexy, she’s certainly a diva, but one who’s not afraid to roll up her designer sleeves when she’s in her kitchen, cutting, chopping, and prepping the food.

Ensuring that every diner experiences enchantment when taking a culinary journey along her Silk Road.

Cecille has spent time in Thailand for years, endlessly learning and assiduously assimilating the nation’s cuisine, from Old Siam to Modern Bangkok. Travelling to every town in every province, tasting everything and missing nothing. And everything she’s imbibed, she’s infused into the restaurants she’s been involved with, among them, the very popular Simply Thai and Thai Bistro, and now, her latest, the one she considers to be her “best version ever” of a decade’s worth of the divine dishes she’s designed and developed.

Silk Road’s Siamese pork ribs are spectacular. This is my number one favorite new pork dish of the year.

Served on a portable grill, a miniature brazier with bright orange charcoal within, making the succulent ribs, glazed with cinnamon and caramel, sizzle and smoke. The aromas, hypnotic and exotic. Best with an ice cold beer or three. Singha from Thailand, nothing less.

The dish that captivates me most is Mieng Kham, best described as an edible betel nut chew, just like your lola’s nganga, but with peanuts, shallots, chili, shrimp, garlic, lime, & ginger. It’s basically a pocket salad, bite sized, perfect for popping into one’s mouth. Sweet, savory and nutty

LET'S EAT — July 2014

SILK ROAD’S SIAMESE PORK RIBS ARE SPECTACULAR. THIS IS MY NUMBER ONE FAVORITE NEW PORK DISH OF THE YEAR.

RE CO M M E N D E D D I S HE S Mieng Kham, Thai RaviolI, Pad Thai, Siamese Pork Ribs, Silk Nest

TIPS 1. Aside from their unique presentation, the food here tends to get quirky names like Son-In-Law Eggs, named after a seething mother-in-law’s threat to a misbehaving son-in-law.

2. Planning on throwing a Thai-themed party? The roomy upstairs loft can be reserved for private functions. Call ahead to reserve.

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and citrusy, all at once, a complex and charming blend of flavors and textures. Trust me, you can’t have just one.

And the happiest ending to every meal here? Silk Road’s homemade durian ice cream. No further need to elucidate. Simply sublime. It’s the best I’ve ever had. Fresh, fruity, flirty, and fun, exactly like Chef Cecille.

So what then is the essential secret behind Silk Road’s success? What differentiates it from the rest of the many Thai dining options around?

The Chef, of course. And she is quick to point out a specific aspect: her talent. In particular, quote unquote, her talented tongue. That which allows her palate to elevate and plate Thai food that’s so much more special. Silk Road should come with a warning, as it really should be Rated R: R for the Radiant Thai Cuisine it offers, and Rated R for the Ravishing Chef in the kitchen.

*selected SOUP P300 (Ton Kha Gai) to P340 (Tom Yum Talay) SALADS P275 (Som Tam) to P585 (Foie Gras Makhan) STARTERS P195 (Mieng Kham) to P360 (Soft Shell Crab Roll) CURRIES P120 (Lamb Shank Massaman) to P520 (Roasted Duck Curry) FRIED, STIR FRIES, ETC. P110 (Whole Seabass Deep Fried) to P980 (US RibEye Steak) NOODLES P295 (Glass Noodles) to P340 (Pad Thai) Silk Road 4th Ave. corner 31st street. Fort Bonifacio, Global City. 1634 Taguig (02) 824 1678 silkroadthaibistro

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LET'S EAT — July 2014

TOUR DE BASQUE

BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

Vask’s Chef Chele Gonzalez reminds us what truly makes a fine meal

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uch has been written about Vask ever since it opened its doors to the public in early 2013. It’s more than lived up to its promise. A world class restaurant that just might leave the most lasting impression of Philippine cuisine in the global culinary landscape. Months before its official launch, the local rumor mill already reverberated with the news that a chef who actually worked in one of the greatest restaurants that ever existed would be at the helm of Vask.

Perched on a cliff in Catalonia in Spain, the 3-Michelin starred elBulli was Chef Ferran Adria’s paean to molecular gastronomy, and is widely considered to be the most influential restaurant, worldwide, in the past quarter century. In 2008, Chele Gonzalez, a young gentleman from Santader in the Cantabria region, underwent the intense, almost military discipline of tutelage from his great compatriot. Only the best of the best are accepted into elBulli, and they depart even better after an apprenticeship with Adria. And so it was with Chef Chele. Five years later, he would bring his incomparable wealth of experience to Vask Modern Tapas and Gastronomic Cuisine in Bonifacio Global City.

A meal shared with Chef Chele is not just an adventure, a gourmet’s journey experiencing the most cutting-

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LET'S EAT — July 2014

RECOMMENDED DISHES Foie Gras on Mango Toast, Tomate Relleno, Dorada con Ragout de Ibericos, Galleta de Rabo, Tarta de Calamansi Deconstruida

TIPS 1. While the food at VASK is akin to art, the restaurant itself houses many contemporary art pieces. Part of the restaurant is VASK Gallery, a highly curated art/dining space that can seat just up to 20 people and features the more innovative dishes from Chef J Luis Gonzales and designed by Carlo Calma.

2. The Outdoor Lounge (featuring a giant spoon and fork see-saw) frequently features live performances from local musicians. Check their Facbook page or ask them over Twitter @vaskmanila for schedules.

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Pintxos in particular, more commonly known as tapas.

Vask has an ever-changing everexpanding menu of Pintxos, every single one elaborate. Flavors, aromas, colors, and textures, all intermingling, each component complimenting every other one exquisitely. I adore the chef ’s deservedly famous Foie Gras Mousse on Mango Toast, a delicate puff of the foie balanced on a divinely sweet caramelized bite of the fruit. I’d

1 Tarta de Calamansi Deconstruida 2 Dorada con Ragout de Ibericos 3 Crispy Tuna in Kataïfi Pasta with Foie Gras

love to eat a dozen pieces, but Chele reminds me that in the true Basque tradition, his creations are meant to be savored, not devoured. Very light, very healthy, and very clean flavors are his hallmarks. A meal, the chef says, doesn’t necessarily have to leave diners feeling too full. And a truly fine meal, he continues, makes one feel right, not tight.

P RI CE RAN G E Chele Gonzalez has a grand vision for the cuisine of what’s become his second home. He has a passion and a mission to raise the bar of our traditional favorites, and to truly elevate them, by applying the exacting methods and attention to care that defines authentic gastronomy. For the past few months, he’s been travelling across the archipelago, exploring and experimenting, discovering and delighting in our native produce.

And he’s ready to prove that our Filipino food can rise to the highest levels of fine dining. Chef Chele’s “Kulinarya” will be launched at Vask this last weekend of July. I can’t wait to rediscover our local cuisine through his interpretations. The famed elBulli techniques used on our local resources from Bicol, Negros, and Cagayan de Oro? I am already in awe.

MODERN MENU *selected MAIN COURSES P575 (Tuna in Daishi Kombu) to P1250 (Cordero al cous-cous de Menta) STARTERS P290 (Huevos con Tixstorra) to P950 (Bogavante al Ajillo) DESSERTS P295 (Caramel Chocolate Lava) to P320 (Pistachio Cappucino)

Vask Modern Tapas & Gastronomic Cuisine 11th Avenue corner 39th Street, Bonifacio Global City, 1634 Taguig 217 6563 VaskManila

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LET'S EAT — July 2014

E AT L E T ' SE E T S SW

A SLICE OF LIFE

BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

The Diamond Hotel tops its famous ensaymada with The Cake Club’s sweet creations

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he first rule of Cake Club is: you must talk about Cake Club. The Diamond Hotel’s elegant satellite outlet is the sweetest spot on Bonifacio High Street, which means that their five star ensaymada is available here too; but it’s even lusher, almost impossibly so. The new version, dreamily creamy and delicately earthy, is topped with fresh forest mushrooms, and infused with truffle oil. Then there’s the undeniably unique olive oil macaron, sweetly subtle on the palate. And the Diamond’s exclusive small-batch ice creams, available by the scoop or in sundaes. Hence, the first rule of Cake Club. You simply must.

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The Cake Club is located at UGF Bonifacio High Street Central, East Superblock, 7th Ave cor 29th St, Fort Bonifacio, Taguig, (02) 621-3176

' S E AT L E TTREATS

' S E AT L E TTREATS

50 percent discount on food ala carte orders during Sunday dinner

10% off on all Sandwiches

' S E AT L E TTREATS

Free Takhoo Thai-tapioca pearl pudding topped with coconut custard.

L E T ' S E AT X

Coupon is valid from 25 July to 25 August 2014. Only one (01) coupon can be redeemed per transaction. Use with other discount or promotion is not allowed.

Not replaceable when lost and nontransferable to cash. Only the coupon from Let’s Eat print edition will be entertained.

L E T ' S E AT X

Coupon is valid from 25 July to 25 August 2014. Only one (01) coupon can be redeemed per transaction. Use with other discount or promotion is not allowed.

Not replaceable when lost and nontransferable to cash. Only the coupon from Let’s Eat print edition will be entertained.

L E T ' S E AT X

Coupon is valid from 25 July to 25 August 2014. Only one (01) coupon can be redeemed per transaction. Use with other discount or promotion is not allowed.

Not replaceable when lost and nontransferable to cash. Only the coupon from Let’s Eat print edition will be entertained.

LET'S EAT — July 2014

L E T 'SK D R IN

THIRST QUENCHER

BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

Flavors best paired with excellent drinks form the core of Tipple & Slaw Years ago, I found a perfect bar in Georgetown; it had comfort bar chow and comforting cocktails, mood music and movie nights. I’ve finally found its counterpart in our town, Tipple & Slaw. Inspired by Dean and DeLuca, two young chefs, Francis Lim and Janus Naval, set out to establish a venue built around “food for drinking”.

They’ve succeeded. Their aptly named Volcanic Wings erupt with a hot lava of sauce and spice, a perfect pairing for the cooling olive-hued Tipple margarita, which looks and tastes like a dirty martini slushie. The bar’s signature tipple is the Gentleman’s Ketchup, extremely strong and shockingly flavorful, and quite perfect for the ladies too.

Tipple & Slaw is located at 2nd floor, The Forum, 7th Ave. cor. Federacion Drive, Bonifacio Global City 1634 Taguig; (02) 500 0882 15­

Y OU R GUIDE T O T HE C IT Y’S B E S T F OOD SPOTS E VE R Y L AS T FR I DAY O F T H E M ON T H L E T ' S E AT Your Local (G/F Universal LMS Building, 106 Esteban Street, Legaspi Village, Makati). Photographed by Gabby Cantero.