Let's Eat October Issue by Tammy Mendoza

L E T ' S E AT OCTOBER 2014 ISSUE NO. 17

I PP UD O • LULU • CDP • N I K K O' S BAK I N G STUDI O • A ' TODA MADRE

OCTOBER 201 4

WHAT'S INSIDE

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IPPUDO

LULU

CDP

A TODA MADRE

NIKKO'S BAKING STUDIO

ISSUE NO. 17

LET'S EAT — October 2014

L E T ' S E AT E DITOR 'S NOTE Charming. That seems to be the keyword to some of the new restaurants that have been popping up in our neighborhoods lately. While most of them who take their cues in trendy restaurants from New York and Paris, they seem to take a different form once they set foot here. Take CDP for instance, the new restaurant backed by three of Manila’s formidable restaurateurs, Katrina Kuhn-Alcantara, Malou Fores, and Kristine del Gallego-Locsin. It’s quite the opposite of some of the Big Apple-themed joints we’ve seen of late—and that’s a good thing. CDP is more quaint, laidback and is takes its cures from Buvette in New York, which is part wine bar and part neighborhood restaurant. But the global influence is apparent in CDP, informed by their travels around the world, which goes as far to Dominican Republic. LuLu also imbibes this laidback appeal in fine dining, a word that intimidates many for its snobishness. What’s great about LuLu—apart from the food—is that the dining seeps into its sister restaurant, Hooch, just next door, where drinks and good spirits flow into the night. While we’ve thrown trendier places in the mix (just so you can sample what everyone is talking about and if it’s really worth the hype), it’s still nice to dine in places that give you more breathing room to enjoy and relax. Bon appetit!

FERNANDO MIGUEL BELMONTE Publisher

ON T H E COV E R

DON JAUCIAN Managing Editor

THYSZ ESTRADA Editorial Associate

PATRICK DIOKNO Art Director

SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ Writer

GABBY CANTERO Photographer

NICO NUYDA

Photographer’s Assistant

LUCIEN DY TIOCO

Head of Sales & Marketing

ANNALYN DELGADO Editorial Assistant

Golden Letter Publishing, 1497 E. Rodriguez Ave., Quezon City For inquiries, call 5277901 local 132 or email letseat062013@gmail.com Facebook: facebook.com/LetsEatPhilStar Instagram: lets_eat_magazine

Maine Lobster Vongole from CDP Photo by GABBY CANTERO

LET'S EAT — October 2014

THE WIND RISES BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

More than a trendy ramen joint, Ippudo is a rarefied restaurant that showcases its founder’s masterwork

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LET'S EAT — October 2014

hese are the questions: two years into the Ramen Invasion, is the local market already oversaturated with this most Japanese of comfort food? With at least a dozen major players in the space, are Filipinos really so enamored, or even obsessed with ramen in all its forms, that there will always be room for one more competitor? Will ramen follow the classic Filipino “streak through the sky like a comet and come crashing down like an asteroid” food trends of the past (hot pandesal, lechon manok, shawarma stands, sago shakes, etc., etc.)? These are the Answers: No. This is the Proof: Ippudo I figured that a month into its existence, the hoopla would have tapered off, and I could have the luxury of walking straight into the restaurant on the third floor of the Mega Fashion Hall. How wrong I was. A wink and a tip of the hat to SM. From Tim Ho Wan to H&M to Ippudo, I’ve never seen so many patient queues of Pinoys so passionate about their obsessions, be it food or fashion. Such was the case with Ippudo during my initial visit. I arrived at 10a.m., and the first thing I noticed was a long line of metal stools—at least three dozens, possibly more—

stretching through the hallway outside the restaurant. “Forever the optimist!”, I thought to myself. My friends joined me soon after, and we ordered the requisite recommendations. By 10:30a.m., Ippudo was threequarters full. Half an hour later, at eleven o’clock, when most restaurants are just firing up their stoves, Ippudo was fully booked, verging on SRO. And when I walked out a few minutes later, people were already sitting on the stools, eagerly watching each departing diner, smiles widening as they moved one stool up the line. What’s the mystique, the magnetism that draws so many to Ippudo? I’d attribute it to four key elements. First, the marketing genius of John Concepcion. He took a page from his successful Magnum and Yabu Social Media playbooks and applied them to Ippudo. Weeks before it opened, anticipation was already sky-high. Second, a built-in market. Ippudo’s success in Hong Kong, Singapore, Bangkok, Seoul, and New York has made it a very familiar brand to globetrotting Pinoys. Third, Discipine and Dedication. From management to the staff, best exemplified by the “Chourei”, the meeting that starts off every morning in every Ippudo around the world. It’s like a coaches’ huddle crossed

AS IN THE BESTSELLING AKAMARU SHINAJI BOWL, RAMEN LEAVES THE ORDINARY B E H I N D A N D B E C O M E S T R U LY S U B L I M E , E L E G A N T I N I T S S I M P L I C I T Y . 6

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1 Akamaru Shinaji 2 Unagi on Rice in Hot Stone pot 3 Tori Karage 4 Ippudo Pork Bun 5 Curry Cheese Harumaki 6 Shiromaru Motoaji 7 Karaka-Men

RE COMME NDE D DISHE S Akamaru Shinaji, Unagi on Rice in Hot Stone Pot, Curry Cheese Harumaki, Tori Karage, Ippudo Pork Bun

TIPS 1. So far, Ippudo takes no reservations so lining up early is the best thing you can do.

with a military boot camp blended with an evangelist’s zealous sermon. It was a privilege to witness such an inspiring moment, one that makes the whole team strive to perform better every single day. Fourth, the food. It’s good, really good. I refused to share my order of unagi rice: grilled eel with a light brushing of a sweetish teriyaki-like sauce, served atop rice in a stone pot, the grains at the bottom forming a nutty socarrat-like crust. Splendid. The ramen is prepared in the unique style of Ippudo founder Shigemi Kawahara. The noodles are the thinnest I’ve encountered; almost like angel-hair pasta. It makes for better eating, says the Ramen King. The optimal air intake, noodle length and thickness, broth temperature and flavor, and taste and texture of the toppings, all combine for the supreme slurping experience. With a dash of garlic oil, as in the bestselling Akamaru Shinaji bowl. Ramen leaves the ordinary behind and becomes truly sublime, elegant in its simplicity. Ippudo reminds us that life’s most satisfying moments, after all, are derived from the our most ethereal experiences. A deeply hued sunset. A child’s innocent laughter. A humble bowl of perfect ramen.

2. If you’re not satsfied with just having ramen (to make that long wait worth it), there are pairing suggestions on available on the menu. 3. The ramen bowls are usually color coded according to their spiciness levels, with the white bowl being the most tame one.

PRICE RANG E RAMEN P375 (Shiromaru Motoaji) to P390 (Karaka-Men) GYOZA AND BUNS P100 (Pork Bun, Chicken Bun) to P210 (Oroshi Ponzu Gyoza) SALADS P140 (Goma Q) to P210 (Original Salad and Nikumiso Tofu Salad) ALA CARTE P130 (Crispy Corn) to P200 (Tori Karage) RICE P250 (Hakata Meshi) to P490 (Unagi on Rice in Hot Stone)

IPPUDO PHILIPPINES 3/F Mega Fashion Hall, SM Megamall (02) 470 1837 ippudoph

LET'S EAT — October 2014 01

TAKING THE TOWN BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

LuLu merges the unique backgrounds of its two chefs, Tom Hines and Chandra Mercado. The result is nothing short of amazing 8

LET'S EAT — October 2014

his is a tale of two cities, Manila and Cebu; a tale of two chefs, Tom Hines and Chandra Mercado, and a tale of their appetizing kitchen partnership, which as resulted in twice the goodness and satisfaction at their resurrected and revolutionized LuLu. Tom is the globetrotting Englishman who now considers Cebu home. The Queen City of the South is where he first established a name for himself in the Philippines as the Executive Chef of the Marriott. He’s become equally famous in Luzon, where his LuLu restaurant is beloved by gourmands for its unique culinary juxtaposition of fine dining in a laidback setting. Chandra is the brilliant young chef from Cebu who is now based in Manila. She’s Tom’s former trainee, and now, his current business partner. When she was still a high school junior, her family used to frequent the Marriott, where they befriended Tom, who convinced Chandra’s mother to allow her daughter to pursue a career in the restaurant industry. Fast forward ten years, and the Cebuana is now in charge of the day-to-day operations of LuLu. The duo, perfectly in sync, has established the hottest one-stop allin venue in the resurgent restaurant scene in Salcedo Village. From

1 Pulled Pork Pao 2 Caviar Blini with Vodka 3 Lamb Shank 4 Golden Pre-bytes 5 Tequila Lemon Cheesecake

pre-dinner aperitifs in LuLu’s sister establishment Hooch, progressing to one of the most relaxing and unpretentious high-end dining destinations in the city, just a few short steps away. And after dinner, both dining and drinking merge into one seamless and satisfying experience as the party continues. That’s the recipe for success that Tom and Chandra cook up nightly. The pair produces eclectic gourmet food, and classics with a twist: the restaurant’s bestselling ultimate pork chop, perhaps the most massive bone-in hunk of pork in the city, is smoky and tender, glazed with an altogether unexpected indigenous ingredient, achuete. Those abstaining from meat need not worry: the LuLu preparation of the much-loved mahi-mahi is likewise ultimately filling and as substantial. It’s prepared comes with a delicate citrus glaze, and the fabulous fillet of fish, nestled luxuriously on a bed of lemon and pea risotto. But the star that steals the show, more often than not, is the sous vide lamb shank. Painstakingly cooked with precision for 12 hours, the beguiling dish is scented with rosemary and marjoram with bejeweled couscous. It’s a bewitching concoction, a true production highlighting the best of East and West. Traditions colliding head-on with the most meticulous modern cooking methods, with truly spectacular results. LuLu embraces a unique service philosophy: Never Say No. The chefs will bend over backwards to satisfy (within reason, of course) off-menu requests. Dietary restrictions? Vegan? Gluten Free? Lactose Intolerant? No problem, they’ll find a way to satisfy and satiate. Something special, a

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RE COMME NDE D DISHE S

THE STAR THAT STEALS THE SHOW IS THE SOUS VIDE LAMB SHANK. I T I S P A I N S T A K I N G LY COOKED WITH PRECISION FOR 12 HOURS, IS SCENTED WITH ROSEMARY AND MARJORAM WITH BEJEWELED COUSCOUS

Lulu’s Onion Soup, Golden Smoked Fish & Crab Cakes, Seared Tuna Nicoise, Lamb Shank, Ultimate Pork Chop

TIPS 1. The restaurant features an open kitchen where you can watch your orders being prepared by its deft sous chefs. Grab a cocktail, stay by the bar and chat one of them or two and they might just slip you a favorite dish’s secret ingredient. 2. Hooch is conveniently located beside Lulu, its sister restaurant that serves among the most adventurous takes on cocktails in the metro today. You can cross order from both restaurants for interesting food and drink pairings.

PRICE RANG E

surprise for your significant other to make an anniversary unforgettable? Surely and sweetly. Extra effort comes with no extra charge. I’ve been a big fan of LuLu ever since its first incarnation on the Joya Drive in Rockwell. I held my breath when it seemed to disappear for a while, and let out a sigh of relief when it reopened on L.P. Leviste in Makati. I’m quite pleased that Tom and Chandra are back, making their kitchen hum again, and once again composing breathtaking culinary masterpieces. Mentor and protégé, together again, but this time, as equals.

SANDWICHES P280 (Parma Ham & Fontina Cheese) to P350 (Lulu Burger and Club Lulu) PASTA AND RICE P290 (Lulu Pasta) to P550 (Spinach and Artichoke Risotto) LUNCH - MAINS P350 (Granny Smith Apple, San Danielle Ham and Swiss Cheese Panini) to P650 (Wagyu Steak) GREEN CUISINE P290 (Cool Caesar) to P1600 (Barley & Spring Vegetables plus Sea Bass) LuLu G/F 125 V Corporate Center, L.P. Leviste St., Salcedo Village, Makati. (02) 403 4376

lurestaurant

LET'S EAT — October 2014

I T COMES IN THREES BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

What happens when three of the city’s best restaurateurs join forces? Head on to CDP to find out 11

LET'S EAT — October 2014

et’s get one thing absolutely clear: CDP does NOT stand for “Chef de Partie”. Someone wrote about it and everyone else followed suit. And so it went. But let me repeat. That’s erroneous, no matter what all the results in Google would have you believe. In all fairness, if CDP were owned by any other trio of accomplished restaurateurs, that might just be the case. But with Katrina Kuhn-Alcantara, Malou Fores, and Kristine del Gallego-Locsin? CDP might as well be an acronym for “Chefs Do Party!” Quote Unquote. That’s the first point that Katrina Kuhn-Alcantara stressed when I visited her new dining place recently. And speaking of, she’s one of the points in the glamorous triangle that comprises the CDP Partnership. I first met Kat years ago when she had just opened Culière in Serendra that served the heartiest, yet most elegant croque madame sandwiches. Even then, her passion for all things French was apparent, and her passion for sandwiches as well. Not surprisingly, she’s now the lady behind the three Mesclun restaurants, known for their rustic bistro fare with a keen Filipino touch, and the two Chuck’s Delis, very popular as the home of the beautifully overstuffed and oversized slabwiches.

1 Maine Lobser Vongole 2 Japanese Mackerel 3 Duck Confit 4 A selection of CDP cocktails 5 Sancocho 6 Pig’s Ear Fries

CDP MAY BE A SMALL RESTAURANT, AND THAT’S INTRINSIC TO ITS UNDENIABLE CHARM, BUT IT’S B I G O N C H A R A C T E R .

The shortest distance between two points is a straight line, and that’s what connects Kat to Malou Fores. That’s also how they traveled to New York in 2013, to research on the latest restaurant trends, and the ideas they came up with last year— compact delectable plates in compressed dining places, for instance, eventually resulted in the establishment of CDP. Malou, of course, is legendary in the Philippine restaurant scene for her ‘’home kitchen’’ Mamou. Almost a decade into its existence, it’s still as popular as it was in 2007, maybe even more so. The triangle that makes up CDP is completed by Kristine. Her credentials are just as solid: she established the original LU restaurant in Rockwell, which was considered to be the best

LET'S EAT — October 2014

RE COMME NDE D Dishes: Pig’s Ears Fries, Sancocho, Maine Lobster Vongole, Duck Confit, Frito Misto Drinks: Esmeralda, Mimosa, Anjou, Sparkling Lemon, Fruit-infused Gin

TIPS 1. Watch out for the freshest catch of the day and any one of their many daily specials scribbled artfully on a standing menu at the outdoor dining area. Take your pick of debuting dishes that could soon be part of the regular menu too. 2. Crémant, French sparkling wine that’s not quite Champagne, is served here. Though vinified the same way as its far more expensive cousin, crémants are so named because they are produced outside the Champagne region of France.

PRICE RANG E SHARED PLATES P195 (Pig’s Ear Fries) to P1880 (Charcuterie) GREENS P390 (Nicoise Cups) to P460 (Manuka Chevre) BOWLS P250 (Soupe Au Pistou) to P325 (Clam Chowder) HOT PLATES – PASTA P375 (Duck Olio) to P1135 (Maine Lobster Vongole)

restaurant in that area during its time. Together, this triumvirate of very talented and very stunning ladies have opened what I consider to me the coziest date place in Makati. CDP may be a small restaurant, and that’s intrinsic to its undeniable charm, but it’s big on character. From the playful trompe l’oeil sketches on its walls to the glass drawer filled with the finest and most fragrant cheeses, from the hypnotic array of 19th century jars filled with colorful

fruit infused gins to the menus that have the look and feel of missalettes, this is the kind of restaurant that makes you swoon the minute you step in. And fall in love, you will. With the quirky ambiance, the quaint furnishings, that intriguing ceiling, and most of all, you’ll fall for the captivating dishes. Small plates on small tables: it’s a concept that’s unfamiliar. But space, in CDP, like the establishments in the Big Apple that it drew inspiration from, is at a

premium. So think of dining here this way: the plates are indeed small, but they are overflowing, quite literally, with the best possible ingredients. And figuratively, with intense flavors. It’s new, it’s different, it’s almost avant-garde. And I absolutely love it. Ask Kat, Malou, and Kristine what CDP means and you’ll likely get three different replies. And therein lies the true beauty and sheer genius of the restaurant’s concept. CDP will ultimately stand for what it means to you.

HOT PLATES – SEAFOOD P495 (Japanese Mackarel) to P455 (Black Stew) HOT PLATES – MEAT P575 (Sheperd’s Pie) to P1440 (Steak Fries Poutine) CDP R1 Level Lopez Drive, Power Plant Mall, Rockwell, Makati 0917 832 9828 CDPGlobalTable

LET'S EAT — October 2014

L E T 'SK D R IN

A MEXICAN SHOWDOWN BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

The deliciously deadly concoctions of A ‘Toda Madre 14

LET'S EAT — October 2014

equila is the most aggressively sexy shooter worldwide, thanks to the notorious bodyshot: lick, shoot, suck. A’Toda Madre slows down the tempo, but makes the enjoyment of Mexico’s intrinsic spirit no less sensual. The proprietors ensure that their patrons (no pun intended) get an education about Agave, through their line-up of premium

tequilas, the largest collection available locally. Ergo: sip, not shoot. Altered perceptions result, thanks to the most refined and rarest bottles around. The new appreciation doesn’t end with the liquor, however. This bar offers what could be the most authentic Mexican food in the country.

A 'Toda Madre is located at G/F Sunette Tower, Durban St., cor. Makati Avenue, Makati. Contact 0998 999 1521 or 0998 985 5198; visit facebook.com/atodamadretequila

LET'S EAT — October 2014

E AT L E T ' SE E T S SW

SHAKE AND BAKE BY SPANKY HIZON ENRIQUEZ PHOTOS BY GABBY CANTERO

Nikko’s Baking Studio’s confections are as vibrant as its chef

’d call Nikko Buendia a Renaissance Woman. She’s a mother of two, a commercial model, and a driving force behind Operation: Santa, a group of first responders that brings toys and joy to children in disaster-hit areas, such as Tacloban after Yolanda devastated the city a year ago. She’s also one of the most talented and artistic bakers of her generation. Nikko’s Baking Studio is the culmination of her baking dreams. It’s a triptych: part-cooking school, part cafe’, and part bakeshop. It’s a smart combination of savory, sweet, and sumptuous. Truly one of a kind, just like its namesake.

Nikko's Baking Studio is at 514 59-A Paseo De Roxas, Urdaneta Village, Makati. Call (02) 887 1711 or check facebook.com/nikkosbakingstudio

' S E AT L E TTREATS Happy Hour Deal: P799 for a Pitcher of Frozen Margarita (5 Glasses), Nachos, and Taquitos. Good for 4

' S E AT L E TTREATS Free One (1) Pigâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ear Fries for minimum P1000 purchase (single receipt)

L E T ' S E AT X

Coupon is valid from 31 October to 30 November 2014 and for dine-in only. Only one (01) coupon can be redeemed per customer during the valid promo period. Coupon must be presented prior to order. Use with other discount or promotion is not allowed. Not replaceable when lost and nontransferable to cash. Only the coupon from Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eat print edition will be entertained.

L E T ' S E AT X

Coupon is valid from 01 November to 30 November 2014 and for dine-in only. Only one (01) coupon can be redeemed per customer during the valid promo period. Coupon must be presented prior to order. Use with other discount or promotion is not allowed. Not replaceable when lost and nontransferable to cash. Only the coupon from Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eat print edition will be entertained.

REA D L ET’ S E AT ON YOUR P HON E AN D T A B LE T F OR FR E E US I N G T HE BU QO A P P L E T ' S E AT Download BUQO at the Apple App Store and Google Play