My Destination Reykjavik Magazine - Summer 2015 by MD Reykjavik

Summer 2015

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Hello and Welcome to Iceland My Destination Reykjavik, a local expert in the global My Destination Network. We specialise in giving out relevant, in-depth and up-todate advice to travellers such as yourself, on our website and in our magazine - this magazine, the one you’re holding in your hands RIGHT NOW. In this Magazine, you will learn about some of the best places to eat, shop, party, and go sightseeing, as well as how to get there, in addition to some practical tips and fun facts about Reykjavík and its surrounding areas. (For starters, check out the next article: “Where to go, What to do and How to get there” - which aims to give you an overview over what there is and how to choose what’s best for you). This magazine aims to give you an insight into all things Reykjavík and the major highlights of the city; however, it is hard to explain to you the magic of Reykjavík on just 84 leaves of paper. To be properly informed about everything during your stay here in Iceland we highly recommend a visit to our website, www.MyDestination.com/Reykjavik. On the My Destination Reykjavik website you will find absolutely everything you could

possibly want to know about Reykjavík. The greatest thing about the My Destination network and what separates it from other travel sites is that it is filled with tips and reviews from locals who really know what they are talking about. My Destination Reykjavik is there for you whether you want to get to know the history of Iceland, learn about the culture, read about the restaurants you plan on eating at, book your accommodation, rent a car, find out What’s On in Reykjavik, browse through photos or load up on useful information. Basically we have everything you need to get informed and make the best of your trip. My Destination is a global travel resource that is powered by a diverse community of hundreds of local experts. The local experts at My Destination Reykjavik are on the ground and have personally experienced what our destination has to offer. We make sure to produce comprehensive information in the form of travel articles, local tips, guides, reviews, videos and panoramic virtual tours. Let My Destination be your tour guide during your stay in Iceland and you will get more out of your experience than you ever thought was possible.

Reykjavik MyDestination Reykjavik Locally Informed, Globally Inspired. www.mydestination.com/reykjavik

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OVERVIEW:

WHERE TO GO, WHAT TO DO AND HOW TO GET THERE by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson So you’ve landed in Iceland. What now? As you sit there on your tour bus, or in an information centre, enthusiastically leafing through this magazine, I’m sure you’re starting to realise that the biggest problem with travelling to Iceland is that there are TOO MANY awesome things to do. It’s enough to give you choice anxiety: should I bus around the magnificent sceneries or hang out in the museums? What’s the difference between the Golden Circle and the South Coast? Well put your mind to rest—here’s the quick-and-dirty overview over what is available and how to choose between them. 6 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

In Reykjavik there are roughly two types of experiences: sightseeing tours on the one hand, and activities on the other. In addition, basically every tour has several ways of getting around, for instance you can ride the bus, take a super jeep tour, fly in a helicopter or hire a car. So let’s just break it down one by one. WHERE TO GO: SIGHTSEEING TOURS The Golden Circle is without a doubt the best known day tour in Iceland. What is it? A 300 km loop that usually opens and closes in Reykjavik. It covers three main locations: Þingvellir National Park, the waterfall Gullfoss and the erupting geyser Strokkur. Reykjavik Excursions, for instance, has this tour scheduled every day of the week, several times a day, all year round, with guidance in English, German, French and Scandinavian. The question is: Why is it so popular? The fact is that there is a number of amazing places to see on day trips from Reykjavík, each with their own characteristics and amazing sights. Part of the reason the Golden Circle is a big deal, I

suspect, ironically, is because a lot of people go there. That being said, there’s a reason it’s popular, since there are some pretty unique things to be seen there: Þingvellir National Park is unique in two ways: it was the site of the Icelandic Viking Parliament from the year 930 to 1798, and it’s one of the best places in the country to see the tectonic drift—where the earth splits apart by about an inch a year. The Geysir Geothermal Area is unique in that it’s home to basically the only erupting hot spring in Iceland, Strokkur. And Gullfoss (the Golden Waterfall), is definitely one of the larger and more beautiful falls in Iceland. Whole day/Half day? The Golden Circle is basically a 6-hour excursion, but taking a whole-day tour usually adds something amazing for a relatively small increase in price. OTHER SIGHTSEEING TOURS FROM REYKJAVÍK There is a large number of destinations to day-trip from Reykjavik, each with their unique characteristics.

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The South Coast is particularly good for waterfalls and black-sand beaches. The route takes you between a magnificent mountain range on one hand and the deep blue sea on the other—it’s a very scenic drive. You will see waterfalls Seljalandsfoss (our famous “walkbehind” wonderfall), and the huge Skógafoss. It also offers the beach by Vík, with cool rock formations and basalt columns. Reykjanes is the peninsula on which the international airport in Keflavik resides, so if you’ve ridden the bus to Reykjavik, you’ve already got a taste of it. This area is one of the most geologically active places in Iceland. It has a number of geothermal areas and fumaroles, relatively fresh lava fields, rich history, quaint little folklore and, of course, the Blue Lagoon.

There are countless other places you could day trip from Reykjavik, but these encompass the major directions and areas you might choose to go. WHAT DO I DO WHEN I GET THERE? ACTIVITIES AROUND REYKJAVÍK Now we’ve covered the major places to go sightseeing, but what if you don’t just want to enjoy the scenery? What if you want to do something interesting and exciting while you’re there? Well, luckily there is no shortage of things to do in and around Reykjavík. There are too many to make a comprehensive list, so we recommend talking to a tourist information agent, however, some of the more exciting things are included in the box below.

GETTING AROUND IN COMFORT AND STYLE - HOW TO GET THERE So now you know where to go and what to do, but how do you get there? In general, for day trips, you have the choice of a Helicopter, a Superjeep excursion, a bus tour or renting a car. For most places, you will have most or all of these options, depending on the season and the particular conditions. Helicopters are of course awesome, so if your budget can handle it, it’s an amazing way to see the scenery and get around. They also have shorter, more cost-effective trips for those who just want to get a feel for it and get some excitement in their life. Superjeeping is the more luxurious of the ground-based options, and they generally take you places where normal vehicles can’t (or shouldn’t) go. The bus is a classic way to get around— and as opposed to self-drive, you don’t have to worry about finding the way—while the tour guide tells you everything you want to know. Car Hire, or Self-drive is often the most cost-effective for two or more people and offers more freedom, but then you don’t have the service of a driver or a guide.

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is directly north of Reykjavik. It has a number of quiet little towns which fill up with fishermen in the summer, the largest of which is Stykkishólmur—a beautiful, picturesque little town with many historic wooden houses. Finally, the coastline is smattered with rock formations and interesting natural phenomena. We deal with Snæfellsnes more extensively in the article “Journey to the Center of the Earth and More,” on page 22. © Reykjavik Excursion

HORSEBACK RIDING: Anywhere, for instance in the Lava Fields of Reykjanes.a HOT SPRING BATHING: Everywhere - the Blue La-goon is recommended. WHALE WATCHING: This is great to do from the Reykjavík Old Harbour. NORTHERN LIGHTS HUNTING: Outside the city, wher-ever the lights are and the sky is clear. See our article I Wish They Could Go On Forever. SNOWMOBILING ON A GLACIER: This you can do both near the Golden Circle, on the South Coast and in the Snæfellsnes peninsula. HIKING ON A GLACIER: This is easiest to do on the South Coast. SNORKELLING/DIVING: Most people do this at Þingvellir National Park though you can go any number of places. CAVING: Anywhere, but Reykjanes is good. We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 7

H recomighly on Tri mended pAdv isor

Another world between two worlds

by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson

In the summer of 2013, I found myself in the position of having to impress a young lady. She came to Iceland, my homeland, to visit me, and I wanted to show her the very best of the country. So where did I take her, you ask? Well, to snorkel in near-freezing water, of course! As the Scuba motto goes: Cold is Just a State of Mind. It’s not altogether as preposterous as it sounds at first: the Snorkelling tour equips you with a dry suit and thermals to wear under them. Aside from the sudden pang of cold I felt when I first jumped in, the only place I got cold was a thin strip of skin between my snorkel and my dry-suit hoodie. And it’s totally worth it: We dove into Silfra, which is a tectonic fissure resulting from the earth’s crust slowly pulling apart by about an inch a year, so you’ve got Europe on one side and America on the other. The water in Silfra is some of the purest in the world, coming from a glacier nearby and filtered through volcanic rock for about 50 years(!) (imagine the coal-filter water pitcher you keep in your fridge, only the scale of a small city). It’s so clear that on a good day the visibility is greater underwater than above it. And the colours! Because the visibility is so great, the light filters through an incredibly large distance underwater, and everything takes on an eerie blue glow like nothing you’ve ever seen before. The snorkelling suits are rather buoyant and there is a very mild current in the fissure, so all you have to do is float along at your leisure and enjoy the colours and ever-changing scenery along the way.

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To top it all off, Silfra sits in the middle of Þingvellir National Park, a beautiful, historic UNESCO world heritage site and the seat of the ancient Viking Parliament from the year 920 to the year 1800. It’s also one of the best places to see the fissures of the tectonic divide between America and Europe, so it’s not strange that this is where you do the snorkelling. For those with a PADI licence, it’s also possible to dive in the fissure, which obviously gives you more manoeuvrability in where to go and the option of seeing countless incredible sights. COLD IS JUST A STATE OF MIND Ok, I know what you’re thinking: Reggie, you’re a large, Icelandic, incredibly handsome and talented man, you’re probably not so sensitive to the cold. But how will I feel? Well first of all, thanks for the compliment, you insightful and perceptive stranger. But more importantly, like I said I was trying to impress a girl, a petite girl from Georgia (the state, not the country) who was decidedly not impervious to the cold. The worst that happened to her was that her hands got pretty cold, which will happen sometimes, but the point is she thought it was totally worth it. The experience of being underwater in a

tectonic fissure, seeing the crazy colours and doing something unusual you will remember for the rest of your life, and even yes, the feeling of getting a little cold, when your whole life is lived with air-conditioning in the summer and central heating in the winter – it lets you get out of yourself and feel alive, if only for a brief and glorious few hours. SCUBA ICELAND Scuba Iceland was started by Finni, Finnbjörn Finnbjörnsson, one of the most experienced divers in Iceland. He has been diving since the early 1990s, instructing since 1998 and amongst his many qualifications and decorations he was the first PADI Public Safety instructor in Scandinavia. He heads up a team of highly qualified and experienced guides who are relaxed, personal and professional. Scuba offers other tours around Reykjavík and Iceland, including combinations with diving and the Golden Circle, Northern Lights or Fontana Spa, excursions to the unique Geothermal Chimney “Strýtan” in Eyjafjörður in the East, 2-day packages and more. If you want to know more, check out their website or ask about them in a tourist information office, I definitely recommend them for an experience of adventure you won’t soon forget!

Scuba Iceland Fiskislóð 26, Reykjavík Tel: +354 892 1923 www.scuba.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Pour a glass of the number one beer in the country, raise your glass to a friend and say “scowl fyrewr thyer!” You should fit right in.

Skál fyrir þér!

Enjoy responsibly

Underground Wonderland Icelandic nature is beautiful, isn’t it? As you look out over majestic mountain ranges and moss-covered lava fields, who would have thought that there’s almost as much to see under the ground as you see above it. What do I mean? Oh just the literally thousands of caves, crevices and fissures hidden out of sight on this magnificent island. Iceland is mostly made up of relatively recent explosions of volcanic lava, from deep in the bowels of the earth. This means that there are all kinds of unusual geological phenomena scattered throughout the island. If you’ve driven past the lava fields of Reykjanes on your way from Keflavík airport, there are innumerable places where you can climb into and under the lava if you know where to look. Just within the borders of Reykjavík city there are more than a dozen lava caves. All of

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Iceland numbers over 500 caves that we know of - and it’s estimated we’ve found about 5% of them, meaning there may be as many as 10.000 caves in total.

volcano starts to cool and harden on the outside, but then the fresher, hotter lava underneath keeps flowing, leaving a hole, corridor, or “vein” in its wake.

These caves are as beautiful as they are interesting – the soil, rich in minerals such as sulphur, takes bright red, orange, yellow, or even deep purple shades. Here they’ve rested, immobile, for thousands of years, untouched by human hand ever since the lava flowed and cooled in their strange and eerie formations. There are many different types of caves, but a lot of them are formed when the red-hot lava flowing from a

INTO THE VOID It was into one such vein that I climbed, on a winter’s day almost as dark as the cave I climbed into. My friends and I were picked up from What’s On information centre downtown, and we only had to drive for about a half an hour to get to the Blue Mountains, under which lay our destination. We came to the ominously named cave

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Leiðarendi, or Journey’s End. Kommi, our guide, handed us helmets with flashlights on them and helped us scramble into the cave. Many caves are tall enough to stand in, but in this particular one, you don’t have to crawl, but you do kind of have to stoop. We were greeted in the cave by giant icicles, so of course I broke one off and used it for a popsicle ( - made from the purest water in the world!). It was a little slippery because it was still wintertime, so we had to tread carefully, but we felt totally safe in Kommi’s hands. We had to scuttle over some uneven spaces at some points, and squeeze though a couple of tighter spots, but it wasn’t very physically demanding and I would say even a person of a less-than-average physique should be able to do it pretty easily. I know that the company we went with, Iceland Expeditions, will choose the cave they explore based on the group they have each time, and

that they have more an less demanding locations than the one we explored that day. We spent about a half an hour exploring the rocky depths of the cave which twisted and turned, getting slowly narrower as we went on. At one point we all stood still, held our breath and turned our flashlights off – the darkness was so thick you couldn’t see your hand in front of your nose, and the silence was complete like I’ve seldom experienced before. It was pretty awesome. A STORY FOR EVERY STONE Looking at the strange and dreamy shapes the lava tends to take, it’s not difficult to see how the people of Iceland came to associate these crevices with all manner of tall tales. There are countless stories associated with every cave you can name, stories of elves creeping from their lairs and snatching infants and replacing them with their own, much worse behaved, offspring.

(This no doubt often explained the seemingly quite spontaneous appearance of a screaming and belligerent little person in your home). Or the trolls, who would make a sneaky deal with you and then claim your first-born for dinner, before being tricked into standing in the morning sun, which would of course turn them into the craggy stone forms which meets your eyes everywhere. Whether it was because of mythical creatures or strange people, the caves all over Iceland, and the upper highlands in general, were kind of a no-go zone for much of Iceland’s long history. But today in the age of science, we’re not put off by bogeymen, we have hiking boots, helmets and forehead-flashlights, so we bravely venture into these holes in the earth without much of a second thought. We of course take good care, wear the latest safety gear, and recruit professional guides like we did for our October adventure with Iceland Expeditions. I wouldn’t have liked to go down there on my own, but with the aide of Kommi I felt there was nothing holding us back. We emerged from the depths of the earth unscathed and carried on our merry way in search of even more adventures.

Iceland Expeditions Hólmaslóð, Reykjavík Tel: +354 777 0708 www.icelandexpeditions.is

We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 11

“The purest form of power comes from a mind at peace” The history of visual arts does not go back many centuries in Iceland, like it does in many other European countries. Having been busy surviving cold, volcanic eruptions and famine, the Icelandic artist as such did not emerge until in the 19th century. Since then, the land of ice and snow has produced talented and productive artists in many different fields and we Icelanders pride ourselves of our interesting and diverse art life. One of our most famous contemporary painters, and the most productive one for sure, goes by the name Tolli.

THE BOY WITH THE PAINT BRUSHES Born in 1953, he was one of five high spirited brothers. As you can imagine, there was never a dull moment when he was growing up. His full name is Þorlákur Kristinsson Morthens (pronouncing it is a challenge, I dare you to try) and he has been painting since he was a boy. When the other kids were playing soccer, he played with pencils and brushes. His parents both dabbled with painting so it was easy for Tolli to get the necessary equipment and the only subject he

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excelled in at school was arts & crafts. That does not mean, by any means, that he was a quiet and tranquil child, although we might picture him that way with the paint brush in his hands. On the contrary, he has always been a rebel. In his teenage years, Tolli opted out of society and rebelled against anything and everything. He became a poster child for the angry young Icelander of the ‘70s. Among other things, he spent time in the self-proclaimed autonomous neighbourhood of Christiania in Denmark,

worked as a fisherman on Icelandic boats and as a lumberjack in Norway, as well as travelling as a seasonal worker all around the Icelandic shoreline. But when Tolli was 24 years old, he decided that enough was enough and joined the Icelandic Academy of the Arts. He said to himself: “If I can channel into painting but only a fraction of the energy that I give to the capitalists running the fishing companies, I can make a living as an artist.” In the years 1982 – 1992 he produced twenty two private exhibitions, which is quite impressive by

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any standard. In that short period of time, Tolli became one of the best known young artist in the country. A REBEL WITH A CAUSE Tolli tells me that in his youth, he rebelled against the entire world. He arranged events to protest militant occupancy in Iceland and formed a movement against nuclear weapons. He was what is commonly known as “an angry young man”. Early in our conversation I discovered that his negative energy has now been channelled into something completely different, that being a peaceful mind. The angry young man has turned into a calm and serene artist who teaches meditation and writes books on love, peace and charity. To Tolli’s mind, he tells me, love is a megapower. It is part of our chemistry and an entity which effects the neurological pathways in our bodies. He says that we need to feel at ease in order to be happy and he spurns the old myth that art comes from suffering. It is the need, he says, the craving, which makes artists successful. To his mind, drive, courage and honesty are the key art-ingredients and suffering has nothing to do with it. I think he might be right. According to Tolli, to be a winner is to be constructive, always and everywhere, and he claims that life is hard. Meditation is a tool, he says, which helps people create the pathway towards acceptance. The purest form of power comes from a mind at peace, Tolli says with passion in his voice. It is hard to imagine that this zenminded man used to scream at society from the top of his lungs. ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE Tolli is a very emotional and spontaneous artist. According to him, his works of art can be regarded as an honest journal of how he was feeling at the time he painted the piece. This former rebel, now meditator and mediator, claims the world of the common people has been split into small consumption units and that all solidarity has been destroyed. To his mind, if we nourish the good, we will gain the power to change that. We just need to be patient and keep our eyes on the goal. If we all join in love and compassion, miracles can happen. The beauty in his views and concepts is simple and if you are lucky enough to meet him at his gallery, this will become instantly apparent. You will discover, as I did, that there is a strangely serene power surrounding him which is also to be found in his paintings. Tolli’s style and subjects have changed and developed through the years. His older pieces included, among We’ll take you there!

other things, powerful paintings of strange creatures and animals. In later years he has moved towards different subjects, including projections in ponds, volcanic eruptions, deserted farms and the fog. His attitude towards light has also progressed. In the early days, light was just a tool. Now it is the core of his works. It has been rather uncommon for Icelandic painters to have their own galleries and not many of them do. Tolli recently decided to break out of that tradition and started a gallery of his own at Laugavegur

in downtown Reykjavik. Needless to say, the gallery has been a success and on December 1st Tolli opens a new and improved gallery at Hólmaslóð 2, in the old Reykjavik harbour area. To his mind, it is extremely important for the customers to see the world which the painter creates with his art, and to see his work in an artistic context. Whether you are a virgin or a veteran in the world of painting as an artform, I can assure you that a trip to Tolli’s gallery will be a trip to remember.

Reykjavik Excursions | 13

A Journey to the Center of the Earth and more Taking a glimpse of the wonders of Snæfellsnes Peninsula

by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson

Snæfellsnes has everything and a bag of chips! In Snæfellsnes you can see a microcosm of all Iceland in a convenient Reykjavik Excursions day trip from Reykjavik. It has majestic mountain views, black-sand beaches, and a volcano and glacier rolled into one (a Volclacier? A Glacano?) and scattered around the scenery you find quaint little towns with interesting histories. The magnificent sceneries in this area is probably why it was used as the backdrop for Ben Stiller’s recent movie The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. SNÆFELLSJÖKULL – THE ENTRANCE TO THE CENTRE OF THE EARTH. One of the most interesting things on Snæfellsnes is without a doubt Snæfellsjökull glacier, which sits atop an active volcano at the tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. The volcano is 700.000 years old and has erupted about 20 times since the last ice age.

ages past to compete in strength and the heaviest one is 154 kg! (339 pounds!)

In his book a “Journey to the center of the earth” Jules Verne used Snæfellsjökull as the point of entry through which Lidenbrock and his team start their journey.

ARNARSTAPI Arnarstapi is a long-abandoned fishing village which comes to life in the summertime, with fishermen sailing from the harbour and people spending their summers in local cottages. It has a camp ground, an inn and a restaurant. Here you can hike around the surrounding area and enjoy the mind-blowing rock formations of the coastlines from the observation deck to which the RE tour will take you.

In the park, among other things, you will find Djúpalónssandur black-sand beach. There you can test your strength with the three rocks, Strong, Full-Strong and Half-Strong. These were used by sailors of

STYKKISHÓLMUR Stykkishólmur is a picturesque and beautiful fishing town with only 1100 inhabitants, but this doubles in the

summertime with all the fishermen and tourists. It serves as the center of transportation for the area – it’s where you catch the ferry for Flatey Island and Brjánslækur in the Westfjords. The town has many wooden houses from the 19th and early 20th century. The oldest of these is the Norwegian House, built in 1832, which now houses the local folk museum. Stykkishólmur also has a volcano museum and a swimming pool, among other things. That’s just a few of the countless interesting things to see, not even mentioning the scattered little farms, the area’s rich history (the peninsula was where the Saga of the Icelanders, one of the main historical sources of Iceland was written, as well as being the setting of the ancient Laxdæla), the magnificent Gerðuberg basalt columns, mountains like Helgafell and Hólahólar(the Hill-hills), and many other things. To learn more, book a trip and see for yourself! Tours of the whole area and all the sights are available through Reykjavik Excursions.

Reykjavik Excursions BSI Bus Terminal, Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 564 4776 www.re.is 14 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

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WWW.SEAFOODGRILL.IS — TEL: +354 571 1100 SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 14 - 101 REYKJAVÍK

Rustic Luxury under the Glacier by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

Búðir is located on the southern part of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. It used to be a place of commerce during the settlement, and it became a trading centre in the 17th century. It was popular in the old days to base fishingboats at Búðir and a hundred years ago this was one of the best places in the country to hunt sharks. Today, Búðir is the seat of one of the beautiful countryside hotels in Iceland.

NEW ON TOP OF OLD The hotel sits in a lava field on the westernmost tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. It was originally built as a reconstructive addition to an old apartmentstore complex in Búðir. The first guests arrived in the summer of 1948. Since then, the running of the hotel and restaurant has been in the hands of many, with different emphasis at different times. Hotel Búðir has always been renowned for great food and the unique aura of power and mystery delivered by Snæfellsjokull glacier to those who stay in its vicinity. The hotel was rebuilt in the years 2001-2003 after having been completely destroyed in a fire in February 2001. The new hotel was constructed in the spirit of the old building and specialists agree that the designers did and outstanding job in maintaining the atmosphere of the old hotel. It is safe to say that every single one of the 28 rooms and suites is a work of art. BABY, WILL YOU MARRY ME? In my dreams, this hotel is where I would get married. The main dining room sits 80 people and the church sits 70 people, but some lovely alternatives in the beautiful weather that Snæfellsnes peninsula sometimes has to offer would be the beach or the lava field or the harbor at the hotel. In the eyes of many of my friends and family, Búðir is one of their favorite places in Iceland and for good reason.

JOURNEY TO THE CENTER OF ALL GOOD THINGS The sights and wonders surrounding this beautiful oasis of good food and natural beauty are endless. Exceptional beaches, endless lava, seals swimming in the North-Atlantic and a hidden hot spring you can bathe in are just a few of the wonders you’ll encounter. But ever watchful is Snæfellsjokull glacier. This natural work of art is where Jule Verne placed his book, Journey to the Center of the Earth and the glacier is believed to have great supernatural powers. To spend time in this spectacular landscape in a luxury hotel with supreme food and drink is something I think everybody should indulge themselves with at least once in their lives. It does not matter if you are an Icelander or a citizen of a foreign country on your first visit to our lovely island, visiting Hotel Búðir is always going to be the experience of a lifetime.

Hótel Búðir Búðir, 365 Snæfellsnes Tel: +354 435 6700 www.hotelbudir.is 16 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

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The Kingdom of Steak by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir It is a special place to walk into. The entrance is rather inconspicuous but after entering you find yourself in an almost medieval passageway that leads to a heavy wooden door. Behind it awaits half the kingdom in terms of good food. THERE’S A STORY The restaurant is not big, located on the first floor of Barónstígur 11, seating 80-100 people. I remember when I first came there in 2003. I was accompanied by a man whose interest in food was, and still is, a bit uncanny but at the same time absolutely adorable. We had only just sat down in our comfy booth surrounded by woodwork and heavy South-American decorations when he said: “I know we haven’t tasted the food yet but I already really, really like this place.” ONCE UPON A TIME … Argentina Steakhouse was founded in 1989 and has since then been one of the rbest estaurants in Reykjavík. Having been owned by the same man since three months after it was founded makes it special. Having had only three head chefs in all that time makes it unique. The taste of their char grilled beef and lamb is unparalleled and much to the surprise of

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many, given this is a Steakhouse, their fish menu is also out of this world with carefully selected fish, shellfish and lobster. There is simply nothing like having the purest ingredients in the world grilled on wooden coals. Add the roaring fireplace, the leather sofas and chairs and fine selections of wines and this will be a night to remember. Argentina was the first steakhouse in Iceland to offer steaks by weight and some of the courses on the menu have been there for the almost quarter of a century since the restaurant opened. The Icelandic ox and lamb have remained unchanged since the settlement of Iceland some 1000 years ago. The ox has a small body compared to elsewhere; it develops slowly which makes the meat more stable and the muscles finer and more time for fat build-up. The Icelandic lamb is organic by nature; it is 100% drug free and feeds on herbs and shrubs in the Icelandic highlands that give it a gourmet game taste which is nowhere else to be found, and everybody knows that Icelandic seafood is the best in the world. When this is mixed with tradition, history, rustic leather, wooden interiors and impeccable service you get, the experience of dining out in Reykjavík becomes something else.

… THERE WAS A PRINCE. I have been to Argentina every year since that evening in 2003 with the same guy. After that first evening he insisted on us making this an annual thing. We are about to make reservations for our thirteenth consecutive year in dining at Argentina Steakhouse on his birthday, he turns 23 in November. The atmosphere surrounding me dining out with my son on his big day has changed somewhat. Instead of drinking soda with our T-bone we order a nice bottle of wine, we stay longer and obviously talk about different things than when he was 11. What has not changed is Argentina Steakhouse. The high quality of the food and staff is the same; we are still greeted with flawless service and the best steak in town. In a society that changes all the time, with fashion going in its inevitable circles, it is priceless to have some things stay the same. Besides, as in the case of Argentina Steakhouse; if it’s perfect, why change it?

Argentina Steakhouse Baronsstigur 11a, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 9555 www.argentina.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

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EVERYBODY LOVES IT by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

I have kids and I have friends who have kids. We talk. Lately, the brand name Igló&Indí has been popping up in conversation regarding clothing for our children. There has been talk of fun prints and comfortable cuts and more to my interest as a journalist, there has been talk of great success in introducing the brand abroad. You must understand that Iceland is a nation of just over 300.000 inhabitants. Whenever something of ours draws attention to itself overseas, it makes us proud, happy and last but not least, curious. I made it my business to find out more. 20 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

THE BEGINNING Igló&Indí was founded in 2008 by renowned designer and mother of three, Helga Ólafsdóttir. Comfort, style and creativity were here guiding lights when she started her now famous children’s line, along with the notion that the clothes should be favourites for both children and their parents. Now, I have a five year old son. We do not always see eye to eye regarding what to wear and do you know why? Because I want him to dress a bit stylishly sometimes but he prefers comfort over everything else. This is why Igló&Indí caught my attention. According to Helga, she gets most of her ideas from children and from Iceland, the place where children experience freedom and are allowed to play outside with other children, animals and figments of their imagination. What adds spice to this lovely mixture is that Helga studied in Copenhagen, London and Milan and had prior to founding the company been a designer of adult fashions for many years. The idea of Igló&Indí came to life when she lived in the US with her husband and

her then two children, a boy and a girl. She found that there was lack of comfortable

boy clothes that were also stylish and cool. In late 2008 she made her move and started her own company. Even if she did so in the middle of the Icelandic economic crash, the wheels started moving, the ball started rolling and Helga was in business. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

THE NEXT PHASE Helga’s partner is Tinna Ólafsdóttir. She is a mother of four and has a degree in finance from the University of Iceland. She joined Igló&Indí as CEO in 2011. By then the company had expanded rapidly without the organization and infrastructure necessary to ensure future growth. Tinna’s background in business and retailing was just what the company needed to spread its wings. To begin with, Tinna’s involvement was intended to be a three month project. Now she has been with the company for three years and says that she is in love with it. I met Tinna at her office and I can assure you that her

words are no overstatement. At this point in time, Igló&Indí is becoming increasingly popular in Northern-Europe, the United Kingdom, Scandinavia as well as, interestingly, in Australia. The current company goal is to become a leading Scandinavian brand in Northern-Europe. THE SECRET TO THEIR SUCCESS Don’t get too excited; Tinna and Helga did not hand over to me the recipe for creating a popular children’s clothing brand. I will however share with you what magic I managed to capture during my visit to their office. Igló&Indí have an excellent product and an unusually strong logo but that alone does not a clothing label make. In Tinna’s own words, none of that matters if you do not have the right staff. Their team is unusually spirited and they swap ideas and criticism like there is no tomorrow. They are highly motivated with exceptional drive and they all walk in rhythm most of the time. Bottom line: The best business idea in the world will never amount to anything without the right people to execute it. MOTHER AND SON (RE)UNION My son would wear sweat pants and a long-sleeved t-shirt every day if it were up to him. However, it is not up to him, it is up to me. Every now and then I want him to wear something stylish to match his stylish parents. (His stylish mother, to be exact. Let’s face it, the boy gets his fashion sense from his father.) It may sound like a cliché and so be it, but Igló&Indí have made my life easier. By now, there is no debate, no negotiations and no hassle when my little nugget and I go to birthday parties or the theatre on the

We’ll take you there!

weekends. We agree on what he should wear on every occasion because we have found a clothing line that meets both our needs. To be honest, and you cannot tell him I said so, if Igló&Indí also made clothes that fit his father, all of my problems in life would magically disappear.

Igló&Indí Skólavörðustígur 4, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 571 9006 Kringlan Mall, 105 Reykjavik Tel: +354 517 7913 www.igloandindi.com Reykjavik Excursions | 21

A Food Designer with a Passion for Raw Foods

by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

To interview a restaurant owner at lunch time during the opening of her third restaurant was a phenomenally bad idea. After watching this tiny hurricane of a woman running around for a few minutes, I made a judgement call and told her I would be back in the afternoon. Which retrospectively should have been my plan to begin with. Gló now has three raw food restaurants in the Reykjavik area. The owner and master chef, Solla Eiríksdóttir, has been involved in vegetarian and raw food cuisine for over 30 years. My first question, when I finally got her to sit down, was on how it all started. “I became a vegetarian before I was twenty. I was sick with allergies and food intolerance and was forced to choose between going on medication and completely changing my diet. I chose the latter and became a vegetarian, a life change that soon turned into passion for making good healthy food and spreading the gospel. Soon I started teaching vegetarian cooking and by 1994, I had my first restaurant. 16 years after my change, I found myself ready to try something new. That is when I gained interest in raw foods. I went to Puerto Rico in 1996 to study raw cooking. So I entered the world of raw rather early. “ According to Solla, people tend to connect “healthy” with “bad taste” in their minds. Her objective is to obliterate that connection by making raw food based on recipes and ideas that people already know and love. “My goal is to slowly but surely root out the prejudice and misconception that people have regarding raw food. In 25 years, the option of having raw meals will have become as common and natural as the vegetarian alternative is today.”

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The road to reform is long and winding and Solla takes her role very seriously. “I am extremely passionate about this. Instead of turning my belief that raw food makes everything better just onto myself, I have spent the last 17 years inventing and developing recipes that turn what people already know into raw food. As a result, my restaurants offer pizza, enchiladas, sushi and lasagne, all according to the raw ideology. The idea is to get people to have a taste, to like it and to come back. “ But what exactly does the raw concept embody? According to Solla, it is a cooking method that entails heating the food to only 42-47°C. That way the enzymes in the food can be preserved in order to give the human body a chance to maintain its self-healing abilities. This applies to vegetables, fruit, nuts, seeds and corn. But in order to get people on board, Solla adds a twist: “Our restaurants always have on offer six to nine types of salads, one raw dish, one cooked vegan or vegetarian dish and one chicken dish. We cook the chicken in a simple manner and then we add the raw sauces and good spices to get people used to the raw taste and texture. The purpose of this twist is to enable people who enjoy good raw and vegetarian food to come here and eat with their friends or spouses who do not share their taste in food … yet” she says and laughs. And once a

week they have meat free Mondays to raise awareness on how much water and land it takes to make one kilogram of meat. Her endeavours have not gone unnoticed outside of Iceland. Solla has in the last two years been voted “Favourite Raw Gourmet Chef” and “Favourite Raw Simple Chef” in the annual Best of Raw contest, which accepts nominations and votes through their website bestofrawfoods.com. This is indeed an exceptional honour for her and a priceless praise for Gló. Towards the end of our meeting, I asked this ridiculously busy woman if she never gets tired. She smiled and said: “Yes, but I have so much passion. The passion keeps me going. The days have been long in preparing the opening of the new restaurant, but I have been giddy as a little girl from excitement. I am so utterly convinced that Hippocrates was right when he said that we are what we eat. People are just people, they all have to eat. I want them to eat well and feel welcome.”

Gló Laugavegur 20b, 101 Reykjavík Engjateigur 19, 105 Reykjavík Strandgata 34, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 553 1111 www.glo .is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

The best health and body experience Iceland has to offer

World where water art & design play together in perfect harmony Laugar Spa Sundlaugavegi 30a, 105 ReykjavĂk, T. 553 0000 E. laugarspa@laugarspa.is W. laugarspa.com Opening hours: Mon - Fri 06:00 - 23:30 / Sat 08:00 - 22:00 / Sun 08:00 - 20:00

SÓLEY ORGANICS Wild - Powerful - Pure Sóley Elíasdóttir is the woman behind the label Sóley Organics. Sóley Organics is a cosmetic company from Iceland that has been active since 2009, although Sóley had started putting together products in 2007. The company has an organic certification, which means that there are no toxins what so ever in the products; neither for the skin nor the enviroment. The complete production takes place in Iceland. Sóley has been mixing creams and herbs together since she was a child as her family practiced herbal medicine. She came up with the idea of Sóley Organics on her own but the company has been growing ever since the start. In 2010 she approached an investor and around 10 people are involved in the work today. When asked, Sóley tells me that her label focuses on being enviromentally friendly as well as “a healthy food for the skin.” ‘Organic luxury’ is the company’s slogan, which surely matches their goal. Today, Sóley Organics is mostly on the Icelandic market but Sóley wants great things and she excitedly tells me that 2016 will be a good year for the company. Before too long, Iceland will not be the only market and not even the biggest one anymore.

But what are the long term goals for the company? „We want to grow bigger and become an international company. We want to be known as a label that thinks of the inner health parallel to beauty, with an awareness of the enviroment.” Asked about the three products that are essential for the skin, Sóley doesen’t have to think long to answer. 1. ‘Græðir’ is a healing cream with Icelandic herbs, free of any additives. “It’s a rescue cream,” Sóley says herself. 2. ‘eyGlÓ’ is a moisturizer that contains a blend of evening primrose and handpicked herbs. It gives good hydration. 3. And last but not least, the newest product is Birta - lift and glow face oil. An anti-aging moisturizer which contains amongst others Icelandic Birch, Yarrow and Arctic Sea Buckthorn Oil. The final words Sóley says to me before we hang up are: “Love and peace!” I’ll take these words with me into the day, refreshed after a good talk with this nice, ambitious woman.

Sóley Organics Bæjarhraun 10, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 555 2222 www.soleyorganics.com

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Iceland’s most precious cultural heritage Reykjavík City Museum is proud to present Settlement Sagas. The central feature of this new exhibition are of the nation’s greatest treasures, ancient manuscripts that are usually kept under lock and key at The Árni Magnússon Institute for Icelandic Studies. Recognised by unesco as having outstanding cultural value, the documents on display include Landnámabók (the Book of the Settlement), Íslendingabók, Kjalnesingasaga, Jónsbók and the Bill of Purchase for Reykjavík (1615). The Settlement Exhibition Settlement Sagas Aðalstræti 16/Reykjavík Open daily 9– 20 www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is

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From City Lights to Super Jeeps by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir & Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson

Have you ever been on top of a glacier? You won’t believe this magical realm of white plains above the world, and what better way to explore it than the excitement and comfort of a snowmobile. Snowmobiles are great fun and easy to operate. All the Mountaineers’ snowmobiles are two seated touring sleds with hand warmers and a high windshield. Participants can choose between a double and a single ride, so just stick the kids on the back seat and get going!

The Mountaineers of Iceland offer day tours where 1 hour of snowmobiling is included: The Express Activity Tour and the Pearl Tour. The Pearl Tour takes you on the Golden Circle, but with a snowmobiling twist. This tour allows visitors to get in touch with some of Iceland’s most famous and exciting natural phenomena and add a glacial adventure to it. It takes you to all the must-sees; Þingvellir National Park, Geysir hot spring, Gullfoss (The Golden Waterfall) and then they kick the action into high gear to get even

closer to Iceland’s nature and go for a snowmobiling tour on Langjökull, Iceland’s second largest glacier. If you have a knack for adventure and the need for speed, this day trip offers Iceland‘s best and then some. To be the operator of an open motorized vehicle on your way up to the second largest glacier of a volcanic island will introduce you to a feeling to which there is no comparison. Mind you, everybody is allowed to go at their own pace to start with and if you would rather double up with your partner and sit in the back, the experience will still provide you with something to share with your grandchildren. If you are on a tight schedule while staying in our beautiful country, the Express Activity Tour might be more suitable for you. It takes you to Langjökull glacier or a snow area in the mountains. Once there, you will embark upon an exhilarating one hour snowmobiling tour across endless white fields of snow. This is a great way to combine the experience of some awe-inspiring scenery and an adrenaline-filled activity.

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Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

To the Mountaineers, safety is the biggest issue, so just remember to bring your driver‘s licence. Everyone engaged in their activity service operations have extensive experience in the tourism industry and in activity operations and the strictest safety standards are always em-ployed. All participants are provided with necessary gear like warm overalls, helmets, boots and gloves. BUT THAT’S JUST THE BEGINNING. The Mountaineers offer a wide variety of tours including jeep excursions, combinations with other activities and more! In addition to the Pearl Tour and the Express Activity Tour, there is, for instance, the Þórsmörk & the South Coast which takes you, as the name implies, to the south coast of Iceland and to Þórsmörk. On the way you will see the waterfall Seljalandsfoss, before heading north to the highlands of Þórsmörk—a virtually untouched wilderness of magnificent mountains and unbridged rivers. It’s a wild ride! The Northern Lights Hunt takes you in the comfort of a super jeep to hunt for the northern lights, wherever they may be seen. The agile trucks can go where most other vehicles can’t, and the drivers are experienced and adept at finding the best places to see the lights. With the Northern Lights and Snowmobiling at the Top of the World, you can combine the best of both, riding your vehicle across the milky white pastures in the dead of night while the Aurora Borealis play up above. This is all in addition to a myriad of day tours like the Monster Quest, which takes you to sites connected to legends and folklore, Quad Biking in the wilderness, and the Glacier & Desert Tour to Western Iceland. SUPER JEEPS AND TRUCKS The Mountaineers own and operate a number of super jeeps and trucks which have been specially modified to get to glaciers and other remote areas by the rugged mountain tracks of the highlands, inaccessible by normal cars. Their super jeeps have extra-large tires, 38 to 44

inches, so they can get their guests to areas that no other vehicles can. All the Mountaineers’ Jeeps have radio transceivers for communication between cars and a GPS Satellite Navigation System so whether you want to go on a scheduled trip or design your own Icelandic adventure, you are in good hands. The Mountaineers recently upgraded a large part of their truck fleet to “super luxury”. They have a new 8X8 and a 10X10 truck, both specially designed based on the Mountaineers’ extensive experience of Iceland’s mountain roads, and equipped with very most comfortable seats, heat management, speaker system, wi-fi and the very cutting edge in safety equipment. They are especially adapted to Icelandic conditions and are capable of going where other buses can’t go, they are perfect for a group of adventurers, family reunions, bachelor parties. The 8X8 Luxury Super Jeep seats 49 people and is specially made out of a MAN-truck’s 460 horsepower engine and driver’s compartment, the chassis of a German army truck and the passenger

We’ll take you there!

space of a bus. It is 14 meters (45 ft) long, 3.8 meters (12 ft.) tall, 2.5 meters (8 ft.) wide and it drives on 58 inch tires, has integrated guidance, and facilities for serving soup and coffee. The custom built 10X10 truck is made of the driver’s compartment and chassis of a GINAF 10X10 truck, and a DAF bus. It measures 13.6 meters long (44 ft.), 3.8 meters tall (12 ft.) and 2.55 meters (8 ft.) wide, drives on 54 inch tires, is powered by a 480 horsepower MAN engine and has allwheel-drive. They are about the largest conceivable street-legal vehicles you could possibly fashion in Iceland and they can get to some amazing places you wouldn’t dream of going in a normal car. We definitely recommend the Mountaineers for anyone who is looking to take a step out of ordinary life, and experience the

Mountaineers of Iceland Skútuvogur 12e, 104 Reykjaík Tel: +354 580 9900 www.mountaineers.is Reykjavik Excursions | 29

The Icelandic Horse A Faithful Servant and a Loyal Companion

by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir Someone once said that there are only two ways to properly explore Iceland; from the air and on horseback. All the SUVowners in the country will probably beg to differ but there is at least some truth in this. THE BACKSTORY Thousands of people in Iceland keep horses simply for the pleasure of riding and enjoying the companionship of these wonderful animals. The popularity of travelling on horseback has been growing continuously and Icelandic horsemen are considerate and respectful when it comes to both nature and their horses. The history of the Icelandic horse goes back to the country’s settlement in the late 9th century and the breed has remained pure for over a thousand years. There is and has always been only one breed of horses here – The Icelandic Horse. For centuries the horse was the only means of transportation and also the most important working animal, through the years it has been referred to as “our most essential servant”. Today there are close to 80.000 horses in Iceland, an incredible 30 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

number for a nation of 300.000 people. The horse is used for riding, travelling and competition purposes and still plays a practical role in the annual sheep and horse round-ups in the highlands. A FIRST CLASS RIDING CENTER Íshestar is a 30 year old company and one of the most well-established horse rentals in Iceland. They provide scheduled day tours, country side tours and highland tours up to 10 days long with airport transfer, full board and accommodation. This is the real thing. The Íshestar Riding Centre is unique here in Iceland with first class facilities set in the beautiful surroundings just outside Reykjavík and endless possibilities in riding, hiking and other outdoor activities. The company also offers boat trips, jeep safari and horse shows on demand and their Riding Centre includes a spacious restaurant with a fully licenced bar. TOURS ON HORSEBACK The scheduled tours vary in shapes and sizes from half hour tours for children to ten days of riding in the highlands. The many various day tours include riding in the wonderful surroundings at Hafnarfjörður and other locations but also mixing and matching horse riding with a visit to the Blue Lagoon, whale watching, biking, hiking and seeing the Northern Lights, to name a few. For longer trips, the country side and

highland tours offers many irresistible possibilities, I urge you to visit Íshestar’s website to see what I mean. I myself have had the pleasure of exploring the Icelandic highlands on horseback on several occasions. There is absolutely nothing like it. If you have the remotest interest in horses (and honestly, even if you don’t) and are ready to explore the highlands of our beautiful volcanic island, I guarantee you that Íshestar will take you on the adventure of a lifetime.

Íshestar Sörlaskeið 26, 221 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 555 7000 www.ishestar.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Step Back in Time with the Vikings by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

What is the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Iceland? Björk, volcanic eruptions and heaps of snow? Well, you wouldn’t be too far off – but what about the Vikings? The Viking heritage is the cornerstone of Icelandic culture. These gritty, fierce guys who built the country originally, after having sailed over the North Atlantic on small boats, powered by sail and oars, sometimes in questionable weather and always with little to eat or drink. Without them, none of us would be here. VIKING HISTORY AT THE HEART OF HAFNARFJÖRÐUR The Viking Village in Hafnarfjörður has been a town landmark for over two decades. The two oldest houses in the village cluster were built in the mid-1800s. In the early 1900s the older of the two was connected to the fishing trawler industry of the town, which later became a flourishing fishing industry contributing to the growth and development of Hafnarfjörður. In 1985 the town council consented to have the house demolished but the National Committee of Building Preservation was against it and the building was saved. Since then, the Viking

Village has been under constant care and renovation and has long since become a permanent part of the Hafnarfjörður landscape and culture. TWO THEMED VILLAGES The Viking Village is a unique place and it is the only Viking theme Hotel and restaurant in Iceland. We have step by step been developing our facilities over the last 24 years and will hopefully continue to do so in the future. We offer Hotel accommodation and Viking houses. The Viking Village is located in a lovely town by the harbour called Hafnarfjörður but is in the Reykjavík area, it only takes 10 minutes to drive to Reykjavík city center. Good for families and groups. In the hotel we have 41 rooms and then we have 14 cottages that can fit up to six people in each cottage. In the hotel we have free wifi, TV, hair dryer, coffee and tea maker, free parking, 24 hours reception and outside the hotel we have hot tup and sauna that our guests can use for free.

The Viking Village

In the Viking Village we have two restaurants, Fjörukráin and Vallhalla. Valhalla can seat 50 guests and Fjörukráin can seat 400 guests. Most nights we have live entertainment in the restaurants. The Fisherman’s Village is our newest accommodation and restaurant and is located in Hlið, Álftanes only few minutes drive from the Viking Village. Like a country home by the seaside, such an idyllic place to visit. The restaurant is open for groups in the evenings and there we have singer that comes and sing for the guests while they have dinner. Hlið is close to the president’s residence.

The Viking Village

The Fisherman’s Village 32 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Strandgata 55, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 565 1213 www.vikingvillage.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Iceland’s largest shopping center Only a 10 minute drive from Reykjavík city center! More than 100 shops and businesses with world renowned brands.

Come for a visit and shop tax free

OPEN: WEEKDAYS 11-19 THURSDAYS 11-21 SATURDAYS 11-18 SUNDAYS 13-18 WWW.SMARALIND.IS FACEBOOK INSTAGRAM

The Light of Our Lives Iceland, silly as the name can seem during the summer months, was named so for a reason. In the old days, before electricity and heating when the cold and dark actually killed people, selfpreservation and innovation were the key to surviving. It is a wonderful thing that one of the best known brands in Icelandic export is a product that has helped the Icelandic nation survive since the settlement. It‘s called lýsi and we are so proud of it. Our Norwegian settlers brought with them the knowledge of how to process lýsi which in simplified terms is oil from the livers of the animals in the sea. They made it from whale, shark, fish, seal and even birds and used it as fuel for light, to calm waves, to soften and protect the clothing of seafarers and as a nutritional supplement for both humans and animals. For a time it was even used as currency, as sources from as far back as 1096 state that church taxes in Iceland were paid in the form of this life saving, smelly liquid. The name “lýsi“ comes from the product having been used as lamp oil, in Icelandic the verb “lýsa“ means “to illuminate“ and when living this close to the Arctic Circle one can only imagine how precious it must have

been to be able to have light in the house. Add to that the fact that lýsi is a valuable source of vitamins A and D (in a country where the sun is absent most of the time and low in the sky when it does show its face) and it becomes an understatement to say that lýsi has had a real impact on survival in this country. The method of processing lýsi from the liver in the old days was, in the simplest terms I can think of, something like this: They dug a hole, put the liver in the hole and waited for the oil to squirt out. Nevertheless, Lýsi was the biggest export product of Iceland as early as the 14th century, along with dried fish and woollen cloth. THE BEGINNING In 1938 a man named Tryggvi Ólafsson founded a production and export company and called it simply LYSI . He had then spent the decade before trading and experimenting with lýsi, first in a small lab he prepared in his home. At the time he founded LYSI, the company was considered a pioneer in the production of marine lipids and later became a global leader in the field. The company’s research has been on-going for decades and today LYSI is at the world forefront of research and product development. Tryggvi had a seat on the board until he was 96 years old and it was in the year 1981 that the first nonfamily member became president of the company. In 1999 the company changed owners again and has been run by Katrín Pétursdóttir and her family since then. Katrín

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is the granddaughter of Tryggvi Ólafsson. Her parents left LYSI in 1981 and founded Fiskafurðir, a company in similar ventures as LYSI. It was a happy day when they gained ownership of what had been founded by her grandfather over 60 years earlier. In April 2007, LYSI was awarded the President of Iceland’s Award for Export Achievement for its “unique achievement in the sales and marketing of marine lipid products and for the vision the company demonstrates in product development and for the build-up of knowledge and expertise in its field.” THE REST IS HISTORY Every child in Iceland knows that there is no way of growing up to be big and strong without having a spoonful of Lýsi with breakfast every day. They have no idea what Omega-3 and vitamins A and D do for them and at that point they don‘t care. This is tradition. This is what mummy and daddy raise them to do because their parents told them to and that has been the way of things in this country for hundreds of years. But the LYSI product line has more to offer than just classic cod liver oil in a glass bottle. The company now has various production lines, including shark liver oil, omega-3 fish oil and various blister products where in addition to the lýsi itself the customer is provided with vitamins and minerals to go with the ever so healthy liver oil we all love. But the majority of the company’s turnover comes from a tradition of 700 years, exporting cod liver oil in bulk. And in a country that is consumed with nostalgia, you can just begin to imagine how loving and respecting LYSI is branded into our dark-enduring, hard-working Icelandic soul. It’s part of who we are. Simple as that. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

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Mastering the Simplicity of Good Bistro A bistro-style restaurant under Scandinavian influences? This I have got to try. So, I did. When we arrived it was after eight o’clock on a Wednesday night. The place was packed with smiling faces and suddenly it didn’t feel like a Wednesday anymore. Everybody there seemed inanely determined not to let anything get in the way of them and their constitutional right to relax, chat, eat good food and have a drop of wine. At first I thought to myself that the interior of the place must call for this sort of relaxed attitude. At Snaps Bistro you will not find glass and steel unless in the form of cutlery. The key words here are more along the lines of flowers and wooden panels with the addition of a gazebo (yes, really). The food was first class, his steak was perfectly

cooked, my chicken was zesty yet tender and the wine was lovely. All around us were people enjoying the simplicities of a good Bistro menu. But even though all the ingredients were first class and the wine list exemplary, that alone does not create a desired atmosphere. It is rather simple, when you think about it. There is such a thing as “that extra special something”, a form of ambiance that has nothing to do with the food or the drinks or the waiters (which were great by the way). For some reason,

this place has it. We had an absolutely lovely evening, without really being able to put our finger on what made it so. It is my solemn belief that sometimes restaurants try too hard. Snaps Bistro does not try. It just is.

Snaps Óðinstorg, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 511 6677 www.snaps.is

FLATEY ISLAND AND THE VIKINGSUSHI ADVENTURE When crossing Breiðafjörður bay you have the option of stopping for a few hours at the charming island of Flatey, where time literally stands still. Most of Flatey´s houses are from the 19th century so it gives the impression of travelling back in time. There is a lot to see and experience in Flatey Island; unique nature, birds, the church with its stunning artwork, stillness and absence of time, the old library, historic sites and the old village. And if you get hungry, you can try some of the delicious homemade delicacies at the Hotel Flatey.

A Sea Tour to Remember With over 25 years of experience in sailing over and around Breiðafjörður bay, Sæferðir has become a household brand in Iceland. This huge fjord west of Iceland separates the Westfjords and the Snæfellsnes peninsula. It is the home of thousands of little islands with birds and wildlife beyond your wildest imagination, both on land and in the ocean. 36 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Their ferry Baldur takes travellers and their cars from their base in the lovely town of Stykkishólmur over to Brjánslækur on the other side of the bay. In addition to Baldur they operate the VikingSushi Adventure boat tours, on a large cruise vessel, around the southern part of Breiðafjörður bay.

For a more adventurous journey, The VikingSushi Tour is about 20 km long and takes roughly 2 hours. During the tour you will experience number of stunning and exciting things such as unique basalt rock-formations, an endless number of small islands, colourful bird life and the highlight of the tour, the VikingSushi; fresh scallops & sea urchin roe straight out of the ocean.

Sea Tours Smiðjustígur 3, 340 Stykkishólmi Tel: +354 433 2254 www.seatours.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

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Reykjavik Excursions | 37

Into the Belly of the Fiery Beast

(on a Tuesday Afternoon) I unexpectedly got a chance to go on the Inside the Volcano tour. I figured the chance to go INSIDE a volcano is worth re-organizing your day, so I made a few quick calls, borrowed an anorak, a warm hat and mittens, and I was on my way! It was a rainy and breezy day downtown as I walked down the hill from the booking agency to the Bus station. I arrived about 10 minutes early and the full bus pulled away a few minutes before the scheduled 14:00 departure. The ride out to Thríhnúkagigur took about 30 minutes, past green mossy fields and snow-covered mountains. Thríhnúkagigur is the only volcano in the world where you can go inside an empty magma chamber. Our guide explained that once a volcano stops erupting, the walls often cave in- thus transforming the volcano into a crater.

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We arrived at a kind of visitor’s centre, where we received a brief overview of the journey to the volcano. We would take a 3km walk to basecamp, which I would rather call a hike; though there was little change in elevation, on this particular (May) day, the snow was deep enough that my hiking boots were completely covered! I was well dressed so I was alright, but I bet the guy with

the shorts and flip-flops had some second thoughts on the way! We had the wind at our back on the way to the base camp at Þríhnúkagigur. Along the way, our guide Birgitta pointed out some pseudo craters, which are only found in Iceland and on planet Mars. The journey to the base of the volcano took about 45 minutes.

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Once at basecamp, we had an opportunity to rest a bit and get a hot drink. They split us into groups of 3 or 4, and gave us helmets and harnesses for the short walk along the ridge, and subsequent descent into the volcano. We met up with more guides who I later discovered were seasoned mountain men, experts in determining if it’s safe to make the walk up to the volcano. We were told it was some of the most extreme weather they’d ever done it in, but we never felt unsafe – clearly we were in good hands. The walk along the ridge was in nearly hurricane force winds that day. It was quite exhilarating as, instructed by our guides, we held hands and- with our back to the wind- slowly made our way up to the mouth of the volcano. They hooked our harnesses to lines on the metal bridge as we walked to the lift, then secured us to the lift itself. The lift made it way slowly down, squeezing through spaces so tight that you could touch the inside of the volcano. And then suddenly, we were hanging in the gaping void. It’s

incredibly huge – taller than the Statue of Liberty – and the colors are amazing.

It wasn’t bad for a Tuesday afternoon. Not bad at all.

Once we landed, we had a free range to wander inside the volcano for about 30 minutes. There were bright orange lines marking out where it was safe to walk but I didn’t feel restricted at all. Even within those boundaries, it was wise to use a headlamp and step carefully as the ground is pretty uneven in a lot of places. I marveled at all the colors of the rocks- I expected browns and reds but not bright yellows, blues and greens!

I really recommend this experience for anyone interested in nature, geology, adventuring,

It’s surprisingly silent inside the volcano. Aside from the slight hum of the elevator running and the hushed whispers of my fellow travelers, the mountain really blocks out all outside sounds.The melted snow and rain was gently falling down into the volcano. The drops caught bits of light as they fell in what seemed like slow-motion- it was so beautiful. The photos really don’t do it justice, it’s hard to capture the sense of serenity and peace and I sat silently and let the fact that I was laying down inside this powerful (now dormant) beast of nature wash over me.

TIPS »» Take the weather into consideration. It can change quickly in Iceland and can be different on the mountains than it is in the city. »» Bring sunglasses. Whether it’s a surprise or not, Iceland is bright! »» Dress well and wear comfortable shoes. »» Bring an extra pair of socks in case your feet get wet. »» When inside the volcano, put away your camera or phone for a while and just enjoy it! We’ll take you there!

mountaineering, or who just wants to do something unusual. As I mentioned previously, it’s the only place in the world where you can do this sort of thing – usually volcanos will collapse once they run out of magma, and if this kind of magma chamber exists anywhere else, there definitely isn’t a handy day tour to lower you into it by elevator. That being said, though it is efficient, it doesn’t at all feel inauthentic or particularly “touristy” - our guides were real mountaineers and everything felt there very close to nature – the trek over the mountains, the walk along the ridge, even being exposed to the elements, gave the whole thing a very outdoorsy, adventurous feel. In all it’s a great way to experience the unique, mountainous and rocky nature of Iceland, to get out of the city, and a truly magnificent way to spend a day.

You can book your Inside the Volcano Tour at insidethevolcano.is, the nearest Tourist Information or your hotel lobby! Reykjavik Excursions | 39

Álafoss The Small Dell with the Big History

by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir North of Reykjavik is a small town called Mosfellsbær. It is one of the smaller municipalities surrounding the capital, inhabited by just under 9000 people. It differs from the other suburban towns in being detached from the urban area, although Reykjavík keeps moving closer and closer. HOW IT USED TO BE In the heart of Mosfellsbær, up the Varmá river (e. the Warm River) is a small village within the village It is called Álafosskvosin, which in English can be referred to as “The Dell by the Waterfall of the Eels“. Yes, as cute as it gets. Because of the warmth of the river, this location spawned the first industrial cluster in Iceland in 1896. The river was utilised to clean and colour wool, which spawned the founding of the company Álafoss, which later became the main exporter of Icelandic woollen clothing and an empire as such, at least on an Icelandic scale. All of the buildings that make up this little gem of a dell originally belonged to and served the wool industry in one way or the other, but today they are part of a society made up by a coffee house, a recording studio, a carpenter’s workshop, a knife maker and the store named after the original wool exporters, Álafoss. HOW IT IS TODAY In addition to its magical location, the Álafoss store is an adventure in itself. Located in the old factory house that was used to drive the mills of the wool factory, it offers everything your heart could possibly desire when it comes to Icelandic woollen products. From

the traditional Icelandic “lopapeysa” (woollen sweater), handmade by knitters from all over the country, in all the colours and patterns they can think of, to high fashion woollen clothing, Icelandic jewellery, gift merchandise and souvenirs, this is a store that absolutely needs to be on your bucket list. Finally, if you are a knitter yourself, the store offers a handsome selection of knitting wool yarn of all types and colours plus recipes. After a visit to Álafoss, all you have to do is get started! MAKE IT SIMPLE But what truly makes Álafoss so magical is the history. On display at the store you will find a selection of old knitting machinery and photographs from the early days, and looking out of this 110 year old factory house, overseeing the Varmá River just outside the window, it is easy to imagine the power and foresight that turned this lovely little dell into a busy industrial site, buzzing with life and big dreams. Taking a walk outside, you can almost hear the voices of children spending their early 20th century summers diving into the warm river swimming pool. Life was simple back then. When you visit Álafoss, it becomes simple again.

Álafoss Alafossvegur 23, 270 Mosfellsbær Tel: +354 566 6303 www.alafoss.is 40 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

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Álafoss - Main Store Álafossvegi 23 270 Mosfellsbær

Álafoss - City Center Laugavegi 8 101 Reykjavík

Carrying on the Tradition A Knife at a Time One of the various entrepreneurs who have made themselves comfortable with their business at the Álafoss dell is the knife maker, Páll Kristjánsson, though everybody calls him Palli. Both he and his knifes are one of a kind. Upon entering his workshop, I was greeted (rather harshly) by a huge German shepherd. Of course he was already tied up and Palli called him down instantly so I had nothing to worry about. But there was something rather special in meeting a knife maker for the first time, surrounded by blades, wood, reindeer antlers and a dog the size of my car. Palli is the only knife maker in Iceland and to be honest, I doubt that they make knifes like his anywhere else in the world either. The blades vary in being hand-made copies of Iron Age or Viking Age designs from Denmark, Damascus steel, or factory-produced blades from other parts of Scandinavia. And each

handle or hilt is hand-made by Palli from reindeer antlers, sheep and cow bone and hoof, whale tooth and bone, and 12 millionyear-old trees (brown coal or fossils). He also uses various Icelandic stones and hikes both the highlands and lowlands of Iceland in search of materials; this man truly is the real thing. Not only that, but he also fashions the sheaths for the knives and they are no less evocative. Using leather, tree and skin from cow, seal and fish, he creates a unique and fitting holster for each knife. Often, like with

the handles, they are intricately patterned with Viking symbols and carvings. But you can ask for any writing or pattern. It is my solemn belief that when it comes to his labours of love, this man can do anything.

Knife maker - Palli Kristjansson Álafossvegur 29, 270 Mossfellsbær Tel: +354 899 6903 www.kitchenknifes.is

www.knifemaker.is

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Reykjavik Excursions | 43

Experience Art at Reykjavík Art Museum

Magnús, Sigurðarson, Rotating Renaissance Man, Vizcaya Museum & Gardens, Miami, 2015

Reykjavík Art Museum is Iceland´s largest network of art museums and displays both modern and contemporary art, paintings, sculptures and works in different media by established local and international artists. The museum is housed in three unique buildings, Hafnarhús, Kjarvalsstaðir and Ásmundir Sveinsson Sculpture Museum, across the city and can all be visited in one day by foot or bus. The entrance ticket is valid to the all the buildings at the same day.

THIS SUMMER THERE ARE NINE EXHIBITIONS AT REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM.

Kathy Clark, bears; truths…

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HAFNARHÚS At Hafnarhús you can see Áfangar by Richard Serra who is one of the most significant artists of his generation. Erró and Art History are also on display but Erró is one of Europe’s most notable pop artists. Magnús Sigurðarson holds his first person exhibition in Iceland for years at Hafnarhús. Sigurðarson is best known for his video art and installations. At Hafnarhús you can see an installation by Kathy Clark were she has given forgotten, discarded bears a new purpose and a new world. Kunstchlager will also be in D-gallery at Hafnarhús this summer and open various exhibitions.

Ásmundur Sveinsson, Artistic inclination 1936.

Richard Serra, Áfangar, 1990

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KJARVALSSTAÐIR Kjarvalsstaðir Reykjavík Art Museum celebrates that this year, there are 100 years since Icelandic women gained the right to vote, with two exhibitions; Two Strong Women by Júlíana Sveinsdóttir and Ruth Smith and the exhibition Vertical/Horizontal by Júlíana Sveinsdóttir and Anni Albers.Works by Jóhannes S. Kjarval will also be on display. Kjarval has a legendary place as a painter in Icelandic cultural history but this exhibition comprises the artist´s drawings and sketches. ÁSMUNDARSAFN Ásmundarsafn is dedicated to the art of Ásmundur Sveinsson and the summer exhibition is Ásmundur Sveinsson: Artistic Inclination. It contains 80 works that span the career of the artist and clearly show how his artistic vision developed throughout his life.

Hafnarhús

Kjarvalsstaðir

Ásmundarsafn

Tryggvagata 17, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 590 1200 www.listasafnreykjavikur.is

Flókagata 24, 105 Reykjavík Tel: +354 517 1290 www.listasafnreykjavikur.is

Sigtún, 105 Reykjavík Tel: +354 553 2155 www.listasafnreykjavikur.is

Open daily from 10 - 17 and from 10 - 20 on Thursdays. Guided tours every Thursday at 6 p.m. June- August.

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The Golden Circle

If you ask anyone what the number one tourist attraction in Iceland is, the answer is clear: The Golden Circle. It is without a doubt the best known and best publicised day tour in the country with the best access and the highest number of organised seats per day. For instance, Reykjavik Excursions has this tour scheduled every day of the week at 9am, all year round, with guidance in English, German, French and Scandinavian. The question is: Why?

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The Golden Circle is a 300 km loop that usually opens and closes in Reykjavik. It covers three main locations: Þingvellir National Park, the waterfall Gullfoss and the erupting geyser Strokkur in Haukadalur. ÞINGVELLIR Þingvellir National Park is a historical and geological wonder, located in fields of the beautiful vegetation north of Þingvallavatn, the largest lake in Iceland. There you will find the famous rift Almannagjá where the Eurasian and American tectonic plates are pulling

apart by a few centimetres each year. Þingvellir was the founding place of Iceland’s Parliament in 930 and the venue for annual parliament meetings until 1798. Þingvellir is also the place where in 999 or 1000 it was decided that Iceland should be a Christian nation and where Iceland declared its independence from Denmark in 1944. There is nothing more Icelandic than Þingvellir. Even the least patriotic Icelander will experience feelings of loyalty and commitment upon walking through there. It is sacred and it is who we are.

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GULLFOSS Then we have the two attractions in Biskupstungur, a waterfall and a geyser. The waterfall Gullfoss (Icelandic for golden waterfall) is in the river Hvítá and is 32 metres high where it plunges into the 70 metre deep canyon surrounding it. In the early 20th century there were many who felt strongly that Gullfoss should be harnessed for production of electricity. This plan was abandoned when the daughter of the main advocate threatened to throw herself in the waterfall. The State of Iceland acquired the waterfall in 1940 and it has been on the state preservation list since 1979. Nobody ever speaks with solemnity of harnessing it anymore, it is considered priceless in its natural state. This has even developed into a phrase within certain circles in the country so that when you suggest something inanely stupid you get replied to with the words: And then what? Sell Gullfoss? GEYSIR Haukadalur valley, where both Gullfoss and the geyser Strokkur are located, is a very active geothermal area. In addition to Strokkur and his brother Geysir, Haukadalur is the home of a multitude of mud pools, fumaroles and algal deposits. Strokkur erupts once every 4-8 minutes and reaches a height of 15-20 m, sometimes it goes as high as 40 m up in the air. It is spectacular, scary and very Icelandic. But then again, so are many, many, many other locations in Iceland. We have geothermal areas and awesome waterfalls all over the place. So why is this 300 km loop such a phenomenon when it comes to tourism? Ask anybody and they will tell you that if you only have one day in Iceland, spend it on the Golden Circle. Why? It has been argued that any wonder of nature that can me fitted into a day tour from Reykjavik, has nice roads and shops and catering at the other end would become an attraction. The argument is basically that it is simply combination of these factors that has made the Golden Circle what it is. I must admit that this is an argument that I have found myself making from time to time in pure irritation over the popularity of this particular waterfall over all the others. But I’ve been thinking and I have a theory: When my parents were kids, people used to go for a drive on Sundays. Sometimes just within the city limits but on nice summer days the Sunday-drive concept was taken to the next level. Is it possible that this is when the Golden Circle came to be? The trip We’ll take you there!

would take the entire day and the roads were nothing like what they are now but all the same. People would make a packed lunch, eat it on Þingvellir, go to Geysir for afternoon coffee (where there has been coffee for sale since 1928!) and be back home in Reykjavik by dinner time. And now that I think about it, that is why the Golden Circle is so popular. Because in the old days it was OUR main attraction and when the tourists started pouring in, showing interest and asking

where to go we naturally told them, without even a moment’s hesitation, to go where we have been going for decades. So the Golden Circle being what it is really just says one thing about Icelanders; We are a “mi casa su casa” sort of folk and we want you to enjoy the same things we do. So I welcome you, no implore you, to go see the Golden Circle if it’s the only trip you make out of town while you’re here.

Reykjavik Excursions | 47

The Gem of Reykjavík by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

Perlan, or The Pearl in English, opened in June 1991. It is one of the capital’s landmarks and an amazing construct, a gigantic dome that connects six geothermal water tanks, who each has the capacity to store 4 million liters of geothermal water. Situated on the top of Öskjuhlíð hill, The Pearl can be seen from all over and serves as one of the greatest locations for sightseeing in the Reykjavík area. A CONSTRUCT LIKE NO OTHER The dome is made from glass and steel bars that not only connect the water tanks and form the dome-like structure, but also supply the building with heat. The steel shell is, in fact, a gigantic radiator. In cold weather during the winter, warm water flows through the steel shell. In the warm summer days, cold water flows through the shell and serves as a cooler. That is how the temperature within the dome is regulated to keep an even temperature all year round and make this beautiful construction truly amazing. There is much to see within this remarkable structure. The fourth floor cafeteria is surrounded by a broad deck from which you can enjoy a panoramic view of the city. On a bright day, the view there is simply spectacular. Another fun feature is the indoor

48 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

geyser imitation. This powerful gadget creates an indoor hot spring that can reach meters into the air. Quite intense actually! A VIEW FROM THE TOP The pearl within The Pearl is the restaurant on the top floor. With its rotating floor and an unparalleled view, it is one of the most popular restaurants in Reykjavík and rightfully so. The Pearl is a landmark that should not be overlooked by anyone who visits our nation’s capital and the same goes for the restaurant. It is only fitting to mix the magnificent view and impressive architecture with food prepared by some of Iceland’s greatest chefs. Some of the Pearl’s chefs are even members of the Club des Chefs des Chefs, a membership of chefs who prepare food for presidents and other national leaders and VIP’s. I have had the pleasure of dining in the Pearl’s restaurant on several occasions, and it really is an absolute favourite of mine. Whether it is their wild game buffet, their Christmas buffet or a la carte, whatever the occasion, the Pearl offers nothing but impeccable service and exquisite food. One thing to note is that Perlan restaurant places high emphasis on creating everything from the ground up. As such, you’ll find that the delicious ice cream served is made on location, by the highly qualified staff. Likewise, their bread, pastry and other such items are made right there. This is really in line with the quality focus that surrounds every aspect of the Perlan Restaurant. Dining there, one can really sense that everyone is working towards the same goal – that of customer satisfaction.

But that is not all. Dining there comes with a very special feeling which is difficult to put into words. I guess that the word which is best suited to describe this experience is festive. Not only does it feel both classy and fancy, but it has the ring of true celebration, to dine below this huge dome, seated on a rotating floor with a view of the entire capital, the mountains, the ocean, and if you are there at night in the wintertime, the city lights and the stars. It makes me feel like a princess. And that, my friends, is a feeling that I like.

Perlan Öskjuhlíð, 105 Reykjavík Tel: +354 562 0200 www.perlan.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

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We Welcome You To

The Best Airport in Europe Keflavík International Airport was voted the best airport in Europe in 2014 in an extensive passenger service quality survey at all leading airports. The Airport held top position in Europe in 2009 and was voted the best airport in Europe with fewer than two million passengers in 2011. In addition, the Airport was inducted into the ACI Director General’s Roll of Excellence in 2014 for continuous success in service surveys from 2008. You can therefore be certain you are in good hands.

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NEW COMMERCIAL AREA 2015 KEF is one of the fastest growing airports in Europe and to meet the needs of our growing number of customers a decision was reached to expand and renovate the whole commercial area. The British design agency Portland has designed the look and theme of the new Duty Free area. This multi award-winning agency has 20 years of experience in a

variety of services for retail outlets in airports. The agency’s aim was to combine many facets of this rugged and quirky enchantment to create a dramatic, contrasting and richly immersive environment that inspires retailers and operators, and ultimately, complements the downtown Reykjavik experience.The selection and integration of materials

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of the departure lounge area is highly dynamic and distinct. The rich tapestry of natural textures and colours is a reference to the unique character of the people and quirks of the culture. The majority of these elements, both natural and craft-made, have been locally sourced. In this way the environment and culture is brought into the departure lounge and support for the local economy ensured.

We guarantee lower prices and a great gastronomic and shopping experience. Whether you prefer a light refreshing smoothie, fresh fish, luxury coffee, hanging out in a family friendly restaurant or enjoying a beer from a local brewery you will find all at the Best Airport in Europe. We look forward to seeing you and hope you enjoy your travels.

ARRIVE EARLY AND ENJOY OUR SHOPPING AND DINING The new Duty Free area has a wide selection of food and beverages, books, magazines, clothing, electrical goods, spectacles, cosmetics, Icelandic design and plenty more.

Keflavik International Airport Keflavik Airport, 235 Keflavíkurflugvöllur Tel: +354 425 6000 www.www.kefairport.is We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 51

ร gisgarรฐur 5, 101 Reykjavik (Old Harbour) www.elding.is

elding@elding.is

+354 519 5000

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Elding is far and away the best Whale-Watch operator in ReykjavĂk. Outstanding naturalist guides, very friendly and professional staff, comfortable and stable boats and Marine Biologists working on board... Brilliant! " Mark Carwardine one of the world's most celebrated whale and dolphin experts

Travel Iceland On Your Own Iceland On Your Own (IOYO) is a simple, convenient, flexible and affordable way of getting around Iceland. It’s a system of bus routes all over the country that are bookable either individually or in different, extra-affordable backages, called passports. Passports mean you can hop on and off the bus at your leisure, making for an extremely flexible itinerary. The balance between reliability and flexibility makes IOYO an ideal mode of transportation for more independent and self-reliant people – a bit like Interrail for Iceland, (but without the trains, because there are no trains here...) The buses are modern and comfortable, and the fleet includes 4X4 coaches capable of traversing the difficult roads of the highlands – meaning you are as free as a (flightless) bird! All of the routes in the south have an audio-guide, and some of the routes in the North have a guide-guide, so in a manner of speaking, you’re getting both transportation and a tour. THERE AND BACK AGAIN One of the most popular destinations for our more adventurous travellers is the “Mountain’s back”, or Fjallabak area north of Mt. Eyjafjallajökull volcano, in the south of Iceland. This includes the Fimmvörðuháls

hike, from Skógar to Þórsmörk, and the Laugavegur hike from Þórsmörk to Landmannalaugar. One issue with this hike is the transport – if you drive to Skógar and hike to Landmannalaugar, are you going to hike the whole way back again to get to your car? Are you going to pay for a rental car that you park somewhere for 3 days? The Highland Hiker’s Passport is an easy solution to these issues. It takes you once from Reykjavík out to either Skógar, Þórsmörk or Landmannalaugar, and once back to the city from any of the three locations. (Just to be clear, it does not mean that you can hop on and off those buses all summer. Once out, once back, that’s what you get.) The specially outfitted 4X4 coaches can handle the rough roads to Landmannalaugar and ford the rivers on the way to Þórsmörk,

and you can just sit back and enjoy the wild ride. ONE RING-ROAD THAT TOTALLY RULES You may have heard the famous rumour that Iceland only has one road and while that’s technically untrue, it’s a fact that Route 1 is by far the longest and most used road, and it does circle the whole way around the main part of the island. With the Circle Passport you get to go once round the merry-go-round. You can get off wherever you want and back on again, until you get back to where you started from. Definitely recommended for those who want to see the major sights in a convenient, affordable and flexible way. OTHER PASSPORTS The Highland Pass takes you in a circle, to the north of Iceland along mountain road Kjölur, and then south along Sprengisandur, along the south coast and back to Reykjavík, hopping on and off as you please along the way. The Highlights Pass includes a wider area and some of Iceland’s most beautiful natural wonders, where you can travel back and forth along the chosen routes for 7 or 15 days. The Combo Pass is like the Highlights Pass, but includes all the travel you can do on ALL the IOYO routes, for either 7, 11 or 15 days. So whether you’re a young backpacker, out for some fun with your family, a rugged hiker, adventurous retiree, whether you’re here with friends, loved ones or on your own, if you’re looking for the hidden places off the beaten track or just the tried and tested highlights of Iceland, Iceland On Your Own has something to offer you in a convenient, customizable and cost-effective way. Check out their offering today and find the package you need!

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Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

The concept of the restaurant is "casual fun dining" and we prepare what we would call a simple honest, "feel good", comfort food, where we take on the classics with a modern twist.

S KÓ L AVÖ R Ð U S T Í G U R 4 0

10 1 R E Y K J AV Í K

TEL.+354 517 7474

INFO@KOLRESTAURANT.IS

KOLRESTAURANT.IS

ALL IN ONE

RESTAURANT

ól

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ðu

íg

Kla p p a rst.

Vegamó

stað Berg

egur

Diverse menu, great value and a wide selection of cocktails, beers and wines.

astr.

Laugav

Kitchen Bar Café

gata

Vegamótastíg | 101 Reykjavík | tel. 511 3040 | www.vegamot.is

Reykjavík Escape by María Rut Ágústsdóttir It was a bright, brisk day when we rolled up to the old ‘Rye Bread Factory Building’ in downtown. Reykjavík. (Most every house in Iceland used to be something else, and is often known under the name of its former function). We, a group of 5 former high-school friends, were celebrating our ‘annual party’ (another very Icelandic thing) and wanted to do something out of the ordinary. So it was time to cram into a locked room together and see if we could escape. We were greeted by a very friendly young man who took away our valuables (“there’s no phones in the prison cell!”) and then imprisoned us, with our full cooperation… WHAT IN THE WORLD? We had arrived at Reykjavík Escape, a kind of scenario-based group-puzzle game. You pick a scenario, show up with a group of friends, get locked in a room full of props, riddles and clues, and then have to figure out how to escape ( - hence the name). We got to do the Taken theme, where your group has become children again, taken hostage by a crazy old woman. Your goal is to figure out who she is and why she kidnapped you, in less than 60 minutes. You do so by solving clues and… well, I don’t want to ruin the surprise. In fact, it’s kind of difficult to write about the games because not telling you exactly what it’s all about is the whole point of the exercise. The scenarios all involve being trapped in

a room for various reasons, and the aim is to escape the room. Depending on the size of your group, you can share one room and work together with your friends, or split up into two or more rooms and show your friends how much faster you are to solve the puzzle (and let’s face it, isn’t that really all we all want to do?) PICK YOUR PRISON The whimsical scenarios include The Scientist, Taken and Prison Break, each featuring a different theme and a unique riddle to solve. Taken is the one that my friends and I did, and that’s probably the creepiest one. I wouldn’t recommend it for people with kids. The setup to the Scientist is that you’re breaking into the laboratory of an eccentric scientist to steal his miraculous cure for cancer, when you find out that the madman has booby trapped the whole place! You find yourself suddenly trapped and, along with your friends, have to find the way out of the room while navigating the booby traps – all before the cops show up!

go in after us who shouldn’t know what to expect! In fact it was such an exhilarating experience it took all of us quite some time to settle down after we finished! When we met up again later in the evening, one of the girls told us she had had to go home and take a nap to recover from her excitement – and I totally don’t blame her! I would wholeheartedly recommend the games for a group of friends like mine, but I could also see myself coming here to have some fun together with my family or even just if the weather’s not too great and I want a thrill out of the rain. It’s more active and entertaining than a museum, more unique than a movie, but more wholesome than hitting the bars - it’s very fun and I would say it’s definitely worth a try. So if you’re looking for something to do in Reykjavík, you won’t be disappointed by Reykjavík Escape!

The third option is Prison Break, where you and your friends have been framed for murder and are sitting in prison, awaiting execution. You need to escape before it’s too late! By an astounding coincidence, the prison guard has stepped out of his office for 1 hour, so here’s your chance!

This photo is from their Facebook page; ‘These girls just KICKED ASS at Taken - close to a record time’.” 56 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

When we were finished (in record time!), we were all so full of adrenaline that we came out of the room talking loudly about what we should have done differently – only realising when the caretaker started frantically hushing us that there was a line of people waiting to

Reykjavik Escape Borgartún 6, Reykjavik Tel: +354 546 0100 www.reykjavikescape.com Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

th S t w e op udy w t a w io ll .io ns yo o .is n

Scheduled Buses & Bus Passports SUMMER 2015

Grímsey

Raufarhöfn Kópasker

Ferry

Drangajökull

Ísafjörður

Þórshöfn Siglufjörður

Húsavík

Airport

Ásbyrgi

641 641a

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Skagaströnd

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650 650a

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Dettifoss

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r gi or ub ir m að m st Di útu Sk

Airport

Ferry

661 661a

SBA

Varmahlíð

Svartá

Reykhólar

Krafla

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Egilsstaðir

Airport

Ferry

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Neskaupstaður Búðardalur

Stykkishólmur

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610 610a

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17 17a 62 62a

Hveravellir

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Langjökull

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Kerlingarfjöll Hvítárnes crossroads

14 14a

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Airport

Höfn

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Reykjavík BSÍ

Laki

Flúðir Landmannalaugar Airport

Keflavík

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Vatnajökull

Gullfoss

6 6a

11 11a

Hveragerði

Skaftafell

Selfoss

10 10a Kirkjubæjarklaustur

9 9a

Hvolsvöllur

Þórsmörk

Markarfljót Seljalandsfoss Vestmannaeyjar

Hvanngil Emstrur

18 Hella

Mýrdalsjökull

20 20a

Skógar Ferry

Surtsey

21 21a

Jökulsárlón

Eldgjá

Vík

Route map 2015

Free WiFi on board Reykjavik Excursions coaches.

R O

BSI Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík •

580 5400 • main@re.is • www.re.is • www.ioyo.is

An Old, Food Serving Friend The bus terminal in Reykjavik is commonly known as BSI. It is THE bus terminal in Iceland. Since its foundation in the late 60‘s, it has been the hub for all bus travel in the country. BSI is conveniently located in central Reykjavik and serving food has been a part of life at the bus terminal since the beginning. THE TERMINAL TRADITION The bus terminal café/bistro is called Fljótt & Gott and they serve traditional Icelandic food, which has been the BSI food service trademark for almost 50 years. The atmosphere in BSI is very cosmopolitan since it serves as the centre for bus travel in Iceland. The terminal has hundreds of thousands of guests passing through each year, both foreign and domestic. With daily trips to and from the international airport at Keflavik, this really is a busy place. The terminal restaurant Fljótt & Gott has a rich history and is one of the oldest restaurants in the country. It is safe to say that the tradition connected to Fljótt & Gott is very strong and the experience there is without precedent. It welcomes everybody to their comfortable and family-friendly environment where everybody can find something to their liking. Every day from 10:30am to 3:00pm, Fljótt 58 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

& Gott serves affordable local food, as close to Icelandic home cooking as it gets. But their grill is open from 7:00am to 11:00pm every day, serving burgers, steak, deep fried fish, sandwiches and other conventional grill dishes along with wine, beer or sodas. AND SOME THINGS REMAIN THE SAME There are two things that Fljótt & Gott are probably most famous for. First I would like to mention their serving of singed sheep heads, a traditional Icelandic dish which people either love or hate with absolutely no middle ground. This course goes back to when the country was so poor that every little piece of meat had to be utilized. I can still remember my son bursting into tears of terror on the first and only occasion he tasted this alleged delicacy. But I can also tell you that those of my family members who do appreciate singed sheep heads fall

into a trance of happiness every time this old tradition ends up on their dinner table. The second thing is their drive-through. Many of us who grew up out in the country remember trips to Reykjavik with our parents, sitting in the back seats of smokefilled cars with no seatbelts. The drivethrough at BSI was a fixed stop for us outof-towners back in the day. A hot dog and a soda for the whole family at the bus terminal drive-through is a cherished childhood memory for so many of us that the Fljótt & Gott is almost an old friend to our minds. An old friend that serves food.

Fljótt & Gott Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 1288 www.fljottoggott.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

An Adventure Under a Bridge This is not the story of the three goats, this is the slogan for one of the best seafood restaurants in town, a remark made by one of their first customers as he contentedly pushed his plate to the side. The Fish Company is located in one of the oldest houses in Reykjavik, commonly known as the Zimsen building. It dates back to 1884 and was originally situated in Hafnarstræti, a few hundred meters east of its current location. In 2006 the house was completely renovated with tender loving care and then moved to Grófartorg in 2008 where it respectfully sits, under a bridge. During the groundwork stages of the Grófartorg reconstruction area, excavation revealed the remains of the older harbour. That has now been incorporated into “The Tides”, a work of art by Hjörleifur Stefánsson developed in collaboration with Minjavernd Heritage Trust. This gives

the area a unique atmosphere that gets accentuated even further as the tide rolls in and out of the artwork simultaneously to the tide in the current harbour. The menu is, as the restaurant name suggests, designed to take you on a seafood journey and not only a journey of the Icelandic culinary waters. With the Fish Company you get taken on a trip around the world, with top class marine cuisine melted together with themes from Japan, France, Sweden, Fiji, Ireland, Tahiti and the USA to name few. Dining at this restaurant is dining at its finest in

Reykjavik. To my mind, this is a restaurant that you can always count on to make your evening something to remember. Add to that the wonderful surroundings of this this renovated lovely old house, whether having lunch or dinner, you are in for a treat.

The Fish Company Vesturgata 2a, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 5300 www.fiskfelagid.is

“One of the standouts in recent cookbook releases” Iceland Review “...captures the extraordinary otherworldliness of the Icelandic landscape” Lonely Planet Magazine

Into the North

beautifully illustrated cookbook, a culinary saga of Iceland Zest Magazine

“... beautifully illustrated cookbook, a culinary saga of Iceland ...” zest MagazIne

“One of the standouts in recent cookbook releases” Iceland RevIew

“... captures the extraordinary otherworldliness of the Icelandic landscape” lonely Planet MagazIne

A Wrist-Work of Art

by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

What springs to mind when you think of watchmakers? Do the words Swiss, old and tradition leap up there by any chance? I thought so. Now, think again because there is a new boy in town and he‘s proven that timeless innovation, superior craftsmanship and exquisite precision can be achieved even if your heritage does not include chocolate and the Alps. When Sigurður Gilbertsson, in association with his friends Grímkell Sigurþórsson and Júlíus Heiðarsson, approached his father Gilbert Ó. Guðjónsson, a watchmaker of 40 years, with the idea of them designing and producing their own collection, his father laughed. Today JS Watch co. has five collections and sells around 350 watches per year. When Gilbertsson‘s father stopped laughing back in 2005 and this beautiful father and son venture became a reality they created their own brand and made 100 watches to begin with, to test the waters so to speak. Within 6 months they were completely sold out. This was back in the day when the Icelandic financial bubble was growing at the speed of light and almost every man, woman and child in the country was splashing money around like there was no tomorrow. Soon after the launch of their first collection, JS Watch made preparations for a follow up line

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but then the financial environment started to change. The Icelandic krona, a local currency used in Iceland since the beginning of time, started weakening and in a short period of time it became three times more expensive to import the foreign-made components, the country’s currency became worthless and for a small manufacturer operating in the world market this was a huge problem. But there are blessings in everything and when the Icelandic economy crashed, along came the tourists. People from all over the world flocked to this curious volcanic island in the North because it had for the first time become affordable for ordinary people to visit. More importantly for JS Watch co; it became affordable for your average tourist to buy high quality design watches. They had an unrivalled high quality product at unbeatable prices for foreign visitors. “People had been desperate to come to Iceland but it was just too expensive,” explains Gilbertsson. “Once they discovered their

money would go a lot further the country became full of tourists. It has been great for business and not just in terms of sales. We not only take pride in our watches, but also our customer care. It’s very important for us that the people who buy our timepieces know the level of perfection we try and achieve. Although we aim to get that message across on our international sales, nothing can beat talking to someone face to face and welcoming them into our workshop.” Speaking of their workshop, among the many happy watch owners on their list of clientele are men such as Quentin Tarantino, Viggo Mortensen and the Dalai Lama, not to mention the entire Icelandic Coastguard. JS Watch co. is the Coastguard’s official supplier of watches and the offshore emergency service exclusively uses the Sif North Atlantic Rescue Timer, which says it all regarding the brand’s reputation for durability and accuracy. So dropping in on Laugavegur 62 for a warm welcome and a tour of the exquisite watch collections of JS Watch co should without question be part of your Reykjavík tour, it’s the chance of a lifetime to get the watch of a lifetime.

JS Watch co. Laugavegur 62, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 4100 www.jswatch.com Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

PROBABLY THE

WORLD’S SMALLEST WATCH MANUFACTURER

Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection.

At JS Watch co. Reykjavik we’re committed to provide a personal quality service and we pride ourselves on the close relationships we have with our customers.

We’re always happy to assist and we provide a friendly and reliable service where our customers speak directly to the designers and manufacturers of the brand.

Scan it and learn more! www.jswatch.com

Gilbert Watchmaker, Laugvegur 62, 101 Reykjavik, tel + (354) 551 4100, www.jswatch.com

Our Dearest Dairy Product Skyr (pronounced skeer) is a unique Icelandic dairy product which has been a staple food in our country for over a thousand years. It is still enjoyed daily by Icelanders, in various shapes and form, renowned for its high protein content and smooth texture. PROVISIONS OF HISTORY This deliciously healthy course or snack has been a large part of the Icelandic diet since the first settlers brought it with them around the year 1000. It is even mentioned in the Icelandic Sagas. Skyr is made from clotted skim milk, it has a slightly acid taste and a tinge of sweetness. This product has been popular through history, with both children and adults, due to its versatility and nutritional qualities. It is a creamy delicacy that is both fat-free and rich in protein, giving you a great sense of fullness. A convenient and healthy food that is loved by both Icelanders and visitors alike. In recent times this product, which to tell you the truth was considered a rather old fashioned way of eating when I was growing up, has become the snack of all snacks. With the bodybuilding craze that Iceland has undergone in the past years, a pot of Skyr

has again become the image of all things good and pure. The high protein/low fat combination has made it an indespensable part of any health oriented Icelander. A LOW CALORIE BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER AND DESERT. So for people who want to restrict their calorie intake but still eat well and maintain a balanced diet, skyr is the natural choice. Although, mind you, serving it with cream and lots of sugar, like my grandparents prefer it, might put a damper on the dieting aspect of things. Children love it and for most of us over the age of 35, skyr was probably one of the first solid foods we ever tasted. Speaking of children, I came home from work today, famished as usual, and immediately started rummaging through the refrigerator for something to ease my suffering. A can of Skyr was what I found, perfect, round, cold, ready to help me survive

until dinner time. I opened the can, took one oh so gratifying spoonful and left the can on the kitchen table to go answer the phone. When I came back (no more than two minutes later) I found my three year old son with my spoon in his hand, smiling ear to ear, telling me proudly that he had finished all of “his” food. Bless him. If you are into low fat cooking, unflavoured, unsweetened skyr is a great fat-free substitute for mayonnaise, crème fraiche or yogurt in cold dips and oven dishes. It contains 10% high quality protein, 20% of which is whey protein, best known for its muscle building qualities. FRESH FROM THE ARCTIC This beloved product of ours is made from the best ingredients: milk farmed in the fresh green pastures near the arctic circle where the water is pure and the nature is unspoilt. The modern day processing technique is 100% natural, based on the original principles, using a thousand year old recipe and milk from the same cow breed, the colourful settlement cow, whose milk has unique health-promoting qualities. Until a few years ago, Skyr was only available in Iceland. This has changed dramatically in recent years since Skyr is now produced in Denmark, Sweden and Norway under licence agreements from Iceland and exported to Finland. Skyr has proven to be liked by Iceland‘s neighbours with sales growing. This is really a lovely example of how life runs in circles since the original Icelandic settlers indeed came from Norway, and along with them, in all likelihood, the recipe for what has been the corner stone of Icelandic diet since the beginning of time.

64 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

introducing

cold weather strong northeast wind snow at times

Gilbert Watchmaker, Laugvegur 62, 101 Reykjavik, tel + (354) 551 4100, www.arc-tic.com

What to Expect in an Icelandic Swimming Pool

Every country has traditions when it comes to leisure. In our part of the world said traditions tend to evolve around keeping warm. Finland has saunas, Russia has vodka, Iceland has swimming pools. THE HOT TUBS It all started with the hot tubs. They have literally been part of Iceland since the settlement. The most famous one is Snorri Sturluson‘s pool, Snorralaug in Reykholt, who is presumed to have lived from 1178 – 1241. His pool is one of four ancient pools in Iceland still in use. Today there are around 12.000 summer houses in Iceland, I will tread carefully and say that at least 11.000 of them have a hot tub. There is a hot tub outside half the houses in my neighbourhood and most of the hotels in Reykjavík have a spa with a hot tub so you really have to make an effort if you plan to avoid them. The definition of “an Icelandic swimming pool” might sound something like this: “A man made, usually rectangular, hole in the ground, in most cases concrete, filled with 25-28°C warm, chlorinated water, accompanied by 1-5 hot tubs with water temperatures ranging from 38-45°C”. You’re welcome to try to find a swimming pool without a hot tub in Iceland. If you do, let us know. THE CHATTER It goes without saying that swimming and unwinding in warm geothermal water on a regular basis is good for both body and soul. What is even more wonderful regarding these blessed pools of ours is their role as 66 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

social centres. All over the country people show up every day at the same time, hang their clothes on the same hook (and God help you if you‘ve ignorantly occupied one of these sacred clothes-storing-devices) and have their daily hot tub chat with the same co-swimmers. The earliest of the bunch are sometimes called “the doorknobs”, because they tend to be already clasping the knob when the swimming pool staff show up for work, still yawning and stretching. After that we have “the 8 o’clockers” and “the 9 o’clockers”, but those who routinely show up after that tend to be the anti-social ones, people who like their routine, love their daily swim and hate having to chat in the process. In the afternoon and evening the chatter begins again but the crowd is different, parents having quality time with their kids, people relaxing after work or workout and dating. Yes, dating. Going for a nice hot tub in the evening is a popular second date in Iceland, I kid you not. THE FACILITIES You will find more outdoor than indoor pools in Iceland. The reason is simple; the outdoor ones are less expensive. Which is fine, the fresh air is good for you. And there is nothing like having a swim and a hot tub during a blizzard, please do if you possibly can. What we have in many places, to add

to the goose bumps, are outdoor dressing rooms. Drying after a swim and a hot tub on a winter evening in -5°C is one of the most refreshing experiences you will encounter. And don’t be scared of the cold, outdoor dressing rooms in Icelandic swimming pools are (usually) equipped with heat lamps to keep you warm. THE EXPOSURE One thing you must realise before entering an Icelandic swimming pool: You will see others of the same sex naked and others of the same sex will see you naked. There are rarely rooms or cubicles for you to undress in and even if there are, you will still have to take your bathing costume off while showering. Why? Because we like our pools and hot tubs clean and smudge free. It’s nothing personal and trust me, for every man, woman and child in Iceland this is as uneventful as having breakfast in the morning. You can find the opening hours of most swimming pools in Iceland on www. sundlaugar.is The norm on work days is that they open 7ish in the morning and close some time after dinner but as with any norm, there are exceptions. If you don’t have a swimsuit you can usually rent one so there is no excuse, you have to try it.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

We welcome you to KEFairport on your journey back home. Explore and experience Iceland and then indulge yourself with the Icelandic products and design available at the airport.

1 5 - 11 0 5 — H V Í T A H Ú S I Ð / S Í A

Please share your KEF experience with us: #wheninKEF.

BEST AIRPORT in Europe Even though we have been voted the best airport in Europe* we feel obligated to do better. The airport now offers more space, better facilities, diverse restaurants, more products at better prices.

Enjoy your stay at KEF airport

*Keflavik airport won the ASQ award for best airport in Europe in 2014 and was inducted into the ACI Director Generalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Roll of Excellence.

What’s On in Iceland

by Hjörtur Atli Guðmunds. Geirdal

So you‘ve arrived in Iceland, your warm clothes in your bag, high hopes and a lot of excitement. Great! But now what? There are about a million incredibly cool things to do in Iceland, so it can definitely be a daunting task to organize a stay here. Luckily – you‘ve got a hawk in a corner.

All the information on everything that’s happening in Iceland A HAWK IN A CORNER REEALLY DOESN‘T MAKE SENSE TO ME. Well – it would make sense, if you‘d have read the FAQs on WhatsOn.is. They‘re pretty awesome actually, though the author allegedly goes overboard at times in his borderline desperate attempts at humour. So having a hawk in one’s corner is a good thing. It‘s basically an ally, often times an unexpected ally, but one you can rely on. Your hawk will come to your aid when you most need it. Just like the guys and girls at What‘s On do! SO...WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT AGAIN? What‘s On in Reykjavik. It‘s three different things but still basically the same. You see, What‘s On in Reykjavik is

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a magazine that‘s published every month all year around. It‘s been published for over 30 straight years already and is one of the most established tourist publications in Iceland. There you‘ll find a selection of interesting articles, a comprehensive event calendar, covering everything that’s happening in and around Reykjavik, with a special emphasis on the spectacular museums of Reykjavik and the capital area, as well as plenty of other relevant and fun material such as restaurant, shopping and nightlife recommendation and a map of downtown Reykjavik. All in all, it‘s a cool magazine that you can pick up at all the hotels and the major places usually frequented by visitors to Iceland. Definitely something you‘ll want to check out if you‘re looking for something to do in Reykjavik. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

What’s On in Reykjavik also has a tourist information and booking office downtown, on Laugavegur 4, named, very creatively, “What’s On”. There they continue the work of the magazine by physically informing you about the city and its events, as well as giving you neutral advice on what tours and activities you might want to undertake while you’re here, and helping you book them. It can be really tough to know what exactly you should do with your holiday and how to make the most of the days that you’re here. You might be asking yourself: Where should I go? What should I do there? And how should I dress?!?! What’s the very coolest tour to go on? What’s weather dependent and what do I need to book in advance? What’s the meaning of life? But the staff of What’s On are locals with a good overview over everything to do, and they’ll take what you’re into doing (say shark wrestling) and advise you on the best way to do that thing (go on a scuba tour and hope for the best)...No promises on that “meaning of life” thing though. And even if there isn’t a specific tour for what you’re into, there’s always the chance that they know a guy who knows a guy. Basically they get you all sorted out – and it’s a free service! They also have a constantly-updated event calendar on the wall where the staff pin whatever hip musical, theatrical, artistic or other cool events might be coming up in the following week, a whole ton of free literature about Iceland and brochures about different tours, and out in the courtyard there’s a big ol’ map of Iceland and the bus routes and you really should just check it out. AND THEN THERE‘S THE INTERNET. Finally there is the website, whatson. is. It‘s basically the website for the

magazine – but the guys running the show decided to expand on it a little bit and taking advantage of the wonder that is the internet. You will of course find the majority of the content from the magazine, all the best articles and such, but on top of that they‘ve added a very extensive FAQ section, which (hopefully) should answer all the questions you might have about Iceland and Icelanders, an event calendar, and the option to book some hand-picked tours and activities in Iceland, operated by highly experienced collaborators of

What‘s On. That‘s something you might really want to consider if you‘re looking for some activities or tours in Iceland! Lastly – if there‘s any question you might have that‘s not answered on the site, or anything you might need help with while staying in Iceland, they’re super helpful and will do their best to help you out if you contact them (whatson@whatson. is) You can write them just to test them, or tell them you read this article. They‘ll appreciate it.

USE WHATSON.IS TO BOOK YOUR TOURS AND ACTIVITES IN ICELAND NOW, OR FOR FINDING EVENTS, INFORMATION AND EVERYTHING ELSE ABOUT ICELAND!

We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 71

“ZOMG REYKJAVIK HAS A BIG LEBOWSKITHEMED BAR!” Tweeted by @caitlinmoran - Followers: 541K – A Journalist for The Times. Ever seen the 1998 cult classic “The Big Lebowski” by the Coen brothers? Of course you have! Everybody has. But for those of you unfamiliar with the concept (you really should see this movie though) it involves the “Dude” Lebowski, mistaken for a millionaire Lebowski, who seeks reimbursement for a ruined rug and enlists his bowling buddies to help get it. In Reykjavík, we, now, have a bar based on the concept. YEAH, WELL. THE DUDE ABIDES. Lebowski Bar on Laugavegur opened in April 2012 and immediately became a huge hit. The general idea was to combine a bar with a diner styled grill, furnished in The Big Lebowski bowling style. Among the many great happenings at Lebowski Bar you will find are DJ’s every night and sometimes live performances, the Thursday night Movie-Quiz and every major game and sport event on the Big Screen. The bar can serve up to 300 people with food and drink in four dining areas so every individual or group can be seated comfortably. Their Diner Menu offers a variety of Lebowski burgers and milk shakes, such as the classic “The Other Lebowski” (Steak Burger with Bernaise sauce), the more healthconscious “Bunny Lebowski” (Chicken Burger

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with Blue Cheese sauce) or “The Nihilist” (BBQ Chicken Wings). The crown jewel, however, is definitely the White Russian Menu, made up purely of Vodka and Kahlua-based cocktails. Recently they’ve been greatly adding to their bottled artisan beer menu, and their selection of Whiskeys.

saw the bottom of that Tuborg draft glass, people were dancing to The Doors and my instinct told me to pick up a White Russian for me and my date, who had been talking to some EVE online game conference guests as I made notes in my head about the brilliant atmosphere.

THAT RUG REALLY TIED THE ROOM TOGETHER The location of Lebowski Bar, along with its brilliant concept-design, is a big contributor to its success. Laugavegur is the main shopping and bar-hopping street in Reykjavik. Virtually everybody goes there at one time or another, both locals and visitors. Lebowski Bar has through its location been both frequented by regulars and attended by passers-by and foreign visitors equally.

HEY, CAREFUL, MAN, THERE’S A BEVERAGE HERE! Among the previously named EVE Online conference guests I spotted a pair of Icelandic actresses, having what I can only imagine being a glass of milk (as opposed to heavy cream and vodka) considering their itsy bitsy waistlines. Also present was an Icelandic MMA fighter (the only one we have come to think about it) and a group of college students who looked like they were really enjoying the music. The atmosphere in Lebowski Bar does not ask for age, gender, if you are wearing a watch or if you like bowling at all. It only asks that you loosen up, have a beverage or two and maybe a burger but most of all that you have fun. Walking out of the front door I wondered how on earth such a wide group of people could find themselves sitting down and having such fun in the same place. But if the Dude abides, so should we.

I checked out Lebowski bar on a Thursday night. I had been there several times before on a weekend, but arriving tipsy and leaving drunk I never wrote any reviews (although I should highly commend the bar staff for great cocktails) so I decided to behave like an adult, see the band that evening and have a beer. Having shown up early I got a seat between the bar and the band. Starting with a Tuborg Classic draft, I waited for the band to play their tunes and boy, was I in for a treat. The young keyboard player (a 19 year old prodigy) started the night off with Booker T & MG’s Green Onions, followed by the guitar player serving ZZ Top’s La Grange with a twist. Needless to say, people could barely sit still in their seats. By the time I

Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20a, 101 Reykjavík +354 552 2300 www.lebowski.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

5 0 m i ni atu r e e s s ays on th e q u i r k s a n d f oi bles of t h e ic ela ndi c peop l e

Get to know the Icelanders

Celebrating Design Bringing style to Iceland since 1975 Epal is a company that is lovingly familiar to all Icelanders. It was founded almost 40 years ago when young Eyj贸lfur P谩lsson returned from studying furniture design in Copenhagen. He soon realised that there were things missing in Iceland for him to carry through his projects in the way he would have chosen. It was this shortage that lead to the founding of Epal.

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ONCE UPON A TIME ... of furniture has then evolved over the years to confirm to the standards of Because the Industrial Revolution started modernity. Epal has always strived to late in Scandinavia, Swedish, Finnish and offer the best of Scandinavian design at Danish designers created modern design any given time. Famous items such as using traditional materials and handcrafts The Egg and Series 7 by back in the early Arne Jakobsen, PH 5 20th century and This is the sort of store by Poul Henningsen that use of easily and timeless giftware you can always walk out available wood by Iittala and Georg types and traditional of feeling like you have Jensen have been craftsmanship is a invested in beauty and style. available in Epal for continuing trend in decades. But the list Scandinavian design. of design items available Scandinavian furniture is extremely long and very interesting. is of a unique and stimulating class and This is the sort of store you can always this widely known common term applies walk out of feeling like you have invested to furniture from Sweden, Denmark, in beauty and style. Norway, Finland and Iceland. This type

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THE VISIONARY Nordic countries in supporting design and designers. With Eyjólfur’s objective through the years a strong, joined effort we has been to increase understanding and could come a long way in respect for good design and quality improving the conditions of products by introducing first class Icelandic designers who are design and offering noted design labels advancing rapidly both home and from Scandinavia and other countries. abroad.” Eyjólfur stepped down But his main passion has always from running Epal in revolved around supporting 2010 and handed Icelandic designers and We offer the torch over to he has strived to assist in his son, Kjartan Páll classical items promoting their work. In Eyjólfsson. Eyjólfur his own words: “I realised that never go out admits that he a long time ago that good of style. still has strong things happen at a slow opinions regarding pace. When you feel like everything things aren’t happening fast remotely related to the running enough it is best to take a deep breath, of Epal but now that the store look at things in perspective and realise is in his son’s capable hands that Iceland has an abundance of well he has more time to work on educated, hardworking people doing his passion: to help young great things and working together in Icelandic designers make their achieving their mutual goals. At Epal, way in the jungle out there. we want to support this in any way we can by helping Icelandic designers put THE STORES their ideas into action.” In an article With this beautiful vision as a guiding Eyjólfur published in 2004 he addresses light, Epal has flourished in the past this point even further: “Up until now four decades and there are three Epal Iceland has been far behind the other stores in Iceland, with the flagship

store located in Skeifan, while also having beautiful store in Kringlan shopping mall. The most recent addition is a store in Harpa, the Reykjavik Conference Hall and Concert Centre. Harpa has since its opening in May 2011 become one of the most renowned architectural works of art in Iceland so it is very fitting for Epal to have a store there and for Icelandic and Scandinavian design to shine and flourish within the walls of our beloved and long-awaited music hall. When asked what era of furniture fashion most impresses him, Eyjólfur replies: “It is hopeless to speak of fashion when it comes to furniture and house accessories and I would rather not do that. We offer classical items that never go out of style. I think it is very important for people to invest in items that can withstand the test of time.”

Epal Harpa Epal Skeifan 6 Epal Kringlan +354 5687733 www.epal.is Epal Skeifan 6, 108 Reykjavík Tel: +354 568 7740 www.epal.is We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 75

Reykjavik City Marathon The Reykjavik City Marathon is celebrating its 32nd year in 2015, having been astablished as early as 1984. Back then it was much different, involving only 214 die-hard souls of seven different nationalities in addition to Icelandic. Today, the race attracts around 15.000 participants every year, thereof about 2.500 of foreign nationalities, and 2014 they collectively managed to raise 84,6 million ISK (550.000 EUR or 700.000 USD) for charity.

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The events include a full marathon and a half marathon, 10 km, relay, 3 km and the children’s LazyTown run, associated with a popular children’s cartoon of the same name which rose to prominence on Nickelodion. The starting line is in the heart of the city center by Íslandsbanki, one of the main sponsors, and you run through residential areas, public parks and by the coast – so it’s a great way to see the city! The race is organized to coincide with the Reykjavik Culture Night, a day-and-night long festival of culture and entertainment

all over Reykjavík which consists of a main stage in the city center, and different venues all over town, from art galleries and cafés to private residences and back yards, in addition to many spontaneous street happenings. The whole thing is then topped off with a fireworks show at the harbour and the whole town turns up to see the glory. It is estimated that 100.000 people attend the festival every year, which considering that the population of the whole city is only 200.000 people, means that practically everyone and their grandmother is there!

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k 11 Reykjaví Laugavegur k ví ja yk Re Kringlan 7 r

Hafnarfjörðu rvegur 64

Reykjavíku

Another One Rides the Bus by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir I took the bus to work today. It might sound mundane but for me, it was a big step. Huge, in fact. This was the third time in my life I have used public transportation within the city limits. Travelling around the country in a bus is different and doesn‘t count. In Iceland there is, or shall I say has been, a clear distinction between the city buses and the ones transporting people between towns/regions. The city bus is called “Strætó”. That is short for “strætisvagn” which in direct translation means “street carriage”. They are big and yellow and they‘ve been around forever. I grew up in a small village east of Reykjavík. When I was a kid it took an hour to get to the capital by car. I had an aunt in town and sometimes I rode the bus to go stay with her. It was easy. The bus always left at the same time from the same location in my hometown and drove to the same place in Reykjavík where my aunt would pick me up (I usually had to wait a while because my aunt has never been good at telling time but waiting builds character according to her so I guess it was a good thing). At one occasion I went to stay with her because I had a dentist‘s appointment. The appointment was during the day, obviously, and my aunt couldn‘t leave work so she suggested that I just go by Strætó. I was twelve and this really didn‘t sound like a big deal. Just go to a particular street corner, wait for a big yellow bus with a particular number on the front window, get on board and then get out at another particular street 80 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

corner close to the dentist‘s office. Easy breezy? One would think so but something went wrong or, to be fair, I did something wrong. I ended up alone in the back of a bus which drove to the outskirts of town where all the other buses are kept. There the bus stopped for 40 mins while the driver ate his lunch, listened to the news and took a short nap. All this he did with me in the back, him being perfectly aware of me being in the back but not saying a word and I was scared and I missed my appointment and it was awful! An occasion for me to use this means of transportation again, didn’t arise until 15 years later. By that time I was living in Reykjavík and had unreasonably, temporarily and very inconveniently lost my driving licence. After having sat at home for the first two days I started thinking that not leaving the house for a few months was probably not going work. I took a deep breath and decided to overcome the fear that had been festering since my childhood Strætó experience. I did everything right, taking the bus really isn’t rocket science but even so, I went all the way in planning the trip from my home to downtown Reykjavík. I knew which street corner to stand on, which bus to take, where to leave that bus to catch the one carrying me to my destination. And as before, I failed. I failed so miserably that I was forced to call a Taxi from a suburb I had never been to before and I wowed NEVER to try and master the mysterious ways of Strætó ever again. Since the economic crash of 2008 we have all watched the price of gas go through the roof and the cost of driving the family car along with it. At the same time there has been a big change in the image and routes

of Strætó. These big yellow enemies of mine now travel all over the country, to Selfoss, Stykkishólmur, Hólmavík, Borgarnes, Vík and Akureyri, to name a few. I watch in awe as my two teenage kids go anywhere they need to without having to bug their mum. I had been working up the courage for a few months and today I took the plunge. Preparing for this turning point in my life included an intense hour of looking at www. bus.is, having the 350 ISK ready in my hand, packing a lunch in case of … you know … and letting both my brother and my boyfriend know in advance what was about to happen for them to be on the alert in case of emergency. My heart was pounding as I sat down at the bus stop. My brother had gone over the procedure of letting the driver of the arriving bus know that I wanted to get on (we went through various stances and hand gestures, no joke) so when I saw my number drive up at an “allure d’enfer” I jumped to the curb faster than a grasshopper, there was no way I was going to screw this up. And lo and behold, the yellow monster pulled over, the door opened and I looked into the eyes of the driver, who was by the way completely unaware of the breakthrough taking place before him. I got on and the trip was absolute heaven, I looked out the window in complete relaxation, feeling so grown up and proud of myself (and admittedly texted ten of my closest friends and family informing them of what I was doing). When the vehicle stopped outside the University of Iceland, where I had indeed intended to get off, I simply could not stop smiling. The moral of the story: Strætó can take you anywhere. It’s comfy, relaxing and nice. Don’t be scared. Just do it.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

bus.is

Travel in Iceland the smart way Take the bus and pay with the app. Pay the bus fare and get ticket info with your smartphone. Find your routes, plan your journey, locate the nearest bus stop and track your bus on a real-time map.

You can only pay with the app in the capital area

Catch the bus to ReykjavĂk from KeflavĂk International Airport Get tickets at the 10/11 shop when you arrive, opposite where you exit customs. The bus stop is close to arrivals and is well marked. From June 7th buses to the airport will stop at arrivals and buses from the airport will stop at departures.

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Your flight toadventure Air Tours / Sightseeing Flights

Day Tours / Adventure Tours

Ice and Fire – Glaciers and Volcanoes

Big Whale Safari and Puffins

A never-to-be-forgotten trip showing the sharply contrasting faces of Iceland’s natural features.

Get an exciting trip by fast RIB boat and witness the biggest creatures on earth and the puffins, ”Clowns of the Ocean”, up close.

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Visit our website eagleair.is for detailed information s on our air tours, day tours and charter service

BookingsandInformation t. +354 562 4200 e. info@eagleair.is w. eagleair.is Location: Behind Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Natura at Reykjavík Airport

Snorkeling in Silfra Fissure Price from: 16.990 ISK

River Rafting

Price from: 12.990 ISK

Go home with a story worth telling! BOOK YOUR ADVENTURE NOW

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Downtown Sales Office – Laugavegur 11 Open every day from 08:00-22:00

Lava Caving Adventure Price from: 16.990 ISK

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www.adventures.is | info@adventures.is | +354 562-7000 | Downtown Reykjavík Sales Office at Laugavegur 11 Rafting • Ice Climbing • Snorkeling • Diving • Glacier Hike • Canoeing • Hiking • Kayaking • Cycling • Surfing • Boat Ride • Hot Spring • Swimming • Climbing Super-Jeep • Caving • Horse Riding • Sightseeing • Snowmobile • Whale Watching • ATV • Incentive • Skiing • Mountain Hut • Camping • Combo Trips

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