Winter 2014
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Experience excitement in Iceland’s pure nature or get a bird’s eye view of the country’s most beautiful places Five Destinations With Year-Round Possibilities Gjögur
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Westman Islands
Westman Islands One of the wonders of nature, surrounded by mountains, islands, volcanoes and seabirds.
Ice and Fire – Glaciers and Volcanoes A never-to-be-forgotten trip showing the sharply contrasting faces of Iceland’s natural features.
Eruption sightseeing flight Fly over the site of Iceland’s ongoing volcanic eruption in Bárðarbunga Volcano.
Day Tours
Vatnajökull Region Witness the majestic power of Europe’s largest glacier or conquer Iceland’s highest peak.
North Iceland Visit Húsavík, the whale watching capital, and witness the natural wonders of North Iceland.
The Westfjords Explore one of the country’s most isolated regions, rich in natural wonders.
Mývatn & Dettifoss
Activity Adventure
Sightseeing tour exploring Lake Mývatn area and the natural wonders of North Iceland.
Boat trip on the famous Glacier Lagoon and an ATV excursion near Europe’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull.
Visit our website eagleair.is for detailed information s on our air tours, day tours and charter service
Bookingsandinformation t. +354 562 4200 e. info@eagleair.is w. eagleair.is Location: Behind Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Natura at Reykjavík Airport
WINTER ADVENTURE DAY TOURS MAKE SURE IT’S MOUNTAIN GUIDES
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Hello and Welcome to Iceland My Destination Reykjavik, a local expert in the global My Destination Network. We specialise in giving out relevant, in-depth and up-todate advice to travellers such as yourself, on our website and in our magazine - this magazine, the one you’re holding in your hands RIGHT NOW. In this Magazine, you will learn about some of the best places to eat, shop, party, and go sightseeing, as well as how to get there, in addition to some practical tips and fun facts about Reykjavík and its surrounding areas. (For starters, check out the next article: “Where to go, What to do and How to get there” - which aims to give you an overview over what there is and how to choose what’s best for you). This magazine aims to give you an insight into all things Reykjavík and the major highlights of the city; however, it is hard to explain to you the magic of Reykjavík on just 76 leaves of paper. To be properly informed about everything during your stay here in Iceland we highly recommend a visit to our website, www.MyDestination.com/Reykjavik. On the My Destination Reykjavik website you will find absolutely everything you could
possibly want to know about Reykjavík. The greatest thing about the My Destination network and what separates it from other travel sites is that it is filled with tips and reviews from locals who really know what they are talking about. My Destination Reykjavik is there for you whether you want to get to know the history of Iceland, learn about the culture, read about the restaurants you plan on eating at, book your accommodation, rent a car, find out What’s On in Reykjavik, browse through photos or load up on useful information. Basically we have everything you need to get informed and make the best of your trip. My Destination is a global travel resource that is powered by a diverse community of hundreds of local experts. The local experts at My Destination Reykjavik are on the ground and have personally experienced what our destination has to offer. We make sure to produce comprehensive information in the form of travel articles, local tips, guides, reviews, videos and panoramic virtual tours. Let My Destination be your tour guide during your stay in Iceland and you will get more out of your experience than you ever thought was possible.
Reykjavik MyDestination Reykjavik Locally Informed, Globally Inspired. www.mydestination.com/reykjavik
Published by MD Reykjavik ehf. Laugavegur 4, 101 Reykjavik. Publisher: Sigurþór Marteinn Tel.: 551-3600. E-mail: whatson@whatson.is Editor: Hjörtur Atli Guðmunds. Geirdal, hjortur@whatson.is, Tel.:847-4153. Layout & design: Stefán Birgir Stefáns, sbs@sbs.is
Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the individual authors. While every effort has been made to ensure the information presented is accurate, prices, times, dates and other information may be subject to change.
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This magazine is published and distributed in exclusive collaboration with Reykjavik Excursions - a leading tour and coach operator in Iceland.
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ACTION PACKED TOURS ICELAND AND GREENLAND Air Iceland is your West Nordic airline, offering scheduled domestic flights and flights from Iceland to the Faroe Islands and Greenland. Choose from a variety of day tour packages in Iceland, and to Greenland, which include flight, bus transfer and guidance. A FEW EXAMPLES
Day Tour
Day Tour
Day Tour
AKUREYRI AND SURROUNDINGS
LAKE MYVATN
WATERFALL DETTIFOSS WINTER
⊲ Akureyri
⊲ Myvatn
⊲ Super Jeep and snowshoe
Day Tour
Day Tour
Day Tour
WORLD OF ICE AND DARKNESS
EASTERN LANDSCAPES
FISHERMAN CULTURE DAY
⊲ Super Jeep and snowshoe
⊲ Egilsstadir and the
⊲ Isafjordur
winter challenge
surrounding area
CONTACT AIR ICELAND OR ANY TRAVEL AGENT FOR RESERVATIONS For more Day Tours, look at our website www.airceland.is websales@airiceland.is tel. +354 570 3030
adventure
“One of the standouts in recent cookbook releases” Iceland Review “...captures the extraordinary otherworldliness of the Icelandic landscape” Lonely Planet Magazine
Into the North
beautifully illustrated cookbook, a culinary saga of Iceland Zest Magazine
“... beautifully illustrated cookbook, a culinary saga of Iceland ...” zest MagazIne
“One of the standouts in recent cookbook releases” Iceland RevIew
“... captures the extraordinary otherworldliness of the Icelandic landscape” lonely Planet MagazIne
The Wonders of Volcanoes by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson You’ll find the Volcano House near the old harbour close to Reykjavík’s city centre. It gives guests a glimpse of how erupting volcanoes and earthquakes can be part of daily life in Iceland. VOLCANO HOUSE CINEMA – DRAMATIC AND INFORMATIVE The Volcano cinema shows striking documentaries on two of the most powerful eruptions in Iceland in recent times. One features the famous natural disaster in the Westman Islands, where a tremendous eruption began after midnight on the 23rd of January 1973. That night nearly 5,000 people had to be evacuated to the mainland, using all boats available on the island. The other film presents Iceland as one of the youngest volcanic islands on earth and documents the eruption in Eyjafjallajökull and others in amazing Emmy nominated footages. This famous eruption caused unprecedented interruptions to air traffic over a large part of Europe. UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH A VOLCANO The Volcano House was opened in 2011 by four siblings, Hörður, Þórir, Svavar and Dagbjört. They grew up together in the Westman Islands, and are therefore intimately familiar with the effects of the eruption in ’73, the subject of one of the documentaries in the cinema. Other members of staff are educated geologists who sometimes take off to go research ongoing volcanoes - most recently to Bárðarbunga in east Iceland. We’ll take you there!
GEOLOGICAL EXHIBITION – YOU MAY TOUCH THE ITEMS! A brief synopsis of Iceland’s geological history and volcanic system are on display in the Volcano House, together with superb photographs of volcanic eruptions and other mysterious aspects of Icelandic nature. A large collection of semi-precious rocks and minerals from around the country are on display. A visit to the exhibition is a one of a kind experience which offers a handson geology experience where guests can handle various samples of pumice, ash and lava from Icelandic volcanoes. Some members of staff are geologists and everyone is well informed if you have any questions or inquiries. ON THE CUTTING EDGE OF ERUPTIONS Due to its particular subject matter, The Volcano House makes sure to stay abreast of current volcanic developments, updating their exhibition with samples from the Bárðarbunga Volcano while the area was still closed to the public, and displaying up-to-date information about all ongoing eruptions. VOLCANO HOUSE BOUTIQUE The Volcano House has a souvenir shop that offers various gifts and artwork connected to Iceland’s volcanoes and nature. It has on offer classic souvenir items that make it possible for you to take home a piece of Iceland. These are items such as lava rocks, pumice, bottles of ash from Eyjafjallajökull, lava jewellery and more.
Volcano House Tryggvagata 11, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 555 1900 www.volcanohouse.is Reykjavik Excursions | 7
OVERVIEW:
WHERE TO GO, WHAT TO DO AND HOW TO GET THERE by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson So you’ve landed in Iceland. What now? As you sit there on your tour bus, or in an information centre, enthusiastically leafing through this magazine, I’m sure you’re starting to realise that the biggest problem with travelling to Iceland is that there are TOO MANY awesome things to do. It’s enough to give you choice anxiety: should I bus around the magnificent sceneries or hang out in the museums? What’s the difference between the Golden Circle and the South Coast? Well put your mind to rest—here’s the quick-and-dirty overview over what is available and how to choose between them. 8 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
In Reykjavik there are roughly two types of experiences: sightseeing tours on the one hand, and activities on the other. In addition, basically every tour has several ways of getting around, for instance you can ride the bus, take a super jeep tour, fly in a helicopter or hire a car. So let’s just break it down one by one. WHERE TO GO: SIGHTSEEING TOURS The Golden Circle is without a doubt the best known day tour in Iceland. What is it? A 300 km loop that usually opens and closes in Reykjavik. It covers three main locations: Þingvellir National Park, the waterfall Gullfoss and the erupting geyser Strokkur. Reykjavik Excursions, for instance, has this tour scheduled every day of the week, several times a day, all year round, with guidance in English, German, French and Scandinavian. The question is: Why is it so popular? The fact is that there is a number of amazing places to see on day trips from Reykjavík, each with their own characteristics and amazing sights. Part of the reason the Golden Circle is a big deal, I
suspect, ironically, is because a lot of people go there. That being said, there’s a reason it’s popular, since there are some pretty unique things to be seen there: Þingvellir National Park is unique in two ways: it was the site of the Icelandic Viking Parliament from the year 930 to 1798, and it’s one of the best places in the country to see the tectonic drift—where the earth splits apart by about an inch a year. The Geysir Geothermal Area is unique in that it’s home to basically the only erupting hot spring in Iceland, Strokkur. And Gullfoss (the Golden Waterfall), is definitely one of the larger and more beautiful falls in Iceland. Whole day/Half day? The Golden Circle is basically a 6-hour excursion, but taking a whole-day tour usually adds something amazing for a relatively small increase in price. OTHER SIGHTSEEING TOURS FROM REYKJAVÍK There is a large number of destinations to day-trip from Reykjavik, each with their unique characteristics.
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
© Reykjavik Excursion
The South Coast is particularly good for waterfalls and black-sand beaches. The route takes you between a magnificent mountain range on one hand and the deep blue sea on the other—it’s a very scenic drive. You will see waterfalls Seljalandsfoss (our famous “walkbehind” wonderfall), and the huge Skógafoss. It also offers the beach by Vík, with cool rock formations and basalt columns. Reykjanes is the peninsula on which the international airport in Keflavik resides, so if you’ve ridden the bus to Reykjavik, you’ve already got a taste of it. This area is one of the most geologically active places in Iceland. It has a number of geothermal areas and fumaroles, relatively fresh lava fields, rich history, quaint little folklore and, of course, the Blue Lagoon.
There are countless other places you could day trip from Reykjavik, but these encompass the major directions and areas you might choose to go. WHAT DO I DO WHEN I GET THERE? ACTIVITIES AROUND REYKJAVÍK Now we’ve covered the major places to go sightseeing, but what if you don’t just want to enjoy the scenery? What if you want to do something interesting and exciting while you’re there? Well, luckily there is no shortage of things to do in and around Reykjavík. There are too many to make a comprehensive list, so we recommend talking to a tourist information agent, however, some of the more exciting things are included in the box below.
GETTING AROUND IN COMFORT AND STYLE - HOW TO GET THERE So now you know where to go and what to do, but how do you get there? In general, for day trips, you have the choice of a Helicopter, a Superjeep excursion, a bus tour or renting a car. For most places, you will have most or all of these options, depending on the season and the particular conditions. Helicopters are of course awesome, so if your budget can handle it, it’s an amazing way to see the scenery and get around. They also have shorter, more cost-effective trips for those who just want to get a feel for it and get some excitement in their life. Superjeeping is the more luxurious of the ground-based options, and they generally take you places where normal vehicles can’t (or shouldn’t) go. The bus is a classic way to get around— and as opposed to self-drive, you don’t have to worry about finding the way—while the tour guide tells you everything you want to know. Car Hire, or Self-drive is often the most cost-effective for two or more people and offers more freedom, but then you don’t have the service of a driver or a guide.
The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is directly north of Reykjavik. It has a number of quiet little towns which fill up with fishermen in the summer, the largest of which is Stykkishólmur—a beautiful, picturesque little town with many historic wooden houses. Finally, the coastline is smattered with rock formations and interesting natural phenomena. We deal with Snæfellsnes more extensively in the article “Journey to the Center of the Earth and More,” on page 22. © Reykjavik Excursion
HORSEBACK RIDING: Anywhere, for instance in the Lava Fields of Reykjanes.a HOT SPRING BATHING: Everywhere - the Blue La-goon is recommended. WHALE WATCHING: This is great to do from the Reykjavík Old Harbour. NORTHERN LIGHTS HUNTING: Outside the city, wher-ever the lights are and the sky is clear. See our article I Wish They Could Go On Forever. SNOWMOBILING ON A GLACIER: This you can do both near the Golden Circle, on the South Coast and in the Snæfellsnes peninsula. HIKING ON A GLACIER: This is easiest to do on the South Coast. SNORKELLING/DIVING: Most people do this at Þingvellir National Park though you can go any number of places. CAVING: Anywhere, but Reykjanes is good. We’ll take you there!
Reykjavik Excursions | 9
The Icelandic Horse A Faithful Servant and a Loyal Companion
by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir Someone once said that there are only two ways to properly explore Iceland; from the air and on horseback. All the SUVowners in the country will probably beg to differ but there is at least some truth in this. THE BACKSTORY Thousands of people in Iceland keep horses simply for the pleasure of riding and enjoying the companionship of these wonderful animals. The popularity of travelling on horseback has been growing continuously and Icelandic horsemen are considerate and respectful when it comes to both nature and their horses. The history of the Icelandic horse goes back to the country’s settlement in the late 9th century and the breed has remained pure for over a thousand years. There is and has always been only one breed of horses here – The Icelandic Horse. For centuries the horse was the only means of transportation and also the most important working animal, through the years it has been referred to as “our most essential servant”. Today there are close to 80.000 horses in Iceland, an incredible 10 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
number for a nation of 300.000 people. The horse is used for riding, travelling and competition purposes and still plays a practical role in the annual sheep and horse round-ups in the highlands. A FIRST CLASS RIDING CENTER Íshestar is a 30 year old company and one of the most well-established horse rentals in Iceland. They provide scheduled day tours, country side tours and highland tours up to 10 days long with airport transfer, full board and accommodation. This is the real thing. The Íshestar Riding Centre is unique here in Iceland with first class facilities set in the beautiful surroundings just outside Reykjavík and endless possibilities in riding, hiking and other outdoor activities. The company also offers boat trips, jeep safari and horse shows on demand and their Riding Centre includes a spacious restaurant with a fully licenced bar. TOURS ON HORSEBACK The scheduled tours vary in shapes and sizes from half hour tours for children to ten days of riding in the highlands. The many various day tours include riding in the wonderful surroundings at Hafnarfjörður and other locations but also mixing and matching horse riding with a visit to the Blue Lagoon, whale watching, biking, hiking and seeing the Northern Lights, to name a few. For longer trips, the country side and
highland tours offers many irresistible possibilities, I urge you to visit Íshestar’s website to see what I mean. I myself have had the pleasure of exploring the Icelandic highlands on horseback on several occasions. There is absolutely nothing like it. If you have the remotest interest in horses (and honestly, even if you don’t) and are ready to explore the highlands of our beautiful volcanic island, I guarantee you that Íshestar will take you on the adventure of a lifetime.
Íshestar Sörlaskeið 26, 221 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 555 7000 www.ishestar.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Carrying on the Tradition A Knife at a Time One of the various entrepreneurs who have made themselves comfortable with their business at the Álafoss dell is the knife maker, Páll Kristjánsson, though everybody calls him Palli. Both he and his knifes are one of a kind. Upon entering his workshop, I was greeted (rather harshly) by a huge German shepherd. Of course he was already tied up and Palli called him down instantly so I had nothing to worry about. But there was something rather special in meeting a knife maker for the first time, surrounded by blades, wood, reindeer antlers and a dog the size of my car. Palli is the only knife maker in Iceland and to be honest, I doubt that they make knifes like his anywhere else in the world either. The blades vary in being hand-made copies of Iron Age or Viking Age designs from Denmark, Damascus steel, or factory-produced blades from other parts of Scandinavia. And each
handle or hilt is hand-made by Palli from reindeer antlers, sheep and cow bone and hoof, whale tooth and bone, and 12 millionyear-old trees (brown coal or fossils). He also uses various Icelandic stones and hikes both the highlands and lowlands of Iceland in search of materials; this man truly is the real thing. Not only that, but he also fashions the sheaths for the knives and they are no less evocative. Using leather, tree and skin from cow, seal and fish, he creates a unique and fitting holster for each knife. Often, like with
the handles, they are intricately patterned with Viking symbols and carvings. But you can ask for any writing or pattern. It is my solemn belief that when it comes to his labours of love, this man can do anything.
Knife maker - Palli Kristjansson Álafossvegur 29, 270 Mossfellsbær Tel: +354 899 6903 www.kitchenknifes.is
www.knifemaker.is
www.kitchenknives.is
Álafoss The Small Dell with the Big History
by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir North of Reykjavik is a small town called Mosfellsbær. It is one of the smaller municipalities surrounding the capital, inhabited by just under 9000 people. It differs from the other suburban towns in being detached from the urban area, although Reykjavík keeps moving closer and closer. HOW IT USED TO BE In the heart of Mosfellsbær, up the Varmá river (e. the Warm River) is a small village within the village It is called Álafosskvosin, which in English can be referred to as “The Dell by the Waterfall of the Eels“. Yes, as cute as it gets. Because of the warmth of the river, this location spawned the first industrial cluster in Iceland in 1896. The river was utilised to clean and colour wool, which spawned the founding of the company Álafoss, which later became the main exporter of Icelandic woollen clothing and an empire as such, at least on an Icelandic scale. All of the buildings that make up this little gem of a dell originally belonged to and served the wool industry in one way or the other, but today they are part of a society made up by a coffee house, a recording studio, a carpenter’s workshop, a knife maker and the store named after the original wool exporters, Álafoss. HOW IT IS TODAY In addition to its magical location, the Álafoss store is an adventure in itself. Located in the old factory house that was used to drive the mills of the wool factory, it offers everything your heart could possibly desire when it comes to Icelandic woollen products. From
the traditional Icelandic “lopapeysa” (woollen sweater), handmade by knitters from all over the country, in all the colours and patterns they can think of, to high fashion woollen clothing, Icelandic jewellery, gift merchandise and souvenirs, this is a store that absolutely needs to be on your bucket list. Finally, if you are a knitter yourself, the store offers a handsome selection of knitting wool yarn of all types and colours plus recipes. After a visit to Álafoss, all you have to do is get started! MAKE IT SIMPLE But what truly makes Álafoss so magical is the history. On display at the store you will find a selection of old knitting machinery and photographs from the early days, and looking out of this 110 year old factory house, overseeing the Varmá River just outside the window, it is easy to imagine the power and foresight that turned this lovely little dell into a busy industrial site, buzzing with life and big dreams. Taking a walk outside, you can almost hear the voices of children spending their early 20th century summers diving into the warm river swimming pool. Life was simple back then. When you visit Álafoss, it becomes simple again.
Álafoss Alafossvegur 23, 270 Mosfellsbær Tel: +354 566 6303 www.alafoss.is 12 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Álafoss - Main Store Álafossvegi 23 270 Mosfellsbær
Álafoss - City Center Laugavegi 8 101 Reykjavík
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From City Lights to Super Jeeps by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir & Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson
Have you ever been on top of a glacier? You won’t believe this magical realm of white plains above the world, and what better way to explore it than the excitement and comfort of a snowmobile. Snowmobiles are great fun and easy to operate. All the Mountaineers’ snowmobiles are two seated touring sleds with hand warmers and a high windshield. Participants can choose between a double and a single ride, so just stick the kids on the back seat and get going!
The Mountaineers of Iceland offer day tours where 1 hour of snowmobiling is included: The Express Activity Tour and the Pearl Tour. The Pearl Tour takes you on the Golden Circle, but with a snowmobiling twist. This tour allows visitors to get in touch with some of Iceland’s most famous and exciting natural phenomena and add a glacial adventure to it. It takes you to all the must-sees; Þingvellir National Park, Geysir hot spring, Gullfoss (The Golden Waterfall) and then they kick the action into high gear to get even
closer to Iceland’s nature and go for a snowmobiling tour on Langjökull, Iceland’s second largest glacier. If you have a knack for adventure and the need for speed, this day trip offers Iceland‘s best and then some. To be the operator of an open motorized vehicle on your way up to the second largest glacier of a volcanic island will introduce you to a feeling to which there is no comparison. Mind you, everybody is allowed to go at their own pace to start with and if you would rather double up with your partner and sit in the back, the experience will still provide you with something to share with your grandchildren. If you are on a tight schedule while staying in our beautiful country, the Express Activity Tour might be more suitable for you. It takes you to Langjökull glacier or a snow area in the mountains. Once there, you will embark upon an exhilarating one hour snowmobiling tour across endless white fields of snow. This is a great way to combine the experience of some awe-inspiring scenery and an adrenaline-filled activity.
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Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
To the Mountaineers, safety is the biggest issue, so just remember to bring your driver‘s licence. Everyone engaged in their activity service operations have extensive experience in the tourism industry and in activity operations and the strictest safety standards are always em-ployed. All participants are provided with necessary gear like warm overalls, helmets, boots and gloves. BUT THAT’S JUST THE BEGINNING. The Mountaineers offer a wide variety of tours including jeep excursions, combinations with other activities and more! In addition to the Pearl Tour and the Express Activity Tour, there is, for instance, the Þórsmörk & the South Coast which takes you, as the name implies, to the south coast of Iceland and to Þórsmörk. On the way you will see the waterfall Seljalandsfoss, before heading north to the highlands of Þórsmörk—a virtually untouched wilderness of magnificent mountains and unbridged rivers. It’s a wild ride! The Northern Lights Hunt takes you in the comfort of a super jeep to hunt for the northern lights, wherever they may be seen. The agile trucks can go where most other vehicles can’t, and the drivers are experienced and adept at finding the best places to see the lights. With the Northern Lights and Snowmobiling at the Top of the World, you can combine the best of both, riding your vehicle across the milky white pastures in the dead of night while the Aurora Borealis play up above. This is all in addition to a myriad of day tours like the Monster Quest, which takes you to sites connected to legends and folklore, Quad Biking in the wilderness, and the Glacier & Desert Tour to Western Iceland. SUPER JEEPS AND TRUCKS The Mountaineers own and operate a number of super jeeps and trucks which have been specially modified to get to glaciers and other remote areas by the rugged mountain tracks of the highlands, inaccessible by normal cars. Their super jeeps have extra-large tires, 38 to 44
inches, so they can get their guests to areas that no other vehicles can. All the Mountaineers’ Jeeps have radio transceivers for communication between cars and a GPS Satellite Navigation System so whether you want to go on a scheduled trip or design your own Icelandic adventure, you are in good hands. The Mountaineers recently upgraded a large part of their truck fleet to “super luxury”. They have a new 8X8 and a 10X10 truck, both specially designed based on the Mountaineers’ extensive experience of Iceland’s mountain roads, and equipped with very most comfortable seats, heat management, speaker system, wi-fi and the very cutting edge in safety equipment. They are especially adapted to Icelandic conditions and are capable of going where other buses can’t go, they are perfect for a group of adventurers, family reunions, bachelor parties. The 8X8 Luxury Super Jeep seats 49 people and is specially made out of a MAN-truck’s 460 horsepower engine and driver’s compartment, the chassis of a German army truck and the passenger
We’ll take you there!
space of a bus. It is 14 meters (45 ft) long, 3.8 meters (12 ft.) tall, 2.5 meters (8 ft.) wide and it drives on 58 inch tires, has integrated guidance, and facilities for serving soup and coffee. The custom built 10X10 truck is made of the driver’s compartment and chassis of a GINAF 10X10 truck, and a DAF bus. It measures 13.6 meters long (44 ft.), 3.8 meters tall (12 ft.) and 2.55 meters (8 ft.) wide, drives on 54 inch tires, is powered by a 480 horsepower MAN engine and has allwheel-drive. They are about the largest conceivable street-legal vehicles you could possibly fashion in Iceland and they can get to some amazing places you wouldn’t dream of going in a normal car. We definitely recommend the Mountaineers for anyone who is looking to take a step out of ordinary life, and experience the
Mountaineers of Iceland Skútuvogur 12e, 104 Reykjaík Tel: +354 580 9900 www.mountaineers.is Reykjavik Excursions | 15
H recomighly on Tri mended pAdv isor
Another world between two worlds
by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson
In the summer of 2013, I found myself in the position of having to impress a young lady. She came to Iceland, my homeland, to visit me, and I wanted to show her the very best of the country. So where did I take her, you ask? Well, to snorkel in near-freezing water, of course! As the Scuba motto goes: Cold is Just a State of Mind. It’s not altogether as preposterous as it sounds at first: the Snorkelling tour equips you with a dry suit and thermals to wear under them. Aside from the sudden pang of cold I felt when I first jumped in, the only place I got cold was a thin strip of skin between my snorkel and my dry-suit hoodie. And it’s totally worth it: We dove into Silfra, which is a tectonic fissure resulting from the earth’s crust slowly pulling apart by about an inch a year, so you’ve got Europe on one side and America on the other. The water in Silfra is some of the purest in the world, coming from a glacier nearby and filtered through volcanic rock for about 50 years(!) (imagine the coal-filter water pitcher you keep in your fridge, only the scale of a small city). It’s so clear that on a good day the visibility is greater underwater than above it. And the colours! Because the visibility is so great, the light filters through an incredibly large distance underwater, and everything takes on an eerie blue glow like nothing you’ve ever seen before. The snorkelling suits are rather buoyant and there is a very mild current in the fissure, so all you have to do is float along at your leisure and enjoy the colours and ever-changing scenery along the way.
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To top it all off, Silfra sits in the middle of Þingvellir National Park, a beautiful, historic UNESCO world heritage site and the seat of the ancient Viking Parliament from the year 920 to the year 1800. It’s also one of the best places to see the fissures of the tectonic divide between America and Europe, so it’s not strange that this is where you do the snorkelling. For those with a PADI licence, it’s also possible to dive in the fissure, which obviously gives you more manoeuvrability in where to go and the option of seeing countless incredible sights. COLD IS JUST A STATE OF MIND Ok, I know what you’re thinking: Reggie, you’re a large, Icelandic, incredibly handsome and talented man, you’re probably not so sensitive to the cold. But how will I feel? Well first of all, thanks for the compliment, you insightful and perceptive stranger. But more importantly, like I said I was trying to impress a girl, a petite girl from Georgia (the state, not the country) who was decidedly not impervious to the cold. The worst that happened to her was that her hands got pretty cold, which will happen sometimes, but the point is she thought it was totally worth it. The experience of being underwater in a
tectonic fissure, seeing the crazy colours and doing something unusual you will remember for the rest of your life, and even yes, the feeling of getting a little cold, when your whole life is lived with air-conditioning in the summer and central heating in the winter – it lets you get out of yourself and feel alive, if only for a brief and glorious few hours. SCUBA ICELAND Scuba Iceland was started by Finni, Finnbjörn Finnbjörnsson, one of the most experienced divers in Iceland. He has been diving since the early 1990s, instructing since 1998 and amongst his many qualifications and decorations he was the first PADI Public Safety instructor in Scandinavia. He heads up a team of highly qualified and experienced guides who are relaxed, personal and professional. Scuba offers other tours around Reykjavík and Iceland, including combinations with diving and the Golden Circle, Northern Lights or Fontana Spa, excursions to the unique Geothermal Chimney “Strýtan” in Eyjafjörður in the East, 2-day packages and more. If you want to know more, check out their website or ask about them in a tourist information office, I definitely recommend them for an experience of adventure you won’t soon forget!
Scuba Iceland Fiskislóð 26, Reykjavík Tel: +354 892 1923 www.scuba.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Some places have a certain something about them. People just want to be there. And if you are lucky you get to spend some time at one of those places. Atli Bollason shared an apartment at Ingólfsstræti 8a few years ago with two friends. He never knew who would be there or what would happen when he got home. Sometimes it was a café, sometimes a cinema and after the bars closed there would maybe be a line outside. People just showed up. Ingólfsstræti 8 Skál fyrir þér! Léttöl
I wish they could go on forever by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir
Having been born and raised in Iceland, I have seen my fair share of Northern Lights. That does not change the fact that when they come out, I wish they would go on forever. They hypnotise you and put a spell on you. They make you want more and more; you can never get enough. So I understand why people travel from all over the world to see them. They are indescribable, and there is nothing like them.
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THE PHENOMENA The Aurora Borealis is a natural light display in the sky, caused by the collision of energetic charged particles with atoms in the high altitude atmosphere. If that means nothing to you, you’re not alone: when I was a child and asked what they were made of, the response I received from my parents was electricity in the sky. That kept me quiet for a while, but there is more to it, as I discovered when I got older. The charged particles originate in the magnetosphere and solar wind and, on Earth, are directed by the Earth’s magnetic field into the atmosphere. But for all intents and purposes, let’s just say they’re magical, and beautiful.
The Aurora Borealis is named after the Roman goddess of dawn, Aurora, and the Greek name for the north wind, Boreas, though the Cree Indians call this phenomenon The Dance of the Spirits and in medieval Europe, the auroras were commonly believed to be a sign from God. When I was a kid, I thought so too. The Northern Lights have a southernhemisphere counterpart called the Aurora Australis (or the southern lights), which has features that are almost identical to the Aurora Borealis and changes simultaneously with changes in the northern auroral zone. Aurorae also occur on other planets and similar to the Earth’s aurora; they are visible close to the
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planet’s magnetic poles. I would love to see the southern ones at some point in my life, but to see aurorae on other planets will probably have to wait. REYKJAVIK EXCURSIONS NORTHERN LIGHTS TOURS For those of you who, like me, want to make do with the Earth for now, the northern lights can be elusive and hard to find. As such, proper care needs to be taken to ensure the highest likelihood of a sighting. There are several things you can do to greatly improve those odds, actually, so pay close attention. Northern Lights have three mortal enemies, all of whom greatly affect the extent to which one can see them. Avoid those and you should be relatively well off. Firstly there is the dreaded cloud cover. It’s quite difficult to see the lights through a thick carpet of clouds, so a clear sky is preferable. Do keep in mind though, that a local expert would be helpful there, as while you might see thick clouds right above you, Iceland is a…volatile…country when it comes to weather conditions, so don’t give up hope beforehand! The second enemy is city lights. While you might occasionally see the lights within city limits, I can assure you, they’d be much brighter and much more impressive without those lights. So going out of town is almost essential to viewing! The last mortal enemy of the northern lights is one that’s easily avoidable most of the time: daylight. A general rule in the world is that during night time, the daylight goes away. Alas, however, that’s
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not the case in summertime Iceland! As a result, the so-called “Aurora Season” is generally recognised as being from September to Mid-April. This is the season you’ll want to aim for when going aurora hunting. Now it’s one thing to know what to avoid and what to seek, but a whole other thing actually doing it. As it turns out, Reykjavik Excursions has an extensive experience in light-guiding, knowing exactly where and when to look for the ever impressive northern lights. These guys will ensure your sighting chances are maximised, and have in fact organised different tours, that should cater to everyone’s needs and wants. NORTHERN LIGHTS TOUR This is the classic one, available daily during the Aurora Season, the Northern Lights Tour is hugely popular, tried and tested. During the 3-4 hours, an auroraexpert takes you to the best spots for a maximum chance of seeing the lights, altering the route based on forecast and conditions. On the off-chance that no lights are seen, you’ll be welcomed to join the tour again, free of charge. HIGHLANDS NORTHERN LIGHTS TOUR On this tour, Reykavik Excursions visit Langjökull, Iceland’s second largest glacier. There they meet up with a specially modified 8x8 Monster Truck that will bring you to one of the most unique places you will ever find, the Langjökull glacier area. There you will learn about the Northern Lights, the glacier itself and the local nature along with some local stories. On
the glacier, you will experience driving through complete and utter darkness, take a short walk and experience the glacial nature. Upon arrival at the glacier hut, you will enjoy some light refreshments. To experience Langjökull glacier at night is truly remarkable. It is the perfect way to experience the spectacular Icelandic nature, the fresh glacial air and darkness only to be found on such remote locations. WARM BATHS & COOL LIGHTS! This is an incredibly cosy tour, offering the perfect mixture of relaxation and northern lights hunting. We start off at the Laugarvatn Fontana open air geothermal baths and spa, for a complete rejuvenation of body and soul. There you’ll enjoy a local style buffet to ensure no one is hungry and the batteries are charged for the light show of a lifetime, as the Reykjavik Excursions guides take you on a tour of the area, before dropping you off at your hotel. Keep in mind that the lights are, as mentioned, quite elusive, so sightings cannot be guaranteed. Additionally, make sure to bring warm clothes, a swimsuit and a towel for the best experience! HORSE THEATER AND NORTHERN LIGHTS - THE LEGENDS OF SLEIPNIR Due to the notoriously fickle nature of the Northern Lights, it’s great to make the most of your night by combining it with the fantastically innovative Horse Theater and a light dinner, followed by the Northern Lights Hunt. That way, you’re guaranteed to see something fantastic, even if the lights aren’t cooperating!
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“The purest form of power comes from a mind at peace” The history of visual arts does not go back many centuries in Iceland, like it does in many other European countries. Having been busy surviving cold, volcanic eruptions and famine, the Icelandic artist as such did not emerge until in the 19th century. Since then, the land of ice and snow has produced talented and productive artists in many different fields and we Icelanders pride ourselves of our interesting and diverse art life. One of our most famous contemporary painters, and the most productive one for sure, goes by the name Tolli.
THE BOY WITH THE PAINT BRUSHES Born in 1953, he was one of five high spirited brothers. As you can imagine, there was never a dull moment when he was growing up. His full name is Þorlákur Kristinsson Morthens (pronouncing it is a challenge, I dare you to try) and he has been painting since he was a boy. When the other kids were playing soccer, he played with pencils and brushes. His parents both dabbled with painting so it was easy for Tolli to get the necessary equipment and the only subject he
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excelled in at school was arts & crafts. That does not mean, by any means, that he was a quiet and tranquil child, although we might picture him that way with the paint brush in his hands. On the contrary, he has always been a rebel. In his teenage years, Tolli opted out of society and rebelled against anything and everything. He became a poster child for the angry young Icelander of the ‘70s. Among other things, he spent time in the self-proclaimed autonomous neighbourhood of Christiania in Denmark,
worked as a fisherman on Icelandic boats and as a lumberjack in Norway, as well as travelling as a seasonal worker all around the Icelandic shoreline. But when Tolli was 24 years old, he decided that enough was enough and joined the Icelandic Academy of the Arts. He said to himself: “If I can channel into painting but only a fraction of the energy that I give to the capitalists running the fishing companies, I can make a living as an artist.” In the years 1982 – 1992 he produced twenty two private exhibitions, which is quite impressive by
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any standard. In that short period of time, Tolli became one of the best known young artist in the country. A REBEL WITH A CAUSE Tolli tells me that in his youth, he rebelled against the entire world. He arranged events to protest militant occupancy in Iceland and formed a movement against nuclear weapons. He was what is commonly known as “an angry young man”. Early in our conversation I discovered that his negative energy has now been channelled into something completely different, that being a peaceful mind. The angry young man has turned into a calm and serene artist who teaches meditation and writes books on love, peace and charity. To Tolli’s mind, he tells me, love is a megapower. It is part of our chemistry and an entity which effects the neurological pathways in our bodies. He says that we need to feel at ease in order to be happy and he spurns the old myth that art comes from suffering. It is the need, he says, the craving, which makes artists successful. To his mind, drive, courage and honesty are the key art-ingredients and suffering has nothing to do with it. I think he might be right. According to Tolli, to be a winner is to be constructive, always and everywhere, and he claims that life is hard. Meditation is a tool, he says, which helps people create the pathway towards acceptance. The purest form of power comes from a mind at peace, Tolli says with passion in his voice. It is hard to imagine that this zenminded man used to scream at society from the top of his lungs. ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE Tolli is a very emotional and spontaneous artist. According to him, his works of art can be regarded as an honest journal of how he was feeling at the time he painted the piece. This former rebel, now meditator and mediator, claims the world of the common people has been split into small consumption units and that all solidarity has been destroyed. To his mind, if we nourish the good, we will gain the power to change that. We just need to be patient and keep our eyes on the goal. If we all join in love and compassion, miracles can happen. The beauty in his views and concepts is simple and if you are lucky enough to meet him at his gallery, this will become instantly apparent. You will discover, as I did, that there is a strangely serene power surrounding him which is also to be found in his paintings. Tolli’s style and subjects have changed and developed through the years. His older pieces included, among We’ll take you there!
other things, powerful paintings of strange creatures and animals. In later years he has moved towards different subjects, including projections in ponds, volcanic eruptions, deserted farms and the fog. His attitude towards light has also progressed. In the early days, light was just a tool. Now it is the core of his works. It has been rather uncommon for Icelandic painters to have their own galleries and not many of them do. Tolli recently decided to break out of that tradition and started a gallery of his own at Laugavegur
in downtown Reykjavik. Needless to say, the gallery has been a success and on December 1st Tolli opens a new and improved gallery at Hólmaslóð 2, in the old Reykjavik harbour area. To his mind, it is extremely important for the customers to see the world which the painter creates with his art, and to see his work in an artistic context. Whether you are a virgin or a veteran in the world of painting as an artform, I can assure you that a trip to Tolli’s gallery will be a trip to remember.
Reykjavik Excursions | 21
A Journey to the Center of the Earth and more Taking a glimpse of the wonders of Snæfellsnes Peninsula
by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson Snæfellsnes has everything and a bag of chips! In Snæfellsnes you can see a microcosm of all Iceland in a convenient Reykjavik Excursions day trip from Reykjavik. It has majestic mountain views, black-sand beaches, and a volcano and glacier rolled into one (a Volclacier? A Glacano?) and scattered around the scenery you find quaint little towns with interesting histories. The magnificent sceneries in this area is probably why it was used as the backdrop for Ben Stiller’s recent movie The Secret Life of Walter Mitty. SNÆFELLSJÖKULL – THE ENTRANCE TO THE CENTRE OF THE EARTH. One of the most interesting things on Snæfellsnes is without a doubt Snæfellsjökull glacier, which sits atop an active volcano at the tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. The volcano is 700.000 years old and has erupted about 20 times since the last ice age.
ages past to compete in strength and the heaviest one is 154 kg! (339 pounds!)
In his book a “Journey to the center of the earth” Jules Verne used Snæfellsjökull as the point of entry through which Lidenbrock and his team start their journey.
ARNARSTAPI Arnarstapi is a long-abandoned fishing village which comes to life in the summertime, with fishermen sailing from the harbour and people spending their summers in local cottages. It has a camp ground, an inn and a restaurant. Here you can hike around the surrounding area and enjoy the mind-blowing rock formations of the coastlines from the observation deck to which the RE tour will take you.
In the park, among other things, you will find Djúpalónssandur black-sand beach. There you can test your strength with the three rocks, Strong, Full-Strong and Half-Strong. These were used by sailors of
STYKKISHÓLMUR Stykkishólmur is a picturesque and beautiful fishing town with only 1100 inhabitants, but this doubles in the
summertime with all the fishermen and tourists. It serves as the center of transportation for the area – it’s where you catch the ferry for Flatey Island and Brjánslækur in the Westfjords. The town has many wooden houses from the 19th and early 20th century. The oldest of these is the Norwegian House, built in 1832, which now houses the local folk museum. Stykkishólmur also has a volcano museum and a swimming pool, among other things. That’s just a few of the countless interesting things to see, not even mentioning the scattered little farms, the area’s rich history (the peninsula was where the Saga of the Icelanders, one of the main historical sources of Iceland was written, as well as being the setting of the ancient Laxdæla), the magnificent Gerðuberg basalt columns, mountains like Helgafell and Hólahólar(the Hill-hills), and many other things. To learn more, book a trip and see for yourself! Tours of the whole area and all the sights are available through Reykjavik Excursions.
Reykjavik Excursions BSI Bus Terminal, Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 564 4776 www.re.is 22 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
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Rustic Luxury under the Glacier by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir
Búðir is located on the southern part of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. It used to be a place of commerce during the settlement, and it became a trading centre in the 17th century. It was popular in the old days to base fishingboats at Búðir and a hundred years ago this was one of the best places in the country to hunt sharks. Today, Búðir is the seat of one of the beautiful countryside hotels in Iceland.
NEW ON TOP OF OLD The hotel sits in a lava field on the westernmost tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. It was originally built as a reconstructive addition to an old apartmentstore complex in Búðir. The first guests arrived in the summer of 1948. Since then, the running of the hotel and restaurant has been in the hands of many, with different emphasis at different times. Hotel Búðir has always been renowned for great food and the unique aura of power and mystery delivered by Snæfellsjokull glacier to those who stay in its vicinity. The hotel was rebuilt in the years 2001-2003 after having been completely destroyed in a fire in February 2001. The new hotel was constructed in the spirit of the old building and specialists agree that the designers did and outstanding job in maintaining the atmosphere of the old hotel. It is safe to say that every single one of the 28 rooms and suites is a work of art. BABY, WILL YOU MARRY ME? In my dreams, this hotel is where I would get married. The main dining room sits 80 people and the church sits 70 people, but some lovely alternatives in the beautiful weather that Snæfellsnes peninsula sometimes has to offer would be the beach or the lava field or the harbor at the hotel. In the eyes of many of my friends and family, Búðir is one of their favorite places in Iceland and for good reason.
JOURNEY TO THE CENTER OF ALL GOOD THINGS The sights and wonders surrounding this beautiful oasis of good food and natural beauty are endless. Exceptional beaches, endless lava, seals swimming in the North-Atlantic and a hidden hot spring you can bathe in are just a few of the wonders you’ll encounter. But ever watchful is Snæfellsjokull glacier. This natural work of art is where Jule Verne placed his book, Journey to the Center of the Earth and the glacier is believed to have great supernatural powers. To spend time in this spectacular landscape in a luxury hotel with supreme food and drink is something I think everybody should indulge themselves with at least once in their lives. It does not matter if you are an Icelander or a citizen of a foreign country on your first visit to our lovely island, visiting Hotel Búðir is always going to be the experience of a lifetime.
Hótel Búðir Búðir, 365 Snæfellsnes Tel: +354 435 6700 www.hotelbudir.is 24 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
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A Wrist-Work of Art
by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir
What springs to mind when you think of watchmakers? Do the words Swiss, old and tradition leap up there by any chance? I thought so. Now, think again because there is a new boy in town and he‘s proven that timeless innovation, superior craftsmanship and exquisite precision can be achieved even if your heritage does not include chocolate and the Alps. When Sigurður Gilbertsson, in association with his friends Grímkell Sigurþórsson and Júlíus Heiðarsson, approached his father Gilbert Ó. Guðjónsson, a watchmaker of 40 years, with the idea of them designing and producing their own collection, his father laughed. Today JS Watch co. has five collections and sells around 350 watches per year. When Gilbertsson‘s father stopped laughing back in 2005 and this beautiful father and son venture became a reality they created their own brand and made 100 watches to begin with, to test the waters so to speak. Within 6 months they were completely sold out. This was back in the day when the Icelandic financial bubble was growing at the speed of light and almost every man, woman and child in the country was splashing money around like there was no tomorrow. Soon after the launch of their first collection, JS Watch made preparations for a follow up line
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but then the financial environment started to change. The Icelandic krona, a local currency used in Iceland since the beginning of time, started weakening and in a short period of time it became three times more expensive to import the foreign-made components, the country’s currency became worthless and for a small manufacturer operating in the world market this was a huge problem. But there are blessings in everything and when the Icelandic economy crashed, along came the tourists. People from all over the world flocked to this curious volcanic island in the North because it had for the first time become affordable for ordinary people to visit. More importantly for JS Watch co; it became affordable for your average tourist to buy high quality design watches. They had an unrivalled high quality product at unbeatable prices for foreign visitors. “People had been desperate to come to Iceland but it was just too expensive,” explains Gilbertsson. “Once they discovered their
money would go a lot further the country became full of tourists. It has been great for business and not just in terms of sales. We not only take pride in our watches, but also our customer care. It’s very important for us that the people who buy our timepieces know the level of perfection we try and achieve. Although we aim to get that message across on our international sales, nothing can beat talking to someone face to face and welcoming them into our workshop.” Speaking of their workshop, among the many happy watch owners on their list of clientele are men such as Quentin Tarantino, Viggo Mortensen and the Dalai Lama, not to mention the entire Icelandic Coastguard. JS Watch co. is the Coastguard’s official supplier of watches and the offshore emergency service exclusively uses the Sif North Atlantic Rescue Timer, which says it all regarding the brand’s reputation for durability and accuracy. So dropping in on Laugavegur 62 for a warm welcome and a tour of the exquisite watch collections of JS Watch co should without question be part of your Reykjavík tour, it’s the chance of a lifetime to get the watch of a lifetime.
JS Watch co. Laugavegur 62, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 4100 www.jswatch.com Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
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A Food Designer with a Passion for Raw Foods
by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir
To interview a restaurant owner at lunch time during the opening of her third restaurant was a phenomenally bad idea. After watching this tiny hurricane of a woman running around for a few minutes, I made a judgement call and told her I would be back in the afternoon. Which retrospectively should have been my plan to begin with. Gló now has three raw food restaurants in the Reykjavik area. The owner and master chef, Solla Eiríksdóttir, has been involved in vegetarian and raw food cuisine for over 30 years. My first question, when I finally got her to sit down, was on how it all started. “I became a vegetarian before I was twenty. I was sick with allergies and food intolerance and was forced to choose between going on medication and completely changing my diet. I chose the latter and became a vegetarian, a life change that soon turned into passion for making good healthy food and spreading the gospel. Soon I started teaching vegetarian cooking and by 1994, I had my first restaurant. 16 years after my change, I found myself ready to try something new. That is when I gained interest in raw foods. I went to Puerto Rico in 1996 to study raw cooking. So I entered the world of raw rather early. “ According to Solla, people tend to connect “healthy” with “bad taste” in their minds. Her objective is to obliterate that connection by making raw food based on recipes and ideas that people already know and love. “My goal is to slowly but surely root out the prejudice and misconception that people have regarding raw food. In 25 years, the option of having raw meals will have become as common and natural as the vegetarian alternative is today.”
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The road to reform is long and winding and Solla takes her role very seriously. “I am extremely passionate about this. Instead of turning my belief that raw food makes everything better just onto myself, I have spent the last 17 years inventing and developing recipes that turn what people already know into raw food. As a result, my restaurants offer pizza, enchiladas, sushi and lasagne, all according to the raw ideology. The idea is to get people to have a taste, to like it and to come back. “ But what exactly does the raw concept embody? According to Solla, it is a cooking method that entails heating the food to only 42-47°C. That way the enzymes in the food can be preserved in order to give the human body a chance to maintain its self-healing abilities. This applies to vegetables, fruit, nuts, seeds and corn. But in order to get people on board, Solla adds a twist: “Our restaurants always have on offer six to nine types of salads, one raw dish, one cooked vegan or vegetarian dish and one chicken dish. We cook the chicken in a simple manner and then we add the raw sauces and good spices to get people used to the raw taste and texture. The purpose of this twist is to enable people who enjoy good raw and vegetarian food to come here and eat with their friends or spouses who do not share their taste in food … yet” she says and laughs. And once a
week they have meat free Mondays to raise awareness on how much water and land it takes to make one kilogram of meat. Her endeavours have not gone unnoticed outside of Iceland. Solla has in the last two years been voted “Favourite Raw Gourmet Chef” and “Favourite Raw Simple Chef” in the annual Best of Raw contest, which accepts nominations and votes through their website bestofrawfoods.com. This is indeed an exceptional honour for her and a priceless praise for Gló. Towards the end of our meeting, I asked this ridiculously busy woman if she never gets tired. She smiled and said: “Yes, but I have so much passion. The passion keeps me going. The days have been long in preparing the opening of the new restaurant, but I have been giddy as a little girl from excitement. I am so utterly convinced that Hippocrates was right when he said that we are what we eat. People are just people, they all have to eat. I want them to eat well and feel welcome.”
Gló Laugavegur 20b, 101 Reykjavík Engjateigur 19, 105 Reykjavík Strandgata 34, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 553 1111 www.glo .is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
ÍGLÓ&INDÍ
EVERYBODY LOVES IT by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir
I have kids and I have friends who have kids. We talk. Lately, the brand name Igló&Indí has been popping up in conversation regarding clothing for our children. There has been talk of fun prints and comfortable cuts and more to my interest as a journalist, there has been talk of great success in introducing the brand abroad. You must understand that Iceland is a nation of just over 300.000 inhabitants. Whenever something of ours draws attention to itself overseas, it makes us proud, happy and last but not least, curious. I made it my business to find out more. 32 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
THE BEGINNING Igló&Indí was founded in 2008 by renowned designer and mother of three, Helga Ólafsdóttir. Comfort, style and creativity were here guiding lights when she started her now famous children’s line, along with the notion that the clothes should be favourites for both children and their parents. Now, I have a five year old son. We do not always see eye to eye regarding what to wear and do you know why? Because I want him to dress a bit stylishly sometimes but he prefers comfort over everything else. This is why Igló&Indí caught my attention. According to Helga, she gets most of her ideas from children and from Iceland, the place where children experience freedom and are allowed to play outside with other children, animals and figments of their imagination. What adds spice to this lovely mixture is that Helga studied in Copenhagen, London and Milan and had prior to founding the company been a designer of adult fashions for many years. The idea of Igló&Indí came to life when she lived in
the US with her husband and her then two children, a boy and a girl. She found
that there was lack of comfortable boy clothes that were also stylish and cool. In late 2008 she made her move and started her own company. Even if she did so in the middle of the Icelandic economic crash, the wheels started moving, the ball started rolling and Helga was in business. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
THE NEXT PHASE Helga’s partner is Tinna Ólafsdóttir. She is a mother of four and has a degree in finance from the University of Iceland. She joined Igló&Indí as CEO in 2011. By then the company had expanded rapidly without the organization and infrastructure necessary to ensure future growth. Tinna’s background in business and retailing was just what the company needed to spread its wings. To begin with, Tinna’s involvement was intended to be a three month project. Now she has been with the company for three years and says that she
is in love with it. I met Tinna at her office and I can assure you that her words are no overstatement. At this point in time, Igló&Indí is becoming increasingly popular in Northern-Europe, the United Kingdom, Scandinavia as well as, interestingly, in Australia. The current company goal is to become a leading Scandinavian brand in Northern-Europe. THE SECRET TO THEIR SUCCESS Don’t get too excited; Tinna and Helga did not hand over to me the recipe for creating a popular children’s clothing brand. I will however share with you what magic I managed to capture during my visit to their office. Igló&Indí have an excellent product and an unusually strong logo but that alone does not a clothing label make. In Tinna’s own words, none of that matters if you do not have the right staff. Their team is unusually spirited and they swap ideas and criticism like there is no tomorrow. They are highly motivated with exceptional drive and they all walk in rhythm most of the time. Bottom line: The best business idea in the world will never amount to anything without the right people to execute it. MOTHER AND SON (RE)UNION My son would wear sweat pants and a long-sleeved t-shirt every day if it were up to him. However, it is not up to him, it is up to me. Every now and then I want him to wear something stylish to match his stylish parents. (His stylish mother, to be exact. Let’s face it, the boy gets his fashion sense from his father.) It may sound like a cliché and so be it, but Igló&Indí have made my life easier. By now, there is no debate, no negotiations and no hassle when my little
We’ll take you there!
nugget and I go to birthday parties or the theatre on the weekends. We agree on what he should wear on every occasion because we have found a clothing line that meets both our needs. To be honest, and you cannot tell him I said so, if Igló&Indí also made clothes that fit his father, all of my problems in life would magically disappear.
Igló&Indí Skólavörðustígur 4, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 571 9006 Kringlan Mall, 105 Reykjavik Tel: +354 517 7913 www.igloandindi.com Reykjavik Excursions | 33
Step Back in Time with the Vikings by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir
What is the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Iceland? Björk, volcanic eruptions and heaps of snow? Well, you wouldn’t be too far off – but what about the Vikings? The Viking heritage is the cornerstone of Icelandic culture. These gritty, fierce guys who built the country originally, after having sailed over the North Atlantic on small boats, powered by sail and oars, sometimes in questionable weather and always with little to eat or drink. Without them, none of us would be here. VIKING HISTORY AT THE HEART OF HAFNARFJÖRÐUR The Viking Village in Hafnarfjörður has been a town landmark for over two decades. The two oldest houses in the village cluster were built in the mid-1800s. In the early 1900s the older of the two was connected to the fishing trawler industry of the town, which later became a flourishing fishing industry contributing to the growth and development of Hafnarfjörður. In 1985 the town council consented to have the house demolished but the National Committee of Building Preservation was against it and the building was saved. Since then, the Viking
Village has been under constant care and renovation and has long since become a permanent part of the Hafnarfjörður landscape and culture. TWO THEMED VILLAGES The Viking Village is a unique place and it is the only Viking theme Hotel and restaurant in Iceland. We have step by step been developing our facilities over the last 24 years and will hopefully continue to do so in the future. We offer Hotel accommodation and Viking houses. The Viking Village is located in a lovely town by the harbour called Hafnarfjörður but is in the Reykjavík area, it only takes 10 minutes to drive to Reykjavík city center. Good for families and groups. In the hotel we have 41 rooms and then we have 14 cottages that can fit up to six people in each cottage. In the hotel we have free wifi, TV, hair dryer, coffee and tea maker, free parking, 24 hours reception and outside the hotel we have hot tup and sauna that our guests can use for free.
The Viking Village
In the Viking Village we have two restaurants, Fjörukráin and Vallhalla. Valhalla can seat 50 guests and Fjörukráin can seat 400 guests. Most nights we have live entertainment in the restaurants. The Fisherman’s Village is our newest accommodation and restaurant and is located in Hlið, Álftanes only few minutes drive from the Viking Village. Like a country home by the seaside, such an idyllic place to visit. The restaurant is open for groups in the evenings and there we have singer that comes and sing for the guests while they have dinner. Hlið is close to the president’s residence.
The Viking Village
The Fisherman’s Village 34 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Strandgata 55, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 565 1213 www.vikingvillage.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
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The Kingdom of Steak by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir It is a special place to walk into. The entrance is rather inconspicuous but after entering you find yourself in an almost medieval passageway that leads to a heavy wooden door. Behind it awaits half the kingdom in terms of good food. THERE’S A STORY The restaurant is not big, located on the first floor of Barónstígur 11, seating 80-100 people. I remember when I first came there in 2003. I was accompanied by a man whose interest in food was, and still is, a bit uncanny but at the same time absolutely adorable. We had only just sat down in our comfy booth surrounded by woodwork and heavy South-American decorations when he said: “I know we haven’t tasted the food yet but I already really, really like this place.” ONCE UPON A TIME … Argentina Steakhouse was founded in 1989 and has since then been one of the rbest estaurants in Reykjavík. Having been owned by the same man since three months after it was founded makes it special. Having had only three head chefs in all that time makes it unique. The taste of their char grilled beef and lamb is unparalleled and much to the surprise of
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many, given this is a Steakhouse, their fish menu is also out of this world with carefully selected fish, shellfish and lobster. There is simply nothing like having the purest ingredients in the world grilled on wooden coals. Add the roaring fireplace, the leather sofas and chairs and fine selections of wines and this will be a night to remember. Argentina was the first steakhouse in Iceland to offer steaks by weight and some of the courses on the menu have been there for the almost quarter of a century since the restaurant opened. The Icelandic ox and lamb have remained unchanged since the settlement of Iceland some 1000 years ago. The ox has a small body compared to elsewhere; it develops slowly which makes the meat more stable and the muscles finer and more time for fat build-up. The Icelandic lamb is organic by nature; it is 100% drug free and feeds on herbs and shrubs in the Icelandic highlands that give it a gourmet game taste which is nowhere else to be found, and everybody knows that Icelandic seafood is the best in the world. When this is mixed with tradition, history, rustic leather, wooden interiors and impeccable service you get, the experience of dining out in Reykjavík becomes something else.
… THERE WAS A PRINCE. I have been to Argentina every year since that evening in 2003 with the same guy. After that first evening he insisted on us making this an annual thing. We are about to make reservations for our eleventh consecutive year in dining at Argentina Steakhouse on his birthday, he turns 21 in November. The atmosphere surrounding me dining out with my son on his big day has changed somewhat. Instead of drinking soda with our T-bone we order a nice bottle of wine, we stay longer and obviously talk about different things than when he was 11. What has not changed is Argentina Steakhouse. The high quality of the food and staff is the same; we are still greeted with flawless service and the best steak in town. In a society that changes all the time, with fashion going in its inevitable circles, it is priceless to have some things stay the same. Besides, as in the case of Argentina Steakhouse; if it’s perfect, why change it?
Argentina Steakhouse Baronsstigur 11a, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 9555 www.argentina.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
The Traditions of Christmas
by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir
Christmas in Iceland is a magical time. Taking place a few days after winter solstice, during the darkest time of the year, Christmas brings light and joy to a season that sometimes seems to go on forever. Christmas in Iceland is a magical time. Taking place a few days after winter solstice, during the darkest time of the year, Christmas brings light and joy to a season that sometimes seems to go on forever.
The history of Christmas is interwoven with the heathen celebration of the winter solstice here in the north. This Nordic festival fell together with celebrating the birth of Jesus Christ when Iceland turned to Christianity over a thousand years ago. In the 4th and 5th centuries, it became a tradition to remember the birth of Jesus on December 25th and to celebrate his christening on
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Iceland takes Christmas very seriously, but it’s warm, cosy and delightful January 6th. It is because of this that the Icelandic Christmas, as Christmas in many other countries, is thirteen days long. It starts at 6.00 pm on December 24th and ends on the night of January 6th. The main events, Christmas Dinner and the opening of presents, take place on the evening of December 24th, which is different from most other Christian countries, where Christmas Day on December 25th brings most of the fun. PREPARATION IS EVERYTHING But to many people, the time spent on preparing Christmas is in no way less important or magical than the actual event. The last four weeks before Christmas are called “aðventa”, equivalent to the English advent. The word comes from Latin and means emergence or coming. When I was a child, some thirty odd years ago, Christmas preparations usually didn’t start until during the advent and for instance, an unwritten rule existed until a few years ago that none of the Icelandic radio stations
would play Christmas songs until December 1st. People would also wait to decorate their houses until the advent and stores would not advertise Christmas goods until that time. All this has changed and now the first Christmas advertisements usually see the light of day around October 20th. But despite all that, rituals and tradition, more than anything, are what makes Christmas in Iceland. People use the same food recipes, attend the same Christmas parties and set the table in the same manner year after year so that when the bell strikes 6.00 on Christmas Eve, everything is the same as it ever was. WHITE CHRISTMAS IN ICELAND, ANYONE? To many of us simple creatures, it is very important to have snow on Christmas. There is usually great speculation during advent on whether Christmas will be white or red here in the land of ice and snow. Because of changes in climate (dare I say Green House Effect?), white Christmases
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REYKJAVÍK CHRISTMAS CITY: PACKED FULL OF FESTIVE FUN AND EVENTS!
have become somewhat of a rarity in the southern part of Iceland. During the first ten or so Christmases that I remember (yes, that would be the ‘80s), we always had snow during Christmas. In fact, we also had snow during the weeks before Christmas. And the months after Christmas. We basically had snow from November until March (at least that is how I remember it). I guess I have to accept the fact that the 30 centimetres of snow that we had during Christmas in 1982 are never coming back. THE PARTY-PART Getting together with aunts and uncles, nieces and nephews and of course, grandand great-grandparents, is what this is all about. Christmas Day, the Second Day of Christmas and the weekend between Christmas and New Years are usually packed with family events. I sense a split in opinions among my friends towards these events. In my family, we try to keep Christmas Day open and obligation-free. For many years, I didn’t even get dressed on Christmas Day, and I sensed some envy from my more party-oppressed friends. I remember friends of mine having stopped by on their way to a Christmas-family function on Christmas Day a few years back. It was around noon; they were all dressed up with their two small children still somewhat sleep deprived yet sugaroverloaded from the night before, they looked tired and annoyed. Coming into my house did not help. There we were, me and the kids, sitting in front of the TV in our pyjamas, with steak and sauce leftovers on the living room table and the extended version of The Lord of the Rings about to start. Poor guys mumble something about this being the Christmas Day that they always wanted and slouched off to have smoked lamb with their great aunts. But the thing is, you can watch LOTR any time. Playing cards with your grandma in her best dress while sipping hot chocolate is something that must be cherished without question.
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In collaboration with various partners throughout the Reykjavík Capital Area preparations for Advent and Christmas are in full swing for the creation of an exciting, eventful and decorative season. Established as a joint initiative between the City of Reykjavík and a number of partners in the capital area, the project is designed to promote our festive winter celebrations throughout the month of December, attracting both residents and visitors from around the world. WE LOVE IT In all fairness, regardless of what religion Icelanders adhere to, we are a very Christmas-oriented nation. And no wonder. Can you imagine what the winters must have been like back in the day? When people lived in huts, lived off the land and could hardly go outside during the winter months without freezing to death or getting lost in a blizzard, it must have been nice to turn on the single candle they had, have the only nice meal they were going to get until spring and put on that one piece of clothing they had that was not used every day. My grandfather, bless him, once described to me his childhood Christmases. They had a small Christmastree his father built out of wood, they had good meat after having had nothing but fish for weeks and they had apples, which made him very happy. I cherish this memory with my grandfather. There is something beautiful in imagining him as a small boy on a farm in the 1930’s, happy as a clam with his apple, while modern day culture has us running around like headless chicken in trying to get the biggest presents, the best steak and the sweetest pie.
Select zones within the city have been designated as special Advent areas where our business partners and colleagues are encouraged to collaborate in the creation of a unique Christmas experience by organising markets, events and exhibitions. Drawing on Iceland’s rich tradition of folklore and storytelling, Reykjavík residents are encouraged to engage visitors with tales of Yuletide legends, such as the notorious Christmas Creatures, who will once again take up residency in the form of projected animations on the walls of various city buildings. Guests are also encouraged to take part in the Hunt for the Christmas Creatures - a fun activity for all the family, leading participants through the wonderland of Icelandic Christmas.
Reykjavik Excursions | 39
© Kjarnafæði
The Festival of Overating
by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir
All over the world, food traditions are a significant part of Christmas and Iceland is no exception. Each family has their own special features of traditional Icelandic courses that cannot be changed because then Christmas wouldn’t be the same. But what used to be a two day feast a few decades ago has now turned into weeks of indulgence and luxury. Not that I am complaining. THE MEAT The weeks before Christmas used to be connected with fasting. In some cases, it was a religious thing but in Iceland it more often than not was simply a result of poverty and limited resources. People had to save the good stuff for Christmas because there wasn’t much of it around. The traditional Icelandic Christmas dish at the start of the last century was “hangikjöt”, smoked lamb served with potatoes and white sauce made from butter, milk, wheat and sugar. For the less fortunate, the alternative was cooked grouse which remains a peremptory course for some, even to this day. In many households, hangikjöt is still served on Christmas Day but what is served on Christmas Eve varies more than it used to. Smoked ham (a Danish tradition) and turkey (an American dish) have become very popular in the last decades. THE COOKIES One thing is an absolute must in preparing for the holidays in Iceland, and that is the baking of Christmas cookies. There was a time when the excellence of a housewife was primarily judged by the number of cookie-types. Anything less than ten types was a sign of inadequacy. This has changed, both with the increased variety of sweets on offer and also because, let’s face it, who has time to spend weekend after weekend making cookies that
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will probably take up shelf space long into the new year because everybody had crème brûlée and Ris à l’amande? THE DRINK Yes, we have a unique Christmas drink. Not everybody likes it though. I’ve claimed that those who do not must have had their taste buds removed, but that is just one woman’s opinion. It is a soft drink, a mixture of two soft drinks actually. One is an Icelandic orange soda; the other is called Malt and is, as the name suggests, a malt-based soda, dark brown and very sweet. When you mix those two together, you get what I can confidently claim that 90% of all Icelandic households serve with Christmas dinner. THE BUFFETS A novelty was introduced into the Icelandic Christmas scene in the 1980’s, namely the Christmas Buffet, which has since then become an indispensable part of getting into the holiday spirit. Originally, this was a Danish tradition and the buffets were a lunch event, serving herring and cold meats. Soon this developed into a full dinner which most major restaurants in Iceland offer in the weeks before Christmas, and many companies now invite their employees to such events as part of the holiday spirit. THE GREATEST TRADITION OF ALL Not every tradition involves fresh ingredients
and the faint smell of quality cuisine. One of the largest Christmas-traditions in Icelandic takes place on December 23rd. It is the preparation and eating of fermented skate. To be fair, the preparation begins a few months earlier. The Icelandic way of fermenting the skate is quite simple; the flaps of the fish are piled into a container and left there for a month or two. During that time, the urea in the blood of the skate brakes down into ammonia compounds. Harmful bacteria that would otherwise cause the flesh to rot (to become putrid) are kept away by the high acidity and other harmless bacteria during this process. It is commonly thought that Icelanders eat putrid skate, but that is not the case. The strong ammonia smell of a well-prepared skate should take your breath away and thoroughly clean your sinuses. I know people who say that if eating fermented skate does not bring tears to your eyes, then it is not potent enough. It is fair to say that wherever you go on the day before Christmas, you will smell this wonderful tradition. The smell gets into people’s hair and clothing and spending time outside does nothing to get rid of it, so people carry it with them wherever they go. If you are not lucky enough to know one of the many brave Icelanders who cook this controversial dish in their home, some restaurants offer fermented skate on the day before Christmas, thus creating an atmosphere that is truly, in more ways than one, like no other.
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Bonfires Away by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir When I was a child, my anticipation during the weeks before Christmas sometimes became palpable, even painful at times. Looking forward to Christmas as a child is a memory that millions of people around the world can relate to on some level. But do those people also remember what it felt like when Christmas was over? I do.
Luckily, when you are in Iceland, there is no need to despair on December 27th. New Years is still to come and after that, you have Þrettándinn, or the Twelfth Day of Christmas, to look forward to. If you are a kid (or a grown up with a moderate to severe interest in lighting fires), these two evenings can be just as fun as Christmas, but on a completely different level. THE PARTY-NIGHT OF THE YEAR New Year’s Eve in Iceland is a very special event. It is the party-night of the year, with “party” being a very broad term with endless different interpretations. The core of the evening, for the majority of Icelanders, is getting together with family and/or friends, looking spectacular, eating something fantastic, watching the Annual Comedy Revue on television and then completely letting go of themselves fireworks-wise at midnight (and well into the morning in some cases). After that, the evening splits into two scenarios. Those of us with kids try to get them into bed some time before 2 am. Those without such obligations get busy taking the party, in whatever shape or form, to the next level.
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LIGHT’EM IF YOU GOT’EM But what happens between the meal and the TV Show was always my personal favourite; the bonfire. Every town in Iceland, no matter how small, throws a bonfire on New Year’s Eve. In my youth, the kids helped with gathering firewood for the bonfire. When I say firewood, I mean pellets, old tires, worn out furniture, card-board boxes, dry wood (and sometimes not-so-dry wood). The tires made the biggest smoke. Black as night. Awesome. The first New Year’s bonfire on record In Iceland was in 1791 when a group of schoolboys gathered on a hill in Reykjavik and turned fire to barrels and old timber. Half a century later, the bonfires had become quite common but they were not regarded as particularly intellectual gatherings since drinking and hooliganism was quite common. The hooliganism has been toned down somewhat since then, but you can still see a person or two with beer in one hand and a lit sparkler in the other at the New Year’s Eve bonfire. For the most part, it is just people dressed in winter-clothing on top of their best evening-dresses and suits, hand in hand with their kids, enjoying what they used to enjoy when they were kids.
FIREWORK CITY The amount of fireworks lit and the stretch of time that the show lasts are unique for Iceland at the turn of each year. You will see fireworks almost everywhere, as long as you spend the evening somewhere near other people. The size of the show obviously differs with the size of the town and in Reykjavik you will see a spectacle like you have never seen before. In the most populated areas, the noise, the smoke and the smell in the streets sometimes resemble what I think a war zone must look and feel like. If you prefer less smoke and more overview, move to the higher areas on the east or north sides of town and prepare to be blown away. Figuratively speaking, of course. THE END OF IT ALL On Þrettándinn, or the Twelfth Day of Christmas, those who have not yet had their fill of bonfires and fireworks can keep smiling. Add all the Yule Lads saying farewell, more fireworks and the odd elf jumping around, and you are in for a treat of an evening. It is safe to say that fire and explosions play a large part during the darkest hours of winter. We Icelanders do anything to brighten our days.
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The Wonderful Feel of Last Minute Christmas Stress by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir
LAUGAVEGUR The history of commerce at Laugavegur goes hand in hand with the history of Reykjavik. The road construction of Laugavegur was approved in the town council in 1885, and its original purpose was to facilitate travel to the hot springs used by maids and housewives to wash the laundry (the preface “lauga-“ means “spring-“ in English). The street soon became the hub of shopping and commerce in Reykjavik and consequently in the country. SHOPPING IN DECEMBER They turn the lights on in November. Laugavegur and the adjoining shopping streets are decorated with lights and ornaments, and that is when the fun begins. Every weekend until Christmas, the atmosphere is cheerful and filled with anticipation. And of course, the stress level rises as the big day approaches because when stores close at 11pm on December 23rd, everything must be in the bag. In my hometown, the women have a habit of asking each other: Have you done everything yet? I never understood this question when I was a child, but nowhere does it spring to life more than at Laugavegur on the day before Christmas.
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One of the wonderful perks of living in a small country is the closeness that develops between people. This is very apparent in the smaller towns but even in the capital of Reykjavik, with its 120.000 inhabitants, you can sometimes still feel the closeness, although Bob Dylan was not entirely wrong when he said that the times they were a-changin’. One of the best days to experience this is the day before Christmas.
THE FEEL OF IT December 23rd is called Þorláksmessa, or St. Þorlak’s Day, in Iceland, and it is a very special day in downtown Reykjavik. You can roughly divide the crowd into two groups; those who have not yet finished their Christmas shopping and those who got everything done in time and just want to get into the mood. There is music in the streets and as the day progresses the crowd becomes denser, and the pubs start filling up. All this is mixed with the smell of fermented skate and the light-salted desperation of husbands who decided to save the
wife’s present for last, yet again. This is the busiest shopping day of the year, and I actually know people who are very organised in their Christmas shopping, but always put off one or two things, just so they can get the true feel of Laugavegur on Þorláksmessa. My obsession with doing everything like the women in my home town permits no such indulgence but for those of you who plan on spending Christmas in this strange country of ours, walking down Laugavegur on this special day is something you should absolutely put on your list of things to do.
© radioedit @ flickr
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The Mischievous Thirteen
by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir
In most countries, one Yule lad or Santa Claus is considered quite enough. Iceland, of course, had go overboard. We have no less than thirteen Yule Lads and they have not always been very pleasant, either. ARE THEY NAUGHTY OR NICE? The first record of our Yule Lads dates back to the 17th century, and it is believed that they came about as a means to scare children. They varied in number at that time and there seem to have been either nine or thirteen of them to begin with. Since the middle of the 19th century, the number thirteen has been constant. The thirteen days of Christmas probably have something to do with that. The Yule Lads live in the mountains along with their parents, Grýla and Leppalúði, two troll-like, baby-eating figures who always get us into the holiday spirit. There they are accompanied by the murderous Christmas Cat, who sinks his claws and teeth into anyone who does not
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get new clothes before the clock strikes 6.00am on Christmas Eve. Charming, right?
when they wake up, usually overrides the fear of the Peeping Toms in red.
AND THEY BRING PRESENTS, TOO. The Yule Lads arrive one by one and leave one by one. The first one arrives during the night before December 12th and the last on the night before December 24th. Then they start heading for their mountain homes again in the same order, so the last one leaves on January 6th, the last day of Christmas. As opposed to what happens in America, where Santa Claus brings presents on the night before Christmas, the Icelandic Yule Lads bring trinkets during the nights of their arrival, and place them in the shoes of children who have been behaving in a manner acceptable to the grown up population. Their shoes must be conveniently placed on the windowsills in their rooms in order for the Yule Lads to reach them through the window. Now, you may be wondering if it is a good idea to have children think that it is normal for bearded hobos to be looking into their rooms while they sleep. Believe you me, I know children who have lost sleep from sheer terror of this charming tradition. But the hope of finding a small toy or a bag of sweets in their shoe
THE NAMES SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES Speaking of Peeping Toms, the names of our Yule Lads are quite special. They changed quite often in the old days and varied between regions, but they have remained relatively the same since 1932. The names are very descriptive and refer to their individual mischievous nature. For instance, Þvörusleikir translates as Spoon-licker; Hurðaskellir means Door-slammer; Gáttaþefur is Doorway-Sniffer in English, and we also have, and this is no joke, Gluggagægir, which translates as Window-peeper. So we do, in fact, have our own Peeping Tom, who arrives a few days before Christmas, dressed in red. BUT THEY CAN ALSO BE NICE Today, the boys in red have mellowed. When they arrive at Christmas-dances with bags on their shoulders they do not in any way attempt to harm, hurt or scare children. They are still loud and very forward but for the most part they have become a bunch of singing and dancing old teenagers who make everybody very happy. For the most part.
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“ZOMG REYKJAVIK HAS A BIG LEBOWSKITHEMED BAR!” Tweeted by @caitlinmoran - Followers: 514K – A Journalist for The Times. Ever seen the 1998 cult classic “The Big Lebowski” by the Coen brothers? Of course you have! Everybody has. But for those of you unfamiliar with the concept (you really should see this movie though) it involves the “Dude” Lebowski, mistaken for a millionaire Lebowski, who seeks reimbursement for a ruined rug and enlists his bowling buddies to help get it. In Reykjavík, we, now, have a bar based on the concept. YEAH, WELL. THE DUDE ABIDES. Lebowski Bar on Laugavegur opened in April 2012 and immediately became a huge hit. The general idea was to combine a bar with a diner styled grill, furnished in The Big Lebowski bowling style. Among the many great happenings at Lebowski Bar you will find are DJ’s every night and sometimes live performances, the Thursday night Movie-Quiz and every major game and sport event on the Big Screen. The bar can serve up to 300 people with food and drink in four dining areas so every individual or group can be seated comfortably. Their Diner Menu offers a variety of Lebowski burgers and milk shakes, such as the classic “The Other Lebowski” (Steak Burger with Bernaise sauce), the more healthconscious “Bunny Lebowski” (Chicken Burger 48 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
with Blue Cheese sauce) or “The Nihilist” (BBQ Chicken Wings). The crown jewel, however, is definitely the White Russian Menu, made up purely of Vodka and Kahlua-based cocktails. Recently they’ve been greatly adding to their bottled artisan beer menu, and their selection of Whiskeys.
saw the bottom of that Tuborg draft glass, people were dancing to The Doors and my instinct told me to pick up a White Russian for me and my date, who had been talking to some EVE online game conference guests as I made notes in my head about the brilliant atmosphere.
THAT RUG REALLY TIED THE ROOM TOGETHER The location of Lebowski Bar, along with its brilliant concept-design, is a big contributor to its success. Laugavegur is the main shopping and bar-hopping street in Reykjavik. Virtually everybody goes there at one time or another, both locals and visitors. Lebowski Bar has through its location been both frequented by regulars and attended by passers-by and foreign visitors equally.
HEY, CAREFUL, MAN, THERE’S A BEVERAGE HERE! Among the previously named EVE Online conference guests I spotted a pair of Icelandic actresses, having what I can only imagine being a glass of milk (as opposed to heavy cream and vodka) considering their itsy bitsy waistlines. Also present was an Icelandic MMA fighter (the only one we have come to think about it) and a group of college students who looked like they were really enjoying the music. The atmosphere in Lebowski Bar does not ask for age, gender, if you are wearing a watch or if you like bowling at all. It only asks that you loosen up, have a beverage or two and maybe a burger but most of all that you have fun. Walking out of the front door I wondered how on earth such a wide group of people could find themselves sitting down and having such fun in the same place. But if the Dude abides, so should we.
I checked out Lebowski bar on a Thursday night. I had been there several times before on a weekend, but arriving tipsy and leaving drunk I never wrote any reviews (although I should highly commend the bar staff for great cocktails) so I decided to behave like an adult, see the band that evening and have a beer. Having shown up early I got a seat between the bar and the band. Starting with a Tuborg Classic draft, I waited for the band to play their tunes and boy, was I in for a treat. The young keyboard player (a 19 year old prodigy) started the night off with Booker T & MG’s Green Onions, followed by the guitar player serving ZZ Top’s La Grange with a twist. Needless to say, people could barely sit still in their seats. By the time I
Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20a, 101 Reykjavík +354 552 2300 www.lebowski.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
*Admission may 2014. Price is subject to change
Reykjavik's Thermal Pools
e c r u o s A alth e h of
*
O N LY
0LiTsSk. 60 ADU k. 130DiRsEN CHIL
Th er m al sw i m m in g po ol s
Hot t ubs and jacuzzi
Sa un as , steambaths an d sh ow ers
Fo r he al t h an d w el l-be in g
Se ve n lo ca t io ns
Op en ea rl y un t il la te
Thermal pools an and baths in Reykjavik a are a source of health health, rrelaxation axation and purenes pureness. All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot pots with temperatures ranging from 37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F).
Tel: +354 411 5000 • www.spacity.is
Tax & Duty Free
Ă?SLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLE 71180 10/14
Experience Iceland Icelandic memories available at Tax and Duty free prices.
Keflavik Airport welcomes you to one of the few airports in the world that is both tax and duty free for all passengers. So you can save up to 50% off city prices in arrival and departure shops.
Reykjavik City Marathon The Reykjavik City Marathon is celebrating its 32nd year in 2015, having been astablished as early as 1984. Back then it was much different, involving only 214 die-hard souls of seven different nationalities in addition to Icelandic. Today, the race attracts around 15.000 participants every year, thereof about 2.500 of foreign nationalities, and 2014 they collectively managed to raise 84,6 million ISK (550.000 EUR or 700.000 USD) for charity.
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The events include a full marathon and a half marathon, 10 km, relay, 3 km and the children’s LazyTown run, associated with a popular children’s cartoon of the same name which rose to prominence on Nickelodion. The starting line is in the heart of the city center by Íslandsbanki, one of the main sponsors, and you run through residential areas, public parks and by the coast – so it’s a great way to see the city! The race is organized to coincide with the Reykjavik Culture Night, a day-and-night long festival of culture and entertainment
all over Reykjavík which consists of a main stage in the city center, and different venues all over town, from art galleries and cafés to private residences and back yards, in addition to many spontaneous street happenings. The whole thing is then topped off with a fireworks show at the harbour and the whole town turns up to see the glory. It is estimated that 100.000 people attend the festival every year, which considering that the population of the whole city is only 200.000 people, means that practically everyone and their grandmother is there!
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
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Our Dearest Dairy Product Skyr (pronounced skeer) is a unique Icelandic dairy product which has been a staple food in our country for over a thousand years. It is still enjoyed daily by Icelanders, in various shapes and form, renowned for its high protein content and smooth texture. PROVISIONS OF HISTORY This deliciously healthy course or snack has been a large part of the Icelandic diet since the first settlers brought it with them around the year 1000. It is even mentioned in the Icelandic Sagas. Skyr is made from clotted skim milk, it has a slightly acid taste and a tinge of sweetness. This product has been popular through history, with both children and adults, due to its versatility and nutritional qualities. It is a creamy delicacy that is both fat-free and rich in protein, giving you a great sense of fullness. A convenient and healthy food that is loved by both Icelanders and visitors alike. In recent times this product, which to tell you the truth was considered a rather old fashioned way of eating when I was growing up, has become the snack of all snacks. With the bodybuilding craze that Iceland has undergone in the past years, a pot of Skyr
has again become the image of all things good and pure. The high protein/low fat combination has made it an indespensable part of any health oriented Icelander. A LOW CALORIE BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER AND DESERT. So for people who want to restrict their calorie intake but still eat well and maintain a balanced diet, skyr is the natural choice. Although, mind you, serving it with cream and lots of sugar, like my grandparents prefer it, might put a damper on the dieting aspect of things. Children love it and for most of us over the age of 35, skyr was probably one of the first solid foods we ever tasted. Speaking of children, I came home from work today, famished as usual, and immediately started rummaging through the refrigerator for something to ease my suffering. A can of Skyr was what I found, perfect, round, cold, ready to help me survive
until dinner time. I opened the can, took one oh so gratifying spoonful and left the can on the kitchen table to go answer the phone. When I came back (no more than two minutes later) I found my three year old son with my spoon in his hand, smiling ear to ear, telling me proudly that he had finished all of “his” food. Bless him. If you are into low fat cooking, unflavoured, unsweetened skyr is a great fat-free substitute for mayonnaise, crème fraiche or yogurt in cold dips and oven dishes. It contains 10% high quality protein, 20% of which is whey protein, best known for its muscle building qualities. FRESH FROM THE ARCTIC This beloved product of ours is made from the best ingredients: milk farmed in the fresh green pastures near the arctic circle where the water is pure and the nature is unspoilt. The modern day processing technique is 100% natural, based on the original principles, using a thousand year old recipe and milk from the same cow breed, the colourful settlement cow, whose milk has unique health-promoting qualities. Until a few years ago, Skyr was only available in Iceland. This has changed dramatically in recent years since Skyr is now produced in Denmark, Sweden and Norway under licence agreements from Iceland and exported to Finland. Skyr has proven to be liked by Iceland‘s neighbours with sales growing. This is really a lovely example of how life runs in circles since the original Icelandic settlers indeed came from Norway, and along with them, in all likelihood, the recipe for what has been the corner stone of Icelandic diet since the beginning of time.
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Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
ONE OF 25 WONDERS OF THE WORLD - National Geographic
The Gem of Reykjavík by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir
Perlan, or The Pearl in English, opened in June 1991. It is one of the capital’s landmarks and an amazing construct, a gigantic dome that connects six geothermal water tanks, who each has the capacity to store 4 million liters of geothermal water. Situated on the top of Öskjuhlíð hill, The Pearl can be seen from all over and serves as one of the greatest locations for sightseeing in the Reykjavík area. A CONSTRUCT LIKE NO OTHER The dome is made from glass and steel bars that not only connect the water tanks and form the dome-like structure, but also supply the building with heat. The steel shell is, in fact, a gigantic radiator. In cold weather during the winter, warm water flows through the steel shell. In the warm summer days, cold water flows through the shell and serves as a cooler. That is how the temperature within the dome is regulated to keep an even temperature all year round and make this beautiful construction truly amazing. There is much to see within this remarkable structure. The fourth floor cafeteria is surrounded by a broad deck from which you can enjoy a panoramic view of the city. On a bright day, the view there is simply spectacular. Another fun feature is the indoor
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geyser imitation. This powerful gadget creates an indoor hot spring that can reach meters into the air. Quite intense actually! A VIEW FROM THE TOP The pearl within The Pearl is the restaurant on the top floor. With its rotating floor and an unparalleled view, it is one of the most popular restaurants in Reykjavík and rightfully so. The Pearl is a landmark that should not be overlooked by anyone who visits our nation’s capital and the same goes for the restaurant. It is only fitting to mix the magnificent view and impressive architecture with food prepared by some of Iceland’s greatest chefs. Some of the Pearl’s chefs are even members of the Club des Chefs des Chefs, a membership of chefs who prepare food for presidents and other national leaders and VIP’s. I have had the pleasure of dining in the Pearl’s restaurant on several occasions, and it really is an absolute favourite of mine. Whether it is their wild game buffet, their Christmas buffet or a la carte, whatever the occasion, the Pearl offers nothing but impeccable service and exquisite food. One thing to note is that Perlan restaurant places high emphasis on creating everything from the ground up. As such, you’ll find that the delicious ice cream served is made on location, by the highly qualified staff. Likewise, their bread, pastry and other such items are made right there. This is really in line with the quality focus that surrounds every aspect of the Perlan Restaurant. Dining there, one can really sense that everyone is working towards the same goal – that of customer satisfaction.
But that is not all. Dining there comes with a very special feeling which is difficult to put into words. I guess that the word which is best suited to describe this experience is festive. Not only does it feel both classy and fancy, but it has the ring of true celebration, to dine below this huge dome, seated on a rotating floor with a view of the entire capital, the mountains, the ocean, and if you are there at night in the wintertime, the city lights and the stars. It makes me feel like a princess. And that, my friends, is a feeling that I like.
Perlan Öskjuhlíð, 105 Reykjavík Tel: +354 562 0200 www.perlan.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
SOUVENIR SHOP SH OP O F T H E Y E A R 2 0 1 2
MORE THERE ISORE TO EXPL
The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri
info@theviking.is www.theviking.is
Akureyri Reykjavík
TAX FREE
An Old, Food Serving Friend The bus terminal in Reykjavik is commonly known as BSI. It is THE bus terminal in Iceland. Since its foundation in the late 60‘s, it has been the hub for all bus travel in the country. BSI is conveniently located in central Reykjavik and serving food has been a part of life at the bus terminal since the beginning. THE TERMINAL TRADITION The bus terminal café/bistro is called Fljótt & Gott and they serve traditional Icelandic food, which has been the BSI food service trademark for almost 50 years. The atmosphere in BSI is very cosmopolitan since it serves as the centre for bus travel in Iceland. The terminal has hundreds of thousands of guests passing through each year, both foreign and domestic. With daily trips to and from the international airport at Keflavik, this really is a busy place. The terminal restaurant Fljótt & Gott has a rich history and is one of the oldest restaurants in the country. It is safe to say that the tradition connected to Fljótt & Gott is very strong and the experience there is without precedent. It welcomes everybody to their comfortable and family-friendly environment where everybody can find something to their liking. Every day from 10:30am to 3:00pm, Fljótt 60 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
& Gott serves affordable local food, as close to Icelandic home cooking as it gets. But their grill is open from 7:00am to 11:00pm every day, serving burgers, steak, deep fried fish, sandwiches and other conventional grill dishes along with wine, beer or sodas. AND SOME THINGS REMAIN THE SAME There are two things that Fljótt & Gott are probably most famous for. First I would like to mention their serving of singed sheep heads, a traditional Icelandic dish which people either love or hate with absolutely no middle ground. This course goes back to when the country was so poor that every little piece of meat had to be utilized. I can still remember my son bursting into tears of terror on the first and only occasion he tasted this alleged delicacy. But I can also tell you that those of my family members who do appreciate singed sheep heads fall
into a trance of happiness every time this old tradition ends up on their dinner table. The second thing is their drive-through. Many of us who grew up out in the country remember trips to Reykjavik with our parents, sitting in the back seats of smokefilled cars with no seatbelts. The drivethrough at BSI was a fixed stop for us outof-towners back in the day. A hot dog and a soda for the whole family at the bus terminal drive-through is a cherished childhood memory for so many of us that the Fljótt & Gott is almost an old friend to our minds. An old friend that serves food.
Fljótt & Gott Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 1288 www.fljottoggott.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
ICELANDIC LOCAL BEER PLATTER
All the Games and all the Action Live Music Every Night Save Sa ave Water, Wa ateer, Drink Driink Beer D Beeer AUSTURSTRÆTI 12 • 101 REYKJAVÍK • ENSKIBARINN@ENSKIBARINN.IS
A picture paints a thousand words by Hjörtur Atli Guðmunds. Geirdal
In August 2014 the ground ripped apart between the north end of Vatnajökulll and the Aska Caldera.
While volcanic eruptions are quite common in Iceland, especially in comparable terms, they inspire awe along with a host of other emotions for all Icelanders, and after the crowdpleaser Eyjafjallajökull back in 2010, for a big part of the world as a whole. Shortly after this eruption started, I, along with a small team of super-heroes and geniuses, decided to do all we could to capture amazing footage of the eruption, while trying to describe our experiences through articles, blogs and videos. We’ve now written several articles on the whole thing (available on www.whatson.is), posted a beautiful video on YouTube and have a collection of hundreds of incredible photographs, so we believe we’ve achieved our original mission. Instead of attempting to write yet another piece on how this whole thing
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went down and what went through my head while it was happening, here are photos. A picture is worth a thousand words, and when it comes to describing a live an active volcano in the middle of Iceland, that saying is truer than ever. JUST TWO SHORT POINTS TO MAKE: If you are interested in what we wrote on the eruption, I urge you to check out www.whatson.is – the articles should be fairly easy to find while there. Seeing an active volcano isn’t something that’s available every day of the year. So if you have the chance of actually seeing the eruption of 2014, seize it. I hope you like the pictures as much as we enjoyed taking them.
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
We’ll take you there!
Reykjavik Excursions | 63
Mastering the Simplicity of Good Bistro A bistro-style restaurant under Scandinavian influences? This I have got to try. So, I did. When we arrived it was after eight o’clock on a Wednesday night. The place was packed with smiling faces and suddenly it didn’t feel like a Wednesday anymore. Everybody there seemed inanely determined not to let anything get in the way of them and their constitutional right to relax, chat, eat good food and have a drop of wine. At first I thought to myself that the interior of the place must call for this sort of relaxed attitude. At Snaps Bistro you will not find glass and steel unless in the form of cutlery. The key words here are more along the lines of flowers and wooden panels with the addition of a gazebo (yes, really). The food was first class, his steak was perfectly
cooked, my chicken was zesty yet tender and the wine was lovely. All around us were people enjoying the simplicities of a good Bistro menu. But even though all the ingredients were first class and the wine list exemplary, that alone does not create a desired atmosphere. It is rather simple, when you think about it. There is such a thing as “that extra special something”, a form of ambiance that has nothing to do with the food or the drinks or the waiters (which were great by the way). For some reason,
this place has it. We had an absolutely lovely evening, without really being able to put our finger on what made it so. It is my solemn belief that sometimes restaurants try too hard. Snaps Bistro does not try. It just is.
Sangria talking, but eating in this restaurant made me feel happy inside. There is simply something heart-warming for an Icelander to be sitting in a renovated fisherman’s hut on a pier, looking out at the Atlantic Ocean and eating dish after dish of Spanish food that is so good it makes you want to take the chef home with you. But maybe it isn’t a wonder because the link to Spain is stronger here than one might imagine. The Icelandic Tapas House is located in a former fisherman’s hut built in 1921. In the old days, the house was operated as a Salt Cod establishment and almost all of the production was exported to
Spain. So there is indeed a connection. Salt Cod therefore has an honorary seat on the menu but according to the Tapas tradition, the menu is filled to the brim with versatile ingredients and cooking methods from all over the world. Eating Tapas is supposed to be loud, colourful, diverse and fun. And here in the old hut in Geirsgata, it sure is.
Snaps Óðinstorg, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 511 6677 www.snaps.is
An Adventure Under a Bridge Walking along the the old fisherman‘s huts by Geirsgata has become very different to what it used to be a few years back. The activity in these old houses with the weird green colour has shifted from serving the small boat fishermen of Reykjavik to housing various restaurants, a gallery and a goldsmith to name a few. Taking a walk there on a calm evening has really become something else. One of the restaurants you will find in this lovely area is The Icelandic Tapas House. Upon walking in there on a brisk Thursday evening in April, the first thing I noticed was the distinctive beat of the Spanish dance Flamenco and guitar music. The dance was being performed live on the upper floor. I was told they were experimenting with this event and I hope they continue with it, oh what fun! Not in any way less exciting was the menu. Gorgeous Tapas dishes to be selected individually or mixed by the house. We went for the Cuban mix and ordered a pitcher of Sangria to go with it. I’m not sure if it was the 64 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
The Fish Company Vesturgata 2a, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 5300 www.fiskfelagid.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
The Light of Our Lives Iceland, silly as the name can seem during the summer months, was named so for a reason. In the old days, before electricity and heating when the cold and dark actually killed people, selfpreservation and innovation were the key to surviving. It is a wonderful thing that one of the best known brands in Icelandic export is a product that has helped the Icelandic nation survive since the settlement. It‘s called lýsi and we are so proud of it. Our Norwegian settlers brought with them the knowledge of how to process lýsi which in simplified terms is oil from the livers of the animals in the sea. They made it from whale, shark, fish, seal and even birds and used it as fuel for light, to calm waves, to soften and protect the clothing of seafarers and as a nutritional supplement for both humans and animals. For a time it was even used as currency, as sources from as far back as 1096 state that church taxes in Iceland were paid in the form of this life saving, smelly liquid. The name “lýsi“ comes from the product having been used as lamp oil, in Icelandic the verb “lýsa“ means “to illuminate“ and when living this close to the Arctic Circle one can only imagine how precious it must have
been to be able to have light in the house. Add to that the fact that lýsi is a valuable source of vitamins A and D (in a country where the sun is absent most of the time and low in the sky when it does show its face) and it becomes an understatement to say that lýsi has had a real impact on survival in this country. The method of processing lýsi from the liver in the old days was, in the simplest terms I can think of, something like this: They dug a hole, put the liver in the hole and waited for the oil to squirt out. Nevertheless, Lýsi was the biggest export product of Iceland as early as the 14th century, along with dried fish and woollen cloth. THE BEGINNING In 1938 a man named Tryggvi Ólafsson founded a production and export company and called it simply LYSI . He had then spent the decade before trading and experimenting with lýsi, first in a small lab he prepared in his home. At the time he founded LYSI, the company was considered a pioneer in the production of marine lipids and later became a global leader in the field. The company’s research has been on-going for decades and today LYSI is at the world forefront of research and product development. Tryggvi had a seat on the board until he was 96 years old and it was in the year 1981 that the first nonfamily member became president of the company. In 1999 the company changed owners again and has been run by Katrín Pétursdóttir and her family since then. Katrín
We’ll take you there!
is the granddaughter of Tryggvi Ólafsson. Her parents left LYSI in 1981 and founded Fiskafurðir, a company in similar ventures as LYSI. It was a happy day when they gained ownership of what had been founded by her grandfather over 60 years earlier. In April 2007, LYSI was awarded the President of Iceland’s Award for Export Achievement for its “unique achievement in the sales and marketing of marine lipid products and for the vision the company demonstrates in product development and for the build-up of knowledge and expertise in its field.” THE REST IS HISTORY Every child in Iceland knows that there is no way of growing up to be big and strong without having a spoonful of Lýsi with breakfast every day. They have no idea what Omega-3 and vitamins A and D do for them and at that point they don‘t care. This is tradition. This is what mummy and daddy raise them to do because their parents told them to and that has been the way of things in this country for hundreds of years. But the LYSI product line has more to offer than just classic cod liver oil in a glass bottle. The company now has various production lines, including shark liver oil, omega-3 fish oil and various blister products where in addition to the lýsi itself the customer is provided with vitamins and minerals to go with the ever so healthy liver oil we all love. But the majority of the company’s turnover comes from a tradition of 700 years, exporting cod liver oil in bulk. And in a country that is consumed with nostalgia, you can just begin to imagine how loving and respecting LYSI is branded into our dark-enduring, hard-working Icelandic soul. It’s part of who we are. Simple as that.
Reykjavik Excursions | 65
by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson
Have you ever seen the stars in the night sky, and thought “what if I was up there, and they were on the ground?” No? Well that’s exactly how it feels to fly over the brilliant lights of Reykjavík in the dark winter night. Here’s how it works: You take off during sunset, which is very often magnificently colourful in Iceland, and in the twilight you can see all the way to the Blue Mountains in the south, the mountain ranges east of the city, north over Faxaflói bay to Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and to the west nothing but the endless blue sea. It’s a beautiful sight, as well as a great way to get your bearings in Iceland. THE STARS BELOW… Then, when darkness falls, you can see the city lights on the ground. Reykjavík is not a large city, but it’s remarkably well illuminated due to the abundance of cheap electricity in Iceland. There’s really no good way to describe the magical feeling of hovering above the myriad twinkling lights in the dead of night. The people look like ants and yet at the same time, you feel very near to each of them. Not to mention, if the sky is clear, you’re seeing the stars above you as well as below, and if you’re lucky you can glimpse the elusive Northern Lights! TO INFINITY AND BEYOND! AirZafari is a new company in Iceland offering scenic flights of Reykjavík By Night, as well as flights to the active volcano at Bárðarbunga, to the Golden Circle, and more. Bárðarbunga started erupting in August 2014 and before long people had started 66 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
flying their planes to look at it. It’s totally magnificent, the fountains of lava have been seen spurting 130 metres (430 feet!) into the air, and the colours are unbelievable - if you’ve seen a photo and thought it looked photoshopped, it’s probably still not as bright as the actual thing(!)
and Kangerlussuaq (Söderström), all in Greenland. Now it’s time for the next chapter in the company’s history, with the overseas conquest of Iceland. AirZafari operates under the license of Copenhagen AirTaxi and offer scenic flights of Copenhgen, in addition to Iceland and Greenland.
And the Golden Circle of course is the classic Icelandic day tour, covering Þingvellir National Park, Geysir the geyser and the Gullfoss the waterfall. However, seeing it from the air is completely different—even if you’ve seen it from the ground before, the bird’s eye view will blow you away. You get in touch with the raw power of the elements, the fissures that clearly speckle the land at the tectonic divide between Europe and America, while at the same time seeing how small it all really is in the grand scheme of things, you get a view over many more things than in an earthbound Golden Circle tour, and you get a feel for how everything really fits together on this vast little island.
FREE LIKE A BIRD The company has a focus on being fresh and fun, and on offering good, personal service. Since they’re a smaller, younger company, they’re also very flexible as well as very competitively priced. They fly a Partenavia P68 plane, twin-engine for superior safety. The airplane seats 5 people, so it’s well suited for smaller groups, and you wouldn’t believe the feeling of sitting in such a light aircraft with big windows, you’re almost like a bird, or at least you feel like you’re sitting on air.
… A FLYING START AirZafari only recently started operating in Iceland, but the company itself started in 2010 when the husband-and-wife team, Jens and Bente Larsen, started operating scenic flights in Ilulissat, Greenland. The company was quite successful and soon grew to operate planes out of Nuuk, Kulusuk
So to fly free like a bird over city lights in the twilight, over an active volcano or over places of historic and geological significance, contact AirZafari today for an experience of a lifetime.
AirZafari Tel: +354 823 0300 www.airzafari.is
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
© Rafn Sig
Bright Lights in the dead of Night
What’s On in Iceland
by Hjörtur Atli Guðmunds. Geirdal
All the information on everything that’s happening in Iceland So you‘ve arrived in Iceland, your warm clothes in your bag, high hopes and a lot of excitement. Great! But now what? There are about a million incredibly cool things to do in Iceland, so it can definitely be a daunting task to organize a stay here. Luckily – you‘ve got a hawk in a corner. A HAWK IN A CORNER REALLY DOESN‘T MAKE SENSE TO ME.
SO...WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT AGAIN?
Well – it would make sense, if you‘d have read the FAQs on WhatsOn.is. They‘re pretty awesome actually, though the author allegedly goes overboard at times in his borderline desperate attempts at humour. So having a hawk in one’s corner is a good thing. It‘s basically an ally, often times an unexpected ally, but one you can rely on. Your hawk will come to your aid when you most need it. Just like the guys and girls at What‘s On in Reykjavik do!
What‘s On in Reykjavik. It‘s three different things but still basically the same. You see, What‘s On in Reykjavik is a magazine that‘s published every month all year around. It‘s been published for 30 straight years already and is one of the most established tourist publications in Iceland. There you‘ll find a selection of interesting articles, a comprehensive event calendar, covering everything that’s happening in and around Reykjavik, with a special emphasis on the spectacular museums
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of Reykjavik and the capital area, as well as plenty of other relevant and fun material such as restaurant, shopping and nightlife recommendation and a map of downtown Reykjavik. All in all, it‘s a cool magazine that you can pick up at all the hotels and the major places usually frequented by visitors to Iceland. Definitely something you‘ll want to check out if you‘re looking for something to do in Reykjavik. What’s On in Reykjavik also has a tourist information and booking office downtown, on Laugavegur 4, named, very creatively, “What’s On”. There they continue the work of the magazine by physically informing you about the city and its events, as well as giving you neutral advice on what tours and activities you might want to undertake while you’re here, and helping you book them. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
It can be really tough to know what exactly you should do with your holiday and how to make the most of the days that you’re here. You might be asking yourself: Where should I go? What should I do there? And how should I dress?!?! What’s the very coolest tour to go on? What’s weather dependent and what do I need to book in advance? What’s the meaning of life? But the staff of What’s On are locals with a good overview over everything to do, and they’ll take what you’re into doing (say shark wrestling) and advise you on the best way to do that thing (go on a scuba tour and hope for the best)...No promises on that “meaning of life” thing though. And even if there isn’t a specific tour for what you’re into, there’s always the chance that they know a guy who knows a guy. Basically they get you all sorted out – and it’s a free service! They also have a constantly-updated event calendar on the wall where the staff pin whatever hip musical, theatrical, artistic or other cool events might be coming up in the following week, a whole ton of free literature about Iceland and brochures about different tours, and out in the courtyard there’s a big ol’ map of Iceland and the bus routes and you really should just check it out. THE GIST OF IT
Finally there is the website, whatson. is. It‘s basically the website for the magazine – but the guys running the show decided to expand on it a little bit and taking advantage of the wonder that is the internet. You will of course find the majority of the content from the magazine, all the best articles
and such, but on top of that they‘ve added a very extensive FAQ section, which (hopefully) should answer all the questions you might have about Iceland and Icelanders, an event calendar, and the option to book some hand-picked tours and activities in Iceland, operated by highly experienced collaborators of What‘s On. That‘s something you might really want to consider if you‘re looking for some activities or tours in Iceland, because these guys and gals know what they‘re talking about, and if they don‘t, they definitely know the right dude you
should be talking to! Lastly – if there‘s any question you might have that‘s not answered on the site, or anything you might need help with while staying in Iceland, they’re super helpful and will do their best to help you out if you contact them (whatson@whatson.is) You can write them just to test them, or tell them you read this article. They‘ll appreciate it. Unless you‘re annoying – in which case they‘ll most likely be polite, nice and helpful, but curse us instead. We really don‘t mind.
USE WHATSON.IS TO BOOK YOUR TOURS AND ACTIVITES IN ICELAND NOW, OR FOR FINDING EVENTS, INFORMATION AND EVERYTHING ELSE ABOUT ICELAND!
We’ll take you there!
Reykjavik Excursions | 69
Another One Rides the Bus by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir I took the bus to work today. It might sound mundane but for me, it was a big step. Huge, in fact. This was the third time in my life I have used public transportation within the city limits. Travelling around the country in a bus is different and doesn‘t count. In Iceland there is, or shall I say has been, a clear distinction between the city buses and the ones transporting people between towns/regions. The city bus is called “Strætó”. That is short for “strætisvagn” which in direct translation means “street carriage”. They are big and yellow and they‘ve been around forever. I grew up in a small village east of Reykjavík. When I was a kid it took an hour to get to the capital by car. I had an aunt in town and sometimes I rode the bus to go stay with her. It was easy. The bus always left at the same time from the same location in my hometown and drove to the same place in Reykjavík where my aunt would pick me up (I usually had to wait a while because my aunt has never been good at telling time but waiting builds character according to her so I guess it was a good thing). At one occasion I went to stay with her because I had a dentist‘s appointment. The appointment was during the day, obviously, and my aunt couldn‘t leave work so she suggested that I just go by Strætó. I was twelve and this really didn‘t sound like a big deal. Just go to a particular street corner, wait for a big yellow bus with a particular number on the front window, get on board and then get out at another particular street 70 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
corner close to the dentist‘s office. Easy breezy? One would think so but something went wrong or, to be fair, I did something wrong. I ended up alone in the back of a bus which drove to the outskirts of town where all the other buses are kept. There the bus stopped for 40 mins while the driver ate his lunch, listened to the news and took a short nap. All this he did with me in the back, him being perfectly aware of me being in the back but not saying a word and I was scared and I missed my appointment and it was awful! An occasion for me to use this means of transportation again, didn’t arise until 15 years later. By that time I was living in Reykjavík and had unreasonably, temporarily and very inconveniently lost my driving licence. After having sat at home for the first two days I started thinking that not leaving the house for a few months was probably not going work. I took a deep breath and decided to overcome the fear that had been festering since my childhood Strætó experience. I did everything right, taking the bus really isn’t rocket science but even so, I went all the way in planning the trip from my home to downtown Reykjavík. I knew which street corner to stand on, which bus to take, where to leave that bus to catch the one carrying me to my destination. And as before, I failed. I failed so miserably that I was forced to call a Taxi from a suburb I had never been to before and I wowed NEVER to try and master the mysterious ways of Strætó ever again. Since the economic crash of 2008 we have all watched the price of gas go through the roof and the cost of driving the family car along with it. At the same time there has been a big change in the image and routes
of Strætó. These big yellow enemies of mine now travel all over the country, to Selfoss, Stykkishólmur, Hólmavík, Borgarnes, Vík and Akureyri, to name a few. I watch in awe as my two teenage kids go anywhere they need to without having to bug their mum. I had been working up the courage for a few months and today I took the plunge. Preparing for this turning point in my life included an intense hour of looking at www. bus.is, having the 350 ISK ready in my hand, packing a lunch in case of … you know … and letting both my brother and my boyfriend know in advance what was about to happen for them to be on the alert in case of emergency. My heart was pounding as I sat down at the bus stop. My brother had gone over the procedure of letting the driver of the arriving bus know that I wanted to get on (we went through various stances and hand gestures, no joke) so when I saw my number drive up at an “allure d’enfer” I jumped to the curb faster than a grasshopper, there was no way I was going to screw this up. And lo and behold, the yellow monster pulled over, the door opened and I looked into the eyes of the driver, who was by the way completely unaware of the breakthrough taking place before him. I got on and the trip was absolute heaven, I looked out the window in complete relaxation, feeling so grown up and proud of myself (and admittedly texted ten of my closest friends and family informing them of what I was doing). When the vehicle stopped outside the University of Iceland, where I had indeed intended to get off, I simply could not stop smiling. The moral of the story: Strætó can take you anywhere. It’s comfy, relaxing and nice. Don’t be scared. Just do it.
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
bus.is bus.is
Travel in Iceland the smart way Get your free app and take the bus: Get your free app and take the bus:
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Get around Reykjavík easily and affordably Get around Reykjavík easily and affordably Day passes are available for the Reykjavík area. Day passes are available for the Reykjavík area.
ISK ISK ISK ISK
900 900 2,200 2,200
One-day pass: One-day pass: Three-day pass: Three-day pass: Where to buy: Strætó’sto ticket Where buy:offices, selected hotels and hostels in Reykjavík. The pass comes with a booklet that includes a route and tips on some cool Strætó’s ticket offices, selected hotels andmap hostels in Reykjavík. The pass places to visit with thethat bus.includes a route map and tips on some cool comes with a booklet places to visit with the bus. ind us on Facebook: facebook.com/Straeto ind us on Facebook: facebook.com/Straeto
Gildir:
Gildir til:
Gildir:
Gildir til:
Strætó Service Center Open every 07:00–22:00 Strætóday Service Center 540 2700 Open every dayTel. 07:00–22:00 Tel. 540 2700
THE CINEMA
FIRE, ICE AND THE NORTHERN LIGHTS
© Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson
by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson
Currently, all their screenings include a short feature about the recent eruption at Bárðarbunga, which started in August 2014. This includes cutting edge footage shot from a drone, which has drawn attention internationally, and which The Cinema was involved in creating. This footage in addition to other incredible and dramatic material is used to highlight the awesome power and beauty of the phenomenon. The Birth of and Island – the making of Iceland is a documentary focusing on how Iceland was made in volcanic eruptions and why it is so volcanically active. It shows the 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajökull, which famously grounded most European air traffic for a number of weeks. The movie uses the event to illustrate Iceland’s volcanic nature, explaining how Iceland was formed, giving the viewer a glimpse into the nature of this most volcanic island in the world and why volcanoes happen at all. 72 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
The Cinema is a cosy little movie theatre on the Old Harbour waterfront in the Reykjavik Centre, which offers a wide variety of different documentaries about everything from Volcanoes to Northern Lights to Glaciers made by the renowned Icelandic filmmaker Valdimar Leifsson. It has an impressive selection of scheduled shows as well as a possibility to book specifically a number of others, including films in German.
Chasing the Northern Lights is perfect for people who want to know all about this strange light show, as well as aspiring photographers who would like instructions about just how to shoot them. The documentary follows internationally well known Icelandic photographer, Ragnar Th Sigurdsson, as he hunts for and films the Aurora Borealis using some of the best photographic equipment available in Iceland. Animated graphics in the film explain the science behind the elusive lights, all the while the viewer is enjoying spectacular footage of the actual lights. Finally the Vatnajökull Glacier National Park documentary covers the science of glaciers and displays some incredibly beautiful footage of Vatnajökull, the largest ice cap in Europe, while giving a great insight into this biggest national park of Europe.
The Cinema’s location on the Old Harbour Waterfront, right in the Reykjavik City Centre, adds a creative flair to the bustling neighbourhood of whale watching companies, restaurants and cafés of every sort, bike rentals and other traveller’s services, which occupy the re-purposed fisherman’s wharf. It’s a great possibility to spice up your afternoon on the waterfront before catching some great seafood at one of the top-class restaurants nearby or going for a beer in town. Check their website thecinema.is for an up-to-date schedule of what movies they’re playing and when, as well as prices and other facts.
The Cinema Geirsgata 7b, Reykjavík Tel: +354 898 6628 www.thecinema.com Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
COME AND MEET
THE ICELANDIC HORSE IN PERSON
HORSE THEATER - RESTAURANT SHOP - VISIT THE STABLES At Iceland’s only horse park, Fákasel, visitors can meet the unique Icelandic horse, either at the stables or the daily horse theatre show. Restaurant serves fresh Icelandic food and is open daily from 10am to 10pm.
ONLY FROM M 30 IN. IK REYKJAV
icelandichorsepark.com
COMPLETING THE GOLDEN CIRCLE
GEOTHERMAL BATHS - NATURAL STEAM BATHS CAFÉ AND KITCHEN - GEOTHERMAL BAKERY
Geothermal Baths LAUGARVATN FONTANA • HVERABRAUT 1 • 840 LAUGARVATN • TEL: +354 486 1400 • www.fontana.is
helicopter tours We are at a total loss for words, this has got to be one of the best experiences of our lives.
reykjavik domestic airport info@helicopter.is • +354 562 2500
E&Co.
ICELANDIC WOOL
WORN OUT FOR CENTURIES We of fer clot h i n g & ot her mer ch a nd i s e t h at r em i nd s u s of go o d old Ic el a nd
– Visit our stores: 101 Reyk jav í k , A k u rey r i a nd G ey si r, Hau k ada l. w w w.gey si r.com –