My Destination Reykjavik Magazine - Summer 2016 by MD Reykjavik

Summer 2016

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Air Tours / Sightseeing Flights

Day Tours / Adventure Tours

Ice and Fire – Glaciers and Volcanoes

Experience excitement in Iceland’s pure nature or get a bird’s eye view of the country’s most beautiful places

A never-to-be-forgotten trip showing the sharply contrasting faces of Iceland’s natural features.

Visit our website eagleair.is for detailed information s on our air tours, day tours and charter service

BookingsandInformation t. +354 562 4200 e. info@eagleair.is w. eagleair.is Location: Behind Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Natura at Reykjavík Airport

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Hello and Welcome to Iceland My Destination Reykjavík is a local expert in the global My Destination Network. We specialise in giving out relevant, in-depth and up-to-date advice to travellers such as yourself, on our website and in our magazine - this magazine, the one you’re holding in your hands RIGHT NOW. In this magazine, you will learn about some of the best places to eat, shop, party, and go sightseeing, as well as how to get there, in addition to some practical tips and fun facts about Reykjavík and its surrounding areas. (For starters, check out the next article: “Where to Go, What to Do and How to Get There” - which aims to give you an overview over what there is and how to choose what’s best for you). This magazine aims to give you an insight into all things Reykjavík and the major highlights of the city; however, it is hard to explain to you the magic of Reykjavík on just 92 pages. To be properly informed about everything during your stay here in Iceland we highly recommend a visit to our website, www.mydestinationreykjavik.com. On the My Destination Reykjavík website you will find absolutely everything you could

possibly want to know about Reykjavík. The greatest thing about the My Destination network and what separates it from other travel sites is that it is filled with tips and reviews from locals who really know what they are talking about. My Destination Reykjavík is there for you whether you want to get to know the history of Iceland, learn about the culture, read about the restaurants you plan on eating at, book your accommodation, rent a car, find out What’s On in Reykjavík, browse through photos or load up on useful information. Basically we have everything you need to get informed and make the best of your trip. My Destination is a global travel resource that is powered by a diverse community of local experts. The local experts at My Destination Reykjavík are on the ground and have personally experienced what our destination has to offer. We make sure to produce comprehensive information in the form of travel articles, local tips, guides, reviews, videos and panoramic virtual tours. Let My Destination be your tour guide during your stay in Iceland and you will get more out of your experience than you ever thought was possible.

Reykjavik MyDestination Reykjavik Locally Informed, Globally Inspired. www.mydestinationreykjavik.com/

Published by MD Reykjavik ehf. Laugavegur 5, 101 Reykjavik. Publisher: Sigurþór Marteinn Tel.: 551-3600. E-mail: whatson@whatson.is MANAGING EDITOR: Hjörtur Atli Guðmunds. Geirdal, hjortur@whatson.is. EDITOR: Gréta Sigríður Einarsdóttir, greta@whatson.is

Printing: Oddi, Ecolabelled Printing Company Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the individual authors. While every effort has been made to ensure the information presented is accurate, prices, times, dates and other information may be subject to change.

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Content writers: Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir and the What’s On Team

Layout & design: Stefán Birgir Stefáns, sbs@sbs.is

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This magazine is published and distributed in exclusive collaboration with Reykjavik Excursions - a leading tour and coach operator in Iceland.

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OVERVIEW:

WHERE TO GO, WHAT TO DO AND HOW TO GET THERE by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson So you’ve landed in Iceland. What now? As you sit there on your tour bus, or in an information centre, enthusiastically leafing through this magazine, I’m sure you’re starting to realise that the biggest problem with travelling to Iceland is that there are TOO MANY awesome things to do. It’s enough to give anyone anxiety: should I bus around the magnificent sceneries or hang out in the museums? What’s the difference between the Golden Circle and the South Coast? Well put your mind to rest—here’s the quick-and-dirty overview of what is available and how to choose between them.

We’ll take you there!

In Reykjavík there are roughly two types of experiences: sightseeing tours on the one hand, and activities on the other. In addition, basically every tour has several ways of getting around, for instance you can ride the bus, take a Super Jeep tour, fly in a helicopter or hire a car. So let’s just break it down one by one. WHERE TO GO: SIGHTSEEING TOURS The Golden Circle is without a doubt the best known day tour in Iceland. What is it? A 300 km loop that usually opens and closes in Reykjavik. It covers three main locations: Þingvellir National Park, the waterfall Gullfoss and the erupting geyser Strokkur. Reykjavik Excursions, for instance, has this tour scheduled every day of the week, several times a day, all year round, with guidance in English, German, French and the Scandinavian languages. The question is: Why is it so popular? The fact is that there is a number of amazing places to see on day trips from Reykjavík, each with their own characteristics and amazing sights. Part of the reason the Golden Circle is a big deal,

I suspect, ironically, is because a lot of people go there. That being said, there’s a reason it’s popular, since there are some pretty unique things to be seen there: Þingvellir National Park is unique in two ways: it was the site of the Icelandic Viking Parliament from the year 930 to 1798, and it’s one of the best places in the country to see the tectonic drift— where the earth splits apart by about an inch a year. The Geysir Geothermal Area is unique in that it’s home to basically the only erupting hot spring in Iceland, Strokkur. And Gullfoss (the Golden Waterfall), is definitely one of the larger and more beautiful falls in Iceland. Whole day/Half day? The Golden Circle is basically a 6-hour excursion, but taking a whole-day tour usually adds something amazing for a relatively small increase in price. OTHER SIGHTSEEING TOURS FROM REYKJAVÍK There is a large number of destinations to day-trip from Reykjavik, each with their unique characteristics.

Reykjavik Excursions | 7

The South Coast is particularly good for waterfalls and black-sand beaches. The route takes you between a magnificent mountain range on one hand and the deep blue sea on the other—it’s a very scenic drive. You will see waterfalls Seljalandsfoss (our famous “walk-behind” waterfall), and the huge Skógafoss. It also offers the beach by Vík, with cool rock formations and basalt columns. Reykjanes is the peninsula on which the international airport in Keflavik resides, so if you’ve ridden the bus to Reykjavik, you’ve already got a taste of it. This area is one of the most geologically active places in Iceland. It has a number of geothermal areas and fumaroles, relatively fresh lava fields, rich history, quaint little folklore and, of course, the Blue Lagoon. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is directly north of Reykjavik. It has a number of quiet little towns which fill up with fishermen in the summer, the largest of which is Stykkishólmur—a beautiful, picturesque little town with many historic wooden houses. Finally, the coastline is filled with rock formations and interesting natural phenomena. We deal with Snæfellsnes more extensively in

the article “Journey to the Centre of the Earth and More,” on page 16. There are countless other places you could day trip from Reykjavik, but these encompass the major directions and areas you might choose to go. WHAT DO I DO WHEN I GET THERE? ACTIVITIES AROUND REYKJAVÍK Now we’ve covered the major places to go sightseeing, but what if you don’t just want to enjoy the scenery? What if you want to do something interesting and exciting while you’re there? Well, luckily there is no shortage of things to do in and around Reykjavík. There are too many to make a comprehensive list, so we recommend talking to a tourist information agent. However, some of the more exciting things are included in the box below. GETTING AROUND IN COMFORT AND STYLE - HOW TO GET THERE So now you know where to go and what to do, but how do you get there? In general, for day trips, you have the choice of a Helicopter, a Super Jeep excursion, a bus tour or renting a car. For most places, you will have most or all of these options, depending on the season and

the particular conditions. Helicopters are of course awesome, so if your budget can handle it, it’s an amazing way to see the scenery and get around. They also have shorter, more costeffective trips for those who just want to get a feel for it and get some excitement in their life. Super Jeeping is the more luxurious of the ground-based options, and they generally take you places where normal vehicles can’t (or shouldn’t) go. The bus is a classic way to get around— and as opposed to self-drive, you don’t have to worry about finding the way— while the tour guide tells you everything you want to know. Car Hire, or Self-drive is often the most cost-effective for two or more people and offers more freedom, but then you don’t have the service of a driver or a guide.

Horseback Riding: Anywhere, for instance in the Lava Fields of Reykjanes. Hot Spring Bathing: Everywhere - the Blue Lagoon is recommended. Whale Watching: This is great to do from the Reykjavík Old Harbour. If you’re going up north, Húsavík is also a great spot for this. Snowmobiling on a Glacier: This you can do both near the Golden Circle, on the South Coast and in the Snæfellsnes peninsula. Hiking on a Glacier: This is easiest to do on the South Coast. Snorkelling/Diving: Most people do this at Þingvellir National Park though you can go any number of places. Caving: Anywhere, but Reykjanes is good.

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Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

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Reykjavíku

Underground Wonderland Icelandic nature is beautiful, isn’t it? While looking out over majestic mountain ranges and moss-covered lava fields is certainly impressive, there’s almost as much to see under the ground as you see above it. What do I mean? Oh, just the literally thousands of caves, crevices and fissures hidden out of sight on this magnificent island. Iceland is mostly made up of relatively recent explosions of volcanic lava, from deep in the bowels of the earth. This means that there are all kinds of unusual geological phenomena scattered throughout the island. If you’ve driven past the lava fields of Reykjanes on your way from Keflavík airport, there are innumerable places where you can climb into and under the lava if you know where to look. Just within the borders of Reykjavík city there are more than a dozen lava caves. All of

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Iceland numbers over 500 caves that we know of - and it’s estimated we’ve found about 5% of them, meaning there may be as many as 10.000 caves in total.

a volcano starts to cool and harden on the outside, but then the fresher, hotter lava underneath keeps flowing, leaving a hole, corridor, or “vein” in its wake.

These caves are as beautiful as they are interesting – the soil, rich in minerals such as sulphur, takes bright red, orange, yellow, or even deep purple shades. Here they’ve rested, immobile, for thousands of years, untouched by human hand ever since the lava flowed and cooled in their strange and eerie formations. There are many different types of caves, but many of them are formed when the red-hot lava flowing from

INTO THE VOID It was into one such vein that I climbed, on a winter’s day almost as dark as the cave I climbed into. My friends and I were picked up from What’s On information centre downtown and we only had to drive for about a half an hour to get to the Blue Mountains, under which lay our destination. We came to the ominously named cave

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Leiðarendi, or Journey’s End. Kommi, our guide, handed us helmets with lights on and helped us scramble into the cave. Many caves are tall enough to stand in, but in this particular one, you don’t have to crawl, but you do kind of have to stoop. We were greeted in the cave by giant icicles, so of course I broke one off and used it for a popsicle (made from the purest water in the world!). It was a little slippery because it was still wintertime, so we had to tread carefully, but we felt totally safe in Kommi’s hands. We had to scuttle over some uneven spaces at some points, and squeeze though a couple of tighter spots, but it wasn’t very physically demanding and I would say even a person of a less-than-average physique should be able to do it pretty easily. I know that the company we went with, Iceland Expeditions, will choose the cave they explore based on the group they have each time, and that

they have both more and less demanding locations than the one we explored that day. We spent about a half an hour exploring the rocky depths of the cave which twisted and turned, getting slowly narrower as we went on. At one point we all stood still, held our breath and turned our flashlights off – the darkness was so thick you couldn’t see your hand in front of your nose, and the silence was complete like I’ve seldom experienced before. It was pretty awesome. A STORY FOR EVERY STONE Looking at the strange and dreamy shapes the lava tends to take, it’s not difficult to see how the people of Iceland came to associate these crevices with all manner of tall tales. There are countless stories associated with every cave you can name, stories of elves creeping from their lairs and snatching infants and replacing them with their own, much worse behaved, offspring.

(This no doubt often explained the seemingly quite spontaneous appearance of a screaming and belligerent little person in your home). Or the trolls, who would make a sneaky deal with you and then claim your first-born for dinner, before being tricked into standing in the morning sun, which would of course turn them into the craggy stone forms which meets your eyes everywhere. Whether it was because of mythical creatures or strange people, the caves all over Iceland, and the upper highlands in general, were kind of a no-go zone for much of Iceland’s long history. Today in the age of science, we’re not put off by bogeymen, we have hiking boots, helmets and foreheadflashlights, so we bravely venture into these holes in the earth without much of a second thought. We of course take good care, wear the latest safety gear, and recruit professional guides like we did for our October adventure with Iceland Expeditions. I wouldn’t have liked to go down there on my own, but with the aide of Kommi, I felt there was nothing holding us back. We emerged from the depths of the earth unscathed and carried on our merry way in search of even more adventures.

Iceland Expeditions Hólmaslóð, Reykjavík Tel: +354 777 0708 www.icelandexpeditions.is

We’ll take you there!

Reykjavik Excursions | 11

A Journey to the Center of the Earth and more Taking a glimpse of the wonders of Snæfellsnes Peninsula

by Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson

Snæfellsnes has everything and a bag of chips! The area is a microcosm of Iceland, easily reachable in a convenient Reykjavik Excursions day trip from Reykjavík. Prepare for majestic mountain views, black-sand beaches, a volcano and glacier rolled into one (a Volclacier? A Glaciano?) and, scattered around the scenery, quaint little towns full of stories. SNÆFELLSJÖKULL – THE ENTRANCE TO THE CENTRE OF THE EARTH. The reigning king of Snæfellsnes landmarks is without a doubt Snæfellsjökull glacier, which sits atop an active volcano on the tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. The volcano is 700.000 years old and has erupted about 20 times since the last ice age. In his book, “a Journey to the centre of the earth”, Jules Verne used Snæfellsjökull as the point of entry through which Lidenbrock and his team start their journey. Closer to home, the glacier is also the backdrop and titular glacier in Halldór Laxness’ “Under the Glacier”. In the park, among other things, you will find Djúpalónssandur beach, where you can test your strength with the three rocks, Strong, Full-Strong and Half-Strong. These were

used by sailors of ages past to compete in strength and the heaviest one is 154 kg! (339 pounds!) ARNARSTAPI Arnarstapi is a long-abandoned fishing village which comes to life in the summertime, with fishermen sailing from the harbour and people spending their summers in local cottages. It has a camp ground, an inn and a restaurant. Here you can hike around the surrounding area and enjoy the mind-blowing rock formations of the coastlines from the observation deck to which the RE tour will take you. STYKKISHÓLMUR Stykkishólmur is a picturesque and beautiful fishing town with only 1100 inhabitants, but this doubles in the

summertime with all the fishermen and tourists. It serves as the centre of transportation for the area - it’s where you catch the ferry for Flatey Island and Brjánslækur in the Westfjords. The town has many wooden houses from the 19th and early 20th century. The oldest of these is the Norwegian House, built in 1832, which now houses the local folk museum. Stykkishólmur also has a volcano museum and a swimming pool, among other things. That’s just a few of the countless interesting things to see, not even mentioning the scattered little farms, the area’s rich history (the peninsula was where the Saga of the Icelanders, one of the main historical sources of Iceland was written, as well as being the setting of the ancient Laxdæla), the magnificent Gerðuberg basalt columns, mountains like Helgafell and Hólahólar (the Hill-hills), and many other things. To learn more, book a trip and see for yourself! Tours of the whole area and all the sights are available through Reykjavik Excursions.

Reykjavik Excursions BSI Bus Terminal, Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 564 4776 www.re.is 12 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

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EXPERIENCE THE

REYKJAVIK CITY MUSEUMS Experience the history of Reykjavík in a lively and engaging way at the Reykjavík City Museum. The museum comprises five individual sites: ÁRBÆR OPEN AIR MUSEUM Kistuhylur, Reykjavík This unique museum gives visitors a tangible sense of Reykjavík’s past. It comprises a village-like collection of over twenty “homes,” each of which is a separate exhibition. Visitors learn how Reykjavík developed from a few scattered farms into the capital of Iceland. THE SETTLEMENT EXHIBITION & SETTLEMENT SAGAS Aðalstræti 16, Reykjavík In Aðalstræti 16 visitors can experience the settlement of Iceland in late 9th century through two remarkable exhibitions: The Settlement Exhibition which revolves around the actual remains of a Viking Age longhouse that have been preserved in situ. Settlement Sagas comprises some of the nation’s most renowned documents that are recognised by UNESCO as having

14 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

outstanding cultural value. Both exhibitions give an invaluable insight into the life and times of the first people to inhabit the Reykjavík area and the ways in which they adapted to their new environment. REYKJAVÍK MARITIME MUSEUM Grandagarður 8, Reykjavík The museum‘s permanent exhibition portrays the Icelandic fisheries at the turn of the 20th century, and realistically depicts the lives of Icelandic fishermen. Special attractions: the Coast Guard vessel Óðinn and the exhibitions Sea Women and For Cod’s Sake.

VIÐEY ISLAND Viðey Island is situated just off the coast of Reykjavík. In addition to beautiful natural surroundings, ancient ruins and rich historical background, you can also see the “Imagine Peace Tower” by Yoko Ono and “the Milestones project” by Richard Serra. The island is also the nesting ground for over 30 species of birds. For information about admission, opening hours and ferry schedule please visit our web www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is

REYKJAVÍK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY Tryggvagata 15, top floor. Visit exciting photographic exhibitions that focus on the capital’s rich history and contemporary culture. Free admission!

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLU 71197 10/14

AIRICELAND.IS

ACTION PACKED TOURS ICELAND AND GREENLAND Air Iceland is your West Nordic airline, offering scheduled domestic flights and flights from Iceland to the Faroe Islands and Greenland. Choose from a variety of day tour packages in Iceland, and to Greenland, which include flight, bus transfer and guidance. A FEW EXAMPLES

Day Tour

AKUREYRI AND SURROUNDINGS

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WATERFALL DETTIFOSS WINTER

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WORLD OF ICE AND DARKNESS

EASTERN LANDSCAPES

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CONTACT AIR ICELAND OR ANY TRAVEL AGENT FOR RESERVATIONS For more Day Tours, look at our website www.airceland.is websales@airiceland.is tel. +354 570 3030

adventure

A Wrist-Work of Art

by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

What springs to mind when you think of watchmakers? Do the words Swiss, old and tradition leap up there by any chance? I thought so. Now, think again because there is a new clocksmith in town and he’s proven that timeless innovation, superior craftsmanship and exquisite precision can be achieved even if your heritage does not include chocolate and the Alps. When Sigurður Gilbertsson, in association with his friends Grímkell Sigurþórsson and Júlíus Heiðarsson, approached his father Gilbert Ó. Guðjónsson, a watchmaker of 40 years, with the idea of them designing and producing their own collection, his father just laughed. Such a big production for such a small market seemed like a farfetched idea, no matter the accumulated expertise of the people involved. Today JS Watch co. has five collections and sells around 350 watches per year. When Gilbertsson’s father stopped laughing back in 2005 and this beautiful father and son venture became a reality, they created their own brand. They made only a 100 watches to begin with, to test the waters, so to speak. Within 6 months they were completely sold out. Since then, JS Watch co. has been making high-quality design watches and 16 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

watching them sell like hotcakes, proving beyond a doubt that quality clockmaking is not limited to the Swiss. For JS Watch co. the road to success was littered with obstacles, including but not limited to a collapse of the Icelandic banks and a complete change of the market landscape with the influx of tourists of the past year. They credit their achievements to, among other things, attention to details. “We not only take pride in our watches, but also our customer care. It’s very important for us that the people who buy our timepieces know the level of perfection we try and achieve. Although we aim to get that message across on our international sales, nothing can beat talking to someone face to face and welcoming them into our workshop.” Speaking of their workshop, among the many happy watch owners on their list

of clientele are men such as Quentin Tarantino, Viggo Mortensen and the Dalai Lama, not to mention the entire Icelandic Coastguard. JS Watch co. is the Coastguard’s official supplier of watches and the offshore emergency service exclusively uses the Sif North Atlantic Rescue Timer, which says it all regarding the brand’s reputation for durability and accuracy. So dropping in on Laugavegur 62 for a warm welcome and a tour of the exquisite watch collections of JS Watch co should without question be part of your Reykjavík tour, it’s the chance of a lifetime to get the watch of a lifetime!

JS Watch co. Laugavegur 62, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 4100 www.jswatch.com Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

PROBABLY THE

WORLD’S SMALLEST WATCH MANUFACTURER

Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection.

At JS Watch co. Reykjavik we’re committed to provide a personal quality service and we pride ourselves on the close relationships we have with our customers.

We’re always happy to assist and we provide a friendly and reliable service where our customers speak directly to the designers and manufacturers of the brand.

Scan it and learn more! www.jswatch.com

Gilbert Watchmaker, Laugvegur 62, 101 Reykjavik, tel + (354) 551 4100, www.jswatch.com

Carrying on the Tradition, a Knife at a Time The lovely Álafoss dell is home to several small businesses and various entrepreneurs. One of them is Páll Kristjánsson, known to everyone as Palli. He is the only professional knife smith in Iceland, which makes both him and his knives one-of-a-kind. Entering a knife-workshop is a unique experience, as I walked through the door, not only was I suddenly surrounded by blades, wood and reindeer antlers, but Palli’s dog, who is roughly the size of my car, got up to greet me with great enthusiasm. Luckily, Palli’s warm presence soon put me at ease. He is the only professional knife maker in Iceland and to be honest, I doubt that they make knifes like his anywhere else in the world either. The blades vary in being hand-made copies of Iron Age or Viking Age designs from Denmark, Damascus steel, or factory-produced blades from other parts of

Scandinavia. Each handle or hilt is hand-made by Palli from reindeer antlers, sheep and cow bone and hoof, whale tooth and bone, and 12 million-year-old trees (brown coal or fossils). He also uses various Icelandic stones and hikes both the highlands and lowlands of Iceland in search of materials; this man truly is the real thing. Not only that, but he also fashions the sheaths for the knives and they are no less exquisite. Using leather, tree and skin from cow, seal and fish, he creates a unique and fitting holster for each knife. Often, they too are intricately patterned with Viking symbols and carvings.

Palli makes knives for all occasions, both hunters and home cooks can find something to use among his wares. Because his knives are one-of-a-kind, they’re also sought after by collectors. Looking over his beautiful work, that comes as no surprise at all.

Knife Maker - Palli Kristjansson Álafossvegur 29, 270 Mossfellsbær Tel: +354 899 6903 www.kitchenknives.is

www.knifemaker.is

www.kitchenknives.is

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WELCOME TO

REYKJAVIK ART MUSEUMS Reykjavík Art Museum is housed in three unique buildings in the city centre and holds some of the most distinguished works in Iceland’s artistic landscape. CONTEMPORARY Hafnarhús (Tryggvagata 17) is the largest building in the network, located downtown by the harbour. Built in the 1930s, this refurbished fishery office and warehouse now houses permanent exhibitions of the works of Erró (b. 1932), one of Europe´s most notable pop artists, an enfant terrible of modern art and the embodiment of Iceland´s youthful artistic spirit. The temporary shows at Hafnarhús tend toward the progressive and experimental, emphasizing works from established modern artists, highlighting current notables and encouraging the works of newcomers. MODERN Kjarvalsstaðir (Flókagata 24) is the first building in Iceland designed specifically to display works of visual art. Its doors opened in 1973 and it is named after the painter Jóhannes S. Kjarval (1885-1972), one of Iceland´s most influential and recognized artists.

The most comprehensive collection of Kjarval´s works is on permanent display

building himself. The museum serves to honour his life and work, and displays

here, highlighting his range of styles as well his use of the local nature and mythology. A fine example of Nordic modernism, the building features floor-to-ceiling windows with a view of Klambratún Park.

the largest collection of his sculptures both inside and outside the building. Ásmundur´s art greatly reflects his lifelong interest in the Icelandic sagas, folk tales and classical mythology. The building itself is a magnificent work of architecture, largely inspired by the Egyptian pyramids and the mosques of the Middle East. Ásmundarsafn also houses temporary exhibitions and installations.

SCULPTURE Ásmundarsafn (Sigtún) is the former home and workshop of the sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson (1893-1982), who designed and mostly constructed the

Hafnarhús

Kjarvalsstaðir

Ásmundarsafn

Tryggvagata 17, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 590 1200 www.artmuseum.is

Flókagata 24, 105 Reykjavík Tel: +354 517 1290 www.artmuseum.is

Sigtún, 105 Reykjavík Tel: +354 553 2155 www.artmuseum.is

Open daily from 10 - 17 and from 10 - 20 on Thursdays. Guided tours every Thursday at 6 p.m. June- August.

Open daily from from 10 - 17. Guided tours every Friday at 1 p.m. June- August.

Open daily from from 10 - 17.

20 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Kolabrautin is on 4th floor Harpa

Reservations

+354 519 9700 info@kolabrautin.is www.kolabrautin.is

For a special evening with a view like no other A dinner at the elevated fourth floor of Harpa concert hall is a destination in itself. Relax and enjoy the best Icelandic produce complemented with a spectacular panoramic view of ReykjavĂk and the surrounding horizon.

Into the Belly of the Fiery Beast

(on a Tuesday Afternoon) I unexpectedly got a chance to go on the Inside the Volcano tour. I figured the chance to go INSIDE a volcano is worth re-organizing your day, so I made a few quick calls, borrowed an anorak, a warm hat and mittens, and I was on my way! It was a rainy and breezy day downtown as I walked down the hill from the booking agency to the Bus station. I arrived about 10 minutes early and the full bus pulled away a few minutes before the scheduled 14:00 departure. The ride out to Þríhnúkagígur took about 30 minutes, past green mossy fields and snow-covered mountains. Þríhnúkagígur is the only volcano in the world where you can go inside an empty magma chamber. Our guide explained that once a volcano stops erupting, the walls often cave in - transforming the volcano into a crater.

22 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

We arrived at a kind of visitor’s centre, where we received a brief overview of the journey to the volcano. We would take a 3km walk to basecamp, which I would rather call a hike; though there was little change in elevation, on this particular (May) day, the snow was deep enough that my hiking boots were completely covered! I was well dressed so I was alright, but I bet the guy with

the shorts and flip-flops had some second thoughts on the way! We had the wind at our back on the way to the base camp at Þríhnúkagígur. Along the way, our guide Birgitta pointed out some pseudocraters, which are only found in Iceland and on planet Mars. The journey to the base of the volcano took about 45 minutes.

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Once at basecamp, we had an opportunity to rest a bit and get a hot drink. They split us into groups of 3 or 4, and gave us helmets and harnesses for the short walk along the ridge, and subsequent descent into the volcano. We met up with more guides who I later discovered were seasoned mountain men, experts in determining if it’s safe to make the walk up to the volcano. We were told it was some of the most extreme weather they’d ever done it in, but we never felt unsafe – clearly we were in good hands. The walk along the ridge was in nearly hurricane force winds that day. It was quite exhilarating as, instructed by our guides, we held hands and- with our back to the wind- slowly made our way up to the mouth of the volcano. They hooked our harnesses to lines on the metal bridge as we walked to the lift, then secured us to the lift itself. The lift made it way slowly down, squeezing through spaces so tight that you could touch the inside of the volcano. And then suddenly, we were hanging in the gaping void. It’s

incredibly huge – taller than the Statue of Liberty – and the colors are amazing.

It wasn’t bad for a Tuesday afternoon. Not bad at all.

Once we landed, we had a free range to wander inside the volcano for about 30 minutes. There were bright orange lines marking out where it was safe to walk but I didn’t feel restricted at all. Even within those boundaries, it was wise to use a headlamp and step carefully as the ground is pretty uneven in a lot of places. I marveled at all the colors of the rocks- I expected browns and reds but not bright yellows, blues and greens!

I really recommend this experience for anyone interested in nature, geology, adventuring, mountaineering, or who just wants to do something unusual. As I mentioned previously, it’s the only place in the world where you can do this sort of thing – usually volcanos will collapse once they run out of magma, and if this kind of magma chamber exists anywhere else, there definitely isn’t a handy day tour to lower you into it by elevator.

It’s surprisingly silent inside the volcano. Aside from the slight hum of the elevator running and the hushed whispers of my fellow travelers, the mountain really blocks out all outside sounds. The melted snow and rain was gently falling down into the volcano. The drops caught bits of light as they fell in what seemed like slow-motion- it was so beautiful. The photos really don’t do it justice, it’s hard to capture the sense of serenity and peace and I sat silently and let the fact that I was laying down inside this powerful (now dormant) beast of nature wash over me.

That being said, though it is efficient, it doesn’t at all feel inauthentic or particularly “touristy” - our guides were real mountaineers and everything felt there very close to nature – the trek over the mountains, the walk along the ridge, even being exposed to the elements, gave the whole thing a very outdoorsy, adventurous feel. In all it’s a great way to experience the unique, mountainous and rocky nature of Iceland, to get out of the city, and a truly magnificent way to spend a day.

TIPS »» Take the weather into consideration. It can change quickly in Iceland and can be different on the mountains than it is in the city. »» Bring sunglasses. Whether it’s a surprise or not, Iceland is bright! »» Dress well and wear comfortable shoes. »» Bring an extra pair of socks in case your feet get wet. »» When inside the volcano, put away your camera or phone for a while and just enjoy it! We’ll take you there!

You can book your Inside the Volcano Tour at insidethevolcano.is, the nearest Tourist Information or your hotel lobby! Reykjavik Excursions | 23

A Food Designer with a Passion for Raw Foods

by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

To interview a restaurant owner at lunch time during the opening of her third restaurant was a phenomenally bad idea. After watching this tiny hurricane of a woman running around for a few minutes, I made a judgement call and told her I would be back in the afternoon, which retrospectively should have been my plan to begin with. Gló now has three raw food restaurants in the Reykjavik area. The owner and master chef, Solla Eiríksdóttir, has been involved in vegetarian and raw food cuisine for over 30 years. My first question, when I finally got her to sit down, was on how it all started. “I became a vegetarian before I was twenty. I was sick with allergies and food intolerance and was forced to choose between going on medication and completely changing my diet. I chose the latter and became a vegetarian, a life change that soon turned into passion for making good healthy food and spreading the gospel. Soon I started teaching vegetarian cooking and by 1994, I had my first restaurant. 16 years after my change, I found myself ready to try something new. That is when I gained interest in raw foods. I went to Puerto Rico in 1996 to study raw cooking. So I entered the world of raw rather early. “ According to Solla, people tend to connect “healthy” with “bad taste” in their minds. Her objective is to obliterate that connection by making raw food based on recipes and ideas that people already know and love. “My goal is to slowly but surely root out the prejudice and misconception that people have regarding raw food. In 25 years, the option of having raw meals will 24 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

have become as common and natural as the vegetarian alternative is today.” The road to reform is long and winding and Solla takes her role very seriously. “I am extremely passionate about this. Instead of turning my belief that raw food makes everything better just onto myself, I have spent the last 17 years inventing and developing recipes that turn what people already know into raw food. As a result, my restaurants offer pizza, enchiladas, sushi and lasagne, all according to the raw ideology. The idea is to get people to have a taste, to like it and to come back.“ But what exactly does the raw concept embody? According to Solla, it is a cooking method that entails heating the food to only 42-47°C. That way the enzymes in the food can be preserved in order to give the human body a chance to maintain its selfhealing abilities. This applies to vegetables, fruit, nuts, seeds and corn. But in order to get people on board, Solla adds a twist: “Our restaurants always have on offer six to nine types of salads, one raw dish, one cooked vegan or vegetarian dish and one chicken dish. We cook the chicken in a simple manner and then we add the raw sauces and good spices to get people used to the raw taste and texture. The purpose of this twist is to enable people who enjoy

good raw and vegetarian food to come here and eat with their friends or spouses who do not share their taste in food … yet” she says and laughs. Her endeavours have not gone unnoticed outside of Iceland. Solla has been voted “Favourite Raw Gourmet Chef” and “Favourite Raw Simple Chef” in the annual Best of Raw contest, which accepts nominations and votes through their website bestofrawfoods.com. This is indeed an exceptional honour for her and a priceless praise for Gló. Towards the end of our meeting, I asked this ridiculously busy woman if she never gets tired. She smiled and said: “Yes, but I have so much passion. The passion keeps me going. The days have been long in preparing the opening of the new restaurant, but I have been giddy as a little girl from excitement. I am so utterly convinced that Hippocrates was right when he said that we are what we eat. People are just people, they all have to eat. I want them to eat well and feel welcome.

Gló Laugavegur 20b, 101 Reykjavík Engjateigur 19, 105 Reykjavík Strandgata 34, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 553 1111 www.glo.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Welcome to Gló Restaurant AT LAUGAVEGUR Gló is Iceland’s most popular health food restaurant in Reykjavik. Gló offers different set menu everyday: Raw food, chicken, a vegetarian dish and soup. Tasty desserts, coffee, tea and delicious juices are offered as well.

Laugavegur 20b · Open every day 11–22 · Tel 553 1111 · www.glo.is · #gloiceland

The Wonders of Volcanoes You’ll find the Volcano House near the old harbour, close to Reykjavík’s city centre. It gives guests a glimpse of how erupting volcanoes and earthquakes can be part of daily life in Iceland. AN ICELANDIC VOLCANO IS THE REASON FOR DEMOCRACY AS WE KNOW IT The 1783-4 eruption of Laki, one of the biggest Icelandic volcanoes, was history’s biggest eruption. When it erupted, the ash darkened the sky over all of Europe for years. It also caused widespread crop failures and the resulting famine all over Europe almost certainly was one of the causes of the French revolution of 1789. When the people ran out of bread and were told by their rulers that they should “eat cake” instead, they revolted, resulting in the first modern democracy as we know it.

ICELAND HAS THE ONLY ISLAND SCIENTISTS HAVE BEEN ABLE TO OBSERVE AND DOCUMENT FROM THE MOMENT OF ITS CREATION: SURTSEY Surtsey was formed by a volcanic eruption at the bottom of the ocean and emerged from the water on November 14, 1963. It was immediately granted protection by law and to this day, only scientists are allowed to go there, and even they have to get special permission. This means that we have been able to monitor how life settles on a brandnew land from the beginning, and has of course been invaluable to scientists.

NOT JUST ONE, BUT TWO OF THE BIGGEST ERUPTIONS IN THE RECORDED HISTORY OF THE WORLD, OCCURRED IN ICELAND! Laki was, as I said, the biggest eruption in recorded history, measured by volume of lava. But Iceland was also recently the site of the second biggest emission in recorded history: the 2014 eruption of Bárðarbunga. In just 6 months, Bárðarbunga produced enough lava to cover the island of Manhattan – 85km2. And Laki? That produced 370 km2 of lava – the size of the Gaza strip – in only 50 days!

1/3 OF ALL THE EARTH’S FRESH LAVA ORIGINATED IN ICELAND! When you’re discussing volcanoes, all concepts that have something to do with time get a bit skewed. For instance, fresh lava means lava emissions on earth since the year 1500. The reason for this impressive amount of liquid rock spewing to the surface is because not only does Iceland sit on top of a crack between two tectonic plates, it’s also on top of a geologic hot spot. Even so, for such a small island, that’s a lot of lava!

ICELAND HAS A VOLCANIC ERUPTION EVERY 4-5 YEARS! This isn’t surprising considering the island has more than 100 volcanoes, split into different volcanic systems. About 30 different systems are still considered “active” in Iceland, and 13 of them have erupted since the Viking Settlement in 874. WANT TO GET UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH THE VOLCANOES OF ICELAND? To learn more about Icelandic volcanoes, visit the Volcano House by the old harbour. Along with a mineral exhibition, the Volcano House has an hourly Volcano Show, featuring two documentaries on two of Iceland’s biggest eruptions. The first is about the eruption in the Vestmannaeyjar Islands in 1973. The small fisherman community was suddenly under attack in the middle of the night, without warning, forcing nearly 5,000 locals away from their homes. The second film documents the infamous eruption in Eyjafjallajökull 2010. This massive eruption caused thousands of flight cancellations, leaving millions of people stranded. The mineral exhibition gives an overview of Iceland’s geological history and volcanic systems. A large collection of semiprecious rocks and minerals, as well as ash and lava, is also on a display.

Volcano House Tryggvagata 11, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 555 1900 www.volcanohouse.is 26 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

Spectacular Wh Walk Amongst the Giants

REYKJAVÍK HARBOUR

DA GA

RÐ UR

We are here GR AN

SK I

SL ÓÐ

Come and see full-scale models of the 23 whale species that have been found off Iceland’s coastal waters. Walk amongst life-size models, check out the interactive media and explore these majestic creatures in our family-friendly exhibition.

HARPA

ATA

ÁN

AU ST

MÝRARG

WELCOME TO OUR CAFÉ | SHOP FOR SOUVENIRS | BOOK A WHALE WATCHING TOUR | A UNIQUE VENUE FOR YOUR EVENT

E N N E M M / S Í A / N M 7578 5

hale Exhibition “Have a whale of a time!” OK, whales are big. We all know that, but to find out just how big is a revelation. This place has life sized models of many different breeds, and several skeletons too. There’s also a lot of info, and you soon learn that whales are pretty special creatures.

Download our AUDIO GUIDE APP

The modern way to learn about the whales.

Fiskislóð 23-25 | Reykjavík | Tel. +354 571 0077 | www.whalesoficeland.is

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Why the

Golden Circle

is Iceland’s biggest tourist attraction If you ask any Icelander what you should see while you’re in Iceland, you’re going to get the same answer. Do the Golden Circle! Why the Golden Circle, you ask? Isn’t all of Iceland beautiful, what’s so special about this specific loop of road? Well, reader, I’m glad you asked…

We’ll take you there!

THE MAIN ATTRACTIONS Let’s start with the basics. The Golden Circle is a 300 km loop of road that usually opens and closes in Reykjavik. It covers three main locations: Þingvellir National Park, the waterfall Gullfoss and the erupting geyser Strokkur in Haukadalur, but on the way you pass all kinds of different landscapes and views. ÞINGVELLIR The first stop on the Golden Circle is usually Þingvellir (pronounced Thing-vet-leer), although some rebels like to start at the reverse end. Þingvellir is an amazing location in several different ways. To begin with, it’s of great historical importance to the Icelandic nation, as it was where the Icelandic parliament was founded in 930, shortly after island’s settlement, and for almost a thousand years after that it was where the Alþingi (parliament) gathered. This Viking government institution was centuries ahead of its time. Even though Iceland forfeit their independence in the thirteenth century, the

Alþingi still had some power and has met at regular uninterrupted save for a few decades during the 19th century. Some of the major matters of Icelandic history have been settled at Þingvellir, for instance, it was there were it was decided in the year 1000 AD that Icelanders would convert to Christianity, although they left a little wiggle room for the heathens, (they basically said that people could still worship the old gods, just as long as they didn’t do it in public). Þingvellir is also where Iceland was declared an independent nation in 1944. In addition to the area’s historical importance, it’s also quite impressive from a geological view. As you might know, Iceland is a volcanic island and it’s on the rift between the Eurasian and American tectonic plates. At Þingvellir you can actually see that rift. Last but not least, Þingvellir is an exceptionally beautiful area, with rocky cliffs, waterfalls, clear-as-glass lakes, fissures where you can dive and incomparable views.

Reykjavik Excursions | 31

GULLFOSS When you are able to tear yourself away from Þingvellir, you head on towards Biskupstungur, where the other two attractions are situated. First up is Gullfoss, a waterfall in Hvítá. Simply describing Gullfoss as a waterfall might be accurate but in order to do it justice, you’re going to need to get more descriptive. Gullfoss is actually a two-tiered, constant display of the thundering power nature is able to unleash when it gets its act together. The amount of water frothing white over cliffs and roaring down into a deep canyon is almost unbelievable until you see it with your own eyes. The best part about Gullfoss is that it’s still relatively unspoilt by humans. There’s just some wooden steps down from the road and a walking path, with a safety rope, up to the spot where the waterfall can best be viewed. This means you have to be careful and watch yourself while you’re there, but it also meant that you can enjoy the splendour of the unobstructed view, just like nature intended it. GEYSIR When you leave Gullfoss, you’ve seen all you need to see of water streaming down, now it’s time to see it go in the other direction. Iceland has a few examples of one of nature’s most amazing spectacles, geysers, or erupting hot springs. The Geysir geothermal area is named for Geysir, one of the most famous geysers in the world, and the one that gave them their name. Unfortunately, due to geological shifts in the earth, it doesn’t erupt regularly any more, but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to see. Strokkur, Geysir’s neighbour puts on a show every 6-8 minutes, blowing hot water high into the air. All around them are pools of schorching hot water, some muddy, others clear and yet others bubbling like cauldrons. Icelanders have loved visiting Geysir for a long time, for instance, tourists have been able to get coffee and refreshments there since 1928!

THE BONUSES Now you know what amazing natural phenomena you can see on the Golden Circle, but if you’re still not sure why you should choose that over all the other amazing places in Iceland, allow me to tell you about some of the other qualities the Golden Circle has. It’s convenient – The whole tour is in the vicinity of the city, meaning that you can leave in the morning, take your time around the sights, stop for lunch and still be back by the afternoon. Also, guided tours are easily available all year round. It’s adaptable – If you want to make a day of it, there are all kinds of activities in the area that you can add to your tour. A lobster dinner in a fishing village by the sea, a visit to a geothermal power plant, snowmobiling on a glacier and, in the winter, a Northern Lights excursion are just a few examples. It’s just gorgeous. Need I say more?

32 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

ALL THE ICELANDIC BEERS IN ONE AWESOME PLACE

From City Lights to Super Jeeps by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir & Rögnvaldur Guðmundsson

Have you ever been on top of a glacier? You won’t believe this magical realm of white plains above the world. There isn’t a better way to explore it than the excitement and comfort of a snowmobile. Snowmobiles are great fun and easy to operate. All the Mountaineers’ snowmobiles are two seated touring sleds with hand warmers and a high windshield. Participants can choose between a double and a single ride, so just stick the kids in the back seat and get going!

The Mountaineers of Iceland offer day tours where 1 hour of snowmobiling is included: The Express Activity Tour and the Pearl Tour. The Pearl Tour takes you on the Golden Circle, but with a snowmobiling twist. This tour allows visitors to get in touch with some of Iceland’s most famous and exciting natural phenomena and add a glacial adventure to it. It takes you to all the must-sees; Þingvellir National Park, Geysir hot spring, Gullfoss (The Golden Waterfall) and then they kick the action into high gear to get even

closer to Iceland’s nature and go for a snowmobiling tour on Langjökull, Iceland’s second largest glacier. If you have a knack for adventure and the need for speed, this day trip offers Iceland’s best and then some. To be the operator of an open motorized vehicle on your way up to the second largest glacier of a volcanic island will introduce you to a feeling to which there is no comparison. Mind you, everybody is allowed to go at their own pace to start with and if you would rather double up with your partner and sit in the back, the experience will still provide you with something to share with your grandchildren. If you are on a tight schedule while staying in our beautiful country, the Express Activity Tour might be more suitable for you. It takes you to Langjökull glacier or a snow area in the mountains. Once there, you will embark upon an exhilarating one-hour snowmobiling tour across endless white fields of snow. This is a great way to combine the experience of some awe-inspiring scenery and adrenaline-filled activities.

34 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

For the Mountaineers, safety is important, so just remember to bring your driver’s licence. Everyone engaged in their activity service operations have extensive experience in the tourism industry and in activity operations and the strictest safety standards are always employed. All participants are provided with necessary gear like warm overalls, helmets, boots and gloves. THAT’S JUST THE BEGINNING... The Mountaineers offer a wide variety of tours including jeep excursions, combinations with other activities and more! In addition to the Pearl Tour and the Express Activity Tour, there is, for instance, the Þórsmörk & the South Coast which takes you, as the name implies, to the south coast of Iceland and to Þórsmörk. On the way you will see the waterfall Seljalandsfoss, before heading north to the highlands of Þórsmörk—a virtually untouched wilderness of magnificent mountains and unbridged rivers. It’s a wild ride! The Northern Lights Hunt takes you in the comfort of a super jeep to hunt for the northern lights, wherever they may be seen. The agile trucks can go where most other vehicles can’t, and the drivers are experienced and adept at finding the best places to see the lights. With the Northern Lights and Snowmobiling at the Top of the World, you can combine the best of both, riding your vehicle across the milky white pastures in the dead of night while the Aurora Borealis play up above. This is all in addition to a myriad of day tours like the Monster Quest, which takes you to sites connected to legends and folklore, Quad Biking in the wilderness, and the Glacier & Desert Tour to Western Iceland. SUPER JEEPS AND TRUCKS The Mountaineers own and operate a number of Super Jeeps and trucks which have been specially modified to get to glaciers and other remote areas by the rugged mountain tracks of the highlands,

inaccessible by normal cars. Their Super Jeeps have extra-large tires, 38 to 44 inches, so they can get their guests to areas that no other vehicles can. All the Mountaineers’ Jeeps have radio transceivers for communication between cars and a GPS Satellite Navigation System so whether you want to go on a scheduled trip or design your own Icelandic adventure, you are in good hands. The Mountaineers recently upgraded a large part of their truck fleet to “super luxury”. They have a new 8X8 and a 10X10 truck, both specially designed based on the Mountaineers’ extensive experience of Iceland’s mountain roads, and equipped with very most comfortable seats, heat management, speaker system, wi-fi and the very cutting edge of safety equipment. They are especially adapted to Icelandic conditions, capable of going where buses can’t go, and perfect for a group of adventurers, family reunions, bachelor parties. The 8X8 Luxury Super Jeep seats 49 people and is specially made out of a MAN-truck’s 460 horsepower engine and driver’s compartment, the chassis of a German army truck and the passenger

We’ll take you there!

space of a bus. It is 14 meters (45 ft) long, 3.8 meters (12 ft.) tall, 2.5 meters (8 ft.) wide and it drives on 58 inch tires, has integrated guidance, and facilities for serving soup and coffee. The custom built 10X10 truck is made of the driver’s compartment and chassis of a GINAF 10X10 truck, and a DAF bus. It measures 13.6 meters long (44 ft.), 3.8 meters tall (12 ft.) and 2.55 meters (8 ft.) wide, drives on 54 inch tires, is powered by a 480 horsepower MAN engine and has allwheel-drive. They are about the largest conceivable street-legal vehicles you could possibly fashion in Iceland and they can get to some amazing places you wouldn’t dream of going in a normal car. We definitely recommend the Mountaineers for anyone who is looking to take a step out of ordinary life, and experience the majestic Icelandic nature up close.

Mountaineers of Iceland Skútuvogur 12e, 104 Reykjaík Tel: +354 580 9900 www.mountaineers.is Reykjavik Excursions | 35

VATN AJÖKU L S ÞJ ÓÐ GARÐ U R NAT ION AL PARK

We are proud to welcome you to Vatnajökull National Park!

Vatnajökull National Park is Iceland’s newest protected area, established in 2008. With a total area of roughly 13.950 km2 it is by far the largest national park in Iceland as well as in Western Europe.

Gljúfrastofa

Key features of the park are the ice cap of the Vatnajökull Glacier (8,200 km2) and several highly active volcanic systems within and outside the ice cap. The interplay of ice and fire is the single most important force in shaping the nature of the park. As a result, one can find in one place an unparalleled range of volcanic-, geothermal- and other landscape features. We offer information at our three Visitor Centres, Gljúfrastofa, Snæfellsstofa and Skaftafellsstofa. Information Centres are situated at Kirkjubæjarklaustur and Höfn. More information at our website www.vjp.is

GLJÚFRASTOFA

Húsa- Ásbyrgi vík Hljóðaklettar

Ísafjörður

Snæfellsstofa

Gamlabúð

Dettifoss

Egilsstaðir

SNÆFELLSSTOFA

Askja Snæfellsnes

©Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson

Skaftafellsstofa

Hvannalindir Snæfell

Kverkfjöll Nýidalur

GAMLABÚÐ Höfn

Jökulheimar Eldgjá Laki Kirkjubæjarklaustur

Vík

Skaftafell

Heinaberg

SKAFTAFELLSSTOFA SKAFTÁRSTOFA

Skaftárstofa

©Guðmundur Ögmundsson

Dettifoss

Svartifoss

©Regína Hreinsdóttir

©Guðmundur Ögmundsson

Hiking Geldingafell, Snæfell in the distance

Morsárdalur

©Einar Ragnar Sigurðsson

Langisjór

For more information on Vatnajokull National Park, please visit our website www.vjp.is

PORT hönnun

Askja and Lake Öskjuvatn

The Gem of Reykjavík by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

Perlan, (The Pearl in English) opened in June 1991. It is one of the capital’s most distinctive landmarks and an amazing construct, a gigantic dome that connects six geothermal water tanks, who each has the capacity to store 4 million liters of geothermal water. Situated on the top of Öskjuhlíð hill, The Pearl can be seen from all over and is one of the greatest locations for sightseeing in the Reykjavík area. A CONSTRUCT LIKE NO OTHER The dome is made from glass and steel bars that not only connect the water tanks and form the dome-like structure, but also supply the building with heat. The steel shell is, in fact, a gigantic radiator. In cold weather during the winter, warm water flows through the steel shell. In the warm summer days, cold water flows through the shell and serves as a cooler. That is how the temperature within the dome is regulated to keep an even temperature all year round and make this beautiful construction truly amazing. There is much to see within this remarkable structure. The fourth floor cafeteria is surrounded by a broad deck from which you can enjoy a panoramic view of the city. On a bright day, the view there is simply spectacular. Another fun feature is the indoor

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geyser imitation. This powerful gadget creates an indoor hot spring that can reach meters into the air. Quite intense actually! A VIEW FROM THE TOP The pearl within The Pearl is the restaurant on the top floor. With its rotating floor and an unparalleled view, it is one of the most popular restaurants in Reykjavík and rightfully so. The Pearl is a landmark that should not be overlooked by anyone who visits our nation’s capital and the same goes for the restaurant. It is only fitting to mix the magnificent view and impressive architecture with food prepared by some of Iceland’s greatest chefs. Some of the Pearl’s chefs are even members of the Club des Chefs des Chefs, a membership of chefs who prepare food for presidents and other national leaders and VIP’s. I have had the pleasure of dining in the Pearl’s restaurant on several occasions, and it really is an absolute favourite of mine. Whether it is their wild game buffet, their Christmas buffet or a la carte, whatever the occasion, the Pearl offers nothing but impeccable service and exquisite food. One thing to note is that Perlan restaurant places high emphasis on serving only food they made from scratch. As such, you’ll find that the delicious ice cream served is made on location, by the highly qualified staff. Likewise, their bread, pastry and other such items are made right there. This is in line with the quality focus that surrounds every aspect of the Perlan Restaurant. Dining there, one can really sense that everyone is working towards the same goal – that of customer satisfaction.

But that is not all. Dining there comes with a very special feeling which is difficult to put into words. I guess that the word which is best suited to describe this experience is festive. Not only does it feel both classy and fancy, but it has the ring of true celebration, to dine below this huge dome, seated on a rotating floor with a view of the entire capital, the mountains, the ocean, and if you are there at night in the wintertime, the city lights and the stars. It makes me feel like a princess. And that, my friends, is a feeling that I like.

Perlan Öskjuhlíð, 105 Reykjavík Tel: +354 562 0200 www.perlan.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

The Icelandic Horse A Faithful Servant and a Loyal Companion The Icelandic horse is as iconic for Icelandic culture as volcanoes, Björk and Þingvellir. This breed of horse (and make no mistake, it’s a horse, not a pony) is unique for many reasons, its colours, size and fur, for example, but their most famous quality is the fifth gait, tölt. It’s perfectly suited to the rocky Icelandic landscape, with its smooth pace. THE BACKSTORY Thousands of people in Iceland keep horses simply for the pleasure of riding and enjoying the companionship of these wonderful animals. The popularity of travelling on horseback has been growing continuously and Icelandic horsemen are considerate and respectful when it comes to both nature and their horses. The history of the Icelandic horse goes back to the country’s settlement in the late 9th century and the breed has remained isolated for over a thousand years. There is and has always been only one breed of horses here – The Icelandic Horse. For centuries the horse was the only means of transportation and also the most important working animal, through the years it has been referred to as “our most essential servant”. Today there are close to 80.000 horses in Iceland, an incredible number for a nation of 300.000 people. The horse is used for riding, travelling and competition purposes and still plays a practical role in the annual sheep and horse round-ups in the highlands. A FIRST CLASS RIDING CENTRE Íshestar is a 30-year-old company and one of the most well-established horse rentals in Iceland. They provide scheduled day tours, country side tours and highland tours up to 10 days long with airport transfer, full board and accommodation. This is the real thing.

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The Íshestar Riding Centre is unique here in Iceland with first class facilities set in the beautiful surroundings just outside Reykjavík and endless possibilities in riding, hiking and other outdoor activities. The company also offers boat trips, jeep safari and horse shows on demand and their Riding Centre includes a spacious restaurant with a fully licensed bar. TOURS ON HORSEBACK The scheduled tours vary in shapes and sizes from half hour tours for children to ten days of riding in the highlands. The many various day tours include riding in the wonderful surroundings at Hafnarfjörður and other locations but also mixing and matching horse riding with a visit to the Blue Lagoon, whale watching, biking, hiking and seeing the Northern Lights, to name a few. For longer trips, the country side and highland tours offers many irresistible possibilities, I urge you to visit the Íshestar website to see what I mean. I myself have had the pleasure of exploring the Icelandic highlands on horseback on several occasions. There is absolutely nothing like it. If you have the remotest interest in horses (and honestly, even if you don’t) and are ready to explore the highlands of our beautiful volcanic island, I guarantee you that Íshestar will take you on the adventure of a lifetime.

Íshestar Sörlaskeið 26, 221 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 555 7000 www.ishestar.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

ENJOYING THE LARGEST JACUZZI IN THE WORLD: PRICELESS Enjoy your stay in Iceland, where you are as welcome as your MasterCardÂ®

A Paradise off the Beaten Track Just off the beach, in an unassuming building blending in with the nature around it, lies Nauthóll bistro. The restaurants in the city centre are mostly superb, but this hidden gem, outside the bustle of Laugavegur is a refreshing change of pace. As much as I love the many lovely restaurants downtown, coming to Nauthóll always feels like a special treat. As you enter the modern, Scandinavian-looking building, you’re greeted with a gorgeous view of the beach and surrounding nature through the large windows, as well as a beautiful natural light. Just like the building itself, the interior décor, the tableware, even the food itself is all served in a beautifully simple style. The clean, clear lines of the restaurant itself, harmonise beautifully with the ingredient-forward and come together to create an experience that is the height of Scandinavian style, with a nod to the uniquely Icelandic aesthetic (look for the lopapeysa-patterned staff uniforms, for example).

It’s easy to feel a strong connection to nature while spending time at Nauthóll, which is why, for me at least, the cherry on top of the eating experience is the fact that the restaurant is dedicated to being as nature-friendly and green as possible in all stages of their operation. In 2012 they even qualified for the Nordic eco label, the Swan. The label is awarded to companies that have proved that they do everything in their power to minimise their effect on the environment. Now, for me at least, all the style and environmental heroism in the world wouldn’t be enough for me to like, let alone love, a restaurant, if the food wasn’t up to par. Luckily, the chefs of Nauthóll know their stuff. The food matches the surroundings perfectly, making Nauthóll a great place for lunch, an afternoon coffee or a dinner, although I must admit, sometimes the food isn’t even necessary, a glass of white wine on the terrace on a sunny afternoon can be just as enjoyable. The hardest thing about a visit to Nauthóll is leaving the tranquil environment and heading back to the city. I manage, barely, but will look forward to many visits like this to Nauthóll and Nauthólsvík this summer.

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Nauthóll Bistro Nauthólsvegi 106, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 599 6660 www.nautholl.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

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Travel Iceland On Your Own Iceland On Your Own (IOYO) is a simple, convenient, flexible and affordable way of getting around Iceland. It’s a system of bus routes all over the country that are bookable either individually or in different, extra-affordable packages, called passports. Passports mean you can hop on and off the bus at your leisure, making for an extremely flexible itinerary. The balance between reliability and flexibility makes IOYO an ideal mode of transportation for more independent and self-reliant people - a bit like Interrail for Iceland, without the trains. The buses are modern and comfortable and the fleet includes 4X4 coaches capable of traversing the difficult roads of the highlands, making you free as a (flightless) bird! All of the routes in the south have an audio-guide, and some of the routes in the North have a guide-guide, so in a manner of speaking, you’re getting both transportation and a tour. THERE AND BACK AGAIN One of the most popular destinations for our more adventurous travellers is the ‘Mountain’s back’, or Fjallabak area north of Mt. Eyjafjallajökull volcano, in the south of Iceland. This includes the Fimmvörðuháls hike, from Skógar to Þórsmörk, and

the Laugavegur hike from Þórsmörk to Landmannalaugar. One issue with this hike is the transport – if you drive to Skógar and hike to Landmannalaugar, are you going to hike the whole way back again to get to your car? And are you going to pay for a rental car to be parked somewhere for 3 days? The Highland Hiker’s Passport is an easy solution to these issues. It takes you once from Reykjavík out to either Skógar, Þórsmörk or Landmannalaugar, and once back to the city from any of the three locations. (Just to be clear, it does not mean that you can hop on and off those buses all summer. Once out, once back, that’s what you get.) The specially outfitted 4X4 coaches can handle the rough roads to Landmannalaugar and ford the rivers on the way to Þórsmörk, so you can just sit back and enjoy the wild ride.

ONE RING-ROAD THAT TOTALLY RULES You may have heard the famous rumour that Iceland only has one road. While that’s technically untrue, it’s a fact that Route 1 is by far the longest and most used road, and it does circle the whole way around the main part of the island. With the Circle Passport you get to go once round the merry-go-round. You can get off wherever you want and back on again, until you get back to where you started from. Definitely recommended for those who want to see the major sights in a convenient, affordable and flexible way. OTHER PASSPORTS The Highland Pass takes you in a circle, to the north of Iceland along mountain road Kjölur, and then south along Sprengisandur, along the south coast and back to ReykjavÌk, hopping on and off as you please along the way. The Highlights Pass includes a wider area and some of Iceland’s most beautiful natural wonders, where you can travel back and forth along the chosen routes for 7 or 15 days. The Combo Pass is like the Highlights Pass, but includes all the travel you can do on ALL the IOYO routes, for either 7, 11 or 15 days. So whether you’re a young backpacker, out for some fun with your family, a rugged hiker, adventurous retiree, whether you’re here with friends, loved ones or on your own, if you’re looking for the hidden places off the beaten track or just the tried and tested highlights of Iceland, Iceland On Your Own has something to offer you in a convenient, customizable and cost-effective way. Check out their offering today and find the package you need!

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The Kingdom of Steak by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir Argentína Steakhouse is a special place to walk into. The entrance is rather inconspicuous but after entering you find yourself in an almost medieval passageway that leads to a heavy wooden door. Behind it awaits a fairytale kingdom in terms of good food. ONCE UPON A TIME … The restaurant is not big, located on the first floor of Barónstígur 11, seating 80-100 people. I remember when I first came there in 2003. I was accompanied by a man whose interest in food was, and still is, a bit uncanny but at the same time absolutely adorable. We had only just sat down in our comfy booth surrounded by woodwork and heavy South-American decorations when he said: “I know we haven’t tasted the food yet but I already really, really like this place.” … THERE WAS A PRINCE. Argentina Steakhouse was founded in 1989 and has since then been one of the best restaurants in Reykjavík. It’s been owned by the same man since three months after it was founded, which makes it special. It’s also only had three head chefs in all that time, which makes it unique. The

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taste of their char-grilled beef and lamb is unparalleled and much to the surprise of many, given this is a steakhouse, their fish menu is also out of this world with carefully selected fish, shellfish and lobster. There is simply nothing like having the purest ingredients in the world grilled on wooden coals. Add the roaring fireplace, the leather sofas and chairs and fine selections of wines and this will be a night to remember. Argentina was the first steakhouse in Iceland to offer steaks by weight and some of the courses on the menu have been there for the almost quarter of a century since the restaurant opened. The Icelandic ox and lamb have remained unchanged since the settlement of Iceland some 1000 years ago. The ox has a small body compared to elsewhere; it develops slowly which makes the meat more stable and the muscles finer and more time for fat build-up. The Icelandic lamb is organic by nature; it is 100% drug free and feeds on herbs and shrubs in the Icelandic highlands that give it a gourmet game taste which is nowhere else to be found, and everybody knows that Icelandic seafood is the best in the world. When this is mixed with tradition, history, rustic leather, wooden interiors and impeccable service you get, the experience of dining out in Reykjavík becomes something else.

… AND HIS MOTHER. I have been to Argentina every year since that evening in 2003 with the same guy. After that first evening he insisted on us making this an annual thing. We are about to make reservations for our thirteenth consecutive year in dining at Argentina Steakhouse on his birthday, he turns 23 in November. The atmosphere surrounding me dining out with my son on his big day has changed somewhat. Instead of drinking soda with our T-bone we order a nice bottle of wine, we stay longer and obviously talk about different things than when he was 11. What has not changed is Argentina Steakhouse. The high quality of the food and staff is the same; we are still greeted with flawless service and the best steak in town. In a society that changes all the time, with fashion going in its inevitable circles, it is priceless to have some things stay the same. Besides, as in the case of Argentina Steakhouse; if it’s perfect, why change it?

Argentina Steakhouse Baronsstigur 11a, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 9555 www.argentina.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

introducing

cold weather strong northeast wind snow at times

Gilbert Watchmaker, Laugvegur 62, 101 Reykjavik, tel + (354) 551 4100, www.arc-tic.com

A Hundred-year

Adventure! The neighbourhood down by the old harbour in Reykjavík has been going through a renaissance lately. For a long time, it was home to most of the fishing industry in Reykjavík but when the new harbour opened, most of the fishing-related businesses moved there. That left a lot of empty buildings that have been steadily filling up with interesting businesses; restaurants, cafés, shops, museums, ice cream shops and bookstores to name just a few. The neighbourhood has quickly become the most exciting place to be, but it hasn’t lost its connection to times gone by.

Mixed in with the hippest restaurants in town and the new boutiques, barely out of the wrapper, are remnants of the fishing industry’s sojourn in the area and veteran companies, lending some gravitas and authenticity to the newcomers. One of these businesses is Ellingsen, a store selling everything you might need for an outdoor adventure in Iceland. The shop is in a glass building down by the sea, but don’t let the modern surface fool you, this business has been around for a while. A hundred years to be exact!

It’s a rare feat these days for a business to have survived a whole century, especially in Iceland where social conditions have changed completely and rapidly in the 20th century. At the beginning of the century, Reykjavík was a town of just a few thousand people and Iceland was mostly a farming community, far behind the neighbouring countries in development. Today, around two thirds of Iceland’s population live in Reykjavík and Iceland, despite a few setbacks in recent years, is consistently one of the most prosperous countries in the world. It was a different Reykjavík when Othar Ellingsen (pictured on the far left, along with his wife), merchant and shipwright, opened his store in 1916. There were only about 90.000 Icelanders and only just under 15.000 of them lived in Reykjavík. Reykjavík was little more than a cluster of houses around the harbour area and the pond (to put things in perspective; Skólavörðuholt, where Hallgrímskirkja is now, was outside the town limits) and Ellingsen originally sold fishing tackle and other fishing related gear for the fishing industry.

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For several decades, Ellingsen stood in Hafnarstræti (in the house behind the famous hot dog stand, Bæjarins Bestu). In the time it was there, Iceland gained independence from Denmark, the inhabitants of Reykjavík increased almost tenfold and the country’s economic makeup changed dramatically. Othar built his company up to a successful operation before leaving it to his son in 1934. Othar Ellingsen Jr. ran the compay for almost 60 years before leaving the position for his own son in turn, Óttar Ellingsen III in 1992. All the while Ellingsen held its place, moving, with the times, on from selling industrial fishing equipment towards outdoor equipment for individuals.

We’ll take you there!

In 2007, after decades in the same building, they moved their operations a few hundred metres to its current location in the Old Harbour distrit. Ellingsen may not be owned by the Ellingsens anymore, but after a brief stint of oil company ownership it has yet again become a family owned company, and the focus is on a familyfriendly environment. In fact, Ellingsen is the perfect place to get your family geared up in clothes suitable to the Icelandic weather, from the boots up to hats and everything in between. LOOKING FOR AN ADVENTURE? Ellingsen still stands in the heart of Reykjavík and despite the society changing almost completely around them, they’ve

managed to persevere and adapt for a modern audience while still retaining their identity. They even have a member of staff that has been working there for the past 45 years! Today, Ellingsen sells outdoor equipment for individuals, for any sort of adventure situation that might arise. Whether you’re looking for a kayak, tools for reparing your bike or just gas canisters for camp cooking, you’ll find them in Ellingsen, the one-stop shop for adventurers.

Ellingsen Fiskislóð 1, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 580 8500 www.ellingsen.is

Reykjavik Excursions | 49

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Step Back in Time with the Vikings by Ágústa Rúnarsdóttir

What is the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Iceland? Björk, volcanic eruptions and heaps of snow? Well, you wouldn’t be too far off, but what about the Vikings? We don’t do a lot of conquering and pillaging these days, but the Viking heritage is still a big part of our culture. Our ancestors crossed the ocean on tiny boats, powered by nothing but oars and sails, completely free of GPS and still managed to land on this tiny island north of everything. They even stumbled upon the Americas as well but that’s another story. As descendants of the Vikings, having lived on an isolated island, we have great respect for our Viking ancestors and their culture. Even though Iceland converted to Christianity more than a millennium ago, the Norse gods, Óðinn, Þór and Freyja, still have a place in our hearts and there’s even a thriving religious group that upholds the ancient customs and rites of the Viking community. True, most Icelanders aren’t overt believers in the religious dogma of the Norse gods, but it’s still engrained in our culture and heritage. A good example of this is the cultural status of the raven. In most cultures, ravens are considered foreboding and ominous, Edgar Allan Poe’s the Raven being a good example. In Iceland however, the raven is considered a wise bird, one that is good to have in your corner. The reason is that Óðinn used to have two wise ravens, one on each shoulder. The Icelandic farming community has a custom of feeding ravens scraps and befriending them

and there are folk stories of ravens repaying such favours by warning their benefactors of impending disaster. A VIKING VILLAGE IN HAFNAFJÖRÐUR With this heritage still in our bones, it’s no wonder that the Viking age is held in high regard. In Hafnarfjörður, a town on the outskirts of Reykjavík, the people of the Viking Village have taken things one step further. It’s the only Viking-themed hotel and restaurant in Iceland. The Viking Village in Hafnarfjörður has been a town landmark for over two decades. The two oldest houses in the village cluster were built in the mid-1800s. In the early 1900s the older of the two was connected to the fishing trawler industry of the town, which later became a flourishing fishing industry contributing to the growth and development of Hafnarfjörður. In 1985 the town council consented to have the house demolished but the National Committee of Building Preservation was against it and the building was saved. Since then, the Viking Village has been under constant care and renovation and has long since become a permanent part of the Hafnarfjörður landscape and culture. The people of the Viking village have recently added another feather in their cap; the Fisherman’s Village. Located only a few

minutes’ drive from the Viking village, in Álftanes, close to the president’s residence is an idyllic retreat, like a country home by the seaside. The highlight of the year at the Viking Village is the Viking festival. It takes place every year in June and the setting of the festival is market day during Viking times. It features Viking games, fighting, entertainers, food and, of course, Viking wares for sale. There’s plenty of fun to be had for the whole family, an event not to be missed!

The Viking Village

The Fisherman’s Village 52 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Strandgata 55, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 565 1213 www.vikingvillage.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

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A Cup of Coffee and

Something Sweet In Iceland, hospitality is important. You always offer guests coffee or tea, and don’t take no for an answer. When your guest finally accepts, after declining the first four times, you wouldn’t dream of simply serving your guest coffee, it’s always kaffi og meððí (coffee and something to go with it). Early in the morning, it might be a biscuit served with butter and cheese and in the afternoon, a cream-filled biscuit or a chocolate covered one. No matter the time of day, some kind of biscuit is in order, but it won’t be just any biscuit. The most popular biscuits in Iceland today and for the past 90 years have been made by the Frón biscuit company. BITE-SIZED HISTORY While biscuits had been eaten for centuries in other countries and mass-produced since the 19th century, most Icelanders were first acquainted with biscuits in the beginning of the 20th century, when French sailors used to exchange biscuits and wine for fish and warm woollen clothes. Thy were an instant hit with the people of Iceland, so much so that in 1926, Frón started producing biscuits at Laufásvegur, despite the fact that most of the ingredients had to be imported.

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The tasty treats from Frón were an instant hit, so popular in fact, that only ten years later, the factory had moved to a larger factory space in Skúlagata. At first, most of the machinery was hand-operated, and the biscuit filling spread on by hand which required a host of staff. At times, the factory had as many as sixty people working there, mixing, baking and packaging biscuits for all of Iceland. As a result of Frón’s longevity, making biscuits for Icelanders for 90 years, their biscuits have earned their own place in the national psyche.

WOULD YOU LIKE A SÆMUNDUR? Imagine this. You’re invited to have a nice cup of coffee with an Icelandic family, you sit down and somebody asks if you would like a bite of a Sæmundur wearing his fancy clothes. Horrified, you turn your looks to the father of the family, who not only doesn’t seem particularly dressed up, but also seems to be gently nudging a bowl of biscuits your way. Also, you don’t recall his name being Sæmundur. Confused? Don’t be. You weren’t being propositioned to engage in light cannibalism or anything sinister. A dressed up Sæmundur (Sæmundur í sparifötunum) is simply a nickname for a biscuit, namely the cream-filled vanilla biscuit Kremkex. It gets its name for being just a little bit more fancy than the plain workhorse Matarkex, known simply as Sæmundur or even Sæmundur in his dirty working clothes (Sæmundur á skítagallanum) if you want to be mean about it. The name is mostly likely

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connected to Sæmundur, factory manager at Frón during the middle of the century, but whether he dressed up specially to make the Kremkex is disputed.

the biscuit as soon as the corners start to get too rounded, but only an insane person keeps on accepting the biscuit when it becomes fully round.

A PURELY GEOMETRICAL BISCUIT RIVALRY Another peculiarity of the Icelandic biscuit culture is the rivalry between Mjólkurkex and Matarkex. Ask any Icelander and they’ll tell you which biscuit they love and which they loathe. The weird thing is, they taste exactly the same, the only difference is the shape. Mjólkurkex is square and Matarkex is round. This fact seems to be lost on most Icelanders, who will loudly proclaim one infinitely superior to the other, in flavour, shape and packaging design. I even knew a psychologist once, a proud Mjólkurkex eater, who claimed that you could determine how severe a person’s mental problems were by placing a Mjólkurkex in front of them and slowly start polishing of the corners, stopping at intervals to offer the biscuit to the patient. Sane people will stop accepting

MODERN TIMES Today, Frón has moved their production from Skúlagata in 101 Reykjavík to an industrial neighbourhood up at Höfði. The former factory building is now a hostel, aptly named Kex Hostel. Their restaurant, Sæmundur á Sparifötunum, is named for the popular vanilla biscuit, and they of course sell Kremkex if you need something sweet with your coffee. Up at Höfði, Frón still produces their bestsellers that have been with the Icelanders for decades now (Mjólkurkex is the clear winner, Icelanders consume 260 tonnes of it every year, but Matarkex, Kremkex and Póló, a chocolate covered coconut biscuit, are popular as well). The factory operates in much the same way it has for the past decades, the same machines they had in the 1970’s stamping the familiar Frón logo into the

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biscuits. A lot of the production is even still done by hand, where larger factories would be using machines. Despite their adherence to traditions, the people of Frón aren’t resting on their laurels. They produce several brands of biscuits in their factory, and are continuously coming up with new and fresh takes on the classic biscuit. They’re even experimenting with a jet black biscuit inspired by Icelandic lava!

Reykjavik Excursions | 55

Mastering the Simplicity of Good Bistro A bistro-style restaurant under Scandinavian influences? This I have got to try. So, I did. When we arrived it was after eight o’clock on a Wednesday night. The place was packed with smiling faces and suddenly it didn’t feel like a Wednesday anymore. Everybody there seemed determined not to let anything get in the way of their constitutional right to relax, chat, eat good food and have a drop of wine. At first I thought to myself that the interior of the place must call for this sort of relaxed attitude, with wooden panels, flowers and a gazebo being the central features of the design. The food might also have something to do with the atmosphere. It was first class, his

steak was perfectly cooked, my chicken was zesty yet tender and the wine was lovely. As with the whole bistro, the menu at Snaps is the perfect blend of Scandinavian and French. They offer classic French dishes, like bouillabaisse, steak frites and confit de canard, along with a menu of delicious Danish-style smørrebrød, the openfaced sandwiches with beautifully styled toppings, all, of course, made from the best Icelandic ingredients. They’re also one of the most popular places in the city to get brunch.

In the end, I couldn’t quite put my finger on what it was that made my visit to Snaps so special. The food, the atmosphere and the company were all excellent, but in the end, I think I’ll have to put it down to a certain je ne sais quoi. Sometimes restaurants try too hard. Snaps Bistro does not try. It just is.

Snaps Óðinstorg, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 511 6677 www.snaps.is

WWW.SEAFOODGRILL.IS — TEL: +354 571 1100 SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 14 - 101 REYKJAVÍK

“ZOMG REYKJAVIK HAS A BIG LEBOWSKITHEMED BAR!” Tweeted by @caitlinmoran - Followers: 569K – A Journalist for The Times, author and broadcaster. Ever seen the 1998 cult classic “The Big Lebowski” by the Coen brothers? Of course you have! Everybody has. For those of you unfamiliar with the concept, first of all, go watch it, right now. When you’ve done that, you’ll know that it involves Jeff Bridges as the “Dude” Lebowski, who, because of a case of mistaken identity is on a mission to seek reimbursement for a ruined rug and enlists his bowling buddies to help him. In Reykjavík, we now have a bar based on the concept. YEAH, WELL. THE DUDE ABIDES. Lebowski Bar on Laugavegur opened in April 2012 and immediately became a huge hit. The general idea was to combine a bar with a diner styled grill, furnished in the style of The Big Lebowski. Lebowski bar has a host of events and activities, such as DJ’s every night and sometimes live performances, the Thursday night Movie-Quiz and every major game and sport event on the Big Screen. The bar can serve up to 300 people with food and drink in four dining areas so every individual or group can be seated comfortably. Their Diner Menu offers a variety of Lebowski burgers and milk shakes, such as the classic “The Other Lebowski” (Steak Burger with Bernaise 58 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

sauce), the more health-conscious “Bunny Lebowski” (Chicken Burger with Blue Cheese sauce) or “The Nihilist” (BBQ Chicken Wings). The crown jewel of the whole establishment, however, is definitely the White Russian Menu, made up purely of Vodka and Kahlua-based cocktails. If the cream-based cocktail isn’t your thing, recently they’ve been greatly adding to their bottled artisan beer menu, as well as their selection of Whiskeys. THAT RUG REALLY TIED THE ROOM TOGETHER The location of Lebowski Bar, along with its brilliant concept-design, is a big contributor to its success. Laugavegur is the main shopping and bar-hopping street in Reykjavik. Virtually everybody goes there at one time or another, both locals and visitors. Lebowski Bar has through its location been both frequented by regulars and attended by passers-by and foreign visitors equally. I checked out Lebowski bar on a Thursday night. I had been there several times before on a weekend, but as these former visits mostly consisted of arriving tipsy and leaving drunk, I never wrote any reviews (although I should highly commend the bar staff for great cocktails) so I decided to behave like an adult, see the band that evening and have a beer. Having shown up early I got a seat between the bar and the band. Starting with a Tuborg Classic draft, I waited for the band to play their tunes and boy, was I in for a treat. The young keyboard player (a 19-year-old prodigy) started the night off with Booker T & MG’s Green Onions, followed by the guitar player serving ZZ Top’s La Grange

with a twist. Needless to say, people could barely sit still in their seats. By the time I saw the bottom of that Tuborg draft glass, people were dancing to The Doors and my instinct told me to pick up a White Russian for me and my date, who had been talking to some EVE online game conference guests as I made notes in my head about the brilliant atmosphere. HEY, CAREFUL, MAN, THERE’S A BEVERAGE HERE! Among the previously named EVE Online conference guests I spotted a pair of Icelandic actresses, having what I can only imagine being a glass of milk (as opposed to heavy cream and vodka) considering their itsy bitsy waistlines. Also present was an Icelandic MMA fighter (the only one we have come to think about it) and a group of college students who looked like they were really enjoying the music. The atmosphere in Lebowski Bar does not ask for age, gender, if you are wearing a watch or if you like bowling at all. It only asks that you loosen up, have a beverage or two and maybe a burger. Most important is that you have fun. Walking out of the front door I wondered how on earth such a wide group of people could find themselves sitting down and having such fun in the same place. But if the Dude abides, so should we.

Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20a, 101 Reykjavík +354 552 2300 www.lebowski.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

COME AND MEET

THE ICELANDIC HORSE IN PERSON

The concept of the restaurant is "casual fun dining" and we prepare what we would call a simple honest, "feel good", comfort food, where we take on the classics with a modern twist.

HORSE THEATER - RESTAURANT SHOP - VISIT THE STABLES At Iceland’s only horse park, Fákasel, visitors can meet the unique Icelandic horse, either at the stables or the daily horse theatre show. Restaurant serves fresh Icelandic food and is open daily from 10am to 10pm. S KÓ L AVÖ R Ð U S T Í G U R 4 0

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What’s On in Iceland

Hi there, traveller, welcome to Iceland. How’s things? Good? You excited for your vacation in Iceland? Of course you are, Iceland is the best. The nature’s crazy beautiful (and the people are too), Reykjavík is an awesome city to spend some time in, and the music made by the cool people of the coolest capital in the world is just so cool! You know all this, of course, it’s why you’re here, isn’t it? But have you decided which parts of the beautiful Icelandic nature you want to see, how you’re going to get there and what you’re going to do when you get there? Do you know anything about the culture of the cool cats of Reykjavík so you can have a conversation with them? Do you know what great bands are playing while you’re in town and where you should go to see them? Unless you’re extremely well-prepared (in which case, I must congratulate you for finding the What’s On website, www.whatson.is) you’re going to need some information about all of this. That’s where What’s On comes in.

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OKAY, SO WHAT IS WHAT’S ON? To put it simply, What’s On in Reykjavík is a source of information! It all started with the magazine. It’s been published for more than 30 years and is still published every month with a fresh batch of information about events, museums, shopping, restaurants and just Iceland and Reykjavík in general. If the interesting articles, the listings telling you what to expect from Reykjavík’s restaurants, detailed information about museum exhibitions and event information isn’t enough convince you to pick up a copy of the magazine ASAP, What’s on in Reykjavík also has a convenient map of Reykjavík in the centre.

LET ME TELL YOU ABOUT A GLORIOUS THING WE LIKE TO CALL THE INTERNET! What’s on may have started out as a magazine but in the years since then, there’s been a lot of technological advances, most importantly, the internet! As any serious company in the 21st century, What’s On has a website as well. The clever people of What’s on have been making the most of the unlimited space on the internet to amass a treasure trove of knowledge and fun facts about Iceland, Reykjavík and the Icelanders, as well as tips and tricks on how best to get around, go hiking, eat well and generally have a good time in Iceland. Wondering which artists to see at some of Iceland’s biggest music festivals? Where and how to go hiking in Landmannalaugar? What historical connection the delicious dairy treat skyr has with public protests? Or perhaps you just want to know what tours you can take, how to book them and what they’re like? No matter your question, the answer is available on www.whatson.is. Don’t believe me? The joke is on you because if you can’t find what you’re looking for anywhere on the site, we also have a live chat where our staff will answer all other questions that might arise. There’s also Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

an event calendar with everything that’s going on in Iceland, concerts, museum exhibitions, shows, stand-up shows, festivals and more! THAT’S NOT ENOUGH FOR ME! Now, maybe a printed magazine or the internet aren’t for you. Maybe you can’t read or don’t like to. Maybe you don’t have the internet but do have a severe paper allergy. Maybe you just prefer information to be passed to you by conversation instead. Whatever your reason/problem, What’s on has the solution – the What’s On Tourist Information and Booking Centre! A few years ago, the What’s On writers had a problem. They had a lot of information about Iceland of course, but they weren’t sure what exactly the people wanted to know, how much most people knew already before coming to Iceland and what they needed to know. To get in touch with the people on the streets, in order to know how best to answer their questions, they did the only logical thing and opened up a Tourist Information Office under the same name. Today, What’s on has two different offices, one on Laugavegur, the main shopping street and another one down by the old harbour, coolest neighbourhood in Reykjavík these days, inside the Volcano House.

The What’s On staff know everything there is to know about Iceland and the Icelanders, and if there’s something they don’t know, it can’t be that important anyway. They also make it their business to know about everything that’s going on in Reykjavík (just like the name suggests) and if you feel like taking in a show, seeing a concert, going to a pop-up-market, or just eating something really good, The What’s on Staff

at Laugavegur 5 or in the Volcano House at Tryggvagata 11 are the people to ask. If you can’t ask them in person, just send them an email, they’ll get right back to you.

What’s On Laugavegur 5, 101 Reykjavík +354 551-3600 www.whatson.is

2015

BRYGGJAN BRUGGHÚS bistro & brewery REYKJ AV ÍK

Iceland’s 1’st Microbrewery & Bistro Bryggjan Brugghús Grandagarði 8 101 Reykjavík tel: 00354 456 4040 www.bryggjanbrugghus.is https://www.facebook.com/bryggjanbrugghus booking@bryggjanbrugghus.is

Reykjavík Loves the City Card Reykjavík is a place of exciting possibilities surrounded by incredible landscapes, where countless adventures beckon and a host of natural wonders await. In order to enrich your visit further, the Visit Reykjavík City Card makes it much easier to you to connect with the extraordinary cultural scene and vibrant city life. Here are our suggestions for a day out with the Reykajvík City Card. FOR THE HISTORY BUFF: There’s no better place to start exploring Icelandic history than at the beginning. The Settlement Exhibition features ruins from the 10th century, just a few decades after the first permanent settlement of Iceland. From there, it’s a short walk to the National Museum, past the old Reykjavík cemetery. The permanent exhibition at the National gallery titled “The Making of a Nation” offers a sense of the evolution of the Icelandic nation through the centuries. By now you’ve spent enough time inside a dark museum, it’s time to jump on the bus no. 6 and head to the Árbær Open air museum. It’s a collection of historical buildings forming a tiny village. With staff in period costumes performing traditional farming tasks, Árbær will give you a sense of what life in Iceland used to be like. Finish up a day of immersing yourself in Icelandic history by immersing yourself in a hot tub. They’re usually populated by several generations of Icelanders discussing politics, culture, the news, their cats and whatever else they can think of. If you have an extra day, check out the Reykjavík Maritime Museum and the Culture house, where historical artefacts and works of art are exhibited together, for a new perspective on what it is to be an Icelander.

FOR THE ART LOVER Start the day off by getting yourself to the National Gallery, down by lake Tjörnin. The museum collection is mainly focused on 19th and 20th century artists but the exhibitions feature Icelandic and international artists alike. The Reykjavík Art Museum is located in three separate buildings so now it’s time to choose. Do you head down to Hafnarhús, where modern and experimental art is kept, along with a permanent exhibition of pop artist Erró’s work? Or are you more interested in exhibitions of paintings and sculptures, and a permanent exhibition by one of Iceland’s most celebrated painters, Kjarval, at Kjarvalsstaðir? Perhaps you’d like to get to know the life work of sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson at Ásmundarsafn? If you chose Hafnarhús, the Reykjavík Museum of Photography is only next door, in the same building as the Reykjavík library. The exhibitions at the museum of photography are a diverse bunch, artistic, historic and journalistic photography all get a chance to adorn the walls of their gallery. If you have an extra day, check out the locations of the Reykjavík Art Museum you missed, or head down to The Culture House, where historical artefacts and works of art are exhibited together, for a new perspective on what it is to be an Icelander.

FOR THE FAMILY Is there a better way to start a family day than to watch the reindeers of the Reykjavík Family Park and Zoo eat their breakfast? The Reykjavík zoo doesn’t contain any lions or elephants, but rather common Icelandic barnyard animals as well as Icelandic animals, such as arctic foxes, seals and reindeer. The family park is a great playground with rides. Depending on your interests (and/or seasickness), you could either take the ferry out to Viðey, an island just off Reykjavík or head over to the Árbær open air museum. The old buildings, the staff in period costumes and the toy exhibition are sure to keep the whole family entertained. After a day of entertainment, there’s nothing better than heading over to your local geothermal swimming pool for a spot of relaxing in the hot tub while the kids splash in the pool and play in the waterslide. If you are in Árbæjarsafn, hop on bus no. 5 and head to Árbæjarlaug swimming pool. If you have an extra day, head to the Reykjavík Maritime Museum for a chance to board Óðinn, the former coast guard vessel, used during the cod wars. The National Museum is another great option, with interactive exhibitions and areas dedicated specially to kids.

Available for up to 24, 48 or 72 hours and offering great value for money, the City Card gives you free admission to all of Reykjavík’s famous thermal pools, a great many museums, galleries and other attractions, with unlimited travel on Reykjavík buses and the ferry to Viðey Island.

Choose a card that suits your stay: 24, 48 or 72 hours

The City Card also entitles you to discounts at selected shops and restaurants. For more information, check out www.citycard.is

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Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

A RARE, ONCE-INA-LIFETIME OPPORTUNITY Around, on and deep within the awesome Langjökull ice gap glacier. Into the Glacier offers various tours to the World's largest ice tunnel. The ice tunnel and caves are located high on Iceland’s second largest glacier, Langjökull. Daily departures from Klaki base camp, Húsafell center and from Reykjavik.

You can choose from various tours and book online at www.intotheglacier.is Tel: +354 578-2550

ร gisgarรฐur 5, 101 Reykjavik (Old Harbour) www.elding.is

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+354 519 5000

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Elding is far and away the best Whale-Watch operator in ReykjavĂk. Outstanding naturalist guides, very friendly and professional staff, comfortable and stable boats and Marine Biologists working on board... Brilliant! " Mark Carwardine one of the world's most celebrated whale and dolphin experts

Our Dearest Dairy Product Traditional Icelandic cuisine doesn’t have the best reputation (fermented shark, anyone?) but we’ve still got a few aces up our sleeves, products that are delicious even to the most discerning palates. Skyr (pronounced skeer) is a unique Icelandic dairy product that’s been a staple food in our country for over a thousand years. It is still enjoyed daily by Icelanders, in various shapes and form, renowned for its high protein content and smooth texture. PROVISIONS OF HISTORY This deliciously healthy snack has been a large part of the Icelandic diet since the first settlers brought it with them around the year 1000. It’s even mentioned in the Icelandic Sagas. The skyr-making process is similar to cheese-making, but the end result is a smooth dairy product with a tangy, slightly sweet taste, reminiscent of Greek yoghurt. Its versatility and nutritional qualities have made this creamy delicacy popular with Icelanders throughout history. It’s available in the classic, unflavoured variety, but the flavoured and sweetened versions are also very popular, especially as a convenient snack. Skyr’s flavour and texture have always had their fans but, in recent years, skyr has gotten some new followers, thanks to the growing popularity of fitness, body-building

and overall healthy lifestyles. Skyr is not only delicious, it’s high-protein/low-fat combination has made it an indispensable part of any health-oriented Icelander. A LOW CALORIE BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER AND DESERT. For people who want to restrict their calorie intake but still eat well and maintain a balanced diet, skyr is a natural choice. Although, mind you, serving it with cream and lots of sugar, like my grandparents prefer it, might put a damper on the dieting aspect of things. Children love it and for most of us, skyr was probably one of the first solid foods we ever tasted. Speaking of children, I came home from work today, famished as usual, and immediately started rummaging through the refrigerator for

something to ease my suffering. A can of Skyr was what I found, perfect, round, cold, ready to help me survive until dinner time. I opened the can, took one, oh so gratifying, spoonful before leaving the can on the kitchen table to go answer the phone. When I came back (no more than two minutes later) I found my three-year-old son with my spoon in his hand, smiling ear to ear, telling me proudly that he had finished all of “his” food. Bless him. Unflavoured, unsweetened skyr is a great substitute for mayonnaise, crème fraiche or yoghurt in cold dips and oven dishes. FRESH FROM THE ARCTIC This beloved product of ours is made from the best ingredients: milk farmed in the fresh green pastures near the Arctic Circle where the water is pure and nature is unspoilt. The modern day processing technique is 100% natural, based on the original principles, using a thousand-year-old recipe and milk from the same cow breed, the colourful settlement cow. Until a few years ago, Skyr was only available in Iceland. This has changed in recent years since Skyr is now produced in Denmark, Sweden and Norway under licence agreements from Iceland and exported to Finland. Skyr has proven to be liked by Iceland’s neighbours with sales growing. This is really a lovely example of how life runs in circles since the original Icelandic settlers indeed came from Norway, and along with them, in all likelihood, the recipe for what has been the cornerstone of Icelandic diet.

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HAPPY HOUR EVERY DAY 16:00-19:00

SÓLEY ORGANICS Wild - Powerful - Pure Sóley Elíasdóttir is the woman behind the label Sóley Organics. Sóley Organics is a cosmetic company from Iceland that has been active since 2009, although Sóley has been making her products since 2007. The company has an organic certification, which means that there are no toxins at all in the products; neither for the skin nor the environment. The production takes place in Iceland from start to finish. Sóley has been mixing creams and herbs together since she was a child as her family practiced herbal medicine. She came up with the idea of Sóley Organics on her own but the company has been growing ever since the start. In 2010 she approached an investor and around 10 people are involved in the work today. When asked, Sóley tells me that her label focuses on being enviromentally friendly as well as “a healthy food for the skin”. ‘Organic luxury’ is the company’s slogan, which surely matches their goal. Today, Sóley Organics is mostly on the Icelandic market but Sóley wants great things and she excitedly tells me that the future is bright. Before too long, Iceland will not be the only market and not even the biggest one anymore.

But what are the long term goals for the company? “We want to grow bigger and become an international company. We want to be known as a label that thinks of the inner health parallel to beauty, with an awareness of the enviroment.” Asked about the three products that are essential for the skin, Sóley doesn’t have to think long to answer. 1. ‘Græðir’ is a healing cream with Icelandic herbs, free of any additives. “It’s a rescue cream” Sóley says. 2. ‘eyGLÓ’ is a moisturizer that contains a blend of evening primrose and handpicked herbs. It gives good hydration. 3. And last but not least, the newest product is Birta - lift and glow face oil. An anti-aging moisturizer which contains amongst others Icelandic Birch, Yarrow and Arctic Sea Buckthorn Oil. The final words Sóley says to me before we hang up are: ‘Love and peace!’ I’ll take these words with me into the day, refreshed after a good talk with this nice, ambitious woman.

Sóley Organics Bæjarhraun 10, 220 Hafnafjörður Tel: +354 555 2222 www.soleyorganics.com

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Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

What does it take to make an

Icelandic Lopapeysa Puffins, volcanoes, Northern Lights and blond people in lopapeysas. That’s a stereotypical image of Iceland, but for the most part, it’s actually pretty accurate, even if the blond part tends to be bottled. Almost everyone has a lopapeysa, the woollen sweater with the circular pattern around the shoulders. It’s really no wonder, they’re warm, light, pretty and, of course, are as quintessentially Icelandic as it gets. Add to that the fact that many sweaters are knitted by a loving relative and it’s no wonder that Icelanders love their lopapeysas.

Lopapeysas are important to Icelanders, so much so in fact that you’d be forgiven for assuming they’re an ancient tradition, brought over by the Vikings in a time when the years hadn’t reached quadruple digits. In fact, there are probably plenty of Icelanders who share that misconception. The truth is that while lopapeysas are knitted from the wool of Icelandic sheep, who’ve been bred in isolation since settlement times, the sweaters, made from a certain type of unspun wool, with their distinctive patterns and simple knitting style, have only been produced in this way since around the middle of the 20th century!

LOPI (THE WOOL) Icelandic wool comes from the fleeces of sheep, just like any other wool. So what is it that makes it so special? The answer is the Icelandic sheep. Since Iceland is an island, after the forefathers of the current resident sheep, the Icelandic sheep has been bred in isolation, retaining some qualities that have been lost elsewhere. For instance, their fleece consists of two

different layers, made up of different fibres. The outer layer is made up of coarse long hairs that are hardy and almost waterproof, while the inner layer consists of soft warm fibres that keep the sheep warm. When these two types of fibres intertwine, the result is warm, lightweight material, that also happens to be water resistant.

In order for a sweater to qualify as an Icelandic lopapeysa, it must be made from Icelandic wool, specifically lopi (more on that later), be knitted in a certain way and have a specific type of pattern. While the wool has always been there, and been used to produce cloth, and knitting came to Iceland in the 17th century, 70 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

It’s not just the fleece that makes the wool for the lopapeysas different, it’s also the production method. Lopi is unspun wool and for a long time it was only considered a stage in yarn production, an incomplete product, especially since knitting machines can’t use lopi. The airiness of the unspun wool is part of what makes the sweaters so warm, so make sure the sweater you’re getting is 100% lopi. THE PATTERNS The pattern is the most striking thing about the Icelandic lopapeysas. Although the sweaters were pioneered only a few decades ago, no one really knows who came up with the design. Some knitting pioneers have been named as the designers but the most prevalent explanation of the lopapeysa is that the design was an organic process that has its roots in the trends and evolving styles of the Icelandic knitting community in the 20th century, borrowing from knitting styles of Greenland, the Faroe Islands and the Hebrides. There are several classic patterns but knitters also have a creative license, the only requirements are that the sweater has a circular pattern around the shoulders. Some sweaters have a simple pattern around the waist and wrists as well, but that’s optional. In many cases, the patterns are inspired by traditional Icelandic patterns, Icelandic nature or even folklore. THE KNITTING STYLE One of the reasons that the sweaters became so popular is that they’re not just pretty and warm, they’re also easy to knit and can be knitted relatively fast. The sweaters are knitted on circular knitting needles, from the bottom up, and the sleeves are knitted onto the sweater with the pattern. When the sweater has been knitted, the only thing left to do is to hide two ends and sew the armpits shut, making the whole process pleasantly simple.

We’ll take you there!

ICELANDIC ARTISANS The thing about lopapeysas is that because the lopi is unspun, it’s very difficult to knit it in machines so that it still retains all of its qualities that make it what it is. That’s why the lopapeysa is traditionally knitted by hand. Many Icelandic knitters knitted lopapeysas for sale and export and in 1977, the Handknitting Association of Iceland was founded. By marketing and selling the lopapeysas themselves, the knitters could have more control over the sales of their products and ensure that only the highest quality garments were being sold as the Icelandic lopapeysa. The knitters of the Handknitting Association are still at it, selling their beautiful wares

out of their Skólavörðustígur 19 store, their Laugavegur 53b location as well as online (www.handknit.is). They have a pretty impressive selection of the woollen goods in stock, but you can also have things custom made in a short period of time. If you’re interested in trying your hand at knitting a lopapeysa yourself, the store at Skólavörðustígur has everything you might need for that as well, needles, patterns, and most importantly, Lopi.

Handknitting Association Skólavörðustígur 19, 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 1890 www.handknit.is Reykjavik Excursions | 71

The Light of Our Lives Iceland, silly as the name can seem during the summer months, was named so for a reason. In the old days, before electricity and heating, when the cold and dark could actually kill people, self-preservation and innovation were the key to surviving. It is a wonderful thing that one of the best known brands in Icelandic export is a product that has helped the Icelandic nation survive since the settlement. It’s a fish oil product called Lýsi and we are so proud of it. Our Norwegian settlers brought with them the knowledge of how to process Lýsi. They made it from whale, shark, fish, seal and even birds and used it as fuel for light, to soften and protect the clothing of seafarers and as a nutritional supplement for both humans and animals. For a time, it was even used as currency, as sources from as far back as 1096 state that church taxes in Iceland were paid in the form of this life saving, smelly liquid. The name “Lýsi“ comes from the product having been used as lamp oil, in Icelandic the verb “lýsa“ means “to illuminate“. Living this close to the Arctic Circle means that winter nights are long and dark, so one can only

imagine how precious it must have been to be able to have light in the house. Add to that Lýsi’s nutritional value, it’s a valuable source of vitamins A and D (in a country where the sun is absent most of the time and low in the sky when it does show its face), and it becomes an understatement to say that Lýsi has had a real impact on survival in this country. The method of processing Lýsi from the liver in the old days was, in the simplest terms I can think of, something like this: They dug a hole, put the liver in the hole and waited for the oil to squirt out. Hardly a developed technology, but nevertheless, Lýsi was the biggest export product of Iceland as early as the 14th century, along with dried fish and woollen cloth. THE BEGINNING In 1938 a man named Tryggvi Ólafsson founded a production and export company, simply naming it LYSI. He had then spent the decade before trading and experimenting with Lýsi, first in a small lab he prepared in his home. At the time he founded LYSI, the company was considered a pioneer in the production of marine lipids and later became a global leader in the field. The company’s research has been on-going for decades and today LYSI is at the world forefront of research and product development. Tryggvi had a seat on the board until he was 96 years old and it wasn’t until 1981 that the first non-family member became president of the company. In 1999 the company was

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reclaimed by the family and has been run by Katrín Pétursdóttir, the granddaughter of Tryggvi Ólafsson and her family since then. In April 2007, LYSI was awarded the President of Iceland’s Award for Export Achievement for its “unique achievement in the sales and marketing of marine lipid products and for the vision the company demonstrates in product development and for the build-up of knowledge and expertise in its field.” THE REST IS HISTORY Every child in Iceland knows that there is no way of growing up to be big and strong without having a spoonful of Lýsi with breakfast every day. They have no idea what Omega-3 and vitamins A and D do for them but it’s is tradition. This is what mummy and daddy raise them to do because their parents told them to and that has been the way of things in this country for hundreds of years. But the LYSI product line has more to offer than just classic cod liver oil in a glass bottle. The company now has various production lines, including shark liver oil, omega-3 fish oil and various blister products where in addition to the Lýsi itself the customer is provided with vitamins and minerals as well. Still, the majority of the company’s turnover comes from a tradition of 700 years, exporting cod liver oil in bulk. And in a country that is consumed with nostalgia, you can just begin to imagine how loving and respecting LYSI is branded into our dark-enduring, hardworking Icelandic soul. Locally Informed, Globally Inspired

BRANDS BIO EFFECT CALVIN KLEIN FASHIONOLOGY FILIPPA K MCQ NEO NOIR SIX AMÉS SKYN ICELAND SUIT SHOE THE BEAR WHYRED WON HUNDRED

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16 -14 4 0 - H V Í TA H Ú S I Ð / S Í A

GET YOUR DESIGNER BR ANDS TA X F R E E AT K E F L AV I K A I R P O R T

Celebrating Design Bringing style to Iceland since 1975 Epal is lovingly familiar to Icelanders. It was founded almost 40 years ago when young Eyjรณlfur Pรกlsson returned from studying furniture design in Copenhagen. He soon realised that there were things missing in Iceland for him to carry through his projects in the way he would have chosen. It was this shortage that lead to the founding of Epal.

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ONCE UPON A TIME ... of furniture has then evolved over the years to confirm to the standards of Because the Industrial Revolution started modernity. Epal has always strived to late in Scandinavia, Swedish, Finnish and offer the best of Scandinavian design at Danish designers created modern design any given time. Famous items such as using traditional materials and handcrafts The Egg and Series 7 by back in the early Arne Jakobsen, PH 5 20th century. This is the sort of store by Poul Henningsen That use of easily and timeless giftware you can always walk out available types of by Iittala and Georg wood and traditional of feeling like you have Jensen have been craftsmanship is a invested in beauty and style. available in Epal for continuing trend in decades. The list of Scandinavian design. design items available is Scandinavian furniture extremely long and interesting. This is the is of a unique and stimulating class and sort of store you can always walk out of this widely known common term applies feeling like you have invested in beauty to furniture from Sweden, Denmark, and style. Norway, Finland and Iceland. This type

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THE VISIONARY Nordic countries in supporting design and designers. With Eyjólfur’s objective through the years a strong, joined effort we has been to increase understanding and could come a long way in respect for good design and quality improving the conditions of products by introducing first class Icelandic designers who are design and offering noted design labels advancing rapidly both home and from Scandinavia and other countries. abroad. Eyjólfur stepped down But his main passion has always from running Epal in revolved around supporting 2010 and handed Icelandic designers and We offer the torch over to he has strived to assist in his son, Kjartan Páll classical items promoting their work. In Eyjólfsson. Eyjólfur his own words: “I realised that never go out admits that he a long time ago that good of style. still has strong things happen at a slow opinions regarding pace. When you feel like everything things aren’t happening fast remotely related to the running enough, it is best to take a deep breath, of Epal but now that the store look at things in perspective and realise is in his son’s capable hands, that Iceland has an abundance of well he has more time to work on educated, hardworking people doing his passion: to help young great things and working together in Icelandic designers make their achieving their mutual goals. At Epal, way in the jungle out there. we want to support this in any way we can by helping Icelandic designers put THE STORES their ideas into action.” In an article With this beautiful vision as a guiding Eyjólfur published in 2004 he addresses light, Epal has flourished in the past four this point even further: Up until now decades and there are three Epal stores Iceland has been far behind the other

in Iceland, with the flagship store located in Skeifan, while also having beautiful store in Kringlan shopping mall. The most recent addition is a store in Harpa, the Reykjavik Conference Hall and Concert Centre. Harpa has since its opening in May 2011 become one of the most renowned architectural works of art in Iceland so it is very fitting for Epal to have a store there and for Icelandic and Scandinavian design to shine and flourish within the walls of our beloved and long-awaited music hall. When asked what era of furniture fashion most impresses him, Eyjólfur replies: “It is hopeless to speak of fashion when it comes to furniture and house accessories and I would rather not do that. We offer classical items that never go out of style. I think it is very important for people to invest in items that can withstand the test of time.”

Epal Harpa Epal Skeifan 6 Epal Kringlan +354 5687733 www.epal.is Epal Skeifan 6, 108 Reykjavík Tel: +354 568 7740 www.epal.is We’ll take you there!

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What to Expect in an Icelandic Swimming Pool

Every country has traditions when it comes to leisure. In our part of the world said traditions tend to evolve around keeping warm. Finland has saunas, Russia has vodka, Iceland has swimming pools. THE HOT TUBS It all started with the hot tubs. They have literally been part of Iceland since the settlement. The most famous one is Snorri Sturluson‘s pool, Snorralaug in Reykholt, who is presumed to have lived from 1178 – 1241. His pool is one of four ancient pools in Iceland still in use. Today there are around 12.000 summer houses in Iceland, I will tread carefully and say that at least 11.000 of them have a hot tub. There is a hot tub outside half the houses in my neighbourhood and most of the hotels in Reykjavík have a spa with a hot tub so you really have to make an effort if you plan to avoid them. Almost every swimming pool in Iceland makes good use of the plentiful geothermal water and has a hot tub or five to keep the patrons warm and cosy, even on the darkest of winter nights. THE CHATTER It goes without saying that swimming and unwinding in warm geothermal water on a regular basis is good for both body and soul. What is even more wonderful regarding these blessed pools of ours is their role as social centres. All over the country, people gather regularly in the hot tubs to catch up on the latest gossip, political scandals and weather forecasts. There are even people who show up every day at the same time, hang their clothes on the same hook to have their daily 78 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

hot tub chat with the same co-swimmers they meet there every day. The earliest of the bunch are sometimes called “the doorknobs”, because they tend to be already clasping the knob when the swimming pool staff show up for work, still yawning and stretching. In the afternoon and evening the chatter begins again but the crowd is different, parents having quality time with their kids, people relaxing after work or workout and dating. Yes, dating. Going for a nice soak in a hot tub in the evening is a popular second date in Iceland. The swimming pools of Iceland are universal and people of all ages, from the new-born (baby swimming is very popular here) to centenarians who like to keep active in the warm waters. THE FACILITIES You will find more outdoor than indoor pools in Iceland. The reason is simple; the outdoor ones are less expensive. Which is fine, the fresh air is good for you. And there is nothing like having a swim and a hot tub during a blizzard, please do if you possibly can. What we have in many places, to add to the goose bumps, are outdoor dressing rooms. Drying after a swim and a hot tub on a winter evening in -5°C is one of the most refreshing experiences you will encounter. And don’t be scared of the cold, outdoor dressing rooms in Icelandic swimming pools are (usually) equipped with heat lamps to keep you warm.

THE EXPOSURE Before people take a dip in our luxurious swimming pools, they need to wash, thoroughly. It makes all the sense in the world, bathing in other people’s filth hardly seems like a pleasant experience. This brings us to the communal showers. Every single person in Iceland has been doing this since before they can remember so showering with other people of their gender is about as uneventful as eating lunch, but we’ve recently figured out that in some countries it’s not such a regular occurrence. Trust me when I tell you that it should be no big deal; after all, everyone is in the same boat and there are going to be bodies of all shapes and sizes there. In fact, I’m pretty sure this promotes a healthier body image, but if you do feel uncomfortable about it, some pools have privacy cubicles, just enquire about them before you get in.

You can find the opening hours of most swimming pools in Iceland on www. sundlaugar.is The norm on work days is that they open 7ish in the morning and close some time after dinner but as with any norm, there are exceptions. If you don’t have a swimsuit you can usually rent one so what are you waiting for? Get swimming!

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An Adventure Under a Bridge You might have heard about the Norwegian fairytale about three billygoats under a bridge, but the Icelandic story of a luxurious gourmet meal under a bridge is less well known. One of the best seafood restaurants in town, Fiskfélagið or the Fish Company, was described as such by one of their first customers as he contentedly pushed his last plate away. The concept of the restaurant

is "casual fun dining" and we prepare what we would call a

The Fish Company is located in onegood", of simple honest, "feel comfort food, where we take on the classics with a modern twist. the oldest houses in Reykjavik, commonly known as the Zimsen building. It dates back to 1884 and was originally situated in Heritage Trust. This gives the area a unique Dining at this restaurant is dining at its finest Hafnarstræti, a few hundred metres east of atmosphere that gets accentuated even in Reykjavik. To my mind, this is a restaurant its current location. After being completely further as the tide rolls in and out of the that you can always count on to make your renovated and moved to its current location artwork simultaneously to the tide in the evening something to remember. Add to that in Grófartorg, Fiskfélagið took up residence in current harbour. the wonderful surroundings of this renovated the cellar, underneath the bridge by the side lovely old house, whether having lunch or The menu features delicious Icelandic of the building. dinner, you are in for a treat. seafood, as the name suggests, but there’s During the groundwork stages of the a twist. The menu is designed to take you Grófartorg reconstruction area, excavation on a journey. With the Fish Company you The Fish Company revealed the remains of the older harbour. get taken on a trip around the world, with That has now been incorporated into “The top class marine cuisine melted together Vesturgata 2a, 101 Reykjavík Tides,” a work of art by Hjörleifur Stefánsson with themes from Japan, France, Sweden, Tel: +354 552 5300 S K Ó L A in V Öcollaboration R Ð U S T Í G U Rwith 4 0 Minjavernd · 1 0 1 R E Y K J AFiji, V Í KIreland, · T ETahiti L . + 3 5and 4 5 1the 7 7 USA 4 7 4 to· name INFO @KOLRE STAURANT.IS · KOLRESTAURANT.IS developed few. www.fiskfelagid.is

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Reykjavík City Marathon The Reykjavík City Marathon is celebrating its 33rd year in 2016, having been established as early as 1984. Back then it was a far cry from today’s event, involving only 214 die-hard souls of eight different nationalities, including the Icelanders. Today, the race attracts around 15.000 participants every year, thereof about 3.000 of foreign nationalities, and in 2015 they collectively managed to raise 80 million ISK (570.000 EUR or 650.000 USD) for charity. The events include a full marathon, a half marathon, a 10 km run, a marathon relay, a 3 km un and a Kids Run. The starting line is in the heart of the city centre by the pond and the city hall, and you run through residential areas, public parks and by the coast so it’s a great way to see the city! The race takes place on Saturday August 20th. Online registration will be open until noon on August 18th at marathon.is, registration is also possible at the race EXPO in Laugardalsholl sports hall on the 18th and 19th of August. The race is organized to coincide with the Reykjavík Culture Night, a day-and-night 84 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

long festival of culture and entertainment all over Reykjavík which consists of a main stage in the city centre, and different venues all over town, from art galleries and cafés to private residences and back yards, in addition to many spontaneous street happenings. The whole thing is then topped off with a fireworks show at the harbour and the whole town turns up to see the glory. It is estimated that 100.000 people attend the festival every year, which considering that the population of the whole city is only 200.000 people, means that practically everyone and their grandmother is there!

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Pour a glass of the number one beer in the country, raise your glass to a friend and say “scowl fyrewr thyer!” You should fit right in.

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The History of Iceland in 10 Short Steps

16-18 MILLION YEARS AGO: THE FORMATION OF ICELAND Iceland lies on the intersection of the American and Eurasian tectonic plates. When they started drifting apart, around 16 million years ago, it caused a major volcanic eruption, resulting in the creation of Iceland! Even today, the island still sits on a volcanic hotspot, creatively named, ‘The Iceland Plume’ - resulting in a multitude of earthquakes every year and volcanic eruptions every few years as well. 871 AD: THE SETTLEMENT OF ICELAND A Norwegian named Ingólfur Arnarsson killed a man and was exiled from his home country. He sailed to a legendary land in the west with two ships. People from the Nordics engaged in a massive land grab in this uninhabited country, taking with them Irish slaves, resulting in a Norse-Celtic mix of genes in Iceland. Thanks to the almost obsessive fixation of early Icelanders with genealogy, most modern Icelanders can still trace their family lines back to this time. As a matter of fact, Icelanders can look up their entire family history on a single website, and they even have an app called Íslendingabók that makes sure they don’t date their (close) relatives. 930 AD: PARLIAMENT ESTABLISHED Being a land of renegades and runaways with no king, some system of government had to be instituted. The people of Iceland went ahead and created Alþing (all-thingee), the oldest democratic parliament that still exists today. In each area there was a chieftain (Goði), a political and religious leader. Every summer, all the chieftains would meet at Þingvellir (Parliament Fields) to discuss laws and settle disputes. Every year, the law speaker, standing on top of the Law Rock, would say a third of the law, completely from memory. This way, the whole law was heard every three years.

Iceland is a proud nation with a rich history. From the world’s oldest democratic parliament, to an economic crash of unprecedented size, Icelanders have a lot to boast about, and they‘re usually not shy to do so. Here we present, for the first time ever, the complete, not-reallyunabridged History of Iceland, in just 10 short items. This is your unique chance to read up on major events in the history of Iceland, without having to sift through thousands of pages. Now...Let‘s start at the very beginning.

We’ll take you there!

The law was later written down in the book Grágás, which still exists today. Contained therein are practical laws, such as the penalty for your pet polar bear killing someone. The parliament functions to this day, uninterrupted aside from a period of 45 years from 1800 to 1845. 1000 AD: CONVERSION TO CHRISTIANITY, DISCOVERY OF AMERICA Until the tenth century, the predominant religion in Iceland was Ásatrú, the worship of the Norse gods, Óðinn, Þór and the like. In the 980’s Christian missionaries started spreading the faith, leading to violent confrontations. The two factions asked

Reykjavik Excursions | 87

Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði Þorkelsson to mediate. He lay under a bear hide for a day and a night eventually coming to the conclusion that Iceland should be a Christian country. However, worshipping the old gods was allowed as long as you didn’t do it in public! Iceland remained Roman Catholic until 1540, when it converted to Lutheran Protestantism. The Catholic bishops Jón Arason and Ögmundur Pálsson violently opposed the reformation. That opposition came to an abrupt end with the beheading of Jón Arason in 1550. The year 1000 is also when Leif ‘The Lucky’ Ericson discovered America, or ‘Wine-land’ as he called it. He was planning on sailing to Greenland, but was blown off course to the west, where he saw land. He later sailed there and attempted to settle, but gave it up after conflicts with the locals. These and other stories are written down in the sagas of the Icelanders, an extensive body of 13th century writings. 1262 AD: ICELAND SUBMITS TO NORWAY In the years leading up to 1262, the Icelandic chieftains gradually became more and more powerful, until the whole country was in a state of constant civil war between 7

powerful clans. In order to end to the war, the leaders submitted peacefully to Haakon IV, king of Norway. The story is preserved in saga of the Sturlungs, written down as the events were taking place or shortly after. Later, in the 14th century, the Kingdoms of Norway, Denmark and Sweden became one kingdom, and when they split up again Iceland somehow wound up under Danish rule. Even today Icelanders are confused and even a little sore about the whole situation. 1602: MONOPOLY (NOT THE FUN KIND) In the 1500s, English and German fishermen and traders set up posts in Iceland and traded with the Icelanders. Seeing a mutually beneficial situation which brought prosperity to his subjects, Christian IV King of Denmark naturally decided he wasn’t having it. He granted exclusive rights to trade in Iceland to certain merchants. It is hard to overstate how devastating this decision was. The prices were fixed and the system led to economic stagnation in Iceland until the monopoly was abolished in 1786. THE 1750S: THE ENLIGHTENMENT AND THE BIRTH OF REYKJAVÍK Until the middle of the 1750s, Reykjavík was just a single farm, and Iceland had no towns or villages of any kind. Sheriff Skúli Magnússon was a man of the enlightenment. He picked Reykjavík to become the centre of modernization, and pioneered the building of wool workshop buildings, one of which still stands, on Aðalstræti 10. This marked the beginning of Iceland’s rise out of the dark ages. 1845 AD: THE RE-ESTABLISHMENT OF THE PARLIAMENT AND THE INDEPENDENCE MOVEMENT The enlightenment came to Iceland, and with it, nationalism. Chief among the Icelandic independence campaigners was Jón Sigurðsson, whose birthday, June

88 | MyDestination - Reykjavik

17th, was later chosen as the Icelandic Independence day. The movement led to the re-establishment of the Icelandic parliament as an advisory body to the king in 1845. This was followed by home rule in 1905, sovereignty in 1918 and independence in 1944, when Denmark was too busy being invaded by Germany to do much about it. 20TH CENTURY: THE WORLD WARS AND MODERNIZATION Industry and urbanization was growing, but Iceland had quite a lot of catching up to do. 1900-1910 saw such novelties as electricity, the first car and the first trawler, which marked the beginning of the stillimportant fishing industry. In the world wars, selling products to the allies and servicing the American occupying force brought an economic boom and cultural influence, such as TV and jazz. This catapulted Iceland into the 20th century and still today the Icelandic culture has an incredible fascination for new and foreign things, technology and culture. 21ST CENTURY: CRASH AND MIRACULOUS RECOVERY Since the 1950s, Iceland’s economy was characterized by rather high inflation. In the late 1990s, the commercial banking system was privatized and the law was changed to ease restrictions on trade. Following an incredible growth in everything financial, the bubble finally burst in a spectacular manner, in October 2008. The currency of Iceland, the Króna, fell by 50% overnight. People lost their jobs, their houses, and their livelihood and finally to top it all, McDonalds left the country. Since then, Iceland has caught the attention of the international community because of how quickly the economy has recovered. Industry is booming (especially the tourism industry), unemployment is low and wages and prices are rising again.

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