Summer 2013
YOUR
FREE
COPY
• 456 5552
info@theviking.is
www.theviking.is
Go Home writthh A Story Wo Sharing!
Open everydaym from 8am-10p
Rafting
Ice Climbing Snorkeling
Diving
Glacier Hike Canoeing
Hiking
Climbing
Super-Jeep Caving
Horse Riding Sightseeing Snowmobile Whale Watch ATV
Kayaking
Cycling
Incentive
www.adventures.is | info@adventures.is | +354-562-7000 | Downtown ReykjavĂk Sales Office at Laugavegur 11
Hello and Welcome to Iceland We want your stay in Reykjavík to be as enjoyable as possible and we are here to help. While turning the pages of this magazine you will learn about many of Reykjavík’s best restaurants, stores, clubs, excursions and transportation companies along with some practical tips and fun facts about the city and its surrounding areas. The information provided on these pages will give you an insight into life in Reykjavík and introduce you to the highlights of the city. However, it is hard to explain to you the magic of Reykjavík on just 64 leaves of paper. To be properly informed about everything during your stay here in Iceland we highly recommend a visit to our website, www.MyDestination.com/Reykjavik. On the My Destination Reykjavik website you will find absolutely everything you could possibly want to know about Reykjavík and more. The greatest thing about the My Destination network and what seperates it from other travel sites is that it is filled with tips and reviews
from locals who really know what they are talking about. My Destination Reykjavik is there for you whether you want to get to know the history of Iceland, learn about the culture, read about the restaurants you plan on eating at, book your accommodation, rent a car, find out What’s On in Reykjavik, browse through photos or load up on useful information. Basically we have everything you need to get informed and make the best of your trip. My Destination is a global travel resource that is powered by a diverse community of hundreds of local experts. The local experts at My Destination Reykjavik are on the ground and have personally experienced what our destination has to offer. We make sure to produce comprehensive information in the form of travel articles, local tips, guides, reviews, videos and panoramic virtual tours. Let My Destination be your tour guide during your stay in Iceland and you will get more out of your experience than you thought was possible.
Reykjavik
MyDestination Reykjavik Locally Informed, Globally Inspired.
Great food, great price, great atmosphere. Come for our famous fresh fish of the day
Open Mon - Thu 11- 01, Fri - Sat 11- 02, Sun 12 - 01 Kitchen is open until 23:30 Friday and Saturday Vegamótastígur 4 | Tel. 511 3040 | vegamot.is 4 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
AwA r d -w i n n i n g P h o t o g r A P h e r s
l e in ava i l a b h englis f r e nch ger m a n ic ice l a nd
P u bl i sh e d i n:
w w w.forlagid.i s – alvör u b ók ave rslun á net inu
The Wonders of Volcanoes You‘ll find the Volcano House near the old harbour close to Reykjavík´s city centre. It gives guests a glimpse of how erupting volcanoes and earthquakes can be part of daily life in Iceland. Volcano House Cinema – Dramatic and Informative The cinema shows striking documentaries on two of the most powerful eruptions in Iceland in recent times. One features the famous natural disaster in the Westman Islands, where a tremendous eruption began after midnight on the 23rd of January 1973. That night nearly 5,000 people had to be evacuated to the mainland, using all the boats available on the island. The other film presents Iceland as one of the youngest volcanic islands on earth and documents the eruption in Eyjafjallajökull in amazing Emmy nominated footages. This famous eruption caused unprecedented interruptions to air traffic over a large part of Europe. Geological Exhibition – You May Touch the Items! A brief synopsis of Iceland’s geological history and volcanic system are on display in Volcano House, together with superb photographs of the volcanic eruptions and other mysterious aspects of Icelandic nature. This is a one of a kind experience, available only at the Volcano House, which offers a handson geology exhibition where guests can handle various samples of pumice, ash and lava from Icelandic volcanoes. A large collection of semi-precious rocks and minerals from around the country are also on display. Some members of staff are geologists and everyone is well informed if you have any questions or inquiries.
6 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Volcano House Café – Healthy and Affordable It is perfect to sit down at the Volcano House Café if you want a healthy and affordable meal or refreshments. You will find that they are under both Icelandic and international influences. They are great if you need a comfortable café to sit down and make travel plans or just have a nice meal and a chat. The menu has a volcanic twist and even their coffee has a connection to volcanic activities, grown in the hills of volcanos in Guatemala. Volcano House Information and Booking Service Do you want to know more about travelling in Iceland, activities, nature or culture? Do you need a relaxed forum to book your tours with knowledgeable, friendly staff? Whether you are interested in whale watching, horse riding, bus tours to the countryside or other Icelandic adventures, Volcano House Information centre will help you find the activities of your choice and take care of your booking and other arrangements. Volcano House Boutique The Volcano House has a souvenir shop that offers various gifts and artwork connected to Iceland’s volcanoes and nature. It has on offer classic souvenir items that make it possible for you to take home a piece of Iceland. These are items such as lava rocks, pumice, bottles of ash from Eyjafjallajökull, lava jewellery and more.
Volcano House Tryggvagata 11, Reykjavik center, 101 Tel: +354 5551900
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Svarfadur Valley is Iceland’s most beautiful place, according to its people, the Svarfdaelings. A few years ago, all sheep in the valley were quarantined and destroyed because of scrapie, a fatal and infectious disease. That’s when they founded the Herding Society, a venerable club of shepherds, car mechanics, carpenters, schoolteachers and plumbers. They are also poets and singers and festive men. And they continue to herd every year, despite the fact that there is not a single sheep left in the valley. The Svarfadur Valley Herding Society: Skál fyrir þér! Léttöl
Our Dearest Dairy Product Skyr (pronounced skeer) is a unique Icelandic dairy product which has been a staple food in our country for over a thousand years. It is still enjoyed daily by Icelanders, in various shapes and form, renowned for its high protein content and smooth texture. In recent times this product, which to tell you the truth was considered a rather old fashioned way of eating when I was growing up, has become the snack of all snacks. With the bodybuilding craze that Iceland has undergone in the past years, a pot of Skyr has again become the image of all things good and pure. The high protein/low fat combination has made it an indespensable part of any health oriented Icelander. Provisions of history This deliciously healthy course or snack has been a large part of the Icelandic diet since the first settlers brought it with them around the year 1000. It is even mentioned in the Icelandic Sagas. Skyr is made from clotted skim milk, it has a slightly acid taste and a tinge of sweetness. This product has been popular through history, with both children and adults, due to its versatility and nutritional qualities. It is a creamy delicacy that is both fat-free and rich in protein, giving you a great sense of fullness. A convenient and healthy food that is loved by both Icelanders and visitors alike.
A low calorie breakfast, lunch, dinner and desert. So for people who want to restrict their calorie intake but still eat well and maintain a balanced diet, skyr is the natural choice. Although, mind you, serving it with cream and lots of sugar, like my grandparents prefer it, might put a damper on the dieting aspect of things. Children love it and for most of us over the age of 35, skyr was probably one of the first solid foods we ever tasted. Speaking of children, I came home from work today, famished as usual, and immediately started rummaging through the refrigerator for something to ease my suffering. A can of Skyr was what
I found, perfect, round, cold, ready to help me survive until dinner time. I opened the can, took one oh so gratifying spoonful and left the can on the kitchen table to go answer the phone. When I came back (no more than two minutes later) I found my three year old son with my spoon in his hand, smiling ear to ear, telling me proudly that he had finished all of “his” food. Bless him. If you are into low fat cooking, unflavoured, unsweetened skyr is a great fat-free substitute for mayonnaise, crème fraiche or yogurt in cold dips and oven dishes. It contains 10% high quality protein, 20% of which is whey protein, best known for its muscle building qualities. Fresh from the Arctic This beloved product of ours is made from the best ingredients: milk farmed in the fresh green pastures near the arctic circle where the water is pure and the nature is unspoilt. The modern day processing technique is 100% natural, based on the original principles, using a thousand year old recipe and milk from the same cow breed, the colourful settlement cow, whose milk has unique health-promoting qualities. Until a few years ago, Skyr was only available in Iceland. This has changed dramatically in recent years since Skyr is now produced in Denmark, Sweden and Norway under licence agreements from Iceland and exported to Finland. Skyr has proven to be liked by Iceland‘s neighbours with sales growing. This is really a lovely example of how life runs in circles since the original Icelandic settlers indeed came from Norway, and along with them, in all likelihood, the recipe for what has been the corner stone of Icelandic diet since the beginning of time.
8 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
An Old, Food Serving Friend The bus terminal in Reykjavik is commonly known as BSI. It is THE bus terminal in Iceland. Since its foundation in the late 60‘s, it has been the hub for all bus travel in the country. BSI is conveniently located in central Reykjavik and serving food has been a part of life at the bus terminal since the beginning. The terminal tradition The bus terminal café/bistro is called Fljótt & Gott and they serve traditional Icelandic food, which has been the BSI food service trademark for almost 50 years. The atmosphere in BSI is very cosmopolitan since it serves as the centre for bus travel in Iceland. The terminal has hundreds of
thousands of guests passing through each year, both foreign and domestic. With daily trips to and from the international airport at Keflavik, this really is a busy place. The terminal restaurant Fljótt & Gott has a rich history and is one of the oldest restaurants in the country. It is safe to say that the tradition connected to Fljótt & Gott is very strong and the experience there is without precedent. It welcomes everybody to their comfortable and family-friendly environment where everybody can find something to their liking. Every day from 10:30am to 3:00pm, Fljótt & Gott serves affordable local food, as close to Icelandic home cooking as it gets. But their grill is open from 7:00am to 11:00pm every day, serving burgers, steak, deep fried fish, sandwiches and other conventional grill dishes along with wine, beer or sodas. And some things remain the same There are two things that Fljótt & Gott are probably most famous for. First I would like to mention their serving of singed sheep
10 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
heads, a traditional Icelandic dish which people either love or hate with absolutely no middle ground. This course goes back to when the country was so poor that every little piece of meat had to be utilized. I can still remember my son bursting into tears of terror on the first and only occasion he tasted this alleged delicacy. But I can also tell you that those of my family members who do appreciate singed sheep heads fall into a trance of happiness every time this old tradition ends up on their dinner table. The second thing is their drive-through. Many of us who grew up out in the country remember trips to Reykjavik with our parents, sitting in the back seats of smoke-filled cars with no seatbelts. The drive-through at BSI was a fixed stop for us out-of-towners back in the day. A hot dog and a soda for the whole family at the bus terminal drive-through is a cherished childhood memory for so many of us that the Fljótt & Gott is almost an old friend to our minds. An old friend that serves food.
Fljótt & Gott Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, Reykjavik center, 101 Tel: +354 552 1288
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Iceland from the Air Helo, the Helicopter Service of Iceland focuses mainly on tourist flights and is based at the Reykjavik Airport, located in central Reykjavik. Helo operates a Bell 407 helicopter which is specifically designed for sightseeing and photo flights. It is modified with oversized windows from floor to ceiling and offers increased cabin space for comfort. Furthermore, Bell 407 is known for its outstanding performance and safety, so flying with Helo is both fun and safe. Back in the old days, for most of us born and raised in Iceland, hearing a helicopter in the sky usually meant that somebody was lost or hurt. Helicopters were Search & Rescue tools in our minds. But they can apparently also be enormous fun! A bubble in the sky It was a cold, crisp autumn day when I went on my first helicopter ride, bright and sunny with visibility as far as the eye could see. The
pilot at Helo greeted us at Reykjavik Airport and told me that I would get to sit in the front, which made me both extremely excited and nervous. Their brand new helicopter is designed so that the passenger feels like he is sitting in a bubble; it has transparent shielding all the way down the front and below your feet! The sliding doors on the sides made quite an impression on the photographers travelling with us and the pilot was nice enough to try to explain to me his brand new Garmin 1000 GPS monster machine, an effort somewhat wasted on a girl like me but much appreciated all the same. Can’t stop smiling Then we were off. We climbed up from the airport and slowly moved north-east over central Reykjavík and made our heading to Þingvellir via Mosfellsdalur. Now I‘m no stranger to flying in airplanes, both big and small. But this was something else. When we were over Þingvellir, the lake shining in the afternoon sun, I just could not stop smiling. There was light snow over the land so I could clearly see Almannagjá crevice, where the Eurasian and American tectonic plates have been pulling apart since the beginning of time
(well, almost). It usually takes a lot to make me feel small and insignificant but this was a sight I will never forget. From Þingvellir we moved south over the lake and into a mountainous area called Hengill, a very active geothermal area. There it became apparent how different it is to examine Iceland from a helicopter rather than an airplane because the helicopter can stay still. Staying still in mid air next to a geothermal hot spring is not something I do every day. It was difficult to decide whether to go crazy on the camera or to sit there and enjoy having the moment turn me into a huge lump of serenity and happiness. Others can do what they want, I chose the latter. From Hengill we started heading north into Reykjavik again. The sun was getting ready to go down in the west, the sky was showing all the colours of the rainbow and when I saw Snæfellsjökull glacier towering over the peninsula straight ahead, I wanted to scream with joy. But since there were other people in the helicopter I made it a silent one. Can we go again? I don’t think I’ve ever spent money on anything as exhilarating as this. After landing I felt giddy like a child and felt the strangest urge to pull on the pilots jacket and say: “Can we go again? Please? Can we?”. Instead I promised myself that I would use helicopters more in my future travels. This is definitely the way to seek new adventures. Life is just too short not to.
Helo Helicopter Service of Iceland Mörkinni 3 Reykjavik, 108 Tel: +354 561 6100 www.helo.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
MyDestination - Reykjavik | 11
The Golden Circle If you ask anyone what the number one tourist attraction in Iceland is, the answer is clear: The Golden Circle. It is without a doubt the best known and best publicised day tour in the country with the best access and the highest number of organised seats per day. For instance, Reykjavik Excursions has this tour scheduled every day of the week at 9am, all year round, with guidance in English, German, French and Scandinavian. The question is: Why? The Golden Circle is a 300 km loop that usually opens and closes in Reykjavik. It covers three main locations: Þingvellir National Park, the waterfall Gullfoss and the erupting geyser Strokkur in Haukadalur. Þingvellir Þingvellir National Park is a historical and geological wonder, located in fields of the beautiful vegetation north of Þingvallavatn, the largest lake in Iceland. There you will find the famous rift Almannagjá where the Eurasian and American tectonic plates are pulling apart by a few centimetres each year. Þingvellir was the founding place of Iceland’s Parliament in 930 and the venue for annual parliament meetings until 1798. Þingvellir is also the place where in 999 or 1000 it was decided that Iceland should be a Christian nation and where Iceland declared its independence from Denmark in 1944. There is nothing more Icelandic than Þingvellir. Even the least patriotic Icelander will experience feelings of loyalty
12 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
and commitment upon walking through there. It is sacred and it is who we are. Gullfoss Then we have the two attractions in Biskupstungur, a waterfall and a geyser. The waterfall Gullfoss (Icelandic for golden waterfall) is in the river Hvítá and is 32 metres high where it plunges into the 70 metre deep canyon surrounding it. In
the early 20th century there were many who felt strongly that Gullfoss should be harnessed for production of electricity. This plan was abandoned when the daughter of the main advocate threatened to throw herself in the waterfall. The State of Iceland acquired the waterfall in 1940 and it has been on the state preservation list since 1979. Nobody ever speaks with solemnity of harnessing it anymore, it is considered
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
priceless in its natural state. This has even developed into a phrase within certain circles in the country so that when you suggest something inanely stupid you get replied to with the words: And then what? Sell Gullfoss? Geysir Haukadalur valley, where both Gullfoss and the geyser Strokkur are located, is a very active geothermal area. In addition to Strokkur and his brother Geysir, Haukadalur is the home of a multitude of mud pools, fumaroles and algal deposits. Strokkur erupts once every 4-8 minutes and reaches a height of 15-20 m, sometimes it goes as high as 40 m up in the air. It is spectacular, scary and very Icelandic. But then again, so are many, many, many other locations in Iceland. We have geothermal areas and awesome waterfalls all over the place. So why is this 300 km loop such a phenomenon when it comes to tourism? Ask anybody and they will tell you that if you only have one day in Iceland, spend it on the Golden Circle. Why? It has been argued that any wonder of nature that can me fitted into a day tour from Reykjavik, has nice roads and shops and catering at the other end would become an attraction. The argument is basically that it is simply combination of these factors that has made the Golden Circle what it is. I must admit that this is an argument that I have found myself making from time to time in pure irritation over the popularity of this particular waterfall over all the others.
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
But I’ve been thinking and I have a theory: When my parents were kids, people used to go for a drive on Sundays. Sometimes just within the city limits but on nice summer days the Sunday-drive concept was taken to the next level. Is it possible that this is when the Golden Circle came to be? The trip would take the entire day and the roads were nothing like what they are now but all the same. People would make a packed lunch, eat it on Þingvellir, go to Geysir for afternoon coffee (where there has been coffee for sale since 1928!) and be back home in Reykjavik by dinner time. And now that I think about it, that
is why the Golden Circle is so popular. Because in the old days it was OUR main attraction and when the tourists started pouring in, showing interest and asking where to go we naturally told them, without even a moment’s hesitation, to go where we have been going for decades. So the Golden Circle being what it is really just says one thing about Icelanders; We are a “mi casa su casa” sort of folk and we want you to enjoy the same things we do. So I welcome you, no implore you, to go see the Golden Circle if it’s the only trip you make out of town while you’re here.
MyDestination - Reykjavik | 13
A Wrist-Work of Art What springs to mind when you think of watchmakers? Do the words Swiss, old and tradition leap up there by any chance? I thought so. Now, think again because there is a new boy in town and he‘s proven that timeless innovation, superior craftsmanship and exquisite precision can be achieved even if your heritage does not include chocolate and the Alps. When Sigurður Gilbertsson, in association with his friends Grímkell Sigurþórsson and Júlíus Heiðarsson, approached his father Gilbert Ó. Guðjónsson, a watchmaker of 40 years, with the idea of them designing and producing their own collection, his father laughed. Today JS Watch co. has five collections and sells around 350 watches per year. When Gilbertsson‘s father stopped laughing back in 2005 and this beautiful father and son venture became a reality they created their own brand and made 100 watches to begin with, to test the waters so to speak. Within 6 months they were completely sold out. This was back in the day when the Icelandic financial bubble was growing at the speed of light and almost every man, woman and child in the country was splashing money around like there was no tomorrow. Soon after the launch of their first collection, JS Watch made preparations for a follow up line but then the financial environment started to change. The Icelandic krona, a local currency used in Iceland since the
14 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
beginning of time, started weakening and in a short period of time it became three times more expensive to import the foreign-made components, the country’s currency became worthless and for a small manufacturer operating in the world market this was a huge problem. But there are blessings in everything and when the Icelandic economy crashed, along came the tourists. People from all over the world flocked to this curious volcanic island in the North because it had for the first time become affordable for ordinary people to visit. More importantly for JS Watch co; it became affordable for your average tourist to buy high quality design watches. They had an unrivalled high quality product at unbeatable prices for foreign visitors. “People had been desperate to come to Iceland but it was just too expensive,” explains Gilbertsson. “Once they discovered their money would go a lot further the country became full of tourists. It has been great for business and not just in terms of sales. We not
only take pride in our watches, but also our customer care. It’s very important for us that the people who buy our timepieces know the level of perfection we try and achieve. Although we aim to get that message across on our international sales, nothing can beat talking to someone face to face and welcoming them into our workshop.” Speaking of their workshop, among the many happy watch owners on their list of clientele are men such as Quentin Tarantino, Viggo Mortensen and the Dalai Lama, not to mention the entire Icelandic Coastguard. JS Watch co. is the Coastguard’s official supplier of watches and the offshore emergency service exclusively uses the Sif North Atlantic Rescue Timer, which says it all regarding the brand’s reputation for durability and accuracy. So dropping in on Laugavegur 62 for a warm welcome and a tour of the exquisite watch collections of JS Watch co should without question be part of your Reykjavík tour, it’s the chance of a lifetime to get the watch of a lifetime.
JS Watch co. Laugavegur 62, Reykjavik center, 101 Tel: +354 551 4100
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
(354) 58 12345
Treat yourself to Ic popular pizza. Ca eland’s most ll us at 5812345 and we deliver rig ht to your room!
Another One Rides the Bus I took the bus to work today. It might sound mundane but for me, it was a big step. Huge, in fact. This was the third time in my life I have used public transportation within the city limits. Travelling around the country in a bus is different and doesn‘t count. In Iceland there is, or shall I say has been, a clear distinction between the city buses and the ones transporting people between towns/ regions. The city bus is called “Strætó”. That is short for “strætisvagn” which in direct translation means “street carriage”. They are big and yellow and they‘ve been around forever. I grew up in a small village east of Reykjavík. When I was a kid it took an hour to get to the capital by car. I had an aunt in town and sometimes I rode the bus to go stay with her. It was easy. The bus always left at the same time from the same location in my hometown and drove to the same place in Reykjavík where my aunt would pick me up (I usually had to wait a while because my aunt has never been good at telling time but waiting builds character according to her so I guess it was a good thing). At one occasion I went to stay with her because I had a dentist‘s appointment. The appointment was during the day, obviously, and my aunt couldn‘t leave work so she suggested that I just go by Strætó. I was twelve and this really didn‘t sound like a big deal. Just go to a particular street corner, wait for a big yellow bus with a particular number on the front window, get on board and then get out at another particular street corner close to the dentist‘s office. Easy breezy? One would think so but something
16 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
went wrong or, to be fair, I did something wrong. I ended up alone in the back of a bus which drove to the outskirts of town where all the other buses are kept. There the bus stopped for 40 mins while the driver ate his lunch, listened to the news and took a short nap. All this he did with me in the back, him being perfectly aware of me being in the back but not saying a word and I was scared and I missed my appointment and it was awful! An occasion for me to use this means of transportation again, didn’t arise until 15 years later. By that time I was living in Reykjavík and had unreasonably, temporarily and very inconveniently lost my driving licence. After having sat at home for the first two days I started thinking that not leaving the house for a few months was probably not going work. I took a deep breath and decided to overcome the fear that had been festering since my childhood Strætó experience. I did everything right, taking the bus really isn’t rocket science but even so, I went all the way in planning the trip from my home to downtown Reykjavík. I knew which street corner to stand on, which bus to take, where to leave that bus to catch the one carrying me to my destination. And as before, I failed. I failed so miserably that I was forced to call a Taxi from a suburb I had never been to before and I wowed NEVER to try and master the mysterious ways of Strætó ever again. Since the economic crash of 2008 we have all watched the price of gas go through the roof and the cost of driving the family car along with it. At the same time there has been a big change in the image and routes of Strætó. These big yellow enemies of mine
now travel all over the country, to Selfoss, Stykkishólmur, Hólmavík, Borgarnes, Vík and Akureyri, to name a few. I watch in awe as my two teenage kids go anywhere they need to without having to bug their mum. I had been working up the courage for a few months and today I took the plunge. Preparing for this turning point in my life included an intense hour of looking at www.bus.is, having the 350 ISK ready in my hand, packing a lunch in case of … you know … and letting both my brother and my boyfriend know in advance what was about to happen for them to be on the alert in case of emergency. My heart was pounding as I sat down at the bus stop. My brother had gone over the procedure of letting the driver of the arriving bus know that I wanted to get on (we went through various stances and hand gestures, no joke) so when I saw my number drive up at an “allure d’enfer” I jumped to the curb faster than a grasshopper, there was no way I was going to screw this up. And lo and behold, the yellow monster pulled over, the door opened and I looked into the eyes of the driver, who was by the way completely unaware of the breakthrough taking place before him. I got on and the trip was absolute heaven, I looked out the window in complete relaxation, feeling so grown up and proud of myself (and admittedly texted ten of my closest friends and family informing them of what I was doing). When the vehicle stopped outside the University of Iceland, where I had indeed intended to get off, I simply could not stop smiling. The moral of the story: Strætó can take you anywhere. It’s comfy, relaxing and nice. Don’t be scared. Just do it.
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
bus.is
Travel in Iceland the smart way Get your free app and take the bus:
iPhone
Android
Windows
Get information on tickets on your phone. Find your routes, plan your journey, locate the nearest bus stop and track your bus on a real-time map.
Get around Reykjavík easily and affordably Day passes are available for the Reykjavík area.
ISK 900 Three-day pass: ISK 2,200 One-day pass:
Gildir:
Where to buy: Strætó’s ticket offices, selected hotels and hostels in Reykjavík. The pass comes with a booklet that includes a route map and tips on some cool places to visit with the bus.
ind us on Facebook: facebook.com/Straeto
Gildir til:
The Taste of Iceland If you’re coming to Iceland, you will be blown away by the vibrant and unique food culture. Between the worldclass restaurants with pristine ingredients and master chefs, the quaint little local flavours and the unique and unusual traditional cuisine, there is no shortage of flavourful experiences for both the adventurous explorer and the demanding connoisseur. Modern Icelandic Cuisine Modern day Iceland offers every kind of food you can imagine, and many that you probably can’t. With world-class chefs working with pristine ingredients, Icelandic Restaurants are sure to be a thrill. Most restaurants will offer some traditional Icelandic dishes, such as smoked lamb, or some twist on tradition, such as a reindeer burger. Reykjavik offers any kind of international food you can imagine, sushi, thai, mexican, you name it. It offers steak houses and seafood restaurants. You can go from very high end to fast food in one block.
spring up in different places that may seem a bit weird to an unaccustomed onlooker. Here are some choice examples, but be on the lookout for more, they are different all over. The Icelandic Hot Dog – an unusual institution You don’t get more authentically Icelandic than the hot dog. Whereas some of the more traditional food are only really eaten during the Þorri festival, Icelanders actually eat hot dogs all the time.
Because icelandic farms are relatively traditional and the icelandic nature is very pure and unspoiled, the ingredients of the food will be absolute first rate. We particularly recommend you try the lamb, which is in a league of its own.
The Icelandic hot dog is unique in that it contains lamb in addition to the international pork and beef, and it is supposed to be eaten “með öllu” (with everything): raw chopped onions, roasted onions, ketchup, mustard and remoulade. If you order one “with everything” up north, it will also include “cocktail sauce,” a mixture of ketchup and mayo.
Local Flavour Icelanders don’t like to walk the beaten path. They do what they want and they don’t really care what anyone thinks. This means that different local customs will
Ice (Cream) Land Icelanders, somewhat appropriately, love ice cream. They love it at any time, in fact, you can sometimes see a line at the ice cream parlour in a snowstorm.
18 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
There is a long-standing debate in Reykjavík of which is better, Ísbúð Vesturbæjar or the one in Skeifan. Unless of course you’re from the north, and the obvious winner is Brynjuís. Because, well, obviously. Traditional Icelandic Food Finally, don’t miss out on the traditional Icelandic food! These dishes, prepared the same way they have for centuries, are steeped in history and... other things. There are some flavours everyone can enjoy such as the smoked lamb, flat bread, and liverwurst and some more unusual delicacies such as blood pudding and dried fish. At the far end of the spectrum you find curiosities of acquired taste such as fermented shark, singed sheep’s head and pickled ram’s testicles. These are otherwise known as “things you only eat so you can tell your friends at home you did it”. With a shot of Brennivin, an Icelandic Schnapps lovingly nicknamed “Black Death”, you can wash down your meal, along with washing away any memory you might have had of the whole affair.
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Flatey Island and The VikingSushi adventure When crossing Breiðafjörður bay you have the option of stopping for a few hours at the charming island of Flatey, where time literally stands still. Most of Flatey´s houses are from the 19th century so it gives the impression of travelling back in time. There is a lot to see and experience in Flatey Island; unique nature, birds, the church with its stunning artwork, stillness and absence of time, the old library, historic sites and the old village. And if you get hungry, you can try some of the delicious homemade delicacies at the Hotel Flatey.
A Sea Tour to Remember With over 25 years of experience in sailing over and around Breiðafjörður bay, Sæferðir has become a household brand in Iceland. This huge fjord west of Iceland separates the Westfjords and the Snæfellsnes peninsula. It is the home of thousands of little islands with birds and wildlife beyond your wildest imagination,
both on land and in the ocean. Their ferry Baldur takes travellers and their cars from their base in the lovely town of Stykkishólmur over to Brjánslækur on the other side of the bay. In addition to Baldur they operate the VikingSushi Adventure boat tours, on a large cruise vessel, around the southern part of Breiðafjörður bay.
For a more adventurous journey, The VikingSushi Tour is about 20 km long and takes roughly 2 hours. During the tour you will experience number of stunning and exciting things such as unique basalt rockformations, an endless number of small islands, colourful bird life and the highlight of the tour, the VikingSushi; fresh scallops & sea urchin roe straight out of the ocean.
Sea Tours Smiðjustígur 3, 340 Stykkishólmi Tel: +354 433 2254
WWW.SEAFOODGRILL.IS SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 14 - 101 REYKJAVÍK - TEL: +354 571 1100
From City Lights to Super Jeeps Snowmobiles are great fun and easy to operate. All the Mountaineers’ snowmobiles are two seated touring sleds with hand warmers and a high windshield. Participants can choose between a double and a single ride. Just remember to bring your driver‘s licence and make sure it‘s valid. To them, safety is the biggest issue and everyone engaged in their activity service operations have extensive experience in the tourism industry and in activity operations. The strictest safety standards are always employed. All participants are provided with necessary gear like warm overalls, helmets, boots and gloves. The Mountaineers of Iceland offer day tours where 1 hour of snowmobiling is included: The Express Activity Tour and the Pearl Tour. The Pearl Tour takes you on the Golden Circle, but with a snowmobiling twist. This tour allows visitors to get in touch with some of Iceland’s most famous and exciting natural phenomena and add a
glacial adventure to it. It takes you to all the must-sees; Þingvellir National Park, Geysir hot spring, Gullfoss (English: The Golden Waterfall) and then they kick the action into higher gear to get even closer to Iceland’s nature and go for a snowmobiling tour on Langjökull, Iceland’s second largest glacier. If you have a knack for adventure and the need for speed, this day trip offers Iceland‘s best and then some. To be the operator of an open motorized vehicle on your way up to the second largest glacier of a volcanic island will introduce you to a feeling to which there is no comparison. Mind you, everybody is allowed to go at their own pace to start with and if you would rather double up with your partner and sit in the back, the experience will still provide you with something to share with your grandchildren. If you are on a tight schedule while staying in our beautiful country, the Express Activity tour might be more suitable for you. It takes you to Langjökull or a snow area in the mountains. Once there, you will embark upon an exhilarating one hour snowmobiling tour across endless white fields of snow. This is a great way to combine the experience of some aweinspiring scenery and an adrenaline-filled activity. But this isn’t everything. The Mountaineers also own and operate super jeeps and trucks which have been specially modified
20 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
to get to glaciers and other remote areas by the rugged mountain tracks of the highlands, inaccessible by normal cars. Their super jeeps have extra-large tires, 38 and 44 inches, so they can get their guests to areas that no other vehicles can. As if that isn’t enough, the biggest “car” of the fleet is a modified ManKat 8x8 army truck for up to 56 passengers! All the Mountaineers’ Jeeps have radio transceivers for communication between cars and a GPS Satellite Navigation System so whether you want to go on a scheduled trip or design your own Icelandic adventure, you are in good hands. If you are in the mood for a mysteryfilled tour in a super jeep, that can also be arranged. The Mountaineers have put together a special tour spiced with excitement and surprises, away from the city lights and into the barren landscape in the outskirts of Reykjavík in search of the elusive Northern Lights. On a clear night and with a little luck you can see the lights swirl around in dramatic shapes across the night sky. Let me tell you on behalf of everybody who has witnessed such an amazing sight; life will always be a little bit better for it.
Mountaineers of Iceland Skútuvogur 12e, Reykjavik Area, 104 Tel: +354 580 9900
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Mastering the Simplicity of Good Bistro A bistro-style restaurant under Scandinavian influences? This I have got to try. So, I did. When we arrived it was after eight o’clock on a Wednesday night. The place was packed with smiling faces and suddenly
it didn’t feel like a Wednesday anymore. Everybody there seemed inanely determined not to let anything get in the way of them and their constitutional right to relax, chat, eat good food and have a drop of wine. At first I thought to myself that the interior of the place
must call for this sort of relaxed attitude. At Snaps Bistro you will not find glass and steel unless in the form of cutlery. The key words here are more along the lines of flowers and wooden panels with the addition of a gazebo (yes, really). The food was first class, his steak was perfectly cooked, my chicken was zesty yet tender and the wine was lovely. All around us were people enjoying the simplicities of a good Bistro menu. But even though all the ingredients were first class and the wine list exemplary, that alone does not create a desired atmosphere. It is rather simple, when you think about it. There is such a thing as “that extra special something”, a form of ambiance that has nothing to do with the food or the drinks or the waiters (which were great by the way). For some reason, this place has it. We had an absolutely lovely evening, without really being able to put our finger on what made it so. It is my solemn belief that sometimes restaurants try too hard. Snaps Bistro does not try. It just is.
Snaps Odinstorg, Reykjavik center, 101 Tel: +354 511 6677
IMAGINE
... touching the top of a glacier
For info, booking and reservation please contact: Tel: +354 562 2500 info@heli.is / www.heli.is
... scenic trips beyond your imagination
What to Expect in an Icelandic Swimming Pool Every country has traditions when it comes to leisure. In our part of the world said traditions tend to evolve around keeping warm. Finland has saunas, Russia has vodka, Iceland has swimming pools. The hot tubs It all started with the hot tubs. They have literally been part of Iceland since the settlement. The most famous one is Snorri Sturluson‘s pool, Snorralaug in Reykholt, who is presumed to have lived from 1178 – 1241. His pool is one of four ancient pools in Iceland still in use. Today there are around 12.000 summer houses in Iceland, I will tread carefully and say that at least 11.000 of them have a hot tub. There is a hot tub outside half the houses in my neighbourhood and most of the hotels in Reykjavík have a spa with a hot tub so you really have to make an effort if you plan to avoid them. The definition of “an Icelandic swimming pool” might sound something like this: “A man made, usually rectangular, hole in the ground, in most cases concrete, filled with 25-28°C warm, chlorinated water, accompanied by 1-5 hot tubs with water temperatures ranging from 38-45°C”.
You’re welcome to try to find a swimming pool without a hot tub in Iceland. If you do, let us know. The chatter It goes without saying that swimming and unwinding in warm geothermal water on a regular basis is good for both body and soul. What is even more wonderful regarding these blessed pools of ours is their role as social centres. All over the country people show up every day at the same time, hang their clothes on the same hook (and God help you if you‘ve ignorantly occupied one of these sacred clothes-storing-devices) and have their daily hot tub chat with the same coswimmers. The earliest of the bunch are sometimes called “the doorknobs”, because they tend to be already clasping the knob when the swimming pool staff show up for work, still yawning and stretching. After that we have “the 8 o’clockers” and “the 9 o’clockers”, but those who routinely show up after that tend to be the anti-social ones, people who like their routine, love their daily swim and hate having to chat in the process. In the afternoon and evening the chatter begins again but the crowd is different, parents having quality time with their kids, people relaxing after work or workout and dating. Yes, dating. Going for a nice hot tub in the evening is a popular second date in Iceland, I kid you not.
22 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
The facilities You will find more outdoor than indoor pools in Iceland. The reason is simple; the outdoor ones are less expensive. Which is fine, the fresh air is good for you. And there is nothing like having a swim and a hot tub during a blizzard, please do if you possibly can. What we have in many places, to add to the goose bumps, are outdoor dressing rooms. Drying after a swim and a hot tub on a winter evening in -5°C is one of the most refreshing experiences you will encounter. And don’t be scared of the cold, outdoor dressing rooms in Icelandic swimming pools are (usually) equipped with heat lamps to keep you warm. The exposure One thing you must realise before entering an Icelandic swimming pool: You will see others of the same sex naked and others of the same sex will see you naked. There are rarely rooms or cubicles for you to undress in and even if there are, you will still have to take your bathing costume off while showering. Why? Because we like our pools and hot tubs clean and smudge free. It’s nothing personal and trust me, for every man, woman and child in Iceland this is as uneventful as having breakfast in the morning. You can find the opening hours of most swimming pools in Iceland on www. sundlaugar.is The norm on work days is that they open 7ish in the morning and close some time after dinner but as with any norm, there are exceptions. If you don’t have a swimsuit you can usually rent one so there is no excuse, you have to try it.
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Reykjavik's Thermal Pools
*
e c r u o s A alth e h of
Th er m al sw im m in g po ol s
Hot t ubs and jacuzzi
*Admission January 2013. Price is subject to change
O N LY
k. 55AD0ULiTsS k. 130DiRsEN
Sa un as , steambaths an d sh ow ers
CHIL
For he al t h an d w el l-be in g
Se ve n lo ca t io ns
Op en ea rl y un t il la te
Thermal pools and ba baths s in Reykjavik are a so source of health health, relaxation a and d pureness pureness. All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot pots with temperatures ranging from 37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F). Tel: +354 411 5000 • www.itr.is
“ZOMG REYKJAVIK HAS A BIG LEBOWSKITHEMED BAR!” Tweeted by @caitlinmoran – Followers:412,257 – a Journalist for The Times. Ever seen the 1998 cult classic “The Big Lebowski” by the Coen brothers? Of course you have! Everybody has. But for those of you unfamiliar with the concept (you really should see this movie though) it involves the “Dude” Lebowski, mistaken for a millionaire Lebowski, who seeks reimbursement for a ruined rug and enlists his bowling buddies to help get it. In Reykjavík, we, now, have a bar based on the concept. Yeah, well. The Dude abides. Lebowski Bar on Laugavegur opened in April 2012 and immediately became a huge hit. The general idea was to combine a bar with a diner styled grill, furnished in The Big Lebowski bowling style. Among the many great happenings at Lebowski Bar you will find are the Wednesday night Beer-Bingo and Thursday night Movie-Quiz, followed by the Lebowski house band with their ever so popular blues cover songs. The bar can serve up to 300 people with food and drink in four dining areas so every individual or group can be seated comfortably. Their Diner Menu offers a variety of Lebowski burgers and milk shakes. The crown jewel, however, is definitely the White Russian Menu, made up purely of Vodka and Kahlua-based cocktails.
That rug really tied the room together The location of Lebowski Bar, along with its brilliant concept-design, is a big contributor to its success. Laugavegur is the main shopping and bar-hopping street in Reykjavik. Virtually everybody goes there at one time or another, both locals and visitors. Lebowski Bar has through its location been both frequented by regulars and attended by passers-by and foreign visitors equally. I checked out Lebowski bar on a Thursday night. I had been there several times before on a weekend, but arriving tipsy and leaving drunk I never wrote any reviews (although I should highly commend the bar staff for great cocktails) so I decided to behave like an adult, see the house band and have a beer. Having shown up early I got a seat between the bar and the band. Starting with a Tuborg Classic draft, I waited for the band to play their tunes and boy, was I in for a treat. The young keyboard player (a 19 year old prodigy) started the night off with Booker T & MG’s Green Onions, followed by the guitar player serving ZZ Top’s La Grange with a twist. Needless to say, people could barely sit still in their seats. By the time I saw the bottom of that Tuborg draft glass, people were dancing to The Doors and my instinct told me to pick up a White Russian for me and my date, who had been talking to some EVE online game conference guests as I made notes in my head about the brilliant atmosphere.
Hey, careful, man, there’s a beverage here! Among the previously named EVE Online conference guests I spotted a pair of Icelandic actresses, having what I can only imagine being a glass of milk (as opposed to heavy cream and vodka) considering their itsy bitsy waistlines. Also present was an Icelandic MMA fighter (the only one we have come to think about it) and a group of college students who looked like they were really enjoying the music. The atmosphere in Lebowski Bar does not ask for age, gender, if you are wearing a watch or if you like bowling at all. It only asks that you loosen up, have a beverage or two and maybe a burger but most of all that you have fun. Walking out of the front door I wondered how on earth such a wide group of people could find themselves sitting down and having such fun in the same place. But if the Dude abides, so should we.
Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20a, Reykjavik center, 101
24 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Álafoss The Small Dell with the Big History
North of Reykjavik is a small town called Mosfellsbær. It is one of the smaller municipalities surrounding the capital, inhabited by just under 9000 people. It differs from the other suburban towns in being detached from the urban area, although Reykjavík keeps moving closer and closer. How it used to be In the heart of Mosfellsbær, up the Varmá river (e. the Warm River) is a small village within the village It is called Álafosskvosin, which in English can be referred to as „The Dell by the Waterfall of the Eels“. Yes, as cute as it gets. Because of the warmth of the river, this location spawned the first industrial cluster in Iceland in 1896. The river was utilised to clean and colour wool, which spawned the founding of the company Álafoss, which later became the main exporter of Icelandic woollen clothing and an empire as such, at least on an Icelandic scale. All of the buildings that make up this little gem of a dell originally belonged to and served the wool industry in one way or the other, but today they are part of a society made up by a coffee house, a recording studio, a carpenter’s workshop, a knife maker and the store named after the original wool exporters, Álafoss. How it is today In addition to its magical location, the Álafoss store is an adventure in itself. Located in the old factory house that was used to drive the mills of the wool factory, it offers everything your heart could possibly desire when it comes to
Icelandic woollen products. From the traditional Icelandic “lopapeysa” (woollen sweater), handmade by knitters from all over the country, in all the colours and patterns they can think of, to high fashion woollen clothing, Icelandic jewellery, gift merchandise and souvenirs, this is a store that absolutely needs to be on your bucket list. Finally, if you are a knitter yourself, the store offers a handsome selection of knitting wool yarn of all types and colours plus recipes. After a visit to Álafoss, all you have to do is get started! Make it simple But what truly makes Álafoss so magical is the history. On display at the store you will find a selection of old knitting machinery and photographs from the early days, and looking out of this 110 year old factory house, overseeing the Varmá River just outside the window, it is easy to imagine the power and foresight that turned this lovely little dell into a busy industrial site, buzzing with life and big dreams. Taking a walk outside, you can almost hear the voices of children spending their early 20th century summers diving into the warm river swimming pool. Life was simple back then. When you visit Álafoss, it becomes simple again.
Álafoss Alafossvegur 23, Mosfellsbaer, 270 Tel: +354 566 6303
26 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
TAKE THE WARMTH WITH YOU! WOOL SWEATERS, ACCESSORIES, BLANKETS, TRADITIONAL CRAFTS & MODERN ART
ÁLAFOSSVEGUR 23 - MOSFELLSBÆR OPEN: MON. - FRI. 9.00 - 18.00 SAT. 9:00 - 16:00 LAUGAVEGUR 8 CITY CENTRE OPEN: 10:00 - 18:00
www.alafoss.is
1896
The Art of Museum Hopping Design and art can be found in more places than down town. The following three museums have the common denominator of hosting sharp and exciting exhibitions a 15-25 minute bus ride from Reykjavik city centre. The road connecting these three wonderful museums is Route 40, which also leads to the Blue Lagoon and other interesting places worth visiting while staying in the Reykjavik area.
Kópavogur Art Museum-Gerðarsafn Hamraborg 4, 200 Kopavogur A progressive art museum that specialises in modern and contemporary art. Located in an elegant building in the centre of Kópavogur, the second largest community in Iceland with 32.000 inhabitants. The museum was founded in memory of sculptor Gerður Helgadóttir (b. 1928), a pioneer of modern sculpture in Iceland. She is also known for her mosaics and stained glass, including the windows of the nearby Kópavogur Church. The museum houses important collections of works by Barbara Árnason (b. 1911), Magnús Á. Árnason (b. 1894) and Valgerður Briem (b. 1914). The private collection of Þorvaldur Guðmundsson and Ingibjörg Guðmundsdóttir which includes many treasures of twentiethcentury Icelandic art is now in custody of the Kópavogur Art Museum. Apart from exhibitions of its own collection the museum mainly exhibits works by Icelandic artists. The museum store offers great pieces based on the works of Gerður and was the first store of its kind to open in Iceland. www.gerdarsafn.is
28 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
The Museum of Design and Applied Art Garðatorg 1, 210 Gardabaer
Hafnarborg - The Hafnarfjordur Centre of Culture and Fine Art Strandgata 34, 220 Hafnafjordur
This museum is located in Garðabær, a municipality of 15 000 inhabitants. It’s the only museum in Iceland that collects Icelandic design such as furniture, graphic design, textile, ceramics, glass, jewellery and clothing. Four to seven exhibitions are hosted every year, both on Icelandic and international design. Their museum store has Icelandic design and design books on offer – and you can also sit down for coffee. In June they will open an exhibition comprised of museum owned items, furniture, ceramics, cloth and textile ranging from 1930 to 1980. Additionally they’ll host a large exhibition of Vigdís Finnbogadóttir’s clothing, early next winter. Serving as president of Iceland from 1980 to 1996, she is the first democratically elected female national leader in the world. What that means in terms of clothing protocol is very interesting and has never been covered in an exhibition before.
Hafnarborg exhibits works by leading Icelandic and international artists. The museum´s exhibition program focuses on the works of contemporary artists as well as established artists from the early 20th century with a number of temporary exhibitions per year. The collection is mostly Icelandic with emphasis on the works of Eiríkur Smith (b.1925), a leading 20th century Icelandic artist. Collection exhibitions are a regular part of the program as well as workshops, seminars and guided tours of the museum´s various exhibitions. Guided tours in English are available upon request. Hafnarborg has a small museum shop with books and contemporary design products and a restaurant serving prize-winning health food. A visit to the museum in down town Hafnarfjörður also makes for a great opportunity to familiarise yourself with this historic old town with its quaint houses and lovely seaside.
www.honnunarsafn.is
www.hafnarborg.is
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Carrying on the Tradition A Knife at a Time One of the various entrepreneurs who have made themselves comfortable with their business at the Álafoss dell is the knife maker, Páll Kristjánsson, though everybody calls him Palli. Both he and his knifes are one of a kind.
Upon entering his workshop, I was greeted (rather harshly) by a huge German shepherd. Of course he was already tied up and Palli called him down instantly so I had nothing to worry about. But there was something rather special in meeting a knife maker for the first time, surrounded by blades, wood, reindeer antlers and a dog the
size of my car. Palli is the only knife maker in Iceland and to be honest, I doubt that they make knifes like his anywhere else in the world either. The blades vary in being hand-made copies of Iron Age or Viking Age designs from Denmark, Damascus steel, or factory-produced blades from other parts of Scandinavia. And each handle or hilt is hand-made by Palli from reindeer antlers, sheep and cow bone and hoof, whale tooth and bone, and 12 million-yearold trees (brown coal or fossils). He also uses various Icelandic stones and hikes both the highlands and lowlands of Iceland in search of materials; this man truly is the real thing. Not only that, but he also fashions the sheaths for the knives and they are no less evocative. Using leather, tree and skin from cow, seal and fish, he creates a unique and fitting holster for each knife. Often, like with the handles, they are intricately patterned with Viking symbols and carvings. But you can ask for any writing or pattern. It is my solemn belief that when it comes to his labours of love, this man can do anything.
Knife maker Palli Kristjansson Álafossvegur 29, Mosfellsbaer, 270 Tel: +354 566 7408
www.knifemaker.is
A Getaway Within the City What is so special about Nauthóll Bistro is something that none of the other restaurants in Reykjavik have. It is located close to two of the most precious outdoor gems in the city, Nauthólsvík bay and Öskjuhlíð forrest. Nauthólsvík bay, which you have in view from Nauthóll Bistro, is one of the few white sand beaches in Iceland. Down the shore from the restaurant you will find the geothermally heated beach with changing rooms and a hot tub. In recent years it has become the hub for sea swimming in Iceland, a fad which started a few years back and keeps growing every year. Then there is Öskjuhlíð, a forresty hill that is perfect for a light hike or a nice slow walk through the woods before sitting down in Nauthóll Bistro. There’s something serene about this location, as even though you’re basically in downtown Reykjavík, you feel like you’ve left the bustle of the city behind, free to enjoy the fantastic view of the ocean and the woods.
Ecological sustainability This closeness to nature is accompanied with a bright, wholesome and beautiful spirit which also comes with a responsibility. In 2012, the Minister for the Environment and Natural Resources awarded Nauthóll Bistro with The Nordic Ecolabel, the Nordic swan, which is the official sustainability eco label for the Nordic countries. It is achieved by a voluntary license system where the applicant agrees to follow a certain set of criteria outlined by Nordic Ecolabelling in cooperation with stakeholders. These criteria include for example environmental, quality and health objectives which basically means the restaurant strives every day to be as environmentally responsible as possible, working towards an ecologically sustainable society. Nauthóll Bistro was the first restaurant in Iceland to be awarded this great honour.
Fresh, Modern and delicious What I love about Nauthóll Bistro is that they emphasise a light and comfortable atmosphere. Since people largely come to the area for exercise and fresh air, they also emphasise healthy food, fresh quality ingredients, culture and a connection with nature. With that in mind, Nauthóll try to minimize their carbon footprint by purchasing fresh from the farm, thus contributing what they can to sustainable farming. Their head chef is Eyþór Rúnarsson, former national chefs’ team captain and culinary artist. His work is known both locally and internationally and you can expect him and his team to serve high quality fish dishes and traditional Bistro cuisine. Additionally, he is currently one of the judges in the Icelandic version of Master Chef. All in all, Nauthóll offers a pleasant experience, where sustainability goes in hand in hand with quality and atmosphere. It’s a lovely place to sit down after a nice walk and the setting makes for a wonderful time.
Nauthóll Bistro Nauthólsvegur 106, Reykjavik center, 101 +354 599 6660
30 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Becoming One with Nature Whale watching with the pioneers North Sailing is a family business in Húsavík, one of the northernmost villages in Iceland. They have been whale watching for almost two decades and with their lovely oak boats and family owned restaurant along with their priceless experience in interacting with whales, they are at the forefront. It all started with two brothers renovating a boat. Now they have seven, with operations reaching all the way to Greenland and over 90 people working for them in the summertime. One of North Sailing´s core values is to minimize and counteract any influence its operations may have on nature. Pure magic aboard oak boats and schooners North Sailing started whale watching in Skjálfandi Bay in 1995 with the oak boat Knörrinn, which is their oldest one. Whale watching has since become very popular in Iceland and the number of passengers has increased year by year. As a result, the oak boats are now seven instead of one, three of which are traditional schooners (sail boats). In the beginning, the minke whale was the most common whale in Skjálfandi Bay but in recent years more species have been frequently seen. One of them is the humpback whale, certainly one of the most popular whales as it normally raises its tail fin before deep diving and occasionally waves its gigantic flippers and breaches from time to time. The bay is also a great destination because of its birdlife and scenery. There are two
32 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
islands in Skjálfandi Bay, Lundey (Puffin Island) and Flatey (Flat Island), where a great number of birds nest. Therefore
the birdlife is very colourful and puffins, arctic terns, guillemots, gannets and many other species are frequently seen during the tours. The beautiful mountains at the western part of the bay, called Víknafjöll, make a visit to the bay even more spectacular and worth your while. The Original Húsavík Whale Watching tour This is the tour that has given the town of Húsavík the reputation of being Iceland’s whale watching capital. It offers a unique opportunity to enjoy magnificent wildlife and witness whales
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
and birds in their natural habitat on board a traditional Icelandic oak boat. The Original Whale Watching tour is the visitor’s first choice and recommended by thousands of satisfied customers worldwide. Whales, Puffins and Sails This unique sailing tour combines bird watching and a sailing adventure with whale watching on board Hildur or Haukur, two of North Sailings three schooners. On board you will experience the aura of past times by setting sails or assisting the skipper, at your will. The
schooners take you to Lundey, the Puffin Island, as well as the traditional whale watching areas. The Edge of the Arctic and Siglufjörður This tour gives insight into the world that shaped Iceland no less; the world of sailing and fishing. The area in question offers a buffet of great nature and cultural encounters, different from anything you will experience in other areas of Iceland. This is a 3 day sailing expedition (a two day version also available) that takes you to the island of
Grímsey and north of the Arctic Circle. Few towns in Iceland have such an eventful history as Siglufjörður. At the beginning of the 20th century this small village changed remarkably quickly to one of the largest merchant towns in Iceland and was known as the capital of herring fishing in the North Atlantic. The Herring Era Museum in the town is one of the largest and most interesting museums in the country. It has been awarded many times both domestically and internationally. expeditions and longer tours North Sailing now has 3 schooners, Haukur, Hildur and the recently acquired two mast schooner Opal, which will mainly be used for their already established week long tours in Scoresbysund, in northeast Greenland and tours and expeditions in Iceland and the high North. These are scheduled tours as well as chartered tours for private expeditions. And of course they have a restaurant … The North Sailing family-owned Restaurant Gamli Baukur specializes in food from local products. The fish comes straight from the boats landing their catch in Húsavík. Meat and vegetables come from farms in the region. Gamli Baukur is a replica of a house built in 1843 which got destroyed in a fire in 1960 and was a renowned local restaurant from 1884 until 1904. The present Gamli Baukur is built from driftwood found along the nearby shoreline. Like its predecessor, Gamli Baukur is popular among residents as a gathering place to enjoy music and refreshments. All in all, this lovely family owned company offers a holistic experience to which there is no comparison. If you are in Iceland for more than a day, you should not let it pass you by.
North Sailing Hafnarstett 11, Husavik, 640 Tel: +354 464 7272 www.northsailing.is Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
MyDestination - Reykjavik | 33
A Food Designer with a Passion for Raw Foods To interview a restaurant owner at lunch time during the opening of her third restaurant was a phenomenally bad idea. After watching this tiny hurricane of a woman running around for a few minutes, I made a judgement call and told her I would be back in the afternoon. Which retrospectively should have been my plan to begin with. Gló now has three raw food restaurants in the Reykjavik area. The owner and master chef, Solla Eiríksdóttir, has been involved in vegetarian and raw food cuisine for over 30 years. My first question, when I finally got her to sit down, was on how it all started. “I became a vegetarian before I was twenty. I was sick with allergies and food intolerance and was forced to choose between going on medication and completely changing my diet. I chose the latter and became a vegetarian, a life change that soon turned into passion for making good healthy food and spreading the gospel. Soon I started teaching vegetarian cooking and by 1994, I had my first restaurant. 16 years after my change, I found myself ready to try something new. That is when I gained interest in raw foods. I went to Puerto Rico in 1996 to study raw cooking. So I entered the world of raw rather early. “
According to Solla, people tend to connect “healthy” with “bad taste” in their minds. Her objective is to obliterate that connection by making raw food based on recipes and ideas that people already know and love. “My goal is to slowly but surely root out the prejudice and misconception that people have regarding raw food. In 25 years, the option of having raw meals will have become as common and natural as the vegetarian alternative is today.” The road to reform is long and winding and Solla takes her role very seriously. “I am extremely passionate about this. Instead of turning my belief that raw food makes everything better just onto myself, I have spent the last 17 years inventing and developing recipes that turn what people already know into raw food. As a result, my restaurants offer pizza, enchiladas, sushi and lasagne, all according to the raw ideology. The idea is to get people to have a taste, to like it and to come back. “ But what exactly does the raw concept embody? According to Solla, it is a cooking method that entails heating the food to only 42-47°C. That way the enzymes in the food can be preserved in order to give the human body a chance to maintain its self-healing abilities. This applies to vegetables, fruit, nuts, seeds
and corn. But in order to get people on board, Solla adds a twist: “Our restaurants always have on offer six to nine types of salads, one raw dish, one cooked vegan or vegetarian dish and one chicken dish. We cook the chicken in a simple manner and then we add the raw sauces and good spices to get people used to the raw taste and texture. The purpose of this twist is to enable people who enjoy good raw and vegetarian food to come here and eat with their friends or spouses who do not share their taste in food … yet” she says and laughs. And once a week they have meat free Mondays to raise awareness on how much water and land it takes to make one kilogram of meat. Her endeavours have not gone unnoticed outside of Iceland. Solla has in the last two years been voted “Favourite Raw Gourmet Chef” and “Favourite Raw Simple Chef” in the annual Best of Raw contest, which accepts nominations and votes through their website bestofrawfoods.com. This is indeed an exceptional honour for her and a priceless praise for Gló. Towards the end of our meeting, I asked this ridiculously busy woman if she never gets tired. She smiled and said: “Yes, but I have so much passion. The passion keeps me going. The days have been long in preparing the opening of the new restaurant, but I have been giddy as a little girl from excitement. I am so utterly convinced that Hippocrates was right when he said that we are what we eat. People are just people, they all have to eat. I want them to eat well and feel welcome.”
Gló Laugavegur 20b, Reykjavik center, 101
34 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Sign seld grein
We are Sign Sign is a wonderful example of the power, dedication and entrepreneurship that have characterised Icelandic operations for centuries. But Sign has taken this unique way of thinking a step further; they have excelled at it. It started with a change of pace Sign was founded in 2004 by jeweller Sigurdur Ingi Bjarnason, known as Ingi. He had at that time been working as a goldsmith in Iceland for over a decade and was no stranger to the jewellery business. Eight years ago Ingi wanted a change and he was focusing on two things; creating his own jewellery line and spending more time with his children. So he started a business out of his garage (honestly, it doesn’t get any more Icelandic than that) and today he makes seven of the most popular design lines in Icelandic jewellery and the company has outgrown the garage a long time ago. But the funny thing is that his place of business still feels like home. Walking into the Sign workshop/ store at the Hafnarfjörður marina is quite an experience. This stylishly renovated fisherman’s hut has been their base since 2008 and was quite a step up from Ingi’s garage. A year ago they expanded again
but this time into the adjacent space at the marina, doubling the size of their work space. Sign has three full time goldsmiths and an intern working on the forging and two multi-tasking warriors that connect the company to the outside world. The spirit in the workplace is that of joy, team-spirit and fellowship and that’s the way the owner likes it. “This company is not just me. Sign only exists in its current form because of the people who work here” says Ingi and his assistant Katla adds: “We are all part of the chain and it is very important that we share the load and are linked into what the others are doing. That way we create the synergy effect that makes Sign so unique.” Forging the mystique of Icelandic nature The Sign jewellery is designed to be an experience. They are structured on the mystique of Icelandic nature, interwoven with the landscape, the lava and the sea,
fire and ice. Ingi has always emphasised good co-operation with other artists in Iceland and he is a firm believer in that artists of all genres need to stick together and help each other out. He has always been ardent in his support and one day he thought it would be fun to join some of his artist friends in a photo ad. As a result, the photo above is the third annual advertisement for Sign where Icelandic artists gather in a photo wearing Sign jewellery. By now these are awaited with anticipation and the result this year is particularly fantastic. You can find Sign products in 24 stores around the country, a list of retailers is on their website. They are very strong in the Icelandic market, both with their exceptional design and also with how well they service their retailers. Sign’s prime goal is to make top quality items and serve their clients the best they can. If you have the chance to stop by their workshop at the Hafnarfjörður marina, I guarantee that whether you are there for having them custom make the jewel of your dreams or wanting to look through their collections, a visit there will be nothing but interesting and pleasurable because their happy attitude is absolutely contagious.
Sign Fornubúðir 12, Hafnafjörður, 220. Tel: +354 555 0800
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
MyDestination - Reykjavik | 35
Celebrating Design Bringing style to Iceland since 1975 Epal is a company that is lovingly familiar to all Icelanders. It was founded almost 40 years ago when young Eyjólfur Pálsson returned from studying furniture design in Copenhagen. He soon realised that there were things missing in Iceland for him to carry through his projects in the way he would have chosen. It was this shortage that lead to the founding of Epal. Once upon a time ... Because the Industrial Revolution started late in Scandinavia, Swedish, Finnish and Danish designers created modern design using traditional materials and handcrafts back in the early 20th century and that use of easily available wood types and
36 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
traditional craftsmanship is a continuing Henningsen and timeless giftware by Iittala trend in Scandinavian design. Scandinavian and Georg Jensen have been available in furniture is of a unique and stimulating Epal for decades. But the list of design class and this widely known common term items available is extremely long and very applies to furniture from Sweden, Denmark, interesting. This is the sort of store you can Norway, Finland and Iceland. This type always walk out of feeling like you have of furniture has then evolved over the invested in beauty and style. years to confirm to The visionary the standards of This is the sort of store Eyjólfur’s objective modernity. Epal you can always walk out of through the years has been has always strived feeling like you have invested to increase understanding to offer the best and respect for good in beauty and style. of Scandinavian design and quality design at any products by introducing given time. first class design and offering noted Famous items such as The Egg and design labels from Scandinavia and other Series 7 by Arne Jakobsen, PH 5 by Poul
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
countries. But his main passion has always The stores revolved around supporting Icelandic With this beautiful vision as a guiding designers and he has strived to assist in light, Epal has flourished in the past promoting their work. In his own words: “I four decades and there are three Epal realised a long time ago that good things stores in Iceland. The flag store is located happen at a slow pace. When you feel like in Skeifan, Reykjavík, filled with love, things aren’t happening fast enough it is beautiful furniture, design ornaments and best to take a deep breath, look at things gorgeous crockery. Epal also have a store in perspective and realise that Iceland at Keflavik Airport Duty Free that focuses has an abundance of well educated, mainly on smaller design products and hardworking people doing great things and gifts, perfect for visiting on your way back working together in achieving their from your stay in Iceland. mutual goals. At Epal, we want to The most recent addition We offer support this in any way we can is a store in Harpa, the classical items that by helping Icelandic designers Reykjavik Conference never go out of put their ideas into action.” In an Hall and Concert Centre. style. article Eyjólfur published in 2004 Harpa has since its he addresses this point even opening in May 2011 further: “Up until now Iceland become one of the most has been far behind the other renowned architectural Nordic countries in supporting design and works of art in Iceland so it is very fitting designers. With a strong, joined effort we for Epal to have a store there and for could come a long way in improving the Icelandic and Scandinavian design to conditions of Icelandic designers who are shine and flourish within the walls of our advancing rapidly both home and abroad.” beloved and long-awaited music hall. Eyjólfur stepped down from running Epal When asked what era of furniture fashion in 2010 and handed the torch over to most impresses him, Eyjólfur replies: “It his son, Kjartan Páll Eyjólfsson. Eyjólfur is hopeless to speak of fashion when it admits that he still has strong opinions comes to furniture and house accessories regarding everything remotely related to and I would rather not do that. We offer the running of Epal but now that the store classical items that never go out of style. is in his son’s capable hands he has more I think it is very important for people to time to work on his passion: to help young invest in items that can withstand the test Icelandic designers make their way in the of time.” jungle out there.
Epal Skeifan 6, Reykjavik, 108 Tel: +354 568 7740
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
MyDestination - Reykjavik | 37
Step Back in Time with the Vikings What is the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Iceland? Björk, volcanic eruptions and heaps of snow? Well, you wouldn’t be too far off – but what about the Vikings? The Viking heritage is the cornerstone of Icelandic culture. These gritty, fierce guys who built the country originally, after having sailed over the North Atlantic on small boats, powered by sail and oars, sometimes in questionable weather and always with little to eat or drink. Without them, none of us would be here. Viking history at the heart of Hafnarfjörður The Viking Village in Hafnarfjörður has been a town landmark for over two decades. The two oldest houses in the village cluster were built in the mid-1800s. In the early 1900s the older of the two was connected to the fishing trawler industry of the town, which later became a flourishing fishing industry contributing to the growth and development of Hafnarfjörður. In
1985 the town council consented to have the house demolished but the National Committee of Building Preservation was against it and the building was saved. Since then, the Viking Village has been under constant care and renovation and has long since become a permanent part of the Hafnarfjörður landscape and culture. Dine and rest Viking style Although Vikings are (in)famous for their physical stamina, they still need to eat and sleep. The sleeping accommodation in the Viking Hotel now has 42 modern rooms available and is a very popular all year-round choice for travellers. The Viking Village has had a restaurant in operation since 1986 and now seats up to 500 people in the two houses, offering traditional Icelandic courses along with a mixture of mainstream dishes for everybody to enjoy. In all honesty, the Fjörukráin restaurant is an indispensable part of the Viking Village. The long hall has an authentic feel with its stone throne, rough-hewn tables, wall-
mounted animal heads, warrior shields, Norse god carvings and murals of major historic events. In the background you can hear minstrels regaling the audience with stories and songs. The experience is wonderful and quite unique. If your group is really into having Viking style fun, you can make plans for talented performers re-enacting a Viking kidnapping. This organized theatrical event can occur off the bus or when you least expect it. Trust me; nothing gets the party started like a Viking uproar! The Viking Village also hosts a number of events all year round, including Folklore Night in September and their annual and renowned Viking Festval in June. Among the spectacular occurrences are fight shows, storytelling, wrestling, archery and music and it is attended by visitors from both all over Iceland and abroad. A visit to the Viking Village would be an intriguing part of your visit to our island in the north. If you simply want to eat like the Vikings, that is on offer. If you want action and excitement, that can be arranged. But nowhere in the world will you find more experience and dedication in honouring the heritage of the gritty, fierce guys who got us to where we are.
The Viking Village Strandgata 55, Hafnarfjordur, 220 Tel: +354 565 1213
38 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
“One of the standouts in recent cookbook releases” Iceland Review “...captures the extraordinary otherworldliness of the Icelandic landscape” Lonely Planet Magazine
Into the North
beautifully illustrated cookbook, a culinary saga of Iceland Zest Magazine
Welcome to
Shopping In Smáralind you can get everything from watches to outdoor clothing, from toys to books. Afterwards you can enjoy one of the many restaurants and cafés available, before treating yourself to a movie or a visit to the award winning indoor amusement park.
40 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Smáralind is the largest shopping center in Iceland. In the 62.000 square meters of bright and elegant design which is warm and pleasant all year round, everybody should be able to find something to their liking. Smáralind has over 80 stores and restaurants and a variety of recreation and entertainment. The diverse services available in Smáralind include a beauty salon, a hair salon, a sewing firm and they even have a nice, inexpensive car wash next door. From Hygea‘s secret beauty salon to the international newspapers of the day at the Eymundsson bookstore, Smáralind has everything to meet your needs. You can visit the furniture and decor store Líf & list, go leather purse hunting at Drangey, or build up your
essential glacier hiking gear at one of three Icelandic clothing producers specialized in the great outdoors. Watches, engagement rings and design jewellery are available in Carat, Meba Rhodium, Leonard and Jón & Óskar Goldsmiths, to name only a few; some pieces are custom made, others are carved from Icelandic stones with themes inspired by Nordic mythology. How to get there Smáralind is conveniently located in the center of the greater Reykavik area. It is easy to access by car and the driving distance from downtown Reykjavík is a few kilometers and should only take about 10 minutes. Taking the bus to there is also quite simple, by using bus routes number 1, 2 or 28.
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
A wide variety Smáralind offers a number of renowned labels like Karen Millen, Boss, Debenhams, Esprit, Topshop, Body Shop, Mac, Ecco, Zara, Dorothy Perkins, United Colors of Benetton, Levi‘s, Pandora and many more. Being one of the two biggest shopping centers in Iceland, Smáralind is the place to be if you feel like adding a few items to your wardrobe. And if you get hungry, the restaurants in Smáralind are also of all shapes and sizes, from international chains such as TGI Friday‘s, Pizza Hut and Subway to local places like Serrano, Café Energia, Hlölli, Cafe Adesso and Sushi-gryfjan. For those who plan on spending time outdoors and are looking for Icelandic design in outdoor sports
clothing, Smáralind has 66°North, Cintamani and Zo-on Iceland, stores that can bring you virtually everything you could ever need to enjoy outdoor activities in Iceland, or anywhere else for that matter, at any time of the year. Recreation for all ages The Smáralind cinema, Smárabíó, is a world-class multiplex cinema with the capacity of 1,000 seats in five halls with perfect RealD 3D digital technology and equipment to broadcast live events in 3D. The Luxury hall at Smárabíó is designed for the most demanding visitors and it is without parallel in Iceland with first-class armchairs for 65 people and a top quality widescreen to ensure maximum comfort and
experience. After eight o’clock in the evenings the Luxury hall has an 18 years age limit. Smárabíó shows all foreign movies in their original languages but with Icelandic subtitles. Skemmtigarðurinn amusement park opened in Smáralind in November 2011 and has been hugely popular from day one. It is the only indoor amusement park in the country and its fan club is made up of children of all ages. It offers Laser Tag, a droptower for kids, a dark ride 7D cinema, bumper cars, bowling and an arcade to name a few. It also has a sports bar on the upper floor where the more mature generation can enjoy sports on TV and play pool. There is no way to walk by Skemmtigarðurinn without getting at least a hint of a smile on your face. The sounds of fun and laughter can be heard all the way into the street! The Skemmtigarðurinn amusement park was awarded the IAAPA award for 2012 best indoors amusement park in the world, which is something that Smáralind is very proud of and proves that this is an amusement park that delivers what it promises, to say the least.
Conveniently located just a few minutes from the Reykjavik city center, Iceland‘s biggest mall welcomes you with over 80 shops and businesses fulfilling your every shopping need.
Tax Free If you shop in Smáralind you can get your Tax Free return on the premises. The service desk on the 2nd floor receives Tax Free forms and the customer can get his refund there and then. This is a simple and convenient solution that simplifies your departure when leaving Iceland.
Smáralind Hagasmári 1, Kópavogur, 201 Tel: +354 528 8000 www.smaralind.is
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
MyDestination - Reykjavik | 41
The Kingdom of Steak It is a special place to walk into. The entrance is rather inconspicuous but after entering you find yourself in an almost medieval passageway that leads to a heavy wooden door. Behind it awaits half the kingdom in terms of good food. There’s a story The restaurant is not big, located on the first floor of Barónstígur 11, seating 80-100 people. I remember when I first came there in 2003. I was accompanied by a man whose interest in food was, and still is, a bit uncanny but at the same time absolutely adorable. We had only just sat down in our comfy booth surrounded by woodwork and heavy South-American decorations when he said: “I know we haven’t tasted the food yet but I already really, really like this place.” Once upon a time … Argentina Steakhouse was founded in 1989 and has since then been one of the rbest estaurants in Reykjavík. Having been owned by the same man since three months after it was founded makes it special. Having had only three head chefs in all that time
makes it unique. The taste of their char grilled beef and lamb is unparalleled and much to the surprise of many, given this is a Steakhouse, their fish menu is also out of this world with carefully selected fish, shellfish and lobster. There is simply nothing like having the purest ingredients in the world grilled on wooden coals. Add the roaring fireplace, the leather sofas and chairs and fine selections of wines and this will be a night to remember. Argentina was the first steakhouse in Iceland to offer steaks by weight and some of the courses on the menu have been there for the almost quarter of a century since the restaurant opened. The Icelandic ox and lamb have remained unchanged since the settlement of Iceland some 1000 years ago. The ox has a small body compared to elsewhere; it develops slowly which makes the meat
more stable and the muscles finer and more time for fat build-up. The Icelandic lamb is organic by nature; it is 100% drug free and feeds on herbs and shrubs in the Icelandic highlands that give it a gourmet game taste which is nowhere else to be found, and everybody knows that Icelandic seafood is the best in the world. When this is mixed with tradition, history, rustic leather, wooden interiors and impeccable service you get, the experience of dining out in Reykjavík becomes something else. … there was a prince. I have been to Argentina every year since that evening in 2003 with the same guy. After that first evening he insisted on us making this an annual thing. We are about to make reservations for our eleventh consecutive year in dining at Argentina Steakhouse on his birthday, he turns 21 in November. The atmosphere surrounding me dining out with my son on his big day has changed somewhat. Instead of drinking soda with our T-bone we order a nice bottle of wine, we stay longer and obviously talk about different things than when he was 11. What has not changed is Argentina Steakhouse. The high quality of the food and staff is the same; we are still greeted with flawless service and the best steak in town. In a society that changes all the time, with fashion going in its inevitable circles, it is priceless to have some things stay the same. Besides, as in the case of Argentina Steakhouse; if it’s perfect, why change it?
Argentina Steakhouse Baronsstigur 11a, Reykjavik center, 101 Tel: +354 551 9555
42 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
our very best price always awaits you online GRÍMSEY
ÞÓRSHÖFN
ÍSAFJÖRÐUR
VOPNAFJÖRÐUR AKUREYRI
GREENLAND ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLU 61919 11/12
ITTOQQORTOORMIIT
EGILSSTAÐIR
ICELAND
ILULISSAT NUUK KULUSUK REYKJAVÍK NARSARSUAQ
FAROE ISLANDS TÓRSHAVN
highly seductive offers to all our destinations websales@airiceland.is tel. +354 570 3030
The Icelandic Horse
A Faithful Servant and a Loyal Companion Someone once said that there are only two ways to properly explore Iceland; from the air and on horseback. All the SUV-owners in the country will probably beg to differ but there is at least some truth in this. The backstory Thousands of people in Iceland keep horses simply for the pleasure of riding and enjoying the companionship of these wonderful animals. The popularity of travelling on horseback has been growing continuously and Icelandic horsemen are considerate and respectful when it comes to both nature and their horses. The history of the Icelandic horse goes back to the country’s settlement in the late 9th century and the breed has remained pure for over a thousand years. There is and has always been only one breed of horses here – The Icelandic Horse. For centuries the horse was the only means of transportation and also the most important working animal, through the years it has been referred to as “our most essential servant”. Today there are close to 80.000 horses in Iceland, an incredible number for a nation of 300.000 people. The horse is used for riding, travelling and competition purposes and still plays a practical role in the annual sheep and horse round-ups in the highlands.
A first class riding center Íshestar is a 30 year old company and one of the most well-established horse rentals in Iceland. They provide scheduled day tours, country side tours and highland tours up to 10 days long with airport transfer, full board and accommodation. This is the real thing. The Íshestar Riding Centre is unique here in Iceland with first class facilities set in the beautiful surroundings just outside Reykjavík and endless possibilities in riding, hiking and other outdoor activities. The company also offers boat trips, jeep safari and horse shows on demand and their Riding Centre includes a spacious restaurant with a fully licenced bar. Tours on horseback The scheduled tours vary in shapes and sizes from half hour tours for children to ten days of riding in the highlands. The many various day tours include riding in the wonderful surroundings at Hafnarfjörður and other locations but also mixing and matching horse riding with a
visit to the Blue Lagoon, whale watching, biking, hiking and seeing the Northern Lights, to name a few. For longer trips, the country side and highland tours offers many irresistible possibilities, I urge you to visit Íshestar’s website to see what I mean. I myself have had the pleasure of exploring the Icelandic highlands on horseback on several occasions. There is absolutely nothing like it. If you have the remotest interest in horses (and honestly, even if you don’t) and are ready to explore the highlands of our beautiful volcanic island, I guarantee you that Íshestar will take you on the adventure of a lifetime.
Íshestar Sörlaskeið 26, Hafnarfjörður 221 Tel: +354 555 7000
44 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Tapas Done the Icelandic Way Walking along the the old fisherman‘s huts by Geirsgata has become very different to what it used to be a few years back. The activity in these old houses with the weird green colour has shifted from serving the small boat fishermen of Reykjavik to housing various restaurants, a gallery and a goldsmith to name a few. Taking a walk there on a calm evening has really become something else. One of the restaurants you will find in this lovely area is The Icelandic Tapas
House. Upon walking in there on a brisk Thursday evening in April, the first thing I noticed was the distinctive beat of the Spanish dance Flamenco and guitar music. The dance was being performed live on the upper floor. I was told they were experimenting with this event and I hope they continue with it, oh what fun! Not in any way less exciting was the menu. Gorgeous Tapas dishes to be selected individually or mixed by the house. We went for the Cuban mix and ordered a
pitcher of Sangria to go with it. I’m not sure if it was the Sangria talking, but eating in this restaurant made me feel happy inside. There is simply something heart-warming for an Icelander to be sitting in a renovated fisherman’s hut on a pier, looking out at the Atlantic Ocean and eating dish after dish of Spanish food that is so good it makes you want to take the chef home with you. But maybe it isn’t a wonder because the link to Spain is stronger here than one might imagine. The Icelandic Tapas House is located in a former fisherman’s hut built in 1921. In the old days, the house was operated as a Salt Cod establishment and almost all of the production was exported to Spain. So there is indeed a connection. Salt Cod therefore has an honorary seat on the menu but according to the Tapas tradition, the menu is filled to the brim with versatile ingredients and cooking methods from all over the world. Eating Tapas is supposed to be loud, colourful, diverse and fun. And here in the old hut in Geirsgata, it sure is.
Icelandic Tapas House Aegisgardur 2, Reykjavik center, 101 Tel: +354-512-8181
art by Hjörleifur Stefánsson developed in collaboration with Minjavernd Heritage Trust. This gives the area a unique atmosphere that gets accentuated even further as the tide rolls in and out of the artwork simultaneously to the tide in the current harbour.
An Adventure Under a Bridge This is not the story of the three goats, this is the slogan for one of the best seafood restaurants in town, a remark made by one of their first customers as he contentedly pushed his plate to the side. The Fish Company is located in one of the oldest houses in Reykjavik, commonly known as the Zimsen building. It dates back to 1884 and was
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
originally situated in Hafnarstræti, a few hundred meters east of its current location. In 2006 the house was completely renovated with tender loving care and then moved to Grófartorg in 2008 where it respectfully sits, under a bridge. During the groundwork stages of the Grófartorg reconstruction area, excavation revealed the remains of the older harbour. That has now been incorporated into “The Tides”, a work of
The menu is, as the restaurant name suggests, designed to take you on a seafood journey and not only a journey of the Icelandic culinary waters. With the Fish Company you get taken on a trip around the world, with top class marine cuisine melted together with themes from Japan, France, Sweden, Fiji, Ireland, Tahiti and the USA to name few. Dining at this restaurant is dining at its finest in Reykjavik. To my mind, this is a restaurant that you can always count on to make your evening something to remember. Add to that the wonderful surroundings of this this renovated lovely old house, whether having lunch or dinner, you are in for a treat.
The Fish Company Vesturgata 2a, Reykjavik center, 101 Tel: +354 552 5300
MyDestination - Reykjavik | 45
© Árni Torfason
Reykjavik Nightlife Icelandic Drinking Habits You couldn’t possibly plan a trip to Iceland without learning about the crazy Reykjavik nightlife along the way. Reykjavik at night is a place where mass public drinking is completely socially acceptable from Thursday evening to Sunday morning, even though it is technically illegal. Alcohol cannot be purchased in grocery stores in Iceland as beer, wine and hard liquor are exclusively sold in outlets run by the State Alcohol and Tobacco Company of Iceland, referred to by locals as “Ríkið” (The State). Due to the high price of alcohol in bars, many Icelanders like to “pre-game” at home before going out, which is why you probably won’t walk into a crowded bar or club until after midnight. It could also be the reason for the extremity of intoxication on the streets even after the clubs close. You see, Icelanders have a long and complicated history with alcohol. Alcohol was prohibited in Iceland from 1915 and the ban lasted to some extent until 1989. Don’t think that the laws were forced upon us by an evil government, Icelanders actually voted in favour of the ban in a 1908 referendum. Originally the ban prohibited all alcohol but twenty years after the prohibition went into effect it was partially lifted and only applied to beer. This was mainly for business reasons, as Spain refused to import fish from Iceland unless Iceland imported Spanish wines. The prohibition was lifted even further after a national vote in 1935 came out in favour of legalizing spirits. On March 1st in 1989 beer was finally legalized as well and ever since Icelanders have celebrated Beer Day on
46 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
that day. Beer is currently the most popular alcoholic beverage in Iceland. When at an Icelandic bar, you must seize the opportunity to taste some of our infamous original spirits. Brennivín (literal translation: burning wine) is our signature liquor, a brand of schnapps made from fermented potato mash and flavoured with caraway seeds. It is sometimes referred to as “Black Death”, doesn’t that sound good? Another drink we encourage you to try is Opal. Opal has the same taste and name as liquorice pastille drops that have been a very popular candy in Iceland for decades. When Quentin Tarantino appeared on Conan O’Brien after spending New
Year’s Eve in Iceland a few years ago he mentioned Opal, and this is what he had to say: “They have the foulest stuff ever made, it’s this liquor called Opal. I don’t really know what poison tastes like ‘cause if I did I would be dead, but if I had to imagine what poison would taste like, it would be this stuff Opal. Here’s the weird thing, it’s based on this candy that the Icelanders have been eating since they were little kids so they’re used to the taste, so they love it”. Then he proceeded to tell Conan about how Björk introduced him to the stuff, but that’s a whole other story. It’s not actually that bad. Reykjavik is filled with party animals of all ages. The legal drinking age in Iceland is 20 years. The drinking laws are fully enforced and taken seriously at bars and in liquor stores. You have to be at least 20 years old to get in to clubs and bars but some places don’t let you in unless you’re 22. Everyone should be able to find a place to their liking as long as they’re old enough. During the weekend most bars and clubs close at 4:30am and some at 3:00am. The legal opening hours used to be 5:30 but a little over a year ago the laws were changed. On weekdays most bars close at 1:00 am and some a bit earlier. There are plenty of noteworthy bars and clubs in Reykjavik.
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Lebowski bar Lebowski bar is a recent and welcome addition to Iceland’s bar culture. It’s a bowling themed diner and bar located on Laugavegur shopping street. The bar was designed in the spirit of the 1998 cult film “The Big Lebowski” by the Coen brothers. Lebowski bar is divided into four areas with separate themes - An American porch, a 50’s style diner/dance floor, bowling alley and a tree horn lounge bar on the upper floor. The house drink is a White Russian and you really must try one, they are delicious. Lebowski bar has quickly become quite popular among locals and travellers as it’s a good mainstream bar with playful surroundings and a good hangout place in general. English Pub The English pub is, as the name suggests, an English themed pub that serves 40 of the finest brands of beer, ale and whiskey to the thirsty people of Reykjavik. The famous “Wheel of Fortune” is a very popular feature of the English pub where one can win up to a metre of beer with a single spin if they’re lucky enough. The pub features cover bands and troubadours playing music appealing to a wide range of people every single night. When world famous actress Emma Watson came to Iceland last summer to shoot a film, she took one night off to party at the English pub, and she even sang for the crowd with her boyfriend. The English pub is also a popular sports bar, and all major games are shown on big screens. The English pub has a little something for everyone. Ölstofa Kormáks & Skjaldar Almost always referred to by locals as just “Ölstofan”, it’s a bar for people who like to keep things simple. Ölstofan is frequented by
local artists, writers and other intellectuals, and the clientele is mostly 30+. They have a great selection of beers from all over the world but you really must try Bríó, the house brew. Bríó was developed by Borg Brewery in collaboration with Ölstofa Kormáks og Skjaldar, and it won gold at the biggest and most prestigious beer competition in the world, World Beer Cup 2012, where a little less than 4000 beers fought for the big title. Unlike most bars in Reykjavik the music at Ölstofan is kept at a level where you can actually have a conversation over your drinks without yelling and there’s no dance floor. Ölstofan is a simple pub for people who like to go out but still take it somewhat easy. Faktorý Faktorý is one of the main concert venues in the city, and there is something happening there every night. It’s consists of a concert space on the second floor and two separate drinking- and dancing areas downstairs. Faktorý was named “Best newcomer bar” in Grapevine magazine’s best-of issue in 2011, and the “Best all-around bar” in 2012. Faktorý has gained a lot of popularity over the past year. It is one of the main venues for the Iceland Airwaves music festival and there are multiple concerts there every week. The clientele at Faktorý is mostly between the ages of 20-30 but many of the events there attract people of all ages. It’s not all concerts though, you can go there any night of the week to enjoy a glass of beer with your friends and hang out on the first floor. During the weekend Faktorý is an essential part of the city’s club culture, and people go there to dance the night away. B5 B5 is a trendy and upscale bar-bistro located in Bankastraeti in downtown Reykjavik. During the day people drop in to enjoy a cup of coffee and light dishes, but when the night falls they dim the lights and the atmosphere changes accordingly. B5 has a modern and sleek feel to it, thanks to contemporary and stylish Scandinavian interior. The main area turns into a dance floor shortly after midnight. Soon after that you’ll see the place fill up with good looking and well-dressed people dancing and drinking. There are two lounges at B5, the b-lounge and the white
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
whiskey room. The b-lounge is all red and white and able to seat up to 30 people, with a fully equipped sound system, a projector and fireplace. The white whiskey room is situated in an old bank vault, divided into several compartments and beautifully decorated. The in-house DJ’s help create an unforgettable nightlife experience every weekend. Austur From fabulous mosaic glass walls to flattering bathroom lighting, Austur is all about trend, class and appeal. Austur is one of the hottest clubs in downtown Reykjavik, and has been since it first opened in 2009. Located in Austurstraeti surrounded by other clubs and bars, Austur still manages to be the center of attention. The place looks modern, sleek and shiny, and the people who frequent Austur seem to be fashioned after the interior. The beautiful people flock there every weekend to listen to live DJ’s and dance into the night. Dressy attire is preferred. The bar offers a wide selection of cocktails, shots, wines and beer. Groups can buy a VIP table with a complimentary bottle of choice. If you’re in the mood for a fabulous night surrounded by beauty and luxury, we suggest that you start your nightlife adventure at Austur. Kaffibarinn Kaffibarinn is without a doubt the best known bar in Reykjavík for many good reasons. It was founded back in the early nineties and has since then been featured in the cult film 101 Reykjavík, frequently visited by Björk and other Icelandic celebrities and partially owned by singer Damon Albarn. Kaffibarinn has been the centre of Icelandic nightlife for years and for some reason it never goes out of style. It’s a cosy bar on most weekdays, softly lit and nicely decorated but as the weekend gets closer the atmosphere changes. Kaffibarinn is the perfect place to meet new people, dance on chairs, hang out with friends, have philosophical conversations with complete strangers or get wasted. It’s a place where anyone can have fun, no matter where they come from, how old they are, how they dress or what they do.
MyDestination - Reykjavik | 47
The History of Iceland in 10 Short Steps Iceland is a proud nation with a rich history. From the world’s oldest democratic parliament, to an economic crash of unprecedented size, Icelanders have a lot to boast about, and they‘re usually not shy to do so. Here we present, for the first time ever, the complete, not-reallyunabridged History of Iceland, in just 10 short items. This is your unique chance to read up on major events in the history of Iceland, without having to sift through thousands of pages. Now...Let‘s start at the very beginning. 16-18 Million Years Ago: The Formation of Iceland Iceland lies on the intersection of the American and Eurasian tectonic plates. When they started drifting apart, around 16 million years ago, it caused a major volcanic eruption, resulting in the creation of Iceland! Even today, the island still sits on a volcanic hotspot, creatively named, “The Iceland Plume” – resulting in a multitude of earthquakes every year and volcanic eruptions every few years as well. 871 AD: The Settlement of Iceland A Norwegian named Ingólfur Arnarsson killed a man and was exiled from his home country. He sailed to a legendary land in the west with two ships. People from the Nordics engaged in a massive
land grab in this uninhabited country, taking with them Irish slaves, resulting in a Norse-Celtic mix of genes in Iceland. Thanks to the almost obsessive fixation of early Icelanders with genealogy, most modern Icelanders can still trace their family lines back to this time. As a matter of fact, Icelanders can look up their entire family history on a single website, and they even have an app called Íslendingabók that makes sure they don’t date their (close) relatives. 930 AD: Parliament Established Being a land of renegades and runaways with no king, some system of government had to be instituted. The people of Iceland went ahead and created Althing, the oldest democratic parliament that still exists today. In each area there was
© Vovan UK
48 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
a chieftain (Goði), a political and religious leader. Every summer, all the chieftains would meet at Parliament Fields (Þingvellir) to discuss laws and settle disputes. Every year, the law speaker, standing on top of the Law Rock, would say a third of the law, completely from memory. This way, the whole law was heard every three years. The law was later written down in the book Grágás, which still exists today. Contained therein are practical laws, such as the penalty for your pet polar bear killing someone. The parliament functions to this day, uninterrupted aside from a period of 45 years from 1800 to 1845. 1000 AD: Conversion to Christianity, Discovery of America Until the tenth century, the predominant religion in Iceland was “Ásatrú”, the worship of the Norse gods, Óðinn, Þór and the like. In the 980s Christian missionaries started spreading the faith, leading to violent confrontations. The two factions asked Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði Þorkelsson to mediate. He lay under a bear hide for a day and a night eventually coming to the conclusion that Iceland should be a Christian country. However worshipping the old gods was allowed as long as nobody found out! Iceland remained Roman Catholic until 1540, when it converted to Lutheran Protestantism. The Catholic bishops Jón Arason and Ögmundur Pálsson violently opposed the reformation. That opposition came to an abrupt end with the beheading of Jón Arason in 1550.
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
The year 1000 is also when Leif “The Lucky” Ericson discovered America, or “Wine-land” as he called it. He was planning on sailing to Greenland, but was blown off course to the west, where he saw land. He later sailed there and attempted to settle, but gave it up after conflicts with the locals. These and other stories are written down in the sagas of the Icelanders, an extensive body of 13th century writings. 1262 AD: Iceland Submits to Norway In the years leading up to 1262, the Icelandic chieftains gradually became more and more powerful, until the whole country was in a state of constant civil war between 7 powerful clans. In order to end to the war, the leaders submitted peacefully to Haakon IV, king of Norway. The story is preserved in saga of the Sturlungs, written down as the events were taking place or shortly after. Later, in the 14th century, the Kingdoms of Norway, Denmark and Sweden became one kingdom, and when they split up again Iceland somehow wound up under Danish rule. Even today Icelanders are confused and even a little sore about the whole situation.
Skúli Magnússon was a man of the enlightenment. He picked Reykjavík to become the center of modernization, and pioneered the building of wool workshop buildings, one of which still stands, on Aðalstræti 10. This marked the beginning of Iceland’s rise out of the dark ages. 1845 AD: The Re-Establishment of the Parliament and the Independence Movement The enlightenment came to Iceland, and with it, nationalism. Chief among the Icelandic independence campaigners was Jón Sigurðsson, whose birthday, June 17th, was later chosen as the Icelandic Independence day. The movement led to the re-establishment of the Icelandic parliament as an advisory body to the king in 1845. This was followed by home rule in 1905, sovereignty in 1918 and independence in 1944, when Denmark was too busy being invaded by Germany to do much about it. 20th Century: The World Wars and Modernization Industry and urbanization was growing, but Iceland had quite a lot of catching up to do. 1900-1910 saw such novelties as electricity, the first car and the first trawler, which marked the beginning of the still-important fishing industry. In the
world wars, selling products to the allies and servicing the American occupying force brought an economic boom and cultural influence, such as TV and jazz. This catapulted Iceland into the 20th century and still today the Icelandic culture has an incredible fascination for new and foreign things, technology and culture. Crash and Miraculous Recovery Since the 1950s, Iceland’s economy was characterized by rather high inflation. In the late 1990s, the commercial banking system was privatized and the law was changed to ease restrictions on trade. Following an incredible growth in everything financial, the bubble finally burst in a spectacular manner, in October 2008. The currency of Iceland, the Króna, fell by 50% overnight. People lost their jobs, their houses, and their livelihood and finally to top it all, McDonalds left the country. Since then, Iceland has caught the attention of the international community because of how quickly the economy has recovered. Industry is operational and unemployment is under control, but wages and prices are still quite low, which means it’s a good time to visit for people with foreign money.
1602: Monopoly (not the fun kind) In the 1500s, English and German fishermen and traders set up posts in Iceland and traded with the Icelanders. Seeing a mutually beneficial situation which brought prosperity to his subjects, Christian IV King of Denmark naturally decided he wasn’t having it. He granted exclusive rights to trade in Iceland to certain merchants. It is hard to overstate how devastating this decision was. Danish merchants could pay as little as they wanted for Icelandic goods, and charge what they wanted for imports. It led to the nation of Iceland wallowing in abject poverty, basically until the monopoly was abolished in 1786. The 1750s: The Enlightenment and the Birth of Reykjavík Until the middle of the 1750s, Reykjavík was just a single farm, and Iceland had no towns or villages of any kind. Sheriff
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
© Harpa
MyDestination - Reykjavik | 49
Tax & Duty Free
Ă?SLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLE 64277 05/13
Experience Iceland All of our shops and restaurants offer you Icelandic memories to take home.
Nearby Landmannalaugar
One of few airports in the world that is both tax and duty free — meaning up to 50% off city prices.
Precious Family Design and Endless Variety Visit Jón & Óskar, one of Reykjavík‘s most established watch and jewellery stores. They will be happy to see you.
The idea of Icecold first emerged in the year 2000 and has been constantly growing and developing ever since
52 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
The owners and founders, Jón Sigurjónsson master goldsmith and Óskar Óskarsson master watchmaker have over 40 years of experience under their belts and their store in Laugavegur 61 is the largest of its kind in the country. TLC all the way They are renowned for their personal service. Customer care has always been Jón & Óskar’s forte and they pride themselves in serving their clients the best they can. Their collection of engagementand wedding rings is one of the largest in Iceland and the store has a special room for happy couples to view engagementand wedding rings in private. For a time the company even offered to drive the newlyweds on the big day in a Rolls Royce
’72, owned by Jón Sigurjónsson himself. The store includes members of the watchmaking and goldsmith associations and they offer professional quality service. They commission a large number of brand names and direct trading ensures the best prices. Jón & Óskar was divided into jewellery and watches from the beginning. The staff have always been specialised in serving customers in each department because Jón and Óskar started off by emphasising that their employees are well educated in their field. In 1987 the company had ten employees in watchmaking, forging jewellery, repairs and customer service. In an interview from that year Óskar describes their selection of watches: “We
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
have a wide variety of top products which we import directly. The Pierre Cardin pieces have become very popular, they are practically time-measuring jewels. We also have Delma, Casio, Seiko and Chizen. These are all quality brand names, we offer nothing else.” To this day their imported jewellery has come from renowned manufacturers in Germany, Belgium and Italy. To the same extent their workshop has a long history of designing and forging and the latest addition in jewellery lines is Icecold. The idea of Icecold first emerged in the year 2000 and has been constantly growing and developing ever since.
Main street shopping The history of commerce at Laugavegur goes hand in hand with the history of Reykjavík and the location of Jón & Óskar has always been a big advantage for their business. The road construction of Laugavegur was approved in the town council in 1885 and its original purpose was to facilitate travel to the hot springs used by maids and housewives to wash the laundry (the preface “lauga-“ means “spring-“ in English). The street soon became the hub of shopping and commerce in Reykavík and consequently in the country. When Jón Sigurjónsson and Óskar Óskarsson founded their company in 1971 they opened their
first store in a 50 square meter cellar at Laugavegur 70. That space soon became restricting as the business took off so they soon extended to the east into the next building. In 1995 there was a revolutionary change when they moved to a spacious and elegant store space in Laugavegur 61 and became the largest jewellery- and watch retailer in Iceland. Today they also have stores in Kringlan and Smáralind shopping centres and as ever before, their devoted staff welcomes you to stop by and aim to make sure you find what you are looking for.
Jón & Óskar Kringlan Reykjavik center, 103 Tel: +354 552 4910
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
MyDestination - Reykjavik | 53
The Light of Our Lives Iceland, silly as the name can seem during the summer months, was named so for a reason. In the old days, before electricity and heating when the cold and dark actually killed people, self-preservation and innovation were the key to surviving. It is a wonderful thing that one of the best known brands in Icelandic export is a product that has helped the Icelandic nation survive since the settlement. It‘s called lýsi and we are so proud of it. Our Norwegian settlers brought with them the knowledge of how to process lýsi which in simplified terms is oil from the livers of the animals in the sea. They made it from whale, shark, fish, seal and even birds and used it as fuel for light, to calm waves, to soften and protect the clothing of seafarers and as a nutritional supplement for both humans and animals. For a time it was even used as currency, as sources from as far back as 1096 state that church taxes in Iceland were paid in the form of this life saving, smelly liquid. The name “lýsi“ comes from the product having been used as lamp oil, in Icelandic the verb “lýsa“ means „to illuminate“ and when living this close to the Arctic Circle one can only imagine how precious it must have been to be able to have light in the house. Add to that the fact that lýsi is a valuable source of vitamins A and D (in a country where the sun is absent most of the time and low in the sky when it does show its face) and it becomes an understatement
to say that lýsi has had a real impact on survival in this country. The method of processing lýsi from the liver in the old days was, in the simplest terms I can think of, something like this: They dug a hole, put the liver in the hole and waited for the oil to squirt out. Nevertheless, Lýsi was the biggest export product of Iceland as early as the 14th century, along with dried fish and woollen cloth. The beginning In 1938 a man named Tryggvi Ólafsson founded a production and export company and called it simply LYSI . He had then spent the decade before trading and experimenting with lýsi, first in a small lab he prepared in his home. At the time he founded LYSI, the company was considered a pioneer in the production of marine lipids and later became a global leader in the field. The company’s research has been on-going for decades and today LYSI is at the world forefront of research and product development. Tryggvi had a seat on the board until he was 96 years old and it was in the year 1981 that the first non-family member became president of the company. In 1999 the company changed owners again and has been run by Katrín Pétursdóttir and her family since then. Katrín is the granddaughter of Tryggvi Ólafsson. Her parents left LYSI in 1981 and founded Fiskafurðir, a company
in similar ventures as LYSI. It was a happy day when they gained ownership of what had been founded by her grandfather over 60 years earlier. In April 2007, LYSI was awarded the President of Iceland’s Award for Export Achievement for its “unique achievement in the sales and marketing of marine lipid products and for the vision the company demonstrates in product development and for the build-up of knowledge and expertise in its field.” the rest is history Every child in Iceland knows that there is no way of growing up to be big and strong without having a spoonful of Lýsi with breakfast every day. They have no idea what Omega-3 and vitamins A and D do for them and at that point they don‘t care. This is tradition. This is what mummy and daddy raise them to do because their parents told them to and that has been the way of things in this country for hundreds of years. But the LYSI product line has more to offer than just classic cod liver oil in a glass bottle. The company now has various production lines, including shark liver oil, omega-3 fish oil and various blister products where in addition to the lýsi itself the customer is provided with vitamins and minerals to go with the ever so healthy liver oil we all love. But the majority of the company’s turnover comes from a tradition of 700 years, exporting cod liver oil in bulk. And in a country that is consumed with nostalgia, you can just begin to imagine how loving and respecting LYSI is branded into our dark-enduring, hard-working Icelandic soul. It’s part of who we are. Simple as that.
54 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
A Journey to the Center of the Earth and more Taking a glimpse of the wonders of Snæfellsnes Peninsula Snæfellsnes has everything and a bag of chips! In Snæfellsnes you can see a microcosm of all Iceland in a convenient Reykjavik Excursions day trip from Reykjavik. It has majestic mountain views, black-sand beaches and a volcano and glacier rolled into one (a Volclacier? A Glacano?) and scattered around the scenery you find quaint little towns with interesting histories, as told by their local folk museums. Snæfellsjökull – The Entrance to the Center of the Earth. One of the most interesting things on Snæfellsnes is without a doubt Snæfellsjökull glacier, which sits atop an active volcano at the tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. The volcano is 700.000 years old and has erupted about 20 times since the last ice age. In his book a “Journey to the center of the earth” Jules Verne used Snæfellsjökull as the point of entry through which Lidenbrock and his team start their journey.
In the park, among other things, you will find Djúpalónssandur black-sand beach. There you can test your strength with the three rocks, Strong, Full-Strong and Half-Strong. These were used by sailors of ages past to compete in strength and the heaviest one is 154 kg! (339 pounds!) Arnarstapi Arnarstapi is a long-abandoned fishing village which comes to life in the summertime, with fishermen sailing from the harbour and people spending their summers in local cottages. It has a camp ground, an inn and a restaurant. Here you can hike around the surrounding area and enjoy the mind-blowing rock formations of the coastlines from the observation deck to which the RE tour will take you. Stykkishólmur. Stykkishólmur is a picturesque and beautiful fishing town with only 1100 inhabitants, but this doubles in the summertime with all the fishermen and tourists. It serves as the center of transportation for the area – it’s where
you catch the ferry for Flatey Island and Brjánslækur in the Westfjords. The town has many wooden houses from the 19th and early 20th century. The oldest of these is the Norwegian House, built in 1832, which now houses the local folk museum. Stykkishólmur also has a volcano museum and a swimming pool, among other things. From Stykkishólmur you can also catch one of a selection of fascinating boat tours, which also available through Reykjavik Excursions. Among them are scenic tours where you can explore the whales, dolphins and the incredibly diverse birdlife of the Breiðafjörður bay. On at least one of the tours you can even sample “Viking Sushi” - seafood fresh from the sea. That’s just three of the countless interesting things to see, not even mentioning the scattered little farms, the area’s rich history (the peninsula was where the Saga of the Icelanders, one of the main historical sources of Iceland was written, as well as being the setting of the ancient Laxdæla), the magnificent Gerðuberg basalt columns, mountains like Helgafell and Hólahólar(the Hill-hills), and many other things. To learn more, book a trip and see for yourself! Tours of the whole area and all the sights are available through Reykjavik Excursions.
Reykjavik Excursions BSI Bus Terminal, Vatnsmyrarvegur 10, Reykjavik center, 101 Tel: +354 564 4776 56 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
golden circle tOurS
Book now via your smartphone!
ouR app is
FREE
WE’ll tAkE YOu thErE! All thE mOSt EXciting PlAcES in icElAnd
You can easily buy your tour with us now!
Available! in the Android Play Store & Apple App Store.
Book now at your reception
More Tours available in our brochures
by calling 580 5400
and on ouR wEBsiTE www.RE.is
on www.re.is
Free wiFi Hotspot on board our coaches.
grEAt vAriEtY OF dAY tOurS! Snæfellsnes Activity tOurS
reykjavík city
South Shore tOurS
EXPO · www.expo.is
tOurS
tOurS
BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík +354 580 5400 main@re.is • www.re.is
R O
How to Relax in Reykjavik Laugar Spa is the perfect place to go and forget all your worries! Do you want to relax during your holiday? Laugar Spa is an all-round wellness center for the whole family! Their outdoor and indoor thermal pools, beauty and massage clinic, along with the unique fitness center combined with a luxury spa, will help you breeze into a wonderful and relaxing holiday.
feet in a special foot-bath, switch between hot and cold showers in special cubicles or enjoy delicious food and drink in one of the three restaurants on the premises.
Laugar is the country‘s largest health center establishment. Their philosophy is that everyone should be able to find a leisure activity to fit their needs. At Laugar, you can mix and match your own personalized leisure programme, and afterwards you will feel so much better in both body and soul.
The Salon Laugar Spa is also a beauty and massage salon where professionals ensure that guests get good service and excellent relaxation away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. They use products from the world-famous brands Guerlain and Comfort Zone. The treatments offered present a combination of ancient wisdom and modern knowledge, mixed with the benefits of nature.
Hot and cold In Laugar Spa you enter an aquatic haven. Six different saunas and steam rooms are available, each one with a different theme. You can experience sounds of nature and a starry night sky and inhale different aromas. You can soothe tired limbs in a Thalasso therapy Jacuzzi, rejuvenate tired
The atmosphere in Laugar Spa is very relaxed and designed to help create the best possible experience for every guest. Try the famous relaxation room, where you can lay on the comfortable benches around a centrally located fireplace. Perfect to shut your eyes and forget all your worries!
Laugar Spa & fitness Sundlaugarvegi 30a, Reykjavik Area, 105 Tel: +354 553 0000
58 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
LIVE MUSIC EVERY NIGHT! All the games and all the action on 5 Big HD Screens. Icelandic Beer on draft. Outside area in the sun.
Save Water, Drink Beer AUSTURSTRÆTI 12 • 101 REYKJAVÍK • ENSKIBARINN@ENSKIBARINN.IS
Experience Iceland at Keflavík International Airport Duty Free Icelandic products, food, and art We hope you’re looking forward to your stay in Iceland, or perhaps you’re on your way back home? In that case, we hope you’ve enjoyed your stay in Iceland! Regardless of which way you’re currently travelling, did you know that Keflavík International Airport (KEF) is one of only a few airports in the world that offers both Tax and Duty Free in all of its stores?
Not only that, whether it’s your first point of call, or you final memory, KEF’s undeniable Icelandic atmosphere will make your travelling experience more memorable. What d’ya mean ‘Icelandic atmosphere’ in an airport you say? Well, there’s more than meets the eye in KEF’s Duty Free shopping area and Leifur Eiríksson terminal, there’s bountiful amounts of Icelandic-ness for your senses to enjoy. Whilst you’re waiting for you flight home, or wherever you’re travelling to,
60 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
there are a variety of Icelandic delicacies to try out, some more adventurous than others. For example, Icelandic flatbread with smoked lamb and horseradish; Icelandic pylsur (hotdogs) with threetypes of sauces and two-types of onions; Skyr, the famous dairy-based yoghurt; putrescent shark; and boiled sheep’s head. Of course everyone loves to shop, despite what some people say. The KEF Duty Free area sells the latest in electronic products and all such things. But more importantly, KEF specialises
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
in selling and promoting Icelandic-made products and one-of-a-kind items as unique as Iceland itself. Available in the Duty Free area you can find everything from novelty Iceland underwear to high-end Icelandic-design jewellery and crafts. You can also pick up cosmetics made from the purest Icelandic-glacial water, silica, and algae. Feeling thirsty? KEF’s Duty Free area gives you the opportunity to purchase Icelandic soft-drinks, kókómjólk, and alcoholic beverages, including Brennivín, an unsweetened schnapps known as “Black Death”. Fancy a snack? You can also purchase Icelandic sweets, chocolate and baked goods for your journey home. If there’s one thing Icelanders know how to design better than anyone else in the world it’s outdoor clothing, as the weather in Iceland can sometimes be savage. Icelanders understand how water-resistant jackets and thermal vests are vital pieces of clothing whilst being in the great outdoors. Handmade Icelandic-wool sweaters (lopapeysa) are probably the most-famous exports
from Iceland, and popular amongst Icelandophiles (lovers of Iceland). Known for their projection, comfort and striking designs, lopapeysas are perfect souvenirs for the whole family, as well as Iceland-wool mittens, hats, and scarves - all of which are available for less at KEF’s Duty Free area. You may or may not have noticed the incredible art work within the terminal. KEF is proud to exhibit pieces that are inspired by the Icelandic landscape and spirit. One such installation can be found right before departures; titled Áttir (Directions), the four cardinal points of the compass are represented by four aluminium human-like figures placed on top of columnar basalt plinths. The piece, by Steinunn Þórarinsdóttir, allows passengers to stand in the middle of it and experience the installation by becoming its central focus. In fact, Þórarinsdóttir’s statues can be found in Reykjavík, Hafnarfjörður, Grundarfjörður, Akureyri, and Ísafjörður – so in essence, the piece brings together different parts of Iceland into the airport. Have you been sharing your Icelandic experiences with your friends and
family online? Are you big Tweeters? Instagramers? Facebookers? In KEF’s Leifur Eiríksson terminal you can connect to the Internet via your own laptop, smartphone, or tablet using the airport’s wireless connection for free. This way you have the option to let them know how much fun you’re having/had, or just to make them extremely jealous! Oh, and one final thing that’s worth mentioning, Keflavík International Airport was voted as the best small airport in Europe by an extensive airport service survey conducted by the Airports Council International. As part of the survey, participants answered a number of questions about the quality of more than 36 service factors, such as its helpfulness and courtesy of staff, ease of flight connections, cleanliness, check-in times, and for the overall customer satisfaction – just so you know that you’re in good hands; correction, good Icelandic hands.
Keflavik International Airport Keflavik Airport, 235 Tel: +354 425 6000
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
MyDestination - Reykjavik | 61
Big City Feel in a Small Town It’s the place where the locals feel at home. So will you. When I walked into Café Paris to interview the manager I was for some reason expecting the place to be closed. After all, it was 10 am on a Thursday and I figured that if the staff were in fact already there then they were probably just getting ready for the day. To my surprise it was not only open but fairly busy with people eating breakfast and having coffee. I noticed and elderly man sitting at a table facing the bar when he called out the waiter’s name and asked if they had a certain type of croissants. „Wow, a regular, how cozy” I thought and proceeded to ask for the manager. After we sat down on the next table she told me that he was not the only regular customer, not by far. For example a group of 14 people have met there every morning for 20 years, not always all of them but always sitting at the same table. The staff calls them “the wise men” and there are pictures of some of them on the wall. By that time it started to dawn on me that there was something very special about this place. The location The house that Café Paris is in was built in 1925. There was a big fire in downtown Reykjavík in 1915 which destroyed everything that had been on that spot before. After the fire, the particular property Café Paris stands on was called “The golden spot“. It was very expensive and because of that it went unsold for 10 years. It finally went to Mayor Jón Þorláksson who built the house sparing no expense. It was the second house in all of Reykjavik to have an elevator in it, which was a clear sign of prosperity back then. There have been various operations in the building throughout the years, such as restaurants, clothing stores and a kiosk. Axel Ketilsson and his sister Soffía bought
62 | MyDestination - Reykjavik
the house in 1936, in which Axel’s wife ran a women’s clothing store, featuring the latest Paris fashion. On top of that, Axel’s daughter studied in Paris, making the city dear to the family, which really made the naming choice easy, when Axel’s son, Ketill, opened up Café París back in 1992. Originally they served crépes and cakes, immediately becoming a huge success, serving up to 500 customers every day before changing owners. The change In 2005 Ketil‘s family decided to sell the business, and the current owner, Grétar Ingi Berndtsen invested in the whole building along with the café. He soon decided to make changes, both in the accommodation and the menu. “We found ourselves having to re-think everything” says manager Guðný Atladóttir. “We calculated how many seats we needed and decided to turn the focus onto creating a pub culture in the evenings and expand the patio outside the café. We had to close for 6 weeks during the renovations. Everybody had an opinion and critics claimed that we were making a huge mistake and that the spirit of Café Paris would disappear with the changes. Today we get over one thousand customers per day during the summer and all the regulars still come here every day so I guess we have thoroughly proven them wrong“ Guðný says and smiles. The place to be But what is it that makes Café Paris so special? “I actually gave this question some thought last year” she says laughing. “For tourists, Café Paris is simply part of seeing downtown Reykjavik. Our clientele during the summer months is 50/50 tourists and locals so this is where people mix. We get
many people from the Icelandic media in here, lawyers from the court house and also groups of friends that come here every week, same weeknight, year after year. In December we have groups from the kindergartens during the day, small children that come in with their nannies for hot cocoa and ginger bread cookies. We have college and university students coming and going all day. This is where the locals and the tourists mix and mingle. We are first and foremost a restaurant; the magic in here is a free side dish.” I have to agree with her and I hate to leave. There is just something so irresistible about sitting by these huge 87 year old windows and watching the people, both inside and outside. Café Paris will be celebrating its 20th anniversary in the next months and has had a 35% increase in turnover this year. I’m not surprised. “Every detail matters and every day has its charm. We never know how the day will turn out when we turn up in the morning. All we know is that everybody at Café Paris has a common goal; to keep the customer satisfied.”
Café París Austurstræti 14, Reykjavik center, 101 Tel: +354 551 1020
Locally Informed, Globally Inspired
Connect to the largest 3G coverage in Iceland
Use Frelsi Prepaid to stay in touch with friends and family
siminn.is I @siminn on Twitter
Pay less with Frelsi Prepaid It can be costly to use your regular phone card overseas. Buy a prepaid SIM card package, which includes a mobile number and an ISK 2000 voucher, in any SĂminn store and in kiosks, gas stations and grocery stores.
ICELANDIC WOOL
WORN OUT FOR CENTURIES We of fer clot h i n g & ot her mer ch a nd is e t h at r em i nd s u s of go o d old Ic el a nd
– V i s it ou r s t or e s : 101 R e y k ja v í k , A k u r e y r i a n d G e y s i r, H a u k a d a l . w w w. g e y s i r. n e t –