What's On in Reykjavik - September 2016 by MD Reykjavik

SEPTEMBER 2016 IN REYKJAVÍK

REYKJAVIK’S LEADING GUIDE TO INFORMATION, EVENTS, MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES.

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WHAT’S ON

CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2016

ON THE COVER THE NORTHERN LIGHTS

EXPERIENCE 6-31

WHAT’S ON

32-41

REYKJAVÍK CITY MAP 42-43

MUSEUM WALK

44-45

EVENT CALENDAR

46-61

ART & CULTURE

62-67

NIGHTLIFE 68-69

SHOPPING & STYLE

70-73

FOOD & DRINK

74-79

PRACTICAL INFO

80-83

They’re here! We haven’t seen them all summer and between you and me, we’ve been starting to miss them. I’m talking, of course, about the Northern Lights, the fluttering ribbons of lights that sometimes stretch over the starry sky above us here in Iceland. Sound magical? Well, that’s pretty much because it is. Standing outside in Icelandic nature, with a dramatic background of Icelandic mountains, but no trees to block your view, watching the green lights dance across the night sky is pretty damn great. Iceland does not have a lot of folklore or superstitions regarding the Northern Lights like many other nations living this far north do. They were mostly thought to be an indicator of changes in weather. The one exception is the story of Einar Ben, an entrepreneur/poet in the early 20th century. At a time when Iceland was for all intents and purposes a third world country, Einar Ben had high hopes for Iceland’s economy. A born salesman, Einar could sell anything to anyone and in fact, the story goes that at one point, he sold the Northern Lights to a foreign investor! I can’t guarantee how truthful the story is, but it’s a good story nonetheless. It’s always been said of Einar that his ideas were way ahead of his time and that’s been proven once again with the increased tourism in Iceland. Iceland had an economic collapse, followed by a miraculous recovery led by a booming tourism industry. We have indeed, indirectly, sold the Northern Lights!

Layout & design: Stefán Birgir Stefáns, sbs@sbs.is Content writers: The What’s On Team

Map: Kári Gunnarsson

Printing: Oddi, Ecolabelled Printing Company

Managing Editor: Hjörtur Atli Guðmunds. Geirdal, hjortur@whatson.is, Tel.: 847-4153. Editor: Gréta Sigríður Einarsdóttir, greta@whatson.is 141

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Volume 34 – Issue 9 Published by MD Reykjavik ehf. Laugavegur 5, 101 Reykjavik. Publisher: Sigurþór Marteinn Tel.: 899-2255. E-mail: sm@whatson.is

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WHAT‘S ON IN REYKJAVIK is published monthly, covering events and happenings in and around Reykjavik. Opinions expressed in WHAT‘S ON IN REYKJAVIK are those of the individual authors. While every effort has been made to ensure the information presented is accurate, prices, times, dates and other information may be subject to change.

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THE WHAT’S ON

SEPTEMBER CHECKLIST You can find checklists from past months at whatson.is/

There are loads of things to do for entertainment in Reykjavik this month! Here are a few “must-do’s” you can try out.

While you're checking things off the list, we encourage you to take photos, and tag them with #whatsonrvk, of course!

Go see the Northern Lights, of course! Check out Nordic Music Days, founded in 1888, making it one of the oldest music festivals Pay a visit to the Icelandic National museum and get acquainted with the birth of the nation. Take a walk through Hljómskálagarðurinn to look at those gorgeous autumn colours. Go swimming in an Icelandic geothermally heated swimming pool. Get some lamb and potatoes. Harvest season brings exceptionally good ingredients to markets and restaurants. If you plan on going out of town, go berry picking! Two types of blueberries and crowberries are the most common berries in Iceland.

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EXPERIENCE

THE REYKJAVIK SIGHT EXPERIENCE Reykjavik sightseeing has something for everyone! The city is filled with things to do, places to go and stuff to see, but some things are just a little bit more important than others.

1 | HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA Hallgrímskirkja church is one of Reykjavík’s most iconic buildings and is visible from almost anywhere in the city. It’s is the largest church and the sixth tallest architectural structure in Iceland. The church tower offers a fantastic view of the city for the small price of 900ISK for adults or 100ISK for children. It’s named after the Icelandic poet and clergyman Hallgrímur Petursson, author of the Passion Hymns. The architect, Guðjón Samúelsson, designed it to resemble the basalt lava flows of Iceland’s landscape. Construction started in 1945 and was finished in 1984.

2 | PERLAN Standing at 25 metres, Perlan is one of Reykjavík’s most striking buildings. Up on the fourth level, there is a 360 degree viewing platform where you can get the city's best panoramic views. During the day, the Perlan café is a nice place to get coffee or ice cream. If you come in the evening, the Perlan restaurant has some of the finest cuisine in the city. The restaurant also rotates slowly so you get to see the whole city without even having to turn your head.

3 | TJÖRNIN

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Tjörnin (the pond) is the heart of the city centre and offers some of the most amazing views in Reykjavík. There is no better place in the city to enjoy a beautiful sunset and you can watch or feed a huge variety of birdlife that calls the lake home, while you’re at it. When the lake freezes over in winter, geothermal water is pumped in to defrost an area for the birds, and feeding them is a popular family pastime all year round. Those who can handle the cold take to the lake on ice skates.

4 | AUSTURVÖLLUR When the sun is shining and the air is hot, Austurvöllur is the place to be. Surrounded by cafés and restaurants on Vallarstræti and Pósthússtræti, this public square is a wildly popular spot for locals to dine outside, soak up some sunshine or recline in the grass with picnics. In fact, whatever the season, Austurvöllur is the place to be. It’s used for celebrations on holidays, the city’s biggest Christmas tree is located there and due to its close proximity to the Parliament building, Austurvöllur has also a popular gathering place for political protests. At the center of it all stands a statue of Jón Sigurðsson, the renowned figure who led Iceland to independence.

5 | KOLAPORTIÐ Whether you want to sample dried fish and fermented shark, purchase a bag of Icelandic candy or browse through thrifted clothing, Kolaportið, an indoor flea market, open on the weekends between 11am-5pm, is your best bet. The atmosphere is unique and the old industrial building is usually filled with people hunting for books or antiques, grocery shopping at the food court, selling their old garments, buying music and DVD’s or digging through piles of stuff in search of hidden treasures. We recommend bringing cash, or visiting the ATM at one of the entrances, as the majority of stalls don’t accept cards.

The whole 28.000 square meters of Harpa stand at the edge of the Reykjavik Harbour. It houses Iceland‘s biggest concert hall, suitable for a broad range of concerts and cultural events, a conference centre with meeting facilities and in-house catering, as well as a couple of fine restaurants. Harpa also hosts promotions, plays, and public events. It‘s open to everyone, always, and you should definitely visit Harpa, whether it‘s to take in a show, buy souvenirs, go to a concert or have a lovely dinner in one of the fabulous restaurants. Harpa was designed by a Danish firm in co-operation with Ólafur Elíasson, an Icelandic artist, and opened to the public in 2011.

7 | THE OLD HARBOR It’s the first lasting harbour in Reykjavik, although it’s no longer the city’s busiest one. The most visited area is the eastern pier where you’ll find a community of shops, galleries, electric bike and scooter rentals and guided tour operators. You will also find numerous whale watching companies willing to take you out to sea on unforgettable excursions. The area is filled with excellent restaurants (sushi and other seafood, tapas, burgers, etc.) and cafés. The atmosphere at the old harbour is friendly, the air is fresh and salty and there’s plenty of interesting activities to check out.

EXPERIENCE

6 | HARPA

8 | THE SUN VOYAGER A beautiful sculpture of a Viking ship located by the ocean on a small peninsula by Sæbraut, close to the Reykjavík centre. The sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason symbolises the Viking past of the Icelanders and is an ode to the sun. It serves as reminder of our history and heritage when the first Viking settlers came sailing to Iceland.

9 | CITY HALL The Reykjavík City Hall is an impressive, modern building, opened in 1992, that sits right on the northern shore of lake Tjörnin. Not only does it house the offices of the mayor and other city officials, it‘s also open to visitors and offers stunning views of the water, bird life, nature and city surrounds. Inside the City Hall, you‘ll find a room-sized relief map of Iceland that took four men several years to make. There are also exhibition halls that regularly host a steady stream of new and exciting art exhibitions, book fairs, arts and crafts fairs and other events.

10 | LAUGARDALSLAUG Every country has traditions when it comes to leisure. Iceland’s big thing is swimming pools. Laugardalslaug is the city’s largest pool with extensive facilities, located in Laugardalur Valley. Its facilities include a 50m outdoor pool, outdoor children’s pool and paddling pool, two waterslides, numerous hot tubs, steam bath, gym and mini golf course. There really is no better place to be on a sunny day, or a cold one for that matter. Right outside you will find a hot dog stand where you can buy traditional Icelandic hot dogs.

Find these places on the centerfold map.

Check out our map on p. 42 for the locations of these sights.

Sólfarið looks its best when the sun is setting, at whatever time that may be. The unforgettable view of the sculpture with a backdrop of the ocean and mount Esjan is every photographer’s dream.

The concept of the restaurant is "c a s u a l f u n d i n i n g" a n d w e p r e p a r e w h a t w e w o u l d call a simple honest, "feel good", comfort food, where we take on the classics with a modern twist.

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ICELAND‘S SECRET TO HEALTHY LIVING

Legend has it that the Vikings introduced Skyr to Iceland when they settled in the country some 1.100 years ago. Travel back in time to any farm and Skyr would be on the table – essential nourishment for young and old. Generations past may not have been able to measure the nutritional content in the way we can now, but the life-expectancy of the average Icelander was proof enough that something good was going on. Icelanders have ever since loved the smooth texture of this incredibly healthy dairy product and today it plays a big role in the modern lifestyle

diet. Skyr is high in protein and a virtually fat-free dairy delight. Thick and creamy in consistency, it is also rich in calcium and other nutrients. Skyr can be found at almost every home and workplace. Enjoyed at breakfast, lunchtime, pretty much anytime, it has also become a healthy „fastfood“ for active people on the go. Delicious in smoothies or energy-boosting drinks, it even features on the dessert menus of many top restaurants, which are bringing a contemporary twist to this established favourite.

EXPERIENCE

THE WHAT’S ON SKYR EXPERIENCE

MS SKYR – PLAIN Skyr was originally only available as plain and was made at every farm in Iceland. Nowadays, there is a huge variety of flavours available but many still prefer the plain one.

KEA SKYR WITH VANILLA

MS SKYR.IS WITH BAKED APPLES Skyr producers have been experimenting with new flavours in skyr while still keeping it as nutritious as possible. One of the more recent additions is the baked apple flavour.

MS SKYR.IS WITH BLUEBERRIES This is a long-time favourite of the Skyr.is varieties. Blueberries are among the few summer fruits that grow in Iceland so eating Skyr with fresh blueberries has a long tradition in Iceland. The taste is very rich and full of blueberries.

For more information on skyr, visit skyr.is

Kea skyr comes from the northern part of Iceland and this is one of the most popular flavours available. The taste is full and creamy with zero fat. It’s mild and creamy flavour also makes it popular as a base for desserts.

AQUARACER STEEL & CERAMIC DIAMONDS Cara Delevingne challenges rules. Being free-minded is her motto. Like TAG Heuer, she defies conventions and never cracks under pressure.

EXPERIENCE WHAT TO DO IN ICELAND

IF YOU ONLY HAVE ONE DAY If you only have one day in Iceland, the first advice I will give you is to change your flight and stay for at least a week more. If that’s not an option, my next suggestion would be to use the time you have to the fullest, since Iceland is a unique destination. IF ICELANDIC GEOLOGY INTERESTS YOU

It’s no coincidence that The Golden Circle is the most popular day tour from Reykjavík. There are three stops on the way that just happen to be three of the most captivating destinations in Iceland, and as an added bonus, the tour doesn’t take up more than half of your day. The stops are Þingvellir, the national park where the Icelandic Parliament congregated since Viking times, Gullfoss, the aweinspiring waterfall which lends its name to the Golden Circle, and Geysir, an erupting hot spring, guaranteed to wow visitors.

Nobody does volcanoes like Iceland, there’s a reason it’s called the land of Ice and Fire. The Reykjavík Erupts! volcano hike takes you to a geothermally active area where the effects of the extreme heat underground are clearly visible on the surface. The colours of the earth are akin to a rainbow and there are bubbling cauldrons of mud everywhere. Lava Tube Caving tour, on the other hand, allows you to visit a cave that was formed during a volcanic eruption. The rock formations alone make this tour worth the trip.

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IF YOU JUST WANT TO SEE THE HIGHLIGHTS

EXPERIENCE

IF YOU WANT TO SEE A GLACIER Since you’re visiting ICE-land, you might want to check out some icy tours and it doesn’t get any icier than hiking on a glacier. Glacier hikes are relatively easy and the professional gear is provided so it should be accessible for most people. You get to walk on a glacier, along with guides that know everything there is to know about glaciers and Iceland in general. IF YOU’RE IN THE MOOD FOR A LITTLE LUXURY

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Even if you’re only in Iceland for a short time, that doesn’t mean you have to spend all your time on a bus. If a day of luxurious pampering is more appealing, look no further than the Blue Lagoon. The turquoise blue waters make for a divinely soothing and relaxing experience. It doesn’t hurt that you can book all sorts of massages and treatments and get drinks straight to the lagoon. The Lava restaurant at the Blue Lagoon is also first class.

IF YOU PREFER CITY STREETS TO HIKING TRAILS You don’t have to leave the city to experience Iceland. Not only does Reykjavík offer a variety of great museums, restaurants, cafés, and shops, it also has spectacular views of the mountains surrounding the city, right from the city centre. If you’re staying in the city and want to get the most out of your time, invest in the City Card. It gives you access to all the city’s museums for free, as well as access to the thermal pools of Reykjavík, the Reykjavík Family Park and Zoo in Laugardalur, and allows you to use the Icelandic Bus (Strætó) within the Capital Region. IF YOU READ MOBY DICK AND LIKED IT Marine life abounds in the ocean around Iceland. Of all the creatures that live in these waters, the most spectacular ones have to be the whales. If you’re interested in seeing these immense creatures for yourself, take a whale watching cruise. Even the smallest Icelandic whale you could spot is still the size of a full grown man, and the largest can reach

up to 30 metres in length! If you have a few hours to spare before or after the cruise (or if you get seasick and a cruise is out of the question), check out the Whales of Iceland exhibition for some extra information on these gentle giants. Whether you are going on tours or staying within city limits, you can be sure of one thing: you won’t have seen enough of what Iceland has to offer. The next time you’re in Iceland (and we’re pretty sure you’ll be back) stop by the What’s On office, or send us an email, and ask the staff to help you plan an unforgettable vacation.

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THE ICELANDIC

Although beer and ale have been brewed in Iceland for a long time, beer production was limited during the 20th century, as beer was illegal in Iceland until 1989! Icelanders have more than made up for lost time and the growth in beer production in recent years has been amazing. In just a few years, we‘ve seen many great breweries emerge, filled with ambition and ingenuity, and beer is now the most popular alcoholic beverage in Iceland. It’s no wonder, as Icelandic beer is delicious, in no small part thanks to the Icelandic water; renowned for its purity and quality.

VÍKING CLASSIC Víking Classic is a Vienna style beer with golden amber colour and taste of roasted malt. It has a good body and medium bitterness with balancing sweetness and a hint of caramel. The name might seem a bit presumptuous as this classic has only been in production for a few years, but it’s in fact named after the Danish “Classic” style of beer. Víking Classic is available in draught, bottles and cans and is part of the Víking beer family which is the most popular beer brand in Iceland.

EINSTÖK WHITE ALE A clean and crisp start with a smooth mouth feel thanks to the oats. Citrus and spice round out a refreshing finish. Einstök beer is brewed up north, just 60 miles south of the Arctic Circle. You wouldn’t know it when you taste this summery, citrusy white ale. It has the complex flavours of a classic witbier, all brewed with pure Icelandic water for a cool smoothness that is deliciously refreshing. Don’t forget to ask for a slice of orange!

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KALDI

Kaldi is a very mild and comfortable pilsner, dry, fresh, slightly bitter, with notes of roasted barley and hops, and has 5% ABV. You might detect a hint of sweetness as well. The brewery on Árskógssandur, makers of Kaldi beer, was the first microbrewery that opened in Iceland, back in 2006. The regular Kaldi is a pure pilsner, with all the ingredients, except the Icelandic water, coming from the Czech Republic. Even their brew-master is Czech! Following its success, the brewery opened Kaldi bar in the centre of Reykjavík, where all the varieties of Kaldi beer are available. Kaldi bar is, of course, the best place to get Kaldi, but it’s available in other bars as well, and in bottles at the liquor stores.

KALDI DARK A dark pilsner, it‘s similar to the regular Kaldi, but the main difference is the use of burnt malt, which provides the beautiful, distinctive dark colour and deepens the flavour. Most Icelanders are used to drinking light lagers and are even a bit wary of dark beers, at least until they taste Kaldi Dark. As mentioned – the Kaldi beers are brewed by Czech traditions, dated from 1842. Kaldi Dark is brewed using 3 different types of Czech hops. Kaldi Dark is unpasteurized with no added sugar or preservatives. You can get Kaldi Dark in all liquor stores as well as some bars, but the best place to get it is of course the Kaldi bar in the centre of Reykjavík.

These are our favourites, don’t leave Reykjavík without stopping by a pub or a bar and tasting at least one (or all) of them!

BRÍÓ Brío uses German hops, giving the beer a very distinctive taste and a sweet aroma. Along with the hops, it uses Pilsen malt and under-fermented yeast. Bríó is the first beer produced by Borg Brugghús, a brewery that now produces several popular beers all year round along with seasonal beers for summer, Christmas and Easter. Bríó is a pilsner, a style of beer named after the city of Pilsen in the Czech Republic. This style of brewing first emerged in the middle of the 19th century and became so popular that the majority of beer drunk today is a relative of the original pilsner. Brío was originally brewed as the house beer for Ölstofan but due to its popularity, it’s now available in liquor stores as well as most bars in town.

EXPERIENCE

BEER EXPERIENCE

ÚLFUR The aroma is of fresh citrus fruits, especially grapefruit, which can also be found in the flavour, along with a strong bitterness that makes you crave another sip. Úlfur was the first Icelandic IPA (India Pale Ale) on the market. It’s in the same calibre as the best produced on the West Coast of the Unites States and surprised many Icelanders with its distinct flavour and aroma. Only American hops are used in the beer and they are added when boiled and after fermentation; a so called “dry hopping” technique. Icelanders took to the beer immediately and it helped clear the way for smaller breweries to try new things.

VÍKING STOUT This is one of the first stouts made in Iceland. Only brewed from the finest ingredients, Víking stout is unfiltered and has a distinctly smoky aftertaste. It’s recently had its look revamped along with the other Víking craft beers. The labels now carry graphic designs that interpret events and traditions from the Viking age. The pitch black stout’s label fittingly evokes images of the ravens of Flóki, the Viking traveller who named Iceland.

PILS ORGANIC Víking Pils Organic has a distinctive floral hoppiness, medium bitterness and a nice balance. Pils Organic took the Bavarian production tradition head on and emerged unquestionably victorious. A member of the same Viking inspired line of beers as the Víking Stout, Pils Organic is decorated with a pattern based on the snake’s heads that used to adorn the ships of the Vikings. Contrary to popular belief, these weren’t meant to intimidate opponents in battles on sea, but rather to frighten sea monsters.

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Viking stout is pitch black, reminiscent of cocoa and coffee with a smoothly roasted aftertaste.

EXPERIENCE Find more articles like this at whatson.is/ 22

>> Iceland Explained!

Icelanders tend to think that the world revolves around their tiny island, north of almost everything, and get perplexed when people from larger, more heavily populated countries seem to have little to no knowledge of what goes on here. (What do you mean, you’ve never heard of a lopapeysa? How dare you insult the majestic Icelandic horse by calling it a pony!) Luckily, I’m here to help and explain to you the whats, whys and hows of Icelandic culture.

ICELAND EXPLAINED

ICELANDIC INDEPENDENCE

>> What happened there? As you might know, Iceland started out as an independent country in the 9th century. The stories even imply that people were settling in Iceland to escape from the oppressive kings that were uniting the Scandinavian countries under their leadership. Until the 13th century, all decisions were made by the Alþingi, a parliamentary institution where powerful men had a vote, but all independent men could attend. This period has been highly romanticised since we gave up our independence in 1262 and didn’t get it back until the middle of the 20th century. >> Why did you renounce your independence in the first place? It seemed like a good idea at the time. The independent community of the time sounds almost utopian, until you realise that they had no way to enforce the laws or the sentences they issued except the revenge of the victim. If he or she was for some reason (like being dead, or a woman, for example) unable to seek revenge for themselves, the victim’s family was also obligated to seek revenge lest they forsake all honour. This worked for a while but this type of society created the conditions for families and clans to rise to power, ultimately resulting in a mafia-wars type of situation. Come the 13th century, the clans had started squabbling among themselves and there was nobody to keep them in line because they didn’t have a king. The rest of the nation solved this little problem by just getting themselves one, namely the Norwegian one.

>> How did you get it back? That took us a while. We submitted to the Norwegian king in 1262 but due to a complicated system of royal marriages and a brief union of all the Scandinavian countries, Iceland ended up as a colony of Denmark. During the 19th century, Iceland put up the most peaceful, wordy battle for independence you can imagine, mostly made up of emotional poetry romanticising the past. The biggest moment of the Icelandic fight for freedom happened during a meeting in 1851, when Jón Sigurðson, the biggest hero of Icelandic independence, stood up during a meeting and protested. We finally got our chance in 1944. It was during the height of World War II and Denmark was occupied by Germany and Iceland by Britain. Iceland sent the king of Denmark a politely worded letter declaring independence. The reaction of the Danish ruler? According to stories, his feelings were a little hurt.

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The 1783-4 eruption of Laki was history’s biggest volcanic eruption. When it erupted, the ash darkened the sky over all of Europe for years. The ash’s toxicity caused widespread crop failures and the resulting famine all over Europe was almost certainly one of the causes of the French revolution in 1789, ultimately resulting in the first modern democracy as we know it.

NOT JUST ONE, BUT TWO OF THE BIGGEST ERUPTIONS IN THE RECORDED HISTORY OF THE WORLD, OCCURRED IN ICELAND! Not only was Laki the biggest eruption in recorded history, measured by volume of lava, but Iceland was also the site of the second biggest emission in recorded history, the 2014 eruption of Bárðarbunga. In just 6 months, Bárðarbunga produced enough lava to cover the island of Manhattan – 85km2. It still isn‘t close to matching Laki. That eruption produced 370 km2 of lava, the size of the Gaza strip, in only 50 days!

All photos provided by the Volcano House

For more information on Icelandic volcanoes, check out www.volcanohouse.is

AN ICELANDIC VOLCANO IS THE REASON FOR DEMOCRACY AS WE KNOW IT

EXPERIENCE

5 FACTS YOU (PROBABLY) DIDN’T KNOW ABOUT ICELANDIC VOLCANOES

EXPERIENCE For more information on Icelandic volcanoes, check out www.volcanohouse.is 26

1/3 OF ALL THE EARTH’S FRESH LAVA ORIGINATED IN ICELAND! When you’re discussing volcanoes, all concepts that have something to do with time get a bit skewed. For instance, fresh lava means lava emissions on earth since the year 1500. The reason for this impressive amount of liquid rock spewing to the surface is because not only does Iceland sit on a crack between two tectonic plates, it’s also on top of a geologic hotspot. Even so, for such a small island, that’s a pretty impressive amount of lava.

ICELAND HAS A VOLCANIC ERUPTION EVERY 4-5 YEARS! This isn’t surprising considering the island has somewhere around 150-200 volcanoes, split into different volcanic systems. About 30 different systems are still considered “active” in Iceland, and 13 of them have erupted since the Viking Settlement in 874. Not all the eruptions are on the

WANT TO GET UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH THE VOLCANOES OF ICELAND? For more information on volcanoes and geothermal activity in Iceland, go visit the Volcano House by the old harbour. Its attractions include a mineral exhibition and an hour-long documentary on volcanoes, which is shown every hour, on the hour. As an added bonus, there’s also a What’s On desk over there, in case you need any information.

same scale as the Eyjafjallajökull eruption though; some are small enough to be considered tourist attractions and some happen underneath glaciers and never even see the light of day.

ICELAND HAS THE ONLY ISLAND SCIENTISTS HAVE BEEN ABLE TO OBSERVE AND DOCUMENT FROM THE MOMENT OF ITS CREATION: SURTSEY Surtsey was formed by a volcanic eruption at the bottom of the ocean and emerged from the water on November 14, 1963. It was immediately granted protection by law and no one was allowed to set foot on the island. To this day only scientists are allowed to go there, and even they have to get special permission. This means that we have been able to monitor how life settles on a brand-new land from the beginning, and the information gained has been invaluable to scientists.

Fish • Lamb • Whale • Icelandic cuisine with a twist Icelandic music and nightlife Mix with the locals . .and all the Icelandic beers in one awsome place!

INGÓLFSSTRÆTI 1A

1 0 1 R E Y K J AV Í K

www.islenskibarinn.is postur@islenskibarinn.is sími: 517 6767

Sundays are live jazz nights at Bryggjan Brugghús,

Bryggjan is an Iceland’s first Microbrewery &, Bistro Bar situated on Reykjavik harbour, that

You can expect some jazz standards, warm spirits and very good beer! ENTRANCE IS FREE

emphasizes fresh ingredients and various styles of high-quality beer, pumped directly from the brewery itself. Bryggjan can accommodate up to 280 guests and is open from 11.00 to 01.00, every day of the week. k Fis

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REYKJAVÍK HARBOUR

B R Y G G J A N B R U G G H Ú S * G R A N D A G A R Ð I 8 1 0 1 R E Y K J AV Í K * 0 0 3 5 4 4 5 6 4 0 4 0 * W W W. B R Y G G J A N B R U G G H U S . I S

Pre-booking is required. Book online at bluelagoon.com

PRE-BOOKING IS REQUIRED Book online at bluelagoon.com

WELCOME! Icelandic and international cooking, where cooking is the name of the game!

Experts' choice + Best rated Trip Expert Certificate of Excellence Trip advisor 2015, 2013 & 2012 Top 10 world’s revolving restaurants English CNTV 12 places to see before you die Modern Times World’s top revolving restaurants Travel+Leisure 5 best: Tables at the top Independent Online Pure Magic!! Mellosusan, Trip Advisor Definitely worth it! Amos F, Trip Advisor If you want to feel like royalty for a night, hit Perlan Sharlene Chiu

The Pearl Restaurant · Tel. (+354) 562 0200 · www.perlan.is · perlan@perlan.is

The sagas might be several centuries old and originate in a society with completely different values to our own, but the stories they tell are universal and timeless. Just like modern literature, they deal with love, loss, honour, adventure and everything in between. If you want to start reading the sagas but you’re just not sure where to begin, here’s our guide to reading the sagas. Before you start reading, you should know that…

THE NARRATIVE IS IMPERSONAL The sagas are an exercise in subtlety when it comes to feelings and emotions. Instead of mentioning emotions like anger or embarrassment, the narrator might just mention silence and blushed cheeks. While reading, you have to pay close attention to descriptions and you really can’t skip chapters, because… EVERY WORD COUNTS When reading the sagas, a lot of the first chapters might seem superfluous. The thing is, if they were, they wouldn’t have been written down. The manuscripts were made of calfskin and were very expensive. Everything they could skip, they did. The early setup may feel unimportant at first but it’s all a part of the chain of events that eventually set the stage for the plot of the saga to progress. VALUES WERE DIFFERENT Honour was the basis of society in those days. In a country without law enforcement, people lived highly moral (according to their values) lives or faced the consequences. Family was everything and if someone wronged a cousin of yours, you were not only expected, but required to avenge him, either by money or blood. Last, but not least, there was also a strong belief in fatalism, dreams in the sagas are often prophetic and wise men could see the future.

Find more articles like this at whatson.is/music/

The Sagas of the Icelanders, written in the 12th and 13th century and telling the stories of the early settlers of Iceland from the 10th century, are an amazing treasure trove of historical knowledge about the early years of settlement in Iceland. Better yet, they’re also impressive examples of literary excellence that still hold their own when it comes to enthralling storytelling.

EXPERIENCE

A GUIDE TO READING THE SAGAS OF THE ICELANDERS

EXPERIENCE Find more articles like this at whatson.is/ 32

If you like romance novels and soap operas, start with Laxdæla Saga Laxdæla is the thrilling story of bonds of friendship torn asunder for the love of a woman. The love triangle of the formerly inseparable friends Kjartan and Bolli and the beautiful and clever Guðrún has far-reaching consequences in this heartwrenching story of honour, destiny, love and betrayal. Will Guðrún follow her heart or her pride? Are they all mere pawns of fate? Will her efforts to overturn destiny prove fruitful? … or fatal!? If you're a fan of legal dramas and the Greek tragedies, start with Brennu-Njáls saga Njála, as it is affectionately known, is the most revered of all the sagas in Iceland and its main character, Gunnar of Hlíðarendi is probably the most idealised hero in all Icelandic literature. Familial obligations, honour and, most importantly, love, throw him, his best friend Njáll and everyone they hold dear into a whirlwind of theft, lawsuits, murder and punishments. His fate is marked from the moment he lays eyes on the woman he loves and not even Njáll’s sage advice can save him. As an added bonus, Gunnar’s wife, Hallgerður, also happens to be arguably the best female character in all medieval literature.

If you’re into fantasy, start with Völsunga Saga Völsunga saga has it all, dragons, sleeping beauties, magical swords, revenge and a dash of incest. It’s basically Game of Thrones for the 13th century! It’s the story of the Völsungs, a dynasty of kings and heroes. The best-known story from the saga is the story of Sigurður, the slayer of the dragon Fáfnir. After he kills the dragon, he eats his heart because magical birds told him to do it. What more do you need to know? If you like action movies and adventure stories, start with Egil’s saga Egil’s saga tells the story of the fascinating antihero Egill Skallagrímsson and C his adventurous travels all M over the north of Europe. A fierce fighter and clever Y poet with severe anger CM management issues, Egil’s saga weaves the stories of MY the first time he killed a man (at the tender age of CY 7), his impending beheading which he escapes CMY with the aid of some seriously great poetry, and a drunken feast turned massacre (where our K hero at one point cuts off a man’s head before vomiting down his neck), to name a few.

ALL THE SAGAS available in English in bookstores in Iceland. If you’re interested in the sagas and want to know more, head to the Settlement Exhibition where some of the original manuscripts to the centuries old sagas are on display. If you’re looking for some lighter entertainment, get some tickets to Icelandic Sagas – Greatest hits at Harpa. The comedy show takes on all the Icelandic sagas in 75 minutes. Additionally, if you’re travelling outside the city limits, we recommend seeking out the areas where the sagas are set. Borgarnes and Hvolsvöllur, for example, each have a museum dedicated to the Sagas of the area, Egil’s saga and Njáls saga, respectively.

EXPERIENCE

THE

For more information, check out www.whatson.is/northern-lights/

NORTHERN LIGHTS

ARE BACK!

The new season may be bringing the end of the bright summer nights, but never fear, The Northern Lights are here! The Aurora have been absent all summer long, as their faint light is no match for the midnight sun, but as the autumn equinox draws nearer, it’s now getting dark enough in the evenings that the Northern Lights are able to strut their stuff.

Seeing the lights is a magical experience and we recommend seeking them out while you’re in Iceland. However, there are a few things every Northern Lights hunter should keep in mind. The Northern Lights aren’t a reliable attraction and seeing them can be a matter of being in the right spot at the right time. It’s not all down to luck, however, as there are a few things you can do to maximise your chances of seeing the ethereal lights.

Different ways to see the Northern Lights:

GOING BY COACH:

GOING BY BOAT:

Cheap and effective – A Northern Lights tour by bus is a good way to see the lights if you’re not too concerned about a lot of people and simply travelling by bus. Perhaps not the best time if you don’t see anything – but it’s the cheapest option to see the lights, and gets the job done!

A great experience regardless of lights – Going by boat and seeing the city from the sea at night, is in itself a great experience. The boat ride is a very good choice for those that want to ensure they get something out of their tour – even if no lights are found.

The city lights block the Northern Lights!

| MAKE SURE IT’S DARK

Daylight and Northern Lights don’t go hand in hand!

| MAKE SURE THE SKY IS CLEAR

The Northern Lights appear way above the clouds!

| GIVE IT TIME AND BE PATIENT!

EXPERIENCE

TO THE NOP 8 TIPS FOR RTHERN LIGHTS! 1 | GET OUT OF TOWN

The Northern Lights don’t come out by order – be patient and you might get lucky!

| SIGHTINGS CAN NEVER BE GUARANTEED

| WEAR SOMETHING WARM

It can get seriously cold, especially when the sky is clear and you’re waiting for a long time.

| KNOW YOUR CAMERA!

Taking photos with a flash won’t work. Ever. A tripod and long exposure are your friends!

| ENJOY IT!

Lie down on the ground. Look up. Enjoy!

GOING BY SUPER-JEEP:

For more information, check out www.whatson.is or stop by the What’s On information office

Exclusive and thrilling – Going in a specially modified super-jeep on a hunt for the lights is a thrilling experience that’s fun and exciting. Sights can of course never be guaranteed, but the off-road action of the super jeep make for a great adventure and the lights are just an added bonus.

For more information, check out www.whatson.is/northern-lights/

So we’d recommend a tour that includes some great activity as well as Northern Lights hunt – so you won’t feel disappointed!

EXPERIENCE

NORTHERN LIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY DOs AND DON'Ts DO have a relatively good camera with you that allows for easy and quick change of settings.

For more information, check out www.whatson.is/northern-lights/

DON’T try to use the camera on your phone. It won’t work.

DO have your ISO set to at least 800 and your aperture as low as it goes. DON’T forget your tripod! However little you think you move while waiting for your camera to take your picture, believe me, you always move a little and it’s enough to make your photos blurry. DO keep your shutter speed anywhere between 5 seconds to 30 seconds, although the optimal would be between 5-20 (30 is for very faint lights, basically). DON’T go by boat! If you’re intent on getting photos, at least. The movement of the boat makes it impossible. DO consider using continuous shooting so that while shooting the lights you don’t have to keep staring at them through your camera DON’T focus solely on your photographs and forget to be in the moment. You don’t see the Northern Lights every day! If you need any more information, check out www.whatson.is or stop by the What’s On information office at Laugavegur 5 and Tryggvagata 11..

A RARE, ONCE-INA-LIFETIME OPPORTUNITY Around, on and deep within the awesome Langjökull ice gap glacier. Into the Glacier offers various tours to the World's largest ice tunnel. The ice tunnel and caves are located high on Iceland’s second largest glacier, Langjökull. Daily departures from Klaki base camp, Húsafell center and from Reykjavik. You can choose from various tours and book online at www.intotheglacier.is Tel: +354 578-2550

DESIGNED & TESTED IN ICELAND

W W W. C I N T A M A N I . I S BANKASTRÆTI 7 | AUSTURHRAUN 3 | SMÁRALIND | KRINGLAN | AKUREYRI

HALLDÓR LAXNESS >> What did he do? He’s the best-known Icelandic writer of the 20th century, the author of such books as Independent People, Iceland’s Bell and World Light. He is best known for his social realism novels and was controversial in Iceland when he was a young author, not only because of his incendiary writings and his refusal to follow normal rules of spelling but also because of his left-leaning politics.

>> Why is he important? According to the Nobel prize committee of 1955, “his vivid epic power renewed the great narrative art of Iceland”. Halldór is the only Icelander in history to receive the Nobel prize (although Gunnar Gunnarsson reportedly also came close). Awards aside, his work has influenced Icelandic culture in a fundamental way and many of his characters are household names in Iceland.

WHAT’S ON

ICELAND EXPLAINED

>> How can I read his work? Most of his novels are available in translations. His most famous novel is Independent people, the saga of a woefully proud Icelandic farmer and his family, although for beginners, I recommend The Fish Can Sing, a coming-of-age story set in early 20th century Reykjavík.

Find more info about Iceland on www.whatson.is 39

WHAT’S ON

RÉTTIR

THE ART OF SHEEP ROUNDING

When driving around Iceland, every now and then, you’ll pass strange constructs by the side of the road. If you don’t know what they are, they look like a fence gone horribly wrong or a really bad maze. In fact, what you’re seeing is a rétt and despite its looks, it does have a purpose.

Find more articles like this at whatson.is/

IF IT AIN’T BROKE…

Sheep farming is in many ways done in the same way it has been for the past centuries. In the summer, Icelandic sheep are sent to the mountains to graze while the farmer uses the meadows to grow hay for the winter. The sheep spend a summer grazing on mountain flora underneath the midnight sun until September rolls around, and that’s where the réttir come in. RECOGNISING YOUR SHEEP In the autumn, the farmers head to the mountains on foot or horseback, gather the sheep and bring them down to the rétt. The problem now is that

all the farmers’ sheep are mixed in together with seemingly no way to know which sheep belongs to which farmer. But if you’ve been paying attention, you’ll know that sheep farming has been around for centuries without changing a whole lot so the farmers have figured out a solution a long, long time ago. Every sheep’s ear is marked before they head to the mountain and each farmer has a specific mark so he only brings back his own sheep. THE HIGH-TECH SOLUTION? A RÉTT A rétt is set up like a wagon wheel on the ground, with a circular fence in the middle, more fences leading out from the circle (the spokes) and another circular fence closing it all off. The spokes and outer circle form several little sheep pens with one big one in the middle. To sort the sheep, all the sheep are put in the large space in the middle and then the fun begins. The farmers and their helpers grab each sheep, check their ears for the right mark and when they find them, drag them to the correct pen. SHEEP ROUND-UP = LOTS OF FUN Réttir day comes only once a year and all the people in the area gather to help separate the sheep so it’s usually a merry day. In fact, some years ago, réttir were known for public drunkenness, as it was often one of the few occasions people met in a crowd. Today, this is usually channelled into the Réttir dance, held in the evening after all the sheep have found their rightful home.

If you’re interested in joining the fun, stop by the What's Oninformation office or send us an e-mail whatson@whatson.is

WHATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ON LOCATIONS

Check out the article The Reykjavik Sight Experience on pages 11-12 for more information about the places numbered here.

REYKJAVIK CITY MAP

10 10 10 1010

WHAT’S ON

THE REYKJAVÍK MUSEUM WALK Reykjavík’s history reaches back for more than a thousand years and the city is rich with culture. This heritage can be experienced in the museums scattered throughout the city. To make life easier for you, here is a proposed Museum Walk that covers the best ones in downtown Reykjavik, all within a walking distance. 1

VOLCANO HOUSE

The museum gives visitors an idea of the life in Iceland, where volcanoes and earthquakes are a constant threat. Icelandic n at u re i s i n a st ate o f constant flux, earthquakes occur daily somewhere in Iceland, and volcanic eruptions are always a possibility. Volcano House lets you experience the world of Icelanders by coming as close as possible to experiencing an eruption or earthquake for yourself. They also have a Volcano Show, which consists of two back-to-back documentaries on historical volcanic eruptions.

REYKJAVÍK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY

The museum’s main objective is to present both historical and contemporary photography in an artistic, social and cultural context, as well as nurture public and scholarly interest in photography and its culture. The collection’s themes are diverse, you can find family photographs, photos from portrait studios, industrial- and advertising photographs, press photography, landscape photographs and more.

Find more articles like this at whatson.is/

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND

The nation’s most precious treasures are kept and displayed at The National Museum of Iceland. The museum was established on the 24th of February in 1863 and it’s aim is to increase and relay knowledge of Icelandic cultural heritage from the country’s settlement until now. In the museum you will find a permanent exhibition of objects that provide insight into Icelandic history and culture as well as temporary exhibitions highlighting specific eras or aspects of the Icelandic cultural heritage.

THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF ICELAND

The principal art museum of Iceland, established in 1884. Its art collection consists mainly of 19th and 20th century art works. In its possession are many of the keystones of Icelandic art history, as well as a growing collection of works from other countries. The National Gallery’s main role is to collect, preserve, research and exhibit Icelandic art and offer education about it. There is also a considerable emphasis laid on showing Icelandic art in context with international art.

REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM

Hafnarhús serves as the m u s e u m ’s i n s t i t u t e o f contemporary art, where new developments in art are explored through d i ve r s e ex h i b i t i o n s o f Icelandic and international artists. An exhibition of paintings by well-known pop artist Erró is a permanent feature. Don’t forget to stop by the Hafnarhús shop for postcards, art posters and books published by the museum.

THE SETTLEMENT EXHIBITION

Archaeological remains were excavated in Aðalstræti in 2001, which turned out to be the oldest relics of human habitation in Reykjavík.The relics are now preserved at their original location and are the focal point of the Settlement Exhibition. The construction of Viking Age buildings is explained using multimedia technology and computer technology is used to give an impression of what life was like in the hall. This one is open late, until 8 pm.

The Wonders of the Volcanoes Volcano House features two documentaries that focus on the most famous eruptions of Iceland, including Vestmannaeyjar in 1973 and Eyjafjallajökull in 2010, as well as talking about the causes and effects of Icelandic volcanology in general. The Volcano House includes a FREE “hands on” geology exhibition featuring many different mineral samples, such as lava from the 2014 eruption of Bárðabunga and ash from the eruption of Eyjafjallajökull. Reviews from tripadvisor “Must-go when touring the museums of Reykjavik”

- Nikeflies, Connecticut, November 22, 2015

“A must stop for geology buffs!” - sfrarymt, Montana, October 3, 2015

“Volcano eruptions are a way of life for Iceland”

- FastEd1972, Texas, November 21, 2015

“Highlight of our time in Reykjavik!” - alexa011, Wisconsin, October 2, 2015

VOLCANO HOUSE

Volcano Cinema and Geological Exhibition in Downtown Reykjavik, next to the Old Harbour. Open Every Day from 10:00-21:00 / Show time every hour, on the hour. Tryggvagata 11, 101 Reykjavík | (+354) 555 1900 | www.volcanohouse.is

EVENT CALENDAR Read more about these exhibitions at whatson.is/ec 46

NOTABLE FESTIVITIES & RECURRING EVENTS EVENTS FROM WHATSON.IS/EC REYKJAVÍKURDÆTUR RELEASE CONCERT NASA NIGHTCLUB Sep 3rd Reykjavíkurdætur is an Icelandic women’s rap group known for daring lyrics about important topics. ICELANDIC TATTOO EXPO @ RADISSON BLU SAGA Sep 2-4th A gathering with great tattoo artists from all over the world showing off their best skills. ARI SCHAFFIR STAND UP COMEDIAN @ HARPA Sep 7th Ari Shaffir grew up orthodox Jewish, spent 2 years in a yeshiva in Israel, and came back to America to lose his religion and become a comic. PASCAL PINON RELEASE CONCERT @ MENGI Sep 10th A musical group of two sisters performing lo-fi, minimalistic music with beautiful vocals and guitar. RUSSIAN FILM DAYS @ BÍÓ PARADÍS Middle of Sep A selection of award-winning Russian films mixed with current Russian cinema. English subtitles on all the films.

“ICETRALIA” STAND UP COMEDY IN ENGLISH CAFÉ RÓSENBERG Sep 21st Hugleikur Dagsson (IS) & Jonathan Duffy (AUS) bring you everything you want in a comedy show. Observations, obscenities and music. CONCERT WITH VIOLINISTS AISHA ORAZBAYEVA AND UNA SVEINBJARNARDÓTTIR. @ MENGI Sep 23rd Aisha Orazbayeva presents her latest album Telemann Fantasias performed using modern violin techniques alongside works by Salvatore Sciarrino and Luigi Nono. KIKAGAKU MOYO @ KEX HOSTEL Sep 26th A psychedelic quartet from Tokyo is playing their debut performance in Iceland. NORDIC MUSIC DAYS @ HARPA Sep 29th - Oct 1st Excellent contemporary music performances by Nordic composers performed by ensembles and soloists from the Nordic region. RIFF - REYKJAVÍK INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL @ BÍÓ PARADÍS Sep 29th - Oct 10th The festival shows a wide range of dramas and nonfiction films from over 40 countries.

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND EVEN MORE EVENTS, VISIT US ONLINE AT WHATSON.IS/EC SEND US YOUR EVENTS AT WHATSON.IS/EC/ADD OR EVENTS@WHATSON.IS

THE STEAK HOUSE

Steikhúsið simply means „The Steak House” and that underlines our goal, to focus solely on steaks. The Steak house is in the middle of Reykjavík, opposite the old harbor which has recently formed into a lively neighborhood of restaurants, cafes and artisan stores and work shops. When you wisit us, remember to try our “28 days” tendered meat. The heart of the place is a coal oven from Mibrasa, Spain. It is only a blacksmith and metal works in years gone by. THE KITCHEN IS OPEN FROM 17:00 TILL LATE — VISIT WWW.STEAK.IS

Booking: +354 561 1111 & steik@steik.is

XMAS EXPERIENCE

With so much to see and do, why not rent a car with audio guided day tour GPS system?

Perfect day tours for the independent traveller My Way is your own audio day tour consisting of a suitable car for you and your friends together with an audio guide programmed into the GPS system. Sold in cooperation with Avis and Budget car rentals.

My Way audio guided daytours exsamples: Reykjanes Peninsula

Reykjavík – Gardskagi, Hafnir, Blue Lagoon, Kleifarvatn – Hafnarfjördur Volcanic wonders and some of our country’s most unforgettable sights. The Reykjanes peninsula tour offers an extreme variety of landscapes, lava fields and geothermal activity,

MIN: 4HRS

APX: 180KM

Golden Circle

Reykjavík – Gullfoss & Geysir Iceland’s most popular day tour, The Golden Circle, a route which encompasses many of Iceland’s most famous landmarks. This tour includes some of the best known historical sites and natural phenomena in Iceland.

MIN: 5HRS APX: 250KM

Only available from: &

To book your own day tour • Contact Avis, tel. 591 4000 or Budget, tel. 562 6060. • Ask the hotel or next information centre to book it for you. • Visit the My Way website mywayiniceland.is

South Shore

Reykjavík – South Shore to Vík – Reykjavík You drive along the south coast of Iceland passing by glaciers and volcanoes, black sand coastline and moss-covered lava fields as far as the charming village Vík í Mýrdal.

MIN: 8HRS

APX: 400KM

WONDERS OF VOLCANOES The Volcano House includes a FREE “hands on” geology exhibition featuring many different mineral samples, such as lava from the 2014 eruption of Bárðabunga and ash from the 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajökull. A documentary in English, with Emmy-nominated footage, is screened every hour, on the hour, from 10am to 9pm. It focuses on some of the most famous eruptions of Iceland, as well as talking about the causes and effects of Icelandic volcanology in general. The show is also available in different languages by pre-arrangement »» The Volcano House is fun and educational for people of all ages, and kids are especially welcome. (Free for 0-12) »» A fantastic place to start your stay in Iceland, so you know what you’re looking at as you travel around (or at the end of your visit, to make sense of everything you’ve seen).

WONDERS OF VOLCANOES

EVENT CALENDAR

VOLCANO HOUSE

»» The Volcano House is a great stop on your Museum Day. After standing and reading for hours, it’s nice to sit down and watch a movie.

For more information see www.volcanohouse.is.

SIGURJÓN ÓLAFSSON MUSEUM FEMALE IDOLS To mark the centennial of women in Iceland winning the right to vote, Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum has created an exhibition of classical portrait sculptures of women produced by Ólafsson. Along with those works, other works by the artist are on display.

FEMALE IDOLS

The works are carved in stone and wood and they focus on the female image in Ólafsson's art – Das Ewig-Weibliche – taking on the image of the goddess.

ASÍ ART GALLERY ISLANDS ON HEAVEN AND EARTH From September 10th. Eyjólfur Einarsson exhibits paintings and sculptures.

ÞÓRA SIGURÐARDÓTTIR From September 10th. Þóra Sigurðardóttir´s (b.1954, Akureyri) art practice applies drawing, and often other mediums, as a way to expand patterned repetition, inversion and transformation through the nature of material, process and environment. Working in twoand three-dimensional forms she places emphasis on navigating layered surfaces and structures.

Find more events at whatson.is

»» Volcano House is a great late-night activity (last show at 21:00), a good replacement if your tour is cancelled, or if the weather is bad (it’s always nice and warm inside). Drop by any time!

EVENT CALENDAR

MUSEUM OF DESIGN AND APPLIED ART KEEPERS Museum collections are collections made up by a number of collected objects and sources that have some meaning to the museum But how are the objects collected? What reasons lie behind certain objects being collected and where do the

boundaries lie when collecting objects for a collection? The exhibition KEEPERS focuses on the museums’s collection. It will display the diversity that defines the collection while highlighting the fact that the museum’s collection is almost entirely composed of gifts. The title refers both to the objects themselves, the ones worth keeping, as well as the people who preserved them, kept them and eventually so generously gave them to the museum for safekeeping.

REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM ÁSMUNDARSAFN DISRUPTION It often falls to artists to challenge old and stagnant attitudes. Ásmundur Sveinsson (1893-1982) spoke of trying to make people “aware that they are not just mindless beasts.” According to Elín Hansdóttir

Read more about these exhibitions at whatson.is/museums

DISRUPTION

KEEPERS

KJARVAL

(b. 1980), art should “cut the ground from beneath your feet and make you re-evaluate your rigid ideas.” In Disruption, Elín takes on Ásmundur's artworks, searching for new viewpoints. Elín and Ásmundur work with perspective in different ways, he uses his material to capture the form, while she redefines the space. The contrast between Elín's recent work and Ásmundur's heritage opens up a new world for the viewer. Their generations are wildly incompatible, which creates interesting tension, although they also have some powerful attributes in common.

REYKJAVÍK ART MUSEUM – KJARVALSSTAÐIR MIND AND THE UNIVERSE Kjarvalsstaðir is a space where the art of Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval, in whose honour it is named, has been presented in diverse ways since it opened in 1973. In that time extensive research has been carried out on his art and his important place in Icelandic art history. Many of Kjarval’s works are familiar, but opportunities are welcome to renew the acquaintance from different perspectives, and in the context of time passing. Attitudes to art evolve, and Kjarval’s subjects constantly acquire new significance in the context of the subjects of each time – for example his interpretation of Icelandic nature, and the sensitivity to nature conveyed by his works. Observers will respond differently to Kjarval’s interpretation of Icelandic nature, reflecting individual values. Does the value lie in beauty for its own sake, in the hidden life within it, in our potential for utilisation of nature, or in the transience many people foresee, due to climate change? Each person sees a work in his/her own way, according to the Zeitgeist and personal perspective.

rmal Poo Reykjaviks' The ls

A source of health Therm al swi m m ing pools

Hot t ubs and jacuzz i

Saunas, steambat hs and showers

Se ve n loc at i on s ope n ea rly un t i l lat e

Thermal pools a and nd b baths in Reykjavi Reykjavik k ar are re a source of hea health, alth, relaxation and pureness. All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot tubs with temperatures ranging from 37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F)

Tel: +354 411 5000 www.spacity.is

THE MAKING OF ERRÓ 1955-1964 An exploration of the development of the artist during the years 1955- 1964, a complex and spectacular period, both in his art and in European art history, when he was the first artist to create “collage paintings.” The exhibition illustrates in broad terms how Erró gradually moved away from expressionism and started to make collages, which he then reproduced in paint on canvas. At that time he also made various visual experiments with painting, text-collages, assemblages and happenings. The works were made against a background of the colourful culture and art world of Paris, and later New York, where he became familiar with the consumer/media society of the United States, and its stimulating art world.

MAKING OF ERRÓ

EVENT CALENDAR

REYKJAVIK ART MUSEUM – HAFNARHÚS

KINGDOM – FLORA, FAUNA, FABLE How is the relation of contemporary art to nature? The contemporary artists‘ attitude to nature is to observe it in an objective manner, or use it as a mirror for the self and society. In both cases the interpretations can be fresh and ingenious and encourage creative thinking while at the same time provoking questions about man's position towards his environment.

ARNFINNUR AMAZEEN: SUBSELVES MEAN WELL Arnfinnur Amazeen (b. 1977) is the third artist to exhibit in Gallery D in the year 2016. In his practice he examines the

monotonous round of everyday life and the contradictory role of the person within.

HAFNARBORG 3 TO 5 SECONDS – RAPID HANDMADE PRODUCTION 3 to 5 Seconds is like many other projects by Jenny Nordberg part of a larger and ongoing work about how we produce and consume today, how we’ve done historically and how we could do it in the future. In this particular project she examines how different properties from small scale hand making and big scale mass production can be combined. The main focus lies within how to merge the uniqueness often found in hand made objects and the speed of mass production. By going into production mode and acting

almost like a machine, Nordberg sets up a temporary assembly line to explore questions like: Is it possible to make one of a kind handmade items really fast? Is speed the contradiction to skills? Can lack of time lead to new methods?

THE CINEMA There’s a cosy little movie theatre on the Old Harbour waterfront in the Reykjavik Centre that’s simply called The Cinema. It offers a wide variety of documentaries, made by the renowned Icelandic filmmaker Valdimar Leifsson, on everything from volcanoes to the Northern Lights and glaciers. It has an impressive selection of scheduled shows and it’s also possible to book specially a number of others, including films in German.

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Just as nature has been categorized, you can see different categories in the different approaches of various artists. For example, the research targeted approach; the allegorical; the aesthetic; or even surreal approach. Interdisciplinary ways of thinking have opened up a novel field,.

THE CINEMA

EVENT CALENDAR Read more about these exhibitions at whatson.is/museums 54

NATIONAL GALLERY OF ICELAND

REYKJAVIK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY

PABLO PICASSO IN THE COLLECTION OF THE NATIONAL GALLERY

PORTRAITS BY HASSELBLAD AWARD WINNERS

Picasso’s widow, Jacqueline Roque Picasso, gave the portrait of herself to Mrs Vigdís Finnbogadóttir, who as a president of Iceland took the generosity as a gift to the nation. Following this unique decision of both women the bust was consigned to the NGI in 1988. It has been shown more often abroad than in Iceland and it is considered to be among the artist’s most unusual portraits.

This exhibition at the Reykjavík Museum of Photography features a selection of works by Hasselblad Award winners, from the Hasselblad Foundation collection, with a particular focus on portraiture. Seen from the perspective of seven photographers, with works from 1940 until 2015, the exhibition features seminal pieces by legendary photographers such as Irving Penn – and his portrayals of Salvador Dalí and Marcel Duchamp – or Richard Avedon, depicting the power elite of 1970s USA for Rolling Stone magazine, in the series The Family (1976)..

THE RHYTHM OF GEYSERS An interactive video installation, brings to the foreground the musical diversity of the geothermal site. The visitor's participation is needed for the evolution of the works on display. By participating, the user creates his/her personal experience of the visual and sound composition of the geysers. The experience of the one participating is similar to playing an instrument or rather conducting different musicians playing different instruments. The different geysers are the musical instruments of this work and the musical harmony is created by the different rhythm and pitches reached at different stages of an eruption.

UDSTILLING AF ISLANDSK KUNST Until September 11th. In 1927, Icelandic art was presented to the public in Copenhagen for the first time. Seven years earlier, in 1920, the Danish-Icelandic Society held the first joint exhibition of Icelandic art, Fem islandske malere (Five Icelandic Artists), showcasing 160 works by five artists in the Kleis Gallery. The present exhibition at the National Gallery of Iceland looks back at a portion of the works that were presented at these watershed events.

PABLO PICASSO

AN ISLAND IN ÖLFUS Until September 11th. An Island in Ölfus is the title of an exhibition by Valdimar Thorlacius. The title refers to a town in southern Iceland which lies in an active geothermal area. The town is also the photographer‘s home town, so it has a special meaning for him as a subject.

REYKJAVÍK MARITIME MUSEUM FOR COD'S SAKE A new exhibition at the Reykjavik Maritime Museum about the so called Cod Wars. The Cod Wars were a series of confrontations between Iceland and Britain over fishing rights in the North Atlantic during the years 19581976. Each of the disputes ended with Iceland's victory.

SEA WOMEN The exhibition is a collaborative project between Reykjavik city museum (of which the Maritime museum is a part) and Dr. Margaret E. Willson, an anthropologist with the University of Washington (Seattle, Washington State). Dr. Willson discovered through

MOOD

extensive historical and ethnographic research in Iceland that women have consistently worked at sea from the mid900s to the present day. In West Iceland, through the 1700s and 1800s, women comprised a full third of the fishing fleet. This appears to be different from any other group of female fishers about whom a study has been done. From the 1970s through the early 2000s.

FROM POVERTY TO ABUNDANCE The exhibition portrays the Icelandic fisheries at the turn of the 20th century, and realistically depicts the lives of Icelandic fishermen. During this time, tenant fishermen resided in modest coastal cottages during the fishing season. On display is Farsæll, an original four-person rowboat built around 1900 in the Westman Islands.

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THE MAKING OF A NATION - HERITAGE AND HISTORY IN ICELAND The National Museum of Iceland’s permanent exhibition, Making of a Nation - Heritage and History in Iceland, is intended to provide insight into the history of the Icelandic nation from the Settlement to the present day. The aim is to cast light on the Icelanders’ past by placing the cultural heritage preserved by the National Museum in a historical context, guided by the question: What makes a nation? The exhibition includes about 2,000 objects, dating from the Settlement Age to the present, as well as about 1,000 photographs from the 20th century. The exhibition is conceived as a journey through time: it begins with the ship in which medieval settlers crossed the ocean to their new home, it ends in a modern airport, the Icelanders’ gateway to the world.

MAKING OF A NATION

EVENT CALENDAR

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND

ÁSGRÍMUR JÓNSSON COLLECTION EN PLEIN AIR - ALONG THE SOUTH COAST EN PLEIN AIR

These travels are documented in numerous oil paintings and watercolours where the artist interprets the pure light with masterful skill. The exhibition includes numerous oil paintings and watercolours from 1909–1928.

NORDIC HOUSE SÆVAR KARL: FINE EXHIBITION Sævar Karl (b. 1947) has been involved with art all his life. In 1989, Sævar Karl founded the Gallery of Sævar Karl, located inside his fashion store. The

Gallery was a popular and a known art venue in Reykjavík. Sævar is a colourist and paints in an expressionist style, often on large surfaces. The paintings on the exhibition in the Nordic House are large abstract paintings, some were exhibit in Venice in May and June of 2015 in connection with the Venice Biennale, other paintings are from this year.

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Upon completion of his studies at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Copenhagen, Ásgrímur returned to Iceland as soon as possible, grateful to be free again. He was determined to reconnect with the land and put his new knowledge to work by painting Icelandic nature and thus expressing his love for nation and country – to capture the moment, the ever-shifting light, and paint outdoors en plein air in the style of the French and the painters of the Danish Golden Age. On his return home in 1909, Ásgrímur went to his native South Iceland, traveling east through the Skaftafell districts in 1910, 1911 and 1912.

EVENT CALENDAR Read more about these exhibitions at whatson.is/ec 58

THE CULTURE HOUSE POINTS OF VIEW The exhibition offers visitors a chance to delve into the collections of six different cultural institutions, the National Museum of Iceland, National Gallery of Iceland, Natural History Museum, National Archives of Iceland, National and University Library of Iceland and Árni Magnússon Institute for Icelandic Studies. Points of view offers an innovative guide to a nation’s cultural history exhibiting thousand-year-old treasures, e.g. manuscripts, along with the latest in Icelandic art.

settlement sagas look back to life in Iceland from the ninth century through to the period of Iceland’s conversion to Christianity (in 1000 AD). They tell of settlers from Norway and the British Isles and the

regions where they settled, detailing their family origins and noteworthy descendants and sometimes giving their reasons for leaving their homelands.

EINAR JÓNSSON MUSEUM A museum in the heart of Reykjavík that houses the work of Iceland's first sculptor Einar Jónsson. The museum contains close to 300 art works spanning a 60 year career: carvings from the artist's youth, sculpture, paintings and drawings. A beautiful tree-clad garden adorned with 26 bronze casts of the artist's works is located behind the museum. The task of the museum is to collect, preserve and display the work of Einar as well as to conduct research on his life and art.

EINAR JÓNSSON

SETTLEMENT SAGAS

THE SETTLEMENT EXHIBITION SETTLEMENT SAGAS The central feature of this new exhibition are the nation‘s greatest treasures, ancient manuscripts that are usually kept under lock at The Árni Magnússon Institute for Icelandic studies. This is a temporary exhibition and a rare opportunity to see these culturally valuable manuscripts that describe the Settlement of Reykjavik. Written in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, the

POINTS OF VIEW

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ART & CULTURE

ÁRBÆR OPEN AIR MUSEUM

THE SETTLEMENT EXHIBITION

REYKJAVIK MARITIME MUSEUM

Kistuhylur, Reykjavik 411-6304 | reykjavikcitymuseum.is Hours: Opens at 13:00 for guided tours only.

Aðalstræti 16, Reykjavik 411-6370 | reykjavikcitymuseum.is Hours: Daily 9-20

Grandagarður 8, Reykjavik 411-6340 | reykjavikcitymuseum.is Hours: Daily 12-17

REYKJAVIK MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY

THE EINAR JÓNSSON MUSEUM

Tryggvagata 15, Reykjavik 411-6390 | reykjavikcitymuseum.is Hours: Mon-Thu 12-19, Fri 12-18, Sat & Sun 13-17

Hallgrímstorg 3, Reykjavik 551-3797 | www.lej.is Hours: Tue-Sun 10-17

REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM This unique museum was founded in 1957 in order to give visitors a tangible sense of Reykjavík’s past. It comprises a village-like collection of over twenty “homes,” each creating a very interesting exhibition in itself.

VIÐEY ISLAND

REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM Unspoiled nature reigns on island of Viðey, which has a unique place in Icelandic history. Birdlife abounds on the island, while outstandi ng works of modern art also make their mark.

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Viðey Reykjavik 533-5055 reykjavikcitymuseum.is

REYKJAVIK CITY LIBRARY

FREE ENTRY Looking for a place to hang out, browse the internet, get access to Wi-Fi or meet the Reykjavik locals? Then Reykjavik City Library is the perfect place to visit. Have a seat and dip into the latest magazine or relax while checking out their great selection of books. Tryggvagata 15, Reykjavik 411-6100 | borgarbokasafn.is Hours: Mon-Thu 10-19, Fri 11-18, Sat & Sun 13-17

REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM Experience Viking-Age Reykjavik at the Settlement Exhibition. Multimedia techniques bring Reykjavik’s past to life, providing visitors with insights into how people lived in the Viking Age, and what the environment looked like to the settlers.

REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM/ FREE ENTRY The aim of the museum is to shape a unique vision and to be leading in its field. The museum preserves various collections from professional and amateur photographers.

HAFNARBORG

FREE ENTRY Hafnarborg has a collection of Icelandic art and regular exhibitions presenting leading Icelandic and international artists. Collection exhibitions are a regular part of the program. Around exhibitions are workshops and guided tours. Strandgata 34, Hafnarfjörður 585-5790 | www.hafnarborg.is Hours: Wed-Mon 12-17

REYKJAVÍK CITY MUSEUM It is impossible to truly get to know Iceland without getting to know its fishing history. The museum’s main exhibitions illustrate the development from rowing boats to m o d e r n t raw l e r s a n d t h e construction of Reykjavik harbour.

A museum with indoor and outdoor exhibitions dedicated to the work of Einar Jónsson, Iceland’s first modern sculptor (1874-1954). The museum was built in the early 1900’s when Einar Jónsson offered all of his works as a gift to the Icelandic nation.

THE NUMISMATIC MUSEUM

FREE ENTRY A selection from the numismatic collection is on display on the ground floor of the Central Bank’s main building in Kalkofnsvegur 1, Reykjavik. Kalkofnsvegur 1, Reykjavik 569-9600 www.sedlabanki.is Hours: Mon-Fri 13:30-15:30

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The National Gallery of Iceland has come a long way from its origins. To begin with, the collection consisted of donated artwork, mainly by Danish artists. Today the museum stands at Frikirkjuvegur in central Reykjavik, displaying both Icelandic and International art. Fríkirkjuvegur 7, Reykjavík 515-9600 | www.listasafn.is Hours: Tue-Sun: 10-17

THE LIVING ART MUSEUM

An active exhibition space that has organized many exciting exhibitions throughout the years. They put a n e m p h a s i s o n i n t ro d u c i n g young Icelandic artists, as well as showcasing work by better-known Icelandic and foreign modern and contemporary artists.

Offers a state-of-the-art exhibitions on the cultural history of Iceland. The permanent exhibition, Making of a Nation - Heritage and History of Iceland, gives a comprehensive picture of Iceland’s cultural history through the ages to the present day. Suðurgata 41, Reykjavik 530-2200 | nationalmuseum.is Hours: Tue-Sun 10-17

THE ICELANDIC PHALLOLOGICAL MUSEUM

Probably the most unique museum you’ll visit on your trip, the Icelandic Phallological Museum is a one of a kind. Here you’ll find a collection of more than two hundred penises and penile part belonging to almost all land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland. Laugavegur 116, Reykjavik 561 6663 | www.phallus.is Hours: Daily 10-18

HANNESARHOLT

VOLCANO HOUSE

Grundarstígur 10, Reykjavik 511-1904 | www.hannesarholt.is Hours: Daily 11-17

Tryggvagata 11, Reykjavik 555-1900 | www.volcanohouse.is Hours: Daily 10-21

Cultural center and historic home of Hannes Hafstein, Iceland’s first Minister of State, now houses the non-profit Hannesarholt, dedicated to retrieving cultural memory, and revitalizing cultural roots. Bordstofan Bistro open daily from 11am – 6pm. Short doc on Hannes Hafstein and early Reykjavik Guided historic city walks Tue and Thu at 1 pm by appointment.

Shows documentaries that give a good idea of real life in Iceland, where volcanoes and earthquakes are a constant threat. There’s also a geological stone exhibition, which gives a brief overview of Iceland’s geological history and volcanic system, and a boutique, with Icelandic designs, artwork, lava rocks, pumice, bottles of ash and Lava Jewellery.

SIGURJÓN ÓLAFSSON MUSEUM

A museum that Icelandic sculptor Sigurjón Ólafsson’s wife founded as a tribute to his life and work in 1984. She had his studio in Laugarnes converted to an exhibition space to house his collection of works, including sculptures, sketches, drawings and biographical material. Laugarnestangi 70 553-2906 | www.lso.is Hours: Sat-Sun 14-17

MUSEUM OF DESIGN AND APPLIED ART

Its objective is to collect, study and present Icelandic design and crafts from 1900 to the present day. This young museum, the only one of its kind in Iceland, holds regular exhibitions of Icelandic and international design during the year. Exhibitions from the museum‘s own collection are regularly held. Garðatorg 1, Garðabær 512-1525 | www.honnunarsafn.is Hours: Tue-Sun 12-17

AURORA REYKJAVIK

The Northern Lights Center, Aurora Reykjavik, allows you to experience the Northern Lights in a completely different way, both if you saw them, but as well if they escaped you while in Iceland. The center features information, education and of course stunning visuals of the elusive lights that’ll get your heart racing. Grandagarður 2, Reykjavik 780-4500 | aurorareykjavik.is Hours: Daily 9-21

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Völvufell 13-21, Reykjavik 551-4350 | www.nylo.is Hours: Tue-Fri 12-17

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND

ART & CULTURE

NATIONAL GALLERY OF ICELAND

ART & CULTURE

KJARVALSSTAÐIR

Mainly devoted to paintings and sculpture by well established Icelandic and international artists. Kjarvalsstaðir offers a permanent exhibition of key works by one of Iceland’s most beloved landscape painters, Jóhannes S. Kjarval, as well as changing exhibitions that explore various thematic and historical aspects of Icelandic art. Flókagata 24, Reykjavik 411-6420 | www.artmuseum.is Hours: Daily 10-17

GLJÚFRASTEINN LAXNESS MUSEUM

Halldór Laxness is arguably the most famous Icelandic writer of all time, and the only Icelander to have won a Nobel Prize, which he received for literature in 1955. Gljúfrasteinn was his home until his death, and today it is a museum dedicated to his life and work.

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Gljúfrasteinn, Mosfellsbær 586-8066 | www.gljufrasteinn.is Closed for repairs in September.

ÁSMUNDARSAFN

Opened in 1983, the collection is housed in a unique building designed and constructed mostly by the artist himself from 19421950. The original building served Sveinsson as studio and home; behind it he built a crescent-shaped structure as a work- and exhibition space. Sigtún, Reykjavik 411-6430 | www.artmuseum.is Hours: Daily 10-17.

THE CULTURE HOUSE

Artifacts and works of art from the varied collections of six institutions provide a reflection of Iceland’s visual art history and cultural heritage in the exhibition Points of View, a journey through the Icelandic visual world of past and present. There are seven points of view to be found in as many wings of the house, connecting what you’ll see, independent from the medium or time. Hverfisgata 15, Reykjavik 545-1400 | www.culturehouse.is Hours: Tue-Sun 10-17

GERÐARSAFN

SAGA MUSEUM

Hamraborg 4, Kópavogur 441-7600 | gerdarsafn.is Hours: Tue-Sun 11-17

Grandagardur 2, Reykjavik 511-1517 | sagamuseum.is Hours: Daily 10-18

Gerðarsafn is a progressive modern art museum in Kópavogur. It’s dedicated to sculptor Gerður Helgadóttir and it’s the only museum in Iceland dedicated to a woman. The museum collection consists of more than 1400 works by Gerður, as well as the works of the most celebrated Icelandic artists of the 20th and 21st century.

From the time of the earliest settlers, history is brought to life in a unique and exciting way. The Saga Museum intimately recreates key moments in Icelandic history, moments that have determined the fate of our people and which give a compelling view into how Icelanders have lived for more than a millenium.

HAFNARHÚS

The Reykjavik Art Museum took p o ss e ss i o n o f i t s p o r t i o n o f Hafnarhús (Harbour House) in 2000. Hafnarhús was built in 193239 for the offices and warehouses of Reykjavik Harbor and was at that time one of the largest buildings in the country. Tryggvagata 17, Reykjavik 411-6410 | www.artmuseum.is Hours: Daily 10-17, Thu 10-20

ÁSGRÍMUR JÓNSSON COLLECTION

One of the pioneers of Icelandic art and the first Icelander to take up painting professionally. Having died in 1958, he bequeathed all his works, as well as his studio home to the Icelandic nation. Bergstaðastræti 74, Reykjavík 515-9625 | www.listasafn.is Hours: Sun 14-17

WHALES OF ICELAND

The largest whale exhibition in Europe (and perhaps even the world), where guests can learn about the giants of the sea in a calm and modern environment. The permanent exhibition features whales like guests have never seen them before. It is truly a giant experience. Fiskislóð 23-25, Reykjavik 571-0077 | whalesoficeland.is Hours: Daily 10-17

Wool & Souvenirs

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Restaurant & Lodging

The Viking Village is a unique place and it is the only Viking theme Hotel and restaurant in Iceland. We have step by step been developing our facilities over the last 24 years and will hopefully continue to do so in the future. We offer Hotel accommodation and Viking houses. Good for families and groups.

The Fisherman´s village, our newest accommodation is Hlið in Álftanes only few minutes drive from the Viking Village. Like a country home by the seaside. Such an idyllic place to visit. The restaurant is open for groups in the evenings. Close to the president´s residence.

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Viking feasts - Souvenirs - Live entertainment most nights “You haven't been in Iceland if you haven't been to us“ Don’t miss it! Booking: www.vikingvillage.is | +354 565 1213

Welcome to Gló Restaurant AT LAUGAVEGUR Gló is Iceland’s most popular health food restaurant in Reykjavik. Gló offers different set menu everyday: Raw food, chicken, a vegetarian dish and soup. Tasty desserts, coffee, tea and delicious juices are offered as well.

Laugavegur 20b · Open every day 11–22 Tel 553 1111 · www.glo.is · #gloiceland

Austur is one of the hottest clubs in downtown Reykjavik, and has been since it first opened in 2009. Austur is located in Austurstraeti, one of the main bar- and shopping streets downtown, and even though the surrounding area is filled with clubs and bars, Austur seems to be the center of attention. Austurstræti 7, Reykjavik 568-1907

HÚRRA

Dark and raw, this large bar/club opens up its back room to make a concert venue, with live music or DJs most nights. They’ve got six Icelandic microbreweries on tap and happy hour runs till 21:00. One of the coolest and hipster friendly places in town and your best bet of catching the next big thing from Iceland.

KAFFIBARINN

Best known as Damon Albarn’s hangout place back in the days, this most famous bar in Iceland is a popular destination for the artsy and univer sity crowd. During the week it‘s more of a café, but on the weekend the volume rises and KB becomes one of the hottest bars in Reykjavik. Bergstaðastræti 1, Reykjavik 551-1588 www.kaffibarinn.is

AMERICAN BAR

Laugavegur 20b, Reykjavik 581-2200

Austurstræti 8, Reykjavik 571 9999

DEN DANSKE KRO

One of the coolest bars in Reykjavik these days is Kaldi Bar. In close cooperation with north-Icelandic micro-brewery of the same name, Kaldi offers you a selection of craftbrewed beers on tap. Great happy hour and great fun, Kaldi is a place not-to-be-missed!

B5 bar/bistro has become a very popular establishment with the locals of the capital. With its very contemporary and stylish interior, b5 is laid back during the day, while as night falls, the lights dim and the atmosphere changes accordingly. Bankastræti 5, Reykjavik 552-9600 www.b5.is

American Bar is named appropriately since it’s an American Bar in Reykjavík, of the kind you’re probably familiar with from other countries: there are dudes, chicks and random university students partying to the latest MTV tunes. They specialize in American culture and entertainment.

There is live music playing every night at Den Danske Kro and sometimes there are live football games, pub quizzes, beer bingo, darts and happy hours. Den Danske Kro is a casual place in the heart of Reykjavik where everyone is welcome. Ingólfsstræti 3, Reykjavik 552-0070 www.danski.is

BAR ANANAS

THE ENGLISH PUB

Klapparstígur 38, Reykjavik

Austurstræti 12, Reykjavik 578-0400 www.facebook.com/enskibarinn

Ten seconds from Laugavegur, you'll find Iceland’s one and only BeachBar/Tiki Bar in downtown Reykjavík. There, most things are made in the shape of a pineapple. Pillows, glasses, chandeliers, candlesticks and more. At weekends city's best DJs will make guests feel sunny while they enjoy some of the best cocktails in town. G

In the mood for a pint? English Pub offers over 35 brands of beer and Whiskey. Whatever your preference – you will find it here. This is also a great place if you would like to catch some football (soccer). Inside they have 3 big screens and 2 TV’s so that you can catch all the action as it happens.

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Naustin, Reykjavik www.hurra.is

KALDI BAR

NIGHTLIFE

AUSTUR

SHOPPING & STYLE Find more recommendations at whatson.is 70

ANNA MARÍA DESIGN

For over twenty years, jewelry designer Anna Maria has created her things of gold and silver, a design that is both pure and timeless. Exceptional attention to detail and craftsmanship create the elegant simplicity that shines through Anna Maria’s products. Skólavörðustígur 3, Reykjavik 551-0036 www.annamariadesign.is

LISTVINAHÚSIÐ

The oldest ceramic workshop in Iceland established 1927. Three generations of artistic potters. U n i q u e h a n d m a d e ce ra m i c s , Viking masks and various ceramic potteries decorated with lava, made by Gudmundur Einarsson. Located right next to Hallgrímskirkja and the statue of “Leif the Lucky”. Skólavörðustígur 43, Reykjavik 551-2850 www.listvinahusid.is

FJALLAKOFINN

At Fjallakofinn you can find top quality clothing and good equipment at a fair price. They offer good advise on all backpacking and outdoor related things and offer basic things like backpacks, sleeping bags and tents for rent. A licensed retailer of many big brands, you’ll find everything for your outdoor needs. Laugavegur 11, Reykjavik 510-9505 | www.fjallakofinn.is

ÁLAFOSS

One of Iceland’s major woollen industry shops, the Álafoss store. Situated in old factory premises that for decades were the leading manufacturers and exporters of Icelandic woollens, Álafoss is a company that strives towards offering the newest wares along with the traditional Icelandic wool sweaters. Laugavegur 8, Reykjavik 566-6303 | www.alafoss.is

LISTASELIÐ

IGLÓ&INDÍ

Skólavörðustígur 17b, Reykjavik 551-5675 | www.listaselid.is Hours: Mon-Fri 12-18, Sat 11-16

Skólavörðustígur 2, Reykjavik 445-2020 | www.igloandindi.com

Six energetic women design and create exclusive art, while also running and working in the gallery. The gallery offers gift vouchers, issued by the store or by the Centrum organization that can be redeemed within most shops on Laugarvegur and Skólavörðustígur in downtown Reykjavik.

Loved by parents and children alike and praised in the media for boldness and creativity, Ígló&Indí has offered both parents and children an ever growing collection of clothes with a fresh take on children’s fashion since 2008— representing the best childhood has to offer.

THE LITTLE CHRISTMAS SHOP

On Laugavegur, in the heart of Reykjavík, you’ll find the very unique Little Christmas Shop— which is dedicated to the spirit of Christmas, all year round. There you’ll find Icelandic decorations and everything needed for that festive spirit. Should not be missed as it is definitely one of the most special and fun stores to visit. Laugavegur 8, Reykjavik 552-2412

METAL DESIGN

The jewellery forms which Metal design is known for are inspired by the Icelandic flora. But what stands out the most is the shape “The Coast” that is inspired by the waves of the Icelandic coast.”The coast silver jewellery line is for ladies and gentlemen. Skólavörðustígur 2. Reykjavik 552-5445 www.MetalDesignReykjavik.is

CINTAMANI

Nowhere in the populated world does the weather change as fast, or as often as here. Thus Icelandic d e s i g n e r s h ave to m e e t t h e requirements of consumers who have to go out all year long in harsh conditions. That‘s where the label Cintamani comes to the rescue. Their goal is to keep us warm, dry and comfortable, whatever the weather may bring. Bankastræti 7, Reykjavik 533-3800 | www.cintamani.is

BY BOAT

ALSO TRY

NORTHERN LIGHTS BY BOAT

SEP OCT NOV DES JAN FEB MAR APR** 22:00 21:00* 21:00 21:00 21:00 21:00 21:00* 22:00

WHALE WATCHING FROM REYKJAVIK

PRICE: Adults 9.900 ISK Children (7-15) 50% OFF Children (0-6) FREE

*Departing at 21:00 from 16th Oct-14th Mar **Until 15 April

WHALE WATCHING SEP OCT NOV DES JAN FEB MAR APR 09:00 09:00 09:00 09:00 10:00* 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 14:00* 17:00** Price: Adults: 9.900 ISK Children (7-15) 50% OFF Children (0-6) FREE

*Express tour ** Until 15th September

WE GO THE EXTRA MILE! Book online www.specialtours.is / info@specialtours.is Call us +354 560 8800, or visit our ticket sale at the old harbour

SHOPPING & STYLE

GULLKÚNST HELGU

With its wide open spaces and beautiful treasures displayed in glass casting, Gullkúnst Helgu feels more like a gallery than a jewelry shop. Located on central Laugavegur, Reykjavik's busiest shopping street, this family owned shop is not to be missed. Laugavegur 13, Reykjavik 561-6660 www.gullkunst.is

STUDIO STAFN

At Studio Stafn you will be able to look at art, purchase art and have your art framed! Great works and historical paintings by Iceland’s most famous artists could become all yours if you pay them a visit. If you’re not looking to buy art, at least stop by and take a look.

Find more recommendations at whatson.is

Ingólfsstræti 6, Reykjavik 552-4700 www.studiostafn.is

THE HANDKNITTING ASSOCIATION OF ICELAND

Renowned for its excellent products and quality. Offering the widest selection of traditional hand knitted Icelandic sweaters, the range of products also includes special designs and a variety of woolen products from leading Icelandic manufactures. Skólavörðustígur 19, Reykjavik 552-1890 | www.handknit.is

MICHELSEN

KRAUM

Laugavegur 15, Reykjavik 511-1900 | www.michelsen.is

Bankastræti 7, Reykjavik 517-7797 www.kraum.is

HILDUR HAFSTEIN

GEYSIR

Inside their spacious shop in downtown Reykjavik, Michelsen Watchmakers offer you to browse one of Iceland’s best selection of watches. Along with their own design they also have a wide selection of well-known brands including Rolex, Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Diesel, Movado, Swiss Military and more.

A wonderful little workshop, where Hildur Hafstein creates her handmade Icelandic jewelry line, KORA. Inspired by different elements, such as Buddhism and the flower power, a visit to Hildur Hafstein will be a pleasant experience. Although the store is technically on Laugavegur, you walk in from Klapparstígur! Laugavegur 20b, Reykjavik 771-1177 www.HildurHafstein.is

EPAL

Their main goal has been to increase Icelanders interest and respect for fine design by introducing and providing top quality design products from all over the world, particularly Scandinavia. Epal has always been very supportive of Icelandic designers and done what they can to help them promote their design around the world. Laugavegur 70.Skeifan 6, & Harpa Reykjavik, Keflavík Airport 568-7740 | www.epal.is

Natural light floods the wooden floors and the fresh white walls of this stunning design hub and retail outlet, which already attracts some of Iceland's top talents. More than 70 designers are contributing to a huge selection of products that include children’s puzzles, fish skin lamps and exquisite jewellery.

Rustic, vintage interior, intertwined with the latest fashion in outdoor and woolen clothing. Add some puffin, reindeers and other iconic animals and you‘ve got one of the coolest shops in town. This is one place you‘ll have to visit, if only for the experience. Skólavörðustíg 16, Reykjavík 519-6000 www.geysir.com

KRINGLAN

Kringlan Shopping Centre is conveniently located close to downtown Reykjavik. Standing at 50.000 sq.m. and equipped with 150 shops and services, including a multiplex cinema, a seven-outlet food court and three themed restaurants, it has something to suit every need. Kringlan 4-12, Reykjavik 517-9000 | www.kringlan.is

SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGUR 14 - 101 REYKJAVÍK - TEL: +354 571 1100

Gourmet Experience

- Steaks and Style at Argentina Steakhouse Barónsstíg 11 - 101 Reykjavík Tel: 551 9555 argentina.is

FOOD & DRINK

FORRÉTTABARINN

Tasty tapas with an Icelandic twist. With a new spin on traditional Icelandic cuisine and an extensive selection of local beer, Forréttabarinn – “The Starters Bar” – is worth seeking out when you need a bite to eat or a place to start your night out in Reykjavík. Whatever you choose from the refreshingly creative menu, you’re in for a treat!

Find more recommendations at whatson.is

Is a centrally located and affordable restaurant that boasts an extensive international menu with an emphasis on Tex-Mex, Italian, Indian and many light meal options. One thing you can be sure of, when you visit Vegamót is that the place will be crowded. It's usually filled with locals for lunch, dinner and during evenings.

BRYGGJAN Bryggjan is not just a restaurant where you can get fresh Icelandic seafood overlooking the old harbour, it also doubles as a brewery. For beer enthusiasts, Bryggjan also offers an evening of beer school, where you can learn all about the beer and how it’s made, while tasting it with the appropriate courses.

Nýlendugata 14, Reykjavík 517-1800 | www.forrettabarinn.is

Vegamótastígur 4, Reykjavik 511-3040 | www.vegamot.is

Grandagarður 8, Reykjavík 456-4040 | bryggjanbrugghus.is

AUSTURLANDAHRAÐLESTIN

ARGENTÍNA STEAKHOUSE

HAMBORGARABÚLLAN – BURGER JOINT

Barónsstígur 11a, Reykjavik 551-9555 | www.argentina.is

Geirsgata 1, Reykjavik 511-1888 www.bullan.is

UNO RESTAURANT

ICELANDIC FISH & CHIPS

An excellent Indian restaurant, focusing on quality take-away, with the option of eating in. This means that while it‘s technically “fast food”, it’s definitely of restaurant q u a l i t y. T h e m e n u i n c l u d e s everything you could expect from an Indian restaurant, with the Chicken Tandoori being especially recommended.

VEGAMÓT BISTRO

Lækjargata 8, Reykjavik 578-3838 | www.hradlestin.is

SNAPS

A new restaurant in Iceland situated at Odinstorg. Snaps is a classic french bistro using local Icelandic ingredients. The location could not be better. Snaps is literally a few steps away from downtown Reykjavik, close to the National Theatre, The National Gallery of Iceland and the two main shopping streets of Reykjavik” Óðinstorg, Reykjavik 511-6677 | www.snaps.is

They offer some of the the finest cuisine there is to find in the whole city. Grilling meat and fish of all kinds Argentinian style using wooden coal is what they do better than any other restaurant and frankly, you won‘t believe your own tastebuds

Uno is a relatively new, modern Italian restaurant in downtown Reykjavik, where original Italian culinary customs and Icelandic ingredients come together to form a delightful treat. Whether you're in the mood for a light lunch or a dinner feast, Uno is the place to be! Hafnarstræti 1-3, Reykjavik 561-1313 | www.uno.is

Since 2004, the Joint has kept it simple, fun and delicious. Sitting right by the Old Harbour, in a small, iconic house, the atmosphere of the Burger Joint is hard to find elsewhere. You can feel the joy of the staff, as they serve you juicy burgers, exploding with great taste.

This is not your run of the mill fish and chip shop! Not only does the restaurant use the freshest fish and ingredients, they serve their fish with delicious skyr-based sauces,.This fast-food upgrade is much more nutritious than you‘d think! After eating, we recommend visiting the Volcano House, it‘s in the same building! Tryggvagata 11, Reykjavik 511 11 18 | ww.fishandchips.is

SPENDING QUALITY TIME WITH THE LOCALS: PRICELESS Enjoy your stay in Iceland, where you are as welcome as your MasterCardÂ®

SEAFOOD

BUFFET Every day from 17:30

Salted Cod With almond and chive butter, fig and potatoes

3.855

IKR

+3 5 4 5 1 7 4 3 0 0 geysirbistro.is

A new restaurant opposite the old harbour that offers traditional steak dishes along with some exciting and fairly unorthodox choices. The pride and joy of The Steakhouse is the Mibrasa charcoal oven, a rare oven that is designed to cook the perfect steak by mixing modern technology with ancient tradition. Tryggvagata 4-6, Reykjavik 561-1111 | www.steik.is

KOL

Kol describes itself as “casual fine dining with a big bar”. The name comes from the unique charcoal oven which lends a very special, rustic flavour to the dishes. The restaurant offers a wide variety of sophisticated cocktails, mixed with handmade syrups and juices. Skólavörðustígur 40, Reykjavik 517-7474

What’s the only thing that’s better than a feast of Icelandic langoustine? A feast of Icelandic langoustine in a charming restaurant by the seaside in a tiny, picturesque fishing village. Their langoustine soup alone is well worth the 45-minute drive from the city. Fjöruborðið Eyrarbraut 3 A Stokkseyri 483-1550 | www.fjorubordid.is

The spices used to season the food at Austur-Indiafjelagid are imported directly from India and blended on the spot by their team of highly experienced chefs. The Tandoori dishes on the menu must be mentioned, as the chefs have truly mastered the art of Tandoori grilling. Hverfisgata 56, Reykjavik 552-1630 | www.austurindia.is

THE ICELANDIC BAR

The Icelandic Bar is very aptly named: it is an Icelandic bar. But more than that, it is a bar that aims to preserve the essence of being Icelandic by combining the historical and cultural heritage of this ancient land with the very hip and cutting edge culture of modern times. Ingólfsstræti 1a, Reykjavík 517-6767 | www.islenskibarinn.is

HLÖLLI Hlölli has been serving up delicious subs, with his secret-ingredient sauce, for more than 30 years. Whether you’re in the mood for a lunch on your way about town or a late night snack after a night of dancing in the Reykjavík clubs, Hlöllabátar is the way to go. The bread is baked fresh every day and topped with fresh Icelandic ingredients. Ingólfstorgi, Reykjavik 511-3500 | www.hlollabatar.is

PYLSUHÚSIÐ

Hot dogs are the perfect fast food. They’re quick, portable and they taste great!. The classic Icelandic hot dog with all the fixings, raw and fried onions, ketchup, remoulade and mustard is of course available here, but they also offer more adventurous “dogs”, like chilli dogs and a French hot dog. If you’re not in the mood for a hot dog, they also serve ice cream! Ingólfstorgi, Reykjavik 842-2800

KAFFITÁR

KRÚSKA

Bankastræti 8, Reykjavik 420-2700 www.kaffitar.is/en

Suðurlandsbraut 12, Reykjavik 557-5880 | www.kruska.is

A chain of cafés and espresso bars with over 30 years of experience in serving and roasting high-quality coffee. They operate cafés in 8 locations in Iceland, promising a highly knowledgeable staff and a great cup of coffee procured in a responsible and fair way.

Krúska serves delicious, nutritious meals, both for people on the go and those who want to linger over their vegan, fish, vegetarian or chicken dishes. Everything is made right in their own kitchen from first class ingredients with no additives or preservatives. Krúska also serves coffee and cakes.

Find more recommendations at whatson.is

FJÖRUBORÐIÐ

AUSTURINDÍAFJELAGIÐ

FOOD & DRINK

THE STEAK HOUSE

FOOD & DRINK

KITCHEN AND WINE

Situated inside the stylish 101 hotel downtown, Kitchen and Wine is a luxurious bistro with a relaxed atmosphere. The cuisine is seasonal and focuses on simplicity and finesse. The cocktails are also excellent! Hverfisgata 10, Reykjavik 580-0103 www.kitchenandwine.is

GRILLHÚSIÐ

73 RESTAURANT

Tryggvagata 20, Reykjavik 527-5000 www.grillhusid.is

Laugavegur 73, Reykjavik 555 7373 www.73.is

FISH AND CHIPS VAGNINN

FISH COMPANY

KOLABRAUTIN

Between the Reykjavík Maritime Museum and Reykjavík Marina Hotel 840-4100 | fishandchipsvagninn.is

Vesturgata 2a, Reykjavik 552-5300 | www.fiskfelagid.is

Find more recommendations at whatson.is

Geirsgata 3, Reykjavik 567-2700 www.koparrestaurant.is ta

Not only does Smurstöðin have some of Reykjavík’s best new Nordic smørrebrød, it also has the added bonus of being inside the stunning Harpa concert hall. The delicious, beautifully decorated open-faced sandwiches are best washed down with an icy glass of the house-made schnapps. Harpa Austurbakki 2, Reykjavik 519-9750 | www.smurstodin.is

Kopar is a restaurant by the old harbour in Reykjavik which has an emphasis on adventure and experience in a brasserie setting. Their menu is composed of various locally sourced ingredients from sea and land, and aims to give you a taste of Iceland in a single evening.

rsga

A restaurant in prime location in Reykjavík‘s old harbour. The menu is inspired by South-American and southern-European cuisine and the restaurant designed to deliver fresh and uplifting dining experience, unique to the harbour area. MAR is an interesting choice for individuals and groups alike.

SMURSTÖÐIN

Geirsgata 9, Reykjavik 519-5050 | www.marrestaurant.is

KOPAR

Gei

MAR - SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

The fish and chips stand down by the old harbour combines the best of British and Icelandic culture, with fresh, quality Icelandic fish served in the traditional British way. You can even get mushy peas and malt vinegar with it! Festing on piping hot fish and chips on a sunny day while looking over the old harbour is an unbeatable Reykjavík experience.

A fun restaurant, with the look and feel of an American Diner. Reasonably priced, offering delicious food and a very good service, you‘ll definitely get great value for your money here. They put a special emphasis on using only high quality ingredients, making for a terrific meal.

Quality, fusion and fun are the Fish Company’s main characteristics. The interior is stylish and the quirky tableware fits in wonderfully. The menu is a world of adventures from starters to deserts. It’s designed to take you on a seafood journey and not only a journey of the Icelandic culinary waters but a trip around the world.

Offering a great selection of Icelandic brews and one of the most Epic Burgers this country has ever seen (300gr!), 73, a family-owned and operated restaurant is the place to go for those seeking great food at good prices. Take note that the outdoor seating area is a special treat!

Harpa is not only home to the Icelandic Opera and the Orchestra, it is also the location of one of Reykjavik‘s newest fine restaurants. The kitchen is in the middle of the room, where the fiery furnace gives the dinner guests a warm welcome. An ideal choice for people who appreciate fine cuisine combined with unique architecture and elegant atmosphere. Harpa, Reykjavik 519-9700 | www.kolabrautin.is

Choose Vodafone Iceland With Vodafone , you gain access to an extensive 4G network in Iceland with excellent 3G/4G roaming connectivity, no matter whether you’re on sea or land. Share your memories by using Vodafone’s prepaid mobile starter kit with voice and data. Vodafone Power to you

Buy your prepaid SIM card at Keflavík Airport, What’s On at Laugavegur 5 and Tryggvagata 11, Macland, Vodafone stores, N1 fuel stations all around Iceland, and at our network of resellers.

NICE

GREAT FOODGOOD DRINKS ATMO HAPPY HOUR EVERY DAY 17-19

KITCHEN IS OPEN Weekends 11.30–24 Other days 11.30–23

UNO at Ingólfstorg | Tel. 561 1313 | www.uno.is

Enjoy the freedom of riding ÍSHESTAR offers horseback riding tours through the spectacular Icelandic landscape. Whether you join our tours into the wilderness of the remote highlands, through the lush countryside or, all year round, for a short ride from our Riding Centre near Reykjavik, riding with Íshestar is a great experience. For further information check out our website www.ishestar.is, call +354 555 7000 or be our friend on Facebook.

For over 30 years Íshestar has given people an opportunity to ride the Icelandic horse, the most versatile gait horse in the world. Horses are our partners and our passion.

Got a question about Iceland? Wondering if it’s safe? (It is). Who the president is? (Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson). Maybe you’re wondering about where to find some original Icelandic Igloos? (Just stop. Don’t.). We have the answers to these questions and plenty more at our website: www.whatson.is. If you can’t find your answer there, just visit us on Laugavegur 4 in Reykjavík, or drop us an e-mail at whatson@whatson.is. MUST KNOW PHONE NUMBERS

IMPORTANT STATISTICS

112 – The only number you need to have in your arsenal. If you get hurt, robbed, set on fire or accidentally set something on fire yourself, this is the number you call. Memorize it. Luckily, it isn’t complicated.

330.000 The population of the country. Yes, we know, it’s not a lot.

5885522 – Thanks to a catchy jingle this company had in the early nineties, every Icelander knows this number. There are other taxi companies, but ask any Icelander for a number for a taxi, this is probably what you get.

0 Number of people living in Igloos in Iceland. 99.5 Percentage of Icelanders who speak English. Although we of course encourage you to check out the beautiful Icelandic language, if only for the always hilarious Eyjafjallajökull joke, you’ll be perfectly safe conversing with locals in a more international language.

11 The street number of the Tryggvagata location of the Volcano House, which also has a What‘s On information desk. 5 Number of post offices in the Reykjavík area. Also the street number of our Laugavegur office! Stop by in case you have more questions, or just want to chat! 230 Number of volts Icelandic electricity uses. Converters are needed for people from the UK and the USA, at least for those who like their phones charged and their hair dry and/ or curled.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS: NUMBERS YOU SHOULD KNOW!

1818 – If you forget the emergency number, want to call a different taxi company or you met some nice Icelanders last night and want to call them up, this is the only number you need, the Icelandic phonebook. +354 – The country code to Iceland. Add this to the seven digit phone numbers in Iceland and you can telephone to your heart’s desire, so long as you’re calling people in Iceland.

CHECK OUT MORE ANSWERS TO FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ONLINE AT WHATSON.IS/FAQ

Make a toast with Iceland’s no. 1 beer Pour a glass of the number one beer in the country, raise your glass to a friend and say “scowl fyrewr thyer!” You should fit right in. Skál fyrir þér!

Enjoy responsibly

Álafoss Main Store Álafossvegi 23 270 Mosfellsbær Opening hours: Monday to Friday 9.00 - 18.00 Saturday 9.00 - 16.00

Álafoss - Sweaters & souvenirs Laugavegi 8 Reykjavík City centre Opening hours: All days 10.00 - 21.00

Special opening for groups after closing: tel: 354 5666303

– Visit our stores: Skólavörðustígur & Kringlan, Reykjavík. Hafnarstræti, Akureyri. Geysir, Haukadalur. geysir.com –